General
1 Introduction
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.
2 Safety
2.1 Grounded 3-Prong Plug
If the earth ground prong of a 3-prong plug is clipped or missing, replace the plug. Many of these plugs were clipped, because some older locations where games were placed only had two-prong outlets. The 3rd prong connects the games electrical circuits to "earth ground". In place, it reduces the risk of shock and protects the user. If you have neighboring machines and you feel a "tingle" when you touch the metal rails on both, one or both machines have a missing ground prong.
Use a multimeter set on continuity to ensure that the ground pin is connected to all the metal touchable parts of the game - the rails, the coin door, the legs bolts, etc. Investigate any missing wires and correct. Older games that came without a ground plug should have one added. Attach the green ground wire to the metal frame of the game transformer. Connect ground wires to all touchable metal parts on the game.
2.2 Replacing a Grounded 3-Prong Plug
Most 3-prong plugs will have a green colored screw attach point used to attach the green ground wire.
The right prong (looking at the plug from the front, oriented like a "smiley face"), is the wider, polarizing plug. It may have a silver screw, or a screw attach point colored silver. In the US, the white wire (neutral) attaches to this prong. In Europe, the UK, Australia, and Canada, this wire might be colored blue.
In the US, the remaining (left) prong attaches to the black wire (hot). In Europe, the UK, Australia, and Canada, this wire might be colored brown. The hot screw will typically be gold in color
The memory mnemonic to remember this is "White to Bright". Also, if you think of oil as "Black Gold" - Black to gold.
When installing a new 3-prong plug on a 3-conductor lamp cord (flat wire without colored wires, except green for ground), the neutral wire is typically the conductor with "ribbing" molded into the sheathing. When in doubt, perform a continuity test between the stripped wire end, and where it connects within the game.
2.3 Overfusing
Fuses are designed into your game's electrical circuitry to protect the circuits from damage should some component fail and begin to draw too much electrical current. They are designed to be the "weakest link" in the circuit. When too much current is drawn through the circuit, the fuse should be the first part of the circuit to fail.
Although fuses sometimes fail due to old age or vibration, fuses usually fail for a reason. Locked on coils or flashers, direct shorts of power to ground, and many other reasons will cause a fuse to blow. If you replace a fuse, and it blows again, then you can be sure that something has gone awry.
Always install fuses at the rating specified for your game. Installing a fuse rated higher than spec may cause some other part of the game circuitry to become the weakest link, and damage parts of the game that the fuse is designed to protect.
Fuses are rated in terms of voltage and most importantly amps. Fuses are also designed as "fast blow" or "slow blow"/"time delayed blow". Typical sizes for pinball machines are 1.25 inches and 20mm.
3 Parts to have on hand
All Machines
- Bulbs/Lamps #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.
Electromechanical Machines
- 455 "Blinker" type bulbs for backglass highlights. Helps with heat in the head as well as they are usually about 50% duty cycle.
- Replacement switch blades and high voltage contacts
Solid State Machines
- Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a generic replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.
- Replacement leaf blades and gold flashed contacts
- TIP-102 Transistors
- IN4004 Diodes
- .156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most versatile)
4 Tools of the Trade
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.
4.1 Mechanical Tools
- Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches. 5/32" (4mm) is used on flippers. 5/16" is used for Stern (DE/Sega) head latches if the game's tool can't be found.
- Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy
- Nut driver set, which should include
- 1/4" nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts
- 5/16 nut driver - used for #6 nuts
- 11/32 nut driver - #8 nuts
- 3/8 nut driver - used for #10 nuts
- OPTIONAL: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts in some Sega ball troughs
- OPTIONAL: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't over-tighten.
- Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nut drivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.
- OPTIONAL: Stubby nut drivers, particularly 1/4". They can be useful for getting to playfield locations that are under the head.
- OPTIONAL: Long nut drivers for 1/4" through 3/8". The 8" ones work well for reaching through playfield harnesses.
- OPTIONAL: 24" 1/4" nut driver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. 18-inch version
- Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.
- Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.
- Socket wrench with 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.
- OPTIONAL: Socket spinner handle. Can sub for a nut driver you don't have.
- OPTIONAL: 1/4" deep socket. Some of these are deep enough to envelop certain pots with hexagonal bases.
- Wrenches
- 3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts
- 9/16 wrench - used for head bolts, some leg bolts, and some leg levelers.
- 5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts and all the other leg levelers. UPGRADE: gear wrench
- OPTIONAL: One 4" adjustable end wrench. With a set of standard wrenches, this is just a backup. Or it can save a lot of weight in the toolbox.
- Pliers
- High-brightness LED flashlight
- Magnetic pickup tool
- Magnetic parts dish
- Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)
- Torpedo level - used for leveling game from side to side
- OPTIONAL: E-clip tool. MCM Electronics 22-2790, Jonard CS-1022. For removing and reinstalling e-clips. Greatly reduces the number of e-clips that go AWOL.
- OPTIONAL: Offset screwdriver with 5/32 or 4mm bit. These are fantastic for working on Stern flippers, and great when working on older Williams cranks.
- General's offset screwdriver 8071 is great as it has a forward/reverse switch, but comes with the wrong bits.
- Chapman Manufacturing part CMS-10, or 5120-00-439-8271, is their 5/32 bit. Their handle lacks the forward/reverse switch (have to flip it over).
- A 5/32 hex-key socket (like this) works almost as well but is a tighter fit. Either is a huge improvement over the one that came with your last IKEA purchase. 5/32" is close enough to 4mm as to be more or less interchangeable for both pinball and flat-pack furniture assembly.
4.2 Electrical Tools
- A few alligator clip leads for testing
- Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) RadioShack or Sears are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.
- Side cutters
- Wire stripper
- For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. One example is an Elenco Electronics LP-560
For Connector Work, see below
4.3 Pin Crimping Tools
Molex Crimper Styles
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style.
Saving link here:
https://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=HT-225D&qid=1637339504&s=hi&sr=1-2
4.4 Crimped Pin Removal Tools
Removal of round pins (.093, .084, and .062 for instance) requires a special molex tool that is quite pricey but for which there is no substitute. Each pin diameter requires the tool specific to that diameter. The key to effective use of the tool is to ensure the outer sleeve of the tool is fully "bottomed out" into the connector housing so that the pin's "locking barbs" are both released. If the tool's spring loaded center driver is pushed in before the locking barbs are released, the barbs will bind the pin into the connector housing, perhaps damaging the housing, and definitely making pin removal more difficult.
Sometimes, it's necessary to remove a pin from it's female housing. This can be easily accomplished by using a small pick or jewelers screwdriver to release the pin's "locking barb", then pulling gently on the wire. If the pin was installed with a good crimp, the pin should pull out easily. It may be necessary to install a new pin, or reshape the extracted pin's barb.
A brief video showing the process to remove a molex crimp style pin from a female housing can be seen here.
4.5 Soldering Tools
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.
Portable:
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.
- Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)
- Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)
There is also a type of cordless battery powered iron referred to as "cold heat" - these do not work well for any pinball application, due to the lack of control over the quality of the solder joint produced. Avoid these for pinball work.
Corded:
- Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)
- Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)
- Weller W60P (temperature controlled)
- Weller TB100PK (two heat settings) - excellent, inexpensive iron / gun for soldering coils, switches, lamps, etc. - not recommended for board work
Station:
- Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)
- Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)
- Weller WESD51 (Industrial Grade)
- Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)
Advanced Soldering Irons
The move to lead-free manufacturing forced manufacturers to solder at a more tightly controlled, lower temperature. This requirement led to new irons that can deliver lots of heat, quickly. They have heat-up times of less than 10 seconds, and can solder larger joints than conventional irons. They have tips with built-in elements and temperature sensors. The tips show up on eBay, new and used. They are relatively expensive ($10 - $30) but last longer than regular tips. Expect to spend $200 - $400 to kit up with one of these (eBay). They are valuable if you do board work, as the fast heat delivery means the solder melts without overheating the pad.
Metcal has been making these new irons for some time, so the systems are relatively common on eBay. Metcal systems use high-frequency RF to heat the tip. JBC is a Spanish manufacturer that makes some of the best heat delivery tips out there.
Metcal MX-500P
JBC - these irons really do heat up in 2 seconds (20W handpiece)
Hakko FM series
Weller WXT series
Ersa, Goot, Pace
4.6 Desoldering Tools
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.
- Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.
- Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.
- Hakko 808 or FR-300 (newer model) - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use.
- ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.
4.7 Rework Solder Stations
PACE makes good systems, but they are based on legacy heating designs and are slow to get to temperature. Therefore, they are being eclipsed by new systems from companies such as JBC and Metcal.
- Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously)
- Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder extractor)
- Aoyue 2703A+ SMD repair & rework. Has soldering iron w/vacuum suction, desoldering gun, and hot air gun.
4.8 EM Tools
- Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.
- Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.
- Leaf switch adjuster tools.
4.9 Cleaning & Restoration Supplies
4.9.1 Recommended Supplies
| Product | Uses | Where to get
|
|---|---|---|
| Novus 1 | Light cleaning and polishing of plastics and playfield. Very mild abrasive. | Most pinball suppliers carry all three grades of Novus. |
| Novus 2 | General cleaning and polishing of plastics and playfield. This is an abrasive that should be use sparingly. | |
| Novus 3 | Very abrasive. Cleaning for metal parts only for for evening out deep scratches in plastics. | |
| 91% Isopropyl Alcohol | Cleaning PCB boards. Displaces water. Evaporates quickly, but leaves residue behind. | drug store (CVS, etc)
|
| Naptha | Cleaning off old playfield wax, cleaning off old tape adhesives/residues, cleaning off solder flux. Leaves no residue behind. Note: strong fumes listed as being carcinogenic--use with adequate ventilation. | Hardware store; Lowes, Home Depot. Might be difficult to obtain in California. |
| Goo Gone | Cleaning off various sticky residues, adhesives, and gummy glues. Main ingredient is petroleum distillates. Dissolves friction tape adhesive on backglass lift channels without harming the paint. Note that there is also a similar looking product called "Goof Off", which is not generally recommended because the main ingredient is acetone--a paint remover. | Hardware stores; Walmart |
| Deoxit contact cleaner | electrical contact deoxidizer | |
| Carnauba wax (Blitz brand) | playfield waxing; protectant for restored metal parts | pinballlife.com, amazon, calcarcover.com, topoftheline.com, detailer365.com, serpentautosport.com, thezstore.com |
| Simple green | General cleaning solution, degreaser. Not to be confused with "Mean Green", which can eat through paint. | automotive; Walmart |
| Distilled Vinegar | A mild acid (vinegar) neutralizes battery corrosion (alkaline) on circuit boards. Use a neutralizing agent before attempting repairs on boards damaged by leaking batteries. On triple-layer boards, which aren't very prevalent in pinball (Whitestar (modified) may be the only one) the alkaline can corrode the center conductor layer of the PCB making it impossible to fully neutralize. The "through holes" and "vias" on two sided boards are sometimes tough to completely clean corrosion from also. | Grocery stores |
| Yellow Mustard | Neutralizes battery corrosion (alkaline) on circuit boards. Use a neutralizing agent before attempting repairs on boards damaged by leaking batteries. Alternative to distilled vinegar to better control the area where a neutralizing agent is applied. Mustard's key ingredient is vinegar. | Grocery stores |
| Tarn-X Tarnish Remover | Used to remove tarnishing on ICs/ROMs/PROMs with silver-plated legs. | Amazon, Walmart |
| Evaporust | Used for chemically removing rust from parts. Non-toxic. Sometimes removes paint, depending on the type of paint. Most types of plastic are unaffected. Can safely be stored in tupperware or PVC piping. Evaporates over time if left exposed to air, so must be stored in air-tight containers. | automotive; AdvancedAutoParts.com |
| CLR | Used for chemically removing rust from parts. Needs to be diluted before use. Mild irritant/corrosive. | plumbing; most hardware stores; Walmart |
| Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish | For polishing metal parts with microfiber towels. Use this after metal parts have been cleaned and after rust removal. | automotive; Walmart |
| Bleche white | Used for cleaning metal parts. Might not be as effective any more since the formula changed a few years ago. | automotive |
| Krylon Triple Thick | Backglass sealant. Used for preventing further deterioration and flaking on blackglasses. 1-2 cans recommended per backglass. Not generally recommended for backglasses that are in perfect condition. | Walmart, Amazon, various hardware stores and some pinball parts suppliers |
| GE Clear Silicon II 100% Silicon Caulk | Used for protecting glass display nipples from damage. Note: "Silicon II" is neutral cure caulk. Do not use "Silicon I", which is an acetic cure caulk, as it may eat away at various materials. | Most hardware stores; Lowes, Home Depot |
| Melamine sponge | Also known as a more expensive "Magic Eraser" brand name. Use with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Used for removing varnishes/protectants on EM and 1970s/1980s playfields. Generally used prior to repainting and clear coating playfields. Use with caution--it is very abrasive and can remove paint. Remove residue from surfaces before it dries or it will cake onto the surface. | Generics found on Amazon--however pay attention to the measurements of each sponge, since they vary wildly and some may be too small to be useful. Magic Eraser brand is found in general stores.
|
| Hydrogen Peroxide | Used for de-yellowing yellowed parts. Some recommendations call for Oxy to be added to the solution. Soak the parts in direct sunlight for 24-72 hours. | Use 30%-60% solution found in hair care sections, beauty parlors, or Amazon (as "Salon Care 30/40/60 Volume") for best results. 3% solution is available at grocery or drug stores, which is less effective. Oxy is found alongside laundry detergent. |
| JB Weld | Epoxy used for small patches or to fill small holes in wood. | Hardware stores |
| Bondo | Used to fill holes in cabinets and to re-shape rounded/damaged corners. | Hardware stores, Amazon, Walmart |
| Fiberglass Resin | Stronger filling material than Bondo. Used for rebuilding damaged cabinets with large missing pieces or missing corners. | Hardware stores, Auto Repair stores, Amazon, Walmart |
| Bamboo Skewers or Toothpicks | Used to fill stripped screw holes in playfields or cabinets. Used in concert with wood glue. After the glue is set, drill a hole of the appropriate size for the screw. | Grocery stores, kitchen supply stores, Walmart, Amazon |
| Titebond II Wood Glue | A glue used for gluing wood. | Hardware stores, Walmart |
| Ziplock bags | Can be used to store and separate parts during a tear-down. Include an index card inside the bag to label the bag of parts. | Grocery Stores, Walmart
|
| Index cards | Used for cleaning switch contacts. Pinch the switch contacts together and run an index card between the contacts a few times. Can also be used to label bagged parts. | Dollar stores, Office Supply stores, general stores, Walmart
|
| Pink Rubber Eraser | Used for cleaning edge connector contacts and IC pins. This is a better alternative than sanding since an eraser does not remove any of the metal material, which is already very thin. This method does not work well for cleaning header pins. If header pins need cleaning, they should be replaced anyway. | Dollar stores, Office Supply stores, general stores, Walmart |
| Methylene Chloride | Used to dissolve Loctite. Loctite can be found applied to metal screw holes (such as t-nuts) on DMD games. | Amazon, others? |
| Ceramique 2 (CMQ2-2.7G or CMQ2-25G) | Thermal compound used between components and heat sinks. Compound is not electrically conductive. Originally designed for use with computer CPUs and heat sinks. | Amazon, newegg.com |
| Motsenbocker's Lift Off Latex Based Paint Remover | Latex paint remover to remove custom paint jobs on early solid state stenciled cabinets without harming the original cabinet paint beneath it. | Hardware stores, Lowe's |
| Performix Plasti Dip | Used to coat metal parts in plastic, such as the lever handle of lockbar receivers. | Amazon, hardware stores |
4.9.2 Supplies to Avoid
| Product | Warnings |
|---|---|
| Mean Green | Aggressive general cleaning solution. Tends to eat through paint. Not generally recommended. |
| Goof Off | Cleaner with Acetone as the main ingredient. Listed as a latex paint remover. Eats paint. Not generally recommended as a general cleaner. Use Goo Gone or Naphtha instead to remove adhesive residue. |
| Liquid Silicone | Not recommended for playfields. Silicone soaks into cracks and pores and is almost impossible to remove. Makes a playfield look shiny for a few days, then evaporates. Silicone does make the playfield slippery, but the effect is very short lived compared to real wax. If someone ever tries to clearcoat the playfield, it will be filled with fisheye defects. If someone ever sands the playfield, the dust with the silicone can infect the entire shop. |
| Millwax | Outdated product for pinball use. Not recommended for playfields. It is liquid silicone and does not actually contain wax, which makes things slick, but offers no protection. The silicone will cause problems for the clear coating process (fisheye defects). Leaves white liquid residue behind. Fills cracks with white residue. Williams issued a warning bulletin in 1989 about using cleaners with petroleum distillates, such as millwax and wildcat, because it destroyed the adhesive on mylar and caused the mylar to lift from playfields. |
| Cleaner Wax | Not recommended for playfields. Any wax that claims it is also a cleaner will contain strong solvents abrasive particles used to try to scrub down to fresh layer of paint on a dull, faded automobile. This will wear down the playfield with every use and cause significant damage. |
| Pledge | Not recommended for playfields. Pledge is a mixture of Paraffin Wax and silicone. Paraffin is a very soft wax and offers no actual protection. The shine and slickness of pledge will only last for a few days. |
| Liquid Wax | Not recommended for playfields. Liquid Waxes that are simply "wipe on - wipe off" products are just silicone, fast evaporating solvents and a tiny suspension of paraffin wax. Leaves a very dusty residue after it dries, which ends up being a big mess that needs to be cleaned up. Offers little to no actual protection. The silicone causes problems with the clear coating process (fisheye defects). Shine and slickness are very short lived. |
| Wildcat | Outdated product for pinball use. Not recommended for playfields. Wildcat is a mixture of super strong solvents, petroleum distillates, and silicone, which was recommend by Bally in their manuals at one time. The strong solvents would soften the topcoat allowing the cloth to free ground-in coil dust. The strong solvents will cloud plastic ramps should it accidentally come in contact with them. Don't EVER allow Wildcat to touch anything plastic. Never use Wildcat on a modern pinball playfield with automotive clear coat. Williams issued a warning bulletin in 1989 about using cleaners with petroleum distillates, such as millwax and wildcat, because it destroyed the adhesive on mylar and caused the mylar to lift from playfields. |
| Any products with Petroleum Distillates | Not recommended for pinball use. The strong solvents will cloud plastic ramps should it accidentally come in contact with them. Don't EVER allow it to touch anything plastic. Never use Wildcat on a modern pinball playfield with automotive clear coat. Williams issued a warning bulletin in 1989 about using cleaners with petroleum distillates, such as millwax and wildcat, because it destroyed the adhesive on mylar and caused the mylar to lift from playfields. |
| Blue Magic Metal Polish | Not recommended for pinball use. Contains silicone. The silicone causes problems with the clear coating process (fisheye defects). Protection, shine, and slickness are short lived since the silicone film doesn't last long in a pinball environment. For metal playfield parts, it is better to polish, then for protection, wax with carnauba wax, or seal with clear coat or polyurethane. |
4.10 Lubrication
In nearly every instance, lubrication should not be used. The exceptions are metal on metal mechanical points (stepper unit pivot points, stepper unit wipers, and the pivot points of very few mechanical assys.). Although Williams stated to use graphite powder for lubrication on coil plungers where aluminum or brass coil sleeves were used, it is best to just replace the metal coil sleeves with new nylon sleeves (Note: some brass coil sleeves are integral to the coil's winding, and are not removeable). A general rule of thumb is where metal makes contact with plastic, lubrication is not needed. However, if lubrication is necessary, Super Lube Teflon gel is a very good product to use. However, it should be used very sparingly. When in doubt, under lubrication is better than over lubrication.
In no instance should WD-40 be used as a lubricant! WD-40 is a great product, but should used as intended. It can be used for breaking apart seized screws, bolts, or associated mechanisms, but should thoroughly be cleaned off once a unit has been disassembled. It is also an excellent way to keep surface rust from forming on pinballs (the ball itself) in storage, but make sure to clean thoroughly before installing in a machine.
There is one other good use for WD-40 regarding pinball machines. Coin door stickers, operator stickers on aprons, and game permit stickers all tend to make their way onto pinball machines. WD-40 is a very good product which can be used to remove sticker residue.
It also makes an excellent hand cleaner.
4.11 Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs
In work
5 How to Twist Wires Together Neatly
Easy as Pie...
- Chuck both wires in a slow speed drill
- Hold other end firmly
- Engage, and watch with amazement as the wires neatly twist around each-other.
As you can see from the results below, this old technique yields excellent results.
- How to neatly twist two (or more) wires together
Chuck the wires 
End result 
End result detail. Nice...
6 Repairing Wiring Damaged by IDC Connectors
IDC (Insulation Displacement Connectors) were used by all pinball manufactures for no other reason but to speed production. It was much faster/cheaper to "punch" wiring into an IDC connector than to crimp pins onto the wires then insert the crimped pin into a connector. IDC connectors are inferior to crimp pin connectors if reliability and connection quality is the main concern.
Sometimes the wiring at the IDC connector becomes pulled, frayed, etc. The wiring should be repaired to ensure a good connection. One method is shown in the picture gallery below.
- Repairing Damaged Connector Wiring
The "problem"...the wire insulation has been compromised. 
Heat shrink tubing in place, the wires have been twisted together and soldered. 
Heat shrink tubing has been shrunk and the joined wire has been "punched" into the IDC connector using a proper punch tool. The wire with orange tracer will be repaired next.
7 Repairing Broken IC Legs
Sometimes the leg of an integrated circuit will break off.
If the "meaty" part of the leg remains, repair is not difficult.
If the pin breaks at the point where it enters the chip carrier plastic, the same technique detailed below can be used, but part of the chip carrier plastic will need to be removed with a Dremel to expose enough metal so that the donor leg can be attached.
- Repairing Damaged Integrated Circuit Leg
The "problem"...the thin part of the top chip's leg has broken off. The lower chip will provide a "donor leg". 
The broken leg is tinned with a small amount of solder. The donor leg is positioned in a spare socket. 
The IC is inserted into the socket with the donor leg in the proper position. The leg is then heated until the solder melts and the donor leg "wicks" to the existing chip leg. 
The completed repair is quite durable.
8 Connector Headers and Housings
Solid electrical connections between connectors and header pins are essential to the proper operation of a game. Heat damaged or worn out connectors (and they do have a service life) increase electrical resistance, which causes more heat, which causes more resistance, etc. Ideally, the connection of a female housing to a male header pin will measure zero resistance, just like a short length of wire would.
It's tempting to remove corrosion or tarnish from male header pins by sanding them. While this will remove the corrosion, it also ruins the long term reliability of the header pins as can be seen in the picture at left. Header pins typically have a mate/unmate life limit. Sanding header pins exhausts all of this life limit.
Most modern pinball manufacturers used IDC connectors (Insulation Displacement Connector). When connector replacement becomes necessary, crimp-on pins and housings are preferred to IDC connectors. IDC connectors were originally used to increase the speed of manufacture, at the expense of long term reliability. While replacing IDC connectors with new IDC connectors can certainly return a game to operation, a better solution for long term reliability is to use Trifurcon crimp-on pins where possible. Trifurcon pins form a much better electrical connection to the male pin and the crimp forms a much better electrical connection to the wire. A variety of crimping tools may be used, but nothing other than a crimping tool should be used (i.e. don't use needle nose pliers). Get the right tool for the job.
.156" IDC housings used in Williams and Bally games cannot be reused with crimp connectors. However, Gottlieb .156" IDC housings can be reused. .100" IDC housings cannot be reused regardless of the pinball machine manufacturer.
Many modern games "loop" a wire through an IDC connector, making a connection between the wire and two pins. This is easily done with an IDC connector as shown in the left image of an OEM IDC connector and as shown in the right image of a replacement IDC connector that has been stuffed.
Using crimp-on pins, there are two options to connect a wire to two separate pin positions.
The first option is to "fork" the wire into two conductors as shown in the picture at left. While this is time consuming, it does make an effective and solid electrical connection. Strip about 1/4" of insulation from the wires. Position adequately sized heat-shrink tubing. Solder the three wires together. After the solder junction cools, move the heat-shrink into place and shrink it. Crimp pins are easily crimped to the single wires.
The second option is to crimp two wires into a single crimp pin. The technique for this is shown at right. This is certainly an effective method. Crimping two wires into a single crimp pin is the most difficult task. Generally, more insulation should be stripped back, the wires twisted tightly together, and the crimp pin positioned to cover all of the exposed wire. With a little practice, this is easily accomplished.
9 Connector Designations
Connectors/jacks/plugs tend to have a P or J prefix assigned to them. A connector in a fixed location (such as on a circuit board) is normally referred to as a jack, while a movable connector is a plug.
Jacks use the reference designator prefix of J and plugs use the reference designator prefix of P. For example, if a PCB has a label of J5 on it, it essentially means that the connector on the board is designated as "Jack 5".
When a male and female plug are connected together, each side is considered a plug--however, the male side typically uses the designation of J and the female side typically uses the designation of P.
10 Making a "Universal Lock"
Locks that are "keyed alike" are a great idea for the hobbyist with many games. Another option, is to create a "universal lock". The procedure is simple. Remove the screw that holds the lock tang in place along with the lock tang. Pull the "plug" assembly from the "hull" (see picture at left). Use a beefy pair of needle nose pliers to yank the (typically) brass "keying pins" out of the plug. Shake the tiny springs out of the plug too.
Reinsert the plug back into the hull, then screw the tang back onto the lock. All that is needed now is a flat blade screwdriver to open your game.
This is a great option for EM game backbox locks.
11 Soldering & Desoldering
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering.
A very good guide on an introduction to soldering is available here.
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!
11.1 Equipment and Supplies
11.1.1 The basic soldering iron
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. One example is the Weller WESD-51.
11.1.2 Tip Cleaner
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.
11.1.3 Solder
There are three things that matter with solder.
The diameter. In pinball, .031" is a good general purpose size. Thicker, and you'll be blobbing everywhere except on the biggest joints. Thinner, and it takes a lot of solder to feed a joint.
The alloy, typically tin-lead, expressed as something like 63/37, which means 63% tin and 37% lead. For pinball, 63/37 is the best overall alloy. The common 60/40 is a shade cheaper, but isn't as good. In particular, it goes through a pasty mode before it hardens. If it is moved while pasty, you can get a bad joint. You can use 60/40, but 63/37 is more reliable. You won't like lead-free solder, as it has to be hotter and does not flow as well. Plus, even good joints look frosty.
The flux, which might be rosin, no-clean or water soluble. You don't want water soluble, as it can leave an acid residue if not washed. No clean is nice, as it doesn't leave blobs of flux hanging on a joint. Rosin, the classic flux, is aggressive and effective, but leaves joints dirty and should be cleaned with alcohol when used on boards.
A fourth parameter is the number of solder cores, typically 50 - 66. Doesn't matter for pinball, but a higher core count should be a little easier to use.
So you will want one of these two types:
- Rosin-core .031 63/37 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-0026). This is super easy to use and will get you the best joints (AKA Kester 44)
- No-clean .031 6337 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-8801). Easy to use, no cleaning needed (AKA Kester 245).
If you want to get solder locally, Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009.
As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. However, the US still has few restrictions on the use and sale of leaded solder.
Kester 245 "no-clean" solder (24-6337-5400 with an obsolete 50 core count) can be found from several suppliers.
Mouser also carries a good range of 63/37 solders Mouser 63/37 solders
Under no circumstances should Acid-core (plumbing) solder be used anywhere on a pinball machine.
11.1.4 Optional Equipment
- Small tweezers or clamps such as My Handy - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.
- Crocodile clips to make temporary connections and testing easier.
11.2 Soldering wires
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything.
Here are the simple steps:
- You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.
- Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.
- Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.
- Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool.
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts through the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or "hemo-stats" are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, you may have created what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.
Things to Know
- Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and the solder joint will be unreliable.
- It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. Once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.
- Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that threading the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.
11.3 Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are delicate and can become damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied for too long, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult. It is better to use more heat for less time than less heat for more time.
When the replacement of a chip is necessary, it is recommended to use a chip socket (in most all instances - there are some exceptions), versus soldering a replacement chip directly onto the circuit board. The reasoning is two-fold:
- Adding a chip socket reduces the amount of heat applied to a circuit board in the future should the same chip fail.
- If the same chip does fail, replacement of the chip will be much easier.
When soldering a chip socket in place, skipping from side to side for subsequent joints or skipping every other pin as you solder can help alleviate the risk of heating up a small part of the board, causing lifted pads and traces. A good solderer with the proper equipment can solder a 40 pin chip socket into place on a PCB in about 2 minutes.
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.
After a chip socket has been soldered onto a board, it is equally a good practice to check for continuity between the socket pin and the adjoining circuitry, and discontinuity between adjacent socket positions. If there isn't continuity between the chip socket and its associated circuits, check / inspect the work performed. Likewise, if there is continuity between neighboring chip socket positions, check for excess solder or foreign material creating a conductive bridge between the two.
Note: in some cases, a PCB has traces or pads intentionally tied together between adjacent chip sockets. Consult the schematics of the particular board being worked on to verify if this is the case, when two sockets are determined to have continuity.
Clean Up Flux Residue
From Wikipedia: The role of flux in the joining processes is typically dual: dissolving of the oxides on the metal surface, which facilitates wetting by molten metal, and acting as an oxygen barrier by coating the hot surface, preventing its oxidation. In some applications molten flux also serves as a heat transfer medium, facilitating heating of the joint by the soldering tool or molten solder.
Once you've made an awesome solder joint, clean up the corrosive flux residue that remains behind. Even "no clean" flux leaves residue that should be cleaned up, if only to provide evidence that a professional repair job has been done. Denatured alcohol, naptha, and many other mild solvents can be used. Products specifically manufactured for flux removal are usually quite expensive, but would obviously work well.
11.3.1 Bending Discrete Through-hole Components
An easy way to bend resistors, capacitors, etc to length when replacing them is to use a popsicle stick or an old drop target, as pictured at left. Bend the leads around the target. This works well for many older game systems like Bally -17/-35, Williams, etc.
And then there is the tool that is specifically designed for the job (right).
11.3.2 Repairing Damaged Through Holes
11.3.3 Repairing Damaged Through Holes - Through Hole Eyelet
The best method of repairing through holes is to "rebuild" the through hole. This can be accomplished using appropriately sized "eyelets".
- Cleanup up parts of the through hole that are not securely attached.
- Drill the trough hole with a drill bit sized to match the outside diameter (OD) of the replacement eyelet.
- Trim the eyelet flanges as necessary to prevent shorts to adjacent eyelets or traces.
- Insert the eyelet.
- Clench the eyelet on the other side of the board if necessary. Mostly, soldering the unclenched side of the eyelet is sufficient.
- Flow solder from the adjacent trace to the eyelet flange. Use flux to ensure good solder flow.
- Install the part and solder.
- All done!
Keystone Circuit Board Hardware is a good choice.
- Eyelet 34 - 3/32x.125 for .156 header through holes (Mouser link)
- Eyelet 23 - 1/16x.093 for parts like TIP-102 transistor through holes (Mouser link))
Pace "Funnelets" are pricey but excellent for IC component through holes
- 1347-0009-P100 - .036 ID, .047OD, .085 length (TEquipment Link)
A short video of some of the eyelets that can be used can be found here.
11.3.4 Repairing Damaged Through Holes - Wire Stitch Method
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.
Procedure:
- Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".
- Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 1/2" will be enough.
- Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.
- Solder the component side of the stich to the trace.
- Install the new component (or socket).
- Flip the board over.
- Wrap the excess stranded wire around the component leg.
- Solder the stitch wire to the component leg and the PCB.
- All done!
A video of the procedure being performed on a WPC Power/Driver board C5 capacitor location can be viewed here.
11.3.5 Using an old Socket to Align SIPs and Headers
Using an old socket to position two SIPs perfectly is easy, as shown in the picture at left.
Likewise, an old socket can be used to position headers perfectly in line when more than one header strip is used/needed, as shown in the picture at right.
11.4 Desoldering Printed Circuit Board Through Hole Components
There are several methods of desoldering through hole components from printed circuit boards. The average home hobbyist should typically send boards in need of repair to a professional board repair technician. If you already know about desoldering irons like the Hakko 808 or FR-301, then you probably don't need the following advice.
The simplest way to desolder almost any through hole component from a PCB is to cut the part from the board, leaving enough of the legs to individually heat and remove. The through hole can then be cleaned with one of various "solder suckers", solder wick, or even heating the hole and blowing compressed air through the hole (caution is advised).
The key to avoiding damage to PCB solder pads is to use just enough heat, for just enough time. Only practice will help you find the right technique.
The three steps to desoldering a through hole component are shown in the picture gallery below.
A YouTube video demonstrating this method can be found here.
- Easy removal of a through hole component. This example is a TIP-122 transistor on a Sega/WhiteStar Power/Driver board.
Clip the part off with a sharp pair of side cutters. 
Heat each individual leg and remove with a needle nose pliers, or even the side cutters. A slender iron tip like this one makes the job much easier. 
Clean up the through holes with your preferred solder sucker. The technician here is using a Hakko 472.
Many manufacturer's boards were soldered with very little "excess" solder at the through hole, like the WhiteStar DMD Controller pictured left. While perfect for original manufacture, the small amount of solder available to heat with a Hakko 808 or equivalent solder sucking tool, makes desoldering difficult. The simple trick is to add a small amount of solder to the joint before attempting to desolder the joint.
If you've sucked or wicked all of the solder from the trough holes, the part will generally come loose with just a bit of coaxing. Exceptions are alkaline corroded parts or just about anything on a Gottlieb System 3 board (very tight through holes). In the picture at left, most of the holes are clean enough to attempt removal. On the lower edge of the chip, pins 2 through 4 from the left, too much solder remains in the through hole to attempt removal. Add a little solder to the joint from the solder side, then clean the hole again.
Under no circumstances should the part be "pried" from the board. Doing so creates a significant risk of fracturing a PCB trace. In the picture at right, a well meaning hobbyist attempted to pry the 6264 RAM from a WPC-089 MPU board while installing NVRAM. This is a super Corky no-no.
12 Desoldering Snap Caps
Removing the large 10,000 or 15,000uf capacitors from pinball PCBs is not trivial and probably shouldn't be attempted by most home pinball enthusiasts.
Also, some vendors provide "cap kits" that do not match the physical size of the original caps. Tall slender capacitors mounted horizontally on a pinball PCB is not a good idea since the vibration environment is quite harsh and fractured solder joints will occur over time.
"Back in the day", the advice dispensed most often was to heat one lead, rock the cap to the side, heat the other lead, rock the cap to the other side, continue until the cap can be pulled free. Unfortunately, in addition to removing the snap cap, often the PCB through holes would be removed also, appearing as "brown donuts" around the snap cap leads as shown at left. Using this old school technique is highly discouraged.
Instead, add solder to both snap cap leads. Heat both leads simultaneously, either with a solder tip wide enough to reach both leads, or with two soldering irons (it's good to have a friend, or three hands, your choice). When the solder becomes molten on both leads and all the way through the through hole, the cap can be gently extracted.
A video demonstrating an excellent technique for removing snap caps can be found here.
13 DIP (Dual In-line Package) Pin Numbering Convention
The diagram at left shows standard pin numbering for integrated circuits. Pin 1 is always located at the chips "dot" or if the chip does not have a dot, immediately to the left of the chip's "notch". The pin "legs" are then numbered sequentially around the chip counter-clockwise. This convention is observed for DIP packages of all sizes.
Never rely on the ICs printed label. As shown in the picture at right, an IC might be labeled completely reversed from the identical chip from the same manufacturing facility.
14 Sockets
Sockets are used to secure integrated circuits to printed circuit boards, without soldering the IC directly to the board. They are well advised when doing any kind of IC replacement. By using a socket, PCB damage caused by repeated desolder/solder cycles is avoided.
There are two basic kinds of sockets widely used on PCBs.
- Machined Pin Sockets
- Twin Leaf Sockets (also called "dual wipe")
"Open Frame" refers to the construction of the socket. As you can see in the picture at left, closed frame sockets do not provide a "view" through the center of the socket. For this reason, open frame sockets are generally preferred.
Sockets, like connectors, have a typical insertion/removal cycle specification. Opinions vary on which style is preferred. Some say that the life expectancy of machined pins sockets is shorter than twin leaf sockets, and that the machined pin socket connections sometimes become marginal. Machined pin sockets generally form more reliable or solid solder joints to the PCB, which is nice unless the socket needs to be removed. Twin leaf sockets are much easier to remove once installed. Machined pin sockets are easier to use as "risers" (soldered just above the PCB) when the PCB solder pads have been damaged and soldering on the "component side" of the board is necessary. This technique is especially effective when combined with SIP (single inline package) machined pin sockets.
Twin leaf sockets are easily damaged if something dimensionally larger than an IC leg is inserted into the socket. In the picture at left (and in the closeup (right), a damaged aftermarket replacement socket on a WPC MPU (for an LM339) caused intermittent issues with the switch matrix.
15 Logic Probes
Overview
One of the simplest and cheapest tools you can include in your test equipment arsenal is a logic probe. Although a lot of people seem overwhelmed by logic probes, they are actually very easy to use. In regards to their purpose, consider a logic probe as a bridge between a meter and a scope.
While a meter is great for reading constant voltages (see image to the right) they fall short when a signal is pulsed (see second image to the right, which is a 12 volt pulsed signal from the switch matrix). What the meter will try to do with this signal is average it and give you a single voltage reading, which is not very helpful. Of course a scope works great on pulsed signals, but is much more expensive, and complicated.
Specific to pinball, both the lamp and switch matrices are pulsed, plus circuits on the cpu, display and sound boards. While you can infer readings from the switch matrix, for example, using a meter it is much easier to just use a logic probe.
The official version of this article is: TerryB's Guide To Logic Probes (on Pinside)
Buying a Logic Probe
In the image to the left you can see my recommended logic probe, the Elenco LP-560, available at Amazon for $17. You can spend more, but this is really all you need. In addition to all of the standard features (which we'll discuss more in a little bit) it also provides an audible tone in addition to the led's. While this will not benefit you much initially, as you become more proficient there are times when the audible tone provides a better indication of a pulsed circuit than the leds.
The only function that it does not have is a pulser, which allows you to apply a signal to a circuit. This is a fairly advanced technique and most hobbyists will never have need for it.
Logic Families
Note: The information in this section has been simplified in order to align with the goal of a beginner level guide. For example, both CMOS and TTL gates have different input and output logic levels, although we will consider them as being the same for our purposes. While not necessary, if you want to fully understand the differences between TTL and CMOS logic levels see the following article at All About Circuits.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/digital/chpt-3/logic-signal-voltage-levels/
There are different logic families, or generations, of integrated circuits. Each logic family has different behavior and within each logic family there can be subsets with different characteristics. The only two we need to be concerned with in regards to our discussion are TTL and CMOS.
TTL chips use a nominal Vcc (Vcc is the fancy term for the supply voltage) of 5 volts and the inputs and outputs are always binary (low, high or pulsed). TTL chips typically, but not always, use a standard naming convention of 54XX or 74XX.
On the other hand, CMOS chips can use a Vcc ranging from 3 - 15 volts and depending on the chip can have either binary (low, high or pulsed) or analog inputs and outputs. CMOS chips typically, but not always, use a numbering convention of 40XX or 45XX.
One example of CMOS in a pinball machine is the LM339 voltage comparator used in Williams/Bally switch matrix circuits. We'll discuss this in more detail as we get into the switch matrix example, but for now the important part is to be able to recognize whether an IC is TTL or CMOS. If in doubt, you can always check the datasheet for any given IC.
Based on the logic family of the chip there are different voltage ranges that are considered to be low or high in a digital circuit. In the case of TTL the low range is 0 - .8 volts and the high range is 2 - 5 volts. So any reading between 0 and .8 volts is considered a logic 0 and any reading between 2 and 5 volts is considered a logic 1.
The specification for CMOS circuitry in a 5 volt circuit is a low range of 0 - 1.5 and a high range of 3.5 - 5. For a 10 volt Vcc the low range would be 0 - 3 volts and the high range 7 - 10 volts. The high and low voltage ranges scale linearly across the possible supply voltages of 3 -15 volts.
Thankfully you don't need to remember all that though, since there is a TTL/CMOS switch on the Elenco (and in fact all logic probes except for those that are auto-sensing). Put the switch in the correct position (based on the previous information about CMOS and TTL) and it will correctly read low and high signals for that logic family.
Logic Probe Features
The first thing you will notice is that the logic probe has two wires (red and black) with alligator clips at the end. This is where the probe gets it's power and they must be connected to ground and supply voltage. If you're testing a 5 volt circuit, the red lead goes to 5 volts and the black lead to ground. If you're testing a 12 volt circuit (parts of the switch matrix, for example) the red lead goes on 12 volts and the black lead on ground.
The pointy thing at the other end from the two wires is the probe. Unlike a meter this single probe is all you need to take your readings. There are two switches, TTL/CMOS and MEM/PULSE, that will need to be set properly.
If you're analyzing a TTL chip, put the TTL/CMOS switch in TTL and when checking a CMOS chip, put the switch in CMOS. The MEM position on the MEM/PULSE switch will capture a pulse and retain the reading, which is advantageous in some rare situations, but for our purposes here you want it set to PULSE.
The last, and most important part, of the logic probe are the HI/LO and PULSE led's. The red (HI), green (LO) and yellow (PULSE) led's are used to indicate the state of the measurement point. Note: Some logic probes use different combinations of lights to indicate the status, so just a reminder, we're specifically talking about the Elenco logic probe here.
In the first image to the left you can see the various signals that can be indicated by the led's. In most cases you can narrow these down to three issues: is the line high, is the line low or is the line pulsed. The next image on the left provides another representation, comparing the led's to what you would see on an oscilloscope.
Switch Matrix Example
Now let's look at a real world example (Williams WPC in this case, but the theory is the same on other games) to see how the logic probe works when testing the switch matrix. Note: It is beyond the scope of this article to cover how the switch matrix works. See the following link for more information on the switch matrix: Switch Matrix.
The image below provides a generic WPC switch matrix circuit and we'll walk through what each test point should look like, starting with the column, or send, signals.
The ULN2803 is a TTL chip that uses 5 volt logic on the input (point B) and controls a 12 volt signal on the output (point A). So the logic probe should be set to TTL and the red lead connected to 5 volts when testing inputs and 12 volts when testing outputs.
Tip: If you look at the image below you will see three red circles with pull-up resistors and a supply voltage within them. If the pull-up resistor is connected to a 5 volt supply you know you are working on a 5 volt circuit and if it's connected to a 12 volt source you know you're working on a 12 volt circuit.
With our logic probe connected to 5 volts and the probe on point B we will get a green light and the yellow light will be pulsing. This indicates a low signal with high pulses. This signal is a constant timing pulse and will not change based on the status of the switch.
The circle shown at point A tells us that the output signal from the ULNL2803 is inverted. So a high input provides a low output, and a low input provides a high output. Therefore, with our logic probe connected to 12 volts and the probe on point A we will get a red light and the yellow light will be pulsing. This indicates a high signal with low pulses.
The row side gets slightly more complex and the readings will change based on the status of the switch. The first part of the circuit we are concerned with is the LM339. It is a CMOS chip that takes a 12 volt signal on the + input (point C) and provides 5 volt logic on the output (point D). So the logic probe should be set to CMOS and the red lead connected to 12 volts when testing inputs and 5 volts when testing outputs.
With our logic probe connected to 12 volts and the probe on point C we will get a red light with the switch open, which indicates a high reading. With the switch closed we will get a red light and the yellow light will be pulsing. This indicates a high signal with low pulses.
With our logic probe connected to 5 volts and the probe on point D we will get a red light with the switch open, which indicates a high reading. With the switch closed we will get a red light and the yellow light will be pulsing. This indicates a high signal with low pulses.
The 74LS240 is a TTL chip and since there is a circle on the output we know that the signal is inverted. So with our logic probe set to TTL, connected to 5 volts and the probe on test point E we will get a green light with the switch open and a green light with the yellow light pulsing with the switch closed. The former indicates a low reading and the latter a low reading with high pulses.
The image below provides a graphical representation of the logic probe led status for each test point.
16 DMD Display Panel Repair
The major DMD panel manufacturers were/are Vishay/Dale, Cherry, and Babcock. All three manufacturers used very similar designs that involved row and column high voltage signal routers as well as a few smaller discrete components. Some panels use 4 column drive ICs. Others used a larger degree of integration needing only 2 column drive ICs.
DMD panel repair is not always economically feasible, and generally requires a high level of soldering/desoldering skill. "Outgassed" displays aren't worth repairing as the glass panels are now difficult to find and pricey when they can be found. And, only the older display glass examples have "header pins" versus the "glue" or "tape" attachments to the board which simply aren't repairable.
However, there are a few situations where repair might be considered.
Shorted Negative High Voltages
Under load, the negative high voltage pins should exhibit a 12VDC offset. If these voltages measure close to the same value when connected to the power supply, and the power supply tests good without the display connected, then it's likely that parts on the display panel are shorted.
When disconnected from power, measuring the resistance between the two negative high voltage pins should read about 330 Kohms. Shorted parts will cause this resistance to measure much less, perhaps even a dead short.
The ICs on the board can be tested via diode test. In the example below, it was easily determined that the 14069 at U6 was shorted. Also, pins 25 and 26 (in pics 2 and 4 below, the left side of the chip pad, 2nd/3rd and 4th pins up from the bottom) of the HV5222PJ at U8 where shorted. Damage to the two ICs was evident even with the naked eye.
- Vishay/Dale DMD Panel Gallery
A fried 14069 on a shorted damaged DMD panel. 
A shorted HV5222PJ row controller. 
The solder pads for U6 
The solder pads for U8
17 Testing an integrated circuit
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.
A video showing this procedure can be found here.
This procedure works for many 74XX series ICs.
Procedure:
- Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test.
- Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".
- Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if testing multiple chips on the same board.
- Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.
Interpreting the results:
- A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.
- A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.
- A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.
- Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.
- Comparing your results against results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.
Readings outside of this range may indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.
18 Testing fuses
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. A visual inspection of a fuse is not usually enough to reveal a potentially bad fuse, so a multimeter must be used to check for continuity across the fuse. To test the fuse, set the multimeter to the "continuity" or "buzz" setting.
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading, as shown in the picture at left. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher amperage fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec voltage (higher is OK), and always use the correct fast/slow blow type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job of being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.
19 Testing for Shorted Signals
Solder splashes and craptastic prior rework are the bane of pinball board techs across the globe. Sometimes, high voltage shorts to a board will cause internal chip shorts, bridging two signals within the chip. Whatever the reason, signals shorted together can be difficult to track down.
A methodical process for detecting signals shorted together follows.
- Set a DMM to continuity.
- Black probe on pin 1 of the microprocessor (chosen since almost all signals go to the microprocessor. Other ICs might be a better choice given the problem being diagnosed)
- Starting with pin 2 of the microprocessor, use the red probe to "rake" pins 2 through 40.
- In general, there should be no continuity. If continuity is detected, consult the schematics for possible signals tied to ground or to 5VDC. At this point, signals shorted together may have been identified.
- Move the black probe to pin 2 of the microprocessor.
- Rake pins 3 through 40, listening for continuity.
- Move the black probe to pin 3 of the microprocessor.
- Rake pins 4 through 40, listening for continuity.
- Continue the process until all pin-to-pin tests have been completed (black probe on pin 39, "raking" pin 40 with the red probe).
A video showing this procedure can be found here.
20 Testing a Diode
A modern solid state pinball machine uses hundreds of diodes in the switch matrix, lamp matrix, and on coils.
Diode in a switch or lamp matrix are used to electrically isolate the switch or lamp within the matrix. This allows the MPU to sense only the switches it intends to, and turn on only the lamps that it intends to.
Diodes are used on coils to "snub" the "back electromotive force" or back EMF. Without this snubber diode, the reverse current created when the coil's magnetic field collapses would damage the transistor that allows power to the coil to flow to ground and turn on the coil.
Diodes on coils (or in coil circuits) can not be tested in circuit. This is because electricity always follows the path of least resistance. Your DMM will measure the current drop through the coil winding instead of the diode itself. At least one leg of a diode must be cut from the coil to test the diode. Since diodes are so cheap, it's reasonable to simply replace a suspect coil diode.
Diodes on lamps and switches may be tested in circuit.
Testing a diode:
- Set your meter to diode test
- Black lead on the "banded side" of the diode
- Red lead on the "non-banded side" of the diode
- A reading of .4 to .7 should be measured
- Reverse the leads
- An open reading should be measured (not short, or zero resistance)
1N4004 diodes are typically used for pinball applications although anything from a 1N4001 to a 1N4007 can be used for switch, lamp, and coil applications. 1N4148 and 1N5817 diodes are also used. They can be tested in the same way as shown above but the anticipated reading will vary.
Zener diodes can also be partially tested using the same technique. Zener diodes "break down" at a specific voltage, which is less than the voltage that a DMM uses in diode test. While it's possible to test the diode's ability to block voltage, verifying it's breakdown voltage is not possible with DMM alone.
21 How coils, flashers, and motors are turned on
In this section, we'll use a coil for the example. The principle is identical for all other solid state driven devices, such as flash lamps and motors.
In most machines, every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at all coil lugs. Exceptions are...
- Williams System 11 and Data East/Sega games which have an A/C (side) select relay that switches power between two banks...a bank of coils and a bank of flashers.
- Flipper coils on Data East games that use the Solid State Flipper Board. The SSFB provides power to the coils only after the cabinet flipper button switch is closed.
If you set your DMM to DC voltage, place the black lead of your DMM on game ground such as the ground braid or the side rail, and place the red lead of your DMM on either coil lug, you should read nominal coil voltage (exactly what voltage level depends on the game system). Your DMM reads the voltage at both/all coil lugs because, when the coil is off, there is no current through the coil to cause a voltage drop. Power present at one coil lug is guaranteed to be present at the other coil lug unless the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is disconnected from the lug.
Referencing the diagram at left, placing the red probe of your DMM at any point labeled "P", and the black lead of your DMM on game ground (labeled "G"), should read nominal coil voltage.
All that is required for the coil to "fire" is for the ground lug of the coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor, or by closing a switch that creates a path to ground.
This is also a good illustration of how to test a coil, and the power circuit. Grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly. If the coil does not fire, then either the coil is not receiving power, or the coil winding has a break in it, or the coil winding is not attached securely to the coil's solder tab(s).
22 Testing a Bridge Rectifier
22.1 General Information About Bridge Rectifiers
A bridge rectifier integrates 4 discrete diodes into a single package. The purpose of a bridge rectifier is to convert (or rectify) AC voltage into DC voltage.
An example of a bridge rectifier is pictured at left. Bridges will have either "spade" leads (as used on Williams System 11 and Data East power supplies) or wire leads (as used on WPC Power/Driver boards). Both types operate in exactly the same manner.
Note the notch in one corner of the bridge rectifier. On older bridge rectifiers, there may be a small bump on the corner instead of a notch. In either case, this feature indicates the (positive) DC output. Diagonally opposite that lug is the (negative) DC return.
When testing a bridge rectifier, it is actually the individual internal diodes that are being tested. Be sure to review "Testing A Diode" for the simple test procedure.
To help illustrate how a bridge rectifier is arranged, here is how one can be assembled using diodes.
What a bridge rectifier actually does is alter the waveform of electrical voltage. Alternating Current (AC) has a waveform that alternates (rises and falls at a generally consistent frequency, or "cycles", hence terms like 60 cycle power as is found in the US). Typically, the cycle resembles a sine wave. The time measured between each peak of the wave represents a single cycle (or "hertz", abbreviated as "Hz"). In the United States, AC power is 60Hz, while in Europe, it is 50Hz.
A full wave rectifier "flips" the negative portion of the sine wave into a positive wave. A half-wave rectifier simply eliminates the negative portion of the sine wave.
In power circuits that need a consistent voltage with little remaining AC component or "ripple", a large value "filter" capacitor is used to attenuate the AC ripple out of the waves and produce a steady, "flat" DC (Direct Current) voltage. The capacitor charges as the AC signal rises and then discharges as the AC signal falls, keeping the output voltage more or less constant DC. This technique is used in the 5VDC power circuits of most game systems.
22.2 Bridge Rectifier Testing Procedure
The procedure and pictures below illustrate how to test a bridge rectifier with a DMM.
A short video demonstrating the following procedure can be found here.
Procedure:
- Place your DMM into "diode test".
- Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge.
- Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.
- A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes).
- Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge
- Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.
- Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen.
- Four steps to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.
"Wire" style bridge as found on WPC Power/Driver and FlipTronics II boards. 
"Spade" style bridge as found on Data East and WMS Power System 11 Power Supplies and Data East PPB boards.
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc).
23 Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)
A video showing how to test a TIP-102 can be found here.- A video showing how to test a TIP-36c can be found here.
- A video showing how to test a FET (ala IRL540, 13N10L, etc) can be found here.
<MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1>
<need to add a separate section on FETs>
<need to add a separate section on SCRs>
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two versions, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used except for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. NPN and PNP transistors are called "complimentary" transistors.
A transistor can fail in two ways. When the interior material melts and fuses, it creates a continuous short. More rarely, the transistor may fail "open", and never switch the circuit.
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:
- TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right
- TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards
- TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards
- TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC
- TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE
- TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.
Notes:
- some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (versus .4 to .6 as noted below).
- a gentle reminder ... a transistor can "test" good and still be bad.
- all testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test".
NPN TO-3 MJ10000
Black Probe-Red Probe
- E-B .250
- E-C open
- B-E .250
- B-C open
- C-E .530
- C-B .530
NPN TO-3 2N3055
Black Probe-Red Probe
- E-B nn
- E-C nn
- B-E nn
- B-C nn
- C-E nn
- C-B nn
NPN TO-3 2N6057
Black Probe-Red Probe
- E-B nn
- E-C nn
- B-E nn
- B-C nn
- C-E nn
- C-B nn
NPN TO-3 2N6059
Black Probe-Red Probe
- E-B nn
- E-C nn
- B-E nn
- B-C nn
- C-E nn
- C-B nn
PNP TO-3 MJ2955
Black Probe-Red Probe
- E-B nn
- E-C nn
- B-E nn
- B-C nn
- C-E nn
- C-B nn
PNP TO-3 2N5875
Black Probe-Red Probe
- E-B nn
- E-C nn
- B-E nn
- B-C nn
- C-E nn
- C-B nn
PNP TO-3 2N5879
Black Probe-Red Probe
- E-B nn
- E-C nn
- B-E nn
- B-C nn
- C-E nn
- C-B nn
PNP TO-3 2N5880
Black Probe-Red Probe
- E-B nn
- E-C nn
- B-E nn
- B-C nn
- C-E nn
- C-B nn
PNP TO-3 2N5884
Black Probe-Red Probe
- E-B nn
- E-C nn
- B-E nn
- B-C nn
- C-E nn
- C-B nn
NPN TO-92 package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)
- Place the red lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor
- Probe each of the flanking legs with the black lead
- .4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
- Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
PNP TO-92 package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)
- Place the black lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor
- Probe each of the flanking legs with the red lead
- .4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
- Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
NPN TO-220 package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)
- Place the black lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
- Probe each of the flanking legs with the red lead
- .4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
- Probe the center leg with the red lead
- A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.
PNP TO-218 and TO-220 package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)
- Place the red lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
- Probe each of the flanking legs with the black lead
- .4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
- Probe the center leg with the black lead
- A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.
Testing an MPS-A13 transistor.
- Place the red lead of your DMM on the center leg
- Place the black probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3
- Move the black probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7
- Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.
Testing an MPS-U45 transistor (or NDS-U45 or CEN-U45 which are equivalents).
- Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you
- Place the red lead of your DMM on the center leg
- Place the black probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3
- Move the black probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7
- Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.
23.1 Testing a FET
A video showing how to test a FET can be found here
24 Testing a coil
If a drive transistor shorts, providing an unintended path to ground for power at a solenoid, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil winding gets hot enough, it will burn through the protective coating on the winding, shorting adjacently wound wires and reducing the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the failed driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged immediately after power on.
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is wise to check each coil's resistance *before* switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it! Even examining each coil in the game for burned coil wrappers may help identify a shorted coil. Another good method of examination is to ensure that the plunger can smoothly slide into the coil sleeve. If the coil sleeve and/or bobbin are melted, you know immediately.
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power winding and a hold winding. These are easily identified as they have three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.
24.1 Testing resistance
To test a coil's resistance:
- set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs.
- If the coil measures less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. Note: Some flipper coils will read less than 2 ohms but still be fine.
- Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (i.e. the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or drive transistor issue.
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before powering the game on again.
24.2 Testing for coil power
With the machine powered on:
- set your DMM to DC
- Attach the black lead to a grounding strap
- Touch the red lead to coil lug closest to the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one).
- Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20V - 75V.
- Now touch the red lead to the other coil lug.
- Again, you should read 20V - 75V. If not, then the coil winding is severed somewhere between the two lugs. Most of the time, the wire breaks where it is soldered to the coil lug.
Please note that some games incorporate a coin door interlock "safety" switch that must be closed to power the solenoids.
24.3 Testing the coil diode
If the coil wires are connected backwards on a coil that should have a diode (i.e. WMS System 11), the coil diode will blow instantly when powered on. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted), you'll probably blow the drive transistor. This can lead to a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and drive transistors.
To test a coil diode:
- Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.
- Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.
- Place the black lead on the banded side.
- Place the red lead on the non-banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.
- Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'
The reason that one leg of the diode must be cut is that your meter will read the path of least resistance, which will be the coil winding if the diode was still connected.
24.4 Testing the driver transistors
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" here for more details.
25 Basic Sound Troubleshooting
Regardless of the manufacturer, there are some simple steps to follow if no sound is present. Below are the steps from simplest to more complicated.
- Make sure the speaker is properly connected. If female crimp spade connectors are used on the wiring connecting to the speaker terminals, it is not uncommon for the connectors to come loose or even break. If the leads to the speakers are soldered onto the speaker terminals, make certain the wires are soldered well by gently tugging on the wires.
- Make sure the speaker is good. If no sound is coming out of the speaker, not even a hum when the volume pot is turned up, check to see if the speaker is not blown. For what it is worth, even a speaker with a ripped cone can put out some sound in most cases. The sound may be distorted, but it should be present. There are two ways to test a speaker. The safest way is to hook an ohmmeter up to the two speaker leads, and see if the resistance equals the impedance of the speaker. Most, if not all speakers in pinball machines are either 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The other method for testing a speaker is to hook a 9v battery up to the speaker leads. Prior to hooking up a battery, it is important to disconnect the speaker outputs on the sound board. This will isolate the speaker from the sound board completely. Once the battery is hooked up, the speaker cone should either pull in or flex out, depending on how the battery's polarity was connected to the speaker. Do not allow the battery to be connected to the speaker for very long.
- Make sure the volume potentiometer (pot) is properly connected, if one is used (newer machines like WMS WPC, Stern / Sega White Star, and stern SAM systems use digital potentiometers). If turning the volume pot up does not result in any sound, turn the pot the opposite direction. If no mechanical pot is used, skip the next step.
- Make sure the volume pot is good. Using an ohmmeter. connect the leads to the volume pot, and turn the pot back in forth. When the pot is turned completely one way, it should read close to zero ohms (full volume). When turned the opposite direction, the reading should be close to the value of what the pot's rating (pots in pinball machines roughly range from 5 kohms to 25 kohms depending on the manufacturer). Pots sometime develop "dead spots". When the pot is turned from its lowest setting (highest resistance value) to its highest setting (0 ohm resistance), the resistance value should slowly decrease. While turning the pot, if the value spikes to 0 and resumes to a higher value than 0, the pot has a dead spot. TV tuner cleaner can be used to sometimes rectify this problem. Even exercising the pot back and forth can resolve dead spots in a pinch.
- Make sure the output connections on the sound board are good. If the sound board in question has header pins on the output to the speaker / volume pot, check for cracked header joints. Short of a visual inspection with the board removed from the game, try wiggling the output connector. This does not definitely prove that there are cracked header joints, but it shows that either the headers or the harness connector is at fault. Additionally, check for bad connectors inside the speaker output housing connection. If the sound board in question uses edge finger connections, check the edge connector inside the housing of the output to the speaker. In either case, if the output harness uses an insulation displacement connector (IDC), check to make sure the wires are securely seated inside the connector of the housing.
- In some but not all instances, sound boards use a 5-legged amplifier with a heat sink attached. Sound boards with this type of amp may have cracked solder joints at the legs of the amp. If gently wiggling the amps heat sink makes sound cut in and out, suspect cracked solder joints on the legs of the amp.
Remaining issues are typically sound board specific. Please review the appropriate repair pages regarding the sound board in question.
26 Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts
Need to cover...
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)
SOIC to DIP adapters
- Blocking Diodes: Blocking diodes that are rates at a higher voltage can be used to replace blocking diodes rated for a lower voltage.
- Transistors: Transistors that are rated for higher amperage and/or voltage can usually replace lower rated transistors, so long as the polarity and package are the same. In certain situations, MOSFETs can sometimes be substituted for transistors.
- Resistors: Resistors with a higher wattage can be used to replace resistors with a lower wattage, so long as the ohm resistance rating is the same. Resistors with a tighter tolerance can usually replace resistors with a looser tolerance (ie, a component with a 1% tolerance can replace a component with a 5% tolerance).
- Capacitors: Capacitors that are used to filter voltages can usually be replaced with slightly higher capacitance (Farads). Capacitors used in timing circuits cannot generally be replaced with capacitors with a different capacitance without affecting clock/timing signals. Capacitors can usually be replaced with ones that have a higher voltage rating.
26.1 Resistor Networks
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.
- Resistor Network Representations
Bussed Resistor Network 
Isolated Resistor Network
Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, with a resistor soldered in each position (except pin 1). All of the other ends of the resistors are then soldered to pin 1 as shown at left.
27 The Switch Matrix
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required.
How a switch matrix works
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice versa).
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.
Switch Matrix Problem Resolution
The first step is to determine whether the problem is within the MPU switch matrix circuitry, or off board, in the game wiring, switches, connectors, or diodes. Individual game system switch matrix sections should help with this determination.
Once you've determined that the problem is not on the game MPU, the possibilities are few and limited. Start be testing more switches than just the suspect switch. You'll need to determine if the problem is a single switch, multiple switches in a row/column, or all switches in a row/column.
Failed single switch
If a single switch is not registering, examine the switch closely. Check that...
- The switch matrix row and column wires are securely connected along with the switch diode.
- The switch contacts are not fouled. Solid state switches should never be filed. However, not knowing the entire history of the game, there is a possibility that the switch may have been filed in the past. Ensure that the switch contacts "make" consistently.
- Test the switch diode isn't open. Use the normal diode check function on your DMM. The procedure is outlined in this section. If the diode is "open", the switch will never register.
- The switch matrix wiring hasn't been cut/broken. "Buzz" the connection from the switches column solder lug to another switch in the same column. Do the same for the switches row solder lug. If the switch matrix column or row "daisy chain" is broken, at least one switch will be inoperative. The odds are, that more than one switch will be inoperative since the break in the wiring can be anywhere in the (nominally) 8 switch row or column. However, a broken matrix wire could certainly render a single switch inoperative.
Multiple switches in a row or column inoperative, but not ALL switches in the row or column
If more than one switch in a row or column is inoperative, it's certain that the switch matrix column or row "daisy chain" has been broken. Again, use your DMM, set to continuity, to "buzz" the connection between switches on the same row/column, to ensure that the wiring hasn't been cut/broken.
All switches in a row or column are inoperative
If all switches in a row or column are inoperative, this may be a special case of the prior example. Or, the problem may be within the MPU's switch matrix circuitry (which is covered in individual game model sections). Use the same technique of "buzzing" for continuity to ensure that the row and/or column wiring hasn't been broken. Buzz from the switches row/column solder lug to the connector at the MPU and then onto the MPU to ensure that the connection is reliable. Broken wires at an IDC connector are common. Fractured solder joints on the male headers are somewhat less common, but still possible.
"Ghost" switches being reported simultaneous with other switch closures
"Ghost" switch closures not associated with failed MPU circuitry are sometimes difficult to track down. These are caused by a shorted isolation diode (on a closed switch), incorrect wiring at the switch, or switch lugs or diode leads being shorted together. For a "ghost" switch to be reported, one of the aforementioned conditions must be met AND at least two other switches must be closed. An excellent description of what happens with a shorted isolation diode and how to troubleshoot the issue can be found here.
Maladjusted switch retention blade causes switch short
Some (most) switch blade pairs are physically kept open with a retention blade, also referred to as a switch blade tensioner. The purpose of this extra blade is minimize switch "bounce". Switch stacks were manufactured with the retention blade adjacent to the short / stationary switch blade, and it is electrically shorted to that blade. If the retention blade is not adjusted correctly, and is touching the longer switch blade, the switch will be reported as closed even though the switch pair contacts are not touching.
27.1 Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation. If a diode is installed "backwards", the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur. Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch. The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal. The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal. Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.
28 Switch Matrix In Action
29 General Illumination
General Illumination is lighting that switches on (generally) when game power is turned on. Some general illumination circuits are switched on by an electromechanical relay (EM games, Williams System 11, and all eras of solid state Gottlieb games for instance). Some GI circuits are controlled by the MPU (WPC games). General illumination lamps are essentially the same as Christmas tree lights. They come on when power is applied.
Some GI sockets are very difficult to get to, like in Sega's Starship Troopers. One way to ease the job is to get at the lamps from under the playfield where possible. This requires a small modification to your game and some short wood screws. In the picture at left, the OEM staples have been removed and replaced with a standard pinball target screw. One screw is really enough since the lamp isn't going anywhere. To replace a lamp, simply remove the screw, pull the socket, replace the lamp, and reinstall. Make certain the length of the screw will not protrude through the top of the playfield. Those who prefer the look of LEDs should consider using LEDs in these tough to reach places.
30 The Lamp Matrix
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which multiplex the switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).
All EM's control lamps with relay controlled switches, or wipers on disc units.
How the lamp matrix works
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", all of those lamps will light.
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously.
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki.
A schematic of the Bally/Williams WPC lamp matrix is shown in the picture below. WPC column strobes always use yellow wires. WPC row returns always use red wires.
Advantages of the lamp matrix
- Fewer wires
- Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting
- Can use PWM to extend lamp life. Pulse Width Modulation is the technique for varying the "dwell" time that a lamp power/ground connection is established. In this way, a lamp can appear to be solidly on when in fact, power is being pulsed to it rapidly.
Lamp Matrix Problem Resolution
The first step is to determine whether the problem is with the game PCB's (MPU and/or driver board) lamp matrix circuitry, or off board, in the game wiring, lamps, connectors, or diodes. Individual game system lamp matrix sections should help with this determination.
Once you've determined that the problem is not on the game MPU, the possibilities are few and limited. Start by examining more lamps than just the suspect lamp. You'll need to determine if the problem is a single lamp, multiple lamps in a row/column, or all lamps in a row/column.
Failed single lamp
If a single lamp is not lighting, examine the lamp closely. Check that...
- The lamp matrix row and column wires are securely connected along with the lamp diode.
- The lamp socket is not corroded. Using a "cleaning stick" inside the socket works well. Some manufacturer's sockets were better than others. Early Bally solid state lamps sockets (although early Bally games didn't use a lamp matrix) were of very poor quality (don't mess with those...simply replace them).
- Test to ensure the lamp diode isn't open. Use the normal diode check function on your DMM. The procedure is outlined in this section. If the diode is "open", the lamp will never light.
- The lamp matrix wiring hasn't been cut/broken. "Buzz" the connection from the lamp's column solder lug to another lamp in the same column. Do the same for the lamp's row solder lug. If the lamp matrix column or row "daisy chain" is broken, at least one lamp will be inoperative. The odds are, that more than one lamp will be inoperative since the break in the wiring can be anywhere in the (nominally) 8 lamp row or column. However, a broken matrix wire could certainly render a single lamp inoperative.
Multiple lamps in a row or column inoperative, but not ALL lamps in the row or column
If more than one lamp in a row or column is inoperative, it's certain that the lamp matrix column or row "daisy chain" has been broken. Again, use your DMM, set to continuity, to "buzz" the connection between lamps on the same row/column, to ensure that the wiring hasn't been cut/broken.
All lamps in a row or column are inoperative
If all lamps in a row or column are inoperative, this may be a special case of the prior example. Or, the problem may be within the MPU's (or driver board's) lamp matrix circuitry (which is covered in individual game model sections). Use the same technique of "buzzing" for continuity to ensure that the row and/or column wiring hasn't been broken. Buzz from the lamps row/column solder lug to the connector at the MPU (or driver board) and then onto the MPU (or driver board) to ensure that the connection is reliable. Broken wires at an IDC connector are common. Fractured solder joints on the male headers are somewhat less common, but still possible. It is also possible on lamp matrices that use PWM for a locked on column to blow all the lamps in the column.
"Ghost" lamps lighting simultaneous with other lamp lighting
"Ghost" lamp illuminations such as a lamp in column 1 lighting at the same time as a lamp in column 2 on the same row, are almost always due to a shorted lamp matrix transistor providing power (or ground) continuously, and allowing adjacent matrix row or column lamps to light. Note that ghosting here does not refer to LED replacement lamps, which sometime light when they shouldn't in lamp matrix use that was not designed with LEDs in mind.
31 Flippers
- How does a flipper work?
- Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the coil to overheat or the fuse to blow. Note that it takes less power to hold the flipper up than it does to pull the plunger in for the initial flip due to the effect the metal plunger has on what is initially an air-core coil.
- High Voltage flipper operation
- The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.
- When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.
- The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.
- A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.
- Solid State Flipper operation
- Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.
- There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.
- Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.
- Summary of EOS switch function for various types of games
- EM: EOS switch shorts hold winding until flipper is actuated. This allows the power coil to provide full strength during the flipper movement but switch over to the lower power hold winding at the end of movement. In reality, both the power and hold coils are in series during hold operation.
- Data East: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40 ms) switch-over from 50V to 8V for hold operation. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. See Maverick game manual page 90 for theory of operation.
- Stern: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40ms) switchover to 1ms pulses every 12ms to hold the coil up. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. For a description of Stern flipper operation (from the SAM era), see Stern Batman TDK Manual Section 5 Chapter 2 Page 106
- Williams: Fliptronic board provides CPU-controlled coil drivers for the flippers. When EOS switch closes power is switched to the hold winding. Williams WPC flipper problems are discussed in the Williams_WPC#Flipper_Problems section.
31.1 Weak Flippers - What to check
There are many problems that can lead to weak flippers. Some flipper problems are unique to EM games, but there are many problems common to both EM and SS games. Problems can be either electrical or mechanical. Below is a list of items to check. General things to note are whether both flippers are weak or just one, if the flipper won't flip will it stay up if the bat is manually moved to the up position, and does the flipper bat move easily when moved by hand. The following list details problems that can cause weak flippers.
- End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch dirty.
The power winding of a flipper coil is only a few ohms of resistance so it doesn't take too much added resistance in the EOS switch to degrade the flipper power. If an EOS switch is not making contact at all the flipper will likely not flip, but will hold if you manually actuate the flipper. - Flipper switch dirty.
For EM games, flipper power is provided through the flipper switch. Added resistance of a fouled switch can weaken flippers. - Coil sleeve worn or dirty.
Cleaning the coil plunger and sleeve will improve flipper performance. Some older games had metal sleeves that should be replaced with modern nylon sleeves. Even when wear can not be seen, replacing the coil sleeve often helps. - Coil stop or plunger mushroomed.
Coils operate best when there is a flat surface between the plunger end and the coil stop. A mushroomed coil stop or plunger can cause the flipper to buzz when held up. - Flipper spring too tight.
This can also result in noisy flippers when held up. The flipper spring should be adjusted so that it can barely return the flippers to their resting postion when the playfield is up. - Flipper bushing binding.
A worn flipper bushing or a misadjusted flipper bat can result in binding that impedes flipper movement. Make sure there is a small amount of vertical play in the flipper to prevent binding. - Hogged out fiber link.
Over time the holes in the flipper links can become elongated. The play in the flipper movement results in wasted coil movement and thus reduced flipper strength. - Power issues.
Make sure you are getting full voltage at the flipper coil. Usually a power problem will cause both flippers to be weak. - Drive transistor bad (SS only)
In solid state games it is possible to have a transistor that is bad but still somewhat operational. Usually the bad transistor will get noticeably hotter than other similar transistors. - Power Winding bad.
Coil failures are rare, but check from broken solder connections and broken coil wires at the coil lugs.
32 Changing Batteries
Solid state machines have batteries to save high score and setting information when the machine is powered off. Usually these are three AA batteries mounted on the CPU board. They should be changed annually to prevent leakage that will damage the CPU board.
Batteries can be changed with the machine powered on so that settings are maintained. Some people recommend changing one battery at a time, but this is only to help ensure that the new batteries are installed with the correct polarity.
The best thing you can do for your game is to install a remote battery holder, which moves the batteries completely off of the CPU board. See the specific game system section for instructions to perform this simple modification.
When installing a remote battery holder, make sure that the wires leading to it are long enough for the holder to lay comfortably below all circuit boards. This is important for two reasons. First, should the batteries ever leak, they won't be able to "drip" onto the circuit board. Second, the battery holder won't be subjected to heat, as shown in the picture at left.
33 Abating Alkaline Corrosion
Leaky alkaline batteries are the number one killer of pinball MPU boards. Although this corrosion is often called "acid damage", there are no batteries used in pinball machines that are acid based. All batteries are either alkaline or lithium based. Lithium batteries are not thought to leak with quite the frequency of alkaline batteries, but the best rule of thumb is "all batteries leak".
The best options for avoiding alkaline corrosion damage to expensive or impossible to replace MPU boards are:
- Remotely locate the batteries
- Use a lithium battery instead of alkaline batteries
- Use a "SuperCap" capacitor (1uf, 5.5V) that charges while the game is on and powers CMOS RAM between power on cycles
- Replace the static RAM on the board with an non-volative RAM (NVRAM)
Abating alkaline damage is quite a bit of work. The steps are:
- Assess the extent of the corrosion to judge economical viability of repair. Some boards are so corroded that they are simply impossible to repair or the cost of the repair would exceed the cost of sourcing a new board.
- Carefully examine the board, identifying all damaged parts and traces. Darkened traces are alkaline corrosion that has intruded under the solder mask.
- Remove all corroded parts. If lucky, the solder side of the board won't be corroded. Corrosion changes the solder in such a way that it can't be heated effectively to remove the part. It is sometimes easier to clip the parts from the board and then heat each lead individually to remove them.
- It's sometimes easier to remove more parts than just the corroded ones so that a larger or more convenient area can be prepared for sanding.
- Using sandpaper (200 to 440 grit, YMMV) carefully sand all corrosion from the board. The traces must be left bright and shiny. This is delicate work. Be careful to not sand completely through the traces. The point where traces connect to IC through holes is particularly delicate. Sometimes, a trace is so far gone that there is no way to preserve it while removing corrosion. In this case, the trace will need to be rebuilt with trace wire. Use your DMM to "buzz" affected traces to ensure good continuity remains. It is possible to use a pad sander or even a flap sander on a Dremel tool (only recommended for old, big trace boards like classic Bally/Stern MPUs), with fine grit sandpaper to speed this process. Other abrasives to consider are "lamp socket cleaner sticks" (essentially an abrasive crayon) and fiber glass pencils.
- Suck solder from all damaged "vias". A via passes an electrical signal from one side of the board to the other. Leaving corrosion in a via provides a source for corrosion to get started again.
- Using a mixture of white vinegar and water (50/50), wash the affected area of the board. It's best to limit exposure of the vinegar/water to the smallest area of the board possible as this mixture has it's own corrosive properties. Rinse ALL of the vinegar/water from the board with isopropyl alcohol or a LOT of water. Every bit of the vinegar/water must be washed from the board. Vinegar is used because it's an acid. We use acid to chemically inert the alkaline, as you'll remember from your high school chemistry class (ahem...).
- Either "tin" every bit of bare copper by melting solder on the trace and sucking it off, or use a "solder through" conformal coating to seal the copper. If using a conformal coating, be careful to not spray header pins or inside of sockets. Unless the newly cleaned traces are protected via one of these methods, the copper will begin to oxidize fairly rapidly.
- Use sockets when replacing integrated circuits.
- Install new parts as necesssary.
34 Coil Chart
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.
35 Lamp Chart
| Lamp | Voltage (V) | Current(A) | Candle Power | Life (hours) | Base | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 44 | 6.3 | 0.25 | 0.9 | 3,000 | Miniature Bayonet (BA9) | Common GI and controlled lamp bulb |
| 47 | 6.3 | 0.15 | 0.5 | 3,000 | Miniature Bayonet (BA9) | A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power |
| 55 | 7.0 | .41 | 2.00 | 500 | Miniature Bayonet (BA9) | Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47 Not a good replacement in pop bumpers or behind backglasses (too much heat generated) |
| 63 | 7.0 | .63 | 3.0 | 1,000 | S.C. Bayonet (BA15s) | Used in early Williams solid state games like Flash. Found in Williams games as late as High Speed; typically installed in series |
| 67 | 13.5 | .59 | 4.0 | 5,000 | S.C. Bayonet (BA15s) | Exclusively used as flash lamps on Gottlieb (Premier) games |
| 73 | 14.0 | .80 | .30 | 15,000 | Wedge (T 1-3/4) | A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism |
| 86 | 6.3 | .20 | .40 | 20,000 | Wedge (T 1-3/4) | Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism;Gottlieb Victory ramp chaser lamps |
| 89 | 13.0 | .58 | 6.00 | 750 | S.C. Bayonet (BA15s) | Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC |
| 159 | 6.3 | .15 | .34 | 5000 | Wedge | A low-power version of the #555; reduced heat and candle power |
| 194 | 14.0 | .27 | 2.00 | 1,500 | Wedge | Whitewater Topper Lamps Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (instrument panel / dash lamps) |
| 199 | 12.8 | 2.25 | 32.00 | 1500 | S.C. Bayonet (BA15s) | Alternate for 1156 lamp |
| 313 | 28 | 0.17 | 3.5 | 500 | Miniature Bayonet (BA9) | Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House |
| 447 | 6.3 | 0.15 | 0.5 | 3,000 | Wedge | A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power |
| 455 | 6.5 | 0.5 | N/A | 500 | Miniature Bayonet (BA9) | Blinker |
| 545 | 6.5 | 0.31 | N/A | 500 | Wedge | Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers |
| 555 | 6.3 | 0.25 | 0.9 | 3,000 | Wedge | Common GI and controlled lamp bulb |
| 906 | 13.0 | .69 | 6.00 | 1000 | T-5 Wedge | Flash Lamp |
| 1156 | 12.8 | 2.1 | 32.00 | 1,200 | S.C. Bayonet (BA15s) | High Speed II beacon lamp and Creature from the Black Lagoon hologram projection lamp Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (reverse and front turn signal lamp in some vehicles) |
| 1251 | 28.0 | .23 | 3.00 | 2,000 | S.C. Bayonet (BA15s) | Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps |
| 1683 | 28.0 | 1.02 | 32.00 | 500 | S.C. Bayonet (BA15s) | High Speed, F-14 Tomcat, and Rescue 911 beacon lamps; Fire! flame tube projection lamp |
| 1847 | 6.3 | .15 | .38 | 5,000 | Miniature Bayonet (BA9) | Dimmer, longer lasting version of 47 bulb; for areas where vibration is a factor (pop bumpers, etc.) |
Notes:
- A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.
- 47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.
- 447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.
- Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)
- T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at Interlight Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.
36 Lamp Sockets
Some later games have illuminated buttons for start and possibly other functions. These are typically located on the front of the cabinet. Instructions on replacing the lamp in those switches can be found here.
37 Fuse Table
| Qty | Bally EM | Qty | Gottlieb EM | Qty | Williams EM | |||
| 2 | 5A | BR, DC coils | 2 | 2A SB | Drop target bank | 6 | 10A | Main, BR, coils |
| 2 | 8A | Main line fuse | 2 | 5A SB | Main line fuse | 6 | 15A | Lamps, coils |
| 4 | 10A | Coils | 4 | 10A | Lamps | |||
| 4 | 15A | Lamps | 4 | 15A | Coils | |||
| Qty | Atari | Qty | Bally/Stern (1977-1984) | Qty | Gottlieb Solid-State | |||
| 2 | 1A SB | Power supply | 3 | 1A SB | Coils-under PF | 2 | 1/4A SB | Displays |
| 1 | 2A SB | Service outlet | 1 | 3A SB | Main line power | 1 | 1A SB | Coils, Drop target bank |
| 1 | 5A SB | Main power | 1 | 3/16A | High Voltage on SDB | 2 | 2A SB | Pop bumpers (Sys80/80A/80B), Drop target bank |
| 2 | 7A SB | Power supply | 1 | 3/4A | Display power supply | 4 | 5A SB | Main, coils, lamps |
| 2 | 10A SB | Power supply | 1 | 4A | 12v/5v power supply | 2 | 8A | Lamps |
| 4 | 15A SB | PS, lamps, displays | 3 | 5A | Coils | 1 | 10A | Lamps |
| 2 | 15A | General Illumination | ||||||
| 1 | 20A | Switched Lamps | ||||||
| Qty | Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984) | Qty | Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990) | Qty | Williams WPC (1990-1994) | |||
| 1 | 1/4A SB | Display high voltage | 1 | 1/4A SB | Power supply (displays) | 1 | 3/8A SB | Display driver board |
| 3 | 2-1/2A SB | Coils | 5 | 2A SB | Aux board | 4 | 3A SB | Coils, flippers |
| 2 | 4A SB | Sound board | 2 | 2-1/2A SB | Coils | 3 | 5A SB | Power supply, lamps |
| 2 | 7A SB | 5v power (L7 games) | 2 | 4A SB | Coils, flippers | 1 | 7A SB | Power supply |
| 2 | 8A | Main, switched lamps | 6 | 5A SB | Flpr, aux, cab, lamps | 1 | 3/4A SB | 12v power supply |
| 2 | 20A | General illumination | 2 | 7A SB | Power supply | 2 | 8A | Main, switched lamps |
| 2 | 1/10A | Cabinet, displays | ||||||
| 1 | 3/4A | 12v power supply | ||||||
| 2 | 8A | Main, switched lamps | ||||||
| Qty | Data East | Qty | Sega & New Stern | Qty | Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999) | |||
| 3 | 3A SB | Coils, flippers | 1 | 3/4A SB | Display | 2 | T0.315A SB | Display |
| 2 | 4A SB | Coils | 4 | 3A SB | Coils, flippers | 1 | T0.63A SB | 12v PS F101 |
| 4 | 5A SB | Lamps, power supply | 1 | 4A SB | Power supply | 5 | T4.0A SB | Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln |
| 2 | 7A SB | Power supply | 4 | 5A SB | Coils, lamps | 1 | T5.0A SB | Switched lamps, line |
| 1 | 8A SB | Line, power supply | 1 | 7A SB | Coils | 1 | T6.3A SB | Coils main F108 |
| 1 | 8A SB | Power line, lamps | 2 | T2.5A SB | Audio F501, F502 | |||
38 Resistors
Resistors typically have a standard color coding scheme, (the exceptions are some power resistors which have the value and wattage inked on the resistor), which is used to identify the resistor's value and tolerance. The resistor's value and tolerance can be identified on this website by clicking the appropriate color bands.
Generally when replacing resistors you should match the original's tolerance. You can go down (tighter) in tolerance and up in wattage slightly without any difficulties (excepting physical size limitations). In some applications an increase in wattage is recommended (some display and driver boards).
A resistor can be tested in circuit, but depending on the circuit, an accurate reading may not be measured. Just be aware of this characteristic and don't assume that a wildly off reading means the component is bad. Remove one lead of the resistor from the circuit to get an accurate reading in this case.
39 Capacitors
There are a handful of different types of capacitors. In this case, the discussion is focused on the cylindrical electrolytic capacitors. Electrolytic capacitors are filled with an electrolyte material, which can dry out over time, leading to the capacitor to lose capacitance and cause various problems within a game.
When replacing old capacitors, be sure to pay attention to the polarity, if the capacitors are polarized (most are, but not all - see bipolar capacitors). Most capacitors are labeled in some way, usually with an arrow down the side of the capacitor pointing to one of the terminals. Likewise, electrolytic capacitors have a concave ring near one of the ends. Do not depend upon that ring to indicate polarity--just ignore it. Most of the time, the ring is on the positive side of the capacitor.
39.1 Testing Capacitors
To test aged capacitors (or newly purchased capacitors to make sure they're not fake), there are testers that test a capacitor's capacitance. A Peak Atlas ESR70 is one such tester that isn't too expensive and is available from a variety of resellers.
39.2 Buying Capacitors
Make sure to buy capacitors from reputable resellers. Some cheap, disreputable, and/or overseas retailers can sometimes sell counterfeit capacitors, such as these:
This capacitor actually has two smaller/cheaper capacitors stacked inside of it. The giveaway is the presence of two concave rings--legitimate polarized capacitors only have one concave ring.
This large filter capacitor actually has a much lower-rated capacitor hidden inside of the larger casing. The only way to check for this is to use a capacitor tester.
Sometimes, fake capacitors have labels that look like well-known brands at first glance that go so far as to use a similar font or logo, but are slightly misspelled. In this example, Rubycon is a well-known brand, but instead, this capacitor has "Rulycon" on the label. The misspelling indicates that it is a fake.
40 Game Software (ROMs)
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features. These home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case, it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many pinball parts suppliers.
Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. DO NOT depend on the labels on the replacement roms "matching" a direction on your machine! ALWAYS check the orientation based on the notches. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on Funhouse for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement.
Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.
Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.
41 Counterfeit Integrated Circuits & Blacktopped Parts
As time passes, the need for through hole integrated circuits (IC chips) in current manufacturing decreases. Most consumable electronics today are using surface mount ICs. However, through hole ICs are what nearly 90% of all solid state pinball machines use on circuit boards. And as the need decreases, the price increases. Enter the counterfeiters. It may sound absurd, but there is a whole "underground" industry of counterfeit IC chips being created. How are they typically counterfeited? Old ICs are sourced, the top of the chip is either sanded or painted over with the correct identifiers as to what chip it is, and a new identifier is inked over. Some counterfeit chips are fairly obvious (see the pic to the left to view two sanded IC tops), while others are not so obvious.
The moral to this is know who you are buying from. Avoid buying components from sellers who offer product at "too good to be true" prices. Some of these types of sellers peddle their product on eBay, and originate from the Far East. Keep in mind that even trusted sellers are not totally immune from counterfeit chips, but the really good sellers have a better grasp on reducing the sales of counterfeit chips from their inventory.
TO-3 form factor devices have gone or are soon going out of production. A great number of those on the market today are counterfiet. They may "diode test" correctly and may even work as long as the current draw remains low. However, they will not work for pinball machine needs and will quickly fail.
One good way to identify a counterfeit part is to apply acetone (finger nail polish remover) to the inked label on the part. The label will smear easily if the part is counterfeit. The label will be unphased if it is not counterfeit.
- Real vs Counterfeit TO-3 parts, decapped.
Note the dual and beefier "bonding wires" used in a real LM323K. Image courtesy of PinSider Tuukka 
This counterfeit part was marked LM323K. It is clearly a fake/mismarked part. Note the single/small "bonding wires". Image courtesy of PinSider Tuukka 
Here is a counterfeit LM338. It is clearly a fake/mismarked part. Note the mess of "bonding wires". Image courtesy of PinSider Inkochnito
42 Tumbling Parts to Clean Them
A quick way to shine a lot of metal parts is to use a "parts tumbler". (Technically, what is referred to in this section is a Vibrating Polisher - the name comes from a rock tumbler polisher, which can also be used but takes much longer.) Tumblers can typically be purchased at Bass Pro Shops as shooting enthusiasts use them to polish brass cartridges. One of the "old standards" is the model 400 made by Berry's Manufacturing. Crushed walnut shell media works well. It can be acquired at pet stores where it is sold as lizard bedding. For gentle less aggressive tumbling, use corn cob media. Additives such as "Flitz" or even a squirt of Novus 3 have been used to improve results. KIT Scratch Out also works very well for this application.
Tumbling approaches the point of diminishing returns after about 24 hours. Tumbling past 24 hours doesn't yield much improvement.
To remove the walnut shell media from flat-blade screws, a dental pick works well.
To remove the media from Gottlieb "Speed Nuts" or Acorn Nuts, shake them inside a plastic container. The media falls right out.
43 How to Properly File Switch Contacts
- First off, if the switch is in a solid state machine and is not a high power switch (flippers and some pop bumpers), DO NOT file it. It's a gold plated switch, and you will ruin the switch contact by filing it. Don't look at the existing switch and assume that because you see it's gray, that it's a high power switch.
- Instead, pinch the switch contacts together and run an index card or dollar bill between the contacts a few times.
44 Tuning a Game for Best Performance
44.1 General
- Check the tightness of all under playfield mechanisms. It's not uncommon for mechanisms (even with lock nuts) to loosen up over time. Do not overtighten and strip out any holes, just snug them in. If you find any loose holes, repair with glue and toothpicks. Once everything is tight again, mechanism action will be crisper. Do not assume that the mechanism was originally installed perfectly - slight alignment tweaks can improve action.
44.2 Leveling the Game
- One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers tight against the bottom of the leg.
44.3 Adjusting the Game Pitch
- The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster, but too much and it will be hard to shoot ramps. A shallow pitch slows the game down, and the ball will be more likely to move side-to-side. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts.
- Due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. For a Williams game, the manufacturer recommends getting the nose of the bubble between the first and second mark. The marks represent one-half degree. For Stern, Data East, and Sega games, the bubble should be between the lines.
- When a recommended pitch is not indicated, the "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for solid state games. Use an inclinometer on the playfield itself to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the lock nuts on the levelers.
- Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.
- A pinball game should also be level side to side. Measure on the playfield, not on the glass.
44.4 Balls
- Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.
- The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.
44.5 Adjusting flippers
- Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.
- High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. Do not file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.
- The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.
- The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.
- Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.
44.6 Adjusting drop targets
- Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well). Take caution in cleaning the drop target face. If a face is stamped with artwork, most chemicals (even mild ones) will remove the artwork.
- Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.
44.6.1 Williams
- Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. (Replacement boards are available from Siegecraft) The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.
- When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.
- Later Williams' drop banks went to a two-spring design, one to pull the target down, and one coil spring to push the target forward on reset. This design started sometime around the Big Guns era. There's not a lot of adjustment needed in this type of target other than to clean them very well, and to ensure that the rubber grommets and the washer/screw combination are not too tight. They should be tightened just enough so the target will reset properly, but not so much that the target drops slowly. The weak points of this design are the ledge the drop targets rest on, and the studs used to hold the drop target reset coil stop. Originally, a small strip of tempered, spring steel was used for the ledge. This piece of spring steel was riveted to the drop target assy. frame. If it cracks or breaks, a single target or targets in the bank will not properly reset, as there is no ledge for them to rest in the up position. Williams realized this issue, and later versions of this type of drop target assy., somewhere around Earthshaker, were made with a replaceable ledge. Likewise, the coil stops were mounted with studs integrated into the drop target frame assy. These studs can snap off flush with the frame, allowing only one side or neither to hold the coil stop in place.
44.6.2 Gottlieb
- Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their original design. There are 2 discrete springs used; one to pull the drops in the proper direction to reset correctly, and another to provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.
- The 2-spring Gottlieb design changed during the system 80B era. This design change moved the reset coil from the outside of the drop target assy. to the underside, center of the assy. on small and single banks. Multiple reset coils were still used on banks larger than 4 targets. The benefit of the new design was less moving parts and a slightly smaller mounting footprint. However, the newer design eliminated the two spring design, and the smooth even stroke for the reset. While the targets still drop down smartly, on reset occasionally they will reset too high, or some targets will fail to reset, if the reset coil is not adjusted properly. Well beyond the time of the initial design change, some System 3 games use a combination of the old and new style drop target assys.
44.6.3 Bally
- Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.
- For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place. Be sure any added shims don't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.
- The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.
- The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chiclet" style for over 25 years.
44.6.4 Stern (Classic)
- Classic Stern drops, commonly referred to as "chiclets", were originally similar to the Bally "tombstone" style, and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). During the production run of Meteor the top six bank drop style changed from the chiclet style to the flattop style. All subsequent games after Meteor used the flattop style. All previous games used the chiclet style.
- Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the playfield, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.
- The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.
44.7 Tweaking a pop bumper
- Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat, then add a slight crown to one of the contacts. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with Brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.
- Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.
- Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.
- Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.
- A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.
- For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.
44.8 Tuning a spinner
- Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.
- First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 2000 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.
- Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.
- Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.
- Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.
- A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.
44.9 Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms
- Most would ask why you would want to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.
- Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.
- The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.
- The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).
- Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.
- Shaking a pinball is a part of the game, and possibly a greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.
- Another trick is to ensure the playfield is attached solidly in some way to the cabinet. Older games have a metal clamping bracket in the cabinet to lock down the playfield, allowing better nudging action. Some older games use screws to attach the playfield to the cabinet. Metal hanger brackets used on newer machines take some of the nudging force away by allowing the playfield's suspension to absorb some of the force. A piece of cardboard folded and wedged at the playfield apron will help remove this factor and allowing more subtle shaking of the machine. This in turn will allow a tighter tilt if desired since the playfield will react to smaller nudges versus stock.
44.10 Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches
- Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).
- Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.
- Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.
- The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.
- If doing a full teardown of a machine consider replacing all the switches with new. Although very uncommon, it is possible for metal fatigued switches to lose their tension and simply not work correctly. You could even replace the switch and wireform with a new microswitch part although you would lose any tension tuning capability if you do so.
44.11 Tweaking lane guides
- Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.
- The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.
- The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.
- Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size smaller than needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly. Be careful removing these as they tend to rip up the top ply of the playfield surface. Use something around the wire to prevent tearing.
- The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.
- Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.
- Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or has its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.
44.12 Rubber? I hardly knew her!
- There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.
- Recently urethane rubbers have been developed and released that offer a slightly different feel, somewhere in the middle of the hard/soft varieties. This type of rubber was designed to be very long lasting. The variety of rubber types currently available will allow you as the arbiter of play to tune your machine to your liking.
- Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.
44.13 Plungers
- Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.
- The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vise to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.
- There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.
- Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a weak spring to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.
44.14 Coil Sleeves
- Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.
- To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid. If a coil plunger is particularly mushroomed, replace it.
44.15 Connectors and Soldering
- Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems. A steel or brass wire bottle brush of the appropriate size works well to clean Jones plugs, and you can get a very fine nylon bottle brush to clean the female connectors. Don't use a metal brush to clean the female side unless you're sure to find and clean up any broken brush strands.
- Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Make sure any wire management straps are being used to support the weight of the harness going into the cabinet instead of depending on the header pin to support all that weight. Resoldering the header pins will fix the cracking and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.
- If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.
44.16 Slingshots
- Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.
- Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back. Replace the sling switches with new switches or replace just the blade if they have been bent and mangled from incorrect adjustments. It's easier but more expensive to replace the entire switch vs. getting the blade parts (blade parts alone are <$1.00, new switches anywhere from $2.75-$6.00 depending on bracket installed/not and vendor).
- The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.
- Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is threefold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling). Thirdly, they prevent a ball from working its way under the rubber and getting trapped in the triangle under the sling plastic.
- It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. Grasp the actuator arm and rock it slightly at a right angle to its normal activation arc to check for wear. You will usually see some lateral slop in a sling mechanism; if it's excessive power will be lost on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or use a small nylon washer to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.
- Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).
44.17 Standup/stationary Targets
- Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.
- Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent so the target leans backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.
- Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is breached or gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes. Inspect the switch blades that make up the target and straighten out or replace any that are mangled.
44.18 Ramps
- Clean ramps really well to promote fast ball action. Dirt will accumulate on the ramp surfaces and eventually cause "ball trails" to appear. Ramp flaps at the junction of the ramp to the playfield should be adjusted so that as gentle an angle as possible between the ramp and the playfield is attained. Torquing down the ramp flap creates a "ski jump" type effect, robbing power and momentum from the ball. Often this angle is enough to prevent a ramp from being able to be made consistently and smoothly.
- Ramps that have a switch bracket near the beginning of the ramp may need some tweaking with washers (spacers) to present the least resistance to the ball traveling under them. Often you can tell a ramp is too tight to the playfield when the ball actually strikes the switch bracket after jumping off the ski-lift-like ramp flap. The goal in tweaking a ramp is to present the least amount of resistance to ball flow as possible.
- TOURNAMENT TIP: The difficulty of a machine can be easily adjusted by adding/removing various types of sizes of rubber rings, posts, or sleeves from ramp entrances. For example, a popular and safe tournament strategy for Earthshaker! is to continuously shoot the center ramp shot until 99 miles are achieved, then continue shooting for 200k a ramp. This is a very safe shot that returns to the flipper to allow another shot. There is a yellow post sleeve to the left of the ramp entrance; changing this sleeve to a thicker, wider rubber will make the center shot tighter, requiring more skill to employ this previously-safe strategy. The thicker rubber will add risk and randomness to the formerly safe shot.
45 Common Flipper Problems
A list of common flipper issues, and corrections, can be found here
46 Shipping
46.1 Shipping Backglasses
46.2 Shipping Playfields
46.2.1 Self-packed method
- Put pool noodles / pipe insulation around all the edges of the playfield.
- Shrink wrap the playfield
- Get 1" thick foam board insulation, cut it to size (leave a 1" gap around all sides), and sandwich the playfield.
- Pack some newspaper around the edges of the playfield and start shrink wrapping the foam board around the playfield. Stuff the edges with padding as you go.
- Put duct tape around the corners to help reinforce them.
- As a good measure, wrap two layers of bubble wrap around the whole thing.
- Get some large moving boxes or large flat corrigated cardboard. Wrap up the package, and make liberal use of packing tape. Or, find a bicycle shop and see if they have any bike boxes available.
- Reinforce the corners with duct tape.
That will probably be about $35-$45 to ship. Packing materials will be around $15-$20, plus $20 for a roll of 80 gauge shrink wrap (if you don't already have some).
46.2.2 Shipper-packed method
- Put pool noodles / pipe insulation around all the edges of the playfield.
- Shrink wrap the playfield
- Take the wrapped playfield to UPS/FedEx, etc for packing. They will wrap the playfield in multiple layers of bubble wrap, stuff the playfield in a giant box, and fill it with brown paper.
This option may cost around $60-$100. It's less effort than the self-packing method, however, there is a higher chance of damage without the foam board insulation protecting the playfield.
47 Glass Sizes
Note that the measurements below were compiled from various lists and individuals who provided measurements of pieces of glass from their games, so they might not be 100% accurate. All possible efforts have been made to try to ensure that the correct measurements have been posted. If it is discovered that a measurement is incorrect or if a new entry needs to be added, please correct/add it below or post in the glass size thread on pinside
47.1 Playfield Glass Sizes
47.1.1 EM
| Manufacturer | System | Game Style | Glass Dimensions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bally | 1970s | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | Games that used a canopy around the glass had a smaller glass |
| Bally | Late 1960s-Early 1970s | Standard | 21" x 41-1/2" x 3/16" | Games that use a metal canopy frame |
| Chicago Coin | Standard | ? | ||
| Gottlieb | 1970s | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | |
| Williams | Late 1940s-1950s | Standard | 21" x 41" x 3/16" | Early flipper games |
| Williams | 1960-1961 (with front shelf) | Standard | 21-3/4" x 43" x 3/16" | Games with a shelf on the front of the cabinet where slightly wider than most standard body games: Black Jack, Bo Bo, Caravelle, Darts, Highways, Hollywood, Jungle, Magic Clock, Music Man, Viking |
| Williams | 1970s | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" |
47.1.1.1 Exceptions
| Manufacturer | Title | Game Style | Glass Dimensions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chicago Coin | Thing | Pinball | 21-3/16" x 50" x 3/16" | |
| Chicago Coin | Play Ball | Pinball | Possibly same size as Thing | Has artwork inked on underside of glass |
| Williams | Upper Deck | Pitch 'N Bat | 23" x 38-13/16" x 3/16" |
47.1.2 Early Solid State
| Manufacturer | System | Game Style | Glass Dimensions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Allied Leisure | Gen1, Gen2 | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | |
| Atari | Gen1, Gen2 | Widebody | 27-3/4" x 45-1/2" x 3/16" | See Exceptions |
| Bally | -17, -35, -133, 6803 | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | See Exceptions |
| Bally | -35 | Widebody | 27-1/2" x 43" x 3/16" | Embryon, Future Spa, Hotdoggin', Paragon, Space Invaders |
| Game Plan | MPU-2 | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | |
| Gottlieb | System 1 | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | |
| Gottlieb | System 1 | Ultra Widebody | 27-5/8" x 48-7/16" x 3/16" | Genie, Roller Disco |
| Gottlieb | System 80, 80A | Widebody | 24-5/8" x 48-3/8" x 3/16" | Black Hole, Counterforce, Eclipse, Force II, Haunted House, James Bond 007, Panthera, Pink Panther, Spider-Man, Time Line, Volcano, Devil's Dare, Punk!, Q*Bert's Quest, Striker |
| Gottlieb | System 80 | Ultra Widebody | 27-5/8" x 48-3/8" x 3/16" | Circus, Star Race |
| Gottlieb | System 80A, 80B | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | |
| Stern | MPU-100, MPU-200 | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | |
| Stern | MPU-200 | Widebody | 24-9/16" x 45-3/4" x 3/16" | Big Game, Cheetah, Flight 2000, Freefall, Iron Madien, Split Second, Viper. Also: see exceptions. |
| Williams | System 3-11 | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | |
| Williams | System 3-11 | Widebody | 27-5/8" x 43" x 3/16" | Algar, Contact, Laser Ball, Pokerino, Scorpion, Stellar Wars |
| Zaccaria | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" |
47.1.2.1 Exceptions
| Manufacturer | Title | Game System | Game Style | Glass Dimensions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alvin G | USA Football, A.G. Football, A.G. Soccer-Ball, Dinosaur Eggs | Head-to-Head | 21" x 53-1/8" x 3/16" | ||
| Atari | Hercules | Gen2 | 39-3/8" x 74-1/8" x 1/4" | ||
| Bally | Baby Pacman | -133 | Hybrid | 21" x 16-1/8" x 3/16" | |
| Bally | Granny and the Gators | -133 | Hybrid | 20-15/16" x 24-5/16" x 3/16" | |
| Bally | Escape From The Lost World | 6803 | Standard | (Same as Standard) | The playfield glass has artwork screen printed directly onto the glass. |
| Bally | Rapid Fire | -35 | Standard | 21" x 37" x 3/16" | |
| Gottlieb | Caveman | System 80A | Widebody | 24-5/8" x 43-1/8" x 3/16" | This glass is shorter because of the large control panel over top of the apron. |
| Stern | Orbitor 1 | MPU-200 | Widebody | 24-5/8" x 45-3/4" x 3/16" | |
| Williams | Hyperball | System 7 | Standard | 21" x 37" x 3/16" | |
| Williams | Joust | System 7 | Head-to-Head | 25-1/2" x 42-1/2" x 3/16" |
47.1.3 Modern
| Manufacturer | System | Game Style | Glass Dimensions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alvin G | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | ||
| Capcom | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | ||
| Data East | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | ||
| Data East | Widebody | 23-3/4" x 43" x 3/16" | Guns 'N Roses, WWF Royal Rumble. Note: measurements were incorrect in original manuals, but corrected in service bulletin 99. | |
| Gottlieb | System 3 | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | |
| Jersey Jack Pinball | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | Dialed In, Willy Wonka | |
| Jersey Jack Pinball | Widebody | 23-3/4" x 43" x 3/16" | Wizard of Oz, The Hobbit, Pirates of the Caribbean | |
| Sega/Stern | Whitestar, SAM | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | |
| Sega | Whitestar | Widebody | 23-3/4" x 43" x 3/16" | Batman Forever; Same size as Williams WPC SuperPin |
| Stern | Spike | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | |
| Williams | WPC | Standard | 21" x 43" x 3/16" | See Exceptions |
| Bally/Williams | WPC | SuperPin | 23-3/4" x 43" x 3/16" | Demolition Man, Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure, Popeye Saves the Earth, Red & Ted's Road Show, Star Trek: The Next Generation, Twilight Zone |
| Williams | Pin2000 | Pin2000 | 20.50" x 43"?/41.5"? x ? | Special half-mirrored glass |
47.1.3.1 Exceptions
| Manufacturer | Title | Game System | Game Style | Glass Dimensions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gottlieb | Super Mario Bros. Mushroom World | System 3 | Mini | 21" x 32" x 3/16" | |
| Williams | Banzai Run | System 11 | Two glasses | ||
| Williams | Safe Cracker | WPC-95 | Standard | 18.5" x 36-1/2" x 3/16" | |
| Williams | Slugfest | WPC | Pitch & Bat | 23" x 35-1/4" x 3/16" | |
| Williams | Ticket Tack Toe | WPC-95 | Standard | 18-1/2" x 36-1/2" x 3/16" | |
| Williams | Varkon | System 7 | Arcade Cabinet | 24-7/16" x 21" x 3/16" |
47.2 Backglass Sizes
Backglass sizes for translites
| Manufacturer | System | Game Style | Glass Dimensions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bally | 6803 | Standard | 26-1/4" x 24-5/8" x 1/8" | Games such as City Slicker, Escape from the Lost World. Note: the original artwork was a printed backglass on some titles. Additionally, reproduction translites were produced for some of these titles, such as Strange Science. |
| Bally | 6803 | Standard | 27" x 23-1/2" x 1/8" | Atlantis, Truck Stop (both games have speaker bar on the top of the backbox) |
| Bally | System 11 | Standard | 27" x 23-1/2" x 1/8" | Games with the Bally logo and speakers at the top of the backbox. The Bally Game Show, Bugs Bunny's Birthday Ball, Dr. Dude, Elvira and the Party Monsters, Pool Sharks, Mousin Around, Radical, Transporter the Rescue |
| Capcom | Standard | 26" x 19-5/8" x 1/8" | Note: Needs to be verified. | |
| Data East | Standard | 26" x 23" x 1/8" | Games with a 128x16 DMD. Part Number: 660-5012-00. Checkpoint, Star Trek 25th Anniversary, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, Hook | |
| Data East | Standard | 26" x 22-1/2" x 1/8" | Games with a 128x32 DMD. Part Number: 660-5008-00. Lethal Weapon 3, Star Wars, Jurassic Park, Last Action Hero, Tales from the Crypt, Tommy. | |
| Data East | Standard | 26-1/2" x 19-3/4" x 1/8" | Games with a 192x64 DMD. Part Number: 660-5018-00. Maverick. NOTE: This measurement needs to be confirmed. | |
| Data East | Widebody | 26" x 20-3/8" x 1/8" | Part Number: 660-5017-00. Guns 'N Roses. NOTE: This measurement needs to be confirmed. | |
| Data East | Widebody | 26" x 22-1/2" x 1/8" | Part Number: 660-5008-00. WWF Royal Rumble. NOTE: This measurement needs to be confirmed. | |
| Gottlieb | System 80B | Standard w/ Speaker Panel | 25" x 20" x 1/8" | Side Trim - # 24990 Top Trim - # 24991 Lift Trim - # 24964 |
| Gottlieb | System 80B | Standard w/ Metal Speaker Grill above Translite | 24" x 25" x 1/8" (assumed) | Please verify - games like Bad Girls, Big House, Hot Shots, Bone Busters, etc. |
| Gottlieb | System 80B | Standard w/ Score Displays Above Translite | 25" x 20" x 1/8" | Games including Diamond Lady, TX-Sector, and Robo-War |
| Gottlieb | System 3 (Alphanumeric) | Standard | 24" x 25" x 1/8" | Games like Lights Camera Action!, Title Fight, Silver Slugger, Surf N' Safari, etc. Side Trim - # 26086 Top Trim - # 24991 Lift Trim - # 24964 |
| Gottlieb | System 3 (Dot Matrix) | Standard | 25" x 20" x 1/8" | |
| Sega | DataEast/Sega Version 3b & Whitestar | Standard/Widebody | 26-1/2" x 19-3/4" x 1/8" | Games using the 192x64 DMD. Part Number: 660-5018-00. Apollo 13, Batman Forever, Baywatch, Frankenstein, Goldeneye |
| Sega | Whitestar | Standard | 26" x 22-1/2" x 1/8" | Part Number: 660-5008-00. Independence Day, Twister. |
| Sega | Whitestar | Curved/Convex | ? | Convex/curved lexan front and back showcase set: Part #545-5743-00 & #545-5753-00. The Lost World Jurassic Park, Space Jam, Star Wars Trilogy, Starship Troopers, Viper Night Drivin', X-Files |
| Sega | Whitestar | Standard | 25.906" x 19.187" x 1/8" | (Note: games that followed the curved displays have a different style backbox and the measurement is not in fractional inches). Part Number: 660-5038-02. Godzilla, Golden Cue, Lost in Space, South Park. NOTE: This measurement needs to be confirmed. |
| Sega | Whitestar | Standard | 26" x 19-1/4" x 1/8" | (Note: the games that followed the curved displays and were transition games into Stern have a different style backbox and the measurement may be different than the games preceding the curved displays; Harley Davidson is unverified). Harley Davidson |
| Stern | Whitestar | Standard | 26" x 19-1/4" x 1/8" | Part Number: 660-5038-02. Austin Powers, Avatar, Avatar Limited Edition, Batman, Big Buck Hunter, Csi, Dale Jr, Elvis, Family Guy, Game Of Thrones Limited Edition, Game Of Thrones Premium, Game Of Thrones Pro, Grand Prix, Harley Davidson 3rd Edition, Indiana Jones, Iron Man, Iron Man Pro, Kiss Pro, Lord Of The Rings, Nascar, NBA, NFL, Pirates Of The Caribbean, Ripley's Believe It Or Not, Roller Coaster Tycoon, Sharkey's Shootout, Shrek, Simpsons Pinball Party, Sopranos, Spiderman, Spiderman Vault Edition, Terminator 3, Tron, Wheel Of Fortune, World Poker Tour |
| Stern | SAM | Standard | 25.906" x 19.187" x 1/8" | Part Number: 660-5038-02. NOTE: This measurement needs to be confirmed. |
| Stern | SAM | Standard | 25.906" x 19.187" x 1/8" | Part Number: 660-5038-02. Games with "tilted" speaker panel starting with Star Trek. NOTE: This measurement needs to be confirmed. |
| Stern | Spike 1 | Standard | 25.906" x 19.187" x 1/8" or 26" x 19-1/4" x 1/8" | Spike games with a DMD display. Part Number: 660-5038-02. NOTE: This measurement needs to be confirmed. |
| Stern | Spike 2 | Standard | 25-7/8" x 16-1/2" x 1/8" | Spike games with an LCD display. Part Number: 660-5052-00 |
| Williams | System 11 | Standard | 27" x 19" x 1/8" | See Exceptions |
| Williams | WPC | Standard | 27" x 18-7/8" x 1/8" (685x479x3mm) | See Exceptions |
| Williams | WPC | SuperPin | 27" x 18-7/8" x 1/8" | Demolition Man, Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure, Popeye Saves the Earth, Red & Ted's Road Show, Star Trek: The Next Generation, Twilight Zone |
| Williams | Pin2000 | Pin2000 | 22" x 14-1/4" x 1/8" | Marquee (made of plexiglass, rather than actual glass) |
47.2.1 Exceptions
| Manufacturer | Title | System | Game Style | Glass Dimensions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Williams | Big Guns | System 11 | Standard | 27" X 25-1/4" x 1/8" | This backglass is taller than most other standard backglasses |
| Williams | Pinbot | System 11 | Standard | 28-1/2" X 21" x 1/8" | Due to a possible margin of error with measuring, 28-7/16" x 21" x 1/8" may also be a possible measurement. |
| Williams | Safe Cracker | WPC-95 | Standard | 19-1/2" X 18-7/8" x 1/8" | |
| Williams | Slugfest | WPC | Pitch & Bat | 7-3/8" X 22-7/16" X 3/16" | Glass in front of dot matrix display |