Bally Home Models
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1 Introduction
Riding on the overwhelming wave of popularity of pinball machines in the mid-70's, Bally opted to manufacture less expensive, non-coin operated pinball machines for the home market. All of the machines created were essentially based on the same, simple playfield layout. Compare the home model layouts with the layout of Hokus Pokus built in 1975. The differences between Hokus Pokus and the home models are:
- The lack of a center spinning target
- The lack of a ball return gate
- No right ball return lane on two of the home models, Evel Knievel and Galaxy Ranger, although, these two games had a 3rd flipper added.
Series 1 machines are designed around the Mostek/Fairchild 3850 CPU chip on game board # 0606-00905. The 0606-00906 power supply for Series 1 was very poorly and cheaply designed. It had virtually no fuses and frequently went over-voltage and destroyed the CPU chip on the game board. Connectors frequently burned up.
Series 2 machines are designed around the Mostek 3870 CPU chip on game board # 0614-00913. The 0614-00912 power supply for Series 2 machines was vastly improved in that it had circuit breakers for some voltages and the circuitry was simplified. However, it still was not a very good power supply. The AC power input connector on the power supply board would burn up.
2 Games
2.1 Series 1
- 606-1000 Fireball
- 614-1000 Evel Knievel
- 614-3000 Fireball (this game is sometimes referred to as Fireball II, not to be confused with the coin operated model with the same name)
2.2 Series 2
- 614-2000 Captain Fantastic
- 614-4000 Galaxy Ranger
- 614-5000 Fireball (this game is sometimes referred to as Fireball III)
Score and instruction cards for Captain Fantastic home model
Fireball Home Model Pinball Owners Manual for model A614-03000
3 Technical Info
The cabinet uses standard Bally pinball legs 28-1/2 inches long. The normal height of the machine at the lockdown bar is 34 inches from the floor.
Coil cross reference:
Midway # A614-00014 (red wrapper) 4.3 ohms resistance is the same as Bally # AP-24-725. These are typically used as thumper bumper coils.
Midway # A614-00016 (blue wrapper) 1.4 ohms resistance of the main winding, 16.5 ohms resistance of the hold winding is the same as Bally # AF-23-300/28-1000. These are typically used as flipper coils.
Midway # A614-00017 (white wrapper) 3.8 ohms resistance is the same as Bally # AP-23-750. These are typically used as slingshot kicker coils.
Midway # A614-00047 (yellow wrapper) is the same as Bally # AP-23-575. These are typically used as the outhole (ball return) kicker coil.
Marco Specialties stocks brand new replacement coils for Bally home models.
Bally Home Pinball Service Manual
Schematics can be found in the game manual.
The self test switch is located on the game board right next to the 50k/100k replay score selection switch. Both are slide switches and can be easily accessed while the board is mounted in the backbox.
The Series 2 board's C connector goes to and from the cabinet and is 23 pins. DC power to operate the board logic, switched illumination, and solenoids go through this connector. The Tilt Switch, Start Switch, Speaker, Playfield Solenoids, and Backbox general illumination are also routed through this connector. The pinout of this connector is as follows:
1: +18VDC
2: 18 volt return
3: VLED display return and common ground
4: Speaker +
5: Common ground (Blue-Red)
6: +V for LED display
7: 6 VAC for GI lamps on playfield
8: 6 VAC for GI lamps in backbox
9: 6 VAC for GI lamps in backbox
10: 6 VAC for GI lamps on playfield
11: Key
12: +5 VDC (Brown-White)
13: SW1 strobe common to tilt switch and start switch
14: Tilt Switch
15: Start Switch
16: Solenoid 5 (Left Thumper Bumper)
17: Solenoid 4 (Right Slingshot)
18: Solenoid 7 (not used)
19: +22 VDC (approximate) to flipper coils
20: Solenoid 6 (Right Thumper Bumper)
21: Solenoid 2 (Outhole Kicker)
22: Solenoid 1 (not used)
23: Solenoid 3 (Left Slingshot)
The Series 2 board's D connector goes to the playfield and is 24 pins. This is for the lamp matrix and switch matrix.
A Series 2 game board has these numbers silkscreened on it.
Here is a drawing of the parts layout on Series 2 game boards.
4 Problems and Solutions
4.1 Power Problems
Series 2 power transformer box assembly uses Littlefuse twist tab mount circuit breakers instead of fuses. The red shaft of the circuit breakers stick out the rear of the cabinet in a slot. There are three 2.5 amp hold, 4.0 amp trip breakers and two 3.9 amp hold, 6.0 amp trip breakers mounted to this transformer box.
The gray wire from a 2.5 amp breaker feeds the controlled (switched) illumination circuit. The black wire from a 2.5 amp breaker feeds the left thumper bumper, left slingshot, and left flipper coils. The yellow wire from a 2.5 amp breaker feeds the right thumper bumper, right slingshot, outhole (ball return), and right flipper coils. The brown wire from a 3.9 amp breaker feeds the 6 volt playfield general illumination circuit. The blue wire from a 3.9 amp breaker feeds backbox general illumination and gameboard logic supply.
There are two windings of the power transformer that are NOT fused: the 120 volt primary (even though the schematics show the presence of a fuse), and the 18 volt (red wires) secondary. The power transformer used in the Series 2 power box is Midway # MT-60A.
Power transformer and circuit breakers are inside the black metal box. You must raise the playfield to access the transformer box and the power supply board.
Notice the primary of the transformer is NOT fused! Supposedly the transformer has an internal fuse. However, it would be a good idea to install a fuse in the primary circuit. The brown power input connector is an old television set "cheater cord" connector, also known as an interlock cord connector.
Series 2 Power Supply board # 0614-00912. The AC power from the transformer goes to the connector on the left side of the board. The DC output to the gameboard and playfield coils is through the right side connector. The 18 VAC (red wires) secondary is NOT fused. If anything shorts in this section of the power supply, pins 7 and 9 of the ac input connector will burn up or melt from the overload.
If any controlled devices are not functioning, first check the integrity of the header pin joints on the power supply board. The power supply is a single-sided board, therefore the header connections are prone to cracked solder joints. Remove the solder from all of the header pins, and reflow new solder onto them.
Closeup view of the AC input connector which usually burns up showing wire colors and sequence.
AC input connector A pin numbers. Pins 1 & 3 are the 5.25 VAC for backbox GI and 6VDC unreg to the score displays. Pins 7 & 9 are the 18 VAC performing three functions: +22 VDC to the coils, +18 VDC for feature lamps, and +5 VDC for the logic. Pins 2 & 4 are the 5.25 VAC to the playfield general illumination. Pin 6 is the circuit breaker for 18v return (logic board). Pin 8 is the circuit breaker for 22v return (left side coils). Pin 10 is the circuit breaker for 22v return (right side coils). Pin 11 is the logic and solenoid common ground.
DC output connector B pin numbers. Pins 6 and 7 feed 5.5 volts AC to the playfield general illumination.
4.1.1 Rebuilt Power Supplies
Series I machines include Fireball (606-1000 and 614-3000) and Evel Knievel (614-1000). Connectors are all at one end of the board.
On the Series I power supplies it is best to remove the Zener diode, resistor, and 3055 transistor and replace them with a single LM7818 1A regulator. Although heat sink is not needed for the LM7818, (it can be free standing) if the tracks going to the old 3055 transistor are pulled up, and moved over slightly, and a ground added, the LM7818 can be mounted to the heatsink in its place to maintain a stock look, but benefits from enhanced reliability of the additional cooling.
Series II machines include Captain Fantastic (614-2000), Galaxy Rangers (614-4000), and Fireball (614-5000). Connectors are at each end of the board.
I use snap-in (radial mount) electrolytic capacitors for the big filters on both of these boards because the axial version of these sizes are expensive, and hard to find. The 20,000uF capacitor was replaced with one at 22,000uF, again, because I could not find any rated at 20,000.
4.2 MPU boot issues
4.2.1 Relocating the battery from the MPU board
The Bally home model pinball machines did not utilize any on-board batteries for data storage, and thus there is no need for any battery relocation methods or repair of damage due to battery leakage.
4.2.2 Connecting a logic probe to the MPU
4.2.3 Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing
4.2.4 Modern Replacement MPU Board
There was plans for a modern retrofit MPU board being developed for the Bally Home Model pinball machines to retrofit the original Bally Brain MPU board. It was designed by Tony Gonzales and called the "Pinball Mind" board. Details about it where posted around the internet around various pinball and arcade related message boards. It would have modern features such as deeper rules, much more sounds, music, attract mode, adjustable features, and advanced diagnostics. There were rumours that the developer had gone as far as having a group of sample boards made up for testing. Rumor also has it, that Tony shortly after having this initial batch of boards made, passed away. It was also rumored the designs and idea for the boards were sent to Marco Specialties for further development and sale. As of the end of 2023, Marco Specialties has not offered a retrofit board for the Bally home models for sale.
4.3 Game resets
Fairchild 3850 CPU chip datasheet (used in the Series 1 game boards):
http://datasheets.chipdb.org/Fairchild/F8/fairchild-3850.pdf
On the series 2 gameboards, the cpu chip (Mostek 3870) is installed in those troublesome orange colored sockets. Replace the socket with a good quality 40 pin IC socket. The clock crystal next to it is a 3.579 mHz television color burst crystal.
Mostek 3870 technical information:
John Robertson at flippers.com now has a replacement cpu chips available to repair the Series 1 and 2 boards where the original cpu chip has failed.
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/replacement-series-1-cpu-ic-for-bally-home-pinballs-ballyhome-cpu1
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/replacement-series-2-cpu-ic-for-bally-home-pinballs-ballyhome-cpu2
4.4 Solenoid problems
If more than 1 solenoid is not functioning, suspect that the appropriate circuit breaker has tripped. Keep in mind that all of the left solenoids on Series II games use one circuit breaker, while all of the right solenoids and the outhole use a second circuit breaker.
All solenoids are "pre-driven" by integrated circuit Q203 (DM7445). Solenoid driver transistors are type SE9400 or TIP145 or TIP107 or 2N6040 or 2N6042 which cross reference to NTE 264.
Transistor S4 controls the right slingshot and is driven from IC Q203 pin 5.
Transistor S5 controls the left thumper bumper and is driven from IC Q203 pin 6.
Transistor S7 is not used on this machine and it as well as two resistors next to it are not installed. The two resistors not installed are R263 (1k, 1/4 watt) and R264 (1.8k, 1/4 watt). This solenoid would be driven by IC Q203 pin 9.
Transistor S6 controls the right thumper bumper and is driven from IC Q203 pin 7.
Transistor S1 is not used on this machine and it as well as two resistors next to it are not installed. The two resistors not installed are R232 (1k, 1/4 watt) and R233 (1.8k, 1/4 watt). This solenoid would be driven from IC Q203 pin 2.
Transistor S2 controls the outhole (ball return) kicker and is driven from IC Q203 pin 3.
Transistor S3 controls the left slingshot and is driven from IC Q203 pin 4.
Above pertains to Series 2 boards such as used in Captain Fantastic and Galaxy Ranger.
Below applies to Series 1 boards such as used in Fireball and Evel Knievel.
Transistor C1 (SD6, connector C pin 13) controls the right thumper and is driven from IC Q281 pin 7.
Transistor C2 (SD5, connector C pin 14) controls the left thumper and is driven from IC Q281 pin 6.
Transistor C3 (SD4, connector C pin 15) controls the right slingshot and is driven from IC Q281 pin 5.
Transistor C4 (SD3, connector C pin 17) controls the left slingshot and is driven from IC Q281 pin 4.
Transistor C5 (SD2, connector C pin 16) controls the outhole ball ejector and is driven from IC Q281 pin 3.
4.5 Lamp problems
The home model pinball machines use wedge base lamps (except for the pop bumper lamps) throughout the machine. Originally equipped with number 147 miniature lamps, you can substitute the more common number 555 pinball lamps or even number 159 or 259 lamps. Bally installed number 455 bayonet based blinker bulbs in the pop bumpers. The power supply provides 5.5 volts Dc to the switched illumination circuit and 5.5 volts AC to the general illumination circuits.
4.6 Switch problems
The playfield switches are all microswitches attached to two large printed circuit boards screwed to the bottom of the playfield. They are kind of oddball microswitches, but it should not be too hard to fabricate replacement switches if you had to.
4.7 Display problems
Score display assembly on a Series 2 game board. Check the soldering on the display assembly pins for cold solder joints.
Two IC's drive the score display on the Series 2 board. IC Q204 (type ULN2003A) and IC Q201 (type ULN2074B). Q201 also handles sounds.
4.8 Sound problems
Volume control as shown from solder side of Series 2 game board. This is what you see when you take off the back panel of the machine.
Volume control (25 k pot) as shown from parts side of Series 2 game board.
Series 2 sound circuitry consists of preamplifier IC Q202 which is a type LM3900 (crosses to an NTE992) and output IC Q201 which is a type ULN2074B. The output to the speaker comes from IC Q201 pin 10.
Series 1 sound circuitry consists of sound source IC Q285 (PSU # 1, 3851), transistor array Q270 (type FPQ3724), pre-amp IC Q262 (type UA3401 or type LM3900), and output transistor Q250 (type MPS6531, crosses to NTE123AP).
4.9 Flipper Problems
The home models did not have a flipper relay to turn off the flippers when the game was over or if you tilted it. Flippers were on all the time the machine was turned on.
Bally home model part number conversions to the more common Bally commercial part numbers.
0606-00030-0000 Coil Stop Bracket use # A-613-67
0017-00009-0343 Front Coil Bracket use # P-108-53
0010-00246-0000 Return Spring use # SP-200-185
0606-00029-0000 Plunger & Link Assembly use # A-3714-1
0017-00104-0073 Spring (Wave) Washer use # P-1158-6
0017-00009-0330 White Nylon Bushing use # C-649-53
0017-00009-0360 Mounting Bracket Assembly use # P-6264-134
0606-00017-0000 End Of Stroke Switch Assembly use # ASW-A20-23
0606-00038-0000 Left Lever Arm Assembly use # A-3711-2
0606-00037-0000 Right Lever Arm Assembly use # A-3711-3
0017-00101-0338 Set Screw use # M-1369
0017-00009-0342 Flipper Stop Bracket use # P-6665-444
0017-00104-0074 Nylon Washer use # P-801-590
This is a picture of a complete flipper unit on a Captain Fantastic home model pinball machine. Part numbers for the complete flipper unit assembly are ASE-1587-101 (left) and ASE-1587-102 (right). This is exactly the same flipper assembly as used on Mata Hari, Power Play, etc except for the coil.
Diode on AF-23-300/28-1000 flipper coil. Note that a Gottlieb® A5141 is a good working substitute.
Flipper Bat Assembly parts:
0017-00042-0142 White Flipper Bat Housing use # C-611-5 White
0017-00009-0357 Flipper Rubber, Red, 1-1/2" diameter by 1/2" tall
0606-00039-0000 Shoe & Shaft Assembly use # A-2747-11
A614-00032-0000 Flipper Bat, Shaft, & Shoe assembly use # ASE-2214-24
Flipper Button Assembly parts:
0017-00042-0144 Flipper Button use # C-905
0017-00042-0143 Flipper Button Housing use # C-904
0017-00009-0366 Flipper Button Mounting Plate use # P-1566
0606-00016-0000 Flipper Button Cabinet Switch Assembly use # ASW-A10-41
4.10 Pop bumper problems
Pop Bumper part number conversions. Original Bally home model part numbers to the more common commercial Bally part numbers.
0017-00042-0122 Pop Bumper Body use # C-114-3
0017-00042-0121 White Pop Bumper Skirt use # C-790-1
0017-00042-0123 Base use # C-115-1
0010-00236-0000 Base Spring use # SP-200-177
0606-00040-0000 Rod & Ring Assembly use # A-1873
0017-00009-0339 Fibre Yoke use # P-3656
0017-00009-0338 Steel Yoke use # P-3656-5
0606-00728-0000 Plunger use # S-496-118
0606-00033-0000 Mounting Bracket Assembly use # A-613-1
Pop bumper assembly under the playfield of a home model Captain Fantastic. Coil is AP-24-725.
4.11 Slingshot Kicker Problems
Slingshot kicker assembly below the playfield on a Captain Fantastic. Coil is AP-23-750.
Close up view of the diode on the AP-23-750 slingshot kicker coil.
Bally home model part number cross reference to Bally commercial pinball part numbers.
0606-00033-0000 Slingshot/Pop Bumper bracket use # A-613-1 or B-7417
A614-00017-0000 Coil use # AP-23-750
A614-00005-0000 Kicker Arm Assembly use # A-3459-1 (plastic top sleeve is # C-1062)
0606-00043-0000 Plunger and Link Assembly use # AS-2586
0017-00007-0073 Roll Pin, 1/8 x 7/16, use # P-1637-58
0017-00100-0021 Retaining E Ring use # P-6316-5
0010-00239-0000 Compression Spring use # SP-200-180
5 Repair Logs
Captain Fantastic:
Symptom: All coils energized and stay energized when you turn on the power to the machine.
Cause: CPU chip is corrupted. Generally caused by the power supply +5 volts going overvoltage
Solution: Check and repair the power supply board first. If game still does not boot you may need a replacement CPU chip from Flippers.com http://www.flippers.com/catalog/product_info.php/replacement-bally-home-pinballs-p-2797 or the replacement logic board that is currently in development http://aleg.eu01.aws.af.cm/tony/Pinball%20Mind.html (section 4.2.4 above).
Note there are other reasons that the MPU will not boot including the Strobe wire is broken, the 7445 for the Driver transistors is defective, and/or Opto-Isolator #1 is defective.