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	<updated>2026-10-19T20:27:19Z</updated>
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		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega&amp;diff=25914</id>
		<title>Data East/Sega</title>
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		<updated>2026-06-06T17:29:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence at Boot Up When Working Properly - Potential CPU failure*/&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball_Repair_Guides | Data East/Sega/Stern pinball repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995.  This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]&lt;br /&gt;
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
*&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;RED - Power Supply&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt;BLUE - CPU&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt;YELLOW - Playfield Power Board&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;GREEN - Sound Board&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first two games, Laser War and Secret Service, did not use a PPB board, and were equipped with a flipper power supply (very similar to the Williams System 7, 9, &amp;amp; early 11 flipper power supply).  Secret Service used an MRB-1 (Mega Resistor Board) which was mounted to the back of the body of the cabinet. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There can also be two additional boards, not including satellite boards which were used such as a shaker motor driver board, a magnet control board, etc.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board.  This board is located on the left side of the lower cabinet.  Games which have more than three flippers, Baywatch and others, use two flipper control boards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays.  DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking on the individual game name will open a new page dedicated to that particular game.  Several of the games have their own coil assignment chart list on their page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;9&amp;quot; |Game List and Board Version&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Game (Manufacture Date)&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU&lt;br /&gt;
!Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
!MRB/PPB&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|DE-0262-2&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;or 520-5003-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;or 520-5003-01&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|SMIG Board&lt;br /&gt;
|(1x) Master:520-5004-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;(2x) 7 Digit A/N:520-5005-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;(2x) 7 Digit N:520-5006-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;(1x) 4 Digit N:520-5007-00&lt;br /&gt;
|DE-0288-1A&lt;br /&gt;
|No PCB&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;3 lug coil and EOS switch. 520-5001-00 Flipper Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Secret_Service|Secret Service (2/88)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-02 &lt;br /&gt;
|520-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|MRB: 520-5015-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
SMIG Board&lt;br /&gt;
|(2x) 7 Digit A/N&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(2x) 7 Digit Numeric: 520-5014-01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-01&lt;br /&gt;
|No PCB&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;3 lug coil and EOS switch. 520-5001-00 Flipper Power Supply.&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5002-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Start of four 7 digit A/N displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Torpedo_Alley|Torpedo Alley (8/88)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-02 &lt;br /&gt;
|520-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|(2x) 7 Digit A/N&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(2x) 7 Digit Numeric: 520-5014-01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-01&lt;br /&gt;
|No PCB&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;3 lug coil and EOS switch. 520-5001-00 Flipper Power Supply.&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5002-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Time_Machine|Time Machine (11/88)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-02 &lt;br /&gt;
|520-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|(2x) 7 Digit A/N&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(2x) 7 Digit Numeric: 520-5014-01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-01&lt;br /&gt;
|No PCB&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;3 lug coil and EOS switch. 520-5001-00 Flipper Power Supply.&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5002-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Playboy_35th_Anniversary|Playboy 35th &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Anniversary (5/89)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-02 &lt;br /&gt;
|520-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|(2x) 7 Digit A/N&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(2x) 7 Digit Numeric: 520-5014-01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-01&lt;br /&gt;
|Deger flippers with 2 Lug flipper coil using a 1N4004 and 1N5404 diodes (except on 100 test games with 520-5033-00 SS flipper board).&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5002-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Start of single wound flipper coil with only 2 lugs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Monday_Night_Football|ABC Monday Night &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Football (9/89)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-02 &lt;br /&gt;
|520-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|(2x) 16 Digit A/N: 520-5030-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-02&lt;br /&gt;
|Deger flippers with 2 Lug flipper coil using a 1N4004 and 1N5404 diodes (except on 100 test games with 520-5033-00 SS flipper board).&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5002-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Start of two 16 digit A/N displays&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Robocop|Robocop (01/90)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-02&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|(2x) 16 Digit A/N: 520-5030-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-02&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00 SS Flipper board 2 flippers with 2 Lug flipper coil and one 1N4004 diode&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5002-00&lt;br /&gt;
|First full game with solid state flippers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Phantom_of_the_Opera|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-02&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|(2x) 16 Digit A/N: 520-5030-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-02&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5002-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Back_to_the_Future|Back to the Future (6/90)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|(2x) 16 Digit A/N: 520-5030-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-02&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5002-00&lt;br /&gt;
|First DE game to use a non-reflexive MPU board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The_Simpsons|The Simpsons (10/90)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5000-00&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-02&lt;br /&gt;
|(2x) 16 digit A/N:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5030-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5002-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Checkpoint|Checkpoint (2/91)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-00 &lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|128x16 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5042-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5002-00&lt;br /&gt;
|First pinball machine with a DMD display&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Teenage_Mutant_Ninja_Turtles|Teenage Mutant &amp;lt;br&amp;gt; Ninja Turtles (6/91)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-00 &lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|128x16 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5042-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5002-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Batman|Batman (8/91)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-00 &lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|128x16 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5042-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5050-01&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Star_Trek_25th_Anniversary|Star Trek&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;25th Anniversary (9/91)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-00&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|128x16 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5042-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5050-01&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hook|Hook (5/92)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-00&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|128x16 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5042-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5050-01&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-01&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|128x32 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5052-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5050-01&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|First DE usage of 128x32 display&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-01&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|128x32 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5052-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5050-02&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Rocky_&amp;amp;_Bullwinkle|Rocky &amp;amp; Bullwinkle (2/93)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-01&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-00&lt;br /&gt;
|128x32 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5052-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5050-02&lt;br /&gt;
|3 flippers. 520-5033-03. &lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Recommended replacement 520-5076-00 flipper board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Jurassic_Park|Jurassic Park (6/93)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03*&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-02&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-05&lt;br /&gt;
|128x32 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5052-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5050-02&lt;br /&gt;
|3 flippers. 520-5033-03&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Uses a shaker motor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Recommended replacement 520-5076-00 flipper board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Last_Action_Hero|Last Action Hero (10/93)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03*&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-02&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-05&lt;br /&gt;
|128x32 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5052-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5050-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5070-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Uses a 520-5068-00 magnet control board&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Uses a shaker motor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Recommended replacement 520-5080-00 flipper board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Tales_from_the_Crypt|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03*&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-02&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-05&lt;br /&gt;
|128x32 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5052-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5050-03&lt;br /&gt;
|3 flippers. 520-5033-03&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Uses a shaker motor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Recommended replacement 520-5076-00 flipper board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The_Who&#039;s_Tommy |The Who&#039;s Tommy (1/94)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03*&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-02&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-05&lt;br /&gt;
|128x32 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5052-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5077-00&lt;br /&gt;
|3 flippers. 520-5076-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Uses a servo motor board for the blinders&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Uses a shaker motor&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03*&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-02&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-05&lt;br /&gt;
|128x32 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5052-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5077-00&lt;br /&gt;
|4 flippers. 520-5080-00 (2 used)&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Start of coil power interlock switch usage.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Uses a shaker motor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Guns N&#039; Roses (7/94)&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03*&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-02&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-05&lt;br /&gt;
|128x32 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5052-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5077-00&lt;br /&gt;
|3 flippers. 520-5076-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5003-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Uses a 520-5068-00 magnet control board&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Optional shaker motor supported with latest software&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Maverick (10/94)&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03*&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-03&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-05&lt;br /&gt;
|192x64 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5075-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5050-03&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5076-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5008-00&lt;br /&gt;
|First usage of &#039;super&#039; 192x64 DMD display&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly&#039;s Frankenstein (1/95)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03*&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-03&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-05&lt;br /&gt;
|192x64 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5075-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5077-00&lt;br /&gt;
|3 flippers. 520-5076-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5008-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Baywatch (2/95)&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03*&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-03&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-05&lt;br /&gt;
|192x64 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5075-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5126-02&lt;br /&gt;
|4 flippers. 520-5080-00 (2 used)&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5008-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Batman Forever (7/95)&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5003-03*&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-03&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB: 520-5021-05&lt;br /&gt;
|192x64 DMD&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;520-5075-00&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5126-02&lt;br /&gt;
|3 flippers. 520-5076-00&lt;br /&gt;
|010-5008-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; Extra pins at CN3 for printer.  See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The game manual includes detailed information such as:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Lamp matrix mapping and location&lt;br /&gt;
*Switch matrix mapping and location&lt;br /&gt;
*Coil and flasher lamp mapping and location&lt;br /&gt;
*Game rules&lt;br /&gt;
*Unique playfield parts list including a rubber ring list and locator&lt;br /&gt;
*Game specific wiring connections, lamp, and coil diagrams&lt;br /&gt;
*Circuit board schematics&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU, display, and sound ROM locations&lt;br /&gt;
*Circuit board jumper settings&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU version compatibility amongst current and previous games&lt;br /&gt;
*Diagnostic and troubleshooting information&lt;br /&gt;
*Theory of operation of some specific boards&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Documentation Errors/Addendums====&lt;br /&gt;
* On the 520-5047-01 power supply schematic, Rev A has a labeling error for D10 &amp;amp; D11, noted in [[media:Sb38.pdf|Service Bulletin 38]]. This was corrected in schematic Rev B (published August 14, 1992).&lt;br /&gt;
* For Lethal Weapon 3, [[media:LW3Addendum.PDF|Manual Addendum]] had several part number updates and a revised flipper assembly diagram (published July 2, 1992).&lt;br /&gt;
* For Guns n&#039; Roses, [[media:Data_East_1994_Guns_N_Roses_English_Manual_Addendum_and_Revised_Page_31.pdf|Manual Addendum No 2]] was released to add testing instructions for the magnet and laser kick, and add schematics for the magnet board (published July 18, 1994).&lt;br /&gt;
* For WWF Royal Rumble, the manual erroneously lists part # 500-5021-10 for the lockdown bar, but since WWF is a widebody game, it should instead be part # 500-5757-00.&lt;br /&gt;
* For Tales From The Crypt, in the list of rubber rings on page 37, it lists two 1-1/2&amp;quot; rubber rings, but in the diagram, it shows three used on the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Service bulletins detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As of 2014, service bulletins for Data East and Sega games are no longer directly available on the Stern Pinball website, but [https://web.archive.org/web/20130520091730/http://sternpinball.com/ServiceBulletins.shtml can be found on an older archived version of the website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Service Bulletin&lt;br /&gt;
!Date&lt;br /&gt;
!Game(s)&lt;br /&gt;
!Summary&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb88.pdf|Nr. 88]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1996-10-14&lt;br /&gt;
|All Games (General)&lt;br /&gt;
|Excerpt From Customer Fax&lt;br /&gt;
|Troubleshooting for when game settings do not save&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb87.pdf|Nr. 87]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1996-09-04&lt;br /&gt;
|Laser War to The Simpsons&lt;br /&gt;
|FYI: Alphanumeric &amp;amp; 7-Segment Display Operation&lt;br /&gt;
|Alphanumeric display theory of operation; digit &amp;amp; segment identification&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb85.pdf|Nr. 85]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1996-05-15&lt;br /&gt;
|Twister to Current&lt;br /&gt;
|New 2-Flipper Theory of Operation and Schematic&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb83.pdf|Nr. 83]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1996-01-23&lt;br /&gt;
|Batman Forever&lt;br /&gt;
|Premature Failure of the New Style Flipper Pawl&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb78.pdf|Nr. 78]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-10-02&lt;br /&gt;
|Laser War to Batman Forever&lt;br /&gt;
|A handy little CPU troubleshooting gimmick&lt;br /&gt;
|Digital logic troubleshooting with the CPU chip and scope&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb77.pdf|Nr. 77]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-08-24&lt;br /&gt;
|Current Games&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;quot;What is this pinball machine trying to tell me?&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|Explanation of new &amp;quot;Operator Alert&amp;quot; tech messages feature&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb76.pdf|Nr. 76]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-08-23&lt;br /&gt;
|Checkpoint to Hook&lt;br /&gt;
|Testing Sm. Dot Matrix (128X16)...Display Glass&lt;br /&gt;
|Bench testing a 128x16 plasma DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb75.pdf|Nr. 75]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-08-22&lt;br /&gt;
|All Games&lt;br /&gt;
|CPU Board - Blanking Circuit Theory of Operation&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb74.pdf|Nr. 74]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-04-28&lt;br /&gt;
|Baywatch&lt;br /&gt;
|Modification to Early Production Games&lt;br /&gt;
|Fix for issue where diagnostic menu icons immediately start scrolling without any user input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb73.pdf|Nr. 73]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-04-28&lt;br /&gt;
|Baywatch &amp;amp; Batman Forever&lt;br /&gt;
|New Portals Service Menu&lt;br /&gt;
|Overview of new software service menus.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb72.pdf|Nr. 72]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-02-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Mary Shelley&#039;s Frankenstein&lt;br /&gt;
|Creature: A Technical Overview&lt;br /&gt;
|Overview of the creature assembly&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb71.pdf|Nr. 71]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-02-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Maverick&lt;br /&gt;
|Ball Trap&lt;br /&gt;
|Two ball trap issues &amp;amp; fixes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb70.pdf|Nr. 70]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-02-14&lt;br /&gt;
|Mary Shelley&#039;s Frankenstein&lt;br /&gt;
|Software Change Notice&lt;br /&gt;
|Version 1.03 CPU code and 1.03 display code must be installed as a matched set to ensure compatibility. This update should not be mixed with prior code updates.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb69.pdf|Nr. 69]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-02-14&lt;br /&gt;
|Maverick&lt;br /&gt;
|Software Change Notice&lt;br /&gt;
|Version 4.04 CPU code and 4.01 display code must be installed as a matched set to ensure compatibility. This update should not be mixed with prior code updates.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb68.pdf|Nr. 68]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-01-27&lt;br /&gt;
|Mary Shelley&#039;s Frankenstein (+ games hereafter)&lt;br /&gt;
|New Service Feature: Bi-Directional Aud/Adj/Diag.&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb67.pdf|Nr. 67]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1995-01-19&lt;br /&gt;
|Maverick&lt;br /&gt;
|OPTO&#039;s A Techinical Overview&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb66.pdf|Nr. 66]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-11-02&lt;br /&gt;
|The Who&#039;s Tommy&lt;br /&gt;
|New Ball Kicker Arm Assembly&lt;br /&gt;
|Shooter/Kicker arm assembly upgrade/replacement due to high failure rate&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb65.pdf|Nr. 65]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-11-02&lt;br /&gt;
|Maverick to Baywatch&lt;br /&gt;
|F.Y.I. Maverick Display 64 X 192 Dot Matrix Intro&lt;br /&gt;
|192x64 DMD &amp;amp; EPROM compatibility&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb64.pdf|Nr. 64]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-11-01&lt;br /&gt;
|Guns N&#039; Roses&lt;br /&gt;
|Shooter Lane Ramp Mounting Modification&lt;br /&gt;
|Fix for multiple balls ending up in the shooter lane, and the auto-launch failing to clear them&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb63.pdf|Nr. 63]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-10-04&lt;br /&gt;
|Guns N&#039; Roses&lt;br /&gt;
|Auto Launch Failure&lt;br /&gt;
|Troubleshooting for multiple balls in the shooter lane, and the auto-launch failing to clear them. See Service bulletin 64 for fix.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb62.pdf|Nr. 62]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-08-22&lt;br /&gt;
|All Games (Gen.) &amp;amp; Laser War to Maverick&lt;br /&gt;
|Coil Designation with Part Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
|List of coil part numbers with (turn/gauge specs) used in Laser War through Maverick&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb61.pdf|Nr. 61]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-08-03&lt;br /&gt;
|Wacky Gator (Redemption)&lt;br /&gt;
|Update Instruction&lt;br /&gt;
|Wacky Gator redemption game update kit for premature power supply, transistor, and lamp failures on games produced between 03-05-03 and 03-29-94&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb60.pdf|Nr. 60]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-07-22&lt;br /&gt;
|Guns N&#039; Roses (+ games hereafter)&lt;br /&gt;
|New Design: Cabinet Legs / Backbox Easy Access System&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb59.pdf|Nr. 59]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-05-27&lt;br /&gt;
|The Who&#039;s Tommy&lt;br /&gt;
|Servo Motor Stripping Gears&lt;br /&gt;
|Blinder mech issues&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb58.pdf|Nr. 58]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-04-15&lt;br /&gt;
|Multiple Games&lt;br /&gt;
|Solid State Flippers - Remains Energized&lt;br /&gt;
|Issue caused by cold solider joints&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb57.pdf|Nr. 57]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-04-08&lt;br /&gt;
|Tales From the Crypt&lt;br /&gt;
|Solid State Flipper Board&lt;br /&gt;
|Issue with weak left flipper caused by wrong resistor value on flipper board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb56.pdf|Nr. 56]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-03-01&lt;br /&gt;
|Multiple Games&lt;br /&gt;
|Game Code Updates&lt;br /&gt;
|Announcement that all game code updates will be sent on floppy disks&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb55.pdf|Nr. 55]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-02-28&lt;br /&gt;
|Multiple Games&lt;br /&gt;
|Game Resets&lt;br /&gt;
|Game resets as a result of 5V shorting to ground; add insulating material between area on sound board and backplane.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb54.pdf|Nr. 54]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-03-23&lt;br /&gt;
|Multiple Games&lt;br /&gt;
|Flipper / End of Stroke Failures&lt;br /&gt;
|Update kit for premature failure of EOS switch contacts&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb53.pdf|Nr. 53]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-01-31&lt;br /&gt;
|Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
|Common &amp;amp; Inherent Problems&lt;br /&gt;
|Coils firing at random, switch matrix issues, blown fuses; display indicates 6 balls missing; flipper does not energize; display blanks out for 15-30 seconds in game over mode&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb52.pdf|Nr. 52]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-12-16&lt;br /&gt;
|Tales From the Crypt&lt;br /&gt;
|PPB - L/R Relay Failure&lt;br /&gt;
|On a small number games prior to serial number 101664, a 24v AC relay was installed on some PPB boards, instead of 24v DC relay.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb51.pdf|Nr. 51]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1994-01-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Tales From the Crypt&lt;br /&gt;
|Printer Interface Not Functional&lt;br /&gt;
|Incorrect DIP switch setting on DMD controller board causes Printer Interface error message&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb50.pdf|Nr. 50]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-11-16&lt;br /&gt;
|Multiple Games&lt;br /&gt;
|Dot Matrix Display Glass - Theory of Operation&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb49.pdf|Nr. 49]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-11-16&lt;br /&gt;
|Multiple Games&lt;br /&gt;
|Solid State Flipper - Theory of Operation&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb48.pdf|Nr. 48]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-11-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Last Action Hero&lt;br /&gt;
|Lock Ball Assembly&lt;br /&gt;
|Early production/sample games experienced ball jams in 6 ball trough; replace compression spring to correct issue. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb47.pdf|Nr. 47]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-10-24&lt;br /&gt;
|Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
|EPROM Rev. 5.10.&lt;br /&gt;
|Fix for DMD blacking out for 15-30 seconds&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb46.pdf|Nr. 46]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-10-19&lt;br /&gt;
|Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
|Flipper Return Springs&lt;br /&gt;
|Flippers wouldn&#039;t return to the rest position as a result of a broken return spring. See also Service Bulletin 44.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb45.pdf|Nr. 45]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-11-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Tales From the Crypt&lt;br /&gt;
|Captive Ball/Flat Rail Update&lt;br /&gt;
|On games prior to serial number 98741, slam tilt and switch issues surface when the captive ball hits the stand up target and shorts against a ball guide. Includes instructions to install mylar to act as an insulator.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb44.pdf|Nr. 44]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-06-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
|Flipper Return Springs (Ltd. Dist. by Serial #)&lt;br /&gt;
|Issue with malformed return springs. See also Service Bulletin 46.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb43.pdf|Nr. 43]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-06-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
|Failure of Switch #37 Center Scoop&lt;br /&gt;
|On games prior to serial number 87390, center scoop switch can fail to work, caused by broken diode. Replace diode and add silicone rubber for cushioning.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb42.pdf|Nr. 42]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-06-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
|Left-Right Motor (Fails Prematurely)&lt;br /&gt;
|On games prior to serial number 87177, limit switches need to be adjusted for motor (note--referenced diagram is missing). Also fixed via code in version 5.00.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb41.pdf|Nr. 41]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-06-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
|Up-Down Motor (Fails Prematurely)&lt;br /&gt;
|On games prior to serial number 87012, install a spring kit to help raise the dino assembly, and a spring loaded crank arm to prevent damage to the motor if the head is forced down manually.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb40.pdf|Nr. 40]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-06-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
|Weak Kick on Dino Saucer Eject&lt;br /&gt;
|On games prior to serial number 87177, kicker assembly might not be aligned properly (note--referenced diagram is missing), or the wrong spring might be installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb39a.pdf|Nr. 39A]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-06-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
|T-Rex Theory of Operation&lt;br /&gt;
|Theory of operation of T-Rex head, testing information, and troubleshooting information&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb39.pdf|Nr. 39]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-06-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
|ROM Rev. 5.00 for Early Jurassic Park Games&lt;br /&gt;
|Issues with T-Rex head grabbing the ball leading to possible damage to a coil. Suggested adjustment fix, and software fixes for the issue in version 5.00.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb38c.pdf|Nr. 38C]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-04-02&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky &amp;amp; Bullwinkle &amp;amp; Friends&lt;br /&gt;
|Ball Draining (Orbit Shot)&lt;br /&gt;
|Fix for an orbit shot ball drain between the flippers&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb38b.pdf|Nr. 38B]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1993-01-04&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Wars&lt;br /&gt;
|Display Controller EPROMS&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD controller jumper settings depending upon what EPROMs are used in 2 different versions of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb38a.pdf|Nr. 38A]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1992-08-13&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Trek (and later)&lt;br /&gt;
|Stealth Coating Maint.&lt;br /&gt;
|Cleaning product advice for playfields with a new topcoat starting with Star Trek.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb38.pdf|Nr. 38]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1992-08-13&lt;br /&gt;
|Lethal Weapon 3&lt;br /&gt;
|Type Error on P.S.&lt;br /&gt;
|520-5047-01 power supply labeling error for D10 &amp;amp; D11 on Rev A schematic (corrected in Rev B schematic).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb37.pdf|Nr. 37]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1992-07-20&lt;br /&gt;
|Hook&lt;br /&gt;
|Erratic Play&lt;br /&gt;
|Erratic switch (and slam tilt) &amp;amp; solenoid behavior caused by shorted strobe line on left drop target bank.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb36a.pdf|Nr. 36A]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1992-07-06&lt;br /&gt;
|Lethal Weapon 3&lt;br /&gt;
|Possible High Voltage Failures on Power Supply Bd.&lt;br /&gt;
|On early Lethal Weapon 3 games, a bad batch of zener diodes was causing power supply failures; resistor added in order to reduce in-rush current. (note: referenced schematic is missing).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb36.pdf|Nr. 36]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1992-07-20&lt;br /&gt;
|Lethal Weapon 3&lt;br /&gt;
|Flipper Adjustment&lt;br /&gt;
|Flippers appear to be weak and are unable to make the ramp shots; make sure flipper bats are aligned with the inlane guides.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb35.pdf|Nr. 35]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1992-04-16&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Trek 25th Anniversary&lt;br /&gt;
|Game Program&lt;br /&gt;
|Various game issues/bugs fixed in version 2.00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb34.pdf|Nr. 34]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1992-02-06&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Trek 25th Anniversary&lt;br /&gt;
|Chase Light Update&lt;br /&gt;
|Chase lights intermittently fail, game blacks out momentarily, and blows F1 &amp;amp; F2; caused by shorting of lamp leads in the assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb33.pdf|Nr. 33]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1991-12-18&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Trek 25th Anniversary&lt;br /&gt;
|Transporter FX Theory of Operation&lt;br /&gt;
|Backbox transporter effect theory of operation &amp;amp; troubleshooting&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb32.pdf|Nr. 32]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1991-12-17&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Trek 25th Anniversary&lt;br /&gt;
|Ramp-Up Mechanism&lt;br /&gt;
|Issue where the up/down ramp doesn&#039;t always come back down.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb31.pdf|Nr. 31]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1991-12-06&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Trek 25th Anniversary&lt;br /&gt;
|Program Update&lt;br /&gt;
|Bug fixes in game code 1.17&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb30.pdf|Nr. 30]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1991-09-19&lt;br /&gt;
|Batman&lt;br /&gt;
|Shooter Lane Update&lt;br /&gt;
|Issue with shooter lane switch getting stuck.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb29.pdf|Nr. 29]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1991-05-07&lt;br /&gt;
|Checkpoint / Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles&lt;br /&gt;
|Wiring of Speaker&lt;br /&gt;
|Incorrect speaker wiring causes buzzing, popping, and distorted sound.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb28a.pdf|Nr. 28A]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1991-02-20&lt;br /&gt;
|Multiple Games (Checkpoint to Present)&lt;br /&gt;
|Modification to new P.S. Comp&lt;br /&gt;
|Modification instructions to make a newer power supply backwards compatible with older games.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb28.pdf|Nr. 28]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1991-02-20&lt;br /&gt;
|The Simpsons&lt;br /&gt;
|Cooling Tower Breakage&lt;br /&gt;
|Add a pair of washers to the cooling tower screw to better secure the tower and help prevent it from breaking.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb27.pdf|Nr. 27]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1990-10-23&lt;br /&gt;
|The Simpsons&lt;br /&gt;
|Ground Fault Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|On games with serial numbers 31788 to 32212, there is a problem with the power switch that may cause a short and a shock hazard.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb26a.pdf|Nr. 26A]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1990-09-05&lt;br /&gt;
|Back to the Future&lt;br /&gt;
|Program Error&lt;br /&gt;
|Workaround for power up game code bug prior to version 2.7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb26.pdf|Nr. 26]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1990-09-04&lt;br /&gt;
|Back to the Future&lt;br /&gt;
|Program Update&lt;br /&gt;
|Fix for power up game code bug in version 2.7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb25.pdf|Nr. 25]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1990-05-08&lt;br /&gt;
|Phantom of the Opera&lt;br /&gt;
|Solid State Update&lt;br /&gt;
|On games prior to serial number 27607, flipper board fixes for two flipper issues (weak flipper, and a held flipper comes down without releasing the flipper button)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb24.pdf|Nr. 24]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1990-03-22&lt;br /&gt;
|ABC Monday Night Football&lt;br /&gt;
|Weak Ball Trough&lt;br /&gt;
|Fix for ball not being ejected into shooter lane, or barely being ejected into shooter lane from ball trough.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb23.pdf|Nr. 23]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1990-06-29&lt;br /&gt;
|Robocop&lt;br /&gt;
|Solid State Update&lt;br /&gt;
|Flipper board fixes for flipper issues (weak flipper, double flip, or held flipper comes down without releasing the flipper button)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb22.pdf|Nr. 22]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-12-07&lt;br /&gt;
|ABC Monday Night Football&lt;br /&gt;
|Q54 Failure&lt;br /&gt;
|Q54 (Outhole kicker) fails. Fix for lug shorting on the coil stop bracket.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb21.pdf|Nr. 21]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-12-05&lt;br /&gt;
|ABC Monday Night Football&lt;br /&gt;
|Links on ABC Monday Night Football&lt;br /&gt;
|Green flipper mech links were breaking after several days of use due to faulty material manufacturing. The color of new links is now blue.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb20.pdf|Nr. 20]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-12-04&lt;br /&gt;
|All Games&lt;br /&gt;
|Solenoid Failure&lt;br /&gt;
|Pop bumper coil failures caused by stuck activation switch. On Monday Night Football games starting with serial number 17586, each pop bumper now has its own fuse. A new pop bumper design was introduced in the middle of producing Playboy.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb19.pdf|Nr. 19]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-08-31&lt;br /&gt;
|Slap Shot Hockey (Redemption)&lt;br /&gt;
|Slap Shot Updates&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb18a.pdf|Nr. 18A]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-07-14&lt;br /&gt;
|Playboy 35th Anniversary&lt;br /&gt;
|Ball Catch&lt;br /&gt;
|On early sample games, fix for ball trap issue under center ramp&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb18.pdf|Nr. 18]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-06-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Playboy 35th Anniversary&lt;br /&gt;
|Program Revision&lt;br /&gt;
|Game code A02-3 fixes timing issue of switches that have too long of a delay to activate a coil&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb17.pdf|Nr. 17]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-05-26&lt;br /&gt;
|Playboy 35th Anniversary&lt;br /&gt;
|Bulletin &amp;amp; Replay Level&lt;br /&gt;
|Game adjustments to increase ball times and replay percentages.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb16a.pdf|Nr. 16A]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-01-05&lt;br /&gt;
|Time Machine&lt;br /&gt;
|High Score Settings&lt;br /&gt;
|New recommendation for high score replay levels in game settings.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb16.pdf|Nr. 16]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-05-26&lt;br /&gt;
|Time Machine&lt;br /&gt;
|Power Supply Modification&lt;br /&gt;
|The GI traces were insufficient for the current they were carrying and burning the board; the fix is to add jumper wires to help carry the load.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb15.pdf|Nr. 15]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-04-06&lt;br /&gt;
|Time Machine&lt;br /&gt;
|Ramp Modification&lt;br /&gt;
|On games prior to serial number 14092, the divider between the two ramps tends to break; the fix is to add metal protectors to protect the ramps and cover up any existing damage.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb14.pdf|Nr. 14]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1989-04-03&lt;br /&gt;
|Laser War&lt;br /&gt;
|CPU Update&lt;br /&gt;
|Procedure to modify the MPU to go from 2K RAM to 8K RAM (6116 RAM chip); this allows the MPU to be used on (some) later games.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb13.pdf|Nr. 13]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-09-09&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Preventative Maintenance, E.O.S.&lt;br /&gt;
|Fix for issue with breaking EOS blades.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb12.pdf|Nr. 12]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-09-07&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Fuse Change&lt;br /&gt;
|With a shorted transistor, solenoids being damaged due to overfusing; lower value fuse recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb11.pdf|Nr. 11]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-06-16&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Coil T.D. Chart&lt;br /&gt;
|Errors on coil identification chart.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb10.pdf|Nr. 10]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-06-15&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Ball Eater Adjustment&lt;br /&gt;
|Recommended adjustments to ball eater assembly&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb9.pdf|Nr. 9]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-05-27&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Flipper E.O.S. Actuator&lt;br /&gt;
|Issue with heatshrink tubing wearing through too soon on EOS assembly; replaced with with stronger material.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb8.pdf|Nr. 8]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-05-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Correction to Spinner Modification, SB 003&lt;br /&gt;
|Issue with no sound at power up caused by error in modification instructions in the original printing of Service Bulletin 3.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb7.pdf|Nr. 7]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-05-06&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Flipper Assembly Change&lt;br /&gt;
|On games prior to serial number 10160, remove washer on flipper pawl to prevent screw from working loose.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb6.pdf|Nr. 6]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-04-27&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service &amp;amp; Laser War&lt;br /&gt;
|CPU Board Changeability&lt;br /&gt;
|How to identify 3 different versions of the MPU, and modify the Secret Service version to work in Laser War.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb5.pdf|Nr. 5]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-04-26&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Up Post Adjustment&lt;br /&gt;
|Fix for issue where the up post won&#039;t latch down.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb4.pdf|Nr. 4]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-04-25&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Ball Trap Modification&lt;br /&gt;
|Fix for ball trap issue near the ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb3.pdf|Nr. 3]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-04-20&lt;br /&gt;
|Laser War&lt;br /&gt;
|Game Improvements&lt;br /&gt;
|Addresses several game issues &amp;amp; improvements. Note: an error in a modification in the original printing of Service Bulletin 3 caused a sound issue; the correction for the issue is in [[media:Sb8.pdf|Service Bulletin 8]].&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb2.pdf|Nr. 2]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-04-18&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Manual Correction&lt;br /&gt;
|Incorrect part numbers on Ball Saver Pop Up Post Assembly&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb1a.pdf|Nr. 1A]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-04-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Cross Playfield Plunger Shot&lt;br /&gt;
|Adjustments for shooter lane ball guide, ball trough, and kickbig (White House) area.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Sb1.pdf|Nr. 1]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1988-04-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Secret Service&lt;br /&gt;
|Ball Trap Modification&lt;br /&gt;
|Fix for ball trap issue on plastics above the White House.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
===The Data East Board Set===&lt;br /&gt;
Data East used several different board generations.  It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Wiring Color Code===&lt;br /&gt;
Data East / Sega never adopted a color coding system. Instead, the wire color was marked accordingly in the associated documentation, (ie. a white wire with a blue trace is referred to as WHT-BLU, yellow with red is YEL-RED, black is just BLK, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connector Designations===&lt;br /&gt;
Data East / Sega did not use a board numbering system to any of the specific boards used in a game.  In other words, documentation referred to boards as the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*PS = Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU = CPU&lt;br /&gt;
*PPB = Playfield Power Board&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound = Sound Board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The naming convention for the connector on each board is notated as CNxx followed by a consecutive number, starting with &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; (ie. CN1, CN2. . .CN10, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
According to the Data East Star Trek 25th Anniversary Pinball schematics/manual pp44; there are two connectors which do not follow the CNxx designation. These are 2F1 and 2F2 which connect to the main transformer (secondary side) at the bottom of the cabinet. &lt;br /&gt;
====Burned Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
There are several connectors which are known to go bad after 10s of years of repeated thermal cycling of the system. The connectors become fragile; connector resistance goes up and the pins either heat up and/or melt it&#039;s housing. These connectors become an intermittant issue which can cause unexpected malfunctions which are difficult to troubleshoot. Author&#039;s Star trek machine gave intermittent incorrect sound effects and display resets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check the secondary transformer side connector; 2F2 which is located at the bottom of the cabinet and contains 2 sets of 6.3VAC GI illumination circuits. An example of a burned connector:&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE_CN_2F2.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A Burnt 2F2 Connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this connector looks charred or looks like it got hot; replace it. At this time; a direct replacement for the connector is not known; however, A functional replacement can be purchased from Digikey under the following part numbers:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DigkeyPN  MFG             MFG PN     &#039;&#039;Description&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&amp;amp;site=us&amp;amp;KeyWords=A1453-ND A1453-ND] TE Connectivity 1-480703-0 &#039;&#039;CONN Cap 4POS 94V-2 UNI-MATE (female)&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&amp;amp;site=us&amp;amp;KeyWords=A1452-ND A1452-ND] TE Connectivity 1-480702-0 &#039;&#039;CONN Plug 4POS 94V-2 UNI-MATE (male)&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&amp;amp;site=us&amp;amp;KeyWords=A25375-ND A25375-ND] TE Connectivity 350551-3   &#039;&#039;CONN Socket 14-20AWG TIN Crimp&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&amp;amp;site=us&amp;amp;KeyWords=A25375-ND A25375-ND] TE Connectivity 350551-3   &#039;&#039;CONN Socket 14-20AWG TIN Crimp&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You&#039;ll need 1 of each of the first two, and there is a minimum buy of 10ea of the last two of which you&#039;ll need 4ea.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br style=&amp;quot;clear: both&amp;quot; /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE_CN1_PPB.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A toasty &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; used at connector CN1]]&lt;br /&gt;
Check CN1 on the &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Power Supply (PS)&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;. A bad connector is shown on the left. Remove the connector. Check to ensure the rounded PCB pins are not blackened with oxidation. If the connector feels loose, it&#039;s time to replace it. An exact replacement is available. Molex part number 09-18-5121 can be acquired from Mouser.com as [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-18-5121?qs=8D5JSrTcX2r4uVBkcKnbKA%3d%3d 538-09-18-5121] &#039;&#039;Pin &amp;amp; Socket Connectors PCB MIXTERM 12P&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Data East uses an 8x8 switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches (only games which use [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Reflexive_Versus_Non-Reflexive_CPU_Boards reflexive CPU boards]). A general discussion of the switch matrix can be viewed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#The_Switch_Matrix here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
Data East made several revisions to their power supplies during production to support different display (alphanumeric, small, medium, large) and flipper combinations (2, 3, 4).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE520-5000-00.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Data East 520-5000-00 power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPSSchematicMJE340MJE350.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Data East 520-5000-00 power supply schematics]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Part Number 520-5000-00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used on games with &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;alphanumeric displays&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; such as &amp;quot;The Simpsons&amp;quot;. It creates both +100 and -100 volts to operate the plasma score displays. Typical problems with this board include:&lt;br /&gt;
*Burned general illumination connections and connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins on CN1, called a &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector, burn. You can safely exchange the unused pins at positions 5 and 8 for burned pins in a pinch.&lt;br /&gt;
*The fuse clips are brittle, and fracture easily or lose their tension, a common theme across all Data East power supplies.&lt;br /&gt;
*This power supply is compatible with the D-8345-XXX power supply from Williams and vice versa.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DESmallDMDPSOverview.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Data East 520-5047-00 Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPSSchematicSmallDisplay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Data East 520-5047-00 Power Supply Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Part Number 520-5047-00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used on the five games (Checkpoint, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, Batman, Star Trek, and Hook) which used the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;small 128 x 16 DMD&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. One thing which makes this power supply stand out at a glance are the two large 10W power resistors installed on the unit.  Other things which make it different from the power supply used with a &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; 128 x 32 DMD are:&lt;br /&gt;
*The use of MJE340 and MJE350 high voltage transistors versus MJE15030 and MJE15031 transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
While compatible, the -00 should not be used as a replacement for the -01 power supply. The -01 is capable of delivering higher currents and is more robust.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Data East 520-5047-01 Revision A Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:500-5047-01.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Data East 520-5047-01 Power Supply Schematics]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Part Number 520-5047-01 Revision A&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Revision A High Voltage section:&lt;br /&gt;
*Has no resistor R17&lt;br /&gt;
*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4764 and is tied to ground&lt;br /&gt;
*Zener diode D11 is a 1N4743&lt;br /&gt;
*Connector CN7 has three pins to drive the GI relay on the power supply&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPSRevB.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Data East 520-5047-01 Revision B Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Part Number 520-5047-01 Revision B&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Revision B High Voltage section:&lt;br /&gt;
*Has a 1.5Kohm 1/2W resistor at R17&lt;br /&gt;
*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4743 &amp;lt;--- &#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; Different from previous board revision&lt;br /&gt;
*Zener diode D11 is a 1N4764 tied to ground &amp;lt;--- &#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; Different from previous board revision&lt;br /&gt;
*Connector CN7 has three pins to drive the GI relay on the power supply&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPowerSupply-01RevisionC.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Data East 520-5047-01 Revision C Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Part Number 520-5047-01 Revision C&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Revision C High Voltage section:&lt;br /&gt;
*Has a 1.5Kohm 1/2W resistor at R17&lt;br /&gt;
*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4743&lt;br /&gt;
*Zener diode D11 is a 1N4764 tied to ground&lt;br /&gt;
*Connector CN7 has three pins to drive the GI relay on the power supply&lt;br /&gt;
The -01 power supply is backwards compatible with games that use the -00 power supply. If the unregulated 12V on connector CN7 are not used (which is the case with most pins using the -02 power supply) it can replace the -02 too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPowerSupply-02RevisionA.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Data East 520-5047-02 Revision A Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPSSchematic1503015031.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Data East 520-5047-02 Power Supply Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Part Number 520-5047-02 Revision A&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Has a 1.5Kohm 1/2W resistor at R17&lt;br /&gt;
*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4743&lt;br /&gt;
*The Zener diode at D11 is a 1N4764 tied to ground&lt;br /&gt;
*Connector CN7 has two additional pins that carry positive and negative unregulated 12 volts. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPowerSupply-02RevisionB.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Data East 520-5047-02 Revision B Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Part Number 520-5047-02 Revision B&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The -02 power supply is backwards compatible with games that use the -00 or -01 power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DELargeDMDPS-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Data East Large DMD Power Supply 520-5047-03 Revision B]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:500-5047-03.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Data East Large DMD Power Supply 520-5047-03 Schematics]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Part Number 520-5047-03 Revision B&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used for Data East games with the large format DMD display. Since the large DMD displays had their own power supplies, this board did not contain circuitry to create the high voltages DMD displays require. It provides 5, 12, and -12VDC only.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5003-00 and DE-0262-2 (Version 0) - &#039;&#039;&#039;Reflexive&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE_CPU_520-5003-00.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Data East 520-5003-00 CPU Board. The board in this pic has been modified to accept a 6264 CMOS RAM chip to properly function in a Secret Service.  Note that the toroidal inductor on the +5v input has been removed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The version 0 MPU contains only 2K of CMOS battery backed RAM, that being a 6116. The board can &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; accommodate a larger memory chip like the 6264. Consequently, this board won&#039;t work in later production Data East games since they probably take advantage of the expanded memory. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The -00 MPU in this image has been heavily modified to accept a 6264 CMOS RAM chip. The &amp;quot;Data East Test PROM&amp;quot; does not work with this revision of the board either.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5003-01 (Version 1) - &#039;&#039;&#039;Reflexive&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-0262-2-CPU.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Data East 520-5003-01 CPU Board. This picture shows the first revision still labeled with &amp;quot;DE-0262-2&amp;quot;. Compared to later boards marked with 520-5003-00 and 520-5003-01 part numbers, this revision has fewer jumpers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The version 1 MPU was used only for the early production run of Laser War. Later production of Laser War used the Version 2 board. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5003-02 (Version 2) - &#039;&#039;&#039;Reflexive&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De_cpu_520-5003-02.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Data East 520-5003-02 CPU Board from Time Machine]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This revision of the Data East MPU increased the RAM size to 8K by replacing the 6116 with a 6264 RAM.  With this version, the MPU has no control over the switched solenoids (solenoids 17-22).  In solenoid test, coils 17-22 will not even be noted or triggered at all.  The only way to test these coils is to close each one&#039;s associated switched solenoid switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5003-03 (Version 3) - &#039;&#039;&#039;Non-Reflexive&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE CPU 520-5003-03.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Data East 520-5003-03 CPU Board from Last Action Hero]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This revision of the Data East MPU added circuitry which could control the switched solenoids. This particular MPU board is noticeably thicker in construction than prior versions.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[media:DE-MPU-Schematics.pdf|520-5003-03 (Version 3) board schematics]].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5003-04 (Version 4, a Version 3 with Version 4 label) - &#039;&#039;&#039;Non-Reflexive&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De cpu 520-5003-04.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Data East 520-5003-03 CPU Board from Jurassic Park (note -04 label from factory)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This revision of the Data East MPU also included circuitry which could control the switched solenoids. See the following section.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Reflexive Versus Non-Reflexive CPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
Version 1 and 2 Data East CPU boards are reflexive.  Simply stated, reflexive CPU boards are boards where the 6 switched coil drive transistors were enabled by a switched coil switch input.  These coils were typically pop bumpers and slingshots.  Each assembly had its own switch, which was not part of the switch matrix, and was responsible for enabling its associated coil when closed. This implementation is similar to Williams System 11 Special Solenoid, however, unlike System 11 hardware, the MPU has no control over the switched solenoids (solenoids 17-22). Note that with the reflexive boards, the switched solenoids were limited to the slingshots and pop bumpers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Version 3 boards are non-reflexive.  Non-reflexive boards use 6 special coil drive transistors, however, the switches responsible for enabling these coils are part of the switch matrix.  Also, the addition of a 7407 chip at 11C enables the MPU to control the switched solenoids.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Version 3, non-reflexive boards are backwards compatible, and can be used in a game which would typically use a version 2 board.  Conversely, version 2 reflexive boards are &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; forward compatible in games which use a version 3 board. Note that with the non-reflexive boards, the switched solenoids were not limited to just the slingshots and pop bumpers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Mega Resistor Board (MRB-1)===&lt;br /&gt;
The Mega Resistor Board was only present in Data East&#039;s [[Secret Service]] to bring down the voltage from 25v from the coil transistors to 12v for the flash lamps. It was replaced by the Playfield Power Board (PPB-1) in later games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Dataeast-mega-resistor-board.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Mega Resistor Board (MRB-1)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===SMIG Board===&lt;br /&gt;
On Secret Service, the MRB board did not control ground to the 50 volt coils. So on [[Laser Wars]] and [[Secret Service]] a small board called the SMIG board was used, mounted under the playfield. In addition, a backbox mounted 50 volt power board was installed. This board was identical to the 50 volt &amp;quot;flipper power board&amp;quot; used on System11 games prior to Williams&#039; Big Guns.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Playfield Power Board (PPB-1)===&lt;br /&gt;
The PPB-1 board is Data East&#039;s answer to Williams&#039; auxiliary power supply and interconnect boards created during the System 11B era.  The PPB board consists of the four GI string fuses, current limiting resistors for the flashers, up to (not all PPBs are fully populated) five TIP-36c transistors, the 50v bridge rectifier, an array of diodes and a relay for coil multiplexing, and several other 32v and 50v power fuses.  Some versions added a varistor, while others didn&#039;t.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*50v coil board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5015-00&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PPB520-5021-00.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Data east 520-5021-00 PPB-1 Revision A board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE_520-5021-00_RevB_PPB.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Data east 520-5021-00 PPB-1 Revision B board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5021-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The only discernible difference between the 520-5021-00 Rev A and Rev B boards is the addition of a varistor on the revision B board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE PPB-1 520-5021-05.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5021-05 PPB-1 Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5021-05&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 520-5021-05 has the addition of fuses F6 (32v flashers), F7 (32v coils and flashers), F8 (50v coils, except flippers), and F9 (50v flippers only).  The source for both F8 and F9 originate from the bridge rectifier on the PPB.  F5 is the fuse on the input side of the bridge. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEXPinPPBBoard.jpg ‎|300px|left|thumb|XPin replacement for the Data East PPB-1 Boards]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The XPin replacement for the OEM PPB boards uses FETs instead of TIP-36c transistors. A good replacement FET is the IRF9530, as pictured on the repaired board at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
====BSMT 2000 Sound Board Compatibility====&lt;br /&gt;
Other guides report that sound boards are not upwards or downwards compatible, this is not entirely true.  Later boards that use the BSMT2000 DSP (520-5050-00 and later) have at least some backwards compatibility with previous BSMT2000 board versions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, a 520-5077-00 board that was used in later games such as WWF Royal Rumble and has spaces for four music/speech EPROMs at U17, U21, U36, and U37 will work in an earlier game that came with version 520-5050-02 such as Jurassic Park, which uses two EPROMS at U17 and U21.  All sounds and music play correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An earlier board will work on later games that use more EPROMs, however some sounds will be missing since the earlier version does not have space for all EPROMs.  For example, a version 520-5050-02 board used in Star Wars will work in a WWF Royal Rumble that came with later version 520-5077-00, but sounds will be missing since the 520-5050-02 only has space for two sound/music ROMs while WWF requires three music/speech ROMS for full sound capabilities.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Additional testing needs to be done to see if there are any addressing issues with earlier ROMs used in later games, or if ROMs from later games could be doubled up and used different/previous versions.  But from a connectivity and electrical standpoint, there is some cross compatibility and maybe complete backwards compatibility.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; Despite the schematic documentation for games like Jurassic Park and Last Action Hero, all BSMT2000 based sound boards use a 10Kohm POT across pins 1, 2 and 3 of the connector labeled &amp;quot;POT&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-0288 sound board.jpg|300px|left|thumb|DE-0288-1A Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;DE-0288-1A Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This sound board was developed for and used only in the early run of Laser War.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5002-01&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 520-5002-01 Blue Sound.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5002-01 Earlier (Blue) Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 520-5002-01 Green Sound.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Data East 520-5002-01 Later (Green) Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LaserwarLateProductionSoundBoard.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Late production Laser War sound board ROM locations.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This sound board can also be used in Data East&#039;s first electronic game, Laser War. The ROMs should be placed as shown in the image at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5002-02&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 520-5002-02 Sound.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5002-02 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5002-03&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 520-5002-03 Stereo Sound.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5002-03 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5050-00&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5050-01&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5050-02&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5050-03&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 520-5050-00 Sound.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5050-00 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 520-5077-00 Ebay 4-16-15.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5077-00 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series.  It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects.  It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sega_Sound_520-5126-02_Front.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Sega 520-5126-02 sound Board (Front)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sega Sound 520-5126-02 Back.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Sega 520-5126-02 sound Board (Back)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design.  The power amplifier section was redesigned.  It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00. The sound section of the later White Star boardset is almost a 1:1 copy of this board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with the 520-5050-00 DE used the BSMT2000 sound DSP. The two PAL chips on all these board revisions are identical and can be interchanged with the ones in the White Star CPU board. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solid State Flipper Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The solid state flipper board was used in many Data East games as well as the first two WhiteStar games, Apollo 13 and GoldenEye.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5033-0x series&lt;br /&gt;
**520-5033-00&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:DESolidStateFlipperBoard520-5033-00.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A two channel Data East Solid State Flipper Board, 520-5033-00]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5033-03&lt;br /&gt;
This board has annoying design defect where the flippers would not work if the end of stroke switch was not making good contact.  See [[Data_East/Sega#Solid_State_Flipper_Board_Issues | Solid State Flipper Board Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:DataEastFlipperBoard520-5033-03-RevisionC.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Data East 2nd Generation Solid State Flipper Board, 520-5033-03, as found on Jurassic Park]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5070-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:520-5070-00.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Data East Solid State Flipper Board 520-5070-00]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 520-5070-00 Solid State Flipper Board was supposedly only used on Last Action Hero.  The board has 10 pins at CN1 as opposed to 9 pins on the more common 520-5033-00 flipper board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5076-00&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5080-00&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:DEFlipperBoardRottenDogFLP023.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Data East Rottendog Aftermarket Flipper Board (FLP023)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board was re-engineered to use MOSFETs. It is compatible with a great many DE games via DIP settings.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*DE-0264-1 Display Controller Board&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEDisplayController.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Data East Master Display Controller Board DE-0264-1]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board was used exclusively for the first Data East game, Laser War. It was not used in any other game. It appears to be a direct copy of the Williams System 11 display controller board used in games like High Speed. It supports two 7-alphanumeric and two 7-numeric displays, along with the &amp;quot;ball in play/credit&amp;quot; display.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5014-00&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE_Time_Machine_Display.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Data East 520-5014-00 Alpha-Numeric / Numeric 7 digit display]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
520-5014-00 - Alphanumeric / numeric 7 digit display used on...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Secret Service,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Torpedo Alley,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Time Machine, and&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Playboy 35th Anniversary only.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*520-5030-00&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE520-5030-00.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Data East 520-5030-00 Alpha-Numeric 16 digit display]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
520-5030-00 - Alphanumeric 16 digit display used on...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Monday Night Football,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;RoboCop,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Phantom of the Opera,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Back to the Future, and&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;The Simpsons.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 128x16 520-5042-00.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Data East 520-5042-00 128 x 16 &amp;quot;small&amp;quot; DMD Display (front)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 128x16 520-5042-00 Back.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Data East 520-5042-00 128 x 16 &amp;quot;small&amp;quot; DMD Display (back)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Checkpoint,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Batman,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Star Trek, and&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Hook.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:128x32 DMD.JPG|thumb|left|400px|Data East 520-5052-00 128 x 32 &amp;quot;Standard sized&amp;quot; DMD Display (front)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 128x16 128x32 Comparison.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Size Comparison between 128 x 32 and 128 x 16 DMD Displays]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
520-5052-00 - Used for the &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Lethal Weapon 3,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Star Wars,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Jurassic Park,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Last Action Hero,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Tales from the Crypt,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Who&#039;s Tommy Pinball Wizard, and Guns N&#039; Roses.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Placeholder for Sega 520-5075-00 192 x 64 &amp;quot;Large&amp;quot; DMD Display (front)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sega_Large_DMD_Back.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Sega 520-5075-00 192 x 64 &amp;quot;Large&amp;quot; DMD Display (back)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
520-5075-00 - Used for the large 192x64 dot matrix display on...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Maverick,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Mary Shelley&#039;s Frankenstein,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Batman Forever, and&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Baywatch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===DMD Controller Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sega 520-5055-01 DMD Control Board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Data East and Sega White Star Display Controller Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AnnotatedDMDController.png|thumb|right|300px|Data East and Sega White Star Display Controller Board Layout with Ground Connections Shown]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Schematics for this board can be found [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/b/b9/Display_Controller_Bd.pdf &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
520-5055-00 - Used with &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; sized 128 x 32 dot matrix displays&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The display controller board doesn&#039;t contain circuitry to provide the on board 68B09E with a &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; pulse. The reset signal is provided from the games MPU via a pin at the ribbon cable connection (J1 pin 20). The surface mount version of the board has provisions to provide a reset signal at U10, but the necessary components are not stuffed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegaLargeDMDControllerFront.jpg ‎|300px|left|thumb|Data East Dot Matrix Controller Board used on Maverick, Baywatch, Mary Shelley&#039;s Frankenstein, and Batman Forever]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegaLargeDMDControllerBack.jpg ‎|300px|right|thumb|The solder side...]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
237-0139-00 - Used with &amp;quot;large&amp;quot; sized 192 x 64 dot matrix displays. The two ceramic caps on the solder side of the board were added at the factory. Note that the populated fuse clips and installed 5A slo-blo fuse are not needed, nor are they installed on most boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Satellite Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====Shaker Motor Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Sega 520-5065-00 Shaker Motor Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Data East / Sega 520-5065-00 Shaker Motor Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shaker motor board part number 520-5065-00. This single sided board is pretty simple. However, being a single sided board, it is subject to fractured solder joints on the large current limiting cement resistors. If your shaker motor is not shaking, remove this board and check for failed solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Magnet Control Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 520-5068-00 Mag Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Data East / Sega 520-5068-00 Magnet Control Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
520-5068-00 - Used on games such as Last Action Hero and Guns &#039;N Roses&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments.  Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems.  The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly&#039;s Frankenstein.]]  The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ease-A-Just====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines.  The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door.  The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch.  To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button.  If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu.  If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu.  Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics.  All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]]  To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button.  This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Setting Free Play=====&lt;br /&gt;
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a &#039;Expand Adjustments&#039; section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position.  This will put you in &#039;Audit&#039; mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically &#039;Expand Adjustments&#039;. Change this adjustment to &#039;Yes&#039; to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button. See: [[Data_East/Sega#Expand_Audits_and_Expand_Adjustments| Expand Audits and Expand Adjustments]], below.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Portals ====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Portals&amp;quot; is the name that Data East/Sega gave to what other manufactures called Audits and Adjustments. Typically, &amp;quot;portals&amp;quot; will provide &amp;quot;generic adjustments&amp;quot; along with game specific adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A brief explanation of the Portals system is in each game manual.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Setting the Level and Pitch of a Data East Game===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Apron Levels.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Bubble Levels Located Underneath the Left Apron Card]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The game pitch and &amp;quot;left/right&amp;quot; level indicator is sometimes located under the left apron information card.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Entering Diagnostics or Audits ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEDiagnosticButtons.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Data East used only two coin door buttons to enter diagnostics or audits/adjustments.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The two buttons pictured at left allow the operator to enter the Data East built in diagnostics or audits. The green button is an up/down latching button. When the button is latched in the down position, pressing the black button will cause the game to enter diagnostics. When the button is in the up position, pressing the black button will cause the game to enter audits &amp;amp; adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Expand Audits and Expand Adjustments===&lt;br /&gt;
The Data East Audits and Adjustments settings are limited to a subset of the all that can actually be set. The &amp;quot;menu&amp;quot; can be &amp;quot;expanded&amp;quot; to review and/or change additional parameters by selecting the &amp;quot;Expand Audits&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Expand Adjusts&amp;quot; option. When this option is presented, press the game start button. Additional Audits and Adjustments may then be accessed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Data East &amp;quot;Expand&amp;quot; Options&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DEExpandAudits.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;The &amp;quot;Expand Audits&amp;quot; menu option.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DEExpandAdjustments.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;The &amp;quot;Expand Adjustments&amp;quot; menu option.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===ROM Size and CPU Jumper Settings===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE CPU ROM Jumpers.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Location of Jumpers J4 &amp;amp; J5 on Data East CPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
There is a &#039;&#039;&#039;simple rule&#039;&#039;&#039; of thumb for J4 and J5 jumper settings.  This rule applies to all games which use either the version 2 or version 3 CPU board.  If two game PROM chips are used at position 5B and 5C, jumper J4 must be installed and jumper J5 must be removed.  This applies to games from Laser War to Batman.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a single game PROM chip is used at position 5C, jumper J5 must be installed and jumper J4 must be removed.  This applies to games from Star Trek 25th Anniversary to Batman Forever.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The exception to the rule is Laser War.  If a version 1 CPU is used in Laser War, only PROM chip 5C is used.  The jumper settings should be J4, J6a, and J7a installed, and J5, J6, and J7b removed.  If a version 2 CPU is used in Laser War, and PROMs are used at positions 5B and 5C, jumpers J4, J5a, and J6a must be installed.  Likewise, jumpers J5, J5b, and J6b must be removed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Burning Dual ROMs into a Single 5C ROM (aka &amp;quot;The Easy&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;TM&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Button&amp;quot;)====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an easy and convenient way to eliminate futzing with jumpers after the first the time. That is to install jumper J5, remove jumper J4, and burn the game&#039;s software into a single 27512 EPROM. The Data East &amp;quot;Test PROM&amp;quot; works with this configuration as does Leon&#039;s Test ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The general command to accomplish this in a &amp;quot;DOS box&amp;quot; is...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*copy /b ROM-at-5B-Image.256 + ROM-at-5C-Image.256 SINGLE-ROM-at-5C-Image.512&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For earlier games, like &amp;quot;The Simpsons&amp;quot;, that used a 27128 at location 5B, simply double the 27128 image during the copy command to fill the entire 27512 image. That is...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*copy /b ROM-at-5B-Image.128 + ROM-at-5B-Image.128 + ROM-at-5C-Image.256 SINGLE-ROM-at-5C-Image.512&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Fuse Clips====&lt;br /&gt;
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders.  These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. They cannot be repaired, and should be replaced when cracked.  The clips do have a correct orientation.  When installing them make sure the &amp;quot;tabs&amp;quot; on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.  Inserting a blown fuse between the clips when installing new ones helps with achieving the required spacing, and ensuring that the clips do not get installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fuse clips are located on the power supply, playfield power board (PPB), solid state flipper board, and some of the satellite boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====PPB Board Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
Common issues include:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Burnt GI connector [[#Burned_Connectors]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Dead or shorted TIP36C transistor&lt;br /&gt;
* Bad / broken fuse clips&lt;br /&gt;
* Cracked header pins (cold solder joints)&lt;br /&gt;
* Burnt board from overfusing fuse F5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Fuses on the PPB Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
The documentation for the PPB board in several Data East games is very lacking.  In some cases, the fuse value is not illustrated, while in other cases, the fuses are not even shown in the schematics at all.  The fuse values should be the following:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*F1 - 5A Slo-Blo (GI Lamp Circuit)&lt;br /&gt;
*F2 - 5A Slo-Blo (GI Lamp Circuit)&lt;br /&gt;
*F3 - 5A Slo-Blo (GI Lamp Circuit)&lt;br /&gt;
*F4 - 5A Slo-Blo (GI Lamp Circuit)&lt;br /&gt;
*F5 - 5A Slo-Blo (50V Coils - Pre Bridge Rectifier BR1)&lt;br /&gt;
*F6 - 5A Slo-Blo (32V Flashers - Post Relay)&lt;br /&gt;
*F7 - 3A Slo-Blo (32V Coils and Flashers - Pre Relay)&lt;br /&gt;
*F8 - 4A Slo-Blo (50V Coils - Post Bridge Rectifier BR1)&lt;br /&gt;
*F9 - 5A Slo-Blo (50V Coils - Including Flippers - Post Bridge Rectifier)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Early PPB boards did not have fuse designations at F7, F8, and F9&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Rectifier Fuses====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Fuses_Added_Before_Lamp_Solenoid_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LaserWarBridges.jpg|right|thumb|300px|The two bridge rectifiers used on Laser War. Note that the left bridge has been replaced and that fuses have not been installed (yet).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A design flaw copied from the Williams design was the lack of fuses on the two bridge rectifiers used for the solenoid and controlled lamp power.  In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game should blow, but that&#039;s not always the case.  If the primary power fuse fails to blow, the wiring from the transformer to the bridge becomes the fuse.  The end result is not pretty!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Only Laser War and Secret Service are affected by this. For the solenoid bridge, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp slo-blo fuse installed. For the controlled lamp bridge, install a fuse holder with an 8 amp slo-blo fuse on one of its AC lines too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply Issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Voltage Selection Jumper Pinout====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 9 pin connectors used are Molex 19-09-2099 (butterfly connection w/jumpers) and Molex 19-09-1099 (connection on transformer pigtail).&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPowerSelectionJumpers120V.jpg|300px|thumb|left|9 Pin DE Transformer Power Configuration, configured for US 115V systems.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:230VDEPowerSelection.jpg|300px|thumb|right|9 Pin DE Transformer Power Configuration, configured for European 230V systems. Pins 3 and 9 are jumped together.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Jumper settings for 115V should be as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 1 - black - 115v &amp;quot;hot&amp;quot; input&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 7 - white - 115v &amp;quot;neutral&amp;quot; input&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 2 and 3 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 8 and 9 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Similarity to the Williams System 11 Power Supply ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Data East Power Supply is very similar to the Williams System 11 Power Supply. It creates (or passes on) all of the voltages necessary for the game to operate, including...&lt;br /&gt;
*5VDC for the MPU (12VDC is not used / needed with a Data East MPU board - no &amp;quot;on board&amp;quot; sound circuitry and reset circuit only uses 5VDC)&lt;br /&gt;
*5, 12, 68, -98, and -110VDC for the Dot Matrix Display (for games with a standard 128 x 32 or a small 128 x 16 DMD display)&lt;br /&gt;
*18VDC for the lamp matrix&lt;br /&gt;
*34VDC for coils&lt;br /&gt;
*6VAC (or so) for general illumination lamps&lt;br /&gt;
*5, 12, and -12VDC for the sound board&lt;br /&gt;
*5VDC for the DMD controller board (games which use a standard 128 x 32 DMD display)&lt;br /&gt;
*12VDC for the large 192 x 64 DMD display&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The power supply also contains a 24VDC relay used to turn general illumination on/off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 5VDC power circuit explained...&lt;br /&gt;
*The board receives about 9VAC at CN1, pins 10 and 11.&lt;br /&gt;
*9VAC is full wave rectified into about 12 and -12VDC by the bridge rectifier at DB1.&lt;br /&gt;
*The 9VAC continues to capacitor C2, a 100uf/25V electrolytic cap that is used as part of a voltage doubler circuit that provides operating power for the LM723 5V regulator.  D2, D3 and C3 comprise the remaining components of the Greinacher type voltage doubler.  Failure of any of these four components will cut power to the LM723 regulator and affect 5VDC operation.&lt;br /&gt;
*Unregulated 12VDC is presented to the LM723 5V regulator at pins 11 and 12.&lt;br /&gt;
*R6 is used for short circuit detection. Under ideal conditions (output not shorted or overloaded), there should be a very small voltage drop across R6. If the power supply is shorted -- there will be a large voltage drop across R6.  Pin 3 of the regulator will detect the difference and turn down the series pass transistor TR5 in the presence of a shorted output.&lt;br /&gt;
*R2 and R3 are connected to the LM723 in a voltage dividing configuration. R2 and R3 together with R4 establish the output voltage levels (5VDC)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;quot;Arcing&amp;quot; on the 520-5000-00 Power Supply ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-PS-520-5000-00-Rehabbed.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A rehabbed DE 520-5000-00 Power Supply that exhibited arcing due to a leaky electrolytic capacitor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEcorrodedPS.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The corroded DE 520-5000-00 Power Supply prior to rehab. The area where power arced is clearly burned (circled in yellow), and liquid electrolyte can be seen near the bottom of the board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A problem that might be unique to this particular version of the Data East power supply is that sometimes an electrolytic capacitor on the board will leak, arcing, and creating a short between the horizontal trace and a &amp;quot;via&amp;quot; circled at left. This shorts high voltage to the -12VDC power circuit and may result in C53 on the sound board being damaged. Sometimes, the electrolyte on the board will cause it to &amp;quot;sparkle&amp;quot; when power is turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that in the picture, the trace has been partially removed, along with the through hole, and a jumper placed on the back of the board connecting the bottom (unbanded side) of D8 to the left side of the 680 ohm resistor at R13 (shown with the red line). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The electrolytic contents as well as any carbon created by the arcing must be completely removed, necessitating a radical traceectomy like this at times.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPSCloseUp.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of yet another 520-5000-00 power supply with a electrolytic cap at C7. The damage hasn&#039;t caused a problem on this board yet, but soon will.]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Missing 5VDC - Leaky C2====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DESmallDMDPSPartsIdentification.jpg|300px|thumb|left|An overview of the DE small DMD power supply components.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An overview of the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking5VPSCapacitorGodsEyeCaptioned.jpg|300px|thumb|left|God&#039;s eye view of capacitor C2, leaking.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking5VPSCapacitor.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A second view of C2, leaking.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A common reason for the lack of 5VDC is failure of the capacitor at C2. This 100uf/25V cap sometimes fails and begins to leak it&#039;s contents onto the circuit board. After a period of time, the caustic contents of the cap begin to eat into the board&#039;s copper traces. Eventually, the 5V generation path is severed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPSEatenTraceAtC2.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of trace completely severed at C2.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEC2OnAlphaNumericBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Closeup of trace completely severed at C2 on an Alphanumeric version of the power supply.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
These pictures show the 5VDC trace completely severed by the hungry caustic leakage from C2 (left) and enough damage to cause the circuit to open (right).&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEPowerSupply5VDCSectionCaptioned.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A portion of the DE Power Supply schematic, with C2 circled.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note C2, circled in the schematics at left, and it&#039;s position in the 5V generation path. It&#039;s failure interrupts the path.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DELM723Position.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The LM723 5VDC voltage regulator.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another common cause for loss of 5VDC power is failure of the LM723 regulator. Measure and compare the DC voltage at pins 4 and 5 of the regulator relative to board ground. If the voltages differ, the regulator has failed. Socket and replace the regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Low or Missing 5VDC====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have low or missing 5VDC, the game may reset or will generally not function properly. Several components could be the root cause for this condition. Ordered in probability of failure, examine...&lt;br /&gt;
*fuses at F1 and F2, both 7ASB fuses. Remove them and buzz them with an ohmmeter. If blown, replace and retest. If one or both blow again at power on, there is a good chance that the bridge rectifier is shorted. &lt;br /&gt;
*C2 (100uf 25v), C3 (47uf 63V), and C7 (330uf 25V). These caps tend to leak their corrosive contents on the PCB and kill the 5VDC circuit. Replacing these three caps is always recommended when 5VDC problems occur.&lt;br /&gt;
*bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501). Test the bridge first. Lug style bridges are tough to remove while avoiding board damage. &lt;br /&gt;
*LM723 voltage regulator. If the DC voltage with respect to ground at pins 4 and 5 differ, the regulator has failed. &lt;br /&gt;
*TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board (use 2N6059 or 2N6284 to replace obsolete 2N6057), &lt;br /&gt;
*C1 (1000uf 25V) can also be replaced when you have problems with the -12V supply too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another condition affecting the 5VDC power circuit is failure of the 18,000uf/25V smoothing capacitor at C4. This cap is probably way past it&#039;s spec life. Replacing it is advised. While the original capacitor was specified at 18,000uf, the more common 15,000uf/25V cap will work fine in this application.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Burned Connector Pins====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurnedPin10DEPowerSupply.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Burned 9VAC input pin. Often this pin is burned to a crisp. This one isn&#039;t too bad.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEBurnedCN1.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A common &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot; was to cut the wire of the burned connector, then solder that wire directly to the back of the board. Ouch! Not recommended.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 position &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector (CN1), which provides AC power input from the transformer secondary, often ends up with burned pins. Complete replacement of this connector is recommended should it become burned. The female housing may be reused, but it&#039;s good practice to repin both sides of a burned connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a pinch, &amp;quot;male&amp;quot; header pins on the CN1 wafer may be swapped with &amp;quot;male&amp;quot; header pins at CN2, pins 1, 2, 4, or 5, as those pins are never used.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-WMS-System11PSCN1Alternative.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The severely burned wafer connector at CN1 here has been replaced with parts currently available. Pins 5 and 8 are not populated as those connections are not used.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 position &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector (CN1), can be replaced with currently available parts, shown at left. The original &amp;quot;wafers&amp;quot; are difficult to find and pricey.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GIOutputPinBurn.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Crispy General Illumination Power Connector. This connector should be replaced immediately.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Data East general illumination power connectors, like many other game systems, tend to burn from long hours of continuous use at current levels higher than the connectors can handle. These connectors are caught in a death spiral of heat &amp;amp; tarnish which increases resistance, which increases current draw, which increases heat and tarnish, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only sure correction for these connectors is complete replacement of both the male and female connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DESmallDMDPSMJE340Replacement.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A Small DMD display, with traces designed to use the MJE340 and MJE350 transistors. The MJE350 on the right (at TR4) has been replaced by an MJE15031, necessitating reversal of the part and heat sink.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections discuss using an MJE340/350 in place of an MJE15030/1 or vice-versa. While these transistors are interchangeable, if one is used to replace the other in a board specifically designed for one type, the part must be reversed. This will necessitate reversing the heat sink also, as shown at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DESmallDMDPSMJE340-350.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A Small DMD power supply, which uses MJE340 and MJE350 transistors at TR3 and TR4 (the parts screwed to heat sinks).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The small DMD power supply uses MJE340 and MJE350 transistors to create the high voltages. Note the lack of the larger &amp;quot;tab&amp;quot; heat sinks that the beefier MJE15030 and MJE15031 parts feature.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Testing DMD HV Power=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingDMDVoltagesAtTheDMDConnector.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Testing DMD Display voltages at the display]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
After you&#039;ve checked the easy things, measure the voltages supplied by the DMD controller to the DMD display panel. To test the DMD controller voltages, first open the backbox, and rest the DMD panel face down on the glass. The simplest place to test the voltages provided by the DMD controller is at the display end of the power wire bundle as shown in the picture. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;SAFETY WARNING: Your left hand should be in your pocket, to avoid a potentially serious shock. We are working with high voltages, so be VERY CAREFUL. Keeping one hand in your pocket is a good practice to follow as it eliminates the easy electric current pathway across your heart. A DMD controller provides enough electric current to kill you!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:OverDrivenDMDDisplay.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A manifestation of overdriving a DMD with too much voltage.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Most high voltage problems are lack of the proper voltage levels. This results in no display at all. It is possible however, for the high voltage circuitry to fail in such a way that too much voltage is supplied. This manifests as a &amp;quot;plasma&amp;quot; look on the display, as shown on the left. Note that this looks very much like an outgassed display.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The dot matrix display needs three voltages to operate. You can find the specification for a panel [http://www.vishay.com/docs/37006/apd128g.pdf here]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Place the black lead of the DMM under the ground braid in the game&#039;s head or use clip leads to secure the black lead to ground. Remember, you are working one-handed, so this becomes a necessity. Place the red lead of your DMM on each of the pins supplying power as shown in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;nominal voltage&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Anode        || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;-110V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;12VDC Offset&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;-98V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Must be 12V less than anode voltage. Will be about 20V less than anode voltage if display not connected&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Key          || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||                             ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground       || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||                             ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground       || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||                             ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;5VDC         || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;5V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;   ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;12VDC        || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;12V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Cathode      || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;68V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LowHVSupply.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Measuring for 68VDC, and finding only 19.95VDC. The result of this low component of the high voltage trio can be seen in the picture. The manifestation is similar to an outgassed display. The display is showing &amp;quot;FREE PLAY&amp;quot;. Note: this is a Williams display but the procedure is identical for Data East games.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the high voltages are off by more than a few volts, turn the game off, disconnect the power connector at the DMD controller, and test the voltages at the power supply male header pins. If the voltages return to nominal DE voltages, the zener diodes on the DMD controller are probably OK but the resistors and transistors around them are suspect. As shown in the table above, if DMD controller power is not connected to the display, the nominal 12VDC offset will be about 20VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that a failing or failed DMD display glass can drag these voltages down. Before you begin any work on the power supply board, perform the above test with the DMD display power disconnected. If the voltages return to nominal WPC voltages, it&#039;s possible that your display is the culprit. Test the DMD power with a known good display to isolate the fault to either the DMD power or to the display panel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the 68V and -110V circuits Data East copied their relatively sophisticated regulator circuit. The problem is, the resistors and diodes dissipate quite a lot of heat. In a warm operating environment, this leads to burned components and circuit boards. The board traces are often weakened. Repair in the area is tricky.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing +68V for DMD Display Power=====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Warning&#039;&#039;&#039; Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Assuming it&#039;s not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode.  Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it&#039;s a penny part and probably stressed.  Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Measurements are with respect to ground.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
You should now  have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5.  Test for +68v output.&lt;br /&gt;
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7.  Test for -110v and -98v DC output.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load.  It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can&#039;t test then replace them.  Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail.  C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v.  You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask.  This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.&lt;br /&gt;
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;&#039;The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |+68v circuit&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Equivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|MJE340&amp;amp;dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1n4760B ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &amp;amp;dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check values of the above resistors.  Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.&lt;br /&gt;
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.&lt;br /&gt;
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.&lt;br /&gt;
If the 3.9v zener has failed it will take out TR1 and TR3. Trying to replace the transistors first will be a frustrating exercise as they will keep blowing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing -110V or -98V for DMD Display Power=====&lt;br /&gt;
Follow a similar procedure to the one above.  The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly &#039;mirror images&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A missing -98v DC output only while reading -110v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec.  Then replace D11 &#039;&#039;&#039;observing banded side for polarity&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The Circuit for -110 and -98 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |-110v / -98v circuit&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Equivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|MJE350&amp;amp;dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &amp;amp;dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check values of the above resistors.  Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.&lt;br /&gt;
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.&lt;br /&gt;
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.&lt;br /&gt;
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -98v circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |-98v circuit only&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Equivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Board Issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence at Boot Up When Working Properly====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De cpu marked LEDs.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Data East CPU - Location of diagnostic LEDs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues.  The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:&lt;br /&gt;
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately&lt;br /&gt;
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates&lt;br /&gt;
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.&lt;br /&gt;
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; |PIA LED Flash Sequence&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!PIA LED&lt;br /&gt;
!Suspect Component&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || 5D&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM  || 5B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || 5C&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When the PIA LED stays on, do not assume that one of the 6821 PIAs is bad. A boot failure due to a completely unrelated error might just have occured.  In fact, a bad CPU chip may cause a boot failure where the PIA LED stays on and the Blanking LED never illuminates.  If the CPU chip is bad, the hard-to-find original 6808 CPU can be replaced with an easier to find 6802 CPU.  The CPU board will disable the 6802&#039;s internal RAM since it ties pin 36 to ground, which effectively makes it work just like a 6808 CPU. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you bench test the board you can also use WMS System 11A to 11C roms to check it out. The diagnostic routine is much superior to the one in the DE rom. If you use WMS U26 and U27 roms J4 must be set. You can combine both roms into a 27512 in which case J5 needs to be set on the DE CPU. Everything will work. Some of the special solenoids are connected to different pins but for bench testing who cares? V2 and later DE boards use a 8K ram. The WMS software will not be able to dectect errors in ram space above the 2K limit. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Operation at Boot Up When Working Properly====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Alphanumeric Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
This is a stub.&lt;br /&gt;
=====Small 128 x 16 DMD Display=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Sm DMD Boot Disp Ver.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Data East &amp;quot;small&amp;quot; DMD Display display code version]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Sm DMD Boot CPU Ver.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Data East &amp;quot;small&amp;quot; DMD Display CPU code version]]&lt;br /&gt;
When a Data East game with a small 128 x 16 DMD display is powered on, the first thing shown on the screen is the display code version. Next, the CPU code version is displayed. This information is provided so the operator can verify the correct display and game software versions are installed. Once the display and game code versions have been displayed and the game has successfully booted, the controlled lamps should start to &amp;quot;dance&amp;quot;. The game is now in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Standard 128 x 32 DMD Display=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Std DMD Display Version.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Data East Standard DMD Display display code version]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Std DMD CPU Version.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Data East Standard DMD Display CPU code version]]&lt;br /&gt;
When a Data East game with a standard 128 x 32 DMD display is powered on, the first thing shown on the screen is the display code version. Next, the CPU code version is displayed. This information is provided so the operator can verify the correct display and game software versions are installed. Once the display and game code versions have been displayed and the game has successfully booted, the controlled lamps should start to &amp;quot;dance&amp;quot;. The game is now in attract mode. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Large 192 x 64 DMD Display=====&lt;br /&gt;
TBD.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Open the Door Message====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Sm DMD Open Door Message.JPG|thumb|left|300px|&amp;quot;Open the Door!&amp;quot; Message upon boot up (128 x 16 DMD)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Games with the smaller 128 x 16 DMD display will sometimes display a message at power up, which states &amp;quot;OPEN THE DOOR!&amp;quot;.  The game is requiring the user to open the coin door, before allowing the game to successfully complete the boot process.  The purpose of the message is to alert the user, that the backup RAM memory has not been preserved since the last power down. Possible reasons for the memory not being preserved are:&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Batteries are not installed.&lt;br /&gt;
*The batteries are providing insufficient power to retain the memory.&lt;br /&gt;
*The batteries are installed incorrectly and not providing power to the RAM memory.&lt;br /&gt;
*The battery holder is not functioning properly or has been compromised.&lt;br /&gt;
*The batteries have leaked.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Std DMD Open the Door.JPG|thumb|left|300px|&amp;quot;Open the Door&amp;quot; Message upon boot up (128 x 32 DMD)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
This message appears on some games with 128 x 32 standard DMD displays too (not 100% if all games have this or not).  In addition to the message on the DMD, the controlled lamps will not strobe until the boot sequence has successfully completed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You should be able to open the coin door then close the door, and the game will complete boot up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you&#039;ve ruled out the batteries (as stated above) as the reason for seeing this message, there are other possible causes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, check diode D25 which is located just to the right of the batteries. You can remove the batteries and check the diode with your meter set to &amp;quot;diode check&amp;quot; the traditional way. Or, you could set your meter to DC volts, place the black lead on the ground TP at the top of the board, and place the red lead on the banded side of D25. Your meter should read about 4.2VDC. Now move the red lead to the non-banded side of D25. Your meter should read about 4.6VDC. The difference between 4.2VDC and 4.6VDC is the typical .5 to .7 VDC drop across the diode. If that voltage drop isn&#039;t measured, or the firs measurement was zero, then the diode has failed open and is not allowing battery backup current to flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, measure for about 4.2VDC on the bottom right pin for the RAM at location 5D.  RAM 5D is located just below the game ROM. If you measure 4.2VDC at D25 and not at RAM 5D, then there is a break in the PCB trace between the two, or the RAM socket has failed, or the RAM isn&#039;t seated well. The chip can sometimes be moved when the game ROM is changed due to their proximity on the board. If you&#039;ve completed all these steps successfully and you still see the &#039;Open the Door&#039; message, there is a good possibility that the RAM chip at location 5D has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the Battery from the MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE_CPU_Battery_Damage.JPG|300px|thumb|left|The aftermath of batteries which leaked]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE CPU Battery Damage Marked.JPG|300px|thumb|right|A detailed view of the extent of damage done.  Note that the area inside the yellow rectangle is potentially at risk]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3xAA batteries off the MPU board or installing other alternatives for memory retention is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One option is to install a remote battery holder, and place the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another option is to install a memory capacitor.  This method is considered to be better than a remote battery holder, because memory capacitors are not prone to leakage like alkaline batteries.  The only drawback is that the memory capacitor has to be properly recharged to be effective.  If a game has the potential of sitting dormate without being turned on for extended periods (typically months), the memory capacitor may not hold the memory.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A third option is to install a lithium battery with a battery holder.  Lithium batteries are much less likely to leak than alkaline batteries, and they do not need to be recharged.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE CPU Remote Battery Holder.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Data East MPU Board with Remote Battery Pack]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea.  In doing this, the battery pack can easily be removed from the MPU board.  Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board may not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement.  If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position.  Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead.  This will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D25 on the MPU board fails.  Keep in mind that an added secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory, if D25 is still good.  Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
On the MPU, solder the battery cables: positive (red wire) to the bottom right pad and ground (black wire) to the middle right pad.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE CPU D23 D25 Battery TP.JPG|300px|thumb|left|D23 and D25 Diodes Highlighted on a Data East Version 3 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D25 blocking diode.  An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective.  Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack.  This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on.  Alkaline batteries do not like being charged.  They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly).  In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged.  Testing the D25 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out.  When in doubt, replace the D25 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack.  Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory, if D25 is still good.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing the D23 diode is a good idea too.  The D23 (1N5817) diode is used to keep the backup batteries from powering the MPU board when the power is off.  Evidence of a failed D23 diode are batteries which fail prematurely.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the &#039;&#039;&#039;B+&#039;&#039;&#039; test point on MPU board.  All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; are somewhat common.  Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing a Lithium &amp;quot;Button Cell&amp;quot; Battery====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEButtonCell.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A CR2032 installed in lieu of the typical 3 AA batteries.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another option to replace the OEM three battery pack is to use a button cell battery holder and a CR2032 lithium battery. Lithium batteries deplete differently than alkaline batteries. They tend to hold their original 3V for their entire useful life rather than decaying slowly. Once they&#039;ve been depleted, the 3V power falls off rapidly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some button cell holders are perfectly suited for Data East MPUs. The two connection points fit directly through the available connection points on the board. Solder the positive side of the battery holder to the lower connection point. When using a lithium battery, D25 must remain in place.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing a Remote Battery on a Laser War MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DELaserWarBattery.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A CR2032 installed in lieu of the typical 3 AA batteries, on the first revision of Data East MPU used ONLY in &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Laser War&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. Note the &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; connecting upper left and lower left battery through holes.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU in Data East&#039;s first game, Laser War, used a WMS style 3AA battery holder with all batteries oriented in one direction. The traces on the board were identical to WMS MPUs, connecting positive to negative across the batteries. This necessitates different connections when remotely locating the battery or installing a coin cell battery, as shown in the image at left. An alternative when using a wired remote holder (for instance) is to connect the positive battery lead to the upper right through hole and the negative battery lead to the lower left through hole (B1 + to B3 -)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing a Memory Capacitor Instead of Batteries====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Mem Cap Installed.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Installation of an &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; Style Memory Capacitor, and replacing D25 with a wire jumper.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A memory capacitor is a great choice for memory retention, provided that the game will be turned on more frequently than not.  If the game will not be turned on for several months, the memory cap may not stay charged.  In turn, the memory may not be retained.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is recommended to use a 1F or greater (Farad) 5.5v &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; style memory capacitor.  Other styles of memory caps will work, but an H style fits perfectly into the existing &amp;quot;+&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;-&amp;quot; holes where the factory battery holder was installed.  When using a memory cap, blocking diode D25 must be removed (or jumped), and a 0 ohm jumper should be installed.  The purpose of removing the diode is to allow the memory cap to be charged when the game is turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DESuperCapFront.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Installation of a &amp;quot;Pi&amp;quot; Style Memory Capacitor, component side of board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DESuperCapBack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Installation of a &amp;quot;Pi&amp;quot; Style Memory Capacitor, solder side of board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another style of memory cap has both leads coming out the bottom, spaced about 1/4&amp;quot; apart, and looks like the mathematic symbol for &amp;quot;pi&amp;quot; when viewed from the side. The original holes for the positive battery connection on the PCB can be quite handy for installing this type of cap. Insert the positive lead of the cap through the small hole and the negative lead of the cap through the large hole. On the solder side of the board, cut the trace between the small and large holes, and add a jumper as shown in the picture on the right. The jumper connects the negative lead of the cap to board ground. The same jumper mentioned above, replacing D25, is also required.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; Installing a 120 ohm (or so) resistor in place of the jumper (where the D25 diode was originally installed) prevents the memory capacitor from being the equivalent of a dead short when it initially charges. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Data East CPU Board Alkaline Damage Area====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEAlkalineDamageImage-Wiki.jpg|thumb|300px|left|A handy guide to assist component replacement at alkaline damage ground zero.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So...you didn&#039;t get those batteries off the MPU board...for shame...for shame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The diagram at left shows the component parts you may need to clean up the board. Typical alkaline damage abatement methods should be used (vinegar wash, scrub with brass brush, rinse vinegar away with isopropyl alcohol or LOTS of water, sand as necessary). Be sure to check under the 6808 processor socket for damage also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note some component parts are a bit odd, like the 33.2K resistor. A 33K resistor may be safely substituted.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blanking Signal Stuck Low or Pulsing====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De cpu mark up.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Data East CPU Board - Key Circuits Identified. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Jim Palson&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking signal is a fail safe interlock with critical game functions including the display, sounds, lamp matrix, and solenoids. It prevents operation of each of these game features to protect the game circuitry in the event of a system failure. For instance, if the MPU is not running, and the lamp matrix is stuck on at a particular row or column, those parts will heat up quickly, and at the very least damage that circuitry. Coils remaining locked on could cause even larger damage to the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the game functions listed above require the blanking signal to be high (&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not pulsing but always high&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;) to operate. As an example, the solenoid driver circuitry logically &amp;quot;ands&amp;quot; the blanking signal with solenoid commands using a 7408 AND gates (at 1J, 2J, 3J, and 4J).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of blanking, with the blanking LED never lighting, means that the game program is not running. It either never started running, locked up due to an invalid ROM image or a problem with the data, address, control, or chip select signals on the MPU, or detected a problem with the RAM memory.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-C87.jpg|thumb|left|300px|C87, a timing element for the 555 timer. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
In rare cases, C87 can fail. C87 holds the input to the 555 timer high between pulses from the display circuitry. This causes the blanking signal to pulse. A pulsing blanking signal can manifest in missing digits on the display, some lamp columns not being turned on, and possibly other issues. C87 is a 1uf tantalum capacitor. If the blanking signal is pulsing, replace C87.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When repairing the battery damage, sometimes R3 needs to be replaced too. Note: Be sure to use a 33K resistor (three orange rings). Due to age and fade, the resistor can appear to have 3 rings of red (a 2K2 resistor), but this is incorrect. A low resistor (such as 2K2) will also cause the blanking signal to pulse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BlankingSignalLogic.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Data East CPU Blanking Circuit. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will update the displays by sending data to the display 6821 PIA at 11B at regular intervals (every 2.8 msec).&lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 to pulse high periodically. The schematics call this signal &amp;quot;TG&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at 6F, in at pin 9, out at pin 8.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C130 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q14 and to pin 2 of the 555 timer at 1C.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 555 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at 11B, the output of the 555 timer at pin 3 (and 7) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the longer, more detailed explanation, [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb75.pdf Stern service bulletin 75] provides the &amp;quot;Blanking Circuit Theory of Operation&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When operating properly, the pins of the 555 timer will behave as follows (pin number, logic signal)&lt;br /&gt;
#low&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing at the same rate as the 6821 PIA at 11B, pin 4&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing very rapidly. i.e. &amp;quot;ticking&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Data_East_CPU_Board_Repair Leon&#039;s Data East test ROM] runs correctly on an MPU, this guarantees that all data, address, and control signals are working correctly. If blanking doesn&#039;t go high with a game ROM installed, ensure the board is [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#ROM_Size_and_CPU_Jumper_Settings jumpered] to match the ROM configuration and ensure that the ROM images are valid. Those two possibilities are by far the most probable once Leon&#039;s ROM runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Reset Signal Stuck Low ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De cpu mark up.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Data East CPU Board - Key Circuits Identified]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal operation of the reset signal at pin 40 of the 6802/6808 at 3D is to start low, then go high after a split second. Detection of this low to high transition isn&#039;t possible with the typical logic probe (ala Elenco LP-560). Reset signal failure is almost always caused by alkaline corrosion on the reset generator (IC1) or the resistors and traces in that area.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clock Signal Detection====&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU&#039;s clock signal is provided by an 8Mhz oscillator at location 3C. The clock signal can be detected as a logic pulse at pin 12 of the 74LS107 at location 2F. While it would seem logical that the same pulse could be detected with a logic probe at pin 2 of the 74LS107 and at pin 39 of the 6802/6808, this isn&#039;t usually the case. A more sensitive oscilloscope can however detect the signal. Generally, if the signal is present at pin 12 of the 74LS107, unless alkaline corrosion is present, it can be assumed that the signal is also present at pin 39 of the 6802/6808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Connecting a Logic Probe to CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De cpu 5v ground.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Data East CPU Board - 5V and Ground Test Points]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De cpu power logic probe.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Data East CPU Board - Logic Probe and PC Power Supply Connected]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder&#039;s upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17.  Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Using a PC Power Supply for Bench Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De cpu 5v ground.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Data East CPU Board - 5V and Ground Test Points]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:De cpu power logic probe.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Data East CPU Board - Logic Probe and PC Power Supply Connected]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The only voltage needed to power a Data East CPU on the bench is +5VDC.  Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder&#039;s upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17.  Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Official Data East Test ROM====&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A video showing the operation of the Data East Factory Test ROM can be found [https://youtu.be/_SCvqhe0YkQ?si=OHL0WHxp5wxv3GGn &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With power off, replace the current CPU ROM chip with this diagnostic 27512 EPROM. Note the three LED lights in the center right of the board. The far right most LED will flash as the games powers up with this diagnostic EPROM installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are the flash codes.&lt;br /&gt;
Completion of a flash means the associated chip has passed the diagnostic test. For example, if the LED flashes four times then stays lit, chip 11D would be bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a long pause after flash one only. After all eight flashes, the EPROM will pulse all coils, lamps and flasher bulbs in the game, one at a time in succession.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The test ROM for Data East CPU boards has the following functions. When the Test ROM is installed into a CPU board and power applied, the CPU will perform power-up self tests and then immediately go into burn-in cycles with no intervention. It is not required that the Test button be pressed in order to initiate burn-in cycles.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The power up self-test will check major components on the CPU board and flash the LED as each one appears normal. If any fail, the LED will stay on. The tests consist of a checksum test of the ROM and read/write test of the RAM and the PIA&#039;s. The PIA test will NOT check both sides of all PIA&#039;s since certain PIA ports are designed to be inputs and the loading on those ports will determine the data seen by the CPU. However, those ports designed to be outputs will be written to and read from in order that basic go/no-go functionality can be checked.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Flash -- Chip Location Tested&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1 -- C5 (ROM checksum)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2 -- D5 (RAM read/write)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3 -- 5F (PIA1 solenoid read/write $2100)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4 -- 8H (PIA5 switch read/write $3002)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5 -- 11D (PIA2 lamp read/write $2402)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6 -- 11B (PIA3 display2 read/write $2802)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7 -- 9B (PIA4 display1 read/write $2C02)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
8 -- 7B (PIA6 sound read/write $3402)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The burn-in test will cycle through the solenoids, lamps, display and sounds like the present burn-in, with the following exceptions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The solenoid cycling will go through all the solenoid matrix positions.&lt;br /&gt;
*The lamps will go through all the patterns of rows and columns, as well as individual lamps; any shorts or opens will be easily seen on a test set lamp matrix board.&lt;br /&gt;
*If any matrix switches become closed, the lamp patterns will stop for a time. The lamp(s) corresponding to the matrix position of any closed switch(es) will be turned on. This facilitates testing of the switch matrix. A short time after the switch matrix becomes clear the lamps will go back to patterns. This also means that if any switch matrix position appears closed on power-up, the corresponding lamps will be turned on after the power-on self tests for a visual indication of where problems are located.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Written by Neil Falconer of Data East, 1/6/93&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp Issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Illumination Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
The single largest issue with general illumination lighting in Data East games, like Williams System 11 games, is burned GI connectors at the power supply. Repinning both sides of the connector is the best solution. Be sure to use &amp;quot;trifurcon&amp;quot; crimp pins in the female .156 9-pin connector housing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire Color at CN8&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1 (top)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DataEastGIConnectonAtPS.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A nicely repinned General Illumination (GI) connector on a Data East Power Supply.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DataEastGIConnectonAtPPB.jpg|300px|thumb|right|This GI connection at the PPB Board shows heat stress. Both the male and female sides of this connector should be replaced.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
General illumination power is sourced at the power supply board located in the upper left side of the game head. AC power comes in via a 4-pin connection at CN9. A GI relay cube on the power supply is under CPU control to switch all GI power on/off during game play. Power leaves the board at CN8, a nine pin connector (4x GI circuits plus a keying pin) and is routed through the PPB board to add fuse protection. The circuitry on the PPB board does nothing other than add fuse protection. The power enters the PPB board at J5. Each of the 4 separate GI power lanes is fused on the board. GI power then exits the PPB board through the same connector (J5). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The male connector on the PPB board (J5) is subject to cracked solder joints since the board is single sided. If you are experiencing GI issues, in addition to checking for burned connectors, wiggling J5 on the PPB board will sometimes identify the source of the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEGIZConnector.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A Data East Z connector. This one in the GI circuit. The only thing missing here is some marshmallows.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEBurnedGIHeader.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The burned header pins on this Data East power supply prevented some of the GI circuits from working.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Data East also used &amp;quot;Z connectors&amp;quot; instead of the more typical &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; molex connectors. The example at left shows an extremely toasty GI connector between the backbox and the backbox lamp insert panel. Correct this by removing the connector completely. Solder each wire directly together, using heat shrink tubing to insulate. This connector facilitated cheap/fast manufacture and serves no purpose now, unless the user wants to remove the lamp board insert, which is highly unlikely.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Using MOSFETs in the Lamp Matrix Circuitry====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Procedure by Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The original Data East (and Williams) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting cement resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. Using modern MOSFETs (IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N), the heat (and power consumption) can be reduced substantially.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers. However, the problem with this modification is that the FETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating for this part of 20 VDC (this also holds for Williams System 11 MPUs). Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETSchematic.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation (left), &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation on right. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics shown at left compare the widely used &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation with the &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation that uses two 1K, 1/4 wat resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half. Doing so drives the MOSFET with a 9 VDC Vsg.&amp;lt;br  clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETComponentSide.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETSolderSide.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSFETInstallFront.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board. NOTE: Data East board shown. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Randy Boice&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSFETInstallBack.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Randy Boice&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network at RA8&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source. In the pictured implementation, the upper resistor is installed on the component side between the common connection from the resistor network that was removed and the gate.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Issues===&lt;br /&gt;
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics.  If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch has failed and displays a message when powered on.  Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn&#039;t been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches.  A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the PinWiki.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode.  It may be placed remotely at tie points underneath the playfield or on the switch itself, but a diode must be used.  Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Single Switch Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
#For micro-switches, make sure the switch lever still works.  You should hear a faint &amp;quot;click&amp;quot; when the lever is moved and the switch is activated.  You can sometimes form (bend) the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure.  Note that these switches can still be bad even when the click is audible.  The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually actuate the switch.  If the game does not report the switch closure 100% correctly, replace the switch and the diode. The micro-switch (180-5064-00) on the Vertical Up Kicker (VUK) can wear out. A replacement can be sourced from DigiKey as [http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&amp;amp;site=us&amp;amp;KeyWords=480-2381-ND 480-2381-ND] from Honeywell Sensing (MFG PN# V7-1C17D8-048). &lt;br /&gt;
#You can use a multimeter instead of the machine&#039;s built in switch test to test the switch. &lt;br /&gt;
##Set your DMM to continuity. &lt;br /&gt;
##Place one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode)&lt;br /&gt;
##Place the other lead on one of the other lugs.  &lt;br /&gt;
##The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated.  &lt;br /&gt;
##Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug.  &lt;br /&gt;
##The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.  &lt;br /&gt;
##Note that this test only tests the switch itself, not the circuitry responsible for reacting to a switch closure nor the wiring between the switch and other components.&lt;br /&gt;
#For leaf switches, make sure the contacts are adjusted properly.  You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly.  Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug.  Check your game&#039;s manual to be sure. Diodes do fail, but rarely. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4002 thru 1N4007 diodes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Complete (or most of a) Column/Row of Switches Not Working ====&lt;br /&gt;
If a complete column or row of switches are not working, determine first if the problem is on the CPU or out on the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====  On Board/Off Board Switch Matrix Problem Determination =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first step in diagnosing a switch matrix problem is to determine whether the problem is on the MPU or somewhere in the game wiring. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DESwitchColumnPulseTest.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Testing Data East MPU column drive circuitry using a logic probe.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing the MPU board&#039;s column drive circuitry can be done quickly with a logic probe. Connect your probe to the 5V and Ground test points at the top of the MPU. Probing through the back of the switch column connector (green wires) should result in an identical pulse with each position tested. Note that the higher columns may not be pulsed in games that don&#039;t use the full 8-by-8 switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DataEastSwitchMatrixTest.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Testing a Data East switch matrix operation by connecting a row to a column. Note that a diode is NOT necessary for this test.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing the complete MPU switch matrix circuitry requires a jumper wire with a conductor on each end (or at least bare wires). This test will verify both the column and row circuitry on the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove CN8 and CN10 from the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Power the game on.&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the game in switch test.&lt;br /&gt;
#Using a short length of wire with a clip on at least one end, jumper pin 1 to pin 1, then pin 2 to pin 1, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
#Each time you jumper a pin, a single switch closure should be reported.&lt;br /&gt;
#If the game reports only a single switch closure each time you jumper two pins, your MPU is working fine.&lt;br /&gt;
#If the game reports multiple switch closures when you jumper two pins, then your MPU switch matrix has been damaged, probably by shorting high voltage to either a switch matrix row or column on the playfield. Reminder...never risk shorting high voltage to the switch matrix by working on the game with power on.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Switches Not Working Due to Playfield Wiring =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem is on the playfield, then it is likely that the column/row wire is broken or the connector is at fault. Following are several techniques you can use to find the fault.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#If a complete row/column is out, then either the female connector is bad, or the wire is broken prior to the first switch as physically wired in the game. Note that &amp;quot;physical&amp;quot; wiring order will almost certainly differ from the schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
#If something less than a complete row/column is out, then a wire is broken between two of the switches. Track the wire color from one switch to another or use your DMM to &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between switch solder lugs of two switches. This can help you narrow the search.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Multiple Switches Reported from a Single Switch Closure ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DataEastSwitchMatrixShort.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A ball trough switch bent and shorting column and row wires together. The insulator has also slipped off of the green/red wire lug. This caused multiple switch closures to be reported when only a single switch was closed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If pressing a single switch in switch test causes the game to report multiple switch closures, determine first if the problem is on the CPU or out on the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem is on the playfield, inspect the likely switches to ensure that none are shorted to themselves. Check to make sure that the leads do not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead, as shown in the picture at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Periodic &amp;quot;Random&amp;quot; Slam Tilts ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PFHangerScrewCausingSlamTiltThanksCliffy.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A real hair puller. This screw is making contact with the switch lug, resulting in &amp;quot;slam tilts&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Thanks to a couple of folks on RGP for posting this one and to Cliffy for the picture.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Games with playfield hangers and elevated ball troughs (ball trough is located above the playfield) similar to Star Wars, Lethal Weapon 3, Hook, etc. may &amp;quot;slam tilt&amp;quot; unexpectedly. The cause of this is a playfield hanger screw that backs out, makes contact with the lower switch lug, and completes the path to ground for the switch. This causes a &amp;quot;sneak circuit path&amp;quot; in the switch matrix and results in slam tilts as well as other switch anomalies.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Switches Seemingly Inoperative or Registering &amp;quot;Late&amp;quot; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegaRollerSwitch.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Ball lock mechanism switch designations for Sega Batman Forever.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Data East/Sega designed the game software to &amp;quot;debounce&amp;quot; some switches over a longer time duration. For instance, the &amp;quot;lock&amp;quot; switches on Batman Forever will not register, even in switch test, until the switch is closed for approximately 1.5 seconds. Heads up!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display Issues===&lt;br /&gt;
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines.  Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display.  Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display.  Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N&#039; Roses).  Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display.  This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Will Not Light=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PlasmaBallTest.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Testing a high voltage plasma display with an inexpensive plasma ball]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If power to the display is correct, and the display was moved to a known working display panel position (if possible), it is possible that the display has outgassed. A plasma ball can be used to determine if a display glass is outgassed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A Youtube video demonstrating the use of an inexpensive plasma ball for this purpose can be found [https://youtube.com/shorts/GGftl3S_OWg?si=T5Cdzyovtar6_Han &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Outgassing Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:OutGassedDMDDisplay.jpg|300px|thumb|left|An &amp;quot;outgassed&amp;quot; display on a Williams FishTales during display test (all pixels should be on except the single vertical line). This display took several minutes to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;. The plasma seemed to &amp;quot;float&amp;quot; with various portions at the top of the display appearing dark.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
:DMDs will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display as they place extra strain on the power supply, and will eventually damage the power supply. One sign of an outgassing display is that areas of the display need to &#039;warm up&#039; before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Display is &amp;quot;delayed&amp;quot; after turn on ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are cases of import machines incorporating an aftermarket circuit that delays the DMD display from appearing for a fixed amount of time after the game is booted. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information could not be seen when the machine is powered on, thereby preventing identification of a game, and potential sales/operation outside a given geographic area. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard.  More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Alphanumeric Issues ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE520-5030-00.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Data East 520-5030-00 Alpha-Numeric 16 digit display]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Data East #520-5030-00 Alpha-Numeric score display board uses two 16 digit alphanumeric display glasses.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This display was used in:&lt;br /&gt;
*ABC Monday Night Football&lt;br /&gt;
*RoboCop&lt;br /&gt;
*Phantom of the Opera&lt;br /&gt;
*Back To The Future&lt;br /&gt;
*The Simpsons&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Due to many inquiries to the factory from field technicians, Sega/Data East issued [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb87.pdf Service Bulletin 87] which explained the operation of alpha-numeric displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEAlphanumericSegmentIDs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The Data East segment identification scheme, which is identical to the Williams method.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connector CN1 is the segment select for the lower score display glass. This connector handles the a, b, c, d, e, f, g, and comma segments. ICs at U1 (CD4050), U5 (CD4050), U16 (UDN7180 operating on -100v), and U17 (UDN7180 operating on -100v) as well as resistors R1 through R8 (18k, 1/2 watt) all handle this portion of the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connector CN2 is the digit select for digits D1, D2, D3, D4, D5, D6, D7, and D8. The circuitry handling this function consists of resistors R9 through R16 (18k, 1/2 watt), ICs U4 (CD4001), U3 (CD4001), U15 (UDN6118 for the lower display, operating at +90v), and U11 (UDN6118 for the upper display, operating at +90v).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connector CN3 is the digit select for digits D9, D10, D11, D12, D13, D14, D15, and D16. The circuitry handling this function consists of resistors R17 through R24 (18k, 1/2 watt), ICs U9 (CD4001), U10 (CD4001), U18 (UDN6118 for the lower display, operating at +90v), and U14 (UDN6118 for the upper display, operating at +90v).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connector CN5 (ribbon cable) provides the remaining segment selects for both displays. This controls segments h, j, k, m, n, p, r, and dot (lower display only) and a, b, c, d, e, f, g, h, j, k, m, n, p, r, dot, and comma (upper display only). The circuitry handling this function consists of resistors R25 through R32 (18k, 1/2 watt for lower display only), ICs U2 (CD4050), U1 (CD4050), U5 (CD4050) for the lower display, U16 (UDN7180 operating on -100 volts), U17 (UDN7180 operating on -100 volts) for the lower display, U6 (CD4050), U7 (CD4050), U8 (CD4050) for the upper display, U12 (UDN7180 operating on -100 volts), and U13 (UDN7180 operating on -100 volts) for the upper display.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connector CN4 provides power. Note: Zener diode D1 (type 1N4740) on the board regulates the +100 volts down to +90 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 1: -100 volts&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 2: No connection&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 3: +100 volts&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 4: Key&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 5: Ground&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 6: +5 volts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 16 digit alpha-numeric display glass is becoming very expensive. If it is too costly to repair your original display panel, quite a number of aftermarket displays are available. These are plug-n-play compatible with the original board and has the advantage of no longer requiring high voltages (+100/-100) from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segments Light &amp;quot;In Sympathy&amp;quot; With Other Segments=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ShortedSegments.jpg|300px|left|thumb|In this image, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; light simultaneously, even though only one segment should be lit. The last two characters illustrate the issue clearly. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider Pinball50.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Internal shorts within a display glass can cause segments to light &amp;quot;in sympathy&amp;quot; with other segments. That is, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot;, for example, will both light, when only one of the segments &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;should&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be lit. Segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; is lit and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; is lit. This is caused by an internal short within the glass. The short can be confirmed by &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;removing the leads of the associated segments from the PCB&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; and measuring resistance between them. The resistance should be infinite, or open.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, there is no way to repair the glass and it should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Dot Matrix Issues ====&lt;br /&gt;
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently.  Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD).  This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel.  The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable.  Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other.  Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues.  Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
The 128x16 DMD was the first DMD used in a pinball machine and was used for five games.  It was replaced by the much more familiar 128x32 display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes this display will light but the display will appear garbled.  The display will flicker and move but the output will not be readable.  This can be caused by the R95 resistor on the DMD controller board going out of spec.  It should be a 33k 1/2 watt resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines and was the only size used by Bally/Williams.  The display glass is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams and can be used as a drop in replacement. However, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs.  Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14.  You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code.  If one EPROM is used, R11 should be open (nothing installed).  This part can simply be cut off the board.  If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or a jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) versus a jumper, is anyone&#039;s guess.  This is discussed in [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb38b.pdf Service Bulletin 38b].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is worth mentioning that if two 2MBit EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you only have the images for 2 MBit EPROMS you can combine them into a single 4 MBit EPROM using the DOS/Windows copy command:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b display-rom-1.020 + display-rom-0.020 display-rom-combined-0.040&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The old ROM 1 images goes into the lower half. Make sure R11 is cut or your combined EPROM will not work.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic.  This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground.  It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors.  Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2.  Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;DMD displays require high voltage to operate correctly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing high voltage is easy. The procedure is outlined [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Data_East/Sega#Testing_DMD_HV_Power &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== 192x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
The large 192x64 DMD was used in the last four Data East pinball machines.  The display is a relatively expensive part to replace, costing several times as much as the more standard 128x32 DMD. The primary difference with these displays is that the high voltages required to light the display are generated on the display panel itself. The panel needs only a single 18v DC supply. On-board boost converters generate the voltages required, effectively making repairs to the HV circuits very difficult as there is no access to the back of the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU.  These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc.  As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and &amp;quot;&#039;likes&#039; its 5 volts or darn near close&amp;quot;. To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply.  A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb106.pdf Service Bulletin 106].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another issue with this display is when working on the game (or MPU on a bench), the display controller needs to be connected to the MPU. Otherwise, the lamp driver section will show a strange behavior. This is caused by missing data going through the address bus. When the display controller board is not connected it will cause a row (or multiple rows) to blink at a full 18V for a 1/2 second every second (heartbeat) making the lamps burn very brightly (18V at 6V lamps) and burn them out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 4-pin PC/Computer style power connection on the back of the large DMD connects to the following voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
*pin 1 - 5VDC&lt;br /&gt;
*pin 2 - Ground&lt;br /&gt;
*pin 3 - Ground&lt;br /&gt;
*pin 4 - 18 to 24VDC (Cherry/Babcock/Dale were all slightly different)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid Issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Drive Transistor Manufacturers====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ST-TIP122.jpg ‎‎|300px|thumb|left| One of the choices of drive transistor used by Data East.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Data East used several brands of drive transistors, with most of the parts being TIP-122s and sometimes BDX-53Cs. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Knocker &amp;quot;knocks&amp;quot; in test but not in game play====&lt;br /&gt;
Adjustment 4 in some games can be set to CREDIT, EXTRA BALL, NONE, or SPECIAL.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If set to NONE, the knocker will not &amp;quot;knock&amp;quot; when free games are earned.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems with RottenDog MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPUDIPSwitches.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left| RottenDog MPU with a red switch bank for selecting either Williams or Data East special solenoid implementation.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU board can accommodate both Williams and Data East special solenoid implementations. This is accomplished with an 8 DIP switch bank, pictured at left. If set to the wrong game system, special solenoids will not operate properly in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Driver Transistor &amp;quot;Quick Check&amp;quot; ====&lt;br /&gt;
You can quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU by...&lt;br /&gt;
* Turn the game OFF&lt;br /&gt;
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz&lt;br /&gt;
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use&lt;br /&gt;
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102&#039;s&lt;br /&gt;
* Any continuity indicates a shorted transistor that should be replaced. Should the game be powered on, the associated coil, flasher, motor, etc will be turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating this technique on a Data East MPU can be viewed [https://youtu.be/VXiS04-yY58 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may also need to replace the pre-driver transistor (2n4401) that the failed transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_coil Testing a coil]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE_Early_Single_Wound_Flipper_Coil.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Flipper Coil using the earliest &amp;quot;Deger&amp;quot; design (Monday Night Football)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers.  Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversary, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games.  This single wound flipper coil design was developed by Kurt Deger, and is commonly referred to as the Deger design.  Although it has gone through some transformation over the years, it is found in most of the Data East games.  [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin 62] contains a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The patent for the original Deger design can be viewed [http://www.google.com/patents/US4895369 here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip.  The FFASI board then drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil.  This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted.  This is similar to the Bally/Williams WPC FlipTronics II design where the flipper hold is controlled by the FlipTronics II board. Still, many note a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park.  This does differ from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed in Data East games. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers.  If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper.  This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb49.pdf Service Bulletin 49].  With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience &#039;machine gun flippers&#039;.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Solid State Flipper Board Issues=====&lt;br /&gt;
These flippers are controlled by the solid state flipper board (TY-FFASI board) which is mounted in the cabinet.  The board is prone to a few failures, but it&#039;s a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy.  You should see a red LED illuminate briefly when the flipper buttons are pressed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Early Data East flipper boards had an annoying design defect where the flippers would not work if the end of stroke switch was not making good contact. It causes problems because a flaky or broken EOS would make the flippers not work at all. DE released [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf Service Bulletin 54] to show how to modify the existing flipper board. Or you can use a later flipper board (such as 520-5076-00) as long as it supports at least 3 flippers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To test the flipper board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove the board from the cabinet (it&#039;s much easier to work on)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold).  Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Check all transistors using a DMM&lt;br /&gt;
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion&lt;br /&gt;
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game&lt;br /&gt;
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)&lt;br /&gt;
* Check for 50VDC at the coil lugs (DMM set to DC volts, black lead on game ground, red lead on banded side of coil diode)&lt;br /&gt;
* Press flipper button and check for about 8VDC hold voltage&lt;br /&gt;
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (DMM set to DC volts, black lead on game ground, red lead on CN2 pins 6&amp;amp;7 (8VDC hold), CN2 pins 8&amp;amp;9 (50VDC power stroke)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have no voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File: DE-SSFB-9VAC-Power.jpg|300px|thumb|Right|9VAC power split to supply both the SSFB and the backbox power supply at CN1.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. Also, ensure the power “T-Connector” that can be found in the cabinet as pictured at right is still connected and passing power. This connector can be dislodged when raising the playfield.  &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board.  Steps to do this can be found in [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pathetically Weak Flippers=====&lt;br /&gt;
One cause of very week flippers in games that use the solid state flipper board, is lack of good ground for the flipper cabinet switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A ground connection is daisy-chained through the flipper cabinet switches. This ground then proceeds to the solid state flipper board (where an IDC connector is used...something to investigate), and then onto the general game ground. Without a solid ground for the flipper cabinet switches, a weak power pulse may be all that is delivered to the flipper coils.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The fuse clips on many Data East boards are often weak and may snap if bent closer together. The fuse clips must mechanically hold the fuse very tightly, allowing maximum electrical current to pass. Replacing weak fuse clips is mandatory for improved game performance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Flipper Stuck up (hold voltage)=====&lt;br /&gt;
If a flipper sticks up because of hold voltage; check the coil diode as referenced by [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!original/rec.games.pinball/3u5Oa8iQp7g/jwLzsL-scU8J Ray Johnson on 7/20/1998.] Symptom is one of the flippers (originally working ok) began to stick up. Ending game or turning off power; and the flipper returns to correct position.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flipper rests fine; and when flipped after starting the game; the red led on the Flipper board flashes and the flipper moves - yet, +8VAC hold voltage never disappears at the COIL A or B connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Measure the diode at the flipper coil to make sure it&#039;s good ([http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Diode use a DVM in diode mode]). Ensure the diode leads haven&#039;t cracked due to age / vibration.  Note that one leg of the diode will have to be removed from the coil to accurately test the diode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Flipper Repair and Rebuilding=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEFlipperLinkHoggedOut.jpg|left|300px|thumb|Composite of a Data East Flipper Plunger and Link. Note how &amp;quot;hogged out&amp;quot; the large hole in the link is in the top image. The middle image shows the &amp;quot;slop&amp;quot; with the plunger pushed in. The bottom image shows the &amp;quot;slop&amp;quot; with the plunger pulled out. All three images are the same flipper plunger and link.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A major contributor to weak flippers in any game, including Data East, is a damaged or &amp;quot;hogged out&amp;quot; flipper link. The picture at left shows a flipper link with about 1/8&amp;quot; of &amp;quot;slop&amp;quot; in it. When the flipper coil pulls the plunger in, the flipper crank doesn&#039;t begin to actuate the flipper until all of the slack caused by this slop is taken in. At the very least, replacing the link is warranted.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:flipper-before.jpg|left|300px|thumb|Flippers at the hold position before a rebuild]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:flipperparts.jpg|right|300px|thumb|Data East Flipper Rebuild Parts - Return Spring, Plunger/Link Assembly, Coil Spring, EOS Switch, Coil Sleeve, Flipper Bushing, Coil Stop, Spring Washer]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A flipper rebuild is one of the easier things you can do to improve the playability of your machine.  Over time the parts of a flipper will wear and need replacing.  Signs of this include weak or slow flippers, flippers that do not return quickly, or flippers that travel too far.  An experienced technician can just replace the needed parts but it is far easier to buy a flipper rebuild kit from a pinball supplier.  These kits will contains all the parts needed for a general flipper rebuild.  Flipper coils are not included in rebuild kits but are not typically needed for a repair.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some parts are interchangeable between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers due to the similarities in design.  For example, coil sleeves, links, and plungers are the same.  However the flipper bushings and coil stops, although appearing similar, are not compatible.  Buying a complete flipper rebuild kit for your machine will ensure you get all the correct parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:coilstops.jpg|left|300px|thumb|Used and new coil stops. Excessive wear has caused the coil stop to mushroom and allow the flipper to travel too far]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:flipperalign.jpg|right|300px|thumb|Aligning flippers on a Data East machine]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Below are the steps to rebuild an early Data East solid state flipper.  This guide does not currently address the additional steps needed for replacing or adjusting EOS switches.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the coil stop.&lt;br /&gt;
# Pull the coil away from the flipper assembly.  Typically the coil does not have to be replaced, so desoldering the leads is not necessary.  Remove the plastic coil sleeve from the coil.  This should slide out somewhat easily, but a nut driver can be used to push it out.  If you cannot remove the sleeve it may have warped due to heat issues.  If this is the case, replace the coil.  Always replace coil sleeves when rebuilding flippers.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the return spring.&lt;br /&gt;
# Loosen the allen screw that holds the flipper shaft in place.  The flipper can now be removed from the top of the playfield.  Remove the plunger and link assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the rubber stopper where the link assembly rests.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean the metal parts of the flipper assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
# If your existing flipper has one, remove the spring holder and put in on the new link assembly.  Attach one side of the new return spring to the spring holder.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the flipper from the top of the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
# Loosen the flipper bolt and replace the plunger/link assembly.  Do not tighten this yet.&lt;br /&gt;
# Attach the other end of the return spring.&lt;br /&gt;
# Assemble the coil.  Be sure to put the end with the lugs away from the coil stop.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the coil stop and the spring washer.&lt;br /&gt;
# Adjust the flippers from the top of the playfield.  On Data East machines the guide holes align with the tip of the flippers.  Tighten the allen screw on the link assembly to hold the flipper shaft in place.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSPlungerLinkCrankOnDEGame.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A Williams plunger/link/crank assembly and EOS switch, installed on a Data East Tales from the Crypt.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned above, some Williams flipper parts can work in Data East games. In the picture at left, a Williams plunger/link/crank assembly and EOS switch have been substituted. To make this work, the EOS &amp;quot;finger&amp;quot; on the crank must be bent straight and the EOS switch position must be adjusted. It works surprisingly well. The feel is very solid.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Upper Flipper.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Upper Right Flipper on a Data East game (Jurassic Park)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is worth noting that Data East games which use a solid state flipper board, and have upper flippers, do not use EOS switches on these flippers.  If an upper flipper appears to be missing the EOS switch, it actually is not.  This is an intended design.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ball Trough Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE 6ball Trough.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Typical Ball Trough on Later Data East Games]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Jurassic Park, and continuing until Apollo 13, a different type of ball trough is used.  This ball trough is mounted below the plane of the playfield versus the old style, which is mounted above the playfield.  The main purpose of this trough is to allow the storage of more pinballs in the trough.  However, there are a whole new list of potential problems that come along with this design. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Trough Ball Lock2.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Lock Ball Assy. used on Later Data East Games Where sublevel ball trough is used]] This mechanism doesn&#039;t require a coil when the ball enters the outhole, but it takes two coils to release a ball into play. One coil above the playfield releases a ball to the second coil below the playfield; the second kicks the ball into the shooter lane. This second coil has an additional switch nearby to detect the ball. On some games this is a microswitch, but on later games it is an opto.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;p&amp;gt; This arrangement has similar geometry to the later (Apollo 13) trough, as well as the Williams trough that started with Indiana Jones, but the extra (ball release) coil makes it a little harder to work on, and not quite as reliable.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Ball Trough Divots.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Data East / Sega Ball Trough with Ball Divots (Jurassic Park)]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sega_Baywatch_Opto_1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Sega Baywatch ball trough opto]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When the VUK at the end of the ball trough pops over and over, the game thinks there is a ball in the end position, and is trying repeatedly to clear it. It&#039;s possible that the opto is not aligned properly, or that the solder joints at the connector have failed or are cracked. It is also possible that the solder joints for one or more SMD components on the opto board have fractured, which are very difficult to see, even under strong magnification. Reflowing the solder points can sometimes solve this problem.  If reflowing the solder joints does not resolve the issue, replacement of the opto pair is recommended.  When replacing the ultra brite red LEDs, replace both the transmitter and receiver,  These can be acquired from GPE under part # MV8114.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another issue with the switch next to the VUK is possible when the switch can&#039;t close. This switch must close for the game to detect the ball and kick it into play on cue.  If the game goes through ball searches when it should be kicking a ball into play, it may be that this switch needs to be adjusted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flasher Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
Data East games usually have 4 flash lamps wired in parallel off an individual coil driver circuit.  It is critical that all 4 (or at least 3) flash lamps are working on each circuit, otherwise you run the risk of all of the bulbs on that circuit burning out quickly due to the increased load each working bulb has to bear.  Frequently, you will pick up a Data East game where many of the flash lamps are burned out.  A common mistake when checking and replacing flash lamps on these games is to replace a single burned out flash lamp, only to find out when testing it, that it will light once and burn out, because it was the only working flash lamp on that circuit.  The solution is to check the manual for the location of all the flash lamps in that circuit and make sure at least two flash lamps (but preferably 3) on the circuit are working before testing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sound Issues ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Data East Sound board architecture closely resembles that of the later Sega / Stern Whitestar CPU / Sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; Despite the schematic documentation for games like Jurassic Park and Last Action Hero, all BSMT2000 based sound boards use a 10Kohm POT across pins 1, 2 and 3 of the connector labeled &amp;quot;POT&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Boot Sound Clipped ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each Data East game will play a short sound clip when the sound board boots. On some titles, and maybe all titles, this sound is &amp;quot;clipped&amp;quot;, or cut off. This is entirely normal and does not indicate a problem. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Missing or Broken Pins on the MPU-to-Sound Connector ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:DESoundConnectorPinMissing.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Pin 19 header pin missing from the Sound Board Interface connector. This does not cause a problem.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is fairly common for the MPU board to have pin 19 missing from connection CN21. This is the ribbon cable connection between the MPU and the sound board. While this seems odd, it&#039;s not actually a problem, because the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; signal carried on this pin is not used by the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Should the sound board be recapped? ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:DataEast520-5002-01BlownC53.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|C53, clearly a major malfunction, has blown and spewed it&#039;s core across the board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In general, no. There are far too many caps and far too small potential benefit derived from recapping a Data East sound board. Some caps convey signals from the solder side to the component side of the board. Tearing the through-hole of of one of these caps can render the sound board inoperative.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, with the great many caps, it is fairly easy to install a cap with reverse polarity. Sometimes the cap reacts by exploding as pictured at left. Sometimes the cap simply doesn&#039;t do it&#039;s job correctly. In particular, a 4.7uf cap in the reset circuit, if installed with reverse polarity, will cause the board to boot intermittently.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shorted 5V Circuit ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DESoundC62Short.jpg|300px|thumb|left|C62 filters the 5VDC circuit and can short]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The power input section of all Data East sound boards is identical. The 5V power circuit includes a 100uf/35V filter capacitor. Later boards increased the spec on this capacitor to 1000uf.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This capacitor can fail in such a way as to cause a 5VDC short, blowing the power supply 5VDC fuse.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== No Sound - 5077,  - 5126 Sound Board and Others ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
No sound at all (other than possibly the clipped boot sound) can be due to failed RAM.  If the RAM has failed, Pin 4 of the BSMT2000 chip will be stuck low when checked with a logic probe or scope.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6116 RAM can be replaced with 6264 if jumper W4 is moved to W5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6116 RAM on the 520-5077-00 board may be prone to failure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Sound Tests (alphabetical) ====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Playboy 35th Anniversary || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/2qAVZqszEK0 Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for some game specific problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Star Trek 25th Anniversary Edition blown switch matrix ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEStarTrekFlasherSwitchCollision.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The subject flashlamp, clearly touching this switch solder tab.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows the flash lamp that is under the center shot to the subway, under the dilithium crystal &amp;quot;toy&amp;quot;. In the picture, you can see that the flasher is touching one of the switch solder tabs. Not surprisingly, the switch matrix column driver for the green/orange column (switch drive 3) was blown. Luckily, the damage extended only back to the 2N3904 at Q53. Wrapping the flashlamp socket, or the switch solder tabs with a bit of electrical tape is a reasonable solution to prevent this potentially serious issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Guns &#039;n Roses blows Q52===&lt;br /&gt;
If Guns &#039;n Roses has an issue with Q52 blowing repeatedly, check the left kicker and make sure that it is not making contact with the nearby lamp socket when it fires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Leon_Borre_Data_East_CPU_Board_Repair|CPU Board Repair]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://kcpins.com/archives/137 Data East Power Supply Rebuild]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
===Delayed or Missing Blanking Signal===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Time Machine CPU board&#039;&#039;&#039; - blanking signal would go high approximately after 7 seconds or more, (if it went high at all), after PIA diagnostic signal would go low (PIA LED would go out). For a properly functioning CPU board, the blanking signal should go high immediately after the PIA signal changes its state from high to low. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; a bad &#039;&#039;&#039;AMI&#039;&#039;&#039; 6808 CPU chip.  Beware of failing AMI chips.  It is rumored that AMI chips have higher failure rates than most other manufacturers.  This ultimately was a simple fix, but after extensive troubleshooting was performed first.  This particular fix is more of an exception than the rule.  Generally, a missing blanking signal should be isolated to the blanking generator circuitry (555 timer chip, 2N4403, etc.).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Incorrect Flipper Pawl Screw Installed===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Jurassic Park&#039;&#039;&#039;, but applies to other games&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Flippers Incorrect.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Data East Flippers with Extra Long Screws Used on Flipper Pawls]]&lt;br /&gt;
This falls under the &amp;quot;not too often category&amp;quot;, but it is worth mentioning.  The screws used to tighten the flipper pawls have a dual duty.  They of course secure the flipper pawls to the flipper bat, but they also open the flipper EOS switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There were two problems with flippers on this game, as can be seen in the pic on the left.  First, the screws used were Phillips head screws.  A Phillips head screw does not allow for enough torque to adequately secure the flipper pawl to the flipper bat shaft. The factory screws used are #10-32 x 3/4&amp;quot; hardened steel socket head hex Allen screws.  In using an Allen screw, chances of stripping the head are minimized, and much more torque can be applied when tightening. The second problem was that the replacement flipper pawl screws were too long.  By using a longer screw, it messes with the solid state flipper board&#039;s timing, because the EOS switch is opened prematurely.  The end result was a weak spastic flipper.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution: &#039;&#039;&#039; Installed the proper #10-32 x 3/4&amp;quot; hardened steel socket head hex Allen screw on both flipper assys.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Broken/Missing Backbox Latches===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Monday Night Football&#039;&#039;&#039;, but also applies to other early Data East cabinets.&lt;br /&gt;
Machine came in with completely missing backbox latches. The Data East backbox latches are very flimsy and easily stripped out of the wood. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; Use Williams parts instead. Use # 20-9347 Toggle Latch and # 01-8397 Toggle Bracket. They are wider and beefier which provide better securing of the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU fails to boot with RAM installed===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CPU board&#039;&#039;&#039; - without the RAM the board runs perfectly with running Leons test ROM installed. However, installing the RAM prevents the board from booting. The PIA and +5V LEDs light. The blanking LED is off.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; a failed &#039;&#039;&#039;AMI&#039;&#039;&#039; 6808 CPU chip can cause this behavior. Beware of failing AMI chips. It is rumored that AMI chips fail more frequently than other brands. While this behavior seems odd, the failed 6808 was tested using two different known good RAM modules.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===DMD missing, one player game score fonts===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Data East Star Wars - (1.02) roms, with Rottendog MPU004 - 3 board&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Game plays fine, except during one player games the animated score fonts are missing.&lt;br /&gt;
With two player games, the player one score fonts would not show, til player two was up.&lt;br /&gt;
Isolated the problem down to a bad Rottendog MPU004 - 3 board.&lt;br /&gt;
Tested continuity from CN22 to all associated components, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
Rotated all the PIA&#039;s W65C21N6TPG-14 and tested the MPU board, to no avail.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; Replaced the PIA at 9B W65C21N6TPG-14 with a MC6821 PIA. The DMD now works correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7&amp;diff=25890</id>
		<title>Williams System 3 - 7</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7&amp;diff=25890"/>
		<updated>2026-05-11T04:47:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Boards - added other vendors */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Introduction=&lt;br /&gt;
Williams entered the [http://www.pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Glossary#Solid_State_.28SS.29 SS] or Solid State era with a conversion of a 1976 Williams [http://www.pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Glossary#Electro_Mechanical_.28EM.29 EM] or Electro Mechanical pinball game called [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4828 Grand Prix].  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 1&#039;&#039;&#039; is considered to be the Solid State version of &#039;&#039;Grand Prix&#039;&#039;.  It is thought that about 5 Grand Prix EM games were converted to SS prototypes using the new System 1 MPU Board and digital displays.  The computer was only used for accumulating and displaying the player scores.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB links: [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=5647 Grand Prix SS version]&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1072 Grand Prix EM version ]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 2&#039;&#039;&#039; was next, with a 10 unit run of another 1976 EM game called &#039;&#039;Aztec&#039;&#039;.  A working SS version is very rare.  Both System 1 &amp;amp; 2 occurred quickly after each other at the end of 1976.  Aztec SS was still a hybrid machine retaining the EM chime unit in the cabinet and a credit window with an EM numbered reel behind the backglass). Player scoring was still the only digital function at that time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB links: [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4828 Aztec SS version]&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=119 Aztec EM version ] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 3&#039;&#039;&#039; games were the first Williams SS production games, starting with &#039;&#039;[[Hot Tip]]&#039;&#039; in Nov. &#039;77 and ending with &#039;&#039;[[Disco Fever]]&#039;&#039; in Aug &#039;78.  There were based on the Motorola 6800 8-bit CPU and using a Motorola 6820 PIA (Peripheral Interface Adapter) to handle the Display I/O from the MPU board.  They also had three other 6820 PIAs on the Driver Board reading targets and other switches as inputs and controlling the insert Lamps and solenoids as outputs. Solenoid drives were mainly used for ball handling by firing coils, with a few triggering sound calls or a &#039;start of game&#039; tune.  This was the start of Williams using computers for game rules and settings.  At this point they designed an 8x8 Switch Matrix, an 8x8 Lamp Matrix and solenoids driven by Darlington transistors. This design remained virtually unchanged to the end of Williams System 7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During System 3 (&#039;&#039;[[Phoenix]]&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;[[Disco Fever]]&#039;&#039;) a memory protect circuit modification was added as to help protect CMOS RAM data during power up and power down of the game.  DIP switches were used to program game settings (such as # of balls per game, high score replays).&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 4&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Pokerino]]&#039;&#039; in Nov &#039;78 through to  &#039;&#039;[[Stellar Wars]]&#039;&#039; in Mar &#039;79, according to IPDB.com.  A notable game which outsold all of the other System 4 games combined with a production run of 19,505 was &#039;&#039;[[Flash]]&#039;&#039; (Steve Ritchie&#039;s first designed game for Williams).  During System 4, Williams  moved from using DIP switches to change game settings to having the game settings changed from the coin door switches.  The settings were still stored in battery protected CMOS RAM.  [ed Note: Citation needed]  A coin door interlock switch enforced that CMOS memory could not be modified unless the coin door had been opened by the operator.  Some of the game audits (coins accepted, total number of games played, etc.) still could not be changed without access to the MPU board behind the backglass.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Tri Zone]]&#039;&#039; in Jul &#039;79 to &#039;&#039;[[Scorpion]]&#039;&#039; in Jul &#039;80.  Two notable games from this era were from the end of &#039;79 and the beginning of &#039;80 &#039;&#039;[[Gorgar]]&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;[[Firepower]]&#039;&#039;.  Gorgar (14,000 produced) was the first talking pinball, and Firepower (17,410 produced) both talked and introduced the &#039;Lane Change&#039; and &#039;Multiball (tm)&#039; features to SS games.  Note that there had been Multiball play available in EM games, it just wasn&#039;t called Multiball (tm) until Firepower. and this is a common misunderstanding.  The features these games introduced became standards for almost all pinball games produced right up until today.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6a&#039;&#039;&#039; deserves to be mentioned here as it marked a transition to System 7.  The game &#039;&#039;[[Alien Poker]]&#039;&#039; from Oct &#039;80 used the Syatem 6a MPU board (which was not very different from System 6).  But it supported 7 digit scoring displays and a redesigned Master Display Driver board, located behind the backglass on the back of the &#039;Lamp Board&#039;.  It also used a special 4 digit &amp;quot;credit/match&amp;quot; display in the approximate position where the System 6 Master Display Driver had been showing the same information (on a 6 digit display, with 2 of the digits unused).  This new 7 digit scoring displays with a 4 digit credit/match display were then used in all the System 7 games (and System 9).&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 7&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Black Knight]]&#039;&#039; in Nov &#039;80 through to &#039;&#039;[[Star Light]]&#039;&#039; in Jun &#039;84.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB link: [http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?mpu=4&amp;amp;qh=checked&amp;amp;ng=checked&amp;amp;sortby=date&amp;amp;searchtype=advanced Complete System 7 Game list] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Black Knight&#039;&#039; (13,075 produced) introduced a two level playing field and Magna-Save (tm) where the ball could be stopped from draining down the sides by pressing a cabinet button that activated an electromagnet.  &#039;&#039;Star Light&#039;&#039; (100 produced) was a &#039;boutique&#039; game by Williams&#039; production standards as the focus was on ramping up production for the first System 9 game Space Shuttle (7,000 units).  At least one Star Light game was made as the Prototype for System 9.   &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Further discussion of changes and good pictures of the backbox boards for System 3-7 games can be found here:&lt;br /&gt;
[https://web.archive.org/web/20171113074532/https://tuukan.fliput.net/wms_en.html Tukkan.fliput.net (archived link)]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Games=&lt;br /&gt;
==System 3==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hot Tip]]|| 11-1977 || 477 || Chimes ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Lucky Seven]]|| 03-1978 || 480 || Chimes ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[World Cup]]|| 05-1978 || 481 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Contact]]|| 05-1978 || 482 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Disco Fever]]|| 08-1978 || 483 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Used banana flippers&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 4==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards	&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Pokerino]]|| 10-1978 || 488 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-	&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Phoenix]]|| 11-1978 || 485 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Flash]]|| 01-1979 || 486 || Type 1 Sound || ||First game with continuous Background sound/Later games produced on System 6 platform&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Stellar Wars]]|| 03-1979 || 490 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody/Later games produced on System 6 platform&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 6==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Tri Zone]]|| 07-1979 || 487 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Time Warp]]|| 09-1979 || 489 || Type 1 Sound ||  || Used banana flippers for most of run.&lt;br /&gt;
|-	&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Gorgar]]|| 12-1979 || 496 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||First game with speech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Laser Ball]]|| 12-1979 || 493 || Type 1 Sound ||  || Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Firepower]]|| 02-1980 || 497 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  ||First SS Multiball (3 balls). First lane change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Blackout]]|| 06-1980 || 495 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  || First Williams game where a relay was used to turn general illumination on / off for effect.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Scorpion]]|| 07-1980 || 494 || Type 1 Sound || ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 6A==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Algar]]|| 09-1980 || 499 || Type 1 Sound || 7 digit display board||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Alien Poker]]|| 10-1980 || 501 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || 7 digit display board||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 7==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight]]|| 11-1980 || 500 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||First game with magnasave&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Jungle Lord]]|| 02-1981 || 503 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Pharaoh]]|| 05-1981 || 504 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Solar Fire]]|| 07-1981 || 507 || Type 2 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Barracora]]|| 09-1981 || 510 || Type 2 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hyperball]]|| 12-1981 || 509 || Type 2 Sound  ||Uses different driver board than pinball games ||Not a pinball - a flipperless game firing tiny pinballs&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Cosmic Gunfight]]|| 06-1982 || 502 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Varkon]]|| 09-1982 || 512 || Type 2 Sound || || Pinball in stand-up Video cabinet&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Warlok]]|| 10-1982 || 516 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Defender]]|| 12-1982 || 517 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Time Fantasy]]|| 03-1983 || 515 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Joust]]|| 04-1983 || 519 || Type 2 Sound || ||Two player head-to-head pinball&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Firepower II]]|| 08-1983 || 521 || Type 2 Sound || Uses 50v Flipper Power Supply Board ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Laser Cue]]|| 02-1984 || 520 || Type 2 Sound || Uses 50v Flipper Power Supply Board ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Star Light]]|| 06-1984 || 530 || Type 2 Sound || Uses 50v Flipper Power Supply Board ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Documentation=&lt;br /&gt;
==Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics==&lt;br /&gt;
Most manuals and ROM files can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:01-backbox-sys6.pdf|System 6 Backbox Wiring Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Catalogs==&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|1980 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/ltjq/#p=1 Viewer] [[media:Williams_1980_Parts_Catalog.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Tip, Lucky Seven, World Cup, Contact, Disco Fever, Phoenix, Flash, Tri-Zone, Pokerino, Time Warp, Stellar Wars, Laser Ball, Scorpion, Blackout, Gorgar, Firepower, Algar, Black Knight, Alien Poker, Cosmic Gunfight, Jungle Lord, Pharoah, Solar Fire, Hyperball, Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
|This catalog covers all system 3-6 games, and the first third of the system 7 games. The catalog has a black cover.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Service Bulletins==&lt;br /&gt;
Most service bulletins can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Instruction Cards==&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ Instruction Cards &amp;amp; Labels]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==ROM Files==&lt;br /&gt;
Most manuals and ROM files can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;official&amp;quot; ROM repository is at Planetary Pinball and can be found [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/roms.html &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The ROMs hosted on Planetary Pinball for World Cup has an issue. World Cup requires a [[#White_Flipper_ROM_Exceptions|special white flipper ROM specific to World Cup]], which [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2810 can be found within the IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Combining System 3-6 Original ROMs Into a Single ROM at IC14===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6ROMConfig.jpg | thumb | left| 300px| A System 6 TriZone MPU, featuring combined ROM images at U14.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For all System 3-6 games, the ROMs that might be located at U26, U22, and U21 (left to right on the top ROM row) can be replaced with a single 2716 2K EPROM (or 2732 4K if the image is doubled) at IC14 that contains the combined images. When doing so, jumper J3 should be IN, jumper J4 OUT. These jumpers are located just above the ROMs and to the right of IC15.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Diagnostic ROMs by Pincoder===&lt;br /&gt;
Free Diagnostic ROM images for Williams System 3-7 games can be found here: &lt;br /&gt;
* [https://pincoder.ca/ Pincoder Website]&lt;br /&gt;
They require the use of EPROM chips and a chip programmer. However, you can choose to skip sourcing EPROMs and the chip programmer by using the available [https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/ Pincoder Adapter] right out of the box. Simply plug it into the MPU board, select a test, and power on the game. Full documentation can be downloaded from the Pincoder website. The ROM images and the adapter are actively supported.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper ROMs===&lt;br /&gt;
The OS (Operating System) for a Williams pinball game is contained within the Flipper ROMs. Flipper ROMs with the same color label can be considered generic, although there is at least one exception where a &#039;custom&#039; White Flipper ROM was used &amp;quot;World Cup&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Game ROM can be considered the &#039;personality&#039; ROM, it provides the rules and objectives that are specific to that game&#039;s playfield layout.  It also maps the Lamps, Solenoid and Switch Matrix to their specific purpose for that game and controls how they are sequenced and timed.  Examples would be the &#039;attract mode&#039; lamp sequence or when sound / speech select calls are made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since production runs were so large, Williams bought batches of Masked ROMs (fixed and not erasable) for the games. This was cheaper at the time than using EPROMs (UV erasable, with a small window) as EPROMs were still relatively expensive in the 80&#039;s. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is always a good idea to replace old masked ROMs with EPROMs, since the original masked ROMs are 30+ years old and as the legs blacken and tarnish, they will weaken and fall off. The old masked ROMs also ran hot, with heat scorching evident on the ROM labels in some cases. Also, many of the ROM sockets on the MPU boards will need to be replaced. Sockets bearing the words &#039;Scanbe&#039;, were of dubious quality to begin with. Thirty years later, they are long past their reliable lifetime. Masked ROMs are very stable as they start life as all 1&#039;s and then the information is programmed by &amp;quot;burning&amp;quot; each selected bit open, like blowing a tiny fuse. This process is not reversible, and ROMs will rarely lose their programming over time, unless the remaining whisker-like &amp;quot;fuses&amp;quot; start to fail. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper ROM Colors====&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used standard ROM files for System 3-7. These two Flipper ROMs are located at IC17 and IC20. Systems 3-6 use two 2716 or 2316 EPROMs, while system 7 used a 2716 at IC20 and a 2532 at IC17 (a 2732 can be used at position IC17 by moving jumpers).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROMs=====&lt;br /&gt;
White flipper ROMs were used in all System 3 games and two System 4 games...&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Tip&lt;br /&gt;
*Lucky 7&lt;br /&gt;
*World Cup&lt;br /&gt;
*Contact&lt;br /&gt;
*Disco Fever&lt;br /&gt;
*Pokerino (system 4)&lt;br /&gt;
*Phoenix (system 4)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
World Cup uses White Flipper ROMs, but the ROM in IC17 is unique. The MPU will not boot and run with the standard White flipper ROM. However, the World Cup White flipper ROM can be used in all other White Flipper ROM games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROM Issues=====&lt;br /&gt;
When downloading ROM software for World Cup, be aware the code available directly from Planetary Pinball has known faults and will not work properly. Code available from IPDB generally is correct and functional. The issues with these games is as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
World Cup: Provided with the standard IC17 Flipper Rom, not the unique one required for World Cup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lucky 7: When the original 512 byte files were combined into a 2k file for IC14 Game Rom, blank areas were entered incorrectly. &lt;br /&gt;
This causes the machine to register a failed checksum test when attempting to enter settings via the dip switches. (Note: The copy on Planetary Pinball appears to have been corrected).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hot Tip: When the original 512 byte files were combined into a 2k file for IC14, they were done out of order. (Note: The copy on Planetary Pinball appears to have been corrected).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Yellow Flipper ROMs==== &lt;br /&gt;
The yellow flipper ROMs were used in 2 games...&lt;br /&gt;
*Stellar Wars&lt;br /&gt;
*Flash (later production of Flash used Green flipper ROMs, which are preferred. The game ROM version must match the flipper ROM color)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Green Flipper ROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The green flipper ROMs were used in System 6 and 6A games from Tri Zone (Jul &#039;79) to Alien Poker (Oct &#039;80)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Tri Zone&lt;br /&gt;
*Time Warp&lt;br /&gt;
*Gorgar&lt;br /&gt;
*Laser Ball&lt;br /&gt;
*FirePower&lt;br /&gt;
*Blackout&lt;br /&gt;
*Scorpion&lt;br /&gt;
*Algar&lt;br /&gt;
*Alien Poker&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Green Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ted Estes developed a &amp;quot;divide by 10&amp;quot; ROM that allows /10 scoring for all 6 digit Green flipper ROM games with the exception of Algar and Alien Poker. These 2 games utilize an extension to the operating system ROM contained wholly in the game ROM which is incompatible with the Ted Estes hack (when enabled - with the hack disabled, the game works fine). Installing the hacked ROMs in these games isn&#039;t recommended since there may be other side effects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Alien Poker and Algar operating system extensions shift internal scoring before and after the normal routines. i.e. Internally, Alien Poker and Algar are 6 digit games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blue Flipper ROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BlueFlipperROMsMislabeled.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Mislabeled Flipper ROMs shown in a factory Jungle Lord MPU Board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider rramstad&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
The blue fipper ROMs were used in all System 7 games, Black Knight (Dec &#039;80) and later. Note that in some games like (at least) Black Knight and Jungle Lord, the factory labels on the flipper ROMs are incorrect. The labels on IC17 and IC20 are swapped as shown in the image at right.&lt;br /&gt;
*Black Knight&lt;br /&gt;
*Jungle Lord&lt;br /&gt;
*Pharoah&lt;br /&gt;
*Black Knight Limited Addition&lt;br /&gt;
*Solar Fire&lt;br /&gt;
*Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
*Hyperball&lt;br /&gt;
*Thunderball&lt;br /&gt;
*Cosmic Gunfight&lt;br /&gt;
*Varkon&lt;br /&gt;
*Warlock&lt;br /&gt;
*Defender&lt;br /&gt;
*Rat Race&lt;br /&gt;
*Time Fantasy&lt;br /&gt;
*Joust&lt;br /&gt;
*FirePower II&lt;br /&gt;
*Laser Cue&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Blue Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
Star Light (June &#039;84, 100 produced) which was the last System 7 game, appears to have non-standard Blue Flipper ROMs. For small production runs, games were supplied from the factory with EPROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Circuit Board Schematics and Assembly Drawings==&lt;br /&gt;
===Connectors===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MolexExample.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Molex Connectors used in Williams System 3-7 games]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media: Molex-Connectors-Firepower-1.1.pdf|Molex connectors used in Williams System 3-7 games]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7MasterDisplayBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 master display board layout]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:08-masterdisplayboard-sys3-6.pdf|Display Diver Board Assembly Drawing]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:09-masterdisplaylogic-sys3-6.pdf|Display Driver Board Logic Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-7DriverBoardLayout.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-7 driver board layout]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:05-driverlogic-sys3-6.pdf|System 3-7 Driver Board Logic Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:04-driverboard-sys3-6.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Assembly Drawing]] (Note: The Tables for Solenoids, Switch Matrix and Lamp Matrix are examples for Firepower.  However the wiring colors and locations do not change from game to game. System 7 does not use Driver Solenoids to trigger sounds, and that is covered in the Sound Board section.)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_layout.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_schematics_1of2.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Schematics (1 of 2)]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_schematics_2of2.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Schematics (2 of 2)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms-sys3-mpu-layout.jpg ‎|left|thumb|300px|Board Layout Diagrams and Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-mpu-layout.jpg|System 3 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-mpu-schematic.jpg|System 3 MPU Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Williams_System-4_MPU_Layout.jpg|System 4 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Williams_System-4_MPU_Schematic.jpg|System 4 MPU Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:03-cpulogic-sys6.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Logic Diagram]] (Note: Because IC9 and IC10 can be bypassed directly, this diagram is accurate for System 6a)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:02-cpuboard-sys6.pdf |System 6 MPU Board Assembly Drawing]] (Note: Because IC9 and IC10 can be bypassed directly, this diagram is accurate for System 6a)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_layout.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_schematics.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_bom.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Bill of Materials]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S7Schematics.jpg ‎|left|thumb|300px|System 7 MPU Board Schematics]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:Sys7-cpu-logic2.pdf|System 7 MPU Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7PowerSupplies.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-7 Power Supply board layout]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-6_power_supply_early_layout.jpg|Early System 3-6 Power Supply Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-6_power_supply_early_schematics.jpg|Early System 3-6 Power Supply Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:Wms-sys3-6-powersupply-assembly.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Assembly Drawing]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_power-supply_layout.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_power-supply_schematics.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:WMSSystem7PSDrawing.jpg ‎|System 7 Power Supply Board Assembly Drawing]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:WMSSystem7PSSchematic.png ‎|System 7 Power Supply Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During the long run of System 3 through 7 games, Williams used two basic board types, designated Type 1 (rectangular) and Type 2 (square).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 1 Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-4RectangularSoundBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Rectangular Sound board layout]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:WMS_Sys3-6_Type_1_Sound Board.pdf|System 3-4 Type 1 Sound Board Assembly Drawing and Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 2 Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of the following were crafted by Phil Butcher and Richard Harvey. Thanks gents!&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS6-7SquareSoundBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Square Sound board layout]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Wms-sys6-7-soundspeech-assembly.pdf|System 6-7 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Boards Assembly Drawing]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:18-soundlogic.pdf | System 6-7 Sound Board Schematics]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media: Speech-Logic-8226.pdf | System 6-7 Model 8226 Speech Board Schematics]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media: Speech-Logic-8228.pdf | System 6-7 Model 8228 Speech Board Schematics]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Errors==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
* Note that the parts bill of materials for some (perhaps all) system 7 games call out a 2N6087 power transistor for Q5. This is most likely a typo. A 2N6057 or 2N6059 should be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Technical Info=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Proprietary Numbers on Chips==&lt;br /&gt;
Some Williams IC chips are marked with proprietary Williams part numbers. Below is a list of some of the most common chips found on Williams boards, and the more commonly referred to chip.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-8987 - 6800 CPU chip, Motorola part #SC44216P.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-9150 - 6808 CPU chip&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-8972 - 6820/21 PIA chip, Motorola part #SC44067P.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-9903 - 6810 RAM chip&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Backbox Overview==&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams backbox is similar for most of the games in the System 3-7 games. System 3-6 remained fairly similar in their backbox layouts. System 7 introduced a number of changes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* During the beginning of System 7 the transformer moved from the backbox to the lower cabinet&lt;br /&gt;
* The System 7 PSU was redesigned and changed to incorporate a relay to control general illumination&lt;br /&gt;
* An improved System 7 MPU Board was used, which featured a built-in numeric diagnostic display&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first two System 3 games ([[Hot Tip]] &amp;amp; [[Lucky Seven]]) used chimes and had no sound boards. The remaining System 3 games and in all System 4 games, the sound board was located in the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sample games of the first System 6 game, [[Tri Zone]] had the sound board located in the cabinet, but it was moved into the backbox for production Tri Zone&#039;s and all other System 6 &amp;amp; 6A games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the System 6A game [[Alien Poker]] and all System 7 games, an add-on board speech board was introduced, which contained additional ROMs containing speech data.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Fuses==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;text-align: center;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Williams System 3 - 7 Power Supply Fuse Ratings&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!System &lt;br /&gt;
!F1&lt;br /&gt;
!F2&lt;br /&gt;
!F3&lt;br /&gt;
!F4*&lt;br /&gt;
!F5&lt;br /&gt;
!F6&lt;br /&gt;
!F7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 15amp FB || 4amp SB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 4amp FB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 4amp FB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 7amp SB || 7amp SB || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The value of F4 does vary. Check the game manual for the correct rating. It&#039;s usually 10A for games with 2 flippers. Later System 7 games with a separate flipper power supply do not use F4.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==MPU Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3 MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 3 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem3MPURevisionA.jpg ‎|right|thumb|300px|System 3 MPU IC Locator. The System 4 MPU adds only IC26 on the left side of the board, just above IC22 where the odd looking solder pads are.&lt;br /&gt;
]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 was a major step by Williams to digital pinball games. System 3 ushered in Solid State machines but there were problems with the acceptance of the new machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used the driver board to drive solenoids on chime units first two System 3 games, and even had a device called a &#039;noisemaker&#039; (an EM score reel mounted in the body of the game) to provide the sounds of the score reels clicking over! This gave the player the familiar sounds of EM machines which could still be found on location. Player scoring, credits remaining and the ball-in-play were all digitally displayed on high voltage seven-segment gas plasma displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Even after Williams removed chimes and &#039;noisemakers&#039; (for [[World Cup]] in May 1978) and added a digital sound board, the operator could still select the more familiar &amp;quot;bings &amp;amp; bongs&amp;quot;. A switch was provided on the sound board which allowed selection of simple digital chimes. This option persisted through System 7 sound boards. Operators rarely used this feature. Digital sound became more popular and soon gained greater player acceptance.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 was based on the Motorola 6800 CPU and what has become a standard arcade peripheral I/O device, the 6821 PIA (originally the 6820). The PIA (or Peripheral Interface Adapter) on the MPU board was used to drive the displays. All other peripherals, switches, lamps, solenoids, and sound, were driven by the 3 PIAs on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 and 4 boards use a Motorola 6800 microprocessor with a 6875 clock generator chip, while System 6 and 7 boards can use either a 6802 or 6808 microprocessor.  A 6802 or 6808 can not be used in a System 3 or 4 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Upgrading a System 3 board to System 4====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3ToSystem4ConversionOverview.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Overview of a board converted from System 3 to System 4]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A system 3 MPU can be upgraded to use a single 2716 EPROM at what will be IC14 (System 3 schematics do not give this IC position a designation number). This essentially converts the board to a System 4 board. This upgrade is useful to reduce the number of sockets (and failure points). Install a 24 pin socket at the unpopulated area, just to the right of the IC17 socket. Combine the original game ROM code into a single 2716, and install it into the socket of what is now being called IC14. The flipper ROMs are installed in the same locations, ROM 1 into IC20, ROM 2 into IC17.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CutJumperWMSSystem3ToSystem4.jpg|thumb|right|300px|IC15 (on left), showing necessary cut and jumper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate IC15 on the MPU (see picture at left)&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate the trace that runs from between pins 6 and 7 of IC15 to a via just to the right of the chip&lt;br /&gt;
#Sever that trace carefully&lt;br /&gt;
#Using jumper wire, connect the through hole via to pin 1 of IC15.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Doublecheck the work once the jumper is installed. Perform a continuity test between pin 1 and pin 9 of IC15.  There should not be continuity.  Conversely, there should now be continuity between pin 1 of IC15, and pin 20 of IC14.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 Remove Components.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Components which must be removed from a stock System 3 MPU board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 3 MPU board reset circuit should be updated as follows. This update was recommended by Williams in manual amendment 16P-482-110, and is done to improve CMOS RAM memory content protection during power-on/power-off.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Added10K.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|10 Kohm 1/4W resistor added to circuit, upper left, connected to the banded end of the zener diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove C27, R30, and R40 from the upper left corner of the MPU&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor. One leg of the resistor will be soldered to the cathode of ZR1 (banded side - top).  The other leg of the resistor will be soldered to the left through hole where R30 formerly was. The newly installed 10 Kohm resistor is referred to as R96 in System 4 MPU schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:1N4148.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Addition of the D19 1N4148 diode installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add a 1N4148 diode, if it is not already installed. The location is in the upper left quadrant of the circuit board. The anode (non-banded side) of the diode should be installed in a via, which is just to the right of resistor R23. This via is routed to pin 17 of IC19.  The cathode (banded side) of the diode should be tack soldered to the solder pad where the right leg of resistor R23 is installed. Once installed, this 1N4148 diode is referred to as D19 on System 4 MPU schematics.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 MPU Sockets.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Addition of C68 is shown above, a .1uf 50v ceramic capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Install a .1uf 50v capacitor just below the newly installed IC14 socket. One leg of the capacitor connects to +5VDC, while the other leg is inserted into a via which is routed to the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 Clock Circuit.JPG|thumb|left|300px|A factory board without the recommended capacitor and inductor update.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3Mod.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|The recommended capacitor and inductor additions have been made to this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add a 120pF capacitor (C66) and a 15uH inductor (L1) in parallel with the R1 resistor located just to the left of the crystal. This modification also applies to System 4 boards which do not have these components installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys3CapUpdate.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Here, the originally installed capacitor has been replaced with the correct capacitor. This capacitor is located just below the 5101 RAM]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, some System 3 MPUs came from the factory with a .01uf capacitor (marked 103) installed at position C22, (located just below IC19, the 5101 RAM). If so, replace that capacitor with a .1uf 50v capacitor. The purpose of this capacitor is to snub the high frequency noise created within the 5101 as silicon gates open and close. This applies to System 4 MPU boards too.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the above modifications are performed, a System 3 MPU board will be one-to-one compatible with a System 4 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 4===	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys4 MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem4MPU.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|Another view of the Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 architecture is little changed from the previous System 3 generation, retaining the 6800 microprocessor.  The only functional changes from System 3 to System 4 was a minor alteration to the reset circuit as well as minor changes to the data and address bus in order to more easily facilitate the use of larger EPROMS for the game specific programming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 4 machines began with Pokerino in 1978 and ended with Flash in 1979.  Late production Flash machines also utilized the then-new System 6 boardset in place of System 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; All System 6 software will run on a System 4 board. The exception is Firepower which utilized both the bipolar proms and a 2716 game eprom. Due to the missing memory protection circuit and somewhat unstable clock circuit replacing a System 6 CPU with a System 4 CPU is not recommended. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Upgrading a System 4 MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys4 Clock Circuit.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Changed layout with additional capacitor and inductor to the R1 resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 board has a revised clock circuit which usually does not need to be modified. If there are reset problems, replace the 22ufd tantal capacitor with a 33ufd type. This will lengthen the reset period a little and helps the clock circuit to stabilize. The capacitor modification can also be applied to System 3 boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If an incorrect capacitor is installed at position C22, (located just below IC19 - 5101 RAM), it is recommended to replace it.  This replacement is only necessary, if a 0.01mfd cap is installed.  If so, replace the 0.01mfd capacitor with a .1mfd 50v capacitor.  This applies to System 3 MPU boards too. Only early system 4 boards had an incorrect capacitor installed. Also check if the 0.01mfd blocking capacitor for IC14 is missing. If yes stuff it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 6===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS-6-MPU-board.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6A MPU Board. Note that the .156 headers on this board have been replaced and an LED indicating the blanking status has been added]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 6 was an upgrade to the System 4 design, replacing the 6800 processor with a 6808.  They took advantage of the internal clock in the 6808 CPU, removing the need for the 6875 clock generator (a companion chip to the 6800 and now obsolete and impossible to find). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This also changed the way the &#039;watchdog&#039; circuit functioned.  The watchdog monitors the CPU (IRQ signal), and will blank the displays and lamps as well as stopping the solenoids from firing. When something goes wrong (perhaps the MPU board has locked up), &#039;blanking&#039; should prevent further damage to the game by &#039;locked on&#039; coils and other output components driven from PIAs on the MPU/Driver boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More ROM memory could be addressed, and this was used to hold more sophisticated game code. As an example, Firepower used a 2716 2K Game ROM (which was standard for IC14) plus 3 x Harris bipolar proms (512 bytes each) giving a total game code size of 3,584 bytes.  Having just 3K of code space is nothing by today&#039;s standards.  Programmers had to work hard to get good game code in such a small space.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During early System 6 revisions the transceiver chips 8T28 ICs at IC9 and IC10 were found to not be needed.  They were eliminated from the design as they didn&#039;t need to amplify signals to and from the data bus with modern ROMs.  If the ICs are working, leave them alone. But if not, these buffers are obsolete and can be removed and bypassed, in effect by jumpering the data bus pins of the CPU directly to the data bus. i.e. IC9 and IC10 may be removed, and jumpers installed across pins 2-3, 5-6, 9-10, and 12-13 for both ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also around this period of game development, 8T97 bus &amp;quot;amplifier&amp;quot; ICs at IC3, IC4, and IC8 were used for address and control signals from the 6808 to peripheral ICs. 8T97s are long obsolete too, but fortunately can be replaced with an 74LS367, which Williams itself used in some revisions of the board. 8T97s can not be removed and jumpered like IC9 and IC10. They must be in place. Testing these chips is easy with a logic probe. The input signal should closely match the output signal of the amplifier. i.e. pins 2/3, 4/5, 6/7, 10/9, 12/11, and 14/13 should all test identical with a logic probe. Note that since the signal is amplified, logic probe indicators might vary somewhat. But, the probe should not measure high on one pin and low on the companion pin, for example.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 8T97 bus amplifiers communicate the following signals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*IC4 - A0 thru A5&lt;br /&gt;
*IC3 - A6 thru A11&lt;br /&gt;
*IC8 - A12 thru A15, VMA (valid memory address), and R/W (read/write)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On Firepower alone, the &#039;Combo ROM&#039; modification must be done to allow the use of a 2732 EPROM as the Game ROM at IC14.  This replaces the Firepower game code found in 4 ROMs as described [[Modifying a System 6 or 6A to Use The Firepower 2732 Combo ROM at IC14 | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]], and is an excellent idea. Less chips to worry about, less sockets to replace.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams also transitioned to using the updated 6821 PIAs during System 6 because the MC6820 was phased out after 1977. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replacing the 6808 with a 6802 ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Jumper1 6808.jpg|thumb|left|300px|J1 installed for 6808 or 6802 CPU chip]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 R4 6802.jpg|thumb|right|300px|J1 removed, 4.7 Kohm 1/4w resistor (R4) installed for use with 6802 CPU chip]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The typically stuffed 6808 microprocessor can be replaced with the more easily obtained 6802 microprocessor. The 6802 uses the same instruction set architecture and pinout, making it &amp;quot;backward compatible&amp;quot; with the 6808. The 6802 incorporates an internal 128 x 8 bit RAM memory. With the proper strapping, the 6810 RAM located at IC13 may be removed when a 6802 is installed. Factory strapping grounds pin 36 of the 6808/6802 socket via jumper J1. Pin 36 must be pulled high by tying pin 36 to 5V via a 4.7K pullup resistor. This enables the 6802&#039;s internal RAM. The 6810 at IC13 can then be removed or (if not socketed) simply left in place.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Procedure&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the 6808 with a 6802&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper J1&lt;br /&gt;
*Install a 4.7K resistor at R4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Officially, the 6808 has no internal RAM. But, internally it&#039;s identical to the 6802. Sometimes the 6808 internal RAM works but this is not guaranteed, so when using a 6808, be sure pin 36 is grounded.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Factory Jumper on System 6 MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Header Jumper.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6 MPU board with factory jumper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 and 6 Header Compare.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 6 and System 3 MPU board comparison]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 6 MPU boards have a jumper installed between IJ3 pin 1 and IJ4 pin 1.  This is a factory jumper, and should not be removed.  Its purpose is due to the addition of the memory protect circuit, which was incorporated with the System 6 MPU.  System 3 and 4 MPU boards did not have a memory protect circuit.  The method in which this was added is the addition of pin 1 of IJ4.  This pin was formerly the keying pin on System 3 and 4 MPU boards.  However, Williams failed to run a trace to this pin for the memory protect circuit.  Hence, a jumper was installed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using a System 6 MPU board in a System 3 or 4 game, it is recommended to remove the keying plug from the IJ4 connector in the game, as opposed to cutting / removing pin 1 or IJ4.  This will allow the MPU to be used in any System 6 games in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 6A===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6AMPU.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6A MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 6A MPU is a System 6 board without buffer chips at IC9 and IC10. In place of these chips were several jumpers in closed frames, which can look similar to a socket at first glance. The jumpers are used to pass the data lines from the CPU chip to the data bus.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 6A also used four 7-digit slave displays and one 4-digit slave display driven by a centralized display driver board. This separated the displays from any board logic. Prior to this point, a master display driver board (with a 6-digit or 4-digit glass installed directly on the driver board) housed the display logic and drove four 6-digit slave displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 6 boards that are not explicitly marked as 6A in the lower right corner were modified to be 6A boards, which can be identified by the lack of the IC9 and IC10 buffer chips. Either several uninsulated wire jumpers will be installed in the solder pads of these two chips, or the same closed frame jumpers as seen on actual 6A MPU boards may be present.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Modifying a System 6 or 6A to Use The Firepower 2732 Combo ROM at IC14====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS IC14 4700 Res 20 24.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Cuts made, jumper run, and 4.7Kohm resistor added]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS J3 J4 1N4148.jpg|thumb|right|300px|2 1N4148 diodes added where jumpers J3 &amp;amp; J4 previously were]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The factory ROMs for Firepower use all 6 ROM socket positions on a System 6 or 6A board.  To minimize the amount of chips and sockets used, some modifications have to be performed to the MPU board. In doing these modifications, the board will then be able to use &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; green flipper ROM chips at IC20 &amp;amp; IC17, and a single 2732 combo ROM at position IC14.  Below are instructions pulled from the readme.txt file, which is included with the Firepower L2 ROM code found on [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=856 www.ipdb.org]. Some of the procedure wording has been altered for clarification.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are similar methods which may or may not work besides this method. Note that the jumper wire can be connected from IC14 pin 21 to either IC30 pin 14 or pin 34 of the 40 pin interconnect. If at all possible, please make sure that the board being modified boots and works with other game code, such as Gorgar, Flash, or Firepower, before attempting to make these modifications for the Firepower combo ROM.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove Game ROMs (IC14, IC21, IC22, IC26) from their sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove jumpers that may be installed at J3 or J4 (to the right of IC15, a 74LS139).&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, at IC14 pin 21, sever the trace on both sides of the solder pad. Removing the existing solder on the pad may help. The idea is to sever the +5V connection to the pin, while still leaving the solder pad at the pin itself.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a jumper from IC14 pin 21 to IC30 pin 14. IC30 is generally not installed. It is a 16-pin chip outline just to the right of IC14 and just above the 40 pin interconnect. Solder the jumper between the hole at pin 14 of the empty IC30 location, and pin 21 of IC14, making sure to not short it to the other side of the trace previously cut at IC14. This connects A11 to IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a 4.7K ohm, 1/4 Watt resistor between pins 20 and 24 of IC14. With the resistor leads bent at 90 degrees at a comfortable distance from the body of the resistor, the legs should line up at just the right spacing to solder one lead to each of those pins.  Again, make sure to avoid shorting the pin 20 connection to the jumper wire at pin 21, or the cut trace edges around pin 21.  This provides a pullup for the active-low chip select.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install two fast switching signal diodes (either 1N914 and 1N4148) at locations J3 and J4. The cathode (banded) end should be oriented toward the TOP of the board for both diodes. This enables both of the two Game ROM address ranges to drive the active-low chip select at IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#Program a 2732 with the &amp;quot;FPCOMBO&amp;quot; ROM image (found [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:FPCOMBO.zip &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]) and install at IC14. If the board doesn&#039;t already have working Green Flipper ROMs at IC17 and IC20, those should be installed also. Note the orientation of the ROMs with respect to pin 1 of the chip sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System (Somewhere Between 6 and 7)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem679OddballMPU.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System (unknown) MPU Board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Jerry Clause&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board pictured at left was installed in a working Williams BlackOut game. At this time, there is no information available about this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys7-MPU.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 7 was considered a major step change.  It had a redesigned MPU board, now supporting a single 7-segment LED display for indicating improved diagnostic information instead of the original 2 LEDs that System 3-6a MPU boards had used.  It also added commas to the player scoring displays and moved the sound select support to the MPU board.  An extra 6821 PIA supported both the sound/speech selects and the display of commas. An extra 12-pin header at 1J8 was added to provide connections for the new Sound and Commas support.  This freed up five solenoid drives at positions #9-13 on the Driver board, which had been sound/speech selects.  They were then available to drive extra game Coils or Flash Lamps.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU used two 2114 Static RAMs; these 1024 x 4 bit RAMs replaced the use of 6810 RAMs mentioned above.  There was extended memory addressing, support for multiple 2732 ROMs (or EPROMS) as standard and a huge number of jumper selections available.  The jumpers support various memory addressing schemes and ROM sizes, making the System 7 board MPU &amp;quot;backwards compatible&amp;quot; and able to emulate any of the previous System 4-6a games.  (Provided, of course, that the correct Jumper Settings and EPROMS are installed.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound and Speech boards were unchanged for System 7; both sound and speech boards remained compatible from their introduction for Gorgar.  In some cases the System 7 game had no 0.100&amp;quot; 40-way IDC header for the speech board connection. This was a cost saving measure made by Williams for games produced without speech. This connector is cheap and available today as it is still used for PC IDE hard drives and modern PCB connections.  Adding this connector back to the sound board allows it to support a speech &#039;daughter board&#039; by removing the Jumper at W1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Driver Board mates with the MPU board using 40 x 0.156&amp;quot; header pins on the MPU and female sockets on the Driver Board.  This is a continual source of repair problems for this era of Williams machines.  To solve this, when designing System 9 Williams combined the MPU and Driver Boards (and the Sound Board) onto a single PCB (Printed Circuit Board), and removed the problems associated with the now infamous Williams &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; connector.  Only the speech board remained separate, as digital speech was considered an optional feature.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7 MPU Jumper and IC Locator====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 MPU Jumpers Marked.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Positions of the jumpers on a System 7 MPU board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7ICLocator.png|300px|right|thumb|IC Locations on a System 7 MPU board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The image at left shows the most common jumpers on a System 7 MPU board. There are other jumpers on the right hand side of the board (not shown in the pic). However, these jumpers are rarely added or removed, nor do they pertain to the size of the ROM chips installed on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right is provided to assist in IC location.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The factory release of most System 7 MPUs contained a 2532 PROM at IC17. The more common 2732 is easy to use, with minor board modifications.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7MPUJumper.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Component side of a System 7 MPU board with modifications for a 2732 at position IC17]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 MPU 2732 IC17 Mod.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Solder side of a System 7 MPU board with modifications for a 2732 at position IC17]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;On the component side of the board,&#039;&#039;&#039; move jumper 22 to jumper 23. This amounts to moving the jumper down one position.&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;On the solder side of the board,&#039;&#039;&#039; cut the fat trace that grounds pin 21.&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the via labeled &amp;quot;22&amp;quot; to pin 21 of IC17. Be sure that the jumper doesn&#039;t short to the jumper previously moved on the component side.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7 MPU Test Pad Info====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an unpopulated connector in the lower right corner of the system 7 MPU board.  You can use a meter or logic probe to test the signals that are present on it or possibly add a connector to it (you can use a .100 dual row 20x2 connector).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:Williams-sys7-unpopulated-connector.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Unpopulated Connector]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|gnd || 40 || 39 || gnd&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d7 || 38 || 37 || ic36 CA2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d6 || 36 || 35 || ic37/15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d5 || 34 || 33 || ic37/14&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d4 || 32 || 31 || ic37/13&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d3 || 30 || 29 || ic37/21&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d2 || 28 || 27 || ic36 pb4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d1 || 26 || 25 || ic36 cb2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d0 || 24 || 23 || blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|reset || 22 || 21 || vma&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|r/w || 20 || 19 || bus 02&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a14 || 18 || 17 || a15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a12 || 16 || 15 || a13&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a10 || 14 || 13 || a11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a8 || 12 || 11 || a9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a6 || 10 || 9 || a7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a4 || 8 || 7 || a5&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a2 || 6 || 5 || a3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a0 || 4 || 3 || a1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| +5vdc || 2 || 1 || +5vdc&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
! colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; | Bottom of board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Compatibility===&lt;br /&gt;
Williams 3-7 MPU are pretty flexible.  With some modifications, boards can be upward compatible, while others are downward compatible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the details:&lt;br /&gt;
*A System 3 MPU can be upward compatible to a System 4 MPU, if the upgrades are performed as described [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Upgrading_a_System_3_board_to_System_4 above].  And if a System 3 MPU is upgraded to a System 4 MPU, it is then upward compatible with a System 6 MPU board.  There will not be a memory protect circuit though.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 4 and 4A MPUs are upward compatible to a System 6 MPU, when a socket is installed and used at position IC14.  However, there will not be a memory protection circuit. A System 4 MPU is backward compatible with a System 3 MPU with no modifications performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 6 and 6A MPUs are backward with System 3, 4, and 4A MPU boards with no modifications performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*A System 7 MPU is backward compatible with System 3, 4, 4A, 6, and 6A MPU boards.  However, board jumpers will have to be removed / installed.  It not recommended to use a System 7 MPU board in any previous systems, but it can be done.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 3, 4, 4A, 6, and 6A MPU boards are &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; upward compatible with System 7 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In any instance where a non-native MPU board is used in place of the original MPU board, the correct flipper ROMs and game ROM must be installed.  An example would be if an upgraded System 3 MPU were to be used in Gorgar.  The GREEN flipper Roms and Gorgar game ROM would have to be installed in postions IC20, IC17, and IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Aftermarket Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottendogMPU327.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|A Rottendog MPU327, which can be installed in any Williams System 3 - 6 game.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MPU327StuffedWrong.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|U17 on an MPU327, stuffed correctly with a 74HCT9114.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 Rottendog] offers aftermarket Williams 3 through 7 combined MPU/driver boards. The Rottendog board (pictured left) contains all the game code for every System 3 through 6 game. The game code is DIP switch selectable. Note that the &amp;quot;sense&amp;quot; of the DIP switch bank is backwards. Follow the on-board silkscreen to the left of the DIP switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note: as of January 2018, Rottendog is no longer claiming support for System 7 games with their MPU327 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some &#039;&#039;&#039;older&#039;&#039;&#039; Rottendog MPU327s were stuffed wrong at the factory. U17, which services the switch columns, should be stuffed with a 74HCT9114. In some boards, that location is stuffed with a 74HCT244, which will not work correctly. Note that there are several revisions of the MPU327 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU327Short.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|A Rottendog MPU327, installed, and shorted to a switch matrix header pin. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image provided by Tony, PinSider &amp;quot;goingincirclez&amp;quot;. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU327ShortCorrection.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|One user&#039;s (excellent) correction for the situation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image provided by Tony, PinSider &amp;quot;goingincirclez&amp;quot;. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog MPU327 PCB design causes the switch matrix row header (2J3) to short to a mounting bracket as shown at left. This can cause the switch column IC at U17 to fail. A simple correction for this issue is shown at right. See the [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/warning-to-rottendog-327-owners-check-it-now original Pinside thread] for additional details.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RD 327 MPU Combo Dipswitch.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Rottendog MPU327 game select dipswitch bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the dipswitch bank used for selecting a specific game has 8 dipswitches, whereas only the 6 switches on the right are the only ones used.  The 2 left dipswitches must be turned &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; (opposite of what is expected of a dipswitch) to &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Driver Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3-6===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-6 drvr.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 3-6 Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board uses three 6821 Peripheral Interface Adapter (PIA) chips to drive:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* an 8x8 Matrix for the Lamps&lt;br /&gt;
* an 8x8 Matrix for the Switches&lt;br /&gt;
* Solenoids and Sound Selects&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More properly, the PIAs were used to drive transistors that in turn drive the lamp matrix, switch matrix, and solenoid circuits. In the case of the solenoids, Darlington transistors are used as &amp;quot;solid state relays&amp;quot;, providing a path to ground for coil power, causing them to energize.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The electronic design choices Williams made became the basis for all subsequent Bally/Williams pinball games and even games being made today. The specific CPU and PIA ICs may change, more memory and ROM space is available to the programmers, MOSFETs are used as the switching relays instead of transistors...yet the basic design established for the lamp matrix, switch matrix, and for energizing coils, remains unchanged.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7===	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 drvr board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board remained almost completely unchanged from System 3 right through to System 7 with the exception of one small change that was made to the driver board during System 7.  Eight resistors were changed to zero-ohm jumpers in the switch matrix inputs to increase sensitivity and responsiveness.  These zero ohm resistors are located in the upper right corner of the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7 Hyperball Specific Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HyperBallSpecificDriverBoard.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 Hyperball Specific Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since Hyperball didn&#039;t need to drive coils other than the cannon coil and the auger motor, and since it needed to drive many more lamps than a normal pinball game, Williams created a unique, special purpose variant of the driver board specifically for Hyperball. This driver board can only be used in Hyperball, and a regular System 3 through 7 driver board can NOT be used in Hyperball.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Power Supplies==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Early_Sys3_Power_Supply.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Early Williams System 3-6 Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6PSSchematic.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Williams System 3-6 Power Supply Schematic]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Power Supply Part Number: D-7999&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 3-6 power supply used in [[Hot Tip]] and [[Lucky Seven]] have a few additional components that later games did not need, physically located a little above the row of four fuses: two .22mfd mylar capacitors and two 1N4001 diodes. If a later power supply is being installed in Hot Tip or Lucky Seven, these components must be added to the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams continued to populate these components for several following games, but they were not utilized. These components can be safely left populated or simply removed from the board when installed in later games.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PowerSupply.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Williams System 7 Power Supply (GI input connector modified from stock)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PSSchematic.png|thumb|300px|right|Williams System 7 Power Supply Schematic]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Power Supply Part Number: D-8345&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the parts bill of materials for some (perhaps all) system 7 games call out a 2N6087 power transistor for Q5. This is most likely a typo. A 2N6057 or 2N6059 should be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Flipper Power Supply==&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 7 C-9939 50V Flipper Power Supply Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:C-9939-Front.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS-C-9939-Back.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Back&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB was first used in Hyperball to control the auger (ball lift) motor. As seen in the pictures above, the PCB layout was designed to accommodate more components than were ever stuffed.  This is because this same board, using different components, is used in some Williams video games. In Firepower II, Laser Cue and Star Light the trimmed down version shown here provides the flipper coils with 50VDC power. The AC voltage supplied to the bridge rectifier originates from a second, smaller, transformer mounted on the wooden plank in the bottom rear of the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the coil voltage this board provides is exactly the same as that of later System 11 games, far stronger Williams coils, such as the FL-11630, can be used in these games. It&#039;s advisable when using these coils to install a 2.2µF capacitor across each EOS switch, to reduce spark across the EOS switch, as was done in later Williams System 11 games. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board suffers from cold solder joints at the header pins (at least). As shown in the picture above, someone did a (poor) job of reflowing the solder on the header pins. A better solution would be to replace the header pins altogether.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The exact same board is used in all System 9 and early System 11 games up until F-14 Tomcat. Data East copied this design. Hence, this 50VDC Power Supply can be used in Data East games from Laser War to Time machine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sound Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During the long run of System 3 through 7 games, Williams used two basic board types, designated Type 1 and Type 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Type 1 Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundFront.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams Type 1 Sound Board back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board is rectangular in shape as pictured at left. Two versions of this board were manufactured. One version placed the 12,000uf 5V filter capacitor vertically. The other version placed the same capacitor horizontally. The boards function identically. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen on the back of the board pictured at right, the board was modified from the factory to add 3 jumpers (the three longer red wires) to make it work correctly. Every Type 1 sound board with a vertical 12,000uf cap should have these jumpers. Type 1 sound boards with a horizontal 12,000uf cap do not require these jumpers as the modification they make has been picked up in the board silkscreen. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; These factory installed jumpers take advantage of trace &amp;quot;vias&amp;quot; to accomplish these connections and removal of one tantalum cap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A long jumper that connects the reset pins on the 6821 PIA (pin 34) and the 6802 (pin 40)&lt;br /&gt;
#Pin 40 of the 6802 also needs to be jumpered to pin 36 of the 6802 for the reset circuit to be complete.&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper pin 35 to pin 8 of the 6802. This ties Vcc1 and Vcc2 together.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams documented &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;additional&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; modifications in the &amp;quot;Flash&amp;quot; manual. The board pictured has been updated with all of these modifications. A drawing of these &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;additional&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; modifications and jumpers can be found [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/d/d5/Sojueen.pdf &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The modifications are:&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between pins 39 and 40 of the 6821 PIA&lt;br /&gt;
#Add two 10K, 1/4W resistors &lt;br /&gt;
#(Possible) replace two 100K resistors with 4.7K, 1/4W resistors. Note that some boards shipped with 4.7K resistors installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Modifications 1 and 2&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;quot;reduce the susceptibility of the sound board to noise&amp;quot;. The &amp;quot;noise&amp;quot; can cause the board to stop execution after a short time, especially when using a 9316B or 2716 ROM. If a sound board makes sound after pressing the diagnostic button, but either makes no other sound, or makes sound for a short time and then quits, these two mods will probably fix this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Modification 3&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;quot;improves the quality of the sound produced at the speaker&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Theory of Operation&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board is about as basic as a sound board can be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*A 3.58Mhz crystal provides the clock signal across pins 38 and 39 of the 6802.&lt;br /&gt;
*A simple reset generator is configured with Q1, Q2, and CR3 (a 6.8V zener diode). As the unregulated 12VDC rises past 6.8V, the zener breaks down, eventually allowing pin 40 of the 6802 to be pulled up to logic high (5V).&lt;br /&gt;
*A diagnostic pushbutton, upper right, grounds the NMI (non-maskable interrupt) signal to the 6802 processor and causes the board to play a diagnostic tune (in most cases).&lt;br /&gt;
*A two position switch selects between &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; (right) or &amp;quot;chimes&amp;quot; (left).&lt;br /&gt;
*A volume adjustment POT is located on the board itself, and is a 5K POT.&lt;br /&gt;
*A 6802 microprocessor controls the board via a 6821 Peripheral Interface Adapter (PIA).&lt;br /&gt;
*The board does not have a RAM IC (like a 6810). Instead, the built-in 128 bytes (yes, 8-bit bytes) of RAM on the 6802 are used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power is provided from the transformer secondary at connector 10J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1,2 - 9VAC&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 5,6 - Ground (center tap)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 7 - Key&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 8,9 - 9VAC &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power is fused and rectified via the &amp;quot;in-line&amp;quot; bridge rectifier immediately below the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
Positive unregulated 12VDC is filtered by a 12,000uf/25V electrolytic capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
Negative unregulated -12VDC is filtered by a 1,000uf/25V electrolytic capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
The positive unregulated 12VDC is regulated down to 5VDC via a 7805 regulator at IC11.&lt;br /&gt;
These three voltages, plus ground, define the power requirements for the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A speaker is connected to 10J2, positive to pins 1/2, ground to pins 3/4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound selects are presented by the driver board to the sound board at connector 10J3. Selecting a particular sound is a matter of grounding the appropriate sound select pins which are normally held high via 4.7K pullup resistors at R37 through R44. Each signal is buffered via the 4050 non-inverting hex buffers at IC8 and IC9.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the sound select signals is connected to both a 4068 8-input NAND gate and to the (software configured) input port of the 6821 PIA (PB0-PB7). The output of the 4068 is connected to pin 18 (CB1) of the 6821 which is configured by the sound board software to create an interrupt to the 6802 processor. When the 6821 PIA interrupts the processor, the interrupt servicing routine reads the input port (PB0-PB7) of the PIA to determine which sound was commanded. The processor pulls sound data from the sound ROM and pushes the data to the 6821 PIA (software configured) output ports (PA0-PB7) one 8 bit byte at a time. The PIA output port signals drive a simple 1408 DAC (digital to analog converter) which produces the analog signal that is stabilized and eventually amplified by a TDA2002 audio amplifier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board shares most of the common faults associated with the Williams System 3-7 board set. Chief among them are:&lt;br /&gt;
#ScanBe sockets. These are well documented to be long past their useful life and should always be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
#Fractured solder joints at the header pins. The Williams manufacturing process trimmed the .156 header pins too short, damaging the solder meniscus. Over time, these solder joints develop fractures. The header pin eventually begins to work itself out of the joint which causes reliability issues.&lt;br /&gt;
#Aged electrolytic capacitors. At the very least, the 12,000uf/25V 5VDC filter capacitor should be replaced. Replacing all of the electrolytic caps is advised. Following is the capacitor parts list.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Electrolytic Capacitors Used&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*C10 - 25uF, 25 Volt Axial (can use 22uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C13 - 500uF, 16 Volt Axial (can use 470uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C14 - 800uF, 16 Volt Axial (can use 1000uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - 100uF, 10 Volt Axial&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 12000uF, 16 Volt Axial &lt;br /&gt;
*C30 - 1000uF, 16 Volt Axial&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-4RectangularSoundBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2 with the horizontal cap, front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Type1soundBoardHorizontalCapBack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2 with the horizontal cap, back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
These images show a Type 1 sound board that was introduced later in production. The 5VDC filter capacitor was turned horizontally. Also, an extra connector was added to enable a remote volume POT. Note that this sound board has been &amp;quot;recapped&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This revision of the sound board picked up the jumper modifications of the earlier board in the PCB design, with one exception. Pins 39 and 40 of the 6821 need to be bridged (or jumped) to avoid the board locking up after a short (and random) period of time. A solder bridge can be seen at pins 39 and 40 of the sound board pictured at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBoardJumper.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2, closeup of jumper to enable onboard sound POT]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later production Type 1 sound boards added a connector to enable a remote volume POT. If the remote POT is not used and the onboard POT is used instead, a jumper must be installed between pins 1 and 2 of this connector. The pictured jumper is quite Gucci. A simple wire jumper on the back of the PCB will suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 1 Sound Board Jumpers==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundFront.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 Sound board can be jumpered to use a 7641 masked ROM, a 9316B masked ROM, or a 2716 (or doubled 2732). The board pictured at left is jumpered to accept either at 9316B or a 2716. To use a 7641 masked ROM, remove the four jumpers to the right and just below the sound ROM, and install the opposite set of four jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Type 2 Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound and Speech Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:JoustType2SoundBoard.jpg ‎|Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board. Note that the board pictured is jumpered for Williams &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Joust&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; head-to-head pinball&lt;br /&gt;
File:HyperballType2SoundBoard.jpg ‎ ‎|Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board. Note that the board pictured is jumpered for Williams &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;HyperBall&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys6-7 sound speech.JPG|Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board with Speech Board Connection. The board pictured is jumpered for games without speech. Removing the jumper at W1 would configure the board for games with a speech board. W1 is located just under the cut key pin on the top left connector. W1 is oriented horizontally&lt;br /&gt;
File:WilliamsType2SoundAndSpeechBoarfPair.jpg ‎|Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board with Speech Board. Note that this -3 revision board features a tantalum capacitor soldered directly between test point 1 (+12VDC) and test point 3 (ground). In later board revisions, this part was added to the PCB design.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type II Sound Board Jumpers====&lt;br /&gt;
Jumpers for each game are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*W2,5,7,9,10,15 - Gorgar, Blackout, Firepower, Black Knight, Jungle Lord, Pharaoh (games with a speech card).&lt;br /&gt;
*W1,2,5,7,9,10,15 - Defender, Solar Fire, Barracora, Stargate, Cosmic Gunfight, Varkon, Time Fantasy (games without a speech card).&lt;br /&gt;
*W1,3,5,7,10,14,15 - Hyperball&lt;br /&gt;
*W1,3,4,5,7,10,15 - Joust (Note that the jumpers listed here are different than listed on the schematic diagram. However, these jumpers have been verified as correct).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Speakers==&lt;br /&gt;
With the exception of Hot Tip and Lucky 7, all Williams System 3-7 games use a single 6-1/2&amp;quot; speaker located on the cabinet. Some later games, like Firepower II, employed an elliptical speaker below the backglass instead).  All speakers used were rated at 8 ohm, 5 watt.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Displays==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Using UDN7180A - Common)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-6 Master Display NE584.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Using NE584 - Less Common)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display discrete.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board w/ Discrete High Voltage Drive Transistors]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-SYS6-displays.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Slave Displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys6a-7 display drvr.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 6A-7 Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-SYS7-displays.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 7-Digit Slave Displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bowler6DigitFace.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Puck Bowler Display Glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bowler6DigitBottom.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Puck Bowler Display Edge Connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Drop Target Banks==&lt;br /&gt;
===First Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drops.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Typical first generation Williams solid state drop target bank (Time Warp)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with the first Williams solid state game, Hot Tip, Williams introduced their version of the solid state drop target bank.  Drop target banks were a rather new design for Williams.  They were the last major pinball manufacturer to introduce the drop target bank earlier in 1977 with the electromechanical game, Big Deal.  And, only 3 games prior to the solid state version of Hot Tip, including the electromechanical version of Hot Tip, were manufactured with drop target banks.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reason for mentioning the background regarding Williams drop target banks is because of the actual design implemented.  There is one distinct difference between Williams drop target banks and any other manufacturer&#039;s drop target bank.  In addition to using a scoring switch for each drop target in a bank, Williams used a secondary set of switches paired in series to detect when all of the drop targets were physically dropped.  The drop target bank frame, reset coil or coils, appearance of the drop target faces on the playfield, and operation of the bank was virtually the same between Williams electromechanical games and solid state games.  Therefore, it is believed that Williams designed their banks this way, because they had not been designing drop target banks that long, and decided upon a legacy approach.  In other words, the Williams solid state drop target banks used hardware instead of software to detect when all the drop targets were down.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drops Back.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Backside of Williams first generation drop targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The design of the drop targets are very different from any other manufacturer&#039;s design.  Unlike Bally, Stern, or Gottlieb, the Williams drop target is a meaty, reinforced plastic which is fairly consistent in thickness and width throughout the target.  Williams does not use a face with a long neck stemmed down in size.  The benefit to this design is that breakage is minimized.  The downside to this design is extra added weight.  There are several other design differences too, such as the compression spring used to pull the target down.  It is physically screwed to the front of the drop target plastic, as opposed to being attached via a molded &amp;quot;hook&amp;quot; like other manufacturers.  This too is a plus, because the molded hooks on other drop target systems are prone to breakage.  However, probably the most recognizable difference is the drop target switch design.  On the back side of a Williams drop target, a switch triggering mechanism in the form of a copper horseshoe with two contacts is physically screwed to the plastic.  The combination of the horseshoe contacts and discrete circuit boards for each target mounted to the bank of the bank are what is used to detect the three states of the drop target position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Drop Anim.GIF|300px|thumb|left|Simulation of the three different states of a Williams drop target]]&lt;br /&gt;
A simulation of the operation of a Williams drop target switch can be viewed at the animation located to the left. As mentioned before, the horseshoe contact is attached to the backside of the drop target plastic.  The horseshoe contact makes physical contact with the thick copper or tinned traces of the circuit board, which is secured to the backside of the drop target bank.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An explanation of the three different states of the drop target are:&lt;br /&gt;
#When the horseshoe contact is located at the uppermost set of traces, the first frame in the animation, the drop target is in the upright position (fully reset).&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the drop target face is struck by the ball, the drop target plastic is pushed from the metal ledge of the metal drop target frame.  As the drop target falls, the horseshoe contacts slide over a second set of traces on the circuit board, as seen in the second frame of the animation.  These contacts are tied to the switch matrix via a switch strobe and return line respectively.  The switch strobe line is common to all drop targets in the bank, while each drop target in a bank will have its own switch return line.  Each switch pair is used for scoring purposes.&lt;br /&gt;
#Finally, the drop target will fully drop, and the contacts come to rest on a third set of traces on the circuit board.  This set of traces is tied in series from one drop target circuit board to the other.  Because the pairs of traces for each target are tied together in series, a switch, secondary to the individual scoring switches is used.  Once all of the targets in the bank are dropped, the series switch circuit is complete.  The switch matrix detects this as a single switch closure.  In turn, the drop target bank is reset.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drop Bank Marked.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Switch solder points identified on a drop target bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the maze of similar-colored wires on the back of a Williams first generation drop target bank, it can be somewhat intimidating as to what wire goes where.  The switch return lines (white wires with colored traces) attach to the solder tabs of the eyelets.  Likewise, the non-banded side of the diode attaches to the same solder tab of the eyelet.  The switch strobe line (green wire with a colored trace) can be attached to any of the points circled in green.  On the bank in the adjacent pic, the switch strobe wire was attached to the green circled area on the far right.  The black and gray wires are sometimes substituted with different colors like yellow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Second Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Leaf Drops.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Typical second generation Williams drop target bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Black Knight, Williams slightly changed the design of the drop target bank.  Instead of using horseshoe contacts and circuit boards for switch detection on each drop target, the horseshoe contacts were replaced with a copper leaf spring and the discrete circuit boards were replaced with leaf switch stacks.  Detecting when all the drop targets down was now handled via software.  There are subtle physical differences in the drop target plastic.  The most obvious difference is the thickness of the bottom of the drop target.  The thickness was increased to compensate for the use of bottom mounted leaf switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Third Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+++ Need pic of drop target bank with microswitches +++&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The third and final generation of System 3-7 drop target banks are essentially the same as the second generation.  The main difference is that microswitches were used to detect when a drop target drops versus leaf switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Additional Diagnostics - Pincoder test ROMs==&lt;br /&gt;
A comprehensive set of free, third party diagnostic/test ROMs can be found here: http://pincoder.ca&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ROMs can be used in-game to test individual components of your pinball machine. Additionally, the RAM and CMOS tests thoroughly check all addressable locations within each chip, resulting in extremely accurate results.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Support for these ROMs can be found on Pinside here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-williams-system-6-in-game-test-roms&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Recommended Modifications=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Add Fuses Between the Transformer Secondary and Backbox Bridge Rectifiers==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6_Fused_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Firepower)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 3-7 Fused Bridges Inline Butt Connectors.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Inline fuse holders installed with solderless crimp butt connectors]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams failed to include fuses in the AC connection between the transformer secondary and the solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers. In theory, the primary power fuse should blow if one of these bridges short. However, this is not always the case. Sometimes, the bridges short in such a manner that the wiring from the transformer secondary to the bridge becomes the fuse, and the wiring insulation melts until something gives. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This problem can be addressed by adding 2 fuse blocks and two 8 amp slo-blo fuses. For each bridge, afuse is added between either transformer secondary wire and the bridge. The AC inputs to the bridge are both marked with a &#039;tilde&#039; on the BR which looks like an &#039;S&#039; on it&#039;s side:   &#039;&#039;&#039;~&#039;&#039;&#039;.  The wire colors are typically red for solenoids, and blue for the controlled lamps.  However, it is best to consult the game schematics to confirm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although the preferred method is to put fuse holders on the backbox wall, installing fuses in any configuration is paramount. One way is to use inline fuse holders, and solderless crimp butt connectors. This is a quick and easy alternative, even though it may not be the prettiest solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FirePowerAdditionalFusing.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The Firepower schematics, updated to include two 8ASB fuses between the transformer secondary and both the solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams incorporated an 8A normal-blo fuse in later games (Big Guns and newer), while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem is the Inkochnito Bridge Board that can be found at this link: http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 and System 4 games did not incorporate a fuse for the 9.3VAC supply lines. If either diode D7 or D8 shorts, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;something&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; in the circuit will act as a fuse. Sometimes, a board trace acts as a fuse under these conditions. It is much, much better to add two 4 amp slo-blo fuses directly after the transformer, just as Williams did when System 6 games were introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==MPU Batteries &amp;amp; Memory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Relocating the batteries away from the MPU board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|120px|thumb|left|Leaking Battery]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3xAA batteries from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; is displayed in the credit/match display, rather than the game going into attract mode, then the game is in audits mode:&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the 5101 CMOS RAM (check Test Point TP7, which should measure 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v (or so) with the power off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking Diode D18 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There is another problem holding settings, such as a faulty 5101 CMOS RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries is not really an option as the game will not boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on. It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (usually obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores  It&#039;s possible on System 3-7 games to switch the game off, and then quickly back on to go from the &#039;04 00 audit mode&#039; to attract mode. Credits would still need to be added by the coin switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear= all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remote Battery Pack===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board (see driver board pic below). Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea, so the pack can easily remove the battery pack from the board. Plus, it the batteries are forgotten and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. Another solution is to buy a battery holder with the &#039;transistor radio&#039; type connector which can be snapped on and off. Just be very careful if using this style of connector. Adding a tag noting that a &#039;&#039;&#039;9 volt battery should never be connected&#039;&#039;&#039; is a very good idea. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement. If only a 4 x AA battery holder is a available, a diode or jumper can be soldered in the first position. A diode is the preferred approach, as this will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D17 on the MPU board fails. Keep in mind that an added secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the 5101, if D17 is still good. Locate a 1N4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the Red wire and towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The game takes 3 x AA Batteries, so it uses at least 4.5v total. However, it will still store settings down to about 3v or so. After that an AA battery&#039;s life will taper off very quickly. A fresh set of batteries should last for at least a year, or the is some other issue. If the 5101 CMOS RAM is socketed, it&#039;s possible that it isn&#039;t the low power version. Or, possibly the D17 diode has shorted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The images below illustrate how to install the wiring for battery packs on the different MPU Boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_sys4_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 4 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_sys6a_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 6 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 6(a) MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Top Right pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Bottom Left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_sys7_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 7 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 7 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board. All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; can be somewhat common. Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another good practice, while the MPU board is already out, is to check the D17 blocking diode. An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the 5101 non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective. Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack. This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on. If Alkaline batteries are charged, they will be damaged and fail, leak, or (in extreme cases) explode. Testing the D17 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out. When in doubt, replace the D17 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack. Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5101, if D17 is still good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms drvr bat dam.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Alkaline Damaged Williams Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to remotely relocate the batteries from the MPU board, unless using a lithium replacement. The potential is there for not only the MPU to become damaged, but other associated boards in the backbox. The pic to the left is a prime example of extended damage. The damage occurred in this instance, because the shuffle bowler this board came from was stored with the batteries still on the MPU board for an extended period of time (roughly 5-8 years). It&#039;s a costly shame, because this was an otherwise decent, clean, working driver board. The amount of repairs which have to be performed now are going to be extensive.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Installing a Lithium Coin Cell Battery Backup===&lt;br /&gt;
An alternate solution to a remotely located battery pack is to use a single CR2032 battery and holder mounted on the MPU. Lithium button batteries do leak, although not nearly as commonly or as severe as alkaline batteries. And, since the battery will be contained in a holder mounted above the PCB, there is little risk of corrosion attacking the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The holder and replacement batteries are inexpensive.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The following photo gallery shows the installation procedure.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This method can be adapted to work with all Williams System 3-7 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 4 MPU Coin Cell Installation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-1.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Small hole drilled at intersection of holder pin &amp;quot;arc&amp;quot; and trace on board solder side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-2.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Battery holder installed, front side. Note the &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; soldered between the top left and top right battery holder holes.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-3.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Battery holder installed, rear side. Note the negative connection marked lower right and the path of the positive connection.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6ButtonBattery.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 6 MPU Coin Cell Installation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Coin cell installation on a System 6 MPU board is slightly different physically but exactly the same electrically.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7CoinCellBatteryHolder.png ‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 7 MPU Coin Cell Installation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Coin cell installation on a System 7 MPU board is slightly different physically but exactly the same electrically.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Installing a Memory Capacitor (SuperCap) Instead of Batteries===&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor.  In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is minimal compared to a rechargeable battery.  When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor.  When the game is turned off, the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time.  Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again.  If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 3/4====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-4SuperCap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|5.5V 1F Memory Capacitor Added to a System 3 MPU Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a SuperCap, the polarity of the cap needs to match the battery pad polarity. Connect the negative lead of the cap to ground. In the picture at left, the old top center battery holder connection was leveraged as an attach point. A jumper (not shown) on the back of the board connects from there to the edge of board ground. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the positive lead to the the upper right battery holder connection through hole.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove D18 and replace with a 100ohm 1/4W resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, leave the game powered on to allow the game to charge the capacitor fully. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes allows the capacitor to recharge.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 6====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Mem Cap.JPG|300px|thumb|left|5.5V 1.5F Memory Capacitor Added to a System 6 MPU Board. Labels added to help locate parts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a SuperCap, the polarity of the cap needs to match the battery pad polarity. Connect the negative lead of the cap to ground. Connect the positive lead to the banded side of diode D18 (1N5817).  The picture to the left shows a jumper added to connect the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 6 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
As an alternative to running the positive lead of the cap to diode D18, the positive cap lead is installed in the positive battery terminal. The diode at D17 (1N4148) is removed, and a 100ohm resistor (or similar value) replaces the diode. Adding a resistor in place of D17 allows the game to charge the capacitor.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, leave the game powered on to allow the game to charge the capacitor fully. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes allows the capacitor to recharge. If the cap is losing its charge rapidly, diode D18 may be faulty, and should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7====&lt;br /&gt;
Follow these steps to add a SuperCap to a System 7 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a 1/16&amp;quot; hole NorthWest of the upper right positive battery terminal solder pad. The distance from the positive battery terminal hole should be the width of the SuperCap leads. The hole will be pierce a large ground trace on the solder side of the board (right hand image).&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the SuperCap positive lead through the battery terminal solder pad. &lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the SuperCap negative lead to the ground trace on the solder side of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove diode D17, a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a 100ohm (or thereabouts) 1/4W resistor in place of D17. Polarity is not important as resistors have no polarity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following images demonstrate the procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 7 MPU SuperCap Installation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1/16&amp;quot; hole drilled for the negative &amp;quot;leg&amp;quot; of the SuperCap.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The SuperCap and 100ohm resistor installed.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The solder side of the board showing SuperCap connections.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Installing NVRAM ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NVRAM (non-volatile RAM) can be used in all Williams System 3 through 7 MPUs. By installing NVRAM, batteries will never, ever, be required to retain game settings and high scores. The possibility of spewing alkaline onto the board is eliminated. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 3-7 games, the 5101 RAM chip is always at IC19, although the actual physical position of IC19 on the MPU differs between the systems. Unfortunately, the 5101 RAM is &#039;&#039;&#039;always&#039;&#039;&#039; soldered directly onto the board. It must be desoldered and replaced with a 22-pin 0.3&amp;quot; width socket to accommodate the NVRAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NVRAM are discussed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=MPU_Battery_Replacement_Options#Products here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Improving the Early System 3 Flipper Response==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the early solid state games, Williams re-used the flipper mechanism from their electromechanical games. This design, composed of multiple pieces screwed to the bottom of the playfield, is functional but somewhat clunky in operation. There are those that advocate scrapping the mechanism and replacing it with modern Williams baseplate design flippers. While this certainly works, and provides a much nicer flipper response, it also costs money for new parts when the old parts can be made to work reasonably well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, rebuild the flipper assembly with fresh parts. This includes the coil stops, plunger and links, coil sleeves, EOS switches, cabinet switches, and pawls (if needed). Pinball Resource has all these parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This leaves a functional, reasonably strong, but &#039;clunky&#039; flipper. It will work, but it will not seem as &#039;snappy&#039; and &#039;fast&#039; as a modern game. While the modern (WPC) baseplate style flipper mechanism is nice, the most important change is actually not the baseplate, it is the modern flipper bat itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a slight difference in mass between the original bat at 1.5 oz and the new bat at a little under 1 oz, but what accounts for the difference is the way the mass is distributed. On the old flipper design, a heavy metal base is welded to the shaft, and the plastic bat is screwed to the base. On the new design, the plastic bat is simply molded to the shaft, eliminating the base entirely.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams Flipper Bat Comparison&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 3 flipper bat assembly (two-piece)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat4.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams molded flipper bat assembly&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper coil is energized, it begins accelerating the plunger, pulling it in to the centre of the coil. This acceleration is transmitted to the shaft via the crank, accelerating the flipper bat. In this rotational acceleration of the bat, the further the mass is from the centre of the shaft, the more work required to accelerate it, and the slower the rate of acceleration. (Incidentally, this is why magnesium wheels first became popular in drag racing; they are lighter than steel wheels and increase the car&#039;s rate of acceleration. It does not change the car&#039;s top speed, but it does reduce the time it takes the car to reach top speed, making it quicker.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of the coil&#039;s power stroke, the plunger slams in to the coil stop, rapidly decelerating. In turn, then, the link, crank, and flipper bat also slam in to the previous part and rapidly decelerate. In this part of the action, the higher mass of the old flipper bat has more momentum, and due to the location of that mass, has more leverage to apply the force of the momentum. This leads to a hard clunk as all of that mass slams to a stop, and often results in a flipper bat that &#039;bounces&#039; at the end of stroke.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The solution to both of these is to reduce the mass of the flipper bat, especially reducing it as far from the centre line of the flipper shaft as possible. Looking at the options, there are only three pieces to the flipper bat. The plastic bat is not really easily modified to reduce any serious mass. The screw that holds the plastic bat to the base is not easy to reduce in mass, and being located close to the centre line of the flipper shaft, it has very little effect on the operation. That leaves the flipper shaft and its welded on base.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The shaft itself has significant mass, but the mass of the shaft is located very close to the centre line, so it can be ignored as well. That, then, leaves the base. Here there is quite a lot of mass, and much of it is located a good distance from the centre line of the flipper shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First remove the plastic shoe from the bat (there is a single screw underneath the bat). Then screw the metal bat to a piece of scrap wood, and drill the metal bat baseplate to remove metal. This is easiest to do neatly with a drill press. Drill two 5/16&amp;quot; hole near the shaft, and progressively  smaller holes toward the tip. A total of seven holes can be drilled: 5/16&amp;quot;, 5/16&amp;quot;, 1/4&amp;quot;, 7/32&amp;quot;, 3/16&amp;quot;, 5/32&amp;quot;, 1/8&amp;quot;. These holes remove about 1/2 oz from the flipper bat assembly without significantly affecting its strength or durability. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 3 Flipper Bat Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Drilling the flipper bat shoe&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Flipper bat shoe after being drilled&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reassemble the flipper bat, install, and enjoy. The flippers should feel snappier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Problems and Fixes=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FirePowerCrossConnect.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|These two FirePower connectors are clearly misconnected as can be seen by different wire colors entering and leaving the connector pair. The connector colors should not be trusted. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Kevin Scholbe&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU and/or driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Advanced Diagnostic Tool by Pincoder==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
An advanced diagnostic tool with full (downloadable) documentation and active support is available here: [https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/ Pincoder Adapter]. The Adapter simply plugs into the MPU board right out of the box and can be used in-game for all tests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Built In Diagnostics==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3DiagnosticButtonCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diagnostic switch location on a WMS System 3 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSDiagSwitch.jpg|300px|thumb|Right|The internals of the diagnostic switches. These are single pole, double throw switches spring loaded to close one side of the switch]]The built in diagnostics of the Williams System 3 - 7 board set are extremely limited. The board set either powers up or it doesn&#039;t. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two diagnostic LEDs on the MPU (system 7 MPUs feature a 7 segment display). However, the usefulness of these LEDs is at best limited and generally just confusing. A properly booting System 3-6 game will flash both LEDs once, and then the LEDs will remain off. This flash is a bit longer than a flicker, staying on for about 1/2 second. A properly booting System 7 game will flash a zero on the 7 segment display. The 7 segment display will then go blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the Diagnostic button on a properly functioning System 3 - 6 MPU will cause both LEDs to flash twice in unison and then go off. If the bottom LED remains on, the game software is indicating a ROM failure. If the top LED remains on, the game software is indicating a RAM failure (6810). And if both LEDs remain on, the game software is indicating a CMOS RAM failure (5101). However, the accuracy of this test is questionable since the game software must be functioning properly for the test report to be valid and the game software requires ROM and RAM to function in the first place. The short advice is: don&#039;t rely on this diagnostic test result.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 games &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;require&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; the diagnostic button (lower button) to be pressed to start diagnostics. Once that button is pressed, navigating through the diagnostic menu is identical to later game systems (see below).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the Diagnostic button on a properly functioning System 7 MPU will cause the 7 segment display to flash a zero and then go blank. System 7 diagnostics are a bit more useful than prior Williams game systems but are still not 100% trustworthy. If the MPU built-in-test software detects a problem with the game hardware, the 7 segment display will remain on with an error code displayed. Possible error codes are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*0 - and then goes out...all tests passed&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - IC13 RAM or IC20 ROM failed&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - IC16 RAM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - IC17 ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - IC17 ROM failure (duplicated test...yes)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - IC20 ROM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - IC14 Game ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - IC26 Game ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*8 - IC19 (5101) RAM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
*9 - IC19 (5101 again) RAM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;To test displays, lamps, coils and switches for System 3 and 4 games, follow this procedure first, then proceed to the System 6-7 procedure below .&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Entering the familiar diagnostic mode of later game systems is a bit less intuitive with a System 3 or 4 game. To enter diagnostics, press the diagnostic button on the MPU once. This is the lower of the two buttons as pictured at left. Both LEDs should flash and all displays will go blank. At this point, the game is ready to accept new game settings like &amp;quot;balls per play&amp;quot; via the obtuse and ridiculous to use dip switches on the MPU. Skipping over the process that essentially amounts to &amp;quot;memory pokes&amp;quot; (who remembers that), the diagnostics can now be controlled from the front door switches. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is in the MANUAL position, pressing the ADVANCE button will cause each score display to show all zeros. The next press will show all ones, etc. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is in the AUTO position, pressing the ADVANCE button will cause the score displays to begin cycling, starting with all zeros, then all ones, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating System 3 and 4 game diagnostic entry can be found &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;[https://youtu.be/Bq7Bubb5X6w here]&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7CoinDoorSwitches.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3 - 7 Coin Door Switches]]&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;For System 6-7 games, follow this procedure to test displays, lamps, coils and switches.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the AUTO/MANUAL switch in the MANUAL position, press the ADVANCE button. This will cause each score display to show all zeros. Pressing the ADVANCE button again will display all ones, etc. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is moved to the AUTO position, the score displays will advance automatically through each of the digits (zero through 9). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the AUTO/MANUAL switch still in the AUTO position, press the ADVANCE button to advance to the next test. The match portion of the credit/match display will show &amp;quot;01&amp;quot; and all playfield lamps will begin to cycle on/off. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing ADVANCE again will display &amp;quot;02&amp;quot; in the match window, and the game will begin an ordered activation of each coil in sequence (including buzzers, flashers, etc). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing ADVANCE again will display &amp;quot;03&amp;quot; in the match window. This is &amp;quot;switch test&amp;quot; mode. If no switches are closed, the credit half of the credit/match window will be blank. Closing a switch will result in the switch number being displayed in the credit window. If more than one switch is closed when switch test begins, the number of each switch will be displayed once in the credit window. After that point, only closing a switch will cause it&#039;s number to be displayed. i.e. switch test does not cycle through all closed switches but instead displays ONLY the last switch closure detected (at least in System 3 games).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the ADVANCE button one more time displays &amp;quot;04&amp;quot; in the match window, and game status information is displayed in sequence, automatically for system 3 and 4 games and by pressing the advance button for system 6 and 7 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating System 6 and 7 game diagnostic entry can be found &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;[https://youtube.com/shorts/9BEh5Qn_sWA here]&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Quick Start: Repairing a Williams System 3-7 MPU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The procedure for repairing a Williams MPU is outlined below. More detail can be found later in this document.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace the power header at 1J2, which is located on the left side of the MPU. The cornerstone of a well running MPU is clean, consistent power. Tarnished connections, worn connections that have exceeded the mate cycle spec, and cracked header pin solder joints all negatively impact power.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If the OEM chip sockets are still on the board, replace them with quality twin leaf or machine pin sockets. Good chip sockets will ensure rock solid connections between the ICs and the various busses.  Always replace Scanbe and white Molex sockets - no exceptions!&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:OEMROMs.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The ROM on the right in this picture has obviously been heat stressed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Examine the 40-pin male connector closely. If it exhibits any of the following characteristics, replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
*Tarnished pins&lt;br /&gt;
*Corroded pins (due to batteries on the MPU leaking corrosive alkaline)&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured solder joints&lt;br /&gt;
*Solder joint “craters”, i.e. an attempt to “reflow” the solder joint that doesn’t adhere to the pin very well.  The solder surrounds the pins, but does not create a solid electrical connection to the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Verify the ROM contents. The OEM ROMs at least 30 years old, and have been subjected to thousands of hours of heat, consequently reducing their reliability. Replacing them with known good ROMs is a better option if possible.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Measure power coming onto the board at the filter capacitor. About 5VDC should be present, with very little AC component (measure AC too).&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Test socketed processors and PIAs in a known working board. AMI branded chips seem to experience a much higher failure rate than any other brand and are always suspect.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use a logic probe to test the processor reset signal at pin 40. The signal should start low at power on, then go high a split second later.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;With a schematic of the board handy, “sanity check” each pin on the processor to ensure each leg is doing something that makes sense. i.e. data lines D0-D7 should be pulsing.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Make certain the blanking signal goes high and remains high almost immediately after successful MPU boot. The blanking signal is easily tested at pin 37 of the 40-pin interconnect board.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Install Leon’s test ROM to verify processor, PIA, and memory operation.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Further Recommended Reliability Improvements===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace all headers. Reflowing solder does not create a solid mechanical or electrical connection.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace masked ROMs with new ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
#Update the MPU to use fewer sockets. i.e. use a 2716 (or double the image into a 2732) at IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the backup battery to a remote location or install NVRAM. Batteries should be removed from the MPU board as soon as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding System 3-6-like Diagnostic LEDs to a System 7 MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7DiagnosticLEDAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diagram depicting addition of 2 LEDs and 2 resistors that provide the same function as System 3-6 MPU boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7FactoryLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A System 7 MPU with factory installed diagnostic LEDs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 7 MPUs replaced the two diagnostic LEDs of past systems with a 7-Segment LED display to provide diagnostic indications. At times, the 7447 driver IC or the 7-segment LED display itself can fail. Or perhaps running system 3-6 software in the board, while retaining the LED diagnostic capability, is the objective. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rather than replacing the 7-Segment display or 7447, adding System 3-7-like LEDs to the MPU is easy. Procure 2 standard LEDs and two 1/4 watt resistors of any value between 100 ohms and 560 ohms. Incrementally higher ohm resistors will dim the LEDs incrementally, but can still be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Add two resistors on the right-most pads as pictured at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add two LEDs to the top two available pads as pictured at left, with the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; (the short leg or anode) oriented toward the 7-segment display. It&#039;s as easy as that.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Quick Start: Repairing a Williams System 3-7 Driver Board==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The detailed procedures for repairing a Williams driver board can be found later in this document.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace the 40-pin female interconnect. Due to fatigue and/or battery damage (alkaline corrosion), this connector can and will become unreliable over time.  Replace it.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace all headers. Reflowing solder does not create a solid mechanical or electrical connection.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace all suspect chip sockets. PIAs on the driver board were the only chips socketed from the factory on this board. However, the factory used crappy Scanbe sockets for these chips. If Scanbe sockets are present, replace them.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Inspect the PIA chips.  If AMI chips were used, suspect eventual, premature failure.  Replace if possible.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If the factory 3 watt current limiting resistors in the lamp matrix appear heat damaged, replace them with 27 ohm 5 watt resistors. &amp;quot;Sand&amp;quot; resistors are a good replacement choice.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If heavy heat damage is present in the vicinity of the lamp matrix power resistors, suspect potential failure of the lamp matrix ICs (IC13 &amp;amp; IC14) located just above the resistors. In practice, these chips don&#039;t fail due to the high temperature environment.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing==&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes it is more beneficial to do testing / troubleshooting while the MPU and / or driver boards are outside of the game.  It&#039;s unfortunate, but the System 3-7 boards were designed in such a way that both the MPU and driver board have to be attached to one another for the MPU to effectively boot and function.  Since the driver board has no intelligence located on it, it needs to be connected to the MPU to be of any use.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 On Bench.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS System 6 MPU and Driver Board Powered by a PC Power Supply.  Power connections are attached to the readily available test points on the MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Bench Power.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS System 7 MPU and Driver Board Powered by a PC Power Supply.  Power connections are attached to IJ2 on the MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The voltages needed to power a System 3-7 board pair on the bench are +5v, +12v, and ground.  Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on 1J2 (only header connection on left side of MPU board).  The connections are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1-3 (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 4- 6  (+5 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 (+12 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If connecting a &#039;&#039;&#039;System 6 or 7 board pair&#039;&#039;&#039;, it is easier to connect to the test points.  The connections are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 1 (+12 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 9 (+5 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 10 (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that test points 9 and 10 have different locations between a System 6 and 7 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting a Logic Probe to the Williams System 3-7 MPU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3LogicProbeConnection.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Connecting a logic probe to a System 3-7 MPU. This picture is a System 3 MPU.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6LogicProbeConnection.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method to connect a logic probe on a System 6/6A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The easiest way to power the logic probe is across the input power&#039;s electrolytic filter cap, as shown on this Williams System 3 board at left.&lt;br /&gt;
All MPUs, including Systems 3, 4, 6, 6A, and 7, feature this cap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU and driver board logic are electrically connected and powered by the same source, connecting the probe to the MPU allows probing driver board logic also.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Connectors, connectors, connectors==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms cracked solder joints.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Cracked solder joints on the header pins of a Williams driver board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With this era of game, most of them 30+ years old now, and they will have problems with connectors. One of the most common issues is cracked solder joints on header pin connections to the PCBs. Some cracks are more obvious than others, while some can only be seen clearly under proper magnification.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms header solder removed.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Solder removed from the header pins of a Williams driver board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Although it can be somewhat time consuming and a tedious chore, it is best to remove the old solder from a header pin joint, and then add new, fresh solder. Performing this procedure is a necessity on these games to ensure reliability. The other option is removing the header pin connection completely, and replace with a new one.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game starts to reset for no reason during play, or when both flippers are engaged, it may be worth first re-pinning the connectors at 1J2 on the MPU Board and at the outputs from the PSU. This is always a good step even if it does not fix the immediate issue, as it avoids power problems later on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This will involves replacing the header pins on the PSU board and the female connectors on the cables. The pins are .156&amp;quot; and square pins are preferred, although round are still available. Use phosphor bronze. On the female side, crimp pins of the trifuricon type are best. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Second prize goes to reflowing solder to the back of the header pins, and just replacing the female IDC connectors with new ones. In that case rather than a crimper, the .156&amp;quot; &#039;punch-down&#039; tool &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;must&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; be used for this replacement to work correctly. If the correct tool is not used, the IDC housing and pins will be damaged, especially if a screwdriver or some other makeshift tool is used. After that, the wires just don&#039;t seat correctly and will not maintain proper contact. Always cut back to clean wire and punch down correctly to a new IDC connector, reusing an old one rarely works.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the connector is a .156&amp;quot; 9-way connector at 1J2. There is also a &#039;key&#039; pin where the hole is blanked off on the connectors and the pin cut off flush with the board. This prevents plugging the power in to say the switch matrix or swapping two connectors over. It&#039;s easiest to just buy a bag of these for blanking off the &#039;key&#039; positions, rather than try to re-use old ones.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Wiring Connector Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7BlownICs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Socketed and replaced ICs blown by incorrect connector hookup.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams made a poor wiring harness design decision with this series of games that allows the cabinet harness to be connected to the head harness (36 pin inline connectors). Mating these connectors incorrectly will short the 28V solenoid circuit to the logic voltage level circuit, destroying ICs on the MPU and perhaps the driver board. Always be sure to double check connector pin counts and colors, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;but most importantly,&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; wire colors going into and out of both sides of the connector. Connector color is not a 100% reliable indicator as Williams sometimes used white connectors, sometimes used black connectors for both, and sometimes may even have used one black and one white connector. Wire colors should always match up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A real world example on a System 7 Jungle Lord, pictured at left, resulted in MPU IC7 (7404), IC32 (7400), and IC12 (7408) being blown. The 5101 wasn&#039;t destroyed. On the driver board, IC16 (7406) was also damaged. The amount of damage can vary, however, other instances suggest a similar path of destruction. The best course of action should this occur is to spend a lot of time with a DMM in diode test, checking each individual IC. Socketed ICs, like the 5101 and the 6808/2 can be easily tested in a known working system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 7 MPU Board Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
Diagnostics, and the &#039;System 7 MPU Board won&#039;t boot&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Forget about getting anything at all on the Player Displays without having working ROMs in place and a good MPU board.  Blanking has to go &#039;high&#039; before the displays will work.  So coin door game diagnostics are useless until the MPU board runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But help is at hand on the System 7 MPU, Williams added a single 7 segment LED display to the board. To get anything at all on the 7 segment display LED on the MPU, these conditions must be met:&lt;br /&gt;
* The 74LS47 Display Driver IC34 to be working.&lt;br /&gt;
* The  6821 PIA (at IC18) on the MPU responsible for driving the score displays to be working.&lt;br /&gt;
* The logic +5v to be good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally when a properly functioning board boots, the 7 segment LED display will flash &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; briefly and then the display is turned off, and remains off. If within a game, the game would then be in attract mode if everything was perfect.  Pressing diagnostics should show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and then return to attract mode with the LED display blank.  [ed Note: Correct me if that is wrong]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the above-mentioned chips are installed and working and the sockets have been replaced or tested good:&lt;br /&gt;
* With no ROMs installed, a board with a fault or a ROM fault if they are installed, the &amp;quot;top two&amp;quot; LEDs (if there) would be lit and the LED display would show &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.  The MPU board is &#039;locked up&#039;, in that condition.&lt;br /&gt;
* Display Driver PIA IC PA4 - PA7 will be high.  Pressing the * Diagnostic switch will not change things.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then an OS is needed, which is the &#039;Flipper ROMs&#039; in pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
When they &#039;Boot&#039; (provide a set of instructions to the CPU)- even with the Game ROM removed, the fist thing they do is to &amp;quot;turn off&amp;quot; the LEDs 1+2 and so the onboard LED display (7447) would then go blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fact, &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; should flash once and go blank.  That means the board is not locked and at least booted the OS.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Installing a good Game ROM after that may provide access to the diagnostics if everything is working up to this point.  Pressing the diagnostic switch should then provide a (hopefully) valid indication of what component is stopping the (pinball or whatever) from running. Here are the key indications (for System 7, Sys 8&amp;amp;9 may be similar):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These results can appear with error conditions by using the Flipper and Game ROMs, or the 2532 WMS Test ROM in IC17 (on Sys 7 boards):&lt;br /&gt;
If all the support chips are good, and one &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; flash appears and then goes blank, then the on-board error display can be trusted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;&#039;Press the diagnostic button, the numbers are:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; |System 7 LED Diagnostics&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Meaning&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|0 || Test Passed (only if display goes blank)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || IC13 RAM Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || IC16 RAM Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || IC17 ROM 2 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || IC17 ROM 2 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || IC20 ROM I Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || IC14 Game ROM 1 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || IC26 Game ROM 0 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || IC19 CMOS RAM or memory protect circuit faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || Coin-door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or IC19 CMOS RAM Faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Getting a 0 and remaining on could potentially be that the CPU / board has not successfully reset.  In other words, no instructions have been passed to and from the CPU chip.  This problem could be due to a faulty reset circuit.  The lack of +12v on the MPU board can cause this too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Getting an 8 or 9 is *good* indication - it means the board is almost there!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some further tips about those conditions:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8  - MPU board may be good. Is it looking for the Driver Board?  (Like the missing 7th flash on a Bally MPU).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure the Driver Board is connected and the &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; interconnect has continuity on all pins.&lt;br /&gt;
From System 8 on there is no interconnect... so by System 9 MPU and Driverboard (and Sound!) are all one PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then suspect that IC19 RAM is faulty or finally a memory protect fault.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9 - First check for coin door closed (or pin 1J4-1 or 1J3-1 is being grounded), then is IC7 faulty? Finally is IC19 RAM faulty?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is displayed, it may be tempting to install it in a game, open the coin door, and try and boot up. But this is wrong, as there still is a problem on the board. Either the IC19 5101 CMOS Ram is faulty, or another memory protect component is faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remember to do the &amp;quot;switch on, off and back on again quick&amp;quot; trick to see attract mode appears when reinstalling in a game after taking an MPU out. Many times, that does the trick.  Also, if removing the Driver Board and reinserting it on the MPU board &#039;fixes&#039; the problems and the boards will then boot correctly, then it points to the &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; connector needing to be replaced.  Both header pins on the MPU and sockets on the Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Parts:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 7-Segment display can be replaced with a KINGBRIGHT  SA03-12HDB  LED  0.3&amp;quot;  RED  DISPLAY.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5101 CMOS RAM.  5101-1 The low power version is needed, as it needs battery backup to hold RAM contents when the game is powered off.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A 6821 PIA is a standard part. MC6821 MC68B21 are common.  The 6820 designation is much earlier but also works.  Other designations:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
xx6821, xx68A21, xx68B21, where xx can be MC (Motorola) or HD (Hitachi Data) will all work.  The &#039;A&#039; in 68A21 means the PIA will run at up to a 1.5Mhz Clock , the &#039;B&#039; in 68B21 means up to a 2Mhz clock, without any letter is up to 1MHz. Any final letter is Package type (P,S or L)  P=Plastic S=Cerdip and L=Ceramic.  Any of the above speeds or package types will work for this era of pinball, so the letters can be ignored and any 6820 or 6821 can be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Chip Sockets==&lt;br /&gt;
Reliable socket connections are a requirement for any printed circuit board to work as designed. Old sockets, as discussed below, should be replaced.  Use extreme care in desoldering the old sockets, the traces and pads on circuit boards are easily lifted, especially if any battery corrosion is in the area.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The chip sockets on old Williams boards (also most any board of this era) are long past their reliable lifetimes. They may work, but they may also cause intermittent connections that will have you chasing your tail tracking down odd problems with the game. Like the 40-pin interconnect used in Williams System 3-7 games, these sockets should always be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Perhaps the most maligned socket brand, and rightfully so, is the Scanbe brand. In the picture below, it can be seen why. These 30+ year old sockets passed the point of reliability many years ago. Included in the Scanbe socket picture below are two pins pulled from a Scanbe socket. The pins were designed to grip the SIDES of the IC legs, unlike the design of modern sockets that grip the front and back faces of the IC leg. Get rid of them now.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later, WMS switched to sockets made by Augat or Raychem (all Tyco now). They occasionally go bad, but they can usually be left alone. But there is another type made by Molex which should also be replaced if it is found on a PCB. When looking at the picture below, it can be seen why. Curvy isn&#039;t it? And the contacts break easily too. Not as bad as the Scanbe but not much better either.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=5 caption=&amp;quot;Poor quality and old sockets found on many early pinball machine circuit boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Speech Scanbe Socket.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;It&#039;s hard to believe that these sockets ever worked.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Scanbe Removal.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A Scanbe socket being removed from circuit board by gently prying it up.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ScanbeSocket.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Closeup of the infamous &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; brand socket. &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; is molded into the top of the socket face.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ScanBeSocketPins.jpg ‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Closeup of &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; socket pins. Surface contact area was small from the factory.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSMolexSocket.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Another bad socket type usually found in system 7 pcbs. This one was made by Molex.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Voltages==&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board needs two voltages to boot: +12v which only the MPU uses for the reset circuit, and +5v (logic power) for the MPU and Driverboard IC chips.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game goes dead, but the sound board continues to work then there may be a fault with the PSU, power connections to the MPU, blanking or the reset circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for sounds by pressing the sound board diagnostic test.  The game will need to bed switched off &amp;amp; back on to cancel the looping sound test.  The sound board has its own PSU.  It takes 18v AC directly from the transformer and makes +12v (reset) +5v ( logic) and also -12v (Speech and  mixers). It&#039;s probably OK to assume the +5v and +12v going to the MPU (and Driver Board) are OK from the PSU if the sound board boots and runs.  It&#039;s like a mini MPU, with the same CPU and one PIA chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main PSU board only needs to make the first two, +12v and +5v (no -12v) for the MPU and Driver board.  But it also generates DC power for the flippers and the solenoids (+28v DC or so).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Power Supply Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WMSSystem3-6PowerSupply.jpg ‎|400px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Power Supply Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
The power supply board (PSB) combines serval power circuits on the same board. They don&#039;t interact, and are:  &lt;br /&gt;
* +18V for Lamps&lt;br /&gt;
* +28V Solenoids (and Flippers)&lt;br /&gt;
* Regulated +5V for digital logic and an unregulated +12v for CPU reset &lt;br /&gt;
* +/- 100VDC HV supply for the Displays.&lt;br /&gt;
* General Illumination (GI). Note: starting with System 7 games, the GI circuit added a relay, making GI power switchable under game software control.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Input AC power is supplied to the PSU board directly from the transformer for the +5V/+12V and the display voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
However, in the case of the Lamp and Solenoid voltages AC is &#039;full wave&#039; rectified (to DC) &#039;&#039;before reaching the PSU board&#039;&#039;. This is done using two Bridge Rectifiers BR1 for Lamps (to the Right of the backbox) and BR2 for Solenoids and Flippers (to the Left of the backbox).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
  &lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp Voltage Supplies===&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WMSLampPowerCapacitor.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A typical 18,000uf/25V lamp power filter capacitor. These caps almost never require replacement]]&lt;br /&gt;
* The +18VDC Lamp voltage is filtered by a very large &#039;blue can&#039; capacitor between the BR and the PSU board.  &lt;br /&gt;
** Because the MPU Controlled Lamps (for the inserts) are strobed by the Lamp Matrix, the resultant voltage to the bulbs is &amp;quot;averaged down&amp;quot; to about 6v DC.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Lamps are rated at 6.3v and 250mA for #44 Bulbs (so 1/4 Amp) or 150mA for #47 Bulbs (about 1/7 of an Amp).  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Because they use less power, #47 bulbs will generate less heat.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Replace any shiny &#039;silvered&#039; bulbs and any that say 0.3A as they burn way too hot and will ruin inserts and cause paint to flake on your backglass!&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; This has nothing to do with the G.I. (General Illumination circuit) which is fused on a fuse card and reaches to G.I. bulbs as about 6.3v AC.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** As they (almost) always stay lit, the G.I. bulbs tend to last longer running on an AC voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The AC is &#039;Tee-d&#039; off to the cabinet, playfield and the insert board (for the backglass lighting).&lt;br /&gt;
*** Wire colors for G.I. (and must be measured as AC) are Yellow and Yellow/White.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid Power===&lt;br /&gt;
The solenoid power circuit is shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7PowerSupplySolenoidCircuit.jpg|1000px|thumb|left|A snippet of the 28VDC solenoid power circuit.]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
C13 (100uf) and C14 (.1uf) remove residual noise from the DC power.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
VR1, a Metal Oxide Varistor acts as a surge suppresser. It is designed to blow (shorted) which will cause a fuse to blow.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
F2, a 2 1/2ASB fuse protects the solenoid power circuit should a solenoid become &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot; for an extended period of time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Other than these additional components, the circuit is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Power===&lt;br /&gt;
Flipper power is routed through the power supply for the sole purpose of protecting the circuit with either a 10 (2 flippers) or 15 (3 or 4 flippers) amp slo-blo fuse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Flipper power is then routed to connector 3J3 pins 4 and 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connectors on the PSU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
* All AC voltages come into the PSU board in the large 12-way connector 3J1, while the black ground wires are on the 6-way 3J2.  &lt;br /&gt;
**The fused &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;AC and DC&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; voltages exit on the larger of the &#039;D&#039; shaped connectors, while the black Lamp and solenoid ground wires exit on the smaller of the &#039;D&#039; connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===5V Logic and +12V Unregulated Supplies===&lt;br /&gt;
*In the case of the +12V (and +5V a logic power), the AC comes into the PSU board at 3J1-10 11&amp;amp;12 directly from the transformer windings.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can measure about 10v AC in at the bottom of the diodes D7 and D8 with respect to the board&#039;s ground.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The total AC input is 18.6v, so each diode &#039;sees&#039; 9.3v because the transformer winding &#039;center tap&#039; at 3J1-12 is grounded.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** D7 connects to 3J1-10, and D8 to 3J1-11 and you would trace connections from there back to the transformer.&lt;br /&gt;
*** If you measure AC across the bottom of these two diodes you should see the full 18.6v AC.&lt;br /&gt;
*** Do not worry if this AC value is higher without a load, it can (and will) vary with changes in line voltages.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Values over 20v AC are considered normal without a load.  &#039;&#039;It&#039;s a &#039;schoolboy error&#039; to chase the voltages of unregulated supplies trying to get them to be exact.&#039;&#039;  This includes the AC input and +12v DC unregulated supply.&lt;br /&gt;
** The two large diodes at D7/D8 rectify the voltage to around +12v DC, again this is unregulated.&lt;br /&gt;
*** It is filtered by a large capacitor (12,000 uF or higher) to smooth out the AC ripple.&lt;br /&gt;
*** It is fused at 4A Slo-Blow, before exiting at 3J6-6 as the +12v DC for the reset circuit on the MPU Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* To generate the regulated +5v logic supply&lt;br /&gt;
** The +12v input is filtered more by capacitor C16 and then passed through the 5V regulator (labeled X3) which is an LM323K or 75H05. Note that an ezSBC 5V regulator is a &amp;quot;drop in&amp;quot; replacement for the OEM regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
** This exits at 3J5-6 as exactly +5v for the Master Display Board ICs and at 3J6-7 to 3J6-10 for the other +5v supplies (MPU and Driver Boards).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Please note that the Sound Board generates its own +12v and regulated +5v supplies for both Sound and Speech Boards.  This is discussed in the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Sound_.2F_Speech_Board_Issues | Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board Repair]] Section.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===General Illumination Connection Design Flaws===&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with System 7 games, the general illumination passed through the power supply.  This was done to turn the general illumination off (for effect) via a newly added relay on the power supply board.  Unfortunately, Williams did not spec connections which could properly handle the current used for the general illumination.  The end result was connections, whether it be housings or header pins, which became hot and / or burnt.  As the connections tarnish, resistance increases, and the connections become hotter. The cycle continues until an inline fuse blows, or in most cases, discontinuity in the circuit occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only option is to purchase the proper Molex housing and pins and replace both the male and female connections.  Replacing one side but not the other is futile.  The issue will reoccur at a much faster rate than replacing both sides. Another preventative measure is to reduce the amount of current draw by replacing the lamps with LEDs.  LEDs draw less current than 44, 47, and 555 bulbs, and the GI connections become less of an issue in the future when LEDs are installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU===&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a document for troubleshooting and repair of the Williams System 3-6 [[Media:PSU-Display-PWR.pdf|PSU Board Display Power]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An attempt was made to create step by step tests so that reading a schematic is not required.  Includes replacement parts for the HV section repairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the 1/4A (0.25A) fuse at F1 always blows on power up, you may have a shorted UDN IC chip on the Master Display Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
See this section on [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Master_Display_Drivers_for_System_3_to_6 |Sys 3-6 Master Display Drivers]] for testing all the UDN chips on the display board.  You can use these tests for both UDN7180 and UDN6118 (or UDN6184) IC&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Try removing the master display power connectors.  If that stops the F1 fuse from blowing, suspect the Master Display Driver needs repairs before you rebuild the HV section of the PSU.  Test the HV outputs of the PSU without any displays connected and see if the proper voltages are being generated from the PSU without a load.  You need +5v logic, +100v and -100v supplies to run the Master Display board correctly.  This will let you figure out if you need to rebuild the Master Display, the HV section on the PSU Board or both.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;From experience, if components on the PSU Board HV section are stressed, it is best to go ahead and rebuild the entire HV section replacing all components with new parts from a $10 kit.  It will save you time!&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===PSU Parts Suppliers===&lt;br /&gt;
Check with:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.bobramstad.com/pinball/sys6ps.html Bob&#039;s PSU parts list] shows the Mouser part numbers which is useful if you live in the USA, or just want to order a few items for your PSU repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also check with your favorite electronics supplier.  Please be aware that NTE replacement parts may have wide tolerances so they will be compatible with a greater number of original parts. So get the correct replacement parts wherever possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===PSU Diagrams and Resources===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Please refer to these files while using this section to diagnose and repair your PSU Board:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:11-powerwiring-sys4-6.pdf|Williams System 3-6 Power Wiring Diagram]] showing the wiring from your AC mains plug right through to the connection to the PSU board, Sound Board and the G.I.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:07-powerlogic-sys3-6.pdf|Williams 3-6 PSU Logic Diagram]].  A PSU Board Schematic for System 3-6 games, containing test points with approximate voltages and help with fault finding your game&#039;s power.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Troubleshooting and repair of the Williams System 3-6 [[Media:PSU-Display-PWR.pdf|PSU Board HV Display Section]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* External link to a PDF of [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Downloads/W3-11_HV_Kit.pdf WMS HV parts and instructions] from Ed at GPE, a great place to get your HV repair kits. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources to visit&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Except for the possible use of different transistors for Q1 and Q3 the later System 9-11 HV section is very similar in design.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_9_-_11#Display_problems |Sys 9-11 Master Display Driver Problems]], for more detail before starting your repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Missing PSU Upgrade Sections to add&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Testing the AC in and DC out for all sections, including the Solenoid and Lamp BRs.  Simple to do, but should it be spelled out? &lt;br /&gt;
* How to fit the replacement transistors with the &#039;twisted legs&#039; as the SDS-201 (replace with MJE15030, must cross legs) and SDS-202 (replace with MJE15031, must cross legs) are obsolete. Although a diagram is on the GPE PDF for Ed&#039;s HV kit, some shrink wrap tubing could be added to the &#039;lowest leg&#039; to reduce failures.&lt;br /&gt;
* How to fit the 2 x 1n4763a 91v Zener diodes, at locations Z2 &amp;amp; Z4 to reduce the Display output to about+/-90v under load and extend display life.&lt;br /&gt;
* Repin of Headers at 3J1 and the used pins at 3J2, theory for using crimped TriFurcon connectors and new housings which replace the existing female IDC connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
...etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==The MPU Reset Circuit==&lt;br /&gt;
The +12v for reset goes into a circuit that waits (for about a 1 sec. delay) for the +5v to stabilize before it lets the CPU boot. If the +12v (or output from the reset circuit) drops, the reset halts the CPU, PIA(s) and the 5101 CMOS RAM chips before the +5v to them dies. A shutdown of the CPU will also pull blanking low and halt solenoids, lamps and displays to protect them from further damage (coils firing, memory glitching) during the power down. So spikes or drops to the +12v line may halt the CPU at the wrong time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An MPU unable to boot may mean that its reset circuit is faulty.  A +12v line comes in from the PSU board to the MPU on pin 9 of 1J2. That&#039;s the top pin on the top left (and only connector on the left) of the MPU board.  +12v can also be measured at TP1 on a System 6, 6a, or 7 MPU.  Don’t get hung  up on it being exactly +12v, as it&#039;s not regulated.  However, it can’t drop too much lower than +11.5v, or the reset circuit &#039;&#039;&#039;may&#039;&#039;&#039; have a problem generating enough voltage to keep reset “up” to the CPU.  But +11.5v to +14v is not unusual and will still work.  A fluctuating reset can cause the game to reboot during a game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The state of the reset (high or low) can be observed at pin 40 of the 6808 or 6802 CPU chip.  Likewise, the reset can be observed at TP8 on System 6, 6a, and 7 MPU boards.  TP8 is located just to the right of IC19 (5101 memory) on a System 6 or 6a board, and the far right test point on the bottom of the MPU just above the 40-way connector on a System 7 MPU board.  It will be marked as TP8 on the PCB mask. For System 3, 4, 4a MPU boards, the reset will have to be measured at pin 40 of the 6800 CPU board.  When booting the game and watching reset, it stays low for a heartbeat after power on and then rises to +5v.  +4.75v or around that is fine.  Don&#039;t get hung up too much on the voltages being exact for the reset circuit either.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the +12v appears OK when measured, and the sound board is always booting and working, it&#039;s safe to assume that +12v at the PSU is stable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A good trick to &#039;inject&#039; a reset, is to try connecting +5v for a second or two to the reset test point at TP8 or the leg of the CPU chip (pin 40).  If the CPU boots (reset must be a logic high now on pin 40 of IC1), then the reset section will need to be rebuilt..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So that involves running a jumper lead from TP8 and &#039;&#039;&#039;briefly&#039;&#039;&#039; touching TP9 (+5v). TP9 is located just to the bottom right of the battery holder on a System 6 or 6a MPU board, while it is at the top right the battery holder on a System 7 board. The battery holder should have been removed, so the test point is located in the vicinity of where the original holder &#039;&#039;&#039;used to be&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Repairing the Reset Circuit &#039;Divide and Conquer&#039;===&lt;br /&gt;
Assuming that the game boots and works if the CPU reset pin is held high, how can it be determined what is wrong?  One solution is the shotgun method: just start changing transistors and components until it is fixed. However, this wastes time and parts. A better way is to narrow down the fault location using the &#039;injection&#039; trick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reset circuit is easily seen as two halves. For a System 7 MPU board, +5v can be applied directly to the top of resistor R12.  If the board boots and stays stable, then that indicates the problem is on the &#039;right hand&#039; side of the circuit. (On System 6, the same thing can be done, but using R32.  This method helps narrow down the faulty components by a half.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Assuming that the +12v getting to MPU board is good, if the above injection of 5v doesn&#039;t work, measure where the voltage disappears on the left hand side of the reset circuit.  Then replace parts on that side, checking for a good reset when the board boots each time. Remember that for System 6 and 7, there are just 12 active components that make up the reset circuit, and 8 of those are transistors.  Those are usually the source of the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step One===&lt;br /&gt;
The Right Hand Side.&lt;br /&gt;
Start by replacing transistors Q6 – Q9 (all 2n4401 NPN) get 10 or more of them, they’re cheap to buy and they are commonly used. They are used as pre-drivers for the solenoid power transistors on the driver boards for System 3-7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Test the board for the previous booting problem.  If they are still there, replace the two zener diodes:  ZR1 is a 6.8v Zener (1n5996) and ZR2 is a 3.9v Zener (1n5990) - you can&#039;t replace these components with anything else to my knowledge.  These are critical values.  And put the orientation of the band of the diode the same way as the ones that are removed. Taking a photo of how the circuit in the top left of the board looked before making any changes is a good idea.  Or, only replace components one at a time.  A test boot could be done on the bench each time something is replaced, but that may slow things down. On the other hand, this may result in avoiding replacing more components than necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It should be booting now, if not attack the other half.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step Two===&lt;br /&gt;
The Left Hand Side.&lt;br /&gt;
Start by replacing transistor Q2.  Q2 is a 2n4403 PNP transistor, cheap as well but you won’t need as many for pinball repairs.  then replace Q3-Q5 with the 2n4401 &#039;s like before.  I would replace D19 (a 1n4148 fast switching diode) you could test it with the diode setting of your DMM, but I don&#039;t trust testing diodes in circuit, and if I’m soldering in that section, I just cut it out and replace it. Cost will be pennies, and most pinball people should have new ones on hand. Again, be sure and notice the direction of the band on the old diode, and put the new one back the same way.  Same thing goes for the orientation of the flat side of the transistors.  Don’t get them wrong when replacing.  The last component to replace would be the capacitor at C27 (10 uF @10v is the original part –look on the side of the cap).  Replace it with a tantalum 10 uF @ 16v, if you can find it.  You can go up in voltage even to 20v or more, but don’t change the value of the capacitance.  Note that some caps have markings showing a (-) side, usually running down the side of the capacitor.  If it shows a polarity, the (-) side of C27 points down on the PCB, towards the 40-way interconnect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step Three, Hopefully Reset is Back Up===&lt;br /&gt;
That’s it.  Usually fixed at step one, and down to one (or more) of those transistors.  I have seen a zener or the 1n4148 diode at D19 be the problem before.  But for me, the cap C27 has always been good.  If all else fails, test the capacitor for a dead short with the power off and replace it with a 10uF electrolytic if it is shorted to ground or you aren&#039;t sure it&#039;s working.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit (System 6 and 6a)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Reset Stock.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Williams System 6 MPU board stock reset circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 MPU Reset Gen.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 6a MPU board reset circuit with an MCP130-460GI/TO reset generator installed. Note that ZR1 has not yet been removed in this image]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on System 6 and 6a MPU boards.  A reset generator can be installed.  To do so, some components will need to be removed and two jumpers installed.  The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following transistors - Q4 and Q6&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R43, R38, R39, R41, and R42&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove zener diode ZR1.  This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP130-460GI/TO where Q4 was (green highlighted area in image).  Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q4 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q4).  In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the top pad and bottom pad of where R39 was (yellow highlighted area in pic).  Essentially, replace R39 with a zero ohm jumper. &lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the top pad of R42 and the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; collector pad (top pad) where Q6 was installed (orange highlighted area in pic).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System6ResetMod.png|left|thumb|300px|Williams System 6 MPU board stock reset circuit, annotated]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired.  Please consult the System 6 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6_Reset_Gen-Pullup.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 6A MPU board reset circuit with an MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator installed with a pull-up resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Alternately, an MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be used, except a 4.7K 1/4 watt pull-up resistor will have to be added to the reset signal line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following transistors - Q4 and Q6&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R43, R38, R39, R41, and R42&lt;br /&gt;
#Optionally, remove zener diode ZR1.  This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO where Q4 was.  Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q4 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q4).  In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the bottom pad of where R38 and R39 formerly were. &lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the top pad of R42 and the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; collector pad (top pad) where Q6 was installed (orange highlighted area in pic).&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a 47k 1/4w resistor between the top pad of where R38 was and the bottom pad of where R41 was.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit (System 7)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Reset Components Remove.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Components to remove from a Williams System 7 MPU board reset circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Reset New Components.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 7 MPU board reset circuit with a reset generator installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like the System 6 and 6a MPU boards, a reset generator can be installed on a System 7 board. Some components will need to be removed, a single jumper installed, along with a 4.7k ohm resistor installed.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove Q2 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R27, R24, R31, R25, R29, and R30 (resistor located to the right of Q2)&lt;br /&gt;
#Optionally, remove zener diode ZR1. This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO where Q2 was (this is the same reset generator as used on Data East MPUs). Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q2 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q2). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the bottom pads where R27 and R24 formerly were.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a 4.7K ohm 1/4 watt resistor in place of R25.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7ResetSection.jpg ‎|left|thumb|300px|All components of the reset section have been scraped except those required to use the MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator (marked with gold Sharpie). In this picture, the 74125 stuffed at the factory has been removed as it&#039;s original function was to read the DIP switches. System 7 games do not read the DIP switches.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU will no longer need the +12VDC to successfully boot. The remaining components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired as pictured at left. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; if using the MCP130 variety of reset generators, the 4.7K ohm resistor does not need to be installed as they incorporate the resistor internally.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Reset Circuit Summary===&lt;br /&gt;
Connectors were mentioned above for completeness.  While I agree a good 40-way connector is essential for correct operation of this era of games, changing the  Bridge Rectifiers in the backbox or rebuilding connectors probably won&#039;t help fix the reset circuit .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That because the &#039;&#039;&#039;BR&#039;s are only for the Lamps and Solenoids&#039;&#039;&#039; and won&#039;t fix a problem with the MPU power (or reset) as that is sourced directly from the PSU.  The +5v logic power comes from a regulator on the PSU board, and the +5v for the reset pins of the MPU ICs is created on the MPU from the +12v unregulated supply. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are looking here because game resets (reboots to attract mode or locks up) when flipping the flippers, it makes sense to check and rebuild the solenoid power circuit as well.  That is the flipper power on games prior to System 7 when 50v flippers and a Flipper Power Board was introduced.  You should also read the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC_5VDC_Power_Derivation_Path WPC section], while the games only similar- the approach for resets caused by power fluctuations is sound.  It takes you from the &#039;AC mains&#039; wall plug right through to the power needed on the boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Topics such as electrolytic capacitors aging and drying out, testing the Bridge Rectifiers and checking and tweaking the LM323K 5V regulator on the Power Baord will all be the same or very similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==The Blanking Circuit==&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking circuit is used by the MPU to prevent damage to the game when the MPU can not determine that the game is in a valid state. A low blanking signal means that the MPU isn&#039;t operating properly and the blanking circuitry is &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; (turning off) the lamps and displays. A high blanking signal means that the MPU is operating normally, allowing lamps and displays to function normally. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the driver board, the blanking signal is logically ANDed, by 7408s, with the enable signal for all 8 of the lamp strobes and the first 16 solenoids.  The 6 special solenoid enable signals are not ANDed with the blanking signal.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the MPU, the blanking signal for the displays leaves the board via connector IJ3 pin 4 (top left connector on board).  For the driver board blanking signal, it leaves the MPU board at pin 37 of the 40-pin interconnect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A special note: the blanking signal will only go high when the MPU and driver board are connected.  It will not go high if testing with a stand alone MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7BlankingLED.jpg|thumb|400px|left|A &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; LED added to a Williams System 3-7 Driver Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Adding an LED as shown in the image will let you easily monitor the Blanking state while troubleshooting. Note that the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED faces away from the 40-way connector and is on the same side as the shorter lead. The “current limiting” 150 ohm resistor is soldered to the ground trace.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the System 6/6A MPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6MPUBlanking.jpg | thumb | right| 400px| A blanking signal indication can be added to a System 6 MPU quite easily.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the TP4 test stud. This is the blanking stud.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the &amp;quot;non flat side&amp;quot; of the LED into the open hole.&lt;br /&gt;
#The &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED is oriented up, or toward the top of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder a 150 ohm (or so) resistor between the flat side lead and ground trace that has a zero ohm resistor soldered to it.&lt;br /&gt;
#All done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the System 7 MPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
A blanking signal indication can be added to a System 7 MPU can be done in at least two very clean ways.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When the LED is lit, the blanking signal is high, indicating a properly functioning MPU.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Option 1 ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Implementing this modification assumes that the battery holder trace is no longer in use!&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Blanking test point stud (numbered &amp;quot;4&amp;quot;). Since we are adding a blanking indication LED, the stud is no longer required.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install an LED, with the flat side pointing toward the former location of the battery holder and the other leg through the hole created by removal of the blanking TP stud.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the LED lead through the former battery holder hole and solder.&lt;br /&gt;
#Form a 150 ohm 1/4W resistor between the appropriate battery holder hole and the fat ground trace along the perimeter of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Scrape the solder mask from the board, enabling the resistor to be soldered to the ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder both ends of the resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a label to indicate the meaning of the LED; lit means blanking is on and the MPU is working properly; unlit means blanking is off and there is a problem with the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=480px heights=480px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Option 1: Adding a Blanking Signal Indication to a System 7 MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7BlankingLEDFront.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;An LED replaced the Blanking test point stud, flat side pointing toward the battery holder hole.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7BlankingLEDBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;The back of the System 7 MPU, showing connections of the LED, repurposed battery holder trace, and 150 ohm resistor connection.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Option 2 ====&lt;br /&gt;
This method does not require the battery holder to be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Clean the original solder from the lower of the 4 &amp;quot;paired&amp;quot; solder pads and the &amp;quot;via&amp;quot; pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install an LED, with the flat side oriented as indicated by the silkscreen&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, connect a 150 ohm 1/4W resistor to the LED lead on the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the other end of the resistor to the large ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the &amp;quot;non flat side&amp;quot; lead of the LED so that it can pass through the via hole and solder securely. This connects the LED to the blanking signal.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, sever the trace shown in the image below that runs NorthEast from the LED (trace severed at gold dot using a Dremel tool and ball cutter bit).&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a label to indicate the meaning of the LED; lit means blanking is on and the MPU is working properly; unlit means blanking is off and there is a problem with the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=480px heights=480px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Option 2: Adding a Blanking Signal Indication to a System 7 MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S7BlankingFront.jpeg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;An LED added to available solder pads, flat side pointing in the same direction as indicated on the silkscreen.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S7BlankingBack.jpeg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;The back of the System 7 MPU, showing connections between the LED, a 150 ohm resistor connected to ground, and the &amp;quot;non-flat-side&amp;quot; lead of the LED connected to the blanking signal.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Blanking Circuit Stuck Low===&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking circuitry that appears on Williams 3-7 MPU boards remained the same across all generations of Williams MPUs, all the way through the System 11 board set. Data East copied the same blanking circuitry too!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will send data to the display 6821 PIA at IC18 at regular intervals. &lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 at IC18 to periodically pulse.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at IC7, in at pin 5, out at pin 6.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C32 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q5 and to pin 8 of the 556 timer at IC23.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 556 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at IC18, the output of the 556 timer at pin 9 (and 13) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Upon a successful boot of the MPU board, the blanking will go from a low signal to a high signal, and remain high (no pulsing) as long as there are no issues. If the blanking signal does not go high, the system has not and will not boot.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the most common issues for a blanking signal to remain low is discontinuity between the MPU board and the driver board.  The blanking signal passes via the 40-pin interconnect at pin 37 (4th pin in from the left side).  Poor connections due to fatigue or seeping battery damage can cause a break in this connection.  It is best to replace both the male and female sides of the 40-pin interconnect to ensure that all is well.  Remember, the blanking will not go high, if the MPU is not connected to the driver board.  A flaky connection with discontinuity between boards is the same as if they&#039;re not connected.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 MPU Ground IC5.JPG|left|thumb|300px|A System 6 MPU board with the upper right battery holder through-hole circled, along with the ground trace and the 74LS02 labeled.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A special note about System 6 &amp;amp; 6A MPU boards.  The upper right through-hole for the battery holder passes the ground from the solder side of the board to the IC5 (74LS02) chip.  This through-hole can become compromised from battery corrosion or the careless removal of the battery holder.  If there is a break between the two sides of the board, ground will not be connected to IC5, and the chip will not function.  If this occurs, the blanking signal will never go high, and the board will not boot.  Just check for continuity between pin7 of IC24, the top right leg of chip shown and TP10, the bottom post on the right of picture. You may have to add a ‘stitch wire’ soldered to the top &amp;amp; bottom of the board going through the hole indicated.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys7_Blanking.JPG|left|thumb|300px|System 7 MPU board blanking signal trace]]&lt;br /&gt;
A special note about System 7 MPU boards.  The trace for the blanking signal is very fragile.  If the batteries have leaked on the board, or leached under the 40-pin header pins, make certain that the trace which carries the blanking signal has not been broken.  The break most commonly occurs at the junction of the trace and the component side of the through-hole pad for the header pin on the MPU board.  A continuity test can be performed to determine if the trace has been compromised.  Place one lead of the ohmmeter on TP4 and the other on pin 37 of the 40-pin header.  Also, keep the lead on TP4, and place the other on the 12th pad up on the far right of the board.  The header pin connector will have to be removed to inspect this junction, should there be a break.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Blanking Circuit Strobing===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a peculiar instance where the blanking circuit will be strobing.  The end result is erratic behavior from the displays and lamps (both the lamps and displays will be very dim if at all visible during attract mode).  The prime source of this issue is due to the C31 capacitor (1.0uF 25v axial tantalum) falling out of spec.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Driver Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The &amp;quot;Once Dreaded&amp;quot; 40-pin Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board mates with the MPU board using 40 x 0.156&amp;quot; &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;extra long&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; header pins on the MPU and female &#039;bottom entry&#039; Molex sockets on the driver board. Common belief is that these connectors are good for about 25 reliable connects and removals. While there may be disagreement with this number, the fact remains that the connector is good for a limited number of uses before the connection degrades. At that time, the connector must be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connectors between System 3-7 MPU and driver boards were/are a continual source of problems for this era of Williams machines. However, the issue was eliminated with the release of System 8, (and the more common System 9 platform), when the MPU board and driver board were merged together into a single board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms drvr interconnect.JPG|left|thumb|300px|The 40 pin female connector on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
Next, replace all the female connectors on the driver board.  Even if the driver board side pins look good, replace them.  Simple cleaning of the pins with a contact cleaner or burnishing them are not viable solutions. The bottom feed pins loose tensile strength over time, which degrades the connection between the MPU and driver board as they age. The picture at left illustrates the 40 pin female bottom feed connectors on the driver board. It should be noted that the connector in the picture is an extreme example of poor condition connections. Missing and alkaline damaged pins, connectors from position 17-40 on the left, are not the norm. Connections from position 1-16 on the far right are more commonly seen.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect Back.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Installing a new 40 pin female connector on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect Front Done.JPG|right|thumb|300px|A new 40 pin female connector installed on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
If using four 10 pin female connectors, (the originals on the driver board were five 8 pin), here&#039;s a little trick to keep them lined up nicely when soldering them.  Take the old 8 pin male header pin connectors, which were installed on the MPU board.  Install three of the 8 pin headers on the back side of the driver board and into the new female connectors (see picture to the left).  If any of the older header pin sections have battery corrosion on them, do not use use them for this.  Allow enough space between the connectors so some of the female connector leads can be soldered.  Solder all of the exposed leads on the female connector.  Once they are soldered in place, remove the male headers, and solder the remaining leads on the female connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Male40PinHeaders.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Fresh male headers installed on this System 6 MPU. Nice. Note the new headers are 10 pins long while the original headers were 8 pins long.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts for the MPU are:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Square .156&amp;quot; header pins. These can be found at Great Plains Electronics [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2420-10-2260 here]. Alternatively, Molex brand longer pins, part number 26-48-1080, can be used. Both of these options meet the length requirement for the pins to be at least 0.629&amp;quot; or 16mm length.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts for the Driver board are:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*10-way 0.156&amp;quot; Bottom Entry Female Molex Part Number: 09-52-3102 (4 needed per board). The original part, 5A-9066 8-way .156&amp;quot; Female Molex Part Number: 09-52-3082 (5 needed per board). Alternates are Molex 09-62-6104 and 09-52-3102 which are hard to obtain.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check with: &lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-82.asp Ed at GPE] or your favorite supplier for these.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:UsingFemaleHeadersToAlignMaleHeaders.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Female housings being used to align the male headers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A trick similar to the method aligning the female housings can be used to align the male headers. Use the old (or new one housings) to align the male headers as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no substitute for doing this correctly, other than buying reproduction boards. A solution is a board made by Rottendog Amusements, where the MPU and driver board are [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 combined into one board].  Cost is anywhere from $350 - $400.  Another option is purchasing both the [http://www.pinballpcb.com/System3-7MainBoard.html MPU] and [http://www.pinballpcb.com/System3-7DriverBoard.html driver board] from Kohout Enterprises for $425.  When both boards are purchased, they can be tied together via an auxiliary ribbon cable.  Of course they can be connected via the 40-pin interconnect too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If doing it yourself, repairs on the MPU and driver board connectors can cost up to $30 or less in parts (header pins, sockets and solder), along with several hours to replace the connectors and pins correctly.  This of course depends on your level of soldering skills and the value you put on your time. It&#039;s a fairly long job but it&#039;s likely that it only needs to be done once.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Display Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
===Every-Other Digit Shown On All Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem3-6EveryOtherDigitOut.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|Half of the digits, or every-other digit, are missing on all displays. Unintuitively, the root cause of this failure is the lamp matrix 6821 PIA at IC10 on the driver board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This failure seems to occur quite frequently and perplexes most techs. While the 6821 in the MPU display interface circuitry would seem to be the logical culprit, it is the lamp matrix PIA on the driver board that is the actual villain. The issue shown at left was remedied by replacing PIA III (also known as IC10), the lamp matrix drive PIA, which is the middle PIA on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating this failure, and the correction, can be found [https://youtu.be/ckwoW_xuQSM &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Every-Other Digit Dim On All Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EveryOtherDigitDim.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|Half of the digits, or every-other digit, are dimly displayed. This behavior was caused by a failed 4020 IC25.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This rare failure is caused by the 4020 at IC25 (on a System 7 MPU) failing such that either pin 12, 13, or 14 is &amp;quot;dead&amp;quot;. In this case, display interrupts occur too rapidly, and the 6800/6802 can&#039;t service those interrupts quickly enough to properly render display data.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating this failure, and the correction, can be found [https://youtu.be/_qOhzzwpbu0 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Repairing the Master Display Driver===&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the detail here is for System 3 - 6a with 6-digit displays only.  So it does not include Alien Poker or Algar, which both used the System 7 type display setup.  System 7-9 used a smaller Master Display Board located on the back of the lamp board, and it had IDC type ribbon cables that ran to the 4 player 7-digit displays.  They added a 4-digit Credit/Match display which also used a ribbon cable. The harness connecting the backbox (PSU and MPU) signals to the Master board used the same &#039;edge-connector&#039; as System 3-6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===First, a High Voltage &#039;&#039;&#039;***Warning***&#039;&#039;&#039;===&lt;br /&gt;
With the game on you are dealing with +100 and -100v HV DC (High Voltage) going to the displays. That&#039;s a potential 200v difference and you only need to feel that once to know it.  Wear tennis shoes (trainers or any rubber soled shoe) when working on displays with the backbox open.  This is a shock hazard!  If you are not capable or happy with measuring these voltages with a steady hand, then get someone else to help you and be there to &#039;spot&#039; you.   Always a good idea and more fun than working on your own.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another useful tip is to remove Fuse F1 from the PSU (Power Supply Board). This is the HV fuse and is 1/4A Slo-Blow (250mA &#039;T&#039; fuse in Europe).  This will allow the logic (BCD binary decoders and Buffer ICs) to be troubleshooted with a DMM or Logic Probe without the danger of shocks or shorting them out when measuring TTL (logic) voltages. It may also save the logic probe from a crispy fate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Wiring Harness===&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes displays just go blank and it is a fault in the wiring harness from backbox to the Master Display Driver.  If you can swap a working Master Display Driver board from a System 3-6a game with stable displays, then do that as a first step.  This way you quickly determine if the fault is in the backbox &#039;&#039;&#039;OR&#039;&#039;&#039; the Master Display Driver PCB or displays on the front of the light board.  If it&#039;s the towards the backbox then suspect display harness cabing Driver to MPU, or the display PIA or decoding on the MPU. If you don&#039;t have the ability to swap in a spare Master Display board, then turn off the game and test the harness for continuity between the backbox (MPU board) and the cables at the left and right side of the Master using this &#039;&#039;[[media:10-displaywiring-sys-4-6.pdf|Master Display board harness wiring diagram]]&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Segment failures===&lt;br /&gt;
Segment failures on a single display could be that display failing. Same issue if just one display is blank.  Swap that display with another (power off first) and see if the problem moves with that display.  If it moves, it&#039;s that display glass or its board.  If it doesn&#039;t move and stays at the same player location, see below for the possible suspects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Segment failures on multiple displays and probable cause:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Players 1 &amp;amp; 2 Segments and master display Segments are out:&lt;br /&gt;
* BCD inputs are A1 B1 C1 D1 from the MPU board  &lt;br /&gt;
* MC14543 BCD to 7-Seg. Decoder IC5&lt;br /&gt;
* UDN7180 Display Driver IC9&lt;br /&gt;
* Resistors R1-R7&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Players 3 &amp;amp; 4 Segments&lt;br /&gt;
* BCD inputs are A2 B2 C2 D2 from the MPU board  &lt;br /&gt;
* MC14543 BCD to 7-Seg. Decoder IC8&lt;br /&gt;
* UDN7180 Display Driver IC10&lt;br /&gt;
* Resistors R8-R14&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start out by measuring all the resistors on the master display board with the power off.  &lt;br /&gt;
R1-R14 should be around 10K ohms.  Any that are not within about 10% (say a range between 9.6K to 10.4K ohms) need to be replaced.  Also look and see if any look &amp;quot;toasted&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Those resistors get cooked on the Master display boards and usually will then cause single segments to fail on both the player 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4 displays together, as they are linked.  Te resistors need to be replaced with the same value: 10K but at 1/2 Watt.  Some of the modern &#039;metal film&#039; resistors are rated at 0.6W which is perfect and they fit nicely in that location.  Older 0.5W (1/2W) resistors are larger, but are fine.  Mount them slightly off the PCB so they get good airflow all around the resistor body.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do the above steps anyway, no matter what the display problem is although it&#039;s probably not going to be the whole story.&lt;br /&gt;
Replacement resistors are cheap and will prolong the life of your displays.  Reducing the voltage going to the displays when rebuilding the HV section of the PSU is a good step to take and will help as well.  You only need to replace two Zener diodes to achieve this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Digit Failures===&lt;br /&gt;
Strobe inputs for the display digits come in to three 14069 hex inverters on the driver board.  IC1, IC2 and IC3.&lt;br /&gt;
* IC1 is dedicated to the Master Display &#039;Credit/Match&#039;. Strobes are: 15,16,7,8 left to right, for the 4 digits it uses.&lt;br /&gt;
* IC2 and IC3 strobe inputs are more complicated, to strobe distribution between these IC chips is shown in the display diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Strobe (or strobe input) failures are likely to show up in the player display pairings 1&amp;amp;3 or 2&amp;amp;4 because:&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 1-6  are shared for players 1 &amp;amp; 3&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 9-14 are shared for players 2 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===All Displays are Blank===&lt;br /&gt;
This could be that the +100v or the -100v HV are missing from the PSU board.  Both have to be there, so check that the output from the PSU and that the voltages (HV) are good first, and getting to the Master display driver to be relayed to the player displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are also 5 x  3 Mega ohm resistors, at R15-R19,  These are for the cathode &amp;quot;keep alives&amp;quot; and again should be near that value.  If the 3 Meg resistors don&#039;t look cooked and are within spec, check that you can see an &amp;quot;orange glow&amp;quot; in the displays when the lights in the room are dim or off.  If you see a faint glow (some describe it as an &#039;orange neon dot&#039;), then look elsewhere for the fault.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
If you don&#039;t see the display glow, check the wiring to the  connectors carefully looking for a burnt wire at pins 4J7-1 -2 and -6 &lt;br /&gt;
on the master display.  Do this with the power off, as you are dealing with 100v and -100v DC.  If you find a cooked wire, sometimes just cutting the wire back a bit to expose clean metal and then reinserting it firmly in the IDC connector will repair the problem with a bad connection for one of the HV lines.  Remove and reseat all the edge connectors on the master display board and especially examine the ones that go to the backbox.  You can clean the copper contacts on the edge connectors gently with an eraser to shine up the copper if it&#039;s dull or has &amp;quot;dead spots&amp;quot; worn on it.  Check any inline connectors as well. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I also recommend disconnecting all the player displays 1-4 at the  Master display.  Get it working with the just the credit/match and &lt;br /&gt;
then with one other display attached, like player 1.  Then add back the player 2-4 displays one at a time (you need to power off each time you add or swap a display), testing for correct function each time.  You can also swap the player displays as a diagnostic step and carefully observe if the fault(s) stay with the Display in question or move to the new location.  Use the &amp;quot;display test&amp;quot; on the diagnostics for this. After the above is checked, perhaps you do have to suspect the IC chips (or  for the discrete version the transistors).  Depending on whether the Segments or Digits are out, it will point you at a specific IC (or transistor array). Knowing which displays are out helps reduce the fault domain down to one chip.  You need be like a detective, following the clues.  Having a Master Display Assembly drawing and a schematic on hand will help with this process.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s hoping that it isn&#039;t one of the UDN6118A-1 (aka UDN6184-5) IC chips that&#039;s faulty.  Hard to remove from another board in one piece, without a de-soldering station and becoming obsolete.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, check that the display blanking connector is in place. This will be a 4 pin connector with a single wire. If this connection has failed or has been unplugged, the game will boot, go into attract and seem to be working, but the displays will remain blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays only showing even number===&lt;br /&gt;
This is caused by a display signal connector issue.  This shows up in pairs; player one and two or player three and four. Likely to be header pins on MPU board connector J5, J6, J7&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Scrolling Digits on Display===&lt;br /&gt;
The rather unusual issue of &amp;quot;scrolling digits&amp;quot; on the displays is caused by failed/failing filter capacitors on the power supply board. Over about 40 years of operation, these capacitors begin to fail and no longer effectively filter the high voltages. The OEM capacitors were rated at 100uf/150V. These capacitors can be replaced with 220uf/160V axial capacitors to correct this behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A video of this behavior can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxIRdJ7ecBY &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3-6 Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 3-6 Master Display Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
Master Display Driver Boards came in two versions, discrete and IC based.  Williams designed the discrete version when the UDN7180 / UDN6184 Gas Plasma Display Driver ICs became scarce (and they were expensive even then). There are some logic chips that decode the BCD data for the 7 display segments (MC15453 or MC15458) and to buffer and invert the display strobe lines for the digits (MC14069).  These buffers and decoders are common to both the D8000 and D8168 versions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Discrete version Display Driver=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display discrete.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Discrete Components)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D8168 board uses  MPSA92 (PNP in a TO-92 package) and MPSA42 (NPN also TO-92) transistors to drive the Master (Credit/ Match) and player scoring displays.  These gas plasma display driver transistors are available today and still very cheap to buy.  Unfortunately, this style of board is less common to find in the wild, but actually easier to maintain.  At least no one can try to charge you $20+ for an obsolete driver IC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====IC version Display Driver=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D8000 IC version board is composed of ICs that implement the transistor arrays.  Usual factory chips are the UDN-7180 for the Segment Driver and the UDN6118a-1 for the Digit Driver.  You may find the Digit Driver IC is a UDN6184-5 as well from Williams.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The UDN-7180 IC chips are still fairly easy to find. Cost should be reasonable, if you shop / ask around. (Sprague) or uPA6118c may still be available for $3-5 but have a lower breakdown voltage (~85v DC) than original part.  The displays run at +/-100v DC as standard and need the higher rated original part which is the the UDN6118A-1 (note we have -1 at the end).  The UDN6118a-1 is rare and also becoming very expensive, as much as $20+ for an IC chip.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you do find the &#039;&#039;&#039;lower rated UDN6118a (or uPA6118c)&#039;&#039;&#039;, then you will need to replace two zener diodes on the PSU to lower the display voltage down from 100v.  It&#039;s a good idea anyway on a working System 3-7 game.  Not overdriving display glass and less stress on the expensive display driver chips will lengthen the life of your game. Arcades sometimes had bright lights or windows, while in your home you won&#039;t notice any difference running at a lower voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I usually drop the voltage down leaving the Power Supply to about +/- 90v with 2 x 1n4763a 91v zeners, at locations Z2  &amp;amp; Z4.  This seems to work well, but you are still probably driving near the limits of the replacement UDN6118a.  Unlike the Bally games of the same era, there is no fine adjustment on the voltage output of the HV section of the PSU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the Power Supply repair section for more information about parts to use and other upgrades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remember to compare the costs and trouble of repairs with buying a replacement Master Display Driver board:&lt;br /&gt;
* If all that is wrong with the Master is that the Credit/Match display is out, but it drives all player displays correctly, in my experience the repair is easier than on the player display parts of the driver board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Carefully placing a new 6-digit glass against the pins of the non-working display will confirm if it is the display glass or an IC chip that has failed.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Be Careful of the HV (High Voltages) when doing this, and only hold it by the display glass as it is a natural insulator!  It takes a steady hand and some practice, but this test will work on other player displays as well.  This usually proves the old display has a digit/segment missing, is &#039;out gassed&#039; or is just prone to flickering.  This isn&#039;t foolproof, it works works provided the existing display doesn&#039;t have a short. If both displays exhibit the fault, cutting the correct &#039;leg&#039; or legs in the middle on the old display may help reveal this, and you can bend it back and solder back together if it&#039;s not shorted.      &lt;br /&gt;
** You replace the Master display glass with a standard 6-digit gas plasma display, you can even use an old (but working) player display.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can also replace the Master display with a player display that has a digit fault and would otherwise be unusable! It&#039;s possible because the &#039;100,000s&#039; and &#039;100s&#039; digits are not used on the Master [x00x00].  So you can take two faulty components (a non-working Master and non-working player score display) and make a working Master Display Driver Board.  Pinball repair nirvana.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you feel the display glass is good, you can look to the ICs which are dedicated to driving the Master (or Credit/Match) Display:&lt;br /&gt;
* Start by testing IC1, a 14069 Hex Buffer/Inverter with your logic probe.  Run the display digits diagnostic test, with the Auto/Manual switch in the Auto/Up position.  The digits on all displays should be counting 0-9.  Test the strobe lines are being inverted.  The strobe lines and associated pins are in the diagram given below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When reading this diagram remember that Player 1&amp;amp;3 Score Displays share Strobes 1-6, while Player 2&amp;amp;4 Score Displays share Strobes 9-14. One strobe for each digit.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Master Display has 4 digits only: Strobes 7,8,15,16. So if the output pin is not the inverse of the input pin or a signal is missing, then replace IC1.  It&#039;s available as a 4049U or MC14049UB. Cost is maybe 50 cents, certainly &amp;lt; $1 even in low numbers.  Useful chips to buy and have around, as the 4049 is also used on the System 3-7 Driver Board for the switch matrix and on other later games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys3-7-Displ-Digit-Driver.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Digit failures will show up in these pairings if they are related to the strobes (so digit drivers):&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 1-6:  shared for players 1 &amp;amp; 3&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 9-14: shared for players 2 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
* The Diagram below is the same for all games, as are the Master Displays which makes them interchangable:&lt;br /&gt;
* The Table / Diagram is listed in the most obvious order: Master, Player 1,2,3,4 displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a clearer Table from the above diagram:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |MASTER DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT DRIVER&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER BUFFER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|(Left) 10,000||IC4  pin 1 / 18 ||align=center|15	||IC1 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000        ||IC4  pin 3 / 16 ||align=center|16	||IC1 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10           ||IC4  pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|7   ||IC1 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|(Right) Units||IC4  pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|8	||IC1 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 1 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 2 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100,000 ||IC11 pin 1 / 18 ||align=center|1 ||IC2 pin  5 / 6||align=right|100,000 ||IC11 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|9  ||IC3 pin  9 / 8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10,000	||IC11 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|2 ||IC2 pin  3 / 4||align=right|10,000  ||IC11 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|10 ||IC3 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000  ||IC11 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|3 ||IC2 pin  1 / 2||align=right|1,000   ||IC12 pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|11 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100	||IC11 pin 4 / 15 || align=center|4 ||IC2 pin  9 / 8||align=right|100     ||IC12 pin 6 / 13 ||align=center|12 ||IC3 pin 13 /12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10	||IC11 pin 5 / 14 || align=center|5 ||IC2 pin 11 /10||align=right|10      ||IC12 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|13 ||IC3 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|Units	||IC11 pin 6 / 13 || align=center|6 ||IC2 pin 13 /12||align=right|Units   ||IC12 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|14 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 3 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 4 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100,000||IC12 pin 1 / 18 || align=center|1 ||IC2 pin  5 / 6||align=right|100,000 ||IC13 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|9 ||IC3 pin  9 / 8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10,000 ||IC12 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|2 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4||align=right|10,000 ||IC13 pin 4 / 15 ||align=center|10 ||IC3 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000 ||IC12 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|3 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2||align=right|1,000 ||IC13 pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|11 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100 ||IC12 pin 4 / 15 || align=center|4 ||IC3 pin  9 / 8||align=right|100 ||IC13 pin 6 / 13 ||align=center|12 ||IC3 pin 13 /12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10	||IC13 pin 1 / 18 || align=center|5 ||IC3 pin 11 /10||align=right|10 ||IC13 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|13 ||IC3 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|Units ||IC13 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|6 ||IC3 pin 13 /12||align=right|Units ||IC13 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|14 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If that doesn&#039;t fix it, next move on to the Segment Drivers:&lt;br /&gt;
*Look at IC4, the UDN6118A, follow the steps to do a DMM test of the UDN chip.  A trick here can be that all the pins are not used (because of the missing digits, so it is possible to make use of the original UDN6118-A-1 (or UDN6184-5) that has a previous fault and one I/O pair is faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This works for the Master Display, so I would keeep a faulty UDN chips (or a faulty board) for spares.  You never know (e.g. there is an &#039;&#039;extra unused pair&#039;&#039; on every UDN7180 type chip pins 1+18 when we get to Segment driver tricks!!! This does not work when you get to for System 7-9 Masters, as all the pins are used.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pairs that &#039;&#039;&#039;are needed&#039;&#039;&#039; for IC4 are: (1,18) (3,16) (5,14) (7,12).  So you can get away without pairs: (2,17) (4,15) (6,13) (8,11) so you can have up to 1/2 the chip faulty, but it needs to be the right positions without using wire jumpers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a way to test the UDN6118&#039;s with the power off and your DMM (multimeter).&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;With the game OFF&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the power in to the Master Display board, connector 4J7. &lt;br /&gt;
**DMM goes on the Diode test setting, usually a symbol like this:  -&amp;gt;|&lt;br /&gt;
**Red lead clipped to ground, I use the ground braid in the backbox, or on the display board connected by a jump lead (alligator clips each end)&lt;br /&gt;
**Touch black lead to the UDNxxxx pins 2 through 8&lt;br /&gt;
**You should get .5 to .7 for each pin&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Then touch Black lead on each UDNxxxx pins 17 through 11. &lt;br /&gt;
**An open reading (no reading) is the correct result.  &lt;br /&gt;
**A shorted display glass can show up during the UDNxxxx 11 through 17 test.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pairs 1,18 and 9,10), the UDN chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board. Take care to preserve this chip, as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace. Now install an IC socket in its place. Repeat the test with no chip installed. If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced. If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Notes on different board revisions:&lt;br /&gt;
Williams also used the DI-0512 (Dionics-512) for the Digit Driver IC. I have owned the discrete transistor version, but the Dionics-512 version is even harder to find, and I&#039;ve not seen one in 7 years of collecting.  That&#039;s not to say they are not out there. &lt;br /&gt;
All the troubleshooting instructions above are intended for the UDN type boards, but the Dionics boards work in a similar way, so consult the schematics.  You will also need to make sense of the warnings below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Warnings:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
These are factory changes, but if you replace or swap chips, you should be aware of the following&lt;br /&gt;
* The Display board must run similar chips, so for example all UDN-6118 / UDN-6184 types for the Digit Drivers OR all DI-0512 Digit Drivers (which are longer, meaning they have more pins). They have different power requirements!  The two Segment Driver ICs need to match, too.  So two MC14548 ICs at IC6 &amp;amp; 7, OR two MC14543 ICs at IC5 &amp;amp; 8. Mix &amp;amp; Match or having all four installed is mental (crazy)!   You should have empty pads on the board for the optional IC chips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* With the DI-0512 at ICs on these boards, the &#039;10K&#039; resistors R1-R14 are all 15K. Adjust the repair instructions below accordingly.&lt;br /&gt;
* If IC4 and IC11-14 are UDN-6118 chips, then a +100v trace is cut connecting pin 2 of connector J7 and ZR1 (1N4740A Zener diode) is added.  &lt;br /&gt;
* With the DI-0512&#039;s this trace is left, and there is no Z1 used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D8000-Cut-Trace.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes a HV arc can occur between two pads on the Master Display board, and if this happens it will blow out the HV section of the PSU (power Supply Unit).  If you have the UD7180 version of the System 3-6 Master Display board, it may be worthwhile taking this &#039;&#039;&#039;easy step&#039;&#039;&#039; to prevent a problem:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an unused track on the front of the board near to the bottom right corner of the Master display glass. The top round pad in this picture is unused on the UDN7180 version but goes to the +100v supply at Pin 2 of 4J7. Click to expand the picture at left for a better view.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It appears that the pad shorted out to the ground track that goes around both of the round pads. Cutting the track to the top round pad as shown in the picture (with the board removed from the game) will cause no problems for the displays on your game. And it could prevent disaster.  A short could damage the HV section of the PSU, even the Master Display board itself. I have seen it happen, so better safe than sorry.  BTW- This track &#039;&#039;&#039;should not be cut&#039;&#039;&#039; if the Dionics Digit Driver ICs are installed.  The writer has owned many games and has never seen a board with the Dionics ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sound / Speech Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
Sounds and speech are one of the most important parts of a pinball game for me.&amp;amp;nbsp; Few things are more depressing for me than the sound of a pinball rolling around the wood with no background noises and without sounds of points being scored.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This section deals with the square sound board Type 2 ( System 6 &amp;amp; 7, with or without the speech &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;). The Williams part number is 1C-2001-146-x, although much of the information applies to the Type 1 boards (System 3 &amp;amp; 4).&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
A description of the sound board Type 2:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The sound board is actually a &amp;quot;mini-MPU&amp;quot; board running a 6808 CPU and a single 6821 PIA. So read the MPU board sections about the replacing sockets and the reset circuit as it will work in a very similar way.&lt;br /&gt;
* It has an external 6810 RAM for the CPU registers / &#039;stack&#039;. This can be replaced by internal RAM in the 6802 CPU if that is used. &lt;br /&gt;
* It has it&#039;s own PSU (Power Supply Unit) and takes ~18v AC voltage directly from the games mains transformer and rectifies it to DC voltages that provide the +5v logic to the ICs and +12v for the CPU reset circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
* It provides -12v DC only used on the speech card for IC2 &amp;amp; IC3 the two 1458 OP Amps. They act as mixers for the analogue sounds and digital speech.&lt;br /&gt;
* A single 2K 2716 Eprom (ROM) which contains program instructions that &#039;boot&#039; the CPU and code to create the sounds. Different ROM versions are containing specific sounds are numbered: Williams&#039; Sound ROM 1, Sound ROM 2, Sound ROM 3...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last item deserves some explanation. The Sound ROM does not store sounds as samples, but as mathematical &#039;strings&#039; which describe parameters such as attack, frequency, decay and echo. So the board functions as a synthesizer, rather than playing a WAV file or compressed sound like an MP3 player today. In fact a 2K sample at 22K Hz sample rate could last about 1/10 of a second.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 4K 2532 Eproms on the Speech Board can hold sampled sound but at very low quality. [[Black Knight]] used 4 Speech ROMs for a total of 16K and could speak about 20 words along with the famous laughter. Earlier games having 3 Speech ROMs Like Gorgar or Firepower could speak only about 11 words using 3 x 2532 ROMs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Why did they provide a different PSU for the Sound card?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
This early Williams game design could be for ground isolation, perhaps to provide a cleaner sound by avoiding interference from the other components which created RFI. Notice that I used &amp;quot;early Williams game design&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;cleaner sound&amp;quot; were just used together in the same sentence. I have also seen Sound Boards where the BR1 was missing and replaced by 4 x diodes, which also works. Two were mounted on the front and two on the back, with the bands on the diodes all pointing in the direction of TP1 (+12v). Start at 1N5401, rated 100v @ 3A.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Understanding this background should help pinpoint the source of problems with Sounds and Speech on games of the early 80&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Type II Sound Board Jumpers===&lt;br /&gt;
The following jumpers are installed for these games.&lt;br /&gt;
*W2,5,7,9,10,15 - Gorgar, Blackout, Firepower, Black Knight, Jungle Lord, Pharaoh (games with a speech card).&lt;br /&gt;
*W1,2,5,7,9,10,15 - Defender, Solar Fire, Barracora, Stargate, Cosmic Gunfight, Varkon, Time Fantasy (games without a speech card).&lt;br /&gt;
*W1,3,5,7,10,14,15 - Hyperball&lt;br /&gt;
*W1,3,4,5,7,10,15 - Joust (Note that the jumpers listed here are different than listed on the schematic diagram. However, these jumpers have been verified as correct).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Useful Sound Board Repair Links===&lt;br /&gt;
Leon Borre&#039;s work is a good starting guide for Williams sound board repair. He was a clever guy in Belgium, who developed special test ROMs for lots of pinball systems, including Williams System 3 through 7. &#039;&#039;&#039; I can&#039;t thank him enough here!&#039;&#039;&#039; He developed a test chip that can be downloaded and burned to a 2716 Sound EPROM, which will start the CPU, &amp;quot;pulse&amp;quot; the PIA and also test the memory. It&#039;s harder to do any advanced fault repairs without this test ROM. So it&#039;s a good place to start if the sound board doesn&#039;t boot at all. Leon&#039;s technical article pertaining to Williams System 3 through 7 sound can now be found [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair here].&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Dave Langley&#039;s site [http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/techwilliamshardwareidsound.html robotron-2084.co.uk] has a clear diagram of jumper settings for most games on Williams Type 2 boards. Check jumpers first, W1 must be present if no speech board is attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing for a Sound Board fault===&lt;br /&gt;
Before starting to repair a Williams sound card, first determine that there is actually have a sound board problem! Do the sounds work correctly from the sound board &#039;self test&#039; by pressing the diagnostic button? Have you followed the diagnostic procedures in the game manual and checked the &#039;Solid State Flipper Maintenance Manual&#039; or equivalent for the specific game? There will probably be a fault on the sound board if the diagnostic test on the sound board produces nothing (or the wrong sounds) &#039;&#039;&#039;and&#039;&#039;&#039; grounding the input pins won&#039;t work. See the &#039;sound selects&#039; section for specific games below. Check out the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting section] first. After reviewing it, here are are some specific things to eliminate first: &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
* Bypass the volume control in the cabinet by removing the connector at IOJ4 and jumpering pins 1 &amp;amp; 2. It will be really loud (full volume in fact) so a couple K ohm resistor (3K?) looped around those two pins will substitute for the volume pot and save your ears.&lt;br /&gt;
* Take the sound board out, leave all the connectors still plugged in and the game running.&lt;br /&gt;
** The speaker and volume control can be set as above.&lt;br /&gt;
** Touch the back of the sound amp at IC1 with a finger - it&#039;s just under the Volume control connector J2 which was jumpered and has 5 legs. Not hearing this hum could be a missing +12v or a bad amp IC.&lt;br /&gt;
** A loud loud hum should be heard from the speakers, this proves the TDA2002 sound amp is working and also that the speakers are capable of producing sound. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SoundCardBR.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Loss of +12 or -12VDC could be caused by a failed bridge rectifier]]&lt;br /&gt;
Treat the sound board as a mini-MPU board (but with an on-board PSU) and all the usual fixes apply:&lt;br /&gt;
* Test there is around 18v AC coming in to the sound card. It&#039;s directly from the transformer to connector 10J1 and then fused with 2 x 8A fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
** Are both fuses good? Take them out and test them. &lt;br /&gt;
**Is the voltage getting further than the fuse clips? Are the fuses hot to the touch after the power is switched off? This may indicate high resistance at the fuse clips.&lt;br /&gt;
** Pin 5 of 10J1 is the &#039;center tap&#039; or reference for the AC. There should be about 9.6 V AC between pins 1 and 5, and the same voltage between pins 9 and 5.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use the test points to measure DC +5v +12v and -12v. A short-cut (and much easier) is to touch the Red test lead to the left side leads of the 3 big capacitors, with the black lead on Ground which is the metal trace on the edge of the board. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remember -12v is only needed for the speech board, and even around -10v will normally be fine.&lt;br /&gt;
**Don&#039;t worry if the voltages aren&#039;t perfect (especially the +/-12v DC which is unregulated). Only the +5v needs to be in a narrower range (4.8-5.2v).&lt;br /&gt;
**No +5v with +12v present suggests the 1 amp &#039;7805 5v regulator&#039; at IC8 is faulty. It looks like the TIP-xxx transistor as it is in a TO-220 case, with a heatsink. Measuring +12v input on the top pin and no +5v output on the bottom pin will confirm this diagnosis. Obviously the CPU (and other ICs) can&#039;t run without the +5v logic voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
* If there are Scanbe sockets, replace them first, including the ROM socket. The PIA can be left alone for now if it&#039;s soldered directly to the board and not socketed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Read the MPU board repair and troubleshooting if the board still won&#039;t &#039;boot&#039; (the CPU, working RAM and reset circuit are very similar).&lt;br /&gt;
** Because there are no LEDs to show the board is &#039;locked up&#039;, you will need to look at pins 9 - 20 &amp;amp; 22-33 on the CPU for any activity with a logic probe. If the CPU has started, there should be some activity on these address and data bus lines. If they are &#039;dead&#039;, then the CPU has not started.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you look at the CPU bus lines with Leon&#039;s sound board test ROM (instead of the sound ROM) you can see which lines are missing, and also will see the PIA lines &#039;dance&#039; as he calls it. The PIA I/O lines strobe Hi/Lo/Hi/Lo if they are working as they should. The test ROM will need to be burned on a 2716 Eprom.&lt;br /&gt;
** Review Leon Borré&#039;s [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair Williams sound board article] for advanced troubleshooting. You can fix boards more easily with his free test ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
** Note: The the test chip will not start on a Type 2 board with jumper W1 missing, unless the speech card is also connected. Mine didn&#039;t start &amp;quot;pulsing&amp;quot; without the speech card. Because of this, here&#039;s a &#039;&#039;key tip&#039;&#039;: &#039;&#039;&#039;Jumper W1, and set DS1: SW1 and SW2 to OFF and run without a speech board&#039;&#039;&#039; until the sound is working 100%. Do this now if you haven&#039;t removed the speech board already, it may not be obvious at first, but you have to get back to a basic setup and work forward from there.&lt;br /&gt;
See also [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Put the Sound/Speech Board on the Bench|Advanced Sound/Speech Board Repair on the Bench]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Back to Basics===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6-7_Sound_W1_Jumper.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Temporary W1 jumper installed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Pot Alternate.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Bypassing the volume control]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The next step, once you have verified voltages is to remove the speech board (if one is fitted) and jumper W1. Verify W1 is present for any board you are working on, as no sound gets to the audio amp without a speech board or jumper W1 present.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To bypass the volume control, a 470Kohm resistor can be installed across pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 of connector 10J4. Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped and installed in a .156&amp;quot; housing. Although a 470Kohm resistor is used in this example, other values can be used to obtain the desired volume. 470Kohms sets the volume to medium loudness.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The .156&amp;quot; set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3-7 games and 9-11 games too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Modification for Noisy Type 1 Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
On the Type 1 sound boards, Williams did not use a small value bypass capacitor on the input to the 7805 +5V regulator as recommended by the manufacturer. This bypass capacitor is used to keep noise off of the +12V voltage rail, which is used by the power amplifier IC. Installing a .22uF ceramic capacitor across the input pin (pin 1 - left pin from front) and ground (pin 2 - center pin) of the 7805 regulator can significantly reduce the amount of noise and hum on these sound cards.  Important note -- the Williams Type 1 Sound Board schematic diagram has an error.  Pin 1 is the input, pin *2* is center pin and connected to ground and pin *3* is the output.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another means to address noisy type 1 sound boards is nicely outlined &amp;quot;The Williams Guy&amp;quot; on YouTube.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] His YouTube video explaining these modifications can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENlTnL5Qgac &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 4-6 Sound Selects===&lt;br /&gt;
Press the diagnostic switch on the Sound Board. When sounds do work on the sound board self test, but you get missing or incorrect sounds during a game, then a simple test for all models of sound card is to ground the input pins. This gives you an indication that the sound board is working, as each pin should produce a distinct sound. For Type 2 boards (square ones) that&#039;s 10J3 pins 2-4 and 7, pin 1 is on the right, It may also be the same pin locations on the Type 1 boards (Flash, and other System 3 &amp;amp; 4 games).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBoardBenchTestAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Type 1 Sound board connections and grounding sound select header pins. Here, one end of a jumper wire is clipped to the ground plain of the board itself.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Grounding those sound select pins is exactly what the Driver Board does during a game solenoid diagnostic test. It fires solenoids 9-13 to ground the select pins and this triggers &#039;sound calls&#039; on System 3-6 games. If grounding the sound board pins works, then suspect cabling between the Sound Board and Driver Board or faulty transistors (or pre-drivers) on the Driver Board for the System 3-6a games. You can ground the transistor&#039;s metal tabs from the chart below, if this does not produce sounds then the cabling between Driver and Sound Boards is then suspected.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that &#039;&#039;&#039;grounding the center tab of a transistor&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;does not test the transistor(s)&#039;&#039;, it only proves that the cabling from that tab out to the sound board select pins has continuity. It does not prove the transistor(s) work as a switch under the CPU&#039;s control. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is true for &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;any testing of solenoids (or flashers) by grounding transistor tabs&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It only proves that the cabling from the Driver Board out to the device is intact, and that the device has power and can function when grounded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So the Solenoid portion of the diagnostic test will help you figure it out for a System 3-6 game. It can perhaps help for System 7 game too, although remember that sound calls are triggered from the MPU board instead.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 6 (and earlier) you will have a fault on the Driver Board, and specifically the solenoids in the range 9-13 if the following are true:&lt;br /&gt;
* The self test on the sound board works as expected,&lt;br /&gt;
* Grounding tabs on the Driver Board produces the same sounds,&lt;br /&gt;
* But the game&#039;s diagnostic tests do not trigger sounds when testing solenoids number 9-13.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If it fires the device, the problem is the transistors or the logic on the driverboard and then the PIA upstream from them. You should first replace both the associated TIP 120/102 and the matching 2n4401 pre-driver transistors on the Driver Board (a fairly easy fix) and re-test. Then follow Driver Board testing and repairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a transistor gets shorted &#039;on&#039; (or a 7408 IC is faulty) and one of the sound selects is constantly grounded from the Driver Board, you will certainly get fewer and usually wrong (or no) sounds played. This type of problem can be chased around for hours, if you don&#039;t work logically through the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;25%&amp;quot; border=2&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;Driver Board Positions&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 2J9 ||&amp;lt;font color=blue&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;font color=blue&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || 6 || 7 || 8&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 2J9 ||&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || 14 || 15&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;shows the 5 Sound Select Transistors on the bottom two rows of a System 3-6(a) Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If diagnostics don&#039;t work as you expect, as explained, ground the metal tabs of the TIP122 transistors (briefly - they may be real coils or flash lamps&amp;amp;#33;) on the bottom 2 rows of the driver board. You should hear 5 different sounds. The first 3 sound select transistors are at the bottom left of driver board. The first two the next row up are the remaining sound select transistors (solenoids 9-13 as shown on the chart above).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can of course also &#039;&#039;&#039;turn off the game&#039;&#039;&#039; and measure between the center tab and the input pins on the sound card with an DMM (meter set on continuity or Ohms). If you get high resistance readings, check for cold solder joints on the input pins of the sound board at 10J3. Then check the output pins on the Driver board at 2J9. Reflow the solder on all these pins. Do the other pins on the sound board at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another tip is that you should see the center tab of the &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue &amp;quot;sound transistors&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; running at about +5v DC on the driver board with the game running. If a tab is at zero volts, and others are at +5v then that grounded select points to the problem. Other TIP122 transistors could be at the coil potential, so have your DMM set to voltage and +50v or above for this test if it does not &#039;auto-range&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you get this far and can get 5 distinct sounds, then the problem is not the sound board, nor the connection to the driver board. With System 3-6, this could still be on the driver board and specifically: &lt;br /&gt;
* a power transistor TIP122, &lt;br /&gt;
* a matching 2n4401 pre-driver transistor , &lt;br /&gt;
* a 7408 logic IC&lt;br /&gt;
: and finally &lt;br /&gt;
* a 6821 PIA for Solenoids at IC5. As this is a 40 pin IC, it should be replaced as a last step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point just follow the driver board testing and repair guide to get further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Complete list of Driverboard 2J9 pins and the associated transistors (for Sys3-6) are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6 Driver Board 2J9 Sound Outputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
! &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Pin&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
! Sol.&lt;br /&gt;
! Function &lt;br /&gt;
! &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Transistors&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
! &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Wire Colour&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;# 9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;0&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q31 / Q30&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt; / Black&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P8&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;(*)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;N/C&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P7&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#10 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q33 / Q32&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P6&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#16&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Coin Lockout*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q45 / Q44&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Grey&amp;gt;Grey&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P5&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#15&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Depends on game*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q43 / Q42&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Violet&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#14&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Credit Knocker*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q41 / Q40&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q39 / Q38&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q37 / Q36&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#f0e68c&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q35 / Q34&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Typical functions, but depends on the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
List of J3 sound select pins on the System 6 or 7 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6/7 Sound Board Inputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
! &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;10J3 Pin&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
! Sol.&lt;br /&gt;
! Function &lt;br /&gt;
! &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Wire Colour&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;# 9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;0&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt; / Black&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#10 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P5&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#f0e68c&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P7&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;J3 P1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;(*)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;N/C&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 6, using only 5 solenoids for sound limits the number sound and speech calls. Makes 2&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;=&amp;amp;nbsp;32 so only 31 usable combinations, a call of all 0&#039;s being null. But (using Firepower as an example) you then can have all the combinations of maybe 20 sounds plus the 11 speech phrases it &amp;quot;knows&amp;quot;. So it&#039;s enough given the small amount of sound and speech memory they had to work with at the time. In fact it&#039;s amazing&amp;amp;#33; For more background, see: An interview with [http://www.firepowerpinball.com/downloads/Eugene_Jarvis_Interview.pdf&amp;quot; Eugene Jarvis], the sound engineer and programmer for Williams at the time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Changing the sound board won&#039;t cure the problem of a missing solenoid signal, and a major clue is that the sound board tests good, and is also good when grounding the 5 input pins at (Board #10) J3 input connector on the sound board.&amp;amp;nbsp; While the &amp;quot;in game&amp;quot; sounds or game diagnostics will play incorrectly or have missing sounds. For example, an email from someone said that their Firepower game could say &amp;quot;Power&amp;quot; but not &amp;quot;Fire&amp;quot;! A fairly easy diagnosis if you know the game, it pointed to transistor Q35 (a TIP122, a better replacement is the TIP102) which was completely missing from the Driver board. Transistors on the bottom row often get bent back and forth and snap clean off - hard to spot if you aren&#039;t familiar with inspecting the Driver Board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That transistor&#039;s center tab connects to 2J9 pin1 and solenoid 11 then fires sound select #2, according to the table above. Without that sound select being triggered, only half the game sounds could be produced (2&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-1&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;=&amp;amp;nbsp;15). &amp;quot;Fire&amp;quot; was one of the missing sounds, there were others but they may have not been so obvious to the owner. They would not be listed in the manual as a sound triggered by an achievement (making to rollovers F-I-R-E in this case). The point is to use all the information available to help determine the root cause of your fault.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7 Sound Selects===&lt;br /&gt;
By System 7, Williams had stopped using solenoids to fire sounds and had added a dedicated Sound/Comma PIA on the CPU board to trigger sound/speech. This meant more playfield coils and even flash lamps were now possible, as the Driver Board wasn&#039;t used to trigger the Sound Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On a Black Knight and later games, the fault could still be on the MPU board. Perhaps PIA 5 (IC36 a 6821 PIA) is suspect as this drives the sound board (and display commas) only. Again you can trigger sound selects by grounding pins on the sound board, and then move back to the header pins of the MPU at 1J8. The pins are12,11,10,9,8 in that order for the 5 sound selects 0-4 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The outputs of the IC36 PIA at PA0-PA6 connects to 1J8 starting at pin 12 (1J8 P12) and run backwards numbered as the Sound Selects in the table below:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;25%&amp;quot; border=2&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; |&#039;&#039;&#039;SYS 7 1J8 Sound &amp;amp; Comma Outputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Pin&lt;br /&gt;
! Function&lt;br /&gt;
! Wire Colour&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P1 || Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4 || &amp;lt;font color= Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / White &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P2 || Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2 || &amp;lt;font color= Violet&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P3 || Key (*) || N/C&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P4-7 || No Connection || White&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P8 || Sound Select 4 || &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#FFCC00&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Yellow&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P9 || Sound Select 3 || &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P10 || Sound Select 2 || &amp;lt;font color= Blue&amp;gt;Blue&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P11 || Sound Select 1 || &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P12 || Sound Select 0 || &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#FFCC00&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Yellow&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In theory Williams had the ability to trigger Sound Selects 0-6 from the System 7 MPU board, and could have programmed 127 sound / speech calls. But the sound boards at the time never used that many, to my knowledge. So you only need to worry about the same 5 sound selects 0-4. Be sure to first &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;check the output pins at 1J8 on the MPU Board for cold solder joints&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;, before replacing the 40 pin PIA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Put the Sound/Speech Board on the Bench===&lt;br /&gt;
By this point, it is likely that there is a sound board fault. If you don&#039;t feel comfortable troubleshooting or don&#039;t want to get involved with low level board repairs, there are repair services available--check pinball communities/forums for recommendations. [[Williams_System_3_-_7#If All Else Fails|Reproduction sound and speech boards]] are also available if all else fails.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Pinouts.JPG|300px|left|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Pinouts]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If none of this helped so far, read the rest of the section below. The boards will likely need to be bench tested in order to proceed with testing. Any PC power supply has the +12v and -12v DC that will be necessary for bench testing, which are normally located on the motherboard connectors. The older the PC power supply, the better, as they will have a power switch, but there are two pins that can be jumpered (or connected to a switch) to enable the voltage outputs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Sound Bench.JPG|300px|left|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Connected to an AT Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Sound Test Points.JPG|300px|right|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Connections for an AT Power Supply (Four Sound Board Test Points)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Search for an &amp;quot;AT Power supply&amp;quot; on the web for the connector locations or measure them with the DMM. The wires on one example were colored Yellow (+12v) and Blue (-12v). Ground was black as usual. Sliding the existing pins from the motherboard connector housing, and they will potentially fit right in a .156&amp;quot; socket to connect to the sound board. The +12 and -12 goes to the outsides of a 9 pin connector (pins 1 &amp;amp; 9) and the ground to the center pin (pin 5). It doesn&#039;t matter which way around the connector is installed--if the Bridge Rectifier (BR) is working it will sort it out by conducting through the correct diodes.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another method is to connect the AT power supply connections with alligator test leads directly to the four test points on the sound board. However, this method will not ensure that the bridge rectifer on the sound board is working or not.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point refer to [[Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair|Leon Borre&#039;s sound board test link]]. He has an excellent approach to a sound board that is dead. A copy of his sound test ROM will need to be burned to an EPROM. A logic probe (under $20) will also be needed, but Leon describes how to make an LED test probe with some wire, an LED, and a resistor which costs a few cents. The logic probe will be more versatile and easier to use. As mentioned before, the Test ROM can check the CPU, memory and also exercises the PIA inputs/outputs. An added bonus is that the test ROM will allow the board to boot, even though there are faults on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Checking for Sounds Prior to the Sound Amplifier===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Preamp Probe.JPG|300px|left|thumb|An unamplified speaker used to probe for sounds before the sound amplifier]]&lt;br /&gt;
A method to test for sounds prior to the amplifier is to check the output of the D/A converter. This can be accomplished by building a speaker set up. It starts with a low wattage speaker, which does not need amplification to produce sounds. A speaker from an old computer case is a great source. After acquiring a speaker, solder two wire leads to it. Then, solder an alligator test clip to one of the leads, and a small piece of solid, copper, house wire (14 or 12 gauge romex works well) or a small finishing nail to the other lead. The second lead will be used to probe the sound output before amplification. This speaker test set up can be used on any other brand sound board too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the speaker test set up is constructed, clip the alligator test lead to ground. Then, place the probe lead on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; collector leg / solder pad of the Q2 transistor, as shown in the picture. Once the probe is in place, press the sound board test button. The speaker will have to be placed close to one&#039;s ear to hear the sounds, if any sounds are being output. If the sounds are being heard, either the amp (IC1 - TDA2002) has failed, has lost connection (cold solder joints), or is not being powered properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally the probe would be used to check the sound output right on the leg of the D/A converter (IC13 - 1408). However, pin 4 of IC13 (the output) is adjacent to pin 3, which inputs the -12vdc power to the D/A converter. It is much safer to use the collector leg of Q2 as a probing point to avoid shorting pins 3 and 4 together.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the if the 1408 DAC has failed, it can be subbed with the more readily available DAC0808. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Getting Sound and Speech Working Together===&lt;br /&gt;
The very first thing is to make sure you have the correct jumper settings and ROM types.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can NOT &amp;quot;mix and match&amp;quot; sound and speech ROMs as you like.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My experience is on Williams System 4-7 pinball where the Sound ROMs are 2716 Eproms and the Speech are always 2532 Eproms. The exceptions are video games (and a few pinballs), such as Defender, Sinistar, Robotron and Joust which use a 2532 on the sound board ROM and each has special jumper settings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;You need the correct Sound ROM type for your game&#039;s Speech ROMs&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firepower &#039;&#039;&#039;and&#039;&#039;&#039; Alien Poker both use &amp;quot;WMS Sound ROM 3&amp;quot; no matter &#039;&#039;&#039;what&#039;&#039;&#039; the Alien Poker manuals (or ROM download archives) say. It&#039;s the only way I ever got speech to work on my Alien Poker. If you have [[Blackout]], you will need a 2716 Sound ROM 2 to go with Blackout&#039;s 2532 Speech ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is mainly a warning if you will be plugging together different boards on a workbench or when troubleshooting a problem, don&#039;t trust that all Sound ROMs work with all speech boards !&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram on placement of the Speech ICs, as the layout of the ROMs aren&#039;t very logical. Check they are correct. This diagram works for any of this type of Speech Daughter board. Replace your game number nnn in ST-nnn-ROM# format. &lt;br /&gt;
See examples for [[Firepower]] (497), [[Alien Poker]] (501) and [[Black Knight]] (500), which are among my favourites. &lt;br /&gt;
The information is provided for clarity, it is recommended that you replace Original Speech Mask Roms with newer 2532 Eproms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; unless a System 9 speech board is available with jumpers, 2732 Eproms cannot be used for the speech board, unless the board is [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Speech ROM IC socket locations:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Speech-ICs.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also distrust the switch settings and be aware that you could have a faulty DIP switch on the Type 2 board. It can happen! Test by removing the 2-way switch, or jumpering across the back of the switch. If DS1-2 is not connecting, you will hear sounds- but no speech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clue here is that if you press the sound board diagnostic switch, you hear BOTH sounds and speech.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Speech Scanbe.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 6/7 Speech Board with Scanbe Sockets]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Speech Scanbe Socket.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Identifying Scanbe Sockets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Speech ROMs and Speech Board sockets should eliminated, you can measure continuity on all pins from the Speech ROM to the bottom of the socket or back of board before replacing Sockets. If they say &#039;&#039;&#039;SCANBE&#039;&#039;&#039; then replace them as they will be faulty. &lt;br /&gt;
: Gaps in speech usually point to a faulty Speech ROM, look in the manuals for which ROMs hold the missing words.&lt;br /&gt;
: Suspect the logic selects on the sound board or the 40-way IDC connection between the speech board to the sound board. Watching for &#039;chip select&#039; pins 20 on each Speech ROM with a logic probe will help you see the chips being selected by the sound board. Again knowing which ROMs hold the missing phrases will help. No speech selects can point to the interboard cables, or missing outputs from IC2 (a 7442 decoder) &#039;&#039;&#039;on the Sound Board&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
:Bear in mind that the Speech card is an &#039;expansion board&#039; to hold ROM space for the speech and the digital/analogue mixer. The address and data buses extend across the &#039;40-way&#039; IDC connector in a similar way to the connector between the MPU and Driver Board. Except the connector solution is more robust and IDC was still used until recently to connect IDE PC hard drives. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other problems that could cause sounds but missing speech include:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
* W1 is jumpered, &lt;br /&gt;
* W9 is NOT jumpered (W4 is probably in place), &lt;br /&gt;
* IC7 (inverter) faulty,&lt;br /&gt;
* IC10 (6821 PIA) is faulty (use Leon&#039;s Sound Board test chip) &lt;br /&gt;
* Faulty speech board (no speech) or speech ROMs are installed incorrectly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switch 2 MUST be ON for speech. OFF for no speech. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switch 1 selects between Tones and Synth Sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
ON for musical tones (more like bings and bongs), &lt;br /&gt;
OFF for Synthesized Sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;10%&amp;quot; border=2  style=&amp;quot;text-align: center;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;DS1 Set correctly for Sounds and Speech&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
| SW 2&lt;br /&gt;
| ON&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 1&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;10%&amp;quot; border=2  style=&amp;quot;text-align: center;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;DS1 Set for Sounds only&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
| SW 2&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 1&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You will also have to &#039;&#039;&#039;jumper W1&#039;&#039;&#039; if this is not in place.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Excessive Hum from Type 1 Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
A possible solution for excessive hum from the Type 1, rectangular, sound boards is discussed on PinSide, [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-flash-speaker-hum#post-8637841 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Speech Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
===Common failure parts===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7SpeechBoardBefore.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Speech board sockets. These are Molex, but &amp;quot;they gotta go&amp;quot;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7SpeechBoardAfter.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Nice twin wipe sockets, which are preferred over machine pin sockets.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first and most important action when debugging a Speech board is to eliminate all of the common failure issues. With these issues out of the way, it is much easier to focus on the real issues preventing proper operation. And, eliminating these typical trouble areas almost always brings the board back to full operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The most frequent reason for failure of the speech board are the OEM sockets. ScanBe sockets, or white sockets pictured here, should be replaced. If a ROM can be easily removed using only your fingers, the socket should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also check the ribbon cable to the sound card. It breaks frequently at pin 1 which carries the 5V Analog voltage. If you replace the cable make sure that you do not damage the J1 connector. The part is either NLA or so obscure no one stocks it. Fortunately you can gently pull off the cover and reuse it with a new cable. The counterpart is a standard ribbon connector and must be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These days one or two of the MC1458 chips on the speech board go bad too frequently. This results usually in either no sound and/or missing speech. These should be replaced in any case while you are on it. Use good quality machine pin sockets when replacing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your speech is garbled and you replaced the MC1458 chips the 55516 CVSD at location IC1 might be bad. This is somewhat rare but not unheard of. The part is long since obsolete and hard to source. It can be replaced with a 55532, 55536 or 55564. Only the 55564, which was used up to the Williams WPC era, seems to be somewhat available. Check your favorite pinball shop for it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As with all electronics other parts can fail but the above parts are responsible for around 95% of all speech card failures. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using the Sound Board Test ROM===&lt;br /&gt;
Leon&#039;s test ROM and instructions will be very useful. The ROM and instructions are available [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A video of Leon&#039;s ROM working correctly in a Williams Sound and Speech Board pair can be found [https://youtu.be/NYG7AK0G838?si=Js-n_WkNQSONwS-X here]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The the test chip will not start on a Type 2 board with jumper W1 missing, unless the speech card is &lt;br /&gt;
also connected. Mine didn&#039;t start &amp;quot;pulsing&amp;quot; without the speech card. A 2716 ROM can be used. Or a 2732 ROM can be used by doubling the image.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a key tip: Divide and conquer. Install jumper W1, set SW1 and SW2 to OFF, and &#039;&#039;&#039;test without the speech board&#039;&#039;&#039; until sounds are working 100%.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following is an attempt to list notable Williams games that used these boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are conflicting lists, Hyperball could be a 2532 ROM #8. as the file hypsnd12.532 has a checksum of 0x25A8 - which doesn&#039;t match other sound ROM images.  So the list is not perfect.  Some corrections have been as of Feb 2011 after more research. If you have updates or can confirm Williams sound ROM numbers (and compared checksums) then please go ahead and edit this table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Game and Sound ROM checksums&#039;&#039;&#039; can be found [https://web.archive.org/web/20141208121800/http://pin-logic.com/early_williams_pinball_game.htm pinball here], originally published at Tom Callahan&#039;s pinlogic.com.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+ &#039;&#039;&#039;Williams Pinball Machines that use a Type 2 Sound Board and a Speech Board&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
!Name &lt;br /&gt;
!Sys&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!WMS Sound ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Blackout&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;495&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 2&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Gorgar&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;496&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 2&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Firepower&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;497&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;500&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Alien Poker&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6A&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;501&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3 &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;confirmed&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Jungle Lord&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;503&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Pharoah&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;504&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 6&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One Williams video game used the Sound and Speech Board, Sinistar (cockpit front) and Upright &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;ROM 9&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;60%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
|+ &#039;&#039;&#039;Williams Pinball Machines that use Sound Boards Only&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
!Name&lt;br /&gt;
!Sys&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!WMS Board, Sound ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Flash&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;486&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Warp&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;489&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Stellar Wars&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;490&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Laser Ball&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;493&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 2&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Scorpion&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;494&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Algar&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6A&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;499&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Cosmic Gunfight&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;502&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board, ROM 12&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Solar Fire&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;507&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,ROM 7&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Hyperball &amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(n)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;509&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt; SPECIAL&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 8?&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;510&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,ROM 4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Fantasy&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;515&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,ROM 13&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Warlock (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;516&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,ROM 14&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Defender (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;517&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,ROM 15&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Joust (2 player head to head)&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;519&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;SPECIAL&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Snd_IC12.532 ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Laser Cue&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;520&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Firepower II&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;521&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,ROM 13&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;530&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board, ROM 3 &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;ROM 4 has been found in at least one game&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;(n)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Not a Pinball, a shooter game that shoots 1/2&amp;quot; balls. Similar to Bally&#039;s [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=3568 Rapid Fire].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Quite a rare and beautiful pinball. Only 100 were produced, the last Williams System 7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Name&lt;br /&gt;
!WMS Board &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Video&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Bubbles&lt;br /&gt;
| Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Defender (Video)&lt;br /&gt;
| Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Joust (Video)&lt;br /&gt;
| Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&amp;quot;VIDEO&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 4 (Checksum matches ROM 4 from Algar and Barracora)&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Robotron 2048&lt;br /&gt;
| Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Sinistar (cockpit rear)&lt;br /&gt;
| Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 10&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please Note: &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROMS and those for Joust (2 player head to head) and Hyperball are 2532 Eproms&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An annoying fact is that from around System 7, most of the WMS sound ROM files are all named something like &#039;&#039;&#039;SND_IC12.716&#039;&#039;&#039;, which makes them harder to identify. In this example, IC stands for Integrated Circuit, and the 12 is the chip number (U12) found on the board. The file extension indicates the type and size of the EPROM (a 2&#039;&#039;&#039;716&#039;&#039;&#039;, in this case).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Running a Type 2 Sound Board with a 6802 CPU===&lt;br /&gt;
You might not have an 6808 CPU, or you might upgrade to a 6802 because then there is one less IC (the 6810 RAM) to go wrong.  You can leave the 6810 (as it&#039;s not socketed) if the card functions with it in place.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can get the Type 2 board to run on a 6802 CPU, without a working 6810 RAM in IC11.  To do this you cut a track called W14. It isn&#039;t a 0 ohm resistor (or a real jumper), it&#039;s a track located under R30, the 3rd resistor in from Left on the Bottom Left of the board. W14 grounds pin 36 of the processor for a 6808 CPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to use a 6802, you cut the track W14. Pin 36 will go high through the 4.7K &amp;quot;pull up&amp;quot; resistor at R30. You could then remove the 6810 RAM as the 6802 has internal RAM. My advice is again to just &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;leave it in place&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; if the card functions with it there. I had to rework tracks damaged by removing a 6810 on one sound board being repaired.  Avoid making extra work for yourself, and &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;spend more time playing pinball&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;.  That way it can be reverted back to 6808 operation in future. Good instructions are currently at [http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/techwilliamshardwareidsound.html www.robotron-2084.co.uk].  A useful site for arcade video and pinball and Dave has a nice Defender pinball to look at while you&#039;re there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Modifying the System 6/7 Speech Board to Use 2732 EPROMs===&lt;br /&gt;
The original System 6/7 speech board is setup to only use 2532 EPROMs.  With the following simple modifications, a speech board can use 2732 EPROMs instead, if the need arises.  Please be aware that although these modifications are reversible, it is not nearly as easy to change a modified board using 2732 EPROMs back to a board which uses 2532 EPROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#On the component side of the board, there is a trace which runs beneath the ribbon cable connection and between pins 11 and 12 of U5 (the lowest two pins on the left).  Cut this trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the board over to the solder side.  The orientation of the board in the pic below is with the ribbon cable connection on the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate pin 18 of U5.  There is a trace between pin 18 of U5 and a via down and to the right of it.  To verify the correct via, check continuity between pin 13 of the ribbon cable (fourth pin up on far right of the ribbon connections) and the via.  Cut the trace between this via and pin 18 of U5&lt;br /&gt;
#There is another via slightly down and to the right of the previously discussed via.  This second via will have continuity between it and pin 12 on the ribbon cable (third pin up on far left of the ribbon connections).  The via will also have continuity between pin 21 of U5.  Using wire wrap or a thin gauge wire, tie these two vias together.&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate pin 18 of U5 and pin 12 of U4 (down and to the left of U5 pin 18). Again using wire wrap or a thin gauge wire, tie pin 18 of U5 to pin 12 of U4.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 6/7 Speech Board 2732 EPROM Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys67 Speech 2732 Mod Front.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Trace cut on component side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys67 Speech 2732 Mod Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Trace cut and two jumpers added on solder side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Replacing the on-board volume control with a remote volume pot (System 4)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0760.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 4 original volume pot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0761.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Connector 10J4, with pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 bridged with solder.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the volume pot on your system 4 or later sound board fails or otherwise needs replacement, it&#039;s often difficult (or impossible) to find a direct matching part.  In such cases adding a remote volume pot may be the only solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing to do is flip the board over and make sure that somebody hasn&#039;t bridged pins 1 and 2 of connector 10J4, as shown here.  If it has been bridged, remove the solder bridge and solder the pins independently to the board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0762.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Taking a reading across volume pot legs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0763.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Taking a reading across volume pot legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Take a resistance reading across the existing volume potentiometer&#039;s legs.  If you get a reading above 4K ohms, the potentiometer is not mostly shorted and will not require its leg to be cut as detailed below.  (i.e. you may skip that step below.)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This potentiometer is not mostly shorted and could be left un-cut.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0764.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Cutting the volume pot&#039;s left leg.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0765.jpg|300px|thumb|right|After cutting volume pot&#039;s left leg.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the previous resistance reading reads less than 4K ohms, then one leg of the potentiometer &#039;&#039;&#039;must&#039;&#039;&#039; be cut.  (This one was cut for the sake of demonstration.)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the cut, the potentiometer should look similar to this.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0766.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Jumper added across volume pot legs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0767.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Replacement potentiometer.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;In all cases, a jumper must be added to the back side of the board to bypass what is left of the old potentiometer.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A new 5k-ohm, audio (logarithmic) taper potentiometer must be sourced.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0768.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Wiring of new potentiometer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0769.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Wiring of 10P4.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Here a radio shack 271-1720 potentiometer was used.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three wires must be run between the potentiometer and 10P4, the plug that connects to 10J4.  The wires must then be connected to 10P4, as shown.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Plug the new 10P4 into 10J4, and the on-board volume pot will be bypassed with the new external pot.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===If All Else Fails===&lt;br /&gt;
You can source a replacement sound/speech board.  It may be more cost effective than sending out your sound boards to be fixed, especially as you may be able to sell the original boards to get back some of the initial outlay.  These are good quality products, the price isn&#039;t bad and they should last for many years to come.  James Kohout&#039;s [http://www.pinballpcb.com pinballpcb.com]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Solenoid Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Controlled Solenoids===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSPharoahExtraGround.jpg|300px|thumb|left|In addition to the ground braid being screwed to this post, a white wire with red stripe is also connected.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some Williams games provide ground for coils via an extra wire (white/red) that must be connected to the backbox ground stud as shown in the picture at left. If this wire is not connected, some coils will not work. An example is Pharaoh, which uses this path to ground for both &amp;quot;Magna Save&amp;quot; magnets and the hidden tomb coils.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: in the example picture, a nut has been used to replace the typical &amp;quot;wing nut&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special Note Regarding Coin Lockout Coil and Free Play====&lt;br /&gt;
When some games (perhaps all games but at least Flash using Green ROMs) are set on &amp;quot;free play&amp;quot;, by setting adjustment 18 to zero, the coin lockout coil will not be turned on. This makes sense since when free play is enabled, coins should drop straight through the coin mech and into the coin return.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7SpecialSolenoidDrives.jpg ‎||left||thumb||300px||A closeup of the special solenoid circuitry showing transistors Q2 through Q12. Note that these transistors are not numbered row and column sequentially. Argh!]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7SpecialSolenoidDiagram.jpg ‎||right||thumb||300px||Diagram of Williams System 3-7 Driver Board Special Solenoid Section]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Special Solenoid drives switch power to ground for pop bumpers and sling shots. This &amp;quot;special&amp;quot; circuitry was implemented with the thought that the switch matrix could not be polled rapidly enough for these devices to be highly responsive. The drive transistors can be switched on either by a switch closure on the device, or under software control by the CPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Special Solenoid drive transistors, Q2 through Q12, are located just above the flipper power ground enable relay Z1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flaw in this circuitry is that a &amp;quot;one shot&amp;quot; was not implemented (ala Gottlieb System 80 Pop Bumper Driver Boards).  One shot circuitry only allows the associated solenoid to engage once per switch closure.  In the case of the Williams special solenoids, as long as the switch is tied to ground, the solenoid will be engaged.  As long as a device switch (pop bumper or sling) is closed, then coil power will be switched to ground continuously, eventually overheating and killing the associated TIP-122 (or TIP-102) transistor and / or the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is also a lack of &amp;quot;intelligence&amp;quot; in the software as was implemented eventually in WPC games. WPC games disable a device if the device&#039;s associated switch is sensed closed 10 times in succession without sensing any other switch closure. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Theory of operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The trigger switch is connected to ground on one side. It is connected to 5V on the other side via a 4.7Kohm pullup resistor and also connected to one of the 4 NOR gate inputs of a 74LS02 IC. This holds the input of the 74LS02 at logic high until the switch is closed and thereby shorted to ground, changing the logic state to low.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A 74LS02 is a quad NOR gate. NOR gates require both inputs of the NOR gate to be logic low (0) for the output to yield logic high (1). If either of the 2 inputs to the NOR gate are high, the NOR gate output is low. For example, if input pins 11 and pin 12 are both low (logic &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;), then output pin 13 will be high (logic &amp;quot;1&amp;quot;). If either input pin 11 or 12 is at logic high, then output pin 13 will be low (logic &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This implementation allows the CPU to &amp;quot;disable&amp;quot; the special solenoids by simply holding one NOR input high, rendering the output low (logic &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;) regardless of the switch being closed or not. The output from the 74LS02 drives a 2N4401 pre-driver transistor which is used to switch the TIP-122 (a TIP-102 or BDX-53C can be substituted) drive transistor on, and hence proved a path to ground for coil power and energizing the coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Arc Suppression Resistor/Capacitor for Special Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
See also: [[#Wetting_Current_Resistor.2FCapacitor_for_Special_Solenoids|Wetting Current Resistor/Capacitor for Special Solenoids]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While a certain amount of current is necessary to help keep contacts clean, too much current can result in arcing when a switch is opened, which over time, can cause pitting and erode the contacts. To prevent this, an RC network is placed across the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the contacts in an arc suppression circuit open, the applied voltage is placed across the capacitor and not the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The capacitor charges at a rate faster than the contacts open which prevents an arc from forming across the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
When the contacts close, the inrush current from the charged capacitor and source can be substantially higher than the contacts can safely conduct, causing the contacts to deteriorate. This is why it is important to have a resistor in series with the capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
The resistor acts as a current limiter which reduces the inrush current by a significant amount. The arc produced at the contact closure is greatly reduced, thus extending the service life of the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reference: https://testguy.net/content/362-Arc-suppression-circuits &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Wetting Current Resistor/Capacitor for Special Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System4SpoonSwitch.jpg  ‎||left||thumb||300px||A resistor/capacitor connected across a pop bumper spoon switch.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RCNetworkSystem4.jpg ‎||right||thumb||300px||The schematic for the circuit as implemented for slingshot switches.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a 22uf capacitor and a 100ohm resistor, themselves connected in series, wired across special solenoid switches to provide a minimum &amp;quot;wetting current&amp;quot; across the switch contacts. This implementation also provides some measure of &amp;quot;electrical debouncing&amp;quot; of the switch. In the image at left, the black wire is coil power from the power supply. The orange wire is the path back to ground via a driver board special solenoid drive transistor. The green and white wires are switch matrix wires for the &amp;quot;scoring switch&amp;quot;. A 1N4004 switch isolation diode is used just like any other switch matrix switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wetting_current&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The special solenoid switch contacts are pulled high to 5 VDC through a 4.7K ohm resistor on the driver board. When the special solenoid switch closes, this voltage is shunted to ground resulting in a current through the contacts of approximately 1 mA. This very low &amp;quot;wetting current&amp;quot; is insufficient to keep the contact surfaces clean and free from dirt and oxides. An RC network is placed across the contacts to increase the wetting current and help break through any dirt or oxidation that has formed on the contact surfaces. When the contacts are open, the capacitor charges to 5 VDC through the 4.7K and 100 ohm resistors in series. When the contacts close, the capacitor discharges through the contacts and the 100 ohm resistor, resulting in a momentary peak current of approximately 50 mA. This discharge wetting current is sufficient to burn off any surface film that has built up on the contacts. Once the contacts open again, the capacitor begins charging again and effectively extending the contact closure time. This also provides some amount of electrical debouncing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Lamp Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===General Illumination Lamps===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PowerSupplyBurn.jpg||left||thumb||300px||An extreme example of high current damage to the general illumination traces of a System 7 power supply.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest weaknesses of the System 7 board set (starting with the later run of Black Knight) is the general illumination PCB connection. The configuration of that connection evolved from a two pin Molex connector into four (two for AC in, two for AC return) 18 gauge wires soldered directly to the board and connected to the transformer secondary with a 4-pin Molex connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Controlled Lamps (Lamp Matrix)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One source of problems with the lamp matrix can be the 27 ohm 3 watt resistors used for the lamp columns.  These resistors put out a &#039;&#039;&#039;ton&#039;&#039;&#039; of heat!  In some extreme instances, they can get so hot that they will literally melt the solder which holds them to the driver board, and fail off the board.  It is best to replace these resistors with 27 ohm 5 watt resistors.  The 5 watt variants can dissipate the heat a little better.  When replacing these resistors, make certain to allow enough space under them to allow for air cooling.  Even though it is best to use higher wattage resistors, they still put out a fair amount of heat. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=350px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 3-7 Driver Board Lamp Matrix Resistors&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wmsdriver_heatdamagedresistors.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Old resistors in questionable condition due to overheating.  Note these are 3 watt resistors as shipped by WMS.  Later boards used 5 watt versions.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Using a pencil to allow proper spacing of the resistors from the driver board.  One by one, place the legs of the resistors through the circuit board, and bend the legs over.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Flip the board over, and allow the resistors to &amp;quot;hang&amp;quot; off the board.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors After.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;New resistors soldered on the board with ample air flow beneath them.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ResistorRaising.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Another method of raising the resistors. Be sure to remove the cardboard when complete.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem3-7LampMatrixResistorsRaised.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Side view of resistors raised with ample air flow beneath them.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Testing the Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a generic [[media:13-lampwiring.pdf|Lamp Matrix Diagram]] which you can refer to for testing the lamp matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Reducing heat by replacing the TIP-42 lamp drive transistors and eliminating the 27 ohm current limiting resistors====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. The TIP42 transistors are bipolar PNP transistors, and require a lot of drive current on the base. The current through the 27 ohm resistors does not even go to lamps, just to the base. The issue starts when the 40 pin interface connector becomes faulty. If the lamp scan update is not received by the driver board, it will sit on one selected column of lamps.. and promptly burn one 27 ohm resistor off the board, possibly burning a hole in the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first method below is simpler to implement, but the second method is included, as it has been implemented for many years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the first upgrade method, replace the 8 TIP42 transistors with the darlington version, which require much less current. Get 8 TIP125 transistors, and replace the 8 original transistors, being careful to keep them oriented the same way. Masking tape can keep all 8 lined up while soldering. The second step is to remove all 8 of the 27 ohm resistors, and replace them with 10K 1/4W resistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The second method uses modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By using a &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; circuit with two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half, the MOSFET will be driven with 9 VDC Vgs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys3-7_Lamp_FETs_Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-7 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q63, Q65, Q67, Q69, Q71, Q73, Q75, Q77&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R149-R156&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistors R141-R148&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-7FETs.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Another implementation of 1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys3-7_1K_Resistor_Lamp_FETs_Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Closeup of 1 kohm resistors added to solder side of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pay close attention when adding the 1 Kohm resistors to the solder side of the driver board on heavily burnt / delaminated boards.  The resistor leg and / or the end of resistor leg comes within close proximity of the same column or adjacent column traces.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7DriverFETModAlternate.jpg ‎|300px|left|thumb|Another implementation of 1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board. This implementation requires less resistor leg bending and hence, a much easier install.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7FETFrontSideOnlyMod.jpg ‎|300px|right|thumb|A &amp;quot;component side only&amp;quot; implementation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Victor, Pinsider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Yet more ways to efficiently add the voltage dividing resistors.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==Flash Lamp Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3-7 flash lamps (and System 9/11 also) are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, then neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 3-7 (and 11) Warming Board Implementation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:FPWarming.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Firepower warming board. The 330ohm resistor has clearly failed. This board is connected to the game wiring differently than Gorgar and is not factory, yet it works. The red wires are power. It&#039;s difficult to see in this pic but a yellow wire is also connected to the red wires. That yellow wire connects to two flashlamps in series. The other yellow wire returns from those flashlamps and is connected to the 1ohm and 330ohm resistors. Power finds ground through the 330ohm resistor and the black wire. This forms the &amp;quot;warming circuit&amp;quot;. Power also finds ground through the 1ohm resistor, the brown/violet wire and the driver board drive transistor.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:FirePowerWarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Firepower warming board. The 330ohm resistor has been replaced. This board is also connected to the game wiring differently than Gorgar and is not factory, yet it works. The two yellow wires connect to two flashlamps in series. Red is flashlamp power. Black is ground. The remaining wire is a path to ground via the drive transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GorgarWarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Gorgar warming board. The two yellow wires connect to two flashlamps in series. Red is flashlamp power. Black is ground. The remaining brown/violet wire is a path to ground via the drive transistor. This warming board wiring matches the schematics and corresponds to factory wiring.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WarmingResistorSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Warming Resistor circuit shown in Stellar Wars schematics. Note the two #89 lamps wired in series. They are dimly lit with power from the red wire, through the 1 ohm resistor, through the lamps, through the 330 ohm resistor, and then to ground. They will fully light when the drive transistor that services the GRY-BLK wire is switched on, providing a low resistance path to ground and effectively removing the 330 ohm resistor from the circuit.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The diagram at left shows the physical connections to be made by the warming board. The schematic snippet at right is from Stellar Wars (System 4) and accurately depicts connections. The schematic contained in Gorgar is not correct for this circuit. Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Switch Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WARNINGS:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Never use a file, sandpaper, or anything more abrasive than an old business card to clean gold flashed switches. Doing so will remove the gold flashing and permanently ruin the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
*Never adjust switches with the game powered on. It is far too easy to short the switch, or your adjustment tool, to adjacent power (lamps or solenoids) and damage the switch matrix circuitry on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only switches that can be filed are tungsten switches which are both materially and physically quite different from gold flashed switches. In a System 3-7 game, the only tungsten switches are the cabinet flipper buttons and the flipper mechanism end-of-stroke switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tungsten cabinet flipper switches and end-of-stroke switches &amp;quot;arc&amp;quot; and will become blackened (or whitened) and pitted over time. Once this happens, the resistance between the switch pair increases, which reduces electric current, which reduces coil power, which reduces flipper strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switches vary from game to game, most are standard for WMS System 3-7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A few of the common switches are listed here:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; |System 3-7 Switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Common use&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|SW-1A-118 || Spinner Blade switch&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-124 || Rollover Lanes (inlanes/outlanes as well)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-130-1 || Switch Rightmost on Ball Runway (Ball Locks, with round white nylon piece on leaf end)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-136   || 2nd Ball Runway Switch (typical, depending on game)  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-137   || 3rd Ball Runway Switch (typical, depending on game)  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-138   || Shooter Lane Switch&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-139   || Lane Change Switch (can use SW-1A-150, usually stacked to right flipper or right EOS)&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These were used throughout the Williams games: &lt;br /&gt;
Examples are for the above include System 3, System 4 (Flash), System 6(a) (Firepower and Alien Poker), System 7 (Black Knight).  Some appear on F-14 Tomcat (’87) and further, even after most Ball Ramp switches had changed over to micro switches.  Black knight also used micro switch kits, which Williams provided as a field replacement kit for operators.  Drop Targets also had factory micro-switch adapters fitted later to make them more reliable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Switch Assembly Note&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;:  The Williams factory (or more accurately their suppliers) assembled many switches so one of the blades was facing the wrong way.  It should have two gold contacts facing each other, where in fact one blade faces so that the rough-sided rivet is making contact.  If you have an intermittent switch, it can be worth the time to de-solder it and remove from the game and then carefully pry the switch stack apart and reassemble the switch so the gold contacts face toward each other.  Keep the exact order of spacers and just reverse the one blade.  While there, carefully clean the switch contacts with naptha and a clean cloth.  Again, please don&#039;t use emery (or files) on these switch points!  Once the gold has worn, they form &amp;quot;dead spots&amp;quot; and won&#039;t work reliably.  Another symptom of the misassembled switch stacks is multiple switch closures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How the Switch Matrix Works===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First of all, a switch is usually an electro-mechanical device with moving parts.  This includes leaf blade switches, tilt switches (where the ring is fixed and the plumb bob is the moving part of the switch) and micro-switches.  When a mechanical switch closes the contacts tend to oscillate before coming to rest.  It literally &#039;bounces&#039; several times before remaining closed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU could see the rapid open/close events as multiple switch closures, so there is usually some &#039;debounce logic&#039; built into switch matrix reading programs.  The CPU sees a switch closure and then &#039;checks back&#039; to see if it remained closed as few milliseconds later.  If it is closed, the CPU processes the event once, scoring the correct value or in some cases triggering a solenoid to fire. In the case of Williams 3-7 games, the switch debouncing for normal switches is done at the software level; unlike other contemporary manufacturers&#039; method, Williams&#039; software is more sophisticated in that the definition of switches include the ability to treat a switch as fast-response (example: spinner switch), normal response (lane rollovers - longer &#039;ignore time&#039; to prevent duplicate reads on a slow traveling ball), and the longest time (trough switches - where the ball would travel over the first 2 switches on a multiball machine, you would not want those to react unless a ball were truly in the trough).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As an aside, an optical switch (or opto) has no moving parts and so doesn&#039;t suffer from mechanical switch &#039;bounce&#039;.  (An optical switch can suffer from electronic switch bounce - many rapid activations per second - which is why they usually utilize circuitry known as a Schmitt Trigger to lower the probability of debounce errors). It also shouldn&#039;t need adjustment or in theory wear out as quickly as say a micro-switch. However, an opto needs additional circuits and is not as simple to work on or replace as other switch types.  Although you can not see an infrared transmitter with you naked eye, you can look at it with a digital camera. Optos were never used in System 3-7 games, although they were engineered and prototyped just at the end of System 7. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring up every switch separately with multiple wires running to the backbox would be expensive in the amount of wiring and in the number of inputs required to the game&#039;s logic.  Rather than do that, the engineers designed a switch matrix with 8 column wires and 8 row wires, creating a &#039;matrix&#039; of 8x8 giving a total of 64 possible switches.  Not all of these switch positions are used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first column of the switch matrix (COL 1) is dedicated to the same switches on the System 3-7 games.  You can check in a manual, but these will be the cabinet tilts, the coin switches which sense coin drops, the credit button (to start a game) and the high score reset which is also in the cabinet (on the coin door).  In order from row 1 through row 8, they are the plumb bob tilt, ball roll tilt, credit button, right coin chute, center coin chute, left coin chute, slam tilt, and high score reset button.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the most part other switches will be on the playfield (exceptions could be a lane change or magnasave button/switch). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So how is the switch matrix read by the MPU?  It uses the most useful Peripheral I/O device in this pinball era, the Motorola 6821 PIA (earlier this was the MC6820 PIA).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6821 is made up of two 8 bit ports, one port is known as &#039;Port A&#039; and the other &#039;Port B&#039;. Any of the 16 pins can be configured as inputs or outputs.  That&#039;s exactly what&#039;s needed to drive our Switch Matrix!  An 8-way output port B to &#039;send&#039; (or strobe) down the Columns to the switches, and an 8-way input port A to &#039;read&#039; the Rows from the switches.  The Columns are known commonly as &#039;Drives&#039; or &#039;Strobes&#039; and the Rows are known as &#039;Returns&#039; for this reason.  In a similar way (an 8x8 matrix) another PIA is used for the Lamp Matrix.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch matrix PIA is at IC11 on the Driver Board (also called PIA II).  This PIA doesn&#039;t drive the switch matrix directly from it&#039;s TTL output pins. There are +5v powered &#039;pull-up&#039; resistors and 4 IC&#039;s which act as drivers/buffers helping to protect the PIA from damage if the switch matrix is shorted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
;Two 7406 (Hex Inverter / Buffer with open collector HV outputs) is used to &#039;drive&#039; the Columns.  &lt;br /&gt;
:A 7406 or 74LS06 will work and are common parts.&lt;br /&gt;
;Two 4049 (or 14049 &amp;quot;CMOS Hex Inverter / Buffer) is used to &#039;read&#039; the Rows. &lt;br /&gt;
:The MC14049 or CD4049UBCN are common examples, although any 14049 or 4049 14-leg DIP will work.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;(Hex in this context refers to six inverters contained in the one IC package.  It&#039;s nothing to do with the computer (or math) Hex meaning of &#039;base 16&#039;.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU writes to the output port of the PIA driving column 1, then the return input port is saved, holding the status of all 8 rows in one byte. The program then &#039;looks&#039; at each of the rows 1-8 in quick succession.  It checks to see if the signal is getting through on the row that&#039;s currently being read.  Think of it as an 8 bit answer for that column showing which switches in that column are closed.  Say 00010001 returned would mean switches at C1,R4 and C1,R8 are closed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So for every &#039;drive&#039; down a column, the machine does 8 &#039;reads&#039; of the rows. Then the CPU moves on and drives column 2, looking again at each of the rows 1-8.  It continues through all of the remaining columns in this way.  This is done very rapidly by the CPU, strobing the whole matrix looping over and over many times a second.  Because it&#039;s so fast, even multiple switch closures are rarely missed, in fact as mentioned above it has to debounce the results to obtain an accurate result.  Williams&#039; operating system software on machines from at least system 6 up through system 11 have differing debounce values depending on the type of switch, allowing greater sensitivity on certain types of switches, and desensitizing others (such as lock or trough switches).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The diodes on every switch help to steer the drives only to the row that&#039;s being read and not back into other parts of the matrix.  That&#039;s why good diodes on switches are so important, as they must only allow current to flow in one direction: &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;from&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; column &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;to&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; row.  Essentially that&#039;s how the switch matrix reads switch closures. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This [https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_switch_matrix.html article] by Aeneas describing a later game&#039;s switch matrix may be useful as a different explanation with a diagram. Transistors can be used on the drives (as with modern games like DE or Stern ), different buffer chips can be used, but the basic switch matrix design hasn&#039;t changed over the years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally a warning about protecting the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;nothing&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; will protect the switch matrix IC&#039;s and PIA if (for example) the +50v solenoid voltage is shorted into the matrix. This happens if the &#039;lane change&#039; switch is attached in a stack on the flipper mech and shorted to the EOS switch.  In later designs the &#039;lane change&#039; was moved to be stacked with the flipper buttons (nearly as bad) or to a separate button which was a better design.  Be very careful if working under the playfield &#039;&#039;&#039;not to short the solenoid or lamp power into a switch&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It can be a lot of work to repair the damage done to the driver board, so be careful with you screwdriver and loose solenoid power wiring.  Most people who have been repairing games long enough learned the hard way, and won&#039;t work under the playfield with the power on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Switches===&lt;br /&gt;
There are a few switches that are dedicated, and not part of the switch matrix.  The coin door Advance and Auto/Up Manual/Down switches, which let you start diagnostic tests when the switch matrix is faulty.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, there are a maximum of 6 special solenoid switches, which directly connect to the solenoid logic on the driver board. When Williams first designed these games, they were worried that the CPU couldn&#039;t always &#039;keep up&#039; with the ball hits to the pop bumpers or slingshots.  So during game play the switches on the playfield fire the special solenoids directly from the playfield.  These usually include the spoon switches on the pop bumpers and slingshot stand-up switches.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All pop bumpers and slingshots have a secondary switch which is part of the switch matrix.  It closes when the coil is fired and tells the CPU to increment scoring and in some cases to trigger sounds for these devices.  The scoring switch is mechanically closed, by the &#039;elbow&#039; of the slingshot arm or by the bakelite yoke connected to the pop bumper ring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Confusingly, the CPU can also fire the 6 special switches from PIA lines for the diagnostic tests, but these PIA signals are never used during game play.  If all these solenoids work during diagnostic tests, but not in game play it points to the switch inputs or the 7408s at IC6/7.  It won&#039;t be the 7402s at IC8/9.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I have seen a game that worked in play perfectly, but the diagnostics could not fire two of the pop bumper solenoids during tests.  This was a Switch Matrix PIA with faulty output at pins 19 (CB2) and 39 (CA2), other than that the PIA was working correctly and so it could still be used to drive the Switch Matrix.  If a switch row or column went out, the PIA would then have to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;&#039;Here is a list of the PIAs and where the pins are that fire the &#039;special solenoids&#039; during diagnostics:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot; |Special Solenoid Diag. PIAs&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!ST# &lt;br /&gt;
!PIA&lt;br /&gt;
!CHIP&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin #&lt;br /&gt;
!Location / Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1   ||III ||IC10  Lamps     ||19    ||Middle PIA   on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2   ||III ||IC10  Lamps     ||39    ||Middle PIA   on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3   ||II  ||IC11  SW Matrix ||19    ||Right PIA  on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4   ||II  ||IC11  SW Matrix ||39    ||Right PIA  on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5   ||IV  ||IC 5  Solenoids ||39    ||Left PIA on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6   ||I   ||IC18  Displays  ||19    ||Via 1J1-26 on CPU Board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing the Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
To test the switch matrix in the game, first remove both Switch Matrix connectors on the top right of the driver board. J2 is Column (green wires) and J3 is Row (white wires).  Then run a switch test from diagnostics, you should get no switches being sensed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use an alligator test lead as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
* Connect one end of the test lead&#039;s alligator clip to the column pin, starting at column 1.  That&#039;s the bottom pin of J2. &lt;br /&gt;
* Then use the other end of the test lead to touch the appropriate row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
* Start at the bottom pin of J3, which is row 1.  You should see switch #1 indicated (R1C1).&lt;br /&gt;
* Move the probe to the next pin up on J3, which is row #2.  You should see switch #2 indicated (R2C1).&lt;br /&gt;
* When you got to the top of the row pins, move the clip end to COL #2 (up one pin) and start again with row #1.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Activate each switch in turn by connecting the appropriate 2 male pins on the CPU board with your test lead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using your switch matrix chart from the manual as a guide, you may find the faults as your game &amp;quot;sees&amp;quot; on the same switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you get an error in sequence, more than one switch registers at a time or you are missing a row or column - then you &#039;&#039;&#039;know the problem must be on the MPU board&#039;&#039;&#039;.  You can either try to fix it or send the board out for repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the above test works correctly, meaning all switches register correctly then your problem must be the wiring or on the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing the Switch Matrix PIA===&lt;br /&gt;
No section on the switch matrix is complete without mentioning the switch PIA.  That IC and 4 buffer IC&#039;s are the only logic in the switch matrix.  The complete instructions for testing all the PIAs are beyond the scope of this section. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only sure-fire way to test the PIA is with the &#039;Leon Borre test ROM&#039; in the MPU board.  You do this by taking the MPU and Driver boards out of the game and putting them on the bench.  This will also let you trace back through the circuit to find a fault more easily, and it&#039;s not as hard as you may think.  It will also exercise the CPU memory and test all the PIAs on the Driver Board, not just the switch matrix PIA.  Here are his excellent instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Leon_Borre_Repairing_Williams_System_3-6_CPU_Boards | Leon&#039;s Repair Pages for WMS System 3-6 games]] including a free test ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Leon_Borre_WMS_System_7_Repair | Leon&#039;s Repair Pages for WMS System 7 games]] including a free test ROM.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These Belgium guys are knowledgeable about pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Should any of the chips in the switch matrix prove to be faulty, be particularly cautious in replacing them. They have a greater than usual tendency for lifted traces and pads when desoldering. Heat rising from the lamp matrix resistors has a tendency to not only cause these chips to fail, but also to loosen the bond between the circuit board and the solder pads and traces on this area of the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix Components===&lt;br /&gt;
Final thoughts about components which make up the switch matrix. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The passive components:&lt;br /&gt;
On the driver board there is an RC network, made up of 16 x 4.7K pull-up resistors that you can measure with a DMM. Tolerance is not critical, but should measure between 4.5K to 5K which is about a +/- 5% range.&lt;br /&gt;
There are also 16 x capacitors (470pF at 50v, ceramic) these should not measure as a short, if in doubt just replace them.&lt;br /&gt;
And 8 x 1K ohm resistors at the switch inputs (rows) at R196-R203 these can not be open or shorted and must be around 1K each.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can see the above chips inverting signals with the game running and a logic probe.  Check if signals look weak or suspect. If you see a signal on the input side and then nothing inverted on the output side, then that&#039;s your problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |Beyond that IC15-18, which are the Switch Matrix inverting buffer / drivers:&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Inverting Pairs. Leg a to b listed as a,b&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch Row/Col Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Part Number /Eqivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC15 ||3,2 7,6 14,15 9,10 in that order ||Rows 1-4 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC16 ||3,2 7,6 14,15 9,10 in that order ||Rows 5-8 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC17 ||2,1 6,5 12,13 8,9  in that order ||Columns 1-4 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC18 ||2,1 6,5 12,13 8,9  in that order ||Columns 5-8 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot; |J2 (Column) and J3 (Row) connector pins: &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Connector&lt;br /&gt;
!Male connector Pins&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch Row/Col Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Location&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Part Number /Eqivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J2 ||pins 1-3 and pin 5 ||Columns 5-8 ||IC18 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J2 ||pins 9-6 ||Columns 1-4 ||IC17 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J3 ||pin 1 and pins 3-5 ||Rows 5-8 ||IC16 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J3 ||pins 9-6 ||Rows 1-4 ||IC15 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Except for the 6821 PIA which is getting harder to find, all the switch matrix components are readily available.&lt;br /&gt;
However there are acceptable substitutes on the market.  Any of the following part numbers are drop-in replacements for the 6821.&lt;br /&gt;
68A21, 68B21, 6521, W65C21N.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Wire Jumpers on System 7 Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ZeroOhmJumpersS3-7.jpg ‎|300px|left|thumb|A Williams System 3-7 Driver Board, retrofitted with wire jumpers at R04-R211, now called W9-W16]]&lt;br /&gt;
Williams removed some resistors from the switch matrix inputs and used wire jumpers instead. This happened from the start of System 7.  The first thing to do with a driver board (which may not be from that game) is to measure these resistors and make sure you have the the driver board set up for the correct game.  &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;While a board with wire jumpers can be used in System 4-6 games, using a board with resistors in a System 7 game will cause problems.&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;  Replacing the 330 ohm resistors with wire jumpers helps with switch sensitivity and with sensing more than one switch closure at the same time.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On driver boards from Black Knight and later System 7 games, there should be 8 wire jumpers (or zero ohm resistors) used on the switch matrix at positions W9-W16. These are located on the upper right hand corner of the Driver Board just to the left of J2, the top right connector which is the switch matrix column drive. To the left are two columns of 7 resistors each, the second column should be the wire jumpers, along with the top position of the next column to the left (column with 2 resistors only).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 4-6 Driver boards, (games like Alien Poker, Firepower and earlier SS games) were released with 330 ohm resistors (orange, orange, brown) in these 8 locations. Starting with Black Knight and later (System 7 games) they are called W9-W16, and are zero ohm resistors (usually a tan body with one black stripe). You can replace or jumper over them with wire leaving the resistors in place. In all other aspects the driver boards are identical, so it&#039;s easy to convert between the two. This is why they are usually known as &#039;&#039;System 3-7 driver boards&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before you start to replace parts on the driver board, be sure your playfield switches are working and the diodes are good. You need to unsolder one end of the diode from the switch to be able to test it correctly with a DMM on the diode setting.  While you are there, clean the switch with a business card soaked in naphtha or contact cleaner sprayed on the business card (with the game off, contact cleaner is flammable!) See if any blackness comes off on the card.  You can also gently wipe the contacts until shiny with a Q-tip or the corner of a clean rag dipped in isopropyl alcohol.  A pencil eraser also works well to clean switch contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Game Specific Problems and Fixes=&lt;br /&gt;
==Black Knight==&lt;br /&gt;
===Magna Save Performance===&lt;br /&gt;
There are 2 under playfield relays used to shunt high voltage to the magna saves. These are high voltage contacts and should be filed for maximum conductivity and power for the magnets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Magna Save Magnets Not Working===&lt;br /&gt;
If the magnets are not working in test or game, make certain that the white-red wire is tied to the ground screw in the backbox.  This white-red wire is fed from the relay coils, which enables each appropriate magnets.&lt;br /&gt;
===Fast moving ball flies through upper lock===&lt;br /&gt;
Mount a shooter lane bracket underneath the plastic of the upper ball lock trough.  With creative bending, all ball motion will stop on entering the trough.  The ball will drop down ensuring credit is awarded for the lock.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Ball Lock Scoring Bug===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a software bug in version L-3 and L-4 where instead of getting 5000 points with other balls in the lock you get 10,000, scored in increments of 5000.  There is no current fix for this; it may have been intentional for the additional score (usually picked up by another player) but probably an oversight by the original programmer.  There is a footnote in the operator&#039;s manual referencing this.  It is unknown what the original intention was.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Right Ramp Gate Adjustment===&lt;br /&gt;
It is erroneous to have the mystery rollunder gate score in one direction only; the switch should activate both going UP to the upper playfield as well as DOWN to the lower playfield.  It can be a strategy in multiball to let it roll down the switch, multiplying the mystery value.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Firepower==&lt;br /&gt;
===Firepower Won&#039;t Start a Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Firepower and other multi-ball games are infamous for being stubborn if there aren&#039;t three balls in the trough, or if one of the trough switches isn&#039;t closed.  Additionally, multiball games usually have a shooter lane switch.  If MORE than 3 switches are closed, the game will also not start.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My Firepower, in particular, is frequently upset if the right-most switch isn&#039;t closed, and that switch has an unusual actuator on it that doesn&#039;t work as well as a common rollover actuator. That switch is a little mangled, so it&#039;s the one that is most problematic. [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 18:12, 21 May 2014 (CDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Time Warp==&lt;br /&gt;
===Time Warp loses background sound occasionally===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a software bug in Time Warp where the background sound (if enabled) will go mute at ball launch.  This happens whenever the ball kicker launches twice, or when a ball drains without scoring any points.  There is a fix for this identified as Time Warp L-3 however it is not officially sanctioned by Williams and so is not readily available.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements=&lt;br /&gt;
==Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
* Displays&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://xpinpinball.com/product-category/xpin-displays/ XPin]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=dis326 Rottendog 6-Digit]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=dis079 Rottendog 7-Digit]&lt;br /&gt;
** [https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/williams-system-3-6-display-kit Wolffpac 6-Digit] (ships as a kit)&lt;br /&gt;
** [https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/williams-system-7-9-display-kit-orange-digits Wolffpac 7-Digit] (ships as a kit)&lt;br /&gt;
* MPU/Driver Combo&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 Rottendog] (no longer supports System 7 games)&lt;br /&gt;
** [https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-3-7.html barakandl] (supports System 7)&lt;br /&gt;
* Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=wdp3211a Rottendog]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms8345/ XPin]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NOTE: [http://pinballpcb.com/ Kohout Enterprises] has begun manufacturing circuit boards again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Repair Logs=&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Unreliable +5V==&lt;br /&gt;
A Firepower won&#039;t boot consistently.  It was reliable before it was moved in a box truck.  +5V supply measures low.  For some reason, I decided the problem had to be the diodes in the power supply and replaced them, which didn&#039;t help.  I replaced the +5V cap in the power supply, C16, and all was well.  (Thirty year old filter caps are all absolutely suspect.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once I had the cap loose, I discovered I could shake it and hear it rattling inside.  Presumably, the jelly roll of electrolytic was dried out.  Shaking it might have the internal components in the right place, but probably not.  A few miles in the back of the truck was enough to wreck it, more permanently before.  The game has been very well-behaved since replacing the cap with a new one. [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 18:12, 21 May 2014 (CDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Unreliable +5V, part 2==&lt;br /&gt;
All classic pinball boards rely on 5V logic. Most data sheets indicate 5V, +/- 0.25V. Always check the 5V on the power supply, AND on the MPU board. Note that there may be 5.2V on the power supply, but 4.8V on the MPU. This is too low.. small pulses can pull the 4.8 below 4.75 fairly easily and cause resets. If there is less than 5V on the MPU board, but the voltage is right on the supply, try checking voltage drops at each individual connector pin. One will usually find that pins will have built up tarnish, or heat has turned them grey or brown.. this is the tip off that the connector needs to be replaced. I know, groan.. it can be a pain, but replace the header in the circuit board. Make sure to remove or clip the key pin. Then replace the connector on the wires (female) with crimp and poke type. Use a ratchet crimper, and tug on them after each crimp to prove that they are good. Replace the wires one by one.. clip, crimp, poke.. copy each wire position from the original one one at a time, and keep in mind that the connectors have a ramp and go on one way. Replace and power up, and then go back to the meter, and verify that the voltage on the MPU board has risen..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CPU will not start==&lt;br /&gt;
This happens to involve a Type 2 sound board, but it could apply to an MPU board or a Type 1 sound board.  The reset pin voltage (CPU Pin 40) was low and would slowly climb after power on, but not enough to allow the CPU to start.  All components in the reset section were good, and replacement parts did not make any difference.  The problem was the sound board&#039;s PIA.  Its reset line was pulling down the voltage so much that the CPU would not start.  After replacing the PIA, the sound board booted and worked fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game will not come out of audit mode==&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 3-6 MPU will not come out of audit mode despite a quick power cycle with the coin door open, suspect a bad 5101 RAM. This probably also applies to System 7 MPUs but have not verified.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Controlled lamps issue==&lt;br /&gt;
Problem: (System 6 Flash) In attract (game over) mode the controlled lights were lit most of the time, just kind of flickering. But, they all worked during lamp test mode and would all turn on and off at the same time. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cause: The 5V regulator on the power supply board had failed and sent 12VDC to all of the boards. Part &amp;quot;X3&amp;quot;, LM323K&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solution: Replaced the 5V regulator. Had to then replace these parts on the solenoid driver board: IC10 (PIA, 6821), IC12 &amp;amp; IC19 (7406), IC13 &amp;amp; IC14 (7408).&lt;br /&gt;
Note: 12VDC on the 5V line could potentially cause any chip to fail that uses the 5V.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=American_Pinball_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=25838</id>
		<title>American Pinball Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=American_Pinball_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=25838"/>
		<updated>2026-03-10T01:57:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Games */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;For history of American Pinball see [[American Pinball]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Introduction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Manufacturer&#039;s website: https://www.american-pinball.com/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
American Pinball, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
1448 Yorkshire Drive&lt;br /&gt;
Streamwood, ILL. 60107&lt;br /&gt;
Telephone: (847) 893-6800&lt;br /&gt;
info@american-pinball.com&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Games ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Houdini]] || 12-2017 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Oktoberfest || 03-2019 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Wheels || 06-2020 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Legends of Valhalla || 10-2021 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Galactic Tank Force || 2023 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Barry O&#039;s BBQ Challenge || 2024 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Technical Info ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Game Code Updates ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game code updates can be downloaded here: https://www.american-pinball.com/support/updates/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a USB jack located near the service outlet in which a thumb drive loaded with the update can be plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Manuals ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Oktoberfest-Manual-new.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Assemblies Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Assembly.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/AP_Houdini-Service-Manual_091018.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hot Wheels Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2020-7/Hot-Wheels-Manual-7-13-2020.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Legends of Valhalla Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2022-3/Rampage-Manual-10-19-2021.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Galactic Tank Force Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2023-11/Galactic-Tank-Force-Game-Manual-(Version-1.0_October-2023).pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Barry O&#039;s BBQ Challenge Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2024-6/Barry-O&#039;s-BBQ-Challenge-Game-Manual_English_Production-Release-1.0_June-2024.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Boards ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; (PCB0021-01) on Houdini controls the Start Button LED (12 volts), Shaker Motor (12 volts), and Knocker Coil (48 volts). It can control a maximum of 7 devices.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
American Pinball uses the MultiMorphic board sets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P3-ROC CPU (PCB0002-00)&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 board &lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 board (PCB0004-00)&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED2 board (PCB0008-00)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Power Supplies ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The power supply which operates the coils is a Mean Well model RSP-750-48 (48 volts @ 15 amps, 750 watts). Jameco Electronics has it as their stock number 2172148. Some machines may have a Velika (www.best-force.com) model S-800-48 (48v @ 16.7 amps) power supply installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Displays ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Main monitor in backbox is 15.6&amp;quot; Monitor Assembly # MASM0026-00. It is an Astouch model A156-OPD01 which operates on 12 volts DC @ 4 amps. The Stage Monitor is 4.3&amp;quot; screen size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_Astouch_monitor.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Astouch monitor in a Houdini]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Speakers ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses the following speakers:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) midbass 4&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE005-00&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) midbass 3&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE004-00&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) tweeters 2&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE0003-00&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no woofer speaker in the bottom cabinet of Houdini.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_no_woofer.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Houdini does not have a woofer]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Flippers ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses Williams WPC style flipper assemblies. The flipper coil is a lugless type with a connector already on it so no soldering is needed. Just plug/unplug the coil. American Pinball coil # COL0003-00. End of stroke switches are normally open when the flipper is at rest and closes when the flipper is energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Cabinet Parts ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ball shooter assembly is the common Williams shooter housing and sleeve combo, but the housing is powder coated to match the game it&#039;s installed on. Coin door is a Happ Controls door with the four pushbutton switches much like a Stern Spike system door. Caution note: Houdini uses 12 volt dc coin door LED bulbs. Power switch and service outlet are in the normal locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_menu_buttons.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Coin door diagnostic/menu buttons]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems and Solutions ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Power Supplies ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_48v_power_supply.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Houdini 48 volt power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_service_outlet.JPG|200px|thumb|center|Houdini service outlet and power switch]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Solenoid Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Coil driver transistors are type IRL540N (N channel FET).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Switch Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Lamp Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== General Illumination Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Controlled Lamp Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Display Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sound Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses a Lepy model LP-168S or Lepai LP-168HA (sold by Parts Express) super bass power amplifier. Specs are 2 X 40 watt amplifier and 1 X 68 watt subwoofer output. Owner&#039;s manual for the LP-168HA is located here:&lt;br /&gt;
https://lepaiaudio.com/docs/manuals/310-308--lp-168ha-manual.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Lepy LP-168S is a knockoff (counterfeit) of the Lepai LP-168HA:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://lepaiaudio.com/counterfeit/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_Lepy_LP168S_amplifier.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Lepy LP-168S amplifier]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Flipper Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams WPC style flipper assemblies. End of stroke switches are normally open when the flipper is at rest. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A common problem is the flipper gets stuck in the up position. This can be due to a broken flipper return spring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-flipper-spring-set&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Pop Bumper Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses the black color Data East/Sega pop bumper assemblies.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Optional Equipment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These are some of the optional accessory equipment available for American Pinball machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Shaker Motor Kit # KIT0001-00 (plugs into &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; )&lt;br /&gt;
* Knocker Kit # KIT0002-00 (adds a real knocker, plugs into &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; )&lt;br /&gt;
* Add On Driver Board # PCB0021-01 (allows connection of accessory items such as shaker motor and knocker)&lt;br /&gt;
* End Of Stroke Switch Kit # KIT0004-00 (for Houdini flippers, corrects flipper problems)&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Power Supply Upgrade # MASM0132-00 (Houdini only, operates coils better than original power supply)&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Topper # MASM0071-00 (includes ac power adapter)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Bill Acceptors ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini comes factory pre-wired for 120 volt AC power Mars bill acceptors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest comes factory pre-wired for 12 volt DC bill acceptors. Use ICT model A6-25SCP-USD4-II.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game Specific Problems and Fixes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini weak or erratic odd feeling flippers: Early production Houdini machines did not have End-of-Stroke switches on the flipper assemblies. Order Kit # KIT0004-00 End Of Stroke switch kit.&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/collections/all/products/houdini-end-of-stroke-switch  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini coils are weak: Early production Houdini machines need an additional 48 volt power supply for the coils. Order kit # MASM0132-00 Power Supply Upgrade Kit:&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-power-supply-upgrade&lt;br /&gt;
Also install Houdini Coil Performance Improvement Kit # KIT0006-00&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Service Bulletins ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Scoop Adjustment: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/SCOOP-ADJUSTMENT.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Coil Performance Improvement Kit: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2020-8/Houdini--Coil-Performance-Improvement-Kit.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Dollar Bill Acceptor Fix: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2021-6/12v-DC-and-120v-AC-Dollar-Bill-Acceptor-connector.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Skill Shot Fix: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-5/Houdini-Skill-Shot-Fix.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Speaker Grill Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/Speaker-Grill-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Stage Door Servo Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Stage-Door-Servo-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; (for connecting accessories): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-9/Add-On-Board.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini EOS Installation (flippers): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-10/End-Of-Stroke-Switch.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Knocker Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Knocker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Power Supply Kit (48 volts): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/Power-Supply-Kit-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Shaker Motor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/Shaker.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Knocker Kit Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-5/Knocker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Power Distribution Wiring: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/Power-Distribution.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Shaker Motor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Oktoberfest-Shaker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Bar Door Not Working: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Bar-Door-Check.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Dollar Bill Acceptor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-6/Wire-Diagram-DBA.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Add On Board Wiring: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-5/New-Add-On-Board.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=American_Pinball_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=25837</id>
		<title>American Pinball Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=American_Pinball_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=25837"/>
		<updated>2026-03-10T01:54:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Technical Info */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;For history of American Pinball see [[American Pinball]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Introduction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Manufacturer&#039;s website: https://www.american-pinball.com/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
American Pinball, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
1448 Yorkshire Drive&lt;br /&gt;
Streamwood, ILL. 60107&lt;br /&gt;
Telephone: (847) 893-6800&lt;br /&gt;
info@american-pinball.com&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Games ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Houdini]] || 12-2017 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Oktoberfest || 03-2019 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Wheels || 06-2020 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Legends of Valhalla || 10-2021 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Technical Info ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Game Code Updates ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game code updates can be downloaded here: https://www.american-pinball.com/support/updates/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a USB jack located near the service outlet in which a thumb drive loaded with the update can be plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Manuals ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Oktoberfest-Manual-new.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Assemblies Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Assembly.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/AP_Houdini-Service-Manual_091018.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hot Wheels Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2020-7/Hot-Wheels-Manual-7-13-2020.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Legends of Valhalla Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2022-3/Rampage-Manual-10-19-2021.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Galactic Tank Force Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2023-11/Galactic-Tank-Force-Game-Manual-(Version-1.0_October-2023).pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Barry O&#039;s BBQ Challenge Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2024-6/Barry-O&#039;s-BBQ-Challenge-Game-Manual_English_Production-Release-1.0_June-2024.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Boards ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; (PCB0021-01) on Houdini controls the Start Button LED (12 volts), Shaker Motor (12 volts), and Knocker Coil (48 volts). It can control a maximum of 7 devices.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
American Pinball uses the MultiMorphic board sets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P3-ROC CPU (PCB0002-00)&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 board &lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 board (PCB0004-00)&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED2 board (PCB0008-00)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Power Supplies ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The power supply which operates the coils is a Mean Well model RSP-750-48 (48 volts @ 15 amps, 750 watts). Jameco Electronics has it as their stock number 2172148. Some machines may have a Velika (www.best-force.com) model S-800-48 (48v @ 16.7 amps) power supply installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Displays ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Main monitor in backbox is 15.6&amp;quot; Monitor Assembly # MASM0026-00. It is an Astouch model A156-OPD01 which operates on 12 volts DC @ 4 amps. The Stage Monitor is 4.3&amp;quot; screen size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_Astouch_monitor.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Astouch monitor in a Houdini]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Speakers ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses the following speakers:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) midbass 4&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE005-00&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) midbass 3&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE004-00&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) tweeters 2&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE0003-00&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no woofer speaker in the bottom cabinet of Houdini.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_no_woofer.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Houdini does not have a woofer]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Flippers ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses Williams WPC style flipper assemblies. The flipper coil is a lugless type with a connector already on it so no soldering is needed. Just plug/unplug the coil. American Pinball coil # COL0003-00. End of stroke switches are normally open when the flipper is at rest and closes when the flipper is energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Cabinet Parts ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ball shooter assembly is the common Williams shooter housing and sleeve combo, but the housing is powder coated to match the game it&#039;s installed on. Coin door is a Happ Controls door with the four pushbutton switches much like a Stern Spike system door. Caution note: Houdini uses 12 volt dc coin door LED bulbs. Power switch and service outlet are in the normal locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_menu_buttons.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Coin door diagnostic/menu buttons]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems and Solutions ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Power Supplies ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_48v_power_supply.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Houdini 48 volt power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_service_outlet.JPG|200px|thumb|center|Houdini service outlet and power switch]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Solenoid Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Coil driver transistors are type IRL540N (N channel FET).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Switch Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Lamp Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== General Illumination Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Controlled Lamp Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Display Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sound Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses a Lepy model LP-168S or Lepai LP-168HA (sold by Parts Express) super bass power amplifier. Specs are 2 X 40 watt amplifier and 1 X 68 watt subwoofer output. Owner&#039;s manual for the LP-168HA is located here:&lt;br /&gt;
https://lepaiaudio.com/docs/manuals/310-308--lp-168ha-manual.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Lepy LP-168S is a knockoff (counterfeit) of the Lepai LP-168HA:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://lepaiaudio.com/counterfeit/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_Lepy_LP168S_amplifier.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Lepy LP-168S amplifier]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Flipper Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams WPC style flipper assemblies. End of stroke switches are normally open when the flipper is at rest. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A common problem is the flipper gets stuck in the up position. This can be due to a broken flipper return spring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-flipper-spring-set&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Pop Bumper Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses the black color Data East/Sega pop bumper assemblies.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Optional Equipment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These are some of the optional accessory equipment available for American Pinball machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Shaker Motor Kit # KIT0001-00 (plugs into &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; )&lt;br /&gt;
* Knocker Kit # KIT0002-00 (adds a real knocker, plugs into &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; )&lt;br /&gt;
* Add On Driver Board # PCB0021-01 (allows connection of accessory items such as shaker motor and knocker)&lt;br /&gt;
* End Of Stroke Switch Kit # KIT0004-00 (for Houdini flippers, corrects flipper problems)&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Power Supply Upgrade # MASM0132-00 (Houdini only, operates coils better than original power supply)&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Topper # MASM0071-00 (includes ac power adapter)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Bill Acceptors ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini comes factory pre-wired for 120 volt AC power Mars bill acceptors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest comes factory pre-wired for 12 volt DC bill acceptors. Use ICT model A6-25SCP-USD4-II.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game Specific Problems and Fixes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini weak or erratic odd feeling flippers: Early production Houdini machines did not have End-of-Stroke switches on the flipper assemblies. Order Kit # KIT0004-00 End Of Stroke switch kit.&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/collections/all/products/houdini-end-of-stroke-switch  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini coils are weak: Early production Houdini machines need an additional 48 volt power supply for the coils. Order kit # MASM0132-00 Power Supply Upgrade Kit:&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-power-supply-upgrade&lt;br /&gt;
Also install Houdini Coil Performance Improvement Kit # KIT0006-00&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Service Bulletins ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Scoop Adjustment: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/SCOOP-ADJUSTMENT.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Coil Performance Improvement Kit: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2020-8/Houdini--Coil-Performance-Improvement-Kit.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Dollar Bill Acceptor Fix: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2021-6/12v-DC-and-120v-AC-Dollar-Bill-Acceptor-connector.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Skill Shot Fix: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-5/Houdini-Skill-Shot-Fix.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Speaker Grill Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/Speaker-Grill-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Stage Door Servo Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Stage-Door-Servo-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; (for connecting accessories): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-9/Add-On-Board.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini EOS Installation (flippers): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-10/End-Of-Stroke-Switch.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Knocker Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Knocker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Power Supply Kit (48 volts): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/Power-Supply-Kit-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Shaker Motor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/Shaker.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Knocker Kit Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-5/Knocker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Power Distribution Wiring: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/Power-Distribution.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Shaker Motor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Oktoberfest-Shaker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Bar Door Not Working: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Bar-Door-Check.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Dollar Bill Acceptor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-6/Wire-Diagram-DBA.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Add On Board Wiring: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-5/New-Add-On-Board.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=25037</id>
		<title>Williams System 9 - 11</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=25037"/>
		<updated>2025-03-17T16:00:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Blanking Signal Stuck Low or Pulsing  - Adding component info for System 9 */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms sys9 boardset.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 Board Set from Space Shuttle]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingBackbox.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 (nothing) Board Set from High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Boardset.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 11A Board Set from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Jokerz Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11b Board Set from Jokerz! (Note that power supply is a prototype)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sy11B Boardset.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11b Board Set from Transporter the Rescue]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11C_Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|System 11c Board Set from Rollergames]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams system 7 boardset was replaced in 1984 with the system 9 boardset, and then again in 1985 with the system 11 boardset.  Combining the driver board, sound board, and cpu directly onto one board eliminated several design deficiencies of the earlier 3-7 boardsets; mainly the 40 pin interconnector, and extra wiring harness inter-board connectors.  Larger ROMs could be fitted directly onto the boards allowing for more complex rulesets and sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 and System 11 board sets are not 100% compatible. With a fair amount of effort, a System 11 board could be made compatible with a System 9, but it is not worth the extended effort to change the jumpers. It&#039;s far easier to just modify the rom images so that they are plug and play when installed in a System 11 CPU. You can find them already on the ipdb. The primary differences between the System 9 and System 11 board sets are the sound system and rom space.&lt;br /&gt;
(add more info later)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As time went on, the System 11 board set underwent some changes too.  The power supply, sound board, and CPU / driver board have minor changes.  More apparent was the addition of circuit boards.  Starting with the 11a board set, a more complex sound board was added (System 11 sound boards are strictly background sounds only).  Later in the System 11 series, sound functions were partially (11B) or fully removed (11C) from the MPU, and eventually were solely handled by a dedicated sound board. Game-specific interconnect boards and auxiliary power driver boards were introduced in System 11B games.  The interconnect boards acted as a pass-through for switch, lamp, flasher, and solenoid signal lines and circuits. It also allowed circuits with different voltages to share the same power source by using current limiting resistors to drop voltages to the appropriate levels.  All general illumination fuses were moved to this board.  The auxiliary power driver board has the AC relay, which finally centralized the location of it.  Likewise, several fuses, beefier TIP36C transistors, and bridge rectifiers are centralized on the auxiliary power driver board.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|Strike Zone|| 1984 || 1916  || unknown || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light|| 06-1984 || 530 || no speech || || 5610-09563-00 || only a few were made with System 9 boards inside&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Space Shuttle|| 12-1984 || 535 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sorcerer|| 03-1985 || 532 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet|| 06-1985 || 540 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alley Cats|| 10-1985 || 1918 || Unknown ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[High Speed]]|| 01-1986 || 541 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grand Lizard|| 04-1986 || 523 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Road Kings|| 07-1986 || 542 || D-11197-542 (Background music only)  || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinbot|| 10-1986 || 549 || D-11297-549 (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tic Tac Strike|| 11-1986 || 1919 || Unknown ||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Millionaire|| 01-1987 || 555 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11298-555.JPG | D-11298-555]] (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|F-14 Tomcat|| 03-1987 || 554 || D-11298-554 (Used on 1st 5,000 games - Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound) / D-11581-554 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire!|| 08-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire! Champagne Edition|| 09-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
!Aux Power Driver&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big Guns|| 10-1987 || 557 || D-11581-557 || D-8345-557 || D-11583-557 || C-11762 || Uses D-11814 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Space Station]]|| 12-1987 || 552 || D-11581-552 || D-8345-557  || D-11813-552 || C-11762-552 || Uses D-11814-552 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Mine|| 01-1988 || 1920 || None || D-8345-1914 || None || None ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone|| 02-1988 || 564 ||[[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG | D-11581-564]]  || D-8345-557  ||  D-11813-574 || C-11762-564|| Uses D-11814-564 Flash Lamp Resistor Board  || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run|| 05-1988 || 566 || D-11581-566 || D-8345-566 ||D-12247-566 || D-12112 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Swords of Fury]]|| 06-1988 || 559 || D-11581-559 || D-8345-557 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-559 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Taxi|| 08-1988 || 553 || D-11581-553 || D-12246-553 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-553 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Top Dawg|| 11-1988 || 1921 || None || D-12246 || None || D-12313-1921 || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jokerz!|| 12-1988 || 567 || D-12338-567 || D-12246 ||  D-12247-559|| D-12313-567 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Earthshaker]]|| 02-1989 || 568 || [[Media:System 11 Sound Board.JPG | D-11581-568]] || D-12246-568 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-568|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight 2000]]|| 04-1989 || 563 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-585.JPG | D-11581-585]] || D-12246 || D-12247-563 || D-12313-563|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Transporter the Rescue|| 04-1989 || 2008 || D-11581-2008 || D-12246  || D-12247-2008|| D-12313-2008 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Police Force|| 08-1989 || 573 || D-11581-573 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-573|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Shuffle Inn|| 10-1989 || 1922 || None (assumed) || D-12246 (assumed) || None || D-12313-1922 (assumed)||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Elvira and the Party Monsters|| 10-1989 || 2011 || D-11581-2011 || D-12246 || D-12247-2011|| D-12313-2011 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats|| 11-1989 || 575 || D-11581-575 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-575|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mousin&#039; Around!|| 12-1989 || 2009 || D-11581-2009 || D-12246 ||D-12247-2009 || D-12313-2209 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Whirlwind]]|| 01-1990 || 574 || D-11581-574 || D-12246 || D-12247-574 ||D-12313-574 || Uses a C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board to control 5 extra devices || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11C===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Bally Game Show|| 04-1990 || 2003 || D-11581-2003 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2003 || Uses a C-13286 Sound Overlay Lamp Board || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pool Sharks|| 06-1990 || 2014 || D-11581-2014 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2014 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Rollergames]]|| 06-1990 || 576 || D-11581-576 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-576 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner|| 09-1990 || 571 || D-11581-571 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-571 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Radical!|| 09-1990 || 2015 || D-11581-2015 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2015 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude|| 11-1990 || 2016 || D-11581-2016 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2016 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Riverboat Gambler]]|| 11-1990 || 50007 || D-11581-50007 w/ 512K ROMS (assumed) || D-12313-50007|| || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball|| 01-1991 || 20009 || D-11581-20009 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-20009 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Documentation Errors====&lt;br /&gt;
* Error on the [[High_Speed#MPU_Schematics_Error_for_U21_.26_U22|MPU I/O signals for U21 / U22 of High Speed]].&lt;br /&gt;
* [[#Flipper_Circuit_Schematics_Error|Flipper Circuit Schematics Error]] in the manuals for High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Details for board and cabinet schematics System 9-11 games can be found in the game manual or parts catalogs. Some copies can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball] or on [http://www.ipdb.org/ IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Troubleshooting &amp;amp; Reference Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|69-8955 (April 21, 1986)&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-pinball-troubleshooting-reference-manual_16-8955_sys9.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet, High Speed, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
|System 9 games. Also includes Strike Zone shuffle alley game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|D-11581 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Parts Catalogs===&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Parts catalogs also had supplementary updates to add and replace pages as newer games were released after the initial release of the catalogs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1986-1989)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/rvsk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-blue-book_16-9064-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Black Knight 2000, Comet, Cyclone, Earthshaker!, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Jokerz!, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Police Force, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (1989-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/feme/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-red-book_16-9190-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Dracula, Fish Tales, Funhouse, The Getaway, Hurricane, The Machine, Riverboat Gambler, Rollergames, Slugfest, Terminator 2, Whirlwind, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/itjk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Bally-midway-parts-catalog-yellow-book_16-9147-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Atlantis, Black Rose, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Dr. Who, Elvira, Game Show, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Party Zone, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Supplementary service bulletin books were released, which included service bulletins that detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1989&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-Service-Bulletin-Book-1989-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1989.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone, Bonzai Run, Taxi, Earthshaker, Truck Stop, Transporter&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1990&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1990-service-bulletin-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1990.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner, Police Force, Pool Sharks, Rollergames&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1991-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude, Jokerz, Riverboat Gambler&lt;br /&gt;
|This book includes some WPC games&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 eliminated a huge issue with the earlier system 3 through 7 boardsets, the 40 pin interconnect between the MPU and Driver boards.  All circuitry previously separated into MPU, driver, and sound boards was combined into a single MPU board. Satellite boards were still used for displays, speech, and solenoid expansion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with &#039;&#039;&#039;Big Guns&#039;&#039;&#039;, Williams introduced another weak link into their system, the interconnect board. Initial implementations were used to disperse the general illumination between the playfield and backbox. The connectors on interconnect boards were prone to overheating and failure just like prior implementations. At the same time, flash lamp resistor boards were being used. These were created to collocate all of the flashlamp current limiting resistors, and eliminate under playfield flashlamp resistor boards, which had proven themselves problematic in the high heat, high vibration environment under the playfield. Resistors often desoldered themselves and/or vibrated so much that the connection fractured. Flash lamp resistor boards were only used on three games:  Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone. In addition to the interconnect and the flash lamp resistor board, the auxiliary power driver board made its appearance. The auxiliary power driver board housed all of the high current transistors (TIP36c), solenoid and flasher fuses (including discrete flipper fuses), the AC select relay, and the solenoid power bridge rectifiers. The auxiliary power driver board did go through some minor changes, but it was functionally equivalent through the last System 11C game.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Banzai Run, a more standardized interconnect board was created. This interconnect board merged the general illumination interconnect with the flasher driver board. Switch and lamp circuits passed directly through this board as a matter of manufacturing convenience. Later interconnect boards added 3 opto couplers to indicate when the flippers and AC relay were activated (the same circuitry as used in the flipper power section of the WPC-089 -1 Power/Driver board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest advantages of the system 11 board set is its ability to switch one set of coil driver transistors between 2 sets of coils/flashers. This is accomplished via a relay on a separate board called the A/C select relay (the A/C select relay was eventually moved to the auxiliary power driver board starting with Big Guns). The theory is that coils that are less frequently activated will be on the A side of the relay, and that flashers will be on the C side of the relay.  Most of the time during gameplay, the C side is active, enabling the flashers. If the driver transistor for the A/C select relay itself shorts, the relay defaults to the coil side, allowing the game to continue to operate in a reasonable fashion (usually the A side coils are the ball shooter lane, drop target resets, VUK - basically coils that don&#039;t need to be able to operate 100% of the time unlike a slingshot coil or pop bumper coil).  Data East&#039;s board set was essentially a copy of the system 11 board set, but Data East programmed it the opposite way, so that the flasher side of the A/C select relay is active by default. Data East games, when the A/C relay doesn&#039;t operate, just sits there and flashes lamps instead of playing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and early System 11 games do share a disadvantage with the earlier 3-7 board sets, they still utilize special solenoid circuitry. The pops and slings on system 9/11 games do not activate via a switch which is seen by the MPU&#039;s program which fires the coil. Instead, the switches directly fire their associated coils via logic gates on the main board. The main disadvantage with this system is that the solenoids fire continuously as long as their activation switch is closed. A locked on sling or pop will burn out components quickly. It is recommended to add a 1, 1.5, or 2 amp inline fuse to each coil on a directly fired system 11 game. Usually just the pops and slings are direct fired coils. However, other coils were designated to the special solenoids. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games did not use the direct fire solenoid switches. Switches on the switch matrix were used instead. To easily identify games which do not use direct fire solenoid switches, IJ18 on the MPU board will not have a harness connection attached to it.  Likewise, the slingshots and pop bumpers will no longer have a set of scoring switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One way that System 9 games differ from the previous 3-7 board set is that the special solenoids are not controlled by the CPU at all. In other words, the special solenoids are not pulsed during solenoid test, as the physical board architecture does allow for this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The software in system 9-11 games continued with the same machine architecture from system 6 and 7, except for the special solenoids as mentioned above. More ram became available, up to 2k, but no game used over 800 bytes. This is likely due to the lower cost of 6264 RAM than 6116 RAM as was used in early System 9-11 games more than any other reason. Additional diagnostics in the form of switch error checking appeared in system 11. Any switch not activated over 30 games (16 games for flipper switches) would cause an error to be called out at power on. The software was able to compensate for broken switches by designating another switch to perform the same function as the broken switch.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9MPU.jpg |300px|thumb|left|System 9 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9MPUFactoryMod.jpg |300px|thumb|right|These high frequency filter capacitors were added at the factory, and are normal. Their purpose is the snub high frequency noise in the Advance and Auto Up/Down coin door button circuits.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 9 MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a single version of the System 9 MPU in all System 9 games. A few minor modifications to the board may have been made, but it&#039;s essentially the same board for the entire 3 game run of Space Shuttle, Sorcerer, and Comet. The picture at left shows an early board that featured two inductors (copper wound coils that &amp;quot;smooth&amp;quot; DC power) at L1 and L2, adjacent to connector 1J17. Later revisions of the board used &amp;quot;zero ohm&amp;quot; jumpers instead, presumably to reduce cost.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUFront.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 10 MPU component side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUBack.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Williams System 10 MPU solder side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams released a single game using an MPU board designated &#039;&#039;&#039;System 10&#039;&#039;&#039;. The game &amp;quot;4-in-1&amp;quot; ([https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=4-in-1&amp;amp;sortby=name&amp;amp;search=Search+Database&amp;amp;searchtype=quick IPDB link]) was released in 1985 and is more like Pachinko than pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From the Internet Pinball Database:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;&amp;quot;This game is known in Williams documentation as &amp;quot;4-IN-1&amp;quot; but that name never appears on the game itself. A total of 100 games were produced. Each came with four interchangeable playfield overlays for the themes of Baseball, Poker, Football, and Soccer. The operator could change the overlay and Instruction Card, re-option switches, and have a new game in the same cabinet.&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11&#039;&#039;&#039; games used one of four different revisions of the System 11 MPU. The first version of the System 11 MPU was completely self-contained, able to make game sounds on the board. A simple background sound board was used to add some game sounds. Between the baseline revision of the System 11 MPU and the last revision of the MPU (System 11C) incrementally more of the sound processing and sound circuitry was removed from the board (not stuffed).  None of the System 11 shuffle alley games use a separate sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem11CPU.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early System 11 (nothing) MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingLater.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Later System 11 (nothing) MPU. Note extensive alkaline corrosion abatement, NVRAM install, and use of modern reset generator. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11 (nothing) MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This picture shows the early System 11 MPU. A later revision of this MPU, pictured at right, has an additional jumper W16 located between the 7 segment diagnostic display and the relay, and a 4.7K ohm resistor between the 7447 and the resistor DIP. The early PCB on the left has a trace routing error to the sound ribbon cable connector. If you use it with a later system 11A sound card you will get no sound because the sound card doesn&#039;t get reset properly. If you wonder why your High Speed doesn&#039;t beep when turning it on this one is also the culprit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11ZenerDiodeAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes added to the back of the System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were added to the layout of the PCB in subsequent revisions of the board (11A, etc).]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|right|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) incorporated into the board layout and stuffed at the factory on a later board revision. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows six 6.2V zener diodes added to the solder side of a System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were left off the factory silkscreen of the board. Later revisions of the System 11 MPU added them to the component side of the board. Their purpose is to protect the special solenoid switch inputs. Either a ZPY6,2/ZD6,2/1N4735A (1 watt) or ZF5,2/1N5234B (1/2 watt) can be used. This mod is purely optional. In reality the diode doesn&#039;t help much if you short the switch input with the solenoid voltage. In this case the diode and the 7402 are usually damaged and need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, if the System 11 (nothing) MPU is used in a System 11A game or later, pins 6 and 7 of the adjacent connector (J18) must be tied to the ground plane at the edge of the board. These pins provide the ground for the special solenoids. Without the modification they do not work. Some early System 11A pins might not need the mod. If unsure just check if a cable is connected to pin 6 or 7 in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A-PB.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A rare prototype System 11a MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11aTransitionVersion.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Blanking, 5VDC, and Diagnostic LEDs factory installed in a &amp;quot;transition&amp;quot; vintage System 11a MPU. The prior version 7447 (U48) and resistor DIP (U47) has been replaced with a 7407, discrete resistors and LEDs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11TransitionTag.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A prototype System 11a MPU with original label]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11a &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Prototype&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This MPU was only used in Pin Bot. It&#039;s actually a System 11 (nothing) MPU PCB layout, with the  7 segment LED display replaced at the factory with 3 LEDs as used in all later System 11 MPUs (11A/B/C). The latest trace revision of this board also has the ground mod (connect 1J18, pins 6 and 7 to board ground) allowing it to work in any 11A/B/C game without modification. According to a friend it was referred to by the name of 11a instead of 11A by distributors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A late production System 11A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11A MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11A MPU can be used in all System 11 games. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and possibly the amplifier section must be stuffed. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board. On early production system 11A boards, the amplifier section was fully stuffed, just like the original System 11 board. Later in the production of System 11A boards, the amplifier section was not stuffed, just like an 11B board. But unlike System 11B boards, the System 11A board still has the same switch section layout as the original System 11 MPU, making it easy to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 CPU Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11B MPU. Note that a large portion of the sound circuitry, including the TDA2002 amp, was not stuffed in late System 11A boards or any System 11B MPU boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11B MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11B MPU can be used in all System 11 games too. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and all of the sound amplification components must be added to the board. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11C.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C MPU. Note that none of the sound circuitry, including the 6802 processor and 6821 PIA, is stuffed in System 11C MPU boards. All sounds were generated by the sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11C MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11C MPU can be used only in System 11C games since none of the sound processing circuitry was stuffed.  It can be used in games prior to 11C, if the sound section is populated.  However, some of the components needed are rare and / or costly, and there are a fair amount to install.  If there is no other choice but to use this board, it is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU9211.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU004.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The RottenDog &amp;quot;MPU004&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU with sound section overlay]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;RottenDog MPU9211 and MPU004 Aftermarket MPUs&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU9211 (shown at left) was designed to support all Williams System 9 - 11 games. How well the board works across that great breadth of games is somewhat questionable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CVSD used on this board is a CMX639D4 produced by CML Microcircuits. It replaces the 55516 (or 55536) CVSD used at U3 on original System 9 - 11 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU004 (shown at right) was an earlier design thought to support all Data East and System 11 games. Again, how well the board accomplishes this for Williams games is questionable. A significant source of confusion on this board (like all RottenDog boards with DIP switches) is that the DIP switches are labeled opposite of traditional labeling. That is, set all switches to OFF for Williams games, ON for Data East games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDWilliams9211LaterRev.jpg |300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU, later revision]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A later revision of the RottenDog 9211 MPU included a second trim POT to adjust the balance between 1408 DAC sounds and 55536 CVSD sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Picture of the lamp column portion of the lamp matrix of a System 9 MPU board.  Note that the TIP42 drive transistors were removed from this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The lamp matrix is made up of two parts - the lamp columns (drives) and lamp rows (returns).  In most cases, the lamp row consists of eight 2N5060 over-current shunt SCR&#039;s and eight TIP122 drive transistors, while the lamp column consists of eight 2N6427 predrive transistors (WMS sometimes used MPS-A14 instead) and eight TIP42 or TIP42C transistors.  However, there are some instances, as shown in the pic to the left, where the predrive transistors for the lamp columns are 2N6548s.  It is unknown why Williams chose to use these transistors on occasion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The over-current shunt circuit on the lamp row (returns) works by sensing the voltage drop across the 0.4 ohm, 3 Watt resistor on emitter of the TIP122 driver transistor. If a short circuit is present in the lamp row, the short circuit current will result in a higher than normal voltage drop across the emitter resistor. This voltage will trigger the gate of the 2N5060 SCR, causing it to turn on and shunt the base drive to the TIP122 transistor. This will turn off the driver transistor and prevent damage due to excessive current. Note that an RC circuit consisting of a 0.1uF capacitor and 1K ohm resistor is present on the gate of the SCR. This prevents a false trigger of the over-current shunt circuit due to an initial peak current from cold lamp filaments.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Switch Matrix Explained=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System9SwitchMatrix.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The System 9 Switch Matrix circuitry, as found in the Sorcerer manual.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Description&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At regular intervals, say 1 every msec or so, the 6808 microprocessor scans the switch matrix. This is done by pulling one switch column to ground, then sensing the switch row return state. Each row on which ground is detected means that the switch at the intersection of the column grounded and the detected row ground, is closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Hardware Detail&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 writes the column data to the address location occupied by the 6821 at U15 on the board. This causes the 6821 output registers (PB0 – PB7) to propagate the data to a 74LS244 octal buffer at U45. The 74LS244 mirrors that same data at it&#039;s output pins. The data pattern on these output pins will have all bits set to logic “1” except one bit, which will be set to logic zero, or electrical ground. The ground is applied to the base of a 2N3904 transistor (which had been held high by a 4.7K SIP pull-up resistor SR8) where the ground is applied to the switch column (called switch matrix drives on the schematic).&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Closed switches connected to that column will then cause the normally high (via yet another pull up resistor, SR16) gate at a 74LS08 quad NAND gate (U51 and U52) to be pulled to ground. This NAND gate enables the circuitry to detect a switch closure returned via either connector 1J9 or 1J10.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 then “reads” the row returns by reading from the address space occupied by the same 6821 at U15 used to pulse the column strobes earlier. This time it reads 6821 registers PA0 – PA7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the processor knows which column it drew to ground, and it knows which rows were caused to be pulled to ground via closed switches attached to the column. From this information, the closed switches can be identified. Genius. Bania: “I&#039;m tellin&#039; ya Jerry, this switch matrix stuff is gold Jerry, it&#039;s gold!”.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch diode isolates the switch in the matrix. Without this isolation diode, multiple simultaneous switch closures will cause false returns and confuse the processor. A switch diode that is open will always prevent a switch from registering, in the same way that a broken wire or failed open switch would.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jumper Settings and Locations for System 9 &amp;amp; 11 MPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are charts of the jumpers on System 9 &amp;amp; 11 boards.  Rather than listing the boards by their platform (System 11A/B/C), each chart is listed by the numbers stenciled on the circuit boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10749-00 REV. C (System 9)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W2, W5, W6, W7, W9, &amp;amp; W12.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1 / W2|| Below U12  || Microprocessor Internal RAM Enable. W1 IN, W2 OUT when using 6802, reverse when using 6808 || U12 RAM can be removed with 6802 and W1 installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W3||  ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Left of U49 || Country jumper. Remove for German factory settings, add for US factory settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U5 || Along with W7, used to send +12V to opto rows   || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U5 || Along with W6, used to send +12V to opto rows  || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +12v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W9|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +5v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10|| Below U50  || Installed - sounds from CPU board can be played without speech board attached  || Typically not installed, except Strike Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W11|| Below U37 ||  Used when U19 game ROM 2 is used || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| Below U36 || Used to increase U20 game ROM 1 size from 2764 to 27128 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. - (Typically System 11)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, &amp;amp; W7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U48 || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. B (Typically System 11 - Referred to as Prototype System 11a in text above)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU    || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Blanking signal to input &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; of U48 LED decoder chip  || not present on first pcb revision&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12091-00 REV. - (Typically System 11A)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| Below U23 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12206-00 REV. A (Typically System 11B &amp;amp; 11C)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U25  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U25  || only 2K will be used from the factory&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs ||  Remove for German text, add for English text || This jumper is not used in games with 16 digit score displays. Instead, install the U26 and U27 EPROMs for country and game. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| To the left of U24|| Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W18 || Below U23 || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U23 || only 2K will be used. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W19 || Below U23 || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U23 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Combining the System 9 Sound ROM Images====&lt;br /&gt;
Pinside user, &amp;quot;Dumbass&amp;quot;, has created replacement System 9 MPU boards.  One of the new things that he implemented in the board design is a daughterboard that can be mounted to the main MPU, which handles the speech duties.  Therefore, the speech board with its sometimes problematic ribbon cable no longer has to be used.  However, the sound and speech chip code now has to be combined together on a 27256 PROM, which is used at position U49.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
The file [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732] is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[File:Pad.zip]]. Below is how the code should be concatenated for it to work properly.  It is very similar to what is done for the System 9 code to be modified for a System 11 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Space Shuttle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = 0000h&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sorcerer&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = E67Fh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Comet&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum =  F9CCh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Converting the System 9 ROM Images to work in a System 11 MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to create System 11 compatible ROM images from System 9 ROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The file &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;[https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[file:Pad.zip]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 CPU works out of the box with a 27128 EPROM at location U27. You may choose to double the ROM image, creating a 27256 image so that its size is consistent with the other System 11 U27 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove jumper W8 and install jumper W9 on the System 11 CPU to enable sound to work properly. System 11 controls the sound reset via software. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Space Shuttle=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sorcerer=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u21.128 + cpu_u21.128 cpu_u21.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u22.128 + cpu_u22.128 cpu_u22.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.732 + cpu_u20.764 cpu_u20.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.l2.bin + cpu_u20.l2.bin cpu_u20.l2.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.l2.128 + cpu_u20.l2.128 cpu_u27.l2.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sorcerer is the only System 9 pinball game using 2 ROMs which make things complicated for repair. You can use the cpu_u20.128 image in a system 9 CPU jumpered for Space Shuttle or Comet. If you install W12 and remove W11 the CPU will be jumpered for a 27128 EPROM. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Comet=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 /b    &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech 2532.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board Using 2532 PROMs (from Space Shuttle)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|System 9 Speech Board Using 2732 PROMs (from Comet)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The speech board used in the three System 9 games, Space Shuttle, Sorcerer and Comet is essentially the same as the speech board used in System 6/7 games. However the speech board was enhanced during the Space Shuttle run. Four jumpers were added to accomodate either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs. When burning EPROMs, make certain which style of ROM is used.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Early Later.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board - Left unit is from early Space Shuttle, right is from later Space Shuttle]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Only the early Space Shuttles use 2532 EPROMs from the factory. Later Shuttles, Sorcerer and Comet use 2732 EPROMs.  The later speech board is backward compatible. If using such a board, either 2532s or 2732s can be used for the first two System 9 games (or System 6/7 games), provided that the jumpers are set for the appropriate EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the speech board generating speech sounds, it mixes the sound and speech signals via the potentiometer on the speech board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsSystem11BackgroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Background Sound board as found in High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11197 Road Kings Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11197 Background Sound board as found in Road Kings]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsD-11297BackGroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11297 Sound board as found in Pinbot, fully populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11298 Pinbot Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11298 Sound board as found in Pinbot. This version only has U4 populated (U19 is not).  Uncertain why U19 is needed.  Note that the CVSD &amp;quot;lane&amp;quot; of the board is not stuffed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System_11_Sound_Board.JPG|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound board, not completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D-11581-F14.jpg ‎|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound board, completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated, with W10/W11 Jumpers. W10/W11 enable use of 512K sound ROMs as found in all System 11C games like Game Show, Dr. Dude, Pool Sharks, Rollergames, Diner, Radical, and Bugs Bunny]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-12238 Jokerz Sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:JokerzSoundBoardPinOut.png|700px|thumb|right|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only - Connector PinOut]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581SchematicIcon.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Use hyperlink at right to open D-11581 sound board schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581PartsDelta.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Parts missing from partially populated D-11581 sound boards]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Link to:&#039;&#039;&#039; [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|Schematics for the D-11581 sound board]].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The parts shown at right represent the delta from a partially populated D-11581 to a fully populated D-11581. *The value of R13 will vary between 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms) and 10Kohms. If R14 and R15 are 10Kohms, then R13 should be 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms). If R14 and R15 are 20Kohms, then R13 should be 10Kohms.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem11PSPreBigGuns.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Pre-Taxi Power/Regulator Board. This power supply has had the header pins replaced and the 5V filter cap at C10 replaced. Note that this board has the 20A fuse for the GI still installed. This indicates that it is an early System 7 board. The fuse and it&#039;s holder should be replaced by a wire in all System 9 and 11 games]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_B.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply - Revision B (Pinbot)  Note that the top fuse holder just below the large 15000uF capacitor is broken on the left side]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These power supplies use obsolete parts at Q1 (SDS-201) and Q3 (SDS-202). The PCB print was used from Black Knight through Swords of Fury, with slight modifications. Up until and including Fire!, Q1 and Q3 were the obsolete SDS-201 and SDS-202. Starting with some Fire!, the board uses an MJE15030 at Q1 and an MJE15031 at Q3. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-201 at Q1 may be &amp;quot;6557&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9057S&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-202 at Q3 may be &amp;quot;MDS60&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9058S&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlyWMSPowerSupplyTraceRoutingErrorCloseUpAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of the corrected trace routing error on a Fire! power supply board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply (High Speed) Schematics.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There was a trace routing error on the original Fire! power supply pcbs. WMS cut the trace and used a jumper to correct the error. This error was corrected in the PCB layout at the start of &amp;quot;Big Guns&amp;quot; game production.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_E.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS Power Supply - Revision E (Cyclone)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Big Guns and games after, the solenoid and lamp power power sections were no longer stuffed because they were relocated to the Aux Power board. The GI relay is also missing on these boards because discrete GI relay boards were placed under the playfield and/or behind the backbox lamp insert.  By doing this, specific GI strings could be turned on/off versus &amp;quot;all or none&amp;quot; of the general illumination.  This later board has the fuses only for display and 5V power. In a pinch, the unstuffed parts could be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Big Guns, 2 100mA (1/10A) SB fuses are installed just to the left of the power supply in the backbox. These fuses protect the +100V and -100V circuits against shorts. Not all games used 1/10A slo-blo fuses. Some games used 1/8ASB fuses instead. This may have been due to 1/8ASB fuses being more readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics for this power supply also list part numbers MPSD52 and MPSD02. The equivalent part number for an MPSD52 is a 2N5401. The equivalent part number for an MPSD02 is a 2N5551.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Regulator Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSPSSchematic1503015031.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Schematics for Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used from Taxi thru the remainder of the System 11 game production. &lt;br /&gt;
Note that Taxi used an early revision of the board. The placement of some of the resistors and zener diodes in the HV section of that board is different from later boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===50V Flipper Power Supply Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Williams50VPowerSupply.jpg|300px|thumb|left|50VDC power supply as used in System 11 (nothing) and 11A games (C-9939).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games all used the 50V power supply board as pictured at left. This simple board takes 48VAC from the transformer secondary and uses a 35A/400V bridge rectifier to produce about 50VDC. The voltage is smoothed somewhat by a 100uf electrolytic capacitor. The transformer secondary is protected from a short in the bridge rectifier by either a 4ASB or a 5ASB fuse. Be sure to consult the manual for your game for the proper fuse value. Never overfuse a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Power Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
At least two different revisions of the Aux Power Board were used in System 11B/11C games, pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Auxiliary Power Board from Space Station (D-11813-552)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 Power.JPG|400px|thumb|center|Auxiliary Power Board from Earthshaker (D-12247-568)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Interconnect Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Interconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Backbox Interconnect Board from Space Station]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Lamp Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Earthshaker]]&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board was essentially designed for ease of manufacturing and assembly.  When Williams ultimately settled on using the same unit in all games, (give or take some parts here or there), modularity was apparent too.  There was no longer a need to build complex, custom wiring harnesses between the CPU / driver board, backbox insert, and playfield.  The interconnect board remedied this issue.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanzaiRunInterconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Banzai Run]]Although the first four System 11B games, which include Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone use some form of an interconnect board, it wasn&#039;t until Swords of Fury when the interconnect board was used as a standard for the remaining System 11 games.  The interconnect for Banzai Run (shown on the right) is completely different from anything else used by any game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board used in Swords of Fury uses a different part number, D-12185-559, compared to later System 11 games that used part number D-12313-x (x denotes the game&#039;s model number). They are not interchangable. Swords of Fury and Taxi had lane change switches still mounted on the cabinet. With later games lane change switches were removed and two optocouplers at position U2 and U3 (connected to the switch returns) were added to the board. The circuit is essentially the same as was used in early WPC games and enabled elimination of problematic physical lane change switches from the game. Starting with Jokerz, the third coupler at position U1 is used by the game software to check if the A/C relay on the aux power board is working.  U1 transmits information back to the MPU as switch 2 on the switch matrix, provided that the A/C has energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The early versions of the interconnect board were located on the left side of the backbox and positioned vertically.  The more common interconnect boards were located in the backbox positioned horizontally, just below the CPU board.  The later board passes the following circuits:&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp general illumination circuits&lt;br /&gt;
*flipper power and ground&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp columns and rows&lt;br /&gt;
*switch columns and rows &lt;br /&gt;
*flash lamp power&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What differentiates the board from game to game are the resistor values used for the flash lamp power circuits.  In some cases, some of the resistors are left unpopulated and / or a zero ohm jumper is installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (C-8363)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 SS Sorc Master Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|C-8363 Early System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This is the same master display that is used on all System 6A and System 7 games and is used on most System 9 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (D-10749)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10749.jpg|300px|thumb|left|D-10749 Late System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This master display board was introduced during the System 9 run and is mostly found in some of the later Comets that were manufactured.  The major difference between this master display board (D-10749) and the previous master display board (C-8363) is the D-10749 board replaced the card-edge connectors used on the C-8363 with pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any System 9 machine that is wired with card-edge connectors to use a C-8363 master display board can be converted to use a D-10749 master display board by re-wiring to use pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the mapping of the connectors &amp;amp; pins from a C-8363 to a D-10749 to aid in this conversion:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!D-10749 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!C-8363 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 16&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-14&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 15&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-16&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 14&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-17&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 13&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-13&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 12&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-12&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 11&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-15&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-7&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-8&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 10&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 9&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 8&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 7&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-11&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 6&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-10&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 5&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 3&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-7&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-8&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 1&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-1&lt;br /&gt;
|D1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-2&lt;br /&gt;
|C1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-3&lt;br /&gt;
|B1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-4&lt;br /&gt;
|A1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-5&lt;br /&gt;
|D2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-6&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-7&lt;br /&gt;
|C2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-8&lt;br /&gt;
|B2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-9&lt;br /&gt;
|A2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-10&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-18&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-11&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-1&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-2&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-3&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-4&lt;br /&gt;
| +100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-5&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C.&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-6&lt;br /&gt;
| +5 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-1&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C. on D-10749&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 (Discrete Displays High Speed to Pin Bot and Banzai Run)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10877.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-10877WithAlternate7180.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|System 11 Master Display Driver Board with UDN7180 &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot;. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Aaron Gross&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right shows &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot; that replace UDN7180 chips, which were beginning to be become expensive and harder to obtain during the production run. The daughter cards use discrete transistors, much the same way as one version of the older System 3-6 Master Display Panel did. U9, U12, U13, and U14, originally UDN7180s, have been replaced on this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A (Millionaire / Early F-14)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11414-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A Millionaire Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB actually came out of an early F-14 where they were recycled. Millionaire had it fully populated with additional lamp covers. The mounting brackets for the later D-11610 display changed so if you get a replacement for your F-14 first check which one is used in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A/B (F-14 to Swords of Fury)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11610.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A/B 4 7 Digit Segmented Displays Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (Taxi and Police Force)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-2.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B Display Driver Board D-12232-2 for 2 16 digit segmented displays + one external connector for a 7 digit display]]&lt;br /&gt;
Taxi and Police Force uses a D-12232-2 master display with J4 ribbon connector stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Taxi and Police Force. You would need to add U3 (6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connector J4. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (all other WMS 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12232.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B/C Display Driver Board D-12232-1 for 2 16 digit displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11C (Riverboat Gamber)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-3.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C Display Driver Board D-12232-3 for 2 16 digit displays and 2 connectors for 7 digit jackpot displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
Riverboat Gambler uses a D-12232-3 master display with all ribbon connectors stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Riverboat Gambler. You would need to add U3 and U4 (both a 6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connectors J4 and J6. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display. This display can also be used in Police Force and Taxi.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B/C (all Bally 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Bally-L16-Display.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally left side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12502-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally right side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Other Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Overlay Board (C-13287)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlWindSoundOverlayBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams &amp;quot;C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board&amp;quot; as found in WhirlWind.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This relatively simple board was used on Whirlwind only to accommodate 5 additional solenoids (flashers or motors). The board logically sits between the System 11 MPU and the sound board, intercepting data normally sent directly to the sound board, and acting on that data only when specific codes are commanded. The board also relays data not specifically intended for it, on to the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Current Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS C-12493 High Current Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-12493 High Current Driver Board from Earthshaker]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The high current driver board was used on Earthshaker to drive the shaker motor. It was used on several other Bally/Williams WPC games while designated different part numbers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Space Station Opto Position Board (C-11872)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpaceStationOptoBoardC-11872.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-11872 Space Station Opto Positioner PC Board Assembly]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is unique to Space Station. The &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; at Q1 and Q2 (both 2N3906s) in the picture at left are clear silicone caulk used to dampen vibration on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Remotely Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Flasher Board Pinbot.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Flash Lamp Resistor Board (from Pinbot)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The earlier design of flash lamp resistor board was mounted under the playfield within in the vicinity of the flash lamp circuit(s) that were powered by it.  Each board had a maximum of 4 power resistors (2 per flash lamp circuit).  The higher resistance resistor is 330 ohm 7 watt, while the lower resistance resistor is 5 ohm 10 watt.  The purpose of the larger value resistor is to keep the flash lamp powered with minimal voltage.  This keeps the flash lamp filament &amp;quot;warm&amp;quot;, which puts less of a strain on the flash lamp.  In turn, it is supposed to extend the life of the flash lamp. The smaller value resistor is used as a current limiting resistor which allows the solenoid voltage to be supplied to power the flash lamp.  By powering the flash lamps with solenoid voltage, it eliminates the need for an additional, dedicated secondary transformer winding. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Centrally Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px heights=380px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Flash Lamp Resistor Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Big Guns Resistor Board.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-557(Big Guns)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:CycloneBigGunsFlashlampBoardD-11814-564.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-564 (Cyclone)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS_Space_Station_Resistor_Board_D-11814-552.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-552(Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were used on early System 11B games prior to the use of the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.  The board is located in a very awkward location.  It is screwed to the back of the lower cabinet. Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone all have this board in this location.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistors on the board &amp;quot;eat current&amp;quot; (limit current) since the 13V #89 flash lamps are wired to coil voltage (about 38VDC). When implementing this board, Williams chose to change the wire colors as the circuit passes through the board. Combined with the generally poor Williams System 11 documentation, this makes it tough to track down problems with non-working flash lamps. On the plus side, the wire wound cement resistors on the board do not fail often, probably due to the location of the board (resistor boards located under the playfield have high resistor failure rates due to heat and vibration).  However, they obviously can fail. If there is power at the flash lamp, but grounding the flash lamp transistor does not light the lamp, the associated drive transistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were abandoned after Space Station.  Flash lamp circuits and resistors became integrated into the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====A/C Relay====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early AC Relay.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A/C relay board (early design ie. F-14, Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A/C relay placed on aux power driver board starting with 11B games (later design)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Road Kings, System 11 games make use of what is referred to as an A/C relay.  The purpose of the A/C relay was to drive twice the amount of coils and flashers by using half the amount of drive transistors.  This process is commonly referred to as &amp;quot;multiplexing&amp;quot;.  Typically, if the A/C relay was at rest, the &amp;quot;A side&amp;quot; solenoids would engage.  When the A/C relay was powered, the &amp;quot;C side&amp;quot; flashers would engage. However, there were sometimes solenoids multiplexed with other solenoids.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, High Speed, which does not use an A/C relay, uses 8 discrete drive transistors to drive solenoids / flashers 1-8.  Pinbot, which does use an A/C relay, uses the same 8 discrete transistors to drive solenoids / flashers.  However, a total of 16 solenoids and flashers (A side and C side) are driven.  By employing the use of an A/C relay, the System 11 MPU / driver board could be used for many more years without a &amp;quot;drastic&amp;quot; redesign.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Initially, the A/C relay was located on a small circuit board under the playfield for System 11/11A games.  Likewise, this A/C relay board did not have Molex header connections.  Wires were directly soldered to the circuit board.  Once the Auxiliary Power Driver Board was introduced with the System 11B platform (starting with Big Guns), the A/C relay was moved to this board for all subsequent System 11B/11C games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the example of the A/C relay shown in the pic on the left, the only way to discern that the A/C relay is the highlighted relay board is due to the wire colors soldered to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode Board for Multiplexed Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board. As Found.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diode board as found mounted to the bottom of the playfield (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Diode board from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diodes from diode board moved to aux power driver board starting with 11B games]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Motor Control Board (D-12045)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12045.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams &amp;quot;D-12045&amp;quot; as found in Cyclone, Jokerz!, Riverboat Gambler and Diner.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in 4 Williams Games&lt;br /&gt;
* Cyclone ... for the random award wheel&lt;br /&gt;
* Jokerz! ... for draw poker (the wheel has various cards pictured on it), &lt;br /&gt;
* Riverboat Gambler ... for the backbox roulette wheel and&lt;br /&gt;
* Diner ... for the clock hands count time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board uses a single U-opto to detect the wheel at the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; position. The MPU implements an &amp;quot;open loop control system&amp;quot; stepping the motor to the desired position while assuming that each step was successful. The game flags an issue with the PCB/motor assembly when the software thinks that the wheel should be at the home position but the opto beam hasn&#039;t been broken by the opto interrupter on the back of the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Coils===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Flippers.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Serial wound flipper coils as seen on earlier (pre F-14 Tomcat) System 11 / 11A games (pic from Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Placeholder for Parallel wound flipper coils as seen on later (post F-14 Tomcat) System 11A/B/C games (pic from xxxx)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Parallel_Wound_Flippers.jpg|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for parallel wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later games (starting with F-14 Tomcat) used parallel wound coils, which have 2 diodes on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games use different parallel wound flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application.  Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |System 11 Flipper Coils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Color&lt;br /&gt;
!Strength&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11753 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weakest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11722 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weaker ||24-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11630 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Standard ||23-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11629 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Strongest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CoinDoorButtons.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Example System 11 Coin Door Buttons. The Advance button is missing it&#039;s black cap, and yes...that is a bit of soft drink spooge on the bracket.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The coin door buttons for system 9 and 11 games are shown at right. The function of the three buttons is (from left to right in the picture)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset High Score to Date&lt;br /&gt;
*Auto Up/Manual Down&lt;br /&gt;
*Advance&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Function of the Reset High Score to Date is self explanatory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Auto Up/Manual Down (AUMD) button is interpreted by the game software in multiple ways. Starting from attract mode, if the AUMD switch is up, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter audits and adjustments mode. If the AUMD switch is down, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter diagnostic mode. With the AUMD button in the up position during many of the diagnostic tests, the next step in the test will be automatically entered. For example, display test will display each digit on the display in turn. Coil test will advance through each coil. A particular step of the test may be paused on by pressing the AUMD button down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Advance switch moves the diagnostic, audit, or adjustment to the next step (or previous step if the AUMD button is down, except in diagnostic mode).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When in adjustments mode, the credit button is used to zero, turn off, or turn on features.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; One of the adjustment settings (adjustment 69 on High Speed for example) can be used to clear all of the game audits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of all diagnostic tests, the game will enter audits next, and then adjustments.  To exit diagnostics, audits, and / or adjustments, either advance until the last adjustment, or simply turn the machine off.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Transformer Power Selection Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 11 Power Selection Jumpers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys11 Transformer Power Selection.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Typical power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 115VAC (from Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11European220VSelection.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;European power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 220VAC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;1 - Black, 4 - White, 3/6 - Orange.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;Image courtesy of Chuck Sanderson&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Sporadic Problems in General - System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Headers.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Cracked Header Joints and Headers cut too deeply by factory on System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the previous Williams platforms, the System 9 platform is prone to cracked solder joints on the header pins.  Likewise, Williams&#039; board manufacturers had some tendencies to cut the header pins too short on the solder side.  By cutting the pins too short, the cuts partially go through the solder meniscus.  Cutting through the solder meniscus makes a solder joint less reliable, and it may prematurely fail over time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By having cracked solder joints and / or cut solder meniscus, sporadic issues may occur.  To resolve a cracked solder joint issue, the best approach is to completely remove the old solder, and add new solder to the joint.  Due to dirt and contaminants, simply adding solder to the existing joint is not sufficient.  If the header pins are cut too short, an attempt to remove the solder and new solder can be made.  However, in some instances the only resolution is to replace the header pin connector.  It is recommended to use a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-79.asp high quality replacement header].&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Rectifier Fuses====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Fuses_Added_Before_Lamp_Solenoid_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AdditionalFuses.jpg|right|thumb|400px|The updated schematic (from High Speed) showing placement of additional transformer secondary fusing for solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A design flaw carried over from the earlier systems was the lack of fuses between the transformer secondary and the bridge rectifiers used for solenoid and controlled lamp power.  In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game should blow. But that is not always the case. If the primary power fuse fails to blow, the wiring between the transformer secondary and the bridge becomes the fuse. The resulting melted wiring is not pretty!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For games before Big Guns, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp fuse installed (Williams opted to use an 8A normal blo, while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses). For games after Big Guns, an 8A normal blo fuse is already present between the transformer secondary and the controlled lamp bridge. As for the solenoid bridge, the addition of the auxiliary power driver board added fusing to protect this circuit. The 25V and 50V solenoid bridges were added to this board. Both bridges are fused with 4A slo-blo fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem in the Inkochnito Bridge Board.&lt;br /&gt;
Surf on over to http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate to the 12 position wafer connection====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-WMS-System11PSCN1Alternative.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The severely burned wafer connector at Data East equivalent of J1 here has been replaced with parts currently available. Pins 5 and 8 are not populated as those connections are not used.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 position &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector (CN1 or J1 for Williams games), can be replaced with currently available parts, shown at left. The original &amp;quot;wafers&amp;quot; are difficult to find and pricey.&lt;br /&gt;
Part number for the alternate connector is Molex 03-09-2121 or 03-09-2122. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply Missing 5v Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
If an aftermarket Rottendog WDP011C power supply is missing 5v, and other common causes of a missing voltage have been ruled out, then it&#039;s likely that the 5v regulator at U191 has failed. An available replacement is the Texas Instruments PTR08060 5v regulator from [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/PTR08060WVD Mouser] or [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/PTR08060WVD/1698955 Digikey].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply - Big Guns &amp;amp; Cyclone GI Comes On, Game Doesn&#039;t Boot====&lt;br /&gt;
If using the now obsolete Rottendog WDP011A power supply for Williams Cyclone or Big Guns, the +12v jumper may have to be moved from the bottom jumper location to the top. If a Rottendog equipped Big Guns or Cyclone turns on the GI lights, but the game doesn&#039;t boot, (only the 5v light on the CPU is lit), this is most likely the reason.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 MPU Jumpers===&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, jumpers on the MPU board do not require modification. The default configuration works for all System 11 game ROMs. However, there are 5 exceptions as follows...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W7 - Language Select Jumper&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
W7 is used only in games up to Cyclone. Games with 16 digit alphanumeric displays do not use this jumper. If installed, the game automatically reverts to English after losing the content of the RAM. If a different language is preferred, the &amp;quot;adjustments&amp;quot; menu provides an option to change the default language. Only a few early System 11 game ROMs contained multiple languages. For these games, if W7 is removed, the game generally defaults to German text. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games used language specific ROMs at U26 and U27.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W16 and W17 - Hitachi CPU select&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Hitachi6802.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A Hitachi processor, installed at U15, with W16 cut (lower right of pic)]]&lt;br /&gt;
The W16 jumper, on original System 11 boards, is in a different location and used for backwards compatibility with system 9 boards. There is no need to change it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 11A and later boards:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*W16 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U15, the CPU responsible for most game operation.&lt;br /&gt;
*W17 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U24, the CPU for the sound subsystem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These two jumpers are used to indicate the manufacturer of the 6802/6808 microprocessor since the clock circuit of Hitachi microprocessors is different from the clock circuit of other manufacturers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If U15 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W16. &lt;br /&gt;
If U24 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W17.&lt;br /&gt;
Otherwise, W16 and W17 should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Hitachi microprocessor can be used in System 9 and System 11 (nothing) MPU boards by simply lifting pin 38 out of the socket. Cutting the pin is not recommended since there may be need for that IC in another board. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W5/W6 and W18/W19 - RAM Type Select ONLY FOR SYSTEM 11B AND 11C&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C MPU boards provide the ability to use either a 6116 or a 6264 RAM at locations U25 and U23 (sound subsystem).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U25&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W5, remove W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W5, install W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U23 (sound subsystem)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W19, remove W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W19, install W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Removing both W5 and W6 from a System ll (nothing) MPU or from a System 11A MPU prevents the switch matrix circuitry from working correctly. One instance of this being done resulted in all switches reporting closure, counting backwards from 64 to 1 while in switch level test. Reference [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-switch-levels-all-active &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;this&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;] PinSide thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
====Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSClockandE.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|A scope trace of the 4Mhz crystal input at pin 39 of the microprocessor (blue), and &amp;quot;E&amp;quot;, the external clock at pin 37 of the microprocessor (amber)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Following is an ordered, disciplined process for reanimating a dead MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Inspect for Alkaline Corrosion. Abate all corrosion properly before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test for valid 5/12/-12VDC power to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify correct jumpers are installed (or not installed) for Hitachi 6802/8 processors. More info [[Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11_MPU_Jumpers|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
#Note and address any error messages displayed upon boot (if any).&lt;br /&gt;
#Validate the ROM images.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test socketed chips in a known working board or chip tester.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (4Mhz) clock signal to the 6802/8 processor at pin 39.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (1Mhz) external clock signal at pin 37 of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the reset circuitry is providing a valid &amp;quot;low and then high&amp;quot; reset signal at pin 40 of the 6802/8. Note that replacing the original reset circuitry with a modern reset generator will lengthen the time until the signal transitions to high. This is normal, and helps with debugging as the signal can be seen much easier.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to test for activity on the IRQ (pin 4), Address and Data pins of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to ensure that the following bus buffer chips are correctly mirroring the input signals to the output signals:&lt;br /&gt;
##System 9: U1, U2 and U3 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U23 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
##System 11: U11 and U13 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U16 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Leon&#039;s test ROM to ensure that each 6821 PIA is receiving the correct chip select and data to produce valid outputs at pins 2 through 17. More information regarding use of Leon&#039;s test ROM can be found [[Leon_Borre_WMS_System_9_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]] for System 9 and [[Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]] for System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Normal Game Boot Behavior====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Boot Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for System 9 is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the diagnostic display on the MPU. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will light during boot up, and continue to stay lit, as long as the game is on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Diagnostic7Segment.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 11(nothing) MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with a 7-segment display on the MPU is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the display. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; does not go away. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will continue to be displayed under normal boot conditions.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DiagnosticLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs as found on a System 11A, 11B, and 11C MPUs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with 3 LEDs instead of the 7-segment display on the MPU is for the &amp;quot;+5 VDC&amp;quot; LED to light first and stay on, then a split second later, the blanking LED will light and stay on. At the same time that the blanking LED lights, the diagnostic LED will begin to blink at a fairly rapid pace with a 50% duty cycle (equal durations of the LED being on then off). The blanking LED will continue to remain on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LEDDiagnosticsIn7SegmentGame.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs driven by game software expecting a 7-segment display as in High Speed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 11 MPU with 3 LEDs is installed in a game whose original board contained the 7-segment LED diagnostic display first introduced with the System 7 board set, the status of the 3 LEDs won&#039;t help much. The game software is attempting to display a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; (assuming your game boots correctly) on a 7-segment display. Since the board contains just the three LEDs, the MPU circuitry merely lights all three LEDs as shown in the picture at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====MPU Boot Error Codes====&lt;br /&gt;
MPUs used in System 9 and 11(nothing) games display a code on a 7-segment display if an error is detected during boot. MPUs used in System 11A, 11B, and 11C games use the Diagnostic LED to blink a &amp;quot;codes&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 9 MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U18 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6808 processor&#039;s ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Game ROM 2 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal stuck, coin door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or the U18 CMOS RAM faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;System failure. Occasionally, the following components can contribute to this problem: U21 (4MhZ crystal), components in the IRQ circuit, broken leads or failed C9 (22uF) in the reset section, or loosely seated ICs on the CPU board. Note that boot code &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; is the hardware default and characteristic of the CPU &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; signal not complying with the proper low-to-high spec at pin 40.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game is locked up, there may be a bad power supply.  The 5 volt logic supply is the first one to check.  Then, check the 12 volt supply, which is used to reset the CPU chip.  Test for both DC (correct voltages) and AC (too much ripple on the DC circuit).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11(nothing) Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 11(nothing) MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;These error codes assume that either High Speed, Grand Lizard, or Road Kings ROMs are installed since those were the only three games shipped with this version of the MPU board containing the 7-segment display. Later System 11 MPU boards replace the 7-segment display with 3 discrete LEDs that indicate 5V presence, diagnostics execution, and blanking status. While the System 11(nothing) MPU board works fine with other/later game ROMs, the 7-segment display with later game ROMs doesn&#039;t provide useful information other than some confidence that the software is running correctly. With later game ROMs installed and the MPU booting properly, the 7-segment display will appear to alternate rapidly between &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; (as fast as the &amp;quot;Diagnostics&amp;quot; LED would be flashing in a System 11A through 11C MPU board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U25 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6802 processors ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;, or the coin door is closed, or the memory protect circuit is faulty, or the CMOS RAM at U25 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;General system failure. Check the 5VDC power supply as well as the integrity of game ROM 2 at U26.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A zero displayed during Memory Chip Test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is NOT functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11A, 11B, 11C games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the number of blinks of the DIAGNOSTIC LED, the error message that might be displayed, and the explanation (Source: Williams System 11A game manual. with embellishment).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating an MPU indicating a U10 failure (8 blinks) can be found [https://youtu.be/Rhho5nO3YLU &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Message&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;no message || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U25 RAM FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;The RAM at U25 could not be used properly. This means that the RAM failed a read/write test at power up.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;The game will remain in the current state and no other tests are performed until the game is turned off, then back on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;MEM. PROT. FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;This message means that either:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;a) the Coin Door may be shut,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;b) the Memory Protect Switch may be stuck in the ON position,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;c) the memory protect logic is protecting the memory, or&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;d) a U25 RAM failure is occurring.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U51 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U51 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U38 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U38 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U41 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U41 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U42 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U42 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U54 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U54 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U10 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U10 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;IRQ FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The interrupt request line is not working normally. It may be missing, stuck, too fast, or too slow.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 failed checksum (test 11 is skipped).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 failed checksum.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of the above failures (except #9) may mean that the device has failed but it may also mean that the 6802 microprocessor is unable to communicate adequately or properly with the device. For example, if the CPU is attempting to checksum the game ROM at U27, but one of the 8 data lines leading to U27 has been severed, the wrong data will be received by the microprocessor and the checksum test will fail even though the ROM is perfectly fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An U25 RAM failure can occur without actual 6116 RAM failure.  One of the most common reasons why U25 RAM failure occurs is lack of power to the RAM chip.  If the D1, 1N5817, diode shorts open, logic power will no longer have a pathway to the U25 RAM.  However, if the D2, 1N4148, blocking diode is fine, and the battery holder and batteries are fine, power will be retained by the U25 RAM.  Although, the batteries will die prematurely if D1 has shorted.  Another reason why U25 is no longer powered by the +5VDC logic power is due to a severed trace either caused by a blunt object or battery corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An interesting side effect to the U25 RAM failure blink code is that the blanking LED will blink 10 times after the single blink from the diagnostic LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== U51, U27, and possibly other boot message causes =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SocketWornOut.jpg|300px|thumb|left|This OEM System 11 MPU socket is tired, worn out, and no longer provided solid contact with the ROM chip legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 MPUs booting with error codes, blinks, or messages on the display may need new sockets for the game ROM(s). In the picture at left, it&#039;s easy to see light right through the socket holes (note the brown background vs the white background). The metal female connections have fatigued over time and are no longer providing a solid mechanical connection to the ROM chip legs. Removal and replacement with a quality dual wipe or machine pin socket is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This situation can cause a wide variety of boot problems including complete failure to boot, &amp;quot;U27 ROM failure&amp;quot; message, &amp;quot;U51 failure&amp;quot; message, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, the root cause could be due to many other reasons. The fairly complicated chip select logic outlined on sheet 4 of the System 11 MPU schematics could be the cause. The best way to attack the problem is with a logic probe, ensuring that the various chip select gates are yielding the intended logic states.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Five &amp;quot;Knocks&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes when turning a system 11 game on, the knocker will fire 5 times, causing most folks to wonder, &amp;quot;what the hey&amp;quot;?. All that knocking is designed to call the operators attention to a potential switch issue. Like the &amp;quot;credit dot&amp;quot; in later Williams games, including System 11 games that support the dot character, these 5 knocks mean that the game hasn&#039;t detected the closure of a particular switch (or switches) in a certain number of games. A message will be displayed indicating which switch or switches to examine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Usually, this is an indication of a failed switch. Most switches get closed during the normal course of game play, long before the game&#039;s software counts up to the limit of &amp;quot;games played without closing each switch&amp;quot; and issues this indication. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this issue, use the coin door diagnostic panel buttons to enter switch edge test. Manually close the switch. If a switch closure is indicated, either normal game play failed to close the switch (you&#039;re not a very good player), or the switch is dirty. Closing a switch with your finger is different than closing a switch with a ball. Your finger generally pushes more firmly on the switch contacts. Clean the switch by dragging an old business card or piece of paper between the switch contacts while pinching the switch blades together with your fingers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Caution: do not attempt to adjust switches with anything metal while the game is turned on. You will eventually short coil or lamp power to the switch matrix, damaging the MPUs switch matrix circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If closing the switch manually doesn&#039;t register in switch edge test, see the &amp;quot;switch problems&amp;quot; section of this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AdjustFailureMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door closed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message seen in the picture at left occurs when the game software can&#039;t make sense of the information contained in the battery backed RAM at U25. This could be because the RAM has failed, but this is unlikely. The vastly more common reason is that battery backup power has been interrupted to the games battery backed RAM because either the batteries are not installed, dead, or dying. Hopefully, they haven&#039;t made a mess of the board by leaking alkaline. See below. &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; is displayed under these conditions when the coin door is closed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that on some games (not certain if all) which use two 16-digit alpha-numeric displays, the message displayed will actually read &amp;quot;AJSTMENT FAILURE&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FactorySettingMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door open.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the coin door is open under these conditions, the message &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; is displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Testing for Battery Backup Power at the RAM =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U25_Ram_Test.jpg|300px|thumb|right|System 11: Game off. Meter set to DC volts. Black lead on game ground. Red lead on RAM pin 24.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing for power at the RAM chip is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The CMOS RAM chip is located at U18 for System 9 and U25 for System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Set DMM to DC volts (or on less than 20V if not using an auto-ranging meter)&lt;br /&gt;
#Game off&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead on backbox ground&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on pin 24 of the RAM as shown at right&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three AA batteries normally provide 4.5VDC. If you are reading some voltage, but not quite 4.5VDC, the batteries need to be replaced...and don&#039;t forget to move them off of the MPU board while you are at it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other causes for low or no battery backup power to the RAM chip are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode at D3 for System 9 or D2 for System 11 - This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC source from &amp;quot;charging&amp;quot; the alkaline batteries. This diode is a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode at D2 for System 9 or D1 for System 11 - This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC battery backup power from powering parts of the board other than the RAM chip. In this case, the batteries will deplete rapidly. This diode is a 1N5817.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 9 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U41, U9, the game ROMs, and one or more 6821s.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 11 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U11, U31, U34, U35, U36, U44, the game ROMs, and possibly the 6821s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating the repair of a System 9 MPU that was damaged in this way can be found [https://youtu.be/uoYKRJFnm-I &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:PinSideLogo.png]] An excellent disciplined approach to repairing a System 11 MPU damaged in this way can be found on PinSide [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-fried-my-system-11-cpu-board-now-what#post-7564730 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
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==== Relocating the battery from the System 9 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Yikes! What a pity...]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3 AA batteries used to retain settings across power cycles to a location far away from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; in the credit/match display is seen when the game is turned on, the game is in audit mode versus attract mode.  Below are several reasons why the game has defaulted to audit mode.&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing.&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the U18 (5517-2) RAM. Check pin 24 of U18 for approximately 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v with the power off.  Lack of battery backup power could also be due to an open D3 (1N4148) blocking diode.  This diode is used to keep the CPU&#039;s logic power from charging the batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking diode D2 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There are other problems, such as a faulty 5517-2 RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries will not allow a game to boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on.  It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores.  However, a System 9 game will boot, and is still playable with the lack of batteries.  To complete the boot sequence into attract mode, open the coin door, switch the game off, and then quickly back on. The game should leave audit mode, and go into attract mode.  Credits would need to be added from the coin door, and if necessary, settings would need to be changed before starting a game.&lt;br /&gt;
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The best option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
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Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea.  You can easily remove the battery pack from the board.  Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement.  If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position.  Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead.  This will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D3 on the MPU board fails.  Keep in mind that adding a secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory by .5 to .7 volts (the typical voltage drop across a diode) if D3 is still good.  Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 remote bat.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 9 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board.  All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; are somewhat common.  Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save you some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS Sys9 D2 D3.JPG|300px|thumb|left|D2 and D3 Diodes Highlighted on a Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D3 blocking diode.  An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective.  Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack.  This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on.  Alkaline batteries do not like being charged.  They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly).  In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged.  Testing the D3 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out.  When in doubt, replace the D3 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack.  Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5517-2 RAM memory, if D3 is still good.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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==== Relocating the battery from the System 11 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RemoteBatteryHolderSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A remote battery holder installed on a System 11 MPU. The purple wire is positive.]]&lt;br /&gt;
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==== Installing NVRAM instead of batteries ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM DIP.JPG|300px|thumb|left|RAMTRON DIP NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Cyclone)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM SMT Adapter.JPG|300px|thumb|right|SMT adapted NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Transporter The Rescue)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like most other pinball mpu boards, the battery-backed RAM can be replaced with a non-volatile memory RAM (NVRAM).  Replacement RAM that can replace existing 6116 or a 6264 SRAM will be needed.  DIP versions are becoming scarce, but there are other solutions available that use surface mount equivalents on a small circuit board that plug into the RAM&#039;s socket.  Unfortunately, U25 is soldered in on System 11 boards from the factory, and would need to be removed to replace with NVRAM.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If installing any version of 6264 NVRAM on an 11B or 11C board, jumper W5 (located just above U25) needs to be moved to jumper W6.  This jumper has a completely different purpose on 11 and 11A boards.  6116 NVRAM will have to be used with 11 and 11A boards, or else modification with wire wrap will be necessary.  If 6116 NVRAM is used on 11B or 11C boards, jumper W5 does not have to be chaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several vendors who sell surface mount NVRAM on an adapter board.  The adapter in the picture shown on the right was purchased from [http://www.pinitech.com/products/cat_memory.php Pinitech].&lt;br /&gt;
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It has been documented that some variants of DIP NVRAM may need to have diode D1 replaced with a jumper or jumped around the diode, in order for the game to boot successfully.  D1, a 1n5817 diode, has a very low forward voltage drop (about 0.2 volts) vs. the normal 0.4-0.6 volts most other diodes have.  If replacing U25 with the memory RAM, some memory RAM will not unlock and allow writes until the voltage is 4.8 volts or so.  The 1n5817 D1 diode is just enough to prevent some memory RAMs from allowing writes.  To solve this, solder a jumper wire around the D1 terminals, or remove D1 entirely and replace with a jumper.  Surface mounted NVRAM on an adapter board is not susceptible to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Installing a Memory Capacitor Instead of Batteries====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11B Mem Cap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Memory Capacitor Added to a System 11B MPU Board.  The circled areas show an added jumper for the cap&#039;s negative terminal to ground and a jumper added in place of the blocking diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SuperCapInstalled.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method of adding a SuperCap. This style cap has two leads on the bottom of the cap. The negative lead of the cap is connected to battery ground via the red jumper wire. The necessary jumper across D2 is circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor. In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is greatly reduced compared to a rechargeable battery. When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor. When the game is turned off (this is where the memory cap slightly differs than a rechargeable battery) the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time. Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again. If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a memory cap, two things will have to be done. It will be necessary to add a jumper to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground or positive lead to the non-banded side of the blocking diode. The picture to the left shows a jumper added to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 11B MPU board. Installation on System 11, 11A, and 11C boards is similarly performed.  Secondly, the 1N4148 blocking diode (D2) will have to be removed, and replaced by current limiting resistor.  A value from 100 ohms to 270 ohms will work.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, it is a good idea to leave the game on for 15-20 minutes to allow the game to initially charge the capacitor to full capacity. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes to allow the cap to recharge is a good idea.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Both photos show a jumper installed in place of the blocking diode.  It is recommended that a limiting resistor be installed instead.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:  It has been determined that memory capacitors are not the most effective way to retain memory on System 11 games, if the game will not be turned on for long lengths of time.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MPUDelicateTraces.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of the delicate traces under the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. Luckily, these cleaned up nicely.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CorrosionCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Closeup of traces under the battery holder. Corrosion (darkened spots) has invaded beneath the solder mask (green coating) and is beginning to eat away at the copper traces.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen at left, the traces on System 11 MPUs are very small. Not much alkaline damage is required to eat completely through these delicate traces. Unfortunately, there are a great many of these traces under the battery holder, and in a very vulnerable position to alkaline damage. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to the left of the battery holder is the reset section of the MPU. That section is, on balance, much easier to repair than the delicate traces under the battery holder and at the 6821 PIAs immediately under the battery holder.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The advice often dispensed to deal with alkaline corrosion is to scrub the affected area with an acid such as vinegar, rinse with water, and then rinse again with isopropyl alcohol. This might work for light surface alkaline corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, often the alkaline will eat into traces beneath the solder mask or beneath chips. This dictates desoldering affected chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces. The alkaline interacts chemically with the solder making it very difficult to heat. Desoldering from the (presumably undamaged) back side of the board is much easier. Scuffing the alkaline damaged solder with a wire brush to remove the surface layer of damage is also helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once all damaged components have been removed, sand the affected area carefully with your choice of fine grit sandpaper. 220 grit works well. The objective is to remove the corrosion completely without destroying additional traces. All corroded areas must be addressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, rebuild traces as necessary. Corrosion tends to sever traces where the trace meets the solder pad of a part. Strong magnification and bright lighting helps. Either tin or conformal coat the bare copper and then reinstall parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11AlkalineDamage-1-Annotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Another closeup of the delicate traces near the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. These traces are too far gone for a repair to be considered reliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingSRCPartsSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A 9 pin, 4.7K bussed resistor network replacing SRC5. Pin 1 is on the right]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AlkalineCorrosion.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of alkaline damage that has crept under the solder mask (the darker traces). Eventually, this corrosion will eat completely through the trace, making the board unreliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TypicalSRC.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The OEM resistor/capacitor network.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the top of the board are a few &amp;quot;SRC&amp;quot; parts. These are 10 pin resistor/capacitor SIPs. The OEM part connects each driver line to a 4.7Kohm pull-up resistor connected to 5VDC. This guarantees that the signal is held at logic high until the PIA grounds the signal. The OEM part also connects each driver line to a high frequency noise filter capacitor (470pf). These parts are no longer available. A completely acceptable substitute is a 9 pin bussed, 8 resistor network (4.7Kohms) at positions SRC1 - SRC5 and SRC7 - SRC9. This part provides the pull-up resistor. In practice, the high frequency filter capacitor does not impact the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The part is installed as shown in the picture at right, with pin 1 of the part connected to the right side which is labeled pin 1 in the board silkscreen. A 10 pin (9 bussed resistors) part may be used ONLY if the left most pin is clipped and not connected to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
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An image of the original OEM part is shown at right.&lt;br /&gt;
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Another example of alkaline corrosion can be seen in the picture on the left. This damage can be cleaned up, retinned, and the board placed back in service.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Blanking Signal Stuck Low or Pulsing====&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking signal is a failsafe interlock with critical game functions including the display, sounds, lamp matrix, and solenoids. It prevents operation of each of these game features to protect the game circuitry in the event of a system failure. For instance, if the MPU is not running, and the lamp matrix is stuck on at a particular row or column, those parts will heat up quickly, and at the very least damage that circuitry. Coils remaining locked on could cause even larger damage to the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the game functions listed above require the blanking signal to be high (&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not pulsing but always high&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;) to operate. As an example, the solenoid driver circuitry logically &amp;quot;ands&amp;quot; the blanking signal with solenoid commands using a 7408 AND gates (at U17, U18, U19 and U20 for System 11 or at U56, U57, U60, and U61 for System 9).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of blanking, with the blanking LED never lighting, means that the game program is not running. It either never started running, locked up due to an invalid ROM image or a problem with the data, address, control, or chip select signals on the MPU, or detected a problem with the RAM memory.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System11Blanking.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|C58, a timing element for the 555 timer. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In rare cases, C58 can fail (C12 for System 9). C58 holds the input to the 555 timer high between pulses from the display circuitry. This causes the blanking signal to pulse. A pulsing blanking signal can manifest in missing digits on the display, some lamp columns not being turned on, and possibly other issues. C58 is a 1uf tantalum capacitor. If the blanking signal is pulsing, replace C58.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMSSystem11Blanking.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 CPU Blanking Circuit. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will update the displays by sending data to the display 6821 PIA at U51 for System 11 (and U5 for System 9) at regular intervals (every 2.8 msec).&lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 to pulse high periodically. The DE schematics call this signal &amp;quot;TG&amp;quot;. It is merely called &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; in WMS schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at U36 (U41 for System 9), in at pin 13, out at pin 12 (in at pin 11 and out at pin 10 for System 9).&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C57 (C15 for System 9) can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q50 (Q6 for System 9) and to pin 2 of the 555 timer at 1C.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 555 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at U51 for System 11 (and U5 for System 9), the output of the 555 timer at pin 3 (and 7) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the longer, more detailed explanation, [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb75.pdf Stern service bulletin 75] provides the &amp;quot;Blanking Circuit Theory of Operation&amp;quot; for Data East MPUs which are identical to Williams MPUs with respect to the blanking circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When operating properly, the pins of the 555 timer will behave as follows (pin number, logic signal)&lt;br /&gt;
#low&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing at the same rate as the 6821 PIA at U51 for System 11 (U5 for System 9), pin 4&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing very rapidly. i.e. &amp;quot;ticking&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair Leon&#039;s System 11 test ROM] runs correctly on an MPU, this guarantees that all data, address, and control signals are working correctly. If blanking doesn&#039;t go high with a game ROM installed, ensure that the ROM images are valid. This is by far the most probable once Leon&#039;s ROM runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
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====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (System 9)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetGenerator.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 9 MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9ResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator on a System 9 MPU.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The three electrolytic caps (all 100uf/25V), two inductors, and 5 ceramic caps (all .001uf labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;) are part of the 5, 12, and -12 volt power filtering circuitry. The D2, 1N5817 diode isn&#039;t needed if an NVRAM is used instead of a SuperCap or remote batteries.  However, a jumper must be installed at D2 to power the NVRAM.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset section of the System 9 MPU is almost identical to the System 11 reset section. As such, a modification similar to the mod outlined below can be performed on System 9 boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove resistors R6, R8, and R12. Really, all but R6 can simply be clipped off. One through hole at R6 will be used later.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove transistor Q4&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a reset generator (MCP120-460GI/TO) where Q4 was removed. Orient the reset generator the same way that Q4 was oriented, matching the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper from the upper leg of where R6 was removed (oriented as shown in the picture, upside-down from game installation) to the via that is about 1/4&amp;quot; southeast of the R6 connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it. Most of the rest of the reset circuit can be removed, but this provides no advantage since those parts are already &amp;quot;out of circuit&amp;quot; with this modification.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary to power the sound amplifier on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetMinimum.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Another image of the bare minimum part requirement when using a modern reset generator. The three electrolytic caps are all 100uf/25V. Note that the right most electrolytic cap is oriented backwards from the other two. The 5 ceramic caps are all .001uf and are labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;. These are sometimes called 1000pf ceramic caps.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MCP130 reset generator variant, with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used too, but it isn&#039;t necessary. This is because the resistor at R170 provides an external 4.7K ohm pull up for the /RESET line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the reset generator has a longer reset delay than the OEM circuitry. At boot, the 7 segment LED will seem to show a &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; for a fraction of a second. It will turn to a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and remain &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; after that, assuming that the board is booting properly.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System9Inductor1.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumpers&amp;quot; where inductors are normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor2.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; where an inductor is normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some System 9 MPUs shipped from the factory with zero ohm jumpers installed instead of inductors (see images left and right). When repairing alkaline corrosion, it&#039;s completely acceptable to replaced damaged inductors with jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
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====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (All versions of System 11)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Section.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 11A MPU board.  Components to be removed are circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Gen.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Reset section with reset generator and jumper installed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on all versions of the System 11 MPU boards. A reset generator can be installed. Since the reset section of all versions of the System 11 MPU board is susceptible to battery damage, this is a very easy, and minimalistic way to rebuild the reset section. To do so, 4 components will need to be removed and a jumper installed. The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Q39 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from top to bottom as installed on the board) R58, R60 (these two are just below the Q39 transistor), and R69.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO (also used on Data East MPUs) where Q39 was. Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q39 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install in the bottom through hole). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the right pad of R58 and the right pad of R60 (both resistors have been removed).&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary for the sound section of the MPU on most boards, except the 11B and 11C variants.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired. Please consult the System 11 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics.  The MCP130 variant with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used, but it is not necessary.  This is because resistor network SR19 pin 3 is an external 4.7K ohm resistor used to pull up the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a prime example of where a reset generator is very handy.  The amount of components replaced are reduced from 15-20 to 1.  Note that because this was an 11B board (also true for 11C boards), there is no sound amplifier on the board.  Hence, the +12v is not needed at all, and none of the parts related to the +12v were repopulated.  If this were an 11(nothing) or an 11A board, the +12V inductor (can be replaced by a simple jumper), the W10/W11 jumper, and associated capacitors (C27, C28, and C29) would need to be populated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=330px heights=210px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;A Prime Candidate for Using a Reset Generator (11B MPU Board Shown)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot.JPG|Battery alkali leeched into the reset section.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot WIP.JPG|Components removed, affected traces and pads cleaned and treated.&lt;br /&gt;
File:S11ResetSectionAnnotated.png|Components repopulated. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MinumunResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Another image showing &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;the single jumper (string tied to it) and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator (System 11B/11C). System 11 (nothing) and System 11A must retain a few more parts.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the above gallery pics, note that some components in the reset area had to be reinstalled.  These components are in the area of the reset section, but are not part of the reset circuitry. They are actually related to the game RAM, enabling CMOS power to reach the RAM and to control pin 18, the chip enable pin of the RAM. Without these parts, the MPU will not successfully boot.  Instead, there will be a &#039;&#039;&#039;single blink code&#039;&#039;&#039; from the diagnostic LED indicating a U25 RAM error (a &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; will display on boards with the 7-segment display).  If the game display is connected to the MPU board, a &amp;quot;U25 RAM ERROR&amp;quot; message will be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
*D1 - 1N5817 diode &lt;br /&gt;
*Q40 - 2N3904 transistor (a 2N4401 was used in this case)&lt;br /&gt;
*R64 - 1 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R65 - 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R68 - 4.7 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And, once again, for a System 11 (nothing) or a System 11A MPU, both of which have onboard amplifiers in the upper left corner and require 12VDC power, be sure to retain or replace the following parts:&lt;br /&gt;
*L2 - 4.7uH inductor (or a simple jumper)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C28 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 100uf/25V electrolytic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Connecting a logic probe to the MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Logic Probe connected to System 9 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Logic Probe connected to System 11 (11A) MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, +5v and ground can always be acquired at any one of the bypass capacitors, which are located at most every chip, and simply labeled as &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 comp PSU.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 9 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 comp PSU.JPG|300px|right|thumb|System 11 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 1J17 power connection is essentially the same for System 9 and all variants of the System 11 MPU boards.  The ground connection can be attached to pins 1 through 3.  The +5vdc connection can be connected to pins 4 through 6.  -12vdc gets connected to pin 8 and +12vdc gets connected to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 games are far more tolerant of low line conditions vs. the newer WPC games.  Some things to check if the game is resetting are the usual culprits for this type of thing:  connectors, filter capacitors, slam switches, bad chip sockets, etc.  It is good preventative maintenance to replace the +5 volt filter capacitor on the power supply with a new one; most of these are 25+ years old and might be getting to the point of wearing out.  Certainly replace them if you are getting resetting on your system 11 game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11 games give an indication that they&#039;ve been slam tilted; if you&#039;re getting a &amp;quot;game reset&amp;quot; but you get a noise and/or a message on the displays beforehand, it is probably a slam switch issue vs. a true reset issue.  Check all the slam switches in the game (usually the coin door is the main one, and also the ball roll tilt if present).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
====A/C solenoid/flasher problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AuxDriverBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board, showing the A/C select relay, the clear &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; at the top, center of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is a dual &amp;quot;make/break&amp;quot; (DPDT, double pole, double throw) relay that supplies power to either the &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; or the &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. It is located on the Auxiliary Power/Driver Board for games that use the board which was introduced with Big Guns and used on all subsequent games. For games prior to Big Guns, like F-14 Tomcat, the relay is probably located under the playfield. There are exceptions. High Speed and Grand Lizard do not use an A/C select relay. Road Kings uses one for a handful of solenoids, but this game did not follow the 1-8 solenoid convention which games after it adopted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple ways that the A-Side / C-Side (A/C after this) relay circuit can fail. If the driving transistor (Q8 for Big Guns and later, Q7 for games prior to Big Guns, and located on the MPU board) shorts, the A/C select relay will be constantly energized, resulting in flashers firing when coils should have fired. If the driving transistor never switches the A/C select relay on, coils will fire when flashers should have fired.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing this behavior is easy. Use the diagnostic buttons to select solenoid test, and watch carefully to see what fires. The display will show the coil/flasher under test. The first 8 drive circuits tested will have an &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. That is, circuits will fire in the following order: 1A, 1C, 2A, 2C, ... 8A, 8C. If the A/C select circuit is not working correctly, the same coil or flasher will fire twice in a row, once for the A side and once for the C side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is generally solenoid 12 in coil test. Placing the &amp;quot;Auto Advance&amp;quot; button in the up position, to repeatedly test solenoid 12, should allow you to hear the A/C relay clicking on and off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of &amp;quot;one side&amp;quot; of the A/C select circuit is not working, the fuse supplying the voltage to that side may be blown. F2 (DC side of BR1) and F8 (AC side of BR1) fuse the 25V circuit. F4 (DC side of BR2) and F7 (AC side of BR2) fuse the 50V circuit. Another suspect is fractured solder joints on the A/C select relay. Reflowing these solder joints is simple. The A/C select relay is relatively heavy and it&#039;s weight puts stress on the solder connection at the printed circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-OKOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing normal, working switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is rare for the A/C relay itself to fail. A possible source of trouble are the miniature contacts on the relay wipers. These are high power, high current, contacts that can be filed with a small point file to restore proper current carrying capacity.  Under no circumstances should you ever use contact cleaner on these contacts, as this could cause a spark or fire to occur. Be careful to not mangle the contact wipers in an attempt to adjust them. Adjust with care. 99% of the time, these switch contacts need no maintenance at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-WeldedOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a disassembled A/C select relay with both the A Side and the C Side connected at the center contact pads. It&#039;s rare for one of these relays to &amp;quot;weld&amp;quot; itself to both sides. In this particular instance, the game would fire both the A-side coil and the C-side flasher at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other failure points are the connectors and headers connecting the aux driver board to the main cpu/driver board. Fractured solder joints can affect the proper operation of the relay. It is good practice to replace, or at minimum, reflow the header pins, and to replace connector pins in their housings with new pins. System 11 games use .156 connectors in most locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And finally, the solder joints holding the A/C select relay to the board may fracture and cause loss of connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On a related note, if the flashers never illuminate during game or test, but the A/C relay physically engages, likewise the flasher lamps are good, and power is present at the lamps, suspect potential failure of the U1 (4N25) U1 optocoupler on the interconnect board.  Starting with Jokerz, the U1 optocoupler on the D-12313 interconnect board was used to identify whether or not the A/C relay has engaged.  Under normal operation, if the A/C relay has engaged, the voltage on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; side passes back to the optocoupler.  In turn, there is a switch on the switch matrix, typically switch 2, which receives the signal from the U1 optocoupler.  Note that U1 is on some previous games like Taxi, but it was not used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems with RottenDog MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPUDIPSwitches.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left| RottenDog MPU with a red switch bank for selecting either Williams or Data East special solenoid implementation.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDMPU004DIPSwitches.jpg ‎‎|300px|thumb|right| These DIP switches on this RottenDog are configured for a Williams game, even though they do not seem to match the PCB silkscreen.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU board can accommodate both Williams and Data East special solenoid implementations. This is accomplished with an 8 DIP switch bank, pictured at left. If set to the wrong game system, special solenoids will not operate properly in your game. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The DIP switch positions should be set the opposite of what you might think, based on the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpecialSolenoidCircuit.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A typical special solenoid circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Special solenoids on system 11 games are similar to the earlier variants used on all previous Williams&#039; board sets.  During gameplay/test modes the primary switches on the special solenoids (usually the pops and slings) are active, allowing actuation of those switches to fire the solenoids.  This is done by grounding an input to a 7402 logic chip which in turn pre-drives a 2n4401 pre-driver transistor which drives a TIP122 Darlington transistor to fire the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During solenoid test mode only, the secondary path to the 7402 is utilized instead to fire the solenoids.  Since there are 2 paths to fire the solenoids, it is possible for a special solenoid to work in game/test mode, but fail the solenoid test due to a failed PIA or 7402 chip, and vice-versa.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the primary switch associated with the special solenoid device. Therefore, System 9 special solenoids are not activated during solenoid test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a special solenoid actuation switch locks on, the solenoid itself will lock on as well, (hopefully) blowing the associated fuse before blowing all or some of the TIP122/2N4401/7402 circuit.  An inline fuse holder can be added to all special solenoids with a 1 amp fuse installed to help prevent this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11B games do not use the special solenoids in the same way. Special solenoid switches were added to the switch matrix instead, keeping all or some of the solenoid pulses under CPU control. It is easy to identify whether a game has CPU controlled special solenoids by inspecting the activation switches on the special solenoids. If there are both a primary and a secondary switch installed, the game operates via the direct-fire special solenoid setup.  (Note that a secondary switch in the case of slingshots does not mean the normal 2nd switch all slings shots employ. Rather, it refers to a switch that only activates when the sling activates. It is installed near the pivot point of the sling arm underneath the playfield.) Also the secondary switches go to CPU connector J18. If nothing is connected to J18, then the special solenoids are CPU controlled. In games like BK2K only the kickers are CPU controlled while the pop bumpers still use the secondary switches.    There was no rhyme or reason (no definitive start / stop point) which System 11B titles used special solenoid secondary switches, and which did not. Please refer to the game list [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11B above] to determine which did / did not use the secondary switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) that &amp;quot;protect&amp;quot; the board logic from shorts between the sense switches and coil power. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The usual cause of special solenoid circuit failure is a stuck switch that locks the associated solenoid on, causing the TIP-122 transistor to fail and the coil to get so hot that the winding insulation melts (causing a reduction of coil resistance, eventually approaching zero ohms). The zener diode (pictured, left) in the circuit may fail shorted as well. This will cause the associated coil to lock on even after repair of the other damaged circuitry since the zener is connected directly to ground. The shorted zener diode causes the 7402/2N4401/TIP122 circuit to react identically to a switch closure. Gack!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;If your game doesn&#039;t use the special solenoid switch inputs as in most System 11B games and all System 11C games (i.e. no connection at 1J18), then these zeners serve no purpose and may be clipped off. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Unusual Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlwindPinchedWire.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A pinched wire (white/brown) that causes a tough to find solenoid problem.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 method of securing boards sometimes causes odd problems. The securing screws must be removed completely to remove a board vs the improved WPC method of sliding the board off the screw head via a &amp;quot;keyhole&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When securing the boards, it&#039;s important to ensure that wires aren&#039;t pinched behind the board. If a wire is pinched severely enough, the insulation will be displaced and the conductor will contact the backbox ground plain, which can cause a wide range of odd problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wire in the picture shown at left happened to be the ground path for coil #1, the outhole kicker on Whirlwind. When the game was powered on, the coil would lock on until the blanking circuit became active. Pressing the diagnostic/audit coin door button would also result in the coil locking on. This was actually the A/C relay flipping to the coil side for diagnostics and providing power to the coils. The outhole coil had a path to ground via the pinched wire and would lock on. A game could be started and the coil appeared to work properly until &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;any&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the 1 through 8 coils were activated (when the A/C select relay would energize again). At that time, the outhole coil would fire at the same time as the other 1 through 8 coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This one was a real head scratcher!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps wired in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 flash lamps are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
This may seem painfully obvious, but with any lamp problem, where all lamps in the same circuit are not lighting, first see if the associated fuse is blown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Illumination Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
As a rule of thumb, general illumination (GI) lamp issues with System 9 or 11 games are dependent on the era of the game.  The reason for this is GI circuits passed through different boards over the years.  And, the majority of GI issues are typically due to the circuit board.  Not so much the circuit board itself, but the junction between the header pin connections on the circuit board and the connector pins located in the female housings.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is extremely common for the header pins and / or the female connections related to the GI circuit to heat up, and in worse cases char or burn.  When some of these games were in operation earning money, they could potentially be turned on for 8, 12, or more hours every day.  If the connectors were compromised at some time in the game&#039;s life, the issues become compounded.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The problem is a vicious cycle.  If either side of the connector heats up, it creates more resistance.  If it creates more resistance, it draws more current.  If it draws more current, it heats up.  This cycle continues until the connector blows the circuit&#039;s fuse (provided the proper fuse is installed and not by-passed), the connectors are so bad that the circuit no longer has continuity, or the connectors are replaced with new ones.  It is recommended that both the male header pin connector be replaced and the associated pin connectors which connect to it.  Replacing only one side of the connector is only asking for repeat problems down the road.  Header pins rated for 7 amp are highly recommended as a replacement.  If the 7A headers are used, the likelihood of the connector failing due to heat is greatly reduced.  Likewise, the use of Molex Trifurcon connector pins are recommended.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another prevalent problem is the failure of the relay board or the relay board connectors. GI relay boards are typically found under the playfield and on the back of the lamp insert panel. The job of the relay board is to switch the GI lamps on/off for special lighting effects. Over many years of operation, the solder joints on the connector may fracture.  Although it is more common for the male/female connectors to burn badly. Repinning these connectors, as is typical for GI connectors, is the prescribed fix.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Space Shuttle to Fire!=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 GI Circuits.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Typical System 9/11 Power Supply with GI Drivetrain Notated]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During this time period, general illumination entered the power supply [1 / 2], was parsed, and exited the power supply as 4 separate circuits [4].  Although there were 4 discrete GI circuits with 4 separate fuses [5], all 4 circuits were turned on/off via one relay [3] located on the power supply.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the factory connection on the power supply for System 9 games differs than what is shown in the picture. Connections [1 / 2] do not exist on System 9 games, and only two wires are used to input the general illumination instead of four.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Big Guns to Swords of Fury=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone Interconnect.JPG|300px|left|thumb|The interconnect board from a Cyclone mounted to the left side of the backbox]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With all the games mentioned in this particular section, there were some design growing pains.  Williams was creating a preliminary interconnect board, however, it was very different from game to game at first.  Therefore, GI issues may occur at the power supply connections, the interconnect board connections, and / or at one of the discrete GI relay boards used.  Since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A shown at the pic on the left, the general illumination headers, connectors, and connector housings have been changed out due to fatigue / failure.  This is a common failure point on games such as Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Taxi to Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball=====&lt;br /&gt;
The games included during this era used a somewhat standardized interconnect board located below the CPU board.  The GI circuits coming directly from the transformer enter the board on the right side at connector J6.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  In actuality, the GI wires are only 4 wires, instead of 8 wires.  Once the upper 2 wires reach the board, each of them are daisy-chained through the insulation displacement connector (IDC).  Equally, the bottom 2 wires are connected in the same fashion.  This was presumedly done to reduce cost, and decrease the life expectancy of the connection as a whole.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect BK2K GI Marked.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Williams Interconnect Board with general illumination wire colors marked.  Interconnect board is from a Black Knight 2000]]&lt;br /&gt;
The most typical header connections that fail on the interconnect board are J6 (the GI input and return) and J7 (the GI output and return lines to the backbox insert).  The purpose of the picture to the left is to easily identify what GI circuits pass through what connections.  This will aid in attempting to check the continuity of your rework, whether only replacing just one of the header connectors or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the wiring color codes for J6 in the pic are not the incoming wire colors.  The wiring codes in the pic are illustrated this way to determine where the GI circuits disperse throughout the board.  The game&#039;s schematics in the manual include this information too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that discrete GI relay boards were still used during this time period.  Dependent on the game, there may be one to three discrete GI relay boards used.  Again, since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======Repairing the General Illumination Input Connector / Wiring======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Butterfly_GI.jpg|thumb|300px|left|General Illumination input connector with looped (butterfly) wiring]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11 Interconnect GI Connection.jpg|thumb|300px|right|One method for repairing the GI input connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
From the factory, only 4 wires total were connected to the GI power and return input connector, which is located on the right hand side of the interconnect board.  With only 4 discrete connections per wire from the transformer, 8 wires are needed to connect to the interconnect board.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  To increase 2 wire connections to 4 wire connections, the wires connect to the IDC connector via one connector pin, pass through that connector pin, and loop back to another connector pin.  In doing this, the life expectancy of the connector and the header pins on the interconnect board are reduced (too much current for these connections to maintain over their lifespan).  The end result is typically burnt connector pins, housings, headers, and in some cases, the interconnect board too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To resolve the burnt connection issue, the header pins on the interconnect board should be replaced with new ones.  Preferably 7A higher current rated header pins.  As for the harness side, the housing should be replaced too, and Molex Trifurcon crimp pins used within the housing.  To compensate for the extra wires needed, each of the input wires will need a &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot; junction soldered in place.  To do so, take a small piece of wire approximately 4&amp;quot; - 5&amp;quot; long.  In the middle of the small piece of wire, carefully strip the insulation, leaving about 1/4&amp;quot; of exposed wire.  Place a piece of heatshrink on the single incoming wire.  Then, bend the small piece of wire at its center where the insulation is stripped, until both ends leads are nearly parallel with one another.  Take the incoming wire, and solder it to the exposed wire in the center.  The end result will look like a rudimentary &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot;.  Pull the heatshrink over the junction, and that&#039;s it.  This needs to be done for the remaining 3 wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the wire modifications, you can also do a board modification. The J6 connector on the right side can be burned to a crisp. Often lifting pads under the printheader. To repair this you can add a jumper wire to the top 4 traces, connecting pin 1-2-3-4 together. This can also be done for the bottom 2 traces, connecting pin 6-8 together, but you are still missing pins 5 and 7 to be connected to 6 and 8. Turn the board over and solder a jumper over pins 5 thru 8. The same can be done for pins 1 thru 4. Now you have the best possible connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_1.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board with Modification&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_2.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (front)&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_3.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (back)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorLampMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing lamp matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistor.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The same broken SIP resistor after removal.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Sockets=====&lt;br /&gt;
Failed lamp sockets are not very common with System 9-11c games.  If a specific lamp will not illuminate, spinning the lamp socket canister or solder tab can resolve the issue in some cases.  One thing to keep in mind is that all controlled lamp sockets have a diode soldered to two of the lamp socket tabs.  Due to this, the legs of the diode can get pressed against other leads on the lamp socket resulting in an electrical short.  The end result may be a lamp which shines more brightly than other lamps in the same column or row, or a whole lamp column or row will illuminate dimly when they shouldn&#039;t be lit at all.  The resolution is to inspect all associated lamps in the column or row, and look for solder tabs or diode legs touching where they should not be.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Pinbot, Williams introduced lamp boards.  Lamp boards were used in areas where lamp inserts were positioned too closely together, and it did not make logical sense (or it was not physically possible) to use individual lamp sockets.  With subsequent games, lamp boards were used whenever lamp inserts were &amp;quot;nested&amp;quot; in groups.  This trend was presumedly done to save on assembly and production costs.  One benefit of lamp boards is that bulb replacemnt became easier in most cases.  A simple turn of the twist lamp socket (WMS # 24-8767), and the 555 bulb could be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Lamp Board.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early direct solder lamp board as seen on Pinbot - the large color matrix below the top and right colored targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generations of lamp boards had the lamp column and row wires soldered directly to the board.  On one hand, this is beneficial, because there is one less mechanical connection used in the lamp circuits.  On the other hand, it makes it more difficult to remove the lamp boards completely from the game to clean and / or service.  On the plus side, very little goes wrong with the direct wired lamp boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|300px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Two things that can fail are individual lamp circuit diodes or the solder pads can develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot;, where the twist sockets make physical contact with the board.  To overcome the divots, simply add a little solder, and carefully reflow the solder pads.  Make certain not to apply too much heat...just enough to evenly flow the solder.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Fire!, Williams started using lamp boards with .156&amp;quot; header connections for the lamp column and row lines.  This allowed for easy removal and service of the lamp boards.  However, it introduced some new problems.  Because the lamp boards used were single-sided, (this was presumably a cost analysis decision), the .156&amp;quot; header pins can develop cold solder joints and crack due to vibration.  The problem can easily be rectified by removing the old solder from the header pins, and applying fresh, new solder.  This style of lamp board is susceptible to the same issues (bad diodes and divots) as mentioned in the direct wired lamp boards section above.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Adjacent Columns or Rows Lighting Simultaneously =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsS11ShortedLampColumnDrives.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Column drive transistor tabs touching, shorted together. Here, lamp columns 3 and 4 would light at the same time.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A problem seen fairly often is the tabs of either column drives or row returns touching, and therefore shorted and causing more than one column (in the picture at left) or row to light at the same time. If you have this issue, it&#039;s easy to quickly examine the column drive and row return transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Lamp Matrix Row and Column Testing =====&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using a jumper wire.  The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the lamp matrix columns and rows.  The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_columns.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP42 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns.  Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it&#039;s function is to prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix.  In this test we are only connecting a single lamp at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J7.  There is no pin 5 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a column doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q66&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q64&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q62&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q60&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q58&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q56&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q54&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q52&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_rows.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP102/122 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J6.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a row doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test. The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q80&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q81&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q82&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q83&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Grn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q84&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q85&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q86&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q87&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using MOSFETs in the Lamp Matrix Circuitry=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Procedure by Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. Using modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06), the heat (and power consumption) can be reduced substantially.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETSchematic.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Typical &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation (left), &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation on right. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics shown at left compare the widely used &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation with the &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation that uses two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half. Doing so drives the MOSFET with a 9 VDC Vgs.&amp;lt;br  clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 9 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors and IRF9Z34N FETs installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q23-30&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR5&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 11 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R82-89&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR16&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11_mosfet.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A very clean alternate implementation with resistors on the component side. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider DumbAss&#039;&#039;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shown at left is a very clean installation of all parts on the component side of the board. Note that the 1K resistors are situated such that the &amp;quot;body&amp;quot; of the resistor passes between the MOSFETs instead of the legs, thereby eliminating the possibility of a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.  Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorSwitchMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing switch matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Row and Column Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the switch matrix can be tested by simulating switch closures using a jumper wire on both System 9 and System 11 (all revision levels) MPUs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem9SwitchMatrixTesting.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Testing the System 9 switch matrix, but jumpering from pins on 1J8 to pins on 1J10.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As seen at left, testing the switch matrix rows and columns on a System 9 MPU is identical to testing on a System 11 MPU except for which connectors to use. The switch columns on the System 9 MPU at 1J8 are numbered right to left. The switch rows at 1J10 are numbered left to right. 1J9 is available (sometimes not stuffed) for opto switch processing, although this feature may never been used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 switch matrix operates on 5VDC. The switch columns at 1J8 are &amp;quot;strobed&amp;quot; by being pulled to ground successively by the 6821 PIA. The switch columns are normally pulled high via a pull-up resistor. If the switch at the intersection of the column and row is closed, when the column is strobed, the row will be pulled low too. In this way, the processor knows which column it strobed, and which rows return that strobe.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the system 11 switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_col.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix columns.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J10 pin 9, the leftmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated.  The test may report the switch name, refer to the switch matrix table in the manual to correlate the name to the switch number.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J8 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to row 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J8.  There is no pin 6 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire Colors&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Switch number&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_row.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix rows.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J10 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J10 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to column 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J10.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Shorted or non-working switch column====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One or more failed switch columns can be caused by a failed column drive transistor (Q42 through Q49, all 2N4401s) or a failed 1K SIP resistor pack at SRC6.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The column drive transistor part was changed with the system 11B MPU. System 9 to 11A MPUs use 2N3904 transistors at location Q42 to Q49 with 1.5Kohm inline resistors (R71 through R78). These column drive transistors fail quite often as these MPUs age. These 2N3904 transistors can be replaced with 2N4401s. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When System 11B was introduced, the switch column drives were changed to 2N5550s with 470 ohm inline resistors. The more commonly found, and beefier 2N5551, is a good substitute for the 2N5550. Before replacing the transistor, be sure which kind the board uses. Some early system 11B MPUs were stuffed with 2N3904s despite the schematics indicating otherwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A broken SIP can also cause a switch column not to work. This usually happens with System 11 and 11A CPUs. With 11B WMS also changed the switch section layout and eliminated most of the SIPs. The likely candidates are SRC6 and SR11. In the case of SRC6, measure resistance between pin 1 and 2 to 9. If it&#039;s broken it&#039;s usually open after pin 3 or 4. This is a bussed 1K SIP with additional 470pfd capacitors connected to ground and practically NLA. Fortunately the caps are not needed because they are also mounted on the board so it can be replaced with a standard 9-8 1K SIP. Pin 10 which is the common ground for the caps is not used here. SR11 is a standard bussed 560 ohm 10-9 SIP. Here you measure resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 to 10. Be aware that two types of SIPs are used on the board: bussed and isolated. If you suspect a different SIP has failed check the schematics for the pin layout. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Brokensip.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A broken resistor SIP.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a broken resistor package similar to SRC6 but out of a System 11 master display. As can be seen, the part may look solid to the naked eye, but it&#039;s actually fractured.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ground Row Shorts====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11CrackedSR11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Note the fracture in the SIP at SR11. The fracture became apparent only after desoldering the part.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A possible cause for one or more ground row shorts (indicated by the game software on the score display during switch test) is a fractured resistor SIP at SR11 (a 560 ohm 10-pin bussed resistor network). SR11 is a pull-up resistor that is connected between each switch row return and 5VDC. If the return is not pulled up, that return will look like a low signal continuously, which the MPU interprets as a row ground short. Visual inspection of the SIP &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;might or might not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; identify the cause of the problem. A better test is to remove the switch row return connector (J10) and probe each pin with a logic probe. The logic probe should indicate &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; for every pin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Specific to the board pictured at left, a logic probe indicated that J10 pins 1, 2, and 3 were all high but the remaining pins had no signal at all. The fracture can easily be seen between pins 5 and 6 of the SIP (pin 4 isn&#039;t used) meaning that pins 6 through 10 were not connected to 5VDC and therefore not pulling the switch row return to logic high. Hence, the MPU declared a row ground short for rows 1 through 5.  Note that the actual fracture can rarely be seen prior to attempted removal of the resistor network from the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 4N25 Opto Couplers in the Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:4N25System11InterconnectBoard.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Three 4N25 Opto Couplers on a Williams System 11 Interconnect Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games that include an Interconnect Board may use 4N25 Opto Couplers to detect power being applied to the flippers or to detect 28VDC being applied to the A/C relay (as in Rollergames). Pre-Fliptronic WPC games that use the -1 power/driver board also use 4N25 Opto Couplers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These opto couplers are connected to the game switch matrix. Detecting these switches is most often used for lane change and for entering HSTD initials. If one of these functions no longer works, the 4N25 opto couplers should be considered suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, testing an opto coupler is simple using the diode test function provided by most DMMs. Set the DMM to diode test, compare results against those pictured below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Testing a 4N25 Opto Coupler&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Internal.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The internal schematic of the 4N25. Pins 1 and 2 connect to an internal diode (LED). Pins 4 thru 6 connect to a PNP photo transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test3.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the diode connected to pins 1 and 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test2.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 5, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test1.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 4, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switches Not Registering with a Rottendog MPU / Driver Board Installed====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_Before.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_After.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Modified Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the opto switches are not registering at all in a game, and a Rottendog MPU board is being used, suspect that it is an older style board.  This board can easily be upgraded though.  U2 will have to be switched from a 74HCT240 to a 74HC240 chip, and RA5 will have to be changed from a 9-pin 4.7K ohm bussed SIP resistor network to a 9-pin 560 ohm bussed SIP resistor network.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 9/11 High Voltage Section Repair&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don&#039;t continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.  &lt;br /&gt;
====High Voltage Issues With the Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Check Voltages=====&lt;br /&gt;
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working.    &lt;br /&gt;
On the Power Supply Board, use a DMM set to DC volts with the - lead grounded, probe the following connector &lt;br /&gt;
pins to determine if the HV section needs repair.  If the display fuse, F1 is blowing, &lt;br /&gt;
you should remove the applicable display connector (with power off) before testing the voltages. Note that these are &amp;quot;loaded&amp;quot; voltages. If you are testing on the bench, or without displays connected, your measurements may vary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-11883 or D-12246:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 1 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 3 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-8345-xxx:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 3 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 4 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the test points are more than about 5 volts out of spec, then your HV section may &lt;br /&gt;
be malfunctioning (if you or a previous owner replaced Z2/Z4 with 1N4763A diodes to purposely reduce the display voltage, test readings in the 90&#039;s range would be normal).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check the table below for a solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Troubleshooting table=====&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Symptom&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Cause&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacement&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 0V ON BOTH +100/-100 lines&lt;br /&gt;
| Check F1 &lt;br /&gt;
| 1/4 Amp SB&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D3&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR1, ZR2&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R1&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q4&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR3, ZR4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q3&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R4&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=4 | F1 1/4 Amp Fuse Blows&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Capacitor at C1 and C3&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Display&lt;br /&gt;
| Display Glass*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN7180&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN7180*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN6118&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN6118*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| +118V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| -118V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  colspan=3 | * located on display board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Displays Test With no Shorts&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Once the displays are tested and shorts are eliminated, we can proceed with the HV section repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacing the components in the HV Section&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Since there are not that many components, if you are having problems isolating the &lt;br /&gt;
fault, a quick solution is to replace all the components in &lt;br /&gt;
the HV section. If only one side (+ or -) is failing, it is possible to rebuild only the failing side.&lt;br /&gt;
Check the parts section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the replacement parts for one or both failing sides:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;-Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+,-Location&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340 (or MJE15030)&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350 (or MJE15031)&lt;br /&gt;
| Q1,Q3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
| Q2,Q4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| Z1,Z3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| Z2,Z4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| R1,R4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| R2,R5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| R3,R6&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| C2,C4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| C1,C3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| colspan=4 | **This is a 91V Zener to reduce the voltage to prolong display life&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSPartIdentification.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visual depiction of the parts in a System 11 high voltage section. Note that the legs of the MJE15030/MJE51031 are crossed as this power supply originally used OEM parts SDS-201 and SDS-202]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;strong&amp;gt;Remove and replace HV components&amp;lt;/strong&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Stuff board with new components.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Leave a little space under components for air flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Bend leads on components so they won&#039;t fall out when board is inverted for soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Solder the parts to the board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip excess off leads&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE340/MJE350 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE340/MJE350 is the heat-sinked transistor.  On most Williams boards, this transistor pin configuration is not the same as the original part.  It will need to be installed vertically with heat sink attached to the transistor only.  The transistor will sit at about a 45 degree angle so the legs can be lined up to fit in the correct holes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check your board and insure correct orientation before soldering in place.  Late versions of the System 11 series boards were designed to use the pin configuration of the MJE340/MJE350 transistors.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Do not mount vertically if the power supply is designed to use the pin configurations of the newer transistors!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MJEInstall.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE15030/MJE15031 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys11MJELegsCrossed.jpg|300px|left|thumb|High Voltage section with MJE15031 installed. Note the crossed legs on the left transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 PS Alt HV Transistor Pads.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Power supply with pads for both styles of HV transistors]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 are rated for higher power and can be used instead of the MJE340/MJE350 (the MJE340/MJE350 are well within design specifications and are suitable replacements at 1/3 the cost of the MJE15030/MJE15031). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 pin configuration has the Base and Emitter reversed as compared to the MJE340/MJE350. In the image at left, the left transistor (MJE15031) shows one method of crossing the legs safely. The transistor&#039;s two left legs are shifted right on position. The third leg is then jumpered to the boards left through hole position.  If you prefer not to cross legs, this transistor can also be mounted vertically, but this transistor would be facing the opposite direction as compared to the MJE340/MJE350 pictured above.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some power supplies which have pads for both the SDS-201/SDS-202 or the MJE15030/MJE15031 style of transistors.  In the pic to the right, the MJE15030/MJE15031 transistors are installed from the factory, but there are solder pads just below for installation of the SDS-201/SDS-202 transistors. If installing ME15030/MJE15031, the upper pads are used, and no leg crossing is required.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready to test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the rebuilt power supply, return to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Check Voltages&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; section of this guide.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9-11 HV section of the PSU is very similar in design to the earlier System 3-7.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Power_Supply_Issues|Sys 3-7 PSU Problems]] section entitled &#039;&#039;&#039;+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU&#039;&#039;&#039;, for more detail.  It also provides links to source complete HV rebuild kits which will normally cost under $10 shipped.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Panel Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segment Identification=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegmentLetters.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Alphanumeric and Numeric Segment Identification.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Will Not Light=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PlasmaBallTest.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Testing a high voltage plasma display with an inexpensive plasma ball]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If power to the display is correct, and the display was moved to a known working display panel position (if possible), it is possible that the display has outgassed. A plasma ball can be used to determine if a display glass is outgassed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A Youtube video demonstrating the use of an inexpensive plasma ball for this purpose can be found [https://youtube.com/shorts/GGftl3S_OWg?si=T5Cdzyovtar6_Han &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segments Light &amp;quot;In Sympathy&amp;quot; With Other Segments=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ShortedSegments.jpg|300px|left|thumb|In this image, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; light simultaneously, even though only one segment should be lit. The last two characters illustrate the issue clearly. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider Pinball50.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Internal shorts within a display glass can cause segments to light &amp;quot;in sympathy&amp;quot; with other segments. That is, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot;, for example, will both light, when only one of the segments &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;should&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be lit. Segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; is lit and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; is lit. This is caused by an internal short within the glass. The short can be confirmed by &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;removing the leads of the associated segments from the PCB&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; and measuring resistance between them. The resistance should be infinite, or open.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, there is no way to repair the glass and it should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Commas stuck on (Players 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4)=====&lt;br /&gt;
System 9: Check IC36 on the MPU (6821 PIA)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 16 = Players 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 17 = Players 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game in attract mode, check these pins with a logic probe. They should go low each time the displays turn off. if they stay high, the PIA is likely bad and will need to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Fuse F1 Blows=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the UDN Chips&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the display fuse is blowing, you should check the display board for shorts before connecting&lt;br /&gt;
a new or rebuilt power supply to the display board, as a shorted display or chip can damage a good power&lt;br /&gt;
supply.  Remove the display board from the system.  The display characters are driven by the two types &lt;br /&gt;
of UDN chips, the UDN7180 &amp;amp; UDN6118 (or UDN6184).  Locate these chips (there are several)&lt;br /&gt;
on the board and test them with your DMM set to diode check.  Clip your + (RED) &lt;br /&gt;
lead to the ground trace of the board.  Probe the UDN chips as shown in the diagram.  &lt;br /&gt;
If any shorts are read in the tested pins, the display should not be connected to the power &lt;br /&gt;
supply until the shorts are corrected.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pins labeled &#039;dont care&#039;), the UDN&lt;br /&gt;
chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board.  Take care to preserve this chip,&lt;br /&gt;
as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace.  Now install an IC socket in its place.&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat the test with no chip installed.  If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing Display Glass=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change1.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed with glass nipple in proper location]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change2.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Replacement glass installed after circuit board was drilled to allow for glass nipple in different location]]&lt;br /&gt;
All plasma displays have a finite life expectancy.  Display glass replacements were and are offered in several configurations.  The differences in these configurations are mainly the placement or lack of a display &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; on the back of the glass.  The glass nipple is what can pose as somewhat of a problem, when replacing a display glass.  Williams did place a rather large hole in the display circuit board.  However, the placement of the glass nipple has changed.  To overcome this issue, a hole can carefully be drilled through the circuit board to allow for the glass nipple.  When drilling, drill successive holes, starting with a small drill bit first, rather than drilling one large hole.  This will reduce the chances of the circuit board &amp;quot;splintering&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At one time, [http://www.pinballpcb.com/Displays.html pinballpcb.com] did offer replacement displays and / or just the replacement display circuit boards.  Neither of these products are available anymore.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit Repair.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Original display glass was secured to its circuit board with double-sided, high tack, foam tape.  If this cannot be acquired, a simple method to secure an existing or new display glass is to use silicone caulk or RTV caulk.  However, in following this method, the glass must be supported on the board until the caulk cures.  Wrapping the glass with rubber bands is a great way to do this.  Once the caulk is cured, just cut off the rubber bands.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Logic States of Display Output Signals for a Working MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
These logic states were recorded from a System 11A board. This board was running Swords of Fury code in display test mode manually paused with all characters / digits on &amp;quot;8&amp;quot;.  This is for games with a 4 x 7 display board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
L=LOW, H=HIGH, P=PULSE&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ3 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || H&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ2 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || None (Key) &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ1 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || L || 1 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || L || 3 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || L || 5 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || L || 7 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L || 9 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || L || 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 14 || L || 13 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 16 || L || 15 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 18 || L || 17 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 20 || P || 19 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 22 || P || 21 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 24 || P || 23 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 26 || P || 25 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jumper Settings for a newer System 9 Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board jumpers.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Jumpers Circled on a Comet System 9 Speech Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned above, the System 9 speech board is essentially the same as the System 6/7 speech board. However, the newer speech board has jumpers added to increase the flexibility of EPROMs used.  Either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs can be used.  If using 2532 EPROMs, install jumpers W2 and W4, and remove jumpers W1 and W3.  If using 2732 EPROMs, install jumpers W1 and W3, and remove jumpers W2 and W4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Sound or Speech Calls=====&lt;br /&gt;
To start a sound test, simply press the SW2 momentary switch at the bottom of the CPU board located between connections 1J16 and 1J17.  Once SW2 is pressed, the CPU will cycle through all of the sound / speech calls continuously.  Each System 9 game has a chart located in the manual, which lists the speech and sound calls made during test.  The benefit of the chart in the manual is that it lists the ROM where a particular call originates.  If a particular sound / speech call is not heard, the associated ROM listed for that call may be bad.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another result of speech calls missing is possibly a bad U2 or U3 on the speech board.  Both of these chips are 1458 op-amps.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Isolating the CPU Sound from the Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the sound / speech calls originate from the CPU board, while the remaining calls originate from the speech board.  If after running a game through sound test by pressing SW2, and some sounds are missing or very low in volume, a good idea is to isolate the CPU board from the speech board.  All of the sounds originated on the CPU board, leave the board via the 40 pin ribbon cable, and go to the speech board for mixing.  Once mixed, all of the sounds and speech are then returned to the CPU board, amplified, and sent out to the speakers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Much like the System 6/7 sound and speech boards, the sound can be isolated from the speech board for testing purposes.  The System 6/7 Type 2 sound board uses a jumper at position W1.  When jumper W1 is installed, the sound board can be diagnosed without the speech board installed.  The equivalent with the System 9 CPU board is jumper W10.  This jumper is typically not connected.  However, when it is connected, the sounds originating from the CPU board can be heard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Locate jumper W10 on the CPU board.  W10 is located to the right of SW2 on the board. There should be two very small wires clipped on either side of W10, as if W10 was installed and removed. Connect an alligator test lead across the short leads of W10.  If the short leads are not present, a short light gauge wire or wire wrap can be tack soldered to the solder pads of W10, or use a jumper wire to connect the lower legs of C32 and R76 which are just right of W10 (see pic, below).  With a jumper installed at W10, some sounds should be heard when SW2 is pressed. Sound test, via the coin door diagnostic button is likely to provide sounds for all but sound 7, which is a voice call. If no sounds are heard, further troubleshooting must be performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=350px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Adding W10 to a System 9 CPU Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumper.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Locating jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumped.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Temporarily jumpering W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System9JumperTemporary.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Alternate for jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games are known to &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; a bit. The &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; is caused by electromagnetic interference from the lamp matrix insinuating itself on the sound circuit. To minimize the interference, ensure all boards are screwed tightly to the backbox ground plain, with all screws installed.  This improves grounding and will help minimize &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another cause of hum could be an inconsistent +5DC volts from the power supply. An indicator of this being the cause of hum would be the game occasionally resetting as well.  Replacing caps C8 and C10 on the power supply may correct this issue.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the version of System 11 board, an 11C board or anything else (nothing, 11A, and 11B), sounds and music are handled with different specifics.  With the first 3 generations of MPU boards, the sounds originate from the MPU board and the background music originates from the sound board.  With the 11C board, both sounds and music are on the sound board, as the MPU no longer has a sound section populated on it. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume POT value=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 5K linear volume POT. Others shipped with a 10K linear volume POT. Both POT values work fine and either can be used to replace a failed volume POT.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 50 ohm resistor soldered to the volume POT. It is thought that this resistor was included so that the volume could never be turned to zero. For route games, at least some sound was thought to increase game earning potential. This resistor can be removed or jumpered around to enable turning the sound volume completely off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Boot Up Diagnostic Tones for the D-11297, D-11298, and D-11581 Sound Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11297, D-11298, and the D-11581 sound boards all provide diagnostic tones (&amp;quot;bongs&amp;quot;) at power on.  A single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; means that the sound board is operating properly.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of a bong indicates a problem with the sound board or it&#039;s connections. The possible causes for failure are numerous, including a failed amplifier, missing or incorrect connector placement, missing or noisy (AC ripple) power for a required voltage (-12VDC), failed speakers or the connection to the speakers, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is healthy enough to perform it&#039;s own self-diagnosis, it will attempt to indicate the problem by playing a specific number of bongs, as shown in the tables below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11297 &amp;amp; D-11298 Sound Boards&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U3 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11581 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U5 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Diagnostics Via the MPU Board for Games Prior to 11C=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the upper switch of the two switches on the side of the MPU board will test both the CVSD and DAC on the MPU board.  The first sound is typically sound ROM (on the MPU) specific, and it is a test of the CVSD chip.  The second sound is described as a  &amp;quot;twing&amp;quot;, and it is a test for the DAC.  If no sounds are heard, refer to the potential issues listed above in the previous section.  If one &amp;quot;ring&amp;quot; is heard, it denotes that the U23 RAM chip has failed.  Two or four rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U21 ROM.  Three or five rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U22 ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Connecting the Speaker and Volume Connections for a System 11 MPU Board on the Bench=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS Sys11 Speaker Volume Connection.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Speaker and Non-adjustable Volume Control Connected on a System 11 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the sound on a System 11 MPU on the bench, a speaker and volume control must be connected to connectors 1J15 and 1J16 respectively. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The speaker should connect to pins 2 and 3 of 1J15. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the adjacent pic, a 470Kohm resistor was used in lieu of a volume pot.  Other resistor values can be used, but 470Kohm allows the sound to be set to a comfortable audible level.  Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped into a .156&amp;quot; housing as shown. This resistor/connector set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3 through System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using alligator clip leads to power the board, use special care as to not send +12v down the -12v line (the pins are adjacent to one another).  Sending +12v down the -12v bus will most definitely destroy the 1408 DAC chip (if populated).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Is Very Faint Even at Maximum Volume =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:55536-CVSD.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Two hard to find 55536 CVSD ICs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
While most techs would suspect either a TL082 or a TL084 amplifier (on a pre-DCS sound board) or a 1458 amplifier (on a System 11 MPU) as the cause of this issue, the 55516/55532/55536/55564 CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta-Modulator) can also cause this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isolation to the CVSD is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into sound test.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use an oscilloscope to probe pins 9 and 12. A scope must be used since the signals are too subtle for a logic probe to detect.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 is a clock signal. &lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 12 is a data signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is making sounds that use the CVSD, both pin 9 and pin 12 should show &amp;quot;off nominal&amp;quot; signals. If the CVSD is working correctly, the output at pin 3 should be showing signal also. If it is not, then the CVSD has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Some Sounds Lower Volume Than Others =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11DACChannel.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The sound section of a System 11 MPU and the 2N3904 amplifying transistor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another sound anomaly manifests as some sounds being more faint than others is a failure in the 1408 DAC sound lane channel. In High Speed, for example, &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot; exercises both the 1408 and 55536 sound lanes. Sounds 1, 3, and 5 are all made via the 1408 DAC lane. If those sounds are faint, the issue could be the 10uf capacitor (C8), the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) that is used as a pre-amplifier, the 3.3K resistor (R7), or the 1408 DAC. Eliminating the easy possibilities first, replace the 10uf capacitor. If that doesn&#039;t fix the issue, replace the 2N3904. The 2N3904 may &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot; as failed, but not always. If the issue still remains, replace R7. Lastly, replace the 1408 DAC (U2). An equivalent part that may be used is the DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video, showing the problem and resolution can be viewed [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7fk3PtwvtE here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS_Sys11_1408_flipped_lid.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 1408 in the sound section of a System 11 MPU lost its top!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In another instance, Pin*Bot, all of the sounds were faint, except the last two in test.  This ended up being a bad 1408 DAC.  The last two sounds were unaffected, because the 55516 CVSD chip handled them.  With a visual inspection, the 1408 in the pic could not be determined it was bad, until it was in the midst of being desoldered from the circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Voice callouts are much softer than music/sound or missing completely =====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A and 11B MPU boards were populated with different resistor and capacitor value parts. If an 11A MPU is installed into an 11B game (F-14 into an Earthshaker for instance), it is possible that the voice callouts will be noticeably softer than the other music/sound. The following table details the difference between the two sound mixing sections &#039;&#039;(Thanks to Pinsider &amp;quot;Mneubey&amp;quot;)&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11n_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11 (nothing) sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Resistors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R21 is 12K in 11B, 15K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R22 is 22K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R19 is 56K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R16 is 180K in 11B, 56K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R17 is 270K in 11B, 220K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R15 is 180K in 11B, 43K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R20 is 12K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Capacitors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C10 is 470pf in 11B, 1800pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C11 is 100pf in 11B, 180pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C12 is 470pf in 11B, 1200pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C13 is 4700pf in 11B, 4700pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11b_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11B sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Board D-11581 Mixer Section Resistor Values =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D11581ResistorValues.jpg|500px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Mixer&amp;quot; section resistor values across D-11581 sound board games. &#039;&#039;Data courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A through 11C sound boards were populated with different resistor values. The table shown at left details the differences between the sound mixing sections for each game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the value of R13 will change also. It should be 4.99K for &amp;quot;Fire!&amp;quot; through &amp;quot;Police Force&amp;quot;, and 10K for all other games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Some Music or Garbled Music with a D-11581 Sound Board and 5 Bongs=====&lt;br /&gt;
A sound board booting with 5 bongs indicates a failure of the U20 ROM. While U20 could, in fact, have failed, 5 bongs could also mean that the software can&#039;t access U20. In one such case where 5 bongs were heard, during music test, tests 4 and 6 would play music but the music was garbled and/or incorrect. The root cause was W10/W11 jumper settings on the sound board that didn&#039;t match the ROM size. W10/W11 should be set to the left for 27256 ROMs; to the right for 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Modifying a pre-System 11C Sound Board to use 27512 ROMs (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. Note that W3 is &amp;quot;always IN&amp;quot;. The solder mask over the W3 jumper trace has been removed for clarity. Normally the trace is covered by a dashed white silkscreen line.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3Modified.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. W3 has been cut to enable use of 27512 ROMs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some revisions of the D-11581 sound board will not accept 27512 sound ROMs without modification. By the time that revision C was manufactured, jumpers W10 and W11 were added above U20 to enable use of larger ROMs. Prior to that, jumpers W2 and W3 were implemented, but were of little use since both jumpers tied A15 (pin 1) of each EPROM to +5VDC. Making the modification pictured at right, then installing jumper W2, enables the use of 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jokerz specific sound issue=====&lt;br /&gt;
A special case of interference is present on the Jokerz game, which uses a unique stereo sound board.  A deficiency in its design prevents all of the noise from being eliminated from the board.  Details can be found in the original Williams service bulletin here: [http://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf Jokerz service bulletin at IPDB.org]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Whirlwind Doesn&#039;t play Sound 7 During Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
This particularly annoying issue appears to have no impact during gameplay. The only manifestation is that &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot;, sound 7 doesn&#039;t play. The normal sound is an explosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This issue is caused by old game ROM versions at U26 and U27. Revision PA1 doesn&#039;t send the command to the sound subsystem to play sound 7, even though sound 7 is displayed on the alphanumeric display. Updating U26/U27 to &amp;quot;LA3&amp;quot; as can be found at www.ipdb.org will correct this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:YT.png]] Correct Whirlwind sounds are demonstrated in a YouTube video found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Board Theory of Operation (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated and including jumpers W10 and W11]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Major components of the D-11581 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*68B09E externally clocked CPU, which is also used in all WPC MPU and pre-DCS sound boards&lt;br /&gt;
*68B21 Peripheral Interface Adapter, capable of running at 2Mhz&lt;br /&gt;
*Up to 3 ROMs. All boards can accommodate 27256 ROMs. Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
*6116 RAM (2K bytes). Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate a 6264 RAM (8K bytes)&lt;br /&gt;
*YM2151 sound synthesizer paired with the YM3012 DAC (outputs channel 1 and channel 2)&lt;br /&gt;
*55516 CVSD (continuously variable slope delta) audio encoder, which provides a 3rd audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*1408 DAC (digital to analog converter), which provides a 4th audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*Various 74XX ICs that perform address decoding and chip selection logic&lt;br /&gt;
*1458 pre-amplifiers and TDA2002 amplifiers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11581 sound board shares a lot of board design and architecture of the pre-DCS sound board that was introduced with WPC games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power requirements for the board are supplied via connector J3. The typical sound board power levels are required, 5VDC, 12VDC, -12VDC, and Ground. Three 100uf capacitors reduce noise on the power busses along with several small ceramic caps which filter high frequency noise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Reset&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The on board 68B09E is reset via the external reset signal provided by the MPU board, via connection J4, pin 18. If attempting to operate the board without the MPU board connected, the processor must be manually reset via momentarily grounding pin 37 of the 68B09E.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Clocking&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clocking signal for the board originates at the 8Mhz crystal oscillator. U16, a 74LS74 Dual D-Type FlipFlop divides the clock signal yielding both the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Q&amp;quot;clock signal. E and Q are phase shifted by one half clock cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chip Select Logic&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chip select is accomplished via the normal &amp;quot;memory mapped I/O&amp;quot; method, using U14 (74LS139) and U15 (74LS138). &lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for all three ROMs (U4, U19, U20) is implemented by U14.&lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for the RAM (U5), YM2151 (U3), and the 6821 (U12) is implemented by U15.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;How sounds are produced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are provided via J4, a dual row .100 connector of 20 pins. These sound selects are held &amp;quot;normally high&amp;quot; via a 4.7K/470pf 10-pin bussed SIP pull-up resistor/capacitor (SR1) tied to 5VDC. These SIP resistor/capacitor parts are no longer available. A bussed 4.7K 9-pin resistor network can be used as a replacement. The capacitor feature of the original part filtered high frequency noise from the communication lines. In practice, noise doesn&#039;t impact the interface significantly enough to be of concern.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board will pull the appropriate sound select signals to ground via the 6821 PIA at Uxx. When the appropriate signals are pulled to ground, the PIA is programmed to interrupt the 68B09E processor via the FIRQ and NMI signals. The 68B09E then reads the sound select signals presented at the 6821s input port (PB0 through PB7) via the processor data bus (D0 through D7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor then employs the 4 sound channels available to it, along with encoded sound files contained in the ROM images, to create the intended sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Where Do The Sounds Come From?====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections can be used to ensure that all sounds are played by the Williams combined MPU and Sound Board System.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Comet|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-2m7vKCeg2A Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Sorcerer || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pXacwGqv5C4 Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Shuttle || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/B-gsuEw1jgU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Cats || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-JJKPvMBplg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bally Game Show || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/vwA4FST62ug Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Banzai Run || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/6D87Z2iUsv0?si=x8BKbDsxHFI_yodb Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight 2000 || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/uyJlxc2ewtY Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Cyclone || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pEdSxFu1Zio Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Diner || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rwCLpG5jU2I Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Earthshaker || [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eH0FVvbBQUQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Elvira &amp;amp; the Party Monsters || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/OS_SRCNaMwg?si=6Wop4YLK2wa6Mco4 Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| F-14 Tomcat || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rG26I-oDK6E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Fire! || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/dXKRw1GqUcQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| High Speed || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/yAmJzD9EAZA Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| PinBot || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/CoVvhwggLfU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Police Force || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/Em63v0-zJKk?si=gt3qD2jLsqJFdwlW Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Pool Sharks || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/gceZEgLMaDQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Rollergames || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/tN-Ns9eh8Pg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Station || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/9XERXpVGCsY?si=jSNjikeN1nM6GeQy Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Swords of Fury || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/u6baQrse5LI?si=3Y85cpAXqDF5_Qis Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Taxi || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/P7DIs5djK-E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Whirlwind|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Circuit Schematics Error ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Correct wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems Incorrect.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Incorrect wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.  Some of the early System 11 manuals show incorrect wiring for the EOS switch.  One of the EOS switch wires should be soldered to the center lug of the coil.  However, the other wire should be soldered to the lug with the non-banded side (anode) of the diode, not the lug with the banded side (cathode) of the diode.  Manuals which have this misinformation are High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings. Millionaire and Pinbot appear to be fine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Electrical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;50V Flipper Power Board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;Aux Power Supply&amp;quot; board that was introduced with these games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and 11 flipper circuitry is identical to all prior Williams System 3-7 games. The design had not changed from even the old electro-mechanical flipper implementation when the End of Stroke switch was introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yes, Williams used serial wound coils from High Speed to Millionaire and then converted to parallel wound coils beginning with F-14 TomCat and throughout the rest of the System 11 run and into the WPC run. But the basic operation of System 9/11 coils remained &amp;quot;EM-like&amp;quot; whether serial or parallel wound.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are only three switches that can affect the electrical operation of a System 11 flipper, including strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Switches inside the Flipper Enable relay (K1), located on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The cabinet flipper button switches.&lt;br /&gt;
#An End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch associated with each flipper coil and integrated into the flipper mechanism assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Series Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the flipper coil. The EOS switch is closed, creating a short across the low power windngs, that removes resistance of the low power windings from the circuit. Only the smaller number of high power windings are &amp;quot;in circuit&amp;quot; with the EOS switch closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at the low resistance high power windings of the coil. The coil plunger is pulled into the coil and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, removing the short across the low power windings, and placing them in series along with the high power windings. Together, the total resistance of the coil becomes the sum of both the low power and the high power windings. With more windings, the coil will have higher resistance and hence, lower power. The combined high resistance windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelWoundFlipperDiagram.jpg|left|400px|thumb|Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Diagram courtesy of Chris Hibler.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the low power windings of the flipper coil. And, since the EOS switch is closed, the high power windings also have a path to ground. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;both&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; of the coil parallel windings. Since electrical current &amp;quot;takes the path of least resistance&amp;quot; the lower resistance high power winding takes most of the current and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, breaking the path to ground for the high power windings. The high resistance low power windings remain in circuit, and provide &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; power to the flipper coil. The high resistance low power windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Mechanical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Return springs&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured nylon bushing&lt;br /&gt;
*Insufficient gap between nylon bushing and crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat damaged coil&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil sleeve&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil stop&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper shaft slipping within crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Others?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 Display Single AlphaNumeric Character Won&#039;t Light===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11B Bridged Header.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A solder bridge on the &amp;quot;digit strobe&amp;quot; connector.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the category of &amp;quot;things that will make you crazy&amp;quot;, the solder bridge pictured at left shorted pins 8 and 9 on the connector that carries the digit strobes to a System 11 display. This prevented one of the digits on the display from ever lighting. It&#039;s always a good idea to examine prior work closely. Assuming the prior tech knew what they were doing is not always valid.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a System 6/7 Speech Board in a Comet===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 CPU with 2732 Speech.JPG|300px|left|thumb|A Modified System 6/7 Speech Board Functioning with a System 9 CPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should the need arise, a System 6/7 speech board can be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified to use 2732 EPROMs] for a Comet.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a Data East MPU Board in a System 11 Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Whaaaat?!?!  Yes, a Data East MPU can be used in a Williams or Bally System 11 game.  However, this is limited to System 11C games only, and only a DE 520-5003-03 (Version 3) MPU can be used.  The reason for this limitation is because games previous to 11C have some or all of the sound section circuitry on the MPU board populated, the 11C does not.  Likewise, DE boards do not have any sound section circuitry located on them by design.  The board swap is not a simple drop in replacement though.  Some minor modifications have to be performed for the DE board to function properly in an 11C game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first hurdle is to properly power the DE board.  Connection 1J17 is where power originates on the 11C board.  The complimentary connection on a DE board is CN17.  The problem is that these connections are keyed differently between the two boards.  1J17 has a key at pin 7, while the key on CN17 is at pin 8.  The safest way to make a connection to CN17 with the 11C game harness is to remove pin 7 on the DE board.  This will have no ill effect, if the DE board is to be placed back into a DE game.  The worst case scenario if pin 7 is removed and the board placed back into a DE game is that the CN17 connector housing could be installed off by one pin, thus shorting the +5v to ground, and blowing the logic voltage fuse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Jumpers for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Correct jumper setting on DE MPU for 11C game ROMs]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Special Solenoid Wire Swap for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Addition harness and Z-connector installed to correct special solenoid drive outputs]]&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the game ROM jumpers have to be set correctly.  Since all 11C games use dual ROMs, jumper setting J4 must be in on the DE MPU, while J5 is out.  Install the 11C game ROMS in the following positions.  U27 (ROM 1) is to be inserted into the 5C socket, while U26 (ROM 2) is installed into the 5B socket.  Notch on the chip / socket is facing to the right.  There is an alternative method.  The code for the dual ROMs can be burned into a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Burning_Dual_ROMs_into_a_Single_5C_ROM single 27512 EPROM.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, there is a problem with how DE boards poll the special solenoid drivers differently than 11C boards.  Two of the drivers are correct (solenoids 17 and 21), while the four others are mismatched.  To overcome this problem, either a harness can be created (DE board to 11C harness) with a Z-connector installed between 1J19 and the game harness, or the 7-pin housing (the 9-pin housing at 1J19 is split with a 2-pin housing and a 7-pin housing) at 1J19 can be repinned.  The benefit of building a harness and adding a Z-connector is that it is easily reversible, if an 11C board is to be placed back into the game at a future time.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following wires will have to be connected to 1J19 / CN19 on the DE board for the game to function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Stock Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Swapped Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || ORG-VIO || ORG-VIO  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || ORG-GRY || ORG-GRY  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || BLU-ORG || BLU-YEL  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || BLU-RED || BLU-ORG  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || Key || None  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || BLU-YEL || BLU-BLK  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || BLU-BRN || BLU-BRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || BLU-GRN || BLU-GRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || BLU-BLK || BLU-RED  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane at Game Start (Pinbot) ===&lt;br /&gt;
Trough and shooter lane switches test alright in switch test.  Ball feeder coil from trough to shooter lane tests fine in solenoid test.  If the motor for the visor is disconnected, and the visor does not cycle at the start of the game, the ball will not kick to the shooter lane.  This may be an issue if one or both of the visor switches are not recognized too.  Not certain what code revision this particular game was running.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane and Drop Target Will Not Reset (Cyclone) ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone UnderPF Fuse 1A 5A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Fuse under the playfield of a Cyclone, which powers solenoids 1A and 5A]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Both the outhole solenoid (1a) and drop target reset solenoid (5a) are the only multiplexed 24v coils in Cyclone.  The power wires for these coils are brown.  For some reason, Williams decided it would be a good idea to put a fuse under the playfield for these coils &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(which is not included in the documentation)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.  The fuse/fuseholder is located just to the right of the spook house subway.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids Are Not Pulsed During Solenoid Test on System 9 Games===&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the enabling switch associated with the special solenoid device.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU energizes a coil 5 times===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Police Force&#039;&#039;&#039; - After the pinball is switched on the ramp diverter coil engages 5 times. After the game start the diverter coil engages 5 times again. Diverter mechanism doesn&#039;t hold in position. So after the coil is energized the mechanism falls back and so the switch is closed again. Then the software tries another 4 times to resolve the problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; Clean the diverter mechanism and in particular the plastic. Lubricate the plastic lanes!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Elvira and the Party Monsters drop target reset coil blows the lamp matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
The drop target reset coil should be mounted with the solder tabs down. If mounted with the solder tabs up, (toward the playfield) the solder tabs can contact the J-A-M lamp sockets. This blows the lamp matrix ICs on the MPU board by sending coil voltage through the lamp matrix.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_WMS_System_9_Repair&amp;diff=25036</id>
		<title>Leon Borre WMS System 9 Repair</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_WMS_System_9_Repair&amp;diff=25036"/>
		<updated>2025-03-16T19:45:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Repairing Williams system 9 cpu boards&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;[[Image:swash4.gif]]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;First i would like to thank Scott Morash (U.S.A.) He did the testing of the new test eproms on his Williams 9 board. I did not find any board and it was time to correct and replace the old test eprom version. The new version has now a memory test and also a new extra test eprom for the &amp;quot; sound&amp;quot; section of the CPU board .&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;This type of cpu board is really the change between older types 3 to 7 towards the new system 11 board. Only 3 pinballs have been made with this type of board: &amp;quot;Space shuttle , Comet and Sorcerer &amp;quot; All circuits except the power circuits are on this cpu board. So the cpu circuits, drivers for solenoids and lights, and sound (which has sound and speech) are on it. (However there is a small extra board attached for the speech.) Because this model was too complicated and to be able to add some extra output chips (PIA&#039;s), Williams has split up the design and from this system 11 has been made.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;When I first got a board of this type ,I used the schematics of &amp;quot; Sorcerer&amp;quot; The schematics for all System 9 boards are the same so find the schematics here,........... &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;[[Image:pinaqua.gif|link=File:schem9.pdf]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:swash1.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The goal of this article is to do basic repair on the cpu board itself and the 4 connected PIA&#039;s (6821). These PIA&#039;s pass all signals to the external circuits, displays, coils, lights, and via the switch matrix to all switches. The PIA on U15 is the source off the switch matrix. Afther these test are ok, we do a memory test. And if there is doubth about the sound section, there is now a second test eprom that checks the separated chips of the sound section. The sound section has his own CPU , extra PIA and memory. These the amplifier chip can be tested using the new added extra test eprom . If the cpu memory and PIA&#039;s are working, then it&#039;s almost sure that the pinball machine will start and you can repair the rest (if necessary) using the build-in tests. If he still doesn&#039;t start-up then you&#039;ll have to check the program chip . You first have to check if all voltages are ok, which you can do with your dmm.. Don&#039;t forget to do this first !!&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:swash1.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Start&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;So your pinball machine does not start, but you checked all voltages and they&#039;re correct..&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;First remove the cpu board from the machine. If you&#039;re not sure where all connectors go, be sure to label them first ! Once the board is out of the machine, connect it to 5 volts. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Gnd connected at J17 pins 1,2 or3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt; 5V at J17 pin 4,5 or 6&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Additionally tie 5V from J17 pin 4,5 or 6 to anode of ZR1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:will9.jpg|200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;At the right side of the batteries you&#039;ll find the zener diode ZR1, and below it connector 1J17. Connect voltages to this connector, ground goes to pin 3, 5 volts goes to pin 4. You can also get 5 volts at pin 5 and connect this to the top of the zener diode. This can be seen on the picture. You also see a &#039;0&#039; on the display in the center off the board.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:swash1.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Usage. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;First you need my test eprom which you plug into U20. (remove the rom and keep it safe!) Like described in my other articles, the test eprom has a non-blocking test which brings all outputs of all 4 PIA&#039;s high ( 5) and then low (ground) again. Using a dmm or logic tester you&#039;re able to check all outputs and see if there&#039;s one not working. If none of the PIA&#039;s works then the problem is more general. The display is connected to the PIA in U5, while the test program runs it will show alternating a 0 and a 7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;NOTE: MAKE CERTAIN THAT JUMPER W11 IS REMOVED AND W12 IS INSTALLED.  OTHERWISE, LEON&#039;S TEST ROM WILL NOT RUN.  Typically, Sorcerer is the only game that uses W11 for the second game ROM at U19.  All others only use U20.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The test-eprom for the System 9 boards is an eprom 27128. The program for system 9 tests can be downloaded here, it is a zip file .. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; [[Image:pinaqua.gif|link=File:will9ver128.zip]] &amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The checksum of this test rom is EDA2 . If you don&#039;t have an Eprom-programmer , find someone to burn the rom for you.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;[[Image:swash1.gif]]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;So if you&#039;re lucky then the display will show alternating 0 and 7 so you know the test is working correct. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;There are 4 PIA&#039;S ( U15, U14, U4 en U5), all pins from 2 to 17 have to go from 0 to 5 volt, which can be seen with a dmm. There are however a few exceptions ! PIA U5 pin 9 is not moving , this pin is grounded by a jumper. On PIA U15 are PA0 to PA7 used as input (pins 2 to 9), to see these move you&#039;ll have to connect pins 1 to 9 of connector 1J10 to ground.. then you can see the outputs move. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If one pin doesn&#039;t move, short it to the pin next to it. If they now both go up and down, then the PIA is broken, if they both don&#039;t move anymore, then or the PIA is broken, or there&#039;s a short on the exit which didn&#039;t move from the start. To know which of the two possibilities you have, you&#039;ll have to deconnect the output ( by cutting the trace (and repairing it afterwards again !!)) and check if he then goes up and down. If so then there&#039;s a short, if not then it&#039;s certainly the PIA which is broken.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot;&amp;gt;......Worst case scenario...&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If the program doesn&#039;t run then we&#039;ll have to start at the source, which is the CPU-chip-6802 itself. First replace the 6802, this is the fastest.. Use a 6802 of which you are sure it is working fine (or a new one). Same problem ? The jumper is at W12 and not at W11? Then check pins 2, 6 and 40, which have to be positive (around 4 volts). On pin 39 is a clock signal, on pin 4 IRQ; on pin 5 the VMA signal, and on pin 37 the E signal (synchro for external parts). These all have to be around 2 to 3 volts (measured with a dmm). They&#039;re alternating signals of which you can find some images below.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&amp;gt;[[Image:clock.jpg|200px]]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&amp;gt; [[Image:vma.jpg|200px]]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The clock signal .....................and the VMA signal&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&amp;gt;[[Image:esig.jpg|200px]]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The E signal is almost identical to the IRQ signal..&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If you find between these 7 signals not the right readings, then you have found the problem. Use the schematic to check where the signal comes from and trace it back to its source. This shouldn&#039;t be too hard, the circuits aren&#039;t complex. But you&#039;ll need the schematics....&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The long road... or not!&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;What&#039;s left are the other outputs of the cpu, address lines (pins 9 to 25, except pin 21 which is ground!) and data lines (pins 26 to 33), but also the selection circuit off the test eprom U20 and the selection circuit of the pia&#039;s. If the program doesn&#039;t work this can be because the test-chip isn&#039;t being found by the cpu, or the pia&#039;s haven&#039;t been found.... How to solve this ? amazingly simple !!!!&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;It&#039;s useless to give you the signals which you would find if the cpu works, as this is not the case. There I found this solution for. Remove the test-eprom from the board and start the board again. The cpu will now work without a program, and run through all its addresses from 0000-0000-0000-0000 to FFFF-FFFF-FFFF-FFFF over and over again.. With this we can continue: all address lines should move. Measure pins 9 to 25 (except pin 21, which is ground), you should get 2 volts on each. Now we&#039;ve checked all address lines. Now we&#039;re almost 100% sure the cpu works. If some pins don&#039;t move then it means they have a short. To test this, bend the pin up, plug the cpu chip back in and test.. if it works now then there&#039;s a short on this address line. Trace this by cutting the trace in several places until you find the chip which causes the error. The only thing which remains that can be wrong is the selection of the program chips or the PIA&#039;s, which we will check now.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The chip selection&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;We still work without prgram chip. Because the board goes through all addresses, every selectrion address of every PIA is also encountered. Selection pulses arrive on pins 22, 23, 24, 25, 35 and 36 of the pia&#039;s. You should find alternating signals, because the positive or negative side of the signals can varie in value, it&#039;s best to use the logical test-light which I have described in my page with &amp;quot; Tips and tricks &amp;quot; on my website. It&#039;s not always possible to check with a dmm, because some signals are very close to 5 volts, ( only a few milliseconds at 0 volt!!) so you don&#039;t see them alternate. With a test light however, both leds are working, one more then the other, but they have to light both.. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The selection is being continued within the chips by the connected lower addresses, but we have already checked the address lines so we&#039;re sure about those.. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;A final case, if something is wrong with one or more data lines. If the above tests are ok, put the test eprom back in U20. The program will run but no data arrives at the pia&#039;s. Data lines of the 6802 pin 26 to 33 should move and measure 2 to 3 volts. Is one missing then check for a short. Don&#039;t forget that the 6802 has already been replaced so this can not be the source, so we have to have a short on a data line. Can be checked fast by bending the pin of the output upwards and check if the signal now is there on the pin.. If so then there&#039;s a short and the buffer is broken, because all data signals go through U23 which buffers them. Inputs are pins 11 to 18 and outputs pins 2 to 9. If the signals go in but don&#039;t come out, then the buffer is broken. If one or two signals don&#039;t exit, then probably there&#039;s a short on these outputs. If that&#039;s the case, you&#039;ll have to interrups a data line temporary and check which IC is the source of the short.. This takes a lot of time, but it really is the worst case...&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Now we&#039;ve finished and with this method you&#039;ve got about 95% chance that the basic parts of the cpu work and the pinball starts-up .... good luck!!&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Remark&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Why don&#039;t we have to check the addresses when they arrive on the pia&#039;s ? same for data lines ? Because there are 4 pia&#039;s, the chance is almost 0 that none of the addresses arrive when we check if they leave the cpu.. same for the data lines.. there&#039;s only doubt in the address and data lines which arrive on the eprom in U20. This eprom is in a socket which may have bad contacts.. So do check the socket for bad contacts.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Memory check: &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Added in June 2005.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;To launch the memory test just push the SW1 located near 1J14. The alternating 0/7 on the display will stop ( can stop on 7 or on 0 depending at wich moment you push).Afther a short while it restarts 0/7/0/7..This means memory chip U 18 is ok.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If the display remains on a steady 7 or 0 the memory test indicates a memory fault. Nevertheless the memory test is running continously . We can check if the signals coming to the memory chip are ok. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Testing the sound section:&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The sound section on the CPU board contains a separated CPU chip ( U11) a PIA ( U13) a memory chip ( U12) the sound eprom at U49, the amplifier is U59 and the D/A converter at U48 .&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;To test this circuitry we place a new test eprom in U49 .&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Find the image here , it is to burn into a 27128 ..... &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; [[Image:pinaqua.gif|link=File:soundtest128.zip]]&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; The checksum of this test eprom is FC3E. You can use this test eprom also to test the sound section on a Williams type 11 CPU board. ( see the pages for Williams type 11 repair) &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Before powering up the board, place back the normal game rom at U20 to avoid conflicts with the running test program. Afther power up check if the test is running at pin 15 of U11, the signal there is constantly changing from 0 to 5 volts. If not the program is not running. On the CPU chip ( U11) check the basic signals coming to the cpu chip , like the clock and reset are the same as the ones at the &amp;quot; normal&amp;quot; cpu so as that one was running ok , these signals must to be ok. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Now we suppose the program is running , test the output pins of the PIA ( U13) pins 10 to 17 they have to &amp;quot; dance&amp;quot; between 0 and 5 volts. Pins 2 to 9 will not move they are hold at 0 volt by a direct connection to the outputs of PIA U4. If the pins 10 to 17 do not move ,check first the selection signal of the PIA ( U13) at pin 23, we need pulses there . If ok change the PIA . If not check the selection chip at U8. Inputs are at pins 1,2,3 and 4 you need pulses at all 4. The output is at pin 14. Only pin 14 can be at 0 volt all others have to be a steady 5. If there is another pin coming to 0 volt the input is bad , if all stay at 0 or 5 volt the chip is bad. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;I assume your PIA is working fine now, We now can proceed to check the amplifier and D/A circuitry.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;To produce some sound, and test these we need 12 and -12 volt , Use an old PC power unit this tensions and the 5 volt are all coming from such a power unit. The following connections are needed&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; 12 at pin 9 of 1J17. -12 at pin 8 of 1J17, a loudspeaker ( 8 ohms) at pins 1 and 4 of 1J15, place jumper W10, and finally as we have no volume potmeter , jumper pins 1 and 2 of 1J16 , this will give us full sound.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; When connecting 12 volts always remove the temporally jumper between 5 and Z1.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;At power up if all is ok you hear this ........ &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;[[Image:pinorang.gif|link=File:toktak.wav]]&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Sound like a rapid heart-beat, that is the transistion from 5 to 0 volts ...&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If not check first the amplifier, touch with your finger pin 2 of 1J16. A loud humm should be the result.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If not replace the amplifier U59.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If the amplifier is ok and still no sound replace the D/A converter at U48.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Checking the sound memory at U12.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Push the SW2 button once ( SW2 is near 1J16) . The outputs of the PIA come to an halt and the sound will stop for a short while, then restarts , this means the memory is ok. If the sound does not restart the test is running continously on the memory test. Check the signals at the memory chip. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If the signals are ok , replace the 6810 memory chip.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Before placing back the board in the machine do not forget to remove W10 again !!! &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_WMS_System_9_Repair&amp;diff=25035</id>
		<title>Leon Borre WMS System 9 Repair</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_WMS_System_9_Repair&amp;diff=25035"/>
		<updated>2025-03-16T19:26:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: &lt;/p&gt;
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&lt;div&gt;&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Repairing Williams system 9 cpu boards&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;[[Image:swash4.gif]]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;First i would like to thank Scott Morash (U.S.A.) He did the testing of the new test eproms on his Williams 9 board. I did not find any board and it was time to correct and replace the old test eprom version. The new version has now a memory test and also a new extra test eprom for the &amp;quot; sound&amp;quot; section of the CPU board .&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;This type of cpu board is really the change between older types 3 to 7 towards the new system 11 board. Only 3 pinballs have been made with this type of board: &amp;quot;Space shuttle , Comet and Sorcerer &amp;quot; All circuits except the power circuits are on this cpu board. So the cpu circuits, drivers for solenoids and lights, and sound (which has sound and speech) are on it. (However there is a small extra board attached for the speech.) Because this model was too complicated and to be able to add some extra output chips (PIA&#039;s), Williams has split up the design and from this system 11 has been made.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;When I first got a board of this type ,I used the schematics of &amp;quot; Sorcerer&amp;quot; The schematics for all System 9 boards are the same so find the schematics here,........... &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;[[Image:pinaqua.gif|link=File:schem9.pdf]]&lt;br /&gt;
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[[Image:swash1.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The goal of this article is to do basic repair on the cpu board itself and the 4 connected PIA&#039;s (6821). These PIA&#039;s pass all signals to the external circuits, displays, coils, lights, and via the switch matrix to all switches. The PIA on U15 is the source off the switch matrix. Afther these test are ok, we do a memory test. And if there is doubth about the sound section, there is now a second test eprom that checks the separated chips of the sound section. The sound section has his own CPU , extra PIA and memory. These the amplifier chip can be tested using the new added extra test eprom . If the cpu memory and PIA&#039;s are working, then it&#039;s almost sure that the pinball machine will start and you can repair the rest (if necessary) using the build-in tests. If he still doesn&#039;t start-up then you&#039;ll have to check the program chip . You first have to check if all voltages are ok, which you can do with your dmm.. Don&#039;t forget to do this first !!&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[Image:swash1.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Start&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;So your pinball machine does not start, but you checked all voltages and they&#039;re correct..&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;First remove the cpu board from the machine. If you&#039;re not sure where all connectors go, be sure to label them first ! Once the board is out of the machine, connect it to 5 volts. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Gnd connected at J17 pins 1,2 or3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt; 5V at J17 pin 4,5 or 6&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Additionally tie 5V from J17 pin 4,5 or 6 to anode of ZR1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[Image:will9.jpg|200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;At the right side of the batteries you&#039;ll find the zener diode VR1, and below it connector 1J17. Connect voltages to this connector, ground goes to pin 3, 5 volts goes to pin 4. You can also get 5 volts at pin 5 and connect this to the top of the zener diode. This can be seen on the picture. You also see a &#039;0&#039; on the display in the center off the board.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[Image:swash1.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Usage. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;First you need my test eprom which you plug into U20. (remove the rom and keep it safe!) Like described in my other articles, the test eprom has a non-blocking test which brings all outputs of all 4 PIA&#039;s high ( 5) and then low (ground) again. Using a dmm or logic tester you&#039;re able to check all outputs and see if there&#039;s one not working. If none of the PIA&#039;s works then the problem is more general. The display is connected to the PIA in U5, while the test program runs it will show alternating a 0 and a 7.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;NOTE: MAKE CERTAIN THAT JUMPER W11 IS REMOVED AND W12 IS INSTALLED.  OTHERWISE, LEON&#039;S TEST ROM WILL NOT RUN.  Typically, Sorcerer is the only game that uses W11 for the second game ROM at U19.  All others only use U20.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The test-eprom for the System 9 boards is an eprom 27128. The program for system 9 tests can be downloaded here, it is a zip file .. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; [[Image:pinaqua.gif|link=File:will9ver128.zip]] &amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The checksum of this test rom is EDA2 . If you don&#039;t have an Eprom-programmer , find someone to burn the rom for you.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;[[Image:swash1.gif]]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;So if you&#039;re lucky then the display will show alternating 0 and 7 so you know the test is working correct. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;There are 4 PIA&#039;S ( U15, U14, U4 en U5), all pins from 2 to 17 have to go from 0 to 5 volt, which can be seen with a dmm. There are however a few exceptions ! PIA U5 pin 9 is not moving , this pin is grounded by a jumper. On PIA U15 are PA0 to PA7 used as input (pins 2 to 9), to see these move you&#039;ll have to connect pins 1 to 9 of connector 1J10 to ground.. then you can see the outputs move. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If one pin doesn&#039;t move, short it to the pin next to it. If they now both go up and down, then the PIA is broken, if they both don&#039;t move anymore, then or the PIA is broken, or there&#039;s a short on the exit which didn&#039;t move from the start. To know which of the two possibilities you have, you&#039;ll have to deconnect the output ( by cutting the trace (and repairing it afterwards again !!)) and check if he then goes up and down. If so then there&#039;s a short, if not then it&#039;s certainly the PIA which is broken.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot;&amp;gt;......Worst case scenario...&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If the program doesn&#039;t run then we&#039;ll have to start at the source, which is the CPU-chip-6802 itself. First replace the 6802, this is the fastest.. Use a 6802 of which you are sure it is working fine (or a new one). Same problem ? The jumper is at W12 and not at W11? Then check pins 2, 6 and 40, which have to be positive (around 4 volts). On pin 39 is a clock signal, on pin 4 IRQ; on pin 5 the VMA signal, and on pin 37 the E signal (synchro for external parts). These all have to be around 2 to 3 volts (measured with a dmm). They&#039;re alternating signals of which you can find some images below.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&amp;gt;[[Image:clock.jpg|200px]]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&amp;gt; [[Image:vma.jpg|200px]]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The clock signal .....................and the VMA signal&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&amp;gt;[[Image:esig.jpg|200px]]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The E signal is almost identical to the IRQ signal..&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If you find between these 7 signals not the right readings, then you have found the problem. Use the schematic to check where the signal comes from and trace it back to its source. This shouldn&#039;t be too hard, the circuits aren&#039;t complex. But you&#039;ll need the schematics....&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The long road... or not!&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;What&#039;s left are the other outputs of the cpu, address lines (pins 9 to 25, except pin 21 which is ground!) and data lines (pins 26 to 33), but also the selection circuit off the test eprom U20 and the selection circuit of the pia&#039;s. If the program doesn&#039;t work this can be because the test-chip isn&#039;t being found by the cpu, or the pia&#039;s haven&#039;t been found.... How to solve this ? amazingly simple !!!!&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;It&#039;s useless to give you the signals which you would find if the cpu works, as this is not the case. There I found this solution for. Remove the test-eprom from the board and start the board again. The cpu will now work without a program, and run through all its addresses from 0000-0000-0000-0000 to FFFF-FFFF-FFFF-FFFF over and over again.. With this we can continue: all address lines should move. Measure pins 9 to 25 (except pin 21, which is ground), you should get 2 volts on each. Now we&#039;ve checked all address lines. Now we&#039;re almost 100% sure the cpu works. If some pins don&#039;t move then it means they have a short. To test this, bend the pin up, plug the cpu chip back in and test.. if it works now then there&#039;s a short on this address line. Trace this by cutting the trace in several places until you find the chip which causes the error. The only thing which remains that can be wrong is the selection of the program chips or the PIA&#039;s, which we will check now.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The chip selection&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;We still work without prgram chip. Because the board goes through all addresses, every selectrion address of every PIA is also encountered. Selection pulses arrive on pins 22, 23, 24, 25, 35 and 36 of the pia&#039;s. You should find alternating signals, because the positive or negative side of the signals can varie in value, it&#039;s best to use the logical test-light which I have described in my page with &amp;quot; Tips and tricks &amp;quot; on my website. It&#039;s not always possible to check with a dmm, because some signals are very close to 5 volts, ( only a few milliseconds at 0 volt!!) so you don&#039;t see them alternate. With a test light however, both leds are working, one more then the other, but they have to light both.. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The selection is being continued within the chips by the connected lower addresses, but we have already checked the address lines so we&#039;re sure about those.. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;A final case, if something is wrong with one or more data lines. If the above tests are ok, put the test eprom back in U20. The program will run but no data arrives at the pia&#039;s. Data lines of the 6802 pin 26 to 33 should move and measure 2 to 3 volts. Is one missing then check for a short. Don&#039;t forget that the 6802 has already been replaced so this can not be the source, so we have to have a short on a data line. Can be checked fast by bending the pin of the output upwards and check if the signal now is there on the pin.. If so then there&#039;s a short and the buffer is broken, because all data signals go through U23 which buffers them. Inputs are pins 11 to 18 and outputs pins 2 to 9. If the signals go in but don&#039;t come out, then the buffer is broken. If one or two signals don&#039;t exit, then probably there&#039;s a short on these outputs. If that&#039;s the case, you&#039;ll have to interrups a data line temporary and check which IC is the source of the short.. This takes a lot of time, but it really is the worst case...&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Now we&#039;ve finished and with this method you&#039;ve got about 95% chance that the basic parts of the cpu work and the pinball starts-up .... good luck!!&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Remark&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Why don&#039;t we have to check the addresses when they arrive on the pia&#039;s ? same for data lines ? Because there are 4 pia&#039;s, the chance is almost 0 that none of the addresses arrive when we check if they leave the cpu.. same for the data lines.. there&#039;s only doubt in the address and data lines which arrive on the eprom in U20. This eprom is in a socket which may have bad contacts.. So do check the socket for bad contacts.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Memory check: &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Added in June 2005.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;To launch the memory test just push the SW1 located near 1J14. The alternating 0/7 on the display will stop ( can stop on 7 or on 0 depending at wich moment you push).Afther a short while it restarts 0/7/0/7..This means memory chip U 18 is ok.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If the display remains on a steady 7 or 0 the memory test indicates a memory fault. Nevertheless the memory test is running continously . We can check if the signals coming to the memory chip are ok. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;6&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Testing the sound section:&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;The sound section on the CPU board contains a separated CPU chip ( U11) a PIA ( U13) a memory chip ( U12) the sound eprom at U49, the amplifier is U59 and the D/A converter at U48 .&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;To test this circuitry we place a new test eprom in U49 .&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Find the image here , it is to burn into a 27128 ..... &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; [[Image:pinaqua.gif|link=File:soundtest128.zip]]&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; The checksum of this test eprom is FC3E. You can use this test eprom also to test the sound section on a Williams type 11 CPU board. ( see the pages for Williams type 11 repair) &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Before powering up the board, place back the normal game rom at U20 to avoid conflicts with the running test program. Afther power up check if the test is running at pin 15 of U11, the signal there is constantly changing from 0 to 5 volts. If not the program is not running. On the CPU chip ( U11) check the basic signals coming to the cpu chip , like the clock and reset are the same as the ones at the &amp;quot; normal&amp;quot; cpu so as that one was running ok , these signals must to be ok. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Now we suppose the program is running , test the output pins of the PIA ( U13) pins 10 to 17 they have to &amp;quot; dance&amp;quot; between 0 and 5 volts. Pins 2 to 9 will not move they are hold at 0 volt by a direct connection to the outputs of PIA U4. If the pins 10 to 17 do not move ,check first the selection signal of the PIA ( U13) at pin 23, we need pulses there . If ok change the PIA . If not check the selection chip at U8. Inputs are at pins 1,2,3 and 4 you need pulses at all 4. The output is at pin 14. Only pin 14 can be at 0 volt all others have to be a steady 5. If there is another pin coming to 0 volt the input is bad , if all stay at 0 or 5 volt the chip is bad. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;I assume your PIA is working fine now, We now can proceed to check the amplifier and D/A circuitry.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;To produce some sound, and test these we need 12 and -12 volt , Use an old PC power unit this tensions and the 5 volt are all coming from such a power unit. The following connections are needed&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; 12 at pin 9 of 1J17. -12 at pin 8 of 1J17, a loudspeaker ( 8 ohms) at pins 1 and 4 of 1J15, place jumper W10, and finally as we have no volume potmeter , jumper pins 1 and 2 of 1J16 , this will give us full sound.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; When connecting 12 volts always remove the temporally jumper between 5 and Z1.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;At power up if all is ok you hear this ........ &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;[[Image:pinorang.gif|link=File:toktak.wav]]&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Sound like a rapid heart-beat, that is the transistion from 5 to 0 volts ...&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If not check first the amplifier, touch with your finger pin 2 of 1J16. A loud humm should be the result.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If not replace the amplifier U59.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If the amplifier is ok and still no sound replace the D/A converter at U48.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Checking the sound memory at U12.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Push the SW2 button once ( SW2 is near 1J16) . The outputs of the PIA come to an halt and the sound will stop for a short while, then restarts , this means the memory is ok. If the sound does not restart the test is running continously on the memory test. Check the signals at the memory chip. &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;If the signals are ok , replace the 6810 memory chip.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font size=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; color=&amp;quot;#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Before placing back the board in the machine do not forget to remove W10 again !!! &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=25024</id>
		<title>Williams System 9 - 11</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=25024"/>
		<updated>2025-03-13T00:58:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms sys9 boardset.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 Board Set from Space Shuttle]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingBackbox.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 (nothing) Board Set from High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Boardset.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 11A Board Set from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Jokerz Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11b Board Set from Jokerz! (Note that power supply is a prototype)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sy11B Boardset.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11b Board Set from Transporter the Rescue]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11C_Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|System 11c Board Set from Rollergames]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams system 7 boardset was replaced in 1984 with the system 9 boardset, and then again in 1985 with the system 11 boardset.  Combining the driver board, sound board, and cpu directly onto one board eliminated several design deficiencies of the earlier 3-7 boardsets; mainly the 40 pin interconnector, and extra wiring harness inter-board connectors.  Larger ROMs could be fitted directly onto the boards allowing for more complex rulesets and sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 and System 11 board sets are not 100% compatible. With a fair amount of effort, a System 11 board could be made compatible with a System 9, but it is not worth the extended effort to change the jumpers. It&#039;s far easier to just modify the rom images so that they are plug and play when installed in a System 11 CPU. You can find them already on the ipdb. The primary differences between the System 9 and System 11 board sets are the sound system and rom space.&lt;br /&gt;
(add more info later)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As time went on, the System 11 board set underwent some changes too.  The power supply, sound board, and CPU / driver board have minor changes.  More apparent was the addition of circuit boards.  Starting with the 11a board set, a more complex sound board was added (System 11 sound boards are strictly background sounds only).  Later in the System 11 series, sound functions were partially (11B) or fully removed (11C) from the MPU, and eventually were solely handled by a dedicated sound board. Game-specific interconnect boards and auxiliary power driver boards were introduced in System 11B games.  The interconnect boards acted as a pass-through for switch, lamp, flasher, and solenoid signal lines and circuits. It also allowed circuits with different voltages to share the same power source by using current limiting resistors to drop voltages to the appropriate levels.  All general illumination fuses were moved to this board.  The auxiliary power driver board has the AC relay, which finally centralized the location of it.  Likewise, several fuses, beefier TIP36C transistors, and bridge rectifiers are centralized on the auxiliary power driver board.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|Strike Zone|| 1984 || 1916  || unknown || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light|| 06-1984 || 530 || no speech || || 5610-09563-00 || only a few were made with System 9 boards inside&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Space Shuttle|| 12-1984 || 535 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sorcerer|| 03-1985 || 532 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet|| 06-1985 || 540 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alley Cats|| 10-1985 || 1918 || Unknown ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[High Speed]]|| 01-1986 || 541 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grand Lizard|| 04-1986 || 523 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Road Kings|| 07-1986 || 542 || D-11197-542 (Background music only)  || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinbot|| 10-1986 || 549 || D-11297-549 (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tic Tac Strike|| 11-1986 || 1919 || Unknown ||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Millionaire|| 01-1987 || 555 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11298-555.JPG | D-11298-555]] (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|F-14 Tomcat|| 03-1987 || 554 || D-11298-554 (Used on 1st 5,000 games - Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound) / D-11581-554 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire!|| 08-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire! Champagne Edition|| 09-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
!Aux Power Driver&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big Guns|| 10-1987 || 557 || D-11581-557 || D-8345-557 || D-11583-557 || C-11762 || Uses D-11814 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Space Station]]|| 12-1987 || 552 || D-11581-552 || D-8345-557  || D-11813-552 || C-11762-552 || Uses D-11814-552 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Mine|| 01-1988 || 1920 || None || D-8345-1914 || None || None ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone|| 02-1988 || 564 ||[[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG | D-11581-564]]  || D-8345-557  ||  D-11813-574 || C-11762-564|| Uses D-11814-564 Flash Lamp Resistor Board  || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run|| 05-1988 || 566 || D-11581-566 || D-8345-566 ||D-12247-566 || D-12112 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Swords of Fury]]|| 06-1988 || 559 || D-11581-559 || D-8345-557 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-559 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Taxi|| 08-1988 || 553 || D-11581-553 || D-12246-553 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-553 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Top Dawg|| 11-1988 || 1921 || None || D-12246 || None || D-12313-1921 || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jokerz!|| 12-1988 || 567 || D-12338-567 || D-12246 ||  D-12247-559|| D-12313-567 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Earthshaker]]|| 02-1989 || 568 || [[Media:System 11 Sound Board.JPG | D-11581-568]] || D-12246-568 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-568|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight 2000]]|| 04-1989 || 563 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-585.JPG | D-11581-585]] || D-12246 || D-12247-563 || D-12313-563|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Transporter the Rescue|| 04-1989 || 2008 || D-11581-2008 || D-12246  || D-12247-2008|| D-12313-2008 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Police Force|| 08-1989 || 573 || D-11581-573 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-573|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Shuffle Inn|| 10-1989 || 1922 || None (assumed) || D-12246 (assumed) || None || D-12313-1922 (assumed)||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Elvira and the Party Monsters|| 10-1989 || 2011 || D-11581-2011 || D-12246 || D-12247-2011|| D-12313-2011 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats|| 11-1989 || 575 || D-11581-575 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-575|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mousin&#039; Around!|| 12-1989 || 2009 || D-11581-2009 || D-12246 ||D-12247-2009 || D-12313-2209 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Whirlwind]]|| 01-1990 || 574 || D-11581-574 || D-12246 || D-12247-574 ||D-12313-574 || Uses a C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board to control 5 extra devices || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11C===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Bally Game Show|| 04-1990 || 2003 || D-11581-2003 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2003 || Uses a C-13286 Sound Overlay Lamp Board || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pool Sharks|| 06-1990 || 2014 || D-11581-2014 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2014 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Rollergames]]|| 06-1990 || 576 || D-11581-576 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-576 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner|| 09-1990 || 571 || D-11581-571 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-571 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Radical!|| 09-1990 || 2015 || D-11581-2015 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2015 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude|| 11-1990 || 2016 || D-11581-2016 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2016 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Riverboat Gambler]]|| 11-1990 || 50007 || D-11581-50007 w/ 512K ROMS (assumed) || D-12313-50007|| || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball|| 01-1991 || 20009 || D-11581-20009 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-20009 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Documentation Errors====&lt;br /&gt;
* Error on the [[High_Speed#MPU_Schematics_Error_for_U21_.26_U22|MPU I/O signals for U21 / U22 of High Speed]].&lt;br /&gt;
* [[#Flipper_Circuit_Schematics_Error|Flipper Circuit Schematics Error]] in the manuals for High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Details for board and cabinet schematics System 9-11 games can be found in the game manual or parts catalogs. Some copies can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball] or on [http://www.ipdb.org/ IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Troubleshooting &amp;amp; Reference Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|69-8955 (April 21, 1986)&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-pinball-troubleshooting-reference-manual_16-8955_sys9.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet, High Speed, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
|System 9 games. Also includes Strike Zone shuffle alley game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|D-11581 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Parts Catalogs===&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Parts catalogs also had supplementary updates to add and replace pages as newer games were released after the initial release of the catalogs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1986-1989)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/rvsk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-blue-book_16-9064-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Black Knight 2000, Comet, Cyclone, Earthshaker!, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Jokerz!, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Police Force, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (1989-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/feme/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-red-book_16-9190-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Dracula, Fish Tales, Funhouse, The Getaway, Hurricane, The Machine, Riverboat Gambler, Rollergames, Slugfest, Terminator 2, Whirlwind, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/itjk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Bally-midway-parts-catalog-yellow-book_16-9147-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Atlantis, Black Rose, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Dr. Who, Elvira, Game Show, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Party Zone, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Supplementary service bulletin books were released, which included service bulletins that detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1989&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-Service-Bulletin-Book-1989-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1989.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone, Bonzai Run, Taxi, Earthshaker, Truck Stop, Transporter&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1990&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1990-service-bulletin-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1990.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner, Police Force, Pool Sharks, Rollergames&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1991-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude, Jokerz, Riverboat Gambler&lt;br /&gt;
|This book includes some WPC games&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 eliminated a huge issue with the earlier system 3 through 7 boardsets, the 40 pin interconnect between the MPU and Driver boards.  All circuitry previously separated into MPU, driver, and sound boards was combined into a single MPU board. Satellite boards were still used for displays, speech, and solenoid expansion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with &#039;&#039;&#039;Big Guns&#039;&#039;&#039;, Williams introduced another weak link into their system, the interconnect board. Initial implementations were used to disperse the general illumination between the playfield and backbox. The connectors on interconnect boards were prone to overheating and failure just like prior implementations. At the same time, flash lamp resistor boards were being used. These were created to collocate all of the flashlamp current limiting resistors, and eliminate under playfield flashlamp resistor boards, which had proven themselves problematic in the high heat, high vibration environment under the playfield. Resistors often desoldered themselves and/or vibrated so much that the connection fractured. Flash lamp resistor boards were only used on three games:  Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone. In addition to the interconnect and the flash lamp resistor board, the auxiliary power driver board made its appearance. The auxiliary power driver board housed all of the high current transistors (TIP36c), solenoid and flasher fuses (including discrete flipper fuses), the AC select relay, and the solenoid power bridge rectifiers. The auxiliary power driver board did go through some minor changes, but it was functionally equivalent through the last System 11C game.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Banzai Run, a more standardized interconnect board was created. This interconnect board merged the general illumination interconnect with the flasher driver board. Switch and lamp circuits passed directly through this board as a matter of manufacturing convenience. Later interconnect boards added 3 opto couplers to indicate when the flippers and AC relay were activated (the same circuitry as used in the flipper power section of the WPC-089 -1 Power/Driver board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest advantages of the system 11 board set is its ability to switch one set of coil driver transistors between 2 sets of coils/flashers. This is accomplished via a relay on a separate board called the A/C select relay (the A/C select relay was eventually moved to the auxiliary power driver board starting with Big Guns). The theory is that coils that are less frequently activated will be on the A side of the relay, and that flashers will be on the C side of the relay.  Most of the time during gameplay, the C side is active, enabling the flashers. If the driver transistor for the A/C select relay itself shorts, the relay defaults to the coil side, allowing the game to continue to operate in a reasonable fashion (usually the A side coils are the ball shooter lane, drop target resets, VUK - basically coils that don&#039;t need to be able to operate 100% of the time unlike a slingshot coil or pop bumper coil).  Data East&#039;s board set was essentially a copy of the system 11 board set, but Data East programmed it the opposite way, so that the flasher side of the A/C select relay is active by default. Data East games, when the A/C relay doesn&#039;t operate, just sits there and flashes lamps instead of playing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and early System 11 games do share a disadvantage with the earlier 3-7 board sets, they still utilize special solenoid circuitry. The pops and slings on system 9/11 games do not activate via a switch which is seen by the MPU&#039;s program which fires the coil. Instead, the switches directly fire their associated coils via logic gates on the main board. The main disadvantage with this system is that the solenoids fire continuously as long as their activation switch is closed. A locked on sling or pop will burn out components quickly. It is recommended to add a 1, 1.5, or 2 amp inline fuse to each coil on a directly fired system 11 game. Usually just the pops and slings are direct fired coils. However, other coils were designated to the special solenoids. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games did not use the direct fire solenoid switches. Switches on the switch matrix were used instead. To easily identify games which do not use direct fire solenoid switches, IJ18 on the MPU board will not have a harness connection attached to it.  Likewise, the slingshots and pop bumpers will no longer have a set of scoring switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One way that System 9 games differ from the previous 3-7 board set is that the special solenoids are not controlled by the CPU at all. In other words, the special solenoids are not pulsed during solenoid test, as the physical board architecture does allow for this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The software in system 9-11 games continued with the same machine architecture from system 6 and 7, except for the special solenoids as mentioned above. More ram became available, up to 2k, but no game used over 800 bytes. This is likely due to the lower cost of 6264 RAM than 6116 RAM as was used in early System 9-11 games more than any other reason. Additional diagnostics in the form of switch error checking appeared in system 11. Any switch not activated over 30 games (16 games for flipper switches) would cause an error to be called out at power on. The software was able to compensate for broken switches by designating another switch to perform the same function as the broken switch.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9MPU.jpg |300px|thumb|left|System 9 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9MPUFactoryMod.jpg |300px|thumb|right|These high frequency filter capacitors were added at the factory, and are normal. Their purpose is the snub high frequency noise in the Advance and Auto Up/Down coin door button circuits.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 9 MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a single version of the System 9 MPU in all System 9 games. A few minor modifications to the board may have been made, but it&#039;s essentially the same board for the entire 3 game run of Space Shuttle, Sorcerer, and Comet. The picture at left shows an early board that featured two inductors (copper wound coils that &amp;quot;smooth&amp;quot; DC power) at L1 and L2, adjacent to connector 1J17. Later revisions of the board used &amp;quot;zero ohm&amp;quot; jumpers instead, presumably to reduce cost.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUFront.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 10 MPU component side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUBack.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Williams System 10 MPU solder side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams released a single game using an MPU board designated &#039;&#039;&#039;System 10&#039;&#039;&#039;. The game &amp;quot;4-in-1&amp;quot; ([https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=4-in-1&amp;amp;sortby=name&amp;amp;search=Search+Database&amp;amp;searchtype=quick IPDB link]) was released in 1985 and is more like Pachinko than pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From the Internet Pinball Database:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;&amp;quot;This game is known in Williams documentation as &amp;quot;4-IN-1&amp;quot; but that name never appears on the game itself. A total of 100 games were produced. Each came with four interchangeable playfield overlays for the themes of Baseball, Poker, Football, and Soccer. The operator could change the overlay and Instruction Card, re-option switches, and have a new game in the same cabinet.&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11&#039;&#039;&#039; games used one of four different revisions of the System 11 MPU. The first version of the System 11 MPU was completely self-contained, able to make game sounds on the board. A simple background sound board was used to add some game sounds. Between the baseline revision of the System 11 MPU and the last revision of the MPU (System 11C) incrementally more of the sound processing and sound circuitry was removed from the board (not stuffed).  None of the System 11 shuffle alley games use a separate sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem11CPU.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early System 11 (nothing) MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingLater.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Later System 11 (nothing) MPU. Note extensive alkaline corrosion abatement, NVRAM install, and use of modern reset generator. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11 (nothing) MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This picture shows the early System 11 MPU. A later revision of this MPU, pictured at right, has an additional jumper W16 located between the 7 segment diagnostic display and the relay, and a 4.7K ohm resistor between the 7447 and the resistor DIP. The early PCB on the left has a trace routing error to the sound ribbon cable connector. If you use it with a later system 11A sound card you will get no sound because the sound card doesn&#039;t get reset properly. If you wonder why your High Speed doesn&#039;t beep when turning it on this one is also the culprit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11ZenerDiodeAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes added to the back of the System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were added to the layout of the PCB in subsequent revisions of the board (11A, etc).]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|right|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) incorporated into the board layout and stuffed at the factory on a later board revision. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows six 6.2V zener diodes added to the solder side of a System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were left off the factory silkscreen of the board. Later revisions of the System 11 MPU added them to the component side of the board. Their purpose is to protect the special solenoid switch inputs. Either a ZPY6,2/ZD6,2/1N4735A (1 watt) or ZF5,2/1N5234B (1/2 watt) can be used. This mod is purely optional. In reality the diode doesn&#039;t help much if you short the switch input with the solenoid voltage. In this case the diode and the 7402 are usually damaged and need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, if the System 11 (nothing) MPU is used in a System 11A game or later, pins 6 and 7 of the adjacent connector (J18) must be tied to the ground plane at the edge of the board. These pins provide the ground for the special solenoids. Without the modification they do not work. Some early System 11A pins might not need the mod. If unsure just check if a cable is connected to pin 6 or 7 in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A-PB.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A rare prototype System 11a MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11aTransitionVersion.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Blanking, 5VDC, and Diagnostic LEDs factory installed in a &amp;quot;transition&amp;quot; vintage System 11a MPU. The prior version 7447 (U48) and resistor DIP (U47) has been replaced with a 7407, discrete resistors and LEDs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11TransitionTag.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A prototype System 11a MPU with original label]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11a &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Prototype&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This MPU was only used in Pin Bot. It&#039;s actually a System 11 (nothing) MPU PCB layout, with the  7 segment LED display replaced at the factory with 3 LEDs as used in all later System 11 MPUs (11A/B/C). The latest trace revision of this board also has the ground mod (connect 1J18, pins 6 and 7 to board ground) allowing it to work in any 11A/B/C game without modification. According to a friend it was referred to by the name of 11a instead of 11A by distributors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A late production System 11A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11A MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11A MPU can be used in all System 11 games. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and possibly the amplifier section must be stuffed. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board. On early production system 11A boards, the amplifier section was fully stuffed, just like the original System 11 board. Later in the production of System 11A boards, the amplifier section was not stuffed, just like an 11B board. But unlike System 11B boards, the System 11A board still has the same switch section layout as the original System 11 MPU, making it easy to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 CPU Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11B MPU. Note that a large portion of the sound circuitry, including the TDA2002 amp, was not stuffed in late System 11A boards or any System 11B MPU boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11B MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11B MPU can be used in all System 11 games too. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and all of the sound amplification components must be added to the board. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11C.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C MPU. Note that none of the sound circuitry, including the 6802 processor and 6821 PIA, is stuffed in System 11C MPU boards. All sounds were generated by the sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11C MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11C MPU can be used only in System 11C games since none of the sound processing circuitry was stuffed.  It can be used in games prior to 11C, if the sound section is populated.  However, some of the components needed are rare and / or costly, and there are a fair amount to install.  If there is no other choice but to use this board, it is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU9211.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU004.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The RottenDog &amp;quot;MPU004&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU with sound section overlay]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;RottenDog MPU9211 and MPU004 Aftermarket MPUs&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU9211 (shown at left) was designed to support all Williams System 9 - 11 games. How well the board works across that great breadth of games is somewhat questionable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CVSD used on this board is a CMX639D4 produced by CML Microcircuits. It replaces the 55516 (or 55536) CVSD used at U3 on original System 9 - 11 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU004 (shown at right) was an earlier design thought to support all Data East and System 11 games. Again, how well the board accomplishes this for Williams games is questionable. A significant source of confusion on this board (like all RottenDog boards with DIP switches) is that the DIP switches are labeled opposite of traditional labeling. That is, set all switches to OFF for Williams games, ON for Data East games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDWilliams9211LaterRev.jpg |300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU, later revision]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A later revision of the RottenDog 9211 MPU included a second trim POT to adjust the balance between 1408 DAC sounds and 55536 CVSD sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Picture of the lamp column portion of the lamp matrix of a System 9 MPU board.  Note that the TIP42 drive transistors were removed from this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The lamp matrix is made up of two parts - the lamp columns (drives) and lamp rows (returns).  In most cases, the lamp row consists of eight 2N5060 over-current shunt SCR&#039;s and eight TIP122 drive transistors, while the lamp column consists of eight 2N6427 predrive transistors (WMS sometimes used MPS-A14 instead) and eight TIP42 or TIP42C transistors.  However, there are some instances, as shown in the pic to the left, where the predrive transistors for the lamp columns are 2N6548s.  It is unknown why Williams chose to use these transistors on occasion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The over-current shunt circuit on the lamp row (returns) works by sensing the voltage drop across the 0.4 ohm, 3 Watt resistor on emitter of the TIP122 driver transistor. If a short circuit is present in the lamp row, the short circuit current will result in a higher than normal voltage drop across the emitter resistor. This voltage will trigger the gate of the 2N5060 SCR, causing it to turn on and shunt the base drive to the TIP122 transistor. This will turn off the driver transistor and prevent damage due to excessive current. Note that an RC circuit consisting of a 0.1uF capacitor and 1K ohm resistor is present on the gate of the SCR. This prevents a false trigger of the over-current shunt circuit due to an initial peak current from cold lamp filaments.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Switch Matrix Explained=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System9SwitchMatrix.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The System 9 Switch Matrix circuitry, as found in the Sorcerer manual.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Description&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At regular intervals, say 1 every msec or so, the 6808 microprocessor scans the switch matrix. This is done by pulling one switch column to ground, then sensing the switch row return state. Each row on which ground is detected means that the switch at the intersection of the column grounded and the detected row ground, is closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Hardware Detail&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 writes the column data to the address location occupied by the 6821 at U15 on the board. This causes the 6821 output registers (PB0 – PB7) to propagate the data to a 74LS244 octal buffer at U45. The 74LS244 mirrors that same data at it&#039;s output pins. The data pattern on these output pins will have all bits set to logic “1” except one bit, which will be set to logic zero, or electrical ground. The ground is applied to the base of a 2N3904 transistor (which had been held high by a 4.7K SIP pull-up resistor SR8) where the ground is applied to the switch column (called switch matrix drives on the schematic).&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Closed switches connected to that column will then cause the normally high (via yet another pull up resistor, SR16) gate at a 74LS08 quad NAND gate (U51 and U52) to be pulled to ground. This NAND gate enables the circuitry to detect a switch closure returned via either connector 1J9 or 1J10.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 then “reads” the row returns by reading from the address space occupied by the same 6821 at U15 used to pulse the column strobes earlier. This time it reads 6821 registers PA0 – PA7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the processor knows which column it drew to ground, and it knows which rows were caused to be pulled to ground via closed switches attached to the column. From this information, the closed switches can be identified. Genius. Bania: “I&#039;m tellin&#039; ya Jerry, this switch matrix stuff is gold Jerry, it&#039;s gold!”.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch diode isolates the switch in the matrix. Without this isolation diode, multiple simultaneous switch closures will cause false returns and confuse the processor. A switch diode that is open will always prevent a switch from registering, in the same way that a broken wire or failed open switch would.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jumper Settings and Locations for System 9 &amp;amp; 11 MPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are charts of the jumpers on System 9 &amp;amp; 11 boards.  Rather than listing the boards by their platform (System 11A/B/C), each chart is listed by the numbers stenciled on the circuit boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10749-00 REV. C (System 9)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W2, W5, W6, W7, W9, &amp;amp; W12.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1 / W2|| Below U12  || Microprocessor Internal RAM Enable. W1 IN, W2 OUT when using 6802, reverse when using 6808 || U12 RAM can be removed with 6802 and W1 installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W3||  ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Left of U49 || Country jumper. Remove for German factory settings, add for US factory settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U5 || Along with W7, used to send +12V to opto rows   || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U5 || Along with W6, used to send +12V to opto rows  || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +12v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W9|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +5v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10|| Below U50  || Installed - sounds from CPU board can be played without speech board attached  || Typically not installed, except Strike Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W11|| Below U37 ||  Used when U19 game ROM 2 is used || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| Below U36 || Used to increase U20 game ROM 1 size from 2764 to 27128 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. - (Typically System 11)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, &amp;amp; W7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U48 || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. B (Typically System 11 - Referred to as Prototype System 11a in text above)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU    || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Blanking signal to input &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; of U48 LED decoder chip  || not present on first pcb revision&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12091-00 REV. - (Typically System 11A)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| Below U23 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12206-00 REV. A (Typically System 11B &amp;amp; 11C)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U25  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U25  || only 2K will be used from the factory&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs ||  Remove for German text, add for English text || This jumper is not used in games with 16 digit score displays. Instead, install the U26 and U27 EPROMs for country and game. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| To the left of U24|| Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W18 || Below U23 || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U23 || only 2K will be used. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W19 || Below U23 || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U23 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Combining the System 9 Sound ROM Images====&lt;br /&gt;
Pinside user, &amp;quot;Dumbass&amp;quot;, has created replacement System 9 MPU boards.  One of the new things that he implemented in the board design is a daughterboard that can be mounted to the main MPU, which handles the speech duties.  Therefore, the speech board with its sometimes problematic ribbon cable no longer has to be used.  However, the sound and speech chip code now has to be combined together on a 27256 PROM, which is used at position U49.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
The file [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732] is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[File:Pad.zip]]. Below is how the code should be concatenated for it to work properly.  It is very similar to what is done for the System 9 code to be modified for a System 11 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Space Shuttle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = 0000h&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sorcerer&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = E67Fh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Comet&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum =  F9CCh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Converting the System 9 ROM Images to work in a System 11 MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to create System 11 compatible ROM images from System 9 ROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The file &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;[https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[file:Pad.zip]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 CPU works out of the box with a 27128 EPROM at location U27. You may choose to double the ROM image, creating a 27256 image so that its size is consistent with the other System 11 U27 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove jumper W8 and install jumper W9 on the System 11 CPU to enable sound to work properly. System 11 controls the sound reset via software. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Space Shuttle=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sorcerer=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u21.128 + cpu_u21.128 cpu_u21.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u22.128 + cpu_u22.128 cpu_u22.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.732 + cpu_u20.764 cpu_u20.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.l2.bin + cpu_u20.l2.bin cpu_u20.l2.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.l2.128 + cpu_u20.l2.128 cpu_u27.l2.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sorcerer is the only System 9 pinball game using 2 ROMs which make things complicated for repair. You can use the cpu_u20.128 image in a system 9 CPU jumpered for Space Shuttle or Comet. If you install W12 and remove W11 the CPU will be jumpered for a 27128 EPROM. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Comet=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 /b    &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech 2532.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board Using 2532 PROMs (from Space Shuttle)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|System 9 Speech Board Using 2732 PROMs (from Comet)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The speech board used in the three System 9 games, Space Shuttle, Sorcerer and Comet is essentially the same as the speech board used in System 6/7 games. However the speech board was enhanced during the Space Shuttle run. Four jumpers were added to accomodate either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs. When burning EPROMs, make certain which style of ROM is used.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Early Later.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board - Left unit is from early Space Shuttle, right is from later Space Shuttle]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Only the early Space Shuttles use 2532 EPROMs from the factory. Later Shuttles, Sorcerer and Comet use 2732 EPROMs.  The later speech board is backward compatible. If using such a board, either 2532s or 2732s can be used for the first two System 9 games (or System 6/7 games), provided that the jumpers are set for the appropriate EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the speech board generating speech sounds, it mixes the sound and speech signals via the potentiometer on the speech board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsSystem11BackgroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Background Sound board as found in High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11197 Road Kings Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11197 Background Sound board as found in Road Kings]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsD-11297BackGroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11297 Sound board as found in Pinbot, fully populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11298 Pinbot Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11298 Sound board as found in Pinbot. This version only has U4 populated (U19 is not).  Uncertain why U19 is needed.  Note that the CVSD &amp;quot;lane&amp;quot; of the board is not stuffed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System_11_Sound_Board.JPG|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound board, not completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D-11581-F14.jpg ‎|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound board, completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated, with W10/W11 Jumpers. W10/W11 enable use of 512K sound ROMs as found in all System 11C games like Game Show, Dr. Dude, Pool Sharks, Rollergames, Diner, Radical, and Bugs Bunny]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-12238 Jokerz Sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:JokerzSoundBoardPinOut.png|700px|thumb|right|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only - Connector PinOut]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581SchematicIcon.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Use hyperlink at right to open D-11581 sound board schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581PartsDelta.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Parts missing from partially populated D-11581 sound boards]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Link to:&#039;&#039;&#039; [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|Schematics for the D-11581 sound board]].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The parts shown at right represent the delta from a partially populated D-11581 to a fully populated D-11581. *The value of R13 will vary between 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms) and 10Kohms. If R14 and R15 are 10Kohms, then R13 should be 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms). If R14 and R15 are 20Kohms, then R13 should be 10Kohms.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem11PSPreBigGuns.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Pre-Taxi Power/Regulator Board. This power supply has had the header pins replaced and the 5V filter cap at C10 replaced. Note that this board has the 20A fuse for the GI still installed. This indicates that it is an early System 7 board. The fuse and it&#039;s holder should be replaced by a wire in all System 9 and 11 games]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_B.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply - Revision B (Pinbot)  Note that the top fuse holder just below the large 15000uF capacitor is broken on the left side]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These power supplies use obsolete parts at Q1 (SDS-201) and Q3 (SDS-202). The PCB print was used from Black Knight through Swords of Fury, with slight modifications. Up until and including Fire!, Q1 and Q3 were the obsolete SDS-201 and SDS-202. Starting with some Fire!, the board uses an MJE15030 at Q1 and an MJE15031 at Q3. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-201 at Q1 may be &amp;quot;6557&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9057S&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-202 at Q3 may be &amp;quot;MDS60&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9058S&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlyWMSPowerSupplyTraceRoutingErrorCloseUpAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of the corrected trace routing error on a Fire! power supply board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply (High Speed) Schematics.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There was a trace routing error on the original Fire! power supply pcbs. WMS cut the trace and used a jumper to correct the error. This error was corrected in the PCB layout at the start of &amp;quot;Big Guns&amp;quot; game production.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_E.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS Power Supply - Revision E (Cyclone)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Big Guns and games after, the solenoid and lamp power power sections were no longer stuffed because they were relocated to the Aux Power board. The GI relay is also missing on these boards because discrete GI relay boards were placed under the playfield and/or behind the backbox lamp insert.  By doing this, specific GI strings could be turned on/off versus &amp;quot;all or none&amp;quot; of the general illumination.  This later board has the fuses only for display and 5V power. In a pinch, the unstuffed parts could be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Big Guns, 2 100mA (1/10A) SB fuses are installed just to the left of the power supply in the backbox. These fuses protect the +100V and -100V circuits against shorts. Not all games used 1/10A slo-blo fuses. Some games used 1/8ASB fuses instead. This may have been due to 1/8ASB fuses being more readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics for this power supply also list part numbers MPSD52 and MPSD02. The equivalent part number for an MPSD52 is a 2N5401. The equivalent part number for an MPSD02 is a 2N5551.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Regulator Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSPSSchematic1503015031.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Schematics for Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used from Taxi thru the remainder of the System 11 game production. &lt;br /&gt;
Note that Taxi used an early revision of the board. The placement of some of the resistors and zener diodes in the HV section of that board is different from later boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===50V Flipper Power Supply Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Williams50VPowerSupply.jpg|300px|thumb|left|50VDC power supply as used in System 11 (nothing) and 11A games (C-9939).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games all used the 50V power supply board as pictured at left. This simple board takes 48VAC from the transformer secondary and uses a 35A/400V bridge rectifier to produce about 50VDC. The voltage is smoothed somewhat by a 100uf electrolytic capacitor. The transformer secondary is protected from a short in the bridge rectifier by either a 4ASB or a 5ASB fuse. Be sure to consult the manual for your game for the proper fuse value. Never overfuse a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Power Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
At least two different revisions of the Aux Power Board were used in System 11B/11C games, pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Auxiliary Power Board from Space Station (D-11813-552)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 Power.JPG|400px|thumb|center|Auxiliary Power Board from Earthshaker (D-12247-568)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Interconnect Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Interconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Backbox Interconnect Board from Space Station]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Lamp Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Earthshaker]]&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board was essentially designed for ease of manufacturing and assembly.  When Williams ultimately settled on using the same unit in all games, (give or take some parts here or there), modularity was apparent too.  There was no longer a need to build complex, custom wiring harnesses between the CPU / driver board, backbox insert, and playfield.  The interconnect board remedied this issue.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanzaiRunInterconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Banzai Run]]Although the first four System 11B games, which include Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone use some form of an interconnect board, it wasn&#039;t until Swords of Fury when the interconnect board was used as a standard for the remaining System 11 games.  The interconnect for Banzai Run (shown on the right) is completely different from anything else used by any game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board used in Swords of Fury uses a different part number, D-12185-559, compared to later System 11 games that used part number D-12313-x (x denotes the game&#039;s model number). They are not interchangable. Swords of Fury and Taxi had lane change switches still mounted on the cabinet. With later games lane change switches were removed and two optocouplers at position U2 and U3 (connected to the switch returns) were added to the board. The circuit is essentially the same as was used in early WPC games and enabled elimination of problematic physical lane change switches from the game. Starting with Jokerz, the third coupler at position U1 is used by the game software to check if the A/C relay on the aux power board is working.  U1 transmits information back to the MPU as switch 2 on the switch matrix, provided that the A/C has energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The early versions of the interconnect board were located on the left side of the backbox and positioned vertically.  The more common interconnect boards were located in the backbox positioned horizontally, just below the CPU board.  The later board passes the following circuits:&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp general illumination circuits&lt;br /&gt;
*flipper power and ground&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp columns and rows&lt;br /&gt;
*switch columns and rows &lt;br /&gt;
*flash lamp power&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What differentiates the board from game to game are the resistor values used for the flash lamp power circuits.  In some cases, some of the resistors are left unpopulated and / or a zero ohm jumper is installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (C-8363)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 SS Sorc Master Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|C-8363 Early System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This is the same master display that is used on all System 6A and System 7 games and is used on most System 9 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (D-10749)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10749.jpg|300px|thumb|left|D-10749 Late System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This master display board was introduced during the System 9 run and is mostly found in some of the later Comets that were manufactured.  The major difference between this master display board (D-10749) and the previous master display board (C-8363) is the D-10749 board replaced the card-edge connectors used on the C-8363 with pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any System 9 machine that is wired with card-edge connectors to use a C-8363 master display board can be converted to use a D-10749 master display board by re-wiring to use pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the mapping of the connectors &amp;amp; pins from a C-8363 to a D-10749 to aid in this conversion:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!D-10749 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!C-8363 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 16&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-14&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 15&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-16&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 14&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-17&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 13&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-13&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 12&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-12&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 11&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-15&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-7&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-8&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 10&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 9&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 8&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 7&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-11&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 6&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-10&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 5&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 3&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-7&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-8&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 1&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-1&lt;br /&gt;
|D1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-2&lt;br /&gt;
|C1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-3&lt;br /&gt;
|B1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-4&lt;br /&gt;
|A1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-5&lt;br /&gt;
|D2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-6&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-7&lt;br /&gt;
|C2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-8&lt;br /&gt;
|B2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-9&lt;br /&gt;
|A2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-10&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-18&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-11&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-1&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-2&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-3&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-4&lt;br /&gt;
| +100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-5&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C.&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-6&lt;br /&gt;
| +5 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-1&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C. on D-10749&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 (Discrete Displays High Speed to Pin Bot and Banzai Run)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10877.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-10877WithAlternate7180.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|System 11 Master Display Driver Board with UDN7180 &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot;. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Aaron Gross&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right shows &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot; that replace UDN7180 chips, which were beginning to be become expensive and harder to obtain during the production run. The daughter cards use discrete transistors, much the same way as one version of the older System 3-6 Master Display Panel did. U9, U12, U13, and U14, originally UDN7180s, have been replaced on this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A (Millionaire / Early F-14)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11414-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A Millionaire Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB actually came out of an early F-14 where they were recycled. Millionaire had it fully populated with additional lamp covers. The mounting brackets for the later D-11610 display changed so if you get a replacement for your F-14 first check which one is used in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A/B (F-14 to Swords of Fury)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11610.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A/B 4 7 Digit Segmented Displays Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (Taxi and Police Force)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-2.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B Display Driver Board D-12232-2 for 2 16 digit segmented displays + one external connector for a 7 digit display]]&lt;br /&gt;
Taxi and Police Force uses a D-12232-2 master display with J4 ribbon connector stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Taxi and Police Force. You would need to add U3 (6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connector J4. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (all other WMS 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12232.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B/C Display Driver Board D-12232-1 for 2 16 digit displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11C (Riverboat Gamber)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-3.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C Display Driver Board D-12232-3 for 2 16 digit displays and 2 connectors for 7 digit jackpot displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
Riverboat Gambler uses a D-12232-3 master display with all ribbon connectors stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Riverboat Gambler. You would need to add U3 and U4 (both a 6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connectors J4 and J6. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display. This display can also be used in Police Force and Taxi.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B/C (all Bally 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Bally-L16-Display.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally left side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12502-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally right side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Other Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Overlay Board (C-13287)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlWindSoundOverlayBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams &amp;quot;C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board&amp;quot; as found in WhirlWind.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This relatively simple board was used on Whirlwind only to accommodate 5 additional solenoids (flashers or motors). The board logically sits between the System 11 MPU and the sound board, intercepting data normally sent directly to the sound board, and acting on that data only when specific codes are commanded. The board also relays data not specifically intended for it, on to the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Current Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS C-12493 High Current Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-12493 High Current Driver Board from Earthshaker]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The high current driver board was used on Earthshaker to drive the shaker motor. It was used on several other Bally/Williams WPC games while designated different part numbers.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Space Station Opto Position Board (C-11872)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpaceStationOptoBoardC-11872.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-11872 Space Station Opto Positioner PC Board Assembly]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is unique to Space Station. The &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; at Q1 and Q2 (both 2N3906s) in the picture at left are clear silicone caulk used to dampen vibration on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Remotely Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Flasher Board Pinbot.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Flash Lamp Resistor Board (from Pinbot)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The earlier design of flash lamp resistor board was mounted under the playfield within in the vicinity of the flash lamp circuit(s) that were powered by it.  Each board had a maximum of 4 power resistors (2 per flash lamp circuit).  The higher resistance resistor is 330 ohm 7 watt, while the lower resistance resistor is 5 ohm 10 watt.  The purpose of the larger value resistor is to keep the flash lamp powered with minimal voltage.  This keeps the flash lamp filament &amp;quot;warm&amp;quot;, which puts less of a strain on the flash lamp.  In turn, it is supposed to extend the life of the flash lamp. The smaller value resistor is used as a current limiting resistor which allows the solenoid voltage to be supplied to power the flash lamp.  By powering the flash lamps with solenoid voltage, it eliminates the need for an additional, dedicated secondary transformer winding. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Centrally Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px heights=380px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Flash Lamp Resistor Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Big Guns Resistor Board.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-557(Big Guns)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:CycloneBigGunsFlashlampBoardD-11814-564.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-564 (Cyclone)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS_Space_Station_Resistor_Board_D-11814-552.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-552(Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were used on early System 11B games prior to the use of the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.  The board is located in a very awkward location.  It is screwed to the back of the lower cabinet. Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone all have this board in this location.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistors on the board &amp;quot;eat current&amp;quot; (limit current) since the 13V #89 flash lamps are wired to coil voltage (about 38VDC). When implementing this board, Williams chose to change the wire colors as the circuit passes through the board. Combined with the generally poor Williams System 11 documentation, this makes it tough to track down problems with non-working flash lamps. On the plus side, the wire wound cement resistors on the board do not fail often, probably due to the location of the board (resistor boards located under the playfield have high resistor failure rates due to heat and vibration).  However, they obviously can fail. If there is power at the flash lamp, but grounding the flash lamp transistor does not light the lamp, the associated drive transistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were abandoned after Space Station.  Flash lamp circuits and resistors became integrated into the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====A/C Relay====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early AC Relay.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A/C relay board (early design ie. F-14, Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A/C relay placed on aux power driver board starting with 11B games (later design)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Road Kings, System 11 games make use of what is referred to as an A/C relay.  The purpose of the A/C relay was to drive twice the amount of coils and flashers by using half the amount of drive transistors.  This process is commonly referred to as &amp;quot;multiplexing&amp;quot;.  Typically, if the A/C relay was at rest, the &amp;quot;A side&amp;quot; solenoids would engage.  When the A/C relay was powered, the &amp;quot;C side&amp;quot; flashers would engage. However, there were sometimes solenoids multiplexed with other solenoids.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, High Speed, which does not use an A/C relay, uses 8 discrete drive transistors to drive solenoids / flashers 1-8.  Pinbot, which does use an A/C relay, uses the same 8 discrete transistors to drive solenoids / flashers.  However, a total of 16 solenoids and flashers (A side and C side) are driven.  By employing the use of an A/C relay, the System 11 MPU / driver board could be used for many more years without a &amp;quot;drastic&amp;quot; redesign.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Initially, the A/C relay was located on a small circuit board under the playfield for System 11/11A games.  Likewise, this A/C relay board did not have Molex header connections.  Wires were directly soldered to the circuit board.  Once the Auxiliary Power Driver Board was introduced with the System 11B platform (starting with Big Guns), the A/C relay was moved to this board for all subsequent System 11B/11C games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the example of the A/C relay shown in the pic on the left, the only way to discern that the A/C relay is the highlighted relay board is due to the wire colors soldered to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode Board for Multiplexed Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board. As Found.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diode board as found mounted to the bottom of the playfield (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Diode board from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diodes from diode board moved to aux power driver board starting with 11B games]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Motor Control Board (D-12045)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12045.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams &amp;quot;D-12045&amp;quot; as found in Cyclone, Jokerz!, Riverboat Gambler and Diner.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in 4 Williams Games&lt;br /&gt;
* Cyclone ... for the random award wheel&lt;br /&gt;
* Jokerz! ... for draw poker (the wheel has various cards pictured on it), &lt;br /&gt;
* Riverboat Gambler ... for the backbox roulette wheel and&lt;br /&gt;
* Diner ... for the clock hands count time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board uses a single U-opto to detect the wheel at the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; position. The MPU implements an &amp;quot;open loop control system&amp;quot; stepping the motor to the desired position while assuming that each step was successful. The game flags an issue with the PCB/motor assembly when the software thinks that the wheel should be at the home position but the opto beam hasn&#039;t been broken by the opto interrupter on the back of the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Coils===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Flippers.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Serial wound flipper coils as seen on earlier (pre F-14 Tomcat) System 11 / 11A games (pic from Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Placeholder for Parallel wound flipper coils as seen on later (post F-14 Tomcat) System 11A/B/C games (pic from xxxx)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Parallel_Wound_Flippers.jpg|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for parallel wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later games (starting with F-14 Tomcat) used parallel wound coils, which have 2 diodes on them.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games use different parallel wound flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application.  Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |System 11 Flipper Coils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Color&lt;br /&gt;
!Strength&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11753 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weakest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11722 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weaker ||24-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11630 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Standard ||23-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11629 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Strongest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CoinDoorButtons.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Example System 11 Coin Door Buttons. The Advance button is missing it&#039;s black cap, and yes...that is a bit of soft drink spooge on the bracket.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The coin door buttons for system 9 and 11 games are shown at right. The function of the three buttons is (from left to right in the picture)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset High Score to Date&lt;br /&gt;
*Auto Up/Manual Down&lt;br /&gt;
*Advance&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Function of the Reset High Score to Date is self explanatory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Auto Up/Manual Down (AUMD) button is interpreted by the game software in multiple ways. Starting from attract mode, if the AUMD switch is up, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter audits and adjustments mode. If the AUMD switch is down, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter diagnostic mode. With the AUMD button in the up position during many of the diagnostic tests, the next step in the test will be automatically entered. For example, display test will display each digit on the display in turn. Coil test will advance through each coil. A particular step of the test may be paused on by pressing the AUMD button down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Advance switch moves the diagnostic, audit, or adjustment to the next step (or previous step if the AUMD button is down, except in diagnostic mode).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When in adjustments mode, the credit button is used to zero, turn off, or turn on features.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; One of the adjustment settings (adjustment 69 on High Speed for example) can be used to clear all of the game audits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of all diagnostic tests, the game will enter audits next, and then adjustments.  To exit diagnostics, audits, and / or adjustments, either advance until the last adjustment, or simply turn the machine off.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Transformer Power Selection Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 11 Power Selection Jumpers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys11 Transformer Power Selection.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Typical power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 115VAC (from Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11European220VSelection.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;European power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 220VAC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;1 - Black, 4 - White, 3/6 - Orange.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;Image courtesy of Chuck Sanderson&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Sporadic Problems in General - System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Headers.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Cracked Header Joints and Headers cut too deeply by factory on System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the previous Williams platforms, the System 9 platform is prone to cracked solder joints on the header pins.  Likewise, Williams&#039; board manufacturers had some tendencies to cut the header pins too short on the solder side.  By cutting the pins too short, the cuts partially go through the solder meniscus.  Cutting through the solder meniscus makes a solder joint less reliable, and it may prematurely fail over time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By having cracked solder joints and / or cut solder meniscus, sporadic issues may occur.  To resolve a cracked solder joint issue, the best approach is to completely remove the old solder, and add new solder to the joint.  Due to dirt and contaminants, simply adding solder to the existing joint is not sufficient.  If the header pins are cut too short, an attempt to remove the solder and new solder can be made.  However, in some instances the only resolution is to replace the header pin connector.  It is recommended to use a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-79.asp high quality replacement header].&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Rectifier Fuses====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Fuses_Added_Before_Lamp_Solenoid_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AdditionalFuses.jpg|right|thumb|400px|The updated schematic (from High Speed) showing placement of additional transformer secondary fusing for solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A design flaw carried over from the earlier systems was the lack of fuses between the transformer secondary and the bridge rectifiers used for solenoid and controlled lamp power.  In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game should blow. But that is not always the case. If the primary power fuse fails to blow, the wiring between the transformer secondary and the bridge becomes the fuse. The resulting melted wiring is not pretty!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For games before Big Guns, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp fuse installed (Williams opted to use an 8A normal blo, while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses). For games after Big Guns, an 8A normal blo fuse is already present between the transformer secondary and the controlled lamp bridge. As for the solenoid bridge, the addition of the auxiliary power driver board added fusing to protect this circuit. The 25V and 50V solenoid bridges were added to this board. Both bridges are fused with 4A slo-blo fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem in the Inkochnito Bridge Board.&lt;br /&gt;
Surf on over to http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate to the 12 position wafer connection====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-WMS-System11PSCN1Alternative.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The severely burned wafer connector at Data East equivalent of J1 here has been replaced with parts currently available. Pins 5 and 8 are not populated as those connections are not used.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 position &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector (CN1 or J1 for Williams games), can be replaced with currently available parts, shown at left. The original &amp;quot;wafers&amp;quot; are difficult to find and pricey.&lt;br /&gt;
Part number for the alternate connector is Molex 03-09-2121 or 03-09-2122. &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply Missing 5v Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
If an aftermarket Rottendog WDP011C power supply is missing 5v, and other common causes of a missing voltage have been ruled out, then it&#039;s likely that the 5v regulator at U191 has failed. An available replacement is the Texas Instruments PTR08060 5v regulator from [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/PTR08060WVD Mouser] or [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/PTR08060WVD/1698955 Digikey].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply - Big Guns &amp;amp; Cyclone GI Comes On, Game Doesn&#039;t Boot====&lt;br /&gt;
If using the now obsolete Rottendog WDP011A power supply for Williams Cyclone or Big Guns, the +12v jumper may have to be moved from the bottom jumper location to the top. If a Rottendog equipped Big Guns or Cyclone turns on the GI lights, but the game doesn&#039;t boot, (only the 5v light on the CPU is lit), this is most likely the reason.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 MPU Jumpers===&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, jumpers on the MPU board do not require modification. The default configuration works for all System 11 game ROMs. However, there are 5 exceptions as follows...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W7 - Language Select Jumper&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
W7 is used only in games up to Cyclone. Games with 16 digit alphanumeric displays do not use this jumper. If installed, the game automatically reverts to English after losing the content of the RAM. If a different language is preferred, the &amp;quot;adjustments&amp;quot; menu provides an option to change the default language. Only a few early System 11 game ROMs contained multiple languages. For these games, if W7 is removed, the game generally defaults to German text. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games used language specific ROMs at U26 and U27.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W16 and W17 - Hitachi CPU select&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Hitachi6802.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A Hitachi processor, installed at U15, with W16 cut (lower right of pic)]]&lt;br /&gt;
The W16 jumper, on original System 11 boards, is in a different location and used for backwards compatibility with system 9 boards. There is no need to change it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 11A and later boards:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*W16 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U15, the CPU responsible for most game operation.&lt;br /&gt;
*W17 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U24, the CPU for the sound subsystem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These two jumpers are used to indicate the manufacturer of the 6802/6808 microprocessor since the clock circuit of Hitachi microprocessors is different from the clock circuit of other manufacturers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If U15 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W16. &lt;br /&gt;
If U24 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W17.&lt;br /&gt;
Otherwise, W16 and W17 should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Hitachi microprocessor can be used in System 9 and System 11 (nothing) MPU boards by simply lifting pin 38 out of the socket. Cutting the pin is not recommended since there may be need for that IC in another board. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W5/W6 and W18/W19 - RAM Type Select ONLY FOR SYSTEM 11B AND 11C&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C MPU boards provide the ability to use either a 6116 or a 6264 RAM at locations U25 and U23 (sound subsystem).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U25&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W5, remove W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W5, install W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U23 (sound subsystem)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W19, remove W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W19, install W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Removing both W5 and W6 from a System ll (nothing) MPU or from a System 11A MPU prevents the switch matrix circuitry from working correctly. One instance of this being done resulted in all switches reporting closure, counting backwards from 64 to 1 while in switch level test. Reference [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-switch-levels-all-active &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;this&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;] PinSide thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
====Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSClockandE.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|A scope trace of the 4Mhz crystal input at pin 39 of the microprocessor (blue), and &amp;quot;E&amp;quot;, the external clock at pin 37 of the microprocessor (amber)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Following is an ordered, disciplined process for reanimating a dead MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Inspect for Alkaline Corrosion. Abate all corrosion properly before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test for valid 5/12/-12VDC power to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify correct jumpers are installed (or not installed) for Hitachi 6802/8 processors. More info [[Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11_MPU_Jumpers|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
#Note and address any error messages displayed upon boot (if any).&lt;br /&gt;
#Validate the ROM images.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test socketed chips in a known working board or chip tester.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (4Mhz) clock signal to the 6802/8 processor at pin 39.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (1Mhz) external clock signal at pin 37 of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the reset circuitry is providing a valid &amp;quot;low and then high&amp;quot; reset signal at pin 40 of the 6802/8. Note that replacing the original reset circuitry with a modern reset generator will lengthen the time until the signal transitions to high. This is normal, and helps with debugging as the signal can be seen much easier.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to test for activity on the IRQ (pin 4), Address and Data pins of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to ensure that the following bus buffer chips are correctly mirroring the input signals to the output signals:&lt;br /&gt;
##System 9: U1, U2 and U3 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U23 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
##System 11: U11 and U13 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U16 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Leon&#039;s test ROM to ensure that each 6821 PIA is receiving the correct chip select and data to produce valid outputs at pins 2 through 17. More information regarding use of Leon&#039;s test ROM can be found [[Leon_Borre_WMS_System_9_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]] for System 9 and [[Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]] for System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Normal Game Boot Behavior====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Boot Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for System 9 is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the diagnostic display on the MPU. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will light during boot up, and continue to stay lit, as long as the game is on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Diagnostic7Segment.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 11(nothing) MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with a 7-segment display on the MPU is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the display. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; does not go away. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will continue to be displayed under normal boot conditions.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DiagnosticLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs as found on a System 11A, 11B, and 11C MPUs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with 3 LEDs instead of the 7-segment display on the MPU is for the &amp;quot;+5 VDC&amp;quot; LED to light first and stay on, then a split second later, the blanking LED will light and stay on. At the same time that the blanking LED lights, the diagnostic LED will begin to blink at a fairly rapid pace with a 50% duty cycle (equal durations of the LED being on then off). The blanking LED will continue to remain on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LEDDiagnosticsIn7SegmentGame.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs driven by game software expecting a 7-segment display as in High Speed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 11 MPU with 3 LEDs is installed in a game whose original board contained the 7-segment LED diagnostic display first introduced with the System 7 board set, the status of the 3 LEDs won&#039;t help much. The game software is attempting to display a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; (assuming your game boots correctly) on a 7-segment display. Since the board contains just the three LEDs, the MPU circuitry merely lights all three LEDs as shown in the picture at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====MPU Boot Error Codes====&lt;br /&gt;
MPUs used in System 9 and 11(nothing) games display a code on a 7-segment display if an error is detected during boot. MPUs used in System 11A, 11B, and 11C games use the Diagnostic LED to blink a &amp;quot;codes&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 9 MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U18 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6808 processor&#039;s ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Game ROM 2 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal stuck, coin door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or the U18 CMOS RAM faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;System failure. Occasionally, the following components can contribute to this problem: U21 (4MhZ crystal), components in the IRQ circuit, broken leads or failed C9 (22uF) in the reset section, or loosely seated ICs on the CPU board. Note that boot code &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; is the hardware default and characteristic of the CPU &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; signal not complying with the proper low-to-high spec at pin 40.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game is locked up, there may be a bad power supply.  The 5 volt logic supply is the first one to check.  Then, check the 12 volt supply, which is used to reset the CPU chip.  Test for both DC (correct voltages) and AC (too much ripple on the DC circuit).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11(nothing) Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 11(nothing) MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;These error codes assume that either High Speed, Grand Lizard, or Road Kings ROMs are installed since those were the only three games shipped with this version of the MPU board containing the 7-segment display. Later System 11 MPU boards replace the 7-segment display with 3 discrete LEDs that indicate 5V presence, diagnostics execution, and blanking status. While the System 11(nothing) MPU board works fine with other/later game ROMs, the 7-segment display with later game ROMs doesn&#039;t provide useful information other than some confidence that the software is running correctly. With later game ROMs installed and the MPU booting properly, the 7-segment display will appear to alternate rapidly between &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; (as fast as the &amp;quot;Diagnostics&amp;quot; LED would be flashing in a System 11A through 11C MPU board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U25 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6802 processors ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;, or the coin door is closed, or the memory protect circuit is faulty, or the CMOS RAM at U25 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;General system failure. Check the 5VDC power supply as well as the integrity of game ROM 2 at U26.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A zero displayed during Memory Chip Test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is NOT functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11A, 11B, 11C games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the number of blinks of the DIAGNOSTIC LED, the error message that might be displayed, and the explanation (Source: Williams System 11A game manual. with embellishment).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating an MPU indicating a U10 failure (8 blinks) can be found [https://youtu.be/Rhho5nO3YLU &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Message&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;no message || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U25 RAM FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;The RAM at U25 could not be used properly. This means that the RAM failed a read/write test at power up.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;The game will remain in the current state and no other tests are performed until the game is turned off, then back on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;MEM. PROT. FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;This message means that either:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;a) the Coin Door may be shut,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;b) the Memory Protect Switch may be stuck in the ON position,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;c) the memory protect logic is protecting the memory, or&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;d) a U25 RAM failure is occurring.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U51 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U51 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U38 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U38 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U41 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U41 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U42 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U42 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U54 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U54 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U10 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U10 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;IRQ FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The interrupt request line is not working normally. It may be missing, stuck, too fast, or too slow.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 failed checksum (test 11 is skipped).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 failed checksum.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of the above failures (except #9) may mean that the device has failed but it may also mean that the 6802 microprocessor is unable to communicate adequately or properly with the device. For example, if the CPU is attempting to checksum the game ROM at U27, but one of the 8 data lines leading to U27 has been severed, the wrong data will be received by the microprocessor and the checksum test will fail even though the ROM is perfectly fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An U25 RAM failure can occur without actual 6116 RAM failure.  One of the most common reasons why U25 RAM failure occurs is lack of power to the RAM chip.  If the D1, 1N5817, diode shorts open, logic power will no longer have a pathway to the U25 RAM.  However, if the D2, 1N4148, blocking diode is fine, and the battery holder and batteries are fine, power will be retained by the U25 RAM.  Although, the batteries will die prematurely if D1 has shorted.  Another reason why U25 is no longer powered by the +5VDC logic power is due to a severed trace either caused by a blunt object or battery corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An interesting side effect to the U25 RAM failure blink code is that the blanking LED will blink 10 times after the single blink from the diagnostic LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== U51, U27, and possibly other boot message causes =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SocketWornOut.jpg|300px|thumb|left|This OEM System 11 MPU socket is tired, worn out, and no longer provided solid contact with the ROM chip legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 MPUs booting with error codes, blinks, or messages on the display may need new sockets for the game ROM(s). In the picture at left, it&#039;s easy to see light right through the socket holes (note the brown background vs the white background). The metal female connections have fatigued over time and are no longer providing a solid mechanical connection to the ROM chip legs. Removal and replacement with a quality dual wipe or machine pin socket is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This situation can cause a wide variety of boot problems including complete failure to boot, &amp;quot;U27 ROM failure&amp;quot; message, &amp;quot;U51 failure&amp;quot; message, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, the root cause could be due to many other reasons. The fairly complicated chip select logic outlined on sheet 4 of the System 11 MPU schematics could be the cause. The best way to attack the problem is with a logic probe, ensuring that the various chip select gates are yielding the intended logic states.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Five &amp;quot;Knocks&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes when turning a system 11 game on, the knocker will fire 5 times, causing most folks to wonder, &amp;quot;what the hey&amp;quot;?. All that knocking is designed to call the operators attention to a potential switch issue. Like the &amp;quot;credit dot&amp;quot; in later Williams games, including System 11 games that support the dot character, these 5 knocks mean that the game hasn&#039;t detected the closure of a particular switch (or switches) in a certain number of games. A message will be displayed indicating which switch or switches to examine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Usually, this is an indication of a failed switch. Most switches get closed during the normal course of game play, long before the game&#039;s software counts up to the limit of &amp;quot;games played without closing each switch&amp;quot; and issues this indication. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this issue, use the coin door diagnostic panel buttons to enter switch edge test. Manually close the switch. If a switch closure is indicated, either normal game play failed to close the switch (you&#039;re not a very good player), or the switch is dirty. Closing a switch with your finger is different than closing a switch with a ball. Your finger generally pushes more firmly on the switch contacts. Clean the switch by dragging an old business card or piece of paper between the switch contacts while pinching the switch blades together with your fingers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Caution: do not attempt to adjust switches with anything metal while the game is turned on. You will eventually short coil or lamp power to the switch matrix, damaging the MPUs switch matrix circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If closing the switch manually doesn&#039;t register in switch edge test, see the &amp;quot;switch problems&amp;quot; section of this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AdjustFailureMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door closed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message seen in the picture at left occurs when the game software can&#039;t make sense of the information contained in the battery backed RAM at U25. This could be because the RAM has failed, but this is unlikely. The vastly more common reason is that battery backup power has been interrupted to the games battery backed RAM because either the batteries are not installed, dead, or dying. Hopefully, they haven&#039;t made a mess of the board by leaking alkaline. See below. &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; is displayed under these conditions when the coin door is closed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that on some games (not certain if all) which use two 16-digit alpha-numeric displays, the message displayed will actually read &amp;quot;AJSTMENT FAILURE&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FactorySettingMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door open.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the coin door is open under these conditions, the message &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; is displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Testing for Battery Backup Power at the RAM =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U25_Ram_Test.jpg|300px|thumb|right|System 11: Game off. Meter set to DC volts. Black lead on game ground. Red lead on RAM pin 24.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing for power at the RAM chip is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The CMOS RAM chip is located at U18 for System 9 and U25 for System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Set DMM to DC volts (or on less than 20V if not using an auto-ranging meter)&lt;br /&gt;
#Game off&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead on backbox ground&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on pin 24 of the RAM as shown at right&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three AA batteries normally provide 4.5VDC. If you are reading some voltage, but not quite 4.5VDC, the batteries need to be replaced...and don&#039;t forget to move them off of the MPU board while you are at it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other causes for low or no battery backup power to the RAM chip are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode at D3 for System 9 or D2 for System 11 - This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC source from &amp;quot;charging&amp;quot; the alkaline batteries. This diode is a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode at D2 for System 9 or D1 for System 11 - This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC battery backup power from powering parts of the board other than the RAM chip. In this case, the batteries will deplete rapidly. This diode is a 1N5817.&lt;br /&gt;
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==== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 9 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U41, U9, the game ROMs, and one or more 6821s.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 11 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U11, U31, U34, U35, U36, U44, the game ROMs, and possibly the 6821s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating the repair of a System 9 MPU that was damaged in this way can be found [https://youtu.be/uoYKRJFnm-I &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:PinSideLogo.png]] An excellent disciplined approach to repairing a System 11 MPU damaged in this way can be found on PinSide [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-fried-my-system-11-cpu-board-now-what#post-7564730 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 9 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Yikes! What a pity...]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3 AA batteries used to retain settings across power cycles to a location far away from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; in the credit/match display is seen when the game is turned on, the game is in audit mode versus attract mode.  Below are several reasons why the game has defaulted to audit mode.&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing.&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the U18 (5517-2) RAM. Check pin 24 of U18 for approximately 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v with the power off.  Lack of battery backup power could also be due to an open D3 (1N4148) blocking diode.  This diode is used to keep the CPU&#039;s logic power from charging the batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking diode D2 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There are other problems, such as a faulty 5517-2 RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries will not allow a game to boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on.  It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores.  However, a System 9 game will boot, and is still playable with the lack of batteries.  To complete the boot sequence into attract mode, open the coin door, switch the game off, and then quickly back on. The game should leave audit mode, and go into attract mode.  Credits would need to be added from the coin door, and if necessary, settings would need to be changed before starting a game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea.  You can easily remove the battery pack from the board.  Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement.  If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position.  Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead.  This will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D3 on the MPU board fails.  Keep in mind that adding a secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory by .5 to .7 volts (the typical voltage drop across a diode) if D3 is still good.  Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 remote bat.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 9 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board.  All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; are somewhat common.  Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save you some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS Sys9 D2 D3.JPG|300px|thumb|left|D2 and D3 Diodes Highlighted on a Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D3 blocking diode.  An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective.  Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack.  This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on.  Alkaline batteries do not like being charged.  They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly).  In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged.  Testing the D3 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out.  When in doubt, replace the D3 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack.  Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5517-2 RAM memory, if D3 is still good.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 11 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RemoteBatteryHolderSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A remote battery holder installed on a System 11 MPU. The purple wire is positive.]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==== Installing NVRAM instead of batteries ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM DIP.JPG|300px|thumb|left|RAMTRON DIP NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Cyclone)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM SMT Adapter.JPG|300px|thumb|right|SMT adapted NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Transporter The Rescue)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like most other pinball mpu boards, the battery-backed RAM can be replaced with a non-volatile memory RAM (NVRAM).  Replacement RAM that can replace existing 6116 or a 6264 SRAM will be needed.  DIP versions are becoming scarce, but there are other solutions available that use surface mount equivalents on a small circuit board that plug into the RAM&#039;s socket.  Unfortunately, U25 is soldered in on System 11 boards from the factory, and would need to be removed to replace with NVRAM.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If installing any version of 6264 NVRAM on an 11B or 11C board, jumper W5 (located just above U25) needs to be moved to jumper W6.  This jumper has a completely different purpose on 11 and 11A boards.  6116 NVRAM will have to be used with 11 and 11A boards, or else modification with wire wrap will be necessary.  If 6116 NVRAM is used on 11B or 11C boards, jumper W5 does not have to be chaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several vendors who sell surface mount NVRAM on an adapter board.  The adapter in the picture shown on the right was purchased from [http://www.pinitech.com/products/cat_memory.php Pinitech].&lt;br /&gt;
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	&lt;br /&gt;
It has been documented that some variants of DIP NVRAM may need to have diode D1 replaced with a jumper or jumped around the diode, in order for the game to boot successfully.  D1, a 1n5817 diode, has a very low forward voltage drop (about 0.2 volts) vs. the normal 0.4-0.6 volts most other diodes have.  If replacing U25 with the memory RAM, some memory RAM will not unlock and allow writes until the voltage is 4.8 volts or so.  The 1n5817 D1 diode is just enough to prevent some memory RAMs from allowing writes.  To solve this, solder a jumper wire around the D1 terminals, or remove D1 entirely and replace with a jumper.  Surface mounted NVRAM on an adapter board is not susceptible to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing a Memory Capacitor Instead of Batteries====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11B Mem Cap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Memory Capacitor Added to a System 11B MPU Board.  The circled areas show an added jumper for the cap&#039;s negative terminal to ground and a jumper added in place of the blocking diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SuperCapInstalled.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method of adding a SuperCap. This style cap has two leads on the bottom of the cap. The negative lead of the cap is connected to battery ground via the red jumper wire. The necessary jumper across D2 is circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor. In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is greatly reduced compared to a rechargeable battery. When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor. When the game is turned off (this is where the memory cap slightly differs than a rechargeable battery) the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time. Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again. If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a memory cap, two things will have to be done. It will be necessary to add a jumper to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground or positive lead to the non-banded side of the blocking diode. The picture to the left shows a jumper added to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 11B MPU board. Installation on System 11, 11A, and 11C boards is similarly performed.  Secondly, the 1N4148 blocking diode (D2) will have to be removed, and replaced by current limiting resistor.  A value from 100 ohms to 270 ohms will work.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, it is a good idea to leave the game on for 15-20 minutes to allow the game to initially charge the capacitor to full capacity. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes to allow the cap to recharge is a good idea.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Both photos show a jumper installed in place of the blocking diode.  It is recommended that a limiting resistor be installed instead.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:  It has been determined that memory capacitors are not the most effective way to retain memory on System 11 games, if the game will not be turned on for long lengths of time.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MPUDelicateTraces.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of the delicate traces under the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. Luckily, these cleaned up nicely.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CorrosionCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Closeup of traces under the battery holder. Corrosion (darkened spots) has invaded beneath the solder mask (green coating) and is beginning to eat away at the copper traces.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen at left, the traces on System 11 MPUs are very small. Not much alkaline damage is required to eat completely through these delicate traces. Unfortunately, there are a great many of these traces under the battery holder, and in a very vulnerable position to alkaline damage. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to the left of the battery holder is the reset section of the MPU. That section is, on balance, much easier to repair than the delicate traces under the battery holder and at the 6821 PIAs immediately under the battery holder.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The advice often dispensed to deal with alkaline corrosion is to scrub the affected area with an acid such as vinegar, rinse with water, and then rinse again with isopropyl alcohol. This might work for light surface alkaline corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, often the alkaline will eat into traces beneath the solder mask or beneath chips. This dictates desoldering affected chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces. The alkaline interacts chemically with the solder making it very difficult to heat. Desoldering from the (presumably undamaged) back side of the board is much easier. Scuffing the alkaline damaged solder with a wire brush to remove the surface layer of damage is also helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once all damaged components have been removed, sand the affected area carefully with your choice of fine grit sandpaper. 220 grit works well. The objective is to remove the corrosion completely without destroying additional traces. All corroded areas must be addressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, rebuild traces as necessary. Corrosion tends to sever traces where the trace meets the solder pad of a part. Strong magnification and bright lighting helps. Either tin or conformal coat the bare copper and then reinstall parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11AlkalineDamage-1-Annotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Another closeup of the delicate traces near the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. These traces are too far gone for a repair to be considered reliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingSRCPartsSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A 9 pin, 4.7K bussed resistor network replacing SRC5. Pin 1 is on the right]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AlkalineCorrosion.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of alkaline damage that has crept under the solder mask (the darker traces). Eventually, this corrosion will eat completely through the trace, making the board unreliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TypicalSRC.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The OEM resistor/capacitor network.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the top of the board are a few &amp;quot;SRC&amp;quot; parts. These are 10 pin resistor/capacitor SIPs. The OEM part connects each driver line to a 4.7Kohm pull-up resistor connected to 5VDC. This guarantees that the signal is held at logic high until the PIA grounds the signal. The OEM part also connects each driver line to a high frequency noise filter capacitor (470pf). These parts are no longer available. A completely acceptable substitute is a 9 pin bussed, 8 resistor network (4.7Kohms) at positions SRC1 - SRC5 and SRC7 - SRC9. This part provides the pull-up resistor. In practice, the high frequency filter capacitor does not impact the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The part is installed as shown in the picture at right, with pin 1 of the part connected to the right side which is labeled pin 1 in the board silkscreen. A 10 pin (9 bussed resistors) part may be used ONLY if the left most pin is clipped and not connected to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An image of the original OEM part is shown at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another example of alkaline corrosion can be seen in the picture on the left. This damage can be cleaned up, retinned, and the board placed back in service.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Blanking Signal Stuck Low or Pulsing====&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking signal is a failsafe interlock with critical game functions including the display, sounds, lamp matrix, and solenoids. It prevents operation of each of these game features to protect the game circuitry in the event of a system failure. For instance, if the MPU is not running, and the lamp matrix is stuck on at a particular row or column, those parts will heat up quickly, and at the very least damage that circuitry. Coils remaining locked on could cause even larger damage to the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the game functions listed above require the blanking signal to be high (&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not pulsing but always high&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;) to operate. As an example, the solenoid driver circuitry logically &amp;quot;ands&amp;quot; the blanking signal with solenoid commands using a 7408 AND gates (at U17, U18, U19 and U20).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of blanking, with the blanking LED never lighting, means that the game program is not running. It either never started running, locked up due to an invalid ROM image or a problem with the data, address, control, or chip select signals on the MPU, or detected a problem with the RAM memory.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Blanking.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|C58, a timing element for the 555 timer. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In rare cases, C58 can fail. C58 holds the input to the 555 timer high between pulses from the display circuitry. This causes the blanking signal to pulse. A pulsing blanking signal can manifest in missing digits on the display, some lamp columns not being turned on, and possibly other issues. C58 is a 1uf tantalum capacitor. If the blanking signal is pulsing, replace C58.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Blanking.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 CPU Blanking Circuit. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will update the displays by sending data to the display 6821 PIA at U51 at regular intervals (every 2.8 msec).&lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 to pulse high periodically. The DE schematics call this signal &amp;quot;TG&amp;quot;. It is merely called &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; in WMS schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at U36, in at pin 13, out at pin 12.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C57 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q50 and to pin 2 of the 555 timer at 1C.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 555 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at U51, the output of the 555 timer at pin 3 (and 7) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the longer, more detailed explanation, [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb75.pdf Stern service bulletin 75] provides the &amp;quot;Blanking Circuit Theory of Operation&amp;quot; for Data East MPUs which are identical to Williams MPUs with respect to the blanking circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When operating properly, the pins of the 555 timer will behave as follows (pin number, logic signal)&lt;br /&gt;
#low&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing at the same rate as the 6821 PIA at U51, pin 4&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing very rapidly. i.e. &amp;quot;ticking&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair Leon&#039;s System 11 test ROM] runs correctly on an MPU, this guarantees that all data, address, and control signals are working correctly. If blanking doesn&#039;t go high with a game ROM installed, ensure that the ROM images are valid. This is by far the most probable once Leon&#039;s ROM runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (System 9)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetGenerator.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 9 MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9ResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator on a System 9 MPU.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The three electrolytic caps (all 100uf/25V), two inductors, and 5 ceramic caps (all .001uf labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;) are part of the 5, 12, and -12 volt power filtering circuitry. The D2, 1N5817 diode isn&#039;t needed if an NVRAM is used instead of a SuperCap or remote batteries.  However, a jumper must be installed at D2 to power the NVRAM.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset section of the System 9 MPU is almost identical to the System 11 reset section. As such, a modification similar to the mod outlined below can be performed on System 9 boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove resistors R6, R8, and R12. Really, all but R6 can simply be clipped off. One through hole at R6 will be used later.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove transistor Q4&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a reset generator (MCP120-460GI/TO) where Q4 was removed. Orient the reset generator the same way that Q4 was oriented, matching the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper from the upper leg of where R6 was removed (oriented as shown in the picture, upside-down from game installation) to the via that is about 1/4&amp;quot; southeast of the R6 connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it. Most of the rest of the reset circuit can be removed, but this provides no advantage since those parts are already &amp;quot;out of circuit&amp;quot; with this modification.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary to power the sound amplifier on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetMinimum.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Another image of the bare minimum part requirement when using a modern reset generator. The three electrolytic caps are all 100uf/25V. Note that the right most electrolytic cap is oriented backwards from the other two. The 5 ceramic caps are all .001uf and are labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;. These are sometimes called 1000pf ceramic caps.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MCP130 reset generator variant, with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used too, but it isn&#039;t necessary. This is because the resistor at R170 provides an external 4.7K ohm pull up for the /RESET line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the reset generator has a longer reset delay than the OEM circuitry. At boot, the 7 segment LED will seem to show a &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; for a fraction of a second. It will turn to a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and remain &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; after that, assuming that the board is booting properly.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System9Inductor1.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumpers&amp;quot; where inductors are normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor2.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; where an inductor is normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some System 9 MPUs shipped from the factory with zero ohm jumpers installed instead of inductors (see images left and right). When repairing alkaline corrosion, it&#039;s completely acceptable to replaced damaged inductors with jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (All versions of System 11)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Section.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 11A MPU board.  Components to be removed are circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Gen.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Reset section with reset generator and jumper installed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on all versions of the System 11 MPU boards. A reset generator can be installed. Since the reset section of all versions of the System 11 MPU board is susceptible to battery damage, this is a very easy, and minimalistic way to rebuild the reset section. To do so, 4 components will need to be removed and a jumper installed. The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Q39 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from top to bottom as installed on the board) R58, R60 (these two are just below the Q39 transistor), and R69.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO (also used on Data East MPUs) where Q39 was. Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q39 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install in the bottom through hole). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the right pad of R58 and the right pad of R60 (both resistors have been removed).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary for the sound section of the MPU on most boards, except the 11B and 11C variants.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired. Please consult the System 11 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics.  The MCP130 variant with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used, but it is not necessary.  This is because resistor network SR19 pin 3 is an external 4.7K ohm resistor used to pull up the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a prime example of where a reset generator is very handy.  The amount of components replaced are reduced from 15-20 to 1.  Note that because this was an 11B board (also true for 11C boards), there is no sound amplifier on the board.  Hence, the +12v is not needed at all, and none of the parts related to the +12v were repopulated.  If this were an 11(nothing) or an 11A board, the +12V inductor (can be replaced by a simple jumper), the W10/W11 jumper, and associated capacitors (C27, C28, and C29) would need to be populated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=330px heights=210px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;A Prime Candidate for Using a Reset Generator (11B MPU Board Shown)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot.JPG|Battery alkali leeched into the reset section.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot WIP.JPG|Components removed, affected traces and pads cleaned and treated.&lt;br /&gt;
File:S11ResetSectionAnnotated.png|Components repopulated. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MinumunResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Another image showing &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;the single jumper (string tied to it) and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator (System 11B/11C). System 11 (nothing) and System 11A must retain a few more parts.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the above gallery pics, note that some components in the reset area had to be reinstalled.  These components are in the area of the reset section, but are not part of the reset circuitry. They are actually related to the game RAM, enabling CMOS power to reach the RAM and to control pin 18, the chip enable pin of the RAM. Without these parts, the MPU will not successfully boot.  Instead, there will be a &#039;&#039;&#039;single blink code&#039;&#039;&#039; from the diagnostic LED indicating a U25 RAM error (a &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; will display on boards with the 7-segment display).  If the game display is connected to the MPU board, a &amp;quot;U25 RAM ERROR&amp;quot; message will be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
*D1 - 1N5817 diode &lt;br /&gt;
*Q40 - 2N3904 transistor (a 2N4401 was used in this case)&lt;br /&gt;
*R64 - 1 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R65 - 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R68 - 4.7 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And, once again, for a System 11 (nothing) or a System 11A MPU, both of which have onboard amplifiers in the upper left corner and require 12VDC power, be sure to retain or replace the following parts:&lt;br /&gt;
*L2 - 4.7uH inductor (or a simple jumper)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C28 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 100uf/25V electrolytic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Connecting a logic probe to the MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Logic Probe connected to System 9 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Logic Probe connected to System 11 (11A) MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, +5v and ground can always be acquired at any one of the bypass capacitors, which are located at most every chip, and simply labeled as &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 comp PSU.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 9 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 comp PSU.JPG|300px|right|thumb|System 11 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 1J17 power connection is essentially the same for System 9 and all variants of the System 11 MPU boards.  The ground connection can be attached to pins 1 through 3.  The +5vdc connection can be connected to pins 4 through 6.  -12vdc gets connected to pin 8 and +12vdc gets connected to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 games are far more tolerant of low line conditions vs. the newer WPC games.  Some things to check if the game is resetting are the usual culprits for this type of thing:  connectors, filter capacitors, slam switches, bad chip sockets, etc.  It is good preventative maintenance to replace the +5 volt filter capacitor on the power supply with a new one; most of these are 25+ years old and might be getting to the point of wearing out.  Certainly replace them if you are getting resetting on your system 11 game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11 games give an indication that they&#039;ve been slam tilted; if you&#039;re getting a &amp;quot;game reset&amp;quot; but you get a noise and/or a message on the displays beforehand, it is probably a slam switch issue vs. a true reset issue.  Check all the slam switches in the game (usually the coin door is the main one, and also the ball roll tilt if present).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
====A/C solenoid/flasher problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AuxDriverBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board, showing the A/C select relay, the clear &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; at the top, center of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is a dual &amp;quot;make/break&amp;quot; (DPDT, double pole, double throw) relay that supplies power to either the &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; or the &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. It is located on the Auxiliary Power/Driver Board for games that use the board which was introduced with Big Guns and used on all subsequent games. For games prior to Big Guns, like F-14 Tomcat, the relay is probably located under the playfield. There are exceptions. High Speed and Grand Lizard do not use an A/C select relay. Road Kings uses one for a handful of solenoids, but this game did not follow the 1-8 solenoid convention which games after it adopted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple ways that the A-Side / C-Side (A/C after this) relay circuit can fail. If the driving transistor (Q8 for Big Guns and later, Q7 for games prior to Big Guns, and located on the MPU board) shorts, the A/C select relay will be constantly energized, resulting in flashers firing when coils should have fired. If the driving transistor never switches the A/C select relay on, coils will fire when flashers should have fired.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing this behavior is easy. Use the diagnostic buttons to select solenoid test, and watch carefully to see what fires. The display will show the coil/flasher under test. The first 8 drive circuits tested will have an &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. That is, circuits will fire in the following order: 1A, 1C, 2A, 2C, ... 8A, 8C. If the A/C select circuit is not working correctly, the same coil or flasher will fire twice in a row, once for the A side and once for the C side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is generally solenoid 12 in coil test. Placing the &amp;quot;Auto Advance&amp;quot; button in the up position, to repeatedly test solenoid 12, should allow you to hear the A/C relay clicking on and off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of &amp;quot;one side&amp;quot; of the A/C select circuit is not working, the fuse supplying the voltage to that side may be blown. F2 (DC side of BR1) and F8 (AC side of BR1) fuse the 25V circuit. F4 (DC side of BR2) and F7 (AC side of BR2) fuse the 50V circuit. Another suspect is fractured solder joints on the A/C select relay. Reflowing these solder joints is simple. The A/C select relay is relatively heavy and it&#039;s weight puts stress on the solder connection at the printed circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-OKOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing normal, working switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is rare for the A/C relay itself to fail. A possible source of trouble are the miniature contacts on the relay wipers. These are high power, high current, contacts that can be filed with a small point file to restore proper current carrying capacity.  Under no circumstances should you ever use contact cleaner on these contacts, as this could cause a spark or fire to occur. Be careful to not mangle the contact wipers in an attempt to adjust them. Adjust with care. 99% of the time, these switch contacts need no maintenance at all.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-WeldedOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a disassembled A/C select relay with both the A Side and the C Side connected at the center contact pads. It&#039;s rare for one of these relays to &amp;quot;weld&amp;quot; itself to both sides. In this particular instance, the game would fire both the A-side coil and the C-side flasher at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other failure points are the connectors and headers connecting the aux driver board to the main cpu/driver board. Fractured solder joints can affect the proper operation of the relay. It is good practice to replace, or at minimum, reflow the header pins, and to replace connector pins in their housings with new pins. System 11 games use .156 connectors in most locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And finally, the solder joints holding the A/C select relay to the board may fracture and cause loss of connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On a related note, if the flashers never illuminate during game or test, but the A/C relay physically engages, likewise the flasher lamps are good, and power is present at the lamps, suspect potential failure of the U1 (4N25) U1 optocoupler on the interconnect board.  Starting with Jokerz, the U1 optocoupler on the D-12313 interconnect board was used to identify whether or not the A/C relay has engaged.  Under normal operation, if the A/C relay has engaged, the voltage on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; side passes back to the optocoupler.  In turn, there is a switch on the switch matrix, typically switch 2, which receives the signal from the U1 optocoupler.  Note that U1 is on some previous games like Taxi, but it was not used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems with RottenDog MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPUDIPSwitches.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left| RottenDog MPU with a red switch bank for selecting either Williams or Data East special solenoid implementation.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDMPU004DIPSwitches.jpg ‎‎|300px|thumb|right| These DIP switches on this RottenDog are configured for a Williams game, even though they do not seem to match the PCB silkscreen.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU board can accommodate both Williams and Data East special solenoid implementations. This is accomplished with an 8 DIP switch bank, pictured at left. If set to the wrong game system, special solenoids will not operate properly in your game. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The DIP switch positions should be set the opposite of what you might think, based on the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpecialSolenoidCircuit.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A typical special solenoid circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Special solenoids on system 11 games are similar to the earlier variants used on all previous Williams&#039; board sets.  During gameplay/test modes the primary switches on the special solenoids (usually the pops and slings) are active, allowing actuation of those switches to fire the solenoids.  This is done by grounding an input to a 7402 logic chip which in turn pre-drives a 2n4401 pre-driver transistor which drives a TIP122 Darlington transistor to fire the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During solenoid test mode only, the secondary path to the 7402 is utilized instead to fire the solenoids.  Since there are 2 paths to fire the solenoids, it is possible for a special solenoid to work in game/test mode, but fail the solenoid test due to a failed PIA or 7402 chip, and vice-versa.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the primary switch associated with the special solenoid device. Therefore, System 9 special solenoids are not activated during solenoid test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a special solenoid actuation switch locks on, the solenoid itself will lock on as well, (hopefully) blowing the associated fuse before blowing all or some of the TIP122/2N4401/7402 circuit.  An inline fuse holder can be added to all special solenoids with a 1 amp fuse installed to help prevent this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11B games do not use the special solenoids in the same way. Special solenoid switches were added to the switch matrix instead, keeping all or some of the solenoid pulses under CPU control. It is easy to identify whether a game has CPU controlled special solenoids by inspecting the activation switches on the special solenoids. If there are both a primary and a secondary switch installed, the game operates via the direct-fire special solenoid setup.  (Note that a secondary switch in the case of slingshots does not mean the normal 2nd switch all slings shots employ. Rather, it refers to a switch that only activates when the sling activates. It is installed near the pivot point of the sling arm underneath the playfield.) Also the secondary switches go to CPU connector J18. If nothing is connected to J18, then the special solenoids are CPU controlled. In games like BK2K only the kickers are CPU controlled while the pop bumpers still use the secondary switches.    There was no rhyme or reason (no definitive start / stop point) which System 11B titles used special solenoid secondary switches, and which did not. Please refer to the game list [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11B above] to determine which did / did not use the secondary switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) that &amp;quot;protect&amp;quot; the board logic from shorts between the sense switches and coil power. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The usual cause of special solenoid circuit failure is a stuck switch that locks the associated solenoid on, causing the TIP-122 transistor to fail and the coil to get so hot that the winding insulation melts (causing a reduction of coil resistance, eventually approaching zero ohms). The zener diode (pictured, left) in the circuit may fail shorted as well. This will cause the associated coil to lock on even after repair of the other damaged circuitry since the zener is connected directly to ground. The shorted zener diode causes the 7402/2N4401/TIP122 circuit to react identically to a switch closure. Gack!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;If your game doesn&#039;t use the special solenoid switch inputs as in most System 11B games and all System 11C games (i.e. no connection at 1J18), then these zeners serve no purpose and may be clipped off. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Unusual Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlwindPinchedWire.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A pinched wire (white/brown) that causes a tough to find solenoid problem.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 method of securing boards sometimes causes odd problems. The securing screws must be removed completely to remove a board vs the improved WPC method of sliding the board off the screw head via a &amp;quot;keyhole&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When securing the boards, it&#039;s important to ensure that wires aren&#039;t pinched behind the board. If a wire is pinched severely enough, the insulation will be displaced and the conductor will contact the backbox ground plain, which can cause a wide range of odd problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wire in the picture shown at left happened to be the ground path for coil #1, the outhole kicker on Whirlwind. When the game was powered on, the coil would lock on until the blanking circuit became active. Pressing the diagnostic/audit coin door button would also result in the coil locking on. This was actually the A/C relay flipping to the coil side for diagnostics and providing power to the coils. The outhole coil had a path to ground via the pinched wire and would lock on. A game could be started and the coil appeared to work properly until &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;any&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the 1 through 8 coils were activated (when the A/C select relay would energize again). At that time, the outhole coil would fire at the same time as the other 1 through 8 coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This one was a real head scratcher!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps wired in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 flash lamps are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
This may seem painfully obvious, but with any lamp problem, where all lamps in the same circuit are not lighting, first see if the associated fuse is blown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Illumination Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
As a rule of thumb, general illumination (GI) lamp issues with System 9 or 11 games are dependent on the era of the game.  The reason for this is GI circuits passed through different boards over the years.  And, the majority of GI issues are typically due to the circuit board.  Not so much the circuit board itself, but the junction between the header pin connections on the circuit board and the connector pins located in the female housings.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is extremely common for the header pins and / or the female connections related to the GI circuit to heat up, and in worse cases char or burn.  When some of these games were in operation earning money, they could potentially be turned on for 8, 12, or more hours every day.  If the connectors were compromised at some time in the game&#039;s life, the issues become compounded.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The problem is a vicious cycle.  If either side of the connector heats up, it creates more resistance.  If it creates more resistance, it draws more current.  If it draws more current, it heats up.  This cycle continues until the connector blows the circuit&#039;s fuse (provided the proper fuse is installed and not by-passed), the connectors are so bad that the circuit no longer has continuity, or the connectors are replaced with new ones.  It is recommended that both the male header pin connector be replaced and the associated pin connectors which connect to it.  Replacing only one side of the connector is only asking for repeat problems down the road.  Header pins rated for 7 amp are highly recommended as a replacement.  If the 7A headers are used, the likelihood of the connector failing due to heat is greatly reduced.  Likewise, the use of Molex Trifurcon connector pins are recommended.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another prevalent problem is the failure of the relay board or the relay board connectors. GI relay boards are typically found under the playfield and on the back of the lamp insert panel. The job of the relay board is to switch the GI lamps on/off for special lighting effects. Over many years of operation, the solder joints on the connector may fracture.  Although it is more common for the male/female connectors to burn badly. Repinning these connectors, as is typical for GI connectors, is the prescribed fix.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Space Shuttle to Fire!=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 GI Circuits.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Typical System 9/11 Power Supply with GI Drivetrain Notated]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During this time period, general illumination entered the power supply [1 / 2], was parsed, and exited the power supply as 4 separate circuits [4].  Although there were 4 discrete GI circuits with 4 separate fuses [5], all 4 circuits were turned on/off via one relay [3] located on the power supply.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the factory connection on the power supply for System 9 games differs than what is shown in the picture. Connections [1 / 2] do not exist on System 9 games, and only two wires are used to input the general illumination instead of four.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Big Guns to Swords of Fury=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone Interconnect.JPG|300px|left|thumb|The interconnect board from a Cyclone mounted to the left side of the backbox]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With all the games mentioned in this particular section, there were some design growing pains.  Williams was creating a preliminary interconnect board, however, it was very different from game to game at first.  Therefore, GI issues may occur at the power supply connections, the interconnect board connections, and / or at one of the discrete GI relay boards used.  Since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A shown at the pic on the left, the general illumination headers, connectors, and connector housings have been changed out due to fatigue / failure.  This is a common failure point on games such as Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Taxi to Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball=====&lt;br /&gt;
The games included during this era used a somewhat standardized interconnect board located below the CPU board.  The GI circuits coming directly from the transformer enter the board on the right side at connector J6.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  In actuality, the GI wires are only 4 wires, instead of 8 wires.  Once the upper 2 wires reach the board, each of them are daisy-chained through the insulation displacement connector (IDC).  Equally, the bottom 2 wires are connected in the same fashion.  This was presumedly done to reduce cost, and decrease the life expectancy of the connection as a whole.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect BK2K GI Marked.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Williams Interconnect Board with general illumination wire colors marked.  Interconnect board is from a Black Knight 2000]]&lt;br /&gt;
The most typical header connections that fail on the interconnect board are J6 (the GI input and return) and J7 (the GI output and return lines to the backbox insert).  The purpose of the picture to the left is to easily identify what GI circuits pass through what connections.  This will aid in attempting to check the continuity of your rework, whether only replacing just one of the header connectors or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the wiring color codes for J6 in the pic are not the incoming wire colors.  The wiring codes in the pic are illustrated this way to determine where the GI circuits disperse throughout the board.  The game&#039;s schematics in the manual include this information too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that discrete GI relay boards were still used during this time period.  Dependent on the game, there may be one to three discrete GI relay boards used.  Again, since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======Repairing the General Illumination Input Connector / Wiring======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Butterfly_GI.jpg|thumb|300px|left|General Illumination input connector with looped (butterfly) wiring]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11 Interconnect GI Connection.jpg|thumb|300px|right|One method for repairing the GI input connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
From the factory, only 4 wires total were connected to the GI power and return input connector, which is located on the right hand side of the interconnect board.  With only 4 discrete connections per wire from the transformer, 8 wires are needed to connect to the interconnect board.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  To increase 2 wire connections to 4 wire connections, the wires connect to the IDC connector via one connector pin, pass through that connector pin, and loop back to another connector pin.  In doing this, the life expectancy of the connector and the header pins on the interconnect board are reduced (too much current for these connections to maintain over their lifespan).  The end result is typically burnt connector pins, housings, headers, and in some cases, the interconnect board too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To resolve the burnt connection issue, the header pins on the interconnect board should be replaced with new ones.  Preferably 7A higher current rated header pins.  As for the harness side, the housing should be replaced too, and Molex Trifurcon crimp pins used within the housing.  To compensate for the extra wires needed, each of the input wires will need a &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot; junction soldered in place.  To do so, take a small piece of wire approximately 4&amp;quot; - 5&amp;quot; long.  In the middle of the small piece of wire, carefully strip the insulation, leaving about 1/4&amp;quot; of exposed wire.  Place a piece of heatshrink on the single incoming wire.  Then, bend the small piece of wire at its center where the insulation is stripped, until both ends leads are nearly parallel with one another.  Take the incoming wire, and solder it to the exposed wire in the center.  The end result will look like a rudimentary &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot;.  Pull the heatshrink over the junction, and that&#039;s it.  This needs to be done for the remaining 3 wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the wire modifications, you can also do a board modification. The J6 connector on the right side can be burned to a crisp. Often lifting pads under the printheader. To repair this you can add a jumper wire to the top 4 traces, connecting pin 1-2-3-4 together. This can also be done for the bottom 2 traces, connecting pin 6-8 together, but you are still missing pins 5 and 7 to be connected to 6 and 8. Turn the board over and solder a jumper over pins 5 thru 8. The same can be done for pins 1 thru 4. Now you have the best possible connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_1.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board with Modification&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_2.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (front)&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_3.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (back)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorLampMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing lamp matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistor.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The same broken SIP resistor after removal.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Sockets=====&lt;br /&gt;
Failed lamp sockets are not very common with System 9-11c games.  If a specific lamp will not illuminate, spinning the lamp socket canister or solder tab can resolve the issue in some cases.  One thing to keep in mind is that all controlled lamp sockets have a diode soldered to two of the lamp socket tabs.  Due to this, the legs of the diode can get pressed against other leads on the lamp socket resulting in an electrical short.  The end result may be a lamp which shines more brightly than other lamps in the same column or row, or a whole lamp column or row will illuminate dimly when they shouldn&#039;t be lit at all.  The resolution is to inspect all associated lamps in the column or row, and look for solder tabs or diode legs touching where they should not be.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Pinbot, Williams introduced lamp boards.  Lamp boards were used in areas where lamp inserts were positioned too closely together, and it did not make logical sense (or it was not physically possible) to use individual lamp sockets.  With subsequent games, lamp boards were used whenever lamp inserts were &amp;quot;nested&amp;quot; in groups.  This trend was presumedly done to save on assembly and production costs.  One benefit of lamp boards is that bulb replacemnt became easier in most cases.  A simple turn of the twist lamp socket (WMS # 24-8767), and the 555 bulb could be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Lamp Board.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early direct solder lamp board as seen on Pinbot - the large color matrix below the top and right colored targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generations of lamp boards had the lamp column and row wires soldered directly to the board.  On one hand, this is beneficial, because there is one less mechanical connection used in the lamp circuits.  On the other hand, it makes it more difficult to remove the lamp boards completely from the game to clean and / or service.  On the plus side, very little goes wrong with the direct wired lamp boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|300px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Two things that can fail are individual lamp circuit diodes or the solder pads can develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot;, where the twist sockets make physical contact with the board.  To overcome the divots, simply add a little solder, and carefully reflow the solder pads.  Make certain not to apply too much heat...just enough to evenly flow the solder.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Fire!, Williams started using lamp boards with .156&amp;quot; header connections for the lamp column and row lines.  This allowed for easy removal and service of the lamp boards.  However, it introduced some new problems.  Because the lamp boards used were single-sided, (this was presumably a cost analysis decision), the .156&amp;quot; header pins can develop cold solder joints and crack due to vibration.  The problem can easily be rectified by removing the old solder from the header pins, and applying fresh, new solder.  This style of lamp board is susceptible to the same issues (bad diodes and divots) as mentioned in the direct wired lamp boards section above.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Adjacent Columns or Rows Lighting Simultaneously =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsS11ShortedLampColumnDrives.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Column drive transistor tabs touching, shorted together. Here, lamp columns 3 and 4 would light at the same time.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A problem seen fairly often is the tabs of either column drives or row returns touching, and therefore shorted and causing more than one column (in the picture at left) or row to light at the same time. If you have this issue, it&#039;s easy to quickly examine the column drive and row return transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Lamp Matrix Row and Column Testing =====&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using a jumper wire.  The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the lamp matrix columns and rows.  The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_columns.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP42 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns.  Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it&#039;s function is to prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix.  In this test we are only connecting a single lamp at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J7.  There is no pin 5 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a column doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q66&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q64&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q62&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q60&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q58&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q56&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q54&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q52&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_rows.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP102/122 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J6.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a row doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test. The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q80&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q81&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q82&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q83&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Grn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q84&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q85&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q86&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q87&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using MOSFETs in the Lamp Matrix Circuitry=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Procedure by Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. Using modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06), the heat (and power consumption) can be reduced substantially.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETSchematic.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Typical &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation (left), &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation on right. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics shown at left compare the widely used &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation with the &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation that uses two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half. Doing so drives the MOSFET with a 9 VDC Vgs.&amp;lt;br  clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 9 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors and IRF9Z34N FETs installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q23-30&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR5&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 11 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R82-89&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR16&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11_mosfet.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A very clean alternate implementation with resistors on the component side. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider DumbAss&#039;&#039;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shown at left is a very clean installation of all parts on the component side of the board. Note that the 1K resistors are situated such that the &amp;quot;body&amp;quot; of the resistor passes between the MOSFETs instead of the legs, thereby eliminating the possibility of a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.  Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorSwitchMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing switch matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Row and Column Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the switch matrix can be tested by simulating switch closures using a jumper wire on both System 9 and System 11 (all revision levels) MPUs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem9SwitchMatrixTesting.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Testing the System 9 switch matrix, but jumpering from pins on 1J8 to pins on 1J10.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As seen at left, testing the switch matrix rows and columns on a System 9 MPU is identical to testing on a System 11 MPU except for which connectors to use. The switch columns on the System 9 MPU at 1J8 are numbered right to left. The switch rows at 1J10 are numbered left to right. 1J9 is available (sometimes not stuffed) for opto switch processing, although this feature may never been used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 switch matrix operates on 5VDC. The switch columns at 1J8 are &amp;quot;strobed&amp;quot; by being pulled to ground successively by the 6821 PIA. The switch columns are normally pulled high via a pull-up resistor. If the switch at the intersection of the column and row is closed, when the column is strobed, the row will be pulled low too. In this way, the processor knows which column it strobed, and which rows return that strobe.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the system 11 switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_col.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix columns.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J10 pin 9, the leftmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated.  The test may report the switch name, refer to the switch matrix table in the manual to correlate the name to the switch number.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J8 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to row 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J8.  There is no pin 6 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire Colors&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Switch number&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_row.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix rows.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J10 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J10 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to column 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J10.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Shorted or non-working switch column====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One or more failed switch columns can be caused by a failed column drive transistor (Q42 through Q49, all 2N4401s) or a failed 1K SIP resistor pack at SRC6.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The column drive transistor part was changed with the system 11B MPU. System 9 to 11A MPUs use 2N3904 transistors at location Q42 to Q49 with 1.5Kohm inline resistors (R71 through R78). These column drive transistors fail quite often as these MPUs age. These 2N3904 transistors can be replaced with 2N4401s. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When System 11B was introduced, the switch column drives were changed to 2N5550s with 470 ohm inline resistors. The more commonly found, and beefier 2N5551, is a good substitute for the 2N5550. Before replacing the transistor, be sure which kind the board uses. Some early system 11B MPUs were stuffed with 2N3904s despite the schematics indicating otherwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A broken SIP can also cause a switch column not to work. This usually happens with System 11 and 11A CPUs. With 11B WMS also changed the switch section layout and eliminated most of the SIPs. The likely candidates are SRC6 and SR11. In the case of SRC6, measure resistance between pin 1 and 2 to 9. If it&#039;s broken it&#039;s usually open after pin 3 or 4. This is a bussed 1K SIP with additional 470pfd capacitors connected to ground and practically NLA. Fortunately the caps are not needed because they are also mounted on the board so it can be replaced with a standard 9-8 1K SIP. Pin 10 which is the common ground for the caps is not used here. SR11 is a standard bussed 560 ohm 10-9 SIP. Here you measure resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 to 10. Be aware that two types of SIPs are used on the board: bussed and isolated. If you suspect a different SIP has failed check the schematics for the pin layout. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Brokensip.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A broken resistor SIP.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a broken resistor package similar to SRC6 but out of a System 11 master display. As can be seen, the part may look solid to the naked eye, but it&#039;s actually fractured.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ground Row Shorts====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11CrackedSR11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Note the fracture in the SIP at SR11. The fracture became apparent only after desoldering the part.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A possible cause for one or more ground row shorts (indicated by the game software on the score display during switch test) is a fractured resistor SIP at SR11 (a 560 ohm 10-pin bussed resistor network). SR11 is a pull-up resistor that is connected between each switch row return and 5VDC. If the return is not pulled up, that return will look like a low signal continuously, which the MPU interprets as a row ground short. Visual inspection of the SIP &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;might or might not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; identify the cause of the problem. A better test is to remove the switch row return connector (J10) and probe each pin with a logic probe. The logic probe should indicate &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; for every pin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Specific to the board pictured at left, a logic probe indicated that J10 pins 1, 2, and 3 were all high but the remaining pins had no signal at all. The fracture can easily be seen between pins 5 and 6 of the SIP (pin 4 isn&#039;t used) meaning that pins 6 through 10 were not connected to 5VDC and therefore not pulling the switch row return to logic high. Hence, the MPU declared a row ground short for rows 1 through 5.  Note that the actual fracture can rarely be seen prior to attempted removal of the resistor network from the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 4N25 Opto Couplers in the Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:4N25System11InterconnectBoard.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Three 4N25 Opto Couplers on a Williams System 11 Interconnect Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games that include an Interconnect Board may use 4N25 Opto Couplers to detect power being applied to the flippers or to detect 28VDC being applied to the A/C relay (as in Rollergames). Pre-Fliptronic WPC games that use the -1 power/driver board also use 4N25 Opto Couplers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These opto couplers are connected to the game switch matrix. Detecting these switches is most often used for lane change and for entering HSTD initials. If one of these functions no longer works, the 4N25 opto couplers should be considered suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, testing an opto coupler is simple using the diode test function provided by most DMMs. Set the DMM to diode test, compare results against those pictured below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Testing a 4N25 Opto Coupler&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Internal.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The internal schematic of the 4N25. Pins 1 and 2 connect to an internal diode (LED). Pins 4 thru 6 connect to a PNP photo transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test3.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the diode connected to pins 1 and 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test2.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 5, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test1.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 4, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switches Not Registering with a Rottendog MPU / Driver Board Installed====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_Before.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_After.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Modified Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the opto switches are not registering at all in a game, and a Rottendog MPU board is being used, suspect that it is an older style board.  This board can easily be upgraded though.  U2 will have to be switched from a 74HCT240 to a 74HC240 chip, and RA5 will have to be changed from a 9-pin 4.7K ohm bussed SIP resistor network to a 9-pin 560 ohm bussed SIP resistor network.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 9/11 High Voltage Section Repair&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don&#039;t continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.  &lt;br /&gt;
====High Voltage Issues With the Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Check Voltages=====&lt;br /&gt;
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working.    &lt;br /&gt;
On the Power Supply Board, use a DMM set to DC volts with the - lead grounded, probe the following connector &lt;br /&gt;
pins to determine if the HV section needs repair.  If the display fuse, F1 is blowing, &lt;br /&gt;
you should remove the applicable display connector (with power off) before testing the voltages. Note that these are &amp;quot;loaded&amp;quot; voltages. If you are testing on the bench, or without displays connected, your measurements may vary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-11883 or D-12246:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 1 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 3 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-8345-xxx:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 3 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 4 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the test points are more than about 5 volts out of spec, then your HV section may &lt;br /&gt;
be malfunctioning (if you or a previous owner replaced Z2/Z4 with 1N4763A diodes to purposely reduce the display voltage, test readings in the 90&#039;s range would be normal).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check the table below for a solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Troubleshooting table=====&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Symptom&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Cause&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacement&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 0V ON BOTH +100/-100 lines&lt;br /&gt;
| Check F1 &lt;br /&gt;
| 1/4 Amp SB&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D3&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR1, ZR2&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R1&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q4&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR3, ZR4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q3&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R4&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=4 | F1 1/4 Amp Fuse Blows&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Capacitor at C1 and C3&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Display&lt;br /&gt;
| Display Glass*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN7180&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN7180*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN6118&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN6118*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| +118V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| -118V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  colspan=3 | * located on display board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Displays Test With no Shorts&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Once the displays are tested and shorts are eliminated, we can proceed with the HV section repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacing the components in the HV Section&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Since there are not that many components, if you are having problems isolating the &lt;br /&gt;
fault, a quick solution is to replace all the components in &lt;br /&gt;
the HV section. If only one side (+ or -) is failing, it is possible to rebuild only the failing side.&lt;br /&gt;
Check the parts section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the replacement parts for one or both failing sides:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;-Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+,-Location&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340 (or MJE15030)&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350 (or MJE15031)&lt;br /&gt;
| Q1,Q3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
| Q2,Q4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| Z1,Z3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| Z2,Z4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| R1,R4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| R2,R5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| R3,R6&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| C2,C4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| C1,C3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| colspan=4 | **This is a 91V Zener to reduce the voltage to prolong display life&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSPartIdentification.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visual depiction of the parts in a System 11 high voltage section. Note that the legs of the MJE15030/MJE51031 are crossed as this power supply originally used OEM parts SDS-201 and SDS-202]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;strong&amp;gt;Remove and replace HV components&amp;lt;/strong&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Stuff board with new components.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Leave a little space under components for air flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Bend leads on components so they won&#039;t fall out when board is inverted for soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Solder the parts to the board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip excess off leads&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE340/MJE350 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE340/MJE350 is the heat-sinked transistor.  On most Williams boards, this transistor pin configuration is not the same as the original part.  It will need to be installed vertically with heat sink attached to the transistor only.  The transistor will sit at about a 45 degree angle so the legs can be lined up to fit in the correct holes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check your board and insure correct orientation before soldering in place.  Late versions of the System 11 series boards were designed to use the pin configuration of the MJE340/MJE350 transistors.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Do not mount vertically if the power supply is designed to use the pin configurations of the newer transistors!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MJEInstall.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE15030/MJE15031 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys11MJELegsCrossed.jpg|300px|left|thumb|High Voltage section with MJE15031 installed. Note the crossed legs on the left transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 PS Alt HV Transistor Pads.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Power supply with pads for both styles of HV transistors]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 are rated for higher power and can be used instead of the MJE340/MJE350 (the MJE340/MJE350 are well within design specifications and are suitable replacements at 1/3 the cost of the MJE15030/MJE15031). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 pin configuration has the Base and Emitter reversed as compared to the MJE340/MJE350. In the image at left, the left transistor (MJE15031) shows one method of crossing the legs safely. The transistor&#039;s two left legs are shifted right on position. The third leg is then jumpered to the boards left through hole position.  If you prefer not to cross legs, this transistor can also be mounted vertically, but this transistor would be facing the opposite direction as compared to the MJE340/MJE350 pictured above.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some power supplies which have pads for both the SDS-201/SDS-202 or the MJE15030/MJE15031 style of transistors.  In the pic to the right, the MJE15030/MJE15031 transistors are installed from the factory, but there are solder pads just below for installation of the SDS-201/SDS-202 transistors. If installing ME15030/MJE15031, the upper pads are used, and no leg crossing is required.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready to test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the rebuilt power supply, return to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Check Voltages&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; section of this guide.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9-11 HV section of the PSU is very similar in design to the earlier System 3-7.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Power_Supply_Issues|Sys 3-7 PSU Problems]] section entitled &#039;&#039;&#039;+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU&#039;&#039;&#039;, for more detail.  It also provides links to source complete HV rebuild kits which will normally cost under $10 shipped.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Panel Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segment Identification=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegmentLetters.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Alphanumeric and Numeric Segment Identification.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Will Not Light=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PlasmaBallTest.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Testing a high voltage plasma display with an inexpensive plasma ball]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If power to the display is correct, and the display was moved to a known working display panel position (if possible), it is possible that the display has outgassed. A plasma ball can be used to determine if a display glass is outgassed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A Youtube video demonstrating the use of an inexpensive plasma ball for this purpose can be found [https://youtube.com/shorts/GGftl3S_OWg?si=T5Cdzyovtar6_Han &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segments Light &amp;quot;In Sympathy&amp;quot; With Other Segments=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ShortedSegments.jpg|300px|left|thumb|In this image, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; light simultaneously, even though only one segment should be lit. The last two characters illustrate the issue clearly. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider Pinball50.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Internal shorts within a display glass can cause segments to light &amp;quot;in sympathy&amp;quot; with other segments. That is, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot;, for example, will both light, when only one of the segments &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;should&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be lit. Segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; is lit and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; is lit. This is caused by an internal short within the glass. The short can be confirmed by &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;removing the leads of the associated segments from the PCB&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; and measuring resistance between them. The resistance should be infinite, or open.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, there is no way to repair the glass and it should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Commas stuck on (Players 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4)=====&lt;br /&gt;
System 9: Check IC36 on the MPU (6821 PIA)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 16 = Players 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 17 = Players 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game in attract mode, check these pins with a logic probe. They should go low each time the displays turn off. if they stay high, the PIA is likely bad and will need to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Fuse F1 Blows=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the UDN Chips&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the display fuse is blowing, you should check the display board for shorts before connecting&lt;br /&gt;
a new or rebuilt power supply to the display board, as a shorted display or chip can damage a good power&lt;br /&gt;
supply.  Remove the display board from the system.  The display characters are driven by the two types &lt;br /&gt;
of UDN chips, the UDN7180 &amp;amp; UDN6118 (or UDN6184).  Locate these chips (there are several)&lt;br /&gt;
on the board and test them with your DMM set to diode check.  Clip your + (RED) &lt;br /&gt;
lead to the ground trace of the board.  Probe the UDN chips as shown in the diagram.  &lt;br /&gt;
If any shorts are read in the tested pins, the display should not be connected to the power &lt;br /&gt;
supply until the shorts are corrected.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pins labeled &#039;dont care&#039;), the UDN&lt;br /&gt;
chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board.  Take care to preserve this chip,&lt;br /&gt;
as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace.  Now install an IC socket in its place.&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat the test with no chip installed.  If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing Display Glass=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change1.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed with glass nipple in proper location]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change2.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Replacement glass installed after circuit board was drilled to allow for glass nipple in different location]]&lt;br /&gt;
All plasma displays have a finite life expectancy.  Display glass replacements were and are offered in several configurations.  The differences in these configurations are mainly the placement or lack of a display &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; on the back of the glass.  The glass nipple is what can pose as somewhat of a problem, when replacing a display glass.  Williams did place a rather large hole in the display circuit board.  However, the placement of the glass nipple has changed.  To overcome this issue, a hole can carefully be drilled through the circuit board to allow for the glass nipple.  When drilling, drill successive holes, starting with a small drill bit first, rather than drilling one large hole.  This will reduce the chances of the circuit board &amp;quot;splintering&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At one time, [http://www.pinballpcb.com/Displays.html pinballpcb.com] did offer replacement displays and / or just the replacement display circuit boards.  Neither of these products are available anymore.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit Repair.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Original display glass was secured to its circuit board with double-sided, high tack, foam tape.  If this cannot be acquired, a simple method to secure an existing or new display glass is to use silicone caulk or RTV caulk.  However, in following this method, the glass must be supported on the board until the caulk cures.  Wrapping the glass with rubber bands is a great way to do this.  Once the caulk is cured, just cut off the rubber bands.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Logic States of Display Output Signals for a Working MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
These logic states were recorded from a System 11A board. This board was running Swords of Fury code in display test mode manually paused with all characters / digits on &amp;quot;8&amp;quot;.  This is for games with a 4 x 7 display board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
L=LOW, H=HIGH, P=PULSE&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ3 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || H&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ2 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || None (Key) &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ1 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || L || 1 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || L || 3 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || L || 5 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || L || 7 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L || 9 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || L || 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 14 || L || 13 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 16 || L || 15 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 18 || L || 17 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 20 || P || 19 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 22 || P || 21 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 24 || P || 23 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 26 || P || 25 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jumper Settings for a newer System 9 Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board jumpers.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Jumpers Circled on a Comet System 9 Speech Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned above, the System 9 speech board is essentially the same as the System 6/7 speech board. However, the newer speech board has jumpers added to increase the flexibility of EPROMs used.  Either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs can be used.  If using 2532 EPROMs, install jumpers W2 and W4, and remove jumpers W1 and W3.  If using 2732 EPROMs, install jumpers W1 and W3, and remove jumpers W2 and W4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Sound or Speech Calls=====&lt;br /&gt;
To start a sound test, simply press the SW2 momentary switch at the bottom of the CPU board located between connections 1J16 and 1J17.  Once SW2 is pressed, the CPU will cycle through all of the sound / speech calls continuously.  Each System 9 game has a chart located in the manual, which lists the speech and sound calls made during test.  The benefit of the chart in the manual is that it lists the ROM where a particular call originates.  If a particular sound / speech call is not heard, the associated ROM listed for that call may be bad.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another result of speech calls missing is possibly a bad U2 or U3 on the speech board.  Both of these chips are 1458 op-amps.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Isolating the CPU Sound from the Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the sound / speech calls originate from the CPU board, while the remaining calls originate from the speech board.  If after running a game through sound test by pressing SW2, and some sounds are missing or very low in volume, a good idea is to isolate the CPU board from the speech board.  All of the sounds originated on the CPU board, leave the board via the 40 pin ribbon cable, and go to the speech board for mixing.  Once mixed, all of the sounds and speech are then returned to the CPU board, amplified, and sent out to the speakers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Much like the System 6/7 sound and speech boards, the sound can be isolated from the speech board for testing purposes.  The System 6/7 Type 2 sound board uses a jumper at position W1.  When jumper W1 is installed, the sound board can be diagnosed without the speech board installed.  The equivalent with the System 9 CPU board is jumper W10.  This jumper is typically not connected.  However, when it is connected, the sounds originating from the CPU board can be heard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Locate jumper W10 on the CPU board.  W10 is located to the right of SW2 on the board. There should be two very small wires clipped on either side of W10, as if W10 was installed and removed. Connect an alligator test lead across the short leads of W10.  If the short leads are not present, a short light gauge wire or wire wrap can be tack soldered to the solder pads of W10, or use a jumper wire to connect the lower legs of C32 and R76 which are just right of W10 (see pic, below).  With a jumper installed at W10, some sounds should be heard when SW2 is pressed. Sound test, via the coin door diagnostic button is likely to provide sounds for all but sound 7, which is a voice call. If no sounds are heard, further troubleshooting must be performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=350px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Adding W10 to a System 9 CPU Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumper.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Locating jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumped.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Temporarily jumpering W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System9JumperTemporary.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Alternate for jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games are known to &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; a bit. The &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; is caused by electromagnetic interference from the lamp matrix insinuating itself on the sound circuit. To minimize the interference, ensure all boards are screwed tightly to the backbox ground plain, with all screws installed.  This improves grounding and will help minimize &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another cause of hum could be an inconsistent +5DC volts from the power supply. An indicator of this being the cause of hum would be the game occasionally resetting as well.  Replacing caps C8 and C10 on the power supply may correct this issue.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the version of System 11 board, an 11C board or anything else (nothing, 11A, and 11B), sounds and music are handled with different specifics.  With the first 3 generations of MPU boards, the sounds originate from the MPU board and the background music originates from the sound board.  With the 11C board, both sounds and music are on the sound board, as the MPU no longer has a sound section populated on it. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume POT value=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 5K linear volume POT. Others shipped with a 10K linear volume POT. Both POT values work fine and either can be used to replace a failed volume POT.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 50 ohm resistor soldered to the volume POT. It is thought that this resistor was included so that the volume could never be turned to zero. For route games, at least some sound was thought to increase game earning potential. This resistor can be removed or jumpered around to enable turning the sound volume completely off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Boot Up Diagnostic Tones for the D-11297, D-11298, and D-11581 Sound Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11297, D-11298, and the D-11581 sound boards all provide diagnostic tones (&amp;quot;bongs&amp;quot;) at power on.  A single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; means that the sound board is operating properly.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of a bong indicates a problem with the sound board or it&#039;s connections. The possible causes for failure are numerous, including a failed amplifier, missing or incorrect connector placement, missing or noisy (AC ripple) power for a required voltage (-12VDC), failed speakers or the connection to the speakers, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is healthy enough to perform it&#039;s own self-diagnosis, it will attempt to indicate the problem by playing a specific number of bongs, as shown in the tables below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11297 &amp;amp; D-11298 Sound Boards&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U3 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11581 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U5 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Diagnostics Via the MPU Board for Games Prior to 11C=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the upper switch of the two switches on the side of the MPU board will test both the CVSD and DAC on the MPU board.  The first sound is typically sound ROM (on the MPU) specific, and it is a test of the CVSD chip.  The second sound is described as a  &amp;quot;twing&amp;quot;, and it is a test for the DAC.  If no sounds are heard, refer to the potential issues listed above in the previous section.  If one &amp;quot;ring&amp;quot; is heard, it denotes that the U23 RAM chip has failed.  Two or four rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U21 ROM.  Three or five rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U22 ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Connecting the Speaker and Volume Connections for a System 11 MPU Board on the Bench=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS Sys11 Speaker Volume Connection.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Speaker and Non-adjustable Volume Control Connected on a System 11 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the sound on a System 11 MPU on the bench, a speaker and volume control must be connected to connectors 1J15 and 1J16 respectively. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The speaker should connect to pins 2 and 3 of 1J15. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the adjacent pic, a 470Kohm resistor was used in lieu of a volume pot.  Other resistor values can be used, but 470Kohm allows the sound to be set to a comfortable audible level.  Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped into a .156&amp;quot; housing as shown. This resistor/connector set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3 through System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using alligator clip leads to power the board, use special care as to not send +12v down the -12v line (the pins are adjacent to one another).  Sending +12v down the -12v bus will most definitely destroy the 1408 DAC chip (if populated).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Is Very Faint Even at Maximum Volume =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:55536-CVSD.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Two hard to find 55536 CVSD ICs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
While most techs would suspect either a TL082 or a TL084 amplifier (on a pre-DCS sound board) or a 1458 amplifier (on a System 11 MPU) as the cause of this issue, the 55516/55532/55536/55564 CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta-Modulator) can also cause this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isolation to the CVSD is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into sound test.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use an oscilloscope to probe pins 9 and 12. A scope must be used since the signals are too subtle for a logic probe to detect.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 is a clock signal. &lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 12 is a data signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is making sounds that use the CVSD, both pin 9 and pin 12 should show &amp;quot;off nominal&amp;quot; signals. If the CVSD is working correctly, the output at pin 3 should be showing signal also. If it is not, then the CVSD has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Some Sounds Lower Volume Than Others =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11DACChannel.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The sound section of a System 11 MPU and the 2N3904 amplifying transistor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another sound anomaly manifests as some sounds being more faint than others is a failure in the 1408 DAC sound lane channel. In High Speed, for example, &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot; exercises both the 1408 and 55536 sound lanes. Sounds 1, 3, and 5 are all made via the 1408 DAC lane. If those sounds are faint, the issue could be the 10uf capacitor (C8), the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) that is used as a pre-amplifier, the 3.3K resistor (R7), or the 1408 DAC. Eliminating the easy possibilities first, replace the 10uf capacitor. If that doesn&#039;t fix the issue, replace the 2N3904. The 2N3904 may &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot; as failed, but not always. If the issue still remains, replace R7. Lastly, replace the 1408 DAC (U2). An equivalent part that may be used is the DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video, showing the problem and resolution can be viewed [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7fk3PtwvtE here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS_Sys11_1408_flipped_lid.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 1408 in the sound section of a System 11 MPU lost its top!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In another instance, Pin*Bot, all of the sounds were faint, except the last two in test.  This ended up being a bad 1408 DAC.  The last two sounds were unaffected, because the 55516 CVSD chip handled them.  With a visual inspection, the 1408 in the pic could not be determined it was bad, until it was in the midst of being desoldered from the circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Voice callouts are much softer than music/sound or missing completely =====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A and 11B MPU boards were populated with different resistor and capacitor value parts. If an 11A MPU is installed into an 11B game (F-14 into an Earthshaker for instance), it is possible that the voice callouts will be noticeably softer than the other music/sound. The following table details the difference between the two sound mixing sections &#039;&#039;(Thanks to Pinsider &amp;quot;Mneubey&amp;quot;)&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11n_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11 (nothing) sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Resistors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R21 is 12K in 11B, 15K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R22 is 22K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R19 is 56K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R16 is 180K in 11B, 56K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R17 is 270K in 11B, 220K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R15 is 180K in 11B, 43K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R20 is 12K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Capacitors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C10 is 470pf in 11B, 1800pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C11 is 100pf in 11B, 180pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C12 is 470pf in 11B, 1200pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C13 is 4700pf in 11B, 4700pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11b_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11B sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Board D-11581 Mixer Section Resistor Values =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D11581ResistorValues.jpg|500px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Mixer&amp;quot; section resistor values across D-11581 sound board games. &#039;&#039;Data courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A through 11C sound boards were populated with different resistor values. The table shown at left details the differences between the sound mixing sections for each game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the value of R13 will change also. It should be 4.99K for &amp;quot;Fire!&amp;quot; through &amp;quot;Police Force&amp;quot;, and 10K for all other games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Some Music or Garbled Music with a D-11581 Sound Board and 5 Bongs=====&lt;br /&gt;
A sound board booting with 5 bongs indicates a failure of the U20 ROM. While U20 could, in fact, have failed, 5 bongs could also mean that the software can&#039;t access U20. In one such case where 5 bongs were heard, during music test, tests 4 and 6 would play music but the music was garbled and/or incorrect. The root cause was W10/W11 jumper settings on the sound board that didn&#039;t match the ROM size. W10/W11 should be set to the left for 27256 ROMs; to the right for 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Modifying a pre-System 11C Sound Board to use 27512 ROMs (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. Note that W3 is &amp;quot;always IN&amp;quot;. The solder mask over the W3 jumper trace has been removed for clarity. Normally the trace is covered by a dashed white silkscreen line.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3Modified.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. W3 has been cut to enable use of 27512 ROMs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some revisions of the D-11581 sound board will not accept 27512 sound ROMs without modification. By the time that revision C was manufactured, jumpers W10 and W11 were added above U20 to enable use of larger ROMs. Prior to that, jumpers W2 and W3 were implemented, but were of little use since both jumpers tied A15 (pin 1) of each EPROM to +5VDC. Making the modification pictured at right, then installing jumper W2, enables the use of 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jokerz specific sound issue=====&lt;br /&gt;
A special case of interference is present on the Jokerz game, which uses a unique stereo sound board.  A deficiency in its design prevents all of the noise from being eliminated from the board.  Details can be found in the original Williams service bulletin here: [http://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf Jokerz service bulletin at IPDB.org]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Whirlwind Doesn&#039;t play Sound 7 During Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
This particularly annoying issue appears to have no impact during gameplay. The only manifestation is that &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot;, sound 7 doesn&#039;t play. The normal sound is an explosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This issue is caused by old game ROM versions at U26 and U27. Revision PA1 doesn&#039;t send the command to the sound subsystem to play sound 7, even though sound 7 is displayed on the alphanumeric display. Updating U26/U27 to &amp;quot;LA3&amp;quot; as can be found at www.ipdb.org will correct this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:YT.png]] Correct Whirlwind sounds are demonstrated in a YouTube video found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Board Theory of Operation (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated and including jumpers W10 and W11]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Major components of the D-11581 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*68B09E externally clocked CPU, which is also used in all WPC MPU and pre-DCS sound boards&lt;br /&gt;
*68B21 Peripheral Interface Adapter, capable of running at 2Mhz&lt;br /&gt;
*Up to 3 ROMs. All boards can accommodate 27256 ROMs. Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
*6116 RAM (2K bytes). Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate a 6264 RAM (8K bytes)&lt;br /&gt;
*YM2151 sound synthesizer paired with the YM3012 DAC (outputs channel 1 and channel 2)&lt;br /&gt;
*55516 CVSD (continuously variable slope delta) audio encoder, which provides a 3rd audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*1408 DAC (digital to analog converter), which provides a 4th audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*Various 74XX ICs that perform address decoding and chip selection logic&lt;br /&gt;
*1458 pre-amplifiers and TDA2002 amplifiers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11581 sound board shares a lot of board design and architecture of the pre-DCS sound board that was introduced with WPC games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power requirements for the board are supplied via connector J3. The typical sound board power levels are required, 5VDC, 12VDC, -12VDC, and Ground. Three 100uf capacitors reduce noise on the power busses along with several small ceramic caps which filter high frequency noise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Reset&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The on board 68B09E is reset via the external reset signal provided by the MPU board, via connection J4, pin 18. If attempting to operate the board without the MPU board connected, the processor must be manually reset via momentarily grounding pin 37 of the 68B09E.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Clocking&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clocking signal for the board originates at the 8Mhz crystal oscillator. U16, a 74LS74 Dual D-Type FlipFlop divides the clock signal yielding both the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Q&amp;quot;clock signal. E and Q are phase shifted by one half clock cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chip Select Logic&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chip select is accomplished via the normal &amp;quot;memory mapped I/O&amp;quot; method, using U14 (74LS139) and U15 (74LS138). &lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for all three ROMs (U4, U19, U20) is implemented by U14.&lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for the RAM (U5), YM2151 (U3), and the 6821 (U12) is implemented by U15.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;How sounds are produced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are provided via J4, a dual row .100 connector of 20 pins. These sound selects are held &amp;quot;normally high&amp;quot; via a 4.7K/470pf 10-pin bussed SIP pull-up resistor/capacitor (SR1) tied to 5VDC. These SIP resistor/capacitor parts are no longer available. A bussed 4.7K 9-pin resistor network can be used as a replacement. The capacitor feature of the original part filtered high frequency noise from the communication lines. In practice, noise doesn&#039;t impact the interface significantly enough to be of concern.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board will pull the appropriate sound select signals to ground via the 6821 PIA at Uxx. When the appropriate signals are pulled to ground, the PIA is programmed to interrupt the 68B09E processor via the FIRQ and NMI signals. The 68B09E then reads the sound select signals presented at the 6821s input port (PB0 through PB7) via the processor data bus (D0 through D7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor then employs the 4 sound channels available to it, along with encoded sound files contained in the ROM images, to create the intended sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Where Do The Sounds Come From?====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections can be used to ensure that all sounds are played by the Williams combined MPU and Sound Board System.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Comet|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-2m7vKCeg2A Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Sorcerer || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pXacwGqv5C4 Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Shuttle || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/B-gsuEw1jgU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Cats || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-JJKPvMBplg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bally Game Show || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/vwA4FST62ug Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Banzai Run || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/6D87Z2iUsv0?si=x8BKbDsxHFI_yodb Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight 2000 || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/uyJlxc2ewtY Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Cyclone || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pEdSxFu1Zio Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Diner || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rwCLpG5jU2I Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Earthshaker || [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eH0FVvbBQUQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Elvira &amp;amp; the Party Monsters || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/OS_SRCNaMwg?si=6Wop4YLK2wa6Mco4 Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| F-14 Tomcat || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rG26I-oDK6E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Fire! || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/dXKRw1GqUcQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| High Speed || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/yAmJzD9EAZA Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| PinBot || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/CoVvhwggLfU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Police Force || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/Em63v0-zJKk?si=gt3qD2jLsqJFdwlW Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Pool Sharks || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/gceZEgLMaDQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Rollergames || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/tN-Ns9eh8Pg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Station || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/9XERXpVGCsY?si=jSNjikeN1nM6GeQy Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Swords of Fury || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/u6baQrse5LI?si=3Y85cpAXqDF5_Qis Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Taxi || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/P7DIs5djK-E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Whirlwind|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Circuit Schematics Error ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Correct wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems Incorrect.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Incorrect wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.  Some of the early System 11 manuals show incorrect wiring for the EOS switch.  One of the EOS switch wires should be soldered to the center lug of the coil.  However, the other wire should be soldered to the lug with the non-banded side (anode) of the diode, not the lug with the banded side (cathode) of the diode.  Manuals which have this misinformation are High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings. Millionaire and Pinbot appear to be fine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Electrical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;50V Flipper Power Board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;Aux Power Supply&amp;quot; board that was introduced with these games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and 11 flipper circuitry is identical to all prior Williams System 3-7 games. The design had not changed from even the old electro-mechanical flipper implementation when the End of Stroke switch was introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yes, Williams used serial wound coils from High Speed to Millionaire and then converted to parallel wound coils beginning with F-14 TomCat and throughout the rest of the System 11 run and into the WPC run. But the basic operation of System 9/11 coils remained &amp;quot;EM-like&amp;quot; whether serial or parallel wound.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are only three switches that can affect the electrical operation of a System 11 flipper, including strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Switches inside the Flipper Enable relay (K1), located on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The cabinet flipper button switches.&lt;br /&gt;
#An End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch associated with each flipper coil and integrated into the flipper mechanism assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Series Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the flipper coil. The EOS switch is closed, creating a short across the low power windngs, that removes resistance of the low power windings from the circuit. Only the smaller number of high power windings are &amp;quot;in circuit&amp;quot; with the EOS switch closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at the low resistance high power windings of the coil. The coil plunger is pulled into the coil and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, removing the short across the low power windings, and placing them in series along with the high power windings. Together, the total resistance of the coil becomes the sum of both the low power and the high power windings. With more windings, the coil will have higher resistance and hence, lower power. The combined high resistance windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelWoundFlipperDiagram.jpg|left|400px|thumb|Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Diagram courtesy of Chris Hibler.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the low power windings of the flipper coil. And, since the EOS switch is closed, the high power windings also have a path to ground. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;both&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; of the coil parallel windings. Since electrical current &amp;quot;takes the path of least resistance&amp;quot; the lower resistance high power winding takes most of the current and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, breaking the path to ground for the high power windings. The high resistance low power windings remain in circuit, and provide &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; power to the flipper coil. The high resistance low power windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Mechanical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Return springs&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured nylon bushing&lt;br /&gt;
*Insufficient gap between nylon bushing and crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat damaged coil&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil sleeve&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil stop&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper shaft slipping within crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Others?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 Display Single AlphaNumeric Character Won&#039;t Light===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11B Bridged Header.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A solder bridge on the &amp;quot;digit strobe&amp;quot; connector.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the category of &amp;quot;things that will make you crazy&amp;quot;, the solder bridge pictured at left shorted pins 8 and 9 on the connector that carries the digit strobes to a System 11 display. This prevented one of the digits on the display from ever lighting. It&#039;s always a good idea to examine prior work closely. Assuming the prior tech knew what they were doing is not always valid.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a System 6/7 Speech Board in a Comet===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 CPU with 2732 Speech.JPG|300px|left|thumb|A Modified System 6/7 Speech Board Functioning with a System 9 CPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should the need arise, a System 6/7 speech board can be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified to use 2732 EPROMs] for a Comet.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a Data East MPU Board in a System 11 Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Whaaaat?!?!  Yes, a Data East MPU can be used in a Williams or Bally System 11 game.  However, this is limited to System 11C games only, and only a DE 520-5003-03 (Version 3) MPU can be used.  The reason for this limitation is because games previous to 11C have some or all of the sound section circuitry on the MPU board populated, the 11C does not.  Likewise, DE boards do not have any sound section circuitry located on them by design.  The board swap is not a simple drop in replacement though.  Some minor modifications have to be performed for the DE board to function properly in an 11C game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first hurdle is to properly power the DE board.  Connection 1J17 is where power originates on the 11C board.  The complimentary connection on a DE board is CN17.  The problem is that these connections are keyed differently between the two boards.  1J17 has a key at pin 7, while the key on CN17 is at pin 8.  The safest way to make a connection to CN17 with the 11C game harness is to remove pin 7 on the DE board.  This will have no ill effect, if the DE board is to be placed back into a DE game.  The worst case scenario if pin 7 is removed and the board placed back into a DE game is that the CN17 connector housing could be installed off by one pin, thus shorting the +5v to ground, and blowing the logic voltage fuse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Jumpers for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Correct jumper setting on DE MPU for 11C game ROMs]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Special Solenoid Wire Swap for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Addition harness and Z-connector installed to correct special solenoid drive outputs]]&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the game ROM jumpers have to be set correctly.  Since all 11C games use dual ROMs, jumper setting J4 must be in on the DE MPU, while J5 is out.  Install the 11C game ROMS in the following positions.  U27 (ROM 1) is to be inserted into the 5C socket, while U26 (ROM 2) is installed into the 5B socket.  Notch on the chip / socket is facing to the right.  There is an alternative method.  The code for the dual ROMs can be burned into a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Burning_Dual_ROMs_into_a_Single_5C_ROM single 27512 EPROM.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, there is a problem with how DE boards poll the special solenoid drivers differently than 11C boards.  Two of the drivers are correct (solenoids 17 and 21), while the four others are mismatched.  To overcome this problem, either a harness can be created (DE board to 11C harness) with a Z-connector installed between 1J19 and the game harness, or the 7-pin housing (the 9-pin housing at 1J19 is split with a 2-pin housing and a 7-pin housing) at 1J19 can be repinned.  The benefit of building a harness and adding a Z-connector is that it is easily reversible, if an 11C board is to be placed back into the game at a future time.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following wires will have to be connected to 1J19 / CN19 on the DE board for the game to function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Stock Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Swapped Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || ORG-VIO || ORG-VIO  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || ORG-GRY || ORG-GRY  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || BLU-ORG || BLU-YEL  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || BLU-RED || BLU-ORG  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || Key || None  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || BLU-YEL || BLU-BLK  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || BLU-BRN || BLU-BRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || BLU-GRN || BLU-GRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || BLU-BLK || BLU-RED  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane at Game Start (Pinbot) ===&lt;br /&gt;
Trough and shooter lane switches test alright in switch test.  Ball feeder coil from trough to shooter lane tests fine in solenoid test.  If the motor for the visor is disconnected, and the visor does not cycle at the start of the game, the ball will not kick to the shooter lane.  This may be an issue if one or both of the visor switches are not recognized too.  Not certain what code revision this particular game was running.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane and Drop Target Will Not Reset (Cyclone) ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone UnderPF Fuse 1A 5A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Fuse under the playfield of a Cyclone, which powers solenoids 1A and 5A]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Both the outhole solenoid (1a) and drop target reset solenoid (5a) are the only multiplexed 24v coils in Cyclone.  The power wires for these coils are brown.  For some reason, Williams decided it would be a good idea to put a fuse under the playfield for these coils &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(which is not included in the documentation)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.  The fuse/fuseholder is located just to the right of the spook house subway.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids Are Not Pulsed During Solenoid Test on System 9 Games===&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the enabling switch associated with the special solenoid device.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU energizes a coil 5 times===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Police Force&#039;&#039;&#039; - After the pinball is switched on the ramp diverter coil engages 5 times. After the game start the diverter coil engages 5 times again. Diverter mechanism doesn&#039;t hold in position. So after the coil is energized the mechanism falls back and so the switch is closed again. Then the software tries another 4 times to resolve the problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; Clean the diverter mechanism and in particular the plastic. Lubricate the plastic lanes!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Elvira and the Party Monsters drop target reset coil blows the lamp matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
The drop target reset coil should be mounted with the solder tabs down. If mounted with the solder tabs up, (toward the playfield) the solder tabs can contact the J-A-M lamp sockets. This blows the lamp matrix ICs on the MPU board by sending coil voltage through the lamp matrix.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=25023</id>
		<title>Williams System 9 - 11</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=25023"/>
		<updated>2025-03-13T00:57:07Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms sys9 boardset.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 Board Set from Space Shuttle]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingBackbox.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 (nothing) Board Set from High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Boardset.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 11A Board Set from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Jokerz Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11b Board Set from Jokerz! (Note that power supply is a prototype)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sy11B Boardset.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11b Board Set from Transporter the Rescue]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11C_Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|System 11c Board Set from Rollergames]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams system 7 boardset was replaced in 1984 with the system 9 boardset, and then again in 1985 with the system 11 boardset.  Combining the driver board, sound board, and cpu directly onto one board eliminated several design deficiencies of the earlier 3-7 boardsets; mainly the 40 pin interconnector, and extra wiring harness inter-board connectors.  Larger ROMs could be fitted directly onto the boards allowing for more complex rulesets and sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 and System 11 board sets are not 100% compatible. With a fair amount of effort, a System 11 board could be made compatible with a System 9, but it is not worth the extended effort to change the jumpers. It&#039;s far easier to just modify the rom images so that they are plug and play when installed in a System 11 CPU. You can find them already on the ipdb. The primary differences between the System 9 and System 11 board sets are the sound system and rom space.&lt;br /&gt;
(add more info later)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As time went on, the System 11 board set underwent some changes too.  The power supply, sound board, and CPU / driver board have minor changes.  More apparent was the addition of circuit boards.  Starting with the 11a board set, a more complex sound board was added (System 11 sound boards are strictly background sounds only).  Later in the System 11 series, sound functions were partially (11B) or fully removed (11C) from the MPU, and eventually were solely handled by a dedicated sound board. Game-specific interconnect boards and auxiliary power driver boards were introduced in System 11B games.  The interconnect boards acted as a pass-through for switch, lamp, flasher, and solenoid signal lines and circuits. It also allowed circuits with different voltages to share the same power source by using current limiting resistors to drop voltages to the appropriate levels.  All general illumination fuses were moved to this board.  The auxiliary power driver board has the AC relay, which finally centralized the location of it.  Likewise, several fuses, beefier TIP36C transistors, and bridge rectifiers are centralized on the auxiliary power driver board.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|Strike Zone|| 1984 || 1916  || unknown || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light|| 06-1984 || 530 || no speech || || 5610-09563-00 || only a few were made with System 9 boards inside&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Space Shuttle|| 12-1984 || 535 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sorcerer|| 03-1985 || 532 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet|| 06-1985 || 540 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alley Cats|| 10-1985 || 1918 || Unknown ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[High Speed]]|| 01-1986 || 541 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grand Lizard|| 04-1986 || 523 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Road Kings|| 07-1986 || 542 || D-11197-542 (Background music only)  || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinbot|| 10-1986 || 549 || D-11297-549 (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tic Tac Strike|| 11-1986 || 1919 || Unknown ||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Millionaire|| 01-1987 || 555 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11298-555.JPG | D-11298-555]] (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|F-14 Tomcat|| 03-1987 || 554 || D-11298-554 (Used on 1st 5,000 games - Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound) / D-11581-554 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire!|| 08-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire! Champagne Edition|| 09-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
!Aux Power Driver&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big Guns|| 10-1987 || 557 || D-11581-557 || D-8345-557 || D-11583-557 || C-11762 || Uses D-11814 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Space Station]]|| 12-1987 || 552 || D-11581-552 || D-8345-557  || D-11813-552 || C-11762-552 || Uses D-11814-552 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Mine|| 01-1988 || 1920 || None || D-8345-1914 || None || None ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone|| 02-1988 || 564 ||[[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG | D-11581-564]]  || D-8345-557  ||  D-11813-574 || C-11762-564|| Uses D-11814-564 Flash Lamp Resistor Board  || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run|| 05-1988 || 566 || D-11581-566 || D-8345-566 ||D-12247-566 || D-12112 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Swords of Fury]]|| 06-1988 || 559 || D-11581-559 || D-8345-557 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-559 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Taxi|| 08-1988 || 553 || D-11581-553 || D-12246-553 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-553 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Top Dawg|| 11-1988 || 1921 || None || D-12246 || None || D-12313-1921 || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jokerz!|| 12-1988 || 567 || D-12338-567 || D-12246 ||  D-12247-559|| D-12313-567 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Earthshaker]]|| 02-1989 || 568 || [[Media:System 11 Sound Board.JPG | D-11581-568]] || D-12246-568 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-568|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight 2000]]|| 04-1989 || 563 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-585.JPG | D-11581-585]] || D-12246 || D-12247-563 || D-12313-563|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Transporter the Rescue|| 04-1989 || 2008 || D-11581-2008 || D-12246  || D-12247-2008|| D-12313-2008 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Police Force|| 08-1989 || 573 || D-11581-573 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-573|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Shuffle Inn|| 10-1989 || 1922 || None (assumed) || D-12246 (assumed) || None || D-12313-1922 (assumed)||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Elvira and the Party Monsters|| 10-1989 || 2011 || D-11581-2011 || D-12246 || D-12247-2011|| D-12313-2011 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats|| 11-1989 || 575 || D-11581-575 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-575|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mousin&#039; Around!|| 12-1989 || 2009 || D-11581-2009 || D-12246 ||D-12247-2009 || D-12313-2209 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Whirlwind]]|| 01-1990 || 574 || D-11581-574 || D-12246 || D-12247-574 ||D-12313-574 || Uses a C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board to control 5 extra devices || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11C===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Bally Game Show|| 04-1990 || 2003 || D-11581-2003 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2003 || Uses a C-13286 Sound Overlay Lamp Board || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pool Sharks|| 06-1990 || 2014 || D-11581-2014 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2014 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Rollergames]]|| 06-1990 || 576 || D-11581-576 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-576 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner|| 09-1990 || 571 || D-11581-571 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-571 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Radical!|| 09-1990 || 2015 || D-11581-2015 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2015 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude|| 11-1990 || 2016 || D-11581-2016 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2016 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Riverboat Gambler]]|| 11-1990 || 50007 || D-11581-50007 w/ 512K ROMS (assumed) || D-12313-50007|| || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball|| 01-1991 || 20009 || D-11581-20009 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-20009 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Documentation Errors====&lt;br /&gt;
* Error on the [[High_Speed#MPU_Schematics_Error_for_U21_.26_U22|MPU I/O signals for U21 / U22 of High Speed]].&lt;br /&gt;
* [[#Flipper_Circuit_Schematics_Error|Flipper Circuit Schematics Error]] in the manuals for High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Details for board and cabinet schematics System 9-11 games can be found in the game manual or parts catalogs. Some copies can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball] or on [http://www.ipdb.org/ IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Troubleshooting &amp;amp; Reference Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|69-8955 (April 21, 1986)&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-pinball-troubleshooting-reference-manual_16-8955_sys9.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet, High Speed, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
|System 9 games. Also includes Strike Zone shuffle alley game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|D-11581 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Parts Catalogs===&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Parts catalogs also had supplementary updates to add and replace pages as newer games were released after the initial release of the catalogs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1986-1989)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/rvsk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-blue-book_16-9064-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Black Knight 2000, Comet, Cyclone, Earthshaker!, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Jokerz!, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Police Force, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (1989-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/feme/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-red-book_16-9190-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Dracula, Fish Tales, Funhouse, The Getaway, Hurricane, The Machine, Riverboat Gambler, Rollergames, Slugfest, Terminator 2, Whirlwind, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/itjk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Bally-midway-parts-catalog-yellow-book_16-9147-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Atlantis, Black Rose, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Dr. Who, Elvira, Game Show, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Party Zone, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Supplementary service bulletin books were released, which included service bulletins that detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1989&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-Service-Bulletin-Book-1989-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1989.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone, Bonzai Run, Taxi, Earthshaker, Truck Stop, Transporter&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1990&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1990-service-bulletin-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1990.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner, Police Force, Pool Sharks, Rollergames&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1991-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude, Jokerz, Riverboat Gambler&lt;br /&gt;
|This book includes some WPC games&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 eliminated a huge issue with the earlier system 3 through 7 boardsets, the 40 pin interconnect between the MPU and Driver boards.  All circuitry previously separated into MPU, driver, and sound boards was combined into a single MPU board. Satellite boards were still used for displays, speech, and solenoid expansion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with &#039;&#039;&#039;Big Guns&#039;&#039;&#039;, Williams introduced another weak link into their system, the interconnect board. Initial implementations were used to disperse the general illumination between the playfield and backbox. The connectors on interconnect boards were prone to overheating and failure just like prior implementations. At the same time, flash lamp resistor boards were being used. These were created to collocate all of the flashlamp current limiting resistors, and eliminate under playfield flashlamp resistor boards, which had proven themselves problematic in the high heat, high vibration environment under the playfield. Resistors often desoldered themselves and/or vibrated so much that the connection fractured. Flash lamp resistor boards were only used on three games:  Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone. In addition to the interconnect and the flash lamp resistor board, the auxiliary power driver board made its appearance. The auxiliary power driver board housed all of the high current transistors (TIP36c), solenoid and flasher fuses (including discrete flipper fuses), the AC select relay, and the solenoid power bridge rectifiers. The auxiliary power driver board did go through some minor changes, but it was functionally equivalent through the last System 11C game.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Banzai Run, a more standardized interconnect board was created. This interconnect board merged the general illumination interconnect with the flasher driver board. Switch and lamp circuits passed directly through this board as a matter of manufacturing convenience. Later interconnect boards added 3 opto couplers to indicate when the flippers and AC relay were activated (the same circuitry as used in the flipper power section of the WPC-089 -1 Power/Driver board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest advantages of the system 11 board set is its ability to switch one set of coil driver transistors between 2 sets of coils/flashers. This is accomplished via a relay on a separate board called the A/C select relay (the A/C select relay was eventually moved to the auxiliary power driver board starting with Big Guns). The theory is that coils that are less frequently activated will be on the A side of the relay, and that flashers will be on the C side of the relay.  Most of the time during gameplay, the C side is active, enabling the flashers. If the driver transistor for the A/C select relay itself shorts, the relay defaults to the coil side, allowing the game to continue to operate in a reasonable fashion (usually the A side coils are the ball shooter lane, drop target resets, VUK - basically coils that don&#039;t need to be able to operate 100% of the time unlike a slingshot coil or pop bumper coil).  Data East&#039;s board set was essentially a copy of the system 11 board set, but Data East programmed it the opposite way, so that the flasher side of the A/C select relay is active by default. Data East games, when the A/C relay doesn&#039;t operate, just sits there and flashes lamps instead of playing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and early System 11 games do share a disadvantage with the earlier 3-7 board sets, they still utilize special solenoid circuitry. The pops and slings on system 9/11 games do not activate via a switch which is seen by the MPU&#039;s program which fires the coil. Instead, the switches directly fire their associated coils via logic gates on the main board. The main disadvantage with this system is that the solenoids fire continuously as long as their activation switch is closed. A locked on sling or pop will burn out components quickly. It is recommended to add a 1, 1.5, or 2 amp inline fuse to each coil on a directly fired system 11 game. Usually just the pops and slings are direct fired coils. However, other coils were designated to the special solenoids. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games did not use the direct fire solenoid switches. Switches on the switch matrix were used instead. To easily identify games which do not use direct fire solenoid switches, IJ18 on the MPU board will not have a harness connection attached to it.  Likewise, the slingshots and pop bumpers will no longer have a set of scoring switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One way that System 9 games differ from the previous 3-7 board set is that the special solenoids are not controlled by the CPU at all. In other words, the special solenoids are not pulsed during solenoid test, as the physical board architecture does allow for this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The software in system 9-11 games continued with the same machine architecture from system 6 and 7, except for the special solenoids as mentioned above. More ram became available, up to 2k, but no game used over 800 bytes. This is likely due to the lower cost of 6264 RAM than 6116 RAM as was used in early System 9-11 games more than any other reason. Additional diagnostics in the form of switch error checking appeared in system 11. Any switch not activated over 30 games (16 games for flipper switches) would cause an error to be called out at power on. The software was able to compensate for broken switches by designating another switch to perform the same function as the broken switch.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9MPU.jpg |300px|thumb|left|System 9 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9MPUFactoryMod.jpg |300px|thumb|right|These high frequency filter capacitors were added at the factory, and are normal. Their purpose is the snub high frequency noise in the Advance and Auto Up/Down coin door button circuits.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 9 MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a single version of the System 9 MPU in all System 9 games. A few minor modifications to the board may have been made, but it&#039;s essentially the same board for the entire 3 game run of Space Shuttle, Sorcerer, and Comet. The picture at left shows an early board that featured two inductors (copper wound coils that &amp;quot;smooth&amp;quot; DC power) at L1 and L2, adjacent to connector 1J17. Later revisions of the board used &amp;quot;zero ohm&amp;quot; jumpers instead, presumably to reduce cost.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUFront.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 10 MPU component side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUBack.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Williams System 10 MPU solder side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams released a single game using an MPU board designated &#039;&#039;&#039;System 10&#039;&#039;&#039;. The game &amp;quot;4-in-1&amp;quot; ([https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=4-in-1&amp;amp;sortby=name&amp;amp;search=Search+Database&amp;amp;searchtype=quick IPDB link]) was released in 1985 and is more like Pachinko than pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From the Internet Pinball Database:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;&amp;quot;This game is known in Williams documentation as &amp;quot;4-IN-1&amp;quot; but that name never appears on the game itself. A total of 100 games were produced. Each came with four interchangeable playfield overlays for the themes of Baseball, Poker, Football, and Soccer. The operator could change the overlay and Instruction Card, re-option switches, and have a new game in the same cabinet.&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11&#039;&#039;&#039; games used one of four different revisions of the System 11 MPU. The first version of the System 11 MPU was completely self-contained, able to make game sounds on the board. A simple background sound board was used to add some game sounds. Between the baseline revision of the System 11 MPU and the last revision of the MPU (System 11C) incrementally more of the sound processing and sound circuitry was removed from the board (not stuffed).  None of the System 11 shuffle alley games use a separate sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem11CPU.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early System 11 (nothing) MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingLater.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Later System 11 (nothing) MPU. Note extensive alkaline corrosion abatement, NVRAM install, and use of modern reset generator. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11 (nothing) MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This picture shows the early System 11 MPU. A later revision of this MPU, pictured at right, has an additional jumper W16 located between the 7 segment diagnostic display and the relay, and a 4.7K ohm resistor between the 7447 and the resistor DIP. The early PCB on the left has a trace routing error to the sound ribbon cable connector. If you use it with a later system 11A sound card you will get no sound because the sound card doesn&#039;t get reset properly. If you wonder why your High Speed doesn&#039;t beep when turning it on this one is also the culprit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11ZenerDiodeAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes added to the back of the System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were added to the layout of the PCB in subsequent revisions of the board (11A, etc).]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|right|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) incorporated into the board layout and stuffed at the factory on a later board revision. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows six 6.2V zener diodes added to the solder side of a System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were left off the factory silkscreen of the board. Later revisions of the System 11 MPU added them to the component side of the board. Their purpose is to protect the special solenoid switch inputs. Either a ZPY6,2/ZD6,2/1N4735A (1 watt) or ZF5,2/1N5234B (1/2 watt) can be used. This mod is purely optional. In reality the diode doesn&#039;t help much if you short the switch input with the solenoid voltage. In this case the diode and the 7402 are usually damaged and need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, if the System 11 (nothing) MPU is used in a System 11A game or later, pins 6 and 7 of the adjacent connector (J18) must be tied to the ground plane at the edge of the board. These pins provide the ground for the special solenoids. Without the modification they do not work. Some early System 11A pins might not need the mod. If unsure just check if a cable is connected to pin 6 or 7 in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A-PB.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A rare prototype System 11a MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11aTransitionVersion.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Blanking, 5VDC, and Diagnostic LEDs factory installed in a &amp;quot;transition&amp;quot; vintage System 11a MPU. The prior version 7447 (U48) and resistor DIP (U47) has been replaced with a 7407, discrete resistors and LEDs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11TransitionTag.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A prototype System 11a MPU with original label]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11a &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Prototype&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This MPU was only used in Pin Bot. It&#039;s actually a System 11 (nothing) MPU PCB layout, with the  7 segment LED display replaced at the factory with 3 LEDs as used in all later System 11 MPUs (11A/B/C). The latest trace revision of this board also has the ground mod (connect 1J18, pins 6 and 7 to board ground) allowing it to work in any 11A/B/C game without modification. According to a friend it was referred to by the name of 11a instead of 11A by distributors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A late production System 11A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11A MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11A MPU can be used in all System 11 games. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and possibly the amplifier section must be stuffed. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board. On early production system 11A boards, the amplifier section was fully stuffed, just like the original System 11 board. Later in the production of System 11A boards, the amplifier section was not stuffed, just like an 11B board. But unlike System 11B boards, the System 11A board still has the same switch section layout as the original System 11 MPU, making it easy to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 CPU Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11B MPU. Note that a large portion of the sound circuitry, including the TDA2002 amp, was not stuffed in late System 11A boards or any System 11B MPU boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11B MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11B MPU can be used in all System 11 games too. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and all of the sound amplification components must be added to the board. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11C.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C MPU. Note that none of the sound circuitry, including the 6802 processor and 6821 PIA, is stuffed in System 11C MPU boards. All sounds were generated by the sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11C MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11C MPU can be used only in System 11C games since none of the sound processing circuitry was stuffed.  It can be used in games prior to 11C, if the sound section is populated.  However, some of the components needed are rare and / or costly, and there are a fair amount to install.  If there is no other choice but to use this board, it is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU9211.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU004.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The RottenDog &amp;quot;MPU004&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU with sound section overlay]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;RottenDog MPU9211 and MPU004 Aftermarket MPUs&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU9211 (shown at left) was designed to support all Williams System 9 - 11 games. How well the board works across that great breadth of games is somewhat questionable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CVSD used on this board is a CMX639D4 produced by CML Microcircuits. It replaces the 55516 (or 55536) CVSD used at U3 on original System 9 - 11 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU004 (shown at right) was an earlier design thought to support all Data East and System 11 games. Again, how well the board accomplishes this for Williams games is questionable. A significant source of confusion on this board (like all RottenDog boards with DIP switches) is that the DIP switches are labeled opposite of traditional labeling. That is, set all switches to OFF for Williams games, ON for Data East games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDWilliams9211LaterRev.jpg |300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU, later revision]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A later revision of the RottenDog 9211 MPU included a second trim POT to adjust the balance between 1408 DAC sounds and 55536 CVSD sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Picture of the lamp column portion of the lamp matrix of a System 9 MPU board.  Note that the TIP42 drive transistors were removed from this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The lamp matrix is made up of two parts - the lamp columns (drives) and lamp rows (returns).  In most cases, the lamp row consists of eight 2N5060 over-current shunt SCR&#039;s and eight TIP122 drive transistors, while the lamp column consists of eight 2N6427 predrive transistors (WMS sometimes used MPS-A14 instead) and eight TIP42 or TIP42C transistors.  However, there are some instances, as shown in the pic to the left, where the predrive transistors for the lamp columns are 2N6548s.  It is unknown why Williams chose to use these transistors on occasion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The over-current shunt circuit on the lamp row (returns) works by sensing the voltage drop across the 0.4 ohm, 3 Watt resistor on emitter of the TIP122 driver transistor. If a short circuit is present in the lamp row, the short circuit current will result in a higher than normal voltage drop across the emitter resistor. This voltage will trigger the gate of the 2N5060 SCR, causing it to turn on and shunt the base drive to the TIP122 transistor. This will turn off the driver transistor and prevent damage due to excessive current. Note that an RC circuit consisting of a 0.1uF capacitor and 1K ohm resistor is present on the gate of the SCR. This prevents a false trigger of the over-current shunt circuit due to an initial peak current from cold lamp filaments.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Switch Matrix Explained=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System9SwitchMatrix.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The System 9 Switch Matrix circuitry, as found in the Sorcerer manual.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Description&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At regular intervals, say 1 every msec or so, the 6808 microprocessor scans the switch matrix. This is done by pulling one switch column to ground, then sensing the switch row return state. Each row on which ground is detected means that the switch at the intersection of the column grounded and the detected row ground, is closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Hardware Detail&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 writes the column data to the address location occupied by the 6821 at U15 on the board. This causes the 6821 output registers (PB0 – PB7) to propagate the data to a 74LS244 octal buffer at U45. The 74LS244 mirrors that same data at it&#039;s output pins. The data pattern on these output pins will have all bits set to logic “1” except one bit, which will be set to logic zero, or electrical ground. The ground is applied to the base of a 2N3904 transistor (which had been held high by a 4.7K SIP pull-up resistor SR8) where the ground is applied to the switch column (called switch matrix drives on the schematic).&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Closed switches connected to that column will then cause the normally high (via yet another pull up resistor, SR16) gate at a 74LS08 quad NAND gate (U51 and U52) to be pulled to ground. This NAND gate enables the circuitry to detect a switch closure returned via either connector 1J9 or 1J10.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 then “reads” the row returns by reading from the address space occupied by the same 6821 at U15 used to pulse the column strobes earlier. This time it reads 6821 registers PA0 – PA7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the processor knows which column it drew to ground, and it knows which rows were caused to be pulled to ground via closed switches attached to the column. From this information, the closed switches can be identified. Genius. Bania: “I&#039;m tellin&#039; ya Jerry, this switch matrix stuff is gold Jerry, it&#039;s gold!”.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch diode isolates the switch in the matrix. Without this isolation diode, multiple simultaneous switch closures will cause false returns and confuse the processor. A switch diode that is open will always prevent a switch from registering, in the same way that a broken wire or failed open switch would.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jumper Settings and Locations for System 9 &amp;amp; 11 MPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are charts of the jumpers on System 9 &amp;amp; 11 boards.  Rather than listing the boards by their platform (System 11A/B/C), each chart is listed by the numbers stenciled on the circuit boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10749-00 REV. C (System 9)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W2, W5, W6, W7, W9, &amp;amp; W12.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1 / W2|| Below U12  || Microprocessor Internal RAM Enable. W1 IN, W2 OUT when using 6802, reverse when using 6808 || U12 RAM can be removed with 6802 and W1 installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W3||  ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Left of U49 || Country jumper. Remove for German factory settings, add for US factory settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U5 || Along with W7, used to send +12V to opto rows   || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U5 || Along with W6, used to send +12V to opto rows  || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +12v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W9|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +5v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10|| Below U50  || Installed - sounds from CPU board can be played without speech board attached  || Typically not installed, except Strike Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W11|| Below U37 ||  Used when U19 game ROM 2 is used || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| Below U36 || Used to increase U20 game ROM 1 size from 2764 to 27128 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. - (Typically System 11)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, &amp;amp; W7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U48 || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. B (Typically System 11 - Referred to as Prototype System 11a in text above)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU    || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Blanking signal to input &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; of U48 LED decoder chip  || not present on first pcb revision&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12091-00 REV. - (Typically System 11A)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| Below U23 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12206-00 REV. A (Typically System 11B &amp;amp; 11C)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U25  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U25  || only 2K will be used from the factory&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs ||  Remove for German text, add for English text || This jumper is not used in games with 16 digit score displays. Instead, install the U26 and U27 EPROMs for country and game. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| To the left of U24|| Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W18 || Below U23 || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U23 || only 2K will be used. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W19 || Below U23 || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U23 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Combining the System 9 Sound ROM Images====&lt;br /&gt;
Pinside user, &amp;quot;Dumbass&amp;quot;, has created replacement System 9 MPU boards.  One of the new things that he implemented in the board design is a daughterboard that can be mounted to the main MPU, which handles the speech duties.  Therefore, the speech board with its sometimes problematic ribbon cable no longer has to be used.  However, the sound and speech chip code now has to be combined together on a 27256 PROM, which is used at position U49.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
The file [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732] is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[File:Pad.zip]]. Below is how the code should be concatenated for it to work properly.  It is very similar to what is done for the System 9 code to be modified for a System 11 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Space Shuttle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = 0000h&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sorcerer&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = E67Fh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Comet&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum =  F9CCh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Converting the System 9 ROM Images to work in a System 11 MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to create System 11 compatible ROM images from System 9 ROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The file &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;[https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[file:Pad.zip]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 CPU works out of the box with a 27128 EPROM at location U27. You may choose to double the ROM image, creating a 27256 image so that its size is consistent with the other System 11 U27 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove jumper W8 and install jumper W9 on the System 11 CPU to enable sound to work properly. System 11 controls the sound reset via software. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Space Shuttle=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sorcerer=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u21.128 + cpu_u21.128 cpu_u21.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u22.128 + cpu_u22.128 cpu_u22.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.732 + cpu_u20.764 cpu_u20.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.l2.bin + cpu_u20.l2.bin cpu_u20.l2.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.l2.128 + cpu_u20.l2.128 cpu_u27.l2.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sorcerer is the only System 9 pinball game using 2 ROMs which make things complicated for repair. You can use the cpu_u20.128 image in a system 9 CPU jumpered for Space Shuttle or Comet. If you install W12 and remove W11 the CPU will be jumpered for a 27128 EPROM. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Comet=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 /b    &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech 2532.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board Using 2532 PROMs (from Space Shuttle)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|System 9 Speech Board Using 2732 PROMs (from Comet)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The speech board used in the three System 9 games, Space Shuttle, Sorcerer and Comet is essentially the same as the speech board used in System 6/7 games. However the speech board was enhanced during the Space Shuttle run. Four jumpers were added to accomodate either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs. When burning EPROMs, make certain which style of ROM is used.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Early Later.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board - Left unit is from early Space Shuttle, right is from later Space Shuttle]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Only the early Space Shuttles use 2532 EPROMs from the factory. Later Shuttles, Sorcerer and Comet use 2732 EPROMs.  The later speech board is backward compatible. If using such a board, either 2532s or 2732s can be used for the first two System 9 games (or System 6/7 games), provided that the jumpers are set for the appropriate EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the speech board generating speech sounds, it mixes the sound and speech signals via the potentiometer on the speech board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsSystem11BackgroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Background Sound board as found in High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11197 Road Kings Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11197 Background Sound board as found in Road Kings]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsD-11297BackGroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11297 Sound board as found in Pinbot, fully populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11298 Pinbot Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11298 Sound board as found in Pinbot. This version only has U4 populated (U19 is not).  Uncertain why U19 is needed.  Note that the CVSD &amp;quot;lane&amp;quot; of the board is not stuffed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System_11_Sound_Board.JPG|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound board, not completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D-11581-F14.jpg ‎|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound board, completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated, with W10/W11 Jumpers. W10/W11 enable use of 512K sound ROMs as found in all System 11C games like Game Show, Dr. Dude, Pool Sharks, Rollergames, Diner, Radical, and Bugs Bunny]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-12238 Jokerz Sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:JokerzSoundBoardPinOut.png|700px|thumb|right|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only - Connector PinOut]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581SchematicIcon.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Use hyperlink at right to open D-11581 sound board schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581PartsDelta.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Parts missing from partially populated D-11581 sound boards]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Link to:&#039;&#039;&#039; [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|Schematics for the D-11581 sound board]].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The parts shown at right represent the delta from a partially populated D-11581 to a fully populated D-11581. *The value of R13 will vary between 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms) and 10Kohms. If R14 and R15 are 10Kohms, then R13 should be 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms). If R14 and R15 are 20Kohms, then R13 should be 10Kohms.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem11PSPreBigGuns.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Pre-Taxi Power/Regulator Board. This power supply has had the header pins replaced and the 5V filter cap at C10 replaced. Note that this board has the 20A fuse for the GI still installed. This indicates that it is an early System 7 board. The fuse and it&#039;s holder should be replaced by a wire in all System 9 and 11 games]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_B.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply - Revision B (Pinbot)  Note that the top fuse holder just below the large 15000uF capacitor is broken on the left side]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These power supplies use obsolete parts at Q1 (SDS-201) and Q3 (SDS-202). The PCB print was used from Black Knight through Swords of Fury, with slight modifications. Up until and including Fire!, Q1 and Q3 were the obsolete SDS-201 and SDS-202. Starting with some Fire!, the board uses an MJE15030 at Q1 and an MJE15031 at Q3. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-201 at Q1 may be &amp;quot;6557&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9057S&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-202 at Q3 may be &amp;quot;MDS60&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9058S&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlyWMSPowerSupplyTraceRoutingErrorCloseUpAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of the corrected trace routing error on a Fire! power supply board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply (High Speed) Schematics.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There was a trace routing error on the original Fire! power supply pcbs. WMS cut the trace and used a jumper to correct the error. This error was corrected in the PCB layout at the start of &amp;quot;Big Guns&amp;quot; game production.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_E.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS Power Supply - Revision E (Cyclone)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Big Guns and games after, the solenoid and lamp power power sections were no longer stuffed because they were relocated to the Aux Power board. The GI relay is also missing on these boards because discrete GI relay boards were placed under the playfield and/or behind the backbox lamp insert.  By doing this, specific GI strings could be turned on/off versus &amp;quot;all or none&amp;quot; of the general illumination.  This later board has the fuses only for display and 5V power. In a pinch, the unstuffed parts could be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Big Guns, 2 100mA (1/10A) SB fuses are installed just to the left of the power supply in the backbox. These fuses protect the +100V and -100V circuits against shorts. Not all games used 1/10A slo-blo fuses. Some games used 1/8ASB fuses instead. This may have been due to 1/8ASB fuses being more readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics for this power supply also list part numbers MPSD52 and MPSD02. The equivalent part number for an MPSD52 is a 2N5401. The equivalent part number for an MPSD02 is a 2N5551.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Regulator Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSPSSchematic1503015031.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Schematics for Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used from Taxi thru the remainder of the System 11 game production. &lt;br /&gt;
Note that Taxi used an early revision of the board. The placement of some of the resistors and zener diodes in the HV section of that board is different from later boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===50V Flipper Power Supply Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Williams50VPowerSupply.jpg|300px|thumb|left|50VDC power supply as used in System 11 (nothing) and 11A games (C-9939).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games all used the 50V power supply board as pictured at left. This simple board takes 48VAC from the transformer secondary and uses a 35A/400V bridge rectifier to produce about 50VDC. The voltage is smoothed somewhat by a 100uf electrolytic capacitor. The transformer secondary is protected from a short in the bridge rectifier by either a 4ASB or a 5ASB fuse. Be sure to consult the manual for your game for the proper fuse value. Never overfuse a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Power Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
At least two different revisions of the Aux Power Board were used in System 11B/11C games, pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Auxiliary Power Board from Space Station (D-11813-552)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 Power.JPG|400px|thumb|center|Auxiliary Power Board from Earthshaker (D-12247-568)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Interconnect Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Interconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Backbox Interconnect Board from Space Station]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Lamp Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Earthshaker]]&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board was essentially designed for ease of manufacturing and assembly.  When Williams ultimately settled on using the same unit in all games, (give or take some parts here or there), modularity was apparent too.  There was no longer a need to build complex, custom wiring harnesses between the CPU / driver board, backbox insert, and playfield.  The interconnect board remedied this issue.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanzaiRunInterconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Banzai Run]]Although the first four System 11B games, which include Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone use some form of an interconnect board, it wasn&#039;t until Swords of Fury when the interconnect board was used as a standard for the remaining System 11 games.  The interconnect for Banzai Run (shown on the right) is completely different from anything else used by any game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board used in Swords of Fury uses a different part number, D-12185-559, compared to later System 11 games that used part number D-12313-x (x denotes the game&#039;s model number). They are not interchangable. Swords of Fury and Taxi had lane change switches still mounted on the cabinet. With later games lane change switches were removed and two optocouplers at position U2 and U3 (connected to the switch returns) were added to the board. The circuit is essentially the same as was used in early WPC games and enabled elimination of problematic physical lane change switches from the game. Starting with Jokerz, the third coupler at position U1 is used by the game software to check if the A/C relay on the aux power board is working.  U1 transmits information back to the MPU as switch 2 on the switch matrix, provided that the A/C has energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The early versions of the interconnect board were located on the left side of the backbox and positioned vertically.  The more common interconnect boards were located in the backbox positioned horizontally, just below the CPU board.  The later board passes the following circuits:&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp general illumination circuits&lt;br /&gt;
*flipper power and ground&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp columns and rows&lt;br /&gt;
*switch columns and rows &lt;br /&gt;
*flash lamp power&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What differentiates the board from game to game are the resistor values used for the flash lamp power circuits.  In some cases, some of the resistors are left unpopulated and / or a zero ohm jumper is installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (C-8363)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 SS Sorc Master Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|C-8363 Early System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This is the same master display that is used on all System 6A and System 7 games and is used on most System 9 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (D-10749)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10749.jpg|300px|thumb|left|D-10749 Late System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This master display board was introduced during the System 9 run and is mostly found in some of the later Comets that were manufactured.  The major difference between this master display board (D-10749) and the previous master display board (C-8363) is the D-10749 board replaced the card-edge connectors used on the C-8363 with pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any System 9 machine that is wired with card-edge connectors to use a C-8363 master display board can be converted to use a D-10749 master display board by re-wiring to use pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the mapping of the connectors &amp;amp; pins from a C-8363 to a D-10749 to aid in this conversion:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!D-10749 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!C-8363 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 16&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-14&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 15&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-16&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 14&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-17&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 13&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-13&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 12&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-12&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 11&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-15&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-7&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-8&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 10&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 9&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 8&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 7&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-11&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 6&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-10&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 5&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 3&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-7&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-8&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 1&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-1&lt;br /&gt;
|D1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-2&lt;br /&gt;
|C1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-3&lt;br /&gt;
|B1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-4&lt;br /&gt;
|A1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-5&lt;br /&gt;
|D2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-6&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-7&lt;br /&gt;
|C2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-8&lt;br /&gt;
|B2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-9&lt;br /&gt;
|A2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-10&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-18&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-11&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-1&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-2&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-3&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-4&lt;br /&gt;
| +100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-5&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C.&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-6&lt;br /&gt;
| +5 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-1&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C. on D-10749&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 (Discrete Displays High Speed to Pin Bot and Banzai Run)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10877.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-10877WithAlternate7180.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|System 11 Master Display Driver Board with UDN7180 &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot;. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Aaron Gross&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right shows &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot; that replace UDN7180 chips, which were beginning to be become expensive and harder to obtain during the production run. The daughter cards use discrete transistors, much the same way as one version of the older System 3-6 Master Display Panel did. U9, U12, U13, and U14, originally UDN7180s, have been replaced on this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A (Millionaire / Early F-14)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11414-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A Millionaire Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB actually came out of an early F-14 where they were recycled. Millionaire had it fully populated with additional lamp covers. The mounting brackets for the later D-11610 display changed so if you get a replacement for your F-14 first check which one is used in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A/B (F-14 to Swords of Fury)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11610.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A/B 4 7 Digit Segmented Displays Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (Taxi and Police Force)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-2.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B Display Driver Board D-12232-2 for 2 16 digit segmented displays + one external connector for a 7 digit display]]&lt;br /&gt;
Taxi and Police Force uses a D-12232-2 master display with J4 ribbon connector stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Taxi and Police Force. You would need to add U3 (6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connector J4. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (all other WMS 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12232.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B/C Display Driver Board D-12232-1 for 2 16 digit displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11C (Riverboat Gamber)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-3.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C Display Driver Board D-12232-3 for 2 16 digit displays and 2 connectors for 7 digit jackpot displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
Riverboat Gambler uses a D-12232-3 master display with all ribbon connectors stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Riverboat Gambler. You would need to add U3 and U4 (both a 6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connectors J4 and J6. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display. This display can also be used in Police Force and Taxi.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B/C (all Bally 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Bally-L16-Display.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally left side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12502-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally right side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Other Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Overlay Board (C-13287)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlWindSoundOverlayBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams &amp;quot;C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board&amp;quot; as found in WhirlWind.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This relatively simple board was used on Whirlwind only to accommodate 5 additional solenoids (flashers or motors). The board logically sits between the System 11 MPU and the sound board, intercepting data normally sent directly to the sound board, and acting on that data only when specific codes are commanded. The board also relays data not specifically intended for it, on to the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Current Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS C-12493 High Current Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-12493 High Current Driver Board from Earthshaker]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The high current driver board was used on Earthshaker to drive the shaker motor. It was used on several other Bally/Williams WPC games while designated different part numbers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Space Station Opto Position Board (C-11872)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpaceStationOptoBoardC-11872.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-11872 Space Station Opto Positioner PC Board Assembly]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is unique to Space Station. The &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; at Q1 and Q2 (both 2N3906s) in the picture at left are clear silicone caulk used to dampen vibration on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Remotely Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Flasher Board Pinbot.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Flash Lamp Resistor Board (from Pinbot)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The earlier design of flash lamp resistor board was mounted under the playfield within in the vicinity of the flash lamp circuit(s) that were powered by it.  Each board had a maximum of 4 power resistors (2 per flash lamp circuit).  The higher resistance resistor is 330 ohm 7 watt, while the lower resistance resistor is 5 ohm 10 watt.  The purpose of the larger value resistor is to keep the flash lamp powered with minimal voltage.  This keeps the flash lamp filament &amp;quot;warm&amp;quot;, which puts less of a strain on the flash lamp.  In turn, it is supposed to extend the life of the flash lamp. The smaller value resistor is used as a current limiting resistor which allows the solenoid voltage to be supplied to power the flash lamp.  By powering the flash lamps with solenoid voltage, it eliminates the need for an additional, dedicated secondary transformer winding. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Centrally Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px heights=380px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Flash Lamp Resistor Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Big Guns Resistor Board.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-557(Big Guns)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:CycloneBigGunsFlashlampBoardD-11814-564.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-564 (Cyclone)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS_Space_Station_Resistor_Board_D-11814-552.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-552(Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were used on early System 11B games prior to the use of the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.  The board is located in a very awkward location.  It is screwed to the back of the lower cabinet. Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone all have this board in this location.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistors on the board &amp;quot;eat current&amp;quot; (limit current) since the 13V #89 flash lamps are wired to coil voltage (about 38VDC). When implementing this board, Williams chose to change the wire colors as the circuit passes through the board. Combined with the generally poor Williams System 11 documentation, this makes it tough to track down problems with non-working flash lamps. On the plus side, the wire wound cement resistors on the board do not fail often, probably due to the location of the board (resistor boards located under the playfield have high resistor failure rates due to heat and vibration).  However, they obviously can fail. If there is power at the flash lamp, but grounding the flash lamp transistor does not light the lamp, the associated drive transistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were abandoned after Space Station.  Flash lamp circuits and resistors became integrated into the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====A/C Relay====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early AC Relay.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A/C relay board (early design ie. F-14, Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A/C relay placed on aux power driver board starting with 11B games (later design)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Road Kings, System 11 games make use of what is referred to as an A/C relay.  The purpose of the A/C relay was to drive twice the amount of coils and flashers by using half the amount of drive transistors.  This process is commonly referred to as &amp;quot;multiplexing&amp;quot;.  Typically, if the A/C relay was at rest, the &amp;quot;A side&amp;quot; solenoids would engage.  When the A/C relay was powered, the &amp;quot;C side&amp;quot; flashers would engage. However, there were sometimes solenoids multiplexed with other solenoids.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, High Speed, which does not use an A/C relay, uses 8 discrete drive transistors to drive solenoids / flashers 1-8.  Pinbot, which does use an A/C relay, uses the same 8 discrete transistors to drive solenoids / flashers.  However, a total of 16 solenoids and flashers (A side and C side) are driven.  By employing the use of an A/C relay, the System 11 MPU / driver board could be used for many more years without a &amp;quot;drastic&amp;quot; redesign.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Initially, the A/C relay was located on a small circuit board under the playfield for System 11/11A games.  Likewise, this A/C relay board did not have Molex header connections.  Wires were directly soldered to the circuit board.  Once the Auxiliary Power Driver Board was introduced with the System 11B platform (starting with Big Guns), the A/C relay was moved to this board for all subsequent System 11B/11C games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the example of the A/C relay shown in the pic on the left, the only way to discern that the A/C relay is the highlighted relay board is due to the wire colors soldered to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode Board for Multiplexed Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board. As Found.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diode board as found mounted to the bottom of the playfield (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Diode board from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diodes from diode board moved to aux power driver board starting with 11B games]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Motor Control Board (D-12045)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12045.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams &amp;quot;D-12045&amp;quot; as found in Cyclone, Jokerz!, Riverboat Gambler and Diner.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in 4 Williams Games&lt;br /&gt;
* Cyclone ... for the random award wheel&lt;br /&gt;
* Jokerz! ... for draw poker (the wheel has various cards pictured on it), &lt;br /&gt;
* Riverboat Gambler ... for the backbox roulette wheel and&lt;br /&gt;
* Diner ... for the clock hands count time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board uses a single U-opto to detect the wheel at the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; position. The MPU implements an &amp;quot;open loop control system&amp;quot; stepping the motor to the desired position while assuming that each step was successful. The game flags an issue with the PCB/motor assembly when the software thinks that the wheel should be at the home position but the opto beam hasn&#039;t been broken by the opto interrupter on the back of the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Coils===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Flippers.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Serial wound flipper coils as seen on earlier (pre F-14 Tomcat) System 11 / 11A games (pic from Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Placeholder for Parallel wound flipper coils as seen on later (post F-14 Tomcat) System 11A/B/C games (pic from xxxx)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Parallel_Wound_Flippers.jpg|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for parallel wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later games (starting with F-14 Tomcat) used parallel wound coils, which have 2 diodes on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games use different parallel wound flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application.  Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |System 11 Flipper Coils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Color&lt;br /&gt;
!Strength&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11753 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weakest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11722 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weaker ||24-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11630 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Standard ||23-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11629 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Strongest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CoinDoorButtons.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Example System 11 Coin Door Buttons. The Advance button is missing it&#039;s black cap, and yes...that is a bit of soft drink spooge on the bracket.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The coin door buttons for system 9 and 11 games are shown at right. The function of the three buttons is (from left to right in the picture)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset High Score to Date&lt;br /&gt;
*Auto Up/Manual Down&lt;br /&gt;
*Advance&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Function of the Reset High Score to Date is self explanatory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Auto Up/Manual Down (AUMD) button is interpreted by the game software in multiple ways. Starting from attract mode, if the AUMD switch is up, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter audits and adjustments mode. If the AUMD switch is down, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter diagnostic mode. With the AUMD button in the up position during many of the diagnostic tests, the next step in the test will be automatically entered. For example, display test will display each digit on the display in turn. Coil test will advance through each coil. A particular step of the test may be paused on by pressing the AUMD button down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Advance switch moves the diagnostic, audit, or adjustment to the next step (or previous step if the AUMD button is down, except in diagnostic mode).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When in adjustments mode, the credit button is used to zero, turn off, or turn on features.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; One of the adjustment settings (adjustment 69 on High Speed for example) can be used to clear all of the game audits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of all diagnostic tests, the game will enter audits next, and then adjustments.  To exit diagnostics, audits, and / or adjustments, either advance until the last adjustment, or simply turn the machine off.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Transformer Power Selection Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 11 Power Selection Jumpers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys11 Transformer Power Selection.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Typical power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 115VAC (from Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11European220VSelection.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;European power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 220VAC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;1 - Black, 4 - White, 3/6 - Orange.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;Image courtesy of Chuck Sanderson&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Sporadic Problems in General - System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Headers.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Cracked Header Joints and Headers cut too deeply by factory on System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the previous Williams platforms, the System 9 platform is prone to cracked solder joints on the header pins.  Likewise, Williams&#039; board manufacturers had some tendencies to cut the header pins too short on the solder side.  By cutting the pins too short, the cuts partially go through the solder meniscus.  Cutting through the solder meniscus makes a solder joint less reliable, and it may prematurely fail over time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By having cracked solder joints and / or cut solder meniscus, sporadic issues may occur.  To resolve a cracked solder joint issue, the best approach is to completely remove the old solder, and add new solder to the joint.  Due to dirt and contaminants, simply adding solder to the existing joint is not sufficient.  If the header pins are cut too short, an attempt to remove the solder and new solder can be made.  However, in some instances the only resolution is to replace the header pin connector.  It is recommended to use a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-79.asp high quality replacement header].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Rectifier Fuses====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Fuses_Added_Before_Lamp_Solenoid_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AdditionalFuses.jpg|right|thumb|400px|The updated schematic (from High Speed) showing placement of additional transformer secondary fusing for solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A design flaw carried over from the earlier systems was the lack of fuses between the transformer secondary and the bridge rectifiers used for solenoid and controlled lamp power.  In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game should blow. But that is not always the case. If the primary power fuse fails to blow, the wiring between the transformer secondary and the bridge becomes the fuse. The resulting melted wiring is not pretty!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For games before Big Guns, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp fuse installed (Williams opted to use an 8A normal blo, while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses). For games after Big Guns, an 8A normal blo fuse is already present between the transformer secondary and the controlled lamp bridge. As for the solenoid bridge, the addition of the auxiliary power driver board added fusing to protect this circuit. The 25V and 50V solenoid bridges were added to this board. Both bridges are fused with 4A slo-blo fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem in the Inkochnito Bridge Board.&lt;br /&gt;
Surf on over to http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate to the 12 position wafer connection====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-WMS-System11PSCN1Alternative.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The severely burned wafer connector at Data East equivalent of J1 here has been replaced with parts currently available. Pins 5 and 8 are not populated as those connections are not used.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 position &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector (CN1 or J1 for Williams games), can be replaced with currently available parts, shown at left. The original &amp;quot;wafers&amp;quot; are difficult to find and pricey.&lt;br /&gt;
Part number for the alternate connector is Molex 03-09-2121 or 03-09-2122. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply Missing 5v Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
If an aftermarket Rottendog WDP011C power supply is missing 5v, and other common causes of a missing voltage have been ruled out, then it&#039;s likely that the 5v regulator at U191 has failed. An available replacement is the Texas Instruments PTR08060 5v regulator from [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/PTR08060WVD Mouser] or [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/PTR08060WVD/1698955 Digikey].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply - Big Guns &amp;amp; Cyclone GI Comes On, Game Doesn&#039;t Boot====&lt;br /&gt;
If using the now obsolete Rottendog WDP011A power supply for Williams Cyclone or Big Guns, the +12v jumper may have to be moved from the bottom jumper location to the top. If a Rottendog equipped Big Guns or Cyclone turns on the GI lights, but the game doesn&#039;t boot, (only the 5v light on the CPU is lit), this is most likely the reason.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 MPU Jumpers===&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, jumpers on the MPU board do not require modification. The default configuration works for all System 11 game ROMs. However, there are 5 exceptions as follows...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W7 - Language Select Jumper&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
W7 is used only in games up to Cyclone. Games with 16 digit alphanumeric displays do not use this jumper. If installed, the game automatically reverts to English after losing the content of the RAM. If a different language is preferred, the &amp;quot;adjustments&amp;quot; menu provides an option to change the default language. Only a few early System 11 game ROMs contained multiple languages. For these games, if W7 is removed, the game generally defaults to German text. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games used language specific ROMs at U26 and U27.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W16 and W17 - Hitachi CPU select&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Hitachi6802.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A Hitachi processor, installed at U15, with W16 cut (lower right of pic)]]&lt;br /&gt;
The W16 jumper, on original System 11 boards, is in a different location and used for backwards compatibility with system 9 boards. There is no need to change it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 11A and later boards:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*W16 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U15, the CPU responsible for most game operation.&lt;br /&gt;
*W17 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U24, the CPU for the sound subsystem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These two jumpers are used to indicate the manufacturer of the 6802/6808 microprocessor since the clock circuit of Hitachi microprocessors is different from the clock circuit of other manufacturers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If U15 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W16. &lt;br /&gt;
If U24 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W17.&lt;br /&gt;
Otherwise, W16 and W17 should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Hitachi microprocessor can be used in System 9 and System 11 (nothing) MPU boards by simply lifting pin 38 out of the socket. Cutting the pin is not recommended since there may be need for that IC in another board. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W5/W6 and W18/W19 - RAM Type Select ONLY FOR SYSTEM 11B AND 11C&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C MPU boards provide the ability to use either a 6116 or a 6264 RAM at locations U25 and U23 (sound subsystem).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U25&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W5, remove W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W5, install W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U23 (sound subsystem)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W19, remove W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W19, install W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Removing both W5 and W6 from a System ll (nothing) MPU or from a System 11A MPU prevents the switch matrix circuitry from working correctly. One instance of this being done resulted in all switches reporting closure, counting backwards from 64 to 1 while in switch level test. Reference [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-switch-levels-all-active &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;this&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;] PinSide thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
====Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSClockandE.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|A scope trace of the 4Mhz crystal input at pin 39 of the microprocessor (blue), and &amp;quot;E&amp;quot;, the external clock at pin 37 of the microprocessor (amber)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Following is an ordered, disciplined process for reanimating a dead MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Inspect for Alkaline Corrosion. Abate all corrosion properly before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test for valid 5/12/-12VDC power to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify correct jumpers are installed (or not installed) for Hitachi 6802/8 processors. More info [[Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11_MPU_Jumpers|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
#Note and address any error messages displayed upon boot (if any).&lt;br /&gt;
#Validate the ROM images.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test socketed chips in a known working board or chip tester.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (4Mhz) clock signal to the 6802/8 processor at pin 39.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (1Mhz) external clock signal at pin 37 of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the reset circuitry is providing a valid &amp;quot;low and then high&amp;quot; reset signal at pin 40 of the 6802/8. Note that replacing the original reset circuitry with a modern reset generator will lengthen the time until the signal transitions to high. This is normal, and helps with debugging as the signal can be seen much easier.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to test for activity on the IRQ (pin 4), Address and Data pins of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to ensure that the following bus buffer chips are correctly mirroring the input signals to the output signals:&lt;br /&gt;
##System 9: U1, U2 and U3 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U23 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
##System 11: U11 and U13 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U16 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Leon&#039;s test ROM to ensure that each 6821 PIA is receiving the correct chip select and data to produce valid outputs at pins 2 through 17. More information regarding use of Leon&#039;s test ROM can be found [[Leon_Borre_Williams_System_9_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]] for System 9 and [[Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]] for System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Normal Game Boot Behavior====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Boot Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for System 9 is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the diagnostic display on the MPU. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will light during boot up, and continue to stay lit, as long as the game is on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Diagnostic7Segment.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 11(nothing) MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with a 7-segment display on the MPU is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the display. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; does not go away. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will continue to be displayed under normal boot conditions.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DiagnosticLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs as found on a System 11A, 11B, and 11C MPUs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with 3 LEDs instead of the 7-segment display on the MPU is for the &amp;quot;+5 VDC&amp;quot; LED to light first and stay on, then a split second later, the blanking LED will light and stay on. At the same time that the blanking LED lights, the diagnostic LED will begin to blink at a fairly rapid pace with a 50% duty cycle (equal durations of the LED being on then off). The blanking LED will continue to remain on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LEDDiagnosticsIn7SegmentGame.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs driven by game software expecting a 7-segment display as in High Speed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 11 MPU with 3 LEDs is installed in a game whose original board contained the 7-segment LED diagnostic display first introduced with the System 7 board set, the status of the 3 LEDs won&#039;t help much. The game software is attempting to display a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; (assuming your game boots correctly) on a 7-segment display. Since the board contains just the three LEDs, the MPU circuitry merely lights all three LEDs as shown in the picture at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====MPU Boot Error Codes====&lt;br /&gt;
MPUs used in System 9 and 11(nothing) games display a code on a 7-segment display if an error is detected during boot. MPUs used in System 11A, 11B, and 11C games use the Diagnostic LED to blink a &amp;quot;codes&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 9 MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U18 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6808 processor&#039;s ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Game ROM 2 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal stuck, coin door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or the U18 CMOS RAM faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;System failure. Occasionally, the following components can contribute to this problem: U21 (4MhZ crystal), components in the IRQ circuit, broken leads or failed C9 (22uF) in the reset section, or loosely seated ICs on the CPU board. Note that boot code &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; is the hardware default and characteristic of the CPU &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; signal not complying with the proper low-to-high spec at pin 40.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game is locked up, there may be a bad power supply.  The 5 volt logic supply is the first one to check.  Then, check the 12 volt supply, which is used to reset the CPU chip.  Test for both DC (correct voltages) and AC (too much ripple on the DC circuit).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11(nothing) Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 11(nothing) MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;These error codes assume that either High Speed, Grand Lizard, or Road Kings ROMs are installed since those were the only three games shipped with this version of the MPU board containing the 7-segment display. Later System 11 MPU boards replace the 7-segment display with 3 discrete LEDs that indicate 5V presence, diagnostics execution, and blanking status. While the System 11(nothing) MPU board works fine with other/later game ROMs, the 7-segment display with later game ROMs doesn&#039;t provide useful information other than some confidence that the software is running correctly. With later game ROMs installed and the MPU booting properly, the 7-segment display will appear to alternate rapidly between &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; (as fast as the &amp;quot;Diagnostics&amp;quot; LED would be flashing in a System 11A through 11C MPU board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U25 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6802 processors ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;, or the coin door is closed, or the memory protect circuit is faulty, or the CMOS RAM at U25 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;General system failure. Check the 5VDC power supply as well as the integrity of game ROM 2 at U26.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A zero displayed during Memory Chip Test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is NOT functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11A, 11B, 11C games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the number of blinks of the DIAGNOSTIC LED, the error message that might be displayed, and the explanation (Source: Williams System 11A game manual. with embellishment).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating an MPU indicating a U10 failure (8 blinks) can be found [https://youtu.be/Rhho5nO3YLU &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Message&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;no message || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U25 RAM FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;The RAM at U25 could not be used properly. This means that the RAM failed a read/write test at power up.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;The game will remain in the current state and no other tests are performed until the game is turned off, then back on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;MEM. PROT. FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;This message means that either:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;a) the Coin Door may be shut,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;b) the Memory Protect Switch may be stuck in the ON position,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;c) the memory protect logic is protecting the memory, or&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;d) a U25 RAM failure is occurring.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U51 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U51 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U38 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U38 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U41 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U41 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U42 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U42 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U54 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U54 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U10 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U10 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;IRQ FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The interrupt request line is not working normally. It may be missing, stuck, too fast, or too slow.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 failed checksum (test 11 is skipped).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 failed checksum.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of the above failures (except #9) may mean that the device has failed but it may also mean that the 6802 microprocessor is unable to communicate adequately or properly with the device. For example, if the CPU is attempting to checksum the game ROM at U27, but one of the 8 data lines leading to U27 has been severed, the wrong data will be received by the microprocessor and the checksum test will fail even though the ROM is perfectly fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An U25 RAM failure can occur without actual 6116 RAM failure.  One of the most common reasons why U25 RAM failure occurs is lack of power to the RAM chip.  If the D1, 1N5817, diode shorts open, logic power will no longer have a pathway to the U25 RAM.  However, if the D2, 1N4148, blocking diode is fine, and the battery holder and batteries are fine, power will be retained by the U25 RAM.  Although, the batteries will die prematurely if D1 has shorted.  Another reason why U25 is no longer powered by the +5VDC logic power is due to a severed trace either caused by a blunt object or battery corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An interesting side effect to the U25 RAM failure blink code is that the blanking LED will blink 10 times after the single blink from the diagnostic LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== U51, U27, and possibly other boot message causes =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SocketWornOut.jpg|300px|thumb|left|This OEM System 11 MPU socket is tired, worn out, and no longer provided solid contact with the ROM chip legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 MPUs booting with error codes, blinks, or messages on the display may need new sockets for the game ROM(s). In the picture at left, it&#039;s easy to see light right through the socket holes (note the brown background vs the white background). The metal female connections have fatigued over time and are no longer providing a solid mechanical connection to the ROM chip legs. Removal and replacement with a quality dual wipe or machine pin socket is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This situation can cause a wide variety of boot problems including complete failure to boot, &amp;quot;U27 ROM failure&amp;quot; message, &amp;quot;U51 failure&amp;quot; message, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, the root cause could be due to many other reasons. The fairly complicated chip select logic outlined on sheet 4 of the System 11 MPU schematics could be the cause. The best way to attack the problem is with a logic probe, ensuring that the various chip select gates are yielding the intended logic states.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Five &amp;quot;Knocks&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes when turning a system 11 game on, the knocker will fire 5 times, causing most folks to wonder, &amp;quot;what the hey&amp;quot;?. All that knocking is designed to call the operators attention to a potential switch issue. Like the &amp;quot;credit dot&amp;quot; in later Williams games, including System 11 games that support the dot character, these 5 knocks mean that the game hasn&#039;t detected the closure of a particular switch (or switches) in a certain number of games. A message will be displayed indicating which switch or switches to examine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Usually, this is an indication of a failed switch. Most switches get closed during the normal course of game play, long before the game&#039;s software counts up to the limit of &amp;quot;games played without closing each switch&amp;quot; and issues this indication. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this issue, use the coin door diagnostic panel buttons to enter switch edge test. Manually close the switch. If a switch closure is indicated, either normal game play failed to close the switch (you&#039;re not a very good player), or the switch is dirty. Closing a switch with your finger is different than closing a switch with a ball. Your finger generally pushes more firmly on the switch contacts. Clean the switch by dragging an old business card or piece of paper between the switch contacts while pinching the switch blades together with your fingers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Caution: do not attempt to adjust switches with anything metal while the game is turned on. You will eventually short coil or lamp power to the switch matrix, damaging the MPUs switch matrix circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If closing the switch manually doesn&#039;t register in switch edge test, see the &amp;quot;switch problems&amp;quot; section of this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AdjustFailureMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door closed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message seen in the picture at left occurs when the game software can&#039;t make sense of the information contained in the battery backed RAM at U25. This could be because the RAM has failed, but this is unlikely. The vastly more common reason is that battery backup power has been interrupted to the games battery backed RAM because either the batteries are not installed, dead, or dying. Hopefully, they haven&#039;t made a mess of the board by leaking alkaline. See below. &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; is displayed under these conditions when the coin door is closed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that on some games (not certain if all) which use two 16-digit alpha-numeric displays, the message displayed will actually read &amp;quot;AJSTMENT FAILURE&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FactorySettingMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door open.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the coin door is open under these conditions, the message &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; is displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Testing for Battery Backup Power at the RAM =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U25_Ram_Test.jpg|300px|thumb|right|System 11: Game off. Meter set to DC volts. Black lead on game ground. Red lead on RAM pin 24.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing for power at the RAM chip is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The CMOS RAM chip is located at U18 for System 9 and U25 for System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Set DMM to DC volts (or on less than 20V if not using an auto-ranging meter)&lt;br /&gt;
#Game off&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead on backbox ground&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on pin 24 of the RAM as shown at right&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three AA batteries normally provide 4.5VDC. If you are reading some voltage, but not quite 4.5VDC, the batteries need to be replaced...and don&#039;t forget to move them off of the MPU board while you are at it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other causes for low or no battery backup power to the RAM chip are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode at D3 for System 9 or D2 for System 11 - This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC source from &amp;quot;charging&amp;quot; the alkaline batteries. This diode is a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode at D2 for System 9 or D1 for System 11 - This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC battery backup power from powering parts of the board other than the RAM chip. In this case, the batteries will deplete rapidly. This diode is a 1N5817.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 9 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U41, U9, the game ROMs, and one or more 6821s.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 11 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U11, U31, U34, U35, U36, U44, the game ROMs, and possibly the 6821s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating the repair of a System 9 MPU that was damaged in this way can be found [https://youtu.be/uoYKRJFnm-I &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:PinSideLogo.png]] An excellent disciplined approach to repairing a System 11 MPU damaged in this way can be found on PinSide [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-fried-my-system-11-cpu-board-now-what#post-7564730 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 9 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Yikes! What a pity...]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3 AA batteries used to retain settings across power cycles to a location far away from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; in the credit/match display is seen when the game is turned on, the game is in audit mode versus attract mode.  Below are several reasons why the game has defaulted to audit mode.&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing.&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the U18 (5517-2) RAM. Check pin 24 of U18 for approximately 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v with the power off.  Lack of battery backup power could also be due to an open D3 (1N4148) blocking diode.  This diode is used to keep the CPU&#039;s logic power from charging the batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking diode D2 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There are other problems, such as a faulty 5517-2 RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries will not allow a game to boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on.  It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores.  However, a System 9 game will boot, and is still playable with the lack of batteries.  To complete the boot sequence into attract mode, open the coin door, switch the game off, and then quickly back on. The game should leave audit mode, and go into attract mode.  Credits would need to be added from the coin door, and if necessary, settings would need to be changed before starting a game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea.  You can easily remove the battery pack from the board.  Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement.  If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position.  Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead.  This will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D3 on the MPU board fails.  Keep in mind that adding a secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory by .5 to .7 volts (the typical voltage drop across a diode) if D3 is still good.  Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 remote bat.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 9 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board.  All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; are somewhat common.  Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save you some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 D2 D3.JPG|300px|thumb|left|D2 and D3 Diodes Highlighted on a Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D3 blocking diode.  An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective.  Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack.  This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on.  Alkaline batteries do not like being charged.  They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly).  In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged.  Testing the D3 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out.  When in doubt, replace the D3 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack.  Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5517-2 RAM memory, if D3 is still good.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 11 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RemoteBatteryHolderSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A remote battery holder installed on a System 11 MPU. The purple wire is positive.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Installing NVRAM instead of batteries ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM DIP.JPG|300px|thumb|left|RAMTRON DIP NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Cyclone)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM SMT Adapter.JPG|300px|thumb|right|SMT adapted NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Transporter The Rescue)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like most other pinball mpu boards, the battery-backed RAM can be replaced with a non-volatile memory RAM (NVRAM).  Replacement RAM that can replace existing 6116 or a 6264 SRAM will be needed.  DIP versions are becoming scarce, but there are other solutions available that use surface mount equivalents on a small circuit board that plug into the RAM&#039;s socket.  Unfortunately, U25 is soldered in on System 11 boards from the factory, and would need to be removed to replace with NVRAM.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If installing any version of 6264 NVRAM on an 11B or 11C board, jumper W5 (located just above U25) needs to be moved to jumper W6.  This jumper has a completely different purpose on 11 and 11A boards.  6116 NVRAM will have to be used with 11 and 11A boards, or else modification with wire wrap will be necessary.  If 6116 NVRAM is used on 11B or 11C boards, jumper W5 does not have to be chaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several vendors who sell surface mount NVRAM on an adapter board.  The adapter in the picture shown on the right was purchased from [http://www.pinitech.com/products/cat_memory.php Pinitech].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
It has been documented that some variants of DIP NVRAM may need to have diode D1 replaced with a jumper or jumped around the diode, in order for the game to boot successfully.  D1, a 1n5817 diode, has a very low forward voltage drop (about 0.2 volts) vs. the normal 0.4-0.6 volts most other diodes have.  If replacing U25 with the memory RAM, some memory RAM will not unlock and allow writes until the voltage is 4.8 volts or so.  The 1n5817 D1 diode is just enough to prevent some memory RAMs from allowing writes.  To solve this, solder a jumper wire around the D1 terminals, or remove D1 entirely and replace with a jumper.  Surface mounted NVRAM on an adapter board is not susceptible to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing a Memory Capacitor Instead of Batteries====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11B Mem Cap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Memory Capacitor Added to a System 11B MPU Board.  The circled areas show an added jumper for the cap&#039;s negative terminal to ground and a jumper added in place of the blocking diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SuperCapInstalled.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method of adding a SuperCap. This style cap has two leads on the bottom of the cap. The negative lead of the cap is connected to battery ground via the red jumper wire. The necessary jumper across D2 is circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor. In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is greatly reduced compared to a rechargeable battery. When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor. When the game is turned off (this is where the memory cap slightly differs than a rechargeable battery) the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time. Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again. If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a memory cap, two things will have to be done. It will be necessary to add a jumper to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground or positive lead to the non-banded side of the blocking diode. The picture to the left shows a jumper added to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 11B MPU board. Installation on System 11, 11A, and 11C boards is similarly performed.  Secondly, the 1N4148 blocking diode (D2) will have to be removed, and replaced by current limiting resistor.  A value from 100 ohms to 270 ohms will work.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, it is a good idea to leave the game on for 15-20 minutes to allow the game to initially charge the capacitor to full capacity. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes to allow the cap to recharge is a good idea.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Both photos show a jumper installed in place of the blocking diode.  It is recommended that a limiting resistor be installed instead.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:  It has been determined that memory capacitors are not the most effective way to retain memory on System 11 games, if the game will not be turned on for long lengths of time.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MPUDelicateTraces.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of the delicate traces under the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. Luckily, these cleaned up nicely.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CorrosionCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Closeup of traces under the battery holder. Corrosion (darkened spots) has invaded beneath the solder mask (green coating) and is beginning to eat away at the copper traces.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen at left, the traces on System 11 MPUs are very small. Not much alkaline damage is required to eat completely through these delicate traces. Unfortunately, there are a great many of these traces under the battery holder, and in a very vulnerable position to alkaline damage. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to the left of the battery holder is the reset section of the MPU. That section is, on balance, much easier to repair than the delicate traces under the battery holder and at the 6821 PIAs immediately under the battery holder.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The advice often dispensed to deal with alkaline corrosion is to scrub the affected area with an acid such as vinegar, rinse with water, and then rinse again with isopropyl alcohol. This might work for light surface alkaline corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, often the alkaline will eat into traces beneath the solder mask or beneath chips. This dictates desoldering affected chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces. The alkaline interacts chemically with the solder making it very difficult to heat. Desoldering from the (presumably undamaged) back side of the board is much easier. Scuffing the alkaline damaged solder with a wire brush to remove the surface layer of damage is also helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once all damaged components have been removed, sand the affected area carefully with your choice of fine grit sandpaper. 220 grit works well. The objective is to remove the corrosion completely without destroying additional traces. All corroded areas must be addressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, rebuild traces as necessary. Corrosion tends to sever traces where the trace meets the solder pad of a part. Strong magnification and bright lighting helps. Either tin or conformal coat the bare copper and then reinstall parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11AlkalineDamage-1-Annotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Another closeup of the delicate traces near the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. These traces are too far gone for a repair to be considered reliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingSRCPartsSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A 9 pin, 4.7K bussed resistor network replacing SRC5. Pin 1 is on the right]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AlkalineCorrosion.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of alkaline damage that has crept under the solder mask (the darker traces). Eventually, this corrosion will eat completely through the trace, making the board unreliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TypicalSRC.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The OEM resistor/capacitor network.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the top of the board are a few &amp;quot;SRC&amp;quot; parts. These are 10 pin resistor/capacitor SIPs. The OEM part connects each driver line to a 4.7Kohm pull-up resistor connected to 5VDC. This guarantees that the signal is held at logic high until the PIA grounds the signal. The OEM part also connects each driver line to a high frequency noise filter capacitor (470pf). These parts are no longer available. A completely acceptable substitute is a 9 pin bussed, 8 resistor network (4.7Kohms) at positions SRC1 - SRC5 and SRC7 - SRC9. This part provides the pull-up resistor. In practice, the high frequency filter capacitor does not impact the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The part is installed as shown in the picture at right, with pin 1 of the part connected to the right side which is labeled pin 1 in the board silkscreen. A 10 pin (9 bussed resistors) part may be used ONLY if the left most pin is clipped and not connected to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An image of the original OEM part is shown at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another example of alkaline corrosion can be seen in the picture on the left. This damage can be cleaned up, retinned, and the board placed back in service.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blanking Signal Stuck Low or Pulsing====&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking signal is a failsafe interlock with critical game functions including the display, sounds, lamp matrix, and solenoids. It prevents operation of each of these game features to protect the game circuitry in the event of a system failure. For instance, if the MPU is not running, and the lamp matrix is stuck on at a particular row or column, those parts will heat up quickly, and at the very least damage that circuitry. Coils remaining locked on could cause even larger damage to the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the game functions listed above require the blanking signal to be high (&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not pulsing but always high&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;) to operate. As an example, the solenoid driver circuitry logically &amp;quot;ands&amp;quot; the blanking signal with solenoid commands using a 7408 AND gates (at U17, U18, U19 and U20).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of blanking, with the blanking LED never lighting, means that the game program is not running. It either never started running, locked up due to an invalid ROM image or a problem with the data, address, control, or chip select signals on the MPU, or detected a problem with the RAM memory.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Blanking.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|C58, a timing element for the 555 timer. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In rare cases, C58 can fail. C58 holds the input to the 555 timer high between pulses from the display circuitry. This causes the blanking signal to pulse. A pulsing blanking signal can manifest in missing digits on the display, some lamp columns not being turned on, and possibly other issues. C58 is a 1uf tantalum capacitor. If the blanking signal is pulsing, replace C58.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Blanking.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 CPU Blanking Circuit. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will update the displays by sending data to the display 6821 PIA at U51 at regular intervals (every 2.8 msec).&lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 to pulse high periodically. The DE schematics call this signal &amp;quot;TG&amp;quot;. It is merely called &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; in WMS schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at U36, in at pin 13, out at pin 12.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C57 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q50 and to pin 2 of the 555 timer at 1C.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 555 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at U51, the output of the 555 timer at pin 3 (and 7) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the longer, more detailed explanation, [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb75.pdf Stern service bulletin 75] provides the &amp;quot;Blanking Circuit Theory of Operation&amp;quot; for Data East MPUs which are identical to Williams MPUs with respect to the blanking circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When operating properly, the pins of the 555 timer will behave as follows (pin number, logic signal)&lt;br /&gt;
#low&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing at the same rate as the 6821 PIA at U51, pin 4&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing very rapidly. i.e. &amp;quot;ticking&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair Leon&#039;s System 11 test ROM] runs correctly on an MPU, this guarantees that all data, address, and control signals are working correctly. If blanking doesn&#039;t go high with a game ROM installed, ensure that the ROM images are valid. This is by far the most probable once Leon&#039;s ROM runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (System 9)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetGenerator.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 9 MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9ResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator on a System 9 MPU.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The three electrolytic caps (all 100uf/25V), two inductors, and 5 ceramic caps (all .001uf labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;) are part of the 5, 12, and -12 volt power filtering circuitry. The D2, 1N5817 diode isn&#039;t needed if an NVRAM is used instead of a SuperCap or remote batteries.  However, a jumper must be installed at D2 to power the NVRAM.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset section of the System 9 MPU is almost identical to the System 11 reset section. As such, a modification similar to the mod outlined below can be performed on System 9 boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
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#Remove resistors R6, R8, and R12. Really, all but R6 can simply be clipped off. One through hole at R6 will be used later.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove transistor Q4&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a reset generator (MCP120-460GI/TO) where Q4 was removed. Orient the reset generator the same way that Q4 was oriented, matching the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper from the upper leg of where R6 was removed (oriented as shown in the picture, upside-down from game installation) to the via that is about 1/4&amp;quot; southeast of the R6 connection.&lt;br /&gt;
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That&#039;s it. Most of the rest of the reset circuit can be removed, but this provides no advantage since those parts are already &amp;quot;out of circuit&amp;quot; with this modification.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary to power the sound amplifier on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System9ResetMinimum.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Another image of the bare minimum part requirement when using a modern reset generator. The three electrolytic caps are all 100uf/25V. Note that the right most electrolytic cap is oriented backwards from the other two. The 5 ceramic caps are all .001uf and are labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;. These are sometimes called 1000pf ceramic caps.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MCP130 reset generator variant, with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used too, but it isn&#039;t necessary. This is because the resistor at R170 provides an external 4.7K ohm pull up for the /RESET line. &lt;br /&gt;
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Note that the reset generator has a longer reset delay than the OEM circuitry. At boot, the 7 segment LED will seem to show a &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; for a fraction of a second. It will turn to a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and remain &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; after that, assuming that the board is booting properly.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System9Inductor1.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumpers&amp;quot; where inductors are normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor2.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; where an inductor is normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some System 9 MPUs shipped from the factory with zero ohm jumpers installed instead of inductors (see images left and right). When repairing alkaline corrosion, it&#039;s completely acceptable to replaced damaged inductors with jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
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====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (All versions of System 11)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Section.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 11A MPU board.  Components to be removed are circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Gen.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Reset section with reset generator and jumper installed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on all versions of the System 11 MPU boards. A reset generator can be installed. Since the reset section of all versions of the System 11 MPU board is susceptible to battery damage, this is a very easy, and minimalistic way to rebuild the reset section. To do so, 4 components will need to be removed and a jumper installed. The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
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#Remove the Q39 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from top to bottom as installed on the board) R58, R60 (these two are just below the Q39 transistor), and R69.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO (also used on Data East MPUs) where Q39 was. Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q39 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install in the bottom through hole). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the right pad of R58 and the right pad of R60 (both resistors have been removed).&lt;br /&gt;
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This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary for the sound section of the MPU on most boards, except the 11B and 11C variants.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired. Please consult the System 11 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics.  The MCP130 variant with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used, but it is not necessary.  This is because resistor network SR19 pin 3 is an external 4.7K ohm resistor used to pull up the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
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Below is a prime example of where a reset generator is very handy.  The amount of components replaced are reduced from 15-20 to 1.  Note that because this was an 11B board (also true for 11C boards), there is no sound amplifier on the board.  Hence, the +12v is not needed at all, and none of the parts related to the +12v were repopulated.  If this were an 11(nothing) or an 11A board, the +12V inductor (can be replaced by a simple jumper), the W10/W11 jumper, and associated capacitors (C27, C28, and C29) would need to be populated.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=330px heights=210px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;A Prime Candidate for Using a Reset Generator (11B MPU Board Shown)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot.JPG|Battery alkali leeched into the reset section.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot WIP.JPG|Components removed, affected traces and pads cleaned and treated.&lt;br /&gt;
File:S11ResetSectionAnnotated.png|Components repopulated. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System11MinumunResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Another image showing &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;the single jumper (string tied to it) and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator (System 11B/11C). System 11 (nothing) and System 11A must retain a few more parts.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the above gallery pics, note that some components in the reset area had to be reinstalled.  These components are in the area of the reset section, but are not part of the reset circuitry. They are actually related to the game RAM, enabling CMOS power to reach the RAM and to control pin 18, the chip enable pin of the RAM. Without these parts, the MPU will not successfully boot.  Instead, there will be a &#039;&#039;&#039;single blink code&#039;&#039;&#039; from the diagnostic LED indicating a U25 RAM error (a &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; will display on boards with the 7-segment display).  If the game display is connected to the MPU board, a &amp;quot;U25 RAM ERROR&amp;quot; message will be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
*D1 - 1N5817 diode &lt;br /&gt;
*Q40 - 2N3904 transistor (a 2N4401 was used in this case)&lt;br /&gt;
*R64 - 1 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R65 - 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R68 - 4.7 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And, once again, for a System 11 (nothing) or a System 11A MPU, both of which have onboard amplifiers in the upper left corner and require 12VDC power, be sure to retain or replace the following parts:&lt;br /&gt;
*L2 - 4.7uH inductor (or a simple jumper)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C28 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 100uf/25V electrolytic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
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====Connecting a logic probe to the MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Logic Probe connected to System 9 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Logic Probe connected to System 11 (11A) MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Of course, +5v and ground can always be acquired at any one of the bypass capacitors, which are located at most every chip, and simply labeled as &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
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==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS Sys9 comp PSU.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 9 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 comp PSU.JPG|300px|right|thumb|System 11 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 1J17 power connection is essentially the same for System 9 and all variants of the System 11 MPU boards.  The ground connection can be attached to pins 1 through 3.  The +5vdc connection can be connected to pins 4 through 6.  -12vdc gets connected to pin 8 and +12vdc gets connected to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 games are far more tolerant of low line conditions vs. the newer WPC games.  Some things to check if the game is resetting are the usual culprits for this type of thing:  connectors, filter capacitors, slam switches, bad chip sockets, etc.  It is good preventative maintenance to replace the +5 volt filter capacitor on the power supply with a new one; most of these are 25+ years old and might be getting to the point of wearing out.  Certainly replace them if you are getting resetting on your system 11 game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Most system 11 games give an indication that they&#039;ve been slam tilted; if you&#039;re getting a &amp;quot;game reset&amp;quot; but you get a noise and/or a message on the displays beforehand, it is probably a slam switch issue vs. a true reset issue.  Check all the slam switches in the game (usually the coin door is the main one, and also the ball roll tilt if present).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
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====A/C solenoid/flasher problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AuxDriverBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board, showing the A/C select relay, the clear &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; at the top, center of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is a dual &amp;quot;make/break&amp;quot; (DPDT, double pole, double throw) relay that supplies power to either the &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; or the &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. It is located on the Auxiliary Power/Driver Board for games that use the board which was introduced with Big Guns and used on all subsequent games. For games prior to Big Guns, like F-14 Tomcat, the relay is probably located under the playfield. There are exceptions. High Speed and Grand Lizard do not use an A/C select relay. Road Kings uses one for a handful of solenoids, but this game did not follow the 1-8 solenoid convention which games after it adopted.&lt;br /&gt;
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There are a couple ways that the A-Side / C-Side (A/C after this) relay circuit can fail. If the driving transistor (Q8 for Big Guns and later, Q7 for games prior to Big Guns, and located on the MPU board) shorts, the A/C select relay will be constantly energized, resulting in flashers firing when coils should have fired. If the driving transistor never switches the A/C select relay on, coils will fire when flashers should have fired.  &lt;br /&gt;
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Testing this behavior is easy. Use the diagnostic buttons to select solenoid test, and watch carefully to see what fires. The display will show the coil/flasher under test. The first 8 drive circuits tested will have an &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. That is, circuits will fire in the following order: 1A, 1C, 2A, 2C, ... 8A, 8C. If the A/C select circuit is not working correctly, the same coil or flasher will fire twice in a row, once for the A side and once for the C side.&lt;br /&gt;
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The A/C select relay is generally solenoid 12 in coil test. Placing the &amp;quot;Auto Advance&amp;quot; button in the up position, to repeatedly test solenoid 12, should allow you to hear the A/C relay clicking on and off.&lt;br /&gt;
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If all of &amp;quot;one side&amp;quot; of the A/C select circuit is not working, the fuse supplying the voltage to that side may be blown. F2 (DC side of BR1) and F8 (AC side of BR1) fuse the 25V circuit. F4 (DC side of BR2) and F7 (AC side of BR2) fuse the 50V circuit. Another suspect is fractured solder joints on the A/C select relay. Reflowing these solder joints is simple. The A/C select relay is relatively heavy and it&#039;s weight puts stress on the solder connection at the printed circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System11A-CRelay-OKOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing normal, working switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is rare for the A/C relay itself to fail. A possible source of trouble are the miniature contacts on the relay wipers. These are high power, high current, contacts that can be filed with a small point file to restore proper current carrying capacity.  Under no circumstances should you ever use contact cleaner on these contacts, as this could cause a spark or fire to occur. Be careful to not mangle the contact wipers in an attempt to adjust them. Adjust with care. 99% of the time, these switch contacts need no maintenance at all.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System11A-CRelay-WeldedOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a disassembled A/C select relay with both the A Side and the C Side connected at the center contact pads. It&#039;s rare for one of these relays to &amp;quot;weld&amp;quot; itself to both sides. In this particular instance, the game would fire both the A-side coil and the C-side flasher at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
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Other failure points are the connectors and headers connecting the aux driver board to the main cpu/driver board. Fractured solder joints can affect the proper operation of the relay. It is good practice to replace, or at minimum, reflow the header pins, and to replace connector pins in their housings with new pins. System 11 games use .156 connectors in most locations.&lt;br /&gt;
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And finally, the solder joints holding the A/C select relay to the board may fracture and cause loss of connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
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On a related note, if the flashers never illuminate during game or test, but the A/C relay physically engages, likewise the flasher lamps are good, and power is present at the lamps, suspect potential failure of the U1 (4N25) U1 optocoupler on the interconnect board.  Starting with Jokerz, the U1 optocoupler on the D-12313 interconnect board was used to identify whether or not the A/C relay has engaged.  Under normal operation, if the A/C relay has engaged, the voltage on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; side passes back to the optocoupler.  In turn, there is a switch on the switch matrix, typically switch 2, which receives the signal from the U1 optocoupler.  Note that U1 is on some previous games like Taxi, but it was not used.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Special solenoid problems with RottenDog MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPUDIPSwitches.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left| RottenDog MPU with a red switch bank for selecting either Williams or Data East special solenoid implementation.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDMPU004DIPSwitches.jpg ‎‎|300px|thumb|right| These DIP switches on this RottenDog are configured for a Williams game, even though they do not seem to match the PCB silkscreen.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU board can accommodate both Williams and Data East special solenoid implementations. This is accomplished with an 8 DIP switch bank, pictured at left. If set to the wrong game system, special solenoids will not operate properly in your game. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The DIP switch positions should be set the opposite of what you might think, based on the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Special solenoid problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpecialSolenoidCircuit.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A typical special solenoid circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Special solenoids on system 11 games are similar to the earlier variants used on all previous Williams&#039; board sets.  During gameplay/test modes the primary switches on the special solenoids (usually the pops and slings) are active, allowing actuation of those switches to fire the solenoids.  This is done by grounding an input to a 7402 logic chip which in turn pre-drives a 2n4401 pre-driver transistor which drives a TIP122 Darlington transistor to fire the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
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During solenoid test mode only, the secondary path to the 7402 is utilized instead to fire the solenoids.  Since there are 2 paths to fire the solenoids, it is possible for a special solenoid to work in game/test mode, but fail the solenoid test due to a failed PIA or 7402 chip, and vice-versa.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the primary switch associated with the special solenoid device. Therefore, System 9 special solenoids are not activated during solenoid test.&lt;br /&gt;
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If a special solenoid actuation switch locks on, the solenoid itself will lock on as well, (hopefully) blowing the associated fuse before blowing all or some of the TIP122/2N4401/7402 circuit.  An inline fuse holder can be added to all special solenoids with a 1 amp fuse installed to help prevent this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
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There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
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Most system 11B games do not use the special solenoids in the same way. Special solenoid switches were added to the switch matrix instead, keeping all or some of the solenoid pulses under CPU control. It is easy to identify whether a game has CPU controlled special solenoids by inspecting the activation switches on the special solenoids. If there are both a primary and a secondary switch installed, the game operates via the direct-fire special solenoid setup.  (Note that a secondary switch in the case of slingshots does not mean the normal 2nd switch all slings shots employ. Rather, it refers to a switch that only activates when the sling activates. It is installed near the pivot point of the sling arm underneath the playfield.) Also the secondary switches go to CPU connector J18. If nothing is connected to J18, then the special solenoids are CPU controlled. In games like BK2K only the kickers are CPU controlled while the pop bumpers still use the secondary switches.    There was no rhyme or reason (no definitive start / stop point) which System 11B titles used special solenoid secondary switches, and which did not. Please refer to the game list [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11B above] to determine which did / did not use the secondary switches. &lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) that &amp;quot;protect&amp;quot; the board logic from shorts between the sense switches and coil power. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The usual cause of special solenoid circuit failure is a stuck switch that locks the associated solenoid on, causing the TIP-122 transistor to fail and the coil to get so hot that the winding insulation melts (causing a reduction of coil resistance, eventually approaching zero ohms). The zener diode (pictured, left) in the circuit may fail shorted as well. This will cause the associated coil to lock on even after repair of the other damaged circuitry since the zener is connected directly to ground. The shorted zener diode causes the 7402/2N4401/TIP122 circuit to react identically to a switch closure. Gack!&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;If your game doesn&#039;t use the special solenoid switch inputs as in most System 11B games and all System 11C games (i.e. no connection at 1J18), then these zeners serve no purpose and may be clipped off. &lt;br /&gt;
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====Unusual Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlwindPinchedWire.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A pinched wire (white/brown) that causes a tough to find solenoid problem.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 method of securing boards sometimes causes odd problems. The securing screws must be removed completely to remove a board vs the improved WPC method of sliding the board off the screw head via a &amp;quot;keyhole&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
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When securing the boards, it&#039;s important to ensure that wires aren&#039;t pinched behind the board. If a wire is pinched severely enough, the insulation will be displaced and the conductor will contact the backbox ground plain, which can cause a wide range of odd problems.&lt;br /&gt;
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The wire in the picture shown at left happened to be the ground path for coil #1, the outhole kicker on Whirlwind. When the game was powered on, the coil would lock on until the blanking circuit became active. Pressing the diagnostic/audit coin door button would also result in the coil locking on. This was actually the A/C relay flipping to the coil side for diagnostics and providing power to the coils. The outhole coil had a path to ground via the pinched wire and would lock on. A game could be started and the coil appeared to work properly until &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;any&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the 1 through 8 coils were activated (when the A/C select relay would energize again). At that time, the outhole coil would fire at the same time as the other 1 through 8 coil.&lt;br /&gt;
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This one was a real head scratcher!&lt;br /&gt;
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===Flash Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps wired in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 flash lamps are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
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To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
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Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
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===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
This may seem painfully obvious, but with any lamp problem, where all lamps in the same circuit are not lighting, first see if the associated fuse is blown.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====General Illumination Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
As a rule of thumb, general illumination (GI) lamp issues with System 9 or 11 games are dependent on the era of the game.  The reason for this is GI circuits passed through different boards over the years.  And, the majority of GI issues are typically due to the circuit board.  Not so much the circuit board itself, but the junction between the header pin connections on the circuit board and the connector pins located in the female housings.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is extremely common for the header pins and / or the female connections related to the GI circuit to heat up, and in worse cases char or burn.  When some of these games were in operation earning money, they could potentially be turned on for 8, 12, or more hours every day.  If the connectors were compromised at some time in the game&#039;s life, the issues become compounded.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The problem is a vicious cycle.  If either side of the connector heats up, it creates more resistance.  If it creates more resistance, it draws more current.  If it draws more current, it heats up.  This cycle continues until the connector blows the circuit&#039;s fuse (provided the proper fuse is installed and not by-passed), the connectors are so bad that the circuit no longer has continuity, or the connectors are replaced with new ones.  It is recommended that both the male header pin connector be replaced and the associated pin connectors which connect to it.  Replacing only one side of the connector is only asking for repeat problems down the road.  Header pins rated for 7 amp are highly recommended as a replacement.  If the 7A headers are used, the likelihood of the connector failing due to heat is greatly reduced.  Likewise, the use of Molex Trifurcon connector pins are recommended.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another prevalent problem is the failure of the relay board or the relay board connectors. GI relay boards are typically found under the playfield and on the back of the lamp insert panel. The job of the relay board is to switch the GI lamps on/off for special lighting effects. Over many years of operation, the solder joints on the connector may fracture.  Although it is more common for the male/female connectors to burn badly. Repinning these connectors, as is typical for GI connectors, is the prescribed fix.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Space Shuttle to Fire!=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 GI Circuits.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Typical System 9/11 Power Supply with GI Drivetrain Notated]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During this time period, general illumination entered the power supply [1 / 2], was parsed, and exited the power supply as 4 separate circuits [4].  Although there were 4 discrete GI circuits with 4 separate fuses [5], all 4 circuits were turned on/off via one relay [3] located on the power supply.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the factory connection on the power supply for System 9 games differs than what is shown in the picture. Connections [1 / 2] do not exist on System 9 games, and only two wires are used to input the general illumination instead of four.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Big Guns to Swords of Fury=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone Interconnect.JPG|300px|left|thumb|The interconnect board from a Cyclone mounted to the left side of the backbox]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With all the games mentioned in this particular section, there were some design growing pains.  Williams was creating a preliminary interconnect board, however, it was very different from game to game at first.  Therefore, GI issues may occur at the power supply connections, the interconnect board connections, and / or at one of the discrete GI relay boards used.  Since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A shown at the pic on the left, the general illumination headers, connectors, and connector housings have been changed out due to fatigue / failure.  This is a common failure point on games such as Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Taxi to Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball=====&lt;br /&gt;
The games included during this era used a somewhat standardized interconnect board located below the CPU board.  The GI circuits coming directly from the transformer enter the board on the right side at connector J6.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  In actuality, the GI wires are only 4 wires, instead of 8 wires.  Once the upper 2 wires reach the board, each of them are daisy-chained through the insulation displacement connector (IDC).  Equally, the bottom 2 wires are connected in the same fashion.  This was presumedly done to reduce cost, and decrease the life expectancy of the connection as a whole.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect BK2K GI Marked.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Williams Interconnect Board with general illumination wire colors marked.  Interconnect board is from a Black Knight 2000]]&lt;br /&gt;
The most typical header connections that fail on the interconnect board are J6 (the GI input and return) and J7 (the GI output and return lines to the backbox insert).  The purpose of the picture to the left is to easily identify what GI circuits pass through what connections.  This will aid in attempting to check the continuity of your rework, whether only replacing just one of the header connectors or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the wiring color codes for J6 in the pic are not the incoming wire colors.  The wiring codes in the pic are illustrated this way to determine where the GI circuits disperse throughout the board.  The game&#039;s schematics in the manual include this information too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that discrete GI relay boards were still used during this time period.  Dependent on the game, there may be one to three discrete GI relay boards used.  Again, since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======Repairing the General Illumination Input Connector / Wiring======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Butterfly_GI.jpg|thumb|300px|left|General Illumination input connector with looped (butterfly) wiring]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11 Interconnect GI Connection.jpg|thumb|300px|right|One method for repairing the GI input connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
From the factory, only 4 wires total were connected to the GI power and return input connector, which is located on the right hand side of the interconnect board.  With only 4 discrete connections per wire from the transformer, 8 wires are needed to connect to the interconnect board.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  To increase 2 wire connections to 4 wire connections, the wires connect to the IDC connector via one connector pin, pass through that connector pin, and loop back to another connector pin.  In doing this, the life expectancy of the connector and the header pins on the interconnect board are reduced (too much current for these connections to maintain over their lifespan).  The end result is typically burnt connector pins, housings, headers, and in some cases, the interconnect board too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To resolve the burnt connection issue, the header pins on the interconnect board should be replaced with new ones.  Preferably 7A higher current rated header pins.  As for the harness side, the housing should be replaced too, and Molex Trifurcon crimp pins used within the housing.  To compensate for the extra wires needed, each of the input wires will need a &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot; junction soldered in place.  To do so, take a small piece of wire approximately 4&amp;quot; - 5&amp;quot; long.  In the middle of the small piece of wire, carefully strip the insulation, leaving about 1/4&amp;quot; of exposed wire.  Place a piece of heatshrink on the single incoming wire.  Then, bend the small piece of wire at its center where the insulation is stripped, until both ends leads are nearly parallel with one another.  Take the incoming wire, and solder it to the exposed wire in the center.  The end result will look like a rudimentary &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot;.  Pull the heatshrink over the junction, and that&#039;s it.  This needs to be done for the remaining 3 wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the wire modifications, you can also do a board modification. The J6 connector on the right side can be burned to a crisp. Often lifting pads under the printheader. To repair this you can add a jumper wire to the top 4 traces, connecting pin 1-2-3-4 together. This can also be done for the bottom 2 traces, connecting pin 6-8 together, but you are still missing pins 5 and 7 to be connected to 6 and 8. Turn the board over and solder a jumper over pins 5 thru 8. The same can be done for pins 1 thru 4. Now you have the best possible connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_1.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board with Modification&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_2.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (front)&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_3.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (back)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorLampMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing lamp matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistor.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The same broken SIP resistor after removal.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Sockets=====&lt;br /&gt;
Failed lamp sockets are not very common with System 9-11c games.  If a specific lamp will not illuminate, spinning the lamp socket canister or solder tab can resolve the issue in some cases.  One thing to keep in mind is that all controlled lamp sockets have a diode soldered to two of the lamp socket tabs.  Due to this, the legs of the diode can get pressed against other leads on the lamp socket resulting in an electrical short.  The end result may be a lamp which shines more brightly than other lamps in the same column or row, or a whole lamp column or row will illuminate dimly when they shouldn&#039;t be lit at all.  The resolution is to inspect all associated lamps in the column or row, and look for solder tabs or diode legs touching where they should not be.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Pinbot, Williams introduced lamp boards.  Lamp boards were used in areas where lamp inserts were positioned too closely together, and it did not make logical sense (or it was not physically possible) to use individual lamp sockets.  With subsequent games, lamp boards were used whenever lamp inserts were &amp;quot;nested&amp;quot; in groups.  This trend was presumedly done to save on assembly and production costs.  One benefit of lamp boards is that bulb replacemnt became easier in most cases.  A simple turn of the twist lamp socket (WMS # 24-8767), and the 555 bulb could be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Lamp Board.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early direct solder lamp board as seen on Pinbot - the large color matrix below the top and right colored targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generations of lamp boards had the lamp column and row wires soldered directly to the board.  On one hand, this is beneficial, because there is one less mechanical connection used in the lamp circuits.  On the other hand, it makes it more difficult to remove the lamp boards completely from the game to clean and / or service.  On the plus side, very little goes wrong with the direct wired lamp boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|300px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Two things that can fail are individual lamp circuit diodes or the solder pads can develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot;, where the twist sockets make physical contact with the board.  To overcome the divots, simply add a little solder, and carefully reflow the solder pads.  Make certain not to apply too much heat...just enough to evenly flow the solder.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Fire!, Williams started using lamp boards with .156&amp;quot; header connections for the lamp column and row lines.  This allowed for easy removal and service of the lamp boards.  However, it introduced some new problems.  Because the lamp boards used were single-sided, (this was presumably a cost analysis decision), the .156&amp;quot; header pins can develop cold solder joints and crack due to vibration.  The problem can easily be rectified by removing the old solder from the header pins, and applying fresh, new solder.  This style of lamp board is susceptible to the same issues (bad diodes and divots) as mentioned in the direct wired lamp boards section above.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Adjacent Columns or Rows Lighting Simultaneously =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsS11ShortedLampColumnDrives.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Column drive transistor tabs touching, shorted together. Here, lamp columns 3 and 4 would light at the same time.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A problem seen fairly often is the tabs of either column drives or row returns touching, and therefore shorted and causing more than one column (in the picture at left) or row to light at the same time. If you have this issue, it&#039;s easy to quickly examine the column drive and row return transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Lamp Matrix Row and Column Testing =====&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using a jumper wire.  The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the lamp matrix columns and rows.  The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_columns.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP42 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns.  Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it&#039;s function is to prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix.  In this test we are only connecting a single lamp at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J7.  There is no pin 5 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a column doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q66&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q64&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q62&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q60&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q58&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q56&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q54&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q52&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_rows.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP102/122 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J6.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a row doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test. The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q80&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q81&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q82&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q83&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Grn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q84&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q85&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q86&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q87&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using MOSFETs in the Lamp Matrix Circuitry=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Procedure by Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. Using modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06), the heat (and power consumption) can be reduced substantially.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETSchematic.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Typical &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation (left), &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation on right. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics shown at left compare the widely used &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation with the &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation that uses two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half. Doing so drives the MOSFET with a 9 VDC Vgs.&amp;lt;br  clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 9 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors and IRF9Z34N FETs installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q23-30&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR5&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 11 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R82-89&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR16&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11_mosfet.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A very clean alternate implementation with resistors on the component side. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider DumbAss&#039;&#039;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shown at left is a very clean installation of all parts on the component side of the board. Note that the 1K resistors are situated such that the &amp;quot;body&amp;quot; of the resistor passes between the MOSFETs instead of the legs, thereby eliminating the possibility of a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.  Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorSwitchMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing switch matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Row and Column Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the switch matrix can be tested by simulating switch closures using a jumper wire on both System 9 and System 11 (all revision levels) MPUs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem9SwitchMatrixTesting.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Testing the System 9 switch matrix, but jumpering from pins on 1J8 to pins on 1J10.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As seen at left, testing the switch matrix rows and columns on a System 9 MPU is identical to testing on a System 11 MPU except for which connectors to use. The switch columns on the System 9 MPU at 1J8 are numbered right to left. The switch rows at 1J10 are numbered left to right. 1J9 is available (sometimes not stuffed) for opto switch processing, although this feature may never been used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 switch matrix operates on 5VDC. The switch columns at 1J8 are &amp;quot;strobed&amp;quot; by being pulled to ground successively by the 6821 PIA. The switch columns are normally pulled high via a pull-up resistor. If the switch at the intersection of the column and row is closed, when the column is strobed, the row will be pulled low too. In this way, the processor knows which column it strobed, and which rows return that strobe.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the system 11 switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_col.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix columns.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J10 pin 9, the leftmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated.  The test may report the switch name, refer to the switch matrix table in the manual to correlate the name to the switch number.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J8 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to row 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J8.  There is no pin 6 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire Colors&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Switch number&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_row.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix rows.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J10 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J10 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to column 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J10.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Shorted or non-working switch column====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One or more failed switch columns can be caused by a failed column drive transistor (Q42 through Q49, all 2N4401s) or a failed 1K SIP resistor pack at SRC6.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The column drive transistor part was changed with the system 11B MPU. System 9 to 11A MPUs use 2N3904 transistors at location Q42 to Q49 with 1.5Kohm inline resistors (R71 through R78). These column drive transistors fail quite often as these MPUs age. These 2N3904 transistors can be replaced with 2N4401s. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When System 11B was introduced, the switch column drives were changed to 2N5550s with 470 ohm inline resistors. The more commonly found, and beefier 2N5551, is a good substitute for the 2N5550. Before replacing the transistor, be sure which kind the board uses. Some early system 11B MPUs were stuffed with 2N3904s despite the schematics indicating otherwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A broken SIP can also cause a switch column not to work. This usually happens with System 11 and 11A CPUs. With 11B WMS also changed the switch section layout and eliminated most of the SIPs. The likely candidates are SRC6 and SR11. In the case of SRC6, measure resistance between pin 1 and 2 to 9. If it&#039;s broken it&#039;s usually open after pin 3 or 4. This is a bussed 1K SIP with additional 470pfd capacitors connected to ground and practically NLA. Fortunately the caps are not needed because they are also mounted on the board so it can be replaced with a standard 9-8 1K SIP. Pin 10 which is the common ground for the caps is not used here. SR11 is a standard bussed 560 ohm 10-9 SIP. Here you measure resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 to 10. Be aware that two types of SIPs are used on the board: bussed and isolated. If you suspect a different SIP has failed check the schematics for the pin layout. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Brokensip.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A broken resistor SIP.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a broken resistor package similar to SRC6 but out of a System 11 master display. As can be seen, the part may look solid to the naked eye, but it&#039;s actually fractured.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ground Row Shorts====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11CrackedSR11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Note the fracture in the SIP at SR11. The fracture became apparent only after desoldering the part.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A possible cause for one or more ground row shorts (indicated by the game software on the score display during switch test) is a fractured resistor SIP at SR11 (a 560 ohm 10-pin bussed resistor network). SR11 is a pull-up resistor that is connected between each switch row return and 5VDC. If the return is not pulled up, that return will look like a low signal continuously, which the MPU interprets as a row ground short. Visual inspection of the SIP &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;might or might not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; identify the cause of the problem. A better test is to remove the switch row return connector (J10) and probe each pin with a logic probe. The logic probe should indicate &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; for every pin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Specific to the board pictured at left, a logic probe indicated that J10 pins 1, 2, and 3 were all high but the remaining pins had no signal at all. The fracture can easily be seen between pins 5 and 6 of the SIP (pin 4 isn&#039;t used) meaning that pins 6 through 10 were not connected to 5VDC and therefore not pulling the switch row return to logic high. Hence, the MPU declared a row ground short for rows 1 through 5.  Note that the actual fracture can rarely be seen prior to attempted removal of the resistor network from the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 4N25 Opto Couplers in the Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:4N25System11InterconnectBoard.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Three 4N25 Opto Couplers on a Williams System 11 Interconnect Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games that include an Interconnect Board may use 4N25 Opto Couplers to detect power being applied to the flippers or to detect 28VDC being applied to the A/C relay (as in Rollergames). Pre-Fliptronic WPC games that use the -1 power/driver board also use 4N25 Opto Couplers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These opto couplers are connected to the game switch matrix. Detecting these switches is most often used for lane change and for entering HSTD initials. If one of these functions no longer works, the 4N25 opto couplers should be considered suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, testing an opto coupler is simple using the diode test function provided by most DMMs. Set the DMM to diode test, compare results against those pictured below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Testing a 4N25 Opto Coupler&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Internal.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The internal schematic of the 4N25. Pins 1 and 2 connect to an internal diode (LED). Pins 4 thru 6 connect to a PNP photo transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test3.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the diode connected to pins 1 and 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test2.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 5, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test1.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 4, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switches Not Registering with a Rottendog MPU / Driver Board Installed====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_Before.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_After.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Modified Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the opto switches are not registering at all in a game, and a Rottendog MPU board is being used, suspect that it is an older style board.  This board can easily be upgraded though.  U2 will have to be switched from a 74HCT240 to a 74HC240 chip, and RA5 will have to be changed from a 9-pin 4.7K ohm bussed SIP resistor network to a 9-pin 560 ohm bussed SIP resistor network.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 9/11 High Voltage Section Repair&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don&#039;t continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.  &lt;br /&gt;
====High Voltage Issues With the Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Check Voltages=====&lt;br /&gt;
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working.    &lt;br /&gt;
On the Power Supply Board, use a DMM set to DC volts with the - lead grounded, probe the following connector &lt;br /&gt;
pins to determine if the HV section needs repair.  If the display fuse, F1 is blowing, &lt;br /&gt;
you should remove the applicable display connector (with power off) before testing the voltages. Note that these are &amp;quot;loaded&amp;quot; voltages. If you are testing on the bench, or without displays connected, your measurements may vary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-11883 or D-12246:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 1 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 3 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-8345-xxx:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 3 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 4 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the test points are more than about 5 volts out of spec, then your HV section may &lt;br /&gt;
be malfunctioning (if you or a previous owner replaced Z2/Z4 with 1N4763A diodes to purposely reduce the display voltage, test readings in the 90&#039;s range would be normal).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check the table below for a solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Troubleshooting table=====&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Symptom&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Cause&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacement&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 0V ON BOTH +100/-100 lines&lt;br /&gt;
| Check F1 &lt;br /&gt;
| 1/4 Amp SB&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D3&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR1, ZR2&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R1&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q4&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR3, ZR4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q3&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R4&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=4 | F1 1/4 Amp Fuse Blows&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Capacitor at C1 and C3&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Display&lt;br /&gt;
| Display Glass*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN7180&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN7180*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN6118&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN6118*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| +118V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| -118V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  colspan=3 | * located on display board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Displays Test With no Shorts&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Once the displays are tested and shorts are eliminated, we can proceed with the HV section repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacing the components in the HV Section&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Since there are not that many components, if you are having problems isolating the &lt;br /&gt;
fault, a quick solution is to replace all the components in &lt;br /&gt;
the HV section. If only one side (+ or -) is failing, it is possible to rebuild only the failing side.&lt;br /&gt;
Check the parts section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the replacement parts for one or both failing sides:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;-Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+,-Location&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340 (or MJE15030)&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350 (or MJE15031)&lt;br /&gt;
| Q1,Q3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
| Q2,Q4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| Z1,Z3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| Z2,Z4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| R1,R4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| R2,R5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| R3,R6&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| C2,C4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| C1,C3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| colspan=4 | **This is a 91V Zener to reduce the voltage to prolong display life&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSPartIdentification.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visual depiction of the parts in a System 11 high voltage section. Note that the legs of the MJE15030/MJE51031 are crossed as this power supply originally used OEM parts SDS-201 and SDS-202]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;strong&amp;gt;Remove and replace HV components&amp;lt;/strong&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Stuff board with new components.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Leave a little space under components for air flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Bend leads on components so they won&#039;t fall out when board is inverted for soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Solder the parts to the board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip excess off leads&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE340/MJE350 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE340/MJE350 is the heat-sinked transistor.  On most Williams boards, this transistor pin configuration is not the same as the original part.  It will need to be installed vertically with heat sink attached to the transistor only.  The transistor will sit at about a 45 degree angle so the legs can be lined up to fit in the correct holes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check your board and insure correct orientation before soldering in place.  Late versions of the System 11 series boards were designed to use the pin configuration of the MJE340/MJE350 transistors.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Do not mount vertically if the power supply is designed to use the pin configurations of the newer transistors!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MJEInstall.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE15030/MJE15031 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys11MJELegsCrossed.jpg|300px|left|thumb|High Voltage section with MJE15031 installed. Note the crossed legs on the left transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 PS Alt HV Transistor Pads.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Power supply with pads for both styles of HV transistors]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 are rated for higher power and can be used instead of the MJE340/MJE350 (the MJE340/MJE350 are well within design specifications and are suitable replacements at 1/3 the cost of the MJE15030/MJE15031). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 pin configuration has the Base and Emitter reversed as compared to the MJE340/MJE350. In the image at left, the left transistor (MJE15031) shows one method of crossing the legs safely. The transistor&#039;s two left legs are shifted right on position. The third leg is then jumpered to the boards left through hole position.  If you prefer not to cross legs, this transistor can also be mounted vertically, but this transistor would be facing the opposite direction as compared to the MJE340/MJE350 pictured above.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some power supplies which have pads for both the SDS-201/SDS-202 or the MJE15030/MJE15031 style of transistors.  In the pic to the right, the MJE15030/MJE15031 transistors are installed from the factory, but there are solder pads just below for installation of the SDS-201/SDS-202 transistors. If installing ME15030/MJE15031, the upper pads are used, and no leg crossing is required.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready to test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the rebuilt power supply, return to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Check Voltages&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; section of this guide.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9-11 HV section of the PSU is very similar in design to the earlier System 3-7.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Power_Supply_Issues|Sys 3-7 PSU Problems]] section entitled &#039;&#039;&#039;+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU&#039;&#039;&#039;, for more detail.  It also provides links to source complete HV rebuild kits which will normally cost under $10 shipped.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Panel Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segment Identification=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegmentLetters.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Alphanumeric and Numeric Segment Identification.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Will Not Light=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PlasmaBallTest.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Testing a high voltage plasma display with an inexpensive plasma ball]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If power to the display is correct, and the display was moved to a known working display panel position (if possible), it is possible that the display has outgassed. A plasma ball can be used to determine if a display glass is outgassed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A Youtube video demonstrating the use of an inexpensive plasma ball for this purpose can be found [https://youtube.com/shorts/GGftl3S_OWg?si=T5Cdzyovtar6_Han &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segments Light &amp;quot;In Sympathy&amp;quot; With Other Segments=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ShortedSegments.jpg|300px|left|thumb|In this image, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; light simultaneously, even though only one segment should be lit. The last two characters illustrate the issue clearly. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider Pinball50.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Internal shorts within a display glass can cause segments to light &amp;quot;in sympathy&amp;quot; with other segments. That is, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot;, for example, will both light, when only one of the segments &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;should&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be lit. Segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; is lit and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; is lit. This is caused by an internal short within the glass. The short can be confirmed by &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;removing the leads of the associated segments from the PCB&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; and measuring resistance between them. The resistance should be infinite, or open.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, there is no way to repair the glass and it should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Commas stuck on (Players 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4)=====&lt;br /&gt;
System 9: Check IC36 on the MPU (6821 PIA)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 16 = Players 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 17 = Players 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game in attract mode, check these pins with a logic probe. They should go low each time the displays turn off. if they stay high, the PIA is likely bad and will need to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Fuse F1 Blows=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the UDN Chips&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the display fuse is blowing, you should check the display board for shorts before connecting&lt;br /&gt;
a new or rebuilt power supply to the display board, as a shorted display or chip can damage a good power&lt;br /&gt;
supply.  Remove the display board from the system.  The display characters are driven by the two types &lt;br /&gt;
of UDN chips, the UDN7180 &amp;amp; UDN6118 (or UDN6184).  Locate these chips (there are several)&lt;br /&gt;
on the board and test them with your DMM set to diode check.  Clip your + (RED) &lt;br /&gt;
lead to the ground trace of the board.  Probe the UDN chips as shown in the diagram.  &lt;br /&gt;
If any shorts are read in the tested pins, the display should not be connected to the power &lt;br /&gt;
supply until the shorts are corrected.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pins labeled &#039;dont care&#039;), the UDN&lt;br /&gt;
chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board.  Take care to preserve this chip,&lt;br /&gt;
as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace.  Now install an IC socket in its place.&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat the test with no chip installed.  If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing Display Glass=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change1.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed with glass nipple in proper location]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change2.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Replacement glass installed after circuit board was drilled to allow for glass nipple in different location]]&lt;br /&gt;
All plasma displays have a finite life expectancy.  Display glass replacements were and are offered in several configurations.  The differences in these configurations are mainly the placement or lack of a display &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; on the back of the glass.  The glass nipple is what can pose as somewhat of a problem, when replacing a display glass.  Williams did place a rather large hole in the display circuit board.  However, the placement of the glass nipple has changed.  To overcome this issue, a hole can carefully be drilled through the circuit board to allow for the glass nipple.  When drilling, drill successive holes, starting with a small drill bit first, rather than drilling one large hole.  This will reduce the chances of the circuit board &amp;quot;splintering&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At one time, [http://www.pinballpcb.com/Displays.html pinballpcb.com] did offer replacement displays and / or just the replacement display circuit boards.  Neither of these products are available anymore.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit Repair.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Original display glass was secured to its circuit board with double-sided, high tack, foam tape.  If this cannot be acquired, a simple method to secure an existing or new display glass is to use silicone caulk or RTV caulk.  However, in following this method, the glass must be supported on the board until the caulk cures.  Wrapping the glass with rubber bands is a great way to do this.  Once the caulk is cured, just cut off the rubber bands.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Logic States of Display Output Signals for a Working MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
These logic states were recorded from a System 11A board. This board was running Swords of Fury code in display test mode manually paused with all characters / digits on &amp;quot;8&amp;quot;.  This is for games with a 4 x 7 display board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
L=LOW, H=HIGH, P=PULSE&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ3 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || H&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ2 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || None (Key) &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ1 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || L || 1 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || L || 3 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || L || 5 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || L || 7 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L || 9 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || L || 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 14 || L || 13 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 16 || L || 15 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 18 || L || 17 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 20 || P || 19 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 22 || P || 21 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 24 || P || 23 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 26 || P || 25 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jumper Settings for a newer System 9 Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board jumpers.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Jumpers Circled on a Comet System 9 Speech Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned above, the System 9 speech board is essentially the same as the System 6/7 speech board. However, the newer speech board has jumpers added to increase the flexibility of EPROMs used.  Either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs can be used.  If using 2532 EPROMs, install jumpers W2 and W4, and remove jumpers W1 and W3.  If using 2732 EPROMs, install jumpers W1 and W3, and remove jumpers W2 and W4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Sound or Speech Calls=====&lt;br /&gt;
To start a sound test, simply press the SW2 momentary switch at the bottom of the CPU board located between connections 1J16 and 1J17.  Once SW2 is pressed, the CPU will cycle through all of the sound / speech calls continuously.  Each System 9 game has a chart located in the manual, which lists the speech and sound calls made during test.  The benefit of the chart in the manual is that it lists the ROM where a particular call originates.  If a particular sound / speech call is not heard, the associated ROM listed for that call may be bad.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another result of speech calls missing is possibly a bad U2 or U3 on the speech board.  Both of these chips are 1458 op-amps.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Isolating the CPU Sound from the Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the sound / speech calls originate from the CPU board, while the remaining calls originate from the speech board.  If after running a game through sound test by pressing SW2, and some sounds are missing or very low in volume, a good idea is to isolate the CPU board from the speech board.  All of the sounds originated on the CPU board, leave the board via the 40 pin ribbon cable, and go to the speech board for mixing.  Once mixed, all of the sounds and speech are then returned to the CPU board, amplified, and sent out to the speakers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Much like the System 6/7 sound and speech boards, the sound can be isolated from the speech board for testing purposes.  The System 6/7 Type 2 sound board uses a jumper at position W1.  When jumper W1 is installed, the sound board can be diagnosed without the speech board installed.  The equivalent with the System 9 CPU board is jumper W10.  This jumper is typically not connected.  However, when it is connected, the sounds originating from the CPU board can be heard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Locate jumper W10 on the CPU board.  W10 is located to the right of SW2 on the board. There should be two very small wires clipped on either side of W10, as if W10 was installed and removed. Connect an alligator test lead across the short leads of W10.  If the short leads are not present, a short light gauge wire or wire wrap can be tack soldered to the solder pads of W10, or use a jumper wire to connect the lower legs of C32 and R76 which are just right of W10 (see pic, below).  With a jumper installed at W10, some sounds should be heard when SW2 is pressed. Sound test, via the coin door diagnostic button is likely to provide sounds for all but sound 7, which is a voice call. If no sounds are heard, further troubleshooting must be performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=350px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Adding W10 to a System 9 CPU Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumper.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Locating jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumped.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Temporarily jumpering W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System9JumperTemporary.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Alternate for jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games are known to &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; a bit. The &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; is caused by electromagnetic interference from the lamp matrix insinuating itself on the sound circuit. To minimize the interference, ensure all boards are screwed tightly to the backbox ground plain, with all screws installed.  This improves grounding and will help minimize &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another cause of hum could be an inconsistent +5DC volts from the power supply. An indicator of this being the cause of hum would be the game occasionally resetting as well.  Replacing caps C8 and C10 on the power supply may correct this issue.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the version of System 11 board, an 11C board or anything else (nothing, 11A, and 11B), sounds and music are handled with different specifics.  With the first 3 generations of MPU boards, the sounds originate from the MPU board and the background music originates from the sound board.  With the 11C board, both sounds and music are on the sound board, as the MPU no longer has a sound section populated on it. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume POT value=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 5K linear volume POT. Others shipped with a 10K linear volume POT. Both POT values work fine and either can be used to replace a failed volume POT.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 50 ohm resistor soldered to the volume POT. It is thought that this resistor was included so that the volume could never be turned to zero. For route games, at least some sound was thought to increase game earning potential. This resistor can be removed or jumpered around to enable turning the sound volume completely off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Boot Up Diagnostic Tones for the D-11297, D-11298, and D-11581 Sound Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11297, D-11298, and the D-11581 sound boards all provide diagnostic tones (&amp;quot;bongs&amp;quot;) at power on.  A single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; means that the sound board is operating properly.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of a bong indicates a problem with the sound board or it&#039;s connections. The possible causes for failure are numerous, including a failed amplifier, missing or incorrect connector placement, missing or noisy (AC ripple) power for a required voltage (-12VDC), failed speakers or the connection to the speakers, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is healthy enough to perform it&#039;s own self-diagnosis, it will attempt to indicate the problem by playing a specific number of bongs, as shown in the tables below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11297 &amp;amp; D-11298 Sound Boards&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U3 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11581 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U5 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Diagnostics Via the MPU Board for Games Prior to 11C=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the upper switch of the two switches on the side of the MPU board will test both the CVSD and DAC on the MPU board.  The first sound is typically sound ROM (on the MPU) specific, and it is a test of the CVSD chip.  The second sound is described as a  &amp;quot;twing&amp;quot;, and it is a test for the DAC.  If no sounds are heard, refer to the potential issues listed above in the previous section.  If one &amp;quot;ring&amp;quot; is heard, it denotes that the U23 RAM chip has failed.  Two or four rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U21 ROM.  Three or five rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U22 ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Connecting the Speaker and Volume Connections for a System 11 MPU Board on the Bench=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS Sys11 Speaker Volume Connection.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Speaker and Non-adjustable Volume Control Connected on a System 11 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the sound on a System 11 MPU on the bench, a speaker and volume control must be connected to connectors 1J15 and 1J16 respectively. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The speaker should connect to pins 2 and 3 of 1J15. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the adjacent pic, a 470Kohm resistor was used in lieu of a volume pot.  Other resistor values can be used, but 470Kohm allows the sound to be set to a comfortable audible level.  Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped into a .156&amp;quot; housing as shown. This resistor/connector set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3 through System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using alligator clip leads to power the board, use special care as to not send +12v down the -12v line (the pins are adjacent to one another).  Sending +12v down the -12v bus will most definitely destroy the 1408 DAC chip (if populated).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Is Very Faint Even at Maximum Volume =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:55536-CVSD.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Two hard to find 55536 CVSD ICs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
While most techs would suspect either a TL082 or a TL084 amplifier (on a pre-DCS sound board) or a 1458 amplifier (on a System 11 MPU) as the cause of this issue, the 55516/55532/55536/55564 CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta-Modulator) can also cause this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isolation to the CVSD is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into sound test.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use an oscilloscope to probe pins 9 and 12. A scope must be used since the signals are too subtle for a logic probe to detect.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 is a clock signal. &lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 12 is a data signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is making sounds that use the CVSD, both pin 9 and pin 12 should show &amp;quot;off nominal&amp;quot; signals. If the CVSD is working correctly, the output at pin 3 should be showing signal also. If it is not, then the CVSD has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Some Sounds Lower Volume Than Others =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11DACChannel.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The sound section of a System 11 MPU and the 2N3904 amplifying transistor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another sound anomaly manifests as some sounds being more faint than others is a failure in the 1408 DAC sound lane channel. In High Speed, for example, &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot; exercises both the 1408 and 55536 sound lanes. Sounds 1, 3, and 5 are all made via the 1408 DAC lane. If those sounds are faint, the issue could be the 10uf capacitor (C8), the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) that is used as a pre-amplifier, the 3.3K resistor (R7), or the 1408 DAC. Eliminating the easy possibilities first, replace the 10uf capacitor. If that doesn&#039;t fix the issue, replace the 2N3904. The 2N3904 may &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot; as failed, but not always. If the issue still remains, replace R7. Lastly, replace the 1408 DAC (U2). An equivalent part that may be used is the DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video, showing the problem and resolution can be viewed [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7fk3PtwvtE here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS_Sys11_1408_flipped_lid.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 1408 in the sound section of a System 11 MPU lost its top!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In another instance, Pin*Bot, all of the sounds were faint, except the last two in test.  This ended up being a bad 1408 DAC.  The last two sounds were unaffected, because the 55516 CVSD chip handled them.  With a visual inspection, the 1408 in the pic could not be determined it was bad, until it was in the midst of being desoldered from the circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Voice callouts are much softer than music/sound or missing completely =====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A and 11B MPU boards were populated with different resistor and capacitor value parts. If an 11A MPU is installed into an 11B game (F-14 into an Earthshaker for instance), it is possible that the voice callouts will be noticeably softer than the other music/sound. The following table details the difference between the two sound mixing sections &#039;&#039;(Thanks to Pinsider &amp;quot;Mneubey&amp;quot;)&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11n_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11 (nothing) sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Resistors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R21 is 12K in 11B, 15K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R22 is 22K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R19 is 56K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R16 is 180K in 11B, 56K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R17 is 270K in 11B, 220K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R15 is 180K in 11B, 43K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R20 is 12K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Capacitors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C10 is 470pf in 11B, 1800pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C11 is 100pf in 11B, 180pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C12 is 470pf in 11B, 1200pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C13 is 4700pf in 11B, 4700pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11b_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11B sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Board D-11581 Mixer Section Resistor Values =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D11581ResistorValues.jpg|500px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Mixer&amp;quot; section resistor values across D-11581 sound board games. &#039;&#039;Data courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A through 11C sound boards were populated with different resistor values. The table shown at left details the differences between the sound mixing sections for each game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the value of R13 will change also. It should be 4.99K for &amp;quot;Fire!&amp;quot; through &amp;quot;Police Force&amp;quot;, and 10K for all other games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Some Music or Garbled Music with a D-11581 Sound Board and 5 Bongs=====&lt;br /&gt;
A sound board booting with 5 bongs indicates a failure of the U20 ROM. While U20 could, in fact, have failed, 5 bongs could also mean that the software can&#039;t access U20. In one such case where 5 bongs were heard, during music test, tests 4 and 6 would play music but the music was garbled and/or incorrect. The root cause was W10/W11 jumper settings on the sound board that didn&#039;t match the ROM size. W10/W11 should be set to the left for 27256 ROMs; to the right for 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Modifying a pre-System 11C Sound Board to use 27512 ROMs (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. Note that W3 is &amp;quot;always IN&amp;quot;. The solder mask over the W3 jumper trace has been removed for clarity. Normally the trace is covered by a dashed white silkscreen line.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3Modified.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. W3 has been cut to enable use of 27512 ROMs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some revisions of the D-11581 sound board will not accept 27512 sound ROMs without modification. By the time that revision C was manufactured, jumpers W10 and W11 were added above U20 to enable use of larger ROMs. Prior to that, jumpers W2 and W3 were implemented, but were of little use since both jumpers tied A15 (pin 1) of each EPROM to +5VDC. Making the modification pictured at right, then installing jumper W2, enables the use of 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jokerz specific sound issue=====&lt;br /&gt;
A special case of interference is present on the Jokerz game, which uses a unique stereo sound board.  A deficiency in its design prevents all of the noise from being eliminated from the board.  Details can be found in the original Williams service bulletin here: [http://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf Jokerz service bulletin at IPDB.org]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Whirlwind Doesn&#039;t play Sound 7 During Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
This particularly annoying issue appears to have no impact during gameplay. The only manifestation is that &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot;, sound 7 doesn&#039;t play. The normal sound is an explosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This issue is caused by old game ROM versions at U26 and U27. Revision PA1 doesn&#039;t send the command to the sound subsystem to play sound 7, even though sound 7 is displayed on the alphanumeric display. Updating U26/U27 to &amp;quot;LA3&amp;quot; as can be found at www.ipdb.org will correct this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:YT.png]] Correct Whirlwind sounds are demonstrated in a YouTube video found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Board Theory of Operation (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated and including jumpers W10 and W11]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Major components of the D-11581 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*68B09E externally clocked CPU, which is also used in all WPC MPU and pre-DCS sound boards&lt;br /&gt;
*68B21 Peripheral Interface Adapter, capable of running at 2Mhz&lt;br /&gt;
*Up to 3 ROMs. All boards can accommodate 27256 ROMs. Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
*6116 RAM (2K bytes). Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate a 6264 RAM (8K bytes)&lt;br /&gt;
*YM2151 sound synthesizer paired with the YM3012 DAC (outputs channel 1 and channel 2)&lt;br /&gt;
*55516 CVSD (continuously variable slope delta) audio encoder, which provides a 3rd audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*1408 DAC (digital to analog converter), which provides a 4th audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*Various 74XX ICs that perform address decoding and chip selection logic&lt;br /&gt;
*1458 pre-amplifiers and TDA2002 amplifiers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11581 sound board shares a lot of board design and architecture of the pre-DCS sound board that was introduced with WPC games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power requirements for the board are supplied via connector J3. The typical sound board power levels are required, 5VDC, 12VDC, -12VDC, and Ground. Three 100uf capacitors reduce noise on the power busses along with several small ceramic caps which filter high frequency noise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Reset&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The on board 68B09E is reset via the external reset signal provided by the MPU board, via connection J4, pin 18. If attempting to operate the board without the MPU board connected, the processor must be manually reset via momentarily grounding pin 37 of the 68B09E.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Clocking&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clocking signal for the board originates at the 8Mhz crystal oscillator. U16, a 74LS74 Dual D-Type FlipFlop divides the clock signal yielding both the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Q&amp;quot;clock signal. E and Q are phase shifted by one half clock cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chip Select Logic&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chip select is accomplished via the normal &amp;quot;memory mapped I/O&amp;quot; method, using U14 (74LS139) and U15 (74LS138). &lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for all three ROMs (U4, U19, U20) is implemented by U14.&lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for the RAM (U5), YM2151 (U3), and the 6821 (U12) is implemented by U15.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;How sounds are produced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are provided via J4, a dual row .100 connector of 20 pins. These sound selects are held &amp;quot;normally high&amp;quot; via a 4.7K/470pf 10-pin bussed SIP pull-up resistor/capacitor (SR1) tied to 5VDC. These SIP resistor/capacitor parts are no longer available. A bussed 4.7K 9-pin resistor network can be used as a replacement. The capacitor feature of the original part filtered high frequency noise from the communication lines. In practice, noise doesn&#039;t impact the interface significantly enough to be of concern.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board will pull the appropriate sound select signals to ground via the 6821 PIA at Uxx. When the appropriate signals are pulled to ground, the PIA is programmed to interrupt the 68B09E processor via the FIRQ and NMI signals. The 68B09E then reads the sound select signals presented at the 6821s input port (PB0 through PB7) via the processor data bus (D0 through D7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor then employs the 4 sound channels available to it, along with encoded sound files contained in the ROM images, to create the intended sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Where Do The Sounds Come From?====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections can be used to ensure that all sounds are played by the Williams combined MPU and Sound Board System.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Comet|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-2m7vKCeg2A Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Sorcerer || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pXacwGqv5C4 Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Shuttle || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/B-gsuEw1jgU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Cats || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-JJKPvMBplg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bally Game Show || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/vwA4FST62ug Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Banzai Run || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/6D87Z2iUsv0?si=x8BKbDsxHFI_yodb Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight 2000 || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/uyJlxc2ewtY Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Cyclone || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pEdSxFu1Zio Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Diner || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rwCLpG5jU2I Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Earthshaker || [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eH0FVvbBQUQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Elvira &amp;amp; the Party Monsters || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/OS_SRCNaMwg?si=6Wop4YLK2wa6Mco4 Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| F-14 Tomcat || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rG26I-oDK6E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Fire! || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/dXKRw1GqUcQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| High Speed || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/yAmJzD9EAZA Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| PinBot || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/CoVvhwggLfU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Police Force || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/Em63v0-zJKk?si=gt3qD2jLsqJFdwlW Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Pool Sharks || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/gceZEgLMaDQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Rollergames || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/tN-Ns9eh8Pg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Station || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/9XERXpVGCsY?si=jSNjikeN1nM6GeQy Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Swords of Fury || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/u6baQrse5LI?si=3Y85cpAXqDF5_Qis Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Taxi || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/P7DIs5djK-E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Whirlwind|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Circuit Schematics Error ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Correct wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems Incorrect.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Incorrect wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.  Some of the early System 11 manuals show incorrect wiring for the EOS switch.  One of the EOS switch wires should be soldered to the center lug of the coil.  However, the other wire should be soldered to the lug with the non-banded side (anode) of the diode, not the lug with the banded side (cathode) of the diode.  Manuals which have this misinformation are High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings. Millionaire and Pinbot appear to be fine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Electrical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;50V Flipper Power Board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;Aux Power Supply&amp;quot; board that was introduced with these games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and 11 flipper circuitry is identical to all prior Williams System 3-7 games. The design had not changed from even the old electro-mechanical flipper implementation when the End of Stroke switch was introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yes, Williams used serial wound coils from High Speed to Millionaire and then converted to parallel wound coils beginning with F-14 TomCat and throughout the rest of the System 11 run and into the WPC run. But the basic operation of System 9/11 coils remained &amp;quot;EM-like&amp;quot; whether serial or parallel wound.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are only three switches that can affect the electrical operation of a System 11 flipper, including strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Switches inside the Flipper Enable relay (K1), located on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The cabinet flipper button switches.&lt;br /&gt;
#An End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch associated with each flipper coil and integrated into the flipper mechanism assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Series Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the flipper coil. The EOS switch is closed, creating a short across the low power windngs, that removes resistance of the low power windings from the circuit. Only the smaller number of high power windings are &amp;quot;in circuit&amp;quot; with the EOS switch closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at the low resistance high power windings of the coil. The coil plunger is pulled into the coil and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, removing the short across the low power windings, and placing them in series along with the high power windings. Together, the total resistance of the coil becomes the sum of both the low power and the high power windings. With more windings, the coil will have higher resistance and hence, lower power. The combined high resistance windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelWoundFlipperDiagram.jpg|left|400px|thumb|Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Diagram courtesy of Chris Hibler.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the low power windings of the flipper coil. And, since the EOS switch is closed, the high power windings also have a path to ground. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;both&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; of the coil parallel windings. Since electrical current &amp;quot;takes the path of least resistance&amp;quot; the lower resistance high power winding takes most of the current and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, breaking the path to ground for the high power windings. The high resistance low power windings remain in circuit, and provide &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; power to the flipper coil. The high resistance low power windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Mechanical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Return springs&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured nylon bushing&lt;br /&gt;
*Insufficient gap between nylon bushing and crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat damaged coil&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil sleeve&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil stop&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper shaft slipping within crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Others?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 Display Single AlphaNumeric Character Won&#039;t Light===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11B Bridged Header.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A solder bridge on the &amp;quot;digit strobe&amp;quot; connector.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the category of &amp;quot;things that will make you crazy&amp;quot;, the solder bridge pictured at left shorted pins 8 and 9 on the connector that carries the digit strobes to a System 11 display. This prevented one of the digits on the display from ever lighting. It&#039;s always a good idea to examine prior work closely. Assuming the prior tech knew what they were doing is not always valid.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a System 6/7 Speech Board in a Comet===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 CPU with 2732 Speech.JPG|300px|left|thumb|A Modified System 6/7 Speech Board Functioning with a System 9 CPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should the need arise, a System 6/7 speech board can be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified to use 2732 EPROMs] for a Comet.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a Data East MPU Board in a System 11 Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Whaaaat?!?!  Yes, a Data East MPU can be used in a Williams or Bally System 11 game.  However, this is limited to System 11C games only, and only a DE 520-5003-03 (Version 3) MPU can be used.  The reason for this limitation is because games previous to 11C have some or all of the sound section circuitry on the MPU board populated, the 11C does not.  Likewise, DE boards do not have any sound section circuitry located on them by design.  The board swap is not a simple drop in replacement though.  Some minor modifications have to be performed for the DE board to function properly in an 11C game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first hurdle is to properly power the DE board.  Connection 1J17 is where power originates on the 11C board.  The complimentary connection on a DE board is CN17.  The problem is that these connections are keyed differently between the two boards.  1J17 has a key at pin 7, while the key on CN17 is at pin 8.  The safest way to make a connection to CN17 with the 11C game harness is to remove pin 7 on the DE board.  This will have no ill effect, if the DE board is to be placed back into a DE game.  The worst case scenario if pin 7 is removed and the board placed back into a DE game is that the CN17 connector housing could be installed off by one pin, thus shorting the +5v to ground, and blowing the logic voltage fuse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Jumpers for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Correct jumper setting on DE MPU for 11C game ROMs]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Special Solenoid Wire Swap for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Addition harness and Z-connector installed to correct special solenoid drive outputs]]&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the game ROM jumpers have to be set correctly.  Since all 11C games use dual ROMs, jumper setting J4 must be in on the DE MPU, while J5 is out.  Install the 11C game ROMS in the following positions.  U27 (ROM 1) is to be inserted into the 5C socket, while U26 (ROM 2) is installed into the 5B socket.  Notch on the chip / socket is facing to the right.  There is an alternative method.  The code for the dual ROMs can be burned into a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Burning_Dual_ROMs_into_a_Single_5C_ROM single 27512 EPROM.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, there is a problem with how DE boards poll the special solenoid drivers differently than 11C boards.  Two of the drivers are correct (solenoids 17 and 21), while the four others are mismatched.  To overcome this problem, either a harness can be created (DE board to 11C harness) with a Z-connector installed between 1J19 and the game harness, or the 7-pin housing (the 9-pin housing at 1J19 is split with a 2-pin housing and a 7-pin housing) at 1J19 can be repinned.  The benefit of building a harness and adding a Z-connector is that it is easily reversible, if an 11C board is to be placed back into the game at a future time.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following wires will have to be connected to 1J19 / CN19 on the DE board for the game to function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Stock Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Swapped Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || ORG-VIO || ORG-VIO  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || ORG-GRY || ORG-GRY  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || BLU-ORG || BLU-YEL  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || BLU-RED || BLU-ORG  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || Key || None  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || BLU-YEL || BLU-BLK  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || BLU-BRN || BLU-BRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || BLU-GRN || BLU-GRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || BLU-BLK || BLU-RED  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane at Game Start (Pinbot) ===&lt;br /&gt;
Trough and shooter lane switches test alright in switch test.  Ball feeder coil from trough to shooter lane tests fine in solenoid test.  If the motor for the visor is disconnected, and the visor does not cycle at the start of the game, the ball will not kick to the shooter lane.  This may be an issue if one or both of the visor switches are not recognized too.  Not certain what code revision this particular game was running.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane and Drop Target Will Not Reset (Cyclone) ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone UnderPF Fuse 1A 5A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Fuse under the playfield of a Cyclone, which powers solenoids 1A and 5A]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Both the outhole solenoid (1a) and drop target reset solenoid (5a) are the only multiplexed 24v coils in Cyclone.  The power wires for these coils are brown.  For some reason, Williams decided it would be a good idea to put a fuse under the playfield for these coils &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(which is not included in the documentation)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.  The fuse/fuseholder is located just to the right of the spook house subway.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids Are Not Pulsed During Solenoid Test on System 9 Games===&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the enabling switch associated with the special solenoid device.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU energizes a coil 5 times===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Police Force&#039;&#039;&#039; - After the pinball is switched on the ramp diverter coil engages 5 times. After the game start the diverter coil engages 5 times again. Diverter mechanism doesn&#039;t hold in position. So after the coil is energized the mechanism falls back and so the switch is closed again. Then the software tries another 4 times to resolve the problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; Clean the diverter mechanism and in particular the plastic. Lubricate the plastic lanes!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Elvira and the Party Monsters drop target reset coil blows the lamp matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
The drop target reset coil should be mounted with the solder tabs down. If mounted with the solder tabs up, (toward the playfield) the solder tabs can contact the J-A-M lamp sockets. This blows the lamp matrix ICs on the MPU board by sending coil voltage through the lamp matrix.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=25022</id>
		<title>Williams System 9 - 11</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=25022"/>
		<updated>2025-03-13T00:56:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* MPU boot issues - added link to Leon&amp;#039;s repair notes for System 9 */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms sys9 boardset.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 Board Set from Space Shuttle]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingBackbox.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 (nothing) Board Set from High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Boardset.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 11A Board Set from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Jokerz Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11b Board Set from Jokerz! (Note that power supply is a prototype)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sy11B Boardset.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11b Board Set from Transporter the Rescue]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11C_Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|System 11c Board Set from Rollergames]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams system 7 boardset was replaced in 1984 with the system 9 boardset, and then again in 1985 with the system 11 boardset.  Combining the driver board, sound board, and cpu directly onto one board eliminated several design deficiencies of the earlier 3-7 boardsets; mainly the 40 pin interconnector, and extra wiring harness inter-board connectors.  Larger ROMs could be fitted directly onto the boards allowing for more complex rulesets and sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 and System 11 board sets are not 100% compatible. With a fair amount of effort, a System 11 board could be made compatible with a System 9, but it is not worth the extended effort to change the jumpers. It&#039;s far easier to just modify the rom images so that they are plug and play when installed in a System 11 CPU. You can find them already on the ipdb. The primary differences between the System 9 and System 11 board sets are the sound system and rom space.&lt;br /&gt;
(add more info later)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As time went on, the System 11 board set underwent some changes too.  The power supply, sound board, and CPU / driver board have minor changes.  More apparent was the addition of circuit boards.  Starting with the 11a board set, a more complex sound board was added (System 11 sound boards are strictly background sounds only).  Later in the System 11 series, sound functions were partially (11B) or fully removed (11C) from the MPU, and eventually were solely handled by a dedicated sound board. Game-specific interconnect boards and auxiliary power driver boards were introduced in System 11B games.  The interconnect boards acted as a pass-through for switch, lamp, flasher, and solenoid signal lines and circuits. It also allowed circuits with different voltages to share the same power source by using current limiting resistors to drop voltages to the appropriate levels.  All general illumination fuses were moved to this board.  The auxiliary power driver board has the AC relay, which finally centralized the location of it.  Likewise, several fuses, beefier TIP36C transistors, and bridge rectifiers are centralized on the auxiliary power driver board.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|Strike Zone|| 1984 || 1916  || unknown || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light|| 06-1984 || 530 || no speech || || 5610-09563-00 || only a few were made with System 9 boards inside&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Space Shuttle|| 12-1984 || 535 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sorcerer|| 03-1985 || 532 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet|| 06-1985 || 540 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alley Cats|| 10-1985 || 1918 || Unknown ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[High Speed]]|| 01-1986 || 541 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grand Lizard|| 04-1986 || 523 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Road Kings|| 07-1986 || 542 || D-11197-542 (Background music only)  || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinbot|| 10-1986 || 549 || D-11297-549 (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tic Tac Strike|| 11-1986 || 1919 || Unknown ||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Millionaire|| 01-1987 || 555 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11298-555.JPG | D-11298-555]] (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|F-14 Tomcat|| 03-1987 || 554 || D-11298-554 (Used on 1st 5,000 games - Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound) / D-11581-554 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire!|| 08-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire! Champagne Edition|| 09-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
!Aux Power Driver&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big Guns|| 10-1987 || 557 || D-11581-557 || D-8345-557 || D-11583-557 || C-11762 || Uses D-11814 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Space Station]]|| 12-1987 || 552 || D-11581-552 || D-8345-557  || D-11813-552 || C-11762-552 || Uses D-11814-552 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Mine|| 01-1988 || 1920 || None || D-8345-1914 || None || None ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone|| 02-1988 || 564 ||[[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG | D-11581-564]]  || D-8345-557  ||  D-11813-574 || C-11762-564|| Uses D-11814-564 Flash Lamp Resistor Board  || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run|| 05-1988 || 566 || D-11581-566 || D-8345-566 ||D-12247-566 || D-12112 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Swords of Fury]]|| 06-1988 || 559 || D-11581-559 || D-8345-557 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-559 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Taxi|| 08-1988 || 553 || D-11581-553 || D-12246-553 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-553 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Top Dawg|| 11-1988 || 1921 || None || D-12246 || None || D-12313-1921 || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jokerz!|| 12-1988 || 567 || D-12338-567 || D-12246 ||  D-12247-559|| D-12313-567 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Earthshaker]]|| 02-1989 || 568 || [[Media:System 11 Sound Board.JPG | D-11581-568]] || D-12246-568 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-568|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight 2000]]|| 04-1989 || 563 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-585.JPG | D-11581-585]] || D-12246 || D-12247-563 || D-12313-563|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Transporter the Rescue|| 04-1989 || 2008 || D-11581-2008 || D-12246  || D-12247-2008|| D-12313-2008 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Police Force|| 08-1989 || 573 || D-11581-573 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-573|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Shuffle Inn|| 10-1989 || 1922 || None (assumed) || D-12246 (assumed) || None || D-12313-1922 (assumed)||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Elvira and the Party Monsters|| 10-1989 || 2011 || D-11581-2011 || D-12246 || D-12247-2011|| D-12313-2011 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats|| 11-1989 || 575 || D-11581-575 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-575|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mousin&#039; Around!|| 12-1989 || 2009 || D-11581-2009 || D-12246 ||D-12247-2009 || D-12313-2209 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Whirlwind]]|| 01-1990 || 574 || D-11581-574 || D-12246 || D-12247-574 ||D-12313-574 || Uses a C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board to control 5 extra devices || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11C===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Bally Game Show|| 04-1990 || 2003 || D-11581-2003 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2003 || Uses a C-13286 Sound Overlay Lamp Board || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pool Sharks|| 06-1990 || 2014 || D-11581-2014 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2014 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Rollergames]]|| 06-1990 || 576 || D-11581-576 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-576 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner|| 09-1990 || 571 || D-11581-571 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-571 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Radical!|| 09-1990 || 2015 || D-11581-2015 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2015 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude|| 11-1990 || 2016 || D-11581-2016 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2016 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Riverboat Gambler]]|| 11-1990 || 50007 || D-11581-50007 w/ 512K ROMS (assumed) || D-12313-50007|| || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball|| 01-1991 || 20009 || D-11581-20009 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-20009 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Documentation Errors====&lt;br /&gt;
* Error on the [[High_Speed#MPU_Schematics_Error_for_U21_.26_U22|MPU I/O signals for U21 / U22 of High Speed]].&lt;br /&gt;
* [[#Flipper_Circuit_Schematics_Error|Flipper Circuit Schematics Error]] in the manuals for High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Details for board and cabinet schematics System 9-11 games can be found in the game manual or parts catalogs. Some copies can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball] or on [http://www.ipdb.org/ IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Troubleshooting &amp;amp; Reference Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|69-8955 (April 21, 1986)&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-pinball-troubleshooting-reference-manual_16-8955_sys9.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet, High Speed, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
|System 9 games. Also includes Strike Zone shuffle alley game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|D-11581 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Parts Catalogs===&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Parts catalogs also had supplementary updates to add and replace pages as newer games were released after the initial release of the catalogs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1986-1989)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/rvsk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-blue-book_16-9064-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Black Knight 2000, Comet, Cyclone, Earthshaker!, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Jokerz!, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Police Force, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (1989-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/feme/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-red-book_16-9190-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Dracula, Fish Tales, Funhouse, The Getaway, Hurricane, The Machine, Riverboat Gambler, Rollergames, Slugfest, Terminator 2, Whirlwind, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/itjk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Bally-midway-parts-catalog-yellow-book_16-9147-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Atlantis, Black Rose, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Dr. Who, Elvira, Game Show, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Party Zone, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Supplementary service bulletin books were released, which included service bulletins that detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1989&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-Service-Bulletin-Book-1989-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1989.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone, Bonzai Run, Taxi, Earthshaker, Truck Stop, Transporter&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1990&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1990-service-bulletin-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1990.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner, Police Force, Pool Sharks, Rollergames&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1991-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude, Jokerz, Riverboat Gambler&lt;br /&gt;
|This book includes some WPC games&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 eliminated a huge issue with the earlier system 3 through 7 boardsets, the 40 pin interconnect between the MPU and Driver boards.  All circuitry previously separated into MPU, driver, and sound boards was combined into a single MPU board. Satellite boards were still used for displays, speech, and solenoid expansion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with &#039;&#039;&#039;Big Guns&#039;&#039;&#039;, Williams introduced another weak link into their system, the interconnect board. Initial implementations were used to disperse the general illumination between the playfield and backbox. The connectors on interconnect boards were prone to overheating and failure just like prior implementations. At the same time, flash lamp resistor boards were being used. These were created to collocate all of the flashlamp current limiting resistors, and eliminate under playfield flashlamp resistor boards, which had proven themselves problematic in the high heat, high vibration environment under the playfield. Resistors often desoldered themselves and/or vibrated so much that the connection fractured. Flash lamp resistor boards were only used on three games:  Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone. In addition to the interconnect and the flash lamp resistor board, the auxiliary power driver board made its appearance. The auxiliary power driver board housed all of the high current transistors (TIP36c), solenoid and flasher fuses (including discrete flipper fuses), the AC select relay, and the solenoid power bridge rectifiers. The auxiliary power driver board did go through some minor changes, but it was functionally equivalent through the last System 11C game.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Banzai Run, a more standardized interconnect board was created. This interconnect board merged the general illumination interconnect with the flasher driver board. Switch and lamp circuits passed directly through this board as a matter of manufacturing convenience. Later interconnect boards added 3 opto couplers to indicate when the flippers and AC relay were activated (the same circuitry as used in the flipper power section of the WPC-089 -1 Power/Driver board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest advantages of the system 11 board set is its ability to switch one set of coil driver transistors between 2 sets of coils/flashers. This is accomplished via a relay on a separate board called the A/C select relay (the A/C select relay was eventually moved to the auxiliary power driver board starting with Big Guns). The theory is that coils that are less frequently activated will be on the A side of the relay, and that flashers will be on the C side of the relay.  Most of the time during gameplay, the C side is active, enabling the flashers. If the driver transistor for the A/C select relay itself shorts, the relay defaults to the coil side, allowing the game to continue to operate in a reasonable fashion (usually the A side coils are the ball shooter lane, drop target resets, VUK - basically coils that don&#039;t need to be able to operate 100% of the time unlike a slingshot coil or pop bumper coil).  Data East&#039;s board set was essentially a copy of the system 11 board set, but Data East programmed it the opposite way, so that the flasher side of the A/C select relay is active by default. Data East games, when the A/C relay doesn&#039;t operate, just sits there and flashes lamps instead of playing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and early System 11 games do share a disadvantage with the earlier 3-7 board sets, they still utilize special solenoid circuitry. The pops and slings on system 9/11 games do not activate via a switch which is seen by the MPU&#039;s program which fires the coil. Instead, the switches directly fire their associated coils via logic gates on the main board. The main disadvantage with this system is that the solenoids fire continuously as long as their activation switch is closed. A locked on sling or pop will burn out components quickly. It is recommended to add a 1, 1.5, or 2 amp inline fuse to each coil on a directly fired system 11 game. Usually just the pops and slings are direct fired coils. However, other coils were designated to the special solenoids. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games did not use the direct fire solenoid switches. Switches on the switch matrix were used instead. To easily identify games which do not use direct fire solenoid switches, IJ18 on the MPU board will not have a harness connection attached to it.  Likewise, the slingshots and pop bumpers will no longer have a set of scoring switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One way that System 9 games differ from the previous 3-7 board set is that the special solenoids are not controlled by the CPU at all. In other words, the special solenoids are not pulsed during solenoid test, as the physical board architecture does allow for this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The software in system 9-11 games continued with the same machine architecture from system 6 and 7, except for the special solenoids as mentioned above. More ram became available, up to 2k, but no game used over 800 bytes. This is likely due to the lower cost of 6264 RAM than 6116 RAM as was used in early System 9-11 games more than any other reason. Additional diagnostics in the form of switch error checking appeared in system 11. Any switch not activated over 30 games (16 games for flipper switches) would cause an error to be called out at power on. The software was able to compensate for broken switches by designating another switch to perform the same function as the broken switch.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9MPU.jpg |300px|thumb|left|System 9 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9MPUFactoryMod.jpg |300px|thumb|right|These high frequency filter capacitors were added at the factory, and are normal. Their purpose is the snub high frequency noise in the Advance and Auto Up/Down coin door button circuits.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 9 MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a single version of the System 9 MPU in all System 9 games. A few minor modifications to the board may have been made, but it&#039;s essentially the same board for the entire 3 game run of Space Shuttle, Sorcerer, and Comet. The picture at left shows an early board that featured two inductors (copper wound coils that &amp;quot;smooth&amp;quot; DC power) at L1 and L2, adjacent to connector 1J17. Later revisions of the board used &amp;quot;zero ohm&amp;quot; jumpers instead, presumably to reduce cost.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUFront.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 10 MPU component side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUBack.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Williams System 10 MPU solder side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams released a single game using an MPU board designated &#039;&#039;&#039;System 10&#039;&#039;&#039;. The game &amp;quot;4-in-1&amp;quot; ([https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=4-in-1&amp;amp;sortby=name&amp;amp;search=Search+Database&amp;amp;searchtype=quick IPDB link]) was released in 1985 and is more like Pachinko than pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From the Internet Pinball Database:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;&amp;quot;This game is known in Williams documentation as &amp;quot;4-IN-1&amp;quot; but that name never appears on the game itself. A total of 100 games were produced. Each came with four interchangeable playfield overlays for the themes of Baseball, Poker, Football, and Soccer. The operator could change the overlay and Instruction Card, re-option switches, and have a new game in the same cabinet.&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11&#039;&#039;&#039; games used one of four different revisions of the System 11 MPU. The first version of the System 11 MPU was completely self-contained, able to make game sounds on the board. A simple background sound board was used to add some game sounds. Between the baseline revision of the System 11 MPU and the last revision of the MPU (System 11C) incrementally more of the sound processing and sound circuitry was removed from the board (not stuffed).  None of the System 11 shuffle alley games use a separate sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem11CPU.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early System 11 (nothing) MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingLater.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Later System 11 (nothing) MPU. Note extensive alkaline corrosion abatement, NVRAM install, and use of modern reset generator. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11 (nothing) MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This picture shows the early System 11 MPU. A later revision of this MPU, pictured at right, has an additional jumper W16 located between the 7 segment diagnostic display and the relay, and a 4.7K ohm resistor between the 7447 and the resistor DIP. The early PCB on the left has a trace routing error to the sound ribbon cable connector. If you use it with a later system 11A sound card you will get no sound because the sound card doesn&#039;t get reset properly. If you wonder why your High Speed doesn&#039;t beep when turning it on this one is also the culprit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11ZenerDiodeAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes added to the back of the System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were added to the layout of the PCB in subsequent revisions of the board (11A, etc).]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|right|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) incorporated into the board layout and stuffed at the factory on a later board revision. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows six 6.2V zener diodes added to the solder side of a System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were left off the factory silkscreen of the board. Later revisions of the System 11 MPU added them to the component side of the board. Their purpose is to protect the special solenoid switch inputs. Either a ZPY6,2/ZD6,2/1N4735A (1 watt) or ZF5,2/1N5234B (1/2 watt) can be used. This mod is purely optional. In reality the diode doesn&#039;t help much if you short the switch input with the solenoid voltage. In this case the diode and the 7402 are usually damaged and need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, if the System 11 (nothing) MPU is used in a System 11A game or later, pins 6 and 7 of the adjacent connector (J18) must be tied to the ground plane at the edge of the board. These pins provide the ground for the special solenoids. Without the modification they do not work. Some early System 11A pins might not need the mod. If unsure just check if a cable is connected to pin 6 or 7 in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A-PB.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A rare prototype System 11a MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11aTransitionVersion.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Blanking, 5VDC, and Diagnostic LEDs factory installed in a &amp;quot;transition&amp;quot; vintage System 11a MPU. The prior version 7447 (U48) and resistor DIP (U47) has been replaced with a 7407, discrete resistors and LEDs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11TransitionTag.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A prototype System 11a MPU with original label]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11a &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Prototype&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This MPU was only used in Pin Bot. It&#039;s actually a System 11 (nothing) MPU PCB layout, with the  7 segment LED display replaced at the factory with 3 LEDs as used in all later System 11 MPUs (11A/B/C). The latest trace revision of this board also has the ground mod (connect 1J18, pins 6 and 7 to board ground) allowing it to work in any 11A/B/C game without modification. According to a friend it was referred to by the name of 11a instead of 11A by distributors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A late production System 11A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11A MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11A MPU can be used in all System 11 games. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and possibly the amplifier section must be stuffed. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board. On early production system 11A boards, the amplifier section was fully stuffed, just like the original System 11 board. Later in the production of System 11A boards, the amplifier section was not stuffed, just like an 11B board. But unlike System 11B boards, the System 11A board still has the same switch section layout as the original System 11 MPU, making it easy to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 CPU Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11B MPU. Note that a large portion of the sound circuitry, including the TDA2002 amp, was not stuffed in late System 11A boards or any System 11B MPU boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11B MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11B MPU can be used in all System 11 games too. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and all of the sound amplification components must be added to the board. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11C.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C MPU. Note that none of the sound circuitry, including the 6802 processor and 6821 PIA, is stuffed in System 11C MPU boards. All sounds were generated by the sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11C MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11C MPU can be used only in System 11C games since none of the sound processing circuitry was stuffed.  It can be used in games prior to 11C, if the sound section is populated.  However, some of the components needed are rare and / or costly, and there are a fair amount to install.  If there is no other choice but to use this board, it is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU9211.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU004.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The RottenDog &amp;quot;MPU004&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU with sound section overlay]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;RottenDog MPU9211 and MPU004 Aftermarket MPUs&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU9211 (shown at left) was designed to support all Williams System 9 - 11 games. How well the board works across that great breadth of games is somewhat questionable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CVSD used on this board is a CMX639D4 produced by CML Microcircuits. It replaces the 55516 (or 55536) CVSD used at U3 on original System 9 - 11 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU004 (shown at right) was an earlier design thought to support all Data East and System 11 games. Again, how well the board accomplishes this for Williams games is questionable. A significant source of confusion on this board (like all RottenDog boards with DIP switches) is that the DIP switches are labeled opposite of traditional labeling. That is, set all switches to OFF for Williams games, ON for Data East games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDWilliams9211LaterRev.jpg |300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU, later revision]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A later revision of the RottenDog 9211 MPU included a second trim POT to adjust the balance between 1408 DAC sounds and 55536 CVSD sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Picture of the lamp column portion of the lamp matrix of a System 9 MPU board.  Note that the TIP42 drive transistors were removed from this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The lamp matrix is made up of two parts - the lamp columns (drives) and lamp rows (returns).  In most cases, the lamp row consists of eight 2N5060 over-current shunt SCR&#039;s and eight TIP122 drive transistors, while the lamp column consists of eight 2N6427 predrive transistors (WMS sometimes used MPS-A14 instead) and eight TIP42 or TIP42C transistors.  However, there are some instances, as shown in the pic to the left, where the predrive transistors for the lamp columns are 2N6548s.  It is unknown why Williams chose to use these transistors on occasion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The over-current shunt circuit on the lamp row (returns) works by sensing the voltage drop across the 0.4 ohm, 3 Watt resistor on emitter of the TIP122 driver transistor. If a short circuit is present in the lamp row, the short circuit current will result in a higher than normal voltage drop across the emitter resistor. This voltage will trigger the gate of the 2N5060 SCR, causing it to turn on and shunt the base drive to the TIP122 transistor. This will turn off the driver transistor and prevent damage due to excessive current. Note that an RC circuit consisting of a 0.1uF capacitor and 1K ohm resistor is present on the gate of the SCR. This prevents a false trigger of the over-current shunt circuit due to an initial peak current from cold lamp filaments.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Switch Matrix Explained=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System9SwitchMatrix.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The System 9 Switch Matrix circuitry, as found in the Sorcerer manual.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Description&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At regular intervals, say 1 every msec or so, the 6808 microprocessor scans the switch matrix. This is done by pulling one switch column to ground, then sensing the switch row return state. Each row on which ground is detected means that the switch at the intersection of the column grounded and the detected row ground, is closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Hardware Detail&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 writes the column data to the address location occupied by the 6821 at U15 on the board. This causes the 6821 output registers (PB0 – PB7) to propagate the data to a 74LS244 octal buffer at U45. The 74LS244 mirrors that same data at it&#039;s output pins. The data pattern on these output pins will have all bits set to logic “1” except one bit, which will be set to logic zero, or electrical ground. The ground is applied to the base of a 2N3904 transistor (which had been held high by a 4.7K SIP pull-up resistor SR8) where the ground is applied to the switch column (called switch matrix drives on the schematic).&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Closed switches connected to that column will then cause the normally high (via yet another pull up resistor, SR16) gate at a 74LS08 quad NAND gate (U51 and U52) to be pulled to ground. This NAND gate enables the circuitry to detect a switch closure returned via either connector 1J9 or 1J10.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 then “reads” the row returns by reading from the address space occupied by the same 6821 at U15 used to pulse the column strobes earlier. This time it reads 6821 registers PA0 – PA7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the processor knows which column it drew to ground, and it knows which rows were caused to be pulled to ground via closed switches attached to the column. From this information, the closed switches can be identified. Genius. Bania: “I&#039;m tellin&#039; ya Jerry, this switch matrix stuff is gold Jerry, it&#039;s gold!”.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch diode isolates the switch in the matrix. Without this isolation diode, multiple simultaneous switch closures will cause false returns and confuse the processor. A switch diode that is open will always prevent a switch from registering, in the same way that a broken wire or failed open switch would.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jumper Settings and Locations for System 9 &amp;amp; 11 MPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are charts of the jumpers on System 9 &amp;amp; 11 boards.  Rather than listing the boards by their platform (System 11A/B/C), each chart is listed by the numbers stenciled on the circuit boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10749-00 REV. C (System 9)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W2, W5, W6, W7, W9, &amp;amp; W12.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1 / W2|| Below U12  || Microprocessor Internal RAM Enable. W1 IN, W2 OUT when using 6802, reverse when using 6808 || U12 RAM can be removed with 6802 and W1 installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W3||  ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Left of U49 || Country jumper. Remove for German factory settings, add for US factory settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U5 || Along with W7, used to send +12V to opto rows   || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U5 || Along with W6, used to send +12V to opto rows  || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +12v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W9|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +5v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10|| Below U50  || Installed - sounds from CPU board can be played without speech board attached  || Typically not installed, except Strike Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W11|| Below U37 ||  Used when U19 game ROM 2 is used || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| Below U36 || Used to increase U20 game ROM 1 size from 2764 to 27128 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. - (Typically System 11)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, &amp;amp; W7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U48 || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. B (Typically System 11 - Referred to as Prototype System 11a in text above)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU    || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Blanking signal to input &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; of U48 LED decoder chip  || not present on first pcb revision&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12091-00 REV. - (Typically System 11A)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| Below U23 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12206-00 REV. A (Typically System 11B &amp;amp; 11C)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U25  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U25  || only 2K will be used from the factory&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs ||  Remove for German text, add for English text || This jumper is not used in games with 16 digit score displays. Instead, install the U26 and U27 EPROMs for country and game. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| To the left of U24|| Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W18 || Below U23 || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U23 || only 2K will be used. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W19 || Below U23 || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U23 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Combining the System 9 Sound ROM Images====&lt;br /&gt;
Pinside user, &amp;quot;Dumbass&amp;quot;, has created replacement System 9 MPU boards.  One of the new things that he implemented in the board design is a daughterboard that can be mounted to the main MPU, which handles the speech duties.  Therefore, the speech board with its sometimes problematic ribbon cable no longer has to be used.  However, the sound and speech chip code now has to be combined together on a 27256 PROM, which is used at position U49.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
The file [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732] is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[File:Pad.zip]]. Below is how the code should be concatenated for it to work properly.  It is very similar to what is done for the System 9 code to be modified for a System 11 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Space Shuttle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = 0000h&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sorcerer&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = E67Fh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Comet&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum =  F9CCh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Converting the System 9 ROM Images to work in a System 11 MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to create System 11 compatible ROM images from System 9 ROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The file &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;[https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[file:Pad.zip]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 CPU works out of the box with a 27128 EPROM at location U27. You may choose to double the ROM image, creating a 27256 image so that its size is consistent with the other System 11 U27 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove jumper W8 and install jumper W9 on the System 11 CPU to enable sound to work properly. System 11 controls the sound reset via software. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Space Shuttle=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sorcerer=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u21.128 + cpu_u21.128 cpu_u21.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u22.128 + cpu_u22.128 cpu_u22.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.732 + cpu_u20.764 cpu_u20.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.l2.bin + cpu_u20.l2.bin cpu_u20.l2.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.l2.128 + cpu_u20.l2.128 cpu_u27.l2.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sorcerer is the only System 9 pinball game using 2 ROMs which make things complicated for repair. You can use the cpu_u20.128 image in a system 9 CPU jumpered for Space Shuttle or Comet. If you install W12 and remove W11 the CPU will be jumpered for a 27128 EPROM. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Comet=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 /b    &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech 2532.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board Using 2532 PROMs (from Space Shuttle)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|System 9 Speech Board Using 2732 PROMs (from Comet)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The speech board used in the three System 9 games, Space Shuttle, Sorcerer and Comet is essentially the same as the speech board used in System 6/7 games. However the speech board was enhanced during the Space Shuttle run. Four jumpers were added to accomodate either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs. When burning EPROMs, make certain which style of ROM is used.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Early Later.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board - Left unit is from early Space Shuttle, right is from later Space Shuttle]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Only the early Space Shuttles use 2532 EPROMs from the factory. Later Shuttles, Sorcerer and Comet use 2732 EPROMs.  The later speech board is backward compatible. If using such a board, either 2532s or 2732s can be used for the first two System 9 games (or System 6/7 games), provided that the jumpers are set for the appropriate EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the speech board generating speech sounds, it mixes the sound and speech signals via the potentiometer on the speech board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsSystem11BackgroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Background Sound board as found in High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11197 Road Kings Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11197 Background Sound board as found in Road Kings]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsD-11297BackGroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11297 Sound board as found in Pinbot, fully populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11298 Pinbot Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11298 Sound board as found in Pinbot. This version only has U4 populated (U19 is not).  Uncertain why U19 is needed.  Note that the CVSD &amp;quot;lane&amp;quot; of the board is not stuffed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System_11_Sound_Board.JPG|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound board, not completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D-11581-F14.jpg ‎|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound board, completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated, with W10/W11 Jumpers. W10/W11 enable use of 512K sound ROMs as found in all System 11C games like Game Show, Dr. Dude, Pool Sharks, Rollergames, Diner, Radical, and Bugs Bunny]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-12238 Jokerz Sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:JokerzSoundBoardPinOut.png|700px|thumb|right|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only - Connector PinOut]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581SchematicIcon.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Use hyperlink at right to open D-11581 sound board schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581PartsDelta.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Parts missing from partially populated D-11581 sound boards]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Link to:&#039;&#039;&#039; [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|Schematics for the D-11581 sound board]].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The parts shown at right represent the delta from a partially populated D-11581 to a fully populated D-11581. *The value of R13 will vary between 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms) and 10Kohms. If R14 and R15 are 10Kohms, then R13 should be 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms). If R14 and R15 are 20Kohms, then R13 should be 10Kohms.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem11PSPreBigGuns.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Pre-Taxi Power/Regulator Board. This power supply has had the header pins replaced and the 5V filter cap at C10 replaced. Note that this board has the 20A fuse for the GI still installed. This indicates that it is an early System 7 board. The fuse and it&#039;s holder should be replaced by a wire in all System 9 and 11 games]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_B.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply - Revision B (Pinbot)  Note that the top fuse holder just below the large 15000uF capacitor is broken on the left side]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These power supplies use obsolete parts at Q1 (SDS-201) and Q3 (SDS-202). The PCB print was used from Black Knight through Swords of Fury, with slight modifications. Up until and including Fire!, Q1 and Q3 were the obsolete SDS-201 and SDS-202. Starting with some Fire!, the board uses an MJE15030 at Q1 and an MJE15031 at Q3. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-201 at Q1 may be &amp;quot;6557&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9057S&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-202 at Q3 may be &amp;quot;MDS60&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9058S&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlyWMSPowerSupplyTraceRoutingErrorCloseUpAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of the corrected trace routing error on a Fire! power supply board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply (High Speed) Schematics.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There was a trace routing error on the original Fire! power supply pcbs. WMS cut the trace and used a jumper to correct the error. This error was corrected in the PCB layout at the start of &amp;quot;Big Guns&amp;quot; game production.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_E.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS Power Supply - Revision E (Cyclone)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Big Guns and games after, the solenoid and lamp power power sections were no longer stuffed because they were relocated to the Aux Power board. The GI relay is also missing on these boards because discrete GI relay boards were placed under the playfield and/or behind the backbox lamp insert.  By doing this, specific GI strings could be turned on/off versus &amp;quot;all or none&amp;quot; of the general illumination.  This later board has the fuses only for display and 5V power. In a pinch, the unstuffed parts could be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Big Guns, 2 100mA (1/10A) SB fuses are installed just to the left of the power supply in the backbox. These fuses protect the +100V and -100V circuits against shorts. Not all games used 1/10A slo-blo fuses. Some games used 1/8ASB fuses instead. This may have been due to 1/8ASB fuses being more readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics for this power supply also list part numbers MPSD52 and MPSD02. The equivalent part number for an MPSD52 is a 2N5401. The equivalent part number for an MPSD02 is a 2N5551.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Regulator Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSPSSchematic1503015031.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Schematics for Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used from Taxi thru the remainder of the System 11 game production. &lt;br /&gt;
Note that Taxi used an early revision of the board. The placement of some of the resistors and zener diodes in the HV section of that board is different from later boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===50V Flipper Power Supply Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Williams50VPowerSupply.jpg|300px|thumb|left|50VDC power supply as used in System 11 (nothing) and 11A games (C-9939).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games all used the 50V power supply board as pictured at left. This simple board takes 48VAC from the transformer secondary and uses a 35A/400V bridge rectifier to produce about 50VDC. The voltage is smoothed somewhat by a 100uf electrolytic capacitor. The transformer secondary is protected from a short in the bridge rectifier by either a 4ASB or a 5ASB fuse. Be sure to consult the manual for your game for the proper fuse value. Never overfuse a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Power Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
At least two different revisions of the Aux Power Board were used in System 11B/11C games, pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Auxiliary Power Board from Space Station (D-11813-552)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 Power.JPG|400px|thumb|center|Auxiliary Power Board from Earthshaker (D-12247-568)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Interconnect Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Interconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Backbox Interconnect Board from Space Station]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Lamp Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Earthshaker]]&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board was essentially designed for ease of manufacturing and assembly.  When Williams ultimately settled on using the same unit in all games, (give or take some parts here or there), modularity was apparent too.  There was no longer a need to build complex, custom wiring harnesses between the CPU / driver board, backbox insert, and playfield.  The interconnect board remedied this issue.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanzaiRunInterconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Banzai Run]]Although the first four System 11B games, which include Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone use some form of an interconnect board, it wasn&#039;t until Swords of Fury when the interconnect board was used as a standard for the remaining System 11 games.  The interconnect for Banzai Run (shown on the right) is completely different from anything else used by any game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board used in Swords of Fury uses a different part number, D-12185-559, compared to later System 11 games that used part number D-12313-x (x denotes the game&#039;s model number). They are not interchangable. Swords of Fury and Taxi had lane change switches still mounted on the cabinet. With later games lane change switches were removed and two optocouplers at position U2 and U3 (connected to the switch returns) were added to the board. The circuit is essentially the same as was used in early WPC games and enabled elimination of problematic physical lane change switches from the game. Starting with Jokerz, the third coupler at position U1 is used by the game software to check if the A/C relay on the aux power board is working.  U1 transmits information back to the MPU as switch 2 on the switch matrix, provided that the A/C has energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The early versions of the interconnect board were located on the left side of the backbox and positioned vertically.  The more common interconnect boards were located in the backbox positioned horizontally, just below the CPU board.  The later board passes the following circuits:&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp general illumination circuits&lt;br /&gt;
*flipper power and ground&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp columns and rows&lt;br /&gt;
*switch columns and rows &lt;br /&gt;
*flash lamp power&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What differentiates the board from game to game are the resistor values used for the flash lamp power circuits.  In some cases, some of the resistors are left unpopulated and / or a zero ohm jumper is installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (C-8363)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 SS Sorc Master Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|C-8363 Early System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This is the same master display that is used on all System 6A and System 7 games and is used on most System 9 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (D-10749)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10749.jpg|300px|thumb|left|D-10749 Late System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This master display board was introduced during the System 9 run and is mostly found in some of the later Comets that were manufactured.  The major difference between this master display board (D-10749) and the previous master display board (C-8363) is the D-10749 board replaced the card-edge connectors used on the C-8363 with pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any System 9 machine that is wired with card-edge connectors to use a C-8363 master display board can be converted to use a D-10749 master display board by re-wiring to use pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the mapping of the connectors &amp;amp; pins from a C-8363 to a D-10749 to aid in this conversion:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!D-10749 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!C-8363 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 16&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-14&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 15&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-16&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 14&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-17&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 13&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-13&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 12&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-12&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 11&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-15&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-7&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-8&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 10&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 9&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 8&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 7&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-11&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 6&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-10&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 5&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 3&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-7&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-8&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 1&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-1&lt;br /&gt;
|D1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-2&lt;br /&gt;
|C1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-3&lt;br /&gt;
|B1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-4&lt;br /&gt;
|A1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-5&lt;br /&gt;
|D2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-6&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-7&lt;br /&gt;
|C2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-8&lt;br /&gt;
|B2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-9&lt;br /&gt;
|A2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-10&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-18&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-11&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-1&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-2&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-3&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-4&lt;br /&gt;
| +100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-5&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C.&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-6&lt;br /&gt;
| +5 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-1&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C. on D-10749&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 (Discrete Displays High Speed to Pin Bot and Banzai Run)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10877.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-10877WithAlternate7180.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|System 11 Master Display Driver Board with UDN7180 &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot;. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Aaron Gross&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right shows &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot; that replace UDN7180 chips, which were beginning to be become expensive and harder to obtain during the production run. The daughter cards use discrete transistors, much the same way as one version of the older System 3-6 Master Display Panel did. U9, U12, U13, and U14, originally UDN7180s, have been replaced on this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A (Millionaire / Early F-14)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11414-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A Millionaire Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB actually came out of an early F-14 where they were recycled. Millionaire had it fully populated with additional lamp covers. The mounting brackets for the later D-11610 display changed so if you get a replacement for your F-14 first check which one is used in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A/B (F-14 to Swords of Fury)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11610.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A/B 4 7 Digit Segmented Displays Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (Taxi and Police Force)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-2.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B Display Driver Board D-12232-2 for 2 16 digit segmented displays + one external connector for a 7 digit display]]&lt;br /&gt;
Taxi and Police Force uses a D-12232-2 master display with J4 ribbon connector stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Taxi and Police Force. You would need to add U3 (6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connector J4. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (all other WMS 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12232.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B/C Display Driver Board D-12232-1 for 2 16 digit displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11C (Riverboat Gamber)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-3.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C Display Driver Board D-12232-3 for 2 16 digit displays and 2 connectors for 7 digit jackpot displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
Riverboat Gambler uses a D-12232-3 master display with all ribbon connectors stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Riverboat Gambler. You would need to add U3 and U4 (both a 6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connectors J4 and J6. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display. This display can also be used in Police Force and Taxi.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B/C (all Bally 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Bally-L16-Display.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally left side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12502-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally right side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Other Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Overlay Board (C-13287)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlWindSoundOverlayBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams &amp;quot;C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board&amp;quot; as found in WhirlWind.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This relatively simple board was used on Whirlwind only to accommodate 5 additional solenoids (flashers or motors). The board logically sits between the System 11 MPU and the sound board, intercepting data normally sent directly to the sound board, and acting on that data only when specific codes are commanded. The board also relays data not specifically intended for it, on to the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Current Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS C-12493 High Current Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-12493 High Current Driver Board from Earthshaker]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The high current driver board was used on Earthshaker to drive the shaker motor. It was used on several other Bally/Williams WPC games while designated different part numbers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Space Station Opto Position Board (C-11872)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpaceStationOptoBoardC-11872.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-11872 Space Station Opto Positioner PC Board Assembly]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is unique to Space Station. The &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; at Q1 and Q2 (both 2N3906s) in the picture at left are clear silicone caulk used to dampen vibration on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Remotely Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Flasher Board Pinbot.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Flash Lamp Resistor Board (from Pinbot)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The earlier design of flash lamp resistor board was mounted under the playfield within in the vicinity of the flash lamp circuit(s) that were powered by it.  Each board had a maximum of 4 power resistors (2 per flash lamp circuit).  The higher resistance resistor is 330 ohm 7 watt, while the lower resistance resistor is 5 ohm 10 watt.  The purpose of the larger value resistor is to keep the flash lamp powered with minimal voltage.  This keeps the flash lamp filament &amp;quot;warm&amp;quot;, which puts less of a strain on the flash lamp.  In turn, it is supposed to extend the life of the flash lamp. The smaller value resistor is used as a current limiting resistor which allows the solenoid voltage to be supplied to power the flash lamp.  By powering the flash lamps with solenoid voltage, it eliminates the need for an additional, dedicated secondary transformer winding. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Centrally Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px heights=380px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Flash Lamp Resistor Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Big Guns Resistor Board.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-557(Big Guns)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:CycloneBigGunsFlashlampBoardD-11814-564.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-564 (Cyclone)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS_Space_Station_Resistor_Board_D-11814-552.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-552(Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were used on early System 11B games prior to the use of the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.  The board is located in a very awkward location.  It is screwed to the back of the lower cabinet. Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone all have this board in this location.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistors on the board &amp;quot;eat current&amp;quot; (limit current) since the 13V #89 flash lamps are wired to coil voltage (about 38VDC). When implementing this board, Williams chose to change the wire colors as the circuit passes through the board. Combined with the generally poor Williams System 11 documentation, this makes it tough to track down problems with non-working flash lamps. On the plus side, the wire wound cement resistors on the board do not fail often, probably due to the location of the board (resistor boards located under the playfield have high resistor failure rates due to heat and vibration).  However, they obviously can fail. If there is power at the flash lamp, but grounding the flash lamp transistor does not light the lamp, the associated drive transistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were abandoned after Space Station.  Flash lamp circuits and resistors became integrated into the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====A/C Relay====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early AC Relay.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A/C relay board (early design ie. F-14, Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A/C relay placed on aux power driver board starting with 11B games (later design)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Road Kings, System 11 games make use of what is referred to as an A/C relay.  The purpose of the A/C relay was to drive twice the amount of coils and flashers by using half the amount of drive transistors.  This process is commonly referred to as &amp;quot;multiplexing&amp;quot;.  Typically, if the A/C relay was at rest, the &amp;quot;A side&amp;quot; solenoids would engage.  When the A/C relay was powered, the &amp;quot;C side&amp;quot; flashers would engage. However, there were sometimes solenoids multiplexed with other solenoids.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, High Speed, which does not use an A/C relay, uses 8 discrete drive transistors to drive solenoids / flashers 1-8.  Pinbot, which does use an A/C relay, uses the same 8 discrete transistors to drive solenoids / flashers.  However, a total of 16 solenoids and flashers (A side and C side) are driven.  By employing the use of an A/C relay, the System 11 MPU / driver board could be used for many more years without a &amp;quot;drastic&amp;quot; redesign.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Initially, the A/C relay was located on a small circuit board under the playfield for System 11/11A games.  Likewise, this A/C relay board did not have Molex header connections.  Wires were directly soldered to the circuit board.  Once the Auxiliary Power Driver Board was introduced with the System 11B platform (starting with Big Guns), the A/C relay was moved to this board for all subsequent System 11B/11C games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the example of the A/C relay shown in the pic on the left, the only way to discern that the A/C relay is the highlighted relay board is due to the wire colors soldered to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode Board for Multiplexed Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board. As Found.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diode board as found mounted to the bottom of the playfield (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Diode board from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diodes from diode board moved to aux power driver board starting with 11B games]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Motor Control Board (D-12045)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12045.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams &amp;quot;D-12045&amp;quot; as found in Cyclone, Jokerz!, Riverboat Gambler and Diner.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in 4 Williams Games&lt;br /&gt;
* Cyclone ... for the random award wheel&lt;br /&gt;
* Jokerz! ... for draw poker (the wheel has various cards pictured on it), &lt;br /&gt;
* Riverboat Gambler ... for the backbox roulette wheel and&lt;br /&gt;
* Diner ... for the clock hands count time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board uses a single U-opto to detect the wheel at the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; position. The MPU implements an &amp;quot;open loop control system&amp;quot; stepping the motor to the desired position while assuming that each step was successful. The game flags an issue with the PCB/motor assembly when the software thinks that the wheel should be at the home position but the opto beam hasn&#039;t been broken by the opto interrupter on the back of the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Coils===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Flippers.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Serial wound flipper coils as seen on earlier (pre F-14 Tomcat) System 11 / 11A games (pic from Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Placeholder for Parallel wound flipper coils as seen on later (post F-14 Tomcat) System 11A/B/C games (pic from xxxx)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Parallel_Wound_Flippers.jpg|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for parallel wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later games (starting with F-14 Tomcat) used parallel wound coils, which have 2 diodes on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games use different parallel wound flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application.  Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |System 11 Flipper Coils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Color&lt;br /&gt;
!Strength&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11753 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weakest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11722 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weaker ||24-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11630 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Standard ||23-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11629 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Strongest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CoinDoorButtons.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Example System 11 Coin Door Buttons. The Advance button is missing it&#039;s black cap, and yes...that is a bit of soft drink spooge on the bracket.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The coin door buttons for system 9 and 11 games are shown at right. The function of the three buttons is (from left to right in the picture)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset High Score to Date&lt;br /&gt;
*Auto Up/Manual Down&lt;br /&gt;
*Advance&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Function of the Reset High Score to Date is self explanatory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Auto Up/Manual Down (AUMD) button is interpreted by the game software in multiple ways. Starting from attract mode, if the AUMD switch is up, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter audits and adjustments mode. If the AUMD switch is down, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter diagnostic mode. With the AUMD button in the up position during many of the diagnostic tests, the next step in the test will be automatically entered. For example, display test will display each digit on the display in turn. Coil test will advance through each coil. A particular step of the test may be paused on by pressing the AUMD button down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Advance switch moves the diagnostic, audit, or adjustment to the next step (or previous step if the AUMD button is down, except in diagnostic mode).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When in adjustments mode, the credit button is used to zero, turn off, or turn on features.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; One of the adjustment settings (adjustment 69 on High Speed for example) can be used to clear all of the game audits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of all diagnostic tests, the game will enter audits next, and then adjustments.  To exit diagnostics, audits, and / or adjustments, either advance until the last adjustment, or simply turn the machine off.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Transformer Power Selection Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 11 Power Selection Jumpers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys11 Transformer Power Selection.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Typical power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 115VAC (from Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11European220VSelection.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;European power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 220VAC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;1 - Black, 4 - White, 3/6 - Orange.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;Image courtesy of Chuck Sanderson&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Sporadic Problems in General - System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Headers.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Cracked Header Joints and Headers cut too deeply by factory on System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the previous Williams platforms, the System 9 platform is prone to cracked solder joints on the header pins.  Likewise, Williams&#039; board manufacturers had some tendencies to cut the header pins too short on the solder side.  By cutting the pins too short, the cuts partially go through the solder meniscus.  Cutting through the solder meniscus makes a solder joint less reliable, and it may prematurely fail over time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By having cracked solder joints and / or cut solder meniscus, sporadic issues may occur.  To resolve a cracked solder joint issue, the best approach is to completely remove the old solder, and add new solder to the joint.  Due to dirt and contaminants, simply adding solder to the existing joint is not sufficient.  If the header pins are cut too short, an attempt to remove the solder and new solder can be made.  However, in some instances the only resolution is to replace the header pin connector.  It is recommended to use a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-79.asp high quality replacement header].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Rectifier Fuses====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Fuses_Added_Before_Lamp_Solenoid_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AdditionalFuses.jpg|right|thumb|400px|The updated schematic (from High Speed) showing placement of additional transformer secondary fusing for solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A design flaw carried over from the earlier systems was the lack of fuses between the transformer secondary and the bridge rectifiers used for solenoid and controlled lamp power.  In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game should blow. But that is not always the case. If the primary power fuse fails to blow, the wiring between the transformer secondary and the bridge becomes the fuse. The resulting melted wiring is not pretty!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For games before Big Guns, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp fuse installed (Williams opted to use an 8A normal blo, while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses). For games after Big Guns, an 8A normal blo fuse is already present between the transformer secondary and the controlled lamp bridge. As for the solenoid bridge, the addition of the auxiliary power driver board added fusing to protect this circuit. The 25V and 50V solenoid bridges were added to this board. Both bridges are fused with 4A slo-blo fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem in the Inkochnito Bridge Board.&lt;br /&gt;
Surf on over to http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate to the 12 position wafer connection====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-WMS-System11PSCN1Alternative.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The severely burned wafer connector at Data East equivalent of J1 here has been replaced with parts currently available. Pins 5 and 8 are not populated as those connections are not used.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 position &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector (CN1 or J1 for Williams games), can be replaced with currently available parts, shown at left. The original &amp;quot;wafers&amp;quot; are difficult to find and pricey.&lt;br /&gt;
Part number for the alternate connector is Molex 03-09-2121 or 03-09-2122. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply Missing 5v Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
If an aftermarket Rottendog WDP011C power supply is missing 5v, and other common causes of a missing voltage have been ruled out, then it&#039;s likely that the 5v regulator at U191 has failed. An available replacement is the Texas Instruments PTR08060 5v regulator from [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/PTR08060WVD Mouser] or [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/PTR08060WVD/1698955 Digikey].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply - Big Guns &amp;amp; Cyclone GI Comes On, Game Doesn&#039;t Boot====&lt;br /&gt;
If using the now obsolete Rottendog WDP011A power supply for Williams Cyclone or Big Guns, the +12v jumper may have to be moved from the bottom jumper location to the top. If a Rottendog equipped Big Guns or Cyclone turns on the GI lights, but the game doesn&#039;t boot, (only the 5v light on the CPU is lit), this is most likely the reason.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 MPU Jumpers===&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, jumpers on the MPU board do not require modification. The default configuration works for all System 11 game ROMs. However, there are 5 exceptions as follows...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W7 - Language Select Jumper&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
W7 is used only in games up to Cyclone. Games with 16 digit alphanumeric displays do not use this jumper. If installed, the game automatically reverts to English after losing the content of the RAM. If a different language is preferred, the &amp;quot;adjustments&amp;quot; menu provides an option to change the default language. Only a few early System 11 game ROMs contained multiple languages. For these games, if W7 is removed, the game generally defaults to German text. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games used language specific ROMs at U26 and U27.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W16 and W17 - Hitachi CPU select&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Hitachi6802.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A Hitachi processor, installed at U15, with W16 cut (lower right of pic)]]&lt;br /&gt;
The W16 jumper, on original System 11 boards, is in a different location and used for backwards compatibility with system 9 boards. There is no need to change it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 11A and later boards:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*W16 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U15, the CPU responsible for most game operation.&lt;br /&gt;
*W17 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U24, the CPU for the sound subsystem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These two jumpers are used to indicate the manufacturer of the 6802/6808 microprocessor since the clock circuit of Hitachi microprocessors is different from the clock circuit of other manufacturers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If U15 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W16. &lt;br /&gt;
If U24 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W17.&lt;br /&gt;
Otherwise, W16 and W17 should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Hitachi microprocessor can be used in System 9 and System 11 (nothing) MPU boards by simply lifting pin 38 out of the socket. Cutting the pin is not recommended since there may be need for that IC in another board. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W5/W6 and W18/W19 - RAM Type Select ONLY FOR SYSTEM 11B AND 11C&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C MPU boards provide the ability to use either a 6116 or a 6264 RAM at locations U25 and U23 (sound subsystem).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U25&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W5, remove W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W5, install W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U23 (sound subsystem)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W19, remove W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W19, install W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Removing both W5 and W6 from a System ll (nothing) MPU or from a System 11A MPU prevents the switch matrix circuitry from working correctly. One instance of this being done resulted in all switches reporting closure, counting backwards from 64 to 1 while in switch level test. Reference [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-switch-levels-all-active &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;this&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;] PinSide thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
====Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSClockandE.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|A scope trace of the 4Mhz crystal input at pin 39 of the microprocessor (blue), and &amp;quot;E&amp;quot;, the external clock at pin 37 of the microprocessor (amber)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Following is an ordered, disciplined process for reanimating a dead MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Inspect for Alkaline Corrosion. Abate all corrosion properly before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test for valid 5/12/-12VDC power to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify correct jumpers are installed (or not installed) for Hitachi 6802/8 processors. More info [[Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11_MPU_Jumpers|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
#Note and address any error messages displayed upon boot (if any).&lt;br /&gt;
#Validate the ROM images.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test socketed chips in a known working board or chip tester.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (4Mhz) clock signal to the 6802/8 processor at pin 39.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (1Mhz) external clock signal at pin 37 of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the reset circuitry is providing a valid &amp;quot;low and then high&amp;quot; reset signal at pin 40 of the 6802/8. Note that replacing the original reset circuitry with a modern reset generator will lengthen the time until the signal transitions to high. This is normal, and helps with debugging as the signal can be seen much easier.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to test for activity on the IRQ (pin 4), Address and Data pins of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to ensure that the following bus buffer chips are correctly mirroring the input signals to the output signals:&lt;br /&gt;
##System 9: U1, U2 and U3 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U23 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
##System 11: U11 and U13 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U16 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Leon&#039;s test ROM to ensure that each 6821 PIA is receiving the correct chip select and data to produce valid outputs at pins 2 through 17. More information regarding use of Leon&#039;s test ROM can be found [[Leon_Borre_Williams_System_9_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]]for System 9 and [[Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]] for System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Normal Game Boot Behavior====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Boot Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for System 9 is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the diagnostic display on the MPU. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will light during boot up, and continue to stay lit, as long as the game is on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Diagnostic7Segment.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 11(nothing) MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with a 7-segment display on the MPU is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the display. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; does not go away. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will continue to be displayed under normal boot conditions.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DiagnosticLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs as found on a System 11A, 11B, and 11C MPUs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with 3 LEDs instead of the 7-segment display on the MPU is for the &amp;quot;+5 VDC&amp;quot; LED to light first and stay on, then a split second later, the blanking LED will light and stay on. At the same time that the blanking LED lights, the diagnostic LED will begin to blink at a fairly rapid pace with a 50% duty cycle (equal durations of the LED being on then off). The blanking LED will continue to remain on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LEDDiagnosticsIn7SegmentGame.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs driven by game software expecting a 7-segment display as in High Speed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 11 MPU with 3 LEDs is installed in a game whose original board contained the 7-segment LED diagnostic display first introduced with the System 7 board set, the status of the 3 LEDs won&#039;t help much. The game software is attempting to display a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; (assuming your game boots correctly) on a 7-segment display. Since the board contains just the three LEDs, the MPU circuitry merely lights all three LEDs as shown in the picture at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====MPU Boot Error Codes====&lt;br /&gt;
MPUs used in System 9 and 11(nothing) games display a code on a 7-segment display if an error is detected during boot. MPUs used in System 11A, 11B, and 11C games use the Diagnostic LED to blink a &amp;quot;codes&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 9 MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U18 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6808 processor&#039;s ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Game ROM 2 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal stuck, coin door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or the U18 CMOS RAM faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;System failure. Occasionally, the following components can contribute to this problem: U21 (4MhZ crystal), components in the IRQ circuit, broken leads or failed C9 (22uF) in the reset section, or loosely seated ICs on the CPU board. Note that boot code &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; is the hardware default and characteristic of the CPU &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; signal not complying with the proper low-to-high spec at pin 40.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game is locked up, there may be a bad power supply.  The 5 volt logic supply is the first one to check.  Then, check the 12 volt supply, which is used to reset the CPU chip.  Test for both DC (correct voltages) and AC (too much ripple on the DC circuit).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11(nothing) Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 11(nothing) MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;These error codes assume that either High Speed, Grand Lizard, or Road Kings ROMs are installed since those were the only three games shipped with this version of the MPU board containing the 7-segment display. Later System 11 MPU boards replace the 7-segment display with 3 discrete LEDs that indicate 5V presence, diagnostics execution, and blanking status. While the System 11(nothing) MPU board works fine with other/later game ROMs, the 7-segment display with later game ROMs doesn&#039;t provide useful information other than some confidence that the software is running correctly. With later game ROMs installed and the MPU booting properly, the 7-segment display will appear to alternate rapidly between &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; (as fast as the &amp;quot;Diagnostics&amp;quot; LED would be flashing in a System 11A through 11C MPU board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U25 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6802 processors ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;, or the coin door is closed, or the memory protect circuit is faulty, or the CMOS RAM at U25 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;General system failure. Check the 5VDC power supply as well as the integrity of game ROM 2 at U26.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A zero displayed during Memory Chip Test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is NOT functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11A, 11B, 11C games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the number of blinks of the DIAGNOSTIC LED, the error message that might be displayed, and the explanation (Source: Williams System 11A game manual. with embellishment).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating an MPU indicating a U10 failure (8 blinks) can be found [https://youtu.be/Rhho5nO3YLU &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Message&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;no message || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U25 RAM FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;The RAM at U25 could not be used properly. This means that the RAM failed a read/write test at power up.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;The game will remain in the current state and no other tests are performed until the game is turned off, then back on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;MEM. PROT. FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;This message means that either:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;a) the Coin Door may be shut,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;b) the Memory Protect Switch may be stuck in the ON position,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;c) the memory protect logic is protecting the memory, or&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;d) a U25 RAM failure is occurring.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U51 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U51 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U38 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U38 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U41 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U41 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U42 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U42 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U54 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U54 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U10 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U10 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;IRQ FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The interrupt request line is not working normally. It may be missing, stuck, too fast, or too slow.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 failed checksum (test 11 is skipped).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 failed checksum.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of the above failures (except #9) may mean that the device has failed but it may also mean that the 6802 microprocessor is unable to communicate adequately or properly with the device. For example, if the CPU is attempting to checksum the game ROM at U27, but one of the 8 data lines leading to U27 has been severed, the wrong data will be received by the microprocessor and the checksum test will fail even though the ROM is perfectly fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An U25 RAM failure can occur without actual 6116 RAM failure.  One of the most common reasons why U25 RAM failure occurs is lack of power to the RAM chip.  If the D1, 1N5817, diode shorts open, logic power will no longer have a pathway to the U25 RAM.  However, if the D2, 1N4148, blocking diode is fine, and the battery holder and batteries are fine, power will be retained by the U25 RAM.  Although, the batteries will die prematurely if D1 has shorted.  Another reason why U25 is no longer powered by the +5VDC logic power is due to a severed trace either caused by a blunt object or battery corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An interesting side effect to the U25 RAM failure blink code is that the blanking LED will blink 10 times after the single blink from the diagnostic LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== U51, U27, and possibly other boot message causes =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SocketWornOut.jpg|300px|thumb|left|This OEM System 11 MPU socket is tired, worn out, and no longer provided solid contact with the ROM chip legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 MPUs booting with error codes, blinks, or messages on the display may need new sockets for the game ROM(s). In the picture at left, it&#039;s easy to see light right through the socket holes (note the brown background vs the white background). The metal female connections have fatigued over time and are no longer providing a solid mechanical connection to the ROM chip legs. Removal and replacement with a quality dual wipe or machine pin socket is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This situation can cause a wide variety of boot problems including complete failure to boot, &amp;quot;U27 ROM failure&amp;quot; message, &amp;quot;U51 failure&amp;quot; message, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, the root cause could be due to many other reasons. The fairly complicated chip select logic outlined on sheet 4 of the System 11 MPU schematics could be the cause. The best way to attack the problem is with a logic probe, ensuring that the various chip select gates are yielding the intended logic states.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Five &amp;quot;Knocks&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes when turning a system 11 game on, the knocker will fire 5 times, causing most folks to wonder, &amp;quot;what the hey&amp;quot;?. All that knocking is designed to call the operators attention to a potential switch issue. Like the &amp;quot;credit dot&amp;quot; in later Williams games, including System 11 games that support the dot character, these 5 knocks mean that the game hasn&#039;t detected the closure of a particular switch (or switches) in a certain number of games. A message will be displayed indicating which switch or switches to examine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Usually, this is an indication of a failed switch. Most switches get closed during the normal course of game play, long before the game&#039;s software counts up to the limit of &amp;quot;games played without closing each switch&amp;quot; and issues this indication. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this issue, use the coin door diagnostic panel buttons to enter switch edge test. Manually close the switch. If a switch closure is indicated, either normal game play failed to close the switch (you&#039;re not a very good player), or the switch is dirty. Closing a switch with your finger is different than closing a switch with a ball. Your finger generally pushes more firmly on the switch contacts. Clean the switch by dragging an old business card or piece of paper between the switch contacts while pinching the switch blades together with your fingers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Caution: do not attempt to adjust switches with anything metal while the game is turned on. You will eventually short coil or lamp power to the switch matrix, damaging the MPUs switch matrix circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If closing the switch manually doesn&#039;t register in switch edge test, see the &amp;quot;switch problems&amp;quot; section of this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AdjustFailureMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door closed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message seen in the picture at left occurs when the game software can&#039;t make sense of the information contained in the battery backed RAM at U25. This could be because the RAM has failed, but this is unlikely. The vastly more common reason is that battery backup power has been interrupted to the games battery backed RAM because either the batteries are not installed, dead, or dying. Hopefully, they haven&#039;t made a mess of the board by leaking alkaline. See below. &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; is displayed under these conditions when the coin door is closed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that on some games (not certain if all) which use two 16-digit alpha-numeric displays, the message displayed will actually read &amp;quot;AJSTMENT FAILURE&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FactorySettingMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door open.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the coin door is open under these conditions, the message &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; is displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Testing for Battery Backup Power at the RAM =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U25_Ram_Test.jpg|300px|thumb|right|System 11: Game off. Meter set to DC volts. Black lead on game ground. Red lead on RAM pin 24.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing for power at the RAM chip is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The CMOS RAM chip is located at U18 for System 9 and U25 for System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Set DMM to DC volts (or on less than 20V if not using an auto-ranging meter)&lt;br /&gt;
#Game off&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead on backbox ground&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on pin 24 of the RAM as shown at right&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three AA batteries normally provide 4.5VDC. If you are reading some voltage, but not quite 4.5VDC, the batteries need to be replaced...and don&#039;t forget to move them off of the MPU board while you are at it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other causes for low or no battery backup power to the RAM chip are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode at D3 for System 9 or D2 for System 11 - This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC source from &amp;quot;charging&amp;quot; the alkaline batteries. This diode is a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode at D2 for System 9 or D1 for System 11 - This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC battery backup power from powering parts of the board other than the RAM chip. In this case, the batteries will deplete rapidly. This diode is a 1N5817.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 9 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U41, U9, the game ROMs, and one or more 6821s.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 11 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U11, U31, U34, U35, U36, U44, the game ROMs, and possibly the 6821s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating the repair of a System 9 MPU that was damaged in this way can be found [https://youtu.be/uoYKRJFnm-I &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:PinSideLogo.png]] An excellent disciplined approach to repairing a System 11 MPU damaged in this way can be found on PinSide [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-fried-my-system-11-cpu-board-now-what#post-7564730 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 9 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Yikes! What a pity...]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3 AA batteries used to retain settings across power cycles to a location far away from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; in the credit/match display is seen when the game is turned on, the game is in audit mode versus attract mode.  Below are several reasons why the game has defaulted to audit mode.&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing.&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the U18 (5517-2) RAM. Check pin 24 of U18 for approximately 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v with the power off.  Lack of battery backup power could also be due to an open D3 (1N4148) blocking diode.  This diode is used to keep the CPU&#039;s logic power from charging the batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking diode D2 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There are other problems, such as a faulty 5517-2 RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries will not allow a game to boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on.  It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores.  However, a System 9 game will boot, and is still playable with the lack of batteries.  To complete the boot sequence into attract mode, open the coin door, switch the game off, and then quickly back on. The game should leave audit mode, and go into attract mode.  Credits would need to be added from the coin door, and if necessary, settings would need to be changed before starting a game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea.  You can easily remove the battery pack from the board.  Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement.  If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position.  Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead.  This will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D3 on the MPU board fails.  Keep in mind that adding a secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory by .5 to .7 volts (the typical voltage drop across a diode) if D3 is still good.  Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 remote bat.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 9 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board.  All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; are somewhat common.  Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save you some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 D2 D3.JPG|300px|thumb|left|D2 and D3 Diodes Highlighted on a Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D3 blocking diode.  An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective.  Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack.  This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on.  Alkaline batteries do not like being charged.  They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly).  In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged.  Testing the D3 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out.  When in doubt, replace the D3 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack.  Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5517-2 RAM memory, if D3 is still good.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 11 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RemoteBatteryHolderSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A remote battery holder installed on a System 11 MPU. The purple wire is positive.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Installing NVRAM instead of batteries ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM DIP.JPG|300px|thumb|left|RAMTRON DIP NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Cyclone)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM SMT Adapter.JPG|300px|thumb|right|SMT adapted NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Transporter The Rescue)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like most other pinball mpu boards, the battery-backed RAM can be replaced with a non-volatile memory RAM (NVRAM).  Replacement RAM that can replace existing 6116 or a 6264 SRAM will be needed.  DIP versions are becoming scarce, but there are other solutions available that use surface mount equivalents on a small circuit board that plug into the RAM&#039;s socket.  Unfortunately, U25 is soldered in on System 11 boards from the factory, and would need to be removed to replace with NVRAM.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If installing any version of 6264 NVRAM on an 11B or 11C board, jumper W5 (located just above U25) needs to be moved to jumper W6.  This jumper has a completely different purpose on 11 and 11A boards.  6116 NVRAM will have to be used with 11 and 11A boards, or else modification with wire wrap will be necessary.  If 6116 NVRAM is used on 11B or 11C boards, jumper W5 does not have to be chaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several vendors who sell surface mount NVRAM on an adapter board.  The adapter in the picture shown on the right was purchased from [http://www.pinitech.com/products/cat_memory.php Pinitech].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
It has been documented that some variants of DIP NVRAM may need to have diode D1 replaced with a jumper or jumped around the diode, in order for the game to boot successfully.  D1, a 1n5817 diode, has a very low forward voltage drop (about 0.2 volts) vs. the normal 0.4-0.6 volts most other diodes have.  If replacing U25 with the memory RAM, some memory RAM will not unlock and allow writes until the voltage is 4.8 volts or so.  The 1n5817 D1 diode is just enough to prevent some memory RAMs from allowing writes.  To solve this, solder a jumper wire around the D1 terminals, or remove D1 entirely and replace with a jumper.  Surface mounted NVRAM on an adapter board is not susceptible to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing a Memory Capacitor Instead of Batteries====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11B Mem Cap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Memory Capacitor Added to a System 11B MPU Board.  The circled areas show an added jumper for the cap&#039;s negative terminal to ground and a jumper added in place of the blocking diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SuperCapInstalled.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method of adding a SuperCap. This style cap has two leads on the bottom of the cap. The negative lead of the cap is connected to battery ground via the red jumper wire. The necessary jumper across D2 is circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor. In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is greatly reduced compared to a rechargeable battery. When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor. When the game is turned off (this is where the memory cap slightly differs than a rechargeable battery) the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time. Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again. If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a memory cap, two things will have to be done. It will be necessary to add a jumper to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground or positive lead to the non-banded side of the blocking diode. The picture to the left shows a jumper added to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 11B MPU board. Installation on System 11, 11A, and 11C boards is similarly performed.  Secondly, the 1N4148 blocking diode (D2) will have to be removed, and replaced by current limiting resistor.  A value from 100 ohms to 270 ohms will work.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, it is a good idea to leave the game on for 15-20 minutes to allow the game to initially charge the capacitor to full capacity. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes to allow the cap to recharge is a good idea.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Both photos show a jumper installed in place of the blocking diode.  It is recommended that a limiting resistor be installed instead.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:  It has been determined that memory capacitors are not the most effective way to retain memory on System 11 games, if the game will not be turned on for long lengths of time.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MPUDelicateTraces.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of the delicate traces under the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. Luckily, these cleaned up nicely.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CorrosionCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Closeup of traces under the battery holder. Corrosion (darkened spots) has invaded beneath the solder mask (green coating) and is beginning to eat away at the copper traces.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen at left, the traces on System 11 MPUs are very small. Not much alkaline damage is required to eat completely through these delicate traces. Unfortunately, there are a great many of these traces under the battery holder, and in a very vulnerable position to alkaline damage. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to the left of the battery holder is the reset section of the MPU. That section is, on balance, much easier to repair than the delicate traces under the battery holder and at the 6821 PIAs immediately under the battery holder.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The advice often dispensed to deal with alkaline corrosion is to scrub the affected area with an acid such as vinegar, rinse with water, and then rinse again with isopropyl alcohol. This might work for light surface alkaline corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, often the alkaline will eat into traces beneath the solder mask or beneath chips. This dictates desoldering affected chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces. The alkaline interacts chemically with the solder making it very difficult to heat. Desoldering from the (presumably undamaged) back side of the board is much easier. Scuffing the alkaline damaged solder with a wire brush to remove the surface layer of damage is also helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once all damaged components have been removed, sand the affected area carefully with your choice of fine grit sandpaper. 220 grit works well. The objective is to remove the corrosion completely without destroying additional traces. All corroded areas must be addressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, rebuild traces as necessary. Corrosion tends to sever traces where the trace meets the solder pad of a part. Strong magnification and bright lighting helps. Either tin or conformal coat the bare copper and then reinstall parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11AlkalineDamage-1-Annotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Another closeup of the delicate traces near the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. These traces are too far gone for a repair to be considered reliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingSRCPartsSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A 9 pin, 4.7K bussed resistor network replacing SRC5. Pin 1 is on the right]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AlkalineCorrosion.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of alkaline damage that has crept under the solder mask (the darker traces). Eventually, this corrosion will eat completely through the trace, making the board unreliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TypicalSRC.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The OEM resistor/capacitor network.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the top of the board are a few &amp;quot;SRC&amp;quot; parts. These are 10 pin resistor/capacitor SIPs. The OEM part connects each driver line to a 4.7Kohm pull-up resistor connected to 5VDC. This guarantees that the signal is held at logic high until the PIA grounds the signal. The OEM part also connects each driver line to a high frequency noise filter capacitor (470pf). These parts are no longer available. A completely acceptable substitute is a 9 pin bussed, 8 resistor network (4.7Kohms) at positions SRC1 - SRC5 and SRC7 - SRC9. This part provides the pull-up resistor. In practice, the high frequency filter capacitor does not impact the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The part is installed as shown in the picture at right, with pin 1 of the part connected to the right side which is labeled pin 1 in the board silkscreen. A 10 pin (9 bussed resistors) part may be used ONLY if the left most pin is clipped and not connected to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An image of the original OEM part is shown at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another example of alkaline corrosion can be seen in the picture on the left. This damage can be cleaned up, retinned, and the board placed back in service.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blanking Signal Stuck Low or Pulsing====&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking signal is a failsafe interlock with critical game functions including the display, sounds, lamp matrix, and solenoids. It prevents operation of each of these game features to protect the game circuitry in the event of a system failure. For instance, if the MPU is not running, and the lamp matrix is stuck on at a particular row or column, those parts will heat up quickly, and at the very least damage that circuitry. Coils remaining locked on could cause even larger damage to the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the game functions listed above require the blanking signal to be high (&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not pulsing but always high&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;) to operate. As an example, the solenoid driver circuitry logically &amp;quot;ands&amp;quot; the blanking signal with solenoid commands using a 7408 AND gates (at U17, U18, U19 and U20).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of blanking, with the blanking LED never lighting, means that the game program is not running. It either never started running, locked up due to an invalid ROM image or a problem with the data, address, control, or chip select signals on the MPU, or detected a problem with the RAM memory.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Blanking.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|C58, a timing element for the 555 timer. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In rare cases, C58 can fail. C58 holds the input to the 555 timer high between pulses from the display circuitry. This causes the blanking signal to pulse. A pulsing blanking signal can manifest in missing digits on the display, some lamp columns not being turned on, and possibly other issues. C58 is a 1uf tantalum capacitor. If the blanking signal is pulsing, replace C58.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Blanking.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 CPU Blanking Circuit. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will update the displays by sending data to the display 6821 PIA at U51 at regular intervals (every 2.8 msec).&lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 to pulse high periodically. The DE schematics call this signal &amp;quot;TG&amp;quot;. It is merely called &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; in WMS schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at U36, in at pin 13, out at pin 12.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C57 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q50 and to pin 2 of the 555 timer at 1C.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 555 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at U51, the output of the 555 timer at pin 3 (and 7) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the longer, more detailed explanation, [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb75.pdf Stern service bulletin 75] provides the &amp;quot;Blanking Circuit Theory of Operation&amp;quot; for Data East MPUs which are identical to Williams MPUs with respect to the blanking circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When operating properly, the pins of the 555 timer will behave as follows (pin number, logic signal)&lt;br /&gt;
#low&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing at the same rate as the 6821 PIA at U51, pin 4&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing very rapidly. i.e. &amp;quot;ticking&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair Leon&#039;s System 11 test ROM] runs correctly on an MPU, this guarantees that all data, address, and control signals are working correctly. If blanking doesn&#039;t go high with a game ROM installed, ensure that the ROM images are valid. This is by far the most probable once Leon&#039;s ROM runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (System 9)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetGenerator.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 9 MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9ResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator on a System 9 MPU.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The three electrolytic caps (all 100uf/25V), two inductors, and 5 ceramic caps (all .001uf labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;) are part of the 5, 12, and -12 volt power filtering circuitry. The D2, 1N5817 diode isn&#039;t needed if an NVRAM is used instead of a SuperCap or remote batteries.  However, a jumper must be installed at D2 to power the NVRAM.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset section of the System 9 MPU is almost identical to the System 11 reset section. As such, a modification similar to the mod outlined below can be performed on System 9 boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove resistors R6, R8, and R12. Really, all but R6 can simply be clipped off. One through hole at R6 will be used later.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove transistor Q4&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a reset generator (MCP120-460GI/TO) where Q4 was removed. Orient the reset generator the same way that Q4 was oriented, matching the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper from the upper leg of where R6 was removed (oriented as shown in the picture, upside-down from game installation) to the via that is about 1/4&amp;quot; southeast of the R6 connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it. Most of the rest of the reset circuit can be removed, but this provides no advantage since those parts are already &amp;quot;out of circuit&amp;quot; with this modification.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary to power the sound amplifier on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetMinimum.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Another image of the bare minimum part requirement when using a modern reset generator. The three electrolytic caps are all 100uf/25V. Note that the right most electrolytic cap is oriented backwards from the other two. The 5 ceramic caps are all .001uf and are labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;. These are sometimes called 1000pf ceramic caps.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MCP130 reset generator variant, with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used too, but it isn&#039;t necessary. This is because the resistor at R170 provides an external 4.7K ohm pull up for the /RESET line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the reset generator has a longer reset delay than the OEM circuitry. At boot, the 7 segment LED will seem to show a &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; for a fraction of a second. It will turn to a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and remain &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; after that, assuming that the board is booting properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor1.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumpers&amp;quot; where inductors are normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor2.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; where an inductor is normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some System 9 MPUs shipped from the factory with zero ohm jumpers installed instead of inductors (see images left and right). When repairing alkaline corrosion, it&#039;s completely acceptable to replaced damaged inductors with jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (All versions of System 11)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Section.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 11A MPU board.  Components to be removed are circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Gen.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Reset section with reset generator and jumper installed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on all versions of the System 11 MPU boards. A reset generator can be installed. Since the reset section of all versions of the System 11 MPU board is susceptible to battery damage, this is a very easy, and minimalistic way to rebuild the reset section. To do so, 4 components will need to be removed and a jumper installed. The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Q39 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from top to bottom as installed on the board) R58, R60 (these two are just below the Q39 transistor), and R69.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO (also used on Data East MPUs) where Q39 was. Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q39 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install in the bottom through hole). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the right pad of R58 and the right pad of R60 (both resistors have been removed).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary for the sound section of the MPU on most boards, except the 11B and 11C variants.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired. Please consult the System 11 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics.  The MCP130 variant with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used, but it is not necessary.  This is because resistor network SR19 pin 3 is an external 4.7K ohm resistor used to pull up the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a prime example of where a reset generator is very handy.  The amount of components replaced are reduced from 15-20 to 1.  Note that because this was an 11B board (also true for 11C boards), there is no sound amplifier on the board.  Hence, the +12v is not needed at all, and none of the parts related to the +12v were repopulated.  If this were an 11(nothing) or an 11A board, the +12V inductor (can be replaced by a simple jumper), the W10/W11 jumper, and associated capacitors (C27, C28, and C29) would need to be populated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=330px heights=210px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;A Prime Candidate for Using a Reset Generator (11B MPU Board Shown)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot.JPG|Battery alkali leeched into the reset section.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot WIP.JPG|Components removed, affected traces and pads cleaned and treated.&lt;br /&gt;
File:S11ResetSectionAnnotated.png|Components repopulated. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MinumunResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Another image showing &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;the single jumper (string tied to it) and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator (System 11B/11C). System 11 (nothing) and System 11A must retain a few more parts.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the above gallery pics, note that some components in the reset area had to be reinstalled.  These components are in the area of the reset section, but are not part of the reset circuitry. They are actually related to the game RAM, enabling CMOS power to reach the RAM and to control pin 18, the chip enable pin of the RAM. Without these parts, the MPU will not successfully boot.  Instead, there will be a &#039;&#039;&#039;single blink code&#039;&#039;&#039; from the diagnostic LED indicating a U25 RAM error (a &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; will display on boards with the 7-segment display).  If the game display is connected to the MPU board, a &amp;quot;U25 RAM ERROR&amp;quot; message will be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
*D1 - 1N5817 diode &lt;br /&gt;
*Q40 - 2N3904 transistor (a 2N4401 was used in this case)&lt;br /&gt;
*R64 - 1 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R65 - 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R68 - 4.7 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And, once again, for a System 11 (nothing) or a System 11A MPU, both of which have onboard amplifiers in the upper left corner and require 12VDC power, be sure to retain or replace the following parts:&lt;br /&gt;
*L2 - 4.7uH inductor (or a simple jumper)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C28 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 100uf/25V electrolytic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Connecting a logic probe to the MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Logic Probe connected to System 9 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Logic Probe connected to System 11 (11A) MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, +5v and ground can always be acquired at any one of the bypass capacitors, which are located at most every chip, and simply labeled as &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 comp PSU.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 9 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 comp PSU.JPG|300px|right|thumb|System 11 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 1J17 power connection is essentially the same for System 9 and all variants of the System 11 MPU boards.  The ground connection can be attached to pins 1 through 3.  The +5vdc connection can be connected to pins 4 through 6.  -12vdc gets connected to pin 8 and +12vdc gets connected to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 games are far more tolerant of low line conditions vs. the newer WPC games.  Some things to check if the game is resetting are the usual culprits for this type of thing:  connectors, filter capacitors, slam switches, bad chip sockets, etc.  It is good preventative maintenance to replace the +5 volt filter capacitor on the power supply with a new one; most of these are 25+ years old and might be getting to the point of wearing out.  Certainly replace them if you are getting resetting on your system 11 game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11 games give an indication that they&#039;ve been slam tilted; if you&#039;re getting a &amp;quot;game reset&amp;quot; but you get a noise and/or a message on the displays beforehand, it is probably a slam switch issue vs. a true reset issue.  Check all the slam switches in the game (usually the coin door is the main one, and also the ball roll tilt if present).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
====A/C solenoid/flasher problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AuxDriverBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board, showing the A/C select relay, the clear &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; at the top, center of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is a dual &amp;quot;make/break&amp;quot; (DPDT, double pole, double throw) relay that supplies power to either the &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; or the &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. It is located on the Auxiliary Power/Driver Board for games that use the board which was introduced with Big Guns and used on all subsequent games. For games prior to Big Guns, like F-14 Tomcat, the relay is probably located under the playfield. There are exceptions. High Speed and Grand Lizard do not use an A/C select relay. Road Kings uses one for a handful of solenoids, but this game did not follow the 1-8 solenoid convention which games after it adopted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple ways that the A-Side / C-Side (A/C after this) relay circuit can fail. If the driving transistor (Q8 for Big Guns and later, Q7 for games prior to Big Guns, and located on the MPU board) shorts, the A/C select relay will be constantly energized, resulting in flashers firing when coils should have fired. If the driving transistor never switches the A/C select relay on, coils will fire when flashers should have fired.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing this behavior is easy. Use the diagnostic buttons to select solenoid test, and watch carefully to see what fires. The display will show the coil/flasher under test. The first 8 drive circuits tested will have an &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. That is, circuits will fire in the following order: 1A, 1C, 2A, 2C, ... 8A, 8C. If the A/C select circuit is not working correctly, the same coil or flasher will fire twice in a row, once for the A side and once for the C side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is generally solenoid 12 in coil test. Placing the &amp;quot;Auto Advance&amp;quot; button in the up position, to repeatedly test solenoid 12, should allow you to hear the A/C relay clicking on and off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of &amp;quot;one side&amp;quot; of the A/C select circuit is not working, the fuse supplying the voltage to that side may be blown. F2 (DC side of BR1) and F8 (AC side of BR1) fuse the 25V circuit. F4 (DC side of BR2) and F7 (AC side of BR2) fuse the 50V circuit. Another suspect is fractured solder joints on the A/C select relay. Reflowing these solder joints is simple. The A/C select relay is relatively heavy and it&#039;s weight puts stress on the solder connection at the printed circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-OKOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing normal, working switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is rare for the A/C relay itself to fail. A possible source of trouble are the miniature contacts on the relay wipers. These are high power, high current, contacts that can be filed with a small point file to restore proper current carrying capacity.  Under no circumstances should you ever use contact cleaner on these contacts, as this could cause a spark or fire to occur. Be careful to not mangle the contact wipers in an attempt to adjust them. Adjust with care. 99% of the time, these switch contacts need no maintenance at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-WeldedOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a disassembled A/C select relay with both the A Side and the C Side connected at the center contact pads. It&#039;s rare for one of these relays to &amp;quot;weld&amp;quot; itself to both sides. In this particular instance, the game would fire both the A-side coil and the C-side flasher at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other failure points are the connectors and headers connecting the aux driver board to the main cpu/driver board. Fractured solder joints can affect the proper operation of the relay. It is good practice to replace, or at minimum, reflow the header pins, and to replace connector pins in their housings with new pins. System 11 games use .156 connectors in most locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And finally, the solder joints holding the A/C select relay to the board may fracture and cause loss of connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On a related note, if the flashers never illuminate during game or test, but the A/C relay physically engages, likewise the flasher lamps are good, and power is present at the lamps, suspect potential failure of the U1 (4N25) U1 optocoupler on the interconnect board.  Starting with Jokerz, the U1 optocoupler on the D-12313 interconnect board was used to identify whether or not the A/C relay has engaged.  Under normal operation, if the A/C relay has engaged, the voltage on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; side passes back to the optocoupler.  In turn, there is a switch on the switch matrix, typically switch 2, which receives the signal from the U1 optocoupler.  Note that U1 is on some previous games like Taxi, but it was not used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems with RottenDog MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPUDIPSwitches.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left| RottenDog MPU with a red switch bank for selecting either Williams or Data East special solenoid implementation.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDMPU004DIPSwitches.jpg ‎‎|300px|thumb|right| These DIP switches on this RottenDog are configured for a Williams game, even though they do not seem to match the PCB silkscreen.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU board can accommodate both Williams and Data East special solenoid implementations. This is accomplished with an 8 DIP switch bank, pictured at left. If set to the wrong game system, special solenoids will not operate properly in your game. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The DIP switch positions should be set the opposite of what you might think, based on the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpecialSolenoidCircuit.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A typical special solenoid circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Special solenoids on system 11 games are similar to the earlier variants used on all previous Williams&#039; board sets.  During gameplay/test modes the primary switches on the special solenoids (usually the pops and slings) are active, allowing actuation of those switches to fire the solenoids.  This is done by grounding an input to a 7402 logic chip which in turn pre-drives a 2n4401 pre-driver transistor which drives a TIP122 Darlington transistor to fire the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During solenoid test mode only, the secondary path to the 7402 is utilized instead to fire the solenoids.  Since there are 2 paths to fire the solenoids, it is possible for a special solenoid to work in game/test mode, but fail the solenoid test due to a failed PIA or 7402 chip, and vice-versa.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the primary switch associated with the special solenoid device. Therefore, System 9 special solenoids are not activated during solenoid test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a special solenoid actuation switch locks on, the solenoid itself will lock on as well, (hopefully) blowing the associated fuse before blowing all or some of the TIP122/2N4401/7402 circuit.  An inline fuse holder can be added to all special solenoids with a 1 amp fuse installed to help prevent this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11B games do not use the special solenoids in the same way. Special solenoid switches were added to the switch matrix instead, keeping all or some of the solenoid pulses under CPU control. It is easy to identify whether a game has CPU controlled special solenoids by inspecting the activation switches on the special solenoids. If there are both a primary and a secondary switch installed, the game operates via the direct-fire special solenoid setup.  (Note that a secondary switch in the case of slingshots does not mean the normal 2nd switch all slings shots employ. Rather, it refers to a switch that only activates when the sling activates. It is installed near the pivot point of the sling arm underneath the playfield.) Also the secondary switches go to CPU connector J18. If nothing is connected to J18, then the special solenoids are CPU controlled. In games like BK2K only the kickers are CPU controlled while the pop bumpers still use the secondary switches.    There was no rhyme or reason (no definitive start / stop point) which System 11B titles used special solenoid secondary switches, and which did not. Please refer to the game list [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11B above] to determine which did / did not use the secondary switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) that &amp;quot;protect&amp;quot; the board logic from shorts between the sense switches and coil power. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The usual cause of special solenoid circuit failure is a stuck switch that locks the associated solenoid on, causing the TIP-122 transistor to fail and the coil to get so hot that the winding insulation melts (causing a reduction of coil resistance, eventually approaching zero ohms). The zener diode (pictured, left) in the circuit may fail shorted as well. This will cause the associated coil to lock on even after repair of the other damaged circuitry since the zener is connected directly to ground. The shorted zener diode causes the 7402/2N4401/TIP122 circuit to react identically to a switch closure. Gack!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;If your game doesn&#039;t use the special solenoid switch inputs as in most System 11B games and all System 11C games (i.e. no connection at 1J18), then these zeners serve no purpose and may be clipped off. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Unusual Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlwindPinchedWire.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A pinched wire (white/brown) that causes a tough to find solenoid problem.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 method of securing boards sometimes causes odd problems. The securing screws must be removed completely to remove a board vs the improved WPC method of sliding the board off the screw head via a &amp;quot;keyhole&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When securing the boards, it&#039;s important to ensure that wires aren&#039;t pinched behind the board. If a wire is pinched severely enough, the insulation will be displaced and the conductor will contact the backbox ground plain, which can cause a wide range of odd problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wire in the picture shown at left happened to be the ground path for coil #1, the outhole kicker on Whirlwind. When the game was powered on, the coil would lock on until the blanking circuit became active. Pressing the diagnostic/audit coin door button would also result in the coil locking on. This was actually the A/C relay flipping to the coil side for diagnostics and providing power to the coils. The outhole coil had a path to ground via the pinched wire and would lock on. A game could be started and the coil appeared to work properly until &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;any&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the 1 through 8 coils were activated (when the A/C select relay would energize again). At that time, the outhole coil would fire at the same time as the other 1 through 8 coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This one was a real head scratcher!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps wired in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 flash lamps are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
This may seem painfully obvious, but with any lamp problem, where all lamps in the same circuit are not lighting, first see if the associated fuse is blown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Illumination Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
As a rule of thumb, general illumination (GI) lamp issues with System 9 or 11 games are dependent on the era of the game.  The reason for this is GI circuits passed through different boards over the years.  And, the majority of GI issues are typically due to the circuit board.  Not so much the circuit board itself, but the junction between the header pin connections on the circuit board and the connector pins located in the female housings.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is extremely common for the header pins and / or the female connections related to the GI circuit to heat up, and in worse cases char or burn.  When some of these games were in operation earning money, they could potentially be turned on for 8, 12, or more hours every day.  If the connectors were compromised at some time in the game&#039;s life, the issues become compounded.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The problem is a vicious cycle.  If either side of the connector heats up, it creates more resistance.  If it creates more resistance, it draws more current.  If it draws more current, it heats up.  This cycle continues until the connector blows the circuit&#039;s fuse (provided the proper fuse is installed and not by-passed), the connectors are so bad that the circuit no longer has continuity, or the connectors are replaced with new ones.  It is recommended that both the male header pin connector be replaced and the associated pin connectors which connect to it.  Replacing only one side of the connector is only asking for repeat problems down the road.  Header pins rated for 7 amp are highly recommended as a replacement.  If the 7A headers are used, the likelihood of the connector failing due to heat is greatly reduced.  Likewise, the use of Molex Trifurcon connector pins are recommended.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another prevalent problem is the failure of the relay board or the relay board connectors. GI relay boards are typically found under the playfield and on the back of the lamp insert panel. The job of the relay board is to switch the GI lamps on/off for special lighting effects. Over many years of operation, the solder joints on the connector may fracture.  Although it is more common for the male/female connectors to burn badly. Repinning these connectors, as is typical for GI connectors, is the prescribed fix.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Space Shuttle to Fire!=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 GI Circuits.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Typical System 9/11 Power Supply with GI Drivetrain Notated]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During this time period, general illumination entered the power supply [1 / 2], was parsed, and exited the power supply as 4 separate circuits [4].  Although there were 4 discrete GI circuits with 4 separate fuses [5], all 4 circuits were turned on/off via one relay [3] located on the power supply.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the factory connection on the power supply for System 9 games differs than what is shown in the picture. Connections [1 / 2] do not exist on System 9 games, and only two wires are used to input the general illumination instead of four.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Big Guns to Swords of Fury=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone Interconnect.JPG|300px|left|thumb|The interconnect board from a Cyclone mounted to the left side of the backbox]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With all the games mentioned in this particular section, there were some design growing pains.  Williams was creating a preliminary interconnect board, however, it was very different from game to game at first.  Therefore, GI issues may occur at the power supply connections, the interconnect board connections, and / or at one of the discrete GI relay boards used.  Since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A shown at the pic on the left, the general illumination headers, connectors, and connector housings have been changed out due to fatigue / failure.  This is a common failure point on games such as Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Taxi to Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball=====&lt;br /&gt;
The games included during this era used a somewhat standardized interconnect board located below the CPU board.  The GI circuits coming directly from the transformer enter the board on the right side at connector J6.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  In actuality, the GI wires are only 4 wires, instead of 8 wires.  Once the upper 2 wires reach the board, each of them are daisy-chained through the insulation displacement connector (IDC).  Equally, the bottom 2 wires are connected in the same fashion.  This was presumedly done to reduce cost, and decrease the life expectancy of the connection as a whole.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect BK2K GI Marked.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Williams Interconnect Board with general illumination wire colors marked.  Interconnect board is from a Black Knight 2000]]&lt;br /&gt;
The most typical header connections that fail on the interconnect board are J6 (the GI input and return) and J7 (the GI output and return lines to the backbox insert).  The purpose of the picture to the left is to easily identify what GI circuits pass through what connections.  This will aid in attempting to check the continuity of your rework, whether only replacing just one of the header connectors or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the wiring color codes for J6 in the pic are not the incoming wire colors.  The wiring codes in the pic are illustrated this way to determine where the GI circuits disperse throughout the board.  The game&#039;s schematics in the manual include this information too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that discrete GI relay boards were still used during this time period.  Dependent on the game, there may be one to three discrete GI relay boards used.  Again, since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======Repairing the General Illumination Input Connector / Wiring======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Butterfly_GI.jpg|thumb|300px|left|General Illumination input connector with looped (butterfly) wiring]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11 Interconnect GI Connection.jpg|thumb|300px|right|One method for repairing the GI input connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
From the factory, only 4 wires total were connected to the GI power and return input connector, which is located on the right hand side of the interconnect board.  With only 4 discrete connections per wire from the transformer, 8 wires are needed to connect to the interconnect board.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  To increase 2 wire connections to 4 wire connections, the wires connect to the IDC connector via one connector pin, pass through that connector pin, and loop back to another connector pin.  In doing this, the life expectancy of the connector and the header pins on the interconnect board are reduced (too much current for these connections to maintain over their lifespan).  The end result is typically burnt connector pins, housings, headers, and in some cases, the interconnect board too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To resolve the burnt connection issue, the header pins on the interconnect board should be replaced with new ones.  Preferably 7A higher current rated header pins.  As for the harness side, the housing should be replaced too, and Molex Trifurcon crimp pins used within the housing.  To compensate for the extra wires needed, each of the input wires will need a &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot; junction soldered in place.  To do so, take a small piece of wire approximately 4&amp;quot; - 5&amp;quot; long.  In the middle of the small piece of wire, carefully strip the insulation, leaving about 1/4&amp;quot; of exposed wire.  Place a piece of heatshrink on the single incoming wire.  Then, bend the small piece of wire at its center where the insulation is stripped, until both ends leads are nearly parallel with one another.  Take the incoming wire, and solder it to the exposed wire in the center.  The end result will look like a rudimentary &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot;.  Pull the heatshrink over the junction, and that&#039;s it.  This needs to be done for the remaining 3 wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the wire modifications, you can also do a board modification. The J6 connector on the right side can be burned to a crisp. Often lifting pads under the printheader. To repair this you can add a jumper wire to the top 4 traces, connecting pin 1-2-3-4 together. This can also be done for the bottom 2 traces, connecting pin 6-8 together, but you are still missing pins 5 and 7 to be connected to 6 and 8. Turn the board over and solder a jumper over pins 5 thru 8. The same can be done for pins 1 thru 4. Now you have the best possible connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_1.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board with Modification&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_2.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (front)&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_3.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (back)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorLampMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing lamp matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistor.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The same broken SIP resistor after removal.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Sockets=====&lt;br /&gt;
Failed lamp sockets are not very common with System 9-11c games.  If a specific lamp will not illuminate, spinning the lamp socket canister or solder tab can resolve the issue in some cases.  One thing to keep in mind is that all controlled lamp sockets have a diode soldered to two of the lamp socket tabs.  Due to this, the legs of the diode can get pressed against other leads on the lamp socket resulting in an electrical short.  The end result may be a lamp which shines more brightly than other lamps in the same column or row, or a whole lamp column or row will illuminate dimly when they shouldn&#039;t be lit at all.  The resolution is to inspect all associated lamps in the column or row, and look for solder tabs or diode legs touching where they should not be.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Pinbot, Williams introduced lamp boards.  Lamp boards were used in areas where lamp inserts were positioned too closely together, and it did not make logical sense (or it was not physically possible) to use individual lamp sockets.  With subsequent games, lamp boards were used whenever lamp inserts were &amp;quot;nested&amp;quot; in groups.  This trend was presumedly done to save on assembly and production costs.  One benefit of lamp boards is that bulb replacemnt became easier in most cases.  A simple turn of the twist lamp socket (WMS # 24-8767), and the 555 bulb could be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Lamp Board.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early direct solder lamp board as seen on Pinbot - the large color matrix below the top and right colored targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generations of lamp boards had the lamp column and row wires soldered directly to the board.  On one hand, this is beneficial, because there is one less mechanical connection used in the lamp circuits.  On the other hand, it makes it more difficult to remove the lamp boards completely from the game to clean and / or service.  On the plus side, very little goes wrong with the direct wired lamp boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|300px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Two things that can fail are individual lamp circuit diodes or the solder pads can develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot;, where the twist sockets make physical contact with the board.  To overcome the divots, simply add a little solder, and carefully reflow the solder pads.  Make certain not to apply too much heat...just enough to evenly flow the solder.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Fire!, Williams started using lamp boards with .156&amp;quot; header connections for the lamp column and row lines.  This allowed for easy removal and service of the lamp boards.  However, it introduced some new problems.  Because the lamp boards used were single-sided, (this was presumably a cost analysis decision), the .156&amp;quot; header pins can develop cold solder joints and crack due to vibration.  The problem can easily be rectified by removing the old solder from the header pins, and applying fresh, new solder.  This style of lamp board is susceptible to the same issues (bad diodes and divots) as mentioned in the direct wired lamp boards section above.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Adjacent Columns or Rows Lighting Simultaneously =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsS11ShortedLampColumnDrives.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Column drive transistor tabs touching, shorted together. Here, lamp columns 3 and 4 would light at the same time.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A problem seen fairly often is the tabs of either column drives or row returns touching, and therefore shorted and causing more than one column (in the picture at left) or row to light at the same time. If you have this issue, it&#039;s easy to quickly examine the column drive and row return transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Lamp Matrix Row and Column Testing =====&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using a jumper wire.  The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the lamp matrix columns and rows.  The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_columns.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP42 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns.  Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it&#039;s function is to prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix.  In this test we are only connecting a single lamp at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J7.  There is no pin 5 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a column doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q66&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q64&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q62&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q60&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q58&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q56&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q54&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q52&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_rows.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP102/122 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J6.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a row doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test. The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q80&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q81&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q82&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q83&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Grn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q84&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q85&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q86&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q87&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using MOSFETs in the Lamp Matrix Circuitry=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Procedure by Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. Using modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06), the heat (and power consumption) can be reduced substantially.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETSchematic.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Typical &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation (left), &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation on right. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics shown at left compare the widely used &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation with the &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation that uses two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half. Doing so drives the MOSFET with a 9 VDC Vgs.&amp;lt;br  clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 9 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors and IRF9Z34N FETs installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q23-30&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR5&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 11 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R82-89&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR16&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11_mosfet.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A very clean alternate implementation with resistors on the component side. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider DumbAss&#039;&#039;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shown at left is a very clean installation of all parts on the component side of the board. Note that the 1K resistors are situated such that the &amp;quot;body&amp;quot; of the resistor passes between the MOSFETs instead of the legs, thereby eliminating the possibility of a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.  Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorSwitchMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing switch matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Row and Column Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the switch matrix can be tested by simulating switch closures using a jumper wire on both System 9 and System 11 (all revision levels) MPUs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem9SwitchMatrixTesting.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Testing the System 9 switch matrix, but jumpering from pins on 1J8 to pins on 1J10.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As seen at left, testing the switch matrix rows and columns on a System 9 MPU is identical to testing on a System 11 MPU except for which connectors to use. The switch columns on the System 9 MPU at 1J8 are numbered right to left. The switch rows at 1J10 are numbered left to right. 1J9 is available (sometimes not stuffed) for opto switch processing, although this feature may never been used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 switch matrix operates on 5VDC. The switch columns at 1J8 are &amp;quot;strobed&amp;quot; by being pulled to ground successively by the 6821 PIA. The switch columns are normally pulled high via a pull-up resistor. If the switch at the intersection of the column and row is closed, when the column is strobed, the row will be pulled low too. In this way, the processor knows which column it strobed, and which rows return that strobe.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the system 11 switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_col.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix columns.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J10 pin 9, the leftmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated.  The test may report the switch name, refer to the switch matrix table in the manual to correlate the name to the switch number.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J8 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to row 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J8.  There is no pin 6 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire Colors&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Switch number&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_row.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix rows.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J10 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J10 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to column 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J10.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Shorted or non-working switch column====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One or more failed switch columns can be caused by a failed column drive transistor (Q42 through Q49, all 2N4401s) or a failed 1K SIP resistor pack at SRC6.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The column drive transistor part was changed with the system 11B MPU. System 9 to 11A MPUs use 2N3904 transistors at location Q42 to Q49 with 1.5Kohm inline resistors (R71 through R78). These column drive transistors fail quite often as these MPUs age. These 2N3904 transistors can be replaced with 2N4401s. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When System 11B was introduced, the switch column drives were changed to 2N5550s with 470 ohm inline resistors. The more commonly found, and beefier 2N5551, is a good substitute for the 2N5550. Before replacing the transistor, be sure which kind the board uses. Some early system 11B MPUs were stuffed with 2N3904s despite the schematics indicating otherwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A broken SIP can also cause a switch column not to work. This usually happens with System 11 and 11A CPUs. With 11B WMS also changed the switch section layout and eliminated most of the SIPs. The likely candidates are SRC6 and SR11. In the case of SRC6, measure resistance between pin 1 and 2 to 9. If it&#039;s broken it&#039;s usually open after pin 3 or 4. This is a bussed 1K SIP with additional 470pfd capacitors connected to ground and practically NLA. Fortunately the caps are not needed because they are also mounted on the board so it can be replaced with a standard 9-8 1K SIP. Pin 10 which is the common ground for the caps is not used here. SR11 is a standard bussed 560 ohm 10-9 SIP. Here you measure resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 to 10. Be aware that two types of SIPs are used on the board: bussed and isolated. If you suspect a different SIP has failed check the schematics for the pin layout. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Brokensip.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A broken resistor SIP.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a broken resistor package similar to SRC6 but out of a System 11 master display. As can be seen, the part may look solid to the naked eye, but it&#039;s actually fractured.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ground Row Shorts====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11CrackedSR11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Note the fracture in the SIP at SR11. The fracture became apparent only after desoldering the part.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A possible cause for one or more ground row shorts (indicated by the game software on the score display during switch test) is a fractured resistor SIP at SR11 (a 560 ohm 10-pin bussed resistor network). SR11 is a pull-up resistor that is connected between each switch row return and 5VDC. If the return is not pulled up, that return will look like a low signal continuously, which the MPU interprets as a row ground short. Visual inspection of the SIP &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;might or might not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; identify the cause of the problem. A better test is to remove the switch row return connector (J10) and probe each pin with a logic probe. The logic probe should indicate &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; for every pin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Specific to the board pictured at left, a logic probe indicated that J10 pins 1, 2, and 3 were all high but the remaining pins had no signal at all. The fracture can easily be seen between pins 5 and 6 of the SIP (pin 4 isn&#039;t used) meaning that pins 6 through 10 were not connected to 5VDC and therefore not pulling the switch row return to logic high. Hence, the MPU declared a row ground short for rows 1 through 5.  Note that the actual fracture can rarely be seen prior to attempted removal of the resistor network from the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 4N25 Opto Couplers in the Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:4N25System11InterconnectBoard.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Three 4N25 Opto Couplers on a Williams System 11 Interconnect Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games that include an Interconnect Board may use 4N25 Opto Couplers to detect power being applied to the flippers or to detect 28VDC being applied to the A/C relay (as in Rollergames). Pre-Fliptronic WPC games that use the -1 power/driver board also use 4N25 Opto Couplers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These opto couplers are connected to the game switch matrix. Detecting these switches is most often used for lane change and for entering HSTD initials. If one of these functions no longer works, the 4N25 opto couplers should be considered suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, testing an opto coupler is simple using the diode test function provided by most DMMs. Set the DMM to diode test, compare results against those pictured below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Testing a 4N25 Opto Coupler&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Internal.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The internal schematic of the 4N25. Pins 1 and 2 connect to an internal diode (LED). Pins 4 thru 6 connect to a PNP photo transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test3.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the diode connected to pins 1 and 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test2.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 5, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test1.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 4, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switches Not Registering with a Rottendog MPU / Driver Board Installed====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_Before.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_After.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Modified Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the opto switches are not registering at all in a game, and a Rottendog MPU board is being used, suspect that it is an older style board.  This board can easily be upgraded though.  U2 will have to be switched from a 74HCT240 to a 74HC240 chip, and RA5 will have to be changed from a 9-pin 4.7K ohm bussed SIP resistor network to a 9-pin 560 ohm bussed SIP resistor network.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 9/11 High Voltage Section Repair&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don&#039;t continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.  &lt;br /&gt;
====High Voltage Issues With the Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Check Voltages=====&lt;br /&gt;
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working.    &lt;br /&gt;
On the Power Supply Board, use a DMM set to DC volts with the - lead grounded, probe the following connector &lt;br /&gt;
pins to determine if the HV section needs repair.  If the display fuse, F1 is blowing, &lt;br /&gt;
you should remove the applicable display connector (with power off) before testing the voltages. Note that these are &amp;quot;loaded&amp;quot; voltages. If you are testing on the bench, or without displays connected, your measurements may vary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-11883 or D-12246:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 1 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 3 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-8345-xxx:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 3 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 4 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the test points are more than about 5 volts out of spec, then your HV section may &lt;br /&gt;
be malfunctioning (if you or a previous owner replaced Z2/Z4 with 1N4763A diodes to purposely reduce the display voltage, test readings in the 90&#039;s range would be normal).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check the table below for a solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Troubleshooting table=====&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Symptom&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Cause&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacement&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 0V ON BOTH +100/-100 lines&lt;br /&gt;
| Check F1 &lt;br /&gt;
| 1/4 Amp SB&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D3&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR1, ZR2&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R1&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q4&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR3, ZR4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q3&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R4&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=4 | F1 1/4 Amp Fuse Blows&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Capacitor at C1 and C3&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Display&lt;br /&gt;
| Display Glass*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN7180&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN7180*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN6118&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN6118*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| +118V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| -118V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  colspan=3 | * located on display board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Displays Test With no Shorts&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Once the displays are tested and shorts are eliminated, we can proceed with the HV section repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacing the components in the HV Section&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Since there are not that many components, if you are having problems isolating the &lt;br /&gt;
fault, a quick solution is to replace all the components in &lt;br /&gt;
the HV section. If only one side (+ or -) is failing, it is possible to rebuild only the failing side.&lt;br /&gt;
Check the parts section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the replacement parts for one or both failing sides:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;-Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+,-Location&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340 (or MJE15030)&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350 (or MJE15031)&lt;br /&gt;
| Q1,Q3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
| Q2,Q4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| Z1,Z3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| Z2,Z4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| R1,R4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| R2,R5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| R3,R6&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| C2,C4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| C1,C3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| colspan=4 | **This is a 91V Zener to reduce the voltage to prolong display life&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSPartIdentification.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visual depiction of the parts in a System 11 high voltage section. Note that the legs of the MJE15030/MJE51031 are crossed as this power supply originally used OEM parts SDS-201 and SDS-202]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;strong&amp;gt;Remove and replace HV components&amp;lt;/strong&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Stuff board with new components.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Leave a little space under components for air flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Bend leads on components so they won&#039;t fall out when board is inverted for soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Solder the parts to the board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip excess off leads&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE340/MJE350 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE340/MJE350 is the heat-sinked transistor.  On most Williams boards, this transistor pin configuration is not the same as the original part.  It will need to be installed vertically with heat sink attached to the transistor only.  The transistor will sit at about a 45 degree angle so the legs can be lined up to fit in the correct holes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check your board and insure correct orientation before soldering in place.  Late versions of the System 11 series boards were designed to use the pin configuration of the MJE340/MJE350 transistors.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Do not mount vertically if the power supply is designed to use the pin configurations of the newer transistors!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MJEInstall.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE15030/MJE15031 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys11MJELegsCrossed.jpg|300px|left|thumb|High Voltage section with MJE15031 installed. Note the crossed legs on the left transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 PS Alt HV Transistor Pads.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Power supply with pads for both styles of HV transistors]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 are rated for higher power and can be used instead of the MJE340/MJE350 (the MJE340/MJE350 are well within design specifications and are suitable replacements at 1/3 the cost of the MJE15030/MJE15031). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 pin configuration has the Base and Emitter reversed as compared to the MJE340/MJE350. In the image at left, the left transistor (MJE15031) shows one method of crossing the legs safely. The transistor&#039;s two left legs are shifted right on position. The third leg is then jumpered to the boards left through hole position.  If you prefer not to cross legs, this transistor can also be mounted vertically, but this transistor would be facing the opposite direction as compared to the MJE340/MJE350 pictured above.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some power supplies which have pads for both the SDS-201/SDS-202 or the MJE15030/MJE15031 style of transistors.  In the pic to the right, the MJE15030/MJE15031 transistors are installed from the factory, but there are solder pads just below for installation of the SDS-201/SDS-202 transistors. If installing ME15030/MJE15031, the upper pads are used, and no leg crossing is required.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready to test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the rebuilt power supply, return to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Check Voltages&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; section of this guide.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9-11 HV section of the PSU is very similar in design to the earlier System 3-7.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Power_Supply_Issues|Sys 3-7 PSU Problems]] section entitled &#039;&#039;&#039;+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU&#039;&#039;&#039;, for more detail.  It also provides links to source complete HV rebuild kits which will normally cost under $10 shipped.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Panel Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segment Identification=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegmentLetters.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Alphanumeric and Numeric Segment Identification.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Will Not Light=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PlasmaBallTest.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Testing a high voltage plasma display with an inexpensive plasma ball]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If power to the display is correct, and the display was moved to a known working display panel position (if possible), it is possible that the display has outgassed. A plasma ball can be used to determine if a display glass is outgassed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A Youtube video demonstrating the use of an inexpensive plasma ball for this purpose can be found [https://youtube.com/shorts/GGftl3S_OWg?si=T5Cdzyovtar6_Han &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segments Light &amp;quot;In Sympathy&amp;quot; With Other Segments=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ShortedSegments.jpg|300px|left|thumb|In this image, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; light simultaneously, even though only one segment should be lit. The last two characters illustrate the issue clearly. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider Pinball50.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Internal shorts within a display glass can cause segments to light &amp;quot;in sympathy&amp;quot; with other segments. That is, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot;, for example, will both light, when only one of the segments &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;should&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be lit. Segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; is lit and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; is lit. This is caused by an internal short within the glass. The short can be confirmed by &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;removing the leads of the associated segments from the PCB&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; and measuring resistance between them. The resistance should be infinite, or open.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, there is no way to repair the glass and it should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Commas stuck on (Players 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4)=====&lt;br /&gt;
System 9: Check IC36 on the MPU (6821 PIA)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 16 = Players 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 17 = Players 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game in attract mode, check these pins with a logic probe. They should go low each time the displays turn off. if they stay high, the PIA is likely bad and will need to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Fuse F1 Blows=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the UDN Chips&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the display fuse is blowing, you should check the display board for shorts before connecting&lt;br /&gt;
a new or rebuilt power supply to the display board, as a shorted display or chip can damage a good power&lt;br /&gt;
supply.  Remove the display board from the system.  The display characters are driven by the two types &lt;br /&gt;
of UDN chips, the UDN7180 &amp;amp; UDN6118 (or UDN6184).  Locate these chips (there are several)&lt;br /&gt;
on the board and test them with your DMM set to diode check.  Clip your + (RED) &lt;br /&gt;
lead to the ground trace of the board.  Probe the UDN chips as shown in the diagram.  &lt;br /&gt;
If any shorts are read in the tested pins, the display should not be connected to the power &lt;br /&gt;
supply until the shorts are corrected.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pins labeled &#039;dont care&#039;), the UDN&lt;br /&gt;
chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board.  Take care to preserve this chip,&lt;br /&gt;
as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace.  Now install an IC socket in its place.&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat the test with no chip installed.  If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing Display Glass=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change1.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed with glass nipple in proper location]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change2.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Replacement glass installed after circuit board was drilled to allow for glass nipple in different location]]&lt;br /&gt;
All plasma displays have a finite life expectancy.  Display glass replacements were and are offered in several configurations.  The differences in these configurations are mainly the placement or lack of a display &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; on the back of the glass.  The glass nipple is what can pose as somewhat of a problem, when replacing a display glass.  Williams did place a rather large hole in the display circuit board.  However, the placement of the glass nipple has changed.  To overcome this issue, a hole can carefully be drilled through the circuit board to allow for the glass nipple.  When drilling, drill successive holes, starting with a small drill bit first, rather than drilling one large hole.  This will reduce the chances of the circuit board &amp;quot;splintering&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At one time, [http://www.pinballpcb.com/Displays.html pinballpcb.com] did offer replacement displays and / or just the replacement display circuit boards.  Neither of these products are available anymore.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit Repair.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Original display glass was secured to its circuit board with double-sided, high tack, foam tape.  If this cannot be acquired, a simple method to secure an existing or new display glass is to use silicone caulk or RTV caulk.  However, in following this method, the glass must be supported on the board until the caulk cures.  Wrapping the glass with rubber bands is a great way to do this.  Once the caulk is cured, just cut off the rubber bands.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Logic States of Display Output Signals for a Working MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
These logic states were recorded from a System 11A board. This board was running Swords of Fury code in display test mode manually paused with all characters / digits on &amp;quot;8&amp;quot;.  This is for games with a 4 x 7 display board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
L=LOW, H=HIGH, P=PULSE&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ3 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || H&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ2 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || None (Key) &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ1 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || L || 1 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || L || 3 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || L || 5 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || L || 7 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L || 9 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || L || 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 14 || L || 13 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 16 || L || 15 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 18 || L || 17 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 20 || P || 19 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 22 || P || 21 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 24 || P || 23 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 26 || P || 25 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jumper Settings for a newer System 9 Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board jumpers.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Jumpers Circled on a Comet System 9 Speech Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned above, the System 9 speech board is essentially the same as the System 6/7 speech board. However, the newer speech board has jumpers added to increase the flexibility of EPROMs used.  Either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs can be used.  If using 2532 EPROMs, install jumpers W2 and W4, and remove jumpers W1 and W3.  If using 2732 EPROMs, install jumpers W1 and W3, and remove jumpers W2 and W4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Sound or Speech Calls=====&lt;br /&gt;
To start a sound test, simply press the SW2 momentary switch at the bottom of the CPU board located between connections 1J16 and 1J17.  Once SW2 is pressed, the CPU will cycle through all of the sound / speech calls continuously.  Each System 9 game has a chart located in the manual, which lists the speech and sound calls made during test.  The benefit of the chart in the manual is that it lists the ROM where a particular call originates.  If a particular sound / speech call is not heard, the associated ROM listed for that call may be bad.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another result of speech calls missing is possibly a bad U2 or U3 on the speech board.  Both of these chips are 1458 op-amps.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Isolating the CPU Sound from the Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the sound / speech calls originate from the CPU board, while the remaining calls originate from the speech board.  If after running a game through sound test by pressing SW2, and some sounds are missing or very low in volume, a good idea is to isolate the CPU board from the speech board.  All of the sounds originated on the CPU board, leave the board via the 40 pin ribbon cable, and go to the speech board for mixing.  Once mixed, all of the sounds and speech are then returned to the CPU board, amplified, and sent out to the speakers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Much like the System 6/7 sound and speech boards, the sound can be isolated from the speech board for testing purposes.  The System 6/7 Type 2 sound board uses a jumper at position W1.  When jumper W1 is installed, the sound board can be diagnosed without the speech board installed.  The equivalent with the System 9 CPU board is jumper W10.  This jumper is typically not connected.  However, when it is connected, the sounds originating from the CPU board can be heard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Locate jumper W10 on the CPU board.  W10 is located to the right of SW2 on the board. There should be two very small wires clipped on either side of W10, as if W10 was installed and removed. Connect an alligator test lead across the short leads of W10.  If the short leads are not present, a short light gauge wire or wire wrap can be tack soldered to the solder pads of W10, or use a jumper wire to connect the lower legs of C32 and R76 which are just right of W10 (see pic, below).  With a jumper installed at W10, some sounds should be heard when SW2 is pressed. Sound test, via the coin door diagnostic button is likely to provide sounds for all but sound 7, which is a voice call. If no sounds are heard, further troubleshooting must be performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=350px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Adding W10 to a System 9 CPU Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumper.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Locating jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumped.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Temporarily jumpering W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System9JumperTemporary.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Alternate for jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games are known to &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; a bit. The &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; is caused by electromagnetic interference from the lamp matrix insinuating itself on the sound circuit. To minimize the interference, ensure all boards are screwed tightly to the backbox ground plain, with all screws installed.  This improves grounding and will help minimize &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another cause of hum could be an inconsistent +5DC volts from the power supply. An indicator of this being the cause of hum would be the game occasionally resetting as well.  Replacing caps C8 and C10 on the power supply may correct this issue.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the version of System 11 board, an 11C board or anything else (nothing, 11A, and 11B), sounds and music are handled with different specifics.  With the first 3 generations of MPU boards, the sounds originate from the MPU board and the background music originates from the sound board.  With the 11C board, both sounds and music are on the sound board, as the MPU no longer has a sound section populated on it. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume POT value=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 5K linear volume POT. Others shipped with a 10K linear volume POT. Both POT values work fine and either can be used to replace a failed volume POT.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 50 ohm resistor soldered to the volume POT. It is thought that this resistor was included so that the volume could never be turned to zero. For route games, at least some sound was thought to increase game earning potential. This resistor can be removed or jumpered around to enable turning the sound volume completely off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Boot Up Diagnostic Tones for the D-11297, D-11298, and D-11581 Sound Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11297, D-11298, and the D-11581 sound boards all provide diagnostic tones (&amp;quot;bongs&amp;quot;) at power on.  A single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; means that the sound board is operating properly.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of a bong indicates a problem with the sound board or it&#039;s connections. The possible causes for failure are numerous, including a failed amplifier, missing or incorrect connector placement, missing or noisy (AC ripple) power for a required voltage (-12VDC), failed speakers or the connection to the speakers, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is healthy enough to perform it&#039;s own self-diagnosis, it will attempt to indicate the problem by playing a specific number of bongs, as shown in the tables below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11297 &amp;amp; D-11298 Sound Boards&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U3 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11581 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U5 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Diagnostics Via the MPU Board for Games Prior to 11C=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the upper switch of the two switches on the side of the MPU board will test both the CVSD and DAC on the MPU board.  The first sound is typically sound ROM (on the MPU) specific, and it is a test of the CVSD chip.  The second sound is described as a  &amp;quot;twing&amp;quot;, and it is a test for the DAC.  If no sounds are heard, refer to the potential issues listed above in the previous section.  If one &amp;quot;ring&amp;quot; is heard, it denotes that the U23 RAM chip has failed.  Two or four rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U21 ROM.  Three or five rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U22 ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Connecting the Speaker and Volume Connections for a System 11 MPU Board on the Bench=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS Sys11 Speaker Volume Connection.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Speaker and Non-adjustable Volume Control Connected on a System 11 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the sound on a System 11 MPU on the bench, a speaker and volume control must be connected to connectors 1J15 and 1J16 respectively. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The speaker should connect to pins 2 and 3 of 1J15. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the adjacent pic, a 470Kohm resistor was used in lieu of a volume pot.  Other resistor values can be used, but 470Kohm allows the sound to be set to a comfortable audible level.  Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped into a .156&amp;quot; housing as shown. This resistor/connector set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3 through System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using alligator clip leads to power the board, use special care as to not send +12v down the -12v line (the pins are adjacent to one another).  Sending +12v down the -12v bus will most definitely destroy the 1408 DAC chip (if populated).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Is Very Faint Even at Maximum Volume =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:55536-CVSD.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Two hard to find 55536 CVSD ICs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
While most techs would suspect either a TL082 or a TL084 amplifier (on a pre-DCS sound board) or a 1458 amplifier (on a System 11 MPU) as the cause of this issue, the 55516/55532/55536/55564 CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta-Modulator) can also cause this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isolation to the CVSD is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into sound test.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use an oscilloscope to probe pins 9 and 12. A scope must be used since the signals are too subtle for a logic probe to detect.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 is a clock signal. &lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 12 is a data signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is making sounds that use the CVSD, both pin 9 and pin 12 should show &amp;quot;off nominal&amp;quot; signals. If the CVSD is working correctly, the output at pin 3 should be showing signal also. If it is not, then the CVSD has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Some Sounds Lower Volume Than Others =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11DACChannel.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The sound section of a System 11 MPU and the 2N3904 amplifying transistor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another sound anomaly manifests as some sounds being more faint than others is a failure in the 1408 DAC sound lane channel. In High Speed, for example, &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot; exercises both the 1408 and 55536 sound lanes. Sounds 1, 3, and 5 are all made via the 1408 DAC lane. If those sounds are faint, the issue could be the 10uf capacitor (C8), the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) that is used as a pre-amplifier, the 3.3K resistor (R7), or the 1408 DAC. Eliminating the easy possibilities first, replace the 10uf capacitor. If that doesn&#039;t fix the issue, replace the 2N3904. The 2N3904 may &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot; as failed, but not always. If the issue still remains, replace R7. Lastly, replace the 1408 DAC (U2). An equivalent part that may be used is the DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video, showing the problem and resolution can be viewed [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7fk3PtwvtE here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS_Sys11_1408_flipped_lid.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 1408 in the sound section of a System 11 MPU lost its top!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In another instance, Pin*Bot, all of the sounds were faint, except the last two in test.  This ended up being a bad 1408 DAC.  The last two sounds were unaffected, because the 55516 CVSD chip handled them.  With a visual inspection, the 1408 in the pic could not be determined it was bad, until it was in the midst of being desoldered from the circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Voice callouts are much softer than music/sound or missing completely =====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A and 11B MPU boards were populated with different resistor and capacitor value parts. If an 11A MPU is installed into an 11B game (F-14 into an Earthshaker for instance), it is possible that the voice callouts will be noticeably softer than the other music/sound. The following table details the difference between the two sound mixing sections &#039;&#039;(Thanks to Pinsider &amp;quot;Mneubey&amp;quot;)&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11n_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11 (nothing) sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Resistors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R21 is 12K in 11B, 15K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R22 is 22K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R19 is 56K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R16 is 180K in 11B, 56K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R17 is 270K in 11B, 220K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R15 is 180K in 11B, 43K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R20 is 12K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Capacitors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C10 is 470pf in 11B, 1800pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C11 is 100pf in 11B, 180pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C12 is 470pf in 11B, 1200pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C13 is 4700pf in 11B, 4700pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11b_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11B sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Board D-11581 Mixer Section Resistor Values =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D11581ResistorValues.jpg|500px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Mixer&amp;quot; section resistor values across D-11581 sound board games. &#039;&#039;Data courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A through 11C sound boards were populated with different resistor values. The table shown at left details the differences between the sound mixing sections for each game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the value of R13 will change also. It should be 4.99K for &amp;quot;Fire!&amp;quot; through &amp;quot;Police Force&amp;quot;, and 10K for all other games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Some Music or Garbled Music with a D-11581 Sound Board and 5 Bongs=====&lt;br /&gt;
A sound board booting with 5 bongs indicates a failure of the U20 ROM. While U20 could, in fact, have failed, 5 bongs could also mean that the software can&#039;t access U20. In one such case where 5 bongs were heard, during music test, tests 4 and 6 would play music but the music was garbled and/or incorrect. The root cause was W10/W11 jumper settings on the sound board that didn&#039;t match the ROM size. W10/W11 should be set to the left for 27256 ROMs; to the right for 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Modifying a pre-System 11C Sound Board to use 27512 ROMs (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. Note that W3 is &amp;quot;always IN&amp;quot;. The solder mask over the W3 jumper trace has been removed for clarity. Normally the trace is covered by a dashed white silkscreen line.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3Modified.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. W3 has been cut to enable use of 27512 ROMs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some revisions of the D-11581 sound board will not accept 27512 sound ROMs without modification. By the time that revision C was manufactured, jumpers W10 and W11 were added above U20 to enable use of larger ROMs. Prior to that, jumpers W2 and W3 were implemented, but were of little use since both jumpers tied A15 (pin 1) of each EPROM to +5VDC. Making the modification pictured at right, then installing jumper W2, enables the use of 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jokerz specific sound issue=====&lt;br /&gt;
A special case of interference is present on the Jokerz game, which uses a unique stereo sound board.  A deficiency in its design prevents all of the noise from being eliminated from the board.  Details can be found in the original Williams service bulletin here: [http://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf Jokerz service bulletin at IPDB.org]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Whirlwind Doesn&#039;t play Sound 7 During Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
This particularly annoying issue appears to have no impact during gameplay. The only manifestation is that &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot;, sound 7 doesn&#039;t play. The normal sound is an explosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This issue is caused by old game ROM versions at U26 and U27. Revision PA1 doesn&#039;t send the command to the sound subsystem to play sound 7, even though sound 7 is displayed on the alphanumeric display. Updating U26/U27 to &amp;quot;LA3&amp;quot; as can be found at www.ipdb.org will correct this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:YT.png]] Correct Whirlwind sounds are demonstrated in a YouTube video found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Board Theory of Operation (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated and including jumpers W10 and W11]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Major components of the D-11581 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*68B09E externally clocked CPU, which is also used in all WPC MPU and pre-DCS sound boards&lt;br /&gt;
*68B21 Peripheral Interface Adapter, capable of running at 2Mhz&lt;br /&gt;
*Up to 3 ROMs. All boards can accommodate 27256 ROMs. Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
*6116 RAM (2K bytes). Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate a 6264 RAM (8K bytes)&lt;br /&gt;
*YM2151 sound synthesizer paired with the YM3012 DAC (outputs channel 1 and channel 2)&lt;br /&gt;
*55516 CVSD (continuously variable slope delta) audio encoder, which provides a 3rd audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*1408 DAC (digital to analog converter), which provides a 4th audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*Various 74XX ICs that perform address decoding and chip selection logic&lt;br /&gt;
*1458 pre-amplifiers and TDA2002 amplifiers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11581 sound board shares a lot of board design and architecture of the pre-DCS sound board that was introduced with WPC games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power requirements for the board are supplied via connector J3. The typical sound board power levels are required, 5VDC, 12VDC, -12VDC, and Ground. Three 100uf capacitors reduce noise on the power busses along with several small ceramic caps which filter high frequency noise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Reset&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The on board 68B09E is reset via the external reset signal provided by the MPU board, via connection J4, pin 18. If attempting to operate the board without the MPU board connected, the processor must be manually reset via momentarily grounding pin 37 of the 68B09E.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Clocking&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clocking signal for the board originates at the 8Mhz crystal oscillator. U16, a 74LS74 Dual D-Type FlipFlop divides the clock signal yielding both the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Q&amp;quot;clock signal. E and Q are phase shifted by one half clock cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chip Select Logic&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chip select is accomplished via the normal &amp;quot;memory mapped I/O&amp;quot; method, using U14 (74LS139) and U15 (74LS138). &lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for all three ROMs (U4, U19, U20) is implemented by U14.&lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for the RAM (U5), YM2151 (U3), and the 6821 (U12) is implemented by U15.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;How sounds are produced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are provided via J4, a dual row .100 connector of 20 pins. These sound selects are held &amp;quot;normally high&amp;quot; via a 4.7K/470pf 10-pin bussed SIP pull-up resistor/capacitor (SR1) tied to 5VDC. These SIP resistor/capacitor parts are no longer available. A bussed 4.7K 9-pin resistor network can be used as a replacement. The capacitor feature of the original part filtered high frequency noise from the communication lines. In practice, noise doesn&#039;t impact the interface significantly enough to be of concern.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board will pull the appropriate sound select signals to ground via the 6821 PIA at Uxx. When the appropriate signals are pulled to ground, the PIA is programmed to interrupt the 68B09E processor via the FIRQ and NMI signals. The 68B09E then reads the sound select signals presented at the 6821s input port (PB0 through PB7) via the processor data bus (D0 through D7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor then employs the 4 sound channels available to it, along with encoded sound files contained in the ROM images, to create the intended sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Where Do The Sounds Come From?====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections can be used to ensure that all sounds are played by the Williams combined MPU and Sound Board System.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Comet|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-2m7vKCeg2A Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Sorcerer || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pXacwGqv5C4 Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Shuttle || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/B-gsuEw1jgU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Cats || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-JJKPvMBplg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bally Game Show || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/vwA4FST62ug Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Banzai Run || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/6D87Z2iUsv0?si=x8BKbDsxHFI_yodb Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight 2000 || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/uyJlxc2ewtY Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Cyclone || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pEdSxFu1Zio Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Diner || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rwCLpG5jU2I Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Earthshaker || [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eH0FVvbBQUQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Elvira &amp;amp; the Party Monsters || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/OS_SRCNaMwg?si=6Wop4YLK2wa6Mco4 Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| F-14 Tomcat || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rG26I-oDK6E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Fire! || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/dXKRw1GqUcQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| High Speed || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/yAmJzD9EAZA Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| PinBot || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/CoVvhwggLfU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Police Force || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/Em63v0-zJKk?si=gt3qD2jLsqJFdwlW Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Pool Sharks || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/gceZEgLMaDQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Rollergames || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/tN-Ns9eh8Pg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Station || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/9XERXpVGCsY?si=jSNjikeN1nM6GeQy Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Swords of Fury || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/u6baQrse5LI?si=3Y85cpAXqDF5_Qis Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Taxi || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/P7DIs5djK-E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Whirlwind|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Circuit Schematics Error ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Correct wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems Incorrect.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Incorrect wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.  Some of the early System 11 manuals show incorrect wiring for the EOS switch.  One of the EOS switch wires should be soldered to the center lug of the coil.  However, the other wire should be soldered to the lug with the non-banded side (anode) of the diode, not the lug with the banded side (cathode) of the diode.  Manuals which have this misinformation are High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings. Millionaire and Pinbot appear to be fine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Electrical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;50V Flipper Power Board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;Aux Power Supply&amp;quot; board that was introduced with these games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and 11 flipper circuitry is identical to all prior Williams System 3-7 games. The design had not changed from even the old electro-mechanical flipper implementation when the End of Stroke switch was introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yes, Williams used serial wound coils from High Speed to Millionaire and then converted to parallel wound coils beginning with F-14 TomCat and throughout the rest of the System 11 run and into the WPC run. But the basic operation of System 9/11 coils remained &amp;quot;EM-like&amp;quot; whether serial or parallel wound.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are only three switches that can affect the electrical operation of a System 11 flipper, including strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Switches inside the Flipper Enable relay (K1), located on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The cabinet flipper button switches.&lt;br /&gt;
#An End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch associated with each flipper coil and integrated into the flipper mechanism assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Series Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the flipper coil. The EOS switch is closed, creating a short across the low power windngs, that removes resistance of the low power windings from the circuit. Only the smaller number of high power windings are &amp;quot;in circuit&amp;quot; with the EOS switch closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at the low resistance high power windings of the coil. The coil plunger is pulled into the coil and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, removing the short across the low power windings, and placing them in series along with the high power windings. Together, the total resistance of the coil becomes the sum of both the low power and the high power windings. With more windings, the coil will have higher resistance and hence, lower power. The combined high resistance windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelWoundFlipperDiagram.jpg|left|400px|thumb|Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Diagram courtesy of Chris Hibler.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the low power windings of the flipper coil. And, since the EOS switch is closed, the high power windings also have a path to ground. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;both&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; of the coil parallel windings. Since electrical current &amp;quot;takes the path of least resistance&amp;quot; the lower resistance high power winding takes most of the current and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, breaking the path to ground for the high power windings. The high resistance low power windings remain in circuit, and provide &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; power to the flipper coil. The high resistance low power windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Mechanical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Return springs&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured nylon bushing&lt;br /&gt;
*Insufficient gap between nylon bushing and crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat damaged coil&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil sleeve&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil stop&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper shaft slipping within crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Others?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 Display Single AlphaNumeric Character Won&#039;t Light===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11B Bridged Header.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A solder bridge on the &amp;quot;digit strobe&amp;quot; connector.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the category of &amp;quot;things that will make you crazy&amp;quot;, the solder bridge pictured at left shorted pins 8 and 9 on the connector that carries the digit strobes to a System 11 display. This prevented one of the digits on the display from ever lighting. It&#039;s always a good idea to examine prior work closely. Assuming the prior tech knew what they were doing is not always valid.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a System 6/7 Speech Board in a Comet===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 CPU with 2732 Speech.JPG|300px|left|thumb|A Modified System 6/7 Speech Board Functioning with a System 9 CPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should the need arise, a System 6/7 speech board can be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified to use 2732 EPROMs] for a Comet.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a Data East MPU Board in a System 11 Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Whaaaat?!?!  Yes, a Data East MPU can be used in a Williams or Bally System 11 game.  However, this is limited to System 11C games only, and only a DE 520-5003-03 (Version 3) MPU can be used.  The reason for this limitation is because games previous to 11C have some or all of the sound section circuitry on the MPU board populated, the 11C does not.  Likewise, DE boards do not have any sound section circuitry located on them by design.  The board swap is not a simple drop in replacement though.  Some minor modifications have to be performed for the DE board to function properly in an 11C game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first hurdle is to properly power the DE board.  Connection 1J17 is where power originates on the 11C board.  The complimentary connection on a DE board is CN17.  The problem is that these connections are keyed differently between the two boards.  1J17 has a key at pin 7, while the key on CN17 is at pin 8.  The safest way to make a connection to CN17 with the 11C game harness is to remove pin 7 on the DE board.  This will have no ill effect, if the DE board is to be placed back into a DE game.  The worst case scenario if pin 7 is removed and the board placed back into a DE game is that the CN17 connector housing could be installed off by one pin, thus shorting the +5v to ground, and blowing the logic voltage fuse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Jumpers for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Correct jumper setting on DE MPU for 11C game ROMs]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Special Solenoid Wire Swap for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Addition harness and Z-connector installed to correct special solenoid drive outputs]]&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the game ROM jumpers have to be set correctly.  Since all 11C games use dual ROMs, jumper setting J4 must be in on the DE MPU, while J5 is out.  Install the 11C game ROMS in the following positions.  U27 (ROM 1) is to be inserted into the 5C socket, while U26 (ROM 2) is installed into the 5B socket.  Notch on the chip / socket is facing to the right.  There is an alternative method.  The code for the dual ROMs can be burned into a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Burning_Dual_ROMs_into_a_Single_5C_ROM single 27512 EPROM.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, there is a problem with how DE boards poll the special solenoid drivers differently than 11C boards.  Two of the drivers are correct (solenoids 17 and 21), while the four others are mismatched.  To overcome this problem, either a harness can be created (DE board to 11C harness) with a Z-connector installed between 1J19 and the game harness, or the 7-pin housing (the 9-pin housing at 1J19 is split with a 2-pin housing and a 7-pin housing) at 1J19 can be repinned.  The benefit of building a harness and adding a Z-connector is that it is easily reversible, if an 11C board is to be placed back into the game at a future time.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following wires will have to be connected to 1J19 / CN19 on the DE board for the game to function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Stock Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Swapped Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || ORG-VIO || ORG-VIO  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || ORG-GRY || ORG-GRY  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || BLU-ORG || BLU-YEL  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || BLU-RED || BLU-ORG  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || Key || None  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || BLU-YEL || BLU-BLK  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || BLU-BRN || BLU-BRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || BLU-GRN || BLU-GRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || BLU-BLK || BLU-RED  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane at Game Start (Pinbot) ===&lt;br /&gt;
Trough and shooter lane switches test alright in switch test.  Ball feeder coil from trough to shooter lane tests fine in solenoid test.  If the motor for the visor is disconnected, and the visor does not cycle at the start of the game, the ball will not kick to the shooter lane.  This may be an issue if one or both of the visor switches are not recognized too.  Not certain what code revision this particular game was running.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane and Drop Target Will Not Reset (Cyclone) ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone UnderPF Fuse 1A 5A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Fuse under the playfield of a Cyclone, which powers solenoids 1A and 5A]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Both the outhole solenoid (1a) and drop target reset solenoid (5a) are the only multiplexed 24v coils in Cyclone.  The power wires for these coils are brown.  For some reason, Williams decided it would be a good idea to put a fuse under the playfield for these coils &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(which is not included in the documentation)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.  The fuse/fuseholder is located just to the right of the spook house subway.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids Are Not Pulsed During Solenoid Test on System 9 Games===&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the enabling switch associated with the special solenoid device.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU energizes a coil 5 times===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Police Force&#039;&#039;&#039; - After the pinball is switched on the ramp diverter coil engages 5 times. After the game start the diverter coil engages 5 times again. Diverter mechanism doesn&#039;t hold in position. So after the coil is energized the mechanism falls back and so the switch is closed again. Then the software tries another 4 times to resolve the problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; Clean the diverter mechanism and in particular the plastic. Lubricate the plastic lanes!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Elvira and the Party Monsters drop target reset coil blows the lamp matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
The drop target reset coil should be mounted with the solder tabs down. If mounted with the solder tabs up, (toward the playfield) the solder tabs can contact the J-A-M lamp sockets. This blows the lamp matrix ICs on the MPU board by sending coil voltage through the lamp matrix.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=24924</id>
		<title>Williams System 9 - 11</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=24924"/>
		<updated>2025-02-01T21:07:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Testing for Battery Backup Power at the RAM (U25) */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms sys9 boardset.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 Board Set from Space Shuttle]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingBackbox.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 (nothing) Board Set from High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Boardset.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 11A Board Set from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Jokerz Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11b Board Set from Jokerz! (Note that power supply is a prototype)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sy11B Boardset.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11b Board Set from Transporter the Rescue]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11C_Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|System 11c Board Set from Rollergames]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams system 7 boardset was replaced in 1984 with the system 9 boardset, and then again in 1985 with the system 11 boardset.  Combining the driver board, sound board, and cpu directly onto one board eliminated several design deficiencies of the earlier 3-7 boardsets; mainly the 40 pin interconnector, and extra wiring harness inter-board connectors.  Larger ROMs could be fitted directly onto the boards allowing for more complex rulesets and sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 and System 11 board sets are not 100% compatible. With a fair amount of effort, a System 11 board could be made compatible with a System 9, but it is not worth the extended effort to change the jumpers. It&#039;s far easier to just modify the rom images so that they are plug and play when installed in a System 11 CPU. You can find them already on the ipdb. The primary differences between the System 9 and System 11 board sets are the sound system and rom space.&lt;br /&gt;
(add more info later)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As time went on, the System 11 board set underwent some changes too.  The power supply, sound board, and CPU / driver board have minor changes.  More apparent was the addition of circuit boards.  Starting with the 11a board set, a more complex sound board was added (System 11 sound boards are strictly background sounds only).  Later in the System 11 series, sound functions were partially (11B) or fully removed (11C) from the MPU, and eventually were solely handled by a dedicated sound board. Game-specific interconnect boards and auxiliary power driver boards were introduced in System 11B games.  The interconnect boards acted as a pass-through for switch, lamp, flasher, and solenoid signal lines and circuits. It also allowed circuits with different voltages to share the same power source by using current limiting resistors to drop voltages to the appropriate levels.  All general illumination fuses were moved to this board.  The auxiliary power driver board has the AC relay, which finally centralized the location of it.  Likewise, several fuses, beefier TIP36C transistors, and bridge rectifiers are centralized on the auxiliary power driver board.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|Strike Zone|| 1984 || 1916  || unknown || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light|| 06-1984 || 530 || no speech || || 5610-09563-00 || only a few were made with System 9 boards inside&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Space Shuttle|| 12-1984 || 535 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sorcerer|| 03-1985 || 532 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet|| 06-1985 || 540 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alley Cats|| 10-1985 || 1918 || Unknown ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[High Speed]]|| 01-1986 || 541 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grand Lizard|| 04-1986 || 523 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Road Kings|| 07-1986 || 542 || D-11197-542 (Background music only)  || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinbot|| 10-1986 || 549 || D-11297-549 (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tic Tac Strike|| 11-1986 || 1919 || Unknown ||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Millionaire|| 01-1987 || 555 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11298-555.JPG | D-11298-555]] (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|F-14 Tomcat|| 03-1987 || 554 || D-11298-554 (Used on 1st 5,000 games - Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound) / D-11581-554 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire!|| 08-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire! Champagne Edition|| 09-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
!Aux Power Driver&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big Guns|| 10-1987 || 557 || D-11581-557 || D-8345-557 || D-11583-557 || C-11762 || Uses D-11814 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Space Station]]|| 12-1987 || 552 || D-11581-552 || D-8345-557  || D-11813-552 || C-11762-552 || Uses D-11814-552 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Mine|| 01-1988 || 1920 || None || D-8345-1914 || None || None ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone|| 02-1988 || 564 ||[[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG | D-11581-564]]  || D-8345-557  ||  D-11813-574 || C-11762-564|| Uses D-11814-564 Flash Lamp Resistor Board  || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run|| 05-1988 || 566 || D-11581-566 || D-8345-566 ||D-12247-566 || D-12112 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Swords of Fury]]|| 06-1988 || 559 || D-11581-559 || D-8345-557 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-559 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Taxi|| 08-1988 || 553 || D-11581-553 || D-12246-553 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-553 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Top Dawg|| 11-1988 || 1921 || None || D-12246 || None || D-12313-1921 || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jokerz!|| 12-1988 || 567 || D-12338-567 || D-12246 ||  D-12247-559|| D-12313-567 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Earthshaker]]|| 02-1989 || 568 || [[Media:System 11 Sound Board.JPG | D-11581-568]] || D-12246-568 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-568|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight 2000]]|| 04-1989 || 563 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-585.JPG | D-11581-585]] || D-12246 || D-12247-563 || D-12313-563|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Transporter the Rescue|| 04-1989 || 2008 || D-11581-2008 || D-12246  || D-12247-2008|| D-12313-2008 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Police Force|| 08-1989 || 573 || D-11581-573 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-573|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Shuffle Inn|| 10-1989 || 1922 || None (assumed) || D-12246 (assumed) || None || D-12313-1922 (assumed)||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Elvira and the Party Monsters|| 10-1989 || 2011 || D-11581-2011 || D-12246 || D-12247-2011|| D-12313-2011 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats|| 11-1989 || 575 || D-11581-575 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-575|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mousin&#039; Around!|| 12-1989 || 2009 || D-11581-2009 || D-12246 ||D-12247-2009 || D-12313-2209 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Whirlwind]]|| 01-1990 || 574 || D-11581-574 || D-12246 || D-12247-574 ||D-12313-574 || Uses a C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board to control 5 extra devices || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11C===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Bally Game Show|| 04-1990 || 2003 || D-11581-2003 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2003 || Uses a C-13286 Sound Overlay Lamp Board || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pool Sharks|| 06-1990 || 2014 || D-11581-2014 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2014 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Rollergames]]|| 06-1990 || 576 || D-11581-576 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-576 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner|| 09-1990 || 571 || D-11581-571 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-571 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Radical!|| 09-1990 || 2015 || D-11581-2015 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2015 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude|| 11-1990 || 2016 || D-11581-2016 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2016 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Riverboat Gambler]]|| 11-1990 || 50007 || D-11581-50007 w/ 512K ROMS (assumed) || D-12313-50007|| || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball|| 01-1991 || 20009 || D-11581-20009 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-20009 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Documentation Errors====&lt;br /&gt;
* Error on the [[High_Speed#MPU_Schematics_Error_for_U21_.26_U22|MPU I/O signals for U21 / U22 of High Speed]].&lt;br /&gt;
* [[#Flipper_Circuit_Schematics_Error|Flipper Circuit Schematics Error]] in the manuals for High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Details for board and cabinet schematics System 9-11 games can be found in the game manual or parts catalogs. Some copies can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball] or on [http://www.ipdb.org/ IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Troubleshooting &amp;amp; Reference Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|69-8955 (April 21, 1986)&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-pinball-troubleshooting-reference-manual_16-8955_sys9.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet, High Speed, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
|System 9 games. Also includes Strike Zone shuffle alley game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|D-11581 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Parts Catalogs===&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Parts catalogs also had supplementary updates to add and replace pages as newer games were released after the initial release of the catalogs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1986-1989)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/rvsk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-blue-book_16-9064-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Black Knight 2000, Comet, Cyclone, Earthshaker!, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Jokerz!, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Police Force, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (1989-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/feme/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-red-book_16-9190-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Dracula, Fish Tales, Funhouse, The Getaway, Hurricane, The Machine, Riverboat Gambler, Rollergames, Slugfest, Terminator 2, Whirlwind, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/itjk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Bally-midway-parts-catalog-yellow-book_16-9147-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Atlantis, Black Rose, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Dr. Who, Elvira, Game Show, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Party Zone, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Supplementary service bulletin books were released, which included service bulletins that detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1989&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-Service-Bulletin-Book-1989-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1989.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone, Bonzai Run, Taxi, Earthshaker, Truck Stop, Transporter&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1990&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1990-service-bulletin-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1990.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner, Police Force, Pool Sharks, Rollergames&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1991-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude, Jokerz, Riverboat Gambler&lt;br /&gt;
|This book includes some WPC games&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 eliminated a huge issue with the earlier system 3 through 7 boardsets, the 40 pin interconnect between the MPU and Driver boards.  All circuitry previously separated into MPU, driver, and sound boards was combined into a single MPU board. Satellite boards were still used for displays, speech, and solenoid expansion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with &#039;&#039;&#039;Big Guns&#039;&#039;&#039;, Williams introduced another weak link into their system, the interconnect board. Initial implementations were used to disperse the general illumination between the playfield and backbox. The connectors on interconnect boards were prone to overheating and failure just like prior implementations. At the same time, flash lamp resistor boards were being used. These were created to collocate all of the flashlamp current limiting resistors, and eliminate under playfield flashlamp resistor boards, which had proven themselves problematic in the high heat, high vibration environment under the playfield. Resistors often desoldered themselves and/or vibrated so much that the connection fractured. Flash lamp resistor boards were only used on three games:  Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone. In addition to the interconnect and the flash lamp resistor board, the auxiliary power driver board made its appearance. The auxiliary power driver board housed all of the high current transistors (TIP36c), solenoid and flasher fuses (including discrete flipper fuses), the AC select relay, and the solenoid power bridge rectifiers. The auxiliary power driver board did go through some minor changes, but it was functionally equivalent through the last System 11C game.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Banzai Run, a more standardized interconnect board was created. This interconnect board merged the general illumination interconnect with the flasher driver board. Switch and lamp circuits passed directly through this board as a matter of manufacturing convenience. Later interconnect boards added 3 opto couplers to indicate when the flippers and AC relay were activated (the same circuitry as used in the flipper power section of the WPC-089 -1 Power/Driver board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest advantages of the system 11 board set is its ability to switch one set of coil driver transistors between 2 sets of coils/flashers. This is accomplished via a relay on a separate board called the A/C select relay (the A/C select relay was eventually moved to the auxiliary power driver board starting with Big Guns). The theory is that coils that are less frequently activated will be on the A side of the relay, and that flashers will be on the C side of the relay.  Most of the time during gameplay, the C side is active, enabling the flashers. If the driver transistor for the A/C select relay itself shorts, the relay defaults to the coil side, allowing the game to continue to operate in a reasonable fashion (usually the A side coils are the ball shooter lane, drop target resets, VUK - basically coils that don&#039;t need to be able to operate 100% of the time unlike a slingshot coil or pop bumper coil).  Data East&#039;s board set was essentially a copy of the system 11 board set, but Data East programmed it the opposite way, so that the flasher side of the A/C select relay is active by default. Data East games, when the A/C relay doesn&#039;t operate, just sits there and flashes lamps instead of playing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and early System 11 games do share a disadvantage with the earlier 3-7 board sets, they still utilize special solenoid circuitry. The pops and slings on system 9/11 games do not activate via a switch which is seen by the MPU&#039;s program which fires the coil. Instead, the switches directly fire their associated coils via logic gates on the main board. The main disadvantage with this system is that the solenoids fire continuously as long as their activation switch is closed. A locked on sling or pop will burn out components quickly. It is recommended to add a 1, 1.5, or 2 amp inline fuse to each coil on a directly fired system 11 game. Usually just the pops and slings are direct fired coils. However, other coils were designated to the special solenoids. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games did not use the direct fire solenoid switches. Switches on the switch matrix were used instead. To easily identify games which do not use direct fire solenoid switches, IJ18 on the MPU board will not have a harness connection attached to it.  Likewise, the slingshots and pop bumpers will no longer have a set of scoring switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One way that System 9 games differ from the previous 3-7 board set is that the special solenoids are not controlled by the CPU at all. In other words, the special solenoids are not pulsed during solenoid test, as the physical board architecture does allow for this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The software in system 9-11 games continued with the same machine architecture from system 6 and 7, except for the special solenoids as mentioned above. More ram became available, up to 2k, but no game used over 800 bytes. This is likely due to the lower cost of 6264 RAM than 6116 RAM as was used in early System 9-11 games more than any other reason. Additional diagnostics in the form of switch error checking appeared in system 11. Any switch not activated over 30 games (16 games for flipper switches) would cause an error to be called out at power on. The software was able to compensate for broken switches by designating another switch to perform the same function as the broken switch.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9MPU.jpg |300px|thumb|left|System 9 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9MPUFactoryMod.jpg |300px|thumb|right|These high frequency filter capacitors were added at the factory, and are normal. Their purpose is the snub high frequency noise in the Advance and Auto Up/Down coin door button circuits.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 9 MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a single version of the System 9 MPU in all System 9 games. A few minor modifications to the board may have been made, but it&#039;s essentially the same board for the entire 3 game run of Space Shuttle, Sorcerer, and Comet. The picture at left shows an early board that featured two inductors (copper wound coils that &amp;quot;smooth&amp;quot; DC power) at L1 and L2, adjacent to connector 1J17. Later revisions of the board used &amp;quot;zero ohm&amp;quot; jumpers instead, presumably to reduce cost.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUFront.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 10 MPU component side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUBack.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Williams System 10 MPU solder side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams released a single game using an MPU board designated &#039;&#039;&#039;System 10&#039;&#039;&#039;. The game &amp;quot;4-in-1&amp;quot; ([https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=4-in-1&amp;amp;sortby=name&amp;amp;search=Search+Database&amp;amp;searchtype=quick IPDB link]) was released in 1985 and is more like Pachinko than pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From the Internet Pinball Database:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;&amp;quot;This game is known in Williams documentation as &amp;quot;4-IN-1&amp;quot; but that name never appears on the game itself. A total of 100 games were produced. Each came with four interchangeable playfield overlays for the themes of Baseball, Poker, Football, and Soccer. The operator could change the overlay and Instruction Card, re-option switches, and have a new game in the same cabinet.&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11&#039;&#039;&#039; games used one of four different revisions of the System 11 MPU. The first version of the System 11 MPU was completely self-contained, able to make game sounds on the board. A simple background sound board was used to add some game sounds. Between the baseline revision of the System 11 MPU and the last revision of the MPU (System 11C) incrementally more of the sound processing and sound circuitry was removed from the board (not stuffed).  None of the System 11 shuffle alley games use a separate sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem11CPU.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early System 11 (nothing) MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingLater.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Later System 11 (nothing) MPU. Note extensive alkaline corrosion abatement, NVRAM install, and use of modern reset generator. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11 (nothing) MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This picture shows the early System 11 MPU. A later revision of this MPU, pictured at right, has an additional jumper W16 located between the 7 segment diagnostic display and the relay, and a 4.7K ohm resistor between the 7447 and the resistor DIP. The early PCB on the left has a trace routing error to the sound ribbon cable connector. If you use it with a later system 11A sound card you will get no sound because the sound card doesn&#039;t get reset properly. If you wonder why your High Speed doesn&#039;t beep when turning it on this one is also the culprit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11ZenerDiodeAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes added to the back of the System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were added to the layout of the PCB in subsequent revisions of the board (11A, etc).]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|right|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) incorporated into the board layout and stuffed at the factory on a later board revision. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows six 6.2V zener diodes added to the solder side of a System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were left off the factory silkscreen of the board. Later revisions of the System 11 MPU added them to the component side of the board. Their purpose is to protect the special solenoid switch inputs. Either a ZPY6,2/ZD6,2/1N4735A (1 watt) or ZF5,2/1N5234B (1/2 watt) can be used. This mod is purely optional. In reality the diode doesn&#039;t help much if you short the switch input with the solenoid voltage. In this case the diode and the 7402 are usually damaged and need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, if the System 11 (nothing) MPU is used in a System 11A game or later, pins 6 and 7 of the adjacent connector (J18) must be tied to the ground plane at the edge of the board. These pins provide the ground for the special solenoids. Without the modification they do not work. Some early System 11A pins might not need the mod. If unsure just check if a cable is connected to pin 6 or 7 in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A-PB.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A rare prototype System 11a MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11aTransitionVersion.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Blanking, 5VDC, and Diagnostic LEDs factory installed in a &amp;quot;transition&amp;quot; vintage System 11a MPU. The prior version 7447 (U48) and resistor DIP (U47) has been replaced with a 7407, discrete resistors and LEDs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11TransitionTag.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A prototype System 11a MPU with original label]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11a &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Prototype&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This MPU was only used in Pin Bot. It&#039;s actually a System 11 (nothing) MPU PCB layout, with the  7 segment LED display replaced at the factory with 3 LEDs as used in all later System 11 MPUs (11A/B/C). The latest trace revision of this board also has the ground mod (connect 1J18, pins 6 and 7 to board ground) allowing it to work in any 11A/B/C game without modification. According to a friend it was referred to by the name of 11a instead of 11A by distributors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A late production System 11A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11A MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11A MPU can be used in all System 11 games. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and possibly the amplifier section must be stuffed. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board. On early production system 11A boards, the amplifier section was fully stuffed, just like the original System 11 board. Later in the production of System 11A boards, the amplifier section was not stuffed, just like an 11B board. But unlike System 11B boards, the System 11A board still has the same switch section layout as the original System 11 MPU, making it easy to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 CPU Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11B MPU. Note that a large portion of the sound circuitry, including the TDA2002 amp, was not stuffed in late System 11A boards or any System 11B MPU boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11B MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11B MPU can be used in all System 11 games too. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and all of the sound amplification components must be added to the board. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11C.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C MPU. Note that none of the sound circuitry, including the 6802 processor and 6821 PIA, is stuffed in System 11C MPU boards. All sounds were generated by the sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11C MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11C MPU can be used only in System 11C games since none of the sound processing circuitry was stuffed.  It can be used in games prior to 11C, if the sound section is populated.  However, some of the components needed are rare and / or costly, and there are a fair amount to install.  If there is no other choice but to use this board, it is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU9211.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU004.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The RottenDog &amp;quot;MPU004&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU with sound section overlay]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;RottenDog MPU9211 and MPU004 Aftermarket MPUs&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU9211 (shown at left) was designed to support all Williams System 9 - 11 games. How well the board works across that great breadth of games is somewhat questionable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CVSD used on this board is a CMX639D4 produced by CML Microcircuits. It replaces the 55516 (or 55536) CVSD used at U3 on original System 9 - 11 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU004 (shown at right) was an earlier design thought to support all Data East and System 11 games. Again, how well the board accomplishes this for Williams games is questionable. A significant source of confusion on this board (like all RottenDog boards with DIP switches) is that the DIP switches are labeled opposite of traditional labeling. That is, set all switches to OFF for Williams games, ON for Data East games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDWilliams9211LaterRev.jpg |300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU, later revision]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A later revision of the RottenDog 9211 MPU included a second trim POT to adjust the balance between 1408 DAC sounds and 55536 CVSD sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Picture of the lamp column portion of the lamp matrix of a System 9 MPU board.  Note that the TIP42 drive transistors were removed from this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The lamp matrix is made up of two parts - the lamp columns (drives) and lamp rows (returns).  In most cases, the lamp row consists of eight 2N5060 over-current shunt SCR&#039;s and eight TIP122 drive transistors, while the lamp column consists of eight 2N6427 predrive transistors (WMS sometimes used MPS-A14 instead) and eight TIP42 or TIP42C transistors.  However, there are some instances, as shown in the pic to the left, where the predrive transistors for the lamp columns are 2N6548s.  It is unknown why Williams chose to use these transistors on occasion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The over-current shunt circuit on the lamp row (returns) works by sensing the voltage drop across the 0.4 ohm, 3 Watt resistor on emitter of the TIP122 driver transistor. If a short circuit is present in the lamp row, the short circuit current will result in a higher than normal voltage drop across the emitter resistor. This voltage will trigger the gate of the 2N5060 SCR, causing it to turn on and shunt the base drive to the TIP122 transistor. This will turn off the driver transistor and prevent damage due to excessive current. Note that an RC circuit consisting of a 0.1uF capacitor and 1K ohm resistor is present on the gate of the SCR. This prevents a false trigger of the over-current shunt circuit due to an initial peak current from cold lamp filaments.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Switch Matrix Explained=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System9SwitchMatrix.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The System 9 Switch Matrix circuitry, as found in the Sorcerer manual.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Description&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At regular intervals, say 1 every msec or so, the 6808 microprocessor scans the switch matrix. This is done by pulling one switch column to ground, then sensing the switch row return state. Each row on which ground is detected means that the switch at the intersection of the column grounded and the detected row ground, is closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Hardware Detail&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 writes the column data to the address location occupied by the 6821 at U15 on the board. This causes the 6821 output registers (PB0 – PB7) to propagate the data to a 74LS244 octal buffer at U45. The 74LS244 mirrors that same data at it&#039;s output pins. The data pattern on these output pins will have all bits set to logic “1” except one bit, which will be set to logic zero, or electrical ground. The ground is applied to the base of a 2N3904 transistor (which had been held high by a 4.7K SIP pull-up resistor SR8) where the ground is applied to the switch column (called switch matrix drives on the schematic).&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Closed switches connected to that column will then cause the normally high (via yet another pull up resistor, SR16) gate at a 74LS08 quad NAND gate (U51 and U52) to be pulled to ground. This NAND gate enables the circuitry to detect a switch closure returned via either connector 1J9 or 1J10.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 then “reads” the row returns by reading from the address space occupied by the same 6821 at U15 used to pulse the column strobes earlier. This time it reads 6821 registers PA0 – PA7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the processor knows which column it drew to ground, and it knows which rows were caused to be pulled to ground via closed switches attached to the column. From this information, the closed switches can be identified. Genius. Bania: “I&#039;m tellin&#039; ya Jerry, this switch matrix stuff is gold Jerry, it&#039;s gold!”.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch diode isolates the switch in the matrix. Without this isolation diode, multiple simultaneous switch closures will cause false returns and confuse the processor. A switch diode that is open will always prevent a switch from registering, in the same way that a broken wire or failed open switch would.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jumper Settings and Locations for System 9 &amp;amp; 11 MPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are charts of the jumpers on System 9 &amp;amp; 11 boards.  Rather than listing the boards by their platform (System 11A/B/C), each chart is listed by the numbers stenciled on the circuit boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10749-00 REV. C (System 9)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W2, W5, W6, W7, W9, &amp;amp; W12.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1 / W2|| Below U12  || Microprocessor Internal RAM Enable. W1 IN, W2 OUT when using 6802, reverse when using 6808 || U12 RAM can be removed with 6802 and W1 installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W3||  ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Left of U49 || Country jumper. Remove for German factory settings, add for US factory settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U5 || Along with W7, used to send +12V to opto rows   || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U5 || Along with W6, used to send +12V to opto rows  || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +12v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W9|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +5v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10|| Below U50  || Installed - sounds from CPU board can be played without speech board attached  || Typically not installed, except Strike Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W11|| Below U37 ||  Used when U19 game ROM 2 is used || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| Below U36 || Used to increase U20 game ROM 1 size from 2764 to 27128 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. - (Typically System 11)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, &amp;amp; W7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U48 || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. B (Typically System 11 - Referred to as Prototype System 11a in text above)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU    || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Blanking signal to input &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; of U48 LED decoder chip  || not present on first pcb revision&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12091-00 REV. - (Typically System 11A)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| Below U23 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12206-00 REV. A (Typically System 11B &amp;amp; 11C)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U25  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U25  || only 2K will be used from the factory&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs ||  Remove for German text, add for English text || This jumper is not used in games with 16 digit score displays. Instead, install the U26 and U27 EPROMs for country and game. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| To the left of U24|| Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W18 || Below U23 || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U23 || only 2K will be used. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W19 || Below U23 || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U23 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Combining the System 9 Sound ROM Images====&lt;br /&gt;
Pinside user, &amp;quot;Dumbass&amp;quot;, has created replacement System 9 MPU boards.  One of the new things that he implemented in the board design is a daughterboard that can be mounted to the main MPU, which handles the speech duties.  Therefore, the speech board with its sometimes problematic ribbon cable no longer has to be used.  However, the sound and speech chip code now has to be combined together on a 27256 PROM, which is used at position U49.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
The file [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732] is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[File:Pad.zip]]. Below is how the code should be concatenated for it to work properly.  It is very similar to what is done for the System 9 code to be modified for a System 11 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Space Shuttle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = 0000h&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sorcerer&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = E67Fh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Comet&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum =  F9CCh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Converting the System 9 ROM Images to work in a System 11 MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to create System 11 compatible ROM images from System 9 ROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The file &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;[https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[file:Pad.zip]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 CPU works out of the box with a 27128 EPROM at location U27. You may choose to double the ROM image, creating a 27256 image so that its size is consistent with the other System 11 U27 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove jumper W8 and install jumper W9 on the System 11 CPU to enable sound to work properly. System 11 controls the sound reset via software. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Space Shuttle=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sorcerer=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u21.128 + cpu_u21.128 cpu_u21.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u22.128 + cpu_u22.128 cpu_u22.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.732 + cpu_u20.764 cpu_u20.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.l2.bin + cpu_u20.l2.bin cpu_u20.l2.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.l2.128 + cpu_u20.l2.128 cpu_u27.l2.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sorcerer is the only System 9 pinball game using 2 ROMs which make things complicated for repair. You can use the cpu_u20.128 image in a system 9 CPU jumpered for Space Shuttle or Comet. If you install W12 and remove W11 the CPU will be jumpered for a 27128 EPROM. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Comet=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 /b    &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech 2532.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board Using 2532 PROMs (from Space Shuttle)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|System 9 Speech Board Using 2732 PROMs (from Comet)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The speech board used in the three System 9 games, Space Shuttle, Sorcerer and Comet is essentially the same as the speech board used in System 6/7 games. However the speech board was enhanced during the Space Shuttle run. Four jumpers were added to accomodate either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs. When burning EPROMs, make certain which style of ROM is used.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Early Later.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board - Left unit is from early Space Shuttle, right is from later Space Shuttle]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Only the early Space Shuttles use 2532 EPROMs from the factory. Later Shuttles, Sorcerer and Comet use 2732 EPROMs.  The later speech board is backward compatible. If using such a board, either 2532s or 2732s can be used for the first two System 9 games (or System 6/7 games), provided that the jumpers are set for the appropriate EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the speech board generating speech sounds, it mixes the sound and speech signals via the potentiometer on the speech board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsSystem11BackgroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Background Sound board as found in High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11197 Road Kings Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11197 Background Sound board as found in Road Kings]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsD-11297BackGroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11297 Sound board as found in Pinbot, fully populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11298 Pinbot Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11298 Sound board as found in Pinbot. This version only has U4 populated (U19 is not).  Uncertain why U19 is needed.  Note that the CVSD &amp;quot;lane&amp;quot; of the board is not stuffed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System_11_Sound_Board.JPG|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound board, not completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D-11581-F14.jpg ‎|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound board, completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated, with W10/W11 Jumpers. W10/W11 enable use of 512K sound ROMs as found in all System 11C games like Game Show, Dr. Dude, Pool Sharks, Rollergames, Diner, Radical, and Bugs Bunny]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-12238 Jokerz Sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:JokerzSoundBoardPinOut.png|700px|thumb|right|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only - Connector PinOut]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581SchematicIcon.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Use hyperlink at right to open D-11581 sound board schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581PartsDelta.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Parts missing from partially populated D-11581 sound boards]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Link to:&#039;&#039;&#039; [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|Schematics for the D-11581 sound board]].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The parts shown at right represent the delta from a partially populated D-11581 to a fully populated D-11581. *The value of R13 will vary between 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms) and 10Kohms. If R14 and R15 are 10Kohms, then R13 should be 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms). If R14 and R15 are 20Kohms, then R13 should be 10Kohms.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem11PSPreBigGuns.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Pre-Taxi Power/Regulator Board. This power supply has had the header pins replaced and the 5V filter cap at C10 replaced. Note that this board has the 20A fuse for the GI still installed. This indicates that it is an early System 7 board. The fuse and it&#039;s holder should be replaced by a wire in all System 9 and 11 games]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_B.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply - Revision B (Pinbot)  Note that the top fuse holder just below the large 15000uF capacitor is broken on the left side]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These power supplies use obsolete parts at Q1 (SDS-201) and Q3 (SDS-202). The PCB print was used from Black Knight through Swords of Fury, with slight modifications. Up until and including Fire!, Q1 and Q3 were the obsolete SDS-201 and SDS-202. Starting with some Fire!, the board uses an MJE15030 at Q1 and an MJE15031 at Q3. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-201 at Q1 may be &amp;quot;6557&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9057S&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-202 at Q3 may be &amp;quot;MDS60&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9058S&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlyWMSPowerSupplyTraceRoutingErrorCloseUpAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of the corrected trace routing error on a Fire! power supply board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply (High Speed) Schematics.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There was a trace routing error on the original Fire! power supply pcbs. WMS cut the trace and used a jumper to correct the error. This error was corrected in the PCB layout at the start of &amp;quot;Big Guns&amp;quot; game production.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_E.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS Power Supply - Revision E (Cyclone)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Big Guns and games after, the solenoid and lamp power power sections were no longer stuffed because they were relocated to the Aux Power board. The GI relay is also missing on these boards because discrete GI relay boards were placed under the playfield and/or behind the backbox lamp insert.  By doing this, specific GI strings could be turned on/off versus &amp;quot;all or none&amp;quot; of the general illumination.  This later board has the fuses only for display and 5V power. In a pinch, the unstuffed parts could be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Big Guns, 2 100mA (1/10A) SB fuses are installed just to the left of the power supply in the backbox. These fuses protect the +100V and -100V circuits against shorts. Not all games used 1/10A slo-blo fuses. Some games used 1/8ASB fuses instead. This may have been due to 1/8ASB fuses being more readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics for this power supply also list part numbers MPSD52 and MPSD02. The equivalent part number for an MPSD52 is a 2N5401. The equivalent part number for an MPSD02 is a 2N5551.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Regulator Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSPSSchematic1503015031.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Schematics for Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used from Taxi thru the remainder of the System 11 game production. &lt;br /&gt;
Note that Taxi used an early revision of the board. The placement of some of the resistors and zener diodes in the HV section of that board is different from later boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===50V Flipper Power Supply Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Williams50VPowerSupply.jpg|300px|thumb|left|50VDC power supply as used in System 11 (nothing) and 11A games (C-9939).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games all used the 50V power supply board as pictured at left. This simple board takes 48VAC from the transformer secondary and uses a 35A/400V bridge rectifier to produce about 50VDC. The voltage is smoothed somewhat by a 100uf electrolytic capacitor. The transformer secondary is protected from a short in the bridge rectifier by either a 4ASB or a 5ASB fuse. Be sure to consult the manual for your game for the proper fuse value. Never overfuse a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Power Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
At least two different revisions of the Aux Power Board were used in System 11B/11C games, pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Auxiliary Power Board from Space Station (D-11813-552)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 Power.JPG|400px|thumb|center|Auxiliary Power Board from Earthshaker (D-12247-568)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Interconnect Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Interconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Backbox Interconnect Board from Space Station]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Lamp Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Earthshaker]]&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board was essentially designed for ease of manufacturing and assembly.  When Williams ultimately settled on using the same unit in all games, (give or take some parts here or there), modularity was apparent too.  There was no longer a need to build complex, custom wiring harnesses between the CPU / driver board, backbox insert, and playfield.  The interconnect board remedied this issue.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanzaiRunInterconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Banzai Run]]Although the first four System 11B games, which include Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone use some form of an interconnect board, it wasn&#039;t until Swords of Fury when the interconnect board was used as a standard for the remaining System 11 games.  The interconnect for Banzai Run (shown on the right) is completely different from anything else used by any game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board used in Swords of Fury uses a different part number, D-12185-559, compared to later System 11 games that used part number D-12313-x (x denotes the game&#039;s model number). They are not interchangable. Swords of Fury and Taxi had lane change switches still mounted on the cabinet. With later games lane change switches were removed and two optocouplers at position U2 and U3 (connected to the switch returns) were added to the board. The circuit is essentially the same as was used in early WPC games and enabled elimination of problematic physical lane change switches from the game. Starting with Jokerz, the third coupler at position U1 is used by the game software to check if the A/C relay on the aux power board is working.  U1 transmits information back to the MPU as switch 2 on the switch matrix, provided that the A/C has energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The early versions of the interconnect board were located on the left side of the backbox and positioned vertically.  The more common interconnect boards were located in the backbox positioned horizontally, just below the CPU board.  The later board passes the following circuits:&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp general illumination circuits&lt;br /&gt;
*flipper power and ground&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp columns and rows&lt;br /&gt;
*switch columns and rows &lt;br /&gt;
*flash lamp power&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What differentiates the board from game to game are the resistor values used for the flash lamp power circuits.  In some cases, some of the resistors are left unpopulated and / or a zero ohm jumper is installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (C-8363)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 SS Sorc Master Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|C-8363 Early System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This is the same master display that is used on all System 6A and System 7 games and is used on most System 9 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (D-10749)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10749.jpg|300px|thumb|left|D-10749 Late System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This master display board was introduced during the System 9 run and is mostly found in some of the later Comets that were manufactured.  The major difference between this master display board (D-10749) and the previous master display board (C-8363) is the D-10749 board replaced the card-edge connectors used on the C-8363 with pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any System 9 machine that is wired with card-edge connectors to use a C-8363 master display board can be converted to use a D-10749 master display board by re-wiring to use pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the mapping of the connectors &amp;amp; pins from a C-8363 to a D-10749 to aid in this conversion:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!D-10749 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!C-8363 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 16&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-14&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 15&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-16&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 14&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-17&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 13&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-13&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 12&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-12&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 11&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-15&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-7&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-8&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 10&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 9&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 8&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 7&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-11&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 6&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-10&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 5&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 3&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-7&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-8&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 1&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-1&lt;br /&gt;
|D1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-2&lt;br /&gt;
|C1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-3&lt;br /&gt;
|B1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-4&lt;br /&gt;
|A1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-5&lt;br /&gt;
|D2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-6&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-7&lt;br /&gt;
|C2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-8&lt;br /&gt;
|B2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-9&lt;br /&gt;
|A2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-10&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-18&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-11&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-1&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-2&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-3&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-4&lt;br /&gt;
| +100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-5&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C.&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-6&lt;br /&gt;
| +5 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-1&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C. on D-10749&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 (Discrete Displays High Speed to Pin Bot and Banzai Run)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10877.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-10877WithAlternate7180.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|System 11 Master Display Driver Board with UDN7180 &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot;. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Aaron Gross&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right shows &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot; that replace UDN7180 chips, which were beginning to be become expensive and harder to obtain during the production run. The daughter cards use discrete transistors, much the same way as one version of the older System 3-6 Master Display Panel did. U9, U12, U13, and U14, originally UDN7180s, have been replaced on this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A (Millionaire / Early F-14)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11414-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A Millionaire Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB actually came out of an early F-14 where they were recycled. Millionaire had it fully populated with additional lamp covers. The mounting brackets for the later D-11610 display changed so if you get a replacement for your F-14 first check which one is used in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A/B (F-14 to Swords of Fury)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11610.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A/B 4 7 Digit Segmented Displays Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (Taxi and Police Force)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-2.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B Display Driver Board D-12232-2 for 2 16 digit segmented displays + one external connector for a 7 digit display]]&lt;br /&gt;
Taxi and Police Force uses a D-12232-2 master display with J4 ribbon connector stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Taxi and Police Force. You would need to add U3 (6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connector J4. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (all other WMS 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12232.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B/C Display Driver Board D-12232-1 for 2 16 digit displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11C (Riverboat Gamber)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-3.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C Display Driver Board D-12232-3 for 2 16 digit displays and 2 connectors for 7 digit jackpot displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
Riverboat Gambler uses a D-12232-3 master display with all ribbon connectors stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Riverboat Gambler. You would need to add U3 and U4 (both a 6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connectors J4 and J6. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display. This display can also be used in Police Force and Taxi.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B/C (all Bally 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Bally-L16-Display.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally left side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12502-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally right side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Other Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Overlay Board (C-13287)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlWindSoundOverlayBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams &amp;quot;C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board&amp;quot; as found in WhirlWind.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This relatively simple board was used on Whirlwind only to accommodate 5 additional solenoids (flashers or motors). The board logically sits between the System 11 MPU and the sound board, intercepting data normally sent directly to the sound board, and acting on that data only when specific codes are commanded. The board also relays data not specifically intended for it, on to the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Current Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS C-12493 High Current Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-12493 High Current Driver Board from Earthshaker]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The high current driver board was used on Earthshaker to drive the shaker motor. It was used on several other Bally/Williams WPC games while designated different part numbers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Space Station Opto Position Board (C-11872)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpaceStationOptoBoardC-11872.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-11872 Space Station Opto Positioner PC Board Assembly]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is unique to Space Station. The &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; at Q1 and Q2 (both 2N3906s) in the picture at left are clear silicone caulk used to dampen vibration on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Remotely Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Flasher Board Pinbot.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Flash Lamp Resistor Board (from Pinbot)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The earlier design of flash lamp resistor board was mounted under the playfield within in the vicinity of the flash lamp circuit(s) that were powered by it.  Each board had a maximum of 4 power resistors (2 per flash lamp circuit).  The higher resistance resistor is 330 ohm 7 watt, while the lower resistance resistor is 5 ohm 10 watt.  The purpose of the larger value resistor is to keep the flash lamp powered with minimal voltage.  This keeps the flash lamp filament &amp;quot;warm&amp;quot;, which puts less of a strain on the flash lamp.  In turn, it is supposed to extend the life of the flash lamp. The smaller value resistor is used as a current limiting resistor which allows the solenoid voltage to be supplied to power the flash lamp.  By powering the flash lamps with solenoid voltage, it eliminates the need for an additional, dedicated secondary transformer winding. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Centrally Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px heights=380px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Flash Lamp Resistor Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Big Guns Resistor Board.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-557(Big Guns)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:CycloneBigGunsFlashlampBoardD-11814-564.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-564 (Cyclone)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS_Space_Station_Resistor_Board_D-11814-552.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-552(Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were used on early System 11B games prior to the use of the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.  The board is located in a very awkward location.  It is screwed to the back of the lower cabinet. Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone all have this board in this location.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistors on the board &amp;quot;eat current&amp;quot; (limit current) since the 13V #89 flash lamps are wired to coil voltage (about 38VDC). When implementing this board, Williams chose to change the wire colors as the circuit passes through the board. Combined with the generally poor Williams System 11 documentation, this makes it tough to track down problems with non-working flash lamps. On the plus side, the wire wound cement resistors on the board do not fail often, probably due to the location of the board (resistor boards located under the playfield have high resistor failure rates due to heat and vibration).  However, they obviously can fail. If there is power at the flash lamp, but grounding the flash lamp transistor does not light the lamp, the associated drive transistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were abandoned after Space Station.  Flash lamp circuits and resistors became integrated into the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====A/C Relay====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early AC Relay.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A/C relay board (early design ie. F-14, Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A/C relay placed on aux power driver board starting with 11B games (later design)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Road Kings, System 11 games make use of what is referred to as an A/C relay.  The purpose of the A/C relay was to drive twice the amount of coils and flashers by using half the amount of drive transistors.  This process is commonly referred to as &amp;quot;multiplexing&amp;quot;.  Typically, if the A/C relay was at rest, the &amp;quot;A side&amp;quot; solenoids would engage.  When the A/C relay was powered, the &amp;quot;C side&amp;quot; flashers would engage. However, there were sometimes solenoids multiplexed with other solenoids.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, High Speed, which does not use an A/C relay, uses 8 discrete drive transistors to drive solenoids / flashers 1-8.  Pinbot, which does use an A/C relay, uses the same 8 discrete transistors to drive solenoids / flashers.  However, a total of 16 solenoids and flashers (A side and C side) are driven.  By employing the use of an A/C relay, the System 11 MPU / driver board could be used for many more years without a &amp;quot;drastic&amp;quot; redesign.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Initially, the A/C relay was located on a small circuit board under the playfield for System 11/11A games.  Likewise, this A/C relay board did not have Molex header connections.  Wires were directly soldered to the circuit board.  Once the Auxiliary Power Driver Board was introduced with the System 11B platform (starting with Big Guns), the A/C relay was moved to this board for all subsequent System 11B/11C games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the example of the A/C relay shown in the pic on the left, the only way to discern that the A/C relay is the highlighted relay board is due to the wire colors soldered to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode Board for Multiplexed Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board. As Found.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diode board as found mounted to the bottom of the playfield (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Diode board from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diodes from diode board moved to aux power driver board starting with 11B games]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Motor Control Board (D-12045)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12045.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams &amp;quot;D-12045&amp;quot; as found in Cyclone, Jokerz!, Riverboat Gambler and Diner.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in 4 Williams Games&lt;br /&gt;
* Cyclone ... for the random award wheel&lt;br /&gt;
* Jokerz! ... for draw poker (the wheel has various cards pictured on it), &lt;br /&gt;
* Riverboat Gambler ... for the backbox roulette wheel and&lt;br /&gt;
* Diner ... for the clock hands count time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board uses a single U-opto to detect the wheel at the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; position. The MPU implements an &amp;quot;open loop control system&amp;quot; stepping the motor to the desired position while assuming that each step was successful. The game flags an issue with the PCB/motor assembly when the software thinks that the wheel should be at the home position but the opto beam hasn&#039;t been broken by the opto interrupter on the back of the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Coils===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Flippers.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Serial wound flipper coils as seen on earlier (pre F-14 Tomcat) System 11 / 11A games (pic from Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Placeholder for Parallel wound flipper coils as seen on later (post F-14 Tomcat) System 11A/B/C games (pic from xxxx)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Parallel_Wound_Flippers.jpg|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for parallel wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later games (starting with F-14 Tomcat) used parallel wound coils, which have 2 diodes on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games use different parallel wound flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application.  Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |System 11 Flipper Coils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Color&lt;br /&gt;
!Strength&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11753 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weakest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11722 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weaker ||24-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11630 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Standard ||23-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11629 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Strongest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CoinDoorButtons.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Example System 11 Coin Door Buttons. The Advance button is missing it&#039;s black cap, and yes...that is a bit of soft drink spooge on the bracket.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The coin door buttons for system 9 and 11 games are shown at right. The function of the three buttons is (from left to right in the picture)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset High Score to Date&lt;br /&gt;
*Auto Up/Manual Down&lt;br /&gt;
*Advance&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Function of the Reset High Score to Date is self explanatory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Auto Up/Manual Down (AUMD) button is interpreted by the game software in multiple ways. Starting from attract mode, if the AUMD switch is up, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter audits and adjustments mode. If the AUMD switch is down, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter diagnostic mode. With the AUMD button in the up position during many of the diagnostic tests, the next step in the test will be automatically entered. For example, display test will display each digit on the display in turn. Coil test will advance through each coil. A particular step of the test may be paused on by pressing the AUMD button down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Advance switch moves the diagnostic, audit, or adjustment to the next step (or previous step if the AUMD button is down, except in diagnostic mode).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When in adjustments mode, the credit button is used to zero, turn off, or turn on features.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; One of the adjustment settings (adjustment 69 on High Speed for example) can be used to clear all of the game audits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of all diagnostic tests, the game will enter audits next, and then adjustments.  To exit diagnostics, audits, and / or adjustments, either advance until the last adjustment, or simply turn the machine off.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Transformer Power Selection Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 11 Power Selection Jumpers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys11 Transformer Power Selection.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Typical power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 115VAC (from Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11European220VSelection.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;European power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 220VAC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;1 - Black, 4 - White, 3/6 - Orange.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;Image courtesy of Chuck Sanderson&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Sporadic Problems in General - System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Headers.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Cracked Header Joints and Headers cut too deeply by factory on System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the previous Williams platforms, the System 9 platform is prone to cracked solder joints on the header pins.  Likewise, Williams&#039; board manufacturers had some tendencies to cut the header pins too short on the solder side.  By cutting the pins too short, the cuts partially go through the solder meniscus.  Cutting through the solder meniscus makes a solder joint less reliable, and it may prematurely fail over time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By having cracked solder joints and / or cut solder meniscus, sporadic issues may occur.  To resolve a cracked solder joint issue, the best approach is to completely remove the old solder, and add new solder to the joint.  Due to dirt and contaminants, simply adding solder to the existing joint is not sufficient.  If the header pins are cut too short, an attempt to remove the solder and new solder can be made.  However, in some instances the only resolution is to replace the header pin connector.  It is recommended to use a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-79.asp high quality replacement header].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Rectifier Fuses====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Fuses_Added_Before_Lamp_Solenoid_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AdditionalFuses.jpg|right|thumb|400px|The updated schematic (from High Speed) showing placement of additional transformer secondary fusing for solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A design flaw carried over from the earlier systems was the lack of fuses between the transformer secondary and the bridge rectifiers used for solenoid and controlled lamp power.  In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game should blow. But that is not always the case. If the primary power fuse fails to blow, the wiring between the transformer secondary and the bridge becomes the fuse. The resulting melted wiring is not pretty!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For games before Big Guns, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp fuse installed (Williams opted to use an 8A normal blo, while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses). For games after Big Guns, an 8A normal blo fuse is already present between the transformer secondary and the controlled lamp bridge. As for the solenoid bridge, the addition of the auxiliary power driver board added fusing to protect this circuit. The 25V and 50V solenoid bridges were added to this board. Both bridges are fused with 4A slo-blo fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem in the Inkochnito Bridge Board.&lt;br /&gt;
Surf on over to http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate to the 12 position wafer connection====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-WMS-System11PSCN1Alternative.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The severely burned wafer connector at Data East equivalent of J1 here has been replaced with parts currently available. Pins 5 and 8 are not populated as those connections are not used.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 position &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector (CN1 or J1 for Williams games), can be replaced with currently available parts, shown at left. The original &amp;quot;wafers&amp;quot; are difficult to find and pricey.&lt;br /&gt;
Part number for the alternate connector is Molex 03-09-2121 or 03-09-2122. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply Missing 5v Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
If an aftermarket Rottendog WDP011C power supply is missing 5v, and other common causes of a missing voltage have been ruled out, then it&#039;s likely that the 5v regulator at U191 has failed. An available replacement is the Texas Instruments PTR08060 5v regulator from [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/PTR08060WVD Mouser] or [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/PTR08060WVD/1698955 Digikey].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply - Big Guns &amp;amp; Cyclone GI Comes On, Game Doesn&#039;t Boot====&lt;br /&gt;
If using the now obsolete Rottendog WDP011A power supply for Williams Cyclone or Big Guns, the +12v jumper may have to be moved from the bottom jumper location to the top. If a Rottendog equipped Big Guns or Cyclone turns on the GI lights, but the game doesn&#039;t boot, (only the 5v light on the CPU is lit), this is most likely the reason.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 MPU Jumpers===&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, jumpers on the MPU board do not require modification. The default configuration works for all System 11 game ROMs. However, there are 5 exceptions as follows...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W7 - Language Select Jumper&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
W7 is used only in games up to Cyclone. Games with 16 digit alphanumeric displays do not use this jumper. If installed, the game automatically reverts to English after losing the content of the RAM. If a different language is preferred, the &amp;quot;adjustments&amp;quot; menu provides an option to change the default language. Only a few early System 11 game ROMs contained multiple languages. For these games, if W7 is removed, the game generally defaults to German text. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games used language specific ROMs at U26 and U27.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W16 and W17 - Hitachi CPU select&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Hitachi6802.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A Hitachi processor, installed at U15, with W16 cut (lower right of pic)]]&lt;br /&gt;
The W16 jumper, on original System 11 boards, is in a different location and used for backwards compatibility with system 9 boards. There is no need to change it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 11A and later boards:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*W16 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U15, the CPU responsible for most game operation.&lt;br /&gt;
*W17 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U24, the CPU for the sound subsystem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These two jumpers are used to indicate the manufacturer of the 6802/6808 microprocessor since the clock circuit of Hitachi microprocessors is different from the clock circuit of other manufacturers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If U15 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W16. &lt;br /&gt;
If U24 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W17.&lt;br /&gt;
Otherwise, W16 and W17 should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Hitachi microprocessor can be used in System 9 and System 11 (nothing) MPU boards by simply lifting pin 38 out of the socket. Cutting the pin is not recommended since there may be need for that IC in another board. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W5/W6 and W18/W19 - RAM Type Select ONLY FOR SYSTEM 11B AND 11C&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C MPU boards provide the ability to use either a 6116 or a 6264 RAM at locations U25 and U23 (sound subsystem).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U25&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W5, remove W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W5, install W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U23 (sound subsystem)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W19, remove W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W19, install W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Removing both W5 and W6 from a System ll (nothing) MPU or from a System 11A MPU prevents the switch matrix circuitry from working correctly. One instance of this being done resulted in all switches reporting closure, counting backwards from 64 to 1 while in switch level test. Reference [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-switch-levels-all-active &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;this&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;] PinSide thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
====Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSClockandE.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|A scope trace of the 4Mhz crystal input at pin 39 of the microprocessor (blue), and &amp;quot;E&amp;quot;, the external clock at pin 37 of the microprocessor (amber)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Following is an ordered, disciplined process for reanimating a dead MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Inspect for Alkaline Corrosion. Abate all corrosion properly before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test for valid 5/12/-12VDC power to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify correct jumpers are installed (or not installed) for Hitachi 6802/8 processors. More info [[Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11_MPU_Jumpers|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
#Note and address any error messages displayed upon boot (if any).&lt;br /&gt;
#Validate the ROM images.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test socketed chips in a known working board or chip tester.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (4Mhz) clock signal to the 6802/8 processor at pin 39.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (1Mhz) external clock signal at pin 37 of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the reset circuitry is providing a valid &amp;quot;low and then high&amp;quot; reset signal at pin 40 of the 6802/8. Note that replacing the original reset circuitry with a modern reset generator will lengthen the time until the signal transitions to high. This is normal, and helps with debugging as the signal can be seen much easier.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to test for activity on the IRQ (pin 4), Address and Data pins of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to ensure that the following bus buffer chips are correctly mirroring the input signals to the output signals:&lt;br /&gt;
##System 9: U1, U2 and U3 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U23 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
##System 11: U11 and U13 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U16 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Leon&#039;s test ROM to ensure that each 6821 PIA is receiving the correct chip select and data to produce valid outputs at pins 2 through 17. More information regarding use of Leon&#039;s test ROM can be found [[Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Normal Game Boot Behavior====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Boot Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for System 9 is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the diagnostic display on the MPU. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will light during boot up, and continue to stay lit, as long as the game is on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Diagnostic7Segment.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 11(nothing) MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with a 7-segment display on the MPU is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the display. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; does not go away. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will continue to be displayed under normal boot conditions.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DiagnosticLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs as found on a System 11A, 11B, and 11C MPUs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with 3 LEDs instead of the 7-segment display on the MPU is for the &amp;quot;+5 VDC&amp;quot; LED to light first and stay on, then a split second later, the blanking LED will light and stay on. At the same time that the blanking LED lights, the diagnostic LED will begin to blink at a fairly rapid pace with a 50% duty cycle (equal durations of the LED being on then off). The blanking LED will continue to remain on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LEDDiagnosticsIn7SegmentGame.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs driven by game software expecting a 7-segment display as in High Speed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 11 MPU with 3 LEDs is installed in a game whose original board contained the 7-segment LED diagnostic display first introduced with the System 7 board set, the status of the 3 LEDs won&#039;t help much. The game software is attempting to display a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; (assuming your game boots correctly) on a 7-segment display. Since the board contains just the three LEDs, the MPU circuitry merely lights all three LEDs as shown in the picture at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====MPU Boot Error Codes====&lt;br /&gt;
MPUs used in System 9 and 11(nothing) games display a code on a 7-segment display if an error is detected during boot. MPUs used in System 11A, 11B, and 11C games use the Diagnostic LED to blink a &amp;quot;codes&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 9 MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U18 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6808 processor&#039;s ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Game ROM 2 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal stuck, coin door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or the U18 CMOS RAM faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;System failure. Occasionally, the following components can contribute to this problem: U21 (4MhZ crystal), components in the IRQ circuit, broken leads or failed C9 (22uF) in the reset section, or loosely seated ICs on the CPU board. Note that boot code &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; is the hardware default and characteristic of the CPU &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; signal not complying with the proper low-to-high spec at pin 40.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game is locked up, there may be a bad power supply.  The 5 volt logic supply is the first one to check.  Then, check the 12 volt supply, which is used to reset the CPU chip.  Test for both DC (correct voltages) and AC (too much ripple on the DC circuit).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11(nothing) Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 11(nothing) MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;These error codes assume that either High Speed, Grand Lizard, or Road Kings ROMs are installed since those were the only three games shipped with this version of the MPU board containing the 7-segment display. Later System 11 MPU boards replace the 7-segment display with 3 discrete LEDs that indicate 5V presence, diagnostics execution, and blanking status. While the System 11(nothing) MPU board works fine with other/later game ROMs, the 7-segment display with later game ROMs doesn&#039;t provide useful information other than some confidence that the software is running correctly. With later game ROMs installed and the MPU booting properly, the 7-segment display will appear to alternate rapidly between &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; (as fast as the &amp;quot;Diagnostics&amp;quot; LED would be flashing in a System 11A through 11C MPU board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U25 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6802 processors ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;, or the coin door is closed, or the memory protect circuit is faulty, or the CMOS RAM at U25 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;General system failure. Check the 5VDC power supply as well as the integrity of game ROM 2 at U26.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A zero displayed during Memory Chip Test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is NOT functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11A, 11B, 11C games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the number of blinks of the DIAGNOSTIC LED, the error message that might be displayed, and the explanation (Source: Williams System 11A game manual. with embellishment).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating an MPU indicating a U10 failure (8 blinks) can be found [https://youtu.be/Rhho5nO3YLU &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Message&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;no message || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U25 RAM FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;The RAM at U25 could not be used properly. This means that the RAM failed a read/write test at power up.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;The game will remain in the current state and no other tests are performed until the game is turned off, then back on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;MEM. PROT. FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;This message means that either:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;a) the Coin Door may be shut,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;b) the Memory Protect Switch may be stuck in the ON position,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;c) the memory protect logic is protecting the memory, or&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;d) a U25 RAM failure is occurring.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U51 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U51 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U38 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U38 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U41 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U41 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U42 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U42 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U54 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U54 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U10 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U10 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;IRQ FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The interrupt request line is not working normally. It may be missing, stuck, too fast, or too slow.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 failed checksum (test 11 is skipped).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 failed checksum.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of the above failures (except #9) may mean that the device has failed but it may also mean that the 6802 microprocessor is unable to communicate adequately or properly with the device. For example, if the CPU is attempting to checksum the game ROM at U27, but one of the 8 data lines leading to U27 has been severed, the wrong data will be received by the microprocessor and the checksum test will fail even though the ROM is perfectly fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An U25 RAM failure can occur without actual 6116 RAM failure.  One of the most common reasons why U25 RAM failure occurs is lack of power to the RAM chip.  If the D1, 1N5817, diode shorts open, logic power will no longer have a pathway to the U25 RAM.  However, if the D2, 1N4148, blocking diode is fine, and the battery holder and batteries are fine, power will be retained by the U25 RAM.  Although, the batteries will die prematurely if D1 has shorted.  Another reason why U25 is no longer powered by the +5VDC logic power is due to a severed trace either caused by a blunt object or battery corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An interesting side effect to the U25 RAM failure blink code is that the blanking LED will blink 10 times after the single blink from the diagnostic LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== U51, U27, and possibly other boot message causes =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SocketWornOut.jpg|300px|thumb|left|This OEM System 11 MPU socket is tired, worn out, and no longer provided solid contact with the ROM chip legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 MPUs booting with error codes, blinks, or messages on the display may need new sockets for the game ROM(s). In the picture at left, it&#039;s easy to see light right through the socket holes (note the brown background vs the white background). The metal female connections have fatigued over time and are no longer providing a solid mechanical connection to the ROM chip legs. Removal and replacement with a quality dual wipe or machine pin socket is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This situation can cause a wide variety of boot problems including complete failure to boot, &amp;quot;U27 ROM failure&amp;quot; message, &amp;quot;U51 failure&amp;quot; message, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, the root cause could be due to many other reasons. The fairly complicated chip select logic outlined on sheet 4 of the System 11 MPU schematics could be the cause. The best way to attack the problem is with a logic probe, ensuring that the various chip select gates are yielding the intended logic states.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Five &amp;quot;Knocks&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes when turning a system 11 game on, the knocker will fire 5 times, causing most folks to wonder, &amp;quot;what the hey&amp;quot;?. All that knocking is designed to call the operators attention to a potential switch issue. Like the &amp;quot;credit dot&amp;quot; in later Williams games, including System 11 games that support the dot character, these 5 knocks mean that the game hasn&#039;t detected the closure of a particular switch (or switches) in a certain number of games. A message will be displayed indicating which switch or switches to examine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Usually, this is an indication of a failed switch. Most switches get closed during the normal course of game play, long before the game&#039;s software counts up to the limit of &amp;quot;games played without closing each switch&amp;quot; and issues this indication. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this issue, use the coin door diagnostic panel buttons to enter switch edge test. Manually close the switch. If a switch closure is indicated, either normal game play failed to close the switch (you&#039;re not a very good player), or the switch is dirty. Closing a switch with your finger is different than closing a switch with a ball. Your finger generally pushes more firmly on the switch contacts. Clean the switch by dragging an old business card or piece of paper between the switch contacts while pinching the switch blades together with your fingers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Caution: do not attempt to adjust switches with anything metal while the game is turned on. You will eventually short coil or lamp power to the switch matrix, damaging the MPUs switch matrix circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If closing the switch manually doesn&#039;t register in switch edge test, see the &amp;quot;switch problems&amp;quot; section of this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AdjustFailureMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door closed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message seen in the picture at left occurs when the game software can&#039;t make sense of the information contained in the battery backed RAM at U25. This could be because the RAM has failed, but this is unlikely. The vastly more common reason is that battery backup power has been interrupted to the games battery backed RAM because either the batteries are not installed, dead, or dying. Hopefully, they haven&#039;t made a mess of the board by leaking alkaline. See below. &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; is displayed under these conditions when the coin door is closed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that on some games (not certain if all) which use two 16-digit alpha-numeric displays, the message displayed will actually read &amp;quot;AJSTMENT FAILURE&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FactorySettingMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door open.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the coin door is open under these conditions, the message &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; is displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Testing for Battery Backup Power at the RAM =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U25_Ram_Test.jpg|300px|thumb|right|System 11: Game off. Meter set to DC volts. Black lead on game ground. Red lead on RAM pin 24.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing for power at the RAM chip is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The CMOS RAM chip is located at U18 for System 9 and U25 for System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Set DMM to DC volts (or on less than 20V if not using an auto-ranging meter)&lt;br /&gt;
#Game off&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead on backbox ground&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on pin 24 of the RAM as shown at right&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three AA batteries normally provide 4.5VDC. If you are reading some voltage, but not quite 4.5VDC, the batteries need to be replaced...and don&#039;t forget to move them off of the MPU board while you are at it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other causes for low or no battery backup power to the RAM chip are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode at D3 for System 9 or D2 for System 11 - This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC source from &amp;quot;charging&amp;quot; the alkaline batteries. This diode is a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode at D2 for System 9 or D1 for System 11 - This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC battery backup power from powering parts of the board other than the RAM chip. In this case, the batteries will deplete rapidly. This diode is a 1N5817.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 9 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U41, U9, the game ROMs, and one or more 6821s.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 11 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U11, U31, U34, U35, U36, U44, the game ROMs, and possibly the 6821s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating the repair of a System 9 MPU that was damaged in this way can be found [https://youtu.be/uoYKRJFnm-I &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:PinSideLogo.png]] An excellent disciplined approach to repairing a System 11 MPU damaged in this way can be found on PinSide [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-fried-my-system-11-cpu-board-now-what#post-7564730 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 9 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Yikes! What a pity...]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3 AA batteries used to retain settings across power cycles to a location far away from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; in the credit/match display is seen when the game is turned on, the game is in audit mode versus attract mode.  Below are several reasons why the game has defaulted to audit mode.&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing.&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the U18 (5517-2) RAM. Check pin 24 of U18 for approximately 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v with the power off.  Lack of battery backup power could also be due to an open D3 (1N4148) blocking diode.  This diode is used to keep the CPU&#039;s logic power from charging the batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking diode D2 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There are other problems, such as a faulty 5517-2 RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries will not allow a game to boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on.  It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores.  However, a System 9 game will boot, and is still playable with the lack of batteries.  To complete the boot sequence into attract mode, open the coin door, switch the game off, and then quickly back on. The game should leave audit mode, and go into attract mode.  Credits would need to be added from the coin door, and if necessary, settings would need to be changed before starting a game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea.  You can easily remove the battery pack from the board.  Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement.  If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position.  Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead.  This will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D3 on the MPU board fails.  Keep in mind that adding a secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory by .5 to .7 volts (the typical voltage drop across a diode) if D3 is still good.  Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 remote bat.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 9 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board.  All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; are somewhat common.  Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save you some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 D2 D3.JPG|300px|thumb|left|D2 and D3 Diodes Highlighted on a Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D3 blocking diode.  An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective.  Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack.  This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on.  Alkaline batteries do not like being charged.  They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly).  In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged.  Testing the D3 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out.  When in doubt, replace the D3 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack.  Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5517-2 RAM memory, if D3 is still good.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 11 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RemoteBatteryHolderSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A remote battery holder installed on a System 11 MPU. The purple wire is positive.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Installing NVRAM instead of batteries ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM DIP.JPG|300px|thumb|left|RAMTRON DIP NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Cyclone)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM SMT Adapter.JPG|300px|thumb|right|SMT adapted NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Transporter The Rescue)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like most other pinball mpu boards, the battery-backed RAM can be replaced with a non-volatile memory RAM (NVRAM).  Replacement RAM that can replace existing 6116 or a 6264 SRAM will be needed.  DIP versions are becoming scarce, but there are other solutions available that use surface mount equivalents on a small circuit board that plug into the RAM&#039;s socket.  Unfortunately, U25 is soldered in on System 11 boards from the factory, and would need to be removed to replace with NVRAM.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If installing any version of 6264 NVRAM on an 11B or 11C board, jumper W5 (located just above U25) needs to be moved to jumper W6.  This jumper has a completely different purpose on 11 and 11A boards.  6116 NVRAM will have to be used with 11 and 11A boards, or else modification with wire wrap will be necessary.  If 6116 NVRAM is used on 11B or 11C boards, jumper W5 does not have to be chaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several vendors who sell surface mount NVRAM on an adapter board.  The adapter in the picture shown on the right was purchased from [http://www.pinitech.com/products/cat_memory.php Pinitech].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
It has been documented that some variants of DIP NVRAM may need to have diode D1 replaced with a jumper or jumped around the diode, in order for the game to boot successfully.  D1, a 1n5817 diode, has a very low forward voltage drop (about 0.2 volts) vs. the normal 0.4-0.6 volts most other diodes have.  If replacing U25 with the memory RAM, some memory RAM will not unlock and allow writes until the voltage is 4.8 volts or so.  The 1n5817 D1 diode is just enough to prevent some memory RAMs from allowing writes.  To solve this, solder a jumper wire around the D1 terminals, or remove D1 entirely and replace with a jumper.  Surface mounted NVRAM on an adapter board is not susceptible to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing a Memory Capacitor Instead of Batteries====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11B Mem Cap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Memory Capacitor Added to a System 11B MPU Board.  The circled areas show an added jumper for the cap&#039;s negative terminal to ground and a jumper added in place of the blocking diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SuperCapInstalled.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method of adding a SuperCap. This style cap has two leads on the bottom of the cap. The negative lead of the cap is connected to battery ground via the red jumper wire. The necessary jumper across D2 is circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor. In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is greatly reduced compared to a rechargeable battery. When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor. When the game is turned off (this is where the memory cap slightly differs than a rechargeable battery) the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time. Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again. If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a memory cap, two things will have to be done. It will be necessary to add a jumper to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground or positive lead to the non-banded side of the blocking diode. The picture to the left shows a jumper added to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 11B MPU board. Installation on System 11, 11A, and 11C boards is similarly performed.  Secondly, the 1N4148 blocking diode (D2) will have to be removed, and replaced by current limiting resistor.  A value from 100 ohms to 270 ohms will work.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, it is a good idea to leave the game on for 15-20 minutes to allow the game to initially charge the capacitor to full capacity. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes to allow the cap to recharge is a good idea.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Both photos show a jumper installed in place of the blocking diode.  It is recommended that a limiting resistor be installed instead.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:  It has been determined that memory capacitors are not the most effective way to retain memory on System 11 games, if the game will not be turned on for long lengths of time.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MPUDelicateTraces.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of the delicate traces under the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. Luckily, these cleaned up nicely.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CorrosionCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Closeup of traces under the battery holder. Corrosion (darkened spots) has invaded beneath the solder mask (green coating) and is beginning to eat away at the copper traces.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen at left, the traces on System 11 MPUs are very small. Not much alkaline damage is required to eat completely through these delicate traces. Unfortunately, there are a great many of these traces under the battery holder, and in a very vulnerable position to alkaline damage. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to the left of the battery holder is the reset section of the MPU. That section is, on balance, much easier to repair than the delicate traces under the battery holder and at the 6821 PIAs immediately under the battery holder.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The advice often dispensed to deal with alkaline corrosion is to scrub the affected area with an acid such as vinegar, rinse with water, and then rinse again with isopropyl alcohol. This might work for light surface alkaline corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, often the alkaline will eat into traces beneath the solder mask or beneath chips. This dictates desoldering affected chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces. The alkaline interacts chemically with the solder making it very difficult to heat. Desoldering from the (presumably undamaged) back side of the board is much easier. Scuffing the alkaline damaged solder with a wire brush to remove the surface layer of damage is also helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once all damaged components have been removed, sand the affected area carefully with your choice of fine grit sandpaper. 220 grit works well. The objective is to remove the corrosion completely without destroying additional traces. All corroded areas must be addressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, rebuild traces as necessary. Corrosion tends to sever traces where the trace meets the solder pad of a part. Strong magnification and bright lighting helps. Either tin or conformal coat the bare copper and then reinstall parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11AlkalineDamage-1-Annotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Another closeup of the delicate traces near the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. These traces are too far gone for a repair to be considered reliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingSRCPartsSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A 9 pin, 4.7K bussed resistor network replacing SRC5. Pin 1 is on the right]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AlkalineCorrosion.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of alkaline damage that has crept under the solder mask (the darker traces). Eventually, this corrosion will eat completely through the trace, making the board unreliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TypicalSRC.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The OEM resistor/capacitor network.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the top of the board are a few &amp;quot;SRC&amp;quot; parts. These are 10 pin resistor/capacitor SIPs. The OEM part connects each driver line to a 4.7Kohm pull-up resistor connected to 5VDC. This guarantees that the signal is held at logic high until the PIA grounds the signal. The OEM part also connects each driver line to a high frequency noise filter capacitor (470pf). These parts are no longer available. A completely acceptable substitute is a 9 pin bussed, 8 resistor network (4.7Kohms) at positions SRC1 - SRC5 and SRC7 - SRC9. This part provides the pull-up resistor. In practice, the high frequency filter capacitor does not impact the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The part is installed as shown in the picture at right, with pin 1 of the part connected to the right side which is labeled pin 1 in the board silkscreen. A 10 pin (9 bussed resistors) part may be used ONLY if the left most pin is clipped and not connected to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An image of the original OEM part is shown at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another example of alkaline corrosion can be seen in the picture on the left. This damage can be cleaned up, retinned, and the board placed back in service.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blanking Signal Stuck Low or Pulsing====&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking signal is a failsafe interlock with critical game functions including the display, sounds, lamp matrix, and solenoids. It prevents operation of each of these game features to protect the game circuitry in the event of a system failure. For instance, if the MPU is not running, and the lamp matrix is stuck on at a particular row or column, those parts will heat up quickly, and at the very least damage that circuitry. Coils remaining locked on could cause even larger damage to the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the game functions listed above require the blanking signal to be high (&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not pulsing but always high&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;) to operate. As an example, the solenoid driver circuitry logically &amp;quot;ands&amp;quot; the blanking signal with solenoid commands using a 7408 AND gates (at U17, U18, U19 and U20).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of blanking, with the blanking LED never lighting, means that the game program is not running. It either never started running, locked up due to an invalid ROM image or a problem with the data, address, control, or chip select signals on the MPU, or detected a problem with the RAM memory.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Blanking.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|C58, a timing element for the 555 timer. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In rare cases, C58 can fail. C58 holds the input to the 555 timer high between pulses from the display circuitry. This causes the blanking signal to pulse. A pulsing blanking signal can manifest in missing digits on the display, some lamp columns not being turned on, and possibly other issues. C58 is a 1uf tantalum capacitor. If the blanking signal is pulsing, replace C58.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Blanking.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 CPU Blanking Circuit. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will send data to the display 6821 PIA at U51 (pin 4) at regular intervals (every 2.8 msec).&lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 to pulse high periodically. The DE schematics call this signal &amp;quot;TG&amp;quot;. It is merely called &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; in WMS schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at U36, in at pin 13, out at pin 12.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C57 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q50 and to pin 2 of the 555 timer at 1C.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 555 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at U51, the output of the 555 timer at pin 3 (and 7) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the longer, more detailed explanation, [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb75.pdf Stern service bulletin 75] provides the &amp;quot;Blanking Circuit Theory of Operation&amp;quot; for Data East MPUs which are identical to Williams MPUs with respect to the blanking circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When operating properly, the pins of the 555 timer will behave as follows (pin number, logic signal)&lt;br /&gt;
#low&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing at the same rate as the 6821 PIA at U51, pin 4&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing very rapidly. i.e. &amp;quot;ticking&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair Leon&#039;s System 11 test ROM] runs correctly on an MPU, this guarantees that all data, address, and control signals are working correctly. If blanking doesn&#039;t go high with a game ROM installed, ensure that the ROM images are valid. This is by far the most probable once Leon&#039;s ROM runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (System 9)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetGenerator.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 9 MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9ResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator on a System 9 MPU.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The three electrolytic caps (all 100uf/25V), two inductors, and 5 ceramic caps (all .001uf labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;) are part of the 5, 12, and -12 volt power filtering circuitry. The D2, 1N5817 diode isn&#039;t needed if an NVRAM is used instead of a SuperCap or remote batteries.  However, a jumper must be installed at D2 to power the NVRAM.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset section of the System 9 MPU is almost identical to the System 11 reset section. As such, a modification similar to the mod outlined below can be performed on System 9 boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove resistors R6, R8, and R12. Really, all but R6 can simply be clipped off. One through hole at R6 will be used later.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove transistor Q4&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a reset generator (MCP120-460GI/TO) where Q4 was removed. Orient the reset generator the same way that Q4 was oriented, matching the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper from the upper leg of where R6 was removed (oriented as shown in the picture, upside-down from game installation) to the via that is about 1/4&amp;quot; southeast of the R6 connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it. Most of the rest of the reset circuit can be removed, but this provides no advantage since those parts are already &amp;quot;out of circuit&amp;quot; with this modification.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary to power the sound amplifier on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetMinimum.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Another image of the bare minimum part requirement when using a modern reset generator. The three electrolytic caps are all 100uf/25V. Note that the right most electrolytic cap is oriented backwards from the other two. The 5 ceramic caps are all .001uf and are labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;. These are sometimes called 1000pf ceramic caps.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MCP130 reset generator variant, with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used too, but it isn&#039;t necessary. This is because the resistor at R170 provides an external 4.7K ohm pull up for the /RESET line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the reset generator has a longer reset delay than the OEM circuitry. At boot, the 7 segment LED will seem to show a &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; for a fraction of a second. It will turn to a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and remain &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; after that, assuming that the board is booting properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor1.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumpers&amp;quot; where inductors are normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor2.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; where an inductor is normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some System 9 MPUs shipped from the factory with zero ohm jumpers installed instead of inductors (see images left and right). When repairing alkaline corrosion, it&#039;s completely acceptable to replaced damaged inductors with jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (All versions of System 11)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Section.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 11A MPU board.  Components to be removed are circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Gen.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Reset section with reset generator and jumper installed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on all versions of the System 11 MPU boards. A reset generator can be installed. Since the reset section of all versions of the System 11 MPU board is susceptible to battery damage, this is a very easy, and minimalistic way to rebuild the reset section. To do so, 4 components will need to be removed and a jumper installed. The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Q39 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from top to bottom as installed on the board) R58, R60 (these two are just below the Q39 transistor), and R69.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO (also used on Data East MPUs) where Q39 was. Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q39 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install in the bottom through hole). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the right pad of R58 and the right pad of R60 (both resistors have been removed).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary for the sound section of the MPU on most boards, except the 11B and 11C variants.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired. Please consult the System 11 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics.  The MCP130 variant with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used, but it is not necessary.  This is because resistor network SR19 pin 3 is an external 4.7K ohm resistor used to pull up the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a prime example of where a reset generator is very handy.  The amount of components replaced are reduced from 15-20 to 1.  Note that because this was an 11B board (also true for 11C boards), there is no sound amplifier on the board.  Hence, the +12v is not needed at all, and none of the parts related to the +12v were repopulated.  If this were an 11(nothing) or an 11A board, the +12V inductor (can be replaced by a simple jumper), the W10/W11 jumper, and associated capacitors (C27, C28, and C29) would need to be populated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=330px heights=210px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;A Prime Candidate for Using a Reset Generator (11B MPU Board Shown)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot.JPG|Battery alkali leeched into the reset section.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot WIP.JPG|Components removed, affected traces and pads cleaned and treated.&lt;br /&gt;
File:S11ResetSectionAnnotated.png|Components repopulated. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MinumunResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Another image showing &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;the single jumper (string tied to it) and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator (System 11B/11C). System 11 (nothing) and System 11A must retain a few more parts.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the above gallery pics, note that some components in the reset area had to be reinstalled.  These components are in the area of the reset section, but are not part of the reset circuitry. They are actually related to the game RAM, enabling CMOS power to reach the RAM and to control pin 18, the chip enable pin of the RAM. Without these parts, the MPU will not successfully boot.  Instead, there will be a &#039;&#039;&#039;single blink code&#039;&#039;&#039; from the diagnostic LED indicating a U25 RAM error (a &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; will display on boards with the 7-segment display).  If the game display is connected to the MPU board, a &amp;quot;U25 RAM ERROR&amp;quot; message will be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
*D1 - 1N5817 diode &lt;br /&gt;
*Q40 - 2N3904 transistor (a 2N4401 was used in this case)&lt;br /&gt;
*R64 - 1 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R65 - 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R68 - 4.7 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And, once again, for a System 11 (nothing) or a System 11A MPU, both of which have onboard amplifiers in the upper left corner and require 12VDC power, be sure to retain or replace the following parts:&lt;br /&gt;
*L2 - 4.7uH inductor (or a simple jumper)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C28 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 100uf/25V electrolytic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Connecting a logic probe to the MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Logic Probe connected to System 9 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Logic Probe connected to System 11 (11A) MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, +5v and ground can always be acquired at any one of the bypass capacitors, which are located at most every chip, and simply labeled as &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 comp PSU.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 9 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 comp PSU.JPG|300px|right|thumb|System 11 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 1J17 power connection is essentially the same for System 9 and all variants of the System 11 MPU boards.  The ground connection can be attached to pins 1 through 3.  The +5vdc connection can be connected to pins 4 through 6.  -12vdc gets connected to pin 8 and +12vdc gets connected to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 games are far more tolerant of low line conditions vs. the newer WPC games.  Some things to check if the game is resetting are the usual culprits for this type of thing:  connectors, filter capacitors, slam switches, bad chip sockets, etc.  It is good preventative maintenance to replace the +5 volt filter capacitor on the power supply with a new one; most of these are 25+ years old and might be getting to the point of wearing out.  Certainly replace them if you are getting resetting on your system 11 game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11 games give an indication that they&#039;ve been slam tilted; if you&#039;re getting a &amp;quot;game reset&amp;quot; but you get a noise and/or a message on the displays beforehand, it is probably a slam switch issue vs. a true reset issue.  Check all the slam switches in the game (usually the coin door is the main one, and also the ball roll tilt if present).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
====A/C solenoid/flasher problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AuxDriverBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board, showing the A/C select relay, the clear &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; at the top, center of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is a dual &amp;quot;make/break&amp;quot; (DPDT, double pole, double throw) relay that supplies power to either the &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; or the &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. It is located on the Auxiliary Power/Driver Board for games that use the board which was introduced with Big Guns and used on all subsequent games. For games prior to Big Guns, like F-14 Tomcat, the relay is probably located under the playfield. There are exceptions. High Speed and Grand Lizard do not use an A/C select relay. Road Kings uses one for a handful of solenoids, but this game did not follow the 1-8 solenoid convention which games after it adopted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple ways that the A-Side / C-Side (A/C after this) relay circuit can fail. If the driving transistor (Q8 for Big Guns and later, Q7 for games prior to Big Guns, and located on the MPU board) shorts, the A/C select relay will be constantly energized, resulting in flashers firing when coils should have fired. If the driving transistor never switches the A/C select relay on, coils will fire when flashers should have fired.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing this behavior is easy. Use the diagnostic buttons to select solenoid test, and watch carefully to see what fires. The display will show the coil/flasher under test. The first 8 drive circuits tested will have an &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. That is, circuits will fire in the following order: 1A, 1C, 2A, 2C, ... 8A, 8C. If the A/C select circuit is not working correctly, the same coil or flasher will fire twice in a row, once for the A side and once for the C side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is generally solenoid 12 in coil test. Placing the &amp;quot;Auto Advance&amp;quot; button in the up position, to repeatedly test solenoid 12, should allow you to hear the A/C relay clicking on and off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of &amp;quot;one side&amp;quot; of the A/C select circuit is not working, the fuse supplying the voltage to that side may be blown. F2 (DC side of BR1) and F8 (AC side of BR1) fuse the 25V circuit. F4 (DC side of BR2) and F7 (AC side of BR2) fuse the 50V circuit. Another suspect is fractured solder joints on the A/C select relay. Reflowing these solder joints is simple. The A/C select relay is relatively heavy and it&#039;s weight puts stress on the solder connection at the printed circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-OKOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing normal, working switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is rare for the A/C relay itself to fail. A possible source of trouble are the miniature contacts on the relay wipers. These are high power, high current, contacts that can be filed with a small point file to restore proper current carrying capacity.  Under no circumstances should you ever use contact cleaner on these contacts, as this could cause a spark or fire to occur. Be careful to not mangle the contact wipers in an attempt to adjust them. Adjust with care. 99% of the time, these switch contacts need no maintenance at all.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-WeldedOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a disassembled A/C select relay with both the A Side and the C Side connected at the center contact pads. It&#039;s rare for one of these relays to &amp;quot;weld&amp;quot; itself to both sides. In this particular instance, the game would fire both the A-side coil and the C-side flasher at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Other failure points are the connectors and headers connecting the aux driver board to the main cpu/driver board. Fractured solder joints can affect the proper operation of the relay. It is good practice to replace, or at minimum, reflow the header pins, and to replace connector pins in their housings with new pins. System 11 games use .156 connectors in most locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And finally, the solder joints holding the A/C select relay to the board may fracture and cause loss of connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On a related note, if the flashers never illuminate during game or test, but the A/C relay physically engages, likewise the flasher lamps are good, and power is present at the lamps, suspect potential failure of the U1 (4N25) U1 optocoupler on the interconnect board.  Starting with Jokerz, the U1 optocoupler on the D-12313 interconnect board was used to identify whether or not the A/C relay has engaged.  Under normal operation, if the A/C relay has engaged, the voltage on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; side passes back to the optocoupler.  In turn, there is a switch on the switch matrix, typically switch 2, which receives the signal from the U1 optocoupler.  Note that U1 is on some previous games like Taxi, but it was not used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems with RottenDog MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPUDIPSwitches.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left| RottenDog MPU with a red switch bank for selecting either Williams or Data East special solenoid implementation.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDMPU004DIPSwitches.jpg ‎‎|300px|thumb|right| These DIP switches on this RottenDog are configured for a Williams game, even though they do not seem to match the PCB silkscreen.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU board can accommodate both Williams and Data East special solenoid implementations. This is accomplished with an 8 DIP switch bank, pictured at left. If set to the wrong game system, special solenoids will not operate properly in your game. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The DIP switch positions should be set the opposite of what you might think, based on the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpecialSolenoidCircuit.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A typical special solenoid circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Special solenoids on system 11 games are similar to the earlier variants used on all previous Williams&#039; board sets.  During gameplay/test modes the primary switches on the special solenoids (usually the pops and slings) are active, allowing actuation of those switches to fire the solenoids.  This is done by grounding an input to a 7402 logic chip which in turn pre-drives a 2n4401 pre-driver transistor which drives a TIP122 Darlington transistor to fire the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During solenoid test mode only, the secondary path to the 7402 is utilized instead to fire the solenoids.  Since there are 2 paths to fire the solenoids, it is possible for a special solenoid to work in game/test mode, but fail the solenoid test due to a failed PIA or 7402 chip, and vice-versa.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the primary switch associated with the special solenoid device. Therefore, System 9 special solenoids are not activated during solenoid test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a special solenoid actuation switch locks on, the solenoid itself will lock on as well, (hopefully) blowing the associated fuse before blowing all or some of the TIP122/2N4401/7402 circuit.  An inline fuse holder can be added to all special solenoids with a 1 amp fuse installed to help prevent this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11B games do not use the special solenoids in the same way. Special solenoid switches were added to the switch matrix instead, keeping all or some of the solenoid pulses under CPU control. It is easy to identify whether a game has CPU controlled special solenoids by inspecting the activation switches on the special solenoids. If there are both a primary and a secondary switch installed, the game operates via the direct-fire special solenoid setup.  (Note that a secondary switch in the case of slingshots does not mean the normal 2nd switch all slings shots employ. Rather, it refers to a switch that only activates when the sling activates. It is installed near the pivot point of the sling arm underneath the playfield.) Also the secondary switches go to CPU connector J18. If nothing is connected to J18, then the special solenoids are CPU controlled. In games like BK2K only the kickers are CPU controlled while the pop bumpers still use the secondary switches.    There was no rhyme or reason (no definitive start / stop point) which System 11B titles used special solenoid secondary switches, and which did not. Please refer to the game list [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11B above] to determine which did / did not use the secondary switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) that &amp;quot;protect&amp;quot; the board logic from shorts between the sense switches and coil power. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The usual cause of special solenoid circuit failure is a stuck switch that locks the associated solenoid on, causing the TIP-122 transistor to fail and the coil to get so hot that the winding insulation melts (causing a reduction of coil resistance, eventually approaching zero ohms). The zener diode (pictured, left) in the circuit may fail shorted as well. This will cause the associated coil to lock on even after repair of the other damaged circuitry since the zener is connected directly to ground. The shorted zener diode causes the 7402/2N4401/TIP122 circuit to react identically to a switch closure. Gack!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;If your game doesn&#039;t use the special solenoid switch inputs as in most System 11B games and all System 11C games (i.e. no connection at 1J18), then these zeners serve no purpose and may be clipped off. &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Unusual Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlwindPinchedWire.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A pinched wire (white/brown) that causes a tough to find solenoid problem.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 method of securing boards sometimes causes odd problems. The securing screws must be removed completely to remove a board vs the improved WPC method of sliding the board off the screw head via a &amp;quot;keyhole&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When securing the boards, it&#039;s important to ensure that wires aren&#039;t pinched behind the board. If a wire is pinched severely enough, the insulation will be displaced and the conductor will contact the backbox ground plain, which can cause a wide range of odd problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wire in the picture shown at left happened to be the ground path for coil #1, the outhole kicker on Whirlwind. When the game was powered on, the coil would lock on until the blanking circuit became active. Pressing the diagnostic/audit coin door button would also result in the coil locking on. This was actually the A/C relay flipping to the coil side for diagnostics and providing power to the coils. The outhole coil had a path to ground via the pinched wire and would lock on. A game could be started and the coil appeared to work properly until &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;any&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the 1 through 8 coils were activated (when the A/C select relay would energize again). At that time, the outhole coil would fire at the same time as the other 1 through 8 coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This one was a real head scratcher!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps wired in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 flash lamps are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
This may seem painfully obvious, but with any lamp problem, where all lamps in the same circuit are not lighting, first see if the associated fuse is blown.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====General Illumination Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
As a rule of thumb, general illumination (GI) lamp issues with System 9 or 11 games are dependent on the era of the game.  The reason for this is GI circuits passed through different boards over the years.  And, the majority of GI issues are typically due to the circuit board.  Not so much the circuit board itself, but the junction between the header pin connections on the circuit board and the connector pins located in the female housings.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is extremely common for the header pins and / or the female connections related to the GI circuit to heat up, and in worse cases char or burn.  When some of these games were in operation earning money, they could potentially be turned on for 8, 12, or more hours every day.  If the connectors were compromised at some time in the game&#039;s life, the issues become compounded.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The problem is a vicious cycle.  If either side of the connector heats up, it creates more resistance.  If it creates more resistance, it draws more current.  If it draws more current, it heats up.  This cycle continues until the connector blows the circuit&#039;s fuse (provided the proper fuse is installed and not by-passed), the connectors are so bad that the circuit no longer has continuity, or the connectors are replaced with new ones.  It is recommended that both the male header pin connector be replaced and the associated pin connectors which connect to it.  Replacing only one side of the connector is only asking for repeat problems down the road.  Header pins rated for 7 amp are highly recommended as a replacement.  If the 7A headers are used, the likelihood of the connector failing due to heat is greatly reduced.  Likewise, the use of Molex Trifurcon connector pins are recommended.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another prevalent problem is the failure of the relay board or the relay board connectors. GI relay boards are typically found under the playfield and on the back of the lamp insert panel. The job of the relay board is to switch the GI lamps on/off for special lighting effects. Over many years of operation, the solder joints on the connector may fracture.  Although it is more common for the male/female connectors to burn badly. Repinning these connectors, as is typical for GI connectors, is the prescribed fix.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Space Shuttle to Fire!=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 GI Circuits.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Typical System 9/11 Power Supply with GI Drivetrain Notated]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During this time period, general illumination entered the power supply [1 / 2], was parsed, and exited the power supply as 4 separate circuits [4].  Although there were 4 discrete GI circuits with 4 separate fuses [5], all 4 circuits were turned on/off via one relay [3] located on the power supply.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the factory connection on the power supply for System 9 games differs than what is shown in the picture. Connections [1 / 2] do not exist on System 9 games, and only two wires are used to input the general illumination instead of four.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Big Guns to Swords of Fury=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone Interconnect.JPG|300px|left|thumb|The interconnect board from a Cyclone mounted to the left side of the backbox]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With all the games mentioned in this particular section, there were some design growing pains.  Williams was creating a preliminary interconnect board, however, it was very different from game to game at first.  Therefore, GI issues may occur at the power supply connections, the interconnect board connections, and / or at one of the discrete GI relay boards used.  Since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A shown at the pic on the left, the general illumination headers, connectors, and connector housings have been changed out due to fatigue / failure.  This is a common failure point on games such as Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Taxi to Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball=====&lt;br /&gt;
The games included during this era used a somewhat standardized interconnect board located below the CPU board.  The GI circuits coming directly from the transformer enter the board on the right side at connector J6.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  In actuality, the GI wires are only 4 wires, instead of 8 wires.  Once the upper 2 wires reach the board, each of them are daisy-chained through the insulation displacement connector (IDC).  Equally, the bottom 2 wires are connected in the same fashion.  This was presumedly done to reduce cost, and decrease the life expectancy of the connection as a whole.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect BK2K GI Marked.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Williams Interconnect Board with general illumination wire colors marked.  Interconnect board is from a Black Knight 2000]]&lt;br /&gt;
The most typical header connections that fail on the interconnect board are J6 (the GI input and return) and J7 (the GI output and return lines to the backbox insert).  The purpose of the picture to the left is to easily identify what GI circuits pass through what connections.  This will aid in attempting to check the continuity of your rework, whether only replacing just one of the header connectors or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the wiring color codes for J6 in the pic are not the incoming wire colors.  The wiring codes in the pic are illustrated this way to determine where the GI circuits disperse throughout the board.  The game&#039;s schematics in the manual include this information too.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that discrete GI relay boards were still used during this time period.  Dependent on the game, there may be one to three discrete GI relay boards used.  Again, since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
======Repairing the General Illumination Input Connector / Wiring======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Butterfly_GI.jpg|thumb|300px|left|General Illumination input connector with looped (butterfly) wiring]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11 Interconnect GI Connection.jpg|thumb|300px|right|One method for repairing the GI input connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
From the factory, only 4 wires total were connected to the GI power and return input connector, which is located on the right hand side of the interconnect board.  With only 4 discrete connections per wire from the transformer, 8 wires are needed to connect to the interconnect board.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  To increase 2 wire connections to 4 wire connections, the wires connect to the IDC connector via one connector pin, pass through that connector pin, and loop back to another connector pin.  In doing this, the life expectancy of the connector and the header pins on the interconnect board are reduced (too much current for these connections to maintain over their lifespan).  The end result is typically burnt connector pins, housings, headers, and in some cases, the interconnect board too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To resolve the burnt connection issue, the header pins on the interconnect board should be replaced with new ones.  Preferably 7A higher current rated header pins.  As for the harness side, the housing should be replaced too, and Molex Trifurcon crimp pins used within the housing.  To compensate for the extra wires needed, each of the input wires will need a &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot; junction soldered in place.  To do so, take a small piece of wire approximately 4&amp;quot; - 5&amp;quot; long.  In the middle of the small piece of wire, carefully strip the insulation, leaving about 1/4&amp;quot; of exposed wire.  Place a piece of heatshrink on the single incoming wire.  Then, bend the small piece of wire at its center where the insulation is stripped, until both ends leads are nearly parallel with one another.  Take the incoming wire, and solder it to the exposed wire in the center.  The end result will look like a rudimentary &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot;.  Pull the heatshrink over the junction, and that&#039;s it.  This needs to be done for the remaining 3 wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the wire modifications, you can also do a board modification. The J6 connector on the right side can be burned to a crisp. Often lifting pads under the printheader. To repair this you can add a jumper wire to the top 4 traces, connecting pin 1-2-3-4 together. This can also be done for the bottom 2 traces, connecting pin 6-8 together, but you are still missing pins 5 and 7 to be connected to 6 and 8. Turn the board over and solder a jumper over pins 5 thru 8. The same can be done for pins 1 thru 4. Now you have the best possible connection.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_1.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board with Modification&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_2.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (front)&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_3.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (back)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorLampMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing lamp matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistor.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The same broken SIP resistor after removal.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Sockets=====&lt;br /&gt;
Failed lamp sockets are not very common with System 9-11c games.  If a specific lamp will not illuminate, spinning the lamp socket canister or solder tab can resolve the issue in some cases.  One thing to keep in mind is that all controlled lamp sockets have a diode soldered to two of the lamp socket tabs.  Due to this, the legs of the diode can get pressed against other leads on the lamp socket resulting in an electrical short.  The end result may be a lamp which shines more brightly than other lamps in the same column or row, or a whole lamp column or row will illuminate dimly when they shouldn&#039;t be lit at all.  The resolution is to inspect all associated lamps in the column or row, and look for solder tabs or diode legs touching where they should not be.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Pinbot, Williams introduced lamp boards.  Lamp boards were used in areas where lamp inserts were positioned too closely together, and it did not make logical sense (or it was not physically possible) to use individual lamp sockets.  With subsequent games, lamp boards were used whenever lamp inserts were &amp;quot;nested&amp;quot; in groups.  This trend was presumedly done to save on assembly and production costs.  One benefit of lamp boards is that bulb replacemnt became easier in most cases.  A simple turn of the twist lamp socket (WMS # 24-8767), and the 555 bulb could be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Lamp Board.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early direct solder lamp board as seen on Pinbot - the large color matrix below the top and right colored targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generations of lamp boards had the lamp column and row wires soldered directly to the board.  On one hand, this is beneficial, because there is one less mechanical connection used in the lamp circuits.  On the other hand, it makes it more difficult to remove the lamp boards completely from the game to clean and / or service.  On the plus side, very little goes wrong with the direct wired lamp boards.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|300px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Two things that can fail are individual lamp circuit diodes or the solder pads can develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot;, where the twist sockets make physical contact with the board.  To overcome the divots, simply add a little solder, and carefully reflow the solder pads.  Make certain not to apply too much heat...just enough to evenly flow the solder.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Fire!, Williams started using lamp boards with .156&amp;quot; header connections for the lamp column and row lines.  This allowed for easy removal and service of the lamp boards.  However, it introduced some new problems.  Because the lamp boards used were single-sided, (this was presumably a cost analysis decision), the .156&amp;quot; header pins can develop cold solder joints and crack due to vibration.  The problem can easily be rectified by removing the old solder from the header pins, and applying fresh, new solder.  This style of lamp board is susceptible to the same issues (bad diodes and divots) as mentioned in the direct wired lamp boards section above.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===== Adjacent Columns or Rows Lighting Simultaneously =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsS11ShortedLampColumnDrives.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Column drive transistor tabs touching, shorted together. Here, lamp columns 3 and 4 would light at the same time.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A problem seen fairly often is the tabs of either column drives or row returns touching, and therefore shorted and causing more than one column (in the picture at left) or row to light at the same time. If you have this issue, it&#039;s easy to quickly examine the column drive and row return transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===== Lamp Matrix Row and Column Testing =====&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using a jumper wire.  The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the lamp matrix columns and rows.  The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_columns.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]] &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP42 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns.  Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it&#039;s function is to prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix.  In this test we are only connecting a single lamp at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J7.  There is no pin 5 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a column doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q66&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q64&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q62&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q60&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q58&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q56&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q54&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q52&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_rows.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP102/122 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J6.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a row doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test. The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q80&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q81&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q82&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q83&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Grn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q84&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q85&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q86&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q87&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using MOSFETs in the Lamp Matrix Circuitry=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Procedure by Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. Using modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06), the heat (and power consumption) can be reduced substantially.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETSchematic.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Typical &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation (left), &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation on right. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics shown at left compare the widely used &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation with the &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation that uses two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half. Doing so drives the MOSFET with a 9 VDC Vgs.&amp;lt;br  clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 9 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors and IRF9Z34N FETs installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q23-30&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR5&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 11 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R82-89&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR16&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11_mosfet.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A very clean alternate implementation with resistors on the component side. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider DumbAss&#039;&#039;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shown at left is a very clean installation of all parts on the component side of the board. Note that the 1K resistors are situated such that the &amp;quot;body&amp;quot; of the resistor passes between the MOSFETs instead of the legs, thereby eliminating the possibility of a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.  Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorSwitchMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing switch matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Row and Column Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the switch matrix can be tested by simulating switch closures using a jumper wire on both System 9 and System 11 (all revision levels) MPUs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem9SwitchMatrixTesting.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Testing the System 9 switch matrix, but jumpering from pins on 1J8 to pins on 1J10.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As seen at left, testing the switch matrix rows and columns on a System 9 MPU is identical to testing on a System 11 MPU except for which connectors to use. The switch columns on the System 9 MPU at 1J8 are numbered right to left. The switch rows at 1J10 are numbered left to right. 1J9 is available (sometimes not stuffed) for opto switch processing, although this feature may never been used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 switch matrix operates on 5VDC. The switch columns at 1J8 are &amp;quot;strobed&amp;quot; by being pulled to ground successively by the 6821 PIA. The switch columns are normally pulled high via a pull-up resistor. If the switch at the intersection of the column and row is closed, when the column is strobed, the row will be pulled low too. In this way, the processor knows which column it strobed, and which rows return that strobe.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the system 11 switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_col.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix columns.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J10 pin 9, the leftmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated.  The test may report the switch name, refer to the switch matrix table in the manual to correlate the name to the switch number.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J8 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to row 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J8.  There is no pin 6 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire Colors&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Switch number&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_row.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix rows.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J10 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J10 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to column 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J10.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Shorted or non-working switch column====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One or more failed switch columns can be caused by a failed column drive transistor (Q42 through Q49, all 2N4401s) or a failed 1K SIP resistor pack at SRC6.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The column drive transistor part was changed with the system 11B MPU. System 9 to 11A MPUs use 2N3904 transistors at location Q42 to Q49 with 1.5Kohm inline resistors (R71 through R78). These column drive transistors fail quite often as these MPUs age. These 2N3904 transistors can be replaced with 2N4401s. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When System 11B was introduced, the switch column drives were changed to 2N5550s with 470 ohm inline resistors. The more commonly found, and beefier 2N5551, is a good substitute for the 2N5550. Before replacing the transistor, be sure which kind the board uses. Some early system 11B MPUs were stuffed with 2N3904s despite the schematics indicating otherwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A broken SIP can also cause a switch column not to work. This usually happens with System 11 and 11A CPUs. With 11B WMS also changed the switch section layout and eliminated most of the SIPs. The likely candidates are SRC6 and SR11. In the case of SRC6, measure resistance between pin 1 and 2 to 9. If it&#039;s broken it&#039;s usually open after pin 3 or 4. This is a bussed 1K SIP with additional 470pfd capacitors connected to ground and practically NLA. Fortunately the caps are not needed because they are also mounted on the board so it can be replaced with a standard 9-8 1K SIP. Pin 10 which is the common ground for the caps is not used here. SR11 is a standard bussed 560 ohm 10-9 SIP. Here you measure resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 to 10. Be aware that two types of SIPs are used on the board: bussed and isolated. If you suspect a different SIP has failed check the schematics for the pin layout. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Brokensip.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A broken resistor SIP.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a broken resistor package similar to SRC6 but out of a System 11 master display. As can be seen, the part may look solid to the naked eye, but it&#039;s actually fractured.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ground Row Shorts====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11CrackedSR11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Note the fracture in the SIP at SR11. The fracture became apparent only after desoldering the part.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A possible cause for one or more ground row shorts (indicated by the game software on the score display during switch test) is a fractured resistor SIP at SR11 (a 560 ohm 10-pin bussed resistor network). SR11 is a pull-up resistor that is connected between each switch row return and 5VDC. If the return is not pulled up, that return will look like a low signal continuously, which the MPU interprets as a row ground short. Visual inspection of the SIP &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;might or might not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; identify the cause of the problem. A better test is to remove the switch row return connector (J10) and probe each pin with a logic probe. The logic probe should indicate &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; for every pin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Specific to the board pictured at left, a logic probe indicated that J10 pins 1, 2, and 3 were all high but the remaining pins had no signal at all. The fracture can easily be seen between pins 5 and 6 of the SIP (pin 4 isn&#039;t used) meaning that pins 6 through 10 were not connected to 5VDC and therefore not pulling the switch row return to logic high. Hence, the MPU declared a row ground short for rows 1 through 5.  Note that the actual fracture can rarely be seen prior to attempted removal of the resistor network from the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 4N25 Opto Couplers in the Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:4N25System11InterconnectBoard.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Three 4N25 Opto Couplers on a Williams System 11 Interconnect Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games that include an Interconnect Board may use 4N25 Opto Couplers to detect power being applied to the flippers or to detect 28VDC being applied to the A/C relay (as in Rollergames). Pre-Fliptronic WPC games that use the -1 power/driver board also use 4N25 Opto Couplers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These opto couplers are connected to the game switch matrix. Detecting these switches is most often used for lane change and for entering HSTD initials. If one of these functions no longer works, the 4N25 opto couplers should be considered suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, testing an opto coupler is simple using the diode test function provided by most DMMs. Set the DMM to diode test, compare results against those pictured below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Testing a 4N25 Opto Coupler&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Internal.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The internal schematic of the 4N25. Pins 1 and 2 connect to an internal diode (LED). Pins 4 thru 6 connect to a PNP photo transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test3.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the diode connected to pins 1 and 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test2.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 5, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test1.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 4, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switches Not Registering with a Rottendog MPU / Driver Board Installed====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_Before.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_After.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Modified Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the opto switches are not registering at all in a game, and a Rottendog MPU board is being used, suspect that it is an older style board.  This board can easily be upgraded though.  U2 will have to be switched from a 74HCT240 to a 74HC240 chip, and RA5 will have to be changed from a 9-pin 4.7K ohm bussed SIP resistor network to a 9-pin 560 ohm bussed SIP resistor network.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 9/11 High Voltage Section Repair&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don&#039;t continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.  &lt;br /&gt;
====High Voltage Issues With the Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Check Voltages=====&lt;br /&gt;
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working.    &lt;br /&gt;
On the Power Supply Board, use a DMM set to DC volts with the - lead grounded, probe the following connector &lt;br /&gt;
pins to determine if the HV section needs repair.  If the display fuse, F1 is blowing, &lt;br /&gt;
you should remove the applicable display connector (with power off) before testing the voltages. Note that these are &amp;quot;loaded&amp;quot; voltages. If you are testing on the bench, or without displays connected, your measurements may vary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-11883 or D-12246:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 1 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 3 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-8345-xxx:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 3 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 4 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the test points are more than about 5 volts out of spec, then your HV section may &lt;br /&gt;
be malfunctioning (if you or a previous owner replaced Z2/Z4 with 1N4763A diodes to purposely reduce the display voltage, test readings in the 90&#039;s range would be normal).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check the table below for a solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Troubleshooting table=====&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Symptom&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Cause&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacement&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 0V ON BOTH +100/-100 lines&lt;br /&gt;
| Check F1 &lt;br /&gt;
| 1/4 Amp SB&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D3&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR1, ZR2&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R1&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q4&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR3, ZR4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q3&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R4&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=4 | F1 1/4 Amp Fuse Blows&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Capacitor at C1 and C3&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Display&lt;br /&gt;
| Display Glass*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN7180&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN7180*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN6118&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN6118*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| +118V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| -118V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  colspan=3 | * located on display board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Displays Test With no Shorts&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Once the displays are tested and shorts are eliminated, we can proceed with the HV section repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacing the components in the HV Section&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Since there are not that many components, if you are having problems isolating the &lt;br /&gt;
fault, a quick solution is to replace all the components in &lt;br /&gt;
the HV section. If only one side (+ or -) is failing, it is possible to rebuild only the failing side.&lt;br /&gt;
Check the parts section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the replacement parts for one or both failing sides:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;-Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+,-Location&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340 (or MJE15030)&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350 (or MJE15031)&lt;br /&gt;
| Q1,Q3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
| Q2,Q4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| Z1,Z3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| Z2,Z4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| R1,R4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| R2,R5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| R3,R6&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| C2,C4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| C1,C3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| colspan=4 | **This is a 91V Zener to reduce the voltage to prolong display life&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSPartIdentification.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visual depiction of the parts in a System 11 high voltage section. Note that the legs of the MJE15030/MJE51031 are crossed as this power supply originally used OEM parts SDS-201 and SDS-202]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;strong&amp;gt;Remove and replace HV components&amp;lt;/strong&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Stuff board with new components.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Leave a little space under components for air flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Bend leads on components so they won&#039;t fall out when board is inverted for soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Solder the parts to the board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip excess off leads&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE340/MJE350 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE340/MJE350 is the heat-sinked transistor.  On most Williams boards, this transistor pin configuration is not the same as the original part.  It will need to be installed vertically with heat sink attached to the transistor only.  The transistor will sit at about a 45 degree angle so the legs can be lined up to fit in the correct holes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check your board and insure correct orientation before soldering in place.  Late versions of the System 11 series boards were designed to use the pin configuration of the MJE340/MJE350 transistors.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Do not mount vertically if the power supply is designed to use the pin configurations of the newer transistors!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MJEInstall.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE15030/MJE15031 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys11MJELegsCrossed.jpg|300px|left|thumb|High Voltage section with MJE15031 installed. Note the crossed legs on the left transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 PS Alt HV Transistor Pads.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Power supply with pads for both styles of HV transistors]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 are rated for higher power and can be used instead of the MJE340/MJE350 (the MJE340/MJE350 are well within design specifications and are suitable replacements at 1/3 the cost of the MJE15030/MJE15031). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 pin configuration has the Base and Emitter reversed as compared to the MJE340/MJE350. In the image at left, the left transistor (MJE15031) shows one method of crossing the legs safely. The transistor&#039;s two left legs are shifted right on position. The third leg is then jumpered to the boards left through hole position.  If you prefer not to cross legs, this transistor can also be mounted vertically, but this transistor would be facing the opposite direction as compared to the MJE340/MJE350 pictured above.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some power supplies which have pads for both the SDS-201/SDS-202 or the MJE15030/MJE15031 style of transistors.  In the pic to the right, the MJE15030/MJE15031 transistors are installed from the factory, but there are solder pads just below for installation of the SDS-201/SDS-202 transistors. If installing ME15030/MJE15031, the upper pads are used, and no leg crossing is required.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready to test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the rebuilt power supply, return to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Check Voltages&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; section of this guide.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9-11 HV section of the PSU is very similar in design to the earlier System 3-7.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Power_Supply_Issues|Sys 3-7 PSU Problems]] section entitled &#039;&#039;&#039;+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU&#039;&#039;&#039;, for more detail.  It also provides links to source complete HV rebuild kits which will normally cost under $10 shipped.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Panel Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segment Identification=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegmentLetters.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Alphanumeric and Numeric Segment Identification.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Will Not Light=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PlasmaBallTest.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Testing a high voltage plasma display with an inexpensive plasma ball]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If power to the display is correct, and the display was moved to a known working display panel position (if possible), it is possible that the display has outgassed. A plasma ball can be used to determine if a display glass is outgassed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A Youtube video demonstrating the use of an inexpensive plasma ball for this purpose can be found [https://youtube.com/shorts/GGftl3S_OWg?si=T5Cdzyovtar6_Han &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segments Light &amp;quot;In Sympathy&amp;quot; With Other Segments=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ShortedSegments.jpg|300px|left|thumb|In this image, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; light simultaneously, even though only one segment should be lit. The last two characters illustrate the issue clearly. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider Pinball50.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Internal shorts within a display glass can cause segments to light &amp;quot;in sympathy&amp;quot; with other segments. That is, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot;, for example, will both light, when only one of the segments &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;should&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be lit. Segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; is lit and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; is lit. This is caused by an internal short within the glass. The short can be confirmed by &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;removing the leads of the associated segments from the PCB&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; and measuring resistance between them. The resistance should be infinite, or open.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, there is no way to repair the glass and it should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Commas stuck on (Players 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4)=====&lt;br /&gt;
System 9: Check IC36 on the MPU (6821 PIA)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 16 = Players 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 17 = Players 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game in attract mode, check these pins with a logic probe. They should go low each time the displays turn off. if they stay high, the PIA is likely bad and will need to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Fuse F1 Blows=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the UDN Chips&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the display fuse is blowing, you should check the display board for shorts before connecting&lt;br /&gt;
a new or rebuilt power supply to the display board, as a shorted display or chip can damage a good power&lt;br /&gt;
supply.  Remove the display board from the system.  The display characters are driven by the two types &lt;br /&gt;
of UDN chips, the UDN7180 &amp;amp; UDN6118 (or UDN6184).  Locate these chips (there are several)&lt;br /&gt;
on the board and test them with your DMM set to diode check.  Clip your + (RED) &lt;br /&gt;
lead to the ground trace of the board.  Probe the UDN chips as shown in the diagram.  &lt;br /&gt;
If any shorts are read in the tested pins, the display should not be connected to the power &lt;br /&gt;
supply until the shorts are corrected.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pins labeled &#039;dont care&#039;), the UDN&lt;br /&gt;
chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board.  Take care to preserve this chip,&lt;br /&gt;
as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace.  Now install an IC socket in its place.&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat the test with no chip installed.  If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing Display Glass=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change1.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed with glass nipple in proper location]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change2.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Replacement glass installed after circuit board was drilled to allow for glass nipple in different location]]&lt;br /&gt;
All plasma displays have a finite life expectancy.  Display glass replacements were and are offered in several configurations.  The differences in these configurations are mainly the placement or lack of a display &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; on the back of the glass.  The glass nipple is what can pose as somewhat of a problem, when replacing a display glass.  Williams did place a rather large hole in the display circuit board.  However, the placement of the glass nipple has changed.  To overcome this issue, a hole can carefully be drilled through the circuit board to allow for the glass nipple.  When drilling, drill successive holes, starting with a small drill bit first, rather than drilling one large hole.  This will reduce the chances of the circuit board &amp;quot;splintering&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At one time, [http://www.pinballpcb.com/Displays.html pinballpcb.com] did offer replacement displays and / or just the replacement display circuit boards.  Neither of these products are available anymore.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit Repair.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Original display glass was secured to its circuit board with double-sided, high tack, foam tape.  If this cannot be acquired, a simple method to secure an existing or new display glass is to use silicone caulk or RTV caulk.  However, in following this method, the glass must be supported on the board until the caulk cures.  Wrapping the glass with rubber bands is a great way to do this.  Once the caulk is cured, just cut off the rubber bands.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Logic States of Display Output Signals for a Working MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
These logic states were recorded from a System 11A board. This board was running Swords of Fury code in display test mode manually paused with all characters / digits on &amp;quot;8&amp;quot;.  This is for games with a 4 x 7 display board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
L=LOW, H=HIGH, P=PULSE&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ3 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || H&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ2 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || None (Key) &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ1 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || L || 1 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || L || 3 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || L || 5 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || L || 7 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L || 9 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || L || 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 14 || L || 13 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 16 || L || 15 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 18 || L || 17 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 20 || P || 19 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 22 || P || 21 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 24 || P || 23 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 26 || P || 25 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jumper Settings for a newer System 9 Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board jumpers.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Jumpers Circled on a Comet System 9 Speech Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned above, the System 9 speech board is essentially the same as the System 6/7 speech board. However, the newer speech board has jumpers added to increase the flexibility of EPROMs used.  Either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs can be used.  If using 2532 EPROMs, install jumpers W2 and W4, and remove jumpers W1 and W3.  If using 2732 EPROMs, install jumpers W1 and W3, and remove jumpers W2 and W4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Sound or Speech Calls=====&lt;br /&gt;
To start a sound test, simply press the SW2 momentary switch at the bottom of the CPU board located between connections 1J16 and 1J17.  Once SW2 is pressed, the CPU will cycle through all of the sound / speech calls continuously.  Each System 9 game has a chart located in the manual, which lists the speech and sound calls made during test.  The benefit of the chart in the manual is that it lists the ROM where a particular call originates.  If a particular sound / speech call is not heard, the associated ROM listed for that call may be bad.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another result of speech calls missing is possibly a bad U2 or U3 on the speech board.  Both of these chips are 1458 op-amps.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Isolating the CPU Sound from the Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the sound / speech calls originate from the CPU board, while the remaining calls originate from the speech board.  If after running a game through sound test by pressing SW2, and some sounds are missing or very low in volume, a good idea is to isolate the CPU board from the speech board.  All of the sounds originated on the CPU board, leave the board via the 40 pin ribbon cable, and go to the speech board for mixing.  Once mixed, all of the sounds and speech are then returned to the CPU board, amplified, and sent out to the speakers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Much like the System 6/7 sound and speech boards, the sound can be isolated from the speech board for testing purposes.  The System 6/7 Type 2 sound board uses a jumper at position W1.  When jumper W1 is installed, the sound board can be diagnosed without the speech board installed.  The equivalent with the System 9 CPU board is jumper W10.  This jumper is typically not connected.  However, when it is connected, the sounds originating from the CPU board can be heard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Locate jumper W10 on the CPU board.  W10 is located to the right of SW2 on the board. There should be two very small wires clipped on either side of W10, as if W10 was installed and removed. Connect an alligator test lead across the short leads of W10.  If the short leads are not present, a short light gauge wire or wire wrap can be tack soldered to the solder pads of W10, or use a jumper wire to connect the lower legs of C32 and R76 which are just right of W10 (see pic, below).  With a jumper installed at W10, some sounds should be heard when SW2 is pressed. Sound test, via the coin door diagnostic button is likely to provide sounds for all but sound 7, which is a voice call. If no sounds are heard, further troubleshooting must be performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=350px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Adding W10 to a System 9 CPU Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumper.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Locating jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumped.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Temporarily jumpering W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System9JumperTemporary.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Alternate for jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games are known to &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; a bit. The &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; is caused by electromagnetic interference from the lamp matrix insinuating itself on the sound circuit. To minimize the interference, ensure all boards are screwed tightly to the backbox ground plain, with all screws installed.  This improves grounding and will help minimize &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another cause of hum could be an inconsistent +5DC volts from the power supply. An indicator of this being the cause of hum would be the game occasionally resetting as well.  Replacing caps C8 and C10 on the power supply may correct this issue.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the version of System 11 board, an 11C board or anything else (nothing, 11A, and 11B), sounds and music are handled with different specifics.  With the first 3 generations of MPU boards, the sounds originate from the MPU board and the background music originates from the sound board.  With the 11C board, both sounds and music are on the sound board, as the MPU no longer has a sound section populated on it. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume POT value=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 5K linear volume POT. Others shipped with a 10K linear volume POT. Both POT values work fine and either can be used to replace a failed volume POT.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 50 ohm resistor soldered to the volume POT. It is thought that this resistor was included so that the volume could never be turned to zero. For route games, at least some sound was thought to increase game earning potential. This resistor can be removed or jumpered around to enable turning the sound volume completely off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Boot Up Diagnostic Tones for the D-11297, D-11298, and D-11581 Sound Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11297, D-11298, and the D-11581 sound boards all provide diagnostic tones (&amp;quot;bongs&amp;quot;) at power on.  A single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; means that the sound board is operating properly.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of a bong indicates a problem with the sound board or it&#039;s connections. The possible causes for failure are numerous, including a failed amplifier, missing or incorrect connector placement, missing or noisy (AC ripple) power for a required voltage (-12VDC), failed speakers or the connection to the speakers, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is healthy enough to perform it&#039;s own self-diagnosis, it will attempt to indicate the problem by playing a specific number of bongs, as shown in the tables below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11297 &amp;amp; D-11298 Sound Boards&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U3 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11581 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U5 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Diagnostics Via the MPU Board for Games Prior to 11C=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the upper switch of the two switches on the side of the MPU board will test both the CVSD and DAC on the MPU board.  The first sound is typically sound ROM (on the MPU) specific, and it is a test of the CVSD chip.  The second sound is described as a  &amp;quot;twing&amp;quot;, and it is a test for the DAC.  If no sounds are heard, refer to the potential issues listed above in the previous section.  If one &amp;quot;ring&amp;quot; is heard, it denotes that the U23 RAM chip has failed.  Two or four rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U21 ROM.  Three or five rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U22 ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Connecting the Speaker and Volume Connections for a System 11 MPU Board on the Bench=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS Sys11 Speaker Volume Connection.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Speaker and Non-adjustable Volume Control Connected on a System 11 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the sound on a System 11 MPU on the bench, a speaker and volume control must be connected to connectors 1J15 and 1J16 respectively. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The speaker should connect to pins 2 and 3 of 1J15. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the adjacent pic, a 470Kohm resistor was used in lieu of a volume pot.  Other resistor values can be used, but 470Kohm allows the sound to be set to a comfortable audible level.  Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped into a .156&amp;quot; housing as shown. This resistor/connector set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3 through System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using alligator clip leads to power the board, use special care as to not send +12v down the -12v line (the pins are adjacent to one another).  Sending +12v down the -12v bus will most definitely destroy the 1408 DAC chip (if populated).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Is Very Faint Even at Maximum Volume =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:55536-CVSD.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Two hard to find 55536 CVSD ICs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
While most techs would suspect either a TL082 or a TL084 amplifier (on a pre-DCS sound board) or a 1458 amplifier (on a System 11 MPU) as the cause of this issue, the 55516/55532/55536/55564 CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta-Modulator) can also cause this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isolation to the CVSD is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into sound test.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use an oscilloscope to probe pins 9 and 12. A scope must be used since the signals are too subtle for a logic probe to detect.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 is a clock signal. &lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 12 is a data signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is making sounds that use the CVSD, both pin 9 and pin 12 should show &amp;quot;off nominal&amp;quot; signals. If the CVSD is working correctly, the output at pin 3 should be showing signal also. If it is not, then the CVSD has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Some Sounds Lower Volume Than Others =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11DACChannel.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The sound section of a System 11 MPU and the 2N3904 amplifying transistor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another sound anomaly manifests as some sounds being more faint than others is a failure in the 1408 DAC sound lane channel. In High Speed, for example, &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot; exercises both the 1408 and 55536 sound lanes. Sounds 1, 3, and 5 are all made via the 1408 DAC lane. If those sounds are faint, the issue could be the 10uf capacitor (C8), the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) that is used as a pre-amplifier, the 3.3K resistor (R7), or the 1408 DAC. Eliminating the easy possibilities first, replace the 10uf capacitor. If that doesn&#039;t fix the issue, replace the 2N3904. The 2N3904 may &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot; as failed, but not always. If the issue still remains, replace R7. Lastly, replace the 1408 DAC (U2). An equivalent part that may be used is the DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video, showing the problem and resolution can be viewed [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7fk3PtwvtE here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS_Sys11_1408_flipped_lid.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 1408 in the sound section of a System 11 MPU lost its top!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In another instance, Pin*Bot, all of the sounds were faint, except the last two in test.  This ended up being a bad 1408 DAC.  The last two sounds were unaffected, because the 55516 CVSD chip handled them.  With a visual inspection, the 1408 in the pic could not be determined it was bad, until it was in the midst of being desoldered from the circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Voice callouts are much softer than music/sound =====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A and 11B MPU boards were populated with different resistor and capacitor value parts. If an 11A MPU is installed into an 11B game (F-14 into an Earthshaker for instance), it is possible that the voice callouts will be noticeably softer than the other music/sound. The following table details the difference between the two sound mixing sections &#039;&#039;(Thanks to Pinsider &amp;quot;Mneubey&amp;quot;)&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11n_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11 (nothing) sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Resistors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R21 is 12K in 11B, 15K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R22 is 22K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R19 is 56K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R16 is 180K in 11B, 56K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R17 is 270K in 11B, 220K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R15 is 180K in 11B, 43K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R20 is 12K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Capacitors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C12 is 470pf in 11B, 1200pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C11 is 100pf in 11B, 180pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C10 is 470pf in 11B, 1800pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11b_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11B sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Board D-11581 Mixer Section Resistor Values =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D11581ResistorValues.jpg|500px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Mixer&amp;quot; section resistor values across D-11581 sound board games. &#039;&#039;Data courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A through 11C sound boards were populated with different resistor values. The table shown at left details the differences between the sound mixing sections for each game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the value of R13 will change also. It should be 4.99K for &amp;quot;Fire!&amp;quot; through &amp;quot;Police Force&amp;quot;, and 10K for all other games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Some Music or Garbled Music with a D-11581 Sound Board and 5 Bongs=====&lt;br /&gt;
A sound board booting with 5 bongs indicates a failure of the U20 ROM. While U20 could, in fact, have failed, 5 bongs could also mean that the software can&#039;t access U20. In one such case where 5 bongs were heard, during music test, tests 4 and 6 would play music but the music was garbled and/or incorrect. The root cause was W10/W11 jumper settings on the sound board that didn&#039;t match the ROM size. W10/W11 should be set to the left for 27256 ROMs; to the right for 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Modifying a pre-System 11C Sound Board to use 27512 ROMs (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. Note that W3 is &amp;quot;always IN&amp;quot;. The solder mask over the W3 jumper trace has been removed for clarity. Normally the trace is covered by a dashed white silkscreen line.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3Modified.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. W3 has been cut to enable use of 27512 ROMs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some revisions of the D-11581 sound board will not accept 27512 sound ROMs without modification. By the time that revision C was manufactured, jumpers W10 and W11 were added above U20 to enable use of larger ROMs. Prior to that, jumpers W2 and W3 were implemented, but were of little use since both jumpers tied A15 (pin 1) of each EPROM to +5VDC. Making the modification pictured at right, then installing jumper W2, enables the use of 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jokerz specific sound issue=====&lt;br /&gt;
A special case of interference is present on the Jokerz game, which uses a unique stereo sound board.  A deficiency in its design prevents all of the noise from being eliminated from the board.  Details can be found in the original Williams service bulletin here: [http://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf Jokerz service bulletin at IPDB.org]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Whirlwind Doesn&#039;t play Sound 7 During Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
This particularly annoying issue appears to have no impact during gameplay. The only manifestation is that &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot;, sound 7 doesn&#039;t play. The normal sound is an explosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This issue is caused by old game ROM versions at U26 and U27. Revision PA1 doesn&#039;t send the command to the sound subsystem to play sound 7, even though sound 7 is displayed on the alphanumeric display. Updating U26/U27 to &amp;quot;LA3&amp;quot; as can be found at www.ipdb.org will correct this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:YT.png]] Correct Whirlwind sounds are demonstrated in a YouTube video found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Board Theory of Operation (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated and including jumpers W10 and W11]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Major components of the D-11581 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*68B09E externally clocked CPU, which is also used in all WPC MPU and pre-DCS sound boards&lt;br /&gt;
*68B21 Peripheral Interface Adapter, capable of running at 2Mhz&lt;br /&gt;
*Up to 3 ROMs. All boards can accommodate 27256 ROMs. Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
*6116 RAM (2K bytes). Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate a 6264 RAM (8K bytes)&lt;br /&gt;
*YM2151 sound synthesizer paired with the YM3012 DAC (outputs channel 1 and channel 2)&lt;br /&gt;
*55516 CVSD (continuously variable slope delta) audio encoder, which provides a 3rd audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*1408 DAC (digital to analog converter), which provides a 4th audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*Various 74XX ICs that perform address decoding and chip selection logic&lt;br /&gt;
*1458 pre-amplifiers and TDA2002 amplifiers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11581 sound board shares a lot of board design and architecture of the pre-DCS sound board that was introduced with WPC games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power requirements for the board are supplied via connector J3. The typical sound board power levels are required, 5VDC, 12VDC, -12VDC, and Ground. Three 100uf capacitors reduce noise on the power busses along with several small ceramic caps which filter high frequency noise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Reset&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The on board 68B09E is reset via the external reset signal provided by the MPU board, via connection J4, pin 18. If attempting to operate the board without the MPU board connected, the processor must be manually reset via momentarily grounding pin 37 of the 68B09E.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Clocking&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clocking signal for the board originates at the 8Mhz crystal oscillator. U16, a 74LS74 Dual D-Type FlipFlop divides the clock signal yielding both the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Q&amp;quot;clock signal. E and Q are phase shifted by one half clock cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chip Select Logic&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chip select is accomplished via the normal &amp;quot;memory mapped I/O&amp;quot; method, using U14 (74LS139) and U15 (74LS138). &lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for all three ROMs (U4, U19, U20) is implemented by U14.&lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for the RAM (U5), YM2151 (U3), and the 6821 (U12) is implemented by U15.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;How sounds are produced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are provided via J4, a dual row .100 connector of 20 pins. These sound selects are held &amp;quot;normally high&amp;quot; via a 4.7K/470pf 10-pin bussed SIP pull-up resistor/capacitor (SR1) tied to 5VDC. These SIP resistor/capacitor parts are no longer available. A bussed 4.7K 9-pin resistor network can be used as a replacement. The capacitor feature of the original part filtered high frequency noise from the communication lines. In practice, noise doesn&#039;t impact the interface significantly enough to be of concern.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board will pull the appropriate sound select signals to ground via the 6821 PIA at Uxx. When the appropriate signals are pulled to ground, the PIA is programmed to interrupt the 68B09E processor via the FIRQ and NMI signals. The 68B09E then reads the sound select signals presented at the 6821s input port (PB0 through PB7) via the processor data bus (D0 through D7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor then employs the 4 sound channels available to it, along with encoded sound files contained in the ROM images, to create the intended sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Where Do The Sounds Come From?====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections can be used to ensure that all sounds are played by the Williams combined MPU and Sound Board System.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Comet|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-2m7vKCeg2A Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Sorcerer || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pXacwGqv5C4 Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Shuttle || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/B-gsuEw1jgU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Cats || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-JJKPvMBplg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bally Game Show || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/vwA4FST62ug Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Banzai Run || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/6D87Z2iUsv0?si=x8BKbDsxHFI_yodb Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight 2000 || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/uyJlxc2ewtY Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Cyclone || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pEdSxFu1Zio Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Diner || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rwCLpG5jU2I Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Earthshaker || [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eH0FVvbBQUQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Elvira &amp;amp; the Party Monsters || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/OS_SRCNaMwg?si=6Wop4YLK2wa6Mco4 Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| F-14 Tomcat || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rG26I-oDK6E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Fire! || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/dXKRw1GqUcQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| High Speed || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/yAmJzD9EAZA Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| PinBot || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/CoVvhwggLfU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Police Force || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/Em63v0-zJKk?si=gt3qD2jLsqJFdwlW Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Pool Sharks || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/gceZEgLMaDQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Rollergames || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/tN-Ns9eh8Pg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Station || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/9XERXpVGCsY?si=jSNjikeN1nM6GeQy Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Swords of Fury || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/u6baQrse5LI?si=3Y85cpAXqDF5_Qis Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Taxi || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/P7DIs5djK-E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Whirlwind|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Circuit Schematics Error ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Correct wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems Incorrect.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Incorrect wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.  Some of the early System 11 manuals show incorrect wiring for the EOS switch.  One of the EOS switch wires should be soldered to the center lug of the coil.  However, the other wire should be soldered to the lug with the non-banded side (anode) of the diode, not the lug with the banded side (cathode) of the diode.  Manuals which have this misinformation are High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings. Millionaire and Pinbot appear to be fine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Electrical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;50V Flipper Power Board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;Aux Power Supply&amp;quot; board that was introduced with these games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and 11 flipper circuitry is identical to all prior Williams System 3-7 games. The design had not changed from even the old electro-mechanical flipper implementation when the End of Stroke switch was introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yes, Williams used serial wound coils from High Speed to Millionaire and then converted to parallel wound coils beginning with F-14 TomCat and throughout the rest of the System 11 run and into the WPC run. But the basic operation of System 9/11 coils remained &amp;quot;EM-like&amp;quot; whether serial or parallel wound.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are only three switches that can affect the electrical operation of a System 11 flipper, including strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Switches inside the Flipper Enable relay (K1), located on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The cabinet flipper button switches.&lt;br /&gt;
#An End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch associated with each flipper coil and integrated into the flipper mechanism assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Series Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the flipper coil. The EOS switch is closed, creating a short across the low power windngs, that removes resistance of the low power windings from the circuit. Only the smaller number of high power windings are &amp;quot;in circuit&amp;quot; with the EOS switch closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at the low resistance high power windings of the coil. The coil plunger is pulled into the coil and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, removing the short across the low power windings, and placing them in series along with the high power windings. Together, the total resistance of the coil becomes the sum of both the low power and the high power windings. With more windings, the coil will have higher resistance and hence, lower power. The combined high resistance windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelWoundFlipperDiagram.jpg|left|400px|thumb|Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Diagram courtesy of Chris Hibler.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the low power windings of the flipper coil. And, since the EOS switch is closed, the high power windings also have a path to ground. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;both&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; of the coil parallel windings. Since electrical current &amp;quot;takes the path of least resistance&amp;quot; the lower resistance high power winding takes most of the current and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, breaking the path to ground for the high power windings. The high resistance low power windings remain in circuit, and provide &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; power to the flipper coil. The high resistance low power windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Mechanical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Return springs&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured nylon bushing&lt;br /&gt;
*Insufficient gap between nylon bushing and crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat damaged coil&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil sleeve&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil stop&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper shaft slipping within crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Others?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 Display Single AlphaNumeric Character Won&#039;t Light===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11B Bridged Header.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A solder bridge on the &amp;quot;digit strobe&amp;quot; connector.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the category of &amp;quot;things that will make you crazy&amp;quot;, the solder bridge pictured at left shorted pins 8 and 9 on the connector that carries the digit strobes to a System 11 display. This prevented one of the digits on the display from ever lighting. It&#039;s always a good idea to examine prior work closely. Assuming the prior tech knew what they were doing is not always valid.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a System 6/7 Speech Board in a Comet===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 CPU with 2732 Speech.JPG|300px|left|thumb|A Modified System 6/7 Speech Board Functioning with a System 9 CPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should the need arise, a System 6/7 speech board can be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified to use 2732 EPROMs] for a Comet.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a Data East MPU Board in a System 11 Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Whaaaat?!?!  Yes, a Data East MPU can be used in a Williams or Bally System 11 game.  However, this is limited to System 11C games only, and only a DE 520-5003-03 (Version 3) MPU can be used.  The reason for this limitation is because games previous to 11C have some or all of the sound section circuitry on the MPU board populated, the 11C does not.  Likewise, DE boards do not have any sound section circuitry located on them by design.  The board swap is not a simple drop in replacement though.  Some minor modifications have to be performed for the DE board to function properly in an 11C game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first hurdle is to properly power the DE board.  Connection 1J17 is where power originates on the 11C board.  The complimentary connection on a DE board is CN17.  The problem is that these connections are keyed differently between the two boards.  1J17 has a key at pin 7, while the key on CN17 is at pin 8.  The safest way to make a connection to CN17 with the 11C game harness is to remove pin 7 on the DE board.  This will have no ill effect, if the DE board is to be placed back into a DE game.  The worst case scenario if pin 7 is removed and the board placed back into a DE game is that the CN17 connector housing could be installed off by one pin, thus shorting the +5v to ground, and blowing the logic voltage fuse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Jumpers for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Correct jumper setting on DE MPU for 11C game ROMs]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Special Solenoid Wire Swap for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Addition harness and Z-connector installed to correct special solenoid drive outputs]]&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the game ROM jumpers have to be set correctly.  Since all 11C games use dual ROMs, jumper setting J4 must be in on the DE MPU, while J5 is out.  Install the 11C game ROMS in the following positions.  U27 (ROM 1) is to be inserted into the 5C socket, while U26 (ROM 2) is installed into the 5B socket.  Notch on the chip / socket is facing to the right.  There is an alternative method.  The code for the dual ROMs can be burned into a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Burning_Dual_ROMs_into_a_Single_5C_ROM single 27512 EPROM.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, there is a problem with how DE boards poll the special solenoid drivers differently than 11C boards.  Two of the drivers are correct (solenoids 17 and 21), while the four others are mismatched.  To overcome this problem, either a harness can be created (DE board to 11C harness) with a Z-connector installed between 1J19 and the game harness, or the 7-pin housing (the 9-pin housing at 1J19 is split with a 2-pin housing and a 7-pin housing) at 1J19 can be repinned.  The benefit of building a harness and adding a Z-connector is that it is easily reversible, if an 11C board is to be placed back into the game at a future time.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following wires will have to be connected to 1J19 / CN19 on the DE board for the game to function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Stock Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Swapped Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || ORG-VIO || ORG-VIO  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || ORG-GRY || ORG-GRY  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || BLU-ORG || BLU-YEL  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || BLU-RED || BLU-ORG  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || Key || None  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || BLU-YEL || BLU-BLK  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || BLU-BRN || BLU-BRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || BLU-GRN || BLU-GRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || BLU-BLK || BLU-RED  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane at Game Start (Pinbot) ===&lt;br /&gt;
Trough and shooter lane switches test alright in switch test.  Ball feeder coil from trough to shooter lane tests fine in solenoid test.  If the motor for the visor is disconnected, and the visor does not cycle at the start of the game, the ball will not kick to the shooter lane.  This may be an issue if one or both of the visor switches are not recognized too.  Not certain what code revision this particular game was running.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane and Drop Target Will Not Reset (Cyclone) ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone UnderPF Fuse 1A 5A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Fuse under the playfield of a Cyclone, which powers solenoids 1A and 5A]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Both the outhole solenoid (1a) and drop target reset solenoid (5a) are the only multiplexed 24v coils in Cyclone.  The power wires for these coils are brown.  For some reason, Williams decided it would be a good idea to put a fuse under the playfield for these coils &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(which is not included in the documentation)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.  The fuse/fuseholder is located just to the right of the spook house subway.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids Are Not Pulsed During Solenoid Test on System 9 Games===&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the enabling switch associated with the special solenoid device.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU energizes a coil 5 times===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Police Force&#039;&#039;&#039; - After the pinball is switched on the ramp diverter coil engages 5 times. After the game start the diverter coil engages 5 times again. Diverter mechanism doesn&#039;t hold in position. So after the coil is energized the mechanism falls back and so the switch is closed again. Then the software tries another 4 times to resolve the problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; Clean the diverter mechanism and in particular the plastic. Lubricate the plastic lanes!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Elvira and the Party Monsters drop target reset coil blows the lamp matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
The drop target reset coil should be mounted with the solder tabs down. If mounted with the solder tabs up, (toward the playfield) the solder tabs can contact the J-A-M lamp sockets. This blows the lamp matrix ICs on the MPU board by sending coil voltage through the lamp matrix.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=24923</id>
		<title>Williams System 9 - 11</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=24923"/>
		<updated>2025-02-01T20:56:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms sys9 boardset.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 Board Set from Space Shuttle]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingBackbox.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 (nothing) Board Set from High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Boardset.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 11A Board Set from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Jokerz Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11b Board Set from Jokerz! (Note that power supply is a prototype)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sy11B Boardset.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11b Board Set from Transporter the Rescue]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11C_Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|System 11c Board Set from Rollergames]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams system 7 boardset was replaced in 1984 with the system 9 boardset, and then again in 1985 with the system 11 boardset.  Combining the driver board, sound board, and cpu directly onto one board eliminated several design deficiencies of the earlier 3-7 boardsets; mainly the 40 pin interconnector, and extra wiring harness inter-board connectors.  Larger ROMs could be fitted directly onto the boards allowing for more complex rulesets and sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 and System 11 board sets are not 100% compatible. With a fair amount of effort, a System 11 board could be made compatible with a System 9, but it is not worth the extended effort to change the jumpers. It&#039;s far easier to just modify the rom images so that they are plug and play when installed in a System 11 CPU. You can find them already on the ipdb. The primary differences between the System 9 and System 11 board sets are the sound system and rom space.&lt;br /&gt;
(add more info later)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As time went on, the System 11 board set underwent some changes too.  The power supply, sound board, and CPU / driver board have minor changes.  More apparent was the addition of circuit boards.  Starting with the 11a board set, a more complex sound board was added (System 11 sound boards are strictly background sounds only).  Later in the System 11 series, sound functions were partially (11B) or fully removed (11C) from the MPU, and eventually were solely handled by a dedicated sound board. Game-specific interconnect boards and auxiliary power driver boards were introduced in System 11B games.  The interconnect boards acted as a pass-through for switch, lamp, flasher, and solenoid signal lines and circuits. It also allowed circuits with different voltages to share the same power source by using current limiting resistors to drop voltages to the appropriate levels.  All general illumination fuses were moved to this board.  The auxiliary power driver board has the AC relay, which finally centralized the location of it.  Likewise, several fuses, beefier TIP36C transistors, and bridge rectifiers are centralized on the auxiliary power driver board.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|Strike Zone|| 1984 || 1916  || unknown || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light|| 06-1984 || 530 || no speech || || 5610-09563-00 || only a few were made with System 9 boards inside&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Space Shuttle|| 12-1984 || 535 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sorcerer|| 03-1985 || 532 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet|| 06-1985 || 540 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alley Cats|| 10-1985 || 1918 || Unknown ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[High Speed]]|| 01-1986 || 541 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grand Lizard|| 04-1986 || 523 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Road Kings|| 07-1986 || 542 || D-11197-542 (Background music only)  || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinbot|| 10-1986 || 549 || D-11297-549 (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tic Tac Strike|| 11-1986 || 1919 || Unknown ||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Millionaire|| 01-1987 || 555 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11298-555.JPG | D-11298-555]] (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|F-14 Tomcat|| 03-1987 || 554 || D-11298-554 (Used on 1st 5,000 games - Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound) / D-11581-554 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire!|| 08-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire! Champagne Edition|| 09-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
!Aux Power Driver&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big Guns|| 10-1987 || 557 || D-11581-557 || D-8345-557 || D-11583-557 || C-11762 || Uses D-11814 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Space Station]]|| 12-1987 || 552 || D-11581-552 || D-8345-557  || D-11813-552 || C-11762-552 || Uses D-11814-552 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Mine|| 01-1988 || 1920 || None || D-8345-1914 || None || None ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone|| 02-1988 || 564 ||[[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG | D-11581-564]]  || D-8345-557  ||  D-11813-574 || C-11762-564|| Uses D-11814-564 Flash Lamp Resistor Board  || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run|| 05-1988 || 566 || D-11581-566 || D-8345-566 ||D-12247-566 || D-12112 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Swords of Fury]]|| 06-1988 || 559 || D-11581-559 || D-8345-557 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-559 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Taxi|| 08-1988 || 553 || D-11581-553 || D-12246-553 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-553 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Top Dawg|| 11-1988 || 1921 || None || D-12246 || None || D-12313-1921 || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jokerz!|| 12-1988 || 567 || D-12338-567 || D-12246 ||  D-12247-559|| D-12313-567 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Earthshaker]]|| 02-1989 || 568 || [[Media:System 11 Sound Board.JPG | D-11581-568]] || D-12246-568 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-568|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight 2000]]|| 04-1989 || 563 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-585.JPG | D-11581-585]] || D-12246 || D-12247-563 || D-12313-563|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Transporter the Rescue|| 04-1989 || 2008 || D-11581-2008 || D-12246  || D-12247-2008|| D-12313-2008 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Police Force|| 08-1989 || 573 || D-11581-573 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-573|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Shuffle Inn|| 10-1989 || 1922 || None (assumed) || D-12246 (assumed) || None || D-12313-1922 (assumed)||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Elvira and the Party Monsters|| 10-1989 || 2011 || D-11581-2011 || D-12246 || D-12247-2011|| D-12313-2011 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats|| 11-1989 || 575 || D-11581-575 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-575|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mousin&#039; Around!|| 12-1989 || 2009 || D-11581-2009 || D-12246 ||D-12247-2009 || D-12313-2209 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Whirlwind]]|| 01-1990 || 574 || D-11581-574 || D-12246 || D-12247-574 ||D-12313-574 || Uses a C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board to control 5 extra devices || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11C===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Bally Game Show|| 04-1990 || 2003 || D-11581-2003 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2003 || Uses a C-13286 Sound Overlay Lamp Board || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pool Sharks|| 06-1990 || 2014 || D-11581-2014 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2014 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Rollergames]]|| 06-1990 || 576 || D-11581-576 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-576 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner|| 09-1990 || 571 || D-11581-571 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-571 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Radical!|| 09-1990 || 2015 || D-11581-2015 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2015 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude|| 11-1990 || 2016 || D-11581-2016 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2016 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Riverboat Gambler]]|| 11-1990 || 50007 || D-11581-50007 w/ 512K ROMS (assumed) || D-12313-50007|| || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball|| 01-1991 || 20009 || D-11581-20009 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-20009 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Documentation Errors====&lt;br /&gt;
* Error on the [[High_Speed#MPU_Schematics_Error_for_U21_.26_U22|MPU I/O signals for U21 / U22 of High Speed]].&lt;br /&gt;
* [[#Flipper_Circuit_Schematics_Error|Flipper Circuit Schematics Error]] in the manuals for High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Details for board and cabinet schematics System 9-11 games can be found in the game manual or parts catalogs. Some copies can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball] or on [http://www.ipdb.org/ IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Troubleshooting &amp;amp; Reference Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|69-8955 (April 21, 1986)&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-pinball-troubleshooting-reference-manual_16-8955_sys9.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet, High Speed, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
|System 9 games. Also includes Strike Zone shuffle alley game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|D-11581 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Parts Catalogs===&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Parts catalogs also had supplementary updates to add and replace pages as newer games were released after the initial release of the catalogs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1986-1989)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/rvsk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-blue-book_16-9064-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Black Knight 2000, Comet, Cyclone, Earthshaker!, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Jokerz!, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Police Force, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (1989-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/feme/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-red-book_16-9190-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Dracula, Fish Tales, Funhouse, The Getaway, Hurricane, The Machine, Riverboat Gambler, Rollergames, Slugfest, Terminator 2, Whirlwind, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/itjk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Bally-midway-parts-catalog-yellow-book_16-9147-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Atlantis, Black Rose, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Dr. Who, Elvira, Game Show, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Party Zone, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Supplementary service bulletin books were released, which included service bulletins that detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1989&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-Service-Bulletin-Book-1989-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1989.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone, Bonzai Run, Taxi, Earthshaker, Truck Stop, Transporter&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1990&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1990-service-bulletin-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1990.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner, Police Force, Pool Sharks, Rollergames&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1991-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude, Jokerz, Riverboat Gambler&lt;br /&gt;
|This book includes some WPC games&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 eliminated a huge issue with the earlier system 3 through 7 boardsets, the 40 pin interconnect between the MPU and Driver boards.  All circuitry previously separated into MPU, driver, and sound boards was combined into a single MPU board. Satellite boards were still used for displays, speech, and solenoid expansion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with &#039;&#039;&#039;Big Guns&#039;&#039;&#039;, Williams introduced another weak link into their system, the interconnect board. Initial implementations were used to disperse the general illumination between the playfield and backbox. The connectors on interconnect boards were prone to overheating and failure just like prior implementations. At the same time, flash lamp resistor boards were being used. These were created to collocate all of the flashlamp current limiting resistors, and eliminate under playfield flashlamp resistor boards, which had proven themselves problematic in the high heat, high vibration environment under the playfield. Resistors often desoldered themselves and/or vibrated so much that the connection fractured. Flash lamp resistor boards were only used on three games:  Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone. In addition to the interconnect and the flash lamp resistor board, the auxiliary power driver board made its appearance. The auxiliary power driver board housed all of the high current transistors (TIP36c), solenoid and flasher fuses (including discrete flipper fuses), the AC select relay, and the solenoid power bridge rectifiers. The auxiliary power driver board did go through some minor changes, but it was functionally equivalent through the last System 11C game.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Banzai Run, a more standardized interconnect board was created. This interconnect board merged the general illumination interconnect with the flasher driver board. Switch and lamp circuits passed directly through this board as a matter of manufacturing convenience. Later interconnect boards added 3 opto couplers to indicate when the flippers and AC relay were activated (the same circuitry as used in the flipper power section of the WPC-089 -1 Power/Driver board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest advantages of the system 11 board set is its ability to switch one set of coil driver transistors between 2 sets of coils/flashers. This is accomplished via a relay on a separate board called the A/C select relay (the A/C select relay was eventually moved to the auxiliary power driver board starting with Big Guns). The theory is that coils that are less frequently activated will be on the A side of the relay, and that flashers will be on the C side of the relay.  Most of the time during gameplay, the C side is active, enabling the flashers. If the driver transistor for the A/C select relay itself shorts, the relay defaults to the coil side, allowing the game to continue to operate in a reasonable fashion (usually the A side coils are the ball shooter lane, drop target resets, VUK - basically coils that don&#039;t need to be able to operate 100% of the time unlike a slingshot coil or pop bumper coil).  Data East&#039;s board set was essentially a copy of the system 11 board set, but Data East programmed it the opposite way, so that the flasher side of the A/C select relay is active by default. Data East games, when the A/C relay doesn&#039;t operate, just sits there and flashes lamps instead of playing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and early System 11 games do share a disadvantage with the earlier 3-7 board sets, they still utilize special solenoid circuitry. The pops and slings on system 9/11 games do not activate via a switch which is seen by the MPU&#039;s program which fires the coil. Instead, the switches directly fire their associated coils via logic gates on the main board. The main disadvantage with this system is that the solenoids fire continuously as long as their activation switch is closed. A locked on sling or pop will burn out components quickly. It is recommended to add a 1, 1.5, or 2 amp inline fuse to each coil on a directly fired system 11 game. Usually just the pops and slings are direct fired coils. However, other coils were designated to the special solenoids. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games did not use the direct fire solenoid switches. Switches on the switch matrix were used instead. To easily identify games which do not use direct fire solenoid switches, IJ18 on the MPU board will not have a harness connection attached to it.  Likewise, the slingshots and pop bumpers will no longer have a set of scoring switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One way that System 9 games differ from the previous 3-7 board set is that the special solenoids are not controlled by the CPU at all. In other words, the special solenoids are not pulsed during solenoid test, as the physical board architecture does allow for this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The software in system 9-11 games continued with the same machine architecture from system 6 and 7, except for the special solenoids as mentioned above. More ram became available, up to 2k, but no game used over 800 bytes. This is likely due to the lower cost of 6264 RAM than 6116 RAM as was used in early System 9-11 games more than any other reason. Additional diagnostics in the form of switch error checking appeared in system 11. Any switch not activated over 30 games (16 games for flipper switches) would cause an error to be called out at power on. The software was able to compensate for broken switches by designating another switch to perform the same function as the broken switch.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9MPU.jpg |300px|thumb|left|System 9 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9MPUFactoryMod.jpg |300px|thumb|right|These high frequency filter capacitors were added at the factory, and are normal. Their purpose is the snub high frequency noise in the Advance and Auto Up/Down coin door button circuits.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 9 MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a single version of the System 9 MPU in all System 9 games. A few minor modifications to the board may have been made, but it&#039;s essentially the same board for the entire 3 game run of Space Shuttle, Sorcerer, and Comet. The picture at left shows an early board that featured two inductors (copper wound coils that &amp;quot;smooth&amp;quot; DC power) at L1 and L2, adjacent to connector 1J17. Later revisions of the board used &amp;quot;zero ohm&amp;quot; jumpers instead, presumably to reduce cost.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUFront.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 10 MPU component side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUBack.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Williams System 10 MPU solder side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams released a single game using an MPU board designated &#039;&#039;&#039;System 10&#039;&#039;&#039;. The game &amp;quot;4-in-1&amp;quot; ([https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=4-in-1&amp;amp;sortby=name&amp;amp;search=Search+Database&amp;amp;searchtype=quick IPDB link]) was released in 1985 and is more like Pachinko than pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From the Internet Pinball Database:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;&amp;quot;This game is known in Williams documentation as &amp;quot;4-IN-1&amp;quot; but that name never appears on the game itself. A total of 100 games were produced. Each came with four interchangeable playfield overlays for the themes of Baseball, Poker, Football, and Soccer. The operator could change the overlay and Instruction Card, re-option switches, and have a new game in the same cabinet.&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11&#039;&#039;&#039; games used one of four different revisions of the System 11 MPU. The first version of the System 11 MPU was completely self-contained, able to make game sounds on the board. A simple background sound board was used to add some game sounds. Between the baseline revision of the System 11 MPU and the last revision of the MPU (System 11C) incrementally more of the sound processing and sound circuitry was removed from the board (not stuffed).  None of the System 11 shuffle alley games use a separate sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem11CPU.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early System 11 (nothing) MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingLater.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Later System 11 (nothing) MPU. Note extensive alkaline corrosion abatement, NVRAM install, and use of modern reset generator. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11 (nothing) MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This picture shows the early System 11 MPU. A later revision of this MPU, pictured at right, has an additional jumper W16 located between the 7 segment diagnostic display and the relay, and a 4.7K ohm resistor between the 7447 and the resistor DIP. The early PCB on the left has a trace routing error to the sound ribbon cable connector. If you use it with a later system 11A sound card you will get no sound because the sound card doesn&#039;t get reset properly. If you wonder why your High Speed doesn&#039;t beep when turning it on this one is also the culprit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11ZenerDiodeAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes added to the back of the System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were added to the layout of the PCB in subsequent revisions of the board (11A, etc).]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|right|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) incorporated into the board layout and stuffed at the factory on a later board revision. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows six 6.2V zener diodes added to the solder side of a System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were left off the factory silkscreen of the board. Later revisions of the System 11 MPU added them to the component side of the board. Their purpose is to protect the special solenoid switch inputs. Either a ZPY6,2/ZD6,2/1N4735A (1 watt) or ZF5,2/1N5234B (1/2 watt) can be used. This mod is purely optional. In reality the diode doesn&#039;t help much if you short the switch input with the solenoid voltage. In this case the diode and the 7402 are usually damaged and need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, if the System 11 (nothing) MPU is used in a System 11A game or later, pins 6 and 7 of the adjacent connector (J18) must be tied to the ground plane at the edge of the board. These pins provide the ground for the special solenoids. Without the modification they do not work. Some early System 11A pins might not need the mod. If unsure just check if a cable is connected to pin 6 or 7 in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A-PB.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A rare prototype System 11a MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11aTransitionVersion.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Blanking, 5VDC, and Diagnostic LEDs factory installed in a &amp;quot;transition&amp;quot; vintage System 11a MPU. The prior version 7447 (U48) and resistor DIP (U47) has been replaced with a 7407, discrete resistors and LEDs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11TransitionTag.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A prototype System 11a MPU with original label]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11a &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Prototype&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This MPU was only used in Pin Bot. It&#039;s actually a System 11 (nothing) MPU PCB layout, with the  7 segment LED display replaced at the factory with 3 LEDs as used in all later System 11 MPUs (11A/B/C). The latest trace revision of this board also has the ground mod (connect 1J18, pins 6 and 7 to board ground) allowing it to work in any 11A/B/C game without modification. According to a friend it was referred to by the name of 11a instead of 11A by distributors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A late production System 11A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11A MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11A MPU can be used in all System 11 games. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and possibly the amplifier section must be stuffed. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board. On early production system 11A boards, the amplifier section was fully stuffed, just like the original System 11 board. Later in the production of System 11A boards, the amplifier section was not stuffed, just like an 11B board. But unlike System 11B boards, the System 11A board still has the same switch section layout as the original System 11 MPU, making it easy to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 CPU Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11B MPU. Note that a large portion of the sound circuitry, including the TDA2002 amp, was not stuffed in late System 11A boards or any System 11B MPU boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11B MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11B MPU can be used in all System 11 games too. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and all of the sound amplification components must be added to the board. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11C.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C MPU. Note that none of the sound circuitry, including the 6802 processor and 6821 PIA, is stuffed in System 11C MPU boards. All sounds were generated by the sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11C MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11C MPU can be used only in System 11C games since none of the sound processing circuitry was stuffed.  It can be used in games prior to 11C, if the sound section is populated.  However, some of the components needed are rare and / or costly, and there are a fair amount to install.  If there is no other choice but to use this board, it is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU9211.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU004.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The RottenDog &amp;quot;MPU004&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU with sound section overlay]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;RottenDog MPU9211 and MPU004 Aftermarket MPUs&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU9211 (shown at left) was designed to support all Williams System 9 - 11 games. How well the board works across that great breadth of games is somewhat questionable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CVSD used on this board is a CMX639D4 produced by CML Microcircuits. It replaces the 55516 (or 55536) CVSD used at U3 on original System 9 - 11 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU004 (shown at right) was an earlier design thought to support all Data East and System 11 games. Again, how well the board accomplishes this for Williams games is questionable. A significant source of confusion on this board (like all RottenDog boards with DIP switches) is that the DIP switches are labeled opposite of traditional labeling. That is, set all switches to OFF for Williams games, ON for Data East games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDWilliams9211LaterRev.jpg |300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU, later revision]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A later revision of the RottenDog 9211 MPU included a second trim POT to adjust the balance between 1408 DAC sounds and 55536 CVSD sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Picture of the lamp column portion of the lamp matrix of a System 9 MPU board.  Note that the TIP42 drive transistors were removed from this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The lamp matrix is made up of two parts - the lamp columns (drives) and lamp rows (returns).  In most cases, the lamp row consists of eight 2N5060 over-current shunt SCR&#039;s and eight TIP122 drive transistors, while the lamp column consists of eight 2N6427 predrive transistors (WMS sometimes used MPS-A14 instead) and eight TIP42 or TIP42C transistors.  However, there are some instances, as shown in the pic to the left, where the predrive transistors for the lamp columns are 2N6548s.  It is unknown why Williams chose to use these transistors on occasion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The over-current shunt circuit on the lamp row (returns) works by sensing the voltage drop across the 0.4 ohm, 3 Watt resistor on emitter of the TIP122 driver transistor. If a short circuit is present in the lamp row, the short circuit current will result in a higher than normal voltage drop across the emitter resistor. This voltage will trigger the gate of the 2N5060 SCR, causing it to turn on and shunt the base drive to the TIP122 transistor. This will turn off the driver transistor and prevent damage due to excessive current. Note that an RC circuit consisting of a 0.1uF capacitor and 1K ohm resistor is present on the gate of the SCR. This prevents a false trigger of the over-current shunt circuit due to an initial peak current from cold lamp filaments.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Switch Matrix Explained=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System9SwitchMatrix.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The System 9 Switch Matrix circuitry, as found in the Sorcerer manual.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Description&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At regular intervals, say 1 every msec or so, the 6808 microprocessor scans the switch matrix. This is done by pulling one switch column to ground, then sensing the switch row return state. Each row on which ground is detected means that the switch at the intersection of the column grounded and the detected row ground, is closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Hardware Detail&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 writes the column data to the address location occupied by the 6821 at U15 on the board. This causes the 6821 output registers (PB0 – PB7) to propagate the data to a 74LS244 octal buffer at U45. The 74LS244 mirrors that same data at it&#039;s output pins. The data pattern on these output pins will have all bits set to logic “1” except one bit, which will be set to logic zero, or electrical ground. The ground is applied to the base of a 2N3904 transistor (which had been held high by a 4.7K SIP pull-up resistor SR8) where the ground is applied to the switch column (called switch matrix drives on the schematic).&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Closed switches connected to that column will then cause the normally high (via yet another pull up resistor, SR16) gate at a 74LS08 quad NAND gate (U51 and U52) to be pulled to ground. This NAND gate enables the circuitry to detect a switch closure returned via either connector 1J9 or 1J10.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 then “reads” the row returns by reading from the address space occupied by the same 6821 at U15 used to pulse the column strobes earlier. This time it reads 6821 registers PA0 – PA7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the processor knows which column it drew to ground, and it knows which rows were caused to be pulled to ground via closed switches attached to the column. From this information, the closed switches can be identified. Genius. Bania: “I&#039;m tellin&#039; ya Jerry, this switch matrix stuff is gold Jerry, it&#039;s gold!”.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch diode isolates the switch in the matrix. Without this isolation diode, multiple simultaneous switch closures will cause false returns and confuse the processor. A switch diode that is open will always prevent a switch from registering, in the same way that a broken wire or failed open switch would.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jumper Settings and Locations for System 9 &amp;amp; 11 MPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are charts of the jumpers on System 9 &amp;amp; 11 boards.  Rather than listing the boards by their platform (System 11A/B/C), each chart is listed by the numbers stenciled on the circuit boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10749-00 REV. C (System 9)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W2, W5, W6, W7, W9, &amp;amp; W12.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1 / W2|| Below U12  || Microprocessor Internal RAM Enable. W1 IN, W2 OUT when using 6802, reverse when using 6808 || U12 RAM can be removed with 6802 and W1 installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W3||  ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Left of U49 || Country jumper. Remove for German factory settings, add for US factory settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U5 || Along with W7, used to send +12V to opto rows   || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U5 || Along with W6, used to send +12V to opto rows  || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +12v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W9|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +5v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10|| Below U50  || Installed - sounds from CPU board can be played without speech board attached  || Typically not installed, except Strike Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W11|| Below U37 ||  Used when U19 game ROM 2 is used || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| Below U36 || Used to increase U20 game ROM 1 size from 2764 to 27128 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. - (Typically System 11)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, &amp;amp; W7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U48 || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. B (Typically System 11 - Referred to as Prototype System 11a in text above)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU    || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Blanking signal to input &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; of U48 LED decoder chip  || not present on first pcb revision&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12091-00 REV. - (Typically System 11A)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| Below U23 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12206-00 REV. A (Typically System 11B &amp;amp; 11C)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U25  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U25  || only 2K will be used from the factory&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs ||  Remove for German text, add for English text || This jumper is not used in games with 16 digit score displays. Instead, install the U26 and U27 EPROMs for country and game. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| To the left of U24|| Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W18 || Below U23 || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U23 || only 2K will be used. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W19 || Below U23 || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U23 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Combining the System 9 Sound ROM Images====&lt;br /&gt;
Pinside user, &amp;quot;Dumbass&amp;quot;, has created replacement System 9 MPU boards.  One of the new things that he implemented in the board design is a daughterboard that can be mounted to the main MPU, which handles the speech duties.  Therefore, the speech board with its sometimes problematic ribbon cable no longer has to be used.  However, the sound and speech chip code now has to be combined together on a 27256 PROM, which is used at position U49.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
The file [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732] is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[File:Pad.zip]]. Below is how the code should be concatenated for it to work properly.  It is very similar to what is done for the System 9 code to be modified for a System 11 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Space Shuttle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = 0000h&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sorcerer&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = E67Fh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Comet&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum =  F9CCh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Converting the System 9 ROM Images to work in a System 11 MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to create System 11 compatible ROM images from System 9 ROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The file &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;[https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[file:Pad.zip]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 CPU works out of the box with a 27128 EPROM at location U27. You may choose to double the ROM image, creating a 27256 image so that its size is consistent with the other System 11 U27 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove jumper W8 and install jumper W9 on the System 11 CPU to enable sound to work properly. System 11 controls the sound reset via software. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Space Shuttle=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sorcerer=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u21.128 + cpu_u21.128 cpu_u21.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u22.128 + cpu_u22.128 cpu_u22.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.732 + cpu_u20.764 cpu_u20.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.l2.bin + cpu_u20.l2.bin cpu_u20.l2.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.l2.128 + cpu_u20.l2.128 cpu_u27.l2.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sorcerer is the only System 9 pinball game using 2 ROMs which make things complicated for repair. You can use the cpu_u20.128 image in a system 9 CPU jumpered for Space Shuttle or Comet. If you install W12 and remove W11 the CPU will be jumpered for a 27128 EPROM. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Comet=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 /b    &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech 2532.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board Using 2532 PROMs (from Space Shuttle)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|System 9 Speech Board Using 2732 PROMs (from Comet)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The speech board used in the three System 9 games, Space Shuttle, Sorcerer and Comet is essentially the same as the speech board used in System 6/7 games. However the speech board was enhanced during the Space Shuttle run. Four jumpers were added to accomodate either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs. When burning EPROMs, make certain which style of ROM is used.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Early Later.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board - Left unit is from early Space Shuttle, right is from later Space Shuttle]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Only the early Space Shuttles use 2532 EPROMs from the factory. Later Shuttles, Sorcerer and Comet use 2732 EPROMs.  The later speech board is backward compatible. If using such a board, either 2532s or 2732s can be used for the first two System 9 games (or System 6/7 games), provided that the jumpers are set for the appropriate EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the speech board generating speech sounds, it mixes the sound and speech signals via the potentiometer on the speech board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsSystem11BackgroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Background Sound board as found in High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11197 Road Kings Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11197 Background Sound board as found in Road Kings]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsD-11297BackGroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11297 Sound board as found in Pinbot, fully populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11298 Pinbot Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11298 Sound board as found in Pinbot. This version only has U4 populated (U19 is not).  Uncertain why U19 is needed.  Note that the CVSD &amp;quot;lane&amp;quot; of the board is not stuffed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System_11_Sound_Board.JPG|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound board, not completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D-11581-F14.jpg ‎|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound board, completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated, with W10/W11 Jumpers. W10/W11 enable use of 512K sound ROMs as found in all System 11C games like Game Show, Dr. Dude, Pool Sharks, Rollergames, Diner, Radical, and Bugs Bunny]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-12238 Jokerz Sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:JokerzSoundBoardPinOut.png|700px|thumb|right|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only - Connector PinOut]]&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:D11581SchematicIcon.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Use hyperlink at right to open D-11581 sound board schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581PartsDelta.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Parts missing from partially populated D-11581 sound boards]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Link to:&#039;&#039;&#039; [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|Schematics for the D-11581 sound board]].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The parts shown at right represent the delta from a partially populated D-11581 to a fully populated D-11581. *The value of R13 will vary between 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms) and 10Kohms. If R14 and R15 are 10Kohms, then R13 should be 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms). If R14 and R15 are 20Kohms, then R13 should be 10Kohms.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem11PSPreBigGuns.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Pre-Taxi Power/Regulator Board. This power supply has had the header pins replaced and the 5V filter cap at C10 replaced. Note that this board has the 20A fuse for the GI still installed. This indicates that it is an early System 7 board. The fuse and it&#039;s holder should be replaced by a wire in all System 9 and 11 games]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_B.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply - Revision B (Pinbot)  Note that the top fuse holder just below the large 15000uF capacitor is broken on the left side]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These power supplies use obsolete parts at Q1 (SDS-201) and Q3 (SDS-202). The PCB print was used from Black Knight through Swords of Fury, with slight modifications. Up until and including Fire!, Q1 and Q3 were the obsolete SDS-201 and SDS-202. Starting with some Fire!, the board uses an MJE15030 at Q1 and an MJE15031 at Q3. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-201 at Q1 may be &amp;quot;6557&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9057S&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-202 at Q3 may be &amp;quot;MDS60&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9058S&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlyWMSPowerSupplyTraceRoutingErrorCloseUpAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of the corrected trace routing error on a Fire! power supply board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply (High Speed) Schematics.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There was a trace routing error on the original Fire! power supply pcbs. WMS cut the trace and used a jumper to correct the error. This error was corrected in the PCB layout at the start of &amp;quot;Big Guns&amp;quot; game production.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_E.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS Power Supply - Revision E (Cyclone)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Big Guns and games after, the solenoid and lamp power power sections were no longer stuffed because they were relocated to the Aux Power board. The GI relay is also missing on these boards because discrete GI relay boards were placed under the playfield and/or behind the backbox lamp insert.  By doing this, specific GI strings could be turned on/off versus &amp;quot;all or none&amp;quot; of the general illumination.  This later board has the fuses only for display and 5V power. In a pinch, the unstuffed parts could be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Big Guns, 2 100mA (1/10A) SB fuses are installed just to the left of the power supply in the backbox. These fuses protect the +100V and -100V circuits against shorts. Not all games used 1/10A slo-blo fuses. Some games used 1/8ASB fuses instead. This may have been due to 1/8ASB fuses being more readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics for this power supply also list part numbers MPSD52 and MPSD02. The equivalent part number for an MPSD52 is a 2N5401. The equivalent part number for an MPSD02 is a 2N5551.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Regulator Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSPSSchematic1503015031.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Schematics for Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used from Taxi thru the remainder of the System 11 game production. &lt;br /&gt;
Note that Taxi used an early revision of the board. The placement of some of the resistors and zener diodes in the HV section of that board is different from later boards.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===50V Flipper Power Supply Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Williams50VPowerSupply.jpg|300px|thumb|left|50VDC power supply as used in System 11 (nothing) and 11A games (C-9939).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games all used the 50V power supply board as pictured at left. This simple board takes 48VAC from the transformer secondary and uses a 35A/400V bridge rectifier to produce about 50VDC. The voltage is smoothed somewhat by a 100uf electrolytic capacitor. The transformer secondary is protected from a short in the bridge rectifier by either a 4ASB or a 5ASB fuse. Be sure to consult the manual for your game for the proper fuse value. Never overfuse a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Power Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
At least two different revisions of the Aux Power Board were used in System 11B/11C games, pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Auxiliary Power Board from Space Station (D-11813-552)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 Power.JPG|400px|thumb|center|Auxiliary Power Board from Earthshaker (D-12247-568)]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Interconnect Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Interconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Backbox Interconnect Board from Space Station]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Lamp Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Earthshaker]]&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board was essentially designed for ease of manufacturing and assembly.  When Williams ultimately settled on using the same unit in all games, (give or take some parts here or there), modularity was apparent too.  There was no longer a need to build complex, custom wiring harnesses between the CPU / driver board, backbox insert, and playfield.  The interconnect board remedied this issue.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanzaiRunInterconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Banzai Run]]Although the first four System 11B games, which include Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone use some form of an interconnect board, it wasn&#039;t until Swords of Fury when the interconnect board was used as a standard for the remaining System 11 games.  The interconnect for Banzai Run (shown on the right) is completely different from anything else used by any game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board used in Swords of Fury uses a different part number, D-12185-559, compared to later System 11 games that used part number D-12313-x (x denotes the game&#039;s model number). They are not interchangable. Swords of Fury and Taxi had lane change switches still mounted on the cabinet. With later games lane change switches were removed and two optocouplers at position U2 and U3 (connected to the switch returns) were added to the board. The circuit is essentially the same as was used in early WPC games and enabled elimination of problematic physical lane change switches from the game. Starting with Jokerz, the third coupler at position U1 is used by the game software to check if the A/C relay on the aux power board is working.  U1 transmits information back to the MPU as switch 2 on the switch matrix, provided that the A/C has energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The early versions of the interconnect board were located on the left side of the backbox and positioned vertically.  The more common interconnect boards were located in the backbox positioned horizontally, just below the CPU board.  The later board passes the following circuits:&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp general illumination circuits&lt;br /&gt;
*flipper power and ground&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp columns and rows&lt;br /&gt;
*switch columns and rows &lt;br /&gt;
*flash lamp power&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What differentiates the board from game to game are the resistor values used for the flash lamp power circuits.  In some cases, some of the resistors are left unpopulated and / or a zero ohm jumper is installed.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (C-8363)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 SS Sorc Master Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|C-8363 Early System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This is the same master display that is used on all System 6A and System 7 games and is used on most System 9 games.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (D-10749)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10749.jpg|300px|thumb|left|D-10749 Late System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
This master display board was introduced during the System 9 run and is mostly found in some of the later Comets that were manufactured.  The major difference between this master display board (D-10749) and the previous master display board (C-8363) is the D-10749 board replaced the card-edge connectors used on the C-8363 with pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any System 9 machine that is wired with card-edge connectors to use a C-8363 master display board can be converted to use a D-10749 master display board by re-wiring to use pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the mapping of the connectors &amp;amp; pins from a C-8363 to a D-10749 to aid in this conversion:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!D-10749 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!C-8363 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 16&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-14&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 15&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-16&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 14&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-17&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 13&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-13&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 12&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-12&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 11&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-15&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-7&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-8&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 10&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 9&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 8&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 7&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-11&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 6&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-10&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 5&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 3&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-7&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-8&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 1&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-1&lt;br /&gt;
|D1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-2&lt;br /&gt;
|C1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-3&lt;br /&gt;
|B1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-4&lt;br /&gt;
|A1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-5&lt;br /&gt;
|D2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-6&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-7&lt;br /&gt;
|C2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-8&lt;br /&gt;
|B2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-9&lt;br /&gt;
|A2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-10&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-18&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-11&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-1&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-2&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-3&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-4&lt;br /&gt;
| +100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-5&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C.&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-6&lt;br /&gt;
| +5 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-1&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C. on D-10749&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 (Discrete Displays High Speed to Pin Bot and Banzai Run)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10877.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-10877WithAlternate7180.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|System 11 Master Display Driver Board with UDN7180 &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot;. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Aaron Gross&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right shows &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot; that replace UDN7180 chips, which were beginning to be become expensive and harder to obtain during the production run. The daughter cards use discrete transistors, much the same way as one version of the older System 3-6 Master Display Panel did. U9, U12, U13, and U14, originally UDN7180s, have been replaced on this board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A (Millionaire / Early F-14)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11414-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A Millionaire Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB actually came out of an early F-14 where they were recycled. Millionaire had it fully populated with additional lamp covers. The mounting brackets for the later D-11610 display changed so if you get a replacement for your F-14 first check which one is used in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A/B (F-14 to Swords of Fury)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11610.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A/B 4 7 Digit Segmented Displays Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (Taxi and Police Force)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-2.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B Display Driver Board D-12232-2 for 2 16 digit segmented displays + one external connector for a 7 digit display]]&lt;br /&gt;
Taxi and Police Force uses a D-12232-2 master display with J4 ribbon connector stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Taxi and Police Force. You would need to add U3 (6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connector J4. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (all other WMS 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12232.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B/C Display Driver Board D-12232-1 for 2 16 digit displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11C (Riverboat Gamber)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-3.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C Display Driver Board D-12232-3 for 2 16 digit displays and 2 connectors for 7 digit jackpot displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
Riverboat Gambler uses a D-12232-3 master display with all ribbon connectors stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Riverboat Gambler. You would need to add U3 and U4 (both a 6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connectors J4 and J6. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display. This display can also be used in Police Force and Taxi.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B/C (all Bally 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Bally-L16-Display.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally left side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12502-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally right side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Other Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Overlay Board (C-13287)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlWindSoundOverlayBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams &amp;quot;C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board&amp;quot; as found in WhirlWind.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This relatively simple board was used on Whirlwind only to accommodate 5 additional solenoids (flashers or motors). The board logically sits between the System 11 MPU and the sound board, intercepting data normally sent directly to the sound board, and acting on that data only when specific codes are commanded. The board also relays data not specifically intended for it, on to the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Current Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS C-12493 High Current Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-12493 High Current Driver Board from Earthshaker]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The high current driver board was used on Earthshaker to drive the shaker motor. It was used on several other Bally/Williams WPC games while designated different part numbers.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Space Station Opto Position Board (C-11872)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpaceStationOptoBoardC-11872.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-11872 Space Station Opto Positioner PC Board Assembly]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is unique to Space Station. The &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; at Q1 and Q2 (both 2N3906s) in the picture at left are clear silicone caulk used to dampen vibration on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Remotely Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Flasher Board Pinbot.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Flash Lamp Resistor Board (from Pinbot)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The earlier design of flash lamp resistor board was mounted under the playfield within in the vicinity of the flash lamp circuit(s) that were powered by it.  Each board had a maximum of 4 power resistors (2 per flash lamp circuit).  The higher resistance resistor is 330 ohm 7 watt, while the lower resistance resistor is 5 ohm 10 watt.  The purpose of the larger value resistor is to keep the flash lamp powered with minimal voltage.  This keeps the flash lamp filament &amp;quot;warm&amp;quot;, which puts less of a strain on the flash lamp.  In turn, it is supposed to extend the life of the flash lamp. The smaller value resistor is used as a current limiting resistor which allows the solenoid voltage to be supplied to power the flash lamp.  By powering the flash lamps with solenoid voltage, it eliminates the need for an additional, dedicated secondary transformer winding. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Centrally Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px heights=380px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Flash Lamp Resistor Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Big Guns Resistor Board.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-557(Big Guns)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:CycloneBigGunsFlashlampBoardD-11814-564.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-564 (Cyclone)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS_Space_Station_Resistor_Board_D-11814-552.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-552(Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were used on early System 11B games prior to the use of the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.  The board is located in a very awkward location.  It is screwed to the back of the lower cabinet. Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone all have this board in this location.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistors on the board &amp;quot;eat current&amp;quot; (limit current) since the 13V #89 flash lamps are wired to coil voltage (about 38VDC). When implementing this board, Williams chose to change the wire colors as the circuit passes through the board. Combined with the generally poor Williams System 11 documentation, this makes it tough to track down problems with non-working flash lamps. On the plus side, the wire wound cement resistors on the board do not fail often, probably due to the location of the board (resistor boards located under the playfield have high resistor failure rates due to heat and vibration).  However, they obviously can fail. If there is power at the flash lamp, but grounding the flash lamp transistor does not light the lamp, the associated drive transistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were abandoned after Space Station.  Flash lamp circuits and resistors became integrated into the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====A/C Relay====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early AC Relay.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A/C relay board (early design ie. F-14, Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A/C relay placed on aux power driver board starting with 11B games (later design)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Road Kings, System 11 games make use of what is referred to as an A/C relay.  The purpose of the A/C relay was to drive twice the amount of coils and flashers by using half the amount of drive transistors.  This process is commonly referred to as &amp;quot;multiplexing&amp;quot;.  Typically, if the A/C relay was at rest, the &amp;quot;A side&amp;quot; solenoids would engage.  When the A/C relay was powered, the &amp;quot;C side&amp;quot; flashers would engage. However, there were sometimes solenoids multiplexed with other solenoids.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, High Speed, which does not use an A/C relay, uses 8 discrete drive transistors to drive solenoids / flashers 1-8.  Pinbot, which does use an A/C relay, uses the same 8 discrete transistors to drive solenoids / flashers.  However, a total of 16 solenoids and flashers (A side and C side) are driven.  By employing the use of an A/C relay, the System 11 MPU / driver board could be used for many more years without a &amp;quot;drastic&amp;quot; redesign.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Initially, the A/C relay was located on a small circuit board under the playfield for System 11/11A games.  Likewise, this A/C relay board did not have Molex header connections.  Wires were directly soldered to the circuit board.  Once the Auxiliary Power Driver Board was introduced with the System 11B platform (starting with Big Guns), the A/C relay was moved to this board for all subsequent System 11B/11C games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the example of the A/C relay shown in the pic on the left, the only way to discern that the A/C relay is the highlighted relay board is due to the wire colors soldered to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode Board for Multiplexed Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board. As Found.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diode board as found mounted to the bottom of the playfield (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Diode board from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diodes from diode board moved to aux power driver board starting with 11B games]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Motor Control Board (D-12045)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12045.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams &amp;quot;D-12045&amp;quot; as found in Cyclone, Jokerz!, Riverboat Gambler and Diner.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in 4 Williams Games&lt;br /&gt;
* Cyclone ... for the random award wheel&lt;br /&gt;
* Jokerz! ... for draw poker (the wheel has various cards pictured on it), &lt;br /&gt;
* Riverboat Gambler ... for the backbox roulette wheel and&lt;br /&gt;
* Diner ... for the clock hands count time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board uses a single U-opto to detect the wheel at the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; position. The MPU implements an &amp;quot;open loop control system&amp;quot; stepping the motor to the desired position while assuming that each step was successful. The game flags an issue with the PCB/motor assembly when the software thinks that the wheel should be at the home position but the opto beam hasn&#039;t been broken by the opto interrupter on the back of the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Coils===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Flippers.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Serial wound flipper coils as seen on earlier (pre F-14 Tomcat) System 11 / 11A games (pic from Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Placeholder for Parallel wound flipper coils as seen on later (post F-14 Tomcat) System 11A/B/C games (pic from xxxx)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Parallel_Wound_Flippers.jpg|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for parallel wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later games (starting with F-14 Tomcat) used parallel wound coils, which have 2 diodes on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games use different parallel wound flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application.  Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |System 11 Flipper Coils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Color&lt;br /&gt;
!Strength&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11753 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weakest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11722 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weaker ||24-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11630 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Standard ||23-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11629 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Strongest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CoinDoorButtons.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Example System 11 Coin Door Buttons. The Advance button is missing it&#039;s black cap, and yes...that is a bit of soft drink spooge on the bracket.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The coin door buttons for system 9 and 11 games are shown at right. The function of the three buttons is (from left to right in the picture)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset High Score to Date&lt;br /&gt;
*Auto Up/Manual Down&lt;br /&gt;
*Advance&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Function of the Reset High Score to Date is self explanatory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Auto Up/Manual Down (AUMD) button is interpreted by the game software in multiple ways. Starting from attract mode, if the AUMD switch is up, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter audits and adjustments mode. If the AUMD switch is down, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter diagnostic mode. With the AUMD button in the up position during many of the diagnostic tests, the next step in the test will be automatically entered. For example, display test will display each digit on the display in turn. Coil test will advance through each coil. A particular step of the test may be paused on by pressing the AUMD button down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Advance switch moves the diagnostic, audit, or adjustment to the next step (or previous step if the AUMD button is down, except in diagnostic mode).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When in adjustments mode, the credit button is used to zero, turn off, or turn on features.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; One of the adjustment settings (adjustment 69 on High Speed for example) can be used to clear all of the game audits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of all diagnostic tests, the game will enter audits next, and then adjustments.  To exit diagnostics, audits, and / or adjustments, either advance until the last adjustment, or simply turn the machine off.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Transformer Power Selection Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 11 Power Selection Jumpers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys11 Transformer Power Selection.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Typical power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 115VAC (from Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11European220VSelection.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;European power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 220VAC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;1 - Black, 4 - White, 3/6 - Orange.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;Image courtesy of Chuck Sanderson&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Sporadic Problems in General - System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Headers.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Cracked Header Joints and Headers cut too deeply by factory on System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the previous Williams platforms, the System 9 platform is prone to cracked solder joints on the header pins.  Likewise, Williams&#039; board manufacturers had some tendencies to cut the header pins too short on the solder side.  By cutting the pins too short, the cuts partially go through the solder meniscus.  Cutting through the solder meniscus makes a solder joint less reliable, and it may prematurely fail over time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By having cracked solder joints and / or cut solder meniscus, sporadic issues may occur.  To resolve a cracked solder joint issue, the best approach is to completely remove the old solder, and add new solder to the joint.  Due to dirt and contaminants, simply adding solder to the existing joint is not sufficient.  If the header pins are cut too short, an attempt to remove the solder and new solder can be made.  However, in some instances the only resolution is to replace the header pin connector.  It is recommended to use a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-79.asp high quality replacement header].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Rectifier Fuses====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Fuses_Added_Before_Lamp_Solenoid_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AdditionalFuses.jpg|right|thumb|400px|The updated schematic (from High Speed) showing placement of additional transformer secondary fusing for solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A design flaw carried over from the earlier systems was the lack of fuses between the transformer secondary and the bridge rectifiers used for solenoid and controlled lamp power.  In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game should blow. But that is not always the case. If the primary power fuse fails to blow, the wiring between the transformer secondary and the bridge becomes the fuse. The resulting melted wiring is not pretty!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For games before Big Guns, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp fuse installed (Williams opted to use an 8A normal blo, while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses). For games after Big Guns, an 8A normal blo fuse is already present between the transformer secondary and the controlled lamp bridge. As for the solenoid bridge, the addition of the auxiliary power driver board added fusing to protect this circuit. The 25V and 50V solenoid bridges were added to this board. Both bridges are fused with 4A slo-blo fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem in the Inkochnito Bridge Board.&lt;br /&gt;
Surf on over to http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate to the 12 position wafer connection====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-WMS-System11PSCN1Alternative.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The severely burned wafer connector at Data East equivalent of J1 here has been replaced with parts currently available. Pins 5 and 8 are not populated as those connections are not used.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 position &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector (CN1 or J1 for Williams games), can be replaced with currently available parts, shown at left. The original &amp;quot;wafers&amp;quot; are difficult to find and pricey.&lt;br /&gt;
Part number for the alternate connector is Molex 03-09-2121 or 03-09-2122. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply Missing 5v Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
If an aftermarket Rottendog WDP011C power supply is missing 5v, and other common causes of a missing voltage have been ruled out, then it&#039;s likely that the 5v regulator at U191 has failed. An available replacement is the Texas Instruments PTR08060 5v regulator from [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/PTR08060WVD Mouser] or [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/PTR08060WVD/1698955 Digikey].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply - Big Guns &amp;amp; Cyclone GI Comes On, Game Doesn&#039;t Boot====&lt;br /&gt;
If using the now obsolete Rottendog WDP011A power supply for Williams Cyclone or Big Guns, the +12v jumper may have to be moved from the bottom jumper location to the top. If a Rottendog equipped Big Guns or Cyclone turns on the GI lights, but the game doesn&#039;t boot, (only the 5v light on the CPU is lit), this is most likely the reason.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 MPU Jumpers===&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, jumpers on the MPU board do not require modification. The default configuration works for all System 11 game ROMs. However, there are 5 exceptions as follows...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W7 - Language Select Jumper&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
W7 is used only in games up to Cyclone. Games with 16 digit alphanumeric displays do not use this jumper. If installed, the game automatically reverts to English after losing the content of the RAM. If a different language is preferred, the &amp;quot;adjustments&amp;quot; menu provides an option to change the default language. Only a few early System 11 game ROMs contained multiple languages. For these games, if W7 is removed, the game generally defaults to German text. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games used language specific ROMs at U26 and U27.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W16 and W17 - Hitachi CPU select&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Hitachi6802.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A Hitachi processor, installed at U15, with W16 cut (lower right of pic)]]&lt;br /&gt;
The W16 jumper, on original System 11 boards, is in a different location and used for backwards compatibility with system 9 boards. There is no need to change it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 11A and later boards:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*W16 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U15, the CPU responsible for most game operation.&lt;br /&gt;
*W17 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U24, the CPU for the sound subsystem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These two jumpers are used to indicate the manufacturer of the 6802/6808 microprocessor since the clock circuit of Hitachi microprocessors is different from the clock circuit of other manufacturers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If U15 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W16. &lt;br /&gt;
If U24 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W17.&lt;br /&gt;
Otherwise, W16 and W17 should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Hitachi microprocessor can be used in System 9 and System 11 (nothing) MPU boards by simply lifting pin 38 out of the socket. Cutting the pin is not recommended since there may be need for that IC in another board. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W5/W6 and W18/W19 - RAM Type Select ONLY FOR SYSTEM 11B AND 11C&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C MPU boards provide the ability to use either a 6116 or a 6264 RAM at locations U25 and U23 (sound subsystem).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U25&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W5, remove W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W5, install W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U23 (sound subsystem)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W19, remove W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W19, install W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Removing both W5 and W6 from a System ll (nothing) MPU or from a System 11A MPU prevents the switch matrix circuitry from working correctly. One instance of this being done resulted in all switches reporting closure, counting backwards from 64 to 1 while in switch level test. Reference [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-switch-levels-all-active &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;this&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;] PinSide thread.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
====Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSClockandE.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|A scope trace of the 4Mhz crystal input at pin 39 of the microprocessor (blue), and &amp;quot;E&amp;quot;, the external clock at pin 37 of the microprocessor (amber)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Following is an ordered, disciplined process for reanimating a dead MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Inspect for Alkaline Corrosion. Abate all corrosion properly before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test for valid 5/12/-12VDC power to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify correct jumpers are installed (or not installed) for Hitachi 6802/8 processors. More info [[Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11_MPU_Jumpers|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
#Note and address any error messages displayed upon boot (if any).&lt;br /&gt;
#Validate the ROM images.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test socketed chips in a known working board or chip tester.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (4Mhz) clock signal to the 6802/8 processor at pin 39.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (1Mhz) external clock signal at pin 37 of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the reset circuitry is providing a valid &amp;quot;low and then high&amp;quot; reset signal at pin 40 of the 6802/8. Note that replacing the original reset circuitry with a modern reset generator will lengthen the time until the signal transitions to high. This is normal, and helps with debugging as the signal can be seen much easier.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to test for activity on the IRQ (pin 4), Address and Data pins of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to ensure that the following bus buffer chips are correctly mirroring the input signals to the output signals:&lt;br /&gt;
##System 9: U1, U2 and U3 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U23 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
##System 11: U11 and U13 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U16 (data)&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Leon&#039;s test ROM to ensure that each 6821 PIA is receiving the correct chip select and data to produce valid outputs at pins 2 through 17. More information regarding use of Leon&#039;s test ROM can be found [[Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Normal Game Boot Behavior====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Boot Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for System 9 is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the diagnostic display on the MPU. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will light during boot up, and continue to stay lit, as long as the game is on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Diagnostic7Segment.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 11(nothing) MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with a 7-segment display on the MPU is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the display. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; does not go away. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will continue to be displayed under normal boot conditions.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DiagnosticLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs as found on a System 11A, 11B, and 11C MPUs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with 3 LEDs instead of the 7-segment display on the MPU is for the &amp;quot;+5 VDC&amp;quot; LED to light first and stay on, then a split second later, the blanking LED will light and stay on. At the same time that the blanking LED lights, the diagnostic LED will begin to blink at a fairly rapid pace with a 50% duty cycle (equal durations of the LED being on then off). The blanking LED will continue to remain on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LEDDiagnosticsIn7SegmentGame.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs driven by game software expecting a 7-segment display as in High Speed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 11 MPU with 3 LEDs is installed in a game whose original board contained the 7-segment LED diagnostic display first introduced with the System 7 board set, the status of the 3 LEDs won&#039;t help much. The game software is attempting to display a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; (assuming your game boots correctly) on a 7-segment display. Since the board contains just the three LEDs, the MPU circuitry merely lights all three LEDs as shown in the picture at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====MPU Boot Error Codes====&lt;br /&gt;
MPUs used in System 9 and 11(nothing) games display a code on a 7-segment display if an error is detected during boot. MPUs used in System 11A, 11B, and 11C games use the Diagnostic LED to blink a &amp;quot;codes&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 9 MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U18 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6808 processor&#039;s ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Game ROM 2 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal stuck, coin door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or the U18 CMOS RAM faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;System failure. Occasionally, the following components can contribute to this problem: U21 (4MhZ crystal), components in the IRQ circuit, broken leads or failed C9 (22uF) in the reset section, or loosely seated ICs on the CPU board. Note that boot code &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; is the hardware default and characteristic of the CPU &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; signal not complying with the proper low-to-high spec at pin 40.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game is locked up, there may be a bad power supply.  The 5 volt logic supply is the first one to check.  Then, check the 12 volt supply, which is used to reset the CPU chip.  Test for both DC (correct voltages) and AC (too much ripple on the DC circuit).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11(nothing) Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 11(nothing) MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;These error codes assume that either High Speed, Grand Lizard, or Road Kings ROMs are installed since those were the only three games shipped with this version of the MPU board containing the 7-segment display. Later System 11 MPU boards replace the 7-segment display with 3 discrete LEDs that indicate 5V presence, diagnostics execution, and blanking status. While the System 11(nothing) MPU board works fine with other/later game ROMs, the 7-segment display with later game ROMs doesn&#039;t provide useful information other than some confidence that the software is running correctly. With later game ROMs installed and the MPU booting properly, the 7-segment display will appear to alternate rapidly between &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; (as fast as the &amp;quot;Diagnostics&amp;quot; LED would be flashing in a System 11A through 11C MPU board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U25 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6802 processors ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;, or the coin door is closed, or the memory protect circuit is faulty, or the CMOS RAM at U25 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;General system failure. Check the 5VDC power supply as well as the integrity of game ROM 2 at U26.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A zero displayed during Memory Chip Test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is NOT functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11A, 11B, 11C games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the number of blinks of the DIAGNOSTIC LED, the error message that might be displayed, and the explanation (Source: Williams System 11A game manual. with embellishment).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating an MPU indicating a U10 failure (8 blinks) can be found [https://youtu.be/Rhho5nO3YLU &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Message&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;no message || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U25 RAM FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;The RAM at U25 could not be used properly. This means that the RAM failed a read/write test at power up.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;The game will remain in the current state and no other tests are performed until the game is turned off, then back on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;MEM. PROT. FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;This message means that either:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;a) the Coin Door may be shut,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;b) the Memory Protect Switch may be stuck in the ON position,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;c) the memory protect logic is protecting the memory, or&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;d) a U25 RAM failure is occurring.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U51 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U51 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U38 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U38 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U41 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U41 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U42 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U42 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U54 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U54 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U10 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U10 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;IRQ FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The interrupt request line is not working normally. It may be missing, stuck, too fast, or too slow.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 failed checksum (test 11 is skipped).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 failed checksum.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of the above failures (except #9) may mean that the device has failed but it may also mean that the 6802 microprocessor is unable to communicate adequately or properly with the device. For example, if the CPU is attempting to checksum the game ROM at U27, but one of the 8 data lines leading to U27 has been severed, the wrong data will be received by the microprocessor and the checksum test will fail even though the ROM is perfectly fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An U25 RAM failure can occur without actual 6116 RAM failure.  One of the most common reasons why U25 RAM failure occurs is lack of power to the RAM chip.  If the D1, 1N5817, diode shorts open, logic power will no longer have a pathway to the U25 RAM.  However, if the D2, 1N4148, blocking diode is fine, and the battery holder and batteries are fine, power will be retained by the U25 RAM.  Although, the batteries will die prematurely if D1 has shorted.  Another reason why U25 is no longer powered by the +5VDC logic power is due to a severed trace either caused by a blunt object or battery corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An interesting side effect to the U25 RAM failure blink code is that the blanking LED will blink 10 times after the single blink from the diagnostic LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== U51, U27, and possibly other boot message causes =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SocketWornOut.jpg|300px|thumb|left|This OEM System 11 MPU socket is tired, worn out, and no longer provided solid contact with the ROM chip legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 MPUs booting with error codes, blinks, or messages on the display may need new sockets for the game ROM(s). In the picture at left, it&#039;s easy to see light right through the socket holes (note the brown background vs the white background). The metal female connections have fatigued over time and are no longer providing a solid mechanical connection to the ROM chip legs. Removal and replacement with a quality dual wipe or machine pin socket is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This situation can cause a wide variety of boot problems including complete failure to boot, &amp;quot;U27 ROM failure&amp;quot; message, &amp;quot;U51 failure&amp;quot; message, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, the root cause could be due to many other reasons. The fairly complicated chip select logic outlined on sheet 4 of the System 11 MPU schematics could be the cause. The best way to attack the problem is with a logic probe, ensuring that the various chip select gates are yielding the intended logic states.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Five &amp;quot;Knocks&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes when turning a system 11 game on, the knocker will fire 5 times, causing most folks to wonder, &amp;quot;what the hey&amp;quot;?. All that knocking is designed to call the operators attention to a potential switch issue. Like the &amp;quot;credit dot&amp;quot; in later Williams games, including System 11 games that support the dot character, these 5 knocks mean that the game hasn&#039;t detected the closure of a particular switch (or switches) in a certain number of games. A message will be displayed indicating which switch or switches to examine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Usually, this is an indication of a failed switch. Most switches get closed during the normal course of game play, long before the game&#039;s software counts up to the limit of &amp;quot;games played without closing each switch&amp;quot; and issues this indication. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this issue, use the coin door diagnostic panel buttons to enter switch edge test. Manually close the switch. If a switch closure is indicated, either normal game play failed to close the switch (you&#039;re not a very good player), or the switch is dirty. Closing a switch with your finger is different than closing a switch with a ball. Your finger generally pushes more firmly on the switch contacts. Clean the switch by dragging an old business card or piece of paper between the switch contacts while pinching the switch blades together with your fingers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Caution: do not attempt to adjust switches with anything metal while the game is turned on. You will eventually short coil or lamp power to the switch matrix, damaging the MPUs switch matrix circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If closing the switch manually doesn&#039;t register in switch edge test, see the &amp;quot;switch problems&amp;quot; section of this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AdjustFailureMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door closed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message seen in the picture at left occurs when the game software can&#039;t make sense of the information contained in the battery backed RAM at U25. This could be because the RAM has failed, but this is unlikely. The vastly more common reason is that battery backup power has been interrupted to the games battery backed RAM because either the batteries are not installed, dead, or dying. Hopefully, they haven&#039;t made a mess of the board by leaking alkaline. See below. &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; is displayed under these conditions when the coin door is closed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that on some games (not certain if all) which use two 16-digit alpha-numeric displays, the message displayed will actually read &amp;quot;AJSTMENT FAILURE&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FactorySettingMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door open.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the coin door is open under these conditions, the message &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; is displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Testing for Battery Backup Power at the RAM (U25)=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U25_Ram_Test.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Game off. Meter set to DC volts. Black lead on game ground. Red lead on RAM pin 24.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing for power at the RAM chip is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Set DMM to DC volts (or on less than 20V if not using an auto-ranging meter)&lt;br /&gt;
#Game off&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead on backbox ground&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on pin 24 of the RAM as shown at right&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three AA batteries normally provide 4.5VDC. If you are reading some voltage, but not quite 4.5VDC, the batteries need to be replaced...and don&#039;t forget to move them off of the MPU board while you are at it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other causes for low or no battery backup power to the RAM chip are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode D2. This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC source from &amp;quot;charging&amp;quot; the alkaline batteries. D2 is a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode D1. This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC battery backup power from powering parts of the board other than the RAM chip. In this case, the batteries will deplete rapidly. D1 is a 1N5817.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 9 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U41, U9, the game ROMs, and one or more 6821s.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 11 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U11, U31, U34, U35, U36, U44, the game ROMs, and possibly the 6821s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating the repair of a System 9 MPU that was damaged in this way can be found [https://youtu.be/uoYKRJFnm-I &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:PinSideLogo.png]] An excellent disciplined approach to repairing a System 11 MPU damaged in this way can be found on PinSide [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-fried-my-system-11-cpu-board-now-what#post-7564730 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 9 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Yikes! What a pity...]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3 AA batteries used to retain settings across power cycles to a location far away from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; in the credit/match display is seen when the game is turned on, the game is in audit mode versus attract mode.  Below are several reasons why the game has defaulted to audit mode.&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing.&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the U18 (5517-2) RAM. Check pin 24 of U18 for approximately 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v with the power off.  Lack of battery backup power could also be due to an open D3 (1N4148) blocking diode.  This diode is used to keep the CPU&#039;s logic power from charging the batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking diode D2 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There are other problems, such as a faulty 5517-2 RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries will not allow a game to boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on.  It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores.  However, a System 9 game will boot, and is still playable with the lack of batteries.  To complete the boot sequence into attract mode, open the coin door, switch the game off, and then quickly back on. The game should leave audit mode, and go into attract mode.  Credits would need to be added from the coin door, and if necessary, settings would need to be changed before starting a game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea.  You can easily remove the battery pack from the board.  Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement.  If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position.  Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead.  This will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D3 on the MPU board fails.  Keep in mind that adding a secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory by .5 to .7 volts (the typical voltage drop across a diode) if D3 is still good.  Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 remote bat.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 9 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board.  All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; are somewhat common.  Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save you some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 D2 D3.JPG|300px|thumb|left|D2 and D3 Diodes Highlighted on a Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D3 blocking diode.  An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective.  Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack.  This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on.  Alkaline batteries do not like being charged.  They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly).  In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged.  Testing the D3 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out.  When in doubt, replace the D3 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack.  Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5517-2 RAM memory, if D3 is still good.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 11 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RemoteBatteryHolderSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A remote battery holder installed on a System 11 MPU. The purple wire is positive.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Installing NVRAM instead of batteries ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM DIP.JPG|300px|thumb|left|RAMTRON DIP NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Cyclone)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM SMT Adapter.JPG|300px|thumb|right|SMT adapted NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Transporter The Rescue)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like most other pinball mpu boards, the battery-backed RAM can be replaced with a non-volatile memory RAM (NVRAM).  Replacement RAM that can replace existing 6116 or a 6264 SRAM will be needed.  DIP versions are becoming scarce, but there are other solutions available that use surface mount equivalents on a small circuit board that plug into the RAM&#039;s socket.  Unfortunately, U25 is soldered in on System 11 boards from the factory, and would need to be removed to replace with NVRAM.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If installing any version of 6264 NVRAM on an 11B or 11C board, jumper W5 (located just above U25) needs to be moved to jumper W6.  This jumper has a completely different purpose on 11 and 11A boards.  6116 NVRAM will have to be used with 11 and 11A boards, or else modification with wire wrap will be necessary.  If 6116 NVRAM is used on 11B or 11C boards, jumper W5 does not have to be chaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several vendors who sell surface mount NVRAM on an adapter board.  The adapter in the picture shown on the right was purchased from [http://www.pinitech.com/products/cat_memory.php Pinitech].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
It has been documented that some variants of DIP NVRAM may need to have diode D1 replaced with a jumper or jumped around the diode, in order for the game to boot successfully.  D1, a 1n5817 diode, has a very low forward voltage drop (about 0.2 volts) vs. the normal 0.4-0.6 volts most other diodes have.  If replacing U25 with the memory RAM, some memory RAM will not unlock and allow writes until the voltage is 4.8 volts or so.  The 1n5817 D1 diode is just enough to prevent some memory RAMs from allowing writes.  To solve this, solder a jumper wire around the D1 terminals, or remove D1 entirely and replace with a jumper.  Surface mounted NVRAM on an adapter board is not susceptible to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing a Memory Capacitor Instead of Batteries====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11B Mem Cap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Memory Capacitor Added to a System 11B MPU Board.  The circled areas show an added jumper for the cap&#039;s negative terminal to ground and a jumper added in place of the blocking diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SuperCapInstalled.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method of adding a SuperCap. This style cap has two leads on the bottom of the cap. The negative lead of the cap is connected to battery ground via the red jumper wire. The necessary jumper across D2 is circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor. In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is greatly reduced compared to a rechargeable battery. When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor. When the game is turned off (this is where the memory cap slightly differs than a rechargeable battery) the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time. Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again. If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a memory cap, two things will have to be done. It will be necessary to add a jumper to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground or positive lead to the non-banded side of the blocking diode. The picture to the left shows a jumper added to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 11B MPU board. Installation on System 11, 11A, and 11C boards is similarly performed.  Secondly, the 1N4148 blocking diode (D2) will have to be removed, and replaced by current limiting resistor.  A value from 100 ohms to 270 ohms will work.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, it is a good idea to leave the game on for 15-20 minutes to allow the game to initially charge the capacitor to full capacity. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes to allow the cap to recharge is a good idea.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Both photos show a jumper installed in place of the blocking diode.  It is recommended that a limiting resistor be installed instead.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:  It has been determined that memory capacitors are not the most effective way to retain memory on System 11 games, if the game will not be turned on for long lengths of time.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MPUDelicateTraces.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of the delicate traces under the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. Luckily, these cleaned up nicely.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CorrosionCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Closeup of traces under the battery holder. Corrosion (darkened spots) has invaded beneath the solder mask (green coating) and is beginning to eat away at the copper traces.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen at left, the traces on System 11 MPUs are very small. Not much alkaline damage is required to eat completely through these delicate traces. Unfortunately, there are a great many of these traces under the battery holder, and in a very vulnerable position to alkaline damage. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to the left of the battery holder is the reset section of the MPU. That section is, on balance, much easier to repair than the delicate traces under the battery holder and at the 6821 PIAs immediately under the battery holder.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The advice often dispensed to deal with alkaline corrosion is to scrub the affected area with an acid such as vinegar, rinse with water, and then rinse again with isopropyl alcohol. This might work for light surface alkaline corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, often the alkaline will eat into traces beneath the solder mask or beneath chips. This dictates desoldering affected chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces. The alkaline interacts chemically with the solder making it very difficult to heat. Desoldering from the (presumably undamaged) back side of the board is much easier. Scuffing the alkaline damaged solder with a wire brush to remove the surface layer of damage is also helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once all damaged components have been removed, sand the affected area carefully with your choice of fine grit sandpaper. 220 grit works well. The objective is to remove the corrosion completely without destroying additional traces. All corroded areas must be addressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, rebuild traces as necessary. Corrosion tends to sever traces where the trace meets the solder pad of a part. Strong magnification and bright lighting helps. Either tin or conformal coat the bare copper and then reinstall parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11AlkalineDamage-1-Annotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Another closeup of the delicate traces near the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. These traces are too far gone for a repair to be considered reliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingSRCPartsSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A 9 pin, 4.7K bussed resistor network replacing SRC5. Pin 1 is on the right]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AlkalineCorrosion.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of alkaline damage that has crept under the solder mask (the darker traces). Eventually, this corrosion will eat completely through the trace, making the board unreliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TypicalSRC.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The OEM resistor/capacitor network.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the top of the board are a few &amp;quot;SRC&amp;quot; parts. These are 10 pin resistor/capacitor SIPs. The OEM part connects each driver line to a 4.7Kohm pull-up resistor connected to 5VDC. This guarantees that the signal is held at logic high until the PIA grounds the signal. The OEM part also connects each driver line to a high frequency noise filter capacitor (470pf). These parts are no longer available. A completely acceptable substitute is a 9 pin bussed, 8 resistor network (4.7Kohms) at positions SRC1 - SRC5 and SRC7 - SRC9. This part provides the pull-up resistor. In practice, the high frequency filter capacitor does not impact the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The part is installed as shown in the picture at right, with pin 1 of the part connected to the right side which is labeled pin 1 in the board silkscreen. A 10 pin (9 bussed resistors) part may be used ONLY if the left most pin is clipped and not connected to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An image of the original OEM part is shown at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another example of alkaline corrosion can be seen in the picture on the left. This damage can be cleaned up, retinned, and the board placed back in service.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blanking Signal Stuck Low or Pulsing====&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking signal is a failsafe interlock with critical game functions including the display, sounds, lamp matrix, and solenoids. It prevents operation of each of these game features to protect the game circuitry in the event of a system failure. For instance, if the MPU is not running, and the lamp matrix is stuck on at a particular row or column, those parts will heat up quickly, and at the very least damage that circuitry. Coils remaining locked on could cause even larger damage to the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the game functions listed above require the blanking signal to be high (&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not pulsing but always high&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;) to operate. As an example, the solenoid driver circuitry logically &amp;quot;ands&amp;quot; the blanking signal with solenoid commands using a 7408 AND gates (at U17, U18, U19 and U20).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of blanking, with the blanking LED never lighting, means that the game program is not running. It either never started running, locked up due to an invalid ROM image or a problem with the data, address, control, or chip select signals on the MPU, or detected a problem with the RAM memory.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Blanking.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|C58, a timing element for the 555 timer. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In rare cases, C58 can fail. C58 holds the input to the 555 timer high between pulses from the display circuitry. This causes the blanking signal to pulse. A pulsing blanking signal can manifest in missing digits on the display, some lamp columns not being turned on, and possibly other issues. C58 is a 1uf tantalum capacitor. If the blanking signal is pulsing, replace C58.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Blanking.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 CPU Blanking Circuit. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will send data to the display 6821 PIA at U51 (pin 4) at regular intervals (every 2.8 msec).&lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 to pulse high periodically. The DE schematics call this signal &amp;quot;TG&amp;quot;. It is merely called &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; in WMS schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at U36, in at pin 13, out at pin 12.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C57 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q50 and to pin 2 of the 555 timer at 1C.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 555 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at U51, the output of the 555 timer at pin 3 (and 7) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the longer, more detailed explanation, [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb75.pdf Stern service bulletin 75] provides the &amp;quot;Blanking Circuit Theory of Operation&amp;quot; for Data East MPUs which are identical to Williams MPUs with respect to the blanking circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When operating properly, the pins of the 555 timer will behave as follows (pin number, logic signal)&lt;br /&gt;
#low&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing at the same rate as the 6821 PIA at U51, pin 4&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing very rapidly. i.e. &amp;quot;ticking&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair Leon&#039;s System 11 test ROM] runs correctly on an MPU, this guarantees that all data, address, and control signals are working correctly. If blanking doesn&#039;t go high with a game ROM installed, ensure that the ROM images are valid. This is by far the most probable once Leon&#039;s ROM runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (System 9)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetGenerator.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 9 MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9ResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator on a System 9 MPU.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The three electrolytic caps (all 100uf/25V), two inductors, and 5 ceramic caps (all .001uf labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;) are part of the 5, 12, and -12 volt power filtering circuitry. The D2, 1N5817 diode isn&#039;t needed if an NVRAM is used instead of a SuperCap or remote batteries.  However, a jumper must be installed at D2 to power the NVRAM.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset section of the System 9 MPU is almost identical to the System 11 reset section. As such, a modification similar to the mod outlined below can be performed on System 9 boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove resistors R6, R8, and R12. Really, all but R6 can simply be clipped off. One through hole at R6 will be used later.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove transistor Q4&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a reset generator (MCP120-460GI/TO) where Q4 was removed. Orient the reset generator the same way that Q4 was oriented, matching the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper from the upper leg of where R6 was removed (oriented as shown in the picture, upside-down from game installation) to the via that is about 1/4&amp;quot; southeast of the R6 connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it. Most of the rest of the reset circuit can be removed, but this provides no advantage since those parts are already &amp;quot;out of circuit&amp;quot; with this modification.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary to power the sound amplifier on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetMinimum.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Another image of the bare minimum part requirement when using a modern reset generator. The three electrolytic caps are all 100uf/25V. Note that the right most electrolytic cap is oriented backwards from the other two. The 5 ceramic caps are all .001uf and are labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;. These are sometimes called 1000pf ceramic caps.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MCP130 reset generator variant, with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used too, but it isn&#039;t necessary. This is because the resistor at R170 provides an external 4.7K ohm pull up for the /RESET line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the reset generator has a longer reset delay than the OEM circuitry. At boot, the 7 segment LED will seem to show a &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; for a fraction of a second. It will turn to a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and remain &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; after that, assuming that the board is booting properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor1.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumpers&amp;quot; where inductors are normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor2.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; where an inductor is normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some System 9 MPUs shipped from the factory with zero ohm jumpers installed instead of inductors (see images left and right). When repairing alkaline corrosion, it&#039;s completely acceptable to replaced damaged inductors with jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (All versions of System 11)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Section.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 11A MPU board.  Components to be removed are circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Gen.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Reset section with reset generator and jumper installed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on all versions of the System 11 MPU boards. A reset generator can be installed. Since the reset section of all versions of the System 11 MPU board is susceptible to battery damage, this is a very easy, and minimalistic way to rebuild the reset section. To do so, 4 components will need to be removed and a jumper installed. The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Q39 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from top to bottom as installed on the board) R58, R60 (these two are just below the Q39 transistor), and R69.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO (also used on Data East MPUs) where Q39 was. Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q39 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install in the bottom through hole). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the right pad of R58 and the right pad of R60 (both resistors have been removed).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary for the sound section of the MPU on most boards, except the 11B and 11C variants.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired. Please consult the System 11 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics.  The MCP130 variant with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used, but it is not necessary.  This is because resistor network SR19 pin 3 is an external 4.7K ohm resistor used to pull up the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a prime example of where a reset generator is very handy.  The amount of components replaced are reduced from 15-20 to 1.  Note that because this was an 11B board (also true for 11C boards), there is no sound amplifier on the board.  Hence, the +12v is not needed at all, and none of the parts related to the +12v were repopulated.  If this were an 11(nothing) or an 11A board, the +12V inductor (can be replaced by a simple jumper), the W10/W11 jumper, and associated capacitors (C27, C28, and C29) would need to be populated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=330px heights=210px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;A Prime Candidate for Using a Reset Generator (11B MPU Board Shown)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot.JPG|Battery alkali leeched into the reset section.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot WIP.JPG|Components removed, affected traces and pads cleaned and treated.&lt;br /&gt;
File:S11ResetSectionAnnotated.png|Components repopulated. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MinumunResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Another image showing &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;the single jumper (string tied to it) and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator (System 11B/11C). System 11 (nothing) and System 11A must retain a few more parts.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the above gallery pics, note that some components in the reset area had to be reinstalled.  These components are in the area of the reset section, but are not part of the reset circuitry. They are actually related to the game RAM, enabling CMOS power to reach the RAM and to control pin 18, the chip enable pin of the RAM. Without these parts, the MPU will not successfully boot.  Instead, there will be a &#039;&#039;&#039;single blink code&#039;&#039;&#039; from the diagnostic LED indicating a U25 RAM error (a &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; will display on boards with the 7-segment display).  If the game display is connected to the MPU board, a &amp;quot;U25 RAM ERROR&amp;quot; message will be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
*D1 - 1N5817 diode &lt;br /&gt;
*Q40 - 2N3904 transistor (a 2N4401 was used in this case)&lt;br /&gt;
*R64 - 1 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R65 - 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R68 - 4.7 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And, once again, for a System 11 (nothing) or a System 11A MPU, both of which have onboard amplifiers in the upper left corner and require 12VDC power, be sure to retain or replace the following parts:&lt;br /&gt;
*L2 - 4.7uH inductor (or a simple jumper)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C28 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 100uf/25V electrolytic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Connecting a logic probe to the MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Logic Probe connected to System 9 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Logic Probe connected to System 11 (11A) MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, +5v and ground can always be acquired at any one of the bypass capacitors, which are located at most every chip, and simply labeled as &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 comp PSU.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 9 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 comp PSU.JPG|300px|right|thumb|System 11 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 1J17 power connection is essentially the same for System 9 and all variants of the System 11 MPU boards.  The ground connection can be attached to pins 1 through 3.  The +5vdc connection can be connected to pins 4 through 6.  -12vdc gets connected to pin 8 and +12vdc gets connected to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 games are far more tolerant of low line conditions vs. the newer WPC games.  Some things to check if the game is resetting are the usual culprits for this type of thing:  connectors, filter capacitors, slam switches, bad chip sockets, etc.  It is good preventative maintenance to replace the +5 volt filter capacitor on the power supply with a new one; most of these are 25+ years old and might be getting to the point of wearing out.  Certainly replace them if you are getting resetting on your system 11 game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11 games give an indication that they&#039;ve been slam tilted; if you&#039;re getting a &amp;quot;game reset&amp;quot; but you get a noise and/or a message on the displays beforehand, it is probably a slam switch issue vs. a true reset issue.  Check all the slam switches in the game (usually the coin door is the main one, and also the ball roll tilt if present).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
====A/C solenoid/flasher problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AuxDriverBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board, showing the A/C select relay, the clear &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; at the top, center of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is a dual &amp;quot;make/break&amp;quot; (DPDT, double pole, double throw) relay that supplies power to either the &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; or the &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. It is located on the Auxiliary Power/Driver Board for games that use the board which was introduced with Big Guns and used on all subsequent games. For games prior to Big Guns, like F-14 Tomcat, the relay is probably located under the playfield. There are exceptions. High Speed and Grand Lizard do not use an A/C select relay. Road Kings uses one for a handful of solenoids, but this game did not follow the 1-8 solenoid convention which games after it adopted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple ways that the A-Side / C-Side (A/C after this) relay circuit can fail. If the driving transistor (Q8 for Big Guns and later, Q7 for games prior to Big Guns, and located on the MPU board) shorts, the A/C select relay will be constantly energized, resulting in flashers firing when coils should have fired. If the driving transistor never switches the A/C select relay on, coils will fire when flashers should have fired.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing this behavior is easy. Use the diagnostic buttons to select solenoid test, and watch carefully to see what fires. The display will show the coil/flasher under test. The first 8 drive circuits tested will have an &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. That is, circuits will fire in the following order: 1A, 1C, 2A, 2C, ... 8A, 8C. If the A/C select circuit is not working correctly, the same coil or flasher will fire twice in a row, once for the A side and once for the C side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is generally solenoid 12 in coil test. Placing the &amp;quot;Auto Advance&amp;quot; button in the up position, to repeatedly test solenoid 12, should allow you to hear the A/C relay clicking on and off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of &amp;quot;one side&amp;quot; of the A/C select circuit is not working, the fuse supplying the voltage to that side may be blown. F2 (DC side of BR1) and F8 (AC side of BR1) fuse the 25V circuit. F4 (DC side of BR2) and F7 (AC side of BR2) fuse the 50V circuit. Another suspect is fractured solder joints on the A/C select relay. Reflowing these solder joints is simple. The A/C select relay is relatively heavy and it&#039;s weight puts stress on the solder connection at the printed circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-OKOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing normal, working switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is rare for the A/C relay itself to fail. A possible source of trouble are the miniature contacts on the relay wipers. These are high power, high current, contacts that can be filed with a small point file to restore proper current carrying capacity.  Under no circumstances should you ever use contact cleaner on these contacts, as this could cause a spark or fire to occur. Be careful to not mangle the contact wipers in an attempt to adjust them. Adjust with care. 99% of the time, these switch contacts need no maintenance at all.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-WeldedOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a disassembled A/C select relay with both the A Side and the C Side connected at the center contact pads. It&#039;s rare for one of these relays to &amp;quot;weld&amp;quot; itself to both sides. In this particular instance, the game would fire both the A-side coil and the C-side flasher at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Other failure points are the connectors and headers connecting the aux driver board to the main cpu/driver board. Fractured solder joints can affect the proper operation of the relay. It is good practice to replace, or at minimum, reflow the header pins, and to replace connector pins in their housings with new pins. System 11 games use .156 connectors in most locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And finally, the solder joints holding the A/C select relay to the board may fracture and cause loss of connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On a related note, if the flashers never illuminate during game or test, but the A/C relay physically engages, likewise the flasher lamps are good, and power is present at the lamps, suspect potential failure of the U1 (4N25) U1 optocoupler on the interconnect board.  Starting with Jokerz, the U1 optocoupler on the D-12313 interconnect board was used to identify whether or not the A/C relay has engaged.  Under normal operation, if the A/C relay has engaged, the voltage on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; side passes back to the optocoupler.  In turn, there is a switch on the switch matrix, typically switch 2, which receives the signal from the U1 optocoupler.  Note that U1 is on some previous games like Taxi, but it was not used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems with RottenDog MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPUDIPSwitches.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left| RottenDog MPU with a red switch bank for selecting either Williams or Data East special solenoid implementation.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDMPU004DIPSwitches.jpg ‎‎|300px|thumb|right| These DIP switches on this RottenDog are configured for a Williams game, even though they do not seem to match the PCB silkscreen.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU board can accommodate both Williams and Data East special solenoid implementations. This is accomplished with an 8 DIP switch bank, pictured at left. If set to the wrong game system, special solenoids will not operate properly in your game. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The DIP switch positions should be set the opposite of what you might think, based on the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpecialSolenoidCircuit.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A typical special solenoid circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Special solenoids on system 11 games are similar to the earlier variants used on all previous Williams&#039; board sets.  During gameplay/test modes the primary switches on the special solenoids (usually the pops and slings) are active, allowing actuation of those switches to fire the solenoids.  This is done by grounding an input to a 7402 logic chip which in turn pre-drives a 2n4401 pre-driver transistor which drives a TIP122 Darlington transistor to fire the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During solenoid test mode only, the secondary path to the 7402 is utilized instead to fire the solenoids.  Since there are 2 paths to fire the solenoids, it is possible for a special solenoid to work in game/test mode, but fail the solenoid test due to a failed PIA or 7402 chip, and vice-versa.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the primary switch associated with the special solenoid device. Therefore, System 9 special solenoids are not activated during solenoid test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a special solenoid actuation switch locks on, the solenoid itself will lock on as well, (hopefully) blowing the associated fuse before blowing all or some of the TIP122/2N4401/7402 circuit.  An inline fuse holder can be added to all special solenoids with a 1 amp fuse installed to help prevent this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11B games do not use the special solenoids in the same way. Special solenoid switches were added to the switch matrix instead, keeping all or some of the solenoid pulses under CPU control. It is easy to identify whether a game has CPU controlled special solenoids by inspecting the activation switches on the special solenoids. If there are both a primary and a secondary switch installed, the game operates via the direct-fire special solenoid setup.  (Note that a secondary switch in the case of slingshots does not mean the normal 2nd switch all slings shots employ. Rather, it refers to a switch that only activates when the sling activates. It is installed near the pivot point of the sling arm underneath the playfield.) Also the secondary switches go to CPU connector J18. If nothing is connected to J18, then the special solenoids are CPU controlled. In games like BK2K only the kickers are CPU controlled while the pop bumpers still use the secondary switches.    There was no rhyme or reason (no definitive start / stop point) which System 11B titles used special solenoid secondary switches, and which did not. Please refer to the game list [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11B above] to determine which did / did not use the secondary switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) that &amp;quot;protect&amp;quot; the board logic from shorts between the sense switches and coil power. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The usual cause of special solenoid circuit failure is a stuck switch that locks the associated solenoid on, causing the TIP-122 transistor to fail and the coil to get so hot that the winding insulation melts (causing a reduction of coil resistance, eventually approaching zero ohms). The zener diode (pictured, left) in the circuit may fail shorted as well. This will cause the associated coil to lock on even after repair of the other damaged circuitry since the zener is connected directly to ground. The shorted zener diode causes the 7402/2N4401/TIP122 circuit to react identically to a switch closure. Gack!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;If your game doesn&#039;t use the special solenoid switch inputs as in most System 11B games and all System 11C games (i.e. no connection at 1J18), then these zeners serve no purpose and may be clipped off. &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Unusual Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlwindPinchedWire.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A pinched wire (white/brown) that causes a tough to find solenoid problem.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 method of securing boards sometimes causes odd problems. The securing screws must be removed completely to remove a board vs the improved WPC method of sliding the board off the screw head via a &amp;quot;keyhole&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When securing the boards, it&#039;s important to ensure that wires aren&#039;t pinched behind the board. If a wire is pinched severely enough, the insulation will be displaced and the conductor will contact the backbox ground plain, which can cause a wide range of odd problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wire in the picture shown at left happened to be the ground path for coil #1, the outhole kicker on Whirlwind. When the game was powered on, the coil would lock on until the blanking circuit became active. Pressing the diagnostic/audit coin door button would also result in the coil locking on. This was actually the A/C relay flipping to the coil side for diagnostics and providing power to the coils. The outhole coil had a path to ground via the pinched wire and would lock on. A game could be started and the coil appeared to work properly until &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;any&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the 1 through 8 coils were activated (when the A/C select relay would energize again). At that time, the outhole coil would fire at the same time as the other 1 through 8 coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This one was a real head scratcher!&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps wired in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 flash lamps are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
This may seem painfully obvious, but with any lamp problem, where all lamps in the same circuit are not lighting, first see if the associated fuse is blown.&lt;br /&gt;
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====General Illumination Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
As a rule of thumb, general illumination (GI) lamp issues with System 9 or 11 games are dependent on the era of the game.  The reason for this is GI circuits passed through different boards over the years.  And, the majority of GI issues are typically due to the circuit board.  Not so much the circuit board itself, but the junction between the header pin connections on the circuit board and the connector pins located in the female housings.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is extremely common for the header pins and / or the female connections related to the GI circuit to heat up, and in worse cases char or burn.  When some of these games were in operation earning money, they could potentially be turned on for 8, 12, or more hours every day.  If the connectors were compromised at some time in the game&#039;s life, the issues become compounded.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The problem is a vicious cycle.  If either side of the connector heats up, it creates more resistance.  If it creates more resistance, it draws more current.  If it draws more current, it heats up.  This cycle continues until the connector blows the circuit&#039;s fuse (provided the proper fuse is installed and not by-passed), the connectors are so bad that the circuit no longer has continuity, or the connectors are replaced with new ones.  It is recommended that both the male header pin connector be replaced and the associated pin connectors which connect to it.  Replacing only one side of the connector is only asking for repeat problems down the road.  Header pins rated for 7 amp are highly recommended as a replacement.  If the 7A headers are used, the likelihood of the connector failing due to heat is greatly reduced.  Likewise, the use of Molex Trifurcon connector pins are recommended.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another prevalent problem is the failure of the relay board or the relay board connectors. GI relay boards are typically found under the playfield and on the back of the lamp insert panel. The job of the relay board is to switch the GI lamps on/off for special lighting effects. Over many years of operation, the solder joints on the connector may fracture.  Although it is more common for the male/female connectors to burn badly. Repinning these connectors, as is typical for GI connectors, is the prescribed fix.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Space Shuttle to Fire!=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 GI Circuits.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Typical System 9/11 Power Supply with GI Drivetrain Notated]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During this time period, general illumination entered the power supply [1 / 2], was parsed, and exited the power supply as 4 separate circuits [4].  Although there were 4 discrete GI circuits with 4 separate fuses [5], all 4 circuits were turned on/off via one relay [3] located on the power supply.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the factory connection on the power supply for System 9 games differs than what is shown in the picture. Connections [1 / 2] do not exist on System 9 games, and only two wires are used to input the general illumination instead of four.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Games From Big Guns to Swords of Fury=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone Interconnect.JPG|300px|left|thumb|The interconnect board from a Cyclone mounted to the left side of the backbox]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With all the games mentioned in this particular section, there were some design growing pains.  Williams was creating a preliminary interconnect board, however, it was very different from game to game at first.  Therefore, GI issues may occur at the power supply connections, the interconnect board connections, and / or at one of the discrete GI relay boards used.  Since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A shown at the pic on the left, the general illumination headers, connectors, and connector housings have been changed out due to fatigue / failure.  This is a common failure point on games such as Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Taxi to Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball=====&lt;br /&gt;
The games included during this era used a somewhat standardized interconnect board located below the CPU board.  The GI circuits coming directly from the transformer enter the board on the right side at connector J6.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  In actuality, the GI wires are only 4 wires, instead of 8 wires.  Once the upper 2 wires reach the board, each of them are daisy-chained through the insulation displacement connector (IDC).  Equally, the bottom 2 wires are connected in the same fashion.  This was presumedly done to reduce cost, and decrease the life expectancy of the connection as a whole.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect BK2K GI Marked.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Williams Interconnect Board with general illumination wire colors marked.  Interconnect board is from a Black Knight 2000]]&lt;br /&gt;
The most typical header connections that fail on the interconnect board are J6 (the GI input and return) and J7 (the GI output and return lines to the backbox insert).  The purpose of the picture to the left is to easily identify what GI circuits pass through what connections.  This will aid in attempting to check the continuity of your rework, whether only replacing just one of the header connectors or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the wiring color codes for J6 in the pic are not the incoming wire colors.  The wiring codes in the pic are illustrated this way to determine where the GI circuits disperse throughout the board.  The game&#039;s schematics in the manual include this information too.&lt;br /&gt;
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Keep in mind that discrete GI relay boards were still used during this time period.  Dependent on the game, there may be one to three discrete GI relay boards used.  Again, since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
======Repairing the General Illumination Input Connector / Wiring======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Butterfly_GI.jpg|thumb|300px|left|General Illumination input connector with looped (butterfly) wiring]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11 Interconnect GI Connection.jpg|thumb|300px|right|One method for repairing the GI input connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
From the factory, only 4 wires total were connected to the GI power and return input connector, which is located on the right hand side of the interconnect board.  With only 4 discrete connections per wire from the transformer, 8 wires are needed to connect to the interconnect board.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  To increase 2 wire connections to 4 wire connections, the wires connect to the IDC connector via one connector pin, pass through that connector pin, and loop back to another connector pin.  In doing this, the life expectancy of the connector and the header pins on the interconnect board are reduced (too much current for these connections to maintain over their lifespan).  The end result is typically burnt connector pins, housings, headers, and in some cases, the interconnect board too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To resolve the burnt connection issue, the header pins on the interconnect board should be replaced with new ones.  Preferably 7A higher current rated header pins.  As for the harness side, the housing should be replaced too, and Molex Trifurcon crimp pins used within the housing.  To compensate for the extra wires needed, each of the input wires will need a &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot; junction soldered in place.  To do so, take a small piece of wire approximately 4&amp;quot; - 5&amp;quot; long.  In the middle of the small piece of wire, carefully strip the insulation, leaving about 1/4&amp;quot; of exposed wire.  Place a piece of heatshrink on the single incoming wire.  Then, bend the small piece of wire at its center where the insulation is stripped, until both ends leads are nearly parallel with one another.  Take the incoming wire, and solder it to the exposed wire in the center.  The end result will look like a rudimentary &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot;.  Pull the heatshrink over the junction, and that&#039;s it.  This needs to be done for the remaining 3 wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the wire modifications, you can also do a board modification. The J6 connector on the right side can be burned to a crisp. Often lifting pads under the printheader. To repair this you can add a jumper wire to the top 4 traces, connecting pin 1-2-3-4 together. This can also be done for the bottom 2 traces, connecting pin 6-8 together, but you are still missing pins 5 and 7 to be connected to 6 and 8. Turn the board over and solder a jumper over pins 5 thru 8. The same can be done for pins 1 thru 4. Now you have the best possible connection.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_1.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board with Modification&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_2.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (front)&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_3.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (back)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorLampMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing lamp matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistor.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The same broken SIP resistor after removal.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Sockets=====&lt;br /&gt;
Failed lamp sockets are not very common with System 9-11c games.  If a specific lamp will not illuminate, spinning the lamp socket canister or solder tab can resolve the issue in some cases.  One thing to keep in mind is that all controlled lamp sockets have a diode soldered to two of the lamp socket tabs.  Due to this, the legs of the diode can get pressed against other leads on the lamp socket resulting in an electrical short.  The end result may be a lamp which shines more brightly than other lamps in the same column or row, or a whole lamp column or row will illuminate dimly when they shouldn&#039;t be lit at all.  The resolution is to inspect all associated lamps in the column or row, and look for solder tabs or diode legs touching where they should not be.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Pinbot, Williams introduced lamp boards.  Lamp boards were used in areas where lamp inserts were positioned too closely together, and it did not make logical sense (or it was not physically possible) to use individual lamp sockets.  With subsequent games, lamp boards were used whenever lamp inserts were &amp;quot;nested&amp;quot; in groups.  This trend was presumedly done to save on assembly and production costs.  One benefit of lamp boards is that bulb replacemnt became easier in most cases.  A simple turn of the twist lamp socket (WMS # 24-8767), and the 555 bulb could be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Lamp Board.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early direct solder lamp board as seen on Pinbot - the large color matrix below the top and right colored targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generations of lamp boards had the lamp column and row wires soldered directly to the board.  On one hand, this is beneficial, because there is one less mechanical connection used in the lamp circuits.  On the other hand, it makes it more difficult to remove the lamp boards completely from the game to clean and / or service.  On the plus side, very little goes wrong with the direct wired lamp boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|300px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Two things that can fail are individual lamp circuit diodes or the solder pads can develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot;, where the twist sockets make physical contact with the board.  To overcome the divots, simply add a little solder, and carefully reflow the solder pads.  Make certain not to apply too much heat...just enough to evenly flow the solder.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Fire!, Williams started using lamp boards with .156&amp;quot; header connections for the lamp column and row lines.  This allowed for easy removal and service of the lamp boards.  However, it introduced some new problems.  Because the lamp boards used were single-sided, (this was presumably a cost analysis decision), the .156&amp;quot; header pins can develop cold solder joints and crack due to vibration.  The problem can easily be rectified by removing the old solder from the header pins, and applying fresh, new solder.  This style of lamp board is susceptible to the same issues (bad diodes and divots) as mentioned in the direct wired lamp boards section above.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Adjacent Columns or Rows Lighting Simultaneously =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsS11ShortedLampColumnDrives.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Column drive transistor tabs touching, shorted together. Here, lamp columns 3 and 4 would light at the same time.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A problem seen fairly often is the tabs of either column drives or row returns touching, and therefore shorted and causing more than one column (in the picture at left) or row to light at the same time. If you have this issue, it&#039;s easy to quickly examine the column drive and row return transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Lamp Matrix Row and Column Testing =====&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using a jumper wire.  The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the lamp matrix columns and rows.  The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_columns.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP42 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns.  Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it&#039;s function is to prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix.  In this test we are only connecting a single lamp at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J7.  There is no pin 5 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a column doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q66&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q64&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q62&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q60&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q58&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q56&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q54&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q52&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_rows.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP102/122 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J6.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a row doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test. The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q80&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q81&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q82&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q83&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Grn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q84&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q85&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q86&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q87&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using MOSFETs in the Lamp Matrix Circuitry=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Procedure by Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. Using modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06), the heat (and power consumption) can be reduced substantially.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETSchematic.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Typical &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation (left), &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation on right. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics shown at left compare the widely used &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation with the &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation that uses two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half. Doing so drives the MOSFET with a 9 VDC Vgs.&amp;lt;br  clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 9 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors and IRF9Z34N FETs installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q23-30&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR5&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 11 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R82-89&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR16&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11_mosfet.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A very clean alternate implementation with resistors on the component side. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider DumbAss&#039;&#039;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shown at left is a very clean installation of all parts on the component side of the board. Note that the 1K resistors are situated such that the &amp;quot;body&amp;quot; of the resistor passes between the MOSFETs instead of the legs, thereby eliminating the possibility of a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.  Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorSwitchMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing switch matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Row and Column Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the switch matrix can be tested by simulating switch closures using a jumper wire on both System 9 and System 11 (all revision levels) MPUs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem9SwitchMatrixTesting.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Testing the System 9 switch matrix, but jumpering from pins on 1J8 to pins on 1J10.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As seen at left, testing the switch matrix rows and columns on a System 9 MPU is identical to testing on a System 11 MPU except for which connectors to use. The switch columns on the System 9 MPU at 1J8 are numbered right to left. The switch rows at 1J10 are numbered left to right. 1J9 is available (sometimes not stuffed) for opto switch processing, although this feature may never been used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 switch matrix operates on 5VDC. The switch columns at 1J8 are &amp;quot;strobed&amp;quot; by being pulled to ground successively by the 6821 PIA. The switch columns are normally pulled high via a pull-up resistor. If the switch at the intersection of the column and row is closed, when the column is strobed, the row will be pulled low too. In this way, the processor knows which column it strobed, and which rows return that strobe.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the system 11 switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_col.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix columns.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J10 pin 9, the leftmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated.  The test may report the switch name, refer to the switch matrix table in the manual to correlate the name to the switch number.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J8 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to row 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J8.  There is no pin 6 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire Colors&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Switch number&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_row.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix rows.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J10 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J10 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to column 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J10.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Shorted or non-working switch column====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One or more failed switch columns can be caused by a failed column drive transistor (Q42 through Q49, all 2N4401s) or a failed 1K SIP resistor pack at SRC6.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The column drive transistor part was changed with the system 11B MPU. System 9 to 11A MPUs use 2N3904 transistors at location Q42 to Q49 with 1.5Kohm inline resistors (R71 through R78). These column drive transistors fail quite often as these MPUs age. These 2N3904 transistors can be replaced with 2N4401s. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When System 11B was introduced, the switch column drives were changed to 2N5550s with 470 ohm inline resistors. The more commonly found, and beefier 2N5551, is a good substitute for the 2N5550. Before replacing the transistor, be sure which kind the board uses. Some early system 11B MPUs were stuffed with 2N3904s despite the schematics indicating otherwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A broken SIP can also cause a switch column not to work. This usually happens with System 11 and 11A CPUs. With 11B WMS also changed the switch section layout and eliminated most of the SIPs. The likely candidates are SRC6 and SR11. In the case of SRC6, measure resistance between pin 1 and 2 to 9. If it&#039;s broken it&#039;s usually open after pin 3 or 4. This is a bussed 1K SIP with additional 470pfd capacitors connected to ground and practically NLA. Fortunately the caps are not needed because they are also mounted on the board so it can be replaced with a standard 9-8 1K SIP. Pin 10 which is the common ground for the caps is not used here. SR11 is a standard bussed 560 ohm 10-9 SIP. Here you measure resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 to 10. Be aware that two types of SIPs are used on the board: bussed and isolated. If you suspect a different SIP has failed check the schematics for the pin layout. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Brokensip.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A broken resistor SIP.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a broken resistor package similar to SRC6 but out of a System 11 master display. As can be seen, the part may look solid to the naked eye, but it&#039;s actually fractured.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ground Row Shorts====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11CrackedSR11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Note the fracture in the SIP at SR11. The fracture became apparent only after desoldering the part.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A possible cause for one or more ground row shorts (indicated by the game software on the score display during switch test) is a fractured resistor SIP at SR11 (a 560 ohm 10-pin bussed resistor network). SR11 is a pull-up resistor that is connected between each switch row return and 5VDC. If the return is not pulled up, that return will look like a low signal continuously, which the MPU interprets as a row ground short. Visual inspection of the SIP &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;might or might not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; identify the cause of the problem. A better test is to remove the switch row return connector (J10) and probe each pin with a logic probe. The logic probe should indicate &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; for every pin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Specific to the board pictured at left, a logic probe indicated that J10 pins 1, 2, and 3 were all high but the remaining pins had no signal at all. The fracture can easily be seen between pins 5 and 6 of the SIP (pin 4 isn&#039;t used) meaning that pins 6 through 10 were not connected to 5VDC and therefore not pulling the switch row return to logic high. Hence, the MPU declared a row ground short for rows 1 through 5.  Note that the actual fracture can rarely be seen prior to attempted removal of the resistor network from the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 4N25 Opto Couplers in the Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:4N25System11InterconnectBoard.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Three 4N25 Opto Couplers on a Williams System 11 Interconnect Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games that include an Interconnect Board may use 4N25 Opto Couplers to detect power being applied to the flippers or to detect 28VDC being applied to the A/C relay (as in Rollergames). Pre-Fliptronic WPC games that use the -1 power/driver board also use 4N25 Opto Couplers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These opto couplers are connected to the game switch matrix. Detecting these switches is most often used for lane change and for entering HSTD initials. If one of these functions no longer works, the 4N25 opto couplers should be considered suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, testing an opto coupler is simple using the diode test function provided by most DMMs. Set the DMM to diode test, compare results against those pictured below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Testing a 4N25 Opto Coupler&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Internal.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The internal schematic of the 4N25. Pins 1 and 2 connect to an internal diode (LED). Pins 4 thru 6 connect to a PNP photo transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test3.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the diode connected to pins 1 and 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test2.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 5, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test1.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 4, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switches Not Registering with a Rottendog MPU / Driver Board Installed====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_Before.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_After.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Modified Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the opto switches are not registering at all in a game, and a Rottendog MPU board is being used, suspect that it is an older style board.  This board can easily be upgraded though.  U2 will have to be switched from a 74HCT240 to a 74HC240 chip, and RA5 will have to be changed from a 9-pin 4.7K ohm bussed SIP resistor network to a 9-pin 560 ohm bussed SIP resistor network.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 9/11 High Voltage Section Repair&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don&#039;t continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.  &lt;br /&gt;
====High Voltage Issues With the Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Check Voltages=====&lt;br /&gt;
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working.    &lt;br /&gt;
On the Power Supply Board, use a DMM set to DC volts with the - lead grounded, probe the following connector &lt;br /&gt;
pins to determine if the HV section needs repair.  If the display fuse, F1 is blowing, &lt;br /&gt;
you should remove the applicable display connector (with power off) before testing the voltages. Note that these are &amp;quot;loaded&amp;quot; voltages. If you are testing on the bench, or without displays connected, your measurements may vary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-11883 or D-12246:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 1 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 3 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-8345-xxx:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 3 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 4 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the test points are more than about 5 volts out of spec, then your HV section may &lt;br /&gt;
be malfunctioning (if you or a previous owner replaced Z2/Z4 with 1N4763A diodes to purposely reduce the display voltage, test readings in the 90&#039;s range would be normal).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check the table below for a solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Troubleshooting table=====&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Symptom&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Cause&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacement&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 0V ON BOTH +100/-100 lines&lt;br /&gt;
| Check F1 &lt;br /&gt;
| 1/4 Amp SB&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D3&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR1, ZR2&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R1&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q4&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR3, ZR4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q3&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R4&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=4 | F1 1/4 Amp Fuse Blows&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Capacitor at C1 and C3&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Display&lt;br /&gt;
| Display Glass*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN7180&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN7180*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN6118&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN6118*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| +118V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| -118V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  colspan=3 | * located on display board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Displays Test With no Shorts&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Once the displays are tested and shorts are eliminated, we can proceed with the HV section repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacing the components in the HV Section&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Since there are not that many components, if you are having problems isolating the &lt;br /&gt;
fault, a quick solution is to replace all the components in &lt;br /&gt;
the HV section. If only one side (+ or -) is failing, it is possible to rebuild only the failing side.&lt;br /&gt;
Check the parts section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the replacement parts for one or both failing sides:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;-Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+,-Location&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340 (or MJE15030)&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350 (or MJE15031)&lt;br /&gt;
| Q1,Q3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
| Q2,Q4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| Z1,Z3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| Z2,Z4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| R1,R4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| R2,R5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| R3,R6&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| C2,C4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| C1,C3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| colspan=4 | **This is a 91V Zener to reduce the voltage to prolong display life&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSPartIdentification.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visual depiction of the parts in a System 11 high voltage section. Note that the legs of the MJE15030/MJE51031 are crossed as this power supply originally used OEM parts SDS-201 and SDS-202]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;strong&amp;gt;Remove and replace HV components&amp;lt;/strong&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Stuff board with new components.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Leave a little space under components for air flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Bend leads on components so they won&#039;t fall out when board is inverted for soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Solder the parts to the board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip excess off leads&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE340/MJE350 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE340/MJE350 is the heat-sinked transistor.  On most Williams boards, this transistor pin configuration is not the same as the original part.  It will need to be installed vertically with heat sink attached to the transistor only.  The transistor will sit at about a 45 degree angle so the legs can be lined up to fit in the correct holes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check your board and insure correct orientation before soldering in place.  Late versions of the System 11 series boards were designed to use the pin configuration of the MJE340/MJE350 transistors.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Do not mount vertically if the power supply is designed to use the pin configurations of the newer transistors!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MJEInstall.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE15030/MJE15031 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys11MJELegsCrossed.jpg|300px|left|thumb|High Voltage section with MJE15031 installed. Note the crossed legs on the left transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 PS Alt HV Transistor Pads.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Power supply with pads for both styles of HV transistors]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 are rated for higher power and can be used instead of the MJE340/MJE350 (the MJE340/MJE350 are well within design specifications and are suitable replacements at 1/3 the cost of the MJE15030/MJE15031). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 pin configuration has the Base and Emitter reversed as compared to the MJE340/MJE350. In the image at left, the left transistor (MJE15031) shows one method of crossing the legs safely. The transistor&#039;s two left legs are shifted right on position. The third leg is then jumpered to the boards left through hole position.  If you prefer not to cross legs, this transistor can also be mounted vertically, but this transistor would be facing the opposite direction as compared to the MJE340/MJE350 pictured above.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some power supplies which have pads for both the SDS-201/SDS-202 or the MJE15030/MJE15031 style of transistors.  In the pic to the right, the MJE15030/MJE15031 transistors are installed from the factory, but there are solder pads just below for installation of the SDS-201/SDS-202 transistors. If installing ME15030/MJE15031, the upper pads are used, and no leg crossing is required.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready to test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the rebuilt power supply, return to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Check Voltages&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; section of this guide.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9-11 HV section of the PSU is very similar in design to the earlier System 3-7.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Power_Supply_Issues|Sys 3-7 PSU Problems]] section entitled &#039;&#039;&#039;+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU&#039;&#039;&#039;, for more detail.  It also provides links to source complete HV rebuild kits which will normally cost under $10 shipped.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Panel Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segment Identification=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegmentLetters.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Alphanumeric and Numeric Segment Identification.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Will Not Light=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PlasmaBallTest.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Testing a high voltage plasma display with an inexpensive plasma ball]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If power to the display is correct, and the display was moved to a known working display panel position (if possible), it is possible that the display has outgassed. A plasma ball can be used to determine if a display glass is outgassed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A Youtube video demonstrating the use of an inexpensive plasma ball for this purpose can be found [https://youtube.com/shorts/GGftl3S_OWg?si=T5Cdzyovtar6_Han &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segments Light &amp;quot;In Sympathy&amp;quot; With Other Segments=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ShortedSegments.jpg|300px|left|thumb|In this image, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; light simultaneously, even though only one segment should be lit. The last two characters illustrate the issue clearly. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider Pinball50.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Internal shorts within a display glass can cause segments to light &amp;quot;in sympathy&amp;quot; with other segments. That is, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot;, for example, will both light, when only one of the segments &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;should&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be lit. Segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; is lit and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; is lit. This is caused by an internal short within the glass. The short can be confirmed by &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;removing the leads of the associated segments from the PCB&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; and measuring resistance between them. The resistance should be infinite, or open.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, there is no way to repair the glass and it should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Commas stuck on (Players 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4)=====&lt;br /&gt;
System 9: Check IC36 on the MPU (6821 PIA)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 16 = Players 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 17 = Players 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game in attract mode, check these pins with a logic probe. They should go low each time the displays turn off. if they stay high, the PIA is likely bad and will need to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Fuse F1 Blows=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the UDN Chips&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the display fuse is blowing, you should check the display board for shorts before connecting&lt;br /&gt;
a new or rebuilt power supply to the display board, as a shorted display or chip can damage a good power&lt;br /&gt;
supply.  Remove the display board from the system.  The display characters are driven by the two types &lt;br /&gt;
of UDN chips, the UDN7180 &amp;amp; UDN6118 (or UDN6184).  Locate these chips (there are several)&lt;br /&gt;
on the board and test them with your DMM set to diode check.  Clip your + (RED) &lt;br /&gt;
lead to the ground trace of the board.  Probe the UDN chips as shown in the diagram.  &lt;br /&gt;
If any shorts are read in the tested pins, the display should not be connected to the power &lt;br /&gt;
supply until the shorts are corrected.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pins labeled &#039;dont care&#039;), the UDN&lt;br /&gt;
chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board.  Take care to preserve this chip,&lt;br /&gt;
as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace.  Now install an IC socket in its place.&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat the test with no chip installed.  If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing Display Glass=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change1.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed with glass nipple in proper location]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change2.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Replacement glass installed after circuit board was drilled to allow for glass nipple in different location]]&lt;br /&gt;
All plasma displays have a finite life expectancy.  Display glass replacements were and are offered in several configurations.  The differences in these configurations are mainly the placement or lack of a display &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; on the back of the glass.  The glass nipple is what can pose as somewhat of a problem, when replacing a display glass.  Williams did place a rather large hole in the display circuit board.  However, the placement of the glass nipple has changed.  To overcome this issue, a hole can carefully be drilled through the circuit board to allow for the glass nipple.  When drilling, drill successive holes, starting with a small drill bit first, rather than drilling one large hole.  This will reduce the chances of the circuit board &amp;quot;splintering&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At one time, [http://www.pinballpcb.com/Displays.html pinballpcb.com] did offer replacement displays and / or just the replacement display circuit boards.  Neither of these products are available anymore.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit Repair.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Original display glass was secured to its circuit board with double-sided, high tack, foam tape.  If this cannot be acquired, a simple method to secure an existing or new display glass is to use silicone caulk or RTV caulk.  However, in following this method, the glass must be supported on the board until the caulk cures.  Wrapping the glass with rubber bands is a great way to do this.  Once the caulk is cured, just cut off the rubber bands.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Logic States of Display Output Signals for a Working MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
These logic states were recorded from a System 11A board. This board was running Swords of Fury code in display test mode manually paused with all characters / digits on &amp;quot;8&amp;quot;.  This is for games with a 4 x 7 display board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
L=LOW, H=HIGH, P=PULSE&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ3 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || H&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ2 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || None (Key) &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ1 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || L || 1 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || L || 3 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || L || 5 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || L || 7 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L || 9 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || L || 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 14 || L || 13 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 16 || L || 15 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 18 || L || 17 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 20 || P || 19 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 22 || P || 21 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 24 || P || 23 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 26 || P || 25 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jumper Settings for a newer System 9 Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board jumpers.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Jumpers Circled on a Comet System 9 Speech Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned above, the System 9 speech board is essentially the same as the System 6/7 speech board. However, the newer speech board has jumpers added to increase the flexibility of EPROMs used.  Either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs can be used.  If using 2532 EPROMs, install jumpers W2 and W4, and remove jumpers W1 and W3.  If using 2732 EPROMs, install jumpers W1 and W3, and remove jumpers W2 and W4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Sound or Speech Calls=====&lt;br /&gt;
To start a sound test, simply press the SW2 momentary switch at the bottom of the CPU board located between connections 1J16 and 1J17.  Once SW2 is pressed, the CPU will cycle through all of the sound / speech calls continuously.  Each System 9 game has a chart located in the manual, which lists the speech and sound calls made during test.  The benefit of the chart in the manual is that it lists the ROM where a particular call originates.  If a particular sound / speech call is not heard, the associated ROM listed for that call may be bad.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another result of speech calls missing is possibly a bad U2 or U3 on the speech board.  Both of these chips are 1458 op-amps.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Isolating the CPU Sound from the Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the sound / speech calls originate from the CPU board, while the remaining calls originate from the speech board.  If after running a game through sound test by pressing SW2, and some sounds are missing or very low in volume, a good idea is to isolate the CPU board from the speech board.  All of the sounds originated on the CPU board, leave the board via the 40 pin ribbon cable, and go to the speech board for mixing.  Once mixed, all of the sounds and speech are then returned to the CPU board, amplified, and sent out to the speakers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Much like the System 6/7 sound and speech boards, the sound can be isolated from the speech board for testing purposes.  The System 6/7 Type 2 sound board uses a jumper at position W1.  When jumper W1 is installed, the sound board can be diagnosed without the speech board installed.  The equivalent with the System 9 CPU board is jumper W10.  This jumper is typically not connected.  However, when it is connected, the sounds originating from the CPU board can be heard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Locate jumper W10 on the CPU board.  W10 is located to the right of SW2 on the board. There should be two very small wires clipped on either side of W10, as if W10 was installed and removed. Connect an alligator test lead across the short leads of W10.  If the short leads are not present, a short light gauge wire or wire wrap can be tack soldered to the solder pads of W10, or use a jumper wire to connect the lower legs of C32 and R76 which are just right of W10 (see pic, below).  With a jumper installed at W10, some sounds should be heard when SW2 is pressed. Sound test, via the coin door diagnostic button is likely to provide sounds for all but sound 7, which is a voice call. If no sounds are heard, further troubleshooting must be performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=350px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Adding W10 to a System 9 CPU Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumper.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Locating jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumped.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Temporarily jumpering W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System9JumperTemporary.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Alternate for jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games are known to &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; a bit. The &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; is caused by electromagnetic interference from the lamp matrix insinuating itself on the sound circuit. To minimize the interference, ensure all boards are screwed tightly to the backbox ground plain, with all screws installed.  This improves grounding and will help minimize &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another cause of hum could be an inconsistent +5DC volts from the power supply. An indicator of this being the cause of hum would be the game occasionally resetting as well.  Replacing caps C8 and C10 on the power supply may correct this issue.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the version of System 11 board, an 11C board or anything else (nothing, 11A, and 11B), sounds and music are handled with different specifics.  With the first 3 generations of MPU boards, the sounds originate from the MPU board and the background music originates from the sound board.  With the 11C board, both sounds and music are on the sound board, as the MPU no longer has a sound section populated on it. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume POT value=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 5K linear volume POT. Others shipped with a 10K linear volume POT. Both POT values work fine and either can be used to replace a failed volume POT.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 50 ohm resistor soldered to the volume POT. It is thought that this resistor was included so that the volume could never be turned to zero. For route games, at least some sound was thought to increase game earning potential. This resistor can be removed or jumpered around to enable turning the sound volume completely off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Boot Up Diagnostic Tones for the D-11297, D-11298, and D-11581 Sound Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11297, D-11298, and the D-11581 sound boards all provide diagnostic tones (&amp;quot;bongs&amp;quot;) at power on.  A single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; means that the sound board is operating properly.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of a bong indicates a problem with the sound board or it&#039;s connections. The possible causes for failure are numerous, including a failed amplifier, missing or incorrect connector placement, missing or noisy (AC ripple) power for a required voltage (-12VDC), failed speakers or the connection to the speakers, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is healthy enough to perform it&#039;s own self-diagnosis, it will attempt to indicate the problem by playing a specific number of bongs, as shown in the tables below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11297 &amp;amp; D-11298 Sound Boards&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U3 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11581 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U5 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Diagnostics Via the MPU Board for Games Prior to 11C=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the upper switch of the two switches on the side of the MPU board will test both the CVSD and DAC on the MPU board.  The first sound is typically sound ROM (on the MPU) specific, and it is a test of the CVSD chip.  The second sound is described as a  &amp;quot;twing&amp;quot;, and it is a test for the DAC.  If no sounds are heard, refer to the potential issues listed above in the previous section.  If one &amp;quot;ring&amp;quot; is heard, it denotes that the U23 RAM chip has failed.  Two or four rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U21 ROM.  Three or five rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U22 ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Connecting the Speaker and Volume Connections for a System 11 MPU Board on the Bench=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS Sys11 Speaker Volume Connection.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Speaker and Non-adjustable Volume Control Connected on a System 11 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the sound on a System 11 MPU on the bench, a speaker and volume control must be connected to connectors 1J15 and 1J16 respectively. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The speaker should connect to pins 2 and 3 of 1J15. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the adjacent pic, a 470Kohm resistor was used in lieu of a volume pot.  Other resistor values can be used, but 470Kohm allows the sound to be set to a comfortable audible level.  Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped into a .156&amp;quot; housing as shown. This resistor/connector set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3 through System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using alligator clip leads to power the board, use special care as to not send +12v down the -12v line (the pins are adjacent to one another).  Sending +12v down the -12v bus will most definitely destroy the 1408 DAC chip (if populated).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Is Very Faint Even at Maximum Volume =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:55536-CVSD.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Two hard to find 55536 CVSD ICs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
While most techs would suspect either a TL082 or a TL084 amplifier (on a pre-DCS sound board) or a 1458 amplifier (on a System 11 MPU) as the cause of this issue, the 55516/55532/55536/55564 CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta-Modulator) can also cause this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isolation to the CVSD is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into sound test.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use an oscilloscope to probe pins 9 and 12. A scope must be used since the signals are too subtle for a logic probe to detect.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 is a clock signal. &lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 12 is a data signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is making sounds that use the CVSD, both pin 9 and pin 12 should show &amp;quot;off nominal&amp;quot; signals. If the CVSD is working correctly, the output at pin 3 should be showing signal also. If it is not, then the CVSD has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Some Sounds Lower Volume Than Others =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11DACChannel.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The sound section of a System 11 MPU and the 2N3904 amplifying transistor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another sound anomaly manifests as some sounds being more faint than others is a failure in the 1408 DAC sound lane channel. In High Speed, for example, &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot; exercises both the 1408 and 55536 sound lanes. Sounds 1, 3, and 5 are all made via the 1408 DAC lane. If those sounds are faint, the issue could be the 10uf capacitor (C8), the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) that is used as a pre-amplifier, the 3.3K resistor (R7), or the 1408 DAC. Eliminating the easy possibilities first, replace the 10uf capacitor. If that doesn&#039;t fix the issue, replace the 2N3904. The 2N3904 may &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot; as failed, but not always. If the issue still remains, replace R7. Lastly, replace the 1408 DAC (U2). An equivalent part that may be used is the DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video, showing the problem and resolution can be viewed [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7fk3PtwvtE here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS_Sys11_1408_flipped_lid.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 1408 in the sound section of a System 11 MPU lost its top!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In another instance, Pin*Bot, all of the sounds were faint, except the last two in test.  This ended up being a bad 1408 DAC.  The last two sounds were unaffected, because the 55516 CVSD chip handled them.  With a visual inspection, the 1408 in the pic could not be determined it was bad, until it was in the midst of being desoldered from the circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Voice callouts are much softer than music/sound =====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A and 11B MPU boards were populated with different resistor and capacitor value parts. If an 11A MPU is installed into an 11B game (F-14 into an Earthshaker for instance), it is possible that the voice callouts will be noticeably softer than the other music/sound. The following table details the difference between the two sound mixing sections &#039;&#039;(Thanks to Pinsider &amp;quot;Mneubey&amp;quot;)&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11n_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11 (nothing) sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Resistors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R21 is 12K in 11B, 15K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R22 is 22K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R19 is 56K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R16 is 180K in 11B, 56K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R17 is 270K in 11B, 220K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R15 is 180K in 11B, 43K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R20 is 12K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Capacitors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C12 is 470pf in 11B, 1200pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C11 is 100pf in 11B, 180pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C10 is 470pf in 11B, 1800pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11b_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11B sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Board D-11581 Mixer Section Resistor Values =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D11581ResistorValues.jpg|500px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Mixer&amp;quot; section resistor values across D-11581 sound board games. &#039;&#039;Data courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A through 11C sound boards were populated with different resistor values. The table shown at left details the differences between the sound mixing sections for each game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the value of R13 will change also. It should be 4.99K for &amp;quot;Fire!&amp;quot; through &amp;quot;Police Force&amp;quot;, and 10K for all other games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Some Music or Garbled Music with a D-11581 Sound Board and 5 Bongs=====&lt;br /&gt;
A sound board booting with 5 bongs indicates a failure of the U20 ROM. While U20 could, in fact, have failed, 5 bongs could also mean that the software can&#039;t access U20. In one such case where 5 bongs were heard, during music test, tests 4 and 6 would play music but the music was garbled and/or incorrect. The root cause was W10/W11 jumper settings on the sound board that didn&#039;t match the ROM size. W10/W11 should be set to the left for 27256 ROMs; to the right for 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Modifying a pre-System 11C Sound Board to use 27512 ROMs (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. Note that W3 is &amp;quot;always IN&amp;quot;. The solder mask over the W3 jumper trace has been removed for clarity. Normally the trace is covered by a dashed white silkscreen line.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3Modified.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. W3 has been cut to enable use of 27512 ROMs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some revisions of the D-11581 sound board will not accept 27512 sound ROMs without modification. By the time that revision C was manufactured, jumpers W10 and W11 were added above U20 to enable use of larger ROMs. Prior to that, jumpers W2 and W3 were implemented, but were of little use since both jumpers tied A15 (pin 1) of each EPROM to +5VDC. Making the modification pictured at right, then installing jumper W2, enables the use of 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jokerz specific sound issue=====&lt;br /&gt;
A special case of interference is present on the Jokerz game, which uses a unique stereo sound board.  A deficiency in its design prevents all of the noise from being eliminated from the board.  Details can be found in the original Williams service bulletin here: [http://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf Jokerz service bulletin at IPDB.org]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Whirlwind Doesn&#039;t play Sound 7 During Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
This particularly annoying issue appears to have no impact during gameplay. The only manifestation is that &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot;, sound 7 doesn&#039;t play. The normal sound is an explosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This issue is caused by old game ROM versions at U26 and U27. Revision PA1 doesn&#039;t send the command to the sound subsystem to play sound 7, even though sound 7 is displayed on the alphanumeric display. Updating U26/U27 to &amp;quot;LA3&amp;quot; as can be found at www.ipdb.org will correct this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:YT.png]] Correct Whirlwind sounds are demonstrated in a YouTube video found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Board Theory of Operation (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated and including jumpers W10 and W11]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Major components of the D-11581 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*68B09E externally clocked CPU, which is also used in all WPC MPU and pre-DCS sound boards&lt;br /&gt;
*68B21 Peripheral Interface Adapter, capable of running at 2Mhz&lt;br /&gt;
*Up to 3 ROMs. All boards can accommodate 27256 ROMs. Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
*6116 RAM (2K bytes). Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate a 6264 RAM (8K bytes)&lt;br /&gt;
*YM2151 sound synthesizer paired with the YM3012 DAC (outputs channel 1 and channel 2)&lt;br /&gt;
*55516 CVSD (continuously variable slope delta) audio encoder, which provides a 3rd audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*1408 DAC (digital to analog converter), which provides a 4th audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*Various 74XX ICs that perform address decoding and chip selection logic&lt;br /&gt;
*1458 pre-amplifiers and TDA2002 amplifiers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11581 sound board shares a lot of board design and architecture of the pre-DCS sound board that was introduced with WPC games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power requirements for the board are supplied via connector J3. The typical sound board power levels are required, 5VDC, 12VDC, -12VDC, and Ground. Three 100uf capacitors reduce noise on the power busses along with several small ceramic caps which filter high frequency noise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Reset&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The on board 68B09E is reset via the external reset signal provided by the MPU board, via connection J4, pin 18. If attempting to operate the board without the MPU board connected, the processor must be manually reset via momentarily grounding pin 37 of the 68B09E.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Clocking&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clocking signal for the board originates at the 8Mhz crystal oscillator. U16, a 74LS74 Dual D-Type FlipFlop divides the clock signal yielding both the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Q&amp;quot;clock signal. E and Q are phase shifted by one half clock cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chip Select Logic&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chip select is accomplished via the normal &amp;quot;memory mapped I/O&amp;quot; method, using U14 (74LS139) and U15 (74LS138). &lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for all three ROMs (U4, U19, U20) is implemented by U14.&lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for the RAM (U5), YM2151 (U3), and the 6821 (U12) is implemented by U15.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;How sounds are produced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are provided via J4, a dual row .100 connector of 20 pins. These sound selects are held &amp;quot;normally high&amp;quot; via a 4.7K/470pf 10-pin bussed SIP pull-up resistor/capacitor (SR1) tied to 5VDC. These SIP resistor/capacitor parts are no longer available. A bussed 4.7K 9-pin resistor network can be used as a replacement. The capacitor feature of the original part filtered high frequency noise from the communication lines. In practice, noise doesn&#039;t impact the interface significantly enough to be of concern.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board will pull the appropriate sound select signals to ground via the 6821 PIA at Uxx. When the appropriate signals are pulled to ground, the PIA is programmed to interrupt the 68B09E processor via the FIRQ and NMI signals. The 68B09E then reads the sound select signals presented at the 6821s input port (PB0 through PB7) via the processor data bus (D0 through D7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor then employs the 4 sound channels available to it, along with encoded sound files contained in the ROM images, to create the intended sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Where Do The Sounds Come From?====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections can be used to ensure that all sounds are played by the Williams combined MPU and Sound Board System.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Comet|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-2m7vKCeg2A Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Sorcerer || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pXacwGqv5C4 Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Shuttle || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/B-gsuEw1jgU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Cats || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-JJKPvMBplg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bally Game Show || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/vwA4FST62ug Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Banzai Run || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/6D87Z2iUsv0?si=x8BKbDsxHFI_yodb Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight 2000 || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/uyJlxc2ewtY Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Cyclone || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pEdSxFu1Zio Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Diner || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rwCLpG5jU2I Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Earthshaker || [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eH0FVvbBQUQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Elvira &amp;amp; the Party Monsters || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/OS_SRCNaMwg?si=6Wop4YLK2wa6Mco4 Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| F-14 Tomcat || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rG26I-oDK6E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Fire! || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/dXKRw1GqUcQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| High Speed || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/yAmJzD9EAZA Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| PinBot || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/CoVvhwggLfU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Police Force || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/Em63v0-zJKk?si=gt3qD2jLsqJFdwlW Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Pool Sharks || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/gceZEgLMaDQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Rollergames || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/tN-Ns9eh8Pg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Station || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/9XERXpVGCsY?si=jSNjikeN1nM6GeQy Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Swords of Fury || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/u6baQrse5LI?si=3Y85cpAXqDF5_Qis Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Taxi || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/P7DIs5djK-E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Whirlwind|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Circuit Schematics Error ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Correct wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems Incorrect.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Incorrect wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.  Some of the early System 11 manuals show incorrect wiring for the EOS switch.  One of the EOS switch wires should be soldered to the center lug of the coil.  However, the other wire should be soldered to the lug with the non-banded side (anode) of the diode, not the lug with the banded side (cathode) of the diode.  Manuals which have this misinformation are High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings. Millionaire and Pinbot appear to be fine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Electrical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;50V Flipper Power Board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;Aux Power Supply&amp;quot; board that was introduced with these games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and 11 flipper circuitry is identical to all prior Williams System 3-7 games. The design had not changed from even the old electro-mechanical flipper implementation when the End of Stroke switch was introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yes, Williams used serial wound coils from High Speed to Millionaire and then converted to parallel wound coils beginning with F-14 TomCat and throughout the rest of the System 11 run and into the WPC run. But the basic operation of System 9/11 coils remained &amp;quot;EM-like&amp;quot; whether serial or parallel wound.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are only three switches that can affect the electrical operation of a System 11 flipper, including strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Switches inside the Flipper Enable relay (K1), located on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The cabinet flipper button switches.&lt;br /&gt;
#An End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch associated with each flipper coil and integrated into the flipper mechanism assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Series Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the flipper coil. The EOS switch is closed, creating a short across the low power windngs, that removes resistance of the low power windings from the circuit. Only the smaller number of high power windings are &amp;quot;in circuit&amp;quot; with the EOS switch closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at the low resistance high power windings of the coil. The coil plunger is pulled into the coil and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, removing the short across the low power windings, and placing them in series along with the high power windings. Together, the total resistance of the coil becomes the sum of both the low power and the high power windings. With more windings, the coil will have higher resistance and hence, lower power. The combined high resistance windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelWoundFlipperDiagram.jpg|left|400px|thumb|Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Diagram courtesy of Chris Hibler.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the low power windings of the flipper coil. And, since the EOS switch is closed, the high power windings also have a path to ground. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;both&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; of the coil parallel windings. Since electrical current &amp;quot;takes the path of least resistance&amp;quot; the lower resistance high power winding takes most of the current and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, breaking the path to ground for the high power windings. The high resistance low power windings remain in circuit, and provide &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; power to the flipper coil. The high resistance low power windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Mechanical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Return springs&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured nylon bushing&lt;br /&gt;
*Insufficient gap between nylon bushing and crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat damaged coil&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil sleeve&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil stop&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper shaft slipping within crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Others?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 Display Single AlphaNumeric Character Won&#039;t Light===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11B Bridged Header.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A solder bridge on the &amp;quot;digit strobe&amp;quot; connector.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the category of &amp;quot;things that will make you crazy&amp;quot;, the solder bridge pictured at left shorted pins 8 and 9 on the connector that carries the digit strobes to a System 11 display. This prevented one of the digits on the display from ever lighting. It&#039;s always a good idea to examine prior work closely. Assuming the prior tech knew what they were doing is not always valid.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a System 6/7 Speech Board in a Comet===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 CPU with 2732 Speech.JPG|300px|left|thumb|A Modified System 6/7 Speech Board Functioning with a System 9 CPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should the need arise, a System 6/7 speech board can be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified to use 2732 EPROMs] for a Comet.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a Data East MPU Board in a System 11 Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Whaaaat?!?!  Yes, a Data East MPU can be used in a Williams or Bally System 11 game.  However, this is limited to System 11C games only, and only a DE 520-5003-03 (Version 3) MPU can be used.  The reason for this limitation is because games previous to 11C have some or all of the sound section circuitry on the MPU board populated, the 11C does not.  Likewise, DE boards do not have any sound section circuitry located on them by design.  The board swap is not a simple drop in replacement though.  Some minor modifications have to be performed for the DE board to function properly in an 11C game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first hurdle is to properly power the DE board.  Connection 1J17 is where power originates on the 11C board.  The complimentary connection on a DE board is CN17.  The problem is that these connections are keyed differently between the two boards.  1J17 has a key at pin 7, while the key on CN17 is at pin 8.  The safest way to make a connection to CN17 with the 11C game harness is to remove pin 7 on the DE board.  This will have no ill effect, if the DE board is to be placed back into a DE game.  The worst case scenario if pin 7 is removed and the board placed back into a DE game is that the CN17 connector housing could be installed off by one pin, thus shorting the +5v to ground, and blowing the logic voltage fuse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Jumpers for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Correct jumper setting on DE MPU for 11C game ROMs]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Special Solenoid Wire Swap for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Addition harness and Z-connector installed to correct special solenoid drive outputs]]&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the game ROM jumpers have to be set correctly.  Since all 11C games use dual ROMs, jumper setting J4 must be in on the DE MPU, while J5 is out.  Install the 11C game ROMS in the following positions.  U27 (ROM 1) is to be inserted into the 5C socket, while U26 (ROM 2) is installed into the 5B socket.  Notch on the chip / socket is facing to the right.  There is an alternative method.  The code for the dual ROMs can be burned into a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Burning_Dual_ROMs_into_a_Single_5C_ROM single 27512 EPROM.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, there is a problem with how DE boards poll the special solenoid drivers differently than 11C boards.  Two of the drivers are correct (solenoids 17 and 21), while the four others are mismatched.  To overcome this problem, either a harness can be created (DE board to 11C harness) with a Z-connector installed between 1J19 and the game harness, or the 7-pin housing (the 9-pin housing at 1J19 is split with a 2-pin housing and a 7-pin housing) at 1J19 can be repinned.  The benefit of building a harness and adding a Z-connector is that it is easily reversible, if an 11C board is to be placed back into the game at a future time.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following wires will have to be connected to 1J19 / CN19 on the DE board for the game to function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Stock Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Swapped Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || ORG-VIO || ORG-VIO  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || ORG-GRY || ORG-GRY  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || BLU-ORG || BLU-YEL  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || BLU-RED || BLU-ORG  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || Key || None  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || BLU-YEL || BLU-BLK  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || BLU-BRN || BLU-BRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || BLU-GRN || BLU-GRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || BLU-BLK || BLU-RED  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane at Game Start (Pinbot) ===&lt;br /&gt;
Trough and shooter lane switches test alright in switch test.  Ball feeder coil from trough to shooter lane tests fine in solenoid test.  If the motor for the visor is disconnected, and the visor does not cycle at the start of the game, the ball will not kick to the shooter lane.  This may be an issue if one or both of the visor switches are not recognized too.  Not certain what code revision this particular game was running.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane and Drop Target Will Not Reset (Cyclone) ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone UnderPF Fuse 1A 5A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Fuse under the playfield of a Cyclone, which powers solenoids 1A and 5A]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Both the outhole solenoid (1a) and drop target reset solenoid (5a) are the only multiplexed 24v coils in Cyclone.  The power wires for these coils are brown.  For some reason, Williams decided it would be a good idea to put a fuse under the playfield for these coils &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(which is not included in the documentation)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.  The fuse/fuseholder is located just to the right of the spook house subway.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids Are Not Pulsed During Solenoid Test on System 9 Games===&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the enabling switch associated with the special solenoid device.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU energizes a coil 5 times===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Police Force&#039;&#039;&#039; - After the pinball is switched on the ramp diverter coil engages 5 times. After the game start the diverter coil engages 5 times again. Diverter mechanism doesn&#039;t hold in position. So after the coil is energized the mechanism falls back and so the switch is closed again. Then the software tries another 4 times to resolve the problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; Clean the diverter mechanism and in particular the plastic. Lubricate the plastic lanes!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Elvira and the Party Monsters drop target reset coil blows the lamp matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
The drop target reset coil should be mounted with the solder tabs down. If mounted with the solder tabs up, (toward the playfield) the solder tabs can contact the J-A-M lamp sockets. This blows the lamp matrix ICs on the MPU board by sending coil voltage through the lamp matrix.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=24753</id>
		<title>Williams System 9 - 11</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=24753"/>
		<updated>2024-10-22T14:43:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* System 9 (D-10749) - fixed typos */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms sys9 boardset.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 Board Set from Space Shuttle]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingBackbox.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 (nothing) Board Set from High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Boardset.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 11A Board Set from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Jokerz Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11b Board Set from Jokerz! (Note that power supply is a prototype)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sy11B Boardset.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11b Board Set from Transporter the Rescue]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11C_Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|300px|System 11c Board Set from Rollergames]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams system 7 boardset was replaced in 1984 with the system 9 boardset, and then again in 1985 with the system 11 boardset.  Combining the driver board, sound board, and cpu directly onto one board eliminated several design deficiencies of the earlier 3-7 boardsets; mainly the 40 pin interconnector, and extra wiring harness inter-board connectors.  Larger ROMs could be fitted directly onto the boards allowing for more complex rulesets and sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 and System 11 board sets are not 100% compatible. With a fair amount of effort, a System 11 board could be made compatible with a System 9, but it is not worth the extended effort to change the jumpers. It&#039;s far easier to just modify the rom images so that they are plug and play when installed in a System 11 CPU. You can find them already on the ipdb. The primary differences between the System 9 and System 11 board sets are the sound system and rom space.&lt;br /&gt;
(add more info later)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As time went on, the System 11 board set underwent some changes too.  The power supply, sound board, and CPU / driver board have minor changes.  More apparent was the addition of circuit boards.  Starting with the 11a board set, a more complex sound board was added (System 11 sound boards are strictly background sounds only).  Later in the System 11 series, sound functions were partially (11B) or fully removed (11C) from the MPU, and eventually were solely handled by a dedicated sound board. Game-specific interconnect boards and auxiliary power driver boards were introduced in System 11B games.  The interconnect boards acted as a pass-through for switch, lamp, flasher, and solenoid signal lines and circuits. It also allowed circuits with different voltages to share the same power source by using current limiting resistors to drop voltages to the appropriate levels.  All general illumination fuses were moved to this board.  The auxiliary power driver board has the AC relay, which finally centralized the location of it.  Likewise, several fuses, beefier TIP36C transistors, and bridge rectifiers are centralized on the auxiliary power driver board.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|Strike Zone|| 1984 || 1916  || unknown || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light|| 06-1984 || 530 || no speech || || 5610-09563-00 || only a few were made with System 9 boards inside&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Space Shuttle|| 12-1984 || 535 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sorcerer|| 03-1985 || 532 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet|| 06-1985 || 540 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alley Cats|| 10-1985 || 1918 || Unknown ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[High Speed]]|| 01-1986 || 541 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grand Lizard|| 04-1986 || 523 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Road Kings|| 07-1986 || 542 || D-11197-542 (Background music only)  || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinbot|| 10-1986 || 549 || D-11297-549 (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tic Tac Strike|| 11-1986 || 1919 || Unknown ||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Millionaire|| 01-1987 || 555 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11298-555.JPG | D-11298-555]] (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|F-14 Tomcat|| 03-1987 || 554 || D-11298-554 (Used on 1st 5,000 games - Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound) / D-11581-554 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire!|| 08-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire! Champagne Edition|| 09-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
!Aux Power Driver&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big Guns|| 10-1987 || 557 || D-11581-557 || D-8345-557 || D-11583-557 || C-11762 || Uses D-11814 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Space Station]]|| 12-1987 || 552 || D-11581-552 || D-8345-557  || D-11813-552 || C-11762-552 || Uses D-11814-552 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Mine|| 01-1988 || 1920 || None || D-8345-1914 || None || None ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone|| 02-1988 || 564 ||[[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG | D-11581-564]]  || D-8345-557  ||  D-11813-574 || C-11762-564|| Uses D-11814-564 Flash Lamp Resistor Board  || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run|| 05-1988 || 566 || D-11581-566 || D-8345-566 ||D-12247-566 || D-12112 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Swords of Fury]]|| 06-1988 || 559 || D-11581-559 || D-8345-557 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-559 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Taxi|| 08-1988 || 553 || D-11581-553 || D-12246-553 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-553 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Top Dawg|| 11-1988 || 1921 || None || D-12246 || None || D-12313-1921 || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jokerz!|| 12-1988 || 567 || D-12338-567 || D-12246 ||  D-12247-559|| D-12313-567 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Earthshaker]]|| 02-1989 || 568 || [[Media:System 11 Sound Board.JPG | D-11581-568]] || D-12246-568 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-568|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight 2000]]|| 04-1989 || 563 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-585.JPG | D-11581-585]] || D-12246 || D-12247-563 || D-12313-563|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Transporter the Rescue|| 04-1989 || 2008 || D-11581-2008 || D-12246  || D-12247-2008|| D-12313-2008 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Police Force|| 08-1989 || 573 || D-11581-573 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-573|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Shuffle Inn|| 10-1989 || 1922 || None (assumed) || D-12246 (assumed) || None || D-12313-1922 (assumed)||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Elvira and the Party Monsters|| 10-1989 || 2011 || D-11581-2011 || D-12246 || D-12247-2011|| D-12313-2011 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats|| 11-1989 || 575 || D-11581-575 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-575|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mousin&#039; Around!|| 12-1989 || 2009 || D-11581-2009 || D-12246 ||D-12247-2009 || D-12313-2209 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Whirlwind]]|| 01-1990 || 574 || D-11581-574 || D-12246 || D-12247-574 ||D-12313-574 || Uses a C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board to control 5 extra devices || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11C===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Bally Game Show|| 04-1990 || 2003 || D-11581-2003 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2003 || Uses a C-13286 Sound Overlay Lamp Board || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pool Sharks|| 06-1990 || 2014 || D-11581-2014 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2014 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Rollergames]]|| 06-1990 || 576 || D-11581-576 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-576 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner|| 09-1990 || 571 || D-11581-571 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-571 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Radical!|| 09-1990 || 2015 || D-11581-2015 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2015 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude|| 11-1990 || 2016 || D-11581-2016 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2016 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Riverboat Gambler]]|| 11-1990 || 50007 || D-11581-50007 w/ 512K ROMS (assumed) || D-12313-50007|| || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball|| 01-1991 || 20009 || D-11581-20009 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-20009 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Documentation Errors====&lt;br /&gt;
* Error on the [[High_Speed#MPU_Schematics_Error_for_U21_.26_U22|MPU I/O signals for U21 / U22 of High Speed]].&lt;br /&gt;
* [[#Flipper_Circuit_Schematics_Error|Flipper Circuit Schematics Error]] in the manuals for High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Details for board and cabinet schematics System 9-11 games can be found in the game manual or parts catalogs. Some copies can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball] or on [http://www.ipdb.org/ IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Troubleshooting &amp;amp; Reference Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|69-8955 (April 21, 1986)&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-pinball-troubleshooting-reference-manual_16-8955_sys9.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet, High Speed, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
|System 9 games. Also includes Strike Zone shuffle alley game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|D-11581 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Parts Catalogs===&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Parts catalogs also had supplementary updates to add and replace pages as newer games were released after the initial release of the catalogs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1986-1989)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/rvsk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-blue-book_16-9064-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Black Knight 2000, Comet, Cyclone, Earthshaker!, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Jokerz!, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Police Force, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (1989-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/feme/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Williams-parts-catalog-red-book_16-9190-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Dracula, Fish Tales, Funhouse, The Getaway, Hurricane, The Machine, Riverboat Gambler, Rollergames, Slugfest, Terminator 2, Whirlwind, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/itjk/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[[media:Bally-midway-parts-catalog-yellow-book_16-9147-B.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Atlantis, Black Rose, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Dr. Who, Elvira, Game Show, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Party Zone, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Supplementary service bulletin books were released, which included service bulletins that detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1989&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-Service-Bulletin-Book-1989-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1989.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone, Bonzai Run, Taxi, Earthshaker, Truck Stop, Transporter&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1990&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1990-service-bulletin-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1990.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner, Police Force, Pool Sharks, Rollergames&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1991-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude, Jokerz, Riverboat Gambler&lt;br /&gt;
|This book includes some WPC games&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 eliminated a huge issue with the earlier system 3 through 7 boardsets, the 40 pin interconnect between the MPU and Driver boards.  All circuitry previously separated into MPU, driver, and sound boards was combined into a single MPU board. Satellite boards were still used for displays, speech, and solenoid expansion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with &#039;&#039;&#039;Big Guns&#039;&#039;&#039;, Williams introduced another weak link into their system, the interconnect board. Initial implementations were used to disperse the general illumination between the playfield and backbox. The connectors on interconnect boards were prone to overheating and failure just like prior implementations. At the same time, flash lamp resistor boards were being used. These were created to collocate all of the flashlamp current limiting resistors, and eliminate under playfield flashlamp resistor boards, which had proven themselves problematic in the high heat, high vibration environment under the playfield. Resistors often desoldered themselves and/or vibrated so much that the connection fractured. Flash lamp resistor boards were only used on three games:  Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone. In addition to the interconnect and the flash lamp resistor board, the auxiliary power driver board made its appearance. The auxiliary power driver board housed all of the high current transistors (TIP36c), solenoid and flasher fuses (including discrete flipper fuses), the AC select relay, and the solenoid power bridge rectifiers. The auxiliary power driver board did go through some minor changes, but it was functionally equivalent through the last System 11C game.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Banzai Run, a more standardized interconnect board was created. This interconnect board merged the general illumination interconnect with the flasher driver board. Switch and lamp circuits passed directly through this board as a matter of manufacturing convenience. Later interconnect boards added 3 opto couplers to indicate when the flippers and AC relay were activated (the same circuitry as used in the flipper power section of the WPC-089 -1 Power/Driver board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest advantages of the system 11 board set is its ability to switch one set of coil driver transistors between 2 sets of coils/flashers. This is accomplished via a relay on a separate board called the A/C select relay (the A/C select relay was eventually moved to the auxiliary power driver board starting with Big Guns). The theory is that coils that are less frequently activated will be on the A side of the relay, and that flashers will be on the C side of the relay.  Most of the time during gameplay, the C side is active, enabling the flashers. If the driver transistor for the A/C select relay itself shorts, the relay defaults to the coil side, allowing the game to continue to operate in a reasonable fashion (usually the A side coils are the ball shooter lane, drop target resets, VUK - basically coils that don&#039;t need to be able to operate 100% of the time unlike a slingshot coil or pop bumper coil).  Data East&#039;s board set was essentially a copy of the system 11 board set, but Data East programmed it the opposite way, so that the flasher side of the A/C select relay is active by default. Data East games, when the A/C relay doesn&#039;t operate, just sits there and flashes lamps instead of playing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and early System 11 games do share a disadvantage with the earlier 3-7 board sets, they still utilize special solenoid circuitry. The pops and slings on system 9/11 games do not activate via a switch which is seen by the MPU&#039;s program which fires the coil. Instead, the switches directly fire their associated coils via logic gates on the main board. The main disadvantage with this system is that the solenoids fire continuously as long as their activation switch is closed. A locked on sling or pop will burn out components quickly. It is recommended to add a 1, 1.5, or 2 amp inline fuse to each coil on a directly fired system 11 game. Usually just the pops and slings are direct fired coils. However, other coils were designated to the special solenoids. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games did not use the direct fire solenoid switches. Switches on the switch matrix were used instead. To easily identify games which do not use direct fire solenoid switches, IJ18 on the MPU board will not have a harness connection attached to it.  Likewise, the slingshots and pop bumpers will no longer have a set of scoring switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One way that System 9 games differ from the previous 3-7 board set is that the special solenoids are not controlled by the CPU at all. In other words, the special solenoids are not pulsed during solenoid test, as the physical board architecture does allow for this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The software in system 9-11 games continued with the same machine architecture from system 6 and 7, except for the special solenoids as mentioned above. More ram became available, up to 2k, but no game used over 800 bytes. This is likely due to the lower cost of 6264 RAM than 6116 RAM as was used in early System 9-11 games more than any other reason. Additional diagnostics in the form of switch error checking appeared in system 11. Any switch not activated over 30 games (16 games for flipper switches) would cause an error to be called out at power on. The software was able to compensate for broken switches by designating another switch to perform the same function as the broken switch.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9MPU.jpg |300px|thumb|left|System 9 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9MPUFactoryMod.jpg |300px|thumb|right|These high frequency filter capacitors were added at the factory, and are normal. Their purpose is the snub high frequency noise in the Advance and Auto Up/Down coin door button circuits.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 9 MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a single version of the System 9 MPU in all System 9 games. A few minor modifications to the board may have been made, but it&#039;s essentially the same board for the entire 3 game run of Space Shuttle, Sorcerer, and Comet. The picture at left shows an early board that featured two inductors (copper wound coils that &amp;quot;smooth&amp;quot; DC power) at L1 and L2, adjacent to connector 1J17. Later revisions of the board used &amp;quot;zero ohm&amp;quot; jumpers instead, presumably to reduce cost.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUFront.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 10 MPU component side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem10MPUBack.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Williams System 10 MPU solder side. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Brian Johnson.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams released a single game using an MPU board designated &#039;&#039;&#039;System 10&#039;&#039;&#039;. The game &amp;quot;4-in-1&amp;quot; ([https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=4-in-1&amp;amp;sortby=name&amp;amp;search=Search+Database&amp;amp;searchtype=quick IPDB link]) was released in 1985 and is more like Pachinko than pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From the Internet Pinball Database:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;&amp;quot;This game is known in Williams documentation as &amp;quot;4-IN-1&amp;quot; but that name never appears on the game itself. A total of 100 games were produced. Each came with four interchangeable playfield overlays for the themes of Baseball, Poker, Football, and Soccer. The operator could change the overlay and Instruction Card, re-option switches, and have a new game in the same cabinet.&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11&#039;&#039;&#039; games used one of four different revisions of the System 11 MPU. The first version of the System 11 MPU was completely self-contained, able to make game sounds on the board. A simple background sound board was used to add some game sounds. Between the baseline revision of the System 11 MPU and the last revision of the MPU (System 11C) incrementally more of the sound processing and sound circuitry was removed from the board (not stuffed).  None of the System 11 shuffle alley games use a separate sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem11CPU.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early System 11 (nothing) MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingLater.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Later System 11 (nothing) MPU. Note extensive alkaline corrosion abatement, NVRAM install, and use of modern reset generator. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11 (nothing) MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This picture shows the early System 11 MPU. A later revision of this MPU, pictured at right, has an additional jumper W16 located between the 7 segment diagnostic display and the relay, and a 4.7K ohm resistor between the 7447 and the resistor DIP. The early PCB on the left has a trace routing error to the sound ribbon cable connector. If you use it with a later system 11A sound card you will get no sound because the sound card doesn&#039;t get reset properly. If you wonder why your High Speed doesn&#039;t beep when turning it on this one is also the culprit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11ZenerDiodeAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes added to the back of the System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were added to the layout of the PCB in subsequent revisions of the board (11A, etc).]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|right|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) incorporated into the board layout and stuffed at the factory on a later board revision. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows six 6.2V zener diodes added to the solder side of a System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were left off the factory silkscreen of the board. Later revisions of the System 11 MPU added them to the component side of the board. Their purpose is to protect the special solenoid switch inputs. Either a ZPY6,2/ZD6,2/1N4735A (1 watt) or ZF5,2/1N5234B (1/2 watt) can be used. This mod is purely optional. In reality the diode doesn&#039;t help much if you short the switch input with the solenoid voltage. In this case the diode and the 7402 are usually damaged and need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, if the System 11 (nothing) MPU is used in a System 11A game or later, pins 6 and 7 of the adjacent connector (J18) must be tied to the ground plane at the edge of the board. These pins provide the ground for the special solenoids. Without the modification they do not work. Some early System 11A pins might not need the mod. If unsure just check if a cable is connected to pin 6 or 7 in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A-PB.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A rare prototype System 11a MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11aTransitionVersion.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Blanking, 5VDC, and Diagnostic LEDs factory installed in a &amp;quot;transition&amp;quot; vintage System 11a MPU. The prior version 7447 (U48) and resistor DIP (U47) has been replaced with a 7407, discrete resistors and LEDs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11TransitionTag.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A prototype System 11a MPU with original label]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11a &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Prototype&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This MPU was only used in Pin Bot. It&#039;s actually a System 11 (nothing) MPU PCB layout, with the  7 segment LED display replaced at the factory with 3 LEDs as used in all later System 11 MPUs (11A/B/C). The latest trace revision of this board also has the ground mod (connect 1J18, pins 6 and 7 to board ground) allowing it to work in any 11A/B/C game without modification. According to a friend it was referred to by the name of 11a instead of 11A by distributors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A late production System 11A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11A MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11A MPU can be used in all System 11 games. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and possibly the amplifier section must be stuffed. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board. On early production system 11A boards, the amplifier section was fully stuffed, just like the original System 11 board. Later in the production of System 11A boards, the amplifier section was not stuffed, just like an 11B board. But unlike System 11B boards, the System 11A board still has the same switch section layout as the original System 11 MPU, making it easy to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 CPU Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 11B MPU. Note that a large portion of the sound circuitry, including the TDA2002 amp, was not stuffed in late System 11A boards or any System 11B MPU boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11B MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11B MPU can be used in all System 11 games too. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and all of the sound amplification components must be added to the board. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11C.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C MPU. Note that none of the sound circuitry, including the 6802 processor and 6821 PIA, is stuffed in System 11C MPU boards. All sounds were generated by the sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11C MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11C MPU can be used only in System 11C games since none of the sound processing circuitry was stuffed.  It can be used in games prior to 11C, if the sound section is populated.  However, some of the components needed are rare and / or costly, and there are a fair amount to install.  If there is no other choice but to use this board, it is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU9211.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU004.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The RottenDog &amp;quot;MPU004&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU with sound section overlay]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;RottenDog MPU9211 and MPU004 Aftermarket MPUs&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU9211 (shown at left) was designed to support all Williams System 9 - 11 games. How well the board works across that great breadth of games is somewhat questionable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CVSD used on this board is a CMX639D4 produced by CML Microcircuits. It replaces the 55516 (or 55536) CVSD used at U3 on original System 9 - 11 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU004 (shown at right) was an earlier design thought to support all Data East and System 11 games. Again, how well the board accomplishes this for Williams games is questionable. A significant source of confusion on this board (like all RottenDog boards with DIP switches) is that the DIP switches are labeled opposite of traditional labeling. That is, set all switches to OFF for Williams games, ON for Data East games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDWilliams9211LaterRev.jpg |300px|thumb|left|The RottenDog &amp;quot;System 9211&amp;quot; Aftermarket MPU, later revision]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A later revision of the RottenDog 9211 MPU included a second trim POT to adjust the balance between 1408 DAC sounds and 55536 CVSD sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Picture of the lamp column portion of the lamp matrix of a System 9 MPU board.  Note that the TIP42 drive transistors were removed from this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The lamp matrix is made up of two parts - the lamp columns (drives) and lamp rows (returns).  In most cases, the lamp row consists of eight 2N5060 over-current shunt SCR&#039;s and eight TIP122 drive transistors, while the lamp column consists of eight 2N6427 predrive transistors (WMS sometimes used MPS-A14 instead) and eight TIP42 or TIP42C transistors.  However, there are some instances, as shown in the pic to the left, where the predrive transistors for the lamp columns are 2N6548s.  It is unknown why Williams chose to use these transistors on occasion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The over-current shunt circuit on the lamp row (returns) works by sensing the voltage drop across the 0.4 ohm, 3 Watt resistor on emitter of the TIP122 driver transistor. If a short circuit is present in the lamp row, the short circuit current will result in a higher than normal voltage drop across the emitter resistor. This voltage will trigger the gate of the 2N5060 SCR, causing it to turn on and shunt the base drive to the TIP122 transistor. This will turn off the driver transistor and prevent damage due to excessive current. Note that an RC circuit consisting of a 0.1uF capacitor and 1K ohm resistor is present on the gate of the SCR. This prevents a false trigger of the over-current shunt circuit due to an initial peak current from cold lamp filaments.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Switch Matrix Explained=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System9SwitchMatrix.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The System 9 Switch Matrix circuitry, as found in the Sorcerer manual.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Description&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At regular intervals, say 1 every msec or so, the 6808 microprocessor scans the switch matrix. This is done by pulling one switch column to ground, then sensing the switch row return state. Each row on which ground is detected means that the switch at the intersection of the column grounded and the detected row ground, is closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Hardware Detail&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 writes the column data to the address location occupied by the 6821 at U15 on the board. This causes the 6821 output registers (PB0 – PB7) to propagate the data to a 74LS244 octal buffer at U45. The 74LS244 mirrors that same data at it&#039;s output pins. The data pattern on these output pins will have all bits set to logic “1” except one bit, which will be set to logic zero, or electrical ground. The ground is applied to the base of a 2N3904 transistor (which had been held high by a 4.7K SIP pull-up resistor SR8) where the ground is applied to the switch column (called switch matrix drives on the schematic).&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Closed switches connected to that column will then cause the normally high (via yet another pull up resistor, SR16) gate at a 74LS08 quad NAND gate (U51 and U52) to be pulled to ground. This NAND gate enables the circuitry to detect a switch closure returned via either connector 1J9 or 1J10.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 then “reads” the row returns by reading from the address space occupied by the same 6821 at U15 used to pulse the column strobes earlier. This time it reads 6821 registers PA0 – PA7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the processor knows which column it drew to ground, and it knows which rows were caused to be pulled to ground via closed switches attached to the column. From this information, the closed switches can be identified. Genius. Bania: “I&#039;m tellin&#039; ya Jerry, this switch matrix stuff is gold Jerry, it&#039;s gold!”.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch diode isolates the switch in the matrix. Without this isolation diode, multiple simultaneous switch closures will cause false returns and confuse the processor. A switch diode that is open will always prevent a switch from registering, in the same way that a broken wire or failed open switch would.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jumper Settings and Locations for System 9 &amp;amp; 11 MPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are charts of the jumpers on System 9 &amp;amp; 11 boards.  Rather than listing the boards by their platform (System 11A/B/C), each chart is listed by the numbers stenciled on the circuit boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10749-00 REV. C (System 9)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W2, W5, W6, W7, W9, &amp;amp; W12.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1 / W2|| Below U12  || Microprocessor Internal RAM Enable. W1 IN, W2 OUT when using 6802, reverse when using 6808 || U12 RAM can be removed with 6802 and W1 installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W3||  ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Left of U49 || Country jumper. Remove for German factory settings, add for US factory settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U5 || Along with W7, used to send +12V to opto rows   || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U5 || Along with W6, used to send +12V to opto rows  || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +12v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W9|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +5v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10|| Below U50  || Installed - sounds from CPU board can be played without speech board attached  || Typically not installed, except Strike Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W11|| Below U37 ||  Used when U19 game ROM 2 is used || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| Below U36 || Used to increase U20 game ROM 1 size from 2764 to 27128 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. - (Typically System 11)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, &amp;amp; W7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U48 || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. B (Typically System 11 - Referred to as Prototype System 11a in text above)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU    || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Blanking signal to input &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; of U48 LED decoder chip  || not present on first pcb revision&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12091-00 REV. - (Typically System 11A)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| Below U23 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12206-00 REV. A (Typically System 11B &amp;amp; 11C)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U25  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U25  || only 2K will be used from the factory&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs ||  Remove for German text, add for English text || This jumper is not used in games with 16 digit score displays. Instead, install the U26 and U27 EPROMs for country and game. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| To the left of U24|| Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W18 || Below U23 || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U23 || only 2K will be used. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W19 || Below U23 || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U23 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Combining the System 9 Sound ROM Images====&lt;br /&gt;
Pinside user, &amp;quot;Dumbass&amp;quot;, has created replacement System 9 MPU boards.  One of the new things that he implemented in the board design is a daughterboard that can be mounted to the main MPU, which handles the speech duties.  Therefore, the speech board with its sometimes problematic ribbon cable no longer has to be used.  However, the sound and speech chip code now has to be combined together on a 27256 PROM, which is used at position U49.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
The file [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732] is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[File:Pad.zip]]. Below is how the code should be concatenated for it to work properly.  It is very similar to what is done for the System 9 code to be modified for a System 11 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Space Shuttle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = 0000h&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sorcerer&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = E67Fh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Comet&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum =  F9CCh&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Converting the System 9 ROM Images to work in a System 11 MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to create System 11 compatible ROM images from System 9 ROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The file &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;[https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Pad.zip pad.732]&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[file:Pad.zip]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 CPU works out of the box with a 27128 EPROM at location U27. You may choose to double the ROM image, creating a 27256 image so that its size is consistent with the other System 11 U27 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove jumper W8 and install jumper W9 on the System 11 CPU to enable sound to work properly. System 11 controls the sound reset via software. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Space Shuttle=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sorcerer=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u21.128 + cpu_u21.128 cpu_u21.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u22.128 + cpu_u22.128 cpu_u22.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.732 + cpu_u20.764 cpu_u20.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.l2.bin + cpu_u20.l2.bin cpu_u20.l2.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.l2.128 + cpu_u20.l2.128 cpu_u27.l2.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sorcerer is the only System 9 pinball game using 2 ROMs which make things complicated for repair. You can use the cpu_u20.128 image in a system 9 CPU jumpered for Space Shuttle or Comet. If you install W12 and remove W11 the CPU will be jumpered for a 27128 EPROM. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Comet=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 /b    &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech 2532.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board Using 2532 PROMs (from Space Shuttle)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|System 9 Speech Board Using 2732 PROMs (from Comet)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The speech board used in the three System 9 games, Space Shuttle, Sorcerer and Comet is essentially the same as the speech board used in System 6/7 games. However the speech board was enhanced during the Space Shuttle run. Four jumpers were added to accomodate either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs. When burning EPROMs, make certain which style of ROM is used.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Early Later.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board - Left unit is from early Space Shuttle, right is from later Space Shuttle]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Only the early Space Shuttles use 2532 EPROMs from the factory. Later Shuttles, Sorcerer and Comet use 2732 EPROMs.  The later speech board is backward compatible. If using such a board, either 2532s or 2732s can be used for the first two System 9 games (or System 6/7 games), provided that the jumpers are set for the appropriate EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the speech board generating speech sounds, it mixes the sound and speech signals via the potentiometer on the speech board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsSystem11BackgroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Background Sound board as found in High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11197 Road Kings Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11197 Background Sound board as found in Road Kings]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsD-11297BackGroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11297 Sound board as found in Pinbot, fully populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11298 Pinbot Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11298 Sound board as found in Pinbot. This version only has U4 populated (U19 is not).  Uncertain why U19 is needed.  Note that the CVSD &amp;quot;lane&amp;quot; of the board is not stuffed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System_11_Sound_Board.JPG|500px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound board, not completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D-11581-F14.jpg ‎|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound board, completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated, with W10/W11 Jumpers. W10/W11 enable use of 512K sound ROMs as found in all System 11C games like Game Show, Dr. Dude, Pool Sharks, Rollergames, Diner, Radical, and Bugs Bunny]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-12238 Jokerz Sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:JokerzSoundBoardPinOut.png|700px|thumb|right|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only - Connector PinOut]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581SchematicIcon.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Use hyperlink at right to open D-11581 sound board schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D11581PartsDelta.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|Parts missing from partially populated D-11581 sound boards]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Link to:&#039;&#039;&#039; [[media:Audio_schem_11581.pdf|Schematics for the D-11581 sound board]].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The parts shown at right represent the delta from a partially populated D-11581 to a fully populated D-11581. *The value of R13 will vary between 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms) and 10Kohms. If R14 and R15 are 10Kohms, then R13 should be 4.9Kohms (or 4.99Kohms). If R14 and R15 are 20Kohms, then R13 should be 10Kohms.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem11PSPreBigGuns.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Pre-Taxi Power/Regulator Board. This power supply has had the header pins replaced and the 5V filter cap at C10 replaced. Note that this board has the 20A fuse for the GI still installed. This indicates that it is an early System 7 board. The fuse and it&#039;s holder should be replaced by a wire in all System 9 and 11 games]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_B.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply - Revision B (Pinbot)  Note that the top fuse holder just below the large 15000uF capacitor is broken on the left side]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These power supplies use obsolete parts at Q1 (SDS-201) and Q3 (SDS-202). The PCB print was used from Black Knight through Swords of Fury, with slight modifications. Up until and including Fire!, Q1 and Q3 were the obsolete SDS-201 and SDS-202. Starting with some Fire!, the board uses an MJE15030 at Q1 and an MJE15031 at Q3. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-201 at Q1 may be &amp;quot;6557&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9057S&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-202 at Q3 may be &amp;quot;MDS60&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9058S&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlyWMSPowerSupplyTraceRoutingErrorCloseUpAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of the corrected trace routing error on a Fire! power supply board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply (High Speed) Schematics.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There was a trace routing error on the original Fire! power supply pcbs. WMS cut the trace and used a jumper to correct the error. This error was corrected in the PCB layout at the start of &amp;quot;Big Guns&amp;quot; game production.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_E.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS Power Supply - Revision E (Cyclone)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Big Guns and games after, the solenoid and lamp power power sections were no longer stuffed because they were relocated to the Aux Power board. The GI relay is also missing on these boards because discrete GI relay boards were placed under the playfield and/or behind the backbox lamp insert.  By doing this, specific GI strings could be turned on/off versus &amp;quot;all or none&amp;quot; of the general illumination.  This later board has the fuses only for display and 5V power. In a pinch, the unstuffed parts could be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Big Guns, 2 100mA (1/10A) SB fuses are installed just to the left of the power supply in the backbox. These fuses protect the +100V and -100V circuits against shorts. Not all games used 1/10A slo-blo fuses. Some games used 1/8ASB fuses instead. This may have been due to 1/8ASB fuses being more readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics for this power supply also list part numbers MPSD52 and MPSD02. The equivalent part number for an MPSD52 is a 2N5401. The equivalent part number for an MPSD02 is a 2N5551.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Regulator Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSPSSchematic1503015031.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Schematics for Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used from Taxi thru the remainder of the System 11 game production. &lt;br /&gt;
Note that Taxi used an early revision of the board. The placement of some of the resistors and zener diodes in the HV section of the board is different than later board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===50V Flipper Power Supply Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Williams50VPowerSupply.jpg|300px|thumb|left|50VDC power supply as used in System 11 (nothing) and 11A games (C-9939).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games all used the 50V power supply board as pictured at left. This simple board takes 48VAC from the transformer secondary and uses a 35A/400V bridge rectifier to produce about 50VDC. The voltage is smoothed somewhat by a 100uf electrolytic capacitor. The transformer secondary is protected from a short in the bridge rectifier by either a 4ASB or a 5ASB fuse. Be sure to consult the manual for your game for the proper fuse value. Never overfuse a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Power Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
At least two different revisions of the Aux Power Board were used in System 11B/11C games, pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Auxiliary Power Board from Space Station (D-11813-552)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 Power.JPG|400px|thumb|center|Auxiliary Power Board from Earthshaker (D-12247-568)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Interconnect Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Interconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Backbox Interconnect Board from Space Station]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Lamp Board.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Earthshaker]]&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board was essentially designed for ease of manufacturing and assembly.  When Williams ultimately settled on using the same unit in all games, (give or take some parts here or there), modularity was apparent too.  There was no longer a need to build complex, custom wiring harnesses between the CPU / driver board, backbox insert, and playfield.  The interconnect board remedied this issue.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanzaiRunInterconnect.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Banzai Run]]Although the first four System 11B games, which include Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone use some form of an interconnect board, it wasn&#039;t until Swords of Fury when the interconnect board was used as a standard for the remaining System 11 games.  The interconnect for Banzai Run (shown on the right) is completely different from anything else used by any game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board used in Swords of Fury uses a different part number, D-12185-559, compared to later System 11 games that used part number D-12313-x (x denotes the game&#039;s model number). They are not interchangable. Swords of Fury and Taxi had lane change switches still mounted on the cabinet. With later games lane change switches were removed and two optocouplers at position U2 and U3 (connected to the switch returns) were added to the board. The circuit is essentially the same as was used in early WPC games and enabled elimination of problematic physical lane change switches from the game. Starting with Jokerz, the third coupler at position U1 is used by the game software to check if the A/C relay on the aux power board is working.  U1 transmits information back to the MPU as switch 2 on the switch matrix, provided that the A/C has energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The early versions of the interconnect board were located on the left side of the backbox and positioned vertically.  The more common interconnect boards were located in the backbox positioned horizontally, just below the CPU board.  The later board passes the following circuits:&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp general illumination circuits&lt;br /&gt;
*flipper power and ground&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp columns and rows&lt;br /&gt;
*switch columns and rows &lt;br /&gt;
*flash lamp power&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What differentiates the board from game to game are the resistor values used for the flash lamp power circuits.  In some cases, some of the resistors are left unpopulated and / or a zero ohm jumper is installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (C-8363)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 SS Sorc Master Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|C-8363 Early System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This is the same master display that is used on all System 6A and System 7 games and is used on most System 9 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (D-10749)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10749.jpg|300px|thumb|left|D-10749 Late System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This master display board was introduced during the System 9 run and is mostly found in some of the later Comets that were manufactured.  The major difference between this master display board (D-10749) and the previous master display board (C-8363) is the D-10749 board replaced the card-edge connectors used on the C-8363 with pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any System 9 machine that is wired with card-edge connectors to use a C-8363 master display board can be converted to use a D-10749 master display board by re-wiring to use pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the mapping of the connectors &amp;amp; pins from a C-8363 to a D-10749 to aid in this conversion:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!D-10749 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!C-8363 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 16&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-14&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 15&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-16&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 14&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-17&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 13&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-13&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 12&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-12&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 11&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-15&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-7&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-8&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 10&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 9&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 8&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 7&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-11&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 6&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-10&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 5&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 3&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-7&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-8&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 1&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-1&lt;br /&gt;
|D1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-2&lt;br /&gt;
|C1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-3&lt;br /&gt;
|B1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-4&lt;br /&gt;
|A1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-5&lt;br /&gt;
|D2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-6&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-7&lt;br /&gt;
|C2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-8&lt;br /&gt;
|B2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-9&lt;br /&gt;
|A2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-10&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-18&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-11&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-1&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-2&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-3&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-4&lt;br /&gt;
| +100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-5&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C.&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-6&lt;br /&gt;
| +5 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-1&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C. on D-10749&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 (Discrete Displays High Speed to Pin Bot and Banzai Run)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10877.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-10877WithAlternate7180.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|System 11 Master Display Driver Board with UDN7180 &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot;. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Aaron Gross&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right shows &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot; that replace UDN7180 chips, which were beginning to be become expensive and harder to obtain during the production run. The daughter cards use discrete transistors, much the same way as one version of the older System 3-6 Master Display Panel did. U9, U12, U13, and U14, originally UDN7180s, have been replaced on this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A (Millionaire / Early F-14)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11414-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A Millionaire Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB actually came out of an early F-14 where they were recycled. Millionaire had it fully populated with additional lamp covers. The mounting brackets for the later D-11610 display changed so if you get a replacement for your F-14 first check which one is used in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A/B (F-14 to Swords of Fury)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11610.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11A/B 4 7 Digit Segmented Displays Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (Taxi and Police Force)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-2.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B Display Driver Board D-12232-2 for 2 16 digit segmented displays + one external connector for a 7 digit display]]&lt;br /&gt;
Taxi and Police Force uses a D-12232-2 master display with J4 ribbon connector stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Taxi and Police Force. You would need to add U3 (6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connector J4. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (all other WMS 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12232.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11B/C Display Driver Board D-12232-1 for 2 16 digit displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11C (Riverboat Gamber)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-3.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11C Display Driver Board D-12232-3 for 2 16 digit displays and 2 connectors for 7 digit jackpot displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
Riverboat Gambler uses a D-12232-3 master display with all ribbon connectors stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Riverboat Gambler. You would need to add U3 and U4 (both a 6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connectors J4 and J6. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display. This display can also be used in Police Force and Taxi.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B/C (all Bally 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Bally-L16-Display.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally left side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12502-1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|WMS Bally right side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Other Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Overlay Board (C-13287)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlWindSoundOverlayBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams &amp;quot;C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board&amp;quot; as found in WhirlWind.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This relatively simple board was used on Whirlwind only to accommodate 5 additional solenoids (flashers or motors). The board logically sits between the System 11 MPU and the sound board, intercepting data normally sent directly to the sound board, and acting on that data only when specific codes are commanded. The board also relays data not specifically intended for it, on to the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Current Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS C-12493 High Current Driver Board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-12493 High Current Driver Board from Earthshaker]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The high current driver board was used on Earthshaker to drive the shaker motor. It was used on several other Bally/Williams WPC games while designated different part numbers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Space Station Opto Position Board (C-11872)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpaceStationOptoBoardC-11872.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams C-11872 Space Station Opto Positioner PC Board Assembly]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is unique to Space Station. The &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; at Q1 and Q2 (both 2N3906s) in the picture at left are clear silicone caulk used to dampen vibration on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Remotely Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Flasher Board Pinbot.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Flash Lamp Resistor Board (from Pinbot)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The earlier design of flash lamp resistor board was mounted under the playfield within in the vicinity of the flash lamp circuit(s) that were powered by it.  Each board had a maximum of 4 power resistors (2 per flash lamp circuit).  The higher resistance resistor is 330 ohm 7 watt, while the lower resistance resistor is 5 ohm 10 watt.  The purpose of the larger value resistor is to keep the flash lamp powered with minimal voltage.  This keeps the flash lamp filament &amp;quot;warm&amp;quot;, which puts less of a strain on the flash lamp.  In turn, it is supposed to extend the life of the flash lamp. The smaller value resistor is used as a current limiting resistor which allows the solenoid voltage to be supplied to power the flash lamp.  By powering the flash lamps with solenoid voltage, it eliminates the need for an additional, dedicated secondary transformer winding. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Centrally Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px heights=380px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Flash Lamp Resistor Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Big Guns Resistor Board.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-557(Big Guns)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:CycloneBigGunsFlashlampBoardD-11814-564.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-564 (Cyclone)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS_Space_Station_Resistor_Board_D-11814-552.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-552(Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were used on early System 11B games prior to the use of the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.  The board is located in a very awkward location.  It is screwed to the back of the lower cabinet. Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone all have this board in this location.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistors on the board &amp;quot;eat current&amp;quot; (limit current) since the 13V #89 flash lamps are wired to coil voltage (about 38VDC). When implementing this board, Williams chose to change the wire colors as the circuit passes through the board. Combined with the generally poor Williams System 11 documentation, this makes it tough to track down problems with non-working flash lamps. On the plus side, the wire wound cement resistors on the board do not fail often, probably due to the location of the board (resistor boards located under the playfield have high resistor failure rates due to heat and vibration).  However, they obviously can fail. If there is power at the flash lamp, but grounding the flash lamp transistor does not light the lamp, the associated drive transistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were abandoned after Space Station.  Flash lamp circuits and resistors became integrated into the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====A/C Relay====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early AC Relay.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A/C relay board (early design ie. F-14, Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A/C relay placed on aux power driver board starting with 11B games (later design)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Road Kings, System 11 games make use of what is referred to as an A/C relay.  The purpose of the A/C relay was to drive twice the amount of coils and flashers by using half the amount of drive transistors.  This process is commonly referred to as &amp;quot;multiplexing&amp;quot;.  Typically, if the A/C relay was at rest, the &amp;quot;A side&amp;quot; solenoids would engage.  When the A/C relay was powered, the &amp;quot;C side&amp;quot; flashers would engage. However, there were sometimes solenoids multiplexed with other solenoids.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, High Speed, which does not use an A/C relay, uses 8 discrete drive transistors to drive solenoids / flashers 1-8.  Pinbot, which does use an A/C relay, uses the same 8 discrete transistors to drive solenoids / flashers.  However, a total of 16 solenoids and flashers (A side and C side) are driven.  By employing the use of an A/C relay, the System 11 MPU / driver board could be used for many more years without a &amp;quot;drastic&amp;quot; redesign.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Initially, the A/C relay was located on a small circuit board under the playfield for System 11/11A games.  Likewise, this A/C relay board did not have Molex header connections.  Wires were directly soldered to the circuit board.  Once the Auxiliary Power Driver Board was introduced with the System 11B platform (starting with Big Guns), the A/C relay was moved to this board for all subsequent System 11B/11C games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the example of the A/C relay shown in the pic on the left, the only way to discern that the A/C relay is the highlighted relay board is due to the wire colors soldered to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode Board for Multiplexed Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board. As Found.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diode board as found mounted to the bottom of the playfield (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Diode board from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diodes from diode board moved to aux power driver board starting with 11B games]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Motor Control Board (D-12045)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12045.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams &amp;quot;D-12045&amp;quot; as found in Cyclone, Jokerz!, Riverboat Gambler and Diner.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in 4 Williams Games&lt;br /&gt;
* Cyclone ... for the random award wheel&lt;br /&gt;
* Jokerz! ... for draw poker (the wheel has various cards pictured on it), &lt;br /&gt;
* Riverboat Gambler ... for the backbox roulette wheel and&lt;br /&gt;
* Diner ... for the clock hands count time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board uses a single U-opto to detect the wheel at the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; position. The MPU implements an &amp;quot;open loop control system&amp;quot; stepping the motor to the desired position while assuming that each step was successful. The game flags an issue with the PCB/motor assembly when the software thinks that the wheel should be at the home position but the opto beam hasn&#039;t been broken by the opto interrupter on the back of the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Coils===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Flippers.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Serial wound flipper coils as seen on earlier (pre F-14 Tomcat) System 11 / 11A games (pic from Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Placeholder for Parallel wound flipper coils as seen on later (post F-14 Tomcat) System 11A/B/C games (pic from xxxx)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Parallel_Wound_Flippers.jpg|right|300px|thumb|Wiring schematic for parallel wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later games (starting with F-14 Tomcat) used parallel wound coils, which have 2 diodes on them.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games use different parallel wound flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application.  Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |System 11 Flipper Coils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Color&lt;br /&gt;
!Strength&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11753 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weakest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11722 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weaker ||24-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11630 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Standard ||23-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11629 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Strongest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CoinDoorButtons.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Example System 11 Coin Door Buttons. The Advance button is missing it&#039;s black cap, and yes...that is a bit of soft drink spooge on the bracket.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The coin door buttons for system 9 and 11 games are shown at right. The function of the three buttons is (from left to right in the picture)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset High Score to Date&lt;br /&gt;
*Auto Up/Manual Down&lt;br /&gt;
*Advance&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Function of the Reset High Score to Date is self explanatory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Auto Up/Manual Down (AUMD) button is interpreted by the game software in multiple ways. Starting from attract mode, if the AUMD switch is up, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter audits and adjustments mode. If the AUMD switch is down, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter diagnostic mode. With the AUMD button in the up position during many of the diagnostic tests, the next step in the test will be automatically entered. For example, display test will display each digit on the display in turn. Coil test will advance through each coil. A particular step of the test may be paused on by pressing the AUMD button down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Advance switch moves the diagnostic, audit, or adjustment to the next step (or previous step if the AUMD button is down, except in diagnostic mode).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When in adjustments mode, the credit button is used to zero, turn off, or turn on features.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; One of the adjustment settings (adjustment 69 on High Speed for example) can be used to clear all of the game audits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of all diagnostic tests, the game will enter audits next, and then adjustments.  To exit diagnostics, audits, and / or adjustments, either advance until the last adjustment, or simply turn the machine off.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Transformer Power Selection Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 11 Power Selection Jumpers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys11 Transformer Power Selection.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Typical power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 115VAC (from Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11European220VSelection.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;European power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 220VAC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;1 - Black, 4 - White, 3/6 - Orange.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;Image courtesy of Chuck Sanderson&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Sporadic Problems in General - System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Headers.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Cracked Header Joints and Headers cut too deeply by factory on System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the previous Williams platforms, the System 9 platform is prone to cracked solder joints on the header pins.  Likewise, Williams&#039; board manufacturers had some tendencies to cut the header pins too short on the solder side.  By cutting the pins too short, the cuts partially go through the solder meniscus.  Cutting through the solder meniscus makes a solder joint less reliable, and it may prematurely fail over time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By having cracked solder joints and / or cut solder meniscus, sporadic issues may occur.  To resolve a cracked solder joint issue, the best approach is to completely remove the old solder, and add new solder to the joint.  Due to dirt and contaminants, simply adding solder to the existing joint is not sufficient.  If the header pins are cut too short, an attempt to remove the solder and new solder can be made.  However, in some instances the only resolution is to replace the header pin connector.  It is recommended to use a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-79.asp high quality replacement header].&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Rectifier Fuses====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Fuses_Added_Before_Lamp_Solenoid_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AdditionalFuses.jpg|right|thumb|400px|The updated schematic (from High Speed) showing placement of additional transformer secondary fusing for solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A design flaw carried over from the earlier systems was the lack of fuses between the transformer secondary and the bridge rectifiers used for solenoid and controlled lamp power.  In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game should blow. But that is not always the case. If the primary power fuse fails to blow, the wiring between the transformer secondary and the bridge becomes the fuse. The resulting melted wiring is not pretty!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For games before Big Guns, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp fuse installed (Williams opted to use an 8A normal blo, while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses). For games after Big Guns, an 8A normal blo fuse is already present between the transformer secondary and the controlled lamp bridge. As for the solenoid bridge, the addition of the auxiliary power driver board added fusing to protect this circuit. The 25V and 50V solenoid bridges were added to this board. Both bridges are fused with 4A slo-blo fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem in the Inkochnito Bridge Board.&lt;br /&gt;
Surf on over to http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate to the 12 position wafer connection====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-WMS-System11PSCN1Alternative.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The severely burned wafer connector at Data East equivalent of J1 here has been replaced with parts currently available. Pins 5 and 8 are not populated as those connections are not used.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 position &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector (CN1 or J1 for Williams games), can be replaced with currently available parts, shown at left. The original &amp;quot;wafers&amp;quot; are difficult to find and pricey.&lt;br /&gt;
Part number for the alternate connector is Molex 03-09-2121 or 03-09-2122. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply Missing 5v Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
If an aftermarket Rottendog WDP011C power supply is missing 5v, and other common causes of a missing voltage have been ruled out, then it&#039;s likely that the 5v regulator at U191 has failed. An available replacement is the Texas Instruments PTR08060 5v regulator from [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/PTR08060WVD Mouser] or [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/PTR08060WVD/1698955 Digikey].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply - Big Guns &amp;amp; Cyclone GI Comes On, Game Doesn&#039;t Boot====&lt;br /&gt;
If using the now obsolete Rottendog WDP011A power supply for Williams Cyclone or Big Guns, the +12v jumper may have to be moved from the bottom jumper location to the top. If a Rottendog equipped Big Guns or Cyclone turns on the GI lights, but the game doesn&#039;t boot, (only the 5v light on the CPU is lit), this is most likely the reason.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 MPU Jumpers===&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, jumpers on the MPU board do not require modification. The default configuration works for all System 11 game ROMs. However, there are 5 exceptions as follows...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W7 - Language Select Jumper&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
W7 is used only in games up to Cyclone. Games with 16 digit alphanumeric displays do not use this jumper. If installed, the game automatically reverts to English after losing the content of the RAM. If a different language is preferred, the &amp;quot;adjustments&amp;quot; menu provides an option to change the default language. Only a few early System 11 game ROMs contained multiple languages. For these games, if W7 is removed, the game generally defaults to German text. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games used language specific ROMs at U26 and U27.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W16 and W17 - Hitachi CPU select&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Hitachi6802.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A Hitachi processor, installed at U15, with W16 cut (lower right of pic)]]&lt;br /&gt;
The W16 jumper, on original System 11 boards, is in a different location and used for backwards compatibility with system 9 boards. There is no need to change it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 11A and later boards:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*W16 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U15, the CPU responsible for most game operation.&lt;br /&gt;
*W17 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U24, the CPU for the sound subsystem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These two jumpers are used to indicate the manufacturer of the 6802/6808 microprocessor since the clock circuit of Hitachi microprocessors is different from the clock circuit of other manufacturers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If U15 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W16. &lt;br /&gt;
If U24 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W17.&lt;br /&gt;
Otherwise, W16 and W17 should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Hitachi microprocessor can be used in System 9 and System 11 (nothing) MPU boards by simply lifting pin 38 out of the socket. Cutting the pin is not recommended since there may be need for that IC in another board. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W5/W6 and W18/W19 - RAM Type Select&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C MPU board provide the ability to use either a 6116 or a 6264 RAM at locations U25 and U23 (sound subsystem).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U25&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W5, remove W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W5, install W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U23&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W19, remove W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W19, install W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
====Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSClockandE.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|A scope trace of the 4Mhz crystal input at pin 39 of the microprocessor (blue), and &amp;quot;E&amp;quot;, the external clock at pin 37 of the microprocessor (amber)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Following is an ordered, disciplined process for reanimating a dead MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Inspect for Alkaline Corrosion. Abate all corrosion properly before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test for valid 5/12/-12VDC power to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify correct jumpers are installed (or not installed) for Hitachi 6802/8 processors. More info [[Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11_MPU_Jumpers|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
#Note and address any error messages displayed upon boot (if any).&lt;br /&gt;
#Validate the ROM images.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test socketed chips in a known working board or chip tester.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (4Mhz) clock signal to the 6802/8 processor at pin 39.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper (1Mhz) external clock signal at pin 37 of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the reset circuitry is providing a valid &amp;quot;low and then high&amp;quot; reset signal at pin 40 of the 6802/8. Note that replacing the original reset circuitry with a modern reset generator will lengthen the time until the signal transitions to high. This is normal, and helps with debugging as the signal can be seen much easier.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to test for activity on the IRQ (pin 4), Address and Data pins of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to ensure that the bus buffer chips at U11 and U13 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U16 (data) are correctly mirroring the input signals to the output signals.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Leon&#039;s test ROM to ensure that each 6821 PIA is receiving the correct chip select and data to produce valid outputs at pins 2 through 17. More information regarding use of Leon&#039;s test ROM can be found [[Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Normal Game Boot Behavior====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Boot Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for System 9 is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the diagnostic display on the MPU. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will light during boot up, and continue to stay lit, as long as the game is on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Diagnostic7Segment.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 11(nothing) MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with a 7-segment display on the MPU is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the display. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; does not go away. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will continue to be displayed under normal boot conditions.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DiagnosticLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs as found on a System 11A, 11B, and 11C MPUs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with 3 LEDs instead of the 7-segment display on the MPU is for the &amp;quot;+5 VDC&amp;quot; LED to light first and stay on, then a split second later, the blanking LED will light and stay on. At the same time that the blanking LED lights, the diagnostic LED will begin to blink at a fairly rapid pace with a 50% duty cycle (equal durations of the LED being on then off). The blanking LED will continue to remain on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LEDDiagnosticsIn7SegmentGame.jpg|300px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs driven by game software expecting a 7-segment display as in High Speed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 11 MPU with 3 LEDs is installed in a game whose original board contained the 7-segment LED diagnostic display first introduced with the System 7 board set, the status of the 3 LEDs won&#039;t help much. The game software is attempting to display a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; (assuming your game boots correctly) on a 7-segment display. Since the board contains just the three LEDs, the MPU circuitry merely lights all three LEDs as shown in the picture at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====MPU Boot Error Codes====&lt;br /&gt;
MPUs used in System 9 and 11(nothing) games display a code on a 7-segment display if an error is detected during boot. MPUs used in System 11A, 11B, and 11C games use the Diagnostic LED to blink a &amp;quot;codes&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 9 MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U18 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6808 processor&#039;s ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Game ROM 2 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal stuck, coin door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or the U18 CMOS RAM faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;System failure. Occasionally, the following components can contribute to this problem: U21 (4MhZ crystal), components in the IRQ circuit, broken leads or failed C9 (22uF) in the reset section, or loosely seated ICs on the CPU board. Note that boot code &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; is the hardware default and characteristic of the CPU &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; signal not complying with the proper low-to-high spec at pin 40.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game is locked up, there may be a bad power supply.  The 5 volt logic supply is the first one to check.  Then, check the 12 volt supply, which is used to reset the CPU chip.  Test for both DC (correct voltages) and AC (too much ripple on the DC circuit).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11(nothing) Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 11(nothing) MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;These error codes assume that either High Speed, Grand Lizard, or Road Kings ROMs are installed since those were the only three games shipped with this version of the MPU board containing the 7-segment display. Later System 11 MPU boards replace the 7-segment display with 3 discrete LEDs that indicate 5V presence, diagnostics execution, and blanking status. While the System 11(nothing) MPU board works fine with other/later game ROMs, the 7-segment display with later game ROMs doesn&#039;t provide useful information other than some confidence that the software is running correctly. With later game ROMs installed and the MPU booting properly, the 7-segment display will appear to alternate rapidly between &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; (as fast as the &amp;quot;Diagnostics&amp;quot; LED would be flashing in a System 11A through 11C MPU board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U25 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6802 processors ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;, or the coin door is closed, or the memory protect circuit is faulty, or the CMOS RAM at U25 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;General system failure. Check the 5VDC power supply as well as the integrity of game ROM 2 at U26.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A zero displayed during Memory Chip Test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is NOT functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11A, 11B, 11C games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the number of blinks of the DIAGNOSTIC LED, the error message that might be displayed, and the explanation (Source: Williams System 11A game manual. with embellishment).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating an MPU indicating a U10 failure (8 blinks) can be found [https://youtu.be/Rhho5nO3YLU &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Message&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;no message || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U25 RAM FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;The RAM at U25 could not be used properly. This means that the RAM failed a read/write test at power up.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;The game will remain in the current state and no other tests are performed until the game is turned off, then back on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;MEM. PROT. FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;This message means that either:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;a) the Coin Door may be shut,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;b) the Memory Protect Switch may be stuck in the ON position,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;c) the memory protect logic is protecting the memory, or&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;d) a U25 RAM failure is occurring.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U51 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U51 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U38 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U38 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U41 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U41 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U42 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U42 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U54 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U54 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U10 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U10 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;IRQ FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The interrupt request line is not working normally. It may be missing, stuck, too fast, or too slow.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 failed checksum (test 11 is skipped).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 failed checksum.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of the above failures (except #9) may mean that the device has failed but it may also mean that the 6802 microprocessor is unable to communicate adequately or properly with the device. For example, if the CPU is attempting to checksum the game ROM at U27, but one of the 8 data lines leading to U27 has been severed, the wrong data will be received by the microprocessor and the checksum test will fail even though the ROM is perfectly fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An U25 RAM failure can occur without actual 6116 RAM failure.  One of the most common reasons why U25 RAM failure occurs is lack of power to the RAM chip.  If the D1, 1N5817, diode shorts open, logic power will no longer have a pathway to the U25 RAM.  However, if the D2, 1N4148, blocking diode is fine, and the battery holder and batteries are fine, power will be retained by the U25 RAM.  Although, the batteries will die prematurely if D1 has shorted.  Another reason why U25 is no longer powered by the +5VDC logic power is due to a severed trace either caused by a blunt object or battery corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An interesting side effect to the U25 RAM failure blink code is that the blanking LED will blink 10 times after the single blink from the diagnostic LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== U51, U27, and possibly other boot message causes =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SocketWornOut.jpg|300px|thumb|left|This OEM System 11 MPU socket is tired, worn out, and no longer provided solid contact with the ROM chip legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 MPUs booting with error codes, blinks, or messages on the display may need new sockets for the game ROM(s). In the picture at left, it&#039;s easy to see light right through the socket holes (note the brown background vs the white background). The metal female connections have fatigued over time and are no longer providing a solid mechanical connection to the ROM chip legs. Removal and replacement with a quality dual wipe or machine pin socket is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This situation can cause a wide variety of boot problems including complete failure to boot, &amp;quot;U27 ROM failure&amp;quot; message, &amp;quot;U51 failure&amp;quot; message, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, the root cause could be due to many other reasons. The fairly complicated chip select logic outlined on sheet 4 of the System 11 MPU schematics could be the cause. The best way to attack the problem is with a logic probe, ensuring that the various chip select gates are yielding the intended logic states.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Five &amp;quot;Knocks&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes when turning a system 11 game on, the knocker will fire 5 times, causing most folks to wonder, &amp;quot;what the hey&amp;quot;?. All that knocking is designed to call the operators attention to a potential switch issue. Like the &amp;quot;credit dot&amp;quot; in later Williams games, including System 11 games that support the dot character, these 5 knocks mean that the game hasn&#039;t detected the closure of a particular switch (or switches) in a certain number of games. A message will be displayed indicating which switch or switches to examine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Usually, this is an indication of a failed switch. Most switches get closed during the normal course of game play, long before the game&#039;s software counts up to the limit of &amp;quot;games played without closing each switch&amp;quot; and issues this indication. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this issue, use the coin door diagnostic panel buttons to enter switch edge test. Manually close the switch. If a switch closure is indicated, either normal game play failed to close the switch (you&#039;re not a very good player), or the switch is dirty. Closing a switch with your finger is different than closing a switch with a ball. Your finger generally pushes more firmly on the switch contacts. Clean the switch by dragging an old business card or piece of paper between the switch contacts while pinching the switch blades together with your fingers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Caution: do not attempt to adjust switches with anything metal while the game is turned on. You will eventually short coil or lamp power to the switch matrix, damaging the MPUs switch matrix circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If closing the switch manually doesn&#039;t register in switch edge test, see the &amp;quot;switch problems&amp;quot; section of this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AdjustFailureMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door closed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message seen in the picture at left occurs when the game software can&#039;t make sense of the information contained in the battery backed RAM at U25. This could be because the RAM has failed, but this is unlikely. The vastly more common reason is that battery backup power has been interrupted to the games battery backed RAM because either the batteries are not installed, dead, or dying. Hopefully, they haven&#039;t made a mess of the board by leaking alkaline. See below. &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; is displayed under these conditions when the coin door is closed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that on some games (not certain if all) which use two 16-digit alpha-numeric displays, the message displayed will actually read &amp;quot;AJSTMENT FAILURE&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FactorySettingMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door open.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the coin door is open under these conditions, the message &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; is displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Testing for Battery Backup Power at the RAM (U25)=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U25_Ram_Test.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Game off. Meter set to DC volts. Black lead on game ground. Red lead on RAM pin 24.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing for power at the RAM chip is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Set DMM to DC volts (or on less than 20V if not using an auto-ranging meter)&lt;br /&gt;
#Game off&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead on backbox ground&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on pin 24 of the RAM as shown at right&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three AA batteries normally provide 4.5VDC. If you are reading some voltage, but not quite 4.5VDC, the batteries need to be replaced...and don&#039;t forget to move them off of the MPU board while you are at it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other causes for low or no battery backup power to the RAM chip are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode D2. This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC source from &amp;quot;charging&amp;quot; the alkaline batteries. D2 is a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode D1. This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC battery backup power from powering parts of the board other than the RAM chip. In this case, the batteries will deplete rapidly. D1 is a 1N5817.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 9 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U41, U9, the game ROMs, and one or more 6821s.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 11 MPUs cross-connected, the damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U11, U31, U34, U35, U36, U44, the game ROMs, and possibly the 6821s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating the repair of a System 9 MPU that was damaged in this way can be found [https://youtu.be/uoYKRJFnm-I &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:PinSideLogo.png]] An excellent disciplined approach to repairing a System 11 MPU damaged in this way can be found on PinSide [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-fried-my-system-11-cpu-board-now-what#post-7564730 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 9 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Yikes! What a pity...]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3 AA batteries used to retain settings across power cycles to a location far away from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; in the credit/match display is seen when the game is turned on, the game is in audit mode versus attract mode.  Below are several reasons why the game has defaulted to audit mode.&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing.&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the U18 (5517-2) RAM. Check pin 24 of U18 for approximately 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v with the power off.  Lack of battery backup power could also be due to an open D3 (1N4148) blocking diode.  This diode is used to keep the CPU&#039;s logic power from charging the batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking diode D2 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There are other problems, such as a faulty 5517-2 RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries will not allow a game to boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on.  It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores.  However, a System 9 game will boot, and is still playable with the lack of batteries.  To complete the boot sequence into attract mode, open the coin door, switch the game off, and then quickly back on. The game should leave audit mode, and go into attract mode.  Credits would need to be added from the coin door, and if necessary, settings would need to be changed before starting a game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea.  You can easily remove the battery pack from the board.  Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement.  If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position.  Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead.  This will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D3 on the MPU board fails.  Keep in mind that adding a secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory by .5 to .7 volts (the typical voltage drop across a diode) if D3 is still good.  Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 remote bat.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 9 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board.  All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; are somewhat common.  Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save you some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 D2 D3.JPG|300px|thumb|left|D2 and D3 Diodes Highlighted on a Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D3 blocking diode.  An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective.  Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack.  This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on.  Alkaline batteries do not like being charged.  They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly).  In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged.  Testing the D3 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out.  When in doubt, replace the D3 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack.  Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5517-2 RAM memory, if D3 is still good.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 11 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RemoteBatteryHolderSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A remote battery holder installed on a System 11 MPU. The purple wire is positive.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Installing NVRAM instead of batteries ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM DIP.JPG|300px|thumb|left|RAMTRON DIP NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Cyclone)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM SMT Adapter.JPG|300px|thumb|right|SMT adapted NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Transporter The Rescue)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like most other pinball mpu boards, the battery-backed RAM can be replaced with a non-volatile memory RAM (NVRAM).  Replacement RAM that can replace existing 6116 or a 6264 SRAM will be needed.  DIP versions are becoming scarce, but there are other solutions available that use surface mount equivalents on a small circuit board that plug into the RAM&#039;s socket.  Unfortunately, U25 is soldered in on System 11 boards from the factory, and would need to be removed to replace with NVRAM.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If installing any version of 6264 NVRAM on an 11B or 11C board, jumper W5 (located just above U25) needs to be moved to jumper W6.  This jumper has a completely different purpose on 11 and 11A boards.  6116 NVRAM will have to be used with 11 and 11A boards, or else modification with wire wrap will be necessary.  If 6116 NVRAM is used on 11B or 11C boards, jumper W5 does not have to be chaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several vendors who sell surface mount NVRAM on an adapter board.  The adapter in the picture shown on the right was purchased from [http://www.pinitech.com/products/cat_memory.php Pinitech].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
It has been documented that some variants of DIP NVRAM may need to have diode D1 replaced with a jumper or jumped around the diode, in order for the game to boot successfully.  D1, a 1n5817 diode, has a very low forward voltage drop (about 0.2 volts) vs. the normal 0.4-0.6 volts most other diodes have.  If replacing U25 with the memory RAM, some memory RAM will not unlock and allow writes until the voltage is 4.8 volts or so.  The 1n5817 D1 diode is just enough to prevent some memory RAMs from allowing writes.  To solve this, solder a jumper wire around the D1 terminals, or remove D1 entirely and replace with a jumper.  Surface mounted NVRAM on an adapter board is not susceptible to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing a Memory Capacitor Instead of Batteries====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11B Mem Cap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Memory Capacitor Added to a System 11B MPU Board.  The circled areas show an added jumper for the cap&#039;s negative terminal to ground and a jumper added in place of the blocking diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SuperCapInstalled.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method of adding a SuperCap. This style cap has two leads on the bottom of the cap. The negative lead of the cap is connected to battery ground via the red jumper wire. The necessary jumper across D2 is circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor. In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is greatly reduced compared to a rechargeable battery. When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor. When the game is turned off (this is where the memory cap slightly differs than a rechargeable battery) the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time. Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again. If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a memory cap, two things will have to be done. It will be necessary to add a jumper to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground or positive lead to the non-banded side of the blocking diode. The picture to the left shows a jumper added to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 11B MPU board. Installation on System 11, 11A, and 11C boards is similarly performed.  Secondly, the 1N4148 blocking diode (D2) will have to be removed, and replaced by current limiting resistor.  A value from 100 ohms to 270 ohms will work.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, it is a good idea to leave the game on for 15-20 minutes to allow the game to initially charge the capacitor to full capacity. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes to allow the cap to recharge is a good idea.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Both photos show a jumper installed in place of the blocking diode.  It is recommended that a limiting resistor be installed instead.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:  It has been determined that memory capacitors are not the most effective way to retain memory on System 11 games, if the game will not be turned on for long lengths of time.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MPUDelicateTraces.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of the delicate traces under the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. Luckily, these cleaned up nicely.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CorrosionCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Closeup of traces under the battery holder. Corrosion (darkened spots) has invaded beneath the solder mask (green coating) and is beginning to eat away at the copper traces.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen at left, the traces on System 11 MPUs are very small. Not much alkaline damage is required to eat completely through these delicate traces. Unfortunately, there are a great many of these traces under the battery holder, and in a very vulnerable position to alkaline damage. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to the left of the battery holder is the reset section of the MPU. That section is, on balance, much easier to repair than the delicate traces under the battery holder and at the 6821 PIAs immediately under the battery holder.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The advice often dispensed to deal with alkaline corrosion is to scrub the affected area with an acid such as vinegar, rinse with water, and then rinse again with isopropyl alcohol. This might work for light surface alkaline corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, often the alkaline will eat into traces beneath the solder mask or beneath chips. This dictates desoldering affected chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces. The alkaline interacts chemically with the solder making it very difficult to heat. Desoldering from the (presumably undamaged) back side of the board is much easier. Scuffing the alkaline damaged solder with a wire brush to remove the surface layer of damage is also helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once all damaged components have been removed, sand the affected area carefully with your choice of fine grit sandpaper. 220 grit works well. The objective is to remove the corrosion completely without destroying additional traces. All corroded areas must be addressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, rebuild traces as necessary. Corrosion tends to sever traces where the trace meets the solder pad of a part. Strong magnification and bright lighting helps. Either tin or conformal coat the bare copper and then reinstall parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11AlkalineDamage-1-Annotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Another closeup of the delicate traces near the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. These traces are too far gone for a repair to be considered reliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingSRCPartsSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A 9 pin, 4.7K bussed resistor network replacing SRC5. Pin 1 is on the right]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AlkalineCorrosion.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of alkaline damage that has crept under the solder mask (the darker traces). Eventually, this corrosion will eat completely through the trace, making the board unreliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TypicalSRC.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The OEM resistor/capacitor network.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the top of the board are a few &amp;quot;SRC&amp;quot; parts. These are 10 pin resistor/capacitor SIPs. The OEM part connects each driver line to a 4.7Kohm pull-up resistor connected to 5VDC. This guarantees that the signal is held at logic high until the PIA grounds the signal. The OEM part also connects each driver line to a high frequency noise filter capacitor (470pf). These parts are no longer available. A completely acceptable substitute is a 9 pin bussed, 8 resistor network (4.7Kohms) at positions SRC1 - SRC5 and SRC7 - SRC9. This part provides the pull-up resistor. In practice, the high frequency filter capacitor does not impact the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The part is installed as shown in the picture at right, with pin 1 of the part connected to the right side which is labeled pin 1 in the board silkscreen. A 10 pin (9 bussed resistors) part may be used ONLY if the left most pin is clipped and not connected to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An image of the original OEM part is shown at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another example of alkaline corrosion can be seen in the picture on the left. This damage can be cleaned up, retinned, and the board placed back in service.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blanking Signal Stuck Low or Pulsing====&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking signal is a failsafe interlock with critical game functions including the display, sounds, lamp matrix, and solenoids. It prevents operation of each of these game features to protect the game circuitry in the event of a system failure. For instance, if the MPU is not running, and the lamp matrix is stuck on at a particular row or column, those parts will heat up quickly, and at the very least damage that circuitry. Coils remaining locked on could cause even larger damage to the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the game functions listed above require the blanking signal to be high (&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not pulsing but always high&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;) to operate. As an example, the solenoid driver circuitry logically &amp;quot;ands&amp;quot; the blanking signal with solenoid commands using a 7408 AND gates (at U17, U18, U19 and U20).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of blanking, with the blanking LED never lighting, means that the game program is not running. It either never started running, locked up due to an invalid ROM image or a problem with the data, address, control, or chip select signals on the MPU, or detected a problem with the RAM memory.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Blanking.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|C58, a timing element for the 555 timer. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In rare cases, C58 can fail. C58 holds the input to the 555 timer high between pulses from the display circuitry. This causes the blanking signal to pulse. A pulsing blanking signal can manifest in missing digits on the display, some lamp columns not being turned on, and possibly other issues. C58 is a 1uf tantalum capacitor. If the blanking signal is pulsing, replace C58.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Blanking.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 11 CPU Blanking Circuit. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will send data to the display 6821 PIA at U51 (pin 4) at regular intervals (every 2.8 msec).&lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 to pulse high periodically. The DE schematics call this signal &amp;quot;TG&amp;quot;. It is merely called &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; in WMS schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at U36, in at pin 13, out at pin 12.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C57 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q50 and to pin 2 of the 555 timer at 1C.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 555 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at U51, the output of the 555 timer at pin 3 (and 7) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the longer, more detailed explanation, [http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb75.pdf Stern service bulletin 75] provides the &amp;quot;Blanking Circuit Theory of Operation&amp;quot; for Data East MPUs which are identical to Williams MPUs with respect to the blanking circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When operating properly, the pins of the 555 timer will behave as follows (pin number, logic signal)&lt;br /&gt;
#low&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing at the same rate as the 6821 PIA at U51, pin 4&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#pulsing very rapidly. i.e. &amp;quot;ticking&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
#high&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair Leon&#039;s System 11 test ROM] runs correctly on an MPU, this guarantees that all data, address, and control signals are working correctly. If blanking doesn&#039;t go high with a game ROM installed, ensure that the ROM images are valid. This is by far the most probable once Leon&#039;s ROM runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (System 9)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetGenerator.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 9 MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9ResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator on a System 9 MPU.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The three electrolytic caps (all 100uf/25V), two inductors, and 5 ceramic caps (all .001uf labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;) are part of the 5, 12, and -12 volt power filtering circuitry. The D2, 1N5817 diode isn&#039;t needed if an NVRAM is used instead of a SuperCap or remote batteries.  However, a jumper must be installed at D2 to power the NVRAM.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset section of the System 9 MPU is almost identical to the System 11 reset section. As such, a modification similar to the mod outlined below can be performed on System 9 boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove resistors R6, R8, and R12. Really, all but R6 can simply be clipped off. One through hole at R6 will be used later.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove transistor Q4&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a reset generator (MCP120-460GI/TO) where Q4 was removed. Orient the reset generator the same way that Q4 was oriented, matching the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper from the upper leg of where R6 was removed (oriented as shown in the picture, upside-down from game installation) to the via that is about 1/4&amp;quot; southeast of the R6 connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it. Most of the rest of the reset circuit can be removed, but this provides no advantage since those parts are already &amp;quot;out of circuit&amp;quot; with this modification.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary to power the sound amplifier on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetMinimum.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Another image of the bare minimum part requirement when using a modern reset generator. The three electrolytic caps are all 100uf/25V. Note that the right most electrolytic cap is oriented backwards from the other two. The 5 ceramic caps are all .001uf and are labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;. These are sometimes called 1000pf ceramic caps.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MCP130 reset generator variant, with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used too, but it isn&#039;t necessary. This is because the resistor at R170 provides an external 4.7K ohm pull up for the /RESET line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the reset generator has a longer reset delay than the OEM circuitry. At boot, the 7 segment LED will seem to show a &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; for a fraction of a second. It will turn to a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and remain &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; after that, assuming that the board is booting properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor1.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumpers&amp;quot; where inductors are normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor2.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; where an inductor is normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some System 9 MPUs shipped from the factory with zero ohm jumpers installed instead of inductors (see images left and right). When repairing alkaline corrosion, it&#039;s completely acceptable to replaced damaged inductors with jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (All versions of System 11)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Section.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Reset section of a System 11A MPU board.  Components to be removed are circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Gen.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Reset section with reset generator and jumper installed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on all versions of the System 11 MPU boards. A reset generator can be installed. Since the reset section of all versions of the System 11 MPU board is susceptible to battery damage, this is a very easy, and minimalistic way to rebuild the reset section. To do so, 4 components will need to be removed and a jumper installed. The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Q39 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from top to bottom as installed on the board) R58, R60 (these two are just below the Q39 transistor), and R69.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO (also used on Data East MPUs) where Q39 was. Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q39 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install in the bottom through hole). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the right pad of R58 and the right pad of R60 (both resistors have been removed).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary for the sound section of the MPU on most boards, except the 11B and 11C variants.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired. Please consult the System 11 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics.  The MCP130 variant with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used, but it is not necessary.  This is because resistor network SR19 pin 3 is an external 4.7K ohm resistor used to pull up the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a prime example of where a reset generator is very handy.  The amount of components replaced are reduced from 15-20 to 1.  Note that because this was an 11B board (also true for 11C boards), there is no sound amplifier on the board.  Hence, the +12v is not needed at all, and none of the parts related to the +12v were repopulated.  If this were an 11(nothing) or an 11A board, the +12V inductor (can be replaced by a simple jumper), the W10/W11 jumper, and associated capacitors (C27, C28, and C29) would need to be populated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=330px heights=210px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;A Prime Candidate for Using a Reset Generator (11B MPU Board Shown)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot.JPG|Battery alkali leeched into the reset section.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot WIP.JPG|Components removed, affected traces and pads cleaned and treated.&lt;br /&gt;
File:S11ResetSectionAnnotated.png|Components repopulated. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MinumunResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Another image showing &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;the single jumper (string tied to it) and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator (System 11B/11C). System 11 (nothing) and System 11A must retain a few more parts.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the above gallery pics, note that some components in the reset area had to be reinstalled.  These components are in the area of the reset section, but are not part of the reset circuitry. They are actually related to the game RAM, enabling CMOS power to reach the RAM and to control pin 18, the chip enable pin of the RAM. Without these parts, the MPU will not successfully boot.  Instead, there will be a &#039;&#039;&#039;single blink code&#039;&#039;&#039; from the diagnostic LED indicating a U25 RAM error (a &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; will display on boards with the 7-segment display).  If the game display is connected to the MPU board, a &amp;quot;U25 RAM ERROR&amp;quot; message will be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
*D1 - 1N5817 diode &lt;br /&gt;
*Q40 - 2N3904 transistor (a 2N4401 was used in this case)&lt;br /&gt;
*R64 - 1 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R65 - 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R68 - 4.7 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And, once again, for a System 11 (nothing) or a System 11A MPU, both of which have onboard amplifiers in the upper left corner and require 12VDC power, be sure to retain or replace the following parts:&lt;br /&gt;
*L2 - 4.7uH inductor (or a simple jumper)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C28 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 100uf/25V electrolytic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Connecting a logic probe to the MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Logic Probe connected to System 9 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Logic Probe.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Logic Probe connected to System 11 (11A) MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, +5v and ground can always be acquired at any one of the bypass capacitors, which are located at most every chip, and simply labeled as &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 comp PSU.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 9 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 comp PSU.JPG|300px|right|thumb|System 11 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 1J17 power connection is essentially the same for System 9 and all variants of the System 11 MPU boards.  The ground connection can be attached to pins 1 through 3.  The +5vdc connection can be connected to pins 4 through 6.  -12vdc gets connected to pin 8 and +12vdc gets connected to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 games are far more tolerant of low line conditions vs. the newer WPC games.  Some things to check if the game is resetting are the usual culprits for this type of thing:  connectors, filter capacitors, slam switches, bad chip sockets, etc.  It is good preventative maintenance to replace the +5 volt filter capacitor on the power supply with a new one; most of these are 25+ years old and might be getting to the point of wearing out.  Certainly replace them if you are getting resetting on your system 11 game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11 games give an indication that they&#039;ve been slam tilted; if you&#039;re getting a &amp;quot;game reset&amp;quot; but you get a noise and/or a message on the displays beforehand, it is probably a slam switch issue vs. a true reset issue.  Check all the slam switches in the game (usually the coin door is the main one, and also the ball roll tilt if present).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
====A/C solenoid/flasher problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AuxDriverBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board, showing the A/C select relay, the clear &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; at the top, center of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is a dual &amp;quot;make/break&amp;quot; (DPDT, double pole, double throw) relay that supplies power to either the &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; or the &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. It is located on the Auxiliary Power/Driver Board for games that use the board which was introduced with Big Guns and used on all subsequent games. For games prior to Big Guns, like F-14 Tomcat, the relay is probably located under the playfield. There are exceptions. High Speed and Grand Lizard do not use an A/C select relay. Road Kings uses one for a handful of solenoids, but this game did not follow the 1-8 solenoid convention which games after it adopted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple ways that the A-Side / C-Side (A/C after this) relay circuit can fail. If the driving transistor (Q8 for Big Guns and later, Q7 for games prior to Big Guns, and located on the MPU board) shorts, the A/C select relay will be constantly energized, resulting in flashers firing when coils should have fired. If the driving transistor never switches the A/C select relay on, coils will fire when flashers should have fired.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing this behavior is easy. Use the diagnostic buttons to select solenoid test, and watch carefully to see what fires. The display will show the coil/flasher under test. The first 8 drive circuits tested will have an &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. That is, circuits will fire in the following order: 1A, 1C, 2A, 2C, ... 8A, 8C. If the A/C select circuit is not working correctly, the same coil or flasher will fire twice in a row, once for the A side and once for the C side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is generally solenoid 12 in coil test. Placing the &amp;quot;Auto Advance&amp;quot; button in the up position, to repeatedly test solenoid 12, should allow you to hear the A/C relay clicking on and off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of &amp;quot;one side&amp;quot; of the A/C select circuit is not working, the fuse supplying the voltage to that side may be blown. F2 (DC side of BR1) and F8 (AC side of BR1) fuse the 25V circuit. F4 (DC side of BR2) and F7 (AC side of BR2) fuse the 50V circuit. Another suspect is fractured solder joints on the A/C select relay. Reflowing these solder joints is simple. The A/C select relay is relatively heavy and it&#039;s weight puts stress on the solder connection at the printed circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-OKOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing normal, working switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is rare for the A/C relay itself to fail. A possible source of trouble are the miniature contacts on the relay wipers. These are high power, high current, contacts that can be filed with a small point file to restore proper current carrying capacity.  Under no circumstances should you ever use contact cleaner on these contacts, as this could cause a spark or fire to occur. Be careful to not mangle the contact wipers in an attempt to adjust them. Adjust with care. 99% of the time, these switch contacts need no maintenance at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11A-CRelay-WeldedOnBothSides.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a disassembled A/C select relay with both the A Side and the C Side connected at the center contact pads. It&#039;s rare for one of these relays to &amp;quot;weld&amp;quot; itself to both sides. In this particular instance, the game would fire both the A-side coil and the C-side flasher at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other failure points are the connectors and headers connecting the aux driver board to the main cpu/driver board. Fractured solder joints can affect the proper operation of the relay. It is good practice to replace, or at minimum, reflow the header pins, and to replace connector pins in their housings with new pins. System 11 games use .156 connectors in most locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And finally, the solder joints holding the A/C select relay to the board may fracture and cause loss of connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On a related note, if the flashers never illuminate during game or test, but the A/C relay physically engages, likewise the flasher lamps are good, and power is present at the lamps, suspect potential failure of the U1 (4N25) U1 optocoupler on the interconnect board.  Starting with Jokerz, the U1 optocoupler on the D-12313 interconnect board was used to identify whether or not the A/C relay has engaged.  Under normal operation, if the A/C relay has engaged, the voltage on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; side passes back to the optocoupler.  In turn, there is a switch on the switch matrix, typically switch 2, which receives the signal from the U1 optocoupler.  Note that U1 is on some previous games like Taxi, but it was not used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems with RottenDog MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPUDIPSwitches.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left| RottenDog MPU with a red switch bank for selecting either Williams or Data East special solenoid implementation.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RDMPU004DIPSwitches.jpg ‎‎|300px|thumb|right| These DIP switches on this RottenDog are configured for a Williams game, even though they do not seem to match the PCB silkscreen.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU board can accommodate both Williams and Data East special solenoid implementations. This is accomplished with an 8 DIP switch bank, pictured at left. If set to the wrong game system, special solenoids will not operate properly in your game. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The DIP switch positions should be set the opposite of what you might think, based on the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special solenoid problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpecialSolenoidCircuit.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A typical special solenoid circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Special solenoids on system 11 games are similar to the earlier variants used on all previous Williams&#039; board sets.  During gameplay/test modes the primary switches on the special solenoids (usually the pops and slings) are active, allowing actuation of those switches to fire the solenoids.  This is done by grounding an input to a 7402 logic chip which in turn pre-drives a 2n4401 pre-driver transistor which drives a TIP122 Darlington transistor to fire the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During solenoid test mode only, the secondary path to the 7402 is utilized instead to fire the solenoids.  Since there are 2 paths to fire the solenoids, it is possible for a special solenoid to work in game/test mode, but fail the solenoid test due to a failed PIA or 7402 chip, and vice-versa.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the primary switch associated with the special solenoid device. Therefore, System 9 special solenoids are not activated during solenoid test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a special solenoid actuation switch locks on, the solenoid itself will lock on as well, (hopefully) blowing the associated fuse before blowing all or some of the TIP122/2N4401/7402 circuit.  An inline fuse holder can be added to all special solenoids with a 1 amp fuse installed to help prevent this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11B games do not use the special solenoids in the same way. Special solenoid switches were added to the switch matrix instead, keeping all or some of the solenoid pulses under CPU control. It is easy to identify whether a game has CPU controlled special solenoids by inspecting the activation switches on the special solenoids. If there are both a primary and a secondary switch installed, the game operates via the direct-fire special solenoid setup.  (Note that a secondary switch in the case of slingshots does not mean the normal 2nd switch all slings shots employ. Rather, it refers to a switch that only activates when the sling activates. It is installed near the pivot point of the sling arm underneath the playfield.) Also the secondary switches go to CPU connector J18. If nothing is connected to J18, then the special solenoids are CPU controlled. In games like BK2K only the kickers are CPU controlled while the pop bumpers still use the secondary switches.    There was no rhyme or reason (no definitive start / stop point) which System 11B titles used special solenoid secondary switches, and which did not. Please refer to the game list [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11B above] to determine which did / did not use the secondary switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|300px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) that &amp;quot;protect&amp;quot; the board logic from shorts between the sense switches and coil power. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The usual cause of special solenoid circuit failure is a stuck switch that locks the associated solenoid on, causing the TIP-122 transistor to fail and the coil to get so hot that the winding insulation melts (causing a reduction of coil resistance, eventually approaching zero ohms). The zener diode (pictured, left) in the circuit may fail shorted as well. This will cause the associated coil to lock on even after repair of the other damaged circuitry since the zener is connected directly to ground. The shorted zener diode causes the 7402/2N4401/TIP122 circuit to react identically to a switch closure. Gack!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;If your game doesn&#039;t use the special solenoid switch inputs as in most System 11B games and all System 11C games (i.e. no connection at 1J18), then these zeners serve no purpose and may be clipped off. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Unusual Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlwindPinchedWire.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A pinched wire (white/brown) that causes a tough to find solenoid problem.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 method of securing boards sometimes causes odd problems. The securing screws must be removed completely to remove a board vs the improved WPC method of sliding the board off the screw head via a &amp;quot;keyhole&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When securing the boards, it&#039;s important to ensure that wires aren&#039;t pinched behind the board. If a wire is pinched severely enough, the insulation will be displaced and the conductor will contact the backbox ground plain, which can cause a wide range of odd problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wire in the picture shown at left happened to be the ground path for coil #1, the outhole kicker on Whirlwind. When the game was powered on, the coil would lock on until the blanking circuit became active. Pressing the diagnostic/audit coin door button would also result in the coil locking on. This was actually the A/C relay flipping to the coil side for diagnostics and providing power to the coils. The outhole coil had a path to ground via the pinched wire and would lock on. A game could be started and the coil appeared to work properly until &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;any&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the 1 through 8 coils were activated (when the A/C select relay would energize again). At that time, the outhole coil would fire at the same time as the other 1 through 8 coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This one was a real head scratcher!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps wired in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 flash lamps are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
This may seem painfully obvious, but with any lamp problem, where all lamps in the same circuit are not lighting, first see if the associated fuse is blown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Illumination Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
As a rule of thumb, general illumination (GI) lamp issues with System 9 or 11 games are dependent on the era of the game.  The reason for this is GI circuits passed through different boards over the years.  And, the majority of GI issues are typically due to the circuit board.  Not so much the circuit board itself, but the junction between the header pin connections on the circuit board and the connector pins located in the female housings.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is extremely common for the header pins and / or the female connections related to the GI circuit to heat up, and in worse cases char or burn.  When some of these games were in operation earning money, they could potentially be turned on for 8, 12, or more hours every day.  If the connectors were compromised at some time in the game&#039;s life, the issues become compounded.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The problem is a vicious cycle.  If either side of the connector heats up, it creates more resistance.  If it creates more resistance, it draws more current.  If it draws more current, it heats up.  This cycle continues until the connector blows the circuit&#039;s fuse (provided the proper fuse is installed and not by-passed), the connectors are so bad that the circuit no longer has continuity, or the connectors are replaced with new ones.  It is recommended that both the male header pin connector be replaced and the associated pin connectors which connect to it.  Replacing only one side of the connector is only asking for repeat problems down the road.  Header pins rated for 7 amp are highly recommended as a replacement.  If the 7A headers are used, the likelihood of the connector failing due to heat is greatly reduced.  Likewise, the use of Molex Trifurcon connector pins are recommended.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another prevalent problem is the failure of the relay board or the relay board connectors. GI relay boards are typically found under the playfield and on the back of the lamp insert panel. The job of the relay board is to switch the GI lamps on/off for special lighting effects. Over many years of operation, the solder joints on the connector may fracture.  Although it is more common for the male/female connectors to burn badly. Repinning these connectors, as is typical for GI connectors, is the prescribed fix.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Space Shuttle to Fire!=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 GI Circuits.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Typical System 9/11 Power Supply with GI Drivetrain Notated]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During this time period, general illumination entered the power supply [1 / 2], was parsed, and exited the power supply as 4 separate circuits [4].  Although there were 4 discrete GI circuits with 4 separate fuses [5], all 4 circuits were turned on/off via one relay [3] located on the power supply.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the factory connection on the power supply for System 9 games differs than what is shown in the picture. Connections [1 / 2] do not exist on System 9 games, and only two wires are used to input the general illumination instead of four.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Big Guns to Swords of Fury=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone Interconnect.JPG|300px|left|thumb|The interconnect board from a Cyclone mounted to the left side of the backbox]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With all the games mentioned in this particular section, there were some design growing pains.  Williams was creating a preliminary interconnect board, however, it was very different from game to game at first.  Therefore, GI issues may occur at the power supply connections, the interconnect board connections, and / or at one of the discrete GI relay boards used.  Since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A shown at the pic on the left, the general illumination headers, connectors, and connector housings have been changed out due to fatigue / failure.  This is a common failure point on games such as Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Games From Taxi to Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball=====&lt;br /&gt;
The games included during this era used a somewhat standardized interconnect board located below the CPU board.  The GI circuits coming directly from the transformer enter the board on the right side at connector J6.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  In actuality, the GI wires are only 4 wires, instead of 8 wires.  Once the upper 2 wires reach the board, each of them are daisy-chained through the insulation displacement connector (IDC).  Equally, the bottom 2 wires are connected in the same fashion.  This was presumedly done to reduce cost, and decrease the life expectancy of the connection as a whole.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect BK2K GI Marked.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Williams Interconnect Board with general illumination wire colors marked.  Interconnect board is from a Black Knight 2000]]&lt;br /&gt;
The most typical header connections that fail on the interconnect board are J6 (the GI input and return) and J7 (the GI output and return lines to the backbox insert).  The purpose of the picture to the left is to easily identify what GI circuits pass through what connections.  This will aid in attempting to check the continuity of your rework, whether only replacing just one of the header connectors or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the wiring color codes for J6 in the pic are not the incoming wire colors.  The wiring codes in the pic are illustrated this way to determine where the GI circuits disperse throughout the board.  The game&#039;s schematics in the manual include this information too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that discrete GI relay boards were still used during this time period.  Dependent on the game, there may be one to three discrete GI relay boards used.  Again, since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======Repairing the General Illumination Input Connector / Wiring======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Butterfly_GI.jpg|thumb|300px|left|General Illumination input connector with looped (butterfly) wiring]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11 Interconnect GI Connection.jpg|thumb|300px|right|One method for repairing the GI input connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
From the factory, only 4 wires total were connected to the GI power and return input connector, which is located on the right hand side of the interconnect board.  With only 4 discrete connections per wire from the transformer, 8 wires are needed to connect to the interconnect board.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  To increase 2 wire connections to 4 wire connections, the wires connect to the IDC connector via one connector pin, pass through that connector pin, and loop back to another connector pin.  In doing this, the life expectancy of the connector and the header pins on the interconnect board are reduced (too much current for these connections to maintain over their lifespan).  The end result is typically burnt connector pins, housings, headers, and in some cases, the interconnect board too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To resolve the burnt connection issue, the header pins on the interconnect board should be replaced with new ones.  Preferably 7A higher current rated header pins.  As for the harness side, the housing should be replaced too, and Molex Trifurcon crimp pins used within the housing.  To compensate for the extra wires needed, each of the input wires will need a &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot; junction soldered in place.  To do so, take a small piece of wire approximately 4&amp;quot; - 5&amp;quot; long.  In the middle of the small piece of wire, carefully strip the insulation, leaving about 1/4&amp;quot; of exposed wire.  Place a piece of heatshrink on the single incoming wire.  Then, bend the small piece of wire at its center where the insulation is stripped, until both ends leads are nearly parallel with one another.  Take the incoming wire, and solder it to the exposed wire in the center.  The end result will look like a rudimentary &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot;.  Pull the heatshrink over the junction, and that&#039;s it.  This needs to be done for the remaining 3 wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the wire modifications, you can also do a board modification. The J6 connector on the right side can be burned to a crisp. Often lifting pads under the printheader. To repair this you can add a jumper wire to the top 4 traces, connecting pin 1-2-3-4 together. This can also be done for the bottom 2 traces, connecting pin 6-8 together, but you are still missing pins 5 and 7 to be connected to 6 and 8. Turn the board over and solder a jumper over pins 5 thru 8. The same can be done for pins 1 thru 4. Now you have the best possible connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_1.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board with Modification&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_2.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (front)&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_3.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (back)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorLampMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing lamp matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistor.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The same broken SIP resistor after removal.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Sockets=====&lt;br /&gt;
Failed lamp sockets are not very common with System 9-11c games.  If a specific lamp will not illuminate, spinning the lamp socket canister or solder tab can resolve the issue in some cases.  One thing to keep in mind is that all controlled lamp sockets have a diode soldered to two of the lamp socket tabs.  Due to this, the legs of the diode can get pressed against other leads on the lamp socket resulting in an electrical short.  The end result may be a lamp which shines more brightly than other lamps in the same column or row, or a whole lamp column or row will illuminate dimly when they shouldn&#039;t be lit at all.  The resolution is to inspect all associated lamps in the column or row, and look for solder tabs or diode legs touching where they should not be.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Pinbot, Williams introduced lamp boards.  Lamp boards were used in areas where lamp inserts were positioned too closely together, and it did not make logical sense (or it was not physically possible) to use individual lamp sockets.  With subsequent games, lamp boards were used whenever lamp inserts were &amp;quot;nested&amp;quot; in groups.  This trend was presumedly done to save on assembly and production costs.  One benefit of lamp boards is that bulb replacemnt became easier in most cases.  A simple turn of the twist lamp socket (WMS # 24-8767), and the 555 bulb could be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Lamp Board.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Early direct solder lamp board as seen on Pinbot - the large color matrix below the top and right colored targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generations of lamp boards had the lamp column and row wires soldered directly to the board.  On one hand, this is beneficial, because there is one less mechanical connection used in the lamp circuits.  On the other hand, it makes it more difficult to remove the lamp boards completely from the game to clean and / or service.  On the plus side, very little goes wrong with the direct wired lamp boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|300px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Two things that can fail are individual lamp circuit diodes or the solder pads can develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot;, where the twist sockets make physical contact with the board.  To overcome the divots, simply add a little solder, and carefully reflow the solder pads.  Make certain not to apply too much heat...just enough to evenly flow the solder.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Fire!, Williams started using lamp boards with .156&amp;quot; header connections for the lamp column and row lines.  This allowed for easy removal and service of the lamp boards.  However, it introduced some new problems.  Because the lamp boards used were single-sided, (this was presumably a cost analysis decision), the .156&amp;quot; header pins can develop cold solder joints and crack due to vibration.  The problem can easily be rectified by removing the old solder from the header pins, and applying fresh, new solder.  This style of lamp board is susceptible to the same issues (bad diodes and divots) as mentioned in the direct wired lamp boards section above.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Adjacent Columns or Rows Lighting Simultaneously =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsS11ShortedLampColumnDrives.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Column drive transistor tabs touching, shorted together. Here, lamp columns 3 and 4 would light at the same time.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A problem seen fairly often is the tabs of either column drives or row returns touching, and therefore shorted and causing more than one column (in the picture at left) or row to light at the same time. If you have this issue, it&#039;s easy to quickly examine the column drive and row return transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Lamp Matrix Row and Column Testing =====&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using a jumper wire.  The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the lamp matrix columns and rows.  The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_columns.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP42 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns.  Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it&#039;s function is to prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix.  In this test we are only connecting a single lamp at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J7.  There is no pin 5 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a column doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q66&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q64&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q62&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q60&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q58&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q56&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q54&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q52&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_rows.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP102/122 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J6.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a row doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test. The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q80&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q81&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q82&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q83&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Grn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q84&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q85&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q86&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q87&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using MOSFETs in the Lamp Matrix Circuitry=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Procedure by Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. Using modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06), the heat (and power consumption) can be reduced substantially.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETSchematic.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Typical &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation (left), &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation on right. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics shown at left compare the widely used &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation with the &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation that uses two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half. Doing so drives the MOSFET with a 9 VDC Vgs.&amp;lt;br  clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 9 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors and IRF9Z34N FETs installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q23-30&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR5&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 11 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R82-89&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR16&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11_mosfet.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A very clean alternate implementation with resistors on the component side. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider DumbAss&#039;&#039;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shown at left is a very clean installation of all parts on the component side of the board. Note that the 1K resistors are situated such that the &amp;quot;body&amp;quot; of the resistor passes between the MOSFETs instead of the legs, thereby eliminating the possibility of a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.  Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorSwitchMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing switch matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Row and Column Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the switch matrix can be tested by simulating switch closures using a jumper wire on both System 9 and System 11 (all revision levels) MPUs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem9SwitchMatrixTesting.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Testing the System 9 switch matrix, but jumpering from pins on 1J8 to pins on 1J10.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As seen at left, testing the switch matrix rows and columns on a System 9 MPU is identical to testing on a System 11 MPU except for which connectors to use. The switch columns on the System 9 MPU at 1J8 are numbered right to left. The switch rows at 1J10 are numbered left to right. 1J9 is available (sometimes not stuffed) for opto switch processing, although this feature may never been used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 switch matrix operates on 5VDC. The switch columns at 1J8 are &amp;quot;strobed&amp;quot; by being pulled to ground successively by the 6821 PIA. The switch columns are normally pulled high via a pull-up resistor. If the switch at the intersection of the column and row is closed, when the column is strobed, the row will be pulled low too. In this way, the processor knows which column it strobed, and which rows return that strobe.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the system 11 switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_col.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix columns.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J10 pin 9, the leftmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated.  The test may report the switch name, refer to the switch matrix table in the manual to correlate the name to the switch number.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J8 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to row 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J8.  There is no pin 6 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire Colors&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Switch number&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_row.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix rows.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J10 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J10 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to column 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J10.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Shorted or non-working switch column====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One or more failed switch columns can be caused by a failed column drive transistor (Q42 through Q49, all 2N4401s) or a failed 1K SIP resistor pack at SRC6.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The column drive transistor part was changed with the system 11B MPU. System 9 to 11A MPUs use 2N3904 transistors at location Q42 to Q49 with 1.5Kohm inline resistors (R71 through R78). These column drive transistors fail quite often as these MPUs age. These 2N3904 transistors can be replaced with 2N4401s. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When System 11B was introduced, the switch column drives were changed to 2N5550s with 470 ohm inline resistors. The more commonly found, and beefier 2N5551, is a good substitute for the 2N5550. Before replacing the transistor, be sure which kind the board uses. Some early system 11B MPUs were stuffed with 2N3904s despite the schematics indicating otherwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A broken SIP can also cause a switch column not to work. This usually happens with System 11 and 11A CPUs. With 11B WMS also changed the switch section layout and eliminated most of the SIPs. The likely candidates are SRC6 and SR11. In the case of SRC6, measure resistance between pin 1 and 2 to 9. If it&#039;s broken it&#039;s usually open after pin 3 or 4. This is a bussed 1K SIP with additional 470pfd capacitors connected to ground and practically NLA. Fortunately the caps are not needed because they are also mounted on the board so it can be replaced with a standard 9-8 1K SIP. Pin 10 which is the common ground for the caps is not used here. SR11 is a standard bussed 560 ohm 10-9 SIP. Here you measure resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 to 10. Be aware that two types of SIPs are used on the board: bussed and isolated. If you suspect a different SIP has failed check the schematics for the pin layout. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Brokensip.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A broken resistor SIP.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a broken resistor package similar to SRC6 but out of a System 11 master display. As can be seen, the part may look solid to the naked eye, but it&#039;s actually fractured.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ground Row Shorts====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11CrackedSR11.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Note the fracture in the SIP at SR11. The fracture became apparent only after desoldering the part.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A possible cause for one or more ground row shorts (indicated by the game software on the score display during switch test) is a fractured resistor SIP at SR11 (a 560 ohm 10-pin bussed resistor network). SR11 is a pull-up resistor that is connected between each switch row return and 5VDC. If the return is not pulled up, that return will look like a low signal continuously, which the MPU interprets as a row ground short. Visual inspection of the SIP &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;might or might not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; identify the cause of the problem. A better test is to remove the switch row return connector (J10) and probe each pin with a logic probe. The logic probe should indicate &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; for every pin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Specific to the board pictured at left, a logic probe indicated that J10 pins 1, 2, and 3 were all high but the remaining pins had no signal at all. The fracture can easily be seen between pins 5 and 6 of the SIP (pin 4 isn&#039;t used) meaning that pins 6 through 10 were not connected to 5VDC and therefore not pulling the switch row return to logic high. Hence, the MPU declared a row ground short for rows 1 through 5.  Note that the actual fracture can rarely be seen prior to attempted removal of the resistor network from the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 4N25 Opto Couplers in the Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:4N25System11InterconnectBoard.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Three 4N25 Opto Couplers on a Williams System 11 Interconnect Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games that include an Interconnect Board may use 4N25 Opto Couplers to detect power being applied to the flippers or to detect 28VDC being applied to the A/C relay (as in Rollergames). Pre-Fliptronic WPC games that use the -1 power/driver board also use 4N25 Opto Couplers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These opto couplers are connected to the game switch matrix. Detecting these switches is most often used for lane change and for entering HSTD initials. If one of these functions no longer works, the 4N25 opto couplers should be considered suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, testing an opto coupler is simple using the diode test function provided by most DMMs. Set the DMM to diode test, compare results against those pictured below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Testing a 4N25 Opto Coupler&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Internal.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The internal schematic of the 4N25. Pins 1 and 2 connect to an internal diode (LED). Pins 4 thru 6 connect to a PNP photo transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test3.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the diode connected to pins 1 and 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test2.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 5, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test1.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 4, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switches Not Registering with a Rottendog MPU / Driver Board Installed====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_Before.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_After.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Modified Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the opto switches are not registering at all in a game, and a Rottendog MPU board is being used, suspect that it is an older style board.  This board can easily be upgraded though.  U2 will have to be switched from a 74HCT240 to a 74HC240 chip, and RA5 will have to be changed from a 9-pin 4.7K ohm bussed SIP resistor network to a 9-pin 560 ohm bussed SIP resistor network.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 9/11 High Voltage Section Repair&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don&#039;t continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.  &lt;br /&gt;
====High Voltage Issues With the Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Check Voltages=====&lt;br /&gt;
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working.    &lt;br /&gt;
On the Power Supply Board, use a DMM set to DC volts with the - lead grounded, probe the following connector &lt;br /&gt;
pins to determine if the HV section needs repair.  If the display fuse, F1 is blowing, &lt;br /&gt;
you should remove the applicable display connector (with power off) before testing the voltages. Note that these are &amp;quot;loaded&amp;quot; voltages. If you are testing on the bench, or without displays connected, your measurements may vary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-11883 or D-12246:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 1 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 3 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-8345-xxx:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 3 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 4 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the test points are more than about 5 volts out of spec, then your HV section may &lt;br /&gt;
be malfunctioning (if you or a previous owner replaced Z2/Z4 with 1N4763A diodes to purposely reduce the display voltage, test readings in the 90&#039;s range would be normal).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check the table below for a solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Troubleshooting table=====&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Symptom&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Cause&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacement&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 0V ON BOTH +100/-100 lines&lt;br /&gt;
| Check F1 &lt;br /&gt;
| 1/4 Amp SB&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D3&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR1, ZR2&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R1&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q4&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR3, ZR4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q3&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R4&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=4 | F1 1/4 Amp Fuse Blows&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Capacitor at C1 and C3&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Display&lt;br /&gt;
| Display Glass*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN7180&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN7180*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN6118&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN6118*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| +118V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| -118V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  colspan=3 | * located on display board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Displays Test With no Shorts&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Once the displays are tested and shorts are eliminated, we can proceed with the HV section repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacing the components in the HV Section&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Since there are not that many components, if you are having problems isolating the &lt;br /&gt;
fault, a quick solution is to replace all the components in &lt;br /&gt;
the HV section. If only one side (+ or -) is failing, it is possible to rebuild only the failing side.&lt;br /&gt;
Check the parts section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the replacement parts for one or both failing sides:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;-Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+,-Location&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340 (or MJE15030)&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350 (or MJE15031)&lt;br /&gt;
| Q1,Q3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
| Q2,Q4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| Z1,Z3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| Z2,Z4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| R1,R4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| R2,R5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| R3,R6&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| C2,C4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| C1,C3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| colspan=4 | **This is a 91V Zener to reduce the voltage to prolong display life&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11PSPartIdentification.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visual depiction of the parts in a System 11 high voltage section. Note that the legs of the MJE15030/MJE51031 are crossed as this power supply originally used OEM parts SDS-201 and SDS-202]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;strong&amp;gt;Remove and replace HV components&amp;lt;/strong&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Stuff board with new components.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Leave a little space under components for air flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Bend leads on components so they won&#039;t fall out when board is inverted for soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Solder the parts to the board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip excess off leads&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE340/MJE350 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE340/MJE350 is the heat-sinked transistor.  On most Williams boards, this transistor pin configuration is not the same as the original part.  It will need to be installed vertically with heat sink attached to the transistor only.  The transistor will sit at about a 45 degree angle so the legs can be lined up to fit in the correct holes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check your board and insure correct orientation before soldering in place.  Late versions of the System 11 series boards were designed to use the pin configuration of the MJE340/MJE350 transistors.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Do not mount vertically if the power supply is designed to use the pin configurations of the newer transistors!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MJEInstall.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE15030/MJE15031 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys11MJELegsCrossed.jpg|300px|left|thumb|High Voltage section with MJE15031 installed. Note the crossed legs on the left transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 PS Alt HV Transistor Pads.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Power supply with pads for both styles of HV transistors]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 are rated for higher power and can be used instead of the MJE340/MJE350 (the MJE340/MJE350 are well within design specifications and are suitable replacements at 1/3 the cost of the MJE15030/MJE15031). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 pin configuration has the Base and Emitter reversed as compared to the MJE340/MJE350. In the image at left, the left transistor (MJE15031) shows one method of crossing the legs safely. The transistor&#039;s two left legs are shifted right on position. The third leg is then jumpered to the boards left through hole position.  If you prefer not to cross legs, this transistor can also be mounted vertically, but this transistor would be facing the opposite direction as compared to the MJE340/MJE350 pictured above.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some power supplies which have pads for both the SDS-201/SDS-202 or the MJE15030/MJE15031 style of transistors.  In the pic to the right, the MJE15030/MJE15031 transistors are installed from the factory, but there are solder pads just below for installation of the SDS-201/SDS-202 transistors. If installing ME15030/MJE15031, the upper pads are used, and no leg crossing is required.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready to test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the rebuilt power supply, return to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Check Voltages&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; section of this guide.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9-11 HV section of the PSU is very similar in design to the earlier System 3-7.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Power_Supply_Issues|Sys 3-7 PSU Problems]] section entitled &#039;&#039;&#039;+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU&#039;&#039;&#039;, for more detail.  It also provides links to source complete HV rebuild kits which will normally cost under $10 shipped.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Panel Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segment Identification=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegmentLetters.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Alphanumeric and Numeric Segment Identification.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Will Not Light=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PlasmaBallTest.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Testing a high voltage plasma display with an inexpensive plasma ball]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If power to the display is correct, and the display was moved to a known working display panel position (if possible), it is possible that the display has outgassed. A plasma ball can be used to determine if a display glass is outgassed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A Youtube video demonstrating the use of an inexpensive plasma ball for this purpose can be found [https://youtube.com/shorts/GGftl3S_OWg?si=T5Cdzyovtar6_Han &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segments Light &amp;quot;In Sympathy&amp;quot; With Other Segments=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ShortedSegments.jpg|300px|left|thumb|In this image, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; light simultaneously, even though only one segment should be lit. The last two characters illustrate the issue clearly. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider Pinball50.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Internal shorts within a display glass can cause segments to light &amp;quot;in sympathy&amp;quot; with other segments. That is, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot;, for example, will both light, when only one of the segments &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;should&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be lit. Segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; is lit and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; is lit. This is caused by an internal short within the glass. The short can be confirmed by &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;removing the leads of the associated segments from the PCB&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; and measuring resistance between them. The resistance should be infinite, or open.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, there is no way to repair the glass and it should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Commas stuck on (Players 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4)=====&lt;br /&gt;
System 9: Check IC36 on the MPU (6821 PIA)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 16 = Players 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
Pin 17 = Players 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game in attract mode, check these pins with a logic probe. They should go low each time the displays turn off. if they stay high, the PIA is likely bad and will need to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Fuse F1 Blows=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the UDN Chips&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the display fuse is blowing, you should check the display board for shorts before connecting&lt;br /&gt;
a new or rebuilt power supply to the display board, as a shorted display or chip can damage a good power&lt;br /&gt;
supply.  Remove the display board from the system.  The display characters are driven by the two types &lt;br /&gt;
of UDN chips, the UDN7180 &amp;amp; UDN6118 (or UDN6184).  Locate these chips (there are several)&lt;br /&gt;
on the board and test them with your DMM set to diode check.  Clip your + (RED) &lt;br /&gt;
lead to the ground trace of the board.  Probe the UDN chips as shown in the diagram.  &lt;br /&gt;
If any shorts are read in the tested pins, the display should not be connected to the power &lt;br /&gt;
supply until the shorts are corrected.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pins labeled &#039;dont care&#039;), the UDN&lt;br /&gt;
chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board.  Take care to preserve this chip,&lt;br /&gt;
as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace.  Now install an IC socket in its place.&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat the test with no chip installed.  If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing Display Glass=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change1.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed with glass nipple in proper location]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change2.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Replacement glass installed after circuit board was drilled to allow for glass nipple in different location]]&lt;br /&gt;
All plasma displays have a finite life expectancy.  Display glass replacements were and are offered in several configurations.  The differences in these configurations are mainly the placement or lack of a display &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; on the back of the glass.  The glass nipple is what can pose as somewhat of a problem, when replacing a display glass.  Williams did place a rather large hole in the display circuit board.  However, the placement of the glass nipple has changed.  To overcome this issue, a hole can carefully be drilled through the circuit board to allow for the glass nipple.  When drilling, drill successive holes, starting with a small drill bit first, rather than drilling one large hole.  This will reduce the chances of the circuit board &amp;quot;splintering&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At one time, [http://www.pinballpcb.com/Displays.html pinballpcb.com] did offer replacement displays and / or just the replacement display circuit boards.  Neither of these products are available anymore.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit Repair.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Original display glass was secured to its circuit board with double-sided, high tack, foam tape.  If this cannot be acquired, a simple method to secure an existing or new display glass is to use silicone caulk or RTV caulk.  However, in following this method, the glass must be supported on the board until the caulk cures.  Wrapping the glass with rubber bands is a great way to do this.  Once the caulk is cured, just cut off the rubber bands.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Logic States of Display Output Signals for a Working MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
These logic states were recorded from a System 11A board. This board was running Swords of Fury code in display test mode manually paused with all characters / digits on &amp;quot;8&amp;quot;.  This is for games with a 4 x 7 display board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
L=LOW, H=HIGH, P=PULSE&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ3 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || H&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ2 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || None (Key) &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ1 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || L || 1 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || L || 3 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || L || 5 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || L || 7 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L || 9 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || L || 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 14 || L || 13 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 16 || L || 15 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 18 || L || 17 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 20 || P || 19 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 22 || P || 21 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 24 || P || 23 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 26 || P || 25 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jumper Settings for a newer System 9 Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board jumpers.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Jumpers Circled on a Comet System 9 Speech Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned above, the System 9 speech board is essentially the same as the System 6/7 speech board. However, the newer speech board has jumpers added to increase the flexibility of EPROMs used.  Either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs can be used.  If using 2532 EPROMs, install jumpers W2 and W4, and remove jumpers W1 and W3.  If using 2732 EPROMs, install jumpers W1 and W3, and remove jumpers W2 and W4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Sound or Speech Calls=====&lt;br /&gt;
To start a sound test, simply press the SW2 momentary switch at the bottom of the CPU board located between connections 1J16 and 1J17.  Once SW2 is pressed, the CPU will cycle through all of the sound / speech calls continuously.  Each System 9 game has a chart located in the manual, which lists the speech and sound calls made during test.  The benefit of the chart in the manual is that it lists the ROM where a particular call originates.  If a particular sound / speech call is not heard, the associated ROM listed for that call may be bad.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another result of speech calls missing is possibly a bad U2 or U3 on the speech board.  Both of these chips are 1458 op-amps.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Isolating the CPU Sound from the Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the sound / speech calls originate from the CPU board, while the remaining calls originate from the speech board.  If after running a game through sound test by pressing SW2, and some sounds are missing or very low in volume, a good idea is to isolate the CPU board from the speech board.  All of the sounds originated on the CPU board, leave the board via the 40 pin ribbon cable, and go to the speech board for mixing.  Once mixed, all of the sounds and speech are then returned to the CPU board, amplified, and sent out to the speakers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Much like the System 6/7 sound and speech boards, the sound can be isolated from the speech board for testing purposes.  The System 6/7 Type 2 sound board uses a jumper at position W1.  When jumper W1 is installed, the sound board can be diagnosed without the speech board installed.  The equivalent with the System 9 CPU board is jumper W10.  This jumper is typically not connected.  However, when it is connected, the sounds originating from the CPU board can be heard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Locate jumper W10 on the CPU board.  W10 is located to the right of SW2 on the board. There should be two very small wires clipped on either side of W10, as if W10 was installed and removed. Connect an alligator test lead across the short leads of W10.  If the short leads are not present, a short light gauge wire or wire wrap can be tack soldered to the solder pads of W10, or use a jumper wire to connect the lower legs of C32 and R76 which are just right of W10 (see pic, below).  With a jumper installed at W10, some sounds should be heard when SW2 is pressed. Sound test, via the coin door diagnostic button is likely to provide sounds for all but sound 7, which is a voice call. If no sounds are heard, further troubleshooting must be performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=350px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Adding W10 to a System 9 CPU Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumper.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Locating jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumped.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Temporarily jumpering W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System9JumperTemporary.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Alternate for jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games are known to &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; a bit. The &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; is caused by electromagnetic interference from the lamp matrix insinuating itself on the sound circuit. To minimize the interference, ensure all boards are screwed tightly to the backbox ground plain, with all screws installed.  This improves grounding and will help minimize &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another cause of hum could be an inconsistent +5DC volts from the power supply. An indicator of this being the cause of hum would be the game occasionally resetting as well.  Replacing caps C8 and C10 on the power supply may correct this issue.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the version of System 11 board, an 11C board or anything else (nothing, 11A, and 11B), sounds and music are handled with different specifics.  With the first 3 generations of MPU boards, the sounds originate from the MPU board and the background music originates from the sound board.  With the 11C board, both sounds and music are on the sound board, as the MPU no longer has a sound section populated on it. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume POT value=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 5K linear volume POT. Others shipped with a 10K linear volume POT. Both POT values work fine and either can be used to replace a failed volume POT.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 50 ohm resistor soldered to the volume POT. It is thought that this resistor was included so that the volume could never be turned to zero. For route games, at least some sound was thought to increase game earning potential. This resistor can be removed or jumpered around to enable turning the sound volume completely off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Boot Up Diagnostic Tones for the D-11297, D-11298, and D-11581 Sound Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11297, D-11298, and the D-11581 sound boards all provide diagnostic tones (&amp;quot;bongs&amp;quot;) at power on.  A single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; means that the sound board is operating properly.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of a bong indicates a problem with the sound board or it&#039;s connections. The possible causes for failure are numerous, including a failed amplifier, missing or incorrect connector placement, missing or noisy (AC ripple) power for a required voltage (-12VDC), failed speakers or the connection to the speakers, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is healthy enough to perform it&#039;s own self-diagnosis, it will attempt to indicate the problem by playing a specific number of bongs, as shown in the tables below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11297 &amp;amp; D-11298 Sound Boards&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U3 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11581 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U5 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Diagnostics Via the MPU Board for Games Prior to 11C=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the upper switch of the two switches on the side of the MPU board will test both the CVSD and DAC on the MPU board.  The first sound is typically sound ROM (on the MPU) specific, and it is a test of the CVSD chip.  The second sound is described as a  &amp;quot;twing&amp;quot;, and it is a test for the DAC.  If no sounds are heard, refer to the potential issues listed above in the previous section.  If one &amp;quot;ring&amp;quot; is heard, it denotes that the U23 RAM chip has failed.  Two or four rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U21 ROM.  Three or five rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U22 ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Connecting the Speaker and Volume Connections for a System 11 MPU Board on the Bench=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS Sys11 Speaker Volume Connection.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Speaker and Non-adjustable Volume Control Connected on a System 11 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the sound on a System 11 MPU on the bench, a speaker and volume control must be connected to connectors 1J15 and 1J16 respectively. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The speaker should connect to pins 2 and 3 of 1J15. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the adjacent pic, a 470Kohm resistor was used in lieu of a volume pot.  Other resistor values can be used, but 470Kohm allows the sound to be set to a comfortable audible level.  Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped into a .156&amp;quot; housing as shown. This resistor/connector set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3 through System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using alligator clip leads to power the board, use special care as to not send +12v down the -12v line (the pins are adjacent to one another).  Sending +12v down the -12v bus will most definitely destroy the 1408 DAC chip (if populated).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Is Very Faint Even at Maximum Volume =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:55536-CVSD.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Two hard to find 55536 CVSD ICs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
While most techs would suspect either a TL082 or a TL084 amplifier (on a pre-DCS sound board) or a 1458 amplifier (on a System 11 MPU) as the cause of this issue, the 55516/55532/55536/55564 CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta-Modulator) can also cause this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isolation to the CVSD is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into sound test.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use an oscilloscope to probe pins 9 and 12. A scope must be used since the signals are too subtle for a logic probe to detect.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 is a clock signal. &lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 12 is a data signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is making sounds that use the CVSD, both pin 9 and pin 12 should show &amp;quot;off nominal&amp;quot; signals. If the CVSD is working correctly, the output at pin 3 should be showing signal also. If it is not, then the CVSD has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Some Sounds Lower Volume Than Others =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11DACChannel.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The sound section of a System 11 MPU and the 2N3904 amplifying transistor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another sound anomaly manifests as some sounds being more faint than others is a failure in the 1408 DAC sound lane channel. In High Speed, for example, &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot; exercises both the 1408 and 55536 sound lanes. Sounds 1, 3, and 5 are all made via the 1408 DAC lane. If those sounds are faint, the issue could be the 10uf capacitor (C8), the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) that is used as a pre-amplifier, the 3.3K resistor (R7), or the 1408 DAC. Eliminating the easy possibilities first, replace the 10uf capacitor. If that doesn&#039;t fix the issue, replace the 2N3904. The 2N3904 may &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot; as failed, but not always. If the issue still remains, replace R7. Lastly, replace the 1408 DAC (U2). An equivalent part that may be used is the DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video, showing the problem and resolution can be viewed [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7fk3PtwvtE here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS_Sys11_1408_flipped_lid.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 1408 in the sound section of a System 11 MPU lost its top!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In another instance, Pin*Bot, all of the sounds were faint, except the last two in test.  This ended up being a bad 1408 DAC.  The last two sounds were unaffected, because the 55516 CVSD chip handled them.  With a visual inspection, the 1408 in the pic could not be determined it was bad, until it was in the midst of being desoldered from the circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Voice callouts are much softer than music/sound =====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A and 11B MPU boards were populated with different resistor and capacitor value parts. If an 11A MPU is installed into an 11B game (F-14 into an Earthshaker for instance), it is possible that the voice callouts will be noticeably softer than the other music/sound. The following table details the difference between the two sound mixing sections &#039;&#039;(Thanks to Pinsider &amp;quot;Mneubey&amp;quot;)&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11n_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11 (nothing) sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Resistors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R21 is 12K in 11B, 15K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R22 is 22K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R19 is 56K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R16 is 180K in 11B, 56K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R17 is 270K in 11B, 220K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R15 is 180K in 11B, 43K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R20 is 12K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Capacitors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C12 is 470pf in 11B, 1200pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C11 is 100pf in 11B, 180pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C10 is 470pf in 11B, 1800pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11b_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11B sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Board D-11581 Mixer Section Resistor Values =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D11581ResistorValues.jpg|500px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Mixer&amp;quot; section resistor values across D-11581 sound board games. &#039;&#039;Data courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A through 11C sound boards were populated with different resistor values. The table shown at left details the differences between the sound mixing sections for each game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the value of R13 will change also. It should be 4.99K for &amp;quot;Fire!&amp;quot; through &amp;quot;Police Force&amp;quot;, and 10K for all other games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Some Music or Garbled Music with a D-11581 Sound Board and 5 Bongs=====&lt;br /&gt;
A sound board booting with 5 bongs indicates a failure of the U20 ROM. While U20 could, in fact, have failed, 5 bongs could also mean that the software can&#039;t access U20. In one such case where 5 bongs were heard, during music test, tests 4 and 6 would play music but the music was garbled and/or incorrect. The root cause was W10/W11 jumper settings on the sound board that didn&#039;t match the ROM size. W10/W11 should be set to the left for 27256 ROMs; to the right for 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Modifying a pre-System 11C Sound Board to use 27512 ROMs (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. Note that W3 is &amp;quot;always IN&amp;quot;. The solder mask over the W3 jumper trace has been removed for clarity. Normally the trace is covered by a dashed white silkscreen line.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3Modified.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. W3 has been cut to enable use of 27512 ROMs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some revisions of the D-11581 sound board will not accept 27512 sound ROMs without modification. By the time that revision C was manufactured, jumpers W10 and W11 were added above U20 to enable use of larger ROMs. Prior to that, jumpers W2 and W3 were implemented, but were of little use since both jumpers tied A15 (pin 1) of each EPROM to +5VDC. Making the modification pictured at right, then installing jumper W2, enables the use of 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jokerz specific sound issue=====&lt;br /&gt;
A special case of interference is present on the Jokerz game, which uses a unique stereo sound board.  A deficiency in its design prevents all of the noise from being eliminated from the board.  Details can be found in the original Williams service bulletin here: [http://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf Jokerz service bulletin at IPDB.org]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Whirlwind Doesn&#039;t play Sound 7 During Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
This particularly annoying issue appears to have no impact during gameplay. The only manifestation is that &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot;, sound 7 doesn&#039;t play. The normal sound is an explosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This issue is caused by old game ROM versions at U26 and U27. Revision PA1 doesn&#039;t send the command to the sound subsystem to play sound 7, even though sound 7 is displayed on the alphanumeric display. Updating U26/U27 to &amp;quot;LA3&amp;quot; as can be found at www.ipdb.org will correct this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:YT.png]] Correct Whirlwind sounds are demonstrated in a YouTube video found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Board Theory of Operation (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated and including jumpers W10 and W11]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Major components of the D-11581 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*68B09E externally clocked CPU, which is also used in all WPC MPU and pre-DCS sound boards&lt;br /&gt;
*68B21 Peripheral Interface Adapter, capable of running at 2Mhz&lt;br /&gt;
*Up to 3 ROMs. All boards can accommodate 27256 ROMs. Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
*6116 RAM (2K bytes). Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate a 6264 RAM (8K bytes)&lt;br /&gt;
*YM2151 sound synthesizer paired with the YM3012 DAC (outputs channel 1 and channel 2)&lt;br /&gt;
*55516 CVSD (continuously variable slope delta) audio encoder, which provides a 3rd audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*1408 DAC (digital to analog converter), which provides a 4th audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*Various 74XX ICs that perform address decoding and chip selection logic&lt;br /&gt;
*1458 pre-amplifiers and TDA2002 amplifiers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11581 sound board shares a lot of board design and architecture of the pre-DCS sound board that was introduced with WPC games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power requirements for the board are supplied via connector J3. The typical sound board power levels are required, 5VDC, 12VDC, -12VDC, and Ground. Three 100uf capacitors reduce noise on the power busses along with several small ceramic caps which filter high frequency noise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Reset&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The on board 68B09E is reset via the external reset signal provided by the MPU board, via connection J4, pin 18. If attempting to operate the board without the MPU board connected, the processor must be manually reset via momentarily grounding pin 37 of the 68B09E.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Clocking&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clocking signal for the board originates at the 8Mhz crystal oscillator. U16, a 74LS74 Dual D-Type FlipFlop divides the clock signal yielding both the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Q&amp;quot;clock signal. E and Q are phase shifted by one half clock cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chip Select Logic&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chip select is accomplished via the normal &amp;quot;memory mapped I/O&amp;quot; method, using U14 (74LS139) and U15 (74LS138). &lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for all three ROMs (U4, U19, U20) is implemented by U14.&lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for the RAM (U5), YM2151 (U3), and the 6821 (U12) is implemented by U15.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;How sounds are produced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are provided via J4, a dual row .100 connector of 20 pins. These sound selects are held &amp;quot;normally high&amp;quot; via a 4.7K/470pf 10-pin bussed SIP pull-up resistor/capacitor (SR1) tied to 5VDC. These SIP resistor/capacitor parts are no longer available. A bussed 4.7K 9-pin resistor network can be used as a replacement. The capacitor feature of the original part filtered high frequency noise from the communication lines. In practice, noise doesn&#039;t impact the interface significantly enough to be of concern.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board will pull the appropriate sound select signals to ground via the 6821 PIA at Uxx. When the appropriate signals are pulled to ground, the PIA is programmed to interrupt the 68B09E processor via the FIRQ and NMI signals. The 68B09E then reads the sound select signals presented at the 6821s input port (PB0 through PB7) via the processor data bus (D0 through D7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor then employs the 4 sound channels available to it, along with encoded sound files contained in the ROM images, to create the intended sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Where Do The Sounds Come From?====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections can be used to ensure that all sounds are played by the Williams combined MPU and Sound Board System.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Comet|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-2m7vKCeg2A Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Sorcerer || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pXacwGqv5C4 Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Shuttle || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/B-gsuEw1jgU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Game&lt;br /&gt;
! style=&amp;quot;text-align:left;&amp;quot; | Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Cats || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-JJKPvMBplg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bally Game Show || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/vwA4FST62ug Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Banzai Run || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/6D87Z2iUsv0?si=x8BKbDsxHFI_yodb Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight 2000 || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/uyJlxc2ewtY Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Cyclone || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pEdSxFu1Zio Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Diner || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rwCLpG5jU2I Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Earthshaker || [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eH0FVvbBQUQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| F-14 Tomcat || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rG26I-oDK6E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Fire! || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/dXKRw1GqUcQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| High Speed || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/yAmJzD9EAZA Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| PinBot || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/CoVvhwggLfU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Pool Sharks || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/gceZEgLMaDQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Rollergames || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/tN-Ns9eh8Pg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Station || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/9XERXpVGCsY?si=jSNjikeN1nM6GeQy Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Swords of Fury || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/u6baQrse5LI?si=3Y85cpAXqDF5_Qis Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Taxi || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/P7DIs5djK-E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Whirlwind|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy_GXp3Bfzg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Circuit Schematics Error ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Correct wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems Incorrect.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Incorrect wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.  Some of the early System 11 manuals show incorrect wiring for the EOS switch.  One of the EOS switch wires should be soldered to the center lug of the coil.  However, the other wire should be soldered to the lug with the non-banded side (anode) of the diode, not the lug with the banded side (cathode) of the diode.  Manuals which have this misinformation are High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings. Millionaire and Pinbot appear to be fine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Electrical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;50V Flipper Power Board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;Aux Power Supply&amp;quot; board that was introduced with these games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and 11 flipper circuitry is identical to all prior Williams System 3-7 games. The design had not changed from even the old electro-mechanical flipper implementation when the End of Stroke switch was introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yes, Williams used serial wound coils from High Speed to Millionaire and then converted to parallel wound coils beginning with F-14 TomCat and throughout the rest of the System 11 run and into the WPC run. But the basic operation of System 9/11 coils remained &amp;quot;EM-like&amp;quot; whether serial or parallel wound.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are only three switches that can affect the electrical operation of a System 11 flipper, including strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Switches inside the Flipper Enable relay (K1), located on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The cabinet flipper button switches.&lt;br /&gt;
#An End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch associated with each flipper coil and integrated into the flipper mechanism assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Series Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the flipper coil. The EOS switch is closed, creating a short across the low power windngs, that removes resistance of the low power windings from the circuit. Only the smaller number of high power windings are &amp;quot;in circuit&amp;quot; with the EOS switch closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at the low resistance high power windings of the coil. The coil plunger is pulled into the coil and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, removing the short across the low power windings, and placing them in series along with the high power windings. Together, the total resistance of the coil becomes the sum of both the low power and the high power windings. With more windings, the coil will have higher resistance and hence, lower power. The combined high resistance windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelWoundFlipperDiagram.jpg|left|400px|thumb|Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Diagram courtesy of Chris Hibler.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the low power windings of the flipper coil. And, since the EOS switch is closed, the high power windings also have a path to ground. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;both&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; of the coil parallel windings. Since electrical current &amp;quot;takes the path of least resistance&amp;quot; the lower resistance high power winding takes most of the current and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, breaking the path to ground for the high power windings. The high resistance low power windings remain in circuit, and provide &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; power to the flipper coil. The high resistance low power windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Mechanical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Return springs&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured nylon bushing&lt;br /&gt;
*Insufficient gap between nylon bushing and crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat damaged coil&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil sleeve&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil stop&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper shaft slipping within crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Others?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 Display Single AlphaNumeric Character Won&#039;t Light===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11B Bridged Header.jpg|300px|left|thumb|A solder bridge on the &amp;quot;digit strobe&amp;quot; connector.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the category of &amp;quot;things that will make you crazy&amp;quot;, the solder bridge pictured at left shorted pins 8 and 9 on the connector that carries the digit strobes to a System 11 display. This prevented one of the digits on the display from ever lighting. It&#039;s always a good idea to examine prior work closely. Assuming the prior tech knew what they were doing is not always valid.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a System 6/7 Speech Board in a Comet===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 CPU with 2732 Speech.JPG|300px|left|thumb|A Modified System 6/7 Speech Board Functioning with a System 9 CPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should the need arise, a System 6/7 speech board can be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified to use 2732 EPROMs] for a Comet.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a Data East MPU Board in a System 11 Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Whaaaat?!?!  Yes, a Data East MPU can be used in a Williams or Bally System 11 game.  However, this is limited to System 11C games only, and only a DE 520-5003-03 (Version 3) MPU can be used.  The reason for this limitation is because games previous to 11C have some or all of the sound section circuitry on the MPU board populated, the 11C does not.  Likewise, DE boards do not have any sound section circuitry located on them by design.  The board swap is not a simple drop in replacement though.  Some minor modifications have to be performed for the DE board to function properly in an 11C game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first hurdle is to properly power the DE board.  Connection 1J17 is where power originates on the 11C board.  The complimentary connection on a DE board is CN17.  The problem is that these connections are keyed differently between the two boards.  1J17 has a key at pin 7, while the key on CN17 is at pin 8.  The safest way to make a connection to CN17 with the 11C game harness is to remove pin 7 on the DE board.  This will have no ill effect, if the DE board is to be placed back into a DE game.  The worst case scenario if pin 7 is removed and the board placed back into a DE game is that the CN17 connector housing could be installed off by one pin, thus shorting the +5v to ground, and blowing the logic voltage fuse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Jumpers for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Correct jumper setting on DE MPU for 11C game ROMs]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Special Solenoid Wire Swap for 11C.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Addition harness and Z-connector installed to correct special solenoid drive outputs]]&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the game ROM jumpers have to be set correctly.  Since all 11C games use dual ROMs, jumper setting J4 must be in on the DE MPU, while J5 is out.  Install the 11C game ROMS in the following positions.  U27 (ROM 1) is to be inserted into the 5C socket, while U26 (ROM 2) is installed into the 5B socket.  Notch on the chip / socket is facing to the right.  There is an alternative method.  The code for the dual ROMs can be burned into a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Burning_Dual_ROMs_into_a_Single_5C_ROM single 27512 EPROM.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, there is a problem with how DE boards poll the special solenoid drivers differently than 11C boards.  Two of the drivers are correct (solenoids 17 and 21), while the four others are mismatched.  To overcome this problem, either a harness can be created (DE board to 11C harness) with a Z-connector installed between 1J19 and the game harness, or the 7-pin housing (the 9-pin housing at 1J19 is split with a 2-pin housing and a 7-pin housing) at 1J19 can be repinned.  The benefit of building a harness and adding a Z-connector is that it is easily reversible, if an 11C board is to be placed back into the game at a future time.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following wires will have to be connected to 1J19 / CN19 on the DE board for the game to function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Stock Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Swapped Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || ORG-VIO || ORG-VIO  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || ORG-GRY || ORG-GRY  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || BLU-ORG || BLU-YEL  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || BLU-RED || BLU-ORG  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || Key || None  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || BLU-YEL || BLU-BLK  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || BLU-BRN || BLU-BRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || BLU-GRN || BLU-GRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || BLU-BLK || BLU-RED  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane at Game Start (Pinbot) ===&lt;br /&gt;
Trough and shooter lane switches test alright in switch test.  Ball feeder coil from trough to shooter lane tests fine in solenoid test.  If the motor for the visor is disconnected, and the visor does not cycle at the start of the game, the ball will not kick to the shooter lane.  This may be an issue if one or both of the visor switches are not recognized too.  Not certain what code revision this particular game was running.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane and Drop Target Will Not Reset (Cyclone) ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone UnderPF Fuse 1A 5A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Fuse under the playfield of a Cyclone, which powers solenoids 1A and 5A]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Both the outhole solenoid (1a) and drop target reset solenoid (5a) are the only multiplexed 24v coils in Cyclone.  The power wires for these coils are brown.  For some reason, Williams decided it would be a good idea to put a fuse under the playfield for these coils &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(which is not included in the documentation)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.  The fuse/fuseholder is located just to the right of the spook house subway.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids Are Not Pulsed During Solenoid Test on System 9 Games===&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the enabling switch associated with the special solenoid device.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU energizes a coil 5 times===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Police Force&#039;&#039;&#039; - After the pinball is switched on the ramp diverter coil engages 5 times. After the game start the diverter coil engages 5 times again. Diverter mechanism doesn&#039;t hold in position. So after the coil is energized the mechanism falls back and so the switch is closed again. Then the software tries another 4 times to resolve the problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; Clean the diverter mechanism and in particular the plastic. Lubricate the plastic lanes!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Indiana_Jones:_The_Pinball_Adventure&amp;diff=24606</id>
		<title>Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Indiana_Jones:_The_Pinball_Adventure&amp;diff=24606"/>
		<updated>2024-07-07T03:44:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: Corrected info regarding flipper optos&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Williams  ||    WPC - DSC Sound || 1993 ||  50017 || 12,716&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure Shop Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WPC Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game-Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Path of Adventure Switch shorts causing extra balls to be served ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:IJSwitchSmashed.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A problematic switch location, just above the &amp;quot;Mode Start Hole&amp;quot;, front, right of the Path of Adventure.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The front right switch on the path of adventure gets hit underneath by balls hopping around the &amp;quot;Mode Start&amp;quot; hole. This shorts the wires/diode/switch lugs. This switch is on the same row or column as the ball jam opto. This is the last opto a ball passes as it is served to the shooter lane. If you are getting extra balls kicked up to the shooter lane, that front right switch is a good place to start.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Balls Continuously Served to the Shooter Lane ===&lt;br /&gt;
A failure certain to cause this behavior involves the &amp;quot;Ball Jam Opto&amp;quot;, which is the last opto a ball passes as it&#039;s served from the trough to the shooter lane. If either the sending or receiving opto in the pair fails to work, the game will sense a jammed ball and continuously serve balls to the shooter lane. Sometimes the opto(s) fail outright. Sometimes the cause is a fractured solder joint or the OEM 270 ohm 1 Watt resistor on the sending side opto board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that this failure isn&#039;t limited to Indiana Jones. Any game with this type of ball trough and a &amp;quot;jam opto&amp;quot;, can exhibit this behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Path of Adventure Doesn&#039;t Move Left and Right Correctly ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Path of Adventure is on the one hand, a very cool game feature, on the other hand, a bit of a booger to diagnose when not operating correctly. There are several possible problem causes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:IJPOAOptoBoardInSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The Path of Adventure opto board, in situ.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Failed Limiting Opto Board&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The POA opto board tells the MPU that the POA has reached either it&#039;s left or it&#039;s right limit. If one/both of these optos fail, the game won&#039;t know if/when limit has been reached. Testing these optos is easy, once the POA has been removed. You may be able to use the dedicated POA (&amp;quot;Mini Playfield&amp;quot;) test in the test menu.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCType2FlipperOptoBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An example type 2 cabinet flipper switch opto board, in situ.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Flaky Cabinet Flipper Switch Optos&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
To quickly determine if the opto cabinet switches are the problem or not, put game into &#039;&#039;&#039;mini playfield test&#039;&#039;&#039; mode, and operate the POA with the red button switches on the coin door.  If the POA moves fine in test mode, but not in game mode, the problem may be the flipper cabinet opto switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This one is a bit tough to understand. While the flippers may work perfectly in game play, if the opto is just a bit flaky, the POA may &amp;quot;stutter&amp;quot; in one direction or the other. It may not move at all. You can swap the left and right flipper opto boards to see if the problem follows. Often, cleaning the optos on the flipper board will solve the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The lower flipper optos control both the flippers and the POA.  The upper flipper optos are not used on this game (there are no upper flippers) and are not connected to the Fliptronics board.  Instead, the Fliptronics board uses these upper flipper circuits for playfield switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Removing the Path of Adventure ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s sometimes necessary to remove the POA to replace lamps (this would be a GREAT place to use LEDs) or repair switches. Removing the Path of Adventure is much simpler than one might assume. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Steps to Remove the Path of Adventure&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IJRearChannel.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1. Remove the three screws that secure the rear channel that leads to the POA Two are on top, while a thrid one is located underneath in the middle.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IJPOABypassLane.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2. Remove the two screws that secure the left &amp;quot;POA Bypass Channel&amp;quot;. The front screw is pictured.  Then, remove the E-clip and washer which secures the front pivot axis. &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IJPOABracket.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;3. Once the bypass channel is removed, the front bracket will be exposed. Remove these two screws.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IJPOASetScrew.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;4. Loosen the &amp;quot;set screw&amp;quot; that attaches the POA to the motor shaft with a 5/64&amp;quot; hex wrench.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Does not Land in Mode Hole (Bounces Out) ===&lt;br /&gt;
If the ball tends to bounce out of the mode hole, take a small square of Velcro (looped side preferred, but either works), and place it on the ball snubber.  Although it is not perfect, it will increase the amount of times the ball stays in the mode hole versus bouncing out.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Diode &amp;quot;Tieback&amp;quot; missing causes Driver Board transistor Q20 to fail===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Terminator2-Q20ViolentExposionCropped.jpg |200px|thumb|right|Q20, with a major malfunction, due to the diode tieback wire connection being missing. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Similar to the common problem that [[Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation#Diode_.22Tie_Back.22_missing_causes_8-Driver_Board_transistor_to_fail|Star Trek: The Next Generation]] owners encounter, Indiana Jones can lose the &amp;quot;diode tieback&amp;quot; connection, causing Q20 to fail, as pictured on the right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Without this &amp;quot;diode tieback&amp;quot;, Q20 on the driver board WILL be damaged and the associated coil is likely to become locked on and melt. The diode tie-back wire is violet/green and connects from the coil power side on solenoid 28, the AE-26-1500 subway release coil, lug to J122 pin 9 on the driver board. If the solder connection at the coil lug is solid, suspect the wire connection at the J122 IDC connector. Repinning this connection with a good quality crimp-on Trifurcon pin is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Eight_Ball_Champ&amp;diff=23825</id>
		<title>Eight Ball Champ</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Eight_Ball_Champ&amp;diff=23825"/>
		<updated>2023-06-27T18:33:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Switch Matrix */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;=Charts=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Lamp Chart==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! SCR !! connector !! lamp description !! code !! wire color !! phase !! thyristor type&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q23 || J10-1 || &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; Rollover || 91 || Gry-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q70 || J10-7 || &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; Rollover || 56 || Wht-Brn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q55 || J10-16 || &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; Rollover || 71 || Orn-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q24 || J10-2 || &amp;quot;M&amp;quot; Rollover || 45 || Grn-Wht || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q41 || J10-8 || &amp;quot;P&amp;quot; Rollover || 62 || Brn-Blu || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q50 || J11-7/J12-9 || &amp;quot;EIGHT BALL&amp;quot; Awards Extra Ball || 81 || Blk-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q36 || J13-3 || &amp;quot;EIGHT BALL&amp;quot; Awards Special || 95 || Gry-Wht || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q49 || J11-9/J12-8 || 2X || 18 || Red-Blk || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q64 || J11-2/J12-3 || 3X || 23 || Blu-Yel || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q33 || J11-15/J12-11 || 5X || 98 || Gry-Blk || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q53 || J13-12 || 5,000 Drop Target 1/2 || 80 || Blk || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q68 || J13-10 || 5,000 Drop Target 3 || 57 || Wht-Orn || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q37 || J13-4 || 5,000 Drop Target 4/5 || 70 || Orn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q54 || J13-11 || 5,000 Drop Target 6 || 72 || Orn-Blu || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q69 || J13-7 || 5,000 Drop Target 7 || 54 || Wht-Grn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q57 || J10-18 || BALL &amp;quot;B&amp;quot; || 58 || Wht-Blk || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q26 || J10-4 || BALL &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; || 41 || Grn-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q43 || J10-11 || BALL first &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; || 43 || Grn-Yel || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q58 || J10-19 || BALL second &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; || 10 || Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q41 || J10-8 || Ball in Play || 62 || Brn-Blu || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q31 || J11-13/J12-13 || Bonus 1 || 61 || Brn-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q45 || J10-10 || Bonus 2 || 52 || Wht-Blu || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q63 || J11-3/J12-2 || Bonus 3 || 25 || Blu-Wht || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q32 || J11-14/J12-12 || Bonus 4 || 73 || Orn-Yel || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q49 || J11-9/J12-8 || Bonus 5 || 18 || Red-Blk || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q64 || J11-2/J12-3 || Bonus 6 || 23 || Blu-Yel || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q33 || J11-15/J12-11 || Bonus 7 || 98 || Gry-Blk || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q50 || J11-7/J12-9 || Bonus 8 || 81 || Blk-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q65 || J11-1/J12-4 || Bonus 9 || 15 || Red-Wht || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q34 || J12-17/J13-1 || Bonus 10 || 34 || Yel-Grn || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q51 || J12-15/J13-8 || Bonus 11 || 40 || Grn || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q66 || J12-16/J13-6 || Bonus 12 || 14 || Red-Grn || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q35 || J13-2 || Bonus 13 || 78 || Orn-Blk || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q52 || J13-13 || Bonus 14 || 25 || Blu-Wht || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q67 || J13-5 || Bonus 15 || 30 || Yel || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q52 || J13-13 || Bonus 120,000 || 25 || Blu-Wht || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q67 || J13-5 || Bonus 240,000 || 30 || Yel || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q36 || J13-3 || Bonus Special || 95 || Gry-Wht || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q24 || J10-2 || Credit || 45 || Grn-Wht || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q27 || J10-5 || Doubles Playfield Value || 60 || Brn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q57 || J10-18 || Drop Target 1 || 58 || Wht-Blk || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q26 || J10-4 || Drop Target 2 || 41 || Grn-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q43 || J10-11 || Drop Target 3 || 43 || Grn-Yel || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q58 || J10-19 || Drop Target 4 || 10 || Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q27 || J10-5 || Drop Target 5 || 60 || Brn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q44 || J10-12 || Drop Target 6 || 34 || Yel-Grn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q59 || J10-14 || Drop Target 7 || 36 || Yel-Brn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q45 || J10-10 || Drop Target 9 || 57 || Wht-Orn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q60 || J10-13 || Drop Target 10 || 51 || Wht-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q29 || J11-8 || Drop Target 11 || 67 || Brn-Orn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q46 || J11-16 || Drop Target 12 || 53 || Wht-Yel || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q61 || J11-6/J12-10 || Drop Target 13 || 12 || Red-Blu || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q30 || J11-12/J12-14 || Drop Target 14 || 45 || Grn-Wht || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q47 || J11-11/J12-6 || Drop Target 15 || 13 || Red-Yel || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q53 || J13-12 || EIGHT &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; || 80 || Blk || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q68 || J13-10 || EIGHT &amp;quot;I&amp;quot; || 57 || Wht-Orn || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q37 || J13-4 || EIGHT &amp;quot;G&amp;quot; || 70 || Orn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q54 || J13-11 || EIGHT &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; || 72 || Orn-Blu || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q69 || J13-7 || EIGHT &amp;quot;T&amp;quot; || 54 || Wht-Grn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q70 || J10-7 || Extra Ball || 56 || Wht-Brn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q25 || J10-3 || Game Over || 95 || Gry-Wht || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q56 || J10-17 || High Score to Date || 97 || Gry-Orn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q59 || J10-14 || Left Outlane || 36 || Yel-Brn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q55 || J10-16 || Match || 71 || Orn-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q28 || J10-6 || Right Outlane || 21 || Blu-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q65 || J11-1/J12-4 || Rollover Lanes 10,000 || 15 || Red-Wht || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q34 || J12-17/J13-1 || Rollover Lanes 20,000 || 34 || Yel-Grn || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q51 || J12-15/J13-8 || Rollover Lanes 30,000 || 40 || Grn || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q66 || J12-16/J13-6 || Rollover Lanes 40,000 || 14 || Red-Grn || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q35 || J13-2 || Rollover Lanes Special || 78 || Orn-Blk || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q23 || J10-1 || Same Player Shoots Again || 91 || Gry-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q30 || J11-12/J12-14 || Saucer 100K || 73 || Orn-Yel || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q31 || J11-13/J12-13 || Saucer 2X || 61 || Brn-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q48 || J11-10/J12-7 || Saucer 3X || 52 || Wht-Blu || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q63 || J11-3/J12-2 || Saucer 5X || 25 || Blu-Wht || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q28 || J10-6 || Saucer 8-Ball || 21 || Blu-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q56 || J10-17 || Spinner 1,000 || 97 || Gry-Orn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q25 || J10-3 || Spinner 3,000 || 95 || Gry-Wht || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q42 || J10-9 || Spinner 5,000 || 35 || Yel-Wht || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q42 || J10-9 || Tilt || 35 || Yel-Wht || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q44 || J10-12 || Triples Playfield Value || 34 || Yel-Grn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q48 || J11-10/J12-7 ||  ||  ||  || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q62 || J11-4/J12-1 ||  ||  ||  || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q29 || J11-8 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q32 || J11-14/J12-12 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q46 || J11-16 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q47 || J11-11/J12-6 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q60 || J10-13 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q61 || J11-6/J12-10 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q62 || J11-4/J12-1 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Solenoids==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Sol. No !! Solenoid description !! Solenoid Type !! Wire Code !! Wire Color !! Connector !! Driver Transistor !! Solenoid Coil Type&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || Drop Target 1, 2, 9, 10 || Momentary || 74 || Orn-Grn || J6-1, J8-5 || Q11 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || Drop Target 3, 11 || Momentary || 78 || Orn-Blk || J6-2, J8-4 || Q12 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || Drop Target 4, 5, 12, 13 || Momentary || 71 || Orn-Red || J6-3 || Q13 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || Drop Target 6, 14 || Momentary || 86 || Blk-Brn || J6-4 || Q14 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || Drop Target 7, 15 || Momentary || 81 || Blk-Red || J7-1, J8-7 || Q16 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || Saucer || Momentary || 80 || Blk || J9-1 || Q18 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || Right Thumper Bumper || Momentary || 78 || Orn-Blk || J9-2 || Q19 || AN-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || Left Thumper Bumper || Momentary || 71 || Orn-Red || J9-3 || Q20 || AN-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || Right Slingshot || Momentary || 74 || Orn-Grn || J9-4 || Q21 || AO-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || Left Slingshot || Momentary || 67 || Brn-Orn || J9-6 || Q22 || AO-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 11 || Outhole || Momentary || 83 || Blk-Yel || J9-8 || Q39 || AN-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || Knocker || Momentary || 85 || Blk-Wht || J7-2, J8-2, J9-11 || Q40 || AR-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 13 || Flipper enabling relay || Continuous || -- || -- || -- || Q7 || 48V Relay&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Momentary || 25 || Blu-Wht || J8-6 || Q15 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Momentary || 32 || Yel-Red || J6-5 || Q17 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Momentary || 311 || Yel-Vio || J6-7, J7-4 || Q10 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Continuous || 24 || Blu-Grn || J7-3, J8-1, J9-10 || Q8 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Momentary || 57 || Wht-Orn || J9-7 || Q38 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Continuous || 511 || Wht-Vio || J9-9 || Q9 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Note&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Page 1-18 in the game manual has incorrect numbers specified for some of the solenoids.  The above table has been corrected as per the info in the manual addendum at https://www.ipdb.org/files/761/Bally_1985_Eight_Ball_Champ_Manual_Addendum_undated_replacement_for_page_1_18_only.pdf.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Flipper Circuits !! Power Wire Code !! Power Wire Color !! Return Wire Code !! Return Wire Color !! Connector !! Coil&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Left Flipper || 60 || Brn || 90 || Gry || J6-9 || AQ-25-500/34-4500&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Right Flipper || 60 || Brn || 98 || Gry-Blk || J6-8 || AQ-25-500/34-4500&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Upper Right Flipper || 60 || Brn || 95 || Gry-Wht || (to lower right flipper) || AQ-25-500/34-4500&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Switch Matrix==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!  !!  !!  !! Strobe 0 !! Strobe 1 !! Strobe 2 !! Strobe 3 !! Strobe 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! &lt;br /&gt;
| to Playfield || -- || J4-15 Wht-Red (51) || J4-14 Orn (70) || J4-13 Gry-Yel (93) || J4-12 Wht-Yel (53) || J4-11 Wht-Red (51)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! &lt;br /&gt;
| -- || to Cabinet || J3-15 Red-Yel (13) || J3-14 Red-Grn (14) || J3-13 Orn-Grn (74) || J3-12 Yel-Wht (35) || J3-11 (not used)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 0&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-10 Wht-Grn (54) || CJ3-10 Red-Wht (15) || 1 Right Thumper Bumper || 9 Coin Chute III (Right) || 17 &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; Return Lane || 25 Drop Target 1, 2, 9, 10 || 33 &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; Lane&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 1&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-9 Brn-Yel (63) || CJ3-9 Brn-Wht (65) || 2 Left Thumper Bumper || 10 Coin Chute I (Left) || 18 &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; Top Lane || 26 Lane Change || 34 &amp;quot;I&amp;quot; Lane&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 2&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-8 Wht-Orn (57) || CJ3-8 Blu (20) || 3 Right Slingshot || 11 Coin Chute II (Middle) || 19 &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; Top Lane || 27 Drop Target 3 || 35 &amp;quot;G&amp;quot; Lane&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 3&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-7 Orn-Blk (78) || CJ3-7 Blu-Red (21) || 4 Left Slingshot || 12 Left Rollover Button || 20 &amp;quot;M&amp;quot; Top Lane || 28 Drop Target 4, 5 || 36 &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; Lane&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 4&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-6 Brn (60) || CJ3-6 (not used) || 5 Saucer || 13 Right Rollover Button || 21 &amp;quot;P&amp;quot; Return Lane || 29 Center Rollover Button || 37 &amp;quot;T&amp;quot; Lane&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 5&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-4 Wht-Brn (56) || CJ3-5 Yel (30) || 6 Credit Button || 14 Slam || 22 Not Used || 30 Drop Target 6 || 38 Not Used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 6&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-3 Brn-Wht (65) || CJ3-4 Blk-Orn (87) || 7 Rebound || 15 Tilt || 23 Left Outlane || 31 Drop Target 7 || 39 Not Used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 7&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-2 Wht-Blu (52) || CJ3-2 (not used) || 8 Outhole || 16 Not Used || 24 Right Outlane || 32 Spinner || 40 Not Used&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Eight_Ball_Champ&amp;diff=23824</id>
		<title>Eight Ball Champ</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Eight_Ball_Champ&amp;diff=23824"/>
		<updated>2023-06-27T18:31:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Solenoids -  corrected the solenoid numbers */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;=Charts=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Lamp Chart==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! SCR !! connector !! lamp description !! code !! wire color !! phase !! thyristor type&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q23 || J10-1 || &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; Rollover || 91 || Gry-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q70 || J10-7 || &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; Rollover || 56 || Wht-Brn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q55 || J10-16 || &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; Rollover || 71 || Orn-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q24 || J10-2 || &amp;quot;M&amp;quot; Rollover || 45 || Grn-Wht || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q41 || J10-8 || &amp;quot;P&amp;quot; Rollover || 62 || Brn-Blu || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q50 || J11-7/J12-9 || &amp;quot;EIGHT BALL&amp;quot; Awards Extra Ball || 81 || Blk-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q36 || J13-3 || &amp;quot;EIGHT BALL&amp;quot; Awards Special || 95 || Gry-Wht || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q49 || J11-9/J12-8 || 2X || 18 || Red-Blk || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q64 || J11-2/J12-3 || 3X || 23 || Blu-Yel || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q33 || J11-15/J12-11 || 5X || 98 || Gry-Blk || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q53 || J13-12 || 5,000 Drop Target 1/2 || 80 || Blk || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q68 || J13-10 || 5,000 Drop Target 3 || 57 || Wht-Orn || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q37 || J13-4 || 5,000 Drop Target 4/5 || 70 || Orn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q54 || J13-11 || 5,000 Drop Target 6 || 72 || Orn-Blu || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q69 || J13-7 || 5,000 Drop Target 7 || 54 || Wht-Grn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q57 || J10-18 || BALL &amp;quot;B&amp;quot; || 58 || Wht-Blk || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q26 || J10-4 || BALL &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; || 41 || Grn-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q43 || J10-11 || BALL first &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; || 43 || Grn-Yel || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q58 || J10-19 || BALL second &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; || 10 || Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q41 || J10-8 || Ball in Play || 62 || Brn-Blu || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q31 || J11-13/J12-13 || Bonus 1 || 61 || Brn-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q45 || J10-10 || Bonus 2 || 52 || Wht-Blu || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q63 || J11-3/J12-2 || Bonus 3 || 25 || Blu-Wht || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q32 || J11-14/J12-12 || Bonus 4 || 73 || Orn-Yel || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q49 || J11-9/J12-8 || Bonus 5 || 18 || Red-Blk || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q64 || J11-2/J12-3 || Bonus 6 || 23 || Blu-Yel || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q33 || J11-15/J12-11 || Bonus 7 || 98 || Gry-Blk || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q50 || J11-7/J12-9 || Bonus 8 || 81 || Blk-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q65 || J11-1/J12-4 || Bonus 9 || 15 || Red-Wht || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q34 || J12-17/J13-1 || Bonus 10 || 34 || Yel-Grn || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q51 || J12-15/J13-8 || Bonus 11 || 40 || Grn || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q66 || J12-16/J13-6 || Bonus 12 || 14 || Red-Grn || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q35 || J13-2 || Bonus 13 || 78 || Orn-Blk || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q52 || J13-13 || Bonus 14 || 25 || Blu-Wht || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q67 || J13-5 || Bonus 15 || 30 || Yel || A || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q52 || J13-13 || Bonus 120,000 || 25 || Blu-Wht || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q67 || J13-5 || Bonus 240,000 || 30 || Yel || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q36 || J13-3 || Bonus Special || 95 || Gry-Wht || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q24 || J10-2 || Credit || 45 || Grn-Wht || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q27 || J10-5 || Doubles Playfield Value || 60 || Brn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q57 || J10-18 || Drop Target 1 || 58 || Wht-Blk || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q26 || J10-4 || Drop Target 2 || 41 || Grn-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q43 || J10-11 || Drop Target 3 || 43 || Grn-Yel || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q58 || J10-19 || Drop Target 4 || 10 || Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q27 || J10-5 || Drop Target 5 || 60 || Brn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q44 || J10-12 || Drop Target 6 || 34 || Yel-Grn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q59 || J10-14 || Drop Target 7 || 36 || Yel-Brn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q45 || J10-10 || Drop Target 9 || 57 || Wht-Orn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q60 || J10-13 || Drop Target 10 || 51 || Wht-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q29 || J11-8 || Drop Target 11 || 67 || Brn-Orn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q46 || J11-16 || Drop Target 12 || 53 || Wht-Yel || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q61 || J11-6/J12-10 || Drop Target 13 || 12 || Red-Blu || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q30 || J11-12/J12-14 || Drop Target 14 || 45 || Grn-Wht || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q47 || J11-11/J12-6 || Drop Target 15 || 13 || Red-Yel || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q53 || J13-12 || EIGHT &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; || 80 || Blk || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q68 || J13-10 || EIGHT &amp;quot;I&amp;quot; || 57 || Wht-Orn || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q37 || J13-4 || EIGHT &amp;quot;G&amp;quot; || 70 || Orn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q54 || J13-11 || EIGHT &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; || 72 || Orn-Blu || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q69 || J13-7 || EIGHT &amp;quot;T&amp;quot; || 54 || Wht-Grn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q70 || J10-7 || Extra Ball || 56 || Wht-Brn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q25 || J10-3 || Game Over || 95 || Gry-Wht || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q56 || J10-17 || High Score to Date || 97 || Gry-Orn || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q59 || J10-14 || Left Outlane || 36 || Yel-Brn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q55 || J10-16 || Match || 71 || Orn-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q28 || J10-6 || Right Outlane || 21 || Blu-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q65 || J11-1/J12-4 || Rollover Lanes 10,000 || 15 || Red-Wht || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q34 || J12-17/J13-1 || Rollover Lanes 20,000 || 34 || Yel-Grn || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q51 || J12-15/J13-8 || Rollover Lanes 30,000 || 40 || Grn || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q66 || J12-16/J13-6 || Rollover Lanes 40,000 || 14 || Red-Grn || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q35 || J13-2 || Rollover Lanes Special || 78 || Orn-Blk || B || MCR-106&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q23 || J10-1 || Same Player Shoots Again || 91 || Gry-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q30 || J11-12/J12-14 || Saucer 100K || 73 || Orn-Yel || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q31 || J11-13/J12-13 || Saucer 2X || 61 || Brn-Red || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q48 || J11-10/J12-7 || Saucer 3X || 52 || Wht-Blu || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q63 || J11-3/J12-2 || Saucer 5X || 25 || Blu-Wht || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q28 || J10-6 || Saucer 8-Ball || 21 || Blu-Red || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q56 || J10-17 || Spinner 1,000 || 97 || Gry-Orn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q25 || J10-3 || Spinner 3,000 || 95 || Gry-Wht || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q42 || J10-9 || Spinner 5,000 || 35 || Yel-Wht || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q42 || J10-9 || Tilt || 35 || Yel-Wht || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q44 || J10-12 || Triples Playfield Value || 34 || Yel-Grn || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q48 || J11-10/J12-7 ||  ||  ||  || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q62 || J11-4/J12-1 ||  ||  ||  || A || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q29 || J11-8 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q32 || J11-14/J12-12 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q46 || J11-16 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q47 || J11-11/J12-6 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q60 || J10-13 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q61 || J11-6/J12-10 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Q62 || J11-4/J12-1 ||  ||  ||  || B || 2N5060&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Solenoids==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Sol. No !! Solenoid description !! Solenoid Type !! Wire Code !! Wire Color !! Connector !! Driver Transistor !! Solenoid Coil Type&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || Drop Target 1, 2, 9, 10 || Momentary || 74 || Orn-Grn || J6-1, J8-5 || Q11 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || Drop Target 3, 11 || Momentary || 78 || Orn-Blk || J6-2, J8-4 || Q12 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || Drop Target 4, 5, 12, 13 || Momentary || 71 || Orn-Red || J6-3 || Q13 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || Drop Target 6, 14 || Momentary || 86 || Blk-Brn || J6-4 || Q14 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || Drop Target 7, 15 || Momentary || 81 || Blk-Red || J7-1, J8-7 || Q16 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || Saucer || Momentary || 80 || Blk || J9-1 || Q18 || AO-27-1300&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || Right Thumper Bumper || Momentary || 78 || Orn-Blk || J9-2 || Q19 || AN-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || Left Thumper Bumper || Momentary || 71 || Orn-Red || J9-3 || Q20 || AN-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || Right Slingshot || Momentary || 74 || Orn-Grn || J9-4 || Q21 || AO-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || Left Slingshot || Momentary || 67 || Brn-Orn || J9-6 || Q22 || AO-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 11 || Outhole || Momentary || 83 || Blk-Yel || J9-8 || Q39 || AN-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || Knocker || Momentary || 85 || Blk-Wht || J7-2, J8-2, J9-11 || Q40 || AR-26-1200&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 13 || Flipper enabling relay || Continuous || -- || -- || -- || Q7 || 48V Relay&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Momentary || 25 || Blu-Wht || J8-6 || Q15 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Momentary || 32 || Yel-Red || J6-5 || Q17 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Momentary || 311 || Yel-Vio || J6-7, J7-4 || Q10 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Continuous || 24 || Blu-Grn || J7-3, J8-1, J9-10 || Q8 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Momentary || 57 || Wht-Orn || J9-7 || Q38 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|  || Not Used || Continuous || 511 || Wht-Vio || J9-9 || Q9 || --&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Note&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Page 1-18 in the game manual has incorrect numbers specified for some of the solenoids.  The above table has been corrected as per the info in the manual addendum at https://www.ipdb.org/files/761/Bally_1985_Eight_Ball_Champ_Manual_Addendum_undated_replacement_for_page_1_18_only.pdf.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Flipper Circuits !! Power Wire Code !! Power Wire Color !! Return Wire Code !! Return Wire Color !! Connector !! Coil&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Left Flipper || 60 || Brn || 90 || Gry || J6-9 || AQ-25-500/34-4500&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Right Flipper || 60 || Brn || 98 || Gry-Blk || J6-8 || AQ-25-500/34-4500&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Upper Right Flipper || 60 || Brn || 95 || Gry-Wht || (to lower right flipper) || AQ-25-500/34-4500&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Switch Matrix==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!  !!  !!  !! Strobe 0 !! Strobe 1 !! Strobe 2 !! Strobe 3 !! Strobe 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! &lt;br /&gt;
| to Playfield || -- || J4-15 Wht-Red (51) || J4-14 Orn (70) || J4-13 Gry-Yel (93) || J4-12 Wht-Yel (53) || J4-11 Wht-Red (51)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! &lt;br /&gt;
| -- || to Cabinet || J3-15 Red-Yel (13) || J3-14 Red-Grn (14) || J3-13 Orn-Grn (74) || J3-12 Yel-Wht (35) || J3-11 (not used)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 0&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-10 Wht-Grn (54) || CJ3-10 Red-Wht (15) || 1 Right Thumper Bumper || 9 Coin Chute III (Right) || 17 &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; Return Lane || 25 Drop Target 1, 2, 9, 10 || 33 &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; Lane&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 1&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-9 Brn-Yel (63) || CJ3-9 Brn-Wht (65) || 2 Left Thumper Bumper || 10 Coin Chute I (Left) || 18 &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; Top Lane || 26 Lane Chage || 34 &amp;quot;I&amp;quot; Lane&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 2&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-8 Wht-Orn (57) || CJ3-8 Blu (20) || 3 Right Slingshot || 11 Coin Chute II (Middle) || 19 &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; Top Lane || 27 Drop Target 3 || 35 &amp;quot;G&amp;quot; Lane&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 3&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-7 Orn-Blk (78) || CJ3-7 Blu-Red (21) || 4 Left Slingshot || 12 Left Rollover Button || 20 &amp;quot;M&amp;quot; Top Lane || 28 Drop Target 4, 5 || 36 &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; Lane&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 4&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-6 Brn (60) || CJ3-6 (not used) || 5 Saucer || 13 Right Rollover Button || 21 &amp;quot;P&amp;quot; Return Lane || 29 Center Rollover Button || 37 &amp;quot;T&amp;quot; Lane&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 5&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-4 Wht-Brn (56) || CJ3-5 Yel (30) || 6 Credit Button || 14 Slam || 22 Not Used || 30 Drop Target 6 || 38 Not Used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 6&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-3 Brn-Wht (65) || CJ3-4 Blk-Orn (87) || 7 Rebound || 15 Tilt || 23 Left Outlane || 31 Drop Target 7 || 39 Not Used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Return 7&lt;br /&gt;
| CJ4-2 Wht-Blu (52) || CJ3-2 (not used) || 8 Outhole || 16 Not Used || 24 Right Outlane || 32 Spinner || 40 Not Used&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7&amp;diff=23764</id>
		<title>Williams System 3 - 7</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7&amp;diff=23764"/>
		<updated>2023-06-14T17:28:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Special Switches */  correction&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Introduction=&lt;br /&gt;
Williams entered the [http://www.pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Glossary#Solid_State_.28SS.29 SS] or Solid State era with a conversion of a 1976 Williams [http://www.pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Glossary#Electro_Mechanical_.28EM.29 EM] or Electro Mechanical pinball game called [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4828 Grand Prix].  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 1&#039;&#039;&#039; is considered to be the Solid State version of &#039;&#039;Grand Prix&#039;&#039;.  It is thought that about 5 Grand Prix EM games were converted to SS prototypes using the new System 1 MPU Board and digital displays.  The computer was only used for accumulating and displaying the player scores.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB links: [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=5647 Grand Prix SS version]&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1072 Grand Prix EM version ]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 2&#039;&#039;&#039; was next, with a 10 unit run of another 1976 EM game called &#039;&#039;Aztec&#039;&#039;.  A working SS version is very rare.  Both System 1 &amp;amp; 2 occurred quickly after each other at the end of 1976.  Aztec SS was still a hybrid machine retaining the EM chime unit in the cabinet and a credit window with an EM numbered reel behind the backglass). Player scoring was still the only digital function at that time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB links: [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4828 Aztec SS version]&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=119 Aztec EM version ] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 3&#039;&#039;&#039; games were the first Williams SS production games, starting with &#039;&#039;[[Hot Tip]]&#039;&#039; in Nov. &#039;77 and ending with &#039;&#039;[[Disco Fever]]&#039;&#039; in Aug &#039;78.  There were based on the Motorola 6800 8-bit CPU and using a Motorola 6820 PIA (Peripheral Interface Adapter) to handle the Display I/O from the MPU board.  They also had three other 6820 PIAs on the Driver Board reading targets and other switches as inputs and controlling the insert Lamps and solenoids as outputs. Solenoid drives were mainly used for ball handling by firing coils, with a few triggering sound calls or a &#039;start of game&#039; tune.  This was the start of Williams using computers for game rules and settings.  At this point they designed an 8x8 Switch Matrix, an 8x8 Lamp Matrix and solenoids driven by Darlington transistors. This design remained virtually unchanged to the end of Williams System 7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During System 3 (&#039;&#039;[[Phoenix]]&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;[[Disco Fever]]&#039;&#039;) a memory protect circuit modification was added as to help protect CMOS RAM data during power up and power down of the game.  DIP switches were used to program game settings (such as # of balls per game, high score replays).&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 4&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Pokerino]]&#039;&#039; in Nov &#039;78 through to  &#039;&#039;[[Stellar Wars]]&#039;&#039; in Mar &#039;79, according to IPDB.com.  A notable game which outsold all of the other System 4 games combined with a production run of 19,505 was &#039;&#039;[[Flash]]&#039;&#039; (Steve Ritchie&#039;s first designed game for Williams).  During System 4, Williams  moved from using DIP switches to change game settings to having the game settings changed from the coin door switches.  The settings were still stored in battery protected CMOS RAM.  [ed Note: Citation needed]  A coin door interlock switch enforced that CMOS memory could not be modified unless the coin door had been opened by the operator.  Some of the game audits (coins accepted, total number of games played, etc.) still could not be changed without access to the MPU board behind the backglass.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Tri Zone]]&#039;&#039; in Jul &#039;79 to &#039;&#039;[[Scorpion]]&#039;&#039; in Jul &#039;80.  Two notable games from this era were from the end of &#039;79 and the beginning of &#039;80 &#039;&#039;[[Gorgar]]&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;[[Firepower]]&#039;&#039;.  Gorgar (14,000 produced) was the first talking pinball, and Firepower (17,410 produced) both talked and introduced the &#039;Lane Change&#039; and &#039;Multiball (tm)&#039; features to SS games.  Note that there had been Multiball play available in EM games, it just wasn&#039;t called Multiball (tm) until Firepower. and this is a common misunderstanding.  The features these games introduced became standards for almost all pinball games produced right up until today.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6a&#039;&#039;&#039; deserves to be mentioned here as it marked a transition to System 7.  The game &#039;&#039;[[Alien Poker]]&#039;&#039; from Oct &#039;80 used the Syatem 6a MPU board (which was not very different from System 6).  But it supported 7 digit scoring displays and a redesigned Master Display Driver board, located behind the backglass on the back of the &#039;Lamp Board&#039;.  It also used a special 4 digit &amp;quot;credit/match&amp;quot; display in the approximate position where the System 6 Master Display Driver had been showing the same information (on a 6 digit display, with 2 of the digits unused).  This new 7 digit scoring displays with a 4 digit credit/match display were then used in all the System 7 games (and System 9).&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 7&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Black Knight]]&#039;&#039; in Nov &#039;80 through to &#039;&#039;[[Star Light]]&#039;&#039; in Jun &#039;84.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB link: [http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?mpu=4&amp;amp;qh=checked&amp;amp;ng=checked&amp;amp;sortby=date&amp;amp;searchtype=advanced Complete System 7 Game list] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Black Knight&#039;&#039; (13,075 produced) introduced a two level playing field and Magna-Save (tm) where the ball could be stopped from draining down the sides by pressing a cabinet button that activated an electromagnet.  &#039;&#039;Star Light&#039;&#039; (100 produced) was a &#039;boutique&#039; game by Williams&#039; production standards as the focus was on ramping up production for the first System 9 game Space Shuttle (7,000 units).  At least one Star Light game was made as the Prototype for System 9.   &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Further discussion of changes and good pictures of the backbox boards for System 3-7 games can be found here:&lt;br /&gt;
[http://tuukan.fliput.net/wms_en.html Tukkan.fliput.net]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Games=&lt;br /&gt;
==System 3==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hot Tip]]|| 11-1977 || 477 || Chimes ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Lucky Seven]]|| 03-1978 || 480 || Chimes ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[World Cup]]|| 05-1978 || 481 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Contact]]|| 05-1978 || 482 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Disco Fever]]|| 08-1978 || 483 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Used banana flippers&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 4==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards	&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Pokerino]]|| 10-1978 || 488 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-	&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Phoenix]]|| 11-1978 || 485 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Flash]]|| 01-1979 || 486 || Type 1 Sound || ||First game with continuous Background sound/Later games produced on System 6 platform&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Stellar Wars]]|| 03-1979 || 490 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody/Later games produced on System 6 platform&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 6==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Tri Zone]]|| 07-1979 || 487 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Time Warp]]|| 09-1979 || 489 || Type 1 Sound ||  || Used banana flippers for most of run.&lt;br /&gt;
|-	&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Gorgar]]|| 12-1979 || 496 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||First game with speech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Laser Ball]]|| 12-1979 || 493 || Type 1 Sound ||  || Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Firepower]]|| 02-1980 || 497 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  ||First SS Multiball (3 balls). First lane change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Blackout]]|| 06-1980 || 495 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  || First Williams game where a relay was used to turn general illumination on / off for effect.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Scorpion]]|| 07-1980 || 494 || Type 1 Sound || ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 6A==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Algar]]|| 09-1980 || 499 || Type 1 Sound || 7 digit display board||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Alien Poker]]|| 10-1980 || 501 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || 7 digit display board||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 7==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight]]|| 11-1980 || 500 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||First game with magnasave&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Jungle Lord]]|| 02-1981 || 503 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Pharaoh]]|| 05-1981 || 504 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Solar Fire]]|| 07-1981 || 507 || Type 2 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Barracora]]|| 09-1981 || 510 || Type 2 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hyperball]]|| 12-1981 || 509 || Type 2 Sound  ||Uses different driver board than pinball games ||Not a pinball - a flipperless game firing tiny pinballs&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Cosmic Gunfight]]|| 06-1982 || 502 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Varkon]]|| 09-1982 || 512 || Type 2 Sound || || Pinball in stand-up Video cabinet&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Warlok]]|| 10-1982 || 516 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Defender]]|| 12-1982 || 517 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Time Fantasy]]|| 03-1983 || 515 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Joust]]|| 04-1983 || 519 || Type 2 Sound || ||Two player head-to-head pinball&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Firepower II]]|| 08-1983 || 521 || Type 2 Sound || Uses 50v Flipper Power Supply Board ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Laser Cue]]|| 02-1984 || 520 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Star Light]]|| 06-1984 || 530 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Documentation=&lt;br /&gt;
==Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics==&lt;br /&gt;
Most manuals and ROM files can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:01-backbox-sys6.pdf|System 6 Backbox Wiring Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Catalogs==&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|1980 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/ltjq/#p=1 Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Tip, Lucky Seven, World Cup, Contact, Disco Fever, Phoenix, Flash, Tri-Zone, Pokerino, Time Warp, Stellar Wars, Laser Ball, Scorpion, Blackout, Gorgar, Firepower, Algar, Black Knight, Alien Poker, Cosmic Gunfight, Jungle Lord, Pharoah, Solar Fire, Hyperball, Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
|This catalog covers all system 3-6 games, and the first third of the system 7 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Service Bulletins==&lt;br /&gt;
Most service bulletins can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Instruction Cards==&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ Instruction Cards &amp;amp; Labels]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Fuses==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;text-align: center;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Williams System 3 - 7 Power Supply Fuse Ratings&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!System &lt;br /&gt;
!F1&lt;br /&gt;
!F2&lt;br /&gt;
!F3&lt;br /&gt;
!F4*&lt;br /&gt;
!F5&lt;br /&gt;
!F6&lt;br /&gt;
!F7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 15amp FB || 4amp SB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 4amp FB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 4amp FB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 7amp SB || 7amp SB || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The value of F4 does vary. Check the game manual for the correct rating. It&#039;s usually 10A for games with 2 flippers. Later System 7 games with a separate flipper power supply do not use F4.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==ROM Files==&lt;br /&gt;
Most manuals and ROM files can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/roms.html ROM Files]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The ROMs hosted on Planetary Pinball for World Cup has an issue. World Cup requires a [[#White_Flipper_ROM_Exceptions|special white flipper ROM specific to World Cup]], which [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2810 can be found on IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Combining System 3-6 Original ROMs Into a Single ROM at IC14===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6ROMConfig.jpg | thumb | left| 300px| A System 6 TriZone MPU, featuring combined ROM images at U14.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For all System 3-6 games, the ROMs that might be located at U26, U22, and U21 (left to right on the top ROM row) can be replaced with a single 2716 2kb ROM (or EPROM) at IC14 that contains the combined images. When doing so, jumper J3 should be IN, jumper J4 OUT. These jumpers are located just above the ROMs and to the right of IC15.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Diagnostic ROMs by Pincoder===&lt;br /&gt;
Free Diagnostic ROM images for Williams System 3-7 games can be found here: &lt;br /&gt;
* [https://pincoder.ca/ Pincoder Website]&lt;br /&gt;
They require the use of EPROM chips and a chip programmer. However, you can choose to skip sourcing EPROMs and the chip programmer by using the available [https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/ Pincoder Adapter] right out of the box. Simply plug it into the MPU board, select a test, and power on the game. Full documentation can be downloaded from the Pincoder website. The ROM images and the adapter are actively supported.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper ROMs===&lt;br /&gt;
The OS (Operating System) for a Williams pinball game is called the Flipper ROM.  Flipper ROMs with the same color label can be considered generic, although there is at least one exception where a &#039;custom&#039; White Flipper ROM was used &amp;quot;World Cup&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Game ROM can be considered the &#039;personality&#039; ROM, it provides the rules and objectives that are specific to that game&#039;s playfield layout.  It also maps the Lamps, Solenoid and Switch Matrix to their specific purpose for that game and controls how they are sequenced and timed.  Examples would be the &#039;attract mode&#039; lamp sequence or when sound / speech select calls are made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Because of large game production runs, Williams bought batches of Masked ROMs (fixed and not erasable) for the games.  This was cheaper at the time than using Eproms (UV erasable, with a small window) as Eproms were still fairly expensive in the 80&#039;s.  They used the same method for producing most of their Flipper, Game and Sound ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is sometimes a good idea to replace old masked ROMs with EPROMs, since the original masked ROMs are 30+ years old and as the legs blacken and tarnish, they will weaken and fall off. For a similar reason, many of the ROM sockets on the MPU boards will need to be replaced, especially any sockets bearing the words &#039;Scanbe&#039;, which are poor quality. Masked ROMs are very stable as they start life as all 1&#039;s and then the information is programmed by &amp;quot;burning&amp;quot; each selected bit open, like blowing a tiny fuse. This process is not reversible, and ROMs will rarely lose their programming over time, unless the remaining whisker-like &amp;quot;fuses&amp;quot; start to fail. The practice and term to &amp;quot;burn&amp;quot; ROMs carried over to other storage media, such as CDs and EPROMs, even though different technologies and processes were used to store the data. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper ROM Colors====&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used standard ROM files for System 3-7.  These two Flipper ROMs are located at IC17 and IC20.  Systems 3-6 use two 2716 or 2316 Eproms, while system 7 used a 2716 in IC20 and a 2532 in IC17 (a 2732 can be used at position IC17 after modifications are made to the board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROMs=====&lt;br /&gt;
White flipper ROMs were used in all System 3 games and two System 4 games...&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Tip&lt;br /&gt;
*Lucky 7&lt;br /&gt;
*World Cup&lt;br /&gt;
*Contact&lt;br /&gt;
*Disco Fever&lt;br /&gt;
*Pokerino (system 4)&lt;br /&gt;
*Phoenix (system 4)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
World Cup uses White Flipper ROMs, but the ROM in IC17 is unique. The MPU will not boot and run with the standard White flipper ROM. However, the World Cup White flipper ROM can be used in all other White Flipper ROM games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROM Issues=====&lt;br /&gt;
When downloading ROM software for World Cup, be aware the code available directly from Planetary Pinball has known faults and will not work properly. Code available from IPDB generally is correct and functional. The issues with these games is as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
World Cup:  Provided with the standard IC17 Flipper Rom, not the unique one required for World Cup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lucky 7:    When the original 512 byte files were combined into a 2k file for IC14 Game Rom, blank areas were entered incorrectly. &lt;br /&gt;
This causes the machine to register a failed checksum test when attempting to enter settings via the dip switches. (Note: The copy on Planetary Pinball appears to have been corrected).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hot Tip:    When the original 512 byte files were combined into a 2k file for IC14, they were done out of order. (Note: The copy on Planetary Pinball appears to have been corrected).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Yellow Flipper ROMs==== &lt;br /&gt;
The yellow flipper ROMs were used in 2 games...&lt;br /&gt;
*Stellar Wars&lt;br /&gt;
*Flash (later production of Flash used Green flipper ROMs, which are preferred. The game ROM version must match the flipper ROM color)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Green Flipper ROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The green flipper ROMs were used in System 6 and 6A games from Tri Zone (Jul &#039;79) to Alien Poker (Oct &#039;80)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Tri Zone&lt;br /&gt;
*Time Warp&lt;br /&gt;
*Gorgar&lt;br /&gt;
*Laser Ball&lt;br /&gt;
*FirePower&lt;br /&gt;
*Blackout&lt;br /&gt;
*Scorpion&lt;br /&gt;
*Algar&lt;br /&gt;
*Alien Poker&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Green Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ted Estes developed a &amp;quot;divide by 10&amp;quot; ROM that allows /10 scoring for all 6 digit Green flipper ROM games with the exception of Algar and Alien Poker. These 2 games utilize an extension to the operating system ROM contained wholly in the game ROM which is incompatible with the Ted Estes hack (when enabled - with the hack disabled, the game works fine). Installing the hacked ROMs in these games isn&#039;t recommended since there may be other side effects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Alien Poker and Algar operating system extensions shift internal scoring before and after the normal routines. i.e. Internally, Alien Poker and Algar are 6 digit games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blue Flipper ROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
The blue fipper ROMs were used in all System 7 games, Black Knight (Dec &#039;80) and later...&lt;br /&gt;
*Black Knight&lt;br /&gt;
*Jungle Lord&lt;br /&gt;
*Pharoah&lt;br /&gt;
*Black Knight Limited Addition&lt;br /&gt;
*Solar Fire&lt;br /&gt;
*Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
*Hyperball&lt;br /&gt;
*Thunderball&lt;br /&gt;
*Cosmic Gunfight&lt;br /&gt;
*Varkon&lt;br /&gt;
*Warlock&lt;br /&gt;
*Defender&lt;br /&gt;
*Rat Race&lt;br /&gt;
*Time Fantasy&lt;br /&gt;
*Joust&lt;br /&gt;
*FirePower II&lt;br /&gt;
*Laser Cue&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Blue Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
Star Light (June &#039;84, 100 produced) which was the last System 7 game, appears to have non-standard Blue Flipper ROMs. For small production runs, games were supplied from the factory with EPROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Circuit Board Schematics and Assembly Drawings==&lt;br /&gt;
===Connectors===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media: Molex-Connectors-Firepower-1.1.pdf|System 3-7 Molex Connectors]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:08-masterdisplayboard-sys3-6.pdf|Display Diver Board Assembly Drawing]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:09-masterdisplaylogic-sys3-6.pdf|Display Driver Board Logic Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-7DriverBoardLayout.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-7 driver board layout]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:05-driverlogic-sys3-6.pdf|System 3-7 Driver Board Logic Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:04-driverboard-sys3-6.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Assembly Drawing]] (Note: The Tables for Solenoids, Switch Matrix and Lamp Matrix are examples for Firepower.  However the wiring colors and locations do not change from game to game. System 7 does not use Driver Solenoids to trigger sounds, and that is covered in the Sound Board section.)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_layout.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_schematics_1of2.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Schematics (1 of 2)]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_schematics_2of2.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Schematics (2 of 2)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem3MPURevisionA.jpg ‎|left|thumb|300px|System 3 MPU IC Locator]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 MPU IC Identification Map.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 MPU adds only IC26 on the left side of the board, just above IC22 where the odd looking solder pads are.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-mpu-layout.jpg|System 3 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-mpu-schematic.jpg|System 3 MPU Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Williams_System-4_MPU_Layout.jpg|System 4 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Williams_System-4_MPU_Schematic.jpg|System 4 MPU Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:03-cpulogic-sys6.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Logic Diagram]] (Note: Because IC9 and IC10 can be bypassed directly, this diagram is accurate for System 6a)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:02-cpuboard-sys6.pdf |System 6 MPU Board Assembly Drawing]] (Note: Because IC9 and IC10 can be bypassed directly, this diagram is accurate for System 6a)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_layout.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_schematics.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_bom.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Bill of Materials]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys7_mpu_schematics.pdf|System 7 MPU Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-6_power_supply_early_layout.jpg|Early System 3-6 Power Supply Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-6_power_supply_early_schematics.jpg|Early System 3-6 Power Supply Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:Wms-sys3-6-powersupply-assembly.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Assembly Drawing]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_power-supply_layout.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_power-supply_schematics.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During the long run of System 3 through 7 games, Williams used two basic board types, designated Type 1 and Type 2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 1 Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:WMS_Sys3-6_Type_1_Sound Board.pdf|System 3-4 Type 1 Sound Board Assembly Drawing and Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 2 Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The [[Media:Wms-sys6-7-soundspeech-assembly.pdf|System 6-7 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Boards Assembly Drawing]], crafted by Phil Butcher is a great debugging resource.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.firepowerpinball.com/ Documentation for Firepower]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Errors==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
* Note that the parts bill of materials for some (perhaps all) system 7 games call out a 2N6087 power transistor for Q5. This is most likely a typo. A 2N6057 or 2N6059 should be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Technical Info=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Proprietary Numbers on Chips==&lt;br /&gt;
Some Bally IC chips are marked with proprietary Williams part numbers, and no other markings are present.  Below is a list of some of the most common chips found on Williams boards, and the more commonly referred to chip.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-8987 - 6800 CPU chip, Motorola part #SC44216P.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-9150 - 6808 CPU chip&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-8972 - 6820/21 PIA chip, Motorola part #SC44067P.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-9903 - 6810 RAM chip&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Backbox Overview==&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams backbox is similar for most of the games in the System 3-7 games. System 3-6 remained fairly similar in their backbox layouts. System 7 introduced a number of changes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* During the beginning of System 7 the transformer moved from the backbox to the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
* The System 7 PSU was redesigned and changed to incorporate a G.I. relay,&lt;br /&gt;
* An upgraded System 7 MPU Board was used, which featured a built-in numeric diagnostic display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first two System 3 games ([[Hot Tip]] &amp;amp; [[Lucky Seven]]) used chimes and had no sound boards in the cabinet backbox. In the remaining System 3 games and all System 4 games, the sound board was located in the body cabinet, rather than the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sample games of the first System 6 game, [[Tri Zone]] had the sound board located in the lower cabinet, but it was moved into the backbox for production games and all other System 6 &amp;amp; 6A games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the System 6A game [[Alien Poker]] and all System 7 games, an add-on board sppech board was introduced, which contained additional ROMs for speech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==MPU Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3 MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 3 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 was a major step by Williams to digital pinball games.  It ushered in the Solid State machines, but to begin with there were problems with acceptance of the new machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams had the Driver board firing the solenoids on Chime units on the first two System 3 games, and even had a device called a &#039;noisemaker&#039; (an EM score reel mounted in the body of the game) to provide the sounds of the score reels clicking over!  This gave the player the familiar sounds of EM machines which were still around,  The player&#039;s scoring, their credits remaining and the ball-in-play were all digital and being displayed on the seven-segment gas plasma displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Even once they dropped the chimes and &#039;noisemaker&#039; (for [[World Cup]] in May 1978) and added a digital sound board, the operator could still select the more familiar  &#039;bings &amp;amp; bongs&#039;.  A switch was provided on the sound board which allowed selection of simple digital chimes.  This option persisted right through on System 3 to System 7 sound boards, but for the most part was not used.  Digital sound became more popular as time went on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The design of System 3 was based on the Motorola 6800 CPU and what has become a standard arcade peripheral I/O device, the 6821 PIA (originally the 6820).  The PIA (or Peripheral Interface Adapter) on the MPU boards was used to drive the display I/O.  All other peripherals, switches, lamps, solenoids, and sound, are driven by the 3 PIAs on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 and 4 boards use a Motorola 6800 microprocessor with a 6875 clock generator chip, while System 6 and 7 boards use either a 6802 or 6808 microprocessor.  You cannot use a 6802 or 6808 in a System 3 or 4 board!  The chips are not backwards compatible.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Upgrading a System 3 board to System 4====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3ToSystem4ConversionOverview.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Overview of a board converted from System 3 to System 4]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A system 3 MPU can be upgraded to use a single 2716 EPROM at what will be IC14 (System 3 schematics do not give this IC position a designation number). This essentially converts the board to a System 4 board. This upgrade is useful to reduce the number of sockets (and failure points). Install a 24 pin socket at the unpopulated area, just to the right of the IC17 socket. Combine the original game ROM code into a single 2716, and install it into the socket of what is now being called IC14. The flipper ROMs are installed in the same locations, ROM 1 into IC20, ROM 2 into IC17.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CutJumperWMSSystem3ToSystem4.jpg|thumb|right|300px|IC15 (on left), showing necessary cut and jumper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate IC15 on the MPU (see picture at left)&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate the trace that runs from between pins 6 and 7 of IC15 to a via just to the right of the chip&lt;br /&gt;
#Sever that trace carefully&lt;br /&gt;
#Using jumper wire, connect the through hole via to pin 1 of IC15.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Doublecheck the work once the jumper is installed. Perform a continuity test between pin 1 and pin 9 of IC15.  There should not be continuity.  Conversely, there should now be continuity between pin 1 of IC15, and pin 20 of IC14.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 Remove Components.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Components which must be removed from a stock System 3 MPU board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 3 MPU board reset circuit should be updated as follows. This update was recommended by Williams in manual amendment 16P-482-110, and is done to improve CMOS RAM memory content protection during power-on/power-off.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Added10K.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|10 Kohm 1/4W resistor added to circuit, upper left, connected to the banded end of the zener diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove C27, R30, and R40 from the upper left corner of the MPU&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor. One leg of the resistor will be soldered to the cathode of ZR1 (banded side - top).  The other leg of the resistor will be soldered to the left through hole where R30 formerly was. The newly installed 10 Kohm resistor is referred to as R96 in System 4 MPU schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:1N4148.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Addition of the D19 1N4148 diode installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add a 1N4148 diode, if it is not already installed. The location is in the upper left quadrant of the circuit board. The anode (non-banded side) of the diode should be installed in a via, which is just to the right of resistor R23. This via is routed to pin 17 of IC19.  The cathode (banded side) of the diode should be tack soldered to the solder pad where the right leg of resistor R23 is installed. Once installed, this 1N4148 diode is referred to as D19 on System 4 MPU schematics.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 MPU Sockets.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Addition of C68 is shown above, a .1uf 50v ceramic capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Install a .1uf 50v capacitor just below the newly installed IC14 socket. One leg of the capacitor connects to +5VDC, while the other leg is inserted into a via which is routed to the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 Clock Circuit.JPG|thumb|left|300px|A factory board without the recommended capacitor and inductor update.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3Mod.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|The recommended capacitor and inductor additions have been made to this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add a 120pF capacitor (C66) and a 15uH inductor (L1) in parallel with the R1 resistor located just to the left of the crystal. This modification also applies to System 4 boards which do not have these components installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys3CapUpdate.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Here, the originally installed capacitor has been replaced with the correct capacitor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, some System 3 MPUs came from the factory with a .01uf capacitor (marked 103) installed at position C22, (located just below IC19, the 5101 RAM). If so, replace that capacitor with a .1uf 50v capacitor. The purpose of this capacitor is to snub the high frequency noise created within the 5101 as silicon gates open and close. This applies to System 4 MPU boards too.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the above modifications are performed, a System 3 MPU board will be one-to-one compatible with a System 4 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 4===	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys4 MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem4MPU.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|Another view of the Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 architecture is little changed from the previous System 3 generation.  The only functional changes from System 3 to System 4 was a minor alteration to the reset circuit as well as minor changes to the data and address bus in order to more easily facilitate the use of larger EPROMS for the game specific programming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 4 machines began with Pokerino in 1978 and ended with Flash in 1979.  Late production Flash machines also utilized the then-new System 6 boardset in place of System 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; All System 6 software will run on a System 4 board. The exception is Firepower which utilized both the bipolar proms and a 2716 game eprom. Due to the missing memory protection circuit and somewhat unstable clock circuit replacing a System 6 CPU with a System 4 CPU is not recommended. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Upgrading a System 4 MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys4 Clock Circuit.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Changed layout with additional capacitor and inductor to the R1 resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 board has a revised clock circuit which usually does not need to be modified. If there are reset problems, replace the 22ufd tantal capacitor with a 33ufd type. This will lengthen the reset period a little and helps the clock circuit to stabilize. The capacitor modification can also be applied to System 3 boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If an incorrect capacitor is installed at position C22, (located just below IC19 - 5101 RAM), it is recommended to replace it.  This replacement is only necessary, if a 0.01mfd cap is installed.  If so, replace the 0.01mfd capacitor with a .1mfd 50v capacitor.  This applies to System 3 MPU boards too. Only early system 4 boards had an incorrect capacitor installed. Also check if the 0.01mfd blocking capacitor for IC14 is missing. If yes stuff it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 6===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS-6-MPU-board.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6A MPU Board. Note that the .156 headers on this board have been replaced and an LED indicating the blanking status has been added]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 6 was an upgrade to the System 4 design, replacing the 6800 processor with a 6808.  They took advantage of the internal clock in the 6808 CPU, removing the need for the 6875 clock generator (a companion chip to the 6800 and now obsolete and impossible to find). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This also changed the way the &#039;watchdog&#039; circuit functioned.  The watchdog monitors the CPU (IRQ signal), and will blank the displays and lamps as well as stopping the solenoids from firing. When something goes wrong (perhaps the MPU board has locked up), &#039;blanking&#039; should prevent further damage to the game by &#039;locked on&#039; coils and other output components driven from PIAs on the MPU/Driver boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More ROM memory could be addressed, and this was used to hold more sophisticated game code. As an example, Firepower used a 2716 2K Game ROM (which was standard for IC14) plus 3 x Harris bipolar proms (512 bytes each) giving a total game code size of 3,584 bytes.  Having just 3K of code space is nothing by today&#039;s standards.  Programmers had to work hard to get good game code in such a small space.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During early System 6 revisions the transceiver chips 8T28 ICs at IC9 and IC10 were found to not be needed.  They were eliminated from the design as they didn&#039;t need to amplify signals to and from the data bus with modern ROMs.  If the ICs are working, leave them alone. But if not, these buffers are obsolete and can be removed and bypassed, in effect by jumpering the data bus pins of the CPU directly to the data bus. i.e. IC9 and IC10 may be removed, and jumpers installed across pins 2-3, 5-6, 9-10, and 12-13 for both ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also around this period of game development, 8T97 bus &amp;quot;amplifier&amp;quot; ICs at IC3, IC4, and IC8 were used for address and control signals from the 6808 to peripheral ICs. 8T97s are long obsolete too, but fortunately can be replaced with an 74LS367, which Williams itself used in some revisions of the board. 8T97s can not be removed and jumpered like IC9 and IC10. They must be in place. Testing these chips is easy with a logic probe. The input signal should closely match the output signal of the amplifier. i.e. pins 2/3, 4/5, 6/7, 10/9, 12/11, and 14/13 should all test identical with a logic probe. Note that since the signal is amplified, logic probe indicators might vary somewhat. But, the probe should not measure high on one pin and low on the companion pin, for example.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 8T97 bus amplifiers communicate the following signals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*IC4 - A0 thru A5&lt;br /&gt;
*IC3 - A6 thru A11&lt;br /&gt;
*IC8 - A12 thru A15, VMA (valid memory address), and R/W (read/write)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On Firepower alone, the &#039;Combo ROM&#039; modification must be done to allow the use of a 2732 EPROM as the Game ROM at IC14.  This replaces the Firepower game code found in 4 ROMs as described [[Modifying a System 6 or 6A to Use The Firepower 2732 Combo ROM at IC14 | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]], and is an excellent idea. Less chips to worry about, less sockets to replace.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams also transitioned to using the updated 6821 PIAs during System 6 because the MC6820 was phased out after 1977. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replacing the 6808 with a 6802 ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Jumper1 6808.jpg|thumb|left|300px|J1 installed for 6808 or 6802 CPU chip]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 R4 6802.jpg|thumb|right|300px|J1 removed, 4.7 Kohm 1/4w resistor (R4) installed for use with 6802 CPU chip]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The typically stuffed 6808 microprocessor can be replaced with the more easily obtained 6802 microprocessor. The 6802 uses the same instruction set architecture and pinout, making it &amp;quot;backward compatible&amp;quot; with the 6808. The 6802 incorporates an internal 128 x 8 bit RAM memory. With the proper strapping, the 6810 RAM located at IC13 may be removed when a 6802 is installed. Factory strapping grounds pin 36 of the 6808/6802 socket via jumper J1. Pin 36 must be pulled high by tying pin 36 to 5V via a 4.7K pullup resistor. This enables the 6802&#039;s internal RAM. The 6810 at IC13 can then be removed or (if not socketed) simply left in place.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Procedure&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the 6808 with a 6802&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper J1&lt;br /&gt;
*Install a 4.7K resistor at R4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Officially, the 6808 has no internal RAM. But, internally it&#039;s identical to the 6802. Sometimes the 6808 internal RAM works but this is not guaranteed, so when using a 6808, be sure pin 36 is grounded.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Factory Jumper on System 6 MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Header Jumper.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6 MPU board with factory jumper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 and 6 Header Compare.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 6 and System 3 MPU board comparison]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 6 MPU boards have a jumper installed between IJ3 pin 1 and IJ4 pin 1.  This is a factory jumper, and should not be removed.  Its purpose is due to the addition of the memory protect circuit, which was incorporated with the System 6 MPU.  System 3 and 4 MPU boards did not have a memory protect circuit.  The method in which this was added is the addition of pin 1 of IJ4.  This pin was formerly the keying pin on System 3 and 4 MPU boards.  However, Williams failed to run a trace to this pin for the memory protect circuit.  Hence, a jumper was installed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using a System 6 MPU board in a System 3 or 4 game, it is recommended to remove the keying plug from the IJ4 connector in the game, as opposed to cutting / removing pin 1 or IJ4.  This will allow the MPU to be used in any System 6 games in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 6A===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys6a MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6A MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 6A MPU is a System 6 board without buffer chips at IC9 and IC10. In place of these chips were several jumpers in closed frames, which can look similar to a socket at first glance. The jumpers are used to pass the data lines from the CPU chip to the data bus.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 6A also used four 7-digit slave displays and one 4-digit slave display driven by a centralized display driver board. This separated the displays from any board logic. Prior to this point, a master display driver board (with a 6-digit or 4-digit glass installed directly on the driver board) housed the display logic and drove four 6-digit slave displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 6 boards that are not explicitly marked as 6A in the lower right corner were modified to be 6A boards, which can be identified by the lack of the IC9 and IC10 buffer chips. Either several uninsulated wire jumpers will be installed in the solder pads of these two chips, or the same closed frame jumpers as seen on actual 6A MPU boards may be present.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Modifying a System 6 or 6A to Use The Firepower 2732 Combo ROM at IC14====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS IC14 4700 Res 20 24.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Cuts made, jumper run, and 4.7Kohm resistor added]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS J3 J4 1N4148.jpg|thumb|right|300px|2 1N4148 diodes added where jumpers J3 &amp;amp; J4 previously were]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The factory ROMs for Firepower use all 6 ROM socket positions on a System 6 or 6A board.  To minimize the amount of chips and sockets used, some modifications have to be performed to the MPU board. In doing these modifications, the board will then be able to use &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; green flipper ROM chips at IC20 &amp;amp; IC17, and a single 2732 combo ROM at position IC14.  Below are instructions pulled from the readme.txt file, which is included with the Firepower L2 ROM code found on [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=856 www.ipdb.org]. Some of the procedure wording has been altered for clarification.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are similar methods which may or may not work besides this method. Note that the jumper wire can be connected from IC14 pin 21 to either IC30 pin 14 or pin 36 of the 40 pin interconnect. If at all possible, please make sure that the board being modified boots and works with other game code, such as Gorgar, Flash, or Firepower, before attempting to make these modifications for the Firepower combo ROM.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove Game ROMs (IC14, IC21, IC22, IC26) from their sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove jumpers that may be installed at J3 or J4 (to the right of IC15, a 74LS139).&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, at IC14 pin 21, sever the trace on both sides of the solder pad. Removing the existing solder on the pad may help. The idea is to sever the +5V connection to the pin, while still leaving the solder pad at the pin itself.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a jumper from IC14 pin 21 to IC30 pin 14. IC30 is generally not installed. It is a 16-pin chip outline just to the right of IC14 and just above the 40 pin interconnect. Solder the jumper between the hole at pin 14 of the empty IC30 location, and pin 21 of IC14, making sure to not short it to the other side of the trace previously cut at IC14. This connects A11 to IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a 4.7K ohm, 1/4 Watt resistor between pins 20 and 24 of IC14. With the resistor leads bent at 90 degrees at a comfortable distance from the body of the resistor, the legs should line up at just the right spacing to solder one lead to each of those pins.  Again, make sure to avoid shorting the pin 20 connection to the jumper wire at pin 21, or the cut trace edges around pin 21.  This provides a pullup for the active-low chip select.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install two fast switching signal diodes (either 1N914 and 1N4148) at locations J3 and J4. The cathode (banded) end should be oriented toward the TOP of the board for both diodes. This enables both of the two Game ROM address ranges to drive the active-low chip select at IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#Program a 2732 with the &amp;quot;FPCOMBO&amp;quot; ROM image and install at IC14. If the board doesn&#039;t already have working Green Flipper ROMs at IC17 and IC20, those should be installed also. Note the orientation of the ROMs with respect to pin 1 of the chip sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys7-MPU.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 7 was considered a major step change.  It had a redesigned MPU board, now supporting a single 7-segment LED display for indicating improved diagnostic information instead of the original 2 LEDs that System 3-6a MPU boards had used.  It also added commas to the player scoring displays and moved the sound select support to the MPU board.  An extra 6821 PIA supported both the sound/speech selects and the display of commas. An extra 12-pin header at 1J8 was added to provide connections for the new Sound and Commas support.  This freed up five solenoid drives at positions #9-13 on the Driver board, which had been sound/speech selects.  They were then available to drive extra game Coils or Flash Lamps.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU used two 2114 Static RAMs; these 1024 x 4 bit RAMs replaced the use of 6810 RAMs mentioned above.  There was extended memory addressing, support for multiple 2732 ROMs (or EPROMS) as standard and a huge number of jumper selections available.  The jumpers support various memory addressing schemes and ROM sizes, making the System 7 board MPU &amp;quot;backwards compatible&amp;quot; and able to emulate any of the previous System 4-6a games.  (Provided, of course, that the correct Jumper Settings and EPROMS are installed.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound and Speech boards were unchanged for System 7; both sound and speech boards remained compatible from their introduction for Gorgar.  In some cases the System 7 game had no 0.100&amp;quot; 40-way IDC header for the speech board connection. This was a cost saving measure made by Williams for games produced without speech. This connector is cheap and available today as it is still used for PC IDE hard drives and modern PCB connections.  Adding this connector back to the sound board allows it to support a speech &#039;daughter board&#039; by removing the Jumper at W1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Driver Board mates with the MPU board using 40 x 0.156&amp;quot; header pins on the MPU and female sockets on the Driver Board.  This is a continual source of repair problems for this era of Williams machines.  To solve this, when designing System 9 Williams combined the MPU and Driver Boards (and the Sound Board) onto a single PCB (Printed Circuit Board), and removed the problems associated with the now infamous Williams &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; connector.  Only the speech board remained separate, as digital speech was considered an optional feature.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7 MPU Jumper and IC Locator====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 MPU Jumpers Marked.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Positions of the jumpers on a System 7 MPU board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7ICLocator.png|300px|right|thumb|IC Locations on a System 7 MPU board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System7ICLocator.png&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The image at left shows the most common jumpers on a System 7 MPU board. There are other jumpers on the right hand side of the board (not shown in the pic). However, these jumpers are rarely added or removed, nor do they pertain to the size of the ROM chips installed on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right is provided to assist in IC location.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The factory release of most System 7 MPUs contained a 2532 PROM at IC17. The more common 2732 is easy to use, with minor board modifications.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7MPUJumper.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Component side of a System 7 MPU board with modifications for a 2732 at position IC17]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 MPU 2732 IC17 Mod.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Solder side of a System 7 MPU board with modifications for a 2732 at position IC17]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;On the component side of the board,&#039;&#039;&#039; move jumper 22 to jumper 23. This amounts to moving the jumper down one position.&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;On the solder side of the board,&#039;&#039;&#039; cut the fat trace that grounds pin 21.&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the via labeled &amp;quot;22&amp;quot; to pin 21 of IC17. Be sure that the jumper doesn&#039;t short to the jumper previously moved on the component side.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7 MPU Test Pad Info====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an unpopulated connector in the lower right corner of the system 7 MPU board.  You can use a meter or logic probe to test the signals that are present on it or possibly add a connector to it (you can use a .100 dual row 20x2 connector).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:Williams-sys7-unpopulated-connector.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Unpopulated Connector]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|gnd || 40 || 39 || gnd&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d7 || 38 || 37 || ic36 CA2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d6 || 36 || 35 || ic37/15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d5 || 34 || 33 || ic37/14&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d4 || 32 || 31 || ic37/13&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d3 || 30 || 29 || ic37/21&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d2 || 28 || 27 || ic36 pb4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d1 || 26 || 25 || ic36 cb2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d0 || 24 || 23 || blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|reset || 22 || 21 || vma&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|r/w || 20 || 19 || bus 02&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a14 || 18 || 17 || a15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a12 || 16 || 15 || a13&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a10 || 14 || 13 || a11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a8 || 12 || 11 || a9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a6 || 10 || 9 || a7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a4 || 8 || 7 || a5&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a2 || 6 || 5 || a3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a0 || 4 || 3 || a1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| +5vdc || 2 || 1 || +5vdc&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
! colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; | Bottom of board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Compatibility===&lt;br /&gt;
Williams 3-7 MPU are pretty flexible.  With some modifications, boards can be upward compatible, while others are downward compatible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the details:&lt;br /&gt;
*A System 3 MPU can be upward compatible to a System 4 MPU, if the upgrades are performed as described [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Upgrading_a_System_3_board_to_System_4 above].  And if a System 3 MPU is upgraded to a System 4 MPU, it is then upward compatible with a System 6 MPU board.  There will not be a memory protect circuit though.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 4 and 4A MPUs are upward compatible to a System 6 MPU, when a socket is installed and used at position IC14.  However, there will not be a memory protection circuit. A System 4 MPU is backward compatible with a System 3 MPU with no modifications performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 6 and 6A MPUs are backward with System 3, 4, and 4A MPU boards with no modifications performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*A System 7 MPU is backward compatible with System 3, 4, 4A, 6, and 6A MPU boards.  However, board jumpers will have to be removed / installed.  It not recommended to use a System 7 MPU board in any previous systems, but it can be done.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 3, 4, 4A, 6, and 6A MPU boards are &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; upward compatible with System 7 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In any instance where a non-native MPU board is used in place of the original MPU board, the correct flipper ROMs and game ROM must be installed.  An example would be if an upgraded System 3 MPU were to be used in Gorgar.  The GREEN flipper Roms and Gorgar game ROM would have to be installed in postions IC20, IC17, and IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Aftermarket Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottendogMPU327.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|A Rottendog MPU327, which can be installed in any Williams System 3 - 6 game.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MPU327StuffedWrong.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|U17 on an MPU327, stuffed correctly with a 74HCT9114.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 Rottendog] offers aftermarket Williams 3 through 7 combined MPU/driver boards. The Rottendog board (pictured left) contains all the game code for every System 3 through 6 game. The game code is DIP switch selectable. Note that the &amp;quot;sense&amp;quot; of the DIP switch bank is backwards. Follow the on-board silkscreen to the left of the DIP switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note: as of January 2018, Rottendog is no longer claiming support for System 7 games with their MPU327 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some &#039;&#039;&#039;older&#039;&#039;&#039; Rottendog MPU327s were stuffed wrong at the factory. U17, which services the switch columns, should be stuffed with a 74HCT9114. In some boards, that location is stuffed with a 74HCT244, which will not work correctly. Note that there are several revisions of the MPU327 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU327Short.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|A Rottendog MPU327, installed, and shorted to a switch matrix header pin. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image provided by Tony, PinSider &amp;quot;goingincirclez&amp;quot;. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU327ShortCorrection.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|One user&#039;s (excellent) correction for the situation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image provided by Tony, PinSider &amp;quot;goingincirclez&amp;quot;. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog MPU327 PCB design causes the switch matrix row header (2J3) to short to a mounting bracket as shown at left. This can cause the switch column IC at U17 to fail. A simple correction for this issue is shown at right. See the [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/warning-to-rottendog-327-owners-check-it-now original Pinside thread] for additional details.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RD 327 MPU Combo Dipswitch.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Rottendog MPU327 game select dipswitch bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the dipswitch bank used for selecting a specific game has 8 dipswitches, whereas only the 6 switches on the right are the only ones used.  The 2 left dipswitches must be turned &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; (opposite of what is expected of a dipswitch) to &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Driver Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3-6===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-6 drvr.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 3-6 Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board uses three 6821 Peripheral Interface Adapter (PIA) chips to drive:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* an 8x8 Matrix for the Lamps&lt;br /&gt;
* an 8x8 Matrix for the Switches&lt;br /&gt;
* Solenoids and Sound Selects&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More properly, the PIAs were used to drive transistors that in turn drive the lamp matrix, switch matrix, and solenoid circuits. In the case of the solenoids, Darlington transistors are used as &amp;quot;solid state relays&amp;quot;, providing a path to ground for coil power, causing them to energize.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The electronic design choices Williams made became the basis for all subsequent Bally/Williams pinball games and even games being made today. The specific CPU and PIA ICs may change, more memory and ROM space is available to the programmers, MOSFETs are used as the switching relays instead of transistors...yet the basic design established for the lamp matrix, switch matrix, and for energizing coils, remains unchanged.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7===	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 drvr board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board remained almost completely unchanged from System 3 right through to System 7 with the exception of one small change that was made to the driver board during System 7.  Eight resistors were changed to zero-ohm jumpers in the switch matrix inputs to increase sensitivity and responsiveness.  These zero ohm resistors are located in the upper right corner of the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7 Hyperball Specific Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HyperBallSpecificDriverBoard.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 Hyperball Specific Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since Hyperball didn&#039;t need to drive coils other than the cannon coil and the auger motor, and since it needed to drive many more lamps than a normal pinball game, Williams created a unique, special purpose variant of the driver board specifically for Hyperball. This driver board can only be used in Hyperball, and a regular System 3 through 7 driver board can NOT be used in Hyperball.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Power Supplies==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Early_Sys3_Power_Supply.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Early Williams System 3-6 Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 3-6 power supply used in [[Hot Tip]] and [[Lucky Seven]] have a few additional components that later games did not need, physically located a little above the row of four fuses: two .22mfd mylar capacitors and two 1N4001 diodes. If a later power supply is being installed in Hot Tip or Lucky Seven, these components must be added to the board if they are missing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams continued to populate these components for several following games, but they were not utilized. These components can be safely left populated or simply removed from the board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PowerSupply.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Williams System 7 Power Supply (GI input connector modified from stock)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the parts bill of materials for some (perhaps all) system 7 games call out a 2N6087 power transistor for Q5. This is most likely a typo. A 2N6057 or 2N6059 should be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Flipper Power Supply==&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 7 C-9939 50V Flipper Power Supply Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:C-9939-Front.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS-C-9939-Back.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Back&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB was first used in Hyperball to control the auger (ball lift) motor. As seen in the pictures above, the PCB layout was designed to accommodate more components than were ever stuffed.  This is because this same board, using different components, is used in some Williams video games. In Firepower II, Laser Cue and Star Light the trimmed down version shown here provides the flipper coils with 50VDC power. The AC voltage supplied to the bridge rectifier originates from a second, smaller, transformer mounted on the wooden plank in the bottom rear of the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the coil voltage this board provides is exactly the same as that of later System 11 games, far stronger Williams coils, such as the FL-11630, can be used in these games. It&#039;s advisable when using these coils to install a 2.2µF capacitor across each EOS switch, to reduce spark across the EOS switch, as was done in later Williams System 11 games. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board suffers from cold solder joints at the header pins (at least). As shown in the picture above, someone did a (poor) job of reflowing the solder on the header pins. A better solution would be to replace the header pins altogether.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The exact same board is used in all System 9 and early System 11 games up until F-14 Tomcat. Data East copied this design. Hence, this 50VDC Power Supply can be used in Data East games from Laser War to Time machine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sound Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During the long run of System 3 through 7 games, Williams used two basic board types, designated Type 1 and Type 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Type 1 Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundFront.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams Type 1 Sound Board back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board is rectangular in shape as pictured at left. Two versions of this board were manufactured. One version placed the 12,000uf 5V filter capacitor vertically. The other version placed the same capacitor horizontally. The boards function identically. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen on the back of the board pictured at right, the board was modified from the factory to add 3 jumpers (the three longer red wires) to make it work correctly. Every Type 1 sound board should have these jumpers. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The factory installed jumpers take advantage of trace &amp;quot;vias&amp;quot; to accomplish these connections.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A long jumper that connects the reset pins on the 6821 PIA (pin 34) and the 6802 (pin 40)&lt;br /&gt;
#Pin 40 of the 6802 also needs to be jumpered to pin 36 of the 6802 for the reset circuit to be complete.&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper pin 35 to pin 8 of the 6802. This ties Vcc1 and Vcc2 together.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams documented &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;additional&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; modifications in the &amp;quot;Flash&amp;quot; manual. The board pictured has been updated with all of these modifications. A drawing of these modifications and jumpers can be found [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/d/d5/Sojueen.pdf &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The modifications are:&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between pins 39 and 40 of the 6821 PIA&lt;br /&gt;
#Add two 10K, 1/4W resistors &lt;br /&gt;
#(Possible) replace two 100K resistors with 4.7K, 1/4W resistors. Note that some boards shipped with 4.7K resistors installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Modifications 1 and 2&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;quot;reduce the susceptibility of the sound board to noise&amp;quot;. The &amp;quot;noise&amp;quot; can cause the board to stop execution after a short time, especially when using a 9316B or 2716 ROM. If a sound board makes sound after pressing the diagnostic button, but either makes no other sound, or makes sound for a short time and then quits, these two mods will probably fix this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Modification 3&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;quot;improves the quality of the sound produced at the speaker&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Theory of Operation&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board is about as basic as a sound board can be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*A 3.58Mhz crystal provides the clock signal across pins 38 and 39 of the 6802.&lt;br /&gt;
*A simple reset generator is configured with Q1, Q2, and CR3 (a 6.8V zener diode). As the unregulated 12VDC rises past 6.8V, the zener breaks down, eventually allowing pin 40 of the 6802 to be pulled up to logic high (5V).&lt;br /&gt;
*A diagnostic pushbutton, upper right, grounds the NMI (non-maskable interrupt) signal to the 6802 processor and causes the board to play a diagnostic tune (in most cases).&lt;br /&gt;
*A two position switch selects between &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; (right) or &amp;quot;chimes&amp;quot; (left).&lt;br /&gt;
*A volume adjustment POT is located on the board itself, and is a 5K POT.&lt;br /&gt;
*A 6802 microprocessor controls the board via a 6821 Peripheral Interface Adapter (PIA).&lt;br /&gt;
*The board does not have a RAM IC (like a 6810). Instead, the built-in 128 bytes (yes, 8-bit bytes) of RAM on the 6802 are used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power is provided from the transformer secondary at connector 10J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1,2 - 9VAC&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 5,6 - Ground (center tap)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 7 - Key&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 8,9 - 9VAC &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power is fused and rectified via the &amp;quot;in-line&amp;quot; bridge rectifier immediately below the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
Positive unregulated 12VDC is filtered by a 12,000uf/25V electrolytic capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
Negative unregulated -12VDC is filtered by a 1,000uf/25V electrolytic capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
The positive unregulated 12VDC is regulated down to 5VDC via a 7805 regulator at IC11.&lt;br /&gt;
These three voltages, plus ground, define the power requirements for the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A speaker is connected to 10J2, positive to pins 1/2, ground to pins 3/4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound selects are presented by the driver board to the sound board at connector 10J3. Selecting a particular sound is a matter of grounding the appropriate sound select pins which are normally held high via 4.7K pullup resistors at R37 through R44. Each signal is buffered via the 4050 non-inverting hex buffers at IC8 and IC9.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the sound select signals is connected to both a 4068 8-input NAND gate and to the (software configured) input port of the 6821 PIA (PB0-PB7). The output of the 4068 is connected to pin 18 (CB1) of the 6821 which is configured by the sound board software to create an interrupt to the 6802 processor. When the 6821 PIA interrupts the processor, the interrupt servicing routine reads the input port (PB0-PB7) of the PIA to determine which sound was commanded. The processor pulls sound data from the sound ROM and pushes the data to the 6821 PIA (software configured) output ports (PA0-PB7) one 8 bit byte at a time. The PIA output port signals drive a simple 1408 DAC (digital to analog converter) which produces the analog signal that is stabilized and eventually amplified by a TDA2002 audio amplifier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board shares most of the common faults associated with the Williams System 3-7 board set. Chief among them are:&lt;br /&gt;
#ScanBe sockets. These are well documented to be long past their useful life and should always be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
#Fractured solder joints at the header pins. The Williams manufacturing process trimmed the .156 header pins too short, damaging the solder meniscus. Over time, these solder joints develop fractures. The header pin eventually begins to work itself out of the joint which causes reliability issues.&lt;br /&gt;
#Aged electrolytic capacitors. At the very least, the 12,000uf/25V 5VDC filter capacitor should be replaced. Replacing all of the electrolytic caps is advised. Following is the capacitor parts list.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Electrolytic Capacitors Used&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*C10 - 25uF, 25 Volt Axial (can use 22uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C13 - 500uF, 16 Volt Axial (can use 470uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C14 - 800uF, 16 Volt Axial (can use 1000uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - 100uF, 10 Volt Axial&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 12000uF, 16 Volt Axial &lt;br /&gt;
*C30 - 1000uF, 16 Volt Axial&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-4RectangularSoundBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2 with the horizontal cap, front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Type1soundBoardHorizontalCapBack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2 with the horizontal cap, back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
These images show a Type 1 sound board that was introduced later in production. The 5VDC filter capacitor was turned horizontally. Also, an extra connector was added to enable a remote volume POT. Note that this sound board has been &amp;quot;recapped&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This revision of the sound board picked up the jumper modifications of the earlier board in the PCB design, with one exception. Pins 39 and 40 of the 6821 need to be bridged (or jumped) to avoid the board locking up after a short (and random) period of time. A solder bridge can be seen at pins 39 and 40 of the sound board pictured at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBoardJumper.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2, closeup of jumper to enable onboard sound POT]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later production Type 1 sound boards added a connector to enable a remote volume POT. If the remote POT is not used and the onboard POT is used instead, a jumper must be installed between pins 1 and 2 of this connector. The pictured jumper is quite Gucci. A simple wire jumper on the back of the PCB will suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 1 Sound Board Jumpers==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundFront.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 Sound board can be jumpered to use a 7641 masked ROM, a 9316B masked ROM, or a 2716 (or doubled 2732). The board pictured at left is jumpered to accept either at 9316B or a 2716. To use a 7641 masked ROM, remove the four jumpers to the right and just below the sound ROM, and install the opposite set of four jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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===Type 2 Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound and Speech Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys6-7 sound.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys6-7 sound speech.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board with Speech Board Connection&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WilliamsType2SoundAndSpeechBoarfPair.jpg ‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board with Speech Board. Note that this -3 revision board features a tantalum capacitor soldered directly between test point 1 (+12VDC) and test point 3 (ground). In later board revisions, this part was added to the PCB design.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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==Speakers==&lt;br /&gt;
With the exception of Hot Tip and Lucky 7, all Williams System 3-7 games use a speaker.  And, nearly all of them use a single 6-1/2&amp;quot; speaker located on the cabinet bottom (later games, like Firepower II, had an oblong speaker below the smaller backglass instead).  Speakers used during games such as Firepower were 8 ohm 5 watt.&lt;br /&gt;
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==Displays==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Using UDN7180A - Common)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-6 Master Display NE584.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Using NE584 - Less Common)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display discrete.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board w/ Discrete Components]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-SYS6-displays.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Slave Displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys6a-7 display drvr.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 6A-7 Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-SYS7-displays.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 7-Digit Slave Displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bowler6DigitFace.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Puck Bowler Display Glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bowler6DigitBottom.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Puck Bowler Display Edge Connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
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==Other Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
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==Flippers==&lt;br /&gt;
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==Drop Target Banks==&lt;br /&gt;
===First Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drops.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Typical first generation Williams solid state drop target bank (Time Warp)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with the first Williams solid state game, Hot Tip, Williams introduced their version of the solid state drop target bank.  Drop target banks were a rather new design for Williams.  They were the last major pinball manufacturer to introduce the drop target bank earlier in 1977 with the electromechanical game, Big Deal.  And, only 3 games prior to the solid state version of Hot Tip, including the electromechanical version of Hot Tip, were manufactured with drop target banks.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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The reason for mentioning the background regarding Williams drop target banks is because of the actual design implemented.  There is one distinct difference between Williams drop target banks and any other manufacturer&#039;s drop target bank.  In addition to using a scoring switch for each drop target in a bank, Williams used a secondary set of switches paired in series to detect when all of the drop targets were physically dropped.  The drop target bank frame, reset coil or coils, appearance of the drop target faces on the playfield, and operation of the bank was virtually the same between Williams electromechanical games and solid state games.  Therefore, it is believed that Williams designed their banks this way, because they had not been designing drop target banks that long, and decided upon a legacy approach.  In other words, the Williams solid state drop target banks used hardware instead of software to detect when all the drop targets were down.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drops Back.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Backside of Williams first generation drop targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The design of the drop targets are very different from any other manufacturer&#039;s design.  Unlike Bally, Stern, or Gottlieb, the Williams drop target is a meaty, reinforced plastic which is fairly consistent in thickness and width throughout the target.  Williams does not use a face with a long neck stemmed down in size.  The benefit to this design is that breakage is minimized.  The downside to this design is extra added weight.  There are several other design differences too, such as the compression spring used to pull the target down.  It is physically screwed to the front of the drop target plastic, as opposed to being attached via a molded &amp;quot;hook&amp;quot; like other manufacturers.  This too is a plus, because the molded hooks on other drop target systems are prone to breakage.  However, probably the most recognizable difference is the drop target switch design.  On the back side of a Williams drop target, a switch triggering mechanism in the form of a copper horseshoe with two contacts is physically screwed to the plastic.  The combination of the horseshoe contacts and discrete circuit boards for each target mounted to the bank of the bank are what is used to detect the three states of the drop target position.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS Drop Anim.GIF|150px|thumb|left|Simulation of the three different states of a Williams drop target]]&lt;br /&gt;
A simulation of the operation of a Williams drop target switch can be viewed at the animation located to the left. As mentioned before, the horseshoe contact is attached to the backside of the drop target plastic.  The horseshoe contact makes physical contact with the thick copper or tinned traces of the circuit board, which is secured to the backside of the drop target bank.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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An explanation of the three different states of the drop target are:&lt;br /&gt;
#When the horseshoe contact is located at the uppermost set of traces, the first frame in the animation, the drop target is in the upright position (fully reset).&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the drop target face is struck by the ball, the drop target plastic is pushed from the metal ledge of the metal drop target frame.  As the drop target falls, the horseshoe contacts slide over a second set of traces on the circuit board, as seen in the second frame of the animation.  These contacts are tied to the switch matrix via a switch strobe and return line respectively.  The switch strobe line is common to all drop targets in the bank, while each drop target in a bank will have its own switch return line.  Each switch pair is used for scoring purposes.&lt;br /&gt;
#Finally, the drop target will fully drop, and the contacts come to rest on a third set of traces on the circuit board.  This set of traces is tied in series from one drop target circuit board to the other.  Because the pairs of traces for each target are tied together in series, a switch, secondary to the individual scoring switches is used.  Once all of the targets in the bank are dropped, the series switch circuit is complete.  The switch matrix detects this as a single switch closure.  In turn, the drop target bank is reset.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drop Bank Marked.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Switch solder points identified on a drop target bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the maze of similar-colored wires on the back of a Williams first generation drop target bank, it can be somewhat intimidating as to what wire goes where.  The switch return lines (white wires with colored traces) attach to the solder tabs of the eyelets.  Likewise, the non-banded side of the diode attaches to the same solder tab of the eyelet.  The switch strobe line (green wire with a colored trace) can be attached to any of the points circled in green.  On the bank in the adjacent pic, the switch strobe wire was attached to the green circled area on the far right.  The black and gray wires are sometimes substituted with different colors like yellow.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Second Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Leaf Drops.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Typical second generation Williams drop target bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Black Knight, Williams slightly changed the design of the drop target bank.  Instead of using horseshoe contacts and circuit boards for switch detection on each drop target, the horseshoe contacts were replaced with a copper leaf spring and the discrete circuit boards were replaced with leaf switch stacks.  Detecting when all the drop targets down was now handled via software.  There are subtle physical differences in the drop target plastic.  The most obvious difference is the thickness of the bottom of the drop target.  The thickness was increased to compensate for the use of bottom mounted leaf switches.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Third Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+++ Need pic of drop target bank with microswitches +++&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The third and final generation of System 3-7 drop target banks are essentially the same as the second generation.  The main difference is that microswitches were used to detect when a drop target drops versus leaf switches.&lt;br /&gt;
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==Additional Diagnostics - Pincoder test ROMs==&lt;br /&gt;
A comprehensive set of free, third party diagnostic/test ROMs can be found here: http://pincoder.ca&lt;br /&gt;
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These ROMs can be used in-game to test individual components of your pinball machine. Additionally, the RAM and CMOS tests thoroughly check all addressable locations within each chip, resulting in extremely accurate results.&lt;br /&gt;
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Support for these ROMs can be found on Pinside here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-williams-system-6-in-game-test-roms&lt;br /&gt;
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=Recommended Modifications=&lt;br /&gt;
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==Additional Fuses==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6_Fused_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Firepower)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 3-7 Fused Bridges Inline Butt Connectors.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Inline fuse holders installed with solderless crimp butt connectors]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams failed to include fuses in the AC connection between the transformer secondary and the solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers. In theory, the primary power fuse should blow if one of these bridges short. However, this is not always the case. Sometimes, the bridges short in such a manner that the wiring from the transformer secondary to the bridge becomes the fuse, and the wiring insulation melts until something gives. &lt;br /&gt;
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This problem can be addressed by adding 2 fuse blocks and two 8 amp slo-blo fuses. For each bridge, afuse is added between either transformer secondary wire and the bridge. The AC inputs to the bridge are both marked with a &#039;tilde&#039; on the BR which looks like an &#039;S&#039; on it&#039;s side:   &#039;&#039;&#039;~&#039;&#039;&#039;.  The wire colors are typically red for solenoids, and blue for the controlled lamps.  However, it is best to consult the game schematics to confirm.&lt;br /&gt;
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Although the preferred method is to put fuse holders on the backbox wall, installing fuses in any configuration is paramount. One way is to use inline fuse holders, and solderless crimp butt connectors. This is a quick and easy alternative, even though it may not be the prettiest solution.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:FirePowerAdditionalFusing.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The Firepower schematics, updated to include two 8ASB fuses between the transformer secondary and both the solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams incorporated an 8A normal-blo fuse in later games (Big Guns and newer), while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses.&lt;br /&gt;
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A nice solution for this problem is the Inkochnito Bridge Board that can be found at this link: http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information. &lt;br /&gt;
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System 3 and System 4 games did not incorporate a fuse for the 9.3VAC supply lines. If either diode D7 or D8 shorts, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;something&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; in the circuit will act as a fuse. Sometimes, a board trace acts as a fuse under these conditions. It is much, much better to add two 4 amp slo-blo fuses directly after the transformer, just as Williams did when System 6 games were introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
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==MPU Batteries &amp;amp; Memory==&lt;br /&gt;
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===Relocating the batteries away from the MPU board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|120px|thumb|left|Leaking Battery]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3xAA batteries from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
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If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; is displayed in the credit/match display, rather than the game going into attract mode, then the game is in audits mode:&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the 5101 CMOS RAM (check Test Point TP7, which should measure 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v (or so) with the power off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking Diode D18 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There is another problem holding settings, such as a faulty 5101 CMOS RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
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Simply removing the batteries is not really an option as the game will not boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on. It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (usually obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores  It&#039;s possible on System 3-7 games to switch the game off, and then quickly back on to go from the &#039;04 00 audit mode&#039; to attract mode. Credits would still need to be added by the coin switches.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Remote Battery Pack===&lt;br /&gt;
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One option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board (see driver board pic below). Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
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Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea, so the pack can easily remove the battery pack from the board. Plus, it the batteries are forgotten and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. Another solution is to buy a battery holder with the &#039;transistor radio&#039; type connector which can be snapped on and off. Just be very careful if using this style of connector. Adding a tag noting that a &#039;&#039;&#039;9 volt battery should never be connected&#039;&#039;&#039; is a very good idea. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement. If only a 4 x AA battery holder is a available, a diode or jumper can be soldered in the first position. A diode is the preferred approach, as this will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D17 on the MPU board fails. Keep in mind that an added secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the 5101, if D17 is still good. Locate a 1N4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the Red wire and towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
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The game takes 3 x AA Batteries, so it uses at least 4.5v total. However, it will still store settings down to about 3v or so. After that an AA battery&#039;s life will taper off very quickly. A fresh set of batteries should last for at least a year, or the is some other issue. If the 5101 CMOS RAM is socketed, it&#039;s possible that it isn&#039;t the low power version. Or, possibly the D17 diode has shorted.&lt;br /&gt;
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The images below illustrate how to install the wiring for battery packs on the different MPU Boards.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS_sys4_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 4 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS_sys6a_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 6 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 6(a) MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Top Right pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Bottom Left.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS_sys7_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 7 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 7 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&lt;br /&gt;
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After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board. All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; can be somewhat common. Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
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Another good practice, while the MPU board is already out, is to check the D17 blocking diode. An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the 5101 non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective. Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack. This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on. If Alkaline batteries are charged, they will be damaged and fail, leak, or (in extreme cases) explode. Testing the D17 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out. When in doubt, replace the D17 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack. Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5101, if D17 is still good.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Wms drvr bat dam.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Alkaline Damaged Williams Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to remotely relocate the batteries from the MPU board, unless using a lithium replacement. The potential is there for not only the MPU to become damaged, but other associated boards in the backbox. The pic to the left is a prime example of extended damage. The damage occurred in this instance, because the shuffle bowler this board came from was stored with the batteries still on the MPU board for an extended period of time (roughly 5-8 years). It&#039;s a costly shame, because this was an otherwise decent, clean, working driver board. The amount of repairs which have to be performed now are going to be extensive.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Installing a Lithium Coin Cell Battery Backup===&lt;br /&gt;
An alternate solution to a remotely located battery pack is to use a single CR2032 battery and holder mounted on the MPU. Lithium button batteries do leak, although not nearly as commonly or as severe as alkaline batteries. And, since the battery will be contained in a holder mounted above the PCB, there is little risk of corrosion attacking the board. &lt;br /&gt;
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The holder and replacement batteries are inexpensive.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The following photo gallery shows the installation procedure.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This method can be adapted to work with all Williams System 3-7 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 4 MPU Coin Cell Installation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-1.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Small hole drilled at intersection of holder pin &amp;quot;arc&amp;quot; and trace on board solder side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-2.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Battery holder installed, front side. Note the &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; soldered between the top left and top right battery holder holes.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-3.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Battery holder installed, rear side. Note the negative connection marked lower right and the path of the positive connection.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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===Installing a Memory Capacitor (SuperCap) Instead of Batteries===&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor.  In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is minimal compared to a rechargeable battery.  When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor.  When the game is turned off, the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time.  Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again.  If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&lt;br /&gt;
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====System 3/4====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-4SuperCap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|5.5V 1F Memory Capacitor Added to a System 3 MPU Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a SuperCap, the polarity of the cap needs to match the battery pad polarity. Connect the negative lead of the cap to ground. In the picture at left, the old top center battery holder connection was leveraged as an attach point. A jumper (not shown) on the back of the board connects from there to the edge of board ground. &lt;br /&gt;
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Connect the positive lead to the the upper right battery holder connection through hole.&lt;br /&gt;
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Remove D18 and replace with a 100ohm 1/4W resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
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Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, leave the game powered on to allow the game to charge the capacitor fully. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes allows the capacitor to recharge.&lt;br /&gt;
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====System 6====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Mem Cap.JPG|300px|thumb|left|5.5V 1.5F Memory Capacitor Added to a System 6 MPU Board. Labels added to help locate parts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a SuperCap, the polarity of the cap needs to match the battery pad polarity. Connect the negative lead of the cap to ground. Connect the positive lead to the banded side of diode D18 (1N5817).  The picture to the left shows a jumper added to connect the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 6 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
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As an alternative to running the positive lead of the cap to diode D18, the positive cap lead is installed in the positive battery terminal. The diode at D17 (1N4148) is removed, and a 100ohm resistor (or similar value) replaces the diode. Adding a resistor in place of D17 allows the game to charge the capacitor.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, leave the game powered on to allow the game to charge the capacitor fully. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes allows the capacitor to recharge. If the cap is losing its charge rapidly, diode D18 may be faulty, and should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
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====System 7====&lt;br /&gt;
Follow these steps to add a SuperCap to a System 7 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a 1/16&amp;quot; hole NorthWest of the upper right positive battery terminal solder pad. The distance from the positive battery terminal hole should be the width of the SuperCap leads. The hole will be pierce a large ground trace on the solder side of the board (right hand image).&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the SuperCap positive lead through the battery terminal solder pad. &lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the SuperCap negative lead to the ground trace on the solder side of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove diode D17, a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a 100ohm (or thereabouts) 1/4W resistor in place of D17. Polarity is not important as resistors have no polarity.&lt;br /&gt;
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The following images demonstrate the procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 7 MPU SuperCap Installation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1/16&amp;quot; hole drilled for the negative &amp;quot;leg&amp;quot; of the SuperCap.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The SuperCap and 100ohm resistor installed.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The solder side of the board showing SuperCap connections.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Installing NVRAM ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NVRAM (non-volatile RAM) can be used in all Williams System 3 through 7 MPUs. By installing NVRAM, batteries will never, ever, be required to retain game settings and high scores. The possibility of spewing alkaline onto the board is eliminated. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 3-7 games, the 5101 RAM chip is always at IC19, although the actual physical position of IC19 on the MPU differs between the systems. Unfortunately, the 5101 RAM is &#039;&#039;&#039;always&#039;&#039;&#039; soldered directly onto the board. It must be desoldered and replaced with a 22-pin 0.3&amp;quot; width socket to accommodate the NVRAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NVRAM are discussed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=MPU_Battery_Replacement_Options#Products here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Improving the Early System 3 Flipper Response==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the early solid state games, Williams re-used the flipper mechanism from their electromechanical games. This design, composed of multiple pieces screwed to the bottom of the playfield, is functional but somewhat clunky in operation. There are those that advocate scrapping the mechanism and replacing it with modern Williams baseplate design flippers. While this certainly works, and provides a much nicer flipper response, it also costs money for new parts when the old parts can be made to work reasonably well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, rebuild the flipper assembly with fresh parts. This includes the coil stops, plunger and links, coil sleeves, EOS switches, cabinet switches, and pawls (if needed). Pinball Resource has all these parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This leaves a functional, reasonably strong, but &#039;clunky&#039; flipper. It will work, but it will not seem as &#039;snappy&#039; and &#039;fast&#039; as a modern game. While the modern (WPC) baseplate style flipper mechanism is nice, the most important change is actually not the baseplate, it is the modern flipper bat itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a slight difference in mass between the original bat at 1.5 oz and the new bat at a little under 1 oz, but what accounts for the difference is the way the mass is distributed. On the old flipper design, a heavy metal base is welded to the shaft, and the plastic bat is screwed to the base. On the new design, the plastic bat is simply molded to the shaft, eliminating the base entirely.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams Flipper Bat Comparison&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 3 flipper bat assembly (two-piece)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat4.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams molded flipper bat assembly&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper coil is energized, it begins accelerating the plunger, pulling it in to the centre of the coil. This acceleration is transmitted to the shaft via the crank, accelerating the flipper bat. In this rotational acceleration of the bat, the further the mass is from the centre of the shaft, the more work required to accelerate it, and the slower the rate of acceleration. (Incidentally, this is why magnesium wheels first became popular in drag racing; they are lighter than steel wheels and increase the car&#039;s rate of acceleration. It does not change the car&#039;s top speed, but it does reduce the time it takes the car to reach top speed, making it quicker.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of the coil&#039;s power stroke, the plunger slams in to the coil stop, rapidly decelerating. In turn, then, the link, crank, and flipper bat also slam in to the previous part and rapidly decelerate. In this part of the action, the higher mass of the old flipper bat has more momentum, and due to the location of that mass, has more leverage to apply the force of the momentum. This leads to a hard clunk as all of that mass slams to a stop, and often results in a flipper bat that &#039;bounces&#039; at the end of stroke.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The solution to both of these is to reduce the mass of the flipper bat, especially reducing it as far from the centre line of the flipper shaft as possible. Looking at the options, there are only three pieces to the flipper bat. The plastic bat is not really easily modified to reduce any serious mass. The screw that holds the plastic bat to the base is not easy to reduce in mass, and being located close to the centre line of the flipper shaft, it has very little effect on the operation. That leaves the flipper shaft and its welded on base.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The shaft itself has significant mass, but the mass of the shaft is located very close to the centre line, so it can be ignored as well. That, then, leaves the base. Here there is quite a lot of mass, and much of it is located a good distance from the centre line of the flipper shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First remove the plastic shoe from the bat (there is a single screw underneath the bat). Then screw the metal bat to a piece of scrap wood, and drill the metal bat baseplate to remove metal. This is easiest to do neatly with a drill press. Drill two 5/16&amp;quot; hole near the shaft, and progressively  smaller holes toward the tip. A total of seven holes can be drilled: 5/16&amp;quot;, 5/16&amp;quot;, 1/4&amp;quot;, 7/32&amp;quot;, 3/16&amp;quot;, 5/32&amp;quot;, 1/8&amp;quot;. These holes remove about 1/2 oz from the flipper bat assembly without significantly affecting its strength or durability. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 3 Flipper Bat Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Drilling the flipper bat shoe&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Flipper bat shoe after being drilled&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reassemble the flipper bat, install, and enjoy. The flippers should feel snappier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Problems and Fixes=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FirePowerCrossConnect.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|These two FirePower connectors are clearly misconnected as can be seen by different wire colors entering and leaving the connector pair. The connector colors should not be trusted. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Kevin Scholbe&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU and/or driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Advanced Diagnostic Tool by Pincoder==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
An advanced diagnostic tool with full (downloadable) documentation and active support is available here: [https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/ Pincoder Adapter]. The Adapter simply plugs into the MPU board right out of the box and can be used in-game for all tests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Built In Diagnostics==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3DiagnosticButtonCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diagnostic switch location on a WMS System 3 MPU]]The built in diagnostics of the Williams System 3 - 7 board set are extremely limited. The board set either powers up or it doesn&#039;t. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two diagnostic LEDs on the MPU (system 7 MPUs feature a 7 segment display). However, the usefulness of these LEDs is at best limited and generally just confusing. A properly booting System 3-6 game will flash both LEDs once, and then the LEDs will remain off. This flash is a bit longer than a flicker, staying on for about 1/2 second. A properly booting System 7 game will flash a zero on the 7 segment display. The 7 segment display will then go blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the Diagnostic button on a properly functioning System 3 - 6 MPU will cause both LEDs to flash twice in unison and then go off. If the bottom LED remains on, the game software is indicating a ROM failure. If the top LED remains on, the game software is indicating a RAM failure (6810). And if both LEDs remain on, the game software is indicating a CMOS RAM failure (5101). However, the accuracy of this test is questionable since the game software must be functioning properly for the test report to be valid and the game software requires ROM and RAM to function in the first place. The short advice is: don&#039;t rely on this diagnostic test result.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the Diagnostic button on a properly functioning System 7 MPU will cause the 7 segment display to flash a zero and then go blank. System 7 diagnostics are a bit more useful than prior Williams game systems but are still not 100% trustworthy. If the MPU built-in-test software detects a problem with the game hardware, the 7 segment display will remain on with an error code displayed. Possible error codes are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*0 - and then goes out...all tests passed&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - IC13 RAM or IC20 ROM failed&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - IC16 RAM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - IC17 ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - IC17 ROM failure (duplicated test...yes)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - IC20 ROM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - IC14 Game ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - IC26 Game ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*8 - IC19 (5101) RAM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
*9 - IC19 (5101 again) RAM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;To test displays, lamps, coils and switches for System 3 and 4 games, follow this procedure first, then proceed to the System 6-7 procedure below .&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Entering the familiar diagnostic mode of later game systems is a bit less intuitive with a System 3 or 4 game. To enter diagnostics, press the diagnostic button on the MPU once. This is the lower of the two buttons as pictured at left. Both LEDs should flash and all displays will go blank. At this point, the game is ready to accept new game settings like &amp;quot;balls per play&amp;quot; via the obtuse and ridiculous to use dip switches on the MPU. Skipping over the process that essentially amounts to &amp;quot;memory pokes&amp;quot; (who remembers that), the diagnostics can now be controlled from the front door switches. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is in the MANUAL position, pressing the ADVANCE button will cause each score display to show all zeros. The next press will show all ones, etc. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is in the AUTO position, pressing the ADVANCE button will cause the score displays to begin cycling, starting with all zeros, then all ones, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating System 3 and 4 game diagnostic entry can be found &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;[https://youtu.be/Bq7Bubb5X6w here]&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7CoinDoorSwitches.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3 - 7 Coin Door Switches]]&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;For System 6-7 games, follow this procedure to test displays, lamps, coils and switches.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the AUTO/MANUAL switch in the MANUAL position, press the ADVANCE button. This will cause each score display to show all zeros. Pressing the ADVANCE button again will display all ones, etc. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is moved to the AUTO position, the score displays will advance automatically through each of the digits (zero through 9). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the AUTO/MANUAL switch still in the AUTO position, press the ADVANCE button to advance to the next test. The match portion of the credit/match display will show &amp;quot;01&amp;quot; and all playfield lamps will begin to cycle on/off. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing ADVANCE again will display &amp;quot;02&amp;quot; in the match window, and the game will begin an ordered activation of each coil in sequence (including buzzers, flashers, etc). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing ADVANCE again will display &amp;quot;03&amp;quot; in the match window. This is &amp;quot;switch test&amp;quot; mode. If no switches are closed, the credit half of the credit/match window will be blank. Closing a switch will result in the switch number being displayed in the credit window. If more than one switch is closed when switch test begins, the number of each switch will be displayed once in the credit window. After that point, only closing a switch will cause it&#039;s number to be displayed. i.e. switch test does not cycle through all closed switches but instead displays ONLY the last switch closure detected (at least in System 3 games).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the ADVANCE button one more time displays &amp;quot;04&amp;quot; in the match window, and game status information is displayed in sequence, automatically for system 3 and 4 games and by pressing the advance button for system 6 and 7 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Quick Start: Repairing a Williams System 3-7 MPU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The procedure for repairing a Williams MPU is outlined below. More detail can be found later in this document.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace the power header at 1J2, which is located on the left side of the MPU. The cornerstone of a well running MPU is clean, consistent power. Tarnished connections, worn connections that have exceeded the mate cycle spec, and cracked header pin solder joints all negatively impact power.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If the OEM chip sockets are still on the board, replace them with quality twin leaf or machine pin sockets. Good chip sockets will ensure rock solid connections between the ICs and the various busses.  Always replace Scanbe and white Molex sockets - no exceptions!&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:OEMROMs.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The ROM on the right in this picture has obviously been heat stressed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Examine the 40-pin male connector closely. If it exhibits any of the following characteristics, replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
*Tarnished pins&lt;br /&gt;
*Corroded pins (due to batteries on the MPU leaking corrosive alkaline)&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured solder joints&lt;br /&gt;
*Solder joint “craters”, i.e. an attempt to “reflow” the solder joint that doesn’t adhere to the pin very well.  The solder surrounds the pins, but does not create a solid electrical connection to the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Verify the ROM contents. The OEM ROMs at least 30 years old, and have been subjected to thousands of hours of heat, consequently reducing their reliability. Replacing them with known good ROMs is a better option if possible.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Measure power coming onto the board at the filter capacitor. About 5VDC should be present, with very little AC component (measure AC too).&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Test socketed processors and PIAs in a known working board. AMI branded chips seem to experience a much higher failure rate than any other brand and are always suspect.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use a logic probe to test the processor reset signal at pin 40. The signal should start low at power on, then go high a split second later.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;With a schematic of the board handy, “sanity check” each pin on the processor to ensure each leg is doing something that makes sense. i.e. data lines D0-D7 should be pulsing.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Make certain the blanking signal goes high and remains high almost immediately after successful MPU boot. The blanking signal is easily tested at pin 37 of the 40-pin interconnect board.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Install Leon’s test ROM to verify processor, PIA, and memory operation.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Further Recommended Reliability Improvements===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace all headers. Reflowing solder does not create a solid mechanical or electrical connection.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace masked ROMs with new ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
#Update the MPU to use fewer sockets. i.e. use a 2716 (or double the image into a 2732) at IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the backup battery to a remote location or install NVRAM. Batteries should be removed from the MPU board as soon as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding System 3-6-like Diagnostic LEDs to a System 7 MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7DiagnosticLEDAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diagram depicting addition of 2 LEDs and 2 resistors that provide the same function as System 3-6 MPU boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7FactoryLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A System 7 MPU with factory installed diagnostic LEDs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 7 MPUs replaced the two diagnostic LEDs of past systems with a 7-Segment LED display to provide diagnostic indications. At times, the 7447 driver IC or the 7-segment LED display itself can fail. Or perhaps running system 3-6 software in the board, while retaining the LED diagnostic capability, is the objective. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rather than replacing the 7-Segment display or 7447, adding System 3-7-like LEDs to the MPU is easy. Procure 2 standard LEDs and two 1/4 watt resistors of any value between 100 ohms and 560 ohms. Incrementally higher ohm resistors will dim the LEDs incrementally, but can still be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Add two resistors on the right-most pads as pictured at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add two LEDs to the top two available pads as pictured at left, with the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; (the short leg or anode) oriented toward the 7-segment display. It&#039;s as easy as that.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Quick Start: Repairing a Williams System 3-7 Driver Board==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The detailed procedures for repairing a Williams driver board can be found later in this document.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace the 40-pin female interconnect. Due to fatigue and/or battery damage (alkaline corrosion), this connector can and will become unreliable over time.  Replace it.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Remove and reflow the solder on &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;*all*&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the header pin connectors.  Another choice is to replace the connectors with new ones.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace all suspect chip sockets. PIAs on the driver board were the only chips socketed from the factory on this board. However, the factory used crappy Scanbe sockets for these chips. If Scanbe sockets are present, replace them.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Inspect the PIA chips.  If AMI chips were used, suspect eventual, premature failure.  Replace if possible.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If the factory 3 watt current limiting resistors in the lamp matrix appear heat damaged, replace them with 27 ohm 5 watt resistors. &amp;quot;Sand&amp;quot; resistors are a good replacement choice.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If heavy heat damage is present in the vicinity of the lamp matrix power resistors, suspect potential failure of the lamp matrix ICs (IC13 &amp;amp; IC14) located just above the resistors.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing==&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes it is more beneficial to do testing / troubleshooting while the MPU and / or driver boards are outside of the game.  It&#039;s unfortunate, but the System 3-7 boards were designed in such a way that both the MPU and driver board have to be attached to one another for the MPU to effectively boot and function.  Since the driver board has no intelligence located on it, it needs to be connected to the MPU to be of any use.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 On Bench.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS System 6 MPU and Driver Board Powered by a PC Power Supply.  Power connections are attached to the readily available test points on the MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Bench Power.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS System 7 MPU and Driver Board Powered by a PC Power Supply.  Power connections are attached to IJ2 on the MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The voltages needed to power a System 3-7 board pair on the bench are +5v, +12v, and ground.  Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on 1J2 (only header connection on left side of MPU board).  The connections are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1-3 (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 4- 6  (+5 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 (+12 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If connecting a &#039;&#039;&#039;System 6 or 7 board pair&#039;&#039;&#039;, it is easier to connect to the test points.  The connections are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 1 (+12 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 9 (+5 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 10 (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that test points 9 and 10 have different locations between a System 6 and 7 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting a Logic Probe to the Williams System 3-7 MPU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3LogicProbeConnection.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Connecting a logic probe to a System 3-7 MPU. This picture is a System 3 MPU.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6LogicProbeConnection.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method to connect a logic probe on a System 6/6A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The easiest way to power the logic probe is across the input power&#039;s electrolytic filter cap, as shown on this Williams System 3 board at left.&lt;br /&gt;
All MPUs, including Systems 3, 4, 6, 6A, and 7, feature this cap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU and driver board logic are electrically connected and powered by the same source, connecting the probe to the MPU allows probing driver board logic also.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Connectors, connectors, connectors==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms cracked solder joints.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Cracked solder joints on the header pins of a Williams driver board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With this era of game, most of them 30+ years old now, and they will have problems with connectors. One of the most common issues is cracked solder joints on header pin connections to the PCBs. Some cracks are more obvious than others, while some can only be seen clearly under proper magnification.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms header solder removed.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Solder removed from the header pins of a Williams driver board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Although it can be somewhat time consuming and a tedious chore, it is best to remove the old solder from a header pin joint, and then add new, fresh solder. Performing this procedure is a necessity on these games to ensure reliability. The other option is removing the header pin connection completely, and replace with a new one.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game starts to reset for no reason during play, or when both flippers are engaged, it may be worth first re-pinning the connectors at 1J2 on the MPU Board and at the outputs from the PSU. This is always a good step even if it does not fix the immediate issue, as it avoids power problems later on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This will involves replacing the header pins on the PSU board and the female connectors on the cables. The pins are .156&amp;quot; and square pins are preferred, although round are still available. Use phosphor bronze. On the female side, crimp pins of the trifuricon type are best. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Second prize goes to reflowing solder to the back of the header pins, and just replacing the female IDC connectors with new ones. In that case rather than a crimper, the .156&amp;quot; &#039;punch-down&#039; tool &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;must&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; be used for this replacement to work correctly. If the correct tool is not used, the IDC housing and pins will be damaged, especially if a screwdriver or some other makeshift tool is used. After that, the wires just don&#039;t seat correctly and will not maintain proper contact. Always cut back to clean wire and punch down correctly to a new IDC connector, reusing an old one rarely works.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the connector is a .156&amp;quot; 9-way connector at 1J2. There is also a &#039;key&#039; pin where the hole is blanked off on the connectors and the pin cut off flush with the board. This prevents plugging the power in to say the switch matrix or swapping two connectors over. It&#039;s easiest to just buy a bag of these for blanking off the &#039;key&#039; positions, rather than try to re-use old ones.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Wiring Connector Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7BlownICs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Socketed and replaced ICs blown by incorrect connector hookup.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams made a poor wiring harness design decision with this series of games that allows the cabinet harness to be connected to the head harness (36 pin inline connectors). Mating these connectors incorrectly will short the 28V solenoid circuit to the logic voltage level circuit, destroying ICs on the MPU and perhaps the driver board. Always be sure to double check connector pin counts and colors, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;but most importantly,&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; wire colors going into and out of both sides of the connector. Connector color is not a 100% reliable indicator as Williams sometimes used white connectors, sometimes used black connectors for both, and sometimes may even have used one black and one white connector. Wire colors should always match up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A real world example on a System 7 Jungle Lord, pictured at left, resulted in MPU IC7 (7404), IC32 (7400), and IC12 (7408) being blown. The 5101 wasn&#039;t destroyed. On the driver board, IC16 (7406) was also damaged. The amount of damage can vary, however, other instances suggest a similar path of destruction. The best course of action should this occur is to spend a lot of time with a DMM in diode test, checking each individual IC. Socketed ICs, like the 5101 and the 6808/2 can be easily tested in a known working system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 7 MPU Board Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
Diagnostics, and the &#039;System 7 MPU Board won&#039;t boot&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Forget about getting anything at all on the Player Displays without having working ROMs in place and a good MPU board.  Blanking has to go &#039;high&#039; before the displays will work.  So coin door game diagnostics are useless until the MPU board runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But help is at hand on the System 7 MPU, Williams added a single 7 segment LED display to the board. To get anything at all on the 7 segment display LED on the MPU, these conditions must be met:&lt;br /&gt;
* The 74LS47 Display Driver IC34 to be working.&lt;br /&gt;
* The  6821 PIA (at IC18) on the MPU responsible for driving the score displays to be working.&lt;br /&gt;
* The logic +5v to be good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally when a properly functioning board boots, the 7 segment LED display will flash &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; briefly and then the display is turned off, and remains off. If within a game, the game would then be in attract mode if everything was perfect.  Pressing diagnostics should show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and then return to attract mode with the LED display blank.  [ed Note: Correct me if that is wrong]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the above-mentioned chips are installed and working and the sockets have been replaced or tested good:&lt;br /&gt;
* With no ROMs installed, a board with a fault or a ROM fault if they are installed, the &amp;quot;top two&amp;quot; LEDs (if there) would be lit and the LED display would show &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.  The MPU board is &#039;locked up&#039;, in that condition.&lt;br /&gt;
* Display Driver PIA IC PA4 - PA7 will be high.  Pressing the * Diagnostic switch will not change things.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then an OS is needed, which is the &#039;Flipper ROMs&#039; in pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
When they &#039;Boot&#039; (provide a set of instructions to the CPU)- even with the Game ROM removed, the fist thing they do is to &amp;quot;turn off&amp;quot; the LEDs 1+2 and so the onboard LED display (7447) would then go blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fact, &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; should flash once and go blank.  That means the board is not locked and at least booted the OS.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Installing a good Game ROM after that may provide access to the diagnostics if everything is working up to this point.  Pressing the diagnostic switch should then provide a (hopefully) valid indication of what component is stopping the (pinball or whatever) from running. Here are the key indications (for System 7, Sys 8&amp;amp;9 may be similar):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These results can appear with error conditions by using the Flipper and Game ROMs, or the 2532 WMS Test ROM in IC17 (on Sys 7 boards):&lt;br /&gt;
If all the support chips are good, and one &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; flash appears and then goes blank, then the on-board error display can be trusted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;&#039;Press the diagnostic button, the numbers are:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; |System 7 LED Diagnostics&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Meaning&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|0 || Test Passed (only if display goes blank)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || IC13 RAM Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || IC16 RAM Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || IC17 ROM 2 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || IC17 ROM 2 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || IC20 ROM I Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || IC14 Game ROM 1 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || IC26 Game ROM 0 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || IC19 CMOS RAM or memory protect circuit faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || Coin-door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or IC19 CMOS RAM Faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Getting a 0 and remaining on could potentially be that the CPU / board has not successfully reset.  In other words, no instructions have been passed to and from the CPU chip.  This problem could be due to a faulty reset circuit.  The lack of +12v on the MPU board can cause this too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Getting an 8 or 9 is *good* indication - it means the board is almost there!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some further tips about those conditions:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8  - MPU board may be good. Is it looking for the Driver Board?  (Like the missing 7th flash on a Bally MPU).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure the Driver Board is connected and the &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; interconnect has continuity on all pins.&lt;br /&gt;
From System 8 on there is no interconnect... so by System 9 MPU and Driverboard (and Sound!) are all one PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then suspect that IC19 RAM is faulty or finally a memory protect fault.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9 - First check for coin door closed (or pin 1J4-1 or 1J3-1 is being grounded), then is IC7 faulty? Finally is IC19 RAM faulty?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is displayed, it may be tempting to install it in a game, open the coin door, and try and boot up. But this is wrong, as there still is a problem on the board. Either the IC19 5101 CMOS Ram is faulty, or another memory protect component is faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remember to do the &amp;quot;switch on, off and back on again quick&amp;quot; trick to see attract mode appears when reinstalling in a game after taking an MPU out. Many times, that does the trick.  Also, if removing the Driver Board and reinserting it on the MPU board &#039;fixes&#039; the problems and the boards will then boot correctly, then it points to the &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; connector needing to be replaced.  Both header pins on the MPU and sockets on the Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Parts:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 7-Segment display can be replaced with a KINGBRIGHT  SA03-12HDB  LED  0.3&amp;quot;  RED  DISPLAY.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5101 CMOS RAM.  5101-1 The low power version is needed, as it needs battery backup to hold RAM contents when the game is powered off.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A 6821 PIA is a standard part. MC6821 MC68B21 are common.  The 6820 designation is much earlier but also works.  Other designations:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
xx6821, xx68A21, xx68B21, where xx can be MC (Motorola) or HD (Hitachi Data) will all work.  The &#039;A&#039; in 68A21 means the PIA will run at up to a 1.5Mhz Clock , the &#039;B&#039; in 68B21 means up to a 2Mhz clock, without any letter is up to 1MHz. Any final letter is Package type (P,S or L)  P=Plastic S=Cerdip and L=Ceramic.  Any of the above speeds or package types will work for this era of pinball, so the letters can be ignored and any 6820 or 6821 can be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Chip Sockets==&lt;br /&gt;
Reliable socket connections are a requirement for any printed circuit board to work as designed. Old sockets, as discussed below, should be replaced.  Use extreme care in desoldering the old sockets, the traces and pads on circuit boards are easily lifted, especially if any battery corrosion is in the area.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The chip sockets on old Williams boards (also most any board of this era) are long past their reliable lifetimes. They may work, but they may also cause intermittent connections that will have you chasing your tail tracking down odd problems with the game. Like the 40-pin interconnect used in Williams System 3-7 games, these sockets should always be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Perhaps the most maligned socket brand, and rightfully so, is the Scanbe brand. In the picture below, it can be seen why. These 30+ year old sockets passed the point of reliability many years ago. Included in the Scanbe socket picture below are two pins pulled from a Scanbe socket. The pins were designed to grip the SIDES of the IC legs, unlike the design of modern sockets that grip the front and back faces of the IC leg. Get rid of them now.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later, WMS switched to sockets made by Augat or Raychem (all Tyco now). They occasionally go bad, but they can usually be left alone. But there is another type made by Molex which should also be replaced if it is found on a PCB. When looking at the picture below, it can be seen why. Curvy isn&#039;t it? And the contacts break easily too. Not as bad as the Scanbe but not much better either.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=5 caption=&amp;quot;Poor quality and old sockets found on many early pinball machine circuit boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Speech Scanbe Socket.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;It&#039;s hard to believe that these sockets ever worked.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Scanbe Removal.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A Scanbe socket being removed from circuit board by gently prying it up.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ScanbeSocket.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Closeup of the infamous &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; brand socket. &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; is molded into the top of the socket face.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ScanBeSocketPins.jpg ‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Closeup of &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; socket pins. Surface contact area was small from the factory.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSMolexSocket.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Another bad socket type usually found in system 7 pcbs. This one was made by Molex.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Voltages==&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board needs two voltages to boot: +12v which only the MPU uses for the reset circuit, and +5v (logic power) for the MPU and Driverboard IC chips.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game goes dead, but the sound board continues to work then there may be a fault with the PSU, power connections to the MPU, blanking or the reset circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for sounds by pressing the sound board diagnostic test.  The game will need to bed switched off &amp;amp; back on to cancel the looping sound test.  The sound board has its own PSU.  It takes 18v AC directly from the transformer and makes +12v (reset) +5v ( logic) and also -12v (Speech and  mixers). It&#039;s probably OK to assume the +5v and +12v going to the MPU (and Driver Board) are OK from the PSU if the sound board boots and runs.  It&#039;s like a mini MPU, with the same CPU and one PIA chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main PSU board only needs to make the first two, +12v and +5v (no -12v) for the MPU and Driver board.  But it also generates DC power for the flippers and the solenoids (+28v DC or so).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Power Supply Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
The key thing to remember is that the PSU board is made up of separate output circuits combined on one board.  They don&#039;t interact, and are in order:  &lt;br /&gt;
* +18v for Lamps,&lt;br /&gt;
* +28v Solenoids (and Flippers), &lt;br /&gt;
* Regulated +5v for logic B+ and an unregulated +12v for CPU reset, &lt;br /&gt;
* +/- 100v HV supply for the Displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We&#039;re not counting the G.I. (General Illumination) circuit as it is AC only and is fused on the fuse card below the PSU.  It only passes through the PSU board to be fused and controlled with a relay starting from System 7 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Input AC power gets to the PSU board directly from the transformer for the +5v/+12v and the display voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
However, in the case of the Lamp and Solenoid voltages AC is &#039;full wave&#039; rectified (to DC) &#039;&#039;before reaching the PSU board&#039;&#039;.  This is done using two Bridge Rectifiers BR1 for Lamps (to the Right of the backbox) and BR2 for Solenoids and Flippers (to the Left of the backbox).&lt;br /&gt;
  &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lamp Voltage Supplies:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* The  +18v DC Lamp voltage passes through a very large &#039;blue can&#039; filter capacitor between the BR and the PSU board.  This  &#039;smooths out the &#039;bumps&#039; (called AC ripple ) in the DC waveform.  &lt;br /&gt;
** Because the MPU Controlled Lamps (for the inserts) are strobed by the Lamp Matrix, the resultant voltage to the bulbs is &amp;quot;averaged down&amp;quot; to about 6v DC.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Lamps are rated at 6.3v and 250mA for #44 Bulbs (so 1/4 Amp) or 150mA for #47 Bulbs (about 1/7 of an Amp).  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Because they use less power, #47 bulbs will generate less heat.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Replace any shiny &#039;silvered&#039; bulbs and any that say 0.3A as they burn way too hot and will ruin inserts and cause paint to flake on your backglass!&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; This has nothing to do with the G.I. (General Illumination circuit) which is fused on a fuse card and reaches to G.I. bulbs as about 6.3v AC.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** As they (almost) always stay lit, the G.I. bulbs tend to last longer running on an AC voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The AC is &#039;Tee-d&#039; off to the cabinet, playfield and the insert board (for the backglass lighting).&lt;br /&gt;
*** Wire colors for G.I. (and must be measured as AC) are Yellow and Yellow/White.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Flipper and Solenoid Voltage Supplies:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* The +28v DC Solenoid voltage passes straight through to the PSU where it is fused before leaving on the way to the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
** There are some additional components (a varistor and some filter capacitors) on the PSU board for the Solenoid/Flipper power.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Connectors on the PSU Board&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* All AC voltages come into the PSU board in the large 12-way connector 3J1, while the black ground wires are on the 6-way 3J2.  &lt;br /&gt;
**The fused &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;AC and DC&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; voltages exit on the larger of the &#039;D&#039; shaped connectors, while the black Lamp and solenoid ground wires exit on the smaller of the &#039;D&#039; connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;+5v Logic and +12v Unregulated Supplies:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*In the case of the +12v (and +5v a logic power), the AC comes into the PSU board at 3J1-10 11&amp;amp;12 directly from the transformer windings.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can measure about 10v AC in at the bottom of the diodes D7 and D8 with respect to the board&#039;s ground.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The total AC input is 18.6v, so each diode &#039;sees&#039; 9.3v because the transformer winding &#039;center tap&#039; at 3J1-12 is grounded.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** D7 connects to 3J1-10, and D8 to 3J1-11 and you would trace connections from there back to the transformer.&lt;br /&gt;
*** If you measure AC across the bottom of these two diodes you should see the full 18.6v AC.&lt;br /&gt;
*** Do not worry if this AC value is higher without a load, it can (and will) vary with changes in line voltages.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Values over 20v AC are considered normal without a load.  &#039;&#039;It&#039;s a &#039;schoolboy error&#039; to chase the voltages of unregulated supplies trying to get them to be exact.&#039;&#039;  This includes the AC input and +12v DC unregulated supply.&lt;br /&gt;
** The two large diodes at D7/D8 rectify the voltage to around +12v DC, again this is unregulated.&lt;br /&gt;
*** It is filtered by a large capacitor (12,000 uF or higher) to smooth out the AC ripple.&lt;br /&gt;
*** It is fused at 4A Slo-Blow, before exiting at 3J6-6 as the +12v DC for the reset circuit on the MPU Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* To generate the regulated +5v logic supply&lt;br /&gt;
** The +12v input is filtered more by capacitor C16 and then passed through X3 which is a +5v voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
** This exits at 3J5-6 as exactly +5v for the Master Display Board ICs and at 3J6-7 to 3J6-10 for the other +5v supplies (MPU and Driver Boards).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Please note that the Sound Board generates its own +12v and regulated +5v supplies for both Sound and Speech Boards.  This is discussed in the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Sound_.2F_Speech_Board_Issues | Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board Repair]] Section.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===General Illumination Connection Design Flaws===&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with System 7 games, the general illumination passed through the power supply.  This was done to turn the general illumination off (for effect) via a newly added relay on the power supply board.  Unfortunately, Williams did not spec connections which could properly handle the current used for the general illumination.  The end result was connections, whether it be housings or header pins, which became hot and / or burnt.  As the connections tarnish, resistance increases, and the connections become hotter. The cycle continues until an inline fuse blows, or in most cases, discontinuity in the circuit occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only option is to purchase the proper Molex housing and pins and replace both the male and female connections.  Replacing one side but not the other is futile.  The issue will reoccur at a much faster rate than replacing both sides. Another preventative measure is to reduce the amount of current draw by replacing the lamps with LEDs.  LEDs draw less current than 44, 47, and 555 bulbs, and the GI connections become less of an issue in the future when LEDs are installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU===&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a document for troubleshooting and repair of the Williams System 3-6 [[Media:PSU-Display-PWR.pdf|PSU Board Display Power]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An attempt was made to create step by step tests so that reading a schematic is not required.  Includes replacement parts for the HV section repairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the 1/4A (0.25A) fuse at F1 always blows on power up, you may have a shorted UDN IC chip on the Master Display Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
See this section on [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Master_Display_Drivers_for_System_3_to_6 |Sys 3-6 Master Display Drivers]] for testing all the UDN chips on the display board.  You can use these tests for both UDN7180 and UDN6118 (or UDN6184) IC&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Try removing the master display power connectors.  If that stops the F1 fuse from blowing, suspect the Master Display Driver needs repairs before you rebuild the HV section of the PSU.  Test the HV outputs of the PSU without any displays connected and see if the proper voltages are being generated from the PSU without a load.  You need +5v logic, +100v and -100v supplies to run the Master Display board correctly.  This will let you figure out if you need to rebuild the Master Display, the HV section on the PSU Board or both.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;From experience, if components on the PSU Board HV section are stressed, it is best to go ahead and rebuild the entire HV section replacing all components with new parts from a $10 kit.  It will save you time!&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===PSU Parts Suppliers===&lt;br /&gt;
Check with:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-29.asp Ed at GPE] has HV rebuild kits and most parts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://lockwhenlit.com/Products.aspx Rob Anthony&#039;s LockWhenLit] (Borygard from RGP) may also have some PSU parts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.bobramstad.com/pinball/sys6ps.html Bob&#039;s PSU parts list] shows the Mouser part numbers which is useful if you live in the USA, or just want to order a few items for your PSU repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also check with your favorite electronics supplier.  Please be aware that NTE replacement parts may have wide tolerances so they will be compatible with a greater number of original parts. So get the correct replacement parts wherever possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===PSU Diagrams and Resources===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Please refer to these files while using this section to diagnose and repair your PSU Board:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:11-powerwiring-sys4-6.pdf|Williams System 3-6 Power Wiring Diagram]] showing the wiring from your AC mains plug right through to the connection to the PSU board, Sound Board and the G.I.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:07-powerlogic-sys3-6.pdf|Williams 3-6 PSU Logic Diagram]].  A PSU Board Schematic for System 3-6 games, containing test points with approximate voltages and help with fault finding your game&#039;s power.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Troubleshooting and repair of the Williams System 3-6 [[Media:PSU-Display-PWR.pdf|PSU Board HV Display Section]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* External link to a PDF of [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Downloads/W3-11_HV_Kit.pdf WMS HV parts and instructions] from Ed at GPE, a great place to get your HV repair kits. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources to visit&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Except for the possible use of different transistors for Q1 and Q3 the later System 9-11 HV section is very similar in design.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_9_-_11#Display_problems |Sys 9-11 Master Display Driver Problems]], for more detail before starting your repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Missing PSU Upgrade Sections to add&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Testing the AC in and DC out for all sections, including the Solenoid and Lamp BRs.  Simple to do, but should it be spelled out? &lt;br /&gt;
* How to fit the replacement transistors with the &#039;twisted legs&#039; as the SDS-201 and SDS-202 are obsolete.  Although a diagram is on the GPE PDF for Ed&#039;s HV kit, some shrink wrap tubing could be added to the &#039;lowest leg&#039; to reduce failures.&lt;br /&gt;
* How to fit the 2 x 1n4763a 91v zenerDiodes, at locations Z2 &amp;amp; Z4 to reduce the Display out put to about+/-90v under load and extend display life.&lt;br /&gt;
* Repin of Headers at 3J1 and the used pins at 3J2, theory for using crimped trifuricon connectors and new housings which replace the existing female IDC connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
...etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==The MPU Reset Circuit==&lt;br /&gt;
The +12v for reset goes into a circuit that waits (for about a 1 sec. delay) for the +5v to stabilize before it lets the CPU boot. If the +12v (or output from the reset circuit) drops, the reset halts the CPU, PIA(s) and the 5101 CMOS RAM chips before the +5v to them dies. A shutdown of the CPU will also pull blanking low and halt solenoids, lamps and displays to protect them from further damage (coils firing, memory glitching) during the power down. So spikes or drops to the +12v line may halt the CPU at the wrong time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An MPU unable to boot may mean that its reset circuit is faulty.  A +12v line comes in from the PSU board to the MPU on pin 9 of 1J2. That&#039;s the top pin on the top left (and only connector on the left) of the MPU board.  +12v can also be measured at TP1 on a System 6, 6a, or 7 MPU.  Don’t get hung  up on it being exactly +12v, as it&#039;s not regulated.  However, it can’t drop too much lower than +11.5v, or the reset circuit &#039;&#039;&#039;may&#039;&#039;&#039; have a problem generating enough voltage to keep reset “up” to the CPU.  But +11.5v to +14v is not unusual and will still work.  A fluctuating reset can cause the game to reboot during a game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The state of the reset (high or low) can be observed at pin 40 of the 6808 or 6802 CPU chip.  Likewise, the reset can be observed at TP8 on System 6, 6a, and 7 MPU boards.  TP8 is located just to the right of IC19 (5101 memory) on a System 6 or 6a board, and the far right test point on the bottom of the MPU just above the 40-way connector on a System 7 MPU board.  It will be marked as TP8 on the PCB mask. For System 3, 4, 4a MPU boards, the reset will have to be measured at pin 40 of the 6800 CPU board.  When booting the game and watching reset, it stays low for a heartbeat after power on and then rises to +5v.  +4.75v or around that is fine.  Don&#039;t get hung up too much on the voltages being exact for the reset circuit either.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the +12v appears OK when measured, and the sound board is always booting and working, it&#039;s safe to assume that +12v at the PSU is stable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A good trick to &#039;inject&#039; a reset, is to try connecting +5v for a second or two to the reset test point at TP8 or the leg of the CPU chip (pin 40).  If the CPU boots (reset must be a logic high now on pin 40 of IC1), then the reset section will need to be rebuilt..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So that involves running a jumper lead from TP8 and &#039;&#039;&#039;briefly&#039;&#039;&#039; touching TP9 (+5v). TP9 is located just to the bottom right of the battery holder on a System 6 or 6a MPU board, while it is at the top right the battery holder on a System 7 board. The battery holder should have been removed, so the test point is located in the vicinity of where the original holder &#039;&#039;&#039;used to be&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Repairing the Reset Circuit &#039;Divide and Conquer&#039;===&lt;br /&gt;
Assuming that the game boots and works if the CPU reset pin is held high, how can it be determined what is wrong?  One solution is the shotgun method: just start changing transistors and components until it is fixed. However, this wastes time and parts. A better way is to narrow down the fault location using the &#039;injection&#039; trick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reset circuit is easily seen as two halves. For a System 7 MPU board, +5v can be applied directly to the top of resistor R12.  If the board boots and stays stable, then that indicates the problem is on the &#039;right hand&#039; side of the circuit. (On System 6, the same thing can be done, but using R32.  This method helps narrow down the faulty components by a half.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Assuming that the +12v getting to MPU board is good, if the above injection of 5v doesn&#039;t work, measure where the voltage disappears on the left hand side of the reset circuit.  Then replace parts on that side, checking for a good reset when the board boots each time. Remember that for System 6 and 7, there are just 12 active components that make up the reset circuit, and 8 of those are transistors.  Those are usually the source of the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step One===&lt;br /&gt;
The Right Hand Side.&lt;br /&gt;
Start by replacing transistors Q6 – Q9 (all 2n4401 NPN) get 10 or more of them, they’re cheap to buy and they are commonly used. They are used as pre-drivers for the solenoid power transistors on the driver boards for System 3-7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Test the board for the previous booting problem.  If they are still there, replace the two zener diodes:  ZR1 is a 6.8v Zener (1n5996) and ZR2 is a 3.9v Zener (1n5990) - you can&#039;t replace these components with anything else to my knowledge.  These are critical values.  And put the orientation of the band of the diode the same way as the ones that are removed. Taking a photo of how the circuit in the top left of the board looked before making any changes is a good idea.  Or, only replace components one at a time.  A test boot could be done on the bench each time something is replaced, but that may slow things down. On the other hand, this may result in avoiding replacing more components than necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It should be booting now, if not attack the other half.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step Two===&lt;br /&gt;
The Left Hand Side.&lt;br /&gt;
Start by replacing transistor Q2.  Q2 is a 2n4403 PNP transistor, cheap as well but you won’t need as many for pinball repairs.  then replace Q3-Q5 with the 2n4401 &#039;s like before.  I would replace D19 (a 1n4148 fast switching diode) you could test it with the diode setting of your DMM, but I don&#039;t trust testing diodes in circuit, and if I’m soldering in that section, I just cut it out and replace it. Cost will be pennies, and most pinball people should have new ones on hand. Again, be sure and notice the direction of the band on the old diode, and put the new one back the same way.  Same thing goes for the orientation of the flat side of the transistors.  Don’t get them wrong when replacing.  The last component to replace would be the capacitor at C27 (10 uF @10v is the original part –look on the side of the cap).  Replace it with a tantalum 10 uF @ 16v, if you can find it.  You can go up in voltage even to 20v or more, but don’t change the value of the capacitance.  Note that some caps have markings showing a (-) side, usually running down the side of the capacitor.  If it shows a polarity, the (-) side of C27 points down on the PCB, towards the 40-way interconnect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step Three, Hopefully Reset is Back Up===&lt;br /&gt;
That’s it.  Usually fixed at step one, and down to one (or more) of those transistors.  I have seen a zener or the 1n4148 diode at D19 be the problem before.  But for me, the cap C27 has always been good.  If all else fails, test the capacitor for a dead short with the power off and replace it with a 10uF electrolytic if it is shorted to ground or you aren&#039;t sure it&#039;s working.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit (System 6 and 6a)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Reset Stock.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Williams System 6 MPU board stock reset circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 MPU Reset Gen.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 6a MPU board reset circuit with an MCP130-460GI/TO reset generator installed. Note that ZR1 has not yet been removed in this image]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on System 6 and 6a MPU boards.  A reset generator can be installed.  To do so, some components will need to be removed and two jumpers installed.  The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following transistors - Q4 and Q6&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R43, R38, R39, R41, and R42&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove zener diode ZR1.  This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP130-460GI/TO where Q4 was (green highlighted area in image).  Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q4 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q4).  In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the top pad and bottom pad of where R39 was (yellow highlighted area in pic).  Essentially, replace R39 with a zero ohm jumper. &lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the top pad of R42 and the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; collector pad (top pad) where Q6 was installed (orange highlighted area in pic).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired.  Please consult the System 6 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed.  The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460GI%2FTO Great Plains Electronics].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6_Reset_Gen-Pullup.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 6A MPU board reset circuit with an MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator installed with a pull-up resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Alternately, an MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be used, except a 4.7K 1/4 watt pull-up resistor will have to be added to the reset signal line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following transistors - Q4 and Q6&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R43, R38, R39, R41, and R42&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove zener diode ZR1.  This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO where Q4 was.  Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q4 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q4).  In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the bottom pad of where R38 and R39 formerly were. &lt;br /&gt;
#Add a 47k 1/4w resistor between the top pad of where R38 was and the bottom pad of where R41 was.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit (System 7)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Reset Components Remove.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Components to remove from a Williams System 7 MPU board reset circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Reset New Components.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 7 MPU board reset circuit with a reset generator installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like the System 6 and 6a MPU boards, a reset generator can be installed on a System 7 board. Some components will need to be removed, a single jumper installed, along with a 4.7k ohm resistor installed.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove Q2 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R27, R24, R31, R25, R29, and R30 (resistor located to the right of Q2)&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove zener diode ZR1. This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO where Q2 was (this is the same reset generator as used on Data East MPUs). Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q2 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q2). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the bottom pads where R27 and R24 formerly were.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a 4.7K ohm 1/4 watt resistor in place of R25.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7ResetSection.jpg ‎|left|thumb|300px|All components of the reset section have been scraped except those required to use the MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator (marked with gold Sharpie). In this picture, the 74125 stuffed at the factory has been removed as it&#039;s original function was to read the DIP switches. System 7 games do not read the DIP switches.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU will no longer need the +12VDC to successfully boot. The remaining components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired as pictured at left. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP120-460GI%2FTO Great Plains Electronics].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; if using the MCP130 variety of reset generators, the 4.7K ohm resistor does not need to be installed as they incorporate the resistor internally.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Reset Circuit Summary===&lt;br /&gt;
Connectors were mentioned above for completeness.  While I agree a good 40-way connector is essential for correct operation of this era of games, changing the  Bridge Rectifiers in the backbox or rebuilding connectors probably won&#039;t help fix the reset circuit .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That because the &#039;&#039;&#039;BR&#039;s are only for the Lamps and Solenoids&#039;&#039;&#039; and won&#039;t fix a problem with the MPU power (or reset) as that is sourced directly from the PSU.  The +5v logic power comes from a regulator on the PSU board, and the +5v for the reset pins of the MPU ICs is created on the MPU from the +12v unregulated supply. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are looking here because game resets (reboots to attract mode or locks up) when flipping the flippers, it makes sense to check and rebuild the solenoid power circuit as well.  That is the flipper power on games prior to System 7 when 50v flippers and a Flipper Power Board was introduced.  You should also read the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC_5VDC_Power_Derivation_Path WPC section], while the games only similar- the approach for resets caused by power fluctuations is sound.  It takes you from the &#039;AC mains&#039; wall plug right through to the power needed on the boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Topics such as electrolytic capacitors aging and drying out, testing the Bridge Rectifiers and checking and tweaking the LM323K 5V regulator on the Power Baord will all be the same or very similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==The Blanking Circuit==&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking circuit is used by the MPU to prevent damage to the game when the MPU can not determine that the game is in a valid state. A low blanking signal means that the MPU isn&#039;t operating properly and the blanking circuitry is &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; (turning off) the lamps and displays. A high blanking signal means that the MPU is operating normally, allowing lamps and displays to function normally. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the driver board, the blanking signal is logically ANDed, by 7408s, with the enable signal for all 8 of the lamp strobes and the first 16 solenoids.  The 6 special solenoid enable signals are not ANDed with the blanking signal.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the MPU, the blanking signal for the displays leaves the board via connector IJ3 pin 4 (top left connector on board).  For the driver board blanking signal, it leaves the MPU board at pin 37 of the 40-pin interconnect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A special note: the blanking signal will only go high when the MPU and driver board are connected.  It will not go high if testing with a stand alone MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7BlankingLED.jpg|thumb|400px|left|A &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; LED added to a Williams System 3-7 Driver Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Adding an LED as shown in the image will let you easily monitor the Blanking state while troubleshooting. Note that the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED faces away from the 40-way connector and is on the same side as the shorter lead. The “current limiting” 150 ohm resistor is soldered to the ground trace.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the System 6/6A MPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6MPUBlanking.jpg | thumb | right| 400px| A blanking signal indication can be added to a System 6 MPU quite easily.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the TP4 test stud. This is the blanking stud.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the &amp;quot;non flat side&amp;quot; of the LED into the open hole.&lt;br /&gt;
#The &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED is oriented up, or toward the top of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder a 150 ohm (or so) resistor between the flat side lead and ground trace that has a zero ohm resistor soldered to it.&lt;br /&gt;
#All done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the System 7 MPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
A blanking signal indication can be added to a System 7 MPU can be done in at least two very clean ways.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When the LED is lit, the blanking signal is high, indicating a properly functioning MPU.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Option 1 ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Implementing this modification assumes that the battery holder trace is no longer in use!&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Blanking test point stud (numbered &amp;quot;4&amp;quot;). Since we are adding a blanking indication LED, the stud is no longer required.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install an LED, with the flat side pointing toward the former location of the battery holder and the other leg through the hole created by removal of the blanking TP stud.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the LED lead through the former battery holder hole and solder.&lt;br /&gt;
#Form a 150 ohm 1/4W resistor between the appropriate battery holder hole and the fat ground trace along the perimeter of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Scrape the solder mask from the board, enabling the resistor to be soldered to the ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder both ends of the resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a label to indicate the meaning of the LED; lit means blanking is on and the MPU is working properly; unlit means blanking is off and there is a problem with the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=480px heights=480px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Option 1: Adding a Blanking Signal Indication to a System 7 MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7BlankingLEDFront.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;An LED replaced the Blanking test point stud, flat side pointing toward the battery holder hole.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7BlankingLEDBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;The back of the System 7 MPU, showing connections of the LED, repurposed battery holder trace, and 150 ohm resistor connection.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Option 2 ====&lt;br /&gt;
This method does not require the battery holder to be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Clean the original solder from the lower of the 4 &amp;quot;paired&amp;quot; solder pads and the &amp;quot;via&amp;quot; pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install an LED, with the flat side oriented as indicated by the silkscreen&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, connect a 150 ohm 1/4W resistor to the LED lead on the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the other end of the resistor to the large ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the &amp;quot;non flat side&amp;quot; lead of the LED so that it can pass through the via hole and solder securely. This connects the LED to the blanking signal.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, sever the trace shown in the image below that runs NorthEast from the LED (trace severed at gold dot using a Dremel tool and ball cutter bit).&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a label to indicate the meaning of the LED; lit means blanking is on and the MPU is working properly; unlit means blanking is off and there is a problem with the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=480px heights=480px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Option 2: Adding a Blanking Signal Indication to a System 7 MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S7BlankingFront.jpeg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;An LED added to available solder pads, flat side pointing in the same direction as indicated on the silkscreen.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S7BlankingBack.jpeg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;The back of the System 7 MPU, showing connections between the LED, a 150 ohm resistor connected to ground, and the &amp;quot;non-flat-side&amp;quot; lead of the LED connected to the blanking signal.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Blanking Circuit Stuck Low===&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking circuitry that appears on Williams 3-7 MPU boards remained the same across all generations of Williams MPUs, all the way through the System 11 board set. Data East copied the same blanking circuitry too!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will send data to the display 6821 PIA at IC18 at regular intervals. &lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 at IC18 to periodically pulse.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at IC7, in at pin 5, out at pin 6.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C32 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q5 and to pin 8 of the 556 timer at IC23.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 556 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at IC18, the output of the 556 timer at pin 9 (and 13) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Upon a successful boot of the MPU board, the blanking will go from a low signal to a high signal, and remain high (no pulsing) as long as there are no issues. If the blanking signal does not go high, the system has not and will not boot.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the most common issues for a blanking signal to remain low is discontinuity between the MPU board and the driver board.  The blanking signal passes via the 40-pin interconnect at pin 37 (4th pin in from the left side).  Poor connections due to fatigue or seeping battery damage can cause a break in this connection.  It is best to replace both the male and female sides of the 40-pin interconnect to ensure that all is well.  Remember, the blanking will not go high, if the MPU is not connected to the driver board.  A flaky connection with discontinuity between boards is the same as if they&#039;re not connected.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 MPU Ground IC5.JPG|left|thumb|300px|A System 6 MPU board with the upper right battery holder through-hole circled, along with the ground trace and the 74LS02 labeled.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A special note about System 6 &amp;amp; 6A MPU boards.  The upper right through-hole for the battery holder passes the ground from the solder side of the board to the IC5 (74LS02) chip.  This through-hole can become compromised from battery corrosion or the careless removal of the battery holder.  If there is a break between the two sides of the board, ground will not be connected to IC5, and the chip will not function.  If this occurs, the blanking signal will never go high, and the board will not boot.  Just check for continuity between pin7 of IC24, the top right leg of chip shown and TP10, the bottom post on the right of picture. You may have to add a ‘stitch wire’ soldered to the top &amp;amp; bottom of the board going through the hole indicated.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys7_Blanking.JPG|left|thumb|300px|System 7 MPU board blanking signal trace]]&lt;br /&gt;
A special note about System 7 MPU boards.  The trace for the blanking signal is very fragile.  If the batteries have leaked on the board, or leached under the 40-pin header pins, make certain that the trace which carries the blanking signal has not been broken.  The break most commonly occurs at the junction of the trace and the component side of the through-hole pad for the header pin on the MPU board.  A continuity test can be performed to determine if the trace has been compromised.  Place one lead of the ohmmeter on TP4 and the other on pin 37 of the 40-pin header.  Also, keep the lead on TP4, and place the other on the 12th pad up on the far right of the board.  The header pin connector will have to be removed to inspect this junction, should there be a break.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Blanking Circuit Strobing===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a peculiar instance where the blanking circuit will be strobing.  The end result is erratic behavior from the displays and lamps (both the lamps and displays will be very dim if at all visible during attract mode).  The prime source of this issue is due to the C31 capacitor (1.0uF 25v axial tantalum) falling out of spec.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Driver Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The &amp;quot;Once Dreaded&amp;quot; 40-pin Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board mates with the MPU board using 40 x 0.156&amp;quot; extra long header pins on the MPU and female &#039;bottom entry&#039; Molex sockets on the driver board. Common belief is that these connectors are good for about 25 reliable connects and removals. While there may be disagreement with this number, the fact remains that the connector is good for a limited number of uses before the connection degrades. At that time, the connector must be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connectors between System 3-7 MPU and driver boards were/are a continual source of problems for this era of Williams machines. However, the issue was eliminated with the release of System 8, (and the more common System 9 platform), when the MPU board and driver board were merged together into a single board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the header pins on the MPU board aren&#039;t tarnished, burned, or previously sanded, you may be able to get away with re-flowing the solder on these pins following these steps.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heat up the pad, add a little new solder&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove all the solder you can (the old and new) with a solder sucker&lt;br /&gt;
* Add fresh solder back to get a nice flow around each pin&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms drvr interconnect.JPG|left|thumb|300px|The 40 pin female connector on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
Then, replace all the female connectors on the driver board.  Even if the driver board side pins look good, replace them.  Simple cleaning of the pins with a contact cleaner or burnishing them are not viable solutions. The bottom feed pins loose tensile strength over time, which degrades the connection between the MPU and driver board as they age. The picture at left illustrates the 40 pin female bottom feed connectors on the driver board. It should be noted that the connector in the picture is an extreme example of poor condition connections. Missing and alkaline damaged pins, connectors from position 17-40 on the left, are not the norm. Connections from position 1-16 on the far right are more commonly seen.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect Back.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Installing a new 40 pin female connector on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect Front Done.JPG|right|thumb|300px|A new 40 pin female connector installed on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
If using four 10 pin female connectors, (the originals on the driver board were five 8 pin), here&#039;s a little trick to keep them lined up nicely when soldering them.  Take the old 8 pin male header pin connectors, which were installed on the MPU board.  Install three of the 8 pin headers on the back side of the driver board and into the new female connectors (see picture to the left).  If any of the older header pin sections have battery corrosion on them, do not use use them for this.  Allow enough space between the connectors so some of the female connector leads can be soldered.  Solder all of the exposed leads on the female connector.  Once they are soldered in place, remove the male headers, and solder the remaining leads on the female connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Male40PinHeaders.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Fresh male headers installed on this System 6 MPU. Nice. Note the new headers are 10 pins long while the original headers were 8 pins long.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts for the MPU are:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Square .156&amp;quot; header pins. These can be found at Great Plains Electronics [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2420-10-2260 here]. Alternatively, Molex brand longer pins, part number 26-48-1080, can be used. Both of these options meet the length requirement for the pins to be at least 0.629&amp;quot; or 16mm length.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts for the Driver board are:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*10-way 0.156&amp;quot; Bottom Entry Female Molex Part Number: 09-52-3102 (4 needed per board). The original part, 5A-9066 8-way .156&amp;quot; Female Molex Part Number: 09-52-3082 (5 needed per board). Alternates are Molex 09-62-6104 and 09-52-3102 which are hard to obtain.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check with: &lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-82.asp Ed at GPE] or your favorite supplier for these.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:UsingFemaleHeadersToAlignMaleHeaders.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Female housings being used to align the male headers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A trick similar to the method aligning the female housings can be used to align the male headers. Use the old (or new one housings) to align the male headers as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no substitute for doing this correctly, other than buying reproduction boards. A solution is a board made by Rottendog Amusements, where the MPU and driver board are [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 combined into one board].  Cost is anywhere from $350 - $400.  Another option is purchasing both the [http://www.pinballpcb.com/System3-7MainBoard.html MPU] and [http://www.pinballpcb.com/System3-7DriverBoard.html driver board] from Kohout Enterprises for $425.  When both boards are purchased, they can be tied together via an auxiliary ribbon cable.  Of course they can be connected via the 40-pin interconnect too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If doing it yourself, repairs on the MPU and driver board connectors can cost up to $30 or less in parts (header pins, sockets and solder), along with several hours to replace the connectors and pins correctly.  This of course depends on your level of soldering skills and the value you put on your time. It&#039;s a fairly long job but it&#039;s likely that it only needs to be done once.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Display Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
===Every-Other Digit Shown On All Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem3-6EveryOtherDigitOut.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|Half of the digits, or every-other digit, are missing on all displays. Unintuitively, the root cause of this failure is the lamp matrix 6821 PIA at IC10 on the driver board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This failure seems to occur quite frequently and perplexes most techs. While the 6821 in the MPU display interface circuitry would seem to be the logical culprit, it is the lamp matrix PIA on the driver board that is the actual villain. The issue shown at left was remedied by replacing PIA III (also known as IC10), the lamp matrix drive PIA, which is the middle PIA on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating this failure, and the correction, can be found [https://youtu.be/ckwoW_xuQSM &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Every-Other Digit Dim On All Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EveryOtherDigitDim.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|Half of the digits, or every-other digit, are dimly displayed. This behavior was caused by a failed 4020 IC25.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This rare failure is caused by the 4020 at IC25 (on a System 7 MPU) failing such that either pin 12, 13, or 14 is &amp;quot;dead&amp;quot;. In this case, display interrupts occur too rapidly, and the 6800/6802 can&#039;t service those interrupts quickly enough to properly render display data.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating this failure, and the correction, can be found [https://youtu.be/_qOhzzwpbu0 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Repairing the Master Display Driver===&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the detail here is for System 3 - 6a with 6-digit displays only.  So it does not include Alien Poker or Algar, which both used the System 7 type display setup.  System 7-9 used a smaller Master Display Board located on the back of the lamp board, and it had IDC type ribbon cables that ran to the 4 player 7-digit displays.  They added a 4-digit Credit/Match display which also used a ribbon cable. The harness connecting the backbox (PSU and MPU) signals to the Master board used the same &#039;edge-connector&#039; as System 3-6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===First, a High Voltage &#039;&#039;&#039;***Warning***&#039;&#039;&#039;===&lt;br /&gt;
With the game on you are dealing with +100 and -100v HV DC (High Voltage) going to the displays. That&#039;s a potential 200v difference and you only need to feel that once to know it.  Wear tennis shoes (trainers or any rubber soled shoe) when working on displays with the backbox open.  This is a shock hazard!  If you are not capable or happy with measuring these voltages with a steady hand, then get someone else to help you and be there to &#039;spot&#039; you.   Always a good idea and more fun than working on your own.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another useful tip is to remove Fuse F1 from the PSU (Power Supply Board). This is the HV fuse and is 1/4A Slo-Blow (250mA &#039;T&#039; fuse in Europe).  This will allow the logic (BCD binary decoders and Buffer ICs) to be troubleshooted with a DMM or Logic Probe without the danger of shocks or shorting them out when measuring TTL (logic) voltages. It may also save the logic probe from a crispy fate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Wiring Harness===&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes displays just go blank and it is a fault in the wiring harness from backbox to the Master Display Driver.  If you can swap a working Master Display Driver board from a System 3-6a game with stable displays, then do that as a first step.  This way you quickly determine if the fault is in the backbox &#039;&#039;&#039;OR&#039;&#039;&#039; the Master Display Driver PCB or displays on the front of the light board.  If it&#039;s the towards the backbox then suspect display harness cabing Driver to MPU, or the display PIA or decoding on the MPU. If you don&#039;t have the ability to swap in a spare Master Display board, then turn off the game and test the harness for continuity between the backbox (MPU board) and the cables at the left and right side of the Master using this &#039;&#039;[[media:10-displaywiring-sys-4-6.pdf|Master Display board harness wiring diagram]]&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Segment failures===&lt;br /&gt;
Segment failures on a single display could be that display failing. Same issue if just one display is blank.  Swap that display with another (power off first) and see if the problem moves with that display.  If it moves, it&#039;s that display glass or its board.  If it doesn&#039;t move and stays at the same player location, see below for the possible suspects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Segment failures on multiple displays and probable cause:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Players 1 &amp;amp; 2 Segments and master display Segments are out:&lt;br /&gt;
* BCD inputs are A1 B1 C1 D1 from the MPU board  &lt;br /&gt;
* MC14543 BCD to 7-Seg. Decoder IC5&lt;br /&gt;
* UDN7180 Display Driver IC9&lt;br /&gt;
* Resistors R1-R7&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Players 3 &amp;amp; 4 Segments&lt;br /&gt;
* BCD inputs are A2 B2 C2 D2 from the MPU board  &lt;br /&gt;
* MC14543 BCD to 7-Seg. Decoder IC8&lt;br /&gt;
* UDN7180 Display Driver IC10&lt;br /&gt;
* Resistors R8-R14&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start out by measuring all the resistors on the master display board with the power off.  &lt;br /&gt;
R1-R14 should be around 10K ohms.  Any that are not within about 10% (say a range between 9.6K to 10.4K ohms) need to be replaced.  Also look and see if any look &amp;quot;toasted&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Those resistors get cooked on the Master display boards and usually will then cause single segments to fail on both the player 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4 displays together, as they are linked.  Te resistors need to be replaced with the same value: 10K but at 1/2 Watt.  Some of the modern &#039;metal film&#039; resistors are rated at 0.6W which is perfect and they fit nicely in that location.  Older 0.5W (1/2W) resistors are larger, but are fine.  Mount them slightly off the PCB so they get good airflow all around the resistor body.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do the above steps anyway, no matter what the display problem is although it&#039;s probably not going to be the whole story.&lt;br /&gt;
Replacement resistors are cheap and will prolong the life of your displays.  Reducing the voltage going to the displays when rebuilding the HV section of the PSU is a good step to take and will help as well.  You only need to replace two Zener diodes to achieve this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Digit Failures===&lt;br /&gt;
Strobe inputs for the display digits come in to three 14069 hex inverters on the driver board.  IC1, IC2 and IC3.&lt;br /&gt;
* IC1 is dedicated to the Master Display &#039;Credit/Match&#039;. Strobes are: 15,16,7,8 left to right, for the 4 digits it uses.&lt;br /&gt;
* IC2 and IC3 strobe inputs are more complicated, to strobe distribution between these IC chips is shown in the display diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Strobe (or strobe input) failures are likely to show up in the player display pairings 1&amp;amp;3 or 2&amp;amp;4 because:&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 1-6  are shared for players 1 &amp;amp; 3&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 9-14 are shared for players 2 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===All Displays are Blank===&lt;br /&gt;
This could be that the +100v or the -100v HV are missing from the PSU board.  Both have to be there, so check that the output from the PSU and that the voltages (HV) are good first, and getting to the Master display driver to be relayed to the player displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are also 5 x  3 Mega ohm resistors, at R15-R19,  These are for the cathode &amp;quot;keep alives&amp;quot; and again should be near that value.  If the 3 Meg resistors don&#039;t look cooked and are within spec, check that you can see an &amp;quot;orange glow&amp;quot; in the displays when the lights in the room are dim or off.  If you see a faint glow (some describe it as an &#039;orange neon dot&#039;), then look elsewhere for the fault.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
If you don&#039;t see the display glow, check the wiring to the  connectors carefully looking for a burnt wire at pins 4J7-1 -2 and -6 &lt;br /&gt;
on the master display.  Do this with the power off, as you are dealing with 100v and -100v DC.  If you find a cooked wire, sometimes just cutting the wire back a bit to expose clean metal and then reinserting it firmly in the IDC connector will repair the problem with a bad connection for one of the HV lines.  Remove and reseat all the edge connectors on the master display board and especially examine the ones that go to the backbox.  You can clean the copper contacts on the edge connectors gently with an eraser to shine up the copper if it&#039;s dull or has &amp;quot;dead spots&amp;quot; worn on it.  Check any inline connectors as well. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I also recommend disconnecting all the player displays 1-4 at the  Master display.  Get it working with the just the credit/match and &lt;br /&gt;
then with one other display attached, like player 1.  Then add back the player 2-4 displays one at a time (you need to power off each time you add or swap a display), testing for correct function each time.  You can also swap the player displays as a diagnostic step and carefully observe if the fault(s) stay with the Display in question or move to the new location.  Use the &amp;quot;display test&amp;quot; on the diagnostics for this. After the above is checked, perhaps you do have to suspect the IC chips (or  for the discrete version the transistors).  Depending on whether the Segments or Digits are out, it will point you at a specific IC (or transistor array). Knowing which displays are out helps reduce the fault domain down to one chip.  You need be like a detective, following the clues.  Having a Master Display Assembly drawing and a schematic on hand will help with this process.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s hoping that it isn&#039;t one of the UDN6118A-1 (aka UDN6184-5) IC chips that&#039;s faulty.  Hard to remove from another board in one piece, without a de-soldering station and becoming obsolete.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, check that the display blanking connector is in place. This will be a 4 pin connector with a single wire. If this connection has failed or has been unplugged, the game will boot, go into attract and seem to be working, but the displays will remain blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays only showing even number===&lt;br /&gt;
This is caused by a display signal connector issue.  This shows up in pairs; player one and two or player three and four. Likely to be header pins on MPU board connector J5, J6, J7&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Scrolling Digits on Display===&lt;br /&gt;
The rather unusual issue of &amp;quot;scrolling digits&amp;quot; on the displays is caused by failed/failing filter capacitors on the power supply board. Over about 40 years of operation, these capacitors begin to fail and no longer effectively filter the high voltages. The OEM capacitors were rated at 100uf/150V. These capacitors can be replaced with 220uf/160V axial capacitors to correct this behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video of this behavior can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxIRdJ7ecBY &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3-6 Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 3-6 Master Display Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
Master Display Driver Boards came in two versions, discrete and IC based.  Williams designed the discrete version when the UDN7180 / UDN6184 Gas Plasma Display Driver ICs became scarce (and they were expensive even then). There are some logic chips that decode the BCD data for the 7 display segments (MC15453 or MC15458) and to buffer and invert the display strobe lines for the digits (MC14069).  These buffers and decoders are common to both the D8000 and D8168 versions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Discrete version Display Driver=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display discrete.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Discrete Components)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D8168 board uses  MPSA92 (PNP in a TO-92 package) and MPSA42 (NPN also TO-92) transistors to drive the Master (Credit/ Match) and player scoring displays.  These gas plasma display driver transistors are available today and still very cheap to buy.  Unfortunately, this style of board is less common to find in the wild, but actually easier to maintain.  At least no one can try to charge you $20+ for an obsolete driver IC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====IC version Display Driver=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D8000 IC version board is composed of ICs that implement the transistor arrays.  Usual factory chips are the UDN-7180 for the Segment Driver and the UDN6118a-1 for the Digit Driver.  You may find the Digit Driver IC is a UDN6184-5 as well from Williams.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The UDN-7180 IC chips are still fairly easy to find. Cost should be reasonable, if you shop / ask around. (Sprague) or uPA6118c may still be available for $3-5 but have a lower breakdown voltage (~85v DC) than original part.  The displays run at +/-100v DC as standard and need the higher rated original part which is the the UDN6118A-1 (note we have -1 at the end).  The UDN6118a-1 is rare and also becoming very expensive, as much as $20+ for an IC chip.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you do find the &#039;&#039;&#039;lower rated UDN6118a (or uPA6118c)&#039;&#039;&#039;, then you will need to replace two zener diodes on the PSU to lower the display voltage down from 100v.  It&#039;s a good idea anyway on a working System 3-7 game.  Not overdriving display glass and less stress on the expensive display driver chips will lengthen the life of your game. Arcades sometimes had bright lights or windows, while in your home you won&#039;t notice any difference running at a lower voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I usually drop the voltage down leaving the Power Supply to about +/- 90v with 2 x 1n4763a 91v zeners, at locations Z2  &amp;amp; Z4.  This seems to work well, but you are still probably driving near the limits of the replacement UDN6118a.  Unlike the Bally games of the same era, there is no fine adjustment on the voltage output of the HV section of the PSU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the Power Supply repair section for more information about parts to use and other upgrades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remember to compare the costs and trouble of repairs with buying a replacement Master Display Driver board:&lt;br /&gt;
* If all that is wrong with the Master is that the Credit/Match display is out, but it drives all player displays correctly, in my experience the repair is easier than on the player display parts of the driver board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Carefully placing a new 6-digit glass against the pins of the non-working display will confirm if it is the display glass or an IC chip that has failed.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Be Careful of the HV (High Voltages) when doing this, and only hold it by the display glass as it is a natural insulator!  It takes a steady hand and some practice, but this test will work on other player displays as well.  This usually proves the old display has a digit/segment missing, is &#039;out gassed&#039; or is just prone to flickering.  This isn&#039;t foolproof, it works works provided the existing display doesn&#039;t have a short. If both displays exhibit the fault, cutting the correct &#039;leg&#039; or legs in the middle on the old display may help reveal this, and you can bend it back and solder back together if it&#039;s not shorted.      &lt;br /&gt;
** You replace the Master display glass with a standard 6-digit gas plasma display, you can even use an old (but working) player display.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can also replace the Master display with a player display that has a digit fault and would otherwise be unusable! It&#039;s possible because the &#039;100,000s&#039; and &#039;100s&#039; digits are not used on the Master [x00x00].  So you can take two faulty components (a non-working Master and non-working player score display) and make a working Master Display Driver Board.  Pinball repair nirvana.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you feel the display glass is good, you can look to the ICs which are dedicated to driving the Master (or Credit/Match) Display:&lt;br /&gt;
* Start by testing IC1, a 14069 Hex Buffer/Inverter with your logic probe.  Run the display digits diagnostic test, with the Auto/Manual switch in the Auto/Up position.  The digits on all displays should be counting 0-9.  Test the strobe lines are being inverted.  The strobe lines and associated pins are in the diagram given below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When reading this diagram remember that Player 1&amp;amp;3 Score Displays share Strobes 1-6, while Player 2&amp;amp;4 Score Displays share Strobes 9-14. One strobe for each digit.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Master Display has 4 digits only: Strobes 7,8,15,16. So if the output pin is not the inverse of the input pin or a signal is missing, then replace IC1.  It&#039;s available as a 4049U or MC14049UB. Cost is maybe 50 cents, certainly &amp;lt; $1 even in low numbers.  Useful chips to buy and have around, as the 4049 is also used on the System 3-7 Driver Board for the switch matrix and on other later games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys3-7-Displ-Digit-Driver.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Digit failures will show up in these pairings if they are related to the strobes (so digit drivers):&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 1-6:  shared for players 1 &amp;amp; 3&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 9-14: shared for players 2 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
* The Diagram below is the same for all games, as are the Master Displays which makes them interchangable:&lt;br /&gt;
* The Table / Diagram is listed in the most obvious order: Master, Player 1,2,3,4 displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a clearer Table from the above diagram:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |MASTER DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT DRIVER&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER BUFFER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|(Left) 10,000||IC4  pin 1 / 18 ||align=center|15	||IC1 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000        ||IC4  pin 3 / 16 ||align=center|16	||IC1 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10           ||IC4  pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|7   ||IC1 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|(Right) Units||IC4  pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|8	||IC1 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 1 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 2 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100,000 ||IC11 pin 1 / 18 ||align=center|1 ||IC2 pin  5 / 6||align=right|100,000 ||IC11 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|9  ||IC3 pin  9 / 8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10,000	||IC11 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|2 ||IC2 pin  3 / 4||align=right|10,000  ||IC11 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|10 ||IC3 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000  ||IC11 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|3 ||IC2 pin  1 / 2||align=right|1,000   ||IC12 pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|11 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100	||IC11 pin 4 / 15 || align=center|4 ||IC2 pin  9 / 8||align=right|100     ||IC12 pin 6 / 13 ||align=center|12 ||IC3 pin 13 /12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10	||IC11 pin 5 / 14 || align=center|5 ||IC2 pin 11 /10||align=right|10      ||IC12 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|13 ||IC3 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|Units	||IC11 pin 6 / 13 || align=center|6 ||IC2 pin 13 /12||align=right|Units   ||IC12 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|14 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 3 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 4 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100,000||IC12 pin 1 / 18 || align=center|1 ||IC2 pin  5 / 6||align=right|100,000 ||IC13 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|9 ||IC3 pin  9 / 8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10,000 ||IC12 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|2 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4||align=right|10,000 ||IC13 pin 4 / 15 ||align=center|10 ||IC3 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000 ||IC12 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|3 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2||align=right|1,000 ||IC13 pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|11 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100 ||IC12 pin 4 / 15 || align=center|4 ||IC3 pin  9 / 8||align=right|100 ||IC13 pin 6 / 13 ||align=center|12 ||IC3 pin 13 /12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10	||IC13 pin 1 / 18 || align=center|5 ||IC3 pin 11 /10||align=right|10 ||IC13 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|13 ||IC3 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|Units ||IC13 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|6 ||IC3 pin 13 /12||align=right|Units ||IC13 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|14 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If that doesn&#039;t fix it, next move on to the Segment Drivers:&lt;br /&gt;
*Look at IC4, the UDN6118A, follow the steps to do a DMM test of the UDN chip.  A trick here can be that all the pins are not used (because of the missing digits, so it is possible to make use of the original UDN6118-A-1 (or UDN6184-5) that has a previous fault and one I/O pair is faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This works for the Master Display, so I would keeep a faulty UDN chips (or a faulty board) for spares.  You never know (e.g. there is an &#039;&#039;extra unused pair&#039;&#039; on every UDN7180 type chip pins 1+18 when we get to Segment driver tricks!!! This does not work when you get to for System 7-9 Masters, as all the pins are used.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pairs that &#039;&#039;&#039;are needed&#039;&#039;&#039; for IC4 are: (1,18) (3,16) (5,14) (7,12).  So you can get away without pairs: (2,17) (4,15) (6,13) (8,11) so you can have up to 1/2 the chip faulty, but it needs to be the right positions without using wire jumpers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a way to test the UDN6118&#039;s with the power off and your DMM (multimeter).&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;With the game OFF&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the power in to the Master Display board, connector 4J7. &lt;br /&gt;
**DMM goes on the Diode test setting, usually a symbol like this:  -&amp;gt;|&lt;br /&gt;
**Red lead clipped to ground, I use the ground braid in the backbox, or on the display board connected by a jump lead (alligator clips each end)&lt;br /&gt;
**Touch black lead to the UDNxxxx pins 2 through 8&lt;br /&gt;
**You should get .5 to .7 for each pin&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Then touch Black lead on each UDNxxxx pins 17 through 11. &lt;br /&gt;
**An open reading (no reading) is the correct result.  &lt;br /&gt;
**A shorted display glass can show up during the UDNxxxx 11 through 17 test.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pairs 1,18 and 9,10), the UDN chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board. Take care to preserve this chip, as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace. Now install an IC socket in its place. Repeat the test with no chip installed. If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced. If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Notes on different board revisions:&lt;br /&gt;
Williams also used the DI-0512 (Dionics-512) for the Digit Driver IC. I have owned the discrete transistor version, but the Dionics-512 version is even harder to find, and I&#039;ve not seen one in 7 years of collecting.  That&#039;s not to say they are not out there. &lt;br /&gt;
All the troubleshooting instructions above are intended for the UDN type boards, but the Dionics boards work in a similar way, so consult the schematics.  You will also need to make sense of the warnings below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Warnings:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
These are factory changes, but if you replace or swap chips, you should be aware of the following&lt;br /&gt;
* The Display board must run similar chips, so for example all UDN-6118 / UDN-6184 types for the Digit Drivers OR all DI-0512 Digit Drivers (which are longer, meaning they have more pins). They have different power requirements!  The two Segment Driver ICs need to match, too.  So two MC14548 ICs at IC6 &amp;amp; 7, OR two MC14543 ICs at IC5 &amp;amp; 8. Mix &amp;amp; Match or having all four installed is mental (crazy)!   You should have empty pads on the board for the optional IC chips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* With the DI-0512 at ICs on these boards, the &#039;10K&#039; resistors R1-R14 are all 15K. Adjust the repair instructions below accordingly.&lt;br /&gt;
* If IC4 and IC11-14 are UDN-6118 chips, then a +100v trace is cut connecting pin 2 of connector J7 and ZR1 (1N4740A Zener diode) is added.  &lt;br /&gt;
* With the DI-0512&#039;s this trace is left, and there is no Z1 used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D8000-Cut-Trace.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes a HV arc can occur between two pads on the Master Display board, and if this happens it will blow out the HV section of the PSU (power Supply Unit).  If you have the UD7180 version of the System 3-6 Master Display board, it may be worthwhile taking this &#039;&#039;&#039;easy step&#039;&#039;&#039; to prevent a problem:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an unused track on the front of the board near to the bottom right corner of the Master display glass. The top round pad in this picture is unused on the UDN7180 version but goes to the +100v supply at Pin 2 of 4J7. Click to expand the picture at left for a better view.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It appears that the pad shorted out to the ground track that goes around both of the round pads. Cutting the track to the top round pad as shown in the picture (with the board removed from the game) will cause no problems for the displays on your game. And it could prevent disaster.  A short could damage the HV section of the PSU, even the Master Display board itself. I have seen it happen, so better safe than sorry.  BTW- This track &#039;&#039;&#039;should not be cut&#039;&#039;&#039; if the Dionics Digit Driver ICs are installed.  The writer has owned many games and has never seen a board with the Dionics ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sound / Speech Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
Sounds and speech are one of the most important parts of a pinball game for me.&amp;amp;nbsp; Few things are more depressing for me than the sound of a pinball rolling around the wood with no background noises and without sounds of points being scored.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This section deals with the square sound board Type 2 ( System 6 &amp;amp; 7, with or without the speech &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;). The Williams part number is 1C-2001-146-x, although much of the information applies to the Type 1 boards (System 3 &amp;amp; 4).&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
A description of the sound board Type 2:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The sound board is actually a &amp;quot;mini-MPU&amp;quot; board running a 6808 CPU and a single 6821 PIA. So read the MPU board sections about the replacing sockets and the reset circuit as it will work in a very similar way.&lt;br /&gt;
* It has an external 6810 RAM for the CPU registers / &#039;stack&#039;. This can be replaced by internal RAM in the 6802 CPU if that is used. &lt;br /&gt;
* It has it&#039;s own PSU (Power Supply Unit) and takes ~18v AC voltage directly from the games mains transformer and rectifies it to DC voltages that provide the +5v logic to the ICs and +12v for the CPU reset circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
* It provides -12v DC only used on the speech card for IC2 &amp;amp; IC3 the two 1458 OP Amps. They act as mixers for the analogue sounds and digital speech.&lt;br /&gt;
* A single 2K 2716 Eprom (ROM) which contains program instructions that &#039;boot&#039; the CPU and code to create the sounds. Different ROM versions are containing specific sounds are numbered: Williams&#039; Sound ROM 1, Sound ROM 2, Sound ROM 3...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last item deserves some explanation. The Sound ROM does not store sounds as samples, but as mathematical &#039;strings&#039; which describe parameters such as attack, frequency, decay and echo. So the board functions as a synthesizer, rather than playing a WAV file or compressed sound like an MP3 player today. In fact a 2K sample at 22K Hz sample rate could last about 1/10 of a second.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 4K 2532 Eproms on the Speech Board can hold sampled sound but at very low quality. [[Black Knight]] used 4 Speech ROMs for a total of 16K and could speak about 20 words along with the famous laughter. Earlier games having 3 Speech ROMs Like Gorgar or Firepower could speak only about 11 words using 3 x 2532 ROMs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Why did they provide a different PSU for the Sound card?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
This early Williams game design could be for ground isolation, perhaps to provide a cleaner sound by avoiding interference from the other components which created RFI. Notice that I used &amp;quot;early Williams game design&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;cleaner sound&amp;quot; were just used together in the same sentence. I have also seen Sound Boards where the BR1 was missing and replaced by 4 x diodes, which also works. Two were mounted on the front and two on the back, with the bands on the diodes all pointing in the direction of TP1 (+12v). Start at 1N5401, rated 100v @ 3A.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Understanding this background should help pinpoint the source of problems with Sounds and Speech on games of the early 80&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Useful Sound Board Repair Links===&lt;br /&gt;
Leon Borre&#039;s work is a good starting guide for Williams sound board repair. He was a clever guy in Belgium, who developed special test ROMs for lots of pinball systems, including Williams System 3 through 7. &#039;&#039;&#039; I can&#039;t thank him enough here!&#039;&#039;&#039; He developed a test chip that can be downloaded and burned to a 2716 Sound EPROM, which will start the CPU, &amp;quot;pulse&amp;quot; the PIA and also test the memory. It&#039;s harder to do any advanced fault repairs without this test ROM. So it&#039;s a good place to start if the sound board doesn&#039;t boot at all. Leon&#039;s technical article pertaining to Williams System 3 through 7 sound can now be found [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair here].&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Dave Langley&#039;s site [http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/techwilliamshardwareidsound.html robotron-2084.co.uk] has a clear diagram of jumper settings for most games on Williams Type 2 boards. Check jumpers first, W1 must be present if no speech board is attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing for a Sound Board fault===&lt;br /&gt;
Before starting to repair a Williams sound card, first determine that there is actually have a sound board problem! Do the sounds work correctly from the sound board &#039;self test&#039; by pressing the diagnostic button? Have you followed the diagnostic procedures in the game manual and checked the &#039;Solid State Flipper Maintenance Manual&#039; or equivalent for the specific game? There will probably be a fault on the sound board if the diagnostic test on the sound board produces nothing (or the wrong sounds) &#039;&#039;&#039;and&#039;&#039;&#039; grounding the input pins won&#039;t work. See the &#039;sound selects&#039; section for specific games below. Check out the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting section] first. After reviewing it, here are are some specific things to eliminate first: &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
* Bypass the volume control in the cabinet by removing the connector at IOJ4 and jumpering pins 1 &amp;amp; 2. It will be really loud (full volume in fact) so a couple K ohm resistor (3K?) looped around those two pins will substitute for the volume pot and save your ears.&lt;br /&gt;
* Take the sound board out, leave all the connectors still plugged in and the game running.&lt;br /&gt;
** The speaker and volume control can be set as above.&lt;br /&gt;
** Touch the back of the sound amp at IC1 with a finger - it&#039;s just under the Volume control connector J2 which was jumpered and has 5 legs. Not hearing this hum could be a missing +12v or a bad amp IC.&lt;br /&gt;
** A loud loud hum should be heard from the speakers, this proves the TDA2002 sound amp is working and also that the speakers are capable of producing sound. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Treat the sound board as a mini-MPU board (but with an on-board PSU) and all the usual fixes apply:&lt;br /&gt;
* Test there is around 18v AC coming in to the sound card. It&#039;s directly from the transformer to connector 10J1 and then fused with 2 x 8A fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
** Are both fuses good? Take them out and test them. &lt;br /&gt;
**Is the voltage getting further than the fuse clips? Are the fuses hot to the touch after the power is switched off? This may indicate high resistance at the fuse clips.&lt;br /&gt;
** Pin 5 of 10J1 is the &#039;center tap&#039; or reference for the AC. There should be about 9.6 V AC between pins 1 and 5, and the same voltage between pins 9 and 5.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use the test points to measure DC +5v +12v and -12v. A short-cut (and much easier) is to touch the Red test lead to the left side leads of the 3 big capacitors, with the black lead on Ground which is the metal trace on the edge of the board. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remember -12v is only needed for the speech board, and even around -10v will normally be fine.&lt;br /&gt;
**Don&#039;t worry if the voltages aren&#039;t perfect (especially the +/-12v DC which is unregulated). Only the +5v needs to be in a narrower range (4.8-5.2v).&lt;br /&gt;
**No +5v with +12v present suggests the 1 amp &#039;7805 5v regulator&#039; at IC8 is faulty. It looks like the TIP-xxx transistor as it is in a TO-220 case, with a heatsink. Measuring +12v input on the top pin and no +5v output on the bottom pin will confirm this diagnosis. Obviously the CPU (and other ICs) can&#039;t run without the +5v logic voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
* If there are Scanbe sockets, replace them first, including the ROM socket. The PIA can be left alone for now if it&#039;s soldered directly to the board and not socketed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Read the MPU board repair and troubleshooting if the board still won&#039;t &#039;boot&#039; (the CPU, working RAM and reset circuit are very similar).&lt;br /&gt;
** Because there are no LEDs to show the board is &#039;locked up&#039;, you will need to look at pins 9 - 20 &amp;amp; 22-33 on the CPU for any activity with a logic probe. If the CPU has started, there should be some activity on these address and data bus lines. If they are &#039;dead&#039;, then the CPU has not started.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you look at the CPU bus lines with Leon&#039;s sound board test ROM (instead of the sound ROM) you can see which lines are missing, and also will see the PIA lines &#039;dance&#039; as he calls it. The PIA I/O lines strobe Hi/Lo/Hi/Lo if they are working as they should. The test ROM will need to be burned on a 2716 Eprom.&lt;br /&gt;
** Review Leon Borré&#039;s [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair Williams sound board article] for advanced troubleshooting. You can fix boards more easily with his free test ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
** Note: The the test chip will not start on a Type 2 board with jumper W1 missing, unless the speech card is also connected. Mine didn&#039;t start &amp;quot;pulsing&amp;quot; without the speech card. Because of this, here&#039;s a &#039;&#039;key tip&#039;&#039;: &#039;&#039;&#039;Jumper W1, and set DS1: SW1 and SW2 to OFF and run without a speech board&#039;&#039;&#039; until the sound is working 100%. Do this now if you haven&#039;t removed the speech board already, it may not be obvious at first, but you have to get back to a basic setup and work forward from there.&lt;br /&gt;
See also [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Put the Sound/Speech Board on the Bench|Advanced Sound/Speech Board Repair on the Bench]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Back to Basics===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6-7_Sound_W1_Jumper.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Temporary W1 jumper installed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Pot Alternate.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Bypassing the volume control]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The next step, once you have verified voltages is to remove the speech board (if one is fitted) and jumper W1. Verify W1 is present for any board you are working on, as no sound gets to the audio amp without a speech board or jumper W1 present.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To bypass the volume control, a 470Kohm resistor can be installed across pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 of connector 10J4. Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped and installed in a .156&amp;quot; housing. Although a 470Kohm resistor is used in this example, other values can be used to obtain the desired volume. 470Kohms sets the volume to medium loudness.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The .156&amp;quot; set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3-7 games and 9-11 games too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Modification for Noisy Type 1 Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
On the Type 1 sound boards, Williams did not use a small value bypass capacitor on the input to the 7805 +5V regulator as recommended by the manufacturer. This bypass capacitor is used to keep noise off of the +12V voltage rail, which is used by the power amplifier IC. Installing a .22uF ceramic capacitor across the input pin (pin 1 - left pin from front) and ground (pin 2 - center pin) of the 7805 regulator can significantly reduce the amount of noise and hum on these sound cards.  Important note -- the Williams Type 1 Sound Board schematic diagram has an error.  Pin 1 is the input, pin *2* is center pin and connected to ground and pin *3* is the output.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 4-6 Sound Selects===&lt;br /&gt;
Press the diagnostic switch on the Sound Board. When sounds do work on the sound board self test, but you get missing or incorrect sounds during a game, then a simple test for all models of sound card is to ground the input pins. This gives you an indication that the sound board is working, as each pin should produce a distinct sound. For Type 2 boards (square ones) that&#039;s 10J3 pins 2-4 and 7, pin 1 is on the right, It may also be the same pin locations on the Type 1 boards (Flash, and other System 3 &amp;amp; 4 games).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBoardBenchTestAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Type 1 Sound board connections and grounding sound select header pins. Here, one end of a jumper wire is clipped to the ground plain of the board itself.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Grounding those sound select pins is exactly what the Driver Board does during a game solenoid diagnostic test. It fires solenoids 9-13 to ground the select pins and this triggers &#039;sound calls&#039; on System 3-6 games. If grounding the sound board pins works, then suspect cabling between the Sound Board and Driver Board or faulty transistors (or pre-drivers) on the Driver Board for the System 3-6a games. You can ground the transistor&#039;s metal tabs from the chart below, if this does not produce sounds then the cabling between Driver and Sound Boards is then suspected.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that &#039;&#039;&#039;grounding the center tab of a transistor&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;does not test the transistor(s)&#039;&#039;, it only proves that the cabling from that tab out to the sound board select pins has continuity. It does not prove the transistor(s) work as a switch under the CPU&#039;s control. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is true for &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;any testing of solenoids (or flashers) by grounding transistor tabs&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It only proves that the cabling from the Driver Board out to the device is intact, and that the device has power and can function when grounded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So the Solenoid portion of the diagnostic test will help you figure it out for a System 3-6 game. It can perhaps help for System 7 game too, although remember that sound calls are triggered from the MPU board instead.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 6 (and earlier) you will have a fault on the Driver Board, and specifically the solenoids in the range 9-13 if the following are true:&lt;br /&gt;
* The self test on the sound board works as expected,&lt;br /&gt;
* Grounding tabs on the Driver Board produces the same sounds,&lt;br /&gt;
* But the game&#039;s diagnostic tests do not trigger sounds when testing solenoids number 9-13.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If it fires the device, the problem is the transistors or the logic on the driverboard and then the PIA upstream from them. You should first replace both the associated TIP 120/102 and the matching 2n4401 pre-driver transistors on the Driver Board (a fairly easy fix) and re-test. Then follow Driver Board testing and repairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a transistor gets shorted &#039;on&#039; (or a 7408 IC is faulty) and one of the sound selects is constantly grounded from the Driver Board, you will certainly get fewer and usually wrong (or no) sounds played. This type of problem can be chased around for hours, if you don&#039;t work logically through the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;25%&amp;quot; border=2&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;Driver Board Positions&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 2J9 ||&amp;lt;font color=blue&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;font color=blue&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || 6 || 7 || 8&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 2J9 ||&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || 14 || 15&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;shows the 5 Sound Select Transistors on the bottom two rows of a System 3-6(a) Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If diagnostics don&#039;t work as you expect, as explained, ground the metal tabs of the TIP122 transistors (briefly - they may be real coils or flash lamps&amp;amp;#33;) on the bottom 2 rows of the driver board. You should hear 5 different sounds. The first 3 sound select transistors are at the bottom left of driver board. The first two the next row up are the remaining sound select transistors (solenoids 9-13 as shown on the chart above).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can of course also &#039;&#039;&#039;turn off the game&#039;&#039;&#039; and measure between the center tab and the input pins on the sound card with an DMM (meter set on continuity or Ohms). If you get high resistance readings, check for cold solder joints on the input pins of the sound board at 10J3. Then check the output pins on the Driver board at 2J9. Reflow the solder on all these pins. Do the other pins on the sound board at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another tip is that you should see the center tab of the &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue &amp;quot;sound transistors&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; running at about +5v DC on the driver board with the game running. If a tab is at zero volts, and others are at +5v then that grounded select points to the problem. Other TIP122 transistors could be at the coil potential, so have your DMM set to voltage and +50v or above for this test if it does not &#039;auto-range&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you get this far and can get 5 distinct sounds, then the problem is not the sound board, nor the connection to the driver board. With System 3-6, this could still be on the driver board and specifically: &lt;br /&gt;
* a power transistor TIP122, &lt;br /&gt;
* a matching 2n4401 pre-driver transistor , &lt;br /&gt;
* a 7408 logic IC&lt;br /&gt;
: and finally &lt;br /&gt;
* a 6821 PIA for Solenoids at IC5. As this is a 40 pin IC, it should be replaced as a last step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point just follow the driver board testing and repair guide to get further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Complete list of Driverboard 2J9 pins and the associated transistors (for Sys3-6) are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6 Driver Board 2J9 Sound Outputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Pin&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sol.&lt;br /&gt;
| Function &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Transistors&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Wire Colour&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;# 9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;0&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q31 / Q30&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt; / Black&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P8&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;(*)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;N/C&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P7&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#10 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q33 / Q32&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P6&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#16&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Coin Lockout*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q45 / Q44&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Grey&amp;gt;Grey&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P5&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#15&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Depends on game*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q43 / Q42&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Violet&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#14&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Credit Knocker*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q41 / Q40&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q39 / Q38&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q37 / Q36&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#f0e68c&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q35 / Q34&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Typical functions, but depends on the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
List of J3 sound select pins on the System 6 or 7 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6/7 Sound Board Inputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;10J3 Pin&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sol.&lt;br /&gt;
| Function &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Wire Colour&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;# 9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;0&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt; / Black&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#10 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P5&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#f0e68c&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P7&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;J3 P1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;(*)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;N/C&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 6, using only 5 solenoids for sound limits the number sound and speech calls. Makes 2&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;=&amp;amp;nbsp;32 so only 31 usable combinations, a call of all 0&#039;s being null. But (using Firepower as an example) you then can have all the combinations of maybe 20 sounds plus the 11 speech phrases it &amp;quot;knows&amp;quot;. So it&#039;s enough given the small amount of sound and speech memory they had to work with at the time. In fact it&#039;s amazing&amp;amp;#33; For more background, see: An interview with [http://www.firepowerpinball.com/downloads/Eugene_Jarvis_Interview.pdf&amp;quot; Eugene Jarvis], the sound engineer and programmer for Williams at the time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Changing the sound board won&#039;t cure the problem of a missing solenoid signal, and a major clue is that the sound board tests good, and is also good when grounding the 5 input pins at (Board #10) J3 input connector on the sound board.&amp;amp;nbsp; While the &amp;quot;in game&amp;quot; sounds or game diagnostics will play incorrectly or have missing sounds. For example, an email from someone said that their Firepower game could say &amp;quot;Power&amp;quot; but not &amp;quot;Fire&amp;quot;! A fairly easy diagnosis if you know the game, it pointed to transistor Q35 (a TIP122, a better replacement is the TIP102) which was completely missing from the Driver board. Transistors on the bottom row often get bent back and forth and snap clean off - hard to spot if you aren&#039;t familiar with inspecting the Driver Board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That transistor&#039;s center tab connects to 2J9 pin1 and solenoid 11 then fires sound select #2, according to the table above. Without that sound select being triggered, only half the game sounds could be produced (2&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-1&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;=&amp;amp;nbsp;15). &amp;quot;Fire&amp;quot; was one of the missing sounds, there were others but they may have not been so obvious to the owner. They would not be listed in the manual as a sound triggered by an achievement (making to rollovers F-I-R-E in this case). The point is to use all the information available to help determine the root cause of your fault.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7 Sound Selects===&lt;br /&gt;
By System 7, Williams had stopped using solenoids to fire sounds and had added a dedicated Sound/Comma PIA on the CPU board to trigger sound/speech. This meant more playfield coils and even flash lamps were now possible, as the Driver Board wasn&#039;t used to trigger the Sound Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On a Black Knight and later games, the fault could still be on the MPU board. Perhaps PIA 5 (IC36 a 6821 PIA) is suspect as this drives the sound board (and display commas) only. Again you can trigger sound selects by grounding pins on the sound board, and then move back to the header pins of the MPU at 1J8. The pins are12,11,10,9,8 in that order for the 5 sound selects 0-4 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The outputs of the IC36 PIA at PA0-PA6 connects to 1J8 starting at pin 12 (1J8 P12) and run backwards numbered as the Sound Selects in the table below:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;25%&amp;quot; border=2&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; |&#039;&#039;&#039;SYS 7 1J8 Sound &amp;amp; Comma Outputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Pin&lt;br /&gt;
! Function&lt;br /&gt;
! Wire Colour&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P1 || Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4 || &amp;lt;font color= Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / White &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P2 || Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2 || &amp;lt;font color= Violet&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P3 || Key (*) || N/C&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P4-7 || No Connection || White&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P8 || Sound Select 4 || &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#FFCC00&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Yellow&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P9 || Sound Select 3 || &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P10 || Sound Select 2 || &amp;lt;font color= Blue&amp;gt;Blue&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P11 || Sound Select 1 || &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P12 || Sound Select 0 || &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#FFCC00&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Yellow&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In theory Williams had the ability to trigger Sound Selects 0-6 from the System 7 MPU board, and could have programmed 127 sound / speech calls. But the sound boards at the time never used that many, to my knowledge. So you only need to worry about the same 5 sound selects 0-4. Be sure to first &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;check the output pins at 1J8 on the MPU Board for cold solder joints&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;, before replacing the 40 pin PIA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Put the Sound/Speech Board on the Bench===&lt;br /&gt;
By this point, it is likely that there is a sound board fault. If you don&#039;t feel comfortable troubleshooting or don&#039;t want to get involved with low level board repairs, there are repair services available--check pinball communities/forums for recommendations. [[Williams_System_3_-_7#If All Else Fails|Reproduction sound and speech boards]] are also available if all else fails.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Pinouts.JPG|300px|left|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Pinouts]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If none of this helped so far, read the rest of the section below. The boards will likely need to be bench tested in order to proceed with testing. Any PC power supply has the +12v and -12v DC that will be necessary for bench testing, which are normally located on the motherboard connectors. The older the PC power supply, the better, as they will have a power switch, but there are two pins that can be jumpered (or connected to a switch) to enable the voltage outputs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Sound Bench.JPG|300px|left|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Connected to an AT Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Sound Test Points.JPG|300px|right|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Connections for an AT Power Supply (Four Sound Board Test Points)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Search for an &amp;quot;AT Power supply&amp;quot; on the web for the connector locations or measure them with the DMM. The wires on one example were colored Yellow (+12v) and Blue (-12v). Ground was black as usual. Sliding the existing pins from the motherboard connector housing, and they will potentially fit right in a .156&amp;quot; socket to connect to the sound board. The +12 and -12 goes to the outsides of a 9 pin connector (pins 1 &amp;amp; 9) and the ground to the center pin (pin 5). It doesn&#039;t matter which way around the connector is installed--if the Bridge Rectifier (BR) is working it will sort it out by conducting through the correct diodes.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another method is to connect the AT power supply connections with alligator test leads directly to the four test points on the sound board. However, this method will not ensure that the bridge rectifer on the sound board is working or not.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point refer to [[Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair|Leon Borre&#039;s sound board test link]]. He has an excellent approach to a sound board that is dead. A copy of his sound test ROM will need to be burned to an EPROM. A logic probe (under $20) will also be needed, but Leon describes how to make an LED test probe with some wire, an LED, and a resistor which costs a few cents. The logic probe will be more versatile and easier to use. As mentioned before, the Test ROM can check the CPU, memory and also exercises the PIA inputs/outputs. An added bonus is that the test ROM will allow the board to boot, even though there are faults on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Checking for Sounds Prior to the Sound Amplifier===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Preamp Probe.JPG|300px|left|thumb|An unamplified speaker used to probe for sounds before the sound amplifier]]&lt;br /&gt;
A method to test for sounds prior to the amplifier is to check the output of the D/A converter. This can be accomplished by building a speaker set up. It starts with a low wattage speaker, which does not need amplification to produce sounds. A speaker from an old computer case is a great source. After acquiring a speaker, solder two wire leads to it. Then, solder an alligator test clip to one of the leads, and a small piece of solid, copper, house wire (14 or 12 gauge romex works well) or a small finishing nail to the other lead. The second lead will be used to probe the sound output before amplification. This speaker test set up can be used on any other brand sound board too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the speaker test set up is constructed, clip the alligator test lead to ground. Then, place the probe lead on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; collector leg / solder pad of the Q2 transistor, as shown in the picture. Once the probe is in place, press the sound board test button. The speaker will have to be placed close to one&#039;s ear to hear the sounds, if any sounds are being output. If the sounds are being heard, either the amp (IC1 - TDA2002) has failed, has lost connection (cold solder joints), or is not being powered properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally the probe would be used to check the sound output right on the leg of the D/A converter (IC13 - 1408). However, pin 4 of IC13 (the output) is adjacent to pin 3, which inputs the -12vdc power to the D/A converter. It is much safer to use the collector leg of Q2 as a probing point to avoid shorting pins 3 and 4 together.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the if the 1408 DAC has failed, it can be subbed with the more readily available DAC0808. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Getting Sound and Speech Working Together===&lt;br /&gt;
The very first thing is to make sure you have the correct jumper settings and ROM types.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can NOT &amp;quot;mix and match&amp;quot; sound and speech ROMs as you like.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My experience is on Williams System 4-7 pinball where the Sound ROMs are 2716 Eproms and the Speech are always 2532 Eproms. The exceptions are video games (and a few pinballs), such as Defender, Sinistar, Robotron and Joust which use a 2532 on the sound board ROM and each has special jumper settings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;You need the correct Sound ROM type for your game&#039;s Speech ROMs&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firepower &#039;&#039;&#039;and&#039;&#039;&#039; Alien Poker both use &amp;quot;WMS Sound ROM 3&amp;quot; no matter &#039;&#039;&#039;what&#039;&#039;&#039; the Alien Poker manuals (or ROM download archives) say. It&#039;s the only way I ever got speech to work on my Alien Poker. If you have [[Blackout]], you will need a 2716 Sound ROM 2 to go with Blackout&#039;s 2532 Speech ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is mainly a warning if you will be plugging together different boards on a workbench or when troubleshooting a problem, don&#039;t trust that all Sound ROMs work with all speech boards !&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram on placement of the Speech ICs, as the layout of the ROMs aren&#039;t very logical. Check they are correct. This diagram works for any of this type of Speech Daughter board. Replace your game number nnn in ST-nnn-ROM# format. &lt;br /&gt;
See examples for [[Firepower]] (497), [[Alien Poker]] (501) and [[Black Knight]] (500), which are among my favourites. &lt;br /&gt;
The information is provided for clarity, it is recommended that you replace Original Speech Mask Roms with newer 2532 Eproms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; unless a System 9 speech board is available with jumpers, 2732 Eproms cannot be used for the speech board, unless the board is [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Speech ROM IC socket locations:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Speech-ICs.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also distrust the switch settings and be aware that you could have a faulty DIP switch on the Type 2 board. It can happen! Test by removing the 2-way switch, or jumpering across the back of the switch. If DS1-2 is not connecting, you will hear sounds- but no speech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clue here is that if you press the sound board diagnostic switch, you hear BOTH sounds and speech.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Speech Scanbe.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 6/7 Speech Board with Scanbe Sockets]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Speech Scanbe Socket.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Identifying Scanbe Sockets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Speech ROMs and Speech Board sockets should eliminated, you can measure continuity on all pins from the Speech ROM to the bottom of the socket or back of board before replacing Sockets. If they say &#039;&#039;&#039;SCANBE&#039;&#039;&#039; then replace them as they will be faulty. &lt;br /&gt;
: Gaps in speech usually point to a faulty Speech ROM, look in the manuals for which ROMs hold the missing words.&lt;br /&gt;
: Suspect the logic selects on the sound board or the 40-way IDC connection between the speech board to the sound board. Watching for &#039;chip select&#039; pins 20 on each Speech ROM with a logic probe will help you see the chips being selected by the sound board. Again knowing which ROMs hold the missing phrases will help. No speech selects can point to the interboard cables, or missing outputs from IC2 (a 7442 decoder) &#039;&#039;&#039;on the Sound Board&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
:Bear in mind that the Speech card is an &#039;expansion board&#039; to hold ROM space for the speech and the digital/analogue mixer. The address and data buses extend across the &#039;40-way&#039; IDC connector in a similar way to the connector between the MPU and Driver Board. Except the connector solution is more robust and IDC was still used until recently to connect IDE PC hard drives. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other problems that could cause sounds but missing speech include:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
* W1 is jumpered, &lt;br /&gt;
* W9 is NOT jumpered (W4 is probably in place), &lt;br /&gt;
* IC7 (inverter) faulty,&lt;br /&gt;
* IC10 (6821 PIA) is faulty (use Leon&#039;s Sound Board test chip) &lt;br /&gt;
* Faulty speech board (no speech) or speech ROMs are installed incorrectly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switch 2 MUST be ON for speech. OFF for no speech. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switch 1 selects between Tones and Synth Sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
ON for musical tones (more like bings and bongs), &lt;br /&gt;
OFF for Synthesized Sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadd&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;ing=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;10%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=2 &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 2&lt;br /&gt;
| ON&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 1&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;DS1 Set correctly for Sounds and Speech.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;10%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=2&lt;br /&gt;
| SW 2&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 1&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp; &#039;&#039;&#039;DS1: Set for Sounds only.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp; You will also have to &#039;&#039;&#039;jumper W1&#039;&#039;&#039; if this is not in place.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Speech Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
===Common failure parts===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7SpeechBoardBefore.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Speech board sockets. These are Molex, but &amp;quot;they gotta go&amp;quot;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7SpeechBoardAfter.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Nice twin wipe sockets, which are preferred over machine pin sockets.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first and most important action when debugging a Speech board is to eliminate all of the common failure issues. With these issues out of the way, it is much easier to focus on the real issues preventing proper operation. And, eliminating these typical trouble areas almost always brings the board back to full operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The most frequent reason for failure of the speech board are the OEM sockets. ScanBe sockets, or white sockets pictured here, should be replaced. If a ROM can be easily removed using only your fingers, the socket should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also check the ribbon cable to the sound card. It breaks frequently at pin 1 which carries the 5V Analog voltage. If you replace the cable make sure that you do not damage the J1 connector. The part is either NLA or so obscure no one stocks it. Fortunately you can gently pull off the cover and reuse it with a new cable. The counterpart is a standard ribbon connector and must be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your speech is garbled and you replaced the MC1458 chips the 55516 CVSD at location IC1 might be bad. This is somewhat rare but not unheard of. The part is long since obsolete and hard to source. It can be replaced with a 55532, 55536 or 55564. Only the 55564, which was used up to the Williams WPC era, seems to be somewhat available. Check your favorite pinball shop for it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As with all electronics other parts can fail but the above parts are responsible for around 95% of all speech card failures. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using the Sound Board Test ROM===&lt;br /&gt;
Leon&#039;s test ROM and instructions will be very useful. The ROM and instructions are available [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The the test chip will not start on a Type 2 board with jumper W1 missing, unless the speech card is &lt;br /&gt;
also connected. Mine didn&#039;t start &amp;quot;pulsing&amp;quot; without the speech card. You also need &lt;br /&gt;
to put the Test code on a 2716 Eprom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a key tip:  Jumper W1, and set DS1: SW1 and SW2 to OFF and &#039;&#039;&#039;run without a speech board&#039;&#039;&#039; until the sound is working 100%.   Do this now if you haven&#039;t removed the speech board already. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This may not be obvious at first, but you have to get back to a basic setup and work forward from there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following is an attempt to list notable Williams games that used these boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are conflicting lists, Hyperball could be a 2532 ROM #8. as the file hypsnd12.532 has a checksum of 0x25A8 - which doesn&#039;t match other sound ROM images.  So the list is not perfect.  Some corrections have been as of Feb 2011 after more research. If you have updates or can confirm Williams sound ROM numbers (and compared checksums) then please go ahead and edit this table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games with speech in the first table are right, I&#039;m less happy with the Video games and Hyperball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams&amp;amp;nbsp;Pinball Games which use a Type 2 Sound Board and a Speech Board:&lt;br /&gt;
{|  cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!NAME &lt;br /&gt;
!SYS&lt;br /&gt;
!GAME&lt;br /&gt;
!WMS SOUND ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Blackout&lt;br /&gt;
| 6&lt;br /&gt;
| 495&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 2&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Gorgar&lt;br /&gt;
| 6&lt;br /&gt;
| 496&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 2&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Firepower &amp;lt;font color=Blue size=2&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| 6&lt;br /&gt;
| 497&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=2&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| 7&lt;br /&gt;
| 500&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Alien Poker&lt;br /&gt;
| 6a&lt;br /&gt;
| 501&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3 &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;confirmed&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Jungle Lord&lt;br /&gt;
| 7&lt;br /&gt;
| 503&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Pharoah&lt;br /&gt;
| 7&lt;br /&gt;
| 504&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 6&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Steve Ritchie Game Design&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Video Games with Sound and Speech Board:&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sinistar (cockpit front) &amp;amp; Upright, Type 2,&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;ROM 9&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Pinball Games with Sound Boards Only:&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
! NAME&lt;br /&gt;
! SYS&lt;br /&gt;
!GAME &lt;br /&gt;
!WMS BOARD, SOUND ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Flash &amp;lt;font color=Blue size=2&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|486&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Warp&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|489&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Stellar Wars &amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|490&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Laser Ball&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|493&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 2&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Scorpion&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|494&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Algar&lt;br /&gt;
|6a&lt;br /&gt;
|499&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Cosmic Gunfight&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|502&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board, ROM 12&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Solar Fire&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|507&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 7&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Hyperball &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(n)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|509&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
SPECIAL&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 8 ?&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|510&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Fantasy&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|515&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 13&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Warlock (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|516&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 14&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Defender (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|517&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 15&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Joust (2 player pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|519&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
SPECIAL &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Snd_IC12.532 ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Laser Cue&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|520&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Firepower II &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(m)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|521&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 13&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;**&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|530&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board, ROM 3 &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
ROM 4 is on my game&amp;amp;#33;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;(r) &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Steve Ritchie Game Design&lt;br /&gt;
    &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;(m)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; Mark Ritchie Game Design&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;(n)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; Not a Pinball, a gun game that shoots tiny pinballs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Sound ROM 1 was used from World Cup #481 to Scorpion #494, but not Laser Ball from my notes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;**&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Quite a rare and beautiful pinball. Only 100 were produced, the last Williams System 7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is some useful [http://pin-logic.com/early_williams_pinball_game.htm pinball sound file checksum] information. At [http://pin-logic.com Tom Callahan&#039;s pinlogic.com]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|  cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!NAME&lt;br /&gt;
!WMS BOARD &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Bubbles&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Defender (Video)&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Joust (Video)&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&amp;quot;VIDEO&amp;quot; &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(Checksum matches ROM 4 from Algar and Barracora)&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Robotron 2048&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Sinistar (cockpit rear)&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 10&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Please Note: VIDEO&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROMS and those for Joust (a 2 player head to head pin) and Hyperball are 2532 Eproms&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An annoying fact is that from around System 7, most of the WMS sound ROM files are all &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;named something like &#039;&#039;&#039;SND_IC12.716 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;, which makes them harder to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Running a Type 2 Sound Board with a 6802 CPU===&lt;br /&gt;
You might not have an 6808 CPU, or you might upgrade to a 6802 because then there is one less IC (the 6810 RAM) to go wrong.  You can leave the 6810 (as it&#039;s not socketed) if the card functions with it in place.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can get the Type 2 board to run on a 6802 CPU, without a working 6810 RAM in IC11.  To do this you cut a track called W14. It isn&#039;t a 0 ohm resistor (or a real jumper), it&#039;s a track located under R30, the 3rd resistor in from Left on the Bottom Left of the board. W14 grounds pin 36 of the processor for a 6808 CPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to use a 6802, you cut the track W14. Pin 36 will go high through the 4.7K &amp;quot;pull up&amp;quot; resistor at R30. You could then remove the 6810 RAM as the 6802 has internal RAM. My advice is again to just &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;leave it in place&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; if the card functions with it there. I had to rework tracks damaged by removing a 6810 on one sound board being repaired.  Avoid making extra work for yourself, and &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;spend more time playing pinball&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;.  That way it can be reverted back to 6808 operation in future. Good instructions are currently at [http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/techwilliamshardwareidsound.html www.robotron-2084.co.uk].  A useful site for arcade video and pinball and Dave has a nice Defender pinball to look at while you&#039;re there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Modifying the System 6/7 Speech Board to Use 2732 EPROMs===&lt;br /&gt;
The original System 6/7 speech board is setup to only use 2532 EPROMs.  With the following simple modifications, a speech board can use 2732 EPROMs instead, if the need arises.  Please be aware that although these modifications are reversible, it is not nearly as easy to change a modified board using 2732 EPROMs back to a board which uses 2532 EPROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#On the component side of the board, there is a trace which runs beneath the ribbon cable connection and between pins 11 and 12 of U5 (the lowest two pins on the left).  Cut this trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the board over to the solder side.  The orientation of the board in the pic below is with the ribbon cable connection on the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate pin 18 of U5.  There is a trace between pin 18 of U5 and a via down and to the right of it.  To verify the correct via, check continuity between pin 13 of the ribbon cable (fourth pin up on far right of the ribbon connections) and the via.  Cut the trace between this via and pin 18 of U5&lt;br /&gt;
#There is another via slightly down and to the right of the previously discussed via.  This second via will have continuity between it and pin 12 on the ribbon cable (third pin up on far left of the ribbon connections).  The via will also have continuity between pin 21 of U5.  Using wire wrap or a thin gauge wire, tie these two vias together.&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate pin 18 of U5 and pin 12 of U4 (down and to the left of U5 pin 18). Again using wire wrap or a thin gauge wire, tie pin 18 of U5 to pin 12 of U4.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 6/7 Speech Board 2732 EPROM Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys67 Speech 2732 Mod Front.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Trace cut on component side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys67 Speech 2732 Mod Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Trace cut and two jumpers added on solder side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Replacing the on-board volume control with a remote volume pot (System 4)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0760.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 4 original volume pot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0761.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Connector 10J4, with pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 bridged with solder.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the volume pot on your system 4 or later sound board fails or otherwise needs replacement, it&#039;s often difficult (or impossible) to find a direct matching part.  In such cases adding a remote volume pot may be the only solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing to do is flip the board over and make sure that somebody hasn&#039;t bridged pins 1 and 2 of connector 10J4, as shown here.  If it has been bridged, remove the solder bridge and solder the pins independently to the board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0762.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Taking a reading across volume pot legs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0763.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Taking a reading across volume pot legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Take a resistance reading across the existing volume potentiometer&#039;s legs.  If you get a reading above 4K ohms, the potentiometer is not mostly shorted and will not require its leg to be cut as detailed below.  (i.e. you may skip that step below.)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This potentiometer is not mostly shorted and could be left un-cut.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0764.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Cutting the volume pot&#039;s left leg.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0765.jpg|300px|thumb|right|After cutting volume pot&#039;s left leg.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the previous resistance reading reads less than 4K ohms, then one leg of the potentiometer &#039;&#039;&#039;must&#039;&#039;&#039; be cut.  (This one was cut for the sake of demonstration.)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the cut, the potentiometer should look similar to this.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0766.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Jumper added across volume pot legs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0767.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Replacement potentiometer.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;In all cases, a jumper must be added to the back side of the board to bypass what is left of the old potentiometer.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A new 5k-ohm, audio (logarithmic) taper potentiometer must be sourced.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0768.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Wiring of new potentiometer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0769.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Wiring of 10P4.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Here a radio shack 271-1720 potentiometer was used.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three wires must be run between the potentiometer and 10P4, the plug that connects to 10J4.  The wires must then be connected to 10P4, as shown.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Plug the new 10P4 into 10J4, and the on-board volume pot will be bypassed with the new external pot.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===If All Else Fails===&lt;br /&gt;
You can source a replacement sound/speech board.  It may be more cost effective than sending out your sound boards to be fixed, especially as you may be able to sell the original boards to get back some of the initial outlay.  These are good quality products, the price isn&#039;t bad and they should last for many years to come.  James Kohout&#039;s [http://www.pinballpcb.com pinballpcb.com]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Solenoid Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Controlled Solenoids===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSPharoahExtraGround.jpg|300px|thumb|left|In addition to the ground braid being screwed to this post, a white wire with red stripe is also connected.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some Williams games provide ground for coils via an extra wire (white/red) that must be connected to the backbox ground stud as shown in the picture at left. If this wire is not connected, some coils will not work. An example is Pharaoh, which uses this path to ground for both &amp;quot;Magna Save&amp;quot; magnets and the hidden tomb coils.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: in the example picture, a nut has been used to replace the typical &amp;quot;wing nut&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special Note Regarding Coin Lockout Coil and Free Play====&lt;br /&gt;
When some games (perhaps all games but at least Flash using Green ROMs) are set on &amp;quot;free play&amp;quot;, by setting adjustment 18 to zero, the coin lockout coil will not be turned on. This makes sense since when free play is enabled, coins should drop straight through the coin mech and into the coin return.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7SpecialSolenoidDrives.jpg ‎||left||thumb||300px||A closeup of the special solenoid circuitry showing transistors Q2 through Q12. Note that these transistors are not numbered row and column sequentially. Argh!]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7SpecialSolenoidDiagram.jpg ‎||right||thumb||300px||Diagram of Williams System 3-7 Driver Board Special Solenoid Section]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Special Solenoid drives switch power to ground for pop bumpers and sling shots. This &amp;quot;special&amp;quot; circuitry was implemented with the thought that the switch matrix could not be polled rapidly enough for these devices to be highly responsive. The drive transistors can be switched on either by a switch closure on the device, or under software control by the CPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Special Solenoid drive transistors, Q2 through Q12, are located just above the flipper power ground enable relay Z1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flaw in this circuitry is that a &amp;quot;one shot&amp;quot; was not implemented (ala Gottlieb System 80 Pop Bumper Driver Boards).  One shot circuitry only allows the associated solenoid to engage once per switch closure.  In the case of the Williams special solenoids, as long as the switch is tied to ground, the solenoid will be engaged.  As long as a device switch (pop bumper or sling) is closed, then coil power will be switched to ground continuously, eventually overheating and killing the associated TIP-122 (or TIP-102) transistor and / or the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is also a lack of &amp;quot;intelligence&amp;quot; in the software as was implemented eventually in WPC games. WPC games disable a device if the device&#039;s associated switch is sensed closed 10 times in succession without sensing any other switch closure. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Arc Suppression Resistor/Capacitor for Special Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
See also: [[#Wetting_Current_Resistor.2FCapacitor_for_Special_Solenoids|Wetting Current Resistor/Capacitor for Special Solenoids]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While a certain amount of current is necessary to help keep contacts clean, too much current can result in arcing when a switch is opened, which over time, can cause pitting and erode the contacts. To prevent this, an RC network is placed across the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the contacts in an arc suppression circuit open, the applied voltage is placed across the capacitor and not the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The capacitor charges at a rate faster than the contacts open which prevents an arc from forming across the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
When the contacts close, the inrush current from the charged capacitor and source can be substantially higher than the contacts can safely conduct, causing the contacts to deteriorate. This is why it is important to have a resistor in series with the capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
The resistor acts as a current limiter which reduces the inrush current by a significant amount. The arc produced at the contact closure is greatly reduced, thus extending the service life of the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reference: https://testguy.net/content/362-Arc-suppression-circuits &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Wetting Current Resistor/Capacitor for Special Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System4SpoonSwitch.jpg  ‎||left||thumb||300px||A resistor/capacitor connected across a pop bumper spoon switch.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RCNetworkSystem4.jpg ‎||right||thumb||300px||The schematic for the circuit as implemented for slingshot switches.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a 22uf capacitor and a 100ohm resistor, themselves connected in series, wired across special solenoid switches to provide a minimum &amp;quot;wetting current&amp;quot; across the switch contacts. This implementation also provides some measure of &amp;quot;electrical debouncing&amp;quot; of the switch. In the image at left, the black wire is coil power from the power supply. The orange wire is the path back to ground via a driver board special solenoid drive transistor. The green and white wires are switch matrix wires for the &amp;quot;scoring switch&amp;quot;. A 1N4004 switch isolation diode is used just like any other switch matrix switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wetting_current&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The special solenoid switch contacts are pulled high to 5 VDC through a 4.7K ohm resistor on the driver board. When the special solenoid switch closes, this voltage is shunted to ground resulting in a current through the contacts of approximately 1 mA. This very low &amp;quot;wetting current&amp;quot; is insufficient to keep the contact surfaces clean and free from dirt and oxides. An RC network is placed across the contacts to increase the wetting current and help break through any dirt or oxidation that has formed on the contact surfaces. When the contacts are open, the capacitor charges to 5 VDC through the 4.7K and 100 ohm resistors in series. When the contacts close, the capacitor discharges through the contacts and the 100 ohm resistor, resulting in a momentary peak current of approximately 50 mA. This discharge wetting current is sufficient to burn off any surface film that has built up on the contacts. Once the contacts open again, the capacitor begins charging again and effectively extending the contact closure time. This also provides some amount of electrical debouncing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Lamp Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===General Illumination Lamps===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PowerSupplyBurn.jpg||left||thumb||300px||An extreme example of high current damage to the general illumination traces of a System 7 power supply.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest weaknesses of the System 7 board set (starting with the later run of Black Knight) is the general illumination PCB connection. The configuration of that connection evolved from a two pin Molex connector into four (two for AC in, two for AC return) 18 gauge wires soldered directly to the board and connected to the transformer secondary with a 4-pin Molex connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Controlled Lamps (Lamp Matrix)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One source of problems with the lamp matrix can be the 27 ohm 3 watt resistors used for the lamp columns.  These resistors put out a &#039;&#039;&#039;ton&#039;&#039;&#039; of heat!  In some extreme instances, they can get so hot that they will literally melt the solder which holds them to the driver board, and fail off the board.  It is best to replace these resistors with 27 ohm 5 watt resistors.  The 5 watt variants can dissipate the heat a little better.  When replacing these resistors, make certain to allow enough space under them to allow for air cooling.  Even though it is best to use higher wattage resistors, they still put out a fair amount of heat. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=350px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 3-7 Driver Board Lamp Matrix Resistors&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wmsdriver_heatdamagedresistors.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Old resistors in questionable condition due to overheating.  Note these are 3 watt resistors as shipped by WMS.  Later boards used 5 watt versions.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Using a pencil to allow proper spacing of the resistors from the driver board.  One by one, place the legs of the resistors through the circuit board, and bend the legs over.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Flip the board over, and allow the resistors to &amp;quot;hang&amp;quot; off the board.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors After.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;New resistors soldered on the board with ample air flow beneath them.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ResistorRaising.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Another method of raising the resistors. Be sure to remove the cardboard when complete.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem3-7LampMatrixResistorsRaised.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Side view of resistors raised with ample air flow beneath them.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Testing the Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a generic [[media:13-lampwiring.pdf|Lamp Matrix Diagram]] which you can refer to for testing the lamp matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Reducing heat by replacing the TIP-42 lamp drive transistors and eliminating the 27 ohm current limiting resistors====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. The TIP42 transistors are bipolar PNP transistors, and require a lot of drive current on the base. The current through the 27 ohm resistors does not even go to lamps, just to the base. The issue starts when the 40 pin interface connector becomes faulty. If the lamp scan update is not received by the driver board, it will sit on one selected column of lamps.. and promptly burn one 27 ohm resistor off the board, possibly burning a hole in the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first method below is simpler to implement, but the second method is included, as it has been implemented for many years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the first upgrade method, replace the 8 TIP42 transistors with the darlington version, which require much less current. Get 8 TIP125 transistors, and replace the 8 original transistors, being careful to keep them oriented the same way. Masking tape can keep all 8 lined up while soldering. The second step is to remove all 8 of the 27 ohm resistors, and replace them with 10K 1/4W resistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The second method uses modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By using a &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; circuit with two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half, the MOSFET will be driven with 9 VDC Vgs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys3-7_Lamp_FETs_Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-7 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q63, Q65, Q67, Q69, Q71, Q73, Q75, Q77&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R149-R156&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistors R141-R148&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-7FETs.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Another implementation of 1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys3-7_1K_Resistor_Lamp_FETs_Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Closeup of 1 kohm resistors added to solder side of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pay close attention when adding the 1 Kohm resistors to the solder side of the driver board on heavily burnt / delaminated boards.  The resistor leg and / or the end of resistor leg comes within close proximity of the same column or adjacent column traces.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7DriverFETModAlternate.jpg ‎|300px|left|thumb|Another implementation of 1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board. This implementation requires less resistor leg bending and hence, a much easier install.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7FETFrontSideOnlyMod.jpg ‎|300px|right|thumb|A &amp;quot;component side only&amp;quot; implementation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Victor, Pinsider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Yet more ways to efficiently add the voltage dividing resistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Flash Lamp Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3-7 flash lamps (and System 9/11 also) are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 3-7 (and 11) Warming Board Implementation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:FPWarming.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Firepower warming board. The 330ohm resistor has clearly failed. This board is connected to the game wiring differently than Gorgar and is not factory, yet it works. The red wires are power. It&#039;s difficult to see in this pic but a yellow wire is also connected to the red wires. That yellow wire connects to two flashlamps in series. The other yellow wire returns from those flashlamps and is connected to the 1ohm and 330ohm resistors. Power finds ground through the 330ohm resistor and the black wire. This forms the &amp;quot;warming circuit&amp;quot;. Power also finds ground through the 1ohm resistor, the brown/violet wire and the driver board drive transistor.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:FirePowerWarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Firepower warming board. The 330ohm resistor has been replaced. This board is also connected to the game wiring differently than Gorgar and is not factory, yet it works. The two yellow wires connect to two flashlamps in series. Red is flashlamp power. Black is ground. The remaining wire is a path to ground via the drive transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GorgarWarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Gorgar warming board. The two yellow wires connect to two flashlamps in series. Red is flashlamp power. Black is ground. The remaining brown/violet wire is a path to ground via the drive transistor. This warming board wiring matches the schematics and corresponds to factory wiring.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WarmingResistorSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Warming Resistor circuit shown in Stellar Wars schematics. Note the two #89 lamps wired in series. They are dimly lit with power from the red wire, through the 1 ohm resistor, through the lamps, through the 330 ohm resistor, and then to ground. They will fully light when the drive transistor that services the GRY-BLK wire is switched on, providing a low resistance path to ground and effectively removing the 330 ohm resistor from the circuit.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The diagram at left shows the physical connections to be made by the warming board. The schematic snippet at right is from Stellar Wars (System 4) and accurately depicts connections. The schematic contained in Gorgar is not correct for this circuit. Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Switch Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WARNINGS:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Never use a file, sandpaper, or anything more abrasive than an old business card to clean gold flashed switches. Doing so will remove the gold flashing and permanently ruin the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
*Never adjust switches with the game powered on. It is far too easy to short the switch, or your adjustment tool, to adjacent power (lamps or solenoids) and damage the switch matrix circuitry on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only switches that can be filed are tungsten switches which are both materially and physically quite different from gold flashed switches. In a System 3-7 game, the only tungsten switches are the cabinet flipper buttons and the flipper mechanism end-of-stroke switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tungsten cabinet flipper switches and end-of-stroke switches &amp;quot;arc&amp;quot; and will become blackened (or whitened) and pitted over time. Once this happens, the resistance between the switch pair increases, which reduces electric current, which reduces coil power, which reduces flipper strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switches vary from game to game, most are standard for WMS System 3-7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A few of the common switches are listed here:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; |System 3-7 Switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Common use&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|SW-1A-118 || Spinner Blade switch&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-124 || Rollover Lanes (inlanes/outlanes as well)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-130-1 || Switch Rightmost on Ball Runway (Ball Locks, with round white nylon piece on leaf end)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-136   || 2nd Ball Runway Switch (typical, depending on game)  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-137   || 3rd Ball Runway Switch (typical, depending on game)  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-138   || Shooter Lane Switch&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-139   || Lane Change Switch (can use SW-1A-150, usually stacked to right flipper or right EOS)&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These were used throughout the Williams games: &lt;br /&gt;
Examples are for the above include System 3, System 4 (Flash), System 6(a) (Firepower and Alien Poker), System 7 (Black Knight).  Some appear on F-14 Tomcat (’87) and further, even after most Ball Ramp switches had changed over to micro switches.  Black knight also used micro switch kits, which Williams provided as a field replacement kit for operators.  Drop Targets also had factory micro-switch adapters fitted later to make them more reliable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Switch Assembly Note&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;:  The Williams factory (or more accurately their suppliers) assembled many switches so one of the blades was facing the wrong way.  It should have two gold contacts facing each other, where in fact one blade faces so that the rough-sided rivet is making contact.  If you have an intermittent switch, it can be worth the time to de-solder it and remove from the game and then carefully pry the switch stack apart and reassemble the switch so the gold contacts face toward each other.  Keep the exact order of spacers and just reverse the one blade.  While there, carefully clean the switch contacts with naptha and a clean cloth.  Again, please don&#039;t use emery (or files) on these switch points!  Once the gold has worn, they form &amp;quot;dead spots&amp;quot; and won&#039;t work reliably.  Another symptom of the misassembled switch stacks is multiple switch closures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How the Switch Matrix Works===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First of all, a switch is usually an electro-mechanical device with moving parts.  This includes leaf blade switches, tilt switches (where the ring is fixed and the plumb bob is the moving part of the switch) and micro-switches.  When a mechanical switch closes the contacts tend to oscillate before coming to rest.  It literally &#039;bounces&#039; several times before remaining closed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU could see the rapid open/close events as multiple switch closures, so there is usually some &#039;debounce logic&#039; built into switch matrix reading programs.  The CPU sees a switch closure and then &#039;checks back&#039; to see if it remained closed as few milliseconds later.  If it is closed, the CPU processes the event once, scoring the correct value or in some cases triggering a solenoid to fire. In the case of Williams 3-7 games, the switch debouncing for normal switches is done at the software level; unlike other contemporary manufacturers&#039; method, Williams&#039; software is more sophisticated in that the definition of switches include the ability to treat a switch as fast-response (example: spinner switch), normal response (lane rollovers - longer &#039;ignore time&#039; to prevent duplicate reads on a slow traveling ball), and the longest time (trough switches - where the ball would travel over the first 2 switches on a multiball machine, you would not want those to react unless a ball were truly in the trough).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As an aside, an optical switch (or opto) has no moving parts and so doesn&#039;t suffer from mechanical switch &#039;bounce&#039;.  (An optical switch can suffer from electronic switch bounce - many rapid activations per second - which is why they usually utilize circuitry known as a Schmitt Trigger to lower the probability of debounce errors). It also shouldn&#039;t need adjustment or in theory wear out as quickly as say a micro-switch. However, an opto needs additional circuits and is not as simple to work on or replace as other switch types.  Although you can not see an infrared transmitter with you naked eye, you can look at it with a digital camera. Optos were never used in System 3-7 games, although they were engineered and prototyped just at the end of System 7. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring up every switch separately with multiple wires running to the backbox would be expensive in the amount of wiring and in the number of inputs required to the game&#039;s logic.  Rather than do that, the engineers designed a switch matrix with 8 column wires and 8 row wires, creating a &#039;matrix&#039; of 8x8 giving a total of 64 possible switches.  Not all of these switch positions are used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first column of the switch matrix (COL 1) is dedicated to the same switches on the System 3-7 games.  You can check in a manual, but these will be the cabinet tilts, the coin switches which sense coin drops, the credit button (to start a game) and the high score reset which is also in the cabinet (on the coin door).  In order from row 1 through row 8, they are the plumb bob tilt, ball roll tilt, credit button, right coin chute, center coin chute, left coin chute, slam tilt, and high score reset button.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the most part other switches will be on the playfield (exceptions could be a lane change or magnasave button/switch). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So how is the switch matrix read by the MPU?  It uses the most useful Peripheral I/O device in this pinball era, the Motorola 6821 PIA (earlier this was the MC6820 PIA).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6821 is made up of two 8 bit ports, one port is known as &#039;Port A&#039; and the other &#039;Port B&#039;. Any of the 16 pins can be configured as inputs or outputs.  That&#039;s exactly what&#039;s needed to drive our Switch Matrix!  An 8-way output port B to &#039;send&#039; (or strobe) down the Columns to the switches, and an 8-way input port A to &#039;read&#039; the Rows from the switches.  The Columns are known commonly as &#039;Drives&#039; or &#039;Strobes&#039; and the Rows are known as &#039;Returns&#039; for this reason.  In a similar way (an 8x8 matrix) another PIA is used for the Lamp Matrix.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch matrix PIA is at IC11 on the Driver Board (also called PIA II).  This PIA doesn&#039;t drive the switch matrix directly from it&#039;s TTL output pins. There are +5v powered &#039;pull-up&#039; resistors and 4 IC&#039;s which act as drivers/buffers helping to protect the PIA from damage if the switch matrix is shorted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
;Two 7406 (Hex Inverter / Buffer with open collector HV outputs) is used to &#039;drive&#039; the Columns.  &lt;br /&gt;
:A 7406 or 74LS06 will work and are common parts.&lt;br /&gt;
;Two 4049 (or 14049 &amp;quot;CMOS Hex Inverter / Buffer) is used to &#039;read&#039; the Rows. &lt;br /&gt;
:The MC14049 or CD4049UBCN are common examples, although any 14049 or 4049 14-leg DIP will work.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;(Hex in this context refers to six inverters contained in the one IC package.  It&#039;s nothing to do with the computer (or math) Hex meaning of &#039;base 16&#039;.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU writes to the output port of the PIA driving column 1, then the return input port is saved, holding the status of all 8 rows in one byte. The program then &#039;looks&#039; at each of the rows 1-8 in quick succession.  It checks to see if the signal is getting through on the row that&#039;s currently being read.  Think of it as an 8 bit answer for that column showing which switches in that column are closed.  Say 00010001 returned would mean switches at C1,R4 and C1,R8 are closed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So for every &#039;drive&#039; down a column, the machine does 8 &#039;reads&#039; of the rows. Then the CPU moves on and drives column 2, looking again at each of the rows 1-8.  It continues through all of the remaining columns in this way.  This is done very rapidly by the CPU, strobing the whole matrix looping over and over many times a second.  Because it&#039;s so fast, even multiple switch closures are rarely missed, in fact as mentioned above it has to debounce the results to obtain an accurate result.  Williams&#039; operating system software on machines from at least system 6 up through system 11 have differing debounce values depending on the type of switch, allowing greater sensitivity on certain types of switches, and desensitizing others (such as lock or trough switches).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The diodes on every switch help to steer the drives only to the row that&#039;s being read and not back into other parts of the matrix.  That&#039;s why good diodes on switches are so important, as they must only allow current to flow in one direction: &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;from&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; column &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;to&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; row.  Essentially that&#039;s how the switch matrix reads switch closures. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This [https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_switch_matrix.html article] by Aeneas describing a later game&#039;s switch matrix may be useful as a different explanation with a diagram. Transistors can be used on the drives (as with modern games like DE or Stern ), different buffer chips can be used, but the basic switch matrix design hasn&#039;t changed over the years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally a warning about protecting the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;nothing&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; will protect the switch matrix IC&#039;s and PIA if (for example) the +50v solenoid voltage is shorted into the matrix. This happens if the &#039;lane change&#039; switch is attached in a stack on the flipper mech and shorted to the EOS switch.  In later designs the &#039;lane change&#039; was moved to be stacked with the flipper buttons (nearly as bad) or to a separate button which was a better design.  Be very careful if working under the playfield &#039;&#039;&#039;not to short the solenoid or lamp power into a switch&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It can be a lot of work to repair the damage done to the driver board, so be careful with you screwdriver and loose solenoid power wiring.  Most people who have been repairing games long enough learned the hard way, and won&#039;t work under the playfield with the power on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Switches===&lt;br /&gt;
There are a few switches that are dedicated, and not part of the switch matrix.  The coin door Advance and Auto/Up Manual/Down switches, which let you start diagnostic tests when the switch matrix is faulty.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, there are a maximum of 6 special solenoid switches, which directly connect to the solenoid logic on the driver board. When Williams first designed these games, they were worried that the CPU couldn&#039;t always &#039;keep up&#039; with the ball hits to the pop bumpers or slingshots.  So during game play the switches on the playfield fire the special solenoids directly from the playfield.  These usually include the spoon switches on the pop bumpers and slingshot stand-up switches.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All pop bumpers and slingshots have a secondary switch which is part of the switch matrix.  It closes when the coil is fired and tells the CPU to increment scoring and in some cases to trigger sounds for these devices.  The scoring switch is mechanically closed, by the &#039;elbow&#039; of the slingshot arm or by the bakelite yoke connected to the pop bumper ring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Confusingly, the CPU can also fire the 6 special switches from PIA lines for the diagnostic tests, but these PIA signals are never used during game play.  If all these solenoids work during diagnostic tests, but not in game play it points to the switch inputs or the 7408s at IC6/7.  It won&#039;t be the 7402s at IC8/9.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I have seen a game that worked in play perfectly, but the diagnostics could not fire two of the pop bumper solenoids during tests.  This was a Switch Matrix PIA with faulty output at pins 19 (CB2) and 39 (CA2), other than that the PIA was working correctly and so it could still be used to drive the Switch Matrix.  If a switch row or column went out, the PIA would then have to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;&#039;Here is a list of the PIAs and where the pins are that fire the &#039;special solenoids&#039; during diagnostics:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot; |Special Solenoid Diag. PIAs&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!ST# &lt;br /&gt;
!PIA&lt;br /&gt;
!CHIP&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin #&lt;br /&gt;
!Location / Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1   ||III ||IC10  Lamps     ||19    ||Middle PIA   on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2   ||III ||IC10  Lamps     ||39    ||Middle PIA   on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3   ||II  ||IC11  SW Matrix ||19    ||Right PIA  on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4   ||II  ||IC11  SW Matrix ||39    ||Right PIA  on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5   ||IV  ||IC 5  Solenoids ||39    ||Left PIA on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6   ||I   ||IC18  Displays  ||19    ||Via 1J1-26 on CPU Board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing the Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
To test the switch matrix in the game, first remove both Switch Matrix connectors on the top right of the driver board. J2 is Column (green wires) and J3 is Row (white wires).  Then run a switch test from diagnostics, you should get no switches being sensed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use an alligator test lead as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
* Connect one end of the test lead&#039;s alligator clip to the column pin, starting at column 1.  That&#039;s the bottom pin of J2. &lt;br /&gt;
* Then use the other end of the test lead to touch the appropriate row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
* Start at the bottom pin of J3, which is row 1.  You should see switch #1 indicated (R1C1).&lt;br /&gt;
* Move the probe to the next pin up on J3, which is row #2.  You should see switch #2 indicated (R2C1).&lt;br /&gt;
* When you got to the top of the row pins, move the clip end to COL #2 (up one pin) and start again with row #1.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Activate each switch in turn by connecting the appropriate 2 male pins on the CPU board with your test lead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using your switch matrix chart from the manual as a guide, you may find the faults as your game &amp;quot;sees&amp;quot; on the same switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you get an error in sequence, more than one switch registers at a time or you are missing a row or column - then you &#039;&#039;&#039;know the problem must be on the MPU board&#039;&#039;&#039;.  You can either try to fix it or send the board out for repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the above test works correctly, meaning all switches register correctly then your problem must be the wiring or on the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing the Switch Matrix PIA===&lt;br /&gt;
No section on the switch matrix is complete without mentioning the switch PIA.  That IC and 4 buffer IC&#039;s are the only logic in the switch matrix.  The complete instructions for testing all the PIAs are beyond the scope of this section. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only sure-fire way to test the PIA is with the &#039;Leon Borre test ROM&#039; in the MPU board.  You do this by taking the MPU and Driver boards out of the game and putting them on the bench.  This will also let you trace back through the circuit to find a fault more easily, and it&#039;s not as hard as you may think.  It will also exercise the CPU memory and test all the PIAs on the Driver Board, not just the switch matrix PIA.  Here are his excellent instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Leon_Borre_Repairing_Williams_System_3-6_CPU_Boards | Leon&#039;s Repair Pages for WMS System 3-6 games]] including a free test ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Leon_Borre_WMS_System_7_Repair | Leon&#039;s Repair Pages for WMS System 7 games]] including a free test ROM.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These Belgium guys are knowledgeable about pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Should any of the chips in the switch matrix prove to be faulty, be particularly cautious in replacing them. They have a greater than usual tendency for lifted traces and pads when desoldering. Heat rising from the lamp matrix resistors has a tendency to not only cause these chips to fail, but also to loosen the bond between the circuit board and the solder pads and traces on this area of the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix Components===&lt;br /&gt;
Final thoughts about components which make up the switch matrix. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The passive components:&lt;br /&gt;
On the driver board there is an RC network, made up of 16 x 4.7K pull-up resistors that you can measure with a DMM. Tolerance is not critical, but should measure between 4.5K to 5K which is about a +/- 5% range.&lt;br /&gt;
There are also 16 x capacitors (470pF at 50v, ceramic) these should not measure as a short, if in doubt just replace them.&lt;br /&gt;
And 8 x 1K ohm resistors at the switch inputs (rows) at R196-R203 these can not be open or shorted and must be around 1K each.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can see the above chips inverting signals with the game running and a logic probe.  Check if signals look weak or suspect. If you see a signal on the input side and then nothing inverted on the output side, then that&#039;s your problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |Beyond that IC15-18, which are the Switch Matrix inverting buffer / drivers:&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Inverting Pairs. Leg a to b listed as a,b&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch Row/Col Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Part Number /Eqivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC15 ||3,2 7,6 14,15 9,10 in that order ||Rows 1-4 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC16 ||3,2 7,6 14,15 9,10 in that order ||Rows 5-8 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC17 ||2,1 6,5 12,13 8,9  in that order ||Columns 1-4 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC18 ||2,1 6,5 12,13 8,9  in that order ||Columns 5-8 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot; |J2 (Column) and J3 (Row) connector pins: &lt;br /&gt;
:&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Connector&lt;br /&gt;
!Male connector Pins&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch Row/Col Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Location&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Part Number /Eqivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J2 ||pins 1-3 and pin 5 ||Columns 5-8 ||IC18 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J2 ||pins 9-6 ||Columns 1-4 ||IC17 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J3 ||pin 1 and pins 3-5 ||Rows 5-8 ||IC16 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J3 ||pins 9-6 ||Rows 1-4 ||IC15 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Except for the 6821 PIA which is getting harder to find, all the switch matrix components are readily available.&lt;br /&gt;
However there are acceptable substitutes on the market.  Any of the following part numbers are drop-in replacements for the 6821.&lt;br /&gt;
68A21, 68B21, 6521, W65C21N.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Wire Jumpers on System 7 Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ZeroOhmJumpersS3-7.jpg ‎|300px|left|thumb|A Williams System 3-7 Driver Board, retrofitted with wire jumpers at R04-R211]]&lt;br /&gt;
Williams removed some resistors from the switch matrix inputs and used wire jumpers instead. This happened from the start of System 7.  The first thing to do with a driver board (which may not be from that game) is to measure these resistors and make sure you have the the driver board set up for the correct game.  &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;While a board with wire jumpers can be used in System 4-6 games, using a board with resistors in a System 7 game will cause problems.&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;  Replacing the 330 ohm resistors with wire jumpers helps with switch sensitivity and with sensing more than one switch closure at the same time.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On driver boards from Black Knight and later System 7 games, there should be 8 wire jumpers (or zero ohm resistors) used on the switch matrix at positions W9-W16. These are located on the upper right hand corner of the Driver Board just to the left of J2, the top right connector which is the switch matrix column drive. To the left are two columns of 7 resistors each, the second column should be the wire jumpers, along with the top position of the next column to the left (column with 2 resistors only).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 4-6 Driver boards, (games like Alien Poker, Firepower and earlier SS games) were released with 330 ohm resistors (orange, orange, brown) in these 8 locations. Starting with Black Knight and later (System 7 games) they are called R204-R211, and are zero ohm resistors (usually a tan body with one black stripe). You can replace or jumper over them with wire leaving the resistors in place. In all other aspects the driver boards are identical, so it&#039;s easy to convert between the two. This is why they are usually known as &#039;&#039;System 3-7 driver boards&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before you start to replace parts on the driver board, be sure your playfield switches are working and the diodes are good. You need to unsolder one end of the diode from the switch to be able to test it correctly with a DMM on the diode setting.  While you are there, clean the switch with a business card soaked in naptha or contact cleaner sprayed on the business card (with the game off, contact cleaner is flammable!) See if any blackness comes off on the card.  You can also gently wipe the contacts until shiny with a Q-tip or the corner of a clean rag dipped in isopropyl alcohol.  A pencil eraser also works well to clean switch contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Game Specific Problems and Fixes=&lt;br /&gt;
==Black Knight==&lt;br /&gt;
===Magna Save Performance===&lt;br /&gt;
There are 2 under playfield relays used to shunt high voltage to the magna saves. These are high voltage contacts and should be filed for maximum conductivity and power for the magnets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Magna Save Magnets Not Working===&lt;br /&gt;
If the magnets are not working in test or game, make certain that the white-red wire is tied to the ground screw in the backbox.  This white-red wire is fed from the relay coils, which enables each appropriate magnets.&lt;br /&gt;
===Fast moving ball flies through upper lock===&lt;br /&gt;
Mount a shooter lane bracket underneath the plastic of the upper ball lock trough.  With creative bending, all ball motion will stop on entering the trough.  The ball will drop down ensuring credit is awarded for the lock.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Ball Lock Scoring Bug===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a software bug in version L-3 and L-4 where instead of getting 5000 points with other balls in the lock you get 10,000, scored in increments of 5000.  There is no current fix for this; it may have been intentional for the additional score (usually picked up by another player) but probably an oversight by the original programmer.  There is a footnote in the operator&#039;s manual referencing this.  It is unknown what the original intention was.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Right Ramp Gate Adjustment===&lt;br /&gt;
It is erroneous to have the mystery rollunder gate score in one direction only; the switch should activate both going UP to the upper playfield as well as DOWN to the lower playfield.  It can be a strategy in multiball to let it roll down the switch, multiplying the mystery value.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Firepower==&lt;br /&gt;
===Firepower Won&#039;t Start a Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Firepower and other multi-ball games are infamous for being stubborn if there aren&#039;t three balls in the trough, or if one of the trough switches isn&#039;t closed.  Additionally, multiball games usually have a shooter lane switch.  If MORE than 3 switches are closed, the game will also not start.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My Firepower, in particular, is frequently upset if the right-most switch isn&#039;t closed, and that switch has an unusual actuator on it that doesn&#039;t work as well as a common rollover actuator. That switch is a little mangled, so it&#039;s the one that is most problematic. [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 18:12, 21 May 2014 (CDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Time Warp==&lt;br /&gt;
===Time Warp loses background sound occasionally===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a software bug in Time Warp where the background sound (if enabled) will go mute at ball launch.  This happens whenever the ball kicker launches twice, or when a ball drains without scoring any points.  There is a fix for this identified as Time Warp L-3 however it is not officially sanctioned by Williams and so is not readily available.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements=&lt;br /&gt;
==Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
* Displays&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://xpinpinball.com/product-category/xpin-displays/ XPin]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=dis326 Rottendog 6-Digit]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=dis079 Rottendog 7-Digit]&lt;br /&gt;
* MPU&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 Rottendog] (no longer supports System 7 games)&lt;br /&gt;
* Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=wdp3211a Rottendog]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms8345/ XPin]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NOTE: [http://pinballpcb.com/ Kohout Enterprises] has begun manufacturing circuit boards again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Repair Logs=&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Unreliable +5V==&lt;br /&gt;
A Firepower won&#039;t boot consistently.  It was reliable before it was moved in a box truck.  +5V supply measures low.  For some reason, I decided the problem had to be the diodes in the power supply and replaced them, which didn&#039;t help.  I replaced the +5V cap in the power supply, C16, and all was well.  (Thirty year old filter caps are all absolutely suspect.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once I had the cap loose, I discovered I could shake it and hear it rattling inside.  Presumably, the jelly roll of electrolytic was dried out.  Shaking it might have the internal components in the right place, but probably not.  A few miles in the back of the truck was enough to wreck it, more permanently before.  The game has been very well-behaved since replacing the cap with a new one. [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 18:12, 21 May 2014 (CDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Unreliable +5V, part 2==&lt;br /&gt;
All classic pinball boards rely on 5V logic. Most data sheets indicate 5V, +/- 0.25V. Always check the 5V on the power supply, AND on the MPU board. Note that there may be 5.2V on the power supply, but 4.8V on the MPU. This is too low.. small pulses can pull the 4.8 below 4.75 fairly easily and cause resets. If there is less than 5V on the MPU board, but the voltage is right on the supply, try checking voltage drops at each individual connector pin. One will usually find that pins will have built up tarnish, or heat has turned them grey or brown.. this is the tip off that the connector needs to be replaced. I know, groan.. it can be a pain, but replace the header in the circuit board. Make sure to remove or clip the key pin. Then replace the connector on the wires (female) with crimp and poke type. Use a ratchet crimper, and tug on them after each crimp to prove that they are good. Replace the wires one by one.. clip, crimp, poke.. copy each wire position from the original one one at a time, and keep in mind that the connectors have a ramp and go on one way. Replace and power up, and then go back to the meter, and verify that the voltage on the MPU board has risen..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CPU will not start==&lt;br /&gt;
This happens to involve a Type 2 sound board, but it could apply to an MPU board or a Type 1 sound board.  The reset pin voltage (CPU Pin 40) was low and would slowly climb after power on, but not enough to allow the CPU to start.  All components in the reset section were good, and replacement parts did not make any difference.  The problem was the sound board&#039;s PIA.  Its reset line was pulling down the voltage so much that the CPU would not start.  After replacing the PIA, the sound board booted and worked fine.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7&amp;diff=23763</id>
		<title>Williams System 3 - 7</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7&amp;diff=23763"/>
		<updated>2023-06-14T17:25:55Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Switch Matrix Components */  correction&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Introduction=&lt;br /&gt;
Williams entered the [http://www.pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Glossary#Solid_State_.28SS.29 SS] or Solid State era with a conversion of a 1976 Williams [http://www.pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Glossary#Electro_Mechanical_.28EM.29 EM] or Electro Mechanical pinball game called [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4828 Grand Prix].  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 1&#039;&#039;&#039; is considered to be the Solid State version of &#039;&#039;Grand Prix&#039;&#039;.  It is thought that about 5 Grand Prix EM games were converted to SS prototypes using the new System 1 MPU Board and digital displays.  The computer was only used for accumulating and displaying the player scores.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB links: [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=5647 Grand Prix SS version]&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1072 Grand Prix EM version ]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 2&#039;&#039;&#039; was next, with a 10 unit run of another 1976 EM game called &#039;&#039;Aztec&#039;&#039;.  A working SS version is very rare.  Both System 1 &amp;amp; 2 occurred quickly after each other at the end of 1976.  Aztec SS was still a hybrid machine retaining the EM chime unit in the cabinet and a credit window with an EM numbered reel behind the backglass). Player scoring was still the only digital function at that time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB links: [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4828 Aztec SS version]&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=119 Aztec EM version ] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 3&#039;&#039;&#039; games were the first Williams SS production games, starting with &#039;&#039;[[Hot Tip]]&#039;&#039; in Nov. &#039;77 and ending with &#039;&#039;[[Disco Fever]]&#039;&#039; in Aug &#039;78.  There were based on the Motorola 6800 8-bit CPU and using a Motorola 6820 PIA (Peripheral Interface Adapter) to handle the Display I/O from the MPU board.  They also had three other 6820 PIAs on the Driver Board reading targets and other switches as inputs and controlling the insert Lamps and solenoids as outputs. Solenoid drives were mainly used for ball handling by firing coils, with a few triggering sound calls or a &#039;start of game&#039; tune.  This was the start of Williams using computers for game rules and settings.  At this point they designed an 8x8 Switch Matrix, an 8x8 Lamp Matrix and solenoids driven by Darlington transistors. This design remained virtually unchanged to the end of Williams System 7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During System 3 (&#039;&#039;[[Phoenix]]&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;[[Disco Fever]]&#039;&#039;) a memory protect circuit modification was added as to help protect CMOS RAM data during power up and power down of the game.  DIP switches were used to program game settings (such as # of balls per game, high score replays).&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 4&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Pokerino]]&#039;&#039; in Nov &#039;78 through to  &#039;&#039;[[Stellar Wars]]&#039;&#039; in Mar &#039;79, according to IPDB.com.  A notable game which outsold all of the other System 4 games combined with a production run of 19,505 was &#039;&#039;[[Flash]]&#039;&#039; (Steve Ritchie&#039;s first designed game for Williams).  During System 4, Williams  moved from using DIP switches to change game settings to having the game settings changed from the coin door switches.  The settings were still stored in battery protected CMOS RAM.  [ed Note: Citation needed]  A coin door interlock switch enforced that CMOS memory could not be modified unless the coin door had been opened by the operator.  Some of the game audits (coins accepted, total number of games played, etc.) still could not be changed without access to the MPU board behind the backglass.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Tri Zone]]&#039;&#039; in Jul &#039;79 to &#039;&#039;[[Scorpion]]&#039;&#039; in Jul &#039;80.  Two notable games from this era were from the end of &#039;79 and the beginning of &#039;80 &#039;&#039;[[Gorgar]]&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;[[Firepower]]&#039;&#039;.  Gorgar (14,000 produced) was the first talking pinball, and Firepower (17,410 produced) both talked and introduced the &#039;Lane Change&#039; and &#039;Multiball (tm)&#039; features to SS games.  Note that there had been Multiball play available in EM games, it just wasn&#039;t called Multiball (tm) until Firepower. and this is a common misunderstanding.  The features these games introduced became standards for almost all pinball games produced right up until today.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6a&#039;&#039;&#039; deserves to be mentioned here as it marked a transition to System 7.  The game &#039;&#039;[[Alien Poker]]&#039;&#039; from Oct &#039;80 used the Syatem 6a MPU board (which was not very different from System 6).  But it supported 7 digit scoring displays and a redesigned Master Display Driver board, located behind the backglass on the back of the &#039;Lamp Board&#039;.  It also used a special 4 digit &amp;quot;credit/match&amp;quot; display in the approximate position where the System 6 Master Display Driver had been showing the same information (on a 6 digit display, with 2 of the digits unused).  This new 7 digit scoring displays with a 4 digit credit/match display were then used in all the System 7 games (and System 9).&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 7&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Black Knight]]&#039;&#039; in Nov &#039;80 through to &#039;&#039;[[Star Light]]&#039;&#039; in Jun &#039;84.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB link: [http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?mpu=4&amp;amp;qh=checked&amp;amp;ng=checked&amp;amp;sortby=date&amp;amp;searchtype=advanced Complete System 7 Game list] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Black Knight&#039;&#039; (13,075 produced) introduced a two level playing field and Magna-Save (tm) where the ball could be stopped from draining down the sides by pressing a cabinet button that activated an electromagnet.  &#039;&#039;Star Light&#039;&#039; (100 produced) was a &#039;boutique&#039; game by Williams&#039; production standards as the focus was on ramping up production for the first System 9 game Space Shuttle (7,000 units).  At least one Star Light game was made as the Prototype for System 9.   &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Further discussion of changes and good pictures of the backbox boards for System 3-7 games can be found here:&lt;br /&gt;
[http://tuukan.fliput.net/wms_en.html Tukkan.fliput.net]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Games=&lt;br /&gt;
==System 3==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hot Tip]]|| 11-1977 || 477 || Chimes ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Lucky Seven]]|| 03-1978 || 480 || Chimes ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[World Cup]]|| 05-1978 || 481 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Contact]]|| 05-1978 || 482 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Disco Fever]]|| 08-1978 || 483 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Used banana flippers&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 4==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards	&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Pokerino]]|| 10-1978 || 488 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-	&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Phoenix]]|| 11-1978 || 485 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Flash]]|| 01-1979 || 486 || Type 1 Sound || ||First game with continuous Background sound/Later games produced on System 6 platform&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Stellar Wars]]|| 03-1979 || 490 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody/Later games produced on System 6 platform&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 6==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Tri Zone]]|| 07-1979 || 487 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Time Warp]]|| 09-1979 || 489 || Type 1 Sound ||  || Used banana flippers for most of run.&lt;br /&gt;
|-	&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Gorgar]]|| 12-1979 || 496 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||First game with speech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Laser Ball]]|| 12-1979 || 493 || Type 1 Sound ||  || Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Firepower]]|| 02-1980 || 497 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  ||First SS Multiball (3 balls). First lane change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Blackout]]|| 06-1980 || 495 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  || First Williams game where a relay was used to turn general illumination on / off for effect.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Scorpion]]|| 07-1980 || 494 || Type 1 Sound || ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 6A==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Algar]]|| 09-1980 || 499 || Type 1 Sound || 7 digit display board||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Alien Poker]]|| 10-1980 || 501 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || 7 digit display board||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 7==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight]]|| 11-1980 || 500 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||First game with magnasave&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Jungle Lord]]|| 02-1981 || 503 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Pharaoh]]|| 05-1981 || 504 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Solar Fire]]|| 07-1981 || 507 || Type 2 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Barracora]]|| 09-1981 || 510 || Type 2 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hyperball]]|| 12-1981 || 509 || Type 2 Sound  ||Uses different driver board than pinball games ||Not a pinball - a flipperless game firing tiny pinballs&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Cosmic Gunfight]]|| 06-1982 || 502 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Varkon]]|| 09-1982 || 512 || Type 2 Sound || || Pinball in stand-up Video cabinet&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Warlok]]|| 10-1982 || 516 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Defender]]|| 12-1982 || 517 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Time Fantasy]]|| 03-1983 || 515 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Joust]]|| 04-1983 || 519 || Type 2 Sound || ||Two player head-to-head pinball&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Firepower II]]|| 08-1983 || 521 || Type 2 Sound || Uses 50v Flipper Power Supply Board ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Laser Cue]]|| 02-1984 || 520 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Star Light]]|| 06-1984 || 530 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Documentation=&lt;br /&gt;
==Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics==&lt;br /&gt;
Most manuals and ROM files can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:01-backbox-sys6.pdf|System 6 Backbox Wiring Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Catalogs==&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|1980 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/ltjq/#p=1 Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Tip, Lucky Seven, World Cup, Contact, Disco Fever, Phoenix, Flash, Tri-Zone, Pokerino, Time Warp, Stellar Wars, Laser Ball, Scorpion, Blackout, Gorgar, Firepower, Algar, Black Knight, Alien Poker, Cosmic Gunfight, Jungle Lord, Pharoah, Solar Fire, Hyperball, Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
|This catalog covers all system 3-6 games, and the first third of the system 7 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Service Bulletins==&lt;br /&gt;
Most service bulletins can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Instruction Cards==&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ Instruction Cards &amp;amp; Labels]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Fuses==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;text-align: center;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Williams System 3 - 7 Power Supply Fuse Ratings&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!System &lt;br /&gt;
!F1&lt;br /&gt;
!F2&lt;br /&gt;
!F3&lt;br /&gt;
!F4*&lt;br /&gt;
!F5&lt;br /&gt;
!F6&lt;br /&gt;
!F7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 15amp FB || 4amp SB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 4amp FB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 4amp FB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 7amp SB || 7amp SB || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The value of F4 does vary. Check the game manual for the correct rating. It&#039;s usually 10A for games with 2 flippers. Later System 7 games with a separate flipper power supply do not use F4.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==ROM Files==&lt;br /&gt;
Most manuals and ROM files can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/roms.html ROM Files]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The ROMs hosted on Planetary Pinball for World Cup has an issue. World Cup requires a [[#White_Flipper_ROM_Exceptions|special white flipper ROM specific to World Cup]], which [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2810 can be found on IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Combining System 3-6 Original ROMs Into a Single ROM at IC14===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6ROMConfig.jpg | thumb | left| 300px| A System 6 TriZone MPU, featuring combined ROM images at U14.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For all System 3-6 games, the ROMs that might be located at U26, U22, and U21 (left to right on the top ROM row) can be replaced with a single 2716 2kb ROM (or EPROM) at IC14 that contains the combined images. When doing so, jumper J3 should be IN, jumper J4 OUT. These jumpers are located just above the ROMs and to the right of IC15.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Diagnostic ROMs by Pincoder===&lt;br /&gt;
Free Diagnostic ROM images for Williams System 3-7 games can be found here: &lt;br /&gt;
* [https://pincoder.ca/ Pincoder Website]&lt;br /&gt;
They require the use of EPROM chips and a chip programmer. However, you can choose to skip sourcing EPROMs and the chip programmer by using the available [https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/ Pincoder Adapter] right out of the box. Simply plug it into the MPU board, select a test, and power on the game. Full documentation can be downloaded from the Pincoder website. The ROM images and the adapter are actively supported.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper ROMs===&lt;br /&gt;
The OS (Operating System) for a Williams pinball game is called the Flipper ROM.  Flipper ROMs with the same color label can be considered generic, although there is at least one exception where a &#039;custom&#039; White Flipper ROM was used &amp;quot;World Cup&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Game ROM can be considered the &#039;personality&#039; ROM, it provides the rules and objectives that are specific to that game&#039;s playfield layout.  It also maps the Lamps, Solenoid and Switch Matrix to their specific purpose for that game and controls how they are sequenced and timed.  Examples would be the &#039;attract mode&#039; lamp sequence or when sound / speech select calls are made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Because of large game production runs, Williams bought batches of Masked ROMs (fixed and not erasable) for the games.  This was cheaper at the time than using Eproms (UV erasable, with a small window) as Eproms were still fairly expensive in the 80&#039;s.  They used the same method for producing most of their Flipper, Game and Sound ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is sometimes a good idea to replace old masked ROMs with EPROMs, since the original masked ROMs are 30+ years old and as the legs blacken and tarnish, they will weaken and fall off. For a similar reason, many of the ROM sockets on the MPU boards will need to be replaced, especially any sockets bearing the words &#039;Scanbe&#039;, which are poor quality. Masked ROMs are very stable as they start life as all 1&#039;s and then the information is programmed by &amp;quot;burning&amp;quot; each selected bit open, like blowing a tiny fuse. This process is not reversible, and ROMs will rarely lose their programming over time, unless the remaining whisker-like &amp;quot;fuses&amp;quot; start to fail. The practice and term to &amp;quot;burn&amp;quot; ROMs carried over to other storage media, such as CDs and EPROMs, even though different technologies and processes were used to store the data. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper ROM Colors====&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used standard ROM files for System 3-7.  These two Flipper ROMs are located at IC17 and IC20.  Systems 3-6 use two 2716 or 2316 Eproms, while system 7 used a 2716 in IC20 and a 2532 in IC17 (a 2732 can be used at position IC17 after modifications are made to the board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROMs=====&lt;br /&gt;
White flipper ROMs were used in all System 3 games and two System 4 games...&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Tip&lt;br /&gt;
*Lucky 7&lt;br /&gt;
*World Cup&lt;br /&gt;
*Contact&lt;br /&gt;
*Disco Fever&lt;br /&gt;
*Pokerino (system 4)&lt;br /&gt;
*Phoenix (system 4)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
World Cup uses White Flipper ROMs, but the ROM in IC17 is unique. The MPU will not boot and run with the standard White flipper ROM. However, the World Cup White flipper ROM can be used in all other White Flipper ROM games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROM Issues=====&lt;br /&gt;
When downloading ROM software for World Cup, be aware the code available directly from Planetary Pinball has known faults and will not work properly. Code available from IPDB generally is correct and functional. The issues with these games is as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
World Cup:  Provided with the standard IC17 Flipper Rom, not the unique one required for World Cup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lucky 7:    When the original 512 byte files were combined into a 2k file for IC14 Game Rom, blank areas were entered incorrectly. &lt;br /&gt;
This causes the machine to register a failed checksum test when attempting to enter settings via the dip switches. (Note: The copy on Planetary Pinball appears to have been corrected).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hot Tip:    When the original 512 byte files were combined into a 2k file for IC14, they were done out of order. (Note: The copy on Planetary Pinball appears to have been corrected).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Yellow Flipper ROMs==== &lt;br /&gt;
The yellow flipper ROMs were used in 2 games...&lt;br /&gt;
*Stellar Wars&lt;br /&gt;
*Flash (later production of Flash used Green flipper ROMs, which are preferred. The game ROM version must match the flipper ROM color)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Green Flipper ROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The green flipper ROMs were used in System 6 and 6A games from Tri Zone (Jul &#039;79) to Alien Poker (Oct &#039;80)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Tri Zone&lt;br /&gt;
*Time Warp&lt;br /&gt;
*Gorgar&lt;br /&gt;
*Laser Ball&lt;br /&gt;
*FirePower&lt;br /&gt;
*Blackout&lt;br /&gt;
*Scorpion&lt;br /&gt;
*Algar&lt;br /&gt;
*Alien Poker&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Green Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ted Estes developed a &amp;quot;divide by 10&amp;quot; ROM that allows /10 scoring for all 6 digit Green flipper ROM games with the exception of Algar and Alien Poker. These 2 games utilize an extension to the operating system ROM contained wholly in the game ROM which is incompatible with the Ted Estes hack (when enabled - with the hack disabled, the game works fine). Installing the hacked ROMs in these games isn&#039;t recommended since there may be other side effects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Alien Poker and Algar operating system extensions shift internal scoring before and after the normal routines. i.e. Internally, Alien Poker and Algar are 6 digit games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blue Flipper ROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
The blue fipper ROMs were used in all System 7 games, Black Knight (Dec &#039;80) and later...&lt;br /&gt;
*Black Knight&lt;br /&gt;
*Jungle Lord&lt;br /&gt;
*Pharoah&lt;br /&gt;
*Black Knight Limited Addition&lt;br /&gt;
*Solar Fire&lt;br /&gt;
*Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
*Hyperball&lt;br /&gt;
*Thunderball&lt;br /&gt;
*Cosmic Gunfight&lt;br /&gt;
*Varkon&lt;br /&gt;
*Warlock&lt;br /&gt;
*Defender&lt;br /&gt;
*Rat Race&lt;br /&gt;
*Time Fantasy&lt;br /&gt;
*Joust&lt;br /&gt;
*FirePower II&lt;br /&gt;
*Laser Cue&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Blue Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
Star Light (June &#039;84, 100 produced) which was the last System 7 game, appears to have non-standard Blue Flipper ROMs. For small production runs, games were supplied from the factory with EPROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Circuit Board Schematics and Assembly Drawings==&lt;br /&gt;
===Connectors===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media: Molex-Connectors-Firepower-1.1.pdf|System 3-7 Molex Connectors]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:08-masterdisplayboard-sys3-6.pdf|Display Diver Board Assembly Drawing]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:09-masterdisplaylogic-sys3-6.pdf|Display Driver Board Logic Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-7DriverBoardLayout.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-7 driver board layout]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:05-driverlogic-sys3-6.pdf|System 3-7 Driver Board Logic Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:04-driverboard-sys3-6.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Assembly Drawing]] (Note: The Tables for Solenoids, Switch Matrix and Lamp Matrix are examples for Firepower.  However the wiring colors and locations do not change from game to game. System 7 does not use Driver Solenoids to trigger sounds, and that is covered in the Sound Board section.)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_layout.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_schematics_1of2.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Schematics (1 of 2)]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_schematics_2of2.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Schematics (2 of 2)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem3MPURevisionA.jpg ‎|left|thumb|300px|System 3 MPU IC Locator]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 MPU IC Identification Map.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 MPU adds only IC26 on the left side of the board, just above IC22 where the odd looking solder pads are.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-mpu-layout.jpg|System 3 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-mpu-schematic.jpg|System 3 MPU Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Williams_System-4_MPU_Layout.jpg|System 4 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Williams_System-4_MPU_Schematic.jpg|System 4 MPU Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:03-cpulogic-sys6.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Logic Diagram]] (Note: Because IC9 and IC10 can be bypassed directly, this diagram is accurate for System 6a)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:02-cpuboard-sys6.pdf |System 6 MPU Board Assembly Drawing]] (Note: Because IC9 and IC10 can be bypassed directly, this diagram is accurate for System 6a)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_layout.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_schematics.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_bom.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Bill of Materials]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys7_mpu_schematics.pdf|System 7 MPU Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-6_power_supply_early_layout.jpg|Early System 3-6 Power Supply Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-6_power_supply_early_schematics.jpg|Early System 3-6 Power Supply Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:Wms-sys3-6-powersupply-assembly.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Assembly Drawing]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_power-supply_layout.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_power-supply_schematics.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During the long run of System 3 through 7 games, Williams used two basic board types, designated Type 1 and Type 2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 1 Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:WMS_Sys3-6_Type_1_Sound Board.pdf|System 3-4 Type 1 Sound Board Assembly Drawing and Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 2 Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The [[Media:Wms-sys6-7-soundspeech-assembly.pdf|System 6-7 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Boards Assembly Drawing]], crafted by Phil Butcher is a great debugging resource.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.firepowerpinball.com/ Documentation for Firepower]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Errors==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
* Note that the parts bill of materials for some (perhaps all) system 7 games call out a 2N6087 power transistor for Q5. This is most likely a typo. A 2N6057 or 2N6059 should be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Technical Info=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Proprietary Numbers on Chips==&lt;br /&gt;
Some Bally IC chips are marked with proprietary Williams part numbers, and no other markings are present.  Below is a list of some of the most common chips found on Williams boards, and the more commonly referred to chip.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-8987 - 6800 CPU chip, Motorola part #SC44216P.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-9150 - 6808 CPU chip&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-8972 - 6820/21 PIA chip, Motorola part #SC44067P.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-9903 - 6810 RAM chip&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Backbox Overview==&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams backbox is similar for most of the games in the System 3-7 games. System 3-6 remained fairly similar in their backbox layouts. System 7 introduced a number of changes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* During the beginning of System 7 the transformer moved from the backbox to the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
* The System 7 PSU was redesigned and changed to incorporate a G.I. relay,&lt;br /&gt;
* An upgraded System 7 MPU Board was used, which featured a built-in numeric diagnostic display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first two System 3 games ([[Hot Tip]] &amp;amp; [[Lucky Seven]]) used chimes and had no sound boards in the cabinet backbox. In the remaining System 3 games and all System 4 games, the sound board was located in the body cabinet, rather than the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sample games of the first System 6 game, [[Tri Zone]] had the sound board located in the lower cabinet, but it was moved into the backbox for production games and all other System 6 &amp;amp; 6A games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the System 6A game [[Alien Poker]] and all System 7 games, an add-on board sppech board was introduced, which contained additional ROMs for speech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==MPU Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3 MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 3 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 was a major step by Williams to digital pinball games.  It ushered in the Solid State machines, but to begin with there were problems with acceptance of the new machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams had the Driver board firing the solenoids on Chime units on the first two System 3 games, and even had a device called a &#039;noisemaker&#039; (an EM score reel mounted in the body of the game) to provide the sounds of the score reels clicking over!  This gave the player the familiar sounds of EM machines which were still around,  The player&#039;s scoring, their credits remaining and the ball-in-play were all digital and being displayed on the seven-segment gas plasma displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Even once they dropped the chimes and &#039;noisemaker&#039; (for [[World Cup]] in May 1978) and added a digital sound board, the operator could still select the more familiar  &#039;bings &amp;amp; bongs&#039;.  A switch was provided on the sound board which allowed selection of simple digital chimes.  This option persisted right through on System 3 to System 7 sound boards, but for the most part was not used.  Digital sound became more popular as time went on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The design of System 3 was based on the Motorola 6800 CPU and what has become a standard arcade peripheral I/O device, the 6821 PIA (originally the 6820).  The PIA (or Peripheral Interface Adapter) on the MPU boards was used to drive the display I/O.  All other peripherals, switches, lamps, solenoids, and sound, are driven by the 3 PIAs on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 and 4 boards use a Motorola 6800 microprocessor with a 6875 clock generator chip, while System 6 and 7 boards use either a 6802 or 6808 microprocessor.  You cannot use a 6802 or 6808 in a System 3 or 4 board!  The chips are not backwards compatible.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Upgrading a System 3 board to System 4====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3ToSystem4ConversionOverview.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Overview of a board converted from System 3 to System 4]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A system 3 MPU can be upgraded to use a single 2716 EPROM at what will be IC14 (System 3 schematics do not give this IC position a designation number). This essentially converts the board to a System 4 board. This upgrade is useful to reduce the number of sockets (and failure points). Install a 24 pin socket at the unpopulated area, just to the right of the IC17 socket. Combine the original game ROM code into a single 2716, and install it into the socket of what is now being called IC14. The flipper ROMs are installed in the same locations, ROM 1 into IC20, ROM 2 into IC17.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CutJumperWMSSystem3ToSystem4.jpg|thumb|right|300px|IC15 (on left), showing necessary cut and jumper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate IC15 on the MPU (see picture at left)&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate the trace that runs from between pins 6 and 7 of IC15 to a via just to the right of the chip&lt;br /&gt;
#Sever that trace carefully&lt;br /&gt;
#Using jumper wire, connect the through hole via to pin 1 of IC15.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Doublecheck the work once the jumper is installed. Perform a continuity test between pin 1 and pin 9 of IC15.  There should not be continuity.  Conversely, there should now be continuity between pin 1 of IC15, and pin 20 of IC14.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 Remove Components.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Components which must be removed from a stock System 3 MPU board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 3 MPU board reset circuit should be updated as follows. This update was recommended by Williams in manual amendment 16P-482-110, and is done to improve CMOS RAM memory content protection during power-on/power-off.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Added10K.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|10 Kohm 1/4W resistor added to circuit, upper left, connected to the banded end of the zener diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove C27, R30, and R40 from the upper left corner of the MPU&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor. One leg of the resistor will be soldered to the cathode of ZR1 (banded side - top).  The other leg of the resistor will be soldered to the left through hole where R30 formerly was. The newly installed 10 Kohm resistor is referred to as R96 in System 4 MPU schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:1N4148.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Addition of the D19 1N4148 diode installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add a 1N4148 diode, if it is not already installed. The location is in the upper left quadrant of the circuit board. The anode (non-banded side) of the diode should be installed in a via, which is just to the right of resistor R23. This via is routed to pin 17 of IC19.  The cathode (banded side) of the diode should be tack soldered to the solder pad where the right leg of resistor R23 is installed. Once installed, this 1N4148 diode is referred to as D19 on System 4 MPU schematics.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 MPU Sockets.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Addition of C68 is shown above, a .1uf 50v ceramic capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Install a .1uf 50v capacitor just below the newly installed IC14 socket. One leg of the capacitor connects to +5VDC, while the other leg is inserted into a via which is routed to the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 Clock Circuit.JPG|thumb|left|300px|A factory board without the recommended capacitor and inductor update.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3Mod.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|The recommended capacitor and inductor additions have been made to this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add a 120pF capacitor (C66) and a 15uH inductor (L1) in parallel with the R1 resistor located just to the left of the crystal. This modification also applies to System 4 boards which do not have these components installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys3CapUpdate.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Here, the originally installed capacitor has been replaced with the correct capacitor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, some System 3 MPUs came from the factory with a .01uf capacitor (marked 103) installed at position C22, (located just below IC19, the 5101 RAM). If so, replace that capacitor with a .1uf 50v capacitor. The purpose of this capacitor is to snub the high frequency noise created within the 5101 as silicon gates open and close. This applies to System 4 MPU boards too.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the above modifications are performed, a System 3 MPU board will be one-to-one compatible with a System 4 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 4===	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys4 MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem4MPU.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|Another view of the Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 architecture is little changed from the previous System 3 generation.  The only functional changes from System 3 to System 4 was a minor alteration to the reset circuit as well as minor changes to the data and address bus in order to more easily facilitate the use of larger EPROMS for the game specific programming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 4 machines began with Pokerino in 1978 and ended with Flash in 1979.  Late production Flash machines also utilized the then-new System 6 boardset in place of System 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; All System 6 software will run on a System 4 board. The exception is Firepower which utilized both the bipolar proms and a 2716 game eprom. Due to the missing memory protection circuit and somewhat unstable clock circuit replacing a System 6 CPU with a System 4 CPU is not recommended. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Upgrading a System 4 MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys4 Clock Circuit.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Changed layout with additional capacitor and inductor to the R1 resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 board has a revised clock circuit which usually does not need to be modified. If there are reset problems, replace the 22ufd tantal capacitor with a 33ufd type. This will lengthen the reset period a little and helps the clock circuit to stabilize. The capacitor modification can also be applied to System 3 boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If an incorrect capacitor is installed at position C22, (located just below IC19 - 5101 RAM), it is recommended to replace it.  This replacement is only necessary, if a 0.01mfd cap is installed.  If so, replace the 0.01mfd capacitor with a .1mfd 50v capacitor.  This applies to System 3 MPU boards too. Only early system 4 boards had an incorrect capacitor installed. Also check if the 0.01mfd blocking capacitor for IC14 is missing. If yes stuff it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 6===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS-6-MPU-board.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6A MPU Board. Note that the .156 headers on this board have been replaced and an LED indicating the blanking status has been added]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 6 was an upgrade to the System 4 design, replacing the 6800 processor with a 6808.  They took advantage of the internal clock in the 6808 CPU, removing the need for the 6875 clock generator (a companion chip to the 6800 and now obsolete and impossible to find). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This also changed the way the &#039;watchdog&#039; circuit functioned.  The watchdog monitors the CPU (IRQ signal), and will blank the displays and lamps as well as stopping the solenoids from firing. When something goes wrong (perhaps the MPU board has locked up), &#039;blanking&#039; should prevent further damage to the game by &#039;locked on&#039; coils and other output components driven from PIAs on the MPU/Driver boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More ROM memory could be addressed, and this was used to hold more sophisticated game code. As an example, Firepower used a 2716 2K Game ROM (which was standard for IC14) plus 3 x Harris bipolar proms (512 bytes each) giving a total game code size of 3,584 bytes.  Having just 3K of code space is nothing by today&#039;s standards.  Programmers had to work hard to get good game code in such a small space.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During early System 6 revisions the transceiver chips 8T28 ICs at IC9 and IC10 were found to not be needed.  They were eliminated from the design as they didn&#039;t need to amplify signals to and from the data bus with modern ROMs.  If the ICs are working, leave them alone. But if not, these buffers are obsolete and can be removed and bypassed, in effect by jumpering the data bus pins of the CPU directly to the data bus. i.e. IC9 and IC10 may be removed, and jumpers installed across pins 2-3, 5-6, 9-10, and 12-13 for both ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also around this period of game development, 8T97 bus &amp;quot;amplifier&amp;quot; ICs at IC3, IC4, and IC8 were used for address and control signals from the 6808 to peripheral ICs. 8T97s are long obsolete too, but fortunately can be replaced with an 74LS367, which Williams itself used in some revisions of the board. 8T97s can not be removed and jumpered like IC9 and IC10. They must be in place. Testing these chips is easy with a logic probe. The input signal should closely match the output signal of the amplifier. i.e. pins 2/3, 4/5, 6/7, 10/9, 12/11, and 14/13 should all test identical with a logic probe. Note that since the signal is amplified, logic probe indicators might vary somewhat. But, the probe should not measure high on one pin and low on the companion pin, for example.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 8T97 bus amplifiers communicate the following signals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*IC4 - A0 thru A5&lt;br /&gt;
*IC3 - A6 thru A11&lt;br /&gt;
*IC8 - A12 thru A15, VMA (valid memory address), and R/W (read/write)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On Firepower alone, the &#039;Combo ROM&#039; modification must be done to allow the use of a 2732 EPROM as the Game ROM at IC14.  This replaces the Firepower game code found in 4 ROMs as described [[Modifying a System 6 or 6A to Use The Firepower 2732 Combo ROM at IC14 | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]], and is an excellent idea. Less chips to worry about, less sockets to replace.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams also transitioned to using the updated 6821 PIAs during System 6 because the MC6820 was phased out after 1977. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replacing the 6808 with a 6802 ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Jumper1 6808.jpg|thumb|left|300px|J1 installed for 6808 or 6802 CPU chip]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 R4 6802.jpg|thumb|right|300px|J1 removed, 4.7 Kohm 1/4w resistor (R4) installed for use with 6802 CPU chip]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The typically stuffed 6808 microprocessor can be replaced with the more easily obtained 6802 microprocessor. The 6802 uses the same instruction set architecture and pinout, making it &amp;quot;backward compatible&amp;quot; with the 6808. The 6802 incorporates an internal 128 x 8 bit RAM memory. With the proper strapping, the 6810 RAM located at IC13 may be removed when a 6802 is installed. Factory strapping grounds pin 36 of the 6808/6802 socket via jumper J1. Pin 36 must be pulled high by tying pin 36 to 5V via a 4.7K pullup resistor. This enables the 6802&#039;s internal RAM. The 6810 at IC13 can then be removed or (if not socketed) simply left in place.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Procedure&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the 6808 with a 6802&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper J1&lt;br /&gt;
*Install a 4.7K resistor at R4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Officially, the 6808 has no internal RAM. But, internally it&#039;s identical to the 6802. Sometimes the 6808 internal RAM works but this is not guaranteed, so when using a 6808, be sure pin 36 is grounded.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Factory Jumper on System 6 MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Header Jumper.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6 MPU board with factory jumper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 and 6 Header Compare.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 6 and System 3 MPU board comparison]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 6 MPU boards have a jumper installed between IJ3 pin 1 and IJ4 pin 1.  This is a factory jumper, and should not be removed.  Its purpose is due to the addition of the memory protect circuit, which was incorporated with the System 6 MPU.  System 3 and 4 MPU boards did not have a memory protect circuit.  The method in which this was added is the addition of pin 1 of IJ4.  This pin was formerly the keying pin on System 3 and 4 MPU boards.  However, Williams failed to run a trace to this pin for the memory protect circuit.  Hence, a jumper was installed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using a System 6 MPU board in a System 3 or 4 game, it is recommended to remove the keying plug from the IJ4 connector in the game, as opposed to cutting / removing pin 1 or IJ4.  This will allow the MPU to be used in any System 6 games in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 6A===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys6a MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6A MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 6A MPU is a System 6 board without buffer chips at IC9 and IC10. In place of these chips were several jumpers in closed frames, which can look similar to a socket at first glance. The jumpers are used to pass the data lines from the CPU chip to the data bus.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 6A also used four 7-digit slave displays and one 4-digit slave display driven by a centralized display driver board. This separated the displays from any board logic. Prior to this point, a master display driver board (with a 6-digit or 4-digit glass installed directly on the driver board) housed the display logic and drove four 6-digit slave displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 6 boards that are not explicitly marked as 6A in the lower right corner were modified to be 6A boards, which can be identified by the lack of the IC9 and IC10 buffer chips. Either several uninsulated wire jumpers will be installed in the solder pads of these two chips, or the same closed frame jumpers as seen on actual 6A MPU boards may be present.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Modifying a System 6 or 6A to Use The Firepower 2732 Combo ROM at IC14====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS IC14 4700 Res 20 24.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Cuts made, jumper run, and 4.7Kohm resistor added]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS J3 J4 1N4148.jpg|thumb|right|300px|2 1N4148 diodes added where jumpers J3 &amp;amp; J4 previously were]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The factory ROMs for Firepower use all 6 ROM socket positions on a System 6 or 6A board.  To minimize the amount of chips and sockets used, some modifications have to be performed to the MPU board. In doing these modifications, the board will then be able to use &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; green flipper ROM chips at IC20 &amp;amp; IC17, and a single 2732 combo ROM at position IC14.  Below are instructions pulled from the readme.txt file, which is included with the Firepower L2 ROM code found on [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=856 www.ipdb.org]. Some of the procedure wording has been altered for clarification.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are similar methods which may or may not work besides this method. Note that the jumper wire can be connected from IC14 pin 21 to either IC30 pin 14 or pin 36 of the 40 pin interconnect. If at all possible, please make sure that the board being modified boots and works with other game code, such as Gorgar, Flash, or Firepower, before attempting to make these modifications for the Firepower combo ROM.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove Game ROMs (IC14, IC21, IC22, IC26) from their sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove jumpers that may be installed at J3 or J4 (to the right of IC15, a 74LS139).&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, at IC14 pin 21, sever the trace on both sides of the solder pad. Removing the existing solder on the pad may help. The idea is to sever the +5V connection to the pin, while still leaving the solder pad at the pin itself.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a jumper from IC14 pin 21 to IC30 pin 14. IC30 is generally not installed. It is a 16-pin chip outline just to the right of IC14 and just above the 40 pin interconnect. Solder the jumper between the hole at pin 14 of the empty IC30 location, and pin 21 of IC14, making sure to not short it to the other side of the trace previously cut at IC14. This connects A11 to IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a 4.7K ohm, 1/4 Watt resistor between pins 20 and 24 of IC14. With the resistor leads bent at 90 degrees at a comfortable distance from the body of the resistor, the legs should line up at just the right spacing to solder one lead to each of those pins.  Again, make sure to avoid shorting the pin 20 connection to the jumper wire at pin 21, or the cut trace edges around pin 21.  This provides a pullup for the active-low chip select.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install two fast switching signal diodes (either 1N914 and 1N4148) at locations J3 and J4. The cathode (banded) end should be oriented toward the TOP of the board for both diodes. This enables both of the two Game ROM address ranges to drive the active-low chip select at IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#Program a 2732 with the &amp;quot;FPCOMBO&amp;quot; ROM image and install at IC14. If the board doesn&#039;t already have working Green Flipper ROMs at IC17 and IC20, those should be installed also. Note the orientation of the ROMs with respect to pin 1 of the chip sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys7-MPU.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 7 was considered a major step change.  It had a redesigned MPU board, now supporting a single 7-segment LED display for indicating improved diagnostic information instead of the original 2 LEDs that System 3-6a MPU boards had used.  It also added commas to the player scoring displays and moved the sound select support to the MPU board.  An extra 6821 PIA supported both the sound/speech selects and the display of commas. An extra 12-pin header at 1J8 was added to provide connections for the new Sound and Commas support.  This freed up five solenoid drives at positions #9-13 on the Driver board, which had been sound/speech selects.  They were then available to drive extra game Coils or Flash Lamps.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU used two 2114 Static RAMs; these 1024 x 4 bit RAMs replaced the use of 6810 RAMs mentioned above.  There was extended memory addressing, support for multiple 2732 ROMs (or EPROMS) as standard and a huge number of jumper selections available.  The jumpers support various memory addressing schemes and ROM sizes, making the System 7 board MPU &amp;quot;backwards compatible&amp;quot; and able to emulate any of the previous System 4-6a games.  (Provided, of course, that the correct Jumper Settings and EPROMS are installed.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound and Speech boards were unchanged for System 7; both sound and speech boards remained compatible from their introduction for Gorgar.  In some cases the System 7 game had no 0.100&amp;quot; 40-way IDC header for the speech board connection. This was a cost saving measure made by Williams for games produced without speech. This connector is cheap and available today as it is still used for PC IDE hard drives and modern PCB connections.  Adding this connector back to the sound board allows it to support a speech &#039;daughter board&#039; by removing the Jumper at W1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Driver Board mates with the MPU board using 40 x 0.156&amp;quot; header pins on the MPU and female sockets on the Driver Board.  This is a continual source of repair problems for this era of Williams machines.  To solve this, when designing System 9 Williams combined the MPU and Driver Boards (and the Sound Board) onto a single PCB (Printed Circuit Board), and removed the problems associated with the now infamous Williams &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; connector.  Only the speech board remained separate, as digital speech was considered an optional feature.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7 MPU Jumper and IC Locator====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 MPU Jumpers Marked.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Positions of the jumpers on a System 7 MPU board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7ICLocator.png|300px|right|thumb|IC Locations on a System 7 MPU board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System7ICLocator.png&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The image at left shows the most common jumpers on a System 7 MPU board. There are other jumpers on the right hand side of the board (not shown in the pic). However, these jumpers are rarely added or removed, nor do they pertain to the size of the ROM chips installed on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right is provided to assist in IC location.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The factory release of most System 7 MPUs contained a 2532 PROM at IC17. The more common 2732 is easy to use, with minor board modifications.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7MPUJumper.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Component side of a System 7 MPU board with modifications for a 2732 at position IC17]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 MPU 2732 IC17 Mod.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Solder side of a System 7 MPU board with modifications for a 2732 at position IC17]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;On the component side of the board,&#039;&#039;&#039; move jumper 22 to jumper 23. This amounts to moving the jumper down one position.&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;On the solder side of the board,&#039;&#039;&#039; cut the fat trace that grounds pin 21.&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the via labeled &amp;quot;22&amp;quot; to pin 21 of IC17. Be sure that the jumper doesn&#039;t short to the jumper previously moved on the component side.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7 MPU Test Pad Info====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an unpopulated connector in the lower right corner of the system 7 MPU board.  You can use a meter or logic probe to test the signals that are present on it or possibly add a connector to it (you can use a .100 dual row 20x2 connector).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:Williams-sys7-unpopulated-connector.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Unpopulated Connector]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|gnd || 40 || 39 || gnd&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d7 || 38 || 37 || ic36 CA2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d6 || 36 || 35 || ic37/15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d5 || 34 || 33 || ic37/14&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d4 || 32 || 31 || ic37/13&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d3 || 30 || 29 || ic37/21&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d2 || 28 || 27 || ic36 pb4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d1 || 26 || 25 || ic36 cb2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d0 || 24 || 23 || blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|reset || 22 || 21 || vma&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|r/w || 20 || 19 || bus 02&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a14 || 18 || 17 || a15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a12 || 16 || 15 || a13&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a10 || 14 || 13 || a11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a8 || 12 || 11 || a9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a6 || 10 || 9 || a7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a4 || 8 || 7 || a5&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a2 || 6 || 5 || a3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a0 || 4 || 3 || a1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| +5vdc || 2 || 1 || +5vdc&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
! colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; | Bottom of board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Compatibility===&lt;br /&gt;
Williams 3-7 MPU are pretty flexible.  With some modifications, boards can be upward compatible, while others are downward compatible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the details:&lt;br /&gt;
*A System 3 MPU can be upward compatible to a System 4 MPU, if the upgrades are performed as described [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Upgrading_a_System_3_board_to_System_4 above].  And if a System 3 MPU is upgraded to a System 4 MPU, it is then upward compatible with a System 6 MPU board.  There will not be a memory protect circuit though.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 4 and 4A MPUs are upward compatible to a System 6 MPU, when a socket is installed and used at position IC14.  However, there will not be a memory protection circuit. A System 4 MPU is backward compatible with a System 3 MPU with no modifications performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 6 and 6A MPUs are backward with System 3, 4, and 4A MPU boards with no modifications performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*A System 7 MPU is backward compatible with System 3, 4, 4A, 6, and 6A MPU boards.  However, board jumpers will have to be removed / installed.  It not recommended to use a System 7 MPU board in any previous systems, but it can be done.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 3, 4, 4A, 6, and 6A MPU boards are &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; upward compatible with System 7 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In any instance where a non-native MPU board is used in place of the original MPU board, the correct flipper ROMs and game ROM must be installed.  An example would be if an upgraded System 3 MPU were to be used in Gorgar.  The GREEN flipper Roms and Gorgar game ROM would have to be installed in postions IC20, IC17, and IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Aftermarket Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottendogMPU327.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|A Rottendog MPU327, which can be installed in any Williams System 3 - 6 game.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MPU327StuffedWrong.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|U17 on an MPU327, stuffed correctly with a 74HCT9114.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 Rottendog] offers aftermarket Williams 3 through 7 combined MPU/driver boards. The Rottendog board (pictured left) contains all the game code for every System 3 through 6 game. The game code is DIP switch selectable. Note that the &amp;quot;sense&amp;quot; of the DIP switch bank is backwards. Follow the on-board silkscreen to the left of the DIP switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note: as of January 2018, Rottendog is no longer claiming support for System 7 games with their MPU327 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some &#039;&#039;&#039;older&#039;&#039;&#039; Rottendog MPU327s were stuffed wrong at the factory. U17, which services the switch columns, should be stuffed with a 74HCT9114. In some boards, that location is stuffed with a 74HCT244, which will not work correctly. Note that there are several revisions of the MPU327 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU327Short.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|A Rottendog MPU327, installed, and shorted to a switch matrix header pin. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image provided by Tony, PinSider &amp;quot;goingincirclez&amp;quot;. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU327ShortCorrection.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|One user&#039;s (excellent) correction for the situation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image provided by Tony, PinSider &amp;quot;goingincirclez&amp;quot;. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog MPU327 PCB design causes the switch matrix row header (2J3) to short to a mounting bracket as shown at left. This can cause the switch column IC at U17 to fail. A simple correction for this issue is shown at right. See the [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/warning-to-rottendog-327-owners-check-it-now original Pinside thread] for additional details.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RD 327 MPU Combo Dipswitch.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Rottendog MPU327 game select dipswitch bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the dipswitch bank used for selecting a specific game has 8 dipswitches, whereas only the 6 switches on the right are the only ones used.  The 2 left dipswitches must be turned &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; (opposite of what is expected of a dipswitch) to &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Driver Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3-6===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-6 drvr.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 3-6 Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board uses three 6821 Peripheral Interface Adapter (PIA) chips to drive:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* an 8x8 Matrix for the Lamps&lt;br /&gt;
* an 8x8 Matrix for the Switches&lt;br /&gt;
* Solenoids and Sound Selects&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More properly, the PIAs were used to drive transistors that in turn drive the lamp matrix, switch matrix, and solenoid circuits. In the case of the solenoids, Darlington transistors are used as &amp;quot;solid state relays&amp;quot;, providing a path to ground for coil power, causing them to energize.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The electronic design choices Williams made became the basis for all subsequent Bally/Williams pinball games and even games being made today. The specific CPU and PIA ICs may change, more memory and ROM space is available to the programmers, MOSFETs are used as the switching relays instead of transistors...yet the basic design established for the lamp matrix, switch matrix, and for energizing coils, remains unchanged.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7===	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 drvr board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board remained almost completely unchanged from System 3 right through to System 7 with the exception of one small change that was made to the driver board during System 7.  Eight resistors were changed to zero-ohm jumpers in the switch matrix inputs to increase sensitivity and responsiveness.  These zero ohm resistors are located in the upper right corner of the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7 Hyperball Specific Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HyperBallSpecificDriverBoard.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 Hyperball Specific Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since Hyperball didn&#039;t need to drive coils other than the cannon coil and the auger motor, and since it needed to drive many more lamps than a normal pinball game, Williams created a unique, special purpose variant of the driver board specifically for Hyperball. This driver board can only be used in Hyperball, and a regular System 3 through 7 driver board can NOT be used in Hyperball.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Power Supplies==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Early_Sys3_Power_Supply.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Early Williams System 3-6 Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 3-6 power supply used in [[Hot Tip]] and [[Lucky Seven]] have a few additional components that later games did not need, physically located a little above the row of four fuses: two .22mfd mylar capacitors and two 1N4001 diodes. If a later power supply is being installed in Hot Tip or Lucky Seven, these components must be added to the board if they are missing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams continued to populate these components for several following games, but they were not utilized. These components can be safely left populated or simply removed from the board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PowerSupply.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Williams System 7 Power Supply (GI input connector modified from stock)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the parts bill of materials for some (perhaps all) system 7 games call out a 2N6087 power transistor for Q5. This is most likely a typo. A 2N6057 or 2N6059 should be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Flipper Power Supply==&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 7 C-9939 50V Flipper Power Supply Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:C-9939-Front.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS-C-9939-Back.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Back&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB was first used in Hyperball to control the auger (ball lift) motor. As seen in the pictures above, the PCB layout was designed to accommodate more components than were ever stuffed.  This is because this same board, using different components, is used in some Williams video games. In Firepower II, Laser Cue and Star Light the trimmed down version shown here provides the flipper coils with 50VDC power. The AC voltage supplied to the bridge rectifier originates from a second, smaller, transformer mounted on the wooden plank in the bottom rear of the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the coil voltage this board provides is exactly the same as that of later System 11 games, far stronger Williams coils, such as the FL-11630, can be used in these games. It&#039;s advisable when using these coils to install a 2.2µF capacitor across each EOS switch, to reduce spark across the EOS switch, as was done in later Williams System 11 games. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board suffers from cold solder joints at the header pins (at least). As shown in the picture above, someone did a (poor) job of reflowing the solder on the header pins. A better solution would be to replace the header pins altogether.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The exact same board is used in all System 9 and early System 11 games up until F-14 Tomcat. Data East copied this design. Hence, this 50VDC Power Supply can be used in Data East games from Laser War to Time machine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sound Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During the long run of System 3 through 7 games, Williams used two basic board types, designated Type 1 and Type 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Type 1 Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundFront.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams Type 1 Sound Board back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board is rectangular in shape as pictured at left. Two versions of this board were manufactured. One version placed the 12,000uf 5V filter capacitor vertically. The other version placed the same capacitor horizontally. The boards function identically. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen on the back of the board pictured at right, the board was modified from the factory to add 3 jumpers (the three longer red wires) to make it work correctly. Every Type 1 sound board should have these jumpers. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The factory installed jumpers take advantage of trace &amp;quot;vias&amp;quot; to accomplish these connections.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A long jumper that connects the reset pins on the 6821 PIA (pin 34) and the 6802 (pin 40)&lt;br /&gt;
#Pin 40 of the 6802 also needs to be jumpered to pin 36 of the 6802 for the reset circuit to be complete.&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper pin 35 to pin 8 of the 6802. This ties Vcc1 and Vcc2 together.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams documented &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;additional&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; modifications in the &amp;quot;Flash&amp;quot; manual. The board pictured has been updated with all of these modifications. A drawing of these modifications and jumpers can be found [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/d/d5/Sojueen.pdf &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The modifications are:&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between pins 39 and 40 of the 6821 PIA&lt;br /&gt;
#Add two 10K, 1/4W resistors &lt;br /&gt;
#(Possible) replace two 100K resistors with 4.7K, 1/4W resistors. Note that some boards shipped with 4.7K resistors installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Modifications 1 and 2&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;quot;reduce the susceptibility of the sound board to noise&amp;quot;. The &amp;quot;noise&amp;quot; can cause the board to stop execution after a short time, especially when using a 9316B or 2716 ROM. If a sound board makes sound after pressing the diagnostic button, but either makes no other sound, or makes sound for a short time and then quits, these two mods will probably fix this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Modification 3&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;quot;improves the quality of the sound produced at the speaker&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Theory of Operation&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board is about as basic as a sound board can be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*A 3.58Mhz crystal provides the clock signal across pins 38 and 39 of the 6802.&lt;br /&gt;
*A simple reset generator is configured with Q1, Q2, and CR3 (a 6.8V zener diode). As the unregulated 12VDC rises past 6.8V, the zener breaks down, eventually allowing pin 40 of the 6802 to be pulled up to logic high (5V).&lt;br /&gt;
*A diagnostic pushbutton, upper right, grounds the NMI (non-maskable interrupt) signal to the 6802 processor and causes the board to play a diagnostic tune (in most cases).&lt;br /&gt;
*A two position switch selects between &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; (right) or &amp;quot;chimes&amp;quot; (left).&lt;br /&gt;
*A volume adjustment POT is located on the board itself, and is a 5K POT.&lt;br /&gt;
*A 6802 microprocessor controls the board via a 6821 Peripheral Interface Adapter (PIA).&lt;br /&gt;
*The board does not have a RAM IC (like a 6810). Instead, the built-in 128 bytes (yes, 8-bit bytes) of RAM on the 6802 are used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power is provided from the transformer secondary at connector 10J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1,2 - 9VAC&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 5,6 - Ground (center tap)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 7 - Key&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 8,9 - 9VAC &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power is fused and rectified via the &amp;quot;in-line&amp;quot; bridge rectifier immediately below the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
Positive unregulated 12VDC is filtered by a 12,000uf/25V electrolytic capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
Negative unregulated -12VDC is filtered by a 1,000uf/25V electrolytic capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
The positive unregulated 12VDC is regulated down to 5VDC via a 7805 regulator at IC11.&lt;br /&gt;
These three voltages, plus ground, define the power requirements for the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A speaker is connected to 10J2, positive to pins 1/2, ground to pins 3/4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound selects are presented by the driver board to the sound board at connector 10J3. Selecting a particular sound is a matter of grounding the appropriate sound select pins which are normally held high via 4.7K pullup resistors at R37 through R44. Each signal is buffered via the 4050 non-inverting hex buffers at IC8 and IC9.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the sound select signals is connected to both a 4068 8-input NAND gate and to the (software configured) input port of the 6821 PIA (PB0-PB7). The output of the 4068 is connected to pin 18 (CB1) of the 6821 which is configured by the sound board software to create an interrupt to the 6802 processor. When the 6821 PIA interrupts the processor, the interrupt servicing routine reads the input port (PB0-PB7) of the PIA to determine which sound was commanded. The processor pulls sound data from the sound ROM and pushes the data to the 6821 PIA (software configured) output ports (PA0-PB7) one 8 bit byte at a time. The PIA output port signals drive a simple 1408 DAC (digital to analog converter) which produces the analog signal that is stabilized and eventually amplified by a TDA2002 audio amplifier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board shares most of the common faults associated with the Williams System 3-7 board set. Chief among them are:&lt;br /&gt;
#ScanBe sockets. These are well documented to be long past their useful life and should always be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
#Fractured solder joints at the header pins. The Williams manufacturing process trimmed the .156 header pins too short, damaging the solder meniscus. Over time, these solder joints develop fractures. The header pin eventually begins to work itself out of the joint which causes reliability issues.&lt;br /&gt;
#Aged electrolytic capacitors. At the very least, the 12,000uf/25V 5VDC filter capacitor should be replaced. Replacing all of the electrolytic caps is advised. Following is the capacitor parts list.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Electrolytic Capacitors Used&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*C10 - 25uF, 25 Volt Axial (can use 22uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C13 - 500uF, 16 Volt Axial (can use 470uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C14 - 800uF, 16 Volt Axial (can use 1000uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - 100uF, 10 Volt Axial&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 12000uF, 16 Volt Axial &lt;br /&gt;
*C30 - 1000uF, 16 Volt Axial&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-4RectangularSoundBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2 with the horizontal cap, front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Type1soundBoardHorizontalCapBack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2 with the horizontal cap, back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
These images show a Type 1 sound board that was introduced later in production. The 5VDC filter capacitor was turned horizontally. Also, an extra connector was added to enable a remote volume POT. Note that this sound board has been &amp;quot;recapped&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This revision of the sound board picked up the jumper modifications of the earlier board in the PCB design, with one exception. Pins 39 and 40 of the 6821 need to be bridged (or jumped) to avoid the board locking up after a short (and random) period of time. A solder bridge can be seen at pins 39 and 40 of the sound board pictured at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBoardJumper.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2, closeup of jumper to enable onboard sound POT]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later production Type 1 sound boards added a connector to enable a remote volume POT. If the remote POT is not used and the onboard POT is used instead, a jumper must be installed between pins 1 and 2 of this connector. The pictured jumper is quite Gucci. A simple wire jumper on the back of the PCB will suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 1 Sound Board Jumpers==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundFront.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 Sound board can be jumpered to use a 7641 masked ROM, a 9316B masked ROM, or a 2716 (or doubled 2732). The board pictured at left is jumpered to accept either at 9316B or a 2716. To use a 7641 masked ROM, remove the four jumpers to the right and just below the sound ROM, and install the opposite set of four jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Type 2 Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound and Speech Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys6-7 sound.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys6-7 sound speech.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board with Speech Board Connection&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WilliamsType2SoundAndSpeechBoarfPair.jpg ‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board with Speech Board. Note that this -3 revision board features a tantalum capacitor soldered directly between test point 1 (+12VDC) and test point 3 (ground). In later board revisions, this part was added to the PCB design.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Speakers==&lt;br /&gt;
With the exception of Hot Tip and Lucky 7, all Williams System 3-7 games use a speaker.  And, nearly all of them use a single 6-1/2&amp;quot; speaker located on the cabinet bottom (later games, like Firepower II, had an oblong speaker below the smaller backglass instead).  Speakers used during games such as Firepower were 8 ohm 5 watt.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Displays==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Using UDN7180A - Common)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-6 Master Display NE584.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Using NE584 - Less Common)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display discrete.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board w/ Discrete Components]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-SYS6-displays.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Slave Displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys6a-7 display drvr.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 6A-7 Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-SYS7-displays.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 7-Digit Slave Displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bowler6DigitFace.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Puck Bowler Display Glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bowler6DigitBottom.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Puck Bowler Display Edge Connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Flippers==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Drop Target Banks==&lt;br /&gt;
===First Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drops.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Typical first generation Williams solid state drop target bank (Time Warp)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with the first Williams solid state game, Hot Tip, Williams introduced their version of the solid state drop target bank.  Drop target banks were a rather new design for Williams.  They were the last major pinball manufacturer to introduce the drop target bank earlier in 1977 with the electromechanical game, Big Deal.  And, only 3 games prior to the solid state version of Hot Tip, including the electromechanical version of Hot Tip, were manufactured with drop target banks.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reason for mentioning the background regarding Williams drop target banks is because of the actual design implemented.  There is one distinct difference between Williams drop target banks and any other manufacturer&#039;s drop target bank.  In addition to using a scoring switch for each drop target in a bank, Williams used a secondary set of switches paired in series to detect when all of the drop targets were physically dropped.  The drop target bank frame, reset coil or coils, appearance of the drop target faces on the playfield, and operation of the bank was virtually the same between Williams electromechanical games and solid state games.  Therefore, it is believed that Williams designed their banks this way, because they had not been designing drop target banks that long, and decided upon a legacy approach.  In other words, the Williams solid state drop target banks used hardware instead of software to detect when all the drop targets were down.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drops Back.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Backside of Williams first generation drop targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The design of the drop targets are very different from any other manufacturer&#039;s design.  Unlike Bally, Stern, or Gottlieb, the Williams drop target is a meaty, reinforced plastic which is fairly consistent in thickness and width throughout the target.  Williams does not use a face with a long neck stemmed down in size.  The benefit to this design is that breakage is minimized.  The downside to this design is extra added weight.  There are several other design differences too, such as the compression spring used to pull the target down.  It is physically screwed to the front of the drop target plastic, as opposed to being attached via a molded &amp;quot;hook&amp;quot; like other manufacturers.  This too is a plus, because the molded hooks on other drop target systems are prone to breakage.  However, probably the most recognizable difference is the drop target switch design.  On the back side of a Williams drop target, a switch triggering mechanism in the form of a copper horseshoe with two contacts is physically screwed to the plastic.  The combination of the horseshoe contacts and discrete circuit boards for each target mounted to the bank of the bank are what is used to detect the three states of the drop target position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Drop Anim.GIF|150px|thumb|left|Simulation of the three different states of a Williams drop target]]&lt;br /&gt;
A simulation of the operation of a Williams drop target switch can be viewed at the animation located to the left. As mentioned before, the horseshoe contact is attached to the backside of the drop target plastic.  The horseshoe contact makes physical contact with the thick copper or tinned traces of the circuit board, which is secured to the backside of the drop target bank.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An explanation of the three different states of the drop target are:&lt;br /&gt;
#When the horseshoe contact is located at the uppermost set of traces, the first frame in the animation, the drop target is in the upright position (fully reset).&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the drop target face is struck by the ball, the drop target plastic is pushed from the metal ledge of the metal drop target frame.  As the drop target falls, the horseshoe contacts slide over a second set of traces on the circuit board, as seen in the second frame of the animation.  These contacts are tied to the switch matrix via a switch strobe and return line respectively.  The switch strobe line is common to all drop targets in the bank, while each drop target in a bank will have its own switch return line.  Each switch pair is used for scoring purposes.&lt;br /&gt;
#Finally, the drop target will fully drop, and the contacts come to rest on a third set of traces on the circuit board.  This set of traces is tied in series from one drop target circuit board to the other.  Because the pairs of traces for each target are tied together in series, a switch, secondary to the individual scoring switches is used.  Once all of the targets in the bank are dropped, the series switch circuit is complete.  The switch matrix detects this as a single switch closure.  In turn, the drop target bank is reset.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drop Bank Marked.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Switch solder points identified on a drop target bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the maze of similar-colored wires on the back of a Williams first generation drop target bank, it can be somewhat intimidating as to what wire goes where.  The switch return lines (white wires with colored traces) attach to the solder tabs of the eyelets.  Likewise, the non-banded side of the diode attaches to the same solder tab of the eyelet.  The switch strobe line (green wire with a colored trace) can be attached to any of the points circled in green.  On the bank in the adjacent pic, the switch strobe wire was attached to the green circled area on the far right.  The black and gray wires are sometimes substituted with different colors like yellow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Second Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Leaf Drops.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Typical second generation Williams drop target bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Black Knight, Williams slightly changed the design of the drop target bank.  Instead of using horseshoe contacts and circuit boards for switch detection on each drop target, the horseshoe contacts were replaced with a copper leaf spring and the discrete circuit boards were replaced with leaf switch stacks.  Detecting when all the drop targets down was now handled via software.  There are subtle physical differences in the drop target plastic.  The most obvious difference is the thickness of the bottom of the drop target.  The thickness was increased to compensate for the use of bottom mounted leaf switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Third Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+++ Need pic of drop target bank with microswitches +++&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The third and final generation of System 3-7 drop target banks are essentially the same as the second generation.  The main difference is that microswitches were used to detect when a drop target drops versus leaf switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Additional Diagnostics - Pincoder test ROMs==&lt;br /&gt;
A comprehensive set of free, third party diagnostic/test ROMs can be found here: http://pincoder.ca&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ROMs can be used in-game to test individual components of your pinball machine. Additionally, the RAM and CMOS tests thoroughly check all addressable locations within each chip, resulting in extremely accurate results.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Support for these ROMs can be found on Pinside here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-williams-system-6-in-game-test-roms&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Recommended Modifications=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Additional Fuses==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6_Fused_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Firepower)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 3-7 Fused Bridges Inline Butt Connectors.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Inline fuse holders installed with solderless crimp butt connectors]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams failed to include fuses in the AC connection between the transformer secondary and the solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers. In theory, the primary power fuse should blow if one of these bridges short. However, this is not always the case. Sometimes, the bridges short in such a manner that the wiring from the transformer secondary to the bridge becomes the fuse, and the wiring insulation melts until something gives. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This problem can be addressed by adding 2 fuse blocks and two 8 amp slo-blo fuses. For each bridge, afuse is added between either transformer secondary wire and the bridge. The AC inputs to the bridge are both marked with a &#039;tilde&#039; on the BR which looks like an &#039;S&#039; on it&#039;s side:   &#039;&#039;&#039;~&#039;&#039;&#039;.  The wire colors are typically red for solenoids, and blue for the controlled lamps.  However, it is best to consult the game schematics to confirm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although the preferred method is to put fuse holders on the backbox wall, installing fuses in any configuration is paramount. One way is to use inline fuse holders, and solderless crimp butt connectors. This is a quick and easy alternative, even though it may not be the prettiest solution.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FirePowerAdditionalFusing.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The Firepower schematics, updated to include two 8ASB fuses between the transformer secondary and both the solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams incorporated an 8A normal-blo fuse in later games (Big Guns and newer), while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem is the Inkochnito Bridge Board that can be found at this link: http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 and System 4 games did not incorporate a fuse for the 9.3VAC supply lines. If either diode D7 or D8 shorts, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;something&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; in the circuit will act as a fuse. Sometimes, a board trace acts as a fuse under these conditions. It is much, much better to add two 4 amp slo-blo fuses directly after the transformer, just as Williams did when System 6 games were introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==MPU Batteries &amp;amp; Memory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Relocating the batteries away from the MPU board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|120px|thumb|left|Leaking Battery]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3xAA batteries from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; is displayed in the credit/match display, rather than the game going into attract mode, then the game is in audits mode:&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the 5101 CMOS RAM (check Test Point TP7, which should measure 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v (or so) with the power off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking Diode D18 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There is another problem holding settings, such as a faulty 5101 CMOS RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries is not really an option as the game will not boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on. It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (usually obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores  It&#039;s possible on System 3-7 games to switch the game off, and then quickly back on to go from the &#039;04 00 audit mode&#039; to attract mode. Credits would still need to be added by the coin switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear= all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remote Battery Pack===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board (see driver board pic below). Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea, so the pack can easily remove the battery pack from the board. Plus, it the batteries are forgotten and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. Another solution is to buy a battery holder with the &#039;transistor radio&#039; type connector which can be snapped on and off. Just be very careful if using this style of connector. Adding a tag noting that a &#039;&#039;&#039;9 volt battery should never be connected&#039;&#039;&#039; is a very good idea. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement. If only a 4 x AA battery holder is a available, a diode or jumper can be soldered in the first position. A diode is the preferred approach, as this will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D17 on the MPU board fails. Keep in mind that an added secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the 5101, if D17 is still good. Locate a 1N4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the Red wire and towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The game takes 3 x AA Batteries, so it uses at least 4.5v total. However, it will still store settings down to about 3v or so. After that an AA battery&#039;s life will taper off very quickly. A fresh set of batteries should last for at least a year, or the is some other issue. If the 5101 CMOS RAM is socketed, it&#039;s possible that it isn&#039;t the low power version. Or, possibly the D17 diode has shorted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The images below illustrate how to install the wiring for battery packs on the different MPU Boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_sys4_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 4 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_sys6a_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 6 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 6(a) MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Top Right pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Bottom Left.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_sys7_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 7 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 7 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board. All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; can be somewhat common. Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another good practice, while the MPU board is already out, is to check the D17 blocking diode. An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the 5101 non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective. Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack. This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on. If Alkaline batteries are charged, they will be damaged and fail, leak, or (in extreme cases) explode. Testing the D17 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out. When in doubt, replace the D17 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack. Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5101, if D17 is still good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms drvr bat dam.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Alkaline Damaged Williams Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to remotely relocate the batteries from the MPU board, unless using a lithium replacement. The potential is there for not only the MPU to become damaged, but other associated boards in the backbox. The pic to the left is a prime example of extended damage. The damage occurred in this instance, because the shuffle bowler this board came from was stored with the batteries still on the MPU board for an extended period of time (roughly 5-8 years). It&#039;s a costly shame, because this was an otherwise decent, clean, working driver board. The amount of repairs which have to be performed now are going to be extensive.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Installing a Lithium Coin Cell Battery Backup===&lt;br /&gt;
An alternate solution to a remotely located battery pack is to use a single CR2032 battery and holder mounted on the MPU. Lithium button batteries do leak, although not nearly as commonly or as severe as alkaline batteries. And, since the battery will be contained in a holder mounted above the PCB, there is little risk of corrosion attacking the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The holder and replacement batteries are inexpensive.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The following photo gallery shows the installation procedure.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This method can be adapted to work with all Williams System 3-7 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 4 MPU Coin Cell Installation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-1.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Small hole drilled at intersection of holder pin &amp;quot;arc&amp;quot; and trace on board solder side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-2.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Battery holder installed, front side. Note the &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; soldered between the top left and top right battery holder holes.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-3.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Battery holder installed, rear side. Note the negative connection marked lower right and the path of the positive connection.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Installing a Memory Capacitor (SuperCap) Instead of Batteries===&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor.  In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is minimal compared to a rechargeable battery.  When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor.  When the game is turned off, the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time.  Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again.  If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 3/4====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-4SuperCap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|5.5V 1F Memory Capacitor Added to a System 3 MPU Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a SuperCap, the polarity of the cap needs to match the battery pad polarity. Connect the negative lead of the cap to ground. In the picture at left, the old top center battery holder connection was leveraged as an attach point. A jumper (not shown) on the back of the board connects from there to the edge of board ground. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the positive lead to the the upper right battery holder connection through hole.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove D18 and replace with a 100ohm 1/4W resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, leave the game powered on to allow the game to charge the capacitor fully. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes allows the capacitor to recharge.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 6====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Mem Cap.JPG|300px|thumb|left|5.5V 1.5F Memory Capacitor Added to a System 6 MPU Board. Labels added to help locate parts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a SuperCap, the polarity of the cap needs to match the battery pad polarity. Connect the negative lead of the cap to ground. Connect the positive lead to the banded side of diode D18 (1N5817).  The picture to the left shows a jumper added to connect the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 6 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
As an alternative to running the positive lead of the cap to diode D18, the positive cap lead is installed in the positive battery terminal. The diode at D17 (1N4148) is removed, and a 100ohm resistor (or similar value) replaces the diode. Adding a resistor in place of D17 allows the game to charge the capacitor.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, leave the game powered on to allow the game to charge the capacitor fully. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes allows the capacitor to recharge. If the cap is losing its charge rapidly, diode D18 may be faulty, and should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7====&lt;br /&gt;
Follow these steps to add a SuperCap to a System 7 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a 1/16&amp;quot; hole NorthWest of the upper right positive battery terminal solder pad. The distance from the positive battery terminal hole should be the width of the SuperCap leads. The hole will be pierce a large ground trace on the solder side of the board (right hand image).&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the SuperCap positive lead through the battery terminal solder pad. &lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the SuperCap negative lead to the ground trace on the solder side of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove diode D17, a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a 100ohm (or thereabouts) 1/4W resistor in place of D17. Polarity is not important as resistors have no polarity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following images demonstrate the procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 7 MPU SuperCap Installation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1/16&amp;quot; hole drilled for the negative &amp;quot;leg&amp;quot; of the SuperCap.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The SuperCap and 100ohm resistor installed.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The solder side of the board showing SuperCap connections.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Installing NVRAM ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NVRAM (non-volatile RAM) can be used in all Williams System 3 through 7 MPUs. By installing NVRAM, batteries will never, ever, be required to retain game settings and high scores. The possibility of spewing alkaline onto the board is eliminated. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 3-7 games, the 5101 RAM chip is always at IC19, although the actual physical position of IC19 on the MPU differs between the systems. Unfortunately, the 5101 RAM is &#039;&#039;&#039;always&#039;&#039;&#039; soldered directly onto the board. It must be desoldered and replaced with a 22-pin 0.3&amp;quot; width socket to accommodate the NVRAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NVRAM are discussed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=MPU_Battery_Replacement_Options#Products here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Improving the Early System 3 Flipper Response==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the early solid state games, Williams re-used the flipper mechanism from their electromechanical games. This design, composed of multiple pieces screwed to the bottom of the playfield, is functional but somewhat clunky in operation. There are those that advocate scrapping the mechanism and replacing it with modern Williams baseplate design flippers. While this certainly works, and provides a much nicer flipper response, it also costs money for new parts when the old parts can be made to work reasonably well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, rebuild the flipper assembly with fresh parts. This includes the coil stops, plunger and links, coil sleeves, EOS switches, cabinet switches, and pawls (if needed). Pinball Resource has all these parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This leaves a functional, reasonably strong, but &#039;clunky&#039; flipper. It will work, but it will not seem as &#039;snappy&#039; and &#039;fast&#039; as a modern game. While the modern (WPC) baseplate style flipper mechanism is nice, the most important change is actually not the baseplate, it is the modern flipper bat itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a slight difference in mass between the original bat at 1.5 oz and the new bat at a little under 1 oz, but what accounts for the difference is the way the mass is distributed. On the old flipper design, a heavy metal base is welded to the shaft, and the plastic bat is screwed to the base. On the new design, the plastic bat is simply molded to the shaft, eliminating the base entirely.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams Flipper Bat Comparison&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 3 flipper bat assembly (two-piece)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat4.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams molded flipper bat assembly&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper coil is energized, it begins accelerating the plunger, pulling it in to the centre of the coil. This acceleration is transmitted to the shaft via the crank, accelerating the flipper bat. In this rotational acceleration of the bat, the further the mass is from the centre of the shaft, the more work required to accelerate it, and the slower the rate of acceleration. (Incidentally, this is why magnesium wheels first became popular in drag racing; they are lighter than steel wheels and increase the car&#039;s rate of acceleration. It does not change the car&#039;s top speed, but it does reduce the time it takes the car to reach top speed, making it quicker.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of the coil&#039;s power stroke, the plunger slams in to the coil stop, rapidly decelerating. In turn, then, the link, crank, and flipper bat also slam in to the previous part and rapidly decelerate. In this part of the action, the higher mass of the old flipper bat has more momentum, and due to the location of that mass, has more leverage to apply the force of the momentum. This leads to a hard clunk as all of that mass slams to a stop, and often results in a flipper bat that &#039;bounces&#039; at the end of stroke.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The solution to both of these is to reduce the mass of the flipper bat, especially reducing it as far from the centre line of the flipper shaft as possible. Looking at the options, there are only three pieces to the flipper bat. The plastic bat is not really easily modified to reduce any serious mass. The screw that holds the plastic bat to the base is not easy to reduce in mass, and being located close to the centre line of the flipper shaft, it has very little effect on the operation. That leaves the flipper shaft and its welded on base.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The shaft itself has significant mass, but the mass of the shaft is located very close to the centre line, so it can be ignored as well. That, then, leaves the base. Here there is quite a lot of mass, and much of it is located a good distance from the centre line of the flipper shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First remove the plastic shoe from the bat (there is a single screw underneath the bat). Then screw the metal bat to a piece of scrap wood, and drill the metal bat baseplate to remove metal. This is easiest to do neatly with a drill press. Drill two 5/16&amp;quot; hole near the shaft, and progressively  smaller holes toward the tip. A total of seven holes can be drilled: 5/16&amp;quot;, 5/16&amp;quot;, 1/4&amp;quot;, 7/32&amp;quot;, 3/16&amp;quot;, 5/32&amp;quot;, 1/8&amp;quot;. These holes remove about 1/2 oz from the flipper bat assembly without significantly affecting its strength or durability. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 3 Flipper Bat Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Drilling the flipper bat shoe&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Flipper bat shoe after being drilled&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reassemble the flipper bat, install, and enjoy. The flippers should feel snappier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Problems and Fixes=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FirePowerCrossConnect.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|These two FirePower connectors are clearly misconnected as can be seen by different wire colors entering and leaving the connector pair. The connector colors should not be trusted. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Kevin Scholbe&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU and/or driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==Advanced Diagnostic Tool by Pincoder==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
An advanced diagnostic tool with full (downloadable) documentation and active support is available here: [https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/ Pincoder Adapter]. The Adapter simply plugs into the MPU board right out of the box and can be used in-game for all tests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Built In Diagnostics==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3DiagnosticButtonCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diagnostic switch location on a WMS System 3 MPU]]The built in diagnostics of the Williams System 3 - 7 board set are extremely limited. The board set either powers up or it doesn&#039;t. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two diagnostic LEDs on the MPU (system 7 MPUs feature a 7 segment display). However, the usefulness of these LEDs is at best limited and generally just confusing. A properly booting System 3-6 game will flash both LEDs once, and then the LEDs will remain off. This flash is a bit longer than a flicker, staying on for about 1/2 second. A properly booting System 7 game will flash a zero on the 7 segment display. The 7 segment display will then go blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the Diagnostic button on a properly functioning System 3 - 6 MPU will cause both LEDs to flash twice in unison and then go off. If the bottom LED remains on, the game software is indicating a ROM failure. If the top LED remains on, the game software is indicating a RAM failure (6810). And if both LEDs remain on, the game software is indicating a CMOS RAM failure (5101). However, the accuracy of this test is questionable since the game software must be functioning properly for the test report to be valid and the game software requires ROM and RAM to function in the first place. The short advice is: don&#039;t rely on this diagnostic test result.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the Diagnostic button on a properly functioning System 7 MPU will cause the 7 segment display to flash a zero and then go blank. System 7 diagnostics are a bit more useful than prior Williams game systems but are still not 100% trustworthy. If the MPU built-in-test software detects a problem with the game hardware, the 7 segment display will remain on with an error code displayed. Possible error codes are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*0 - and then goes out...all tests passed&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - IC13 RAM or IC20 ROM failed&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - IC16 RAM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - IC17 ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - IC17 ROM failure (duplicated test...yes)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - IC20 ROM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - IC14 Game ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - IC26 Game ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*8 - IC19 (5101) RAM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
*9 - IC19 (5101 again) RAM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;To test displays, lamps, coils and switches for System 3 and 4 games, follow this procedure first, then proceed to the System 6-7 procedure below .&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Entering the familiar diagnostic mode of later game systems is a bit less intuitive with a System 3 or 4 game. To enter diagnostics, press the diagnostic button on the MPU once. This is the lower of the two buttons as pictured at left. Both LEDs should flash and all displays will go blank. At this point, the game is ready to accept new game settings like &amp;quot;balls per play&amp;quot; via the obtuse and ridiculous to use dip switches on the MPU. Skipping over the process that essentially amounts to &amp;quot;memory pokes&amp;quot; (who remembers that), the diagnostics can now be controlled from the front door switches. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is in the MANUAL position, pressing the ADVANCE button will cause each score display to show all zeros. The next press will show all ones, etc. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is in the AUTO position, pressing the ADVANCE button will cause the score displays to begin cycling, starting with all zeros, then all ones, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating System 3 and 4 game diagnostic entry can be found &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;[https://youtu.be/Bq7Bubb5X6w here]&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7CoinDoorSwitches.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3 - 7 Coin Door Switches]]&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;For System 6-7 games, follow this procedure to test displays, lamps, coils and switches.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the AUTO/MANUAL switch in the MANUAL position, press the ADVANCE button. This will cause each score display to show all zeros. Pressing the ADVANCE button again will display all ones, etc. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is moved to the AUTO position, the score displays will advance automatically through each of the digits (zero through 9). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the AUTO/MANUAL switch still in the AUTO position, press the ADVANCE button to advance to the next test. The match portion of the credit/match display will show &amp;quot;01&amp;quot; and all playfield lamps will begin to cycle on/off. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing ADVANCE again will display &amp;quot;02&amp;quot; in the match window, and the game will begin an ordered activation of each coil in sequence (including buzzers, flashers, etc). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing ADVANCE again will display &amp;quot;03&amp;quot; in the match window. This is &amp;quot;switch test&amp;quot; mode. If no switches are closed, the credit half of the credit/match window will be blank. Closing a switch will result in the switch number being displayed in the credit window. If more than one switch is closed when switch test begins, the number of each switch will be displayed once in the credit window. After that point, only closing a switch will cause it&#039;s number to be displayed. i.e. switch test does not cycle through all closed switches but instead displays ONLY the last switch closure detected (at least in System 3 games).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the ADVANCE button one more time displays &amp;quot;04&amp;quot; in the match window, and game status information is displayed in sequence, automatically for system 3 and 4 games and by pressing the advance button for system 6 and 7 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Quick Start: Repairing a Williams System 3-7 MPU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The procedure for repairing a Williams MPU is outlined below. More detail can be found later in this document.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace the power header at 1J2, which is located on the left side of the MPU. The cornerstone of a well running MPU is clean, consistent power. Tarnished connections, worn connections that have exceeded the mate cycle spec, and cracked header pin solder joints all negatively impact power.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If the OEM chip sockets are still on the board, replace them with quality twin leaf or machine pin sockets. Good chip sockets will ensure rock solid connections between the ICs and the various busses.  Always replace Scanbe and white Molex sockets - no exceptions!&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:OEMROMs.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The ROM on the right in this picture has obviously been heat stressed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Examine the 40-pin male connector closely. If it exhibits any of the following characteristics, replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
*Tarnished pins&lt;br /&gt;
*Corroded pins (due to batteries on the MPU leaking corrosive alkaline)&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured solder joints&lt;br /&gt;
*Solder joint “craters”, i.e. an attempt to “reflow” the solder joint that doesn’t adhere to the pin very well.  The solder surrounds the pins, but does not create a solid electrical connection to the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Verify the ROM contents. The OEM ROMs at least 30 years old, and have been subjected to thousands of hours of heat, consequently reducing their reliability. Replacing them with known good ROMs is a better option if possible.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Measure power coming onto the board at the filter capacitor. About 5VDC should be present, with very little AC component (measure AC too).&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Test socketed processors and PIAs in a known working board. AMI branded chips seem to experience a much higher failure rate than any other brand and are always suspect.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use a logic probe to test the processor reset signal at pin 40. The signal should start low at power on, then go high a split second later.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;With a schematic of the board handy, “sanity check” each pin on the processor to ensure each leg is doing something that makes sense. i.e. data lines D0-D7 should be pulsing.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Make certain the blanking signal goes high and remains high almost immediately after successful MPU boot. The blanking signal is easily tested at pin 37 of the 40-pin interconnect board.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Install Leon’s test ROM to verify processor, PIA, and memory operation.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Further Recommended Reliability Improvements===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace all headers. Reflowing solder does not create a solid mechanical or electrical connection.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace masked ROMs with new ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
#Update the MPU to use fewer sockets. i.e. use a 2716 (or double the image into a 2732) at IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the backup battery to a remote location or install NVRAM. Batteries should be removed from the MPU board as soon as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding System 3-6-like Diagnostic LEDs to a System 7 MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7DiagnosticLEDAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diagram depicting addition of 2 LEDs and 2 resistors that provide the same function as System 3-6 MPU boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7FactoryLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A System 7 MPU with factory installed diagnostic LEDs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 7 MPUs replaced the two diagnostic LEDs of past systems with a 7-Segment LED display to provide diagnostic indications. At times, the 7447 driver IC or the 7-segment LED display itself can fail. Or perhaps running system 3-6 software in the board, while retaining the LED diagnostic capability, is the objective. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rather than replacing the 7-Segment display or 7447, adding System 3-7-like LEDs to the MPU is easy. Procure 2 standard LEDs and two 1/4 watt resistors of any value between 100 ohms and 560 ohms. Incrementally higher ohm resistors will dim the LEDs incrementally, but can still be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Add two resistors on the right-most pads as pictured at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add two LEDs to the top two available pads as pictured at left, with the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; (the short leg or anode) oriented toward the 7-segment display. It&#039;s as easy as that.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Quick Start: Repairing a Williams System 3-7 Driver Board==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The detailed procedures for repairing a Williams driver board can be found later in this document.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace the 40-pin female interconnect. Due to fatigue and/or battery damage (alkaline corrosion), this connector can and will become unreliable over time.  Replace it.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Remove and reflow the solder on &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;*all*&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the header pin connectors.  Another choice is to replace the connectors with new ones.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace all suspect chip sockets. PIAs on the driver board were the only chips socketed from the factory on this board. However, the factory used crappy Scanbe sockets for these chips. If Scanbe sockets are present, replace them.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Inspect the PIA chips.  If AMI chips were used, suspect eventual, premature failure.  Replace if possible.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If the factory 3 watt current limiting resistors in the lamp matrix appear heat damaged, replace them with 27 ohm 5 watt resistors. &amp;quot;Sand&amp;quot; resistors are a good replacement choice.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If heavy heat damage is present in the vicinity of the lamp matrix power resistors, suspect potential failure of the lamp matrix ICs (IC13 &amp;amp; IC14) located just above the resistors.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing==&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes it is more beneficial to do testing / troubleshooting while the MPU and / or driver boards are outside of the game.  It&#039;s unfortunate, but the System 3-7 boards were designed in such a way that both the MPU and driver board have to be attached to one another for the MPU to effectively boot and function.  Since the driver board has no intelligence located on it, it needs to be connected to the MPU to be of any use.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 On Bench.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS System 6 MPU and Driver Board Powered by a PC Power Supply.  Power connections are attached to the readily available test points on the MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Bench Power.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS System 7 MPU and Driver Board Powered by a PC Power Supply.  Power connections are attached to IJ2 on the MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The voltages needed to power a System 3-7 board pair on the bench are +5v, +12v, and ground.  Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on 1J2 (only header connection on left side of MPU board).  The connections are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1-3 (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 4- 6  (+5 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 (+12 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If connecting a &#039;&#039;&#039;System 6 or 7 board pair&#039;&#039;&#039;, it is easier to connect to the test points.  The connections are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 1 (+12 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 9 (+5 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 10 (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that test points 9 and 10 have different locations between a System 6 and 7 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting a Logic Probe to the Williams System 3-7 MPU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3LogicProbeConnection.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Connecting a logic probe to a System 3-7 MPU. This picture is a System 3 MPU.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6LogicProbeConnection.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method to connect a logic probe on a System 6/6A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The easiest way to power the logic probe is across the input power&#039;s electrolytic filter cap, as shown on this Williams System 3 board at left.&lt;br /&gt;
All MPUs, including Systems 3, 4, 6, 6A, and 7, feature this cap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU and driver board logic are electrically connected and powered by the same source, connecting the probe to the MPU allows probing driver board logic also.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Connectors, connectors, connectors==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms cracked solder joints.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Cracked solder joints on the header pins of a Williams driver board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With this era of game, most of them 30+ years old now, and they will have problems with connectors. One of the most common issues is cracked solder joints on header pin connections to the PCBs. Some cracks are more obvious than others, while some can only be seen clearly under proper magnification.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms header solder removed.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Solder removed from the header pins of a Williams driver board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Although it can be somewhat time consuming and a tedious chore, it is best to remove the old solder from a header pin joint, and then add new, fresh solder. Performing this procedure is a necessity on these games to ensure reliability. The other option is removing the header pin connection completely, and replace with a new one.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game starts to reset for no reason during play, or when both flippers are engaged, it may be worth first re-pinning the connectors at 1J2 on the MPU Board and at the outputs from the PSU. This is always a good step even if it does not fix the immediate issue, as it avoids power problems later on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This will involves replacing the header pins on the PSU board and the female connectors on the cables. The pins are .156&amp;quot; and square pins are preferred, although round are still available. Use phosphor bronze. On the female side, crimp pins of the trifuricon type are best. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Second prize goes to reflowing solder to the back of the header pins, and just replacing the female IDC connectors with new ones. In that case rather than a crimper, the .156&amp;quot; &#039;punch-down&#039; tool &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;must&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; be used for this replacement to work correctly. If the correct tool is not used, the IDC housing and pins will be damaged, especially if a screwdriver or some other makeshift tool is used. After that, the wires just don&#039;t seat correctly and will not maintain proper contact. Always cut back to clean wire and punch down correctly to a new IDC connector, reusing an old one rarely works.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the connector is a .156&amp;quot; 9-way connector at 1J2. There is also a &#039;key&#039; pin where the hole is blanked off on the connectors and the pin cut off flush with the board. This prevents plugging the power in to say the switch matrix or swapping two connectors over. It&#039;s easiest to just buy a bag of these for blanking off the &#039;key&#039; positions, rather than try to re-use old ones.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Wiring Connector Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7BlownICs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Socketed and replaced ICs blown by incorrect connector hookup.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams made a poor wiring harness design decision with this series of games that allows the cabinet harness to be connected to the head harness (36 pin inline connectors). Mating these connectors incorrectly will short the 28V solenoid circuit to the logic voltage level circuit, destroying ICs on the MPU and perhaps the driver board. Always be sure to double check connector pin counts and colors, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;but most importantly,&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; wire colors going into and out of both sides of the connector. Connector color is not a 100% reliable indicator as Williams sometimes used white connectors, sometimes used black connectors for both, and sometimes may even have used one black and one white connector. Wire colors should always match up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A real world example on a System 7 Jungle Lord, pictured at left, resulted in MPU IC7 (7404), IC32 (7400), and IC12 (7408) being blown. The 5101 wasn&#039;t destroyed. On the driver board, IC16 (7406) was also damaged. The amount of damage can vary, however, other instances suggest a similar path of destruction. The best course of action should this occur is to spend a lot of time with a DMM in diode test, checking each individual IC. Socketed ICs, like the 5101 and the 6808/2 can be easily tested in a known working system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 7 MPU Board Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
Diagnostics, and the &#039;System 7 MPU Board won&#039;t boot&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Forget about getting anything at all on the Player Displays without having working ROMs in place and a good MPU board.  Blanking has to go &#039;high&#039; before the displays will work.  So coin door game diagnostics are useless until the MPU board runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But help is at hand on the System 7 MPU, Williams added a single 7 segment LED display to the board. To get anything at all on the 7 segment display LED on the MPU, these conditions must be met:&lt;br /&gt;
* The 74LS47 Display Driver IC34 to be working.&lt;br /&gt;
* The  6821 PIA (at IC18) on the MPU responsible for driving the score displays to be working.&lt;br /&gt;
* The logic +5v to be good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally when a properly functioning board boots, the 7 segment LED display will flash &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; briefly and then the display is turned off, and remains off. If within a game, the game would then be in attract mode if everything was perfect.  Pressing diagnostics should show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and then return to attract mode with the LED display blank.  [ed Note: Correct me if that is wrong]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the above-mentioned chips are installed and working and the sockets have been replaced or tested good:&lt;br /&gt;
* With no ROMs installed, a board with a fault or a ROM fault if they are installed, the &amp;quot;top two&amp;quot; LEDs (if there) would be lit and the LED display would show &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.  The MPU board is &#039;locked up&#039;, in that condition.&lt;br /&gt;
* Display Driver PIA IC PA4 - PA7 will be high.  Pressing the * Diagnostic switch will not change things.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then an OS is needed, which is the &#039;Flipper ROMs&#039; in pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
When they &#039;Boot&#039; (provide a set of instructions to the CPU)- even with the Game ROM removed, the fist thing they do is to &amp;quot;turn off&amp;quot; the LEDs 1+2 and so the onboard LED display (7447) would then go blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fact, &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; should flash once and go blank.  That means the board is not locked and at least booted the OS.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Installing a good Game ROM after that may provide access to the diagnostics if everything is working up to this point.  Pressing the diagnostic switch should then provide a (hopefully) valid indication of what component is stopping the (pinball or whatever) from running. Here are the key indications (for System 7, Sys 8&amp;amp;9 may be similar):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These results can appear with error conditions by using the Flipper and Game ROMs, or the 2532 WMS Test ROM in IC17 (on Sys 7 boards):&lt;br /&gt;
If all the support chips are good, and one &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; flash appears and then goes blank, then the on-board error display can be trusted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;&#039;Press the diagnostic button, the numbers are:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; |System 7 LED Diagnostics&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Meaning&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|0 || Test Passed (only if display goes blank)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || IC13 RAM Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || IC16 RAM Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || IC17 ROM 2 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || IC17 ROM 2 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || IC20 ROM I Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || IC14 Game ROM 1 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || IC26 Game ROM 0 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || IC19 CMOS RAM or memory protect circuit faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || Coin-door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or IC19 CMOS RAM Faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Getting a 0 and remaining on could potentially be that the CPU / board has not successfully reset.  In other words, no instructions have been passed to and from the CPU chip.  This problem could be due to a faulty reset circuit.  The lack of +12v on the MPU board can cause this too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Getting an 8 or 9 is *good* indication - it means the board is almost there!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some further tips about those conditions:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8  - MPU board may be good. Is it looking for the Driver Board?  (Like the missing 7th flash on a Bally MPU).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure the Driver Board is connected and the &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; interconnect has continuity on all pins.&lt;br /&gt;
From System 8 on there is no interconnect... so by System 9 MPU and Driverboard (and Sound!) are all one PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then suspect that IC19 RAM is faulty or finally a memory protect fault.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9 - First check for coin door closed (or pin 1J4-1 or 1J3-1 is being grounded), then is IC7 faulty? Finally is IC19 RAM faulty?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is displayed, it may be tempting to install it in a game, open the coin door, and try and boot up. But this is wrong, as there still is a problem on the board. Either the IC19 5101 CMOS Ram is faulty, or another memory protect component is faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remember to do the &amp;quot;switch on, off and back on again quick&amp;quot; trick to see attract mode appears when reinstalling in a game after taking an MPU out. Many times, that does the trick.  Also, if removing the Driver Board and reinserting it on the MPU board &#039;fixes&#039; the problems and the boards will then boot correctly, then it points to the &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; connector needing to be replaced.  Both header pins on the MPU and sockets on the Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Parts:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 7-Segment display can be replaced with a KINGBRIGHT  SA03-12HDB  LED  0.3&amp;quot;  RED  DISPLAY.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5101 CMOS RAM.  5101-1 The low power version is needed, as it needs battery backup to hold RAM contents when the game is powered off.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A 6821 PIA is a standard part. MC6821 MC68B21 are common.  The 6820 designation is much earlier but also works.  Other designations:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
xx6821, xx68A21, xx68B21, where xx can be MC (Motorola) or HD (Hitachi Data) will all work.  The &#039;A&#039; in 68A21 means the PIA will run at up to a 1.5Mhz Clock , the &#039;B&#039; in 68B21 means up to a 2Mhz clock, without any letter is up to 1MHz. Any final letter is Package type (P,S or L)  P=Plastic S=Cerdip and L=Ceramic.  Any of the above speeds or package types will work for this era of pinball, so the letters can be ignored and any 6820 or 6821 can be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Chip Sockets==&lt;br /&gt;
Reliable socket connections are a requirement for any printed circuit board to work as designed. Old sockets, as discussed below, should be replaced.  Use extreme care in desoldering the old sockets, the traces and pads on circuit boards are easily lifted, especially if any battery corrosion is in the area.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The chip sockets on old Williams boards (also most any board of this era) are long past their reliable lifetimes. They may work, but they may also cause intermittent connections that will have you chasing your tail tracking down odd problems with the game. Like the 40-pin interconnect used in Williams System 3-7 games, these sockets should always be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Perhaps the most maligned socket brand, and rightfully so, is the Scanbe brand. In the picture below, it can be seen why. These 30+ year old sockets passed the point of reliability many years ago. Included in the Scanbe socket picture below are two pins pulled from a Scanbe socket. The pins were designed to grip the SIDES of the IC legs, unlike the design of modern sockets that grip the front and back faces of the IC leg. Get rid of them now.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later, WMS switched to sockets made by Augat or Raychem (all Tyco now). They occasionally go bad, but they can usually be left alone. But there is another type made by Molex which should also be replaced if it is found on a PCB. When looking at the picture below, it can be seen why. Curvy isn&#039;t it? And the contacts break easily too. Not as bad as the Scanbe but not much better either.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=5 caption=&amp;quot;Poor quality and old sockets found on many early pinball machine circuit boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Speech Scanbe Socket.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;It&#039;s hard to believe that these sockets ever worked.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Scanbe Removal.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A Scanbe socket being removed from circuit board by gently prying it up.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ScanbeSocket.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Closeup of the infamous &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; brand socket. &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; is molded into the top of the socket face.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ScanBeSocketPins.jpg ‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Closeup of &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; socket pins. Surface contact area was small from the factory.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSMolexSocket.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Another bad socket type usually found in system 7 pcbs. This one was made by Molex.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Voltages==&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board needs two voltages to boot: +12v which only the MPU uses for the reset circuit, and +5v (logic power) for the MPU and Driverboard IC chips.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game goes dead, but the sound board continues to work then there may be a fault with the PSU, power connections to the MPU, blanking or the reset circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for sounds by pressing the sound board diagnostic test.  The game will need to bed switched off &amp;amp; back on to cancel the looping sound test.  The sound board has its own PSU.  It takes 18v AC directly from the transformer and makes +12v (reset) +5v ( logic) and also -12v (Speech and  mixers). It&#039;s probably OK to assume the +5v and +12v going to the MPU (and Driver Board) are OK from the PSU if the sound board boots and runs.  It&#039;s like a mini MPU, with the same CPU and one PIA chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main PSU board only needs to make the first two, +12v and +5v (no -12v) for the MPU and Driver board.  But it also generates DC power for the flippers and the solenoids (+28v DC or so).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Power Supply Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
The key thing to remember is that the PSU board is made up of separate output circuits combined on one board.  They don&#039;t interact, and are in order:  &lt;br /&gt;
* +18v for Lamps,&lt;br /&gt;
* +28v Solenoids (and Flippers), &lt;br /&gt;
* Regulated +5v for logic B+ and an unregulated +12v for CPU reset, &lt;br /&gt;
* +/- 100v HV supply for the Displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We&#039;re not counting the G.I. (General Illumination) circuit as it is AC only and is fused on the fuse card below the PSU.  It only passes through the PSU board to be fused and controlled with a relay starting from System 7 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Input AC power gets to the PSU board directly from the transformer for the +5v/+12v and the display voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
However, in the case of the Lamp and Solenoid voltages AC is &#039;full wave&#039; rectified (to DC) &#039;&#039;before reaching the PSU board&#039;&#039;.  This is done using two Bridge Rectifiers BR1 for Lamps (to the Right of the backbox) and BR2 for Solenoids and Flippers (to the Left of the backbox).&lt;br /&gt;
  &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lamp Voltage Supplies:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* The  +18v DC Lamp voltage passes through a very large &#039;blue can&#039; filter capacitor between the BR and the PSU board.  This  &#039;smooths out the &#039;bumps&#039; (called AC ripple ) in the DC waveform.  &lt;br /&gt;
** Because the MPU Controlled Lamps (for the inserts) are strobed by the Lamp Matrix, the resultant voltage to the bulbs is &amp;quot;averaged down&amp;quot; to about 6v DC.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Lamps are rated at 6.3v and 250mA for #44 Bulbs (so 1/4 Amp) or 150mA for #47 Bulbs (about 1/7 of an Amp).  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Because they use less power, #47 bulbs will generate less heat.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Replace any shiny &#039;silvered&#039; bulbs and any that say 0.3A as they burn way too hot and will ruin inserts and cause paint to flake on your backglass!&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; This has nothing to do with the G.I. (General Illumination circuit) which is fused on a fuse card and reaches to G.I. bulbs as about 6.3v AC.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** As they (almost) always stay lit, the G.I. bulbs tend to last longer running on an AC voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The AC is &#039;Tee-d&#039; off to the cabinet, playfield and the insert board (for the backglass lighting).&lt;br /&gt;
*** Wire colors for G.I. (and must be measured as AC) are Yellow and Yellow/White.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Flipper and Solenoid Voltage Supplies:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* The +28v DC Solenoid voltage passes straight through to the PSU where it is fused before leaving on the way to the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
** There are some additional components (a varistor and some filter capacitors) on the PSU board for the Solenoid/Flipper power.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Connectors on the PSU Board&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* All AC voltages come into the PSU board in the large 12-way connector 3J1, while the black ground wires are on the 6-way 3J2.  &lt;br /&gt;
**The fused &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;AC and DC&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; voltages exit on the larger of the &#039;D&#039; shaped connectors, while the black Lamp and solenoid ground wires exit on the smaller of the &#039;D&#039; connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;+5v Logic and +12v Unregulated Supplies:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*In the case of the +12v (and +5v a logic power), the AC comes into the PSU board at 3J1-10 11&amp;amp;12 directly from the transformer windings.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can measure about 10v AC in at the bottom of the diodes D7 and D8 with respect to the board&#039;s ground.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The total AC input is 18.6v, so each diode &#039;sees&#039; 9.3v because the transformer winding &#039;center tap&#039; at 3J1-12 is grounded.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** D7 connects to 3J1-10, and D8 to 3J1-11 and you would trace connections from there back to the transformer.&lt;br /&gt;
*** If you measure AC across the bottom of these two diodes you should see the full 18.6v AC.&lt;br /&gt;
*** Do not worry if this AC value is higher without a load, it can (and will) vary with changes in line voltages.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Values over 20v AC are considered normal without a load.  &#039;&#039;It&#039;s a &#039;schoolboy error&#039; to chase the voltages of unregulated supplies trying to get them to be exact.&#039;&#039;  This includes the AC input and +12v DC unregulated supply.&lt;br /&gt;
** The two large diodes at D7/D8 rectify the voltage to around +12v DC, again this is unregulated.&lt;br /&gt;
*** It is filtered by a large capacitor (12,000 uF or higher) to smooth out the AC ripple.&lt;br /&gt;
*** It is fused at 4A Slo-Blow, before exiting at 3J6-6 as the +12v DC for the reset circuit on the MPU Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* To generate the regulated +5v logic supply&lt;br /&gt;
** The +12v input is filtered more by capacitor C16 and then passed through X3 which is a +5v voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
** This exits at 3J5-6 as exactly +5v for the Master Display Board ICs and at 3J6-7 to 3J6-10 for the other +5v supplies (MPU and Driver Boards).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Please note that the Sound Board generates its own +12v and regulated +5v supplies for both Sound and Speech Boards.  This is discussed in the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Sound_.2F_Speech_Board_Issues | Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board Repair]] Section.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===General Illumination Connection Design Flaws===&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with System 7 games, the general illumination passed through the power supply.  This was done to turn the general illumination off (for effect) via a newly added relay on the power supply board.  Unfortunately, Williams did not spec connections which could properly handle the current used for the general illumination.  The end result was connections, whether it be housings or header pins, which became hot and / or burnt.  As the connections tarnish, resistance increases, and the connections become hotter. The cycle continues until an inline fuse blows, or in most cases, discontinuity in the circuit occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only option is to purchase the proper Molex housing and pins and replace both the male and female connections.  Replacing one side but not the other is futile.  The issue will reoccur at a much faster rate than replacing both sides. Another preventative measure is to reduce the amount of current draw by replacing the lamps with LEDs.  LEDs draw less current than 44, 47, and 555 bulbs, and the GI connections become less of an issue in the future when LEDs are installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU===&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a document for troubleshooting and repair of the Williams System 3-6 [[Media:PSU-Display-PWR.pdf|PSU Board Display Power]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An attempt was made to create step by step tests so that reading a schematic is not required.  Includes replacement parts for the HV section repairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the 1/4A (0.25A) fuse at F1 always blows on power up, you may have a shorted UDN IC chip on the Master Display Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
See this section on [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Master_Display_Drivers_for_System_3_to_6 |Sys 3-6 Master Display Drivers]] for testing all the UDN chips on the display board.  You can use these tests for both UDN7180 and UDN6118 (or UDN6184) IC&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Try removing the master display power connectors.  If that stops the F1 fuse from blowing, suspect the Master Display Driver needs repairs before you rebuild the HV section of the PSU.  Test the HV outputs of the PSU without any displays connected and see if the proper voltages are being generated from the PSU without a load.  You need +5v logic, +100v and -100v supplies to run the Master Display board correctly.  This will let you figure out if you need to rebuild the Master Display, the HV section on the PSU Board or both.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;From experience, if components on the PSU Board HV section are stressed, it is best to go ahead and rebuild the entire HV section replacing all components with new parts from a $10 kit.  It will save you time!&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===PSU Parts Suppliers===&lt;br /&gt;
Check with:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-29.asp Ed at GPE] has HV rebuild kits and most parts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://lockwhenlit.com/Products.aspx Rob Anthony&#039;s LockWhenLit] (Borygard from RGP) may also have some PSU parts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.bobramstad.com/pinball/sys6ps.html Bob&#039;s PSU parts list] shows the Mouser part numbers which is useful if you live in the USA, or just want to order a few items for your PSU repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also check with your favorite electronics supplier.  Please be aware that NTE replacement parts may have wide tolerances so they will be compatible with a greater number of original parts. So get the correct replacement parts wherever possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===PSU Diagrams and Resources===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Please refer to these files while using this section to diagnose and repair your PSU Board:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:11-powerwiring-sys4-6.pdf|Williams System 3-6 Power Wiring Diagram]] showing the wiring from your AC mains plug right through to the connection to the PSU board, Sound Board and the G.I.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:07-powerlogic-sys3-6.pdf|Williams 3-6 PSU Logic Diagram]].  A PSU Board Schematic for System 3-6 games, containing test points with approximate voltages and help with fault finding your game&#039;s power.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Troubleshooting and repair of the Williams System 3-6 [[Media:PSU-Display-PWR.pdf|PSU Board HV Display Section]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* External link to a PDF of [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Downloads/W3-11_HV_Kit.pdf WMS HV parts and instructions] from Ed at GPE, a great place to get your HV repair kits. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources to visit&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Except for the possible use of different transistors for Q1 and Q3 the later System 9-11 HV section is very similar in design.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_9_-_11#Display_problems |Sys 9-11 Master Display Driver Problems]], for more detail before starting your repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Missing PSU Upgrade Sections to add&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Testing the AC in and DC out for all sections, including the Solenoid and Lamp BRs.  Simple to do, but should it be spelled out? &lt;br /&gt;
* How to fit the replacement transistors with the &#039;twisted legs&#039; as the SDS-201 and SDS-202 are obsolete.  Although a diagram is on the GPE PDF for Ed&#039;s HV kit, some shrink wrap tubing could be added to the &#039;lowest leg&#039; to reduce failures.&lt;br /&gt;
* How to fit the 2 x 1n4763a 91v zenerDiodes, at locations Z2 &amp;amp; Z4 to reduce the Display out put to about+/-90v under load and extend display life.&lt;br /&gt;
* Repin of Headers at 3J1 and the used pins at 3J2, theory for using crimped trifuricon connectors and new housings which replace the existing female IDC connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
...etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==The MPU Reset Circuit==&lt;br /&gt;
The +12v for reset goes into a circuit that waits (for about a 1 sec. delay) for the +5v to stabilize before it lets the CPU boot. If the +12v (or output from the reset circuit) drops, the reset halts the CPU, PIA(s) and the 5101 CMOS RAM chips before the +5v to them dies. A shutdown of the CPU will also pull blanking low and halt solenoids, lamps and displays to protect them from further damage (coils firing, memory glitching) during the power down. So spikes or drops to the +12v line may halt the CPU at the wrong time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An MPU unable to boot may mean that its reset circuit is faulty.  A +12v line comes in from the PSU board to the MPU on pin 9 of 1J2. That&#039;s the top pin on the top left (and only connector on the left) of the MPU board.  +12v can also be measured at TP1 on a System 6, 6a, or 7 MPU.  Don’t get hung  up on it being exactly +12v, as it&#039;s not regulated.  However, it can’t drop too much lower than +11.5v, or the reset circuit &#039;&#039;&#039;may&#039;&#039;&#039; have a problem generating enough voltage to keep reset “up” to the CPU.  But +11.5v to +14v is not unusual and will still work.  A fluctuating reset can cause the game to reboot during a game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The state of the reset (high or low) can be observed at pin 40 of the 6808 or 6802 CPU chip.  Likewise, the reset can be observed at TP8 on System 6, 6a, and 7 MPU boards.  TP8 is located just to the right of IC19 (5101 memory) on a System 6 or 6a board, and the far right test point on the bottom of the MPU just above the 40-way connector on a System 7 MPU board.  It will be marked as TP8 on the PCB mask. For System 3, 4, 4a MPU boards, the reset will have to be measured at pin 40 of the 6800 CPU board.  When booting the game and watching reset, it stays low for a heartbeat after power on and then rises to +5v.  +4.75v or around that is fine.  Don&#039;t get hung up too much on the voltages being exact for the reset circuit either.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the +12v appears OK when measured, and the sound board is always booting and working, it&#039;s safe to assume that +12v at the PSU is stable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A good trick to &#039;inject&#039; a reset, is to try connecting +5v for a second or two to the reset test point at TP8 or the leg of the CPU chip (pin 40).  If the CPU boots (reset must be a logic high now on pin 40 of IC1), then the reset section will need to be rebuilt..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So that involves running a jumper lead from TP8 and &#039;&#039;&#039;briefly&#039;&#039;&#039; touching TP9 (+5v). TP9 is located just to the bottom right of the battery holder on a System 6 or 6a MPU board, while it is at the top right the battery holder on a System 7 board. The battery holder should have been removed, so the test point is located in the vicinity of where the original holder &#039;&#039;&#039;used to be&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Repairing the Reset Circuit &#039;Divide and Conquer&#039;===&lt;br /&gt;
Assuming that the game boots and works if the CPU reset pin is held high, how can it be determined what is wrong?  One solution is the shotgun method: just start changing transistors and components until it is fixed. However, this wastes time and parts. A better way is to narrow down the fault location using the &#039;injection&#039; trick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reset circuit is easily seen as two halves. For a System 7 MPU board, +5v can be applied directly to the top of resistor R12.  If the board boots and stays stable, then that indicates the problem is on the &#039;right hand&#039; side of the circuit. (On System 6, the same thing can be done, but using R32.  This method helps narrow down the faulty components by a half.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Assuming that the +12v getting to MPU board is good, if the above injection of 5v doesn&#039;t work, measure where the voltage disappears on the left hand side of the reset circuit.  Then replace parts on that side, checking for a good reset when the board boots each time. Remember that for System 6 and 7, there are just 12 active components that make up the reset circuit, and 8 of those are transistors.  Those are usually the source of the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step One===&lt;br /&gt;
The Right Hand Side.&lt;br /&gt;
Start by replacing transistors Q6 – Q9 (all 2n4401 NPN) get 10 or more of them, they’re cheap to buy and they are commonly used. They are used as pre-drivers for the solenoid power transistors on the driver boards for System 3-7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Test the board for the previous booting problem.  If they are still there, replace the two zener diodes:  ZR1 is a 6.8v Zener (1n5996) and ZR2 is a 3.9v Zener (1n5990) - you can&#039;t replace these components with anything else to my knowledge.  These are critical values.  And put the orientation of the band of the diode the same way as the ones that are removed. Taking a photo of how the circuit in the top left of the board looked before making any changes is a good idea.  Or, only replace components one at a time.  A test boot could be done on the bench each time something is replaced, but that may slow things down. On the other hand, this may result in avoiding replacing more components than necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It should be booting now, if not attack the other half.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step Two===&lt;br /&gt;
The Left Hand Side.&lt;br /&gt;
Start by replacing transistor Q2.  Q2 is a 2n4403 PNP transistor, cheap as well but you won’t need as many for pinball repairs.  then replace Q3-Q5 with the 2n4401 &#039;s like before.  I would replace D19 (a 1n4148 fast switching diode) you could test it with the diode setting of your DMM, but I don&#039;t trust testing diodes in circuit, and if I’m soldering in that section, I just cut it out and replace it. Cost will be pennies, and most pinball people should have new ones on hand. Again, be sure and notice the direction of the band on the old diode, and put the new one back the same way.  Same thing goes for the orientation of the flat side of the transistors.  Don’t get them wrong when replacing.  The last component to replace would be the capacitor at C27 (10 uF @10v is the original part –look on the side of the cap).  Replace it with a tantalum 10 uF @ 16v, if you can find it.  You can go up in voltage even to 20v or more, but don’t change the value of the capacitance.  Note that some caps have markings showing a (-) side, usually running down the side of the capacitor.  If it shows a polarity, the (-) side of C27 points down on the PCB, towards the 40-way interconnect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step Three, Hopefully Reset is Back Up===&lt;br /&gt;
That’s it.  Usually fixed at step one, and down to one (or more) of those transistors.  I have seen a zener or the 1n4148 diode at D19 be the problem before.  But for me, the cap C27 has always been good.  If all else fails, test the capacitor for a dead short with the power off and replace it with a 10uF electrolytic if it is shorted to ground or you aren&#039;t sure it&#039;s working.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit (System 6 and 6a)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Reset Stock.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Williams System 6 MPU board stock reset circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 MPU Reset Gen.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 6a MPU board reset circuit with an MCP130-460GI/TO reset generator installed. Note that ZR1 has not yet been removed in this image]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on System 6 and 6a MPU boards.  A reset generator can be installed.  To do so, some components will need to be removed and two jumpers installed.  The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following transistors - Q4 and Q6&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R43, R38, R39, R41, and R42&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove zener diode ZR1.  This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP130-460GI/TO where Q4 was (green highlighted area in image).  Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q4 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q4).  In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the top pad and bottom pad of where R39 was (yellow highlighted area in pic).  Essentially, replace R39 with a zero ohm jumper. &lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the top pad of R42 and the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; collector pad (top pad) where Q6 was installed (orange highlighted area in pic).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired.  Please consult the System 6 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed.  The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460GI%2FTO Great Plains Electronics].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6_Reset_Gen-Pullup.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 6A MPU board reset circuit with an MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator installed with a pull-up resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Alternately, an MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be used, except a 4.7K 1/4 watt pull-up resistor will have to be added to the reset signal line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following transistors - Q4 and Q6&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R43, R38, R39, R41, and R42&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove zener diode ZR1.  This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO where Q4 was.  Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q4 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q4).  In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the bottom pad of where R38 and R39 formerly were. &lt;br /&gt;
#Add a 47k 1/4w resistor between the top pad of where R38 was and the bottom pad of where R41 was.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit (System 7)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Reset Components Remove.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Components to remove from a Williams System 7 MPU board reset circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Reset New Components.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 7 MPU board reset circuit with a reset generator installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like the System 6 and 6a MPU boards, a reset generator can be installed on a System 7 board. Some components will need to be removed, a single jumper installed, along with a 4.7k ohm resistor installed.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove Q2 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R27, R24, R31, R25, R29, and R30 (resistor located to the right of Q2)&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove zener diode ZR1. This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO where Q2 was (this is the same reset generator as used on Data East MPUs). Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q2 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q2). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the bottom pads where R27 and R24 formerly were.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a 4.7K ohm 1/4 watt resistor in place of R25.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7ResetSection.jpg ‎|left|thumb|300px|All components of the reset section have been scraped except those required to use the MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator (marked with gold Sharpie). In this picture, the 74125 stuffed at the factory has been removed as it&#039;s original function was to read the DIP switches. System 7 games do not read the DIP switches.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU will no longer need the +12VDC to successfully boot. The remaining components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired as pictured at left. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP120-460GI%2FTO Great Plains Electronics].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; if using the MCP130 variety of reset generators, the 4.7K ohm resistor does not need to be installed as they incorporate the resistor internally.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Reset Circuit Summary===&lt;br /&gt;
Connectors were mentioned above for completeness.  While I agree a good 40-way connector is essential for correct operation of this era of games, changing the  Bridge Rectifiers in the backbox or rebuilding connectors probably won&#039;t help fix the reset circuit .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That because the &#039;&#039;&#039;BR&#039;s are only for the Lamps and Solenoids&#039;&#039;&#039; and won&#039;t fix a problem with the MPU power (or reset) as that is sourced directly from the PSU.  The +5v logic power comes from a regulator on the PSU board, and the +5v for the reset pins of the MPU ICs is created on the MPU from the +12v unregulated supply. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are looking here because game resets (reboots to attract mode or locks up) when flipping the flippers, it makes sense to check and rebuild the solenoid power circuit as well.  That is the flipper power on games prior to System 7 when 50v flippers and a Flipper Power Board was introduced.  You should also read the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC_5VDC_Power_Derivation_Path WPC section], while the games only similar- the approach for resets caused by power fluctuations is sound.  It takes you from the &#039;AC mains&#039; wall plug right through to the power needed on the boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Topics such as electrolytic capacitors aging and drying out, testing the Bridge Rectifiers and checking and tweaking the LM323K 5V regulator on the Power Baord will all be the same or very similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==The Blanking Circuit==&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking circuit is used by the MPU to prevent damage to the game when the MPU can not determine that the game is in a valid state. A low blanking signal means that the MPU isn&#039;t operating properly and the blanking circuitry is &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; (turning off) the lamps and displays. A high blanking signal means that the MPU is operating normally, allowing lamps and displays to function normally. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the driver board, the blanking signal is logically ANDed, by 7408s, with the enable signal for all 8 of the lamp strobes and the first 16 solenoids.  The 6 special solenoid enable signals are not ANDed with the blanking signal.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the MPU, the blanking signal for the displays leaves the board via connector IJ3 pin 4 (top left connector on board).  For the driver board blanking signal, it leaves the MPU board at pin 37 of the 40-pin interconnect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A special note: the blanking signal will only go high when the MPU and driver board are connected.  It will not go high if testing with a stand alone MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7BlankingLED.jpg|thumb|400px|left|A &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; LED added to a Williams System 3-7 Driver Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Adding an LED as shown in the image will let you easily monitor the Blanking state while troubleshooting. Note that the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED faces away from the 40-way connector and is on the same side as the shorter lead. The “current limiting” 150 ohm resistor is soldered to the ground trace.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the System 6/6A MPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6MPUBlanking.jpg | thumb | right| 400px| A blanking signal indication can be added to a System 6 MPU quite easily.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the TP4 test stud. This is the blanking stud.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the &amp;quot;non flat side&amp;quot; of the LED into the open hole.&lt;br /&gt;
#The &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED is oriented up, or toward the top of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder a 150 ohm (or so) resistor between the flat side lead and ground trace that has a zero ohm resistor soldered to it.&lt;br /&gt;
#All done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the System 7 MPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
A blanking signal indication can be added to a System 7 MPU can be done in at least two very clean ways.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When the LED is lit, the blanking signal is high, indicating a properly functioning MPU.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Option 1 ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Implementing this modification assumes that the battery holder trace is no longer in use!&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Blanking test point stud (numbered &amp;quot;4&amp;quot;). Since we are adding a blanking indication LED, the stud is no longer required.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install an LED, with the flat side pointing toward the former location of the battery holder and the other leg through the hole created by removal of the blanking TP stud.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the LED lead through the former battery holder hole and solder.&lt;br /&gt;
#Form a 150 ohm 1/4W resistor between the appropriate battery holder hole and the fat ground trace along the perimeter of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Scrape the solder mask from the board, enabling the resistor to be soldered to the ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder both ends of the resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a label to indicate the meaning of the LED; lit means blanking is on and the MPU is working properly; unlit means blanking is off and there is a problem with the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=480px heights=480px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Option 1: Adding a Blanking Signal Indication to a System 7 MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7BlankingLEDFront.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;An LED replaced the Blanking test point stud, flat side pointing toward the battery holder hole.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7BlankingLEDBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;The back of the System 7 MPU, showing connections of the LED, repurposed battery holder trace, and 150 ohm resistor connection.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Option 2 ====&lt;br /&gt;
This method does not require the battery holder to be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Clean the original solder from the lower of the 4 &amp;quot;paired&amp;quot; solder pads and the &amp;quot;via&amp;quot; pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install an LED, with the flat side oriented as indicated by the silkscreen&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, connect a 150 ohm 1/4W resistor to the LED lead on the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the other end of the resistor to the large ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the &amp;quot;non flat side&amp;quot; lead of the LED so that it can pass through the via hole and solder securely. This connects the LED to the blanking signal.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, sever the trace shown in the image below that runs NorthEast from the LED (trace severed at gold dot using a Dremel tool and ball cutter bit).&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a label to indicate the meaning of the LED; lit means blanking is on and the MPU is working properly; unlit means blanking is off and there is a problem with the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=480px heights=480px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Option 2: Adding a Blanking Signal Indication to a System 7 MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S7BlankingFront.jpeg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;An LED added to available solder pads, flat side pointing in the same direction as indicated on the silkscreen.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S7BlankingBack.jpeg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;The back of the System 7 MPU, showing connections between the LED, a 150 ohm resistor connected to ground, and the &amp;quot;non-flat-side&amp;quot; lead of the LED connected to the blanking signal.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Blanking Circuit Stuck Low===&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking circuitry that appears on Williams 3-7 MPU boards remained the same across all generations of Williams MPUs, all the way through the System 11 board set. Data East copied the same blanking circuitry too!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will send data to the display 6821 PIA at IC18 at regular intervals. &lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 at IC18 to periodically pulse.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at IC7, in at pin 5, out at pin 6.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C32 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q5 and to pin 8 of the 556 timer at IC23.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 556 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at IC18, the output of the 556 timer at pin 9 (and 13) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Upon a successful boot of the MPU board, the blanking will go from a low signal to a high signal, and remain high (no pulsing) as long as there are no issues. If the blanking signal does not go high, the system has not and will not boot.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the most common issues for a blanking signal to remain low is discontinuity between the MPU board and the driver board.  The blanking signal passes via the 40-pin interconnect at pin 37 (4th pin in from the left side).  Poor connections due to fatigue or seeping battery damage can cause a break in this connection.  It is best to replace both the male and female sides of the 40-pin interconnect to ensure that all is well.  Remember, the blanking will not go high, if the MPU is not connected to the driver board.  A flaky connection with discontinuity between boards is the same as if they&#039;re not connected.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 MPU Ground IC5.JPG|left|thumb|300px|A System 6 MPU board with the upper right battery holder through-hole circled, along with the ground trace and the 74LS02 labeled.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A special note about System 6 &amp;amp; 6A MPU boards.  The upper right through-hole for the battery holder passes the ground from the solder side of the board to the IC5 (74LS02) chip.  This through-hole can become compromised from battery corrosion or the careless removal of the battery holder.  If there is a break between the two sides of the board, ground will not be connected to IC5, and the chip will not function.  If this occurs, the blanking signal will never go high, and the board will not boot.  Just check for continuity between pin7 of IC24, the top right leg of chip shown and TP10, the bottom post on the right of picture. You may have to add a ‘stitch wire’ soldered to the top &amp;amp; bottom of the board going through the hole indicated.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys7_Blanking.JPG|left|thumb|300px|System 7 MPU board blanking signal trace]]&lt;br /&gt;
A special note about System 7 MPU boards.  The trace for the blanking signal is very fragile.  If the batteries have leaked on the board, or leached under the 40-pin header pins, make certain that the trace which carries the blanking signal has not been broken.  The break most commonly occurs at the junction of the trace and the component side of the through-hole pad for the header pin on the MPU board.  A continuity test can be performed to determine if the trace has been compromised.  Place one lead of the ohmmeter on TP4 and the other on pin 37 of the 40-pin header.  Also, keep the lead on TP4, and place the other on the 12th pad up on the far right of the board.  The header pin connector will have to be removed to inspect this junction, should there be a break.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Blanking Circuit Strobing===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a peculiar instance where the blanking circuit will be strobing.  The end result is erratic behavior from the displays and lamps (both the lamps and displays will be very dim if at all visible during attract mode).  The prime source of this issue is due to the C31 capacitor (1.0uF 25v axial tantalum) falling out of spec.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Driver Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The &amp;quot;Once Dreaded&amp;quot; 40-pin Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board mates with the MPU board using 40 x 0.156&amp;quot; extra long header pins on the MPU and female &#039;bottom entry&#039; Molex sockets on the driver board. Common belief is that these connectors are good for about 25 reliable connects and removals. While there may be disagreement with this number, the fact remains that the connector is good for a limited number of uses before the connection degrades. At that time, the connector must be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connectors between System 3-7 MPU and driver boards were/are a continual source of problems for this era of Williams machines. However, the issue was eliminated with the release of System 8, (and the more common System 9 platform), when the MPU board and driver board were merged together into a single board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the header pins on the MPU board aren&#039;t tarnished, burned, or previously sanded, you may be able to get away with re-flowing the solder on these pins following these steps.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heat up the pad, add a little new solder&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove all the solder you can (the old and new) with a solder sucker&lt;br /&gt;
* Add fresh solder back to get a nice flow around each pin&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms drvr interconnect.JPG|left|thumb|300px|The 40 pin female connector on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
Then, replace all the female connectors on the driver board.  Even if the driver board side pins look good, replace them.  Simple cleaning of the pins with a contact cleaner or burnishing them are not viable solutions. The bottom feed pins loose tensile strength over time, which degrades the connection between the MPU and driver board as they age. The picture at left illustrates the 40 pin female bottom feed connectors on the driver board. It should be noted that the connector in the picture is an extreme example of poor condition connections. Missing and alkaline damaged pins, connectors from position 17-40 on the left, are not the norm. Connections from position 1-16 on the far right are more commonly seen.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect Back.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Installing a new 40 pin female connector on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect Front Done.JPG|right|thumb|300px|A new 40 pin female connector installed on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
If using four 10 pin female connectors, (the originals on the driver board were five 8 pin), here&#039;s a little trick to keep them lined up nicely when soldering them.  Take the old 8 pin male header pin connectors, which were installed on the MPU board.  Install three of the 8 pin headers on the back side of the driver board and into the new female connectors (see picture to the left).  If any of the older header pin sections have battery corrosion on them, do not use use them for this.  Allow enough space between the connectors so some of the female connector leads can be soldered.  Solder all of the exposed leads on the female connector.  Once they are soldered in place, remove the male headers, and solder the remaining leads on the female connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Male40PinHeaders.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Fresh male headers installed on this System 6 MPU. Nice. Note the new headers are 10 pins long while the original headers were 8 pins long.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts for the MPU are:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Square .156&amp;quot; header pins. These can be found at Great Plains Electronics [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2420-10-2260 here]. Alternatively, Molex brand longer pins, part number 26-48-1080, can be used. Both of these options meet the length requirement for the pins to be at least 0.629&amp;quot; or 16mm length.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts for the Driver board are:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*10-way 0.156&amp;quot; Bottom Entry Female Molex Part Number: 09-52-3102 (4 needed per board). The original part, 5A-9066 8-way .156&amp;quot; Female Molex Part Number: 09-52-3082 (5 needed per board). Alternates are Molex 09-62-6104 and 09-52-3102 which are hard to obtain.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check with: &lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-82.asp Ed at GPE] or your favorite supplier for these.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:UsingFemaleHeadersToAlignMaleHeaders.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Female housings being used to align the male headers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A trick similar to the method aligning the female housings can be used to align the male headers. Use the old (or new one housings) to align the male headers as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no substitute for doing this correctly, other than buying reproduction boards. A solution is a board made by Rottendog Amusements, where the MPU and driver board are [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 combined into one board].  Cost is anywhere from $350 - $400.  Another option is purchasing both the [http://www.pinballpcb.com/System3-7MainBoard.html MPU] and [http://www.pinballpcb.com/System3-7DriverBoard.html driver board] from Kohout Enterprises for $425.  When both boards are purchased, they can be tied together via an auxiliary ribbon cable.  Of course they can be connected via the 40-pin interconnect too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If doing it yourself, repairs on the MPU and driver board connectors can cost up to $30 or less in parts (header pins, sockets and solder), along with several hours to replace the connectors and pins correctly.  This of course depends on your level of soldering skills and the value you put on your time. It&#039;s a fairly long job but it&#039;s likely that it only needs to be done once.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Display Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
===Every-Other Digit Shown On All Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem3-6EveryOtherDigitOut.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|Half of the digits, or every-other digit, are missing on all displays. Unintuitively, the root cause of this failure is the lamp matrix 6821 PIA at IC10 on the driver board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This failure seems to occur quite frequently and perplexes most techs. While the 6821 in the MPU display interface circuitry would seem to be the logical culprit, it is the lamp matrix PIA on the driver board that is the actual villain. The issue shown at left was remedied by replacing PIA III (also known as IC10), the lamp matrix drive PIA, which is the middle PIA on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating this failure, and the correction, can be found [https://youtu.be/ckwoW_xuQSM &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Every-Other Digit Dim On All Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EveryOtherDigitDim.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|Half of the digits, or every-other digit, are dimly displayed. This behavior was caused by a failed 4020 IC25.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This rare failure is caused by the 4020 at IC25 (on a System 7 MPU) failing such that either pin 12, 13, or 14 is &amp;quot;dead&amp;quot;. In this case, display interrupts occur too rapidly, and the 6800/6802 can&#039;t service those interrupts quickly enough to properly render display data.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating this failure, and the correction, can be found [https://youtu.be/_qOhzzwpbu0 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Repairing the Master Display Driver===&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the detail here is for System 3 - 6a with 6-digit displays only.  So it does not include Alien Poker or Algar, which both used the System 7 type display setup.  System 7-9 used a smaller Master Display Board located on the back of the lamp board, and it had IDC type ribbon cables that ran to the 4 player 7-digit displays.  They added a 4-digit Credit/Match display which also used a ribbon cable. The harness connecting the backbox (PSU and MPU) signals to the Master board used the same &#039;edge-connector&#039; as System 3-6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===First, a High Voltage &#039;&#039;&#039;***Warning***&#039;&#039;&#039;===&lt;br /&gt;
With the game on you are dealing with +100 and -100v HV DC (High Voltage) going to the displays. That&#039;s a potential 200v difference and you only need to feel that once to know it.  Wear tennis shoes (trainers or any rubber soled shoe) when working on displays with the backbox open.  This is a shock hazard!  If you are not capable or happy with measuring these voltages with a steady hand, then get someone else to help you and be there to &#039;spot&#039; you.   Always a good idea and more fun than working on your own.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another useful tip is to remove Fuse F1 from the PSU (Power Supply Board). This is the HV fuse and is 1/4A Slo-Blow (250mA &#039;T&#039; fuse in Europe).  This will allow the logic (BCD binary decoders and Buffer ICs) to be troubleshooted with a DMM or Logic Probe without the danger of shocks or shorting them out when measuring TTL (logic) voltages. It may also save the logic probe from a crispy fate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Wiring Harness===&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes displays just go blank and it is a fault in the wiring harness from backbox to the Master Display Driver.  If you can swap a working Master Display Driver board from a System 3-6a game with stable displays, then do that as a first step.  This way you quickly determine if the fault is in the backbox &#039;&#039;&#039;OR&#039;&#039;&#039; the Master Display Driver PCB or displays on the front of the light board.  If it&#039;s the towards the backbox then suspect display harness cabing Driver to MPU, or the display PIA or decoding on the MPU. If you don&#039;t have the ability to swap in a spare Master Display board, then turn off the game and test the harness for continuity between the backbox (MPU board) and the cables at the left and right side of the Master using this &#039;&#039;[[media:10-displaywiring-sys-4-6.pdf|Master Display board harness wiring diagram]]&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Segment failures===&lt;br /&gt;
Segment failures on a single display could be that display failing. Same issue if just one display is blank.  Swap that display with another (power off first) and see if the problem moves with that display.  If it moves, it&#039;s that display glass or its board.  If it doesn&#039;t move and stays at the same player location, see below for the possible suspects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Segment failures on multiple displays and probable cause:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Players 1 &amp;amp; 2 Segments and master display Segments are out:&lt;br /&gt;
* BCD inputs are A1 B1 C1 D1 from the MPU board  &lt;br /&gt;
* MC14543 BCD to 7-Seg. Decoder IC5&lt;br /&gt;
* UDN7180 Display Driver IC9&lt;br /&gt;
* Resistors R1-R7&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Players 3 &amp;amp; 4 Segments&lt;br /&gt;
* BCD inputs are A2 B2 C2 D2 from the MPU board  &lt;br /&gt;
* MC14543 BCD to 7-Seg. Decoder IC8&lt;br /&gt;
* UDN7180 Display Driver IC10&lt;br /&gt;
* Resistors R8-R14&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start out by measuring all the resistors on the master display board with the power off.  &lt;br /&gt;
R1-R14 should be around 10K ohms.  Any that are not within about 10% (say a range between 9.6K to 10.4K ohms) need to be replaced.  Also look and see if any look &amp;quot;toasted&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Those resistors get cooked on the Master display boards and usually will then cause single segments to fail on both the player 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4 displays together, as they are linked.  Te resistors need to be replaced with the same value: 10K but at 1/2 Watt.  Some of the modern &#039;metal film&#039; resistors are rated at 0.6W which is perfect and they fit nicely in that location.  Older 0.5W (1/2W) resistors are larger, but are fine.  Mount them slightly off the PCB so they get good airflow all around the resistor body.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do the above steps anyway, no matter what the display problem is although it&#039;s probably not going to be the whole story.&lt;br /&gt;
Replacement resistors are cheap and will prolong the life of your displays.  Reducing the voltage going to the displays when rebuilding the HV section of the PSU is a good step to take and will help as well.  You only need to replace two Zener diodes to achieve this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Digit Failures===&lt;br /&gt;
Strobe inputs for the display digits come in to three 14069 hex inverters on the driver board.  IC1, IC2 and IC3.&lt;br /&gt;
* IC1 is dedicated to the Master Display &#039;Credit/Match&#039;. Strobes are: 15,16,7,8 left to right, for the 4 digits it uses.&lt;br /&gt;
* IC2 and IC3 strobe inputs are more complicated, to strobe distribution between these IC chips is shown in the display diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Strobe (or strobe input) failures are likely to show up in the player display pairings 1&amp;amp;3 or 2&amp;amp;4 because:&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 1-6  are shared for players 1 &amp;amp; 3&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 9-14 are shared for players 2 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===All Displays are Blank===&lt;br /&gt;
This could be that the +100v or the -100v HV are missing from the PSU board.  Both have to be there, so check that the output from the PSU and that the voltages (HV) are good first, and getting to the Master display driver to be relayed to the player displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are also 5 x  3 Mega ohm resistors, at R15-R19,  These are for the cathode &amp;quot;keep alives&amp;quot; and again should be near that value.  If the 3 Meg resistors don&#039;t look cooked and are within spec, check that you can see an &amp;quot;orange glow&amp;quot; in the displays when the lights in the room are dim or off.  If you see a faint glow (some describe it as an &#039;orange neon dot&#039;), then look elsewhere for the fault.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
If you don&#039;t see the display glow, check the wiring to the  connectors carefully looking for a burnt wire at pins 4J7-1 -2 and -6 &lt;br /&gt;
on the master display.  Do this with the power off, as you are dealing with 100v and -100v DC.  If you find a cooked wire, sometimes just cutting the wire back a bit to expose clean metal and then reinserting it firmly in the IDC connector will repair the problem with a bad connection for one of the HV lines.  Remove and reseat all the edge connectors on the master display board and especially examine the ones that go to the backbox.  You can clean the copper contacts on the edge connectors gently with an eraser to shine up the copper if it&#039;s dull or has &amp;quot;dead spots&amp;quot; worn on it.  Check any inline connectors as well. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I also recommend disconnecting all the player displays 1-4 at the  Master display.  Get it working with the just the credit/match and &lt;br /&gt;
then with one other display attached, like player 1.  Then add back the player 2-4 displays one at a time (you need to power off each time you add or swap a display), testing for correct function each time.  You can also swap the player displays as a diagnostic step and carefully observe if the fault(s) stay with the Display in question or move to the new location.  Use the &amp;quot;display test&amp;quot; on the diagnostics for this. After the above is checked, perhaps you do have to suspect the IC chips (or  for the discrete version the transistors).  Depending on whether the Segments or Digits are out, it will point you at a specific IC (or transistor array). Knowing which displays are out helps reduce the fault domain down to one chip.  You need be like a detective, following the clues.  Having a Master Display Assembly drawing and a schematic on hand will help with this process.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s hoping that it isn&#039;t one of the UDN6118A-1 (aka UDN6184-5) IC chips that&#039;s faulty.  Hard to remove from another board in one piece, without a de-soldering station and becoming obsolete.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, check that the display blanking connector is in place. This will be a 4 pin connector with a single wire. If this connection has failed or has been unplugged, the game will boot, go into attract and seem to be working, but the displays will remain blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays only showing even number===&lt;br /&gt;
This is caused by a display signal connector issue.  This shows up in pairs; player one and two or player three and four. Likely to be header pins on MPU board connector J5, J6, J7&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Scrolling Digits on Display===&lt;br /&gt;
The rather unusual issue of &amp;quot;scrolling digits&amp;quot; on the displays is caused by failed/failing filter capacitors on the power supply board. Over about 40 years of operation, these capacitors begin to fail and no longer effectively filter the high voltages. The OEM capacitors were rated at 100uf/150V. These capacitors can be replaced with 220uf/160V axial capacitors to correct this behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video of this behavior can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxIRdJ7ecBY &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3-6 Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 3-6 Master Display Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
Master Display Driver Boards came in two versions, discrete and IC based.  Williams designed the discrete version when the UDN7180 / UDN6184 Gas Plasma Display Driver ICs became scarce (and they were expensive even then). There are some logic chips that decode the BCD data for the 7 display segments (MC15453 or MC15458) and to buffer and invert the display strobe lines for the digits (MC14069).  These buffers and decoders are common to both the D8000 and D8168 versions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Discrete version Display Driver=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display discrete.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Discrete Components)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D8168 board uses  MPSA92 (PNP in a TO-92 package) and MPSA42 (NPN also TO-92) transistors to drive the Master (Credit/ Match) and player scoring displays.  These gas plasma display driver transistors are available today and still very cheap to buy.  Unfortunately, this style of board is less common to find in the wild, but actually easier to maintain.  At least no one can try to charge you $20+ for an obsolete driver IC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====IC version Display Driver=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D8000 IC version board is composed of ICs that implement the transistor arrays.  Usual factory chips are the UDN-7180 for the Segment Driver and the UDN6118a-1 for the Digit Driver.  You may find the Digit Driver IC is a UDN6184-5 as well from Williams.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The UDN-7180 IC chips are still fairly easy to find. Cost should be reasonable, if you shop / ask around. (Sprague) or uPA6118c may still be available for $3-5 but have a lower breakdown voltage (~85v DC) than original part.  The displays run at +/-100v DC as standard and need the higher rated original part which is the the UDN6118A-1 (note we have -1 at the end).  The UDN6118a-1 is rare and also becoming very expensive, as much as $20+ for an IC chip.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you do find the &#039;&#039;&#039;lower rated UDN6118a (or uPA6118c)&#039;&#039;&#039;, then you will need to replace two zener diodes on the PSU to lower the display voltage down from 100v.  It&#039;s a good idea anyway on a working System 3-7 game.  Not overdriving display glass and less stress on the expensive display driver chips will lengthen the life of your game. Arcades sometimes had bright lights or windows, while in your home you won&#039;t notice any difference running at a lower voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I usually drop the voltage down leaving the Power Supply to about +/- 90v with 2 x 1n4763a 91v zeners, at locations Z2  &amp;amp; Z4.  This seems to work well, but you are still probably driving near the limits of the replacement UDN6118a.  Unlike the Bally games of the same era, there is no fine adjustment on the voltage output of the HV section of the PSU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the Power Supply repair section for more information about parts to use and other upgrades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remember to compare the costs and trouble of repairs with buying a replacement Master Display Driver board:&lt;br /&gt;
* If all that is wrong with the Master is that the Credit/Match display is out, but it drives all player displays correctly, in my experience the repair is easier than on the player display parts of the driver board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Carefully placing a new 6-digit glass against the pins of the non-working display will confirm if it is the display glass or an IC chip that has failed.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Be Careful of the HV (High Voltages) when doing this, and only hold it by the display glass as it is a natural insulator!  It takes a steady hand and some practice, but this test will work on other player displays as well.  This usually proves the old display has a digit/segment missing, is &#039;out gassed&#039; or is just prone to flickering.  This isn&#039;t foolproof, it works works provided the existing display doesn&#039;t have a short. If both displays exhibit the fault, cutting the correct &#039;leg&#039; or legs in the middle on the old display may help reveal this, and you can bend it back and solder back together if it&#039;s not shorted.      &lt;br /&gt;
** You replace the Master display glass with a standard 6-digit gas plasma display, you can even use an old (but working) player display.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can also replace the Master display with a player display that has a digit fault and would otherwise be unusable! It&#039;s possible because the &#039;100,000s&#039; and &#039;100s&#039; digits are not used on the Master [x00x00].  So you can take two faulty components (a non-working Master and non-working player score display) and make a working Master Display Driver Board.  Pinball repair nirvana.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you feel the display glass is good, you can look to the ICs which are dedicated to driving the Master (or Credit/Match) Display:&lt;br /&gt;
* Start by testing IC1, a 14069 Hex Buffer/Inverter with your logic probe.  Run the display digits diagnostic test, with the Auto/Manual switch in the Auto/Up position.  The digits on all displays should be counting 0-9.  Test the strobe lines are being inverted.  The strobe lines and associated pins are in the diagram given below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When reading this diagram remember that Player 1&amp;amp;3 Score Displays share Strobes 1-6, while Player 2&amp;amp;4 Score Displays share Strobes 9-14. One strobe for each digit.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Master Display has 4 digits only: Strobes 7,8,15,16. So if the output pin is not the inverse of the input pin or a signal is missing, then replace IC1.  It&#039;s available as a 4049U or MC14049UB. Cost is maybe 50 cents, certainly &amp;lt; $1 even in low numbers.  Useful chips to buy and have around, as the 4049 is also used on the System 3-7 Driver Board for the switch matrix and on other later games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys3-7-Displ-Digit-Driver.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Digit failures will show up in these pairings if they are related to the strobes (so digit drivers):&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 1-6:  shared for players 1 &amp;amp; 3&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 9-14: shared for players 2 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
* The Diagram below is the same for all games, as are the Master Displays which makes them interchangable:&lt;br /&gt;
* The Table / Diagram is listed in the most obvious order: Master, Player 1,2,3,4 displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a clearer Table from the above diagram:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |MASTER DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT DRIVER&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER BUFFER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|(Left) 10,000||IC4  pin 1 / 18 ||align=center|15	||IC1 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000        ||IC4  pin 3 / 16 ||align=center|16	||IC1 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10           ||IC4  pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|7   ||IC1 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|(Right) Units||IC4  pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|8	||IC1 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 1 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 2 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100,000 ||IC11 pin 1 / 18 ||align=center|1 ||IC2 pin  5 / 6||align=right|100,000 ||IC11 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|9  ||IC3 pin  9 / 8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10,000	||IC11 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|2 ||IC2 pin  3 / 4||align=right|10,000  ||IC11 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|10 ||IC3 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000  ||IC11 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|3 ||IC2 pin  1 / 2||align=right|1,000   ||IC12 pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|11 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100	||IC11 pin 4 / 15 || align=center|4 ||IC2 pin  9 / 8||align=right|100     ||IC12 pin 6 / 13 ||align=center|12 ||IC3 pin 13 /12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10	||IC11 pin 5 / 14 || align=center|5 ||IC2 pin 11 /10||align=right|10      ||IC12 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|13 ||IC3 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|Units	||IC11 pin 6 / 13 || align=center|6 ||IC2 pin 13 /12||align=right|Units   ||IC12 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|14 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 3 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 4 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100,000||IC12 pin 1 / 18 || align=center|1 ||IC2 pin  5 / 6||align=right|100,000 ||IC13 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|9 ||IC3 pin  9 / 8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10,000 ||IC12 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|2 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4||align=right|10,000 ||IC13 pin 4 / 15 ||align=center|10 ||IC3 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000 ||IC12 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|3 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2||align=right|1,000 ||IC13 pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|11 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100 ||IC12 pin 4 / 15 || align=center|4 ||IC3 pin  9 / 8||align=right|100 ||IC13 pin 6 / 13 ||align=center|12 ||IC3 pin 13 /12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10	||IC13 pin 1 / 18 || align=center|5 ||IC3 pin 11 /10||align=right|10 ||IC13 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|13 ||IC3 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|Units ||IC13 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|6 ||IC3 pin 13 /12||align=right|Units ||IC13 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|14 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If that doesn&#039;t fix it, next move on to the Segment Drivers:&lt;br /&gt;
*Look at IC4, the UDN6118A, follow the steps to do a DMM test of the UDN chip.  A trick here can be that all the pins are not used (because of the missing digits, so it is possible to make use of the original UDN6118-A-1 (or UDN6184-5) that has a previous fault and one I/O pair is faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This works for the Master Display, so I would keeep a faulty UDN chips (or a faulty board) for spares.  You never know (e.g. there is an &#039;&#039;extra unused pair&#039;&#039; on every UDN7180 type chip pins 1+18 when we get to Segment driver tricks!!! This does not work when you get to for System 7-9 Masters, as all the pins are used.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pairs that &#039;&#039;&#039;are needed&#039;&#039;&#039; for IC4 are: (1,18) (3,16) (5,14) (7,12).  So you can get away without pairs: (2,17) (4,15) (6,13) (8,11) so you can have up to 1/2 the chip faulty, but it needs to be the right positions without using wire jumpers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a way to test the UDN6118&#039;s with the power off and your DMM (multimeter).&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;With the game OFF&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the power in to the Master Display board, connector 4J7. &lt;br /&gt;
**DMM goes on the Diode test setting, usually a symbol like this:  -&amp;gt;|&lt;br /&gt;
**Red lead clipped to ground, I use the ground braid in the backbox, or on the display board connected by a jump lead (alligator clips each end)&lt;br /&gt;
**Touch black lead to the UDNxxxx pins 2 through 8&lt;br /&gt;
**You should get .5 to .7 for each pin&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Then touch Black lead on each UDNxxxx pins 17 through 11. &lt;br /&gt;
**An open reading (no reading) is the correct result.  &lt;br /&gt;
**A shorted display glass can show up during the UDNxxxx 11 through 17 test.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pairs 1,18 and 9,10), the UDN chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board. Take care to preserve this chip, as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace. Now install an IC socket in its place. Repeat the test with no chip installed. If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced. If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Notes on different board revisions:&lt;br /&gt;
Williams also used the DI-0512 (Dionics-512) for the Digit Driver IC. I have owned the discrete transistor version, but the Dionics-512 version is even harder to find, and I&#039;ve not seen one in 7 years of collecting.  That&#039;s not to say they are not out there. &lt;br /&gt;
All the troubleshooting instructions above are intended for the UDN type boards, but the Dionics boards work in a similar way, so consult the schematics.  You will also need to make sense of the warnings below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Warnings:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
These are factory changes, but if you replace or swap chips, you should be aware of the following&lt;br /&gt;
* The Display board must run similar chips, so for example all UDN-6118 / UDN-6184 types for the Digit Drivers OR all DI-0512 Digit Drivers (which are longer, meaning they have more pins). They have different power requirements!  The two Segment Driver ICs need to match, too.  So two MC14548 ICs at IC6 &amp;amp; 7, OR two MC14543 ICs at IC5 &amp;amp; 8. Mix &amp;amp; Match or having all four installed is mental (crazy)!   You should have empty pads on the board for the optional IC chips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* With the DI-0512 at ICs on these boards, the &#039;10K&#039; resistors R1-R14 are all 15K. Adjust the repair instructions below accordingly.&lt;br /&gt;
* If IC4 and IC11-14 are UDN-6118 chips, then a +100v trace is cut connecting pin 2 of connector J7 and ZR1 (1N4740A Zener diode) is added.  &lt;br /&gt;
* With the DI-0512&#039;s this trace is left, and there is no Z1 used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D8000-Cut-Trace.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes a HV arc can occur between two pads on the Master Display board, and if this happens it will blow out the HV section of the PSU (power Supply Unit).  If you have the UD7180 version of the System 3-6 Master Display board, it may be worthwhile taking this &#039;&#039;&#039;easy step&#039;&#039;&#039; to prevent a problem:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an unused track on the front of the board near to the bottom right corner of the Master display glass. The top round pad in this picture is unused on the UDN7180 version but goes to the +100v supply at Pin 2 of 4J7. Click to expand the picture at left for a better view.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It appears that the pad shorted out to the ground track that goes around both of the round pads. Cutting the track to the top round pad as shown in the picture (with the board removed from the game) will cause no problems for the displays on your game. And it could prevent disaster.  A short could damage the HV section of the PSU, even the Master Display board itself. I have seen it happen, so better safe than sorry.  BTW- This track &#039;&#039;&#039;should not be cut&#039;&#039;&#039; if the Dionics Digit Driver ICs are installed.  The writer has owned many games and has never seen a board with the Dionics ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sound / Speech Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
Sounds and speech are one of the most important parts of a pinball game for me.&amp;amp;nbsp; Few things are more depressing for me than the sound of a pinball rolling around the wood with no background noises and without sounds of points being scored.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This section deals with the square sound board Type 2 ( System 6 &amp;amp; 7, with or without the speech &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;). The Williams part number is 1C-2001-146-x, although much of the information applies to the Type 1 boards (System 3 &amp;amp; 4).&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
A description of the sound board Type 2:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The sound board is actually a &amp;quot;mini-MPU&amp;quot; board running a 6808 CPU and a single 6821 PIA. So read the MPU board sections about the replacing sockets and the reset circuit as it will work in a very similar way.&lt;br /&gt;
* It has an external 6810 RAM for the CPU registers / &#039;stack&#039;. This can be replaced by internal RAM in the 6802 CPU if that is used. &lt;br /&gt;
* It has it&#039;s own PSU (Power Supply Unit) and takes ~18v AC voltage directly from the games mains transformer and rectifies it to DC voltages that provide the +5v logic to the ICs and +12v for the CPU reset circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
* It provides -12v DC only used on the speech card for IC2 &amp;amp; IC3 the two 1458 OP Amps. They act as mixers for the analogue sounds and digital speech.&lt;br /&gt;
* A single 2K 2716 Eprom (ROM) which contains program instructions that &#039;boot&#039; the CPU and code to create the sounds. Different ROM versions are containing specific sounds are numbered: Williams&#039; Sound ROM 1, Sound ROM 2, Sound ROM 3...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last item deserves some explanation. The Sound ROM does not store sounds as samples, but as mathematical &#039;strings&#039; which describe parameters such as attack, frequency, decay and echo. So the board functions as a synthesizer, rather than playing a WAV file or compressed sound like an MP3 player today. In fact a 2K sample at 22K Hz sample rate could last about 1/10 of a second.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 4K 2532 Eproms on the Speech Board can hold sampled sound but at very low quality. [[Black Knight]] used 4 Speech ROMs for a total of 16K and could speak about 20 words along with the famous laughter. Earlier games having 3 Speech ROMs Like Gorgar or Firepower could speak only about 11 words using 3 x 2532 ROMs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Why did they provide a different PSU for the Sound card?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
This early Williams game design could be for ground isolation, perhaps to provide a cleaner sound by avoiding interference from the other components which created RFI. Notice that I used &amp;quot;early Williams game design&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;cleaner sound&amp;quot; were just used together in the same sentence. I have also seen Sound Boards where the BR1 was missing and replaced by 4 x diodes, which also works. Two were mounted on the front and two on the back, with the bands on the diodes all pointing in the direction of TP1 (+12v). Start at 1N5401, rated 100v @ 3A.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Understanding this background should help pinpoint the source of problems with Sounds and Speech on games of the early 80&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Useful Sound Board Repair Links===&lt;br /&gt;
Leon Borre&#039;s work is a good starting guide for Williams sound board repair. He was a clever guy in Belgium, who developed special test ROMs for lots of pinball systems, including Williams System 3 through 7. &#039;&#039;&#039; I can&#039;t thank him enough here!&#039;&#039;&#039; He developed a test chip that can be downloaded and burned to a 2716 Sound EPROM, which will start the CPU, &amp;quot;pulse&amp;quot; the PIA and also test the memory. It&#039;s harder to do any advanced fault repairs without this test ROM. So it&#039;s a good place to start if the sound board doesn&#039;t boot at all. Leon&#039;s technical article pertaining to Williams System 3 through 7 sound can now be found [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair here].&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Dave Langley&#039;s site [http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/techwilliamshardwareidsound.html robotron-2084.co.uk] has a clear diagram of jumper settings for most games on Williams Type 2 boards. Check jumpers first, W1 must be present if no speech board is attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing for a Sound Board fault===&lt;br /&gt;
Before starting to repair a Williams sound card, first determine that there is actually have a sound board problem! Do the sounds work correctly from the sound board &#039;self test&#039; by pressing the diagnostic button? Have you followed the diagnostic procedures in the game manual and checked the &#039;Solid State Flipper Maintenance Manual&#039; or equivalent for the specific game? There will probably be a fault on the sound board if the diagnostic test on the sound board produces nothing (or the wrong sounds) &#039;&#039;&#039;and&#039;&#039;&#039; grounding the input pins won&#039;t work. See the &#039;sound selects&#039; section for specific games below. Check out the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting section] first. After reviewing it, here are are some specific things to eliminate first: &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
* Bypass the volume control in the cabinet by removing the connector at IOJ4 and jumpering pins 1 &amp;amp; 2. It will be really loud (full volume in fact) so a couple K ohm resistor (3K?) looped around those two pins will substitute for the volume pot and save your ears.&lt;br /&gt;
* Take the sound board out, leave all the connectors still plugged in and the game running.&lt;br /&gt;
** The speaker and volume control can be set as above.&lt;br /&gt;
** Touch the back of the sound amp at IC1 with a finger - it&#039;s just under the Volume control connector J2 which was jumpered and has 5 legs. Not hearing this hum could be a missing +12v or a bad amp IC.&lt;br /&gt;
** A loud loud hum should be heard from the speakers, this proves the TDA2002 sound amp is working and also that the speakers are capable of producing sound. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Treat the sound board as a mini-MPU board (but with an on-board PSU) and all the usual fixes apply:&lt;br /&gt;
* Test there is around 18v AC coming in to the sound card. It&#039;s directly from the transformer to connector 10J1 and then fused with 2 x 8A fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
** Are both fuses good? Take them out and test them. &lt;br /&gt;
**Is the voltage getting further than the fuse clips? Are the fuses hot to the touch after the power is switched off? This may indicate high resistance at the fuse clips.&lt;br /&gt;
** Pin 5 of 10J1 is the &#039;center tap&#039; or reference for the AC. There should be about 9.6 V AC between pins 1 and 5, and the same voltage between pins 9 and 5.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use the test points to measure DC +5v +12v and -12v. A short-cut (and much easier) is to touch the Red test lead to the left side leads of the 3 big capacitors, with the black lead on Ground which is the metal trace on the edge of the board. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remember -12v is only needed for the speech board, and even around -10v will normally be fine.&lt;br /&gt;
**Don&#039;t worry if the voltages aren&#039;t perfect (especially the +/-12v DC which is unregulated). Only the +5v needs to be in a narrower range (4.8-5.2v).&lt;br /&gt;
**No +5v with +12v present suggests the 1 amp &#039;7805 5v regulator&#039; at IC8 is faulty. It looks like the TIP-xxx transistor as it is in a TO-220 case, with a heatsink. Measuring +12v input on the top pin and no +5v output on the bottom pin will confirm this diagnosis. Obviously the CPU (and other ICs) can&#039;t run without the +5v logic voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
* If there are Scanbe sockets, replace them first, including the ROM socket. The PIA can be left alone for now if it&#039;s soldered directly to the board and not socketed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Read the MPU board repair and troubleshooting if the board still won&#039;t &#039;boot&#039; (the CPU, working RAM and reset circuit are very similar).&lt;br /&gt;
** Because there are no LEDs to show the board is &#039;locked up&#039;, you will need to look at pins 9 - 20 &amp;amp; 22-33 on the CPU for any activity with a logic probe. If the CPU has started, there should be some activity on these address and data bus lines. If they are &#039;dead&#039;, then the CPU has not started.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you look at the CPU bus lines with Leon&#039;s sound board test ROM (instead of the sound ROM) you can see which lines are missing, and also will see the PIA lines &#039;dance&#039; as he calls it. The PIA I/O lines strobe Hi/Lo/Hi/Lo if they are working as they should. The test ROM will need to be burned on a 2716 Eprom.&lt;br /&gt;
** Review Leon Borré&#039;s [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair Williams sound board article] for advanced troubleshooting. You can fix boards more easily with his free test ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
** Note: The the test chip will not start on a Type 2 board with jumper W1 missing, unless the speech card is also connected. Mine didn&#039;t start &amp;quot;pulsing&amp;quot; without the speech card. Because of this, here&#039;s a &#039;&#039;key tip&#039;&#039;: &#039;&#039;&#039;Jumper W1, and set DS1: SW1 and SW2 to OFF and run without a speech board&#039;&#039;&#039; until the sound is working 100%. Do this now if you haven&#039;t removed the speech board already, it may not be obvious at first, but you have to get back to a basic setup and work forward from there.&lt;br /&gt;
See also [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Put the Sound/Speech Board on the Bench|Advanced Sound/Speech Board Repair on the Bench]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Back to Basics===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6-7_Sound_W1_Jumper.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Temporary W1 jumper installed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Pot Alternate.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Bypassing the volume control]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The next step, once you have verified voltages is to remove the speech board (if one is fitted) and jumper W1. Verify W1 is present for any board you are working on, as no sound gets to the audio amp without a speech board or jumper W1 present.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To bypass the volume control, a 470Kohm resistor can be installed across pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 of connector 10J4. Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped and installed in a .156&amp;quot; housing. Although a 470Kohm resistor is used in this example, other values can be used to obtain the desired volume. 470Kohms sets the volume to medium loudness.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The .156&amp;quot; set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3-7 games and 9-11 games too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Modification for Noisy Type 1 Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
On the Type 1 sound boards, Williams did not use a small value bypass capacitor on the input to the 7805 +5V regulator as recommended by the manufacturer. This bypass capacitor is used to keep noise off of the +12V voltage rail, which is used by the power amplifier IC. Installing a .22uF ceramic capacitor across the input pin (pin 1 - left pin from front) and ground (pin 2 - center pin) of the 7805 regulator can significantly reduce the amount of noise and hum on these sound cards.  Important note -- the Williams Type 1 Sound Board schematic diagram has an error.  Pin 1 is the input, pin *2* is center pin and connected to ground and pin *3* is the output.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 4-6 Sound Selects===&lt;br /&gt;
Press the diagnostic switch on the Sound Board. When sounds do work on the sound board self test, but you get missing or incorrect sounds during a game, then a simple test for all models of sound card is to ground the input pins. This gives you an indication that the sound board is working, as each pin should produce a distinct sound. For Type 2 boards (square ones) that&#039;s 10J3 pins 2-4 and 7, pin 1 is on the right, It may also be the same pin locations on the Type 1 boards (Flash, and other System 3 &amp;amp; 4 games).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBoardBenchTestAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Type 1 Sound board connections and grounding sound select header pins. Here, one end of a jumper wire is clipped to the ground plain of the board itself.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Grounding those sound select pins is exactly what the Driver Board does during a game solenoid diagnostic test. It fires solenoids 9-13 to ground the select pins and this triggers &#039;sound calls&#039; on System 3-6 games. If grounding the sound board pins works, then suspect cabling between the Sound Board and Driver Board or faulty transistors (or pre-drivers) on the Driver Board for the System 3-6a games. You can ground the transistor&#039;s metal tabs from the chart below, if this does not produce sounds then the cabling between Driver and Sound Boards is then suspected.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that &#039;&#039;&#039;grounding the center tab of a transistor&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;does not test the transistor(s)&#039;&#039;, it only proves that the cabling from that tab out to the sound board select pins has continuity. It does not prove the transistor(s) work as a switch under the CPU&#039;s control. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is true for &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;any testing of solenoids (or flashers) by grounding transistor tabs&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It only proves that the cabling from the Driver Board out to the device is intact, and that the device has power and can function when grounded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So the Solenoid portion of the diagnostic test will help you figure it out for a System 3-6 game. It can perhaps help for System 7 game too, although remember that sound calls are triggered from the MPU board instead.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 6 (and earlier) you will have a fault on the Driver Board, and specifically the solenoids in the range 9-13 if the following are true:&lt;br /&gt;
* The self test on the sound board works as expected,&lt;br /&gt;
* Grounding tabs on the Driver Board produces the same sounds,&lt;br /&gt;
* But the game&#039;s diagnostic tests do not trigger sounds when testing solenoids number 9-13.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If it fires the device, the problem is the transistors or the logic on the driverboard and then the PIA upstream from them. You should first replace both the associated TIP 120/102 and the matching 2n4401 pre-driver transistors on the Driver Board (a fairly easy fix) and re-test. Then follow Driver Board testing and repairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a transistor gets shorted &#039;on&#039; (or a 7408 IC is faulty) and one of the sound selects is constantly grounded from the Driver Board, you will certainly get fewer and usually wrong (or no) sounds played. This type of problem can be chased around for hours, if you don&#039;t work logically through the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;25%&amp;quot; border=2&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;Driver Board Positions&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 2J9 ||&amp;lt;font color=blue&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;font color=blue&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || 6 || 7 || 8&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 2J9 ||&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || 14 || 15&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;shows the 5 Sound Select Transistors on the bottom two rows of a System 3-6(a) Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If diagnostics don&#039;t work as you expect, as explained, ground the metal tabs of the TIP122 transistors (briefly - they may be real coils or flash lamps&amp;amp;#33;) on the bottom 2 rows of the driver board. You should hear 5 different sounds. The first 3 sound select transistors are at the bottom left of driver board. The first two the next row up are the remaining sound select transistors (solenoids 9-13 as shown on the chart above).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can of course also &#039;&#039;&#039;turn off the game&#039;&#039;&#039; and measure between the center tab and the input pins on the sound card with an DMM (meter set on continuity or Ohms). If you get high resistance readings, check for cold solder joints on the input pins of the sound board at 10J3. Then check the output pins on the Driver board at 2J9. Reflow the solder on all these pins. Do the other pins on the sound board at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another tip is that you should see the center tab of the &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue &amp;quot;sound transistors&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; running at about +5v DC on the driver board with the game running. If a tab is at zero volts, and others are at +5v then that grounded select points to the problem. Other TIP122 transistors could be at the coil potential, so have your DMM set to voltage and +50v or above for this test if it does not &#039;auto-range&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you get this far and can get 5 distinct sounds, then the problem is not the sound board, nor the connection to the driver board. With System 3-6, this could still be on the driver board and specifically: &lt;br /&gt;
* a power transistor TIP122, &lt;br /&gt;
* a matching 2n4401 pre-driver transistor , &lt;br /&gt;
* a 7408 logic IC&lt;br /&gt;
: and finally &lt;br /&gt;
* a 6821 PIA for Solenoids at IC5. As this is a 40 pin IC, it should be replaced as a last step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point just follow the driver board testing and repair guide to get further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Complete list of Driverboard 2J9 pins and the associated transistors (for Sys3-6) are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6 Driver Board 2J9 Sound Outputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Pin&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sol.&lt;br /&gt;
| Function &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Transistors&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Wire Colour&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;# 9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;0&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q31 / Q30&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt; / Black&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P8&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;(*)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;N/C&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P7&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#10 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q33 / Q32&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P6&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#16&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Coin Lockout*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q45 / Q44&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Grey&amp;gt;Grey&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P5&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#15&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Depends on game*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q43 / Q42&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Violet&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#14&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Credit Knocker*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q41 / Q40&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q39 / Q38&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q37 / Q36&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#f0e68c&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q35 / Q34&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Typical functions, but depends on the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
List of J3 sound select pins on the System 6 or 7 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6/7 Sound Board Inputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;10J3 Pin&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sol.&lt;br /&gt;
| Function &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Wire Colour&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;# 9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;0&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt; / Black&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#10 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P5&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#f0e68c&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P7&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;J3 P1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;(*)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;N/C&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 6, using only 5 solenoids for sound limits the number sound and speech calls. Makes 2&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;=&amp;amp;nbsp;32 so only 31 usable combinations, a call of all 0&#039;s being null. But (using Firepower as an example) you then can have all the combinations of maybe 20 sounds plus the 11 speech phrases it &amp;quot;knows&amp;quot;. So it&#039;s enough given the small amount of sound and speech memory they had to work with at the time. In fact it&#039;s amazing&amp;amp;#33; For more background, see: An interview with [http://www.firepowerpinball.com/downloads/Eugene_Jarvis_Interview.pdf&amp;quot; Eugene Jarvis], the sound engineer and programmer for Williams at the time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Changing the sound board won&#039;t cure the problem of a missing solenoid signal, and a major clue is that the sound board tests good, and is also good when grounding the 5 input pins at (Board #10) J3 input connector on the sound board.&amp;amp;nbsp; While the &amp;quot;in game&amp;quot; sounds or game diagnostics will play incorrectly or have missing sounds. For example, an email from someone said that their Firepower game could say &amp;quot;Power&amp;quot; but not &amp;quot;Fire&amp;quot;! A fairly easy diagnosis if you know the game, it pointed to transistor Q35 (a TIP122, a better replacement is the TIP102) which was completely missing from the Driver board. Transistors on the bottom row often get bent back and forth and snap clean off - hard to spot if you aren&#039;t familiar with inspecting the Driver Board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That transistor&#039;s center tab connects to 2J9 pin1 and solenoid 11 then fires sound select #2, according to the table above. Without that sound select being triggered, only half the game sounds could be produced (2&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-1&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;=&amp;amp;nbsp;15). &amp;quot;Fire&amp;quot; was one of the missing sounds, there were others but they may have not been so obvious to the owner. They would not be listed in the manual as a sound triggered by an achievement (making to rollovers F-I-R-E in this case). The point is to use all the information available to help determine the root cause of your fault.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7 Sound Selects===&lt;br /&gt;
By System 7, Williams had stopped using solenoids to fire sounds and had added a dedicated Sound/Comma PIA on the CPU board to trigger sound/speech. This meant more playfield coils and even flash lamps were now possible, as the Driver Board wasn&#039;t used to trigger the Sound Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On a Black Knight and later games, the fault could still be on the MPU board. Perhaps PIA 5 (IC36 a 6821 PIA) is suspect as this drives the sound board (and display commas) only. Again you can trigger sound selects by grounding pins on the sound board, and then move back to the header pins of the MPU at 1J8. The pins are12,11,10,9,8 in that order for the 5 sound selects 0-4 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The outputs of the IC36 PIA at PA0-PA6 connects to 1J8 starting at pin 12 (1J8 P12) and run backwards numbered as the Sound Selects in the table below:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;25%&amp;quot; border=2&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; |&#039;&#039;&#039;SYS 7 1J8 Sound &amp;amp; Comma Outputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Pin&lt;br /&gt;
! Function&lt;br /&gt;
! Wire Colour&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P1 || Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4 || &amp;lt;font color= Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / White &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P2 || Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2 || &amp;lt;font color= Violet&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P3 || Key (*) || N/C&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P4-7 || No Connection || White&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P8 || Sound Select 4 || &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#FFCC00&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Yellow&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P9 || Sound Select 3 || &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P10 || Sound Select 2 || &amp;lt;font color= Blue&amp;gt;Blue&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P11 || Sound Select 1 || &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P12 || Sound Select 0 || &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#FFCC00&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Yellow&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In theory Williams had the ability to trigger Sound Selects 0-6 from the System 7 MPU board, and could have programmed 127 sound / speech calls. But the sound boards at the time never used that many, to my knowledge. So you only need to worry about the same 5 sound selects 0-4. Be sure to first &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;check the output pins at 1J8 on the MPU Board for cold solder joints&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;, before replacing the 40 pin PIA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Put the Sound/Speech Board on the Bench===&lt;br /&gt;
By this point, it is likely that there is a sound board fault. If you don&#039;t feel comfortable troubleshooting or don&#039;t want to get involved with low level board repairs, there are repair services available--check pinball communities/forums for recommendations. [[Williams_System_3_-_7#If All Else Fails|Reproduction sound and speech boards]] are also available if all else fails.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Pinouts.JPG|300px|left|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Pinouts]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If none of this helped so far, read the rest of the section below. The boards will likely need to be bench tested in order to proceed with testing. Any PC power supply has the +12v and -12v DC that will be necessary for bench testing, which are normally located on the motherboard connectors. The older the PC power supply, the better, as they will have a power switch, but there are two pins that can be jumpered (or connected to a switch) to enable the voltage outputs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Sound Bench.JPG|300px|left|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Connected to an AT Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Sound Test Points.JPG|300px|right|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Connections for an AT Power Supply (Four Sound Board Test Points)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Search for an &amp;quot;AT Power supply&amp;quot; on the web for the connector locations or measure them with the DMM. The wires on one example were colored Yellow (+12v) and Blue (-12v). Ground was black as usual. Sliding the existing pins from the motherboard connector housing, and they will potentially fit right in a .156&amp;quot; socket to connect to the sound board. The +12 and -12 goes to the outsides of a 9 pin connector (pins 1 &amp;amp; 9) and the ground to the center pin (pin 5). It doesn&#039;t matter which way around the connector is installed--if the Bridge Rectifier (BR) is working it will sort it out by conducting through the correct diodes.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another method is to connect the AT power supply connections with alligator test leads directly to the four test points on the sound board. However, this method will not ensure that the bridge rectifer on the sound board is working or not.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point refer to [[Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair|Leon Borre&#039;s sound board test link]]. He has an excellent approach to a sound board that is dead. A copy of his sound test ROM will need to be burned to an EPROM. A logic probe (under $20) will also be needed, but Leon describes how to make an LED test probe with some wire, an LED, and a resistor which costs a few cents. The logic probe will be more versatile and easier to use. As mentioned before, the Test ROM can check the CPU, memory and also exercises the PIA inputs/outputs. An added bonus is that the test ROM will allow the board to boot, even though there are faults on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Checking for Sounds Prior to the Sound Amplifier===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Preamp Probe.JPG|300px|left|thumb|An unamplified speaker used to probe for sounds before the sound amplifier]]&lt;br /&gt;
A method to test for sounds prior to the amplifier is to check the output of the D/A converter. This can be accomplished by building a speaker set up. It starts with a low wattage speaker, which does not need amplification to produce sounds. A speaker from an old computer case is a great source. After acquiring a speaker, solder two wire leads to it. Then, solder an alligator test clip to one of the leads, and a small piece of solid, copper, house wire (14 or 12 gauge romex works well) or a small finishing nail to the other lead. The second lead will be used to probe the sound output before amplification. This speaker test set up can be used on any other brand sound board too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the speaker test set up is constructed, clip the alligator test lead to ground. Then, place the probe lead on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; collector leg / solder pad of the Q2 transistor, as shown in the picture. Once the probe is in place, press the sound board test button. The speaker will have to be placed close to one&#039;s ear to hear the sounds, if any sounds are being output. If the sounds are being heard, either the amp (IC1 - TDA2002) has failed, has lost connection (cold solder joints), or is not being powered properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally the probe would be used to check the sound output right on the leg of the D/A converter (IC13 - 1408). However, pin 4 of IC13 (the output) is adjacent to pin 3, which inputs the -12vdc power to the D/A converter. It is much safer to use the collector leg of Q2 as a probing point to avoid shorting pins 3 and 4 together.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the if the 1408 DAC has failed, it can be subbed with the more readily available DAC0808. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Getting Sound and Speech Working Together===&lt;br /&gt;
The very first thing is to make sure you have the correct jumper settings and ROM types.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can NOT &amp;quot;mix and match&amp;quot; sound and speech ROMs as you like.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My experience is on Williams System 4-7 pinball where the Sound ROMs are 2716 Eproms and the Speech are always 2532 Eproms. The exceptions are video games (and a few pinballs), such as Defender, Sinistar, Robotron and Joust which use a 2532 on the sound board ROM and each has special jumper settings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;You need the correct Sound ROM type for your game&#039;s Speech ROMs&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firepower &#039;&#039;&#039;and&#039;&#039;&#039; Alien Poker both use &amp;quot;WMS Sound ROM 3&amp;quot; no matter &#039;&#039;&#039;what&#039;&#039;&#039; the Alien Poker manuals (or ROM download archives) say. It&#039;s the only way I ever got speech to work on my Alien Poker. If you have [[Blackout]], you will need a 2716 Sound ROM 2 to go with Blackout&#039;s 2532 Speech ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is mainly a warning if you will be plugging together different boards on a workbench or when troubleshooting a problem, don&#039;t trust that all Sound ROMs work with all speech boards !&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram on placement of the Speech ICs, as the layout of the ROMs aren&#039;t very logical. Check they are correct. This diagram works for any of this type of Speech Daughter board. Replace your game number nnn in ST-nnn-ROM# format. &lt;br /&gt;
See examples for [[Firepower]] (497), [[Alien Poker]] (501) and [[Black Knight]] (500), which are among my favourites. &lt;br /&gt;
The information is provided for clarity, it is recommended that you replace Original Speech Mask Roms with newer 2532 Eproms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; unless a System 9 speech board is available with jumpers, 2732 Eproms cannot be used for the speech board, unless the board is [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Speech ROM IC socket locations:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Speech-ICs.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also distrust the switch settings and be aware that you could have a faulty DIP switch on the Type 2 board. It can happen! Test by removing the 2-way switch, or jumpering across the back of the switch. If DS1-2 is not connecting, you will hear sounds- but no speech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clue here is that if you press the sound board diagnostic switch, you hear BOTH sounds and speech.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Speech Scanbe.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 6/7 Speech Board with Scanbe Sockets]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Speech Scanbe Socket.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Identifying Scanbe Sockets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Speech ROMs and Speech Board sockets should eliminated, you can measure continuity on all pins from the Speech ROM to the bottom of the socket or back of board before replacing Sockets. If they say &#039;&#039;&#039;SCANBE&#039;&#039;&#039; then replace them as they will be faulty. &lt;br /&gt;
: Gaps in speech usually point to a faulty Speech ROM, look in the manuals for which ROMs hold the missing words.&lt;br /&gt;
: Suspect the logic selects on the sound board or the 40-way IDC connection between the speech board to the sound board. Watching for &#039;chip select&#039; pins 20 on each Speech ROM with a logic probe will help you see the chips being selected by the sound board. Again knowing which ROMs hold the missing phrases will help. No speech selects can point to the interboard cables, or missing outputs from IC2 (a 7442 decoder) &#039;&#039;&#039;on the Sound Board&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
:Bear in mind that the Speech card is an &#039;expansion board&#039; to hold ROM space for the speech and the digital/analogue mixer. The address and data buses extend across the &#039;40-way&#039; IDC connector in a similar way to the connector between the MPU and Driver Board. Except the connector solution is more robust and IDC was still used until recently to connect IDE PC hard drives. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other problems that could cause sounds but missing speech include:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
* W1 is jumpered, &lt;br /&gt;
* W9 is NOT jumpered (W4 is probably in place), &lt;br /&gt;
* IC7 (inverter) faulty,&lt;br /&gt;
* IC10 (6821 PIA) is faulty (use Leon&#039;s Sound Board test chip) &lt;br /&gt;
* Faulty speech board (no speech) or speech ROMs are installed incorrectly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switch 2 MUST be ON for speech. OFF for no speech. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switch 1 selects between Tones and Synth Sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
ON for musical tones (more like bings and bongs), &lt;br /&gt;
OFF for Synthesized Sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadd&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;ing=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;10%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=2 &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 2&lt;br /&gt;
| ON&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 1&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;DS1 Set correctly for Sounds and Speech.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;10%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=2&lt;br /&gt;
| SW 2&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 1&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp; &#039;&#039;&#039;DS1: Set for Sounds only.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp; You will also have to &#039;&#039;&#039;jumper W1&#039;&#039;&#039; if this is not in place.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Speech Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
===Common failure parts===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7SpeechBoardBefore.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Speech board sockets. These are Molex, but &amp;quot;they gotta go&amp;quot;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7SpeechBoardAfter.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Nice twin wipe sockets, which are preferred over machine pin sockets.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first and most important action when debugging a Speech board is to eliminate all of the common failure issues. With these issues out of the way, it is much easier to focus on the real issues preventing proper operation. And, eliminating these typical trouble areas almost always brings the board back to full operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The most frequent reason for failure of the speech board are the OEM sockets. ScanBe sockets, or white sockets pictured here, should be replaced. If a ROM can be easily removed using only your fingers, the socket should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also check the ribbon cable to the sound card. It breaks frequently at pin 1 which carries the 5V Analog voltage. If you replace the cable make sure that you do not damage the J1 connector. The part is either NLA or so obscure no one stocks it. Fortunately you can gently pull off the cover and reuse it with a new cable. The counterpart is a standard ribbon connector and must be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your speech is garbled and you replaced the MC1458 chips the 55516 CVSD at location IC1 might be bad. This is somewhat rare but not unheard of. The part is long since obsolete and hard to source. It can be replaced with a 55532, 55536 or 55564. Only the 55564, which was used up to the Williams WPC era, seems to be somewhat available. Check your favorite pinball shop for it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As with all electronics other parts can fail but the above parts are responsible for around 95% of all speech card failures. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using the Sound Board Test ROM===&lt;br /&gt;
Leon&#039;s test ROM and instructions will be very useful. The ROM and instructions are available [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The the test chip will not start on a Type 2 board with jumper W1 missing, unless the speech card is &lt;br /&gt;
also connected. Mine didn&#039;t start &amp;quot;pulsing&amp;quot; without the speech card. You also need &lt;br /&gt;
to put the Test code on a 2716 Eprom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a key tip:  Jumper W1, and set DS1: SW1 and SW2 to OFF and &#039;&#039;&#039;run without a speech board&#039;&#039;&#039; until the sound is working 100%.   Do this now if you haven&#039;t removed the speech board already. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This may not be obvious at first, but you have to get back to a basic setup and work forward from there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following is an attempt to list notable Williams games that used these boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are conflicting lists, Hyperball could be a 2532 ROM #8. as the file hypsnd12.532 has a checksum of 0x25A8 - which doesn&#039;t match other sound ROM images.  So the list is not perfect.  Some corrections have been as of Feb 2011 after more research. If you have updates or can confirm Williams sound ROM numbers (and compared checksums) then please go ahead and edit this table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games with speech in the first table are right, I&#039;m less happy with the Video games and Hyperball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams&amp;amp;nbsp;Pinball Games which use a Type 2 Sound Board and a Speech Board:&lt;br /&gt;
{|  cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!NAME &lt;br /&gt;
!SYS&lt;br /&gt;
!GAME&lt;br /&gt;
!WMS SOUND ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Blackout&lt;br /&gt;
| 6&lt;br /&gt;
| 495&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 2&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Gorgar&lt;br /&gt;
| 6&lt;br /&gt;
| 496&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 2&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Firepower &amp;lt;font color=Blue size=2&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| 6&lt;br /&gt;
| 497&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=2&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| 7&lt;br /&gt;
| 500&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Alien Poker&lt;br /&gt;
| 6a&lt;br /&gt;
| 501&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3 &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;confirmed&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Jungle Lord&lt;br /&gt;
| 7&lt;br /&gt;
| 503&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Pharoah&lt;br /&gt;
| 7&lt;br /&gt;
| 504&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 6&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Steve Ritchie Game Design&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Video Games with Sound and Speech Board:&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sinistar (cockpit front) &amp;amp; Upright, Type 2,&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;ROM 9&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Pinball Games with Sound Boards Only:&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
! NAME&lt;br /&gt;
! SYS&lt;br /&gt;
!GAME &lt;br /&gt;
!WMS BOARD, SOUND ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Flash &amp;lt;font color=Blue size=2&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|486&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Warp&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|489&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Stellar Wars &amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|490&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Laser Ball&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|493&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 2&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Scorpion&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|494&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Algar&lt;br /&gt;
|6a&lt;br /&gt;
|499&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Cosmic Gunfight&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|502&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board, ROM 12&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Solar Fire&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|507&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 7&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Hyperball &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(n)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|509&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
SPECIAL&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 8 ?&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|510&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Fantasy&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|515&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 13&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Warlock (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|516&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 14&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Defender (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|517&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 15&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Joust (2 player pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|519&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
SPECIAL &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Snd_IC12.532 ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Laser Cue&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|520&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Firepower II &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(m)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|521&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 13&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;**&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|530&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board, ROM 3 &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
ROM 4 is on my game&amp;amp;#33;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;(r) &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Steve Ritchie Game Design&lt;br /&gt;
    &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;(m)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; Mark Ritchie Game Design&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;(n)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; Not a Pinball, a gun game that shoots tiny pinballs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Sound ROM 1 was used from World Cup #481 to Scorpion #494, but not Laser Ball from my notes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;**&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Quite a rare and beautiful pinball. Only 100 were produced, the last Williams System 7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is some useful [http://pin-logic.com/early_williams_pinball_game.htm pinball sound file checksum] information. At [http://pin-logic.com Tom Callahan&#039;s pinlogic.com]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|  cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!NAME&lt;br /&gt;
!WMS BOARD &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Bubbles&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Defender (Video)&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Joust (Video)&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&amp;quot;VIDEO&amp;quot; &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(Checksum matches ROM 4 from Algar and Barracora)&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Robotron 2048&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Sinistar (cockpit rear)&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 10&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Please Note: VIDEO&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROMS and those for Joust (a 2 player head to head pin) and Hyperball are 2532 Eproms&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An annoying fact is that from around System 7, most of the WMS sound ROM files are all &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;named something like &#039;&#039;&#039;SND_IC12.716 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;, which makes them harder to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Running a Type 2 Sound Board with a 6802 CPU===&lt;br /&gt;
You might not have an 6808 CPU, or you might upgrade to a 6802 because then there is one less IC (the 6810 RAM) to go wrong.  You can leave the 6810 (as it&#039;s not socketed) if the card functions with it in place.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can get the Type 2 board to run on a 6802 CPU, without a working 6810 RAM in IC11.  To do this you cut a track called W14. It isn&#039;t a 0 ohm resistor (or a real jumper), it&#039;s a track located under R30, the 3rd resistor in from Left on the Bottom Left of the board. W14 grounds pin 36 of the processor for a 6808 CPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to use a 6802, you cut the track W14. Pin 36 will go high through the 4.7K &amp;quot;pull up&amp;quot; resistor at R30. You could then remove the 6810 RAM as the 6802 has internal RAM. My advice is again to just &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;leave it in place&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; if the card functions with it there. I had to rework tracks damaged by removing a 6810 on one sound board being repaired.  Avoid making extra work for yourself, and &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;spend more time playing pinball&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;.  That way it can be reverted back to 6808 operation in future. Good instructions are currently at [http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/techwilliamshardwareidsound.html www.robotron-2084.co.uk].  A useful site for arcade video and pinball and Dave has a nice Defender pinball to look at while you&#039;re there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Modifying the System 6/7 Speech Board to Use 2732 EPROMs===&lt;br /&gt;
The original System 6/7 speech board is setup to only use 2532 EPROMs.  With the following simple modifications, a speech board can use 2732 EPROMs instead, if the need arises.  Please be aware that although these modifications are reversible, it is not nearly as easy to change a modified board using 2732 EPROMs back to a board which uses 2532 EPROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#On the component side of the board, there is a trace which runs beneath the ribbon cable connection and between pins 11 and 12 of U5 (the lowest two pins on the left).  Cut this trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the board over to the solder side.  The orientation of the board in the pic below is with the ribbon cable connection on the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate pin 18 of U5.  There is a trace between pin 18 of U5 and a via down and to the right of it.  To verify the correct via, check continuity between pin 13 of the ribbon cable (fourth pin up on far right of the ribbon connections) and the via.  Cut the trace between this via and pin 18 of U5&lt;br /&gt;
#There is another via slightly down and to the right of the previously discussed via.  This second via will have continuity between it and pin 12 on the ribbon cable (third pin up on far left of the ribbon connections).  The via will also have continuity between pin 21 of U5.  Using wire wrap or a thin gauge wire, tie these two vias together.&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate pin 18 of U5 and pin 12 of U4 (down and to the left of U5 pin 18). Again using wire wrap or a thin gauge wire, tie pin 18 of U5 to pin 12 of U4.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 6/7 Speech Board 2732 EPROM Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys67 Speech 2732 Mod Front.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Trace cut on component side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys67 Speech 2732 Mod Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Trace cut and two jumpers added on solder side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Replacing the on-board volume control with a remote volume pot (System 4)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0760.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 4 original volume pot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0761.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Connector 10J4, with pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 bridged with solder.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the volume pot on your system 4 or later sound board fails or otherwise needs replacement, it&#039;s often difficult (or impossible) to find a direct matching part.  In such cases adding a remote volume pot may be the only solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing to do is flip the board over and make sure that somebody hasn&#039;t bridged pins 1 and 2 of connector 10J4, as shown here.  If it has been bridged, remove the solder bridge and solder the pins independently to the board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0762.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Taking a reading across volume pot legs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0763.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Taking a reading across volume pot legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Take a resistance reading across the existing volume potentiometer&#039;s legs.  If you get a reading above 4K ohms, the potentiometer is not mostly shorted and will not require its leg to be cut as detailed below.  (i.e. you may skip that step below.)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This potentiometer is not mostly shorted and could be left un-cut.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0764.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Cutting the volume pot&#039;s left leg.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0765.jpg|300px|thumb|right|After cutting volume pot&#039;s left leg.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the previous resistance reading reads less than 4K ohms, then one leg of the potentiometer &#039;&#039;&#039;must&#039;&#039;&#039; be cut.  (This one was cut for the sake of demonstration.)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the cut, the potentiometer should look similar to this.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0766.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Jumper added across volume pot legs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0767.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Replacement potentiometer.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;In all cases, a jumper must be added to the back side of the board to bypass what is left of the old potentiometer.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A new 5k-ohm, audio (logarithmic) taper potentiometer must be sourced.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0768.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Wiring of new potentiometer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0769.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Wiring of 10P4.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Here a radio shack 271-1720 potentiometer was used.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three wires must be run between the potentiometer and 10P4, the plug that connects to 10J4.  The wires must then be connected to 10P4, as shown.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Plug the new 10P4 into 10J4, and the on-board volume pot will be bypassed with the new external pot.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===If All Else Fails===&lt;br /&gt;
You can source a replacement sound/speech board.  It may be more cost effective than sending out your sound boards to be fixed, especially as you may be able to sell the original boards to get back some of the initial outlay.  These are good quality products, the price isn&#039;t bad and they should last for many years to come.  James Kohout&#039;s [http://www.pinballpcb.com pinballpcb.com]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Solenoid Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Controlled Solenoids===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSPharoahExtraGround.jpg|300px|thumb|left|In addition to the ground braid being screwed to this post, a white wire with red stripe is also connected.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some Williams games provide ground for coils via an extra wire (white/red) that must be connected to the backbox ground stud as shown in the picture at left. If this wire is not connected, some coils will not work. An example is Pharaoh, which uses this path to ground for both &amp;quot;Magna Save&amp;quot; magnets and the hidden tomb coils.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: in the example picture, a nut has been used to replace the typical &amp;quot;wing nut&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special Note Regarding Coin Lockout Coil and Free Play====&lt;br /&gt;
When some games (perhaps all games but at least Flash using Green ROMs) are set on &amp;quot;free play&amp;quot;, by setting adjustment 18 to zero, the coin lockout coil will not be turned on. This makes sense since when free play is enabled, coins should drop straight through the coin mech and into the coin return.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7SpecialSolenoidDrives.jpg ‎||left||thumb||300px||A closeup of the special solenoid circuitry showing transistors Q2 through Q12. Note that these transistors are not numbered row and column sequentially. Argh!]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7SpecialSolenoidDiagram.jpg ‎||right||thumb||300px||Diagram of Williams System 3-7 Driver Board Special Solenoid Section]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Special Solenoid drives switch power to ground for pop bumpers and sling shots. This &amp;quot;special&amp;quot; circuitry was implemented with the thought that the switch matrix could not be polled rapidly enough for these devices to be highly responsive. The drive transistors can be switched on either by a switch closure on the device, or under software control by the CPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Special Solenoid drive transistors, Q2 through Q12, are located just above the flipper power ground enable relay Z1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flaw in this circuitry is that a &amp;quot;one shot&amp;quot; was not implemented (ala Gottlieb System 80 Pop Bumper Driver Boards).  One shot circuitry only allows the associated solenoid to engage once per switch closure.  In the case of the Williams special solenoids, as long as the switch is tied to ground, the solenoid will be engaged.  As long as a device switch (pop bumper or sling) is closed, then coil power will be switched to ground continuously, eventually overheating and killing the associated TIP-122 (or TIP-102) transistor and / or the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is also a lack of &amp;quot;intelligence&amp;quot; in the software as was implemented eventually in WPC games. WPC games disable a device if the device&#039;s associated switch is sensed closed 10 times in succession without sensing any other switch closure. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Arc Suppression Resistor/Capacitor for Special Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
See also: [[#Wetting_Current_Resistor.2FCapacitor_for_Special_Solenoids|Wetting Current Resistor/Capacitor for Special Solenoids]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While a certain amount of current is necessary to help keep contacts clean, too much current can result in arcing when a switch is opened, which over time, can cause pitting and erode the contacts. To prevent this, an RC network is placed across the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the contacts in an arc suppression circuit open, the applied voltage is placed across the capacitor and not the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The capacitor charges at a rate faster than the contacts open which prevents an arc from forming across the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
When the contacts close, the inrush current from the charged capacitor and source can be substantially higher than the contacts can safely conduct, causing the contacts to deteriorate. This is why it is important to have a resistor in series with the capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
The resistor acts as a current limiter which reduces the inrush current by a significant amount. The arc produced at the contact closure is greatly reduced, thus extending the service life of the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reference: https://testguy.net/content/362-Arc-suppression-circuits &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Wetting Current Resistor/Capacitor for Special Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System4SpoonSwitch.jpg  ‎||left||thumb||300px||A resistor/capacitor connected across a pop bumper spoon switch.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RCNetworkSystem4.jpg ‎||right||thumb||300px||The schematic for the circuit as implemented for slingshot switches.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a 22uf capacitor and a 100ohm resistor, themselves connected in series, wired across special solenoid switches to provide a minimum &amp;quot;wetting current&amp;quot; across the switch contacts. This implementation also provides some measure of &amp;quot;electrical debouncing&amp;quot; of the switch. In the image at left, the black wire is coil power from the power supply. The orange wire is the path back to ground via a driver board special solenoid drive transistor. The green and white wires are switch matrix wires for the &amp;quot;scoring switch&amp;quot;. A 1N4004 switch isolation diode is used just like any other switch matrix switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wetting_current&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The special solenoid switch contacts are pulled high to 5 VDC through a 4.7K ohm resistor on the driver board. When the special solenoid switch closes, this voltage is shunted to ground resulting in a current through the contacts of approximately 1 mA. This very low &amp;quot;wetting current&amp;quot; is insufficient to keep the contact surfaces clean and free from dirt and oxides. An RC network is placed across the contacts to increase the wetting current and help break through any dirt or oxidation that has formed on the contact surfaces. When the contacts are open, the capacitor charges to 5 VDC through the 4.7K and 100 ohm resistors in series. When the contacts close, the capacitor discharges through the contacts and the 100 ohm resistor, resulting in a momentary peak current of approximately 50 mA. This discharge wetting current is sufficient to burn off any surface film that has built up on the contacts. Once the contacts open again, the capacitor begins charging again and effectively extending the contact closure time. This also provides some amount of electrical debouncing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Lamp Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===General Illumination Lamps===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PowerSupplyBurn.jpg||left||thumb||300px||An extreme example of high current damage to the general illumination traces of a System 7 power supply.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest weaknesses of the System 7 board set (starting with the later run of Black Knight) is the general illumination PCB connection. The configuration of that connection evolved from a two pin Molex connector into four (two for AC in, two for AC return) 18 gauge wires soldered directly to the board and connected to the transformer secondary with a 4-pin Molex connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Controlled Lamps (Lamp Matrix)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One source of problems with the lamp matrix can be the 27 ohm 3 watt resistors used for the lamp columns.  These resistors put out a &#039;&#039;&#039;ton&#039;&#039;&#039; of heat!  In some extreme instances, they can get so hot that they will literally melt the solder which holds them to the driver board, and fail off the board.  It is best to replace these resistors with 27 ohm 5 watt resistors.  The 5 watt variants can dissipate the heat a little better.  When replacing these resistors, make certain to allow enough space under them to allow for air cooling.  Even though it is best to use higher wattage resistors, they still put out a fair amount of heat. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=350px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 3-7 Driver Board Lamp Matrix Resistors&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wmsdriver_heatdamagedresistors.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Old resistors in questionable condition due to overheating.  Note these are 3 watt resistors as shipped by WMS.  Later boards used 5 watt versions.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Using a pencil to allow proper spacing of the resistors from the driver board.  One by one, place the legs of the resistors through the circuit board, and bend the legs over.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Flip the board over, and allow the resistors to &amp;quot;hang&amp;quot; off the board.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors After.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;New resistors soldered on the board with ample air flow beneath them.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ResistorRaising.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Another method of raising the resistors. Be sure to remove the cardboard when complete.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem3-7LampMatrixResistorsRaised.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Side view of resistors raised with ample air flow beneath them.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Testing the Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a generic [[media:13-lampwiring.pdf|Lamp Matrix Diagram]] which you can refer to for testing the lamp matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Reducing heat by replacing the TIP-42 lamp drive transistors and eliminating the 27 ohm current limiting resistors====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. The TIP42 transistors are bipolar PNP transistors, and require a lot of drive current on the base. The current through the 27 ohm resistors does not even go to lamps, just to the base. The issue starts when the 40 pin interface connector becomes faulty. If the lamp scan update is not received by the driver board, it will sit on one selected column of lamps.. and promptly burn one 27 ohm resistor off the board, possibly burning a hole in the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first method below is simpler to implement, but the second method is included, as it has been implemented for many years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the first upgrade method, replace the 8 TIP42 transistors with the darlington version, which require much less current. Get 8 TIP125 transistors, and replace the 8 original transistors, being careful to keep them oriented the same way. Masking tape can keep all 8 lined up while soldering. The second step is to remove all 8 of the 27 ohm resistors, and replace them with 10K 1/4W resistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The second method uses modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By using a &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; circuit with two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half, the MOSFET will be driven with 9 VDC Vgs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys3-7_Lamp_FETs_Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-7 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q63, Q65, Q67, Q69, Q71, Q73, Q75, Q77&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R149-R156&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistors R141-R148&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-7FETs.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Another implementation of 1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys3-7_1K_Resistor_Lamp_FETs_Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Closeup of 1 kohm resistors added to solder side of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pay close attention when adding the 1 Kohm resistors to the solder side of the driver board on heavily burnt / delaminated boards.  The resistor leg and / or the end of resistor leg comes within close proximity of the same column or adjacent column traces.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7DriverFETModAlternate.jpg ‎|300px|left|thumb|Another implementation of 1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board. This implementation requires less resistor leg bending and hence, a much easier install.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7FETFrontSideOnlyMod.jpg ‎|300px|right|thumb|A &amp;quot;component side only&amp;quot; implementation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Victor, Pinsider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Yet more ways to efficiently add the voltage dividing resistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Flash Lamp Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3-7 flash lamps (and System 9/11 also) are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 3-7 (and 11) Warming Board Implementation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:FPWarming.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Firepower warming board. The 330ohm resistor has clearly failed. This board is connected to the game wiring differently than Gorgar and is not factory, yet it works. The red wires are power. It&#039;s difficult to see in this pic but a yellow wire is also connected to the red wires. That yellow wire connects to two flashlamps in series. The other yellow wire returns from those flashlamps and is connected to the 1ohm and 330ohm resistors. Power finds ground through the 330ohm resistor and the black wire. This forms the &amp;quot;warming circuit&amp;quot;. Power also finds ground through the 1ohm resistor, the brown/violet wire and the driver board drive transistor.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:FirePowerWarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Firepower warming board. The 330ohm resistor has been replaced. This board is also connected to the game wiring differently than Gorgar and is not factory, yet it works. The two yellow wires connect to two flashlamps in series. Red is flashlamp power. Black is ground. The remaining wire is a path to ground via the drive transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GorgarWarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Gorgar warming board. The two yellow wires connect to two flashlamps in series. Red is flashlamp power. Black is ground. The remaining brown/violet wire is a path to ground via the drive transistor. This warming board wiring matches the schematics and corresponds to factory wiring.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WarmingResistorSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Warming Resistor circuit shown in Stellar Wars schematics. Note the two #89 lamps wired in series. They are dimly lit with power from the red wire, through the 1 ohm resistor, through the lamps, through the 330 ohm resistor, and then to ground. They will fully light when the drive transistor that services the GRY-BLK wire is switched on, providing a low resistance path to ground and effectively removing the 330 ohm resistor from the circuit.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The diagram at left shows the physical connections to be made by the warming board. The schematic snippet at right is from Stellar Wars (System 4) and accurately depicts connections. The schematic contained in Gorgar is not correct for this circuit. Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Switch Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WARNINGS:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Never use a file, sandpaper, or anything more abrasive than an old business card to clean gold flashed switches. Doing so will remove the gold flashing and permanently ruin the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
*Never adjust switches with the game powered on. It is far too easy to short the switch, or your adjustment tool, to adjacent power (lamps or solenoids) and damage the switch matrix circuitry on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only switches that can be filed are tungsten switches which are both materially and physically quite different from gold flashed switches. In a System 3-7 game, the only tungsten switches are the cabinet flipper buttons and the flipper mechanism end-of-stroke switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tungsten cabinet flipper switches and end-of-stroke switches &amp;quot;arc&amp;quot; and will become blackened (or whitened) and pitted over time. Once this happens, the resistance between the switch pair increases, which reduces electric current, which reduces coil power, which reduces flipper strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switches vary from game to game, most are standard for WMS System 3-7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A few of the common switches are listed here:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; |System 3-7 Switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Common use&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|SW-1A-118 || Spinner Blade switch&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-124 || Rollover Lanes (inlanes/outlanes as well)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-130-1 || Switch Rightmost on Ball Runway (Ball Locks, with round white nylon piece on leaf end)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-136   || 2nd Ball Runway Switch (typical, depending on game)  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-137   || 3rd Ball Runway Switch (typical, depending on game)  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-138   || Shooter Lane Switch&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-139   || Lane Change Switch (can use SW-1A-150, usually stacked to right flipper or right EOS)&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These were used throughout the Williams games: &lt;br /&gt;
Examples are for the above include System 3, System 4 (Flash), System 6(a) (Firepower and Alien Poker), System 7 (Black Knight).  Some appear on F-14 Tomcat (’87) and further, even after most Ball Ramp switches had changed over to micro switches.  Black knight also used micro switch kits, which Williams provided as a field replacement kit for operators.  Drop Targets also had factory micro-switch adapters fitted later to make them more reliable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Switch Assembly Note&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;:  The Williams factory (or more accurately their suppliers) assembled many switches so one of the blades was facing the wrong way.  It should have two gold contacts facing each other, where in fact one blade faces so that the rough-sided rivet is making contact.  If you have an intermittent switch, it can be worth the time to de-solder it and remove from the game and then carefully pry the switch stack apart and reassemble the switch so the gold contacts face toward each other.  Keep the exact order of spacers and just reverse the one blade.  While there, carefully clean the switch contacts with naptha and a clean cloth.  Again, please don&#039;t use emery (or files) on these switch points!  Once the gold has worn, they form &amp;quot;dead spots&amp;quot; and won&#039;t work reliably.  Another symptom of the misassembled switch stacks is multiple switch closures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How the Switch Matrix Works===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First of all, a switch is usually an electro-mechanical device with moving parts.  This includes leaf blade switches, tilt switches (where the ring is fixed and the plumb bob is the moving part of the switch) and micro-switches.  When a mechanical switch closes the contacts tend to oscillate before coming to rest.  It literally &#039;bounces&#039; several times before remaining closed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU could see the rapid open/close events as multiple switch closures, so there is usually some &#039;debounce logic&#039; built into switch matrix reading programs.  The CPU sees a switch closure and then &#039;checks back&#039; to see if it remained closed as few milliseconds later.  If it is closed, the CPU processes the event once, scoring the correct value or in some cases triggering a solenoid to fire. In the case of Williams 3-7 games, the switch debouncing for normal switches is done at the software level; unlike other contemporary manufacturers&#039; method, Williams&#039; software is more sophisticated in that the definition of switches include the ability to treat a switch as fast-response (example: spinner switch), normal response (lane rollovers - longer &#039;ignore time&#039; to prevent duplicate reads on a slow traveling ball), and the longest time (trough switches - where the ball would travel over the first 2 switches on a multiball machine, you would not want those to react unless a ball were truly in the trough).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As an aside, an optical switch (or opto) has no moving parts and so doesn&#039;t suffer from mechanical switch &#039;bounce&#039;.  (An optical switch can suffer from electronic switch bounce - many rapid activations per second - which is why they usually utilize circuitry known as a Schmitt Trigger to lower the probability of debounce errors). It also shouldn&#039;t need adjustment or in theory wear out as quickly as say a micro-switch. However, an opto needs additional circuits and is not as simple to work on or replace as other switch types.  Although you can not see an infrared transmitter with you naked eye, you can look at it with a digital camera. Optos were never used in System 3-7 games, although they were engineered and prototyped just at the end of System 7. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring up every switch separately with multiple wires running to the backbox would be expensive in the amount of wiring and in the number of inputs required to the game&#039;s logic.  Rather than do that, the engineers designed a switch matrix with 8 column wires and 8 row wires, creating a &#039;matrix&#039; of 8x8 giving a total of 64 possible switches.  Not all of these switch positions are used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first column of the switch matrix (COL 1) is dedicated to the same switches on the System 3-7 games.  You can check in a manual, but these will be the cabinet tilts, the coin switches which sense coin drops, the credit button (to start a game) and the high score reset which is also in the cabinet (on the coin door).  In order from row 1 through row 8, they are the plumb bob tilt, ball roll tilt, credit button, right coin chute, center coin chute, left coin chute, slam tilt, and high score reset button.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the most part other switches will be on the playfield (exceptions could be a lane change or magnasave button/switch). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So how is the switch matrix read by the MPU?  It uses the most useful Peripheral I/O device in this pinball era, the Motorola 6821 PIA (earlier this was the MC6820 PIA).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6821 is made up of two 8 bit ports, one port is known as &#039;Port A&#039; and the other &#039;Port B&#039;. Any of the 16 pins can be configured as inputs or outputs.  That&#039;s exactly what&#039;s needed to drive our Switch Matrix!  An 8-way output port B to &#039;send&#039; (or strobe) down the Columns to the switches, and an 8-way input port A to &#039;read&#039; the Rows from the switches.  The Columns are known commonly as &#039;Drives&#039; or &#039;Strobes&#039; and the Rows are known as &#039;Returns&#039; for this reason.  In a similar way (an 8x8 matrix) another PIA is used for the Lamp Matrix.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch matrix PIA is at IC11 on the Driver Board (also called PIA II).  This PIA doesn&#039;t drive the switch matrix directly from it&#039;s TTL output pins. There are +5v powered &#039;pull-up&#039; resistors and 4 IC&#039;s which act as drivers/buffers helping to protect the PIA from damage if the switch matrix is shorted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
;Two 7406 (Hex Inverter / Buffer with open collector HV outputs) is used to &#039;drive&#039; the Columns.  &lt;br /&gt;
:A 7406 or 74LS06 will work and are common parts.&lt;br /&gt;
;Two 4049 (or 14049 &amp;quot;CMOS Hex Inverter / Buffer) is used to &#039;read&#039; the Rows. &lt;br /&gt;
:The MC14049 or CD4049UBCN are common examples, although any 14049 or 4049 14-leg DIP will work.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;(Hex in this context refers to six inverters contained in the one IC package.  It&#039;s nothing to do with the computer (or math) Hex meaning of &#039;base 16&#039;.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU writes to the output port of the PIA driving column 1, then the return input port is saved, holding the status of all 8 rows in one byte. The program then &#039;looks&#039; at each of the rows 1-8 in quick succession.  It checks to see if the signal is getting through on the row that&#039;s currently being read.  Think of it as an 8 bit answer for that column showing which switches in that column are closed.  Say 00010001 returned would mean switches at C1,R4 and C1,R8 are closed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So for every &#039;drive&#039; down a column, the machine does 8 &#039;reads&#039; of the rows. Then the CPU moves on and drives column 2, looking again at each of the rows 1-8.  It continues through all of the remaining columns in this way.  This is done very rapidly by the CPU, strobing the whole matrix looping over and over many times a second.  Because it&#039;s so fast, even multiple switch closures are rarely missed, in fact as mentioned above it has to debounce the results to obtain an accurate result.  Williams&#039; operating system software on machines from at least system 6 up through system 11 have differing debounce values depending on the type of switch, allowing greater sensitivity on certain types of switches, and desensitizing others (such as lock or trough switches).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The diodes on every switch help to steer the drives only to the row that&#039;s being read and not back into other parts of the matrix.  That&#039;s why good diodes on switches are so important, as they must only allow current to flow in one direction: &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;from&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; column &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;to&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; row.  Essentially that&#039;s how the switch matrix reads switch closures. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This [https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_switch_matrix.html article] by Aeneas describing a later game&#039;s switch matrix may be useful as a different explanation with a diagram. Transistors can be used on the drives (as with modern games like DE or Stern ), different buffer chips can be used, but the basic switch matrix design hasn&#039;t changed over the years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally a warning about protecting the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;nothing&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; will protect the switch matrix IC&#039;s and PIA if (for example) the +50v solenoid voltage is shorted into the matrix. This happens if the &#039;lane change&#039; switch is attached in a stack on the flipper mech and shorted to the EOS switch.  In later designs the &#039;lane change&#039; was moved to be stacked with the flipper buttons (nearly as bad) or to a separate button which was a better design.  Be very careful if working under the playfield &#039;&#039;&#039;not to short the solenoid or lamp power into a switch&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It can be a lot of work to repair the damage done to the driver board, so be careful with you screwdriver and loose solenoid power wiring.  Most people who have been repairing games long enough learned the hard way, and won&#039;t work under the playfield with the power on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Switches===&lt;br /&gt;
There are a few switches that are dedicated, and not part of the switch matrix.  The coin door Advance and Auto/Up Manual/Down switches, which let you start diagnostic tests when the switch matrix is faulty.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, there are a maximum of 6 special solenoid switches, which directly connect to the solenoid logic on the driver board. When Williams first designed these games, they were worried that the CPU couldn&#039;t always &#039;keep up&#039; with the ball hits to the pop bumpers or slingshots.  So during game play the switches on the playfield fire the special solenoids directly from the playfield.  These usually include the spoon switches on the pop bumpers and slingshot stand-up switches.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All pop bumpers and slingshots have a secondary switch which is part of the switch matrix.  It closes when the coil is fired and tells the CPU to increment scoring and in some cases to trigger sounds for these devices.  The scoring switch is mechanically closed, by the &#039;elbow&#039; of the slingshot arm or by the bakelite yoke connected to the pop bumper ring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Confusingly, the CPU can also fire the 6 special switches from PIA lines for the diagnostic tests, but these PIA signals are never used during game play.  If all these solenoids work during diagnostic tests, but not in game play it points to the switch inputs or the 7408s at IC6/7.  It won&#039;t be the 7402s at IC8/9.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I have seen a game that worked in play perfectly, but the diagnostics could not fire two of the pop bumper solenoids during tests.  This was a Switch Matrix PIA with faulty output at pins 19 (CB2) and 39 (CA2), other than that the PIA was working correctly and so it could still be used to drive the Switch Matrix.  If a switch row or column went out, the PIA would then have to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;&#039;Here is a list of the PIAs and where the pins are that fire the &#039;special solenoids&#039; during diagnostics:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot; |Special Solenoid Diag. PIAs&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!ST# &lt;br /&gt;
!PIA&lt;br /&gt;
!CHIP&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin #&lt;br /&gt;
!Location / Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1   ||III ||IC10  Lamps     ||19    ||Middle PIA   on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2   ||III ||IC10  Lamps     ||39    ||Middle PIA   on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3   ||II  ||IC11  SW Matrix ||19    ||Left PIA  on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4   ||II  ||IC11  SW Matrix ||39    ||Left PIA  on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5   ||IV  ||IC 5  Solenoids ||39    ||Right PIA on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6   ||I   ||IC18  Displays  ||19    ||Via 1J1-26 on CPU Board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing the Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
To test the switch matrix in the game, first remove both Switch Matrix connectors on the top right of the driver board. J2 is Column (green wires) and J3 is Row (white wires).  Then run a switch test from diagnostics, you should get no switches being sensed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use an alligator test lead as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
* Connect one end of the test lead&#039;s alligator clip to the column pin, starting at column 1.  That&#039;s the bottom pin of J2. &lt;br /&gt;
* Then use the other end of the test lead to touch the appropriate row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
* Start at the bottom pin of J3, which is row 1.  You should see switch #1 indicated (R1C1).&lt;br /&gt;
* Move the probe to the next pin up on J3, which is row #2.  You should see switch #2 indicated (R2C1).&lt;br /&gt;
* When you got to the top of the row pins, move the clip end to COL #2 (up one pin) and start again with row #1.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Activate each switch in turn by connecting the appropriate 2 male pins on the CPU board with your test lead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using your switch matrix chart from the manual as a guide, you may find the faults as your game &amp;quot;sees&amp;quot; on the same switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you get an error in sequence, more than one switch registers at a time or you are missing a row or column - then you &#039;&#039;&#039;know the problem must be on the MPU board&#039;&#039;&#039;.  You can either try to fix it or send the board out for repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the above test works correctly, meaning all switches register correctly then your problem must be the wiring or on the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing the Switch Matrix PIA===&lt;br /&gt;
No section on the switch matrix is complete without mentioning the switch PIA.  That IC and 4 buffer IC&#039;s are the only logic in the switch matrix.  The complete instructions for testing all the PIAs are beyond the scope of this section. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only sure-fire way to test the PIA is with the &#039;Leon Borre test ROM&#039; in the MPU board.  You do this by taking the MPU and Driver boards out of the game and putting them on the bench.  This will also let you trace back through the circuit to find a fault more easily, and it&#039;s not as hard as you may think.  It will also exercise the CPU memory and test all the PIAs on the Driver Board, not just the switch matrix PIA.  Here are his excellent instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Leon_Borre_Repairing_Williams_System_3-6_CPU_Boards | Leon&#039;s Repair Pages for WMS System 3-6 games]] including a free test ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Leon_Borre_WMS_System_7_Repair | Leon&#039;s Repair Pages for WMS System 7 games]] including a free test ROM.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These Belgium guys are knowledgeable about pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Should any of the chips in the switch matrix prove to be faulty, be particularly cautious in replacing them. They have a greater than usual tendency for lifted traces and pads when desoldering. Heat rising from the lamp matrix resistors has a tendency to not only cause these chips to fail, but also to loosen the bond between the circuit board and the solder pads and traces on this area of the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix Components===&lt;br /&gt;
Final thoughts about components which make up the switch matrix. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The passive components:&lt;br /&gt;
On the driver board there is an RC network, made up of 16 x 4.7K pull-up resistors that you can measure with a DMM. Tolerance is not critical, but should measure between 4.5K to 5K which is about a +/- 5% range.&lt;br /&gt;
There are also 16 x capacitors (470pF at 50v, ceramic) these should not measure as a short, if in doubt just replace them.&lt;br /&gt;
And 8 x 1K ohm resistors at the switch inputs (rows) at R196-R203 these can not be open or shorted and must be around 1K each.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can see the above chips inverting signals with the game running and a logic probe.  Check if signals look weak or suspect. If you see a signal on the input side and then nothing inverted on the output side, then that&#039;s your problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |Beyond that IC15-18, which are the Switch Matrix inverting buffer / drivers:&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Inverting Pairs. Leg a to b listed as a,b&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch Row/Col Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Part Number /Eqivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC15 ||3,2 7,6 14,15 9,10 in that order ||Rows 1-4 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC16 ||3,2 7,6 14,15 9,10 in that order ||Rows 5-8 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC17 ||2,1 6,5 12,13 8,9  in that order ||Columns 1-4 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC18 ||2,1 6,5 12,13 8,9  in that order ||Columns 5-8 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot; |J2 (Column) and J3 (Row) connector pins: &lt;br /&gt;
:&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Connector&lt;br /&gt;
!Male connector Pins&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch Row/Col Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Location&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Part Number /Eqivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J2 ||pins 1-3 and pin 5 ||Columns 5-8 ||IC18 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J2 ||pins 9-6 ||Columns 1-4 ||IC17 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J3 ||pin 1 and pins 3-5 ||Rows 5-8 ||IC16 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J3 ||pins 9-6 ||Rows 1-4 ||IC15 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Except for the 6821 PIA which is getting harder to find, all the switch matrix components are readily available.&lt;br /&gt;
However there are acceptable substitutes on the market.  Any of the following part numbers are drop-in replacements for the 6821.&lt;br /&gt;
68A21, 68B21, 6521, W65C21N.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Wire Jumpers on System 7 Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ZeroOhmJumpersS3-7.jpg ‎|300px|left|thumb|A Williams System 3-7 Driver Board, retrofitted with wire jumpers at R04-R211]]&lt;br /&gt;
Williams removed some resistors from the switch matrix inputs and used wire jumpers instead. This happened from the start of System 7.  The first thing to do with a driver board (which may not be from that game) is to measure these resistors and make sure you have the the driver board set up for the correct game.  &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;While a board with wire jumpers can be used in System 4-6 games, using a board with resistors in a System 7 game will cause problems.&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;  Replacing the 330 ohm resistors with wire jumpers helps with switch sensitivity and with sensing more than one switch closure at the same time.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On driver boards from Black Knight and later System 7 games, there should be 8 wire jumpers (or zero ohm resistors) used on the switch matrix at positions W9-W16. These are located on the upper right hand corner of the Driver Board just to the left of J2, the top right connector which is the switch matrix column drive. To the left are two columns of 7 resistors each, the second column should be the wire jumpers, along with the top position of the next column to the left (column with 2 resistors only).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 4-6 Driver boards, (games like Alien Poker, Firepower and earlier SS games) were released with 330 ohm resistors (orange, orange, brown) in these 8 locations. Starting with Black Knight and later (System 7 games) they are called R204-R211, and are zero ohm resistors (usually a tan body with one black stripe). You can replace or jumper over them with wire leaving the resistors in place. In all other aspects the driver boards are identical, so it&#039;s easy to convert between the two. This is why they are usually known as &#039;&#039;System 3-7 driver boards&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before you start to replace parts on the driver board, be sure your playfield switches are working and the diodes are good. You need to unsolder one end of the diode from the switch to be able to test it correctly with a DMM on the diode setting.  While you are there, clean the switch with a business card soaked in naptha or contact cleaner sprayed on the business card (with the game off, contact cleaner is flammable!) See if any blackness comes off on the card.  You can also gently wipe the contacts until shiny with a Q-tip or the corner of a clean rag dipped in isopropyl alcohol.  A pencil eraser also works well to clean switch contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Game Specific Problems and Fixes=&lt;br /&gt;
==Black Knight==&lt;br /&gt;
===Magna Save Performance===&lt;br /&gt;
There are 2 under playfield relays used to shunt high voltage to the magna saves. These are high voltage contacts and should be filed for maximum conductivity and power for the magnets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Magna Save Magnets Not Working===&lt;br /&gt;
If the magnets are not working in test or game, make certain that the white-red wire is tied to the ground screw in the backbox.  This white-red wire is fed from the relay coils, which enables each appropriate magnets.&lt;br /&gt;
===Fast moving ball flies through upper lock===&lt;br /&gt;
Mount a shooter lane bracket underneath the plastic of the upper ball lock trough.  With creative bending, all ball motion will stop on entering the trough.  The ball will drop down ensuring credit is awarded for the lock.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Ball Lock Scoring Bug===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a software bug in version L-3 and L-4 where instead of getting 5000 points with other balls in the lock you get 10,000, scored in increments of 5000.  There is no current fix for this; it may have been intentional for the additional score (usually picked up by another player) but probably an oversight by the original programmer.  There is a footnote in the operator&#039;s manual referencing this.  It is unknown what the original intention was.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Right Ramp Gate Adjustment===&lt;br /&gt;
It is erroneous to have the mystery rollunder gate score in one direction only; the switch should activate both going UP to the upper playfield as well as DOWN to the lower playfield.  It can be a strategy in multiball to let it roll down the switch, multiplying the mystery value.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Firepower==&lt;br /&gt;
===Firepower Won&#039;t Start a Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Firepower and other multi-ball games are infamous for being stubborn if there aren&#039;t three balls in the trough, or if one of the trough switches isn&#039;t closed.  Additionally, multiball games usually have a shooter lane switch.  If MORE than 3 switches are closed, the game will also not start.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My Firepower, in particular, is frequently upset if the right-most switch isn&#039;t closed, and that switch has an unusual actuator on it that doesn&#039;t work as well as a common rollover actuator. That switch is a little mangled, so it&#039;s the one that is most problematic. [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 18:12, 21 May 2014 (CDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Time Warp==&lt;br /&gt;
===Time Warp loses background sound occasionally===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a software bug in Time Warp where the background sound (if enabled) will go mute at ball launch.  This happens whenever the ball kicker launches twice, or when a ball drains without scoring any points.  There is a fix for this identified as Time Warp L-3 however it is not officially sanctioned by Williams and so is not readily available.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements=&lt;br /&gt;
==Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
* Displays&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://xpinpinball.com/product-category/xpin-displays/ XPin]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=dis326 Rottendog 6-Digit]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=dis079 Rottendog 7-Digit]&lt;br /&gt;
* MPU&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 Rottendog] (no longer supports System 7 games)&lt;br /&gt;
* Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=wdp3211a Rottendog]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms8345/ XPin]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NOTE: [http://pinballpcb.com/ Kohout Enterprises] has begun manufacturing circuit boards again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Repair Logs=&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Unreliable +5V==&lt;br /&gt;
A Firepower won&#039;t boot consistently.  It was reliable before it was moved in a box truck.  +5V supply measures low.  For some reason, I decided the problem had to be the diodes in the power supply and replaced them, which didn&#039;t help.  I replaced the +5V cap in the power supply, C16, and all was well.  (Thirty year old filter caps are all absolutely suspect.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once I had the cap loose, I discovered I could shake it and hear it rattling inside.  Presumably, the jelly roll of electrolytic was dried out.  Shaking it might have the internal components in the right place, but probably not.  A few miles in the back of the truck was enough to wreck it, more permanently before.  The game has been very well-behaved since replacing the cap with a new one. [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 18:12, 21 May 2014 (CDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Unreliable +5V, part 2==&lt;br /&gt;
All classic pinball boards rely on 5V logic. Most data sheets indicate 5V, +/- 0.25V. Always check the 5V on the power supply, AND on the MPU board. Note that there may be 5.2V on the power supply, but 4.8V on the MPU. This is too low.. small pulses can pull the 4.8 below 4.75 fairly easily and cause resets. If there is less than 5V on the MPU board, but the voltage is right on the supply, try checking voltage drops at each individual connector pin. One will usually find that pins will have built up tarnish, or heat has turned them grey or brown.. this is the tip off that the connector needs to be replaced. I know, groan.. it can be a pain, but replace the header in the circuit board. Make sure to remove or clip the key pin. Then replace the connector on the wires (female) with crimp and poke type. Use a ratchet crimper, and tug on them after each crimp to prove that they are good. Replace the wires one by one.. clip, crimp, poke.. copy each wire position from the original one one at a time, and keep in mind that the connectors have a ramp and go on one way. Replace and power up, and then go back to the meter, and verify that the voltage on the MPU board has risen..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CPU will not start==&lt;br /&gt;
This happens to involve a Type 2 sound board, but it could apply to an MPU board or a Type 1 sound board.  The reset pin voltage (CPU Pin 40) was low and would slowly climb after power on, but not enough to allow the CPU to start.  All components in the reset section were good, and replacement parts did not make any difference.  The problem was the sound board&#039;s PIA.  Its reset line was pulling down the voltage so much that the CPU would not start.  After replacing the PIA, the sound board booted and worked fine.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7&amp;diff=23038</id>
		<title>Williams System 3 - 7</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7&amp;diff=23038"/>
		<updated>2023-01-25T02:08:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Displays only showing even number */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Introduction=&lt;br /&gt;
Williams entered the [http://www.pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Glossary#Solid_State_.28SS.29 SS] or Solid State era with a conversion of a 1976 Williams [http://www.pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Glossary#Electro_Mechanical_.28EM.29 EM] or Electro Mechanical pinball game called [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4828 Grand Prix].  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 1&#039;&#039;&#039; is considered to be the Solid State version of &#039;&#039;Grand Prix&#039;&#039;.  It is thought that about 5 Grand Prix EM games were converted to SS prototypes using the new System 1 MPU Board and digital displays.  The computer was only used for accumulating and displaying the player scores.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB links: [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=5647 Grand Prix SS version]&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1072 Grand Prix EM version ]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 2&#039;&#039;&#039; was next, with a 10 unit run of another 1976 EM game called &#039;&#039;Aztec&#039;&#039;.  A working SS version is very rare.  Both System 1 &amp;amp; 2 occurred quickly after each other at the end of 1976.  Aztec SS was still a hybrid machine retaining the EM chime unit in the cabinet and a credit window with an EM numbered reel behind the backglass). Player scoring was still the only digital function at that time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB links: [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4828 Aztec SS version]&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=119 Aztec EM version ] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 3&#039;&#039;&#039; games were the first Williams SS production games, starting with &#039;&#039;[[Hot Tip]]&#039;&#039; in Nov. &#039;77 and ending with &#039;&#039;[[Disco Fever]]&#039;&#039; in Aug &#039;78.  There were based on the Motorola 6800 8-bit CPU and using a Motorola 6820 PIA (Peripheral Interface Adapter) to handle the Display I/O from the MPU board.  They also had three other 6820 PIAs on the Driver Board reading targets and other switches as inputs and controlling the insert Lamps and solenoids as outputs. Solenoid drives were mainly used for ball handling by firing coils, with a few triggering sound calls or a &#039;start of game&#039; tune.  This was the start of Williams using computers for game rules and settings.  At this point they designed an 8x8 Switch Matrix, an 8x8 Lamp Matrix and solenoids driven by Darlington transistors. This design remained virtually unchanged to the end of Williams System 7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During System 3 (&#039;&#039;[[Phoenix]]&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;[[Disco Fever]]&#039;&#039;) a memory protect circuit modification was added as to help protect CMOS RAM data during power up and power down of the game.  DIP switches were used to program game settings (such as # of balls per game, high score replays).&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 4&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Pokerino]]&#039;&#039; in Nov &#039;78 through to  &#039;&#039;[[Stellar Wars]]&#039;&#039; in Mar &#039;79, according to IPDB.com.  A notable game which outsold all of the other System 4 games combined with a production run of 19,505 was &#039;&#039;[[Flash]]&#039;&#039; (Steve Ritchie&#039;s first designed game for Williams).  During System 4, Williams  moved from using DIP switches to change game settings to having the game settings changed from the coin door switches.  The settings were still stored in battery protected CMOS RAM.  [ed Note: Citation needed]  A coin door interlock switch enforced that CMOS memory could not be modified unless the coin door had been opened by the operator.  Some of the game audits (coins accepted, total number of games played, etc.) still could not be changed without access to the MPU board behind the backglass.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Tri Zone]]&#039;&#039; in Jul &#039;79 to &#039;&#039;[[Scorpion]]&#039;&#039; in Jul &#039;80.  Two notable games from this era were from the end of &#039;79 and the beginning of &#039;80 &#039;&#039;[[Gorgar]]&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;[[Firepower]]&#039;&#039;.  Gorgar (14,000 produced) was the first talking pinball, and Firepower (17,410 produced) both talked and introduced the &#039;Lane Change&#039; and &#039;Multiball (tm)&#039; features to SS games.  Note that there had been Multiball play available in EM games, it just wasn&#039;t called Multiball (tm) until Firepower. and this is a common misunderstanding.  The features these games introduced became standards for almost all pinball games produced right up until today.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6a&#039;&#039;&#039; deserves to be mentioned here as it marked a transition to System 7.  The game &#039;&#039;[[Alien Poker]]&#039;&#039; from Oct &#039;80 used the Syatem 6a MPU board (which was not very different from System 6).  But it supported 7 digit scoring displays and a redesigned Master Display Driver board, located behind the backglass on the back of the &#039;Lamp Board&#039;.  It also used a special 4 digit &amp;quot;credit/match&amp;quot; display in the approximate position where the System 6 Master Display Driver had been showing the same information (on a 6 digit display, with 2 of the digits unused).  This new 7 digit scoring displays with a 4 digit credit/match display were then used in all the System 7 games (and System 9).&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 7&#039;&#039;&#039; games ran from &#039;&#039;[[Black Knight]]&#039;&#039; in Nov &#039;80 through to &#039;&#039;[[Star Light]]&#039;&#039; in Jun &#039;84.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IPDB link: [http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?mpu=4&amp;amp;qh=checked&amp;amp;ng=checked&amp;amp;sortby=date&amp;amp;searchtype=advanced Complete System 7 Game list] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Black Knight&#039;&#039; (13,075 produced) introduced a two level playing field and Magna-Save (tm) where the ball could be stopped from draining down the sides by pressing a cabinet button that activated an electromagnet.  &#039;&#039;Star Light&#039;&#039; (100 produced) was a &#039;boutique&#039; game by Williams&#039; production standards as the focus was on ramping up production for the first System 9 game Space Shuttle (7,000 units).  At least one Star Light game was made as the Prototype for System 9.   &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Further discussion of changes and good pictures of the backbox boards for System 3-7 games can be found here:&lt;br /&gt;
[http://tuukan.fliput.net/wms_en.html Tukkan.fliput.net]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Games=&lt;br /&gt;
==System 3==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hot Tip]]|| 11-1977 || 477 || Chimes ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Lucky Seven]]|| 03-1978 || 480 || Chimes ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[World Cup]]|| 05-1978 || 481 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Contact]]|| 05-1978 || 482 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Disco Fever]]|| 08-1978 || 483 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Used banana flippers&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 4==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards	&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Pokerino]]|| 10-1978 || 488 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-	&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Phoenix]]|| 11-1978 || 485 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Flash]]|| 01-1979 || 486 || Type 1 Sound || ||First game with continuous Background sound/Later games produced on System 6 platform&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Stellar Wars]]|| 03-1979 || 490 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||Widebody/Later games produced on System 6 platform&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 6==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Tri Zone]]|| 07-1979 || 487 || Type 1 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Time Warp]]|| 09-1979 || 489 || Type 1 Sound ||  || Used banana flippers for most of run.&lt;br /&gt;
|-	&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Gorgar]]|| 12-1979 || 496 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||First game with speech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Laser Ball]]|| 12-1979 || 493 || Type 1 Sound ||  || Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Firepower]]|| 02-1980 || 497 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  ||First SS Multiball (3 balls). First lane change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Blackout]]|| 06-1980 || 495 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  || First Williams game where a relay was used to turn general illumination on / off for effect.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Scorpion]]|| 07-1980 || 494 || Type 1 Sound || ||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 6A==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Algar]]|| 09-1980 || 499 || Type 1 Sound || 7 digit display board||Widebody&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Alien Poker]]|| 10-1980 || 501 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || 7 digit display board||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 7==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight]]|| 11-1980 || 500 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||First game with magnasave&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Jungle Lord]]|| 02-1981 || 503 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Pharaoh]]|| 05-1981 || 504 || Type 2 Sound w/ Speech || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Solar Fire]]|| 07-1981 || 507 || Type 2 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Barracora]]|| 09-1981 || 510 || Type 2 Sound ||  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hyperball]]|| 12-1981 || 509 || Type 2 Sound  ||Uses different driver board than pinball games ||Not a pinball - a flipperless game firing tiny pinballs&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Cosmic Gunfight]]|| 06-1982 || 502 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Varkon]]|| 09-1982 || 512 || Type 2 Sound || || Pinball in stand-up Video cabinet&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Warlok]]|| 10-1982 || 516 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Defender]]|| 12-1982 || 517 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Time Fantasy]]|| 03-1983 || 515 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Joust]]|| 04-1983 || 519 || Type 2 Sound || ||Two player head-to-head pinball&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Firepower II]]|| 08-1983 || 521 || Type 2 Sound || Uses 50v Flipper Power Supply Board ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Laser Cue]]|| 02-1984 || 520 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Star Light]]|| 06-1984 || 530 || Type 2 Sound || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Documentation=&lt;br /&gt;
==Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics==&lt;br /&gt;
Most manuals and ROM files can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:01-backbox-sys6.pdf|System 6 Backbox Wiring Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Catalogs==&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|1980 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/ltjq/#p=1 Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Tip, Lucky Seven, World Cup, Contact, Disco Fever, Phoenix, Flash, Tri-Zone, Pokerino, Time Warp, Stellar Wars, Laser Ball, Scorpion, Blackout, Gorgar, Firepower, Algar, Black Knight, Alien Poker, Cosmic Gunfight, Jungle Lord, Pharoah, Solar Fire, Hyperball, Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
|This catalog covers all system 3-6 games, and the first third of the system 7 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Service Bulletins==&lt;br /&gt;
Most service bulletins can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Instruction Cards==&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ Instruction Cards &amp;amp; Labels]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Fuses==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;text-align: center;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Williams System 3 - 7 Power Supply Fuse Ratings&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!System &lt;br /&gt;
!F1&lt;br /&gt;
!F2&lt;br /&gt;
!F3&lt;br /&gt;
!F4*&lt;br /&gt;
!F5&lt;br /&gt;
!F6&lt;br /&gt;
!F7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 15amp FB || 4amp SB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 4amp FB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 4amp FB || NA || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || 1/4amp SB || 2 1/2amp SB || 8amp FB || 10amp FB || 7amp SB || 7amp SB || NA&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The value of F4 does vary. Check the game manual for the correct rating. It&#039;s usually 10A for games with 2 flippers. Later System 7 games with a separate flipper power supply do not use F4.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==ROM Files==&lt;br /&gt;
Most manuals and ROM files can be found on IPDB.org for each specific game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/roms.html ROM Files]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The ROMs hosted on Planetary Pinball for World Cup has an issue. World Cup requires a [[#White_Flipper_ROM_Exceptions|special white flipper ROM specific to World Cup]], which [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2810 can be found on IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Combining System 3-6 Original ROMs Into a Single ROM at IC14===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6ROMConfig.jpg | thumb | left| 300px| A System 6 TriZone MPU, featuring combined ROM images at U14.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For all System 3-6 games, the ROMs that might be located at U26, U22, and U21 (left to right on the top ROM row) can be replaced with a single 2716 2kb ROM (or EPROM) at IC14 that contains the combined images. When doing so, jumper J3 should be IN, jumper J4 OUT. These jumpers are located just above the ROMs and to the right of IC15.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Diagnostic ROMs by Pincoder===&lt;br /&gt;
Free Diagnostic ROM images for Williams System 3-7 games can be found here: &lt;br /&gt;
* [https://pincoder.ca/ Pincoder Website]&lt;br /&gt;
They require the use of EPROM chips and a chip programmer. However, you can choose to skip sourcing EPROMs and the chip programmer by using the available [https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/ Pincoder Adapter] right out of the box. Simply plug it into the MPU board, select a test, and power on the game. Full documentation can be downloaded from the Pincoder website. The ROM images and the adapter are actively supported.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper ROMs===&lt;br /&gt;
The OS (Operating System) for a Williams pinball game is called the Flipper ROM.  Flipper ROMs with the same color label can be considered generic, although there is at least one exception where a &#039;custom&#039; White Flipper ROM was used &amp;quot;World Cup&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Game ROM can be considered the &#039;personality&#039; ROM, it provides the rules and objectives that are specific to that game&#039;s playfield layout.  It also maps the Lamps, Solenoid and Switch Matrix to their specific purpose for that game and controls how they are sequenced and timed.  Examples would be the &#039;attract mode&#039; lamp sequence or when sound / speech select calls are made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Because of large game production runs, Williams bought batches of Masked ROMs (fixed and not erasable) for the games.  This was cheaper at the time than using Eproms (UV erasable, with a small window) as Eproms were still fairly expensive in the 80&#039;s.  They used the same method for producing most of their Flipper, Game and Sound ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is sometimes a good idea to replace old masked ROMs with EPROMs, since the original masked ROMs are 30+ years old and as the legs blacken and tarnish, they will weaken and fall off. For a similar reason, many of the ROM sockets on the MPU boards will need to be replaced, especially any sockets bearing the words &#039;Scanbe&#039;, which are poor quality. Masked ROMs are very stable as they start life as all 1&#039;s and then the information is programmed by &amp;quot;burning&amp;quot; each selected bit open, like blowing a tiny fuse. This process is not reversible, and ROMs will rarely lose their programming over time, unless the remaining whisker-like &amp;quot;fuses&amp;quot; start to fail. The practice and term to &amp;quot;burn&amp;quot; ROMs carried over to other storage media, such as CDs and EPROMs, even though different technologies and processes were used to store the data. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper ROM Colors====&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used standard ROM files for System 3-7.  These two Flipper ROMs are located at IC17 and IC20.  Systems 3-6 use two 2716 or 2316 Eproms, while system 7 used a 2716 in IC20 and a 2532 in IC17 (a 2732 can be used at position IC17 after modifications are made to the board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROMs=====&lt;br /&gt;
White flipper ROMs were used in all System 3 games and two System 4 games...&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Tip&lt;br /&gt;
*Lucky 7&lt;br /&gt;
*World Cup&lt;br /&gt;
*Contact&lt;br /&gt;
*Disco Fever&lt;br /&gt;
*Pokerino (system 4)&lt;br /&gt;
*Phoenix (system 4)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
World Cup uses White Flipper ROMs, but the ROM in IC17 is unique. The MPU will not boot and run with the standard White flipper ROM. However, the World Cup White flipper ROM can be used in all other White Flipper ROM games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====White Flipper ROM Issues=====&lt;br /&gt;
When downloading ROM software for World Cup, be aware the code available directly from Planetary Pinball has known faults and will not work properly. Code available from IPDB generally is correct and functional. The issues with these games is as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
World Cup:  Provided with the standard IC17 Flipper Rom, not the unique one required for World Cup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lucky 7:    When the original 512 byte files were combined into a 2k file for IC14 Game Rom, blank areas were entered incorrectly. &lt;br /&gt;
This causes the machine to register a failed checksum test when attempting to enter settings via the dip switches. (Note: The copy on Planetary Pinball appears to have been corrected).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hot Tip:    When the original 512 byte files were combined into a 2k file for IC14, they were done out of order. (Note: The copy on Planetary Pinball appears to have been corrected).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Yellow Flipper ROMs==== &lt;br /&gt;
The yellow flipper ROMs were used in 2 games...&lt;br /&gt;
*Stellar Wars&lt;br /&gt;
*Flash (later production of Flash used Green flipper ROMs, which are preferred. The game ROM version must match the flipper ROM color)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Green Flipper ROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The green flipper ROMs were used in System 6 and 6A games from Tri Zone (Jul &#039;79) to Alien Poker (Oct &#039;80)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Tri Zone&lt;br /&gt;
*Time Warp&lt;br /&gt;
*Gorgar&lt;br /&gt;
*Laser Ball&lt;br /&gt;
*FirePower&lt;br /&gt;
*Blackout&lt;br /&gt;
*Scorpion&lt;br /&gt;
*Algar&lt;br /&gt;
*Alien Poker&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Green Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ted Estes developed a &amp;quot;divide by 10&amp;quot; ROM that allows /10 scoring for all 6 digit Green flipper ROM games with the exception of Algar and Alien Poker. These 2 games utilize an extension to the operating system ROM contained wholly in the game ROM which is incompatible with the Ted Estes hack (when enabled - with the hack disabled, the game works fine). Installing the hacked ROMs in these games isn&#039;t recommended since there may be other side effects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Alien Poker and Algar operating system extensions shift internal scoring before and after the normal routines. i.e. Internally, Alien Poker and Algar are 6 digit games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blue Flipper ROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
The blue fipper ROMs were used in all System 7 games, Black Knight (Dec &#039;80) and later...&lt;br /&gt;
*Black Knight&lt;br /&gt;
*Jungle Lord&lt;br /&gt;
*Pharoah&lt;br /&gt;
*Black Knight Limited Addition&lt;br /&gt;
*Solar Fire&lt;br /&gt;
*Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
*Hyperball&lt;br /&gt;
*Thunderball&lt;br /&gt;
*Cosmic Gunfight&lt;br /&gt;
*Varkon&lt;br /&gt;
*Warlock&lt;br /&gt;
*Defender&lt;br /&gt;
*Rat Race&lt;br /&gt;
*Time Fantasy&lt;br /&gt;
*Joust&lt;br /&gt;
*FirePower II&lt;br /&gt;
*Laser Cue&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Blue Flipper ROM Exceptions=====&lt;br /&gt;
Star Light (June &#039;84, 100 produced) which was the last System 7 game, appears to have non-standard Blue Flipper ROMs. For small production runs, games were supplied from the factory with EPROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Circuit Board Schematics and Assembly Drawings==&lt;br /&gt;
===Connectors===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media: Molex-Connectors-Firepower-1.1.pdf|System 3-7 Molex Connectors]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:08-masterdisplayboard-sys3-6.pdf|Display Diver Board Assembly Drawing]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:09-masterdisplaylogic-sys3-6.pdf|Display Driver Board Logic Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-7DriverBoardLayout.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-7 driver board layout]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:05-driverlogic-sys3-6.pdf|System 3-7 Driver Board Logic Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:04-driverboard-sys3-6.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Assembly Drawing]] (Note: The Tables for Solenoids, Switch Matrix and Lamp Matrix are examples for Firepower.  However the wiring colors and locations do not change from game to game. System 7 does not use Driver Solenoids to trigger sounds, and that is covered in the Sound Board section.)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_layout.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_schematics_1of2.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Schematics (1 of 2)]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys3-6_driver-board_schematics_2of2.pdf|System 3-6 Driver Board Schematics (2 of 2)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem3MPURevisionA.jpg ‎|left|thumb|300px|System 3 MPU IC Locator]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 MPU IC Identification Map.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 MPU adds only IC26 on the left side of the board, just above IC22 where the odd looking solder pads are.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-mpu-layout.jpg|System 3 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-mpu-schematic.jpg|System 3 MPU Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Williams_System-4_MPU_Layout.jpg|System 4 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:Williams_System-4_MPU_Schematic.jpg|System 4 MPU Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:03-cpulogic-sys6.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Logic Diagram]] (Note: Because IC9 and IC10 can be bypassed directly, this diagram is accurate for System 6a)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:02-cpuboard-sys6.pdf |System 6 MPU Board Assembly Drawing]] (Note: Because IC9 and IC10 can be bypassed directly, this diagram is accurate for System 6a)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_layout.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_schematics.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_mpu_bom.pdf|System 6 MPU Board Bill of Materials]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys7_mpu_schematics.pdf|System 7 MPU Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-6_power_supply_early_layout.jpg|Early System 3-6 Power Supply Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[media:wms-sys3-6_power_supply_early_schematics.jpg|Early System 3-6 Power Supply Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:Wms-sys3-6-powersupply-assembly.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Assembly Drawing]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_power-supply_layout.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Layout]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:wms-sys6_power-supply_schematics.pdf|System 3-6 Power Supply Board Schematics]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During the long run of System 3 through 7 games, Williams used two basic board types, designated Type 1 and Type 2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 1 Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:WMS_Sys3-6_Type_1_Sound Board.pdf|System 3-4 Type 1 Sound Board Assembly Drawing and Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 2 Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The [[Media:Wms-sys6-7-soundspeech-assembly.pdf|System 6-7 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Boards Assembly Drawing]], crafted by Phil Butcher is a great debugging resource.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.firepowerpinball.com/ Documentation for Firepower]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Errors==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
* Note that the parts bill of materials for some (perhaps all) system 7 games call out a 2N6087 power transistor for Q5. This is most likely a typo. A 2N6057 or 2N6059 should be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Technical Info=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Proprietary Numbers on Chips==&lt;br /&gt;
Some Bally IC chips are marked with proprietary Williams part numbers, and no other markings are present.  Below is a list of some of the most common chips found on Williams boards, and the more commonly referred to chip.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-8987 - 6800 CPU chip, Motorola part #SC44216P.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-9150 - 6808 CPU chip&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-8972 - 6820/21 PIA chip, Motorola part #SC44067P.&lt;br /&gt;
*5A-9903 - 6810 RAM chip&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Backbox Overview==&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams backbox is similar for most of the games in the System 3-7 games. System 3-6 remained fairly similar in their backbox layouts. System 7 introduced a number of changes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* During the beginning of System 7 the transformer moved from the backbox to the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
* The System 7 PSU was redesigned and changed to incorporate a G.I. relay,&lt;br /&gt;
* An upgraded System 7 MPU Board was used, which featured a built-in numeric diagnostic display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first two System 3 games ([[Hot Tip]] &amp;amp; [[Lucky Seven]]) used chimes and had no sound boards in the cabinet backbox. In the remaining System 3 games and all System 4 games, the sound board was located in the body cabinet, rather than the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sample games of the first System 6 game, [[Tri Zone]] had the sound board located in the lower cabinet, but it was moved into the backbox for production games and all other System 6 &amp;amp; 6A games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the System 6A game [[Alien Poker]] and all System 7 games, an add-on board sppech board was introduced, which contained additional ROMs for speech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==MPU Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3 MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 3 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 was a major step by Williams to digital pinball games.  It ushered in the Solid State machines, but to begin with there were problems with acceptance of the new machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams had the Driver board firing the solenoids on Chime units on the first two System 3 games, and even had a device called a &#039;noisemaker&#039; (an EM score reel mounted in the body of the game) to provide the sounds of the score reels clicking over!  This gave the player the familiar sounds of EM machines which were still around,  The player&#039;s scoring, their credits remaining and the ball-in-play were all digital and being displayed on the seven-segment gas plasma displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Even once they dropped the chimes and &#039;noisemaker&#039; (for [[World Cup]] in May 1978) and added a digital sound board, the operator could still select the more familiar  &#039;bings &amp;amp; bongs&#039;.  A switch was provided on the sound board which allowed selection of simple digital chimes.  This option persisted right through on System 3 to System 7 sound boards, but for the most part was not used.  Digital sound became more popular as time went on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The design of System 3 was based on the Motorola 6800 CPU and what has become a standard arcade peripheral I/O device, the 6821 PIA (originally the 6820).  The PIA (or Peripheral Interface Adapter) on the MPU boards was used to drive the display I/O.  All other peripherals, switches, lamps, solenoids, and sound, are driven by the 3 PIAs on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 and 4 boards use a Motorola 6800 microprocessor with a 6875 clock generator chip, while System 6 and 7 boards use either a 6802 or 6808 microprocessor.  You cannot use a 6802 or 6808 in a System 3 or 4 board!  The chips are not backwards compatible.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Upgrading a System 3 board to System 4====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3ToSystem4ConversionOverview.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Overview of a board converted from System 3 to System 4]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A system 3 MPU can be upgraded to use a single 2716 EPROM at what will be IC14 (System 3 schematics do not give this IC position a designation number). This essentially converts the board to a System 4 board. This upgrade is useful to reduce the number of sockets (and failure points). Install a 24 pin socket at the unpopulated area, just to the right of the IC17 socket. Combine the original game ROM code into a single 2716, and install it into the socket of what is now being called IC14. The flipper ROMs are installed in the same locations, ROM 1 into IC20, ROM 2 into IC17.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CutJumperWMSSystem3ToSystem4.jpg|thumb|right|300px|IC15 (on left), showing necessary cut and jumper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate IC15 on the MPU (see picture at left)&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate the trace that runs from between pins 6 and 7 of IC15 to a via just to the right of the chip&lt;br /&gt;
#Sever that trace carefully&lt;br /&gt;
#Using jumper wire, connect the through hole via to pin 1 of IC15.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Doublecheck the work once the jumper is installed. Perform a continuity test between pin 1 and pin 9 of IC15.  There should not be continuity.  Conversely, there should now be continuity between pin 1 of IC15, and pin 20 of IC14.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 Remove Components.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Components which must be removed from a stock System 3 MPU board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 3 MPU board reset circuit should be updated as follows. This update was recommended by Williams in manual amendment 16P-482-110, and is done to improve CMOS RAM memory content protection during power-on/power-off.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Added10K.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|10 Kohm 1/4W resistor added to circuit, upper left, connected to the banded end of the zener diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove C27, R30, and R40 from the upper left corner of the MPU&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor. One leg of the resistor will be soldered to the cathode of ZR1 (banded side - top).  The other leg of the resistor will be soldered to the left through hole where R30 formerly was. The newly installed 10 Kohm resistor is referred to as R96 in System 4 MPU schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:1N4148.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Addition of the D19 1N4148 diode installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add a 1N4148 diode, if it is not already installed. The location is in the upper left quadrant of the circuit board. The anode (non-banded side) of the diode should be installed in a via, which is just to the right of resistor R23. This via is routed to pin 17 of IC19.  The cathode (banded side) of the diode should be tack soldered to the solder pad where the right leg of resistor R23 is installed. Once installed, this 1N4148 diode is referred to as D19 on System 4 MPU schematics.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 MPU Sockets.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Addition of C68 is shown above, a .1uf 50v ceramic capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Install a .1uf 50v capacitor just below the newly installed IC14 socket. One leg of the capacitor connects to +5VDC, while the other leg is inserted into a via which is routed to the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 Clock Circuit.JPG|thumb|left|300px|A factory board without the recommended capacitor and inductor update.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3Mod.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|The recommended capacitor and inductor additions have been made to this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add a 120pF capacitor (C66) and a 15uH inductor (L1) in parallel with the R1 resistor located just to the left of the crystal. This modification also applies to System 4 boards which do not have these components installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys3CapUpdate.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Here, the originally installed capacitor has been replaced with the correct capacitor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, some System 3 MPUs came from the factory with a .01uf capacitor (marked 103) installed at position C22, (located just below IC19, the 5101 RAM). If so, replace that capacitor with a .1uf 50v capacitor. The purpose of this capacitor is to snub the high frequency noise created within the 5101 as silicon gates open and close. This applies to System 4 MPU boards too.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the above modifications are performed, a System 3 MPU board will be one-to-one compatible with a System 4 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 4===	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys4 MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem4MPU.jpg ‎|thumb|right|300px|Another view of the Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 architecture is little changed from the previous System 3 generation.  The only functional changes from System 3 to System 4 was a minor alteration to the reset circuit as well as minor changes to the data and address bus in order to more easily facilitate the use of larger EPROMS for the game specific programming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 4 machines began with Pokerino in 1978 and ended with Flash in 1979.  Late production Flash machines also utilized the then-new System 6 boardset in place of System 4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; All System 6 software will run on a System 4 board. The exception is Firepower which utilized both the bipolar proms and a 2716 game eprom. Due to the missing memory protection circuit and somewhat unstable clock circuit replacing a System 6 CPU with a System 4 CPU is not recommended. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Upgrading a System 4 MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys4 Clock Circuit.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Changed layout with additional capacitor and inductor to the R1 resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 4 board has a revised clock circuit which usually does not need to be modified. If there are reset problems, replace the 22ufd tantal capacitor with a 33ufd type. This will lengthen the reset period a little and helps the clock circuit to stabilize. The capacitor modification can also be applied to System 3 boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If an incorrect capacitor is installed at position C22, (located just below IC19 - 5101 RAM), it is recommended to replace it.  This replacement is only necessary, if a 0.01mfd cap is installed.  If so, replace the 0.01mfd capacitor with a .1mfd 50v capacitor.  This applies to System 3 MPU boards too. Only early system 4 boards had an incorrect capacitor installed. Also check if the 0.01mfd blocking capacitor for IC14 is missing. If yes stuff it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 6===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS-6-MPU-board.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6A MPU Board. Note that the .156 headers on this board have been replaced and an LED indicating the blanking status has been added]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 6 was an upgrade to the System 4 design, replacing the 6800 processor with a 6808.  They took advantage of the internal clock in the 6808 CPU, removing the need for the 6875 clock generator (a companion chip to the 6800 and now obsolete and impossible to find). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This also changed the way the &#039;watchdog&#039; circuit functioned.  The watchdog monitors the CPU (IRQ signal), and will blank the displays and lamps as well as stopping the solenoids from firing. When something goes wrong (perhaps the MPU board has locked up), &#039;blanking&#039; should prevent further damage to the game by &#039;locked on&#039; coils and other output components driven from PIAs on the MPU/Driver boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More ROM memory could be addressed, and this was used to hold more sophisticated game code. As an example, Firepower used a 2716 2K Game ROM (which was standard for IC14) plus 3 x Harris bipolar proms (512 bytes each) giving a total game code size of 3,584 bytes.  Having just 3K of code space is nothing by today&#039;s standards.  Programmers had to work hard to get good game code in such a small space.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During early System 6 revisions the transceiver chips 8T28 ICs at IC9 and IC10 were found to not be needed.  They were eliminated from the design as they didn&#039;t need to amplify signals to and from the data bus with modern ROMs.  If the ICs are working, leave them alone. But if not, these buffers are obsolete and can be removed and bypassed, in effect by jumpering the data bus pins of the CPU directly to the data bus. i.e. IC9 and IC10 may be removed, and jumpers installed across pins 2-3, 5-6, 9-10, and 12-13 for both ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also around this period of game development, 8T97 bus &amp;quot;amplifier&amp;quot; ICs at IC3, IC4, and IC8 were used for address and control signals from the 6808 to peripheral ICs. 8T97s are long obsolete too, but fortunately can be replaced with an 74LS367, which Williams itself used in some revisions of the board. 8T97s can not be removed and jumpered like IC9 and IC10. They must be in place. Testing these chips is easy with a logic probe. The input signal should closely match the output signal of the amplifier. i.e. pins 2/3, 4/5, 6/7, 10/9, 12/11, and 14/13 should all test identical with a logic probe. Note that since the signal is amplified, logic probe indicators might vary somewhat. But, the probe should not measure high on one pin and low on the companion pin, for example.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 8T97 bus amplifiers communicate the following signals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*IC4 - A0 thru A5&lt;br /&gt;
*IC3 - A6 thru A11&lt;br /&gt;
*IC8 - A12 thru A15, VMA (valid memory address), and R/W (read/write)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On Firepower alone, the &#039;Combo ROM&#039; modification must be done to allow the use of a 2732 EPROM as the Game ROM at IC14.  This replaces the Firepower game code found in 4 ROMs as described [[Modifying a System 6 or 6A to Use The Firepower 2732 Combo ROM at IC14 | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]], and is an excellent idea. Less chips to worry about, less sockets to replace.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams also transitioned to using the updated 6821 PIAs during System 6 because the MC6820 was phased out after 1977. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replacing the 6808 with a 6802 ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Jumper1 6808.jpg|thumb|left|300px|J1 installed for 6808 or 6802 CPU chip]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 R4 6802.jpg|thumb|right|300px|J1 removed, 4.7 Kohm 1/4w resistor (R4) installed for use with 6802 CPU chip]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The typically stuffed 6808 microprocessor can be replaced with the more easily obtained 6802 microprocessor. The 6802 uses the same instruction set architecture and pinout, making it &amp;quot;backward compatible&amp;quot; with the 6808. The 6802 incorporates an internal 128 x 8 bit RAM memory. With the proper strapping, the 6810 RAM located at IC13 may be removed when a 6802 is installed. Factory strapping grounds pin 36 of the 6808/6802 socket via jumper J1. Pin 36 must be pulled high by tying pin 36 to 5V via a 4.7K pullup resistor. This enables the 6802&#039;s internal RAM. The 6810 at IC13 can then be removed or (if not socketed) simply left in place.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Procedure&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the 6808 with a 6802&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper J1&lt;br /&gt;
*Install a 4.7K resistor at R4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Officially, the 6808 has no internal RAM. But, internally it&#039;s identical to the 6802. Sometimes the 6808 internal RAM works but this is not guaranteed, so when using a 6808, be sure pin 36 is grounded.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Factory Jumper on System 6 MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Header Jumper.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6 MPU board with factory jumper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3 and 6 Header Compare.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 6 and System 3 MPU board comparison]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 6 MPU boards have a jumper installed between IJ3 pin 1 and IJ4 pin 1.  This is a factory jumper, and should not be removed.  Its purpose is due to the addition of the memory protect circuit, which was incorporated with the System 6 MPU.  System 3 and 4 MPU boards did not have a memory protect circuit.  The method in which this was added is the addition of pin 1 of IJ4.  This pin was formerly the keying pin on System 3 and 4 MPU boards.  However, Williams failed to run a trace to this pin for the memory protect circuit.  Hence, a jumper was installed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using a System 6 MPU board in a System 3 or 4 game, it is recommended to remove the keying plug from the IJ4 connector in the game, as opposed to cutting / removing pin 1 or IJ4.  This will allow the MPU to be used in any System 6 games in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 6A===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys6a MPU board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 6A MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 6A MPU is a System 6 board without buffer chips at IC9 and IC10. In place of these chips were several jumpers in closed frames, which can look similar to a socket at first glance. The jumpers are used to pass the data lines from the CPU chip to the data bus.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 6A also used four 7-digit slave displays and one 4-digit slave display driven by a centralized display driver board. This separated the displays from any board logic. Prior to this point, a master display driver board (with a 6-digit or 4-digit glass installed directly on the driver board) housed the display logic and drove four 6-digit slave displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 6 boards that are not explicitly marked as 6A in the lower right corner were modified to be 6A boards, which can be identified by the lack of the IC9 and IC10 buffer chips. Either several uninsulated wire jumpers will be installed in the solder pads of these two chips, or the same closed frame jumpers as seen on actual 6A MPU boards may be present.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Modifying a System 6 or 6A to Use The Firepower 2732 Combo ROM at IC14====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS IC14 4700 Res 20 24.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Cuts made, jumper run, and 4.7Kohm resistor added]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS J3 J4 1N4148.jpg|thumb|right|300px|2 1N4148 diodes added where jumpers J3 &amp;amp; J4 previously were]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The factory ROMs for Firepower use all 6 ROM socket positions on a System 6 or 6A board.  To minimize the amount of chips and sockets used, some modifications have to be performed to the MPU board. In doing these modifications, the board will then be able to use &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; green flipper ROM chips at IC20 &amp;amp; IC17, and a single 2732 combo ROM at position IC14.  Below are instructions pulled from the readme.txt file, which is included with the Firepower L2 ROM code found on [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=856 www.ipdb.org]. Some of the procedure wording has been altered for clarification.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are similar methods which may or may not work besides this method. Note that the jumper wire can be connected from IC14 pin 21 to either IC30 pin 14 or pin 36 of the 40 pin interconnect. If at all possible, please make sure that the board being modified boots and works with other game code, such as Gorgar, Flash, or Firepower, before attempting to make these modifications for the Firepower combo ROM.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove Game ROMs (IC14, IC21, IC22, IC26) from their sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove jumpers that may be installed at J3 or J4 (to the right of IC15, a 74LS139).&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, at IC14 pin 21, sever the trace on both sides of the solder pad. Removing the existing solder on the pad may help. The idea is to sever the +5V connection to the pin, while still leaving the solder pad at the pin itself.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a jumper from IC14 pin 21 to IC30 pin 14. IC30 is generally not installed. It is a 16-pin chip outline just to the right of IC14 and just above the 40 pin interconnect. Solder the jumper between the hole at pin 14 of the empty IC30 location, and pin 21 of IC14, making sure to not short it to the other side of the trace previously cut at IC14. This connects A11 to IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a 4.7K ohm, 1/4 Watt resistor between pins 20 and 24 of IC14. With the resistor leads bent at 90 degrees at a comfortable distance from the body of the resistor, the legs should line up at just the right spacing to solder one lead to each of those pins.  Again, make sure to avoid shorting the pin 20 connection to the jumper wire at pin 21, or the cut trace edges around pin 21.  This provides a pullup for the active-low chip select.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install two fast switching signal diodes (either 1N914 and 1N4148) at locations J3 and J4. The cathode (banded) end should be oriented toward the TOP of the board for both diodes. This enables both of the two Game ROM address ranges to drive the active-low chip select at IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#Program a 2732 with the &amp;quot;FPCOMBO&amp;quot; ROM image and install at IC14. If the board doesn&#039;t already have working Green Flipper ROMs at IC17 and IC20, those should be installed also. Note the orientation of the ROMs with respect to pin 1 of the chip sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys7-MPU.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 7 was considered a major step change.  It had a redesigned MPU board, now supporting a single 7-segment LED display for indicating improved diagnostic information instead of the original 2 LEDs that System 3-6a MPU boards had used.  It also added commas to the player scoring displays and moved the sound select support to the MPU board.  An extra 6821 PIA supported both the sound/speech selects and the display of commas. An extra 12-pin header at 1J8 was added to provide connections for the new Sound and Commas support.  This freed up five solenoid drives at positions #9-13 on the Driver board, which had been sound/speech selects.  They were then available to drive extra game Coils or Flash Lamps.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU used two 2114 Static RAMs; these 1024 x 4 bit RAMs replaced the use of 6810 RAMs mentioned above.  There was extended memory addressing, support for multiple 2732 ROMs (or EPROMS) as standard and a huge number of jumper selections available.  The jumpers support various memory addressing schemes and ROM sizes, making the System 7 board MPU &amp;quot;backwards compatible&amp;quot; and able to emulate any of the previous System 4-6a games.  (Provided, of course, that the correct Jumper Settings and EPROMS are installed.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound and Speech boards were unchanged for System 7; both sound and speech boards remained compatible from their introduction for Gorgar.  In some cases the System 7 game had no 0.100&amp;quot; 40-way IDC header for the speech board connection. This was a cost saving measure made by Williams for games produced without speech. This connector is cheap and available today as it is still used for PC IDE hard drives and modern PCB connections.  Adding this connector back to the sound board allows it to support a speech &#039;daughter board&#039; by removing the Jumper at W1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Driver Board mates with the MPU board using 40 x 0.156&amp;quot; header pins on the MPU and female sockets on the Driver Board.  This is a continual source of repair problems for this era of Williams machines.  To solve this, when designing System 9 Williams combined the MPU and Driver Boards (and the Sound Board) onto a single PCB (Printed Circuit Board), and removed the problems associated with the now infamous Williams &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; connector.  Only the speech board remained separate, as digital speech was considered an optional feature.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7 MPU Jumper and IC Locator====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 MPU Jumpers Marked.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Positions of the jumpers on a System 7 MPU board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7ICLocator.png|300px|right|thumb|IC Locations on a System 7 MPU board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System7ICLocator.png&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The image at left shows the most common jumpers on a System 7 MPU board. There are other jumpers on the right hand side of the board (not shown in the pic). However, these jumpers are rarely added or removed, nor do they pertain to the size of the ROM chips installed on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right is provided to assist in IC location.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The factory release of most System 7 MPUs contained a 2532 PROM at IC17. The more common 2732 is easy to use, with minor board modifications.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7MPUJumper.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Component side of a System 7 MPU board with modifications for a 2732 at position IC17]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 MPU 2732 IC17 Mod.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Solder side of a System 7 MPU board with modifications for a 2732 at position IC17]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;On the component side of the board,&#039;&#039;&#039; move jumper 22 to jumper 23. This amounts to moving the jumper down one position.&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;On the solder side of the board,&#039;&#039;&#039; cut the fat trace that grounds pin 21.&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the via labeled &amp;quot;22&amp;quot; to pin 21 of IC17. Be sure that the jumper doesn&#039;t short to the jumper previously moved on the component side.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7 MPU Test Pad Info====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an unpopulated connector in the lower right corner of the system 7 MPU board.  You can use a meter or logic probe to test the signals that are present on it or possibly add a connector to it (you can use a .100 dual row 20x2 connector).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:Williams-sys7-unpopulated-connector.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Unpopulated Connector]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|gnd || 40 || 39 || gnd&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d7 || 38 || 37 || ic36 CA2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d6 || 36 || 35 || ic37/15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d5 || 34 || 33 || ic37/14&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d4 || 32 || 31 || ic37/13&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d3 || 30 || 29 || ic37/21&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d2 || 28 || 27 || ic36 pb4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d1 || 26 || 25 || ic36 cb2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|d0 || 24 || 23 || blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|reset || 22 || 21 || vma&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|r/w || 20 || 19 || bus 02&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a14 || 18 || 17 || a15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a12 || 16 || 15 || a13&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a10 || 14 || 13 || a11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a8 || 12 || 11 || a9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a6 || 10 || 9 || a7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a4 || 8 || 7 || a5&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a2 || 6 || 5 || a3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|a0 || 4 || 3 || a1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| +5vdc || 2 || 1 || +5vdc&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
! colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; | Bottom of board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Compatibility===&lt;br /&gt;
Williams 3-7 MPU are pretty flexible.  With some modifications, boards can be upward compatible, while others are downward compatible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the details:&lt;br /&gt;
*A System 3 MPU can be upward compatible to a System 4 MPU, if the upgrades are performed as described [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Upgrading_a_System_3_board_to_System_4 above].  And if a System 3 MPU is upgraded to a System 4 MPU, it is then upward compatible with a System 6 MPU board.  There will not be a memory protect circuit though.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 4 and 4A MPUs are upward compatible to a System 6 MPU, when a socket is installed and used at position IC14.  However, there will not be a memory protection circuit. A System 4 MPU is backward compatible with a System 3 MPU with no modifications performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 6 and 6A MPUs are backward with System 3, 4, and 4A MPU boards with no modifications performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*A System 7 MPU is backward compatible with System 3, 4, 4A, 6, and 6A MPU boards.  However, board jumpers will have to be removed / installed.  It not recommended to use a System 7 MPU board in any previous systems, but it can be done.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*System 3, 4, 4A, 6, and 6A MPU boards are &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; upward compatible with System 7 MPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In any instance where a non-native MPU board is used in place of the original MPU board, the correct flipper ROMs and game ROM must be installed.  An example would be if an upgraded System 3 MPU were to be used in Gorgar.  The GREEN flipper Roms and Gorgar game ROM would have to be installed in postions IC20, IC17, and IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Aftermarket Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottendogMPU327.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|A Rottendog MPU327, which can be installed in any Williams System 3 - 6 game.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MPU327StuffedWrong.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|U17 on an MPU327, stuffed correctly with a 74HCT9114.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 Rottendog] offers aftermarket Williams 3 through 7 combined MPU/driver boards. The Rottendog board (pictured left) contains all the game code for every System 3 through 6 game. The game code is DIP switch selectable. Note that the &amp;quot;sense&amp;quot; of the DIP switch bank is backwards. Follow the on-board silkscreen to the left of the DIP switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note: as of January 2018, Rottendog is no longer claiming support for System 7 games with their MPU327 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some &#039;&#039;&#039;older&#039;&#039;&#039; Rottendog MPU327s were stuffed wrong at the factory. U17, which services the switch columns, should be stuffed with a 74HCT9114. In some boards, that location is stuffed with a 74HCT244, which will not work correctly. Note that there are several revisions of the MPU327 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU327Short.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|A Rottendog MPU327, installed, and shorted to a switch matrix header pin. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image provided by Tony, PinSider &amp;quot;goingincirclez&amp;quot;. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPU327ShortCorrection.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|One user&#039;s (excellent) correction for the situation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image provided by Tony, PinSider &amp;quot;goingincirclez&amp;quot;. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog MPU327 PCB design causes the switch matrix row header (2J3) to short to a mounting bracket as shown at left. This can cause the switch column IC at U17 to fail. A simple correction for this issue is shown at right. See the [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/warning-to-rottendog-327-owners-check-it-now original Pinside thread] for additional details.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RD 327 MPU Combo Dipswitch.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Rottendog MPU327 game select dipswitch bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the dipswitch bank used for selecting a specific game has 8 dipswitches, whereas only the 6 switches on the right are the only ones used.  The 2 left dipswitches must be turned &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; (opposite of what is expected of a dipswitch) to &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Driver Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3-6===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-6 drvr.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Williams System 3-6 Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board uses three 6821 Peripheral Interface Adapter (PIA) chips to drive:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* an 8x8 Matrix for the Lamps&lt;br /&gt;
* an 8x8 Matrix for the Switches&lt;br /&gt;
* Solenoids and Sound Selects&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More properly, the PIAs were used to drive transistors that in turn drive the lamp matrix, switch matrix, and solenoid circuits. In the case of the solenoids, Darlington transistors are used as &amp;quot;solid state relays&amp;quot;, providing a path to ground for coil power, causing them to energize.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The electronic design choices Williams made became the basis for all subsequent Bally/Williams pinball games and even games being made today. The specific CPU and PIA ICs may change, more memory and ROM space is available to the programmers, MOSFETs are used as the switching relays instead of transistors...yet the basic design established for the lamp matrix, switch matrix, and for energizing coils, remains unchanged.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7===	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 drvr board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board remained almost completely unchanged from System 3 right through to System 7 with the exception of one small change that was made to the driver board during System 7.  Eight resistors were changed to zero-ohm jumpers in the switch matrix inputs to increase sensitivity and responsiveness.  These zero ohm resistors are located in the upper right corner of the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7 Hyperball Specific Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HyperBallSpecificDriverBoard.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Williams System 7 Hyperball Specific Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since Hyperball didn&#039;t need to drive coils other than the cannon coil and the auger motor, and since it needed to drive many more lamps than a normal pinball game, Williams created a unique, special purpose variant of the driver board specifically for Hyperball. This driver board can only be used in Hyperball, and a regular System 3 through 7 driver board can NOT be used in Hyperball.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Power Supplies==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Early_Sys3_Power_Supply.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Early Williams System 3-6 Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 3-6 power supply used in [[Hot Tip]] and [[Lucky Seven]] have a few additional components that later games did not need, physically located a little above the row of four fuses: two .22mfd mylar capacitors and two 1N4001 diodes. If a later power supply is being installed in Hot Tip or Lucky Seven, these components must be added to the board if they are missing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams continued to populate these components for several following games, but they were not utilized. These components can be safely left populated or simply removed from the board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PowerSupply.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Williams System 7 Power Supply (GI input connector modified from stock)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the parts bill of materials for some (perhaps all) system 7 games call out a 2N6087 power transistor for Q5. This is most likely a typo. A 2N6057 or 2N6059 should be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Flipper Power Supply==&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 7 C-9939 50V Flipper Power Supply Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:C-9939-Front.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS-C-9939-Back.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Back&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This PCB was first used in Hyperball to control the auger (ball lift) motor. As seen in the pictures above, the PCB layout was designed to accommodate more components than were ever stuffed.  This is because this same board, using different components, is used in some Williams video games. In Firepower II, Laser Cue and Star Light the trimmed down version shown here provides the flipper coils with 50VDC power. The AC voltage supplied to the bridge rectifier originates from a second, smaller, transformer mounted on the wooden plank in the bottom rear of the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the coil voltage this board provides is exactly the same as that of later System 11 games, far stronger Williams coils, such as the FL-11630, can be used in these games. It&#039;s advisable when using these coils to install a 2.2µF capacitor across each EOS switch, to reduce spark across the EOS switch, as was done in later Williams System 11 games. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board suffers from cold solder joints at the header pins (at least). As shown in the picture above, someone did a (poor) job of reflowing the solder on the header pins. A better solution would be to replace the header pins altogether.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The exact same board is used in all System 9 and early System 11 games up until F-14 Tomcat. Data East copied this design. Hence, this 50VDC Power Supply can be used in Data East games from Laser War to Time machine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sound Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During the long run of System 3 through 7 games, Williams used two basic board types, designated Type 1 and Type 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Type 1 Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundFront.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams Type 1 Sound Board back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board is rectangular in shape as pictured at left. Two versions of this board were manufactured. One version placed the 12,000uf 5V filter capacitor vertically. The other version placed the same capacitor horizontally. The boards function identically. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen on the back of the board pictured at right, the board was modified from the factory to add 3 jumpers (the three longer red wires) to make it work correctly. Every Type 1 sound board should have these jumpers. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The factory installed jumpers take advantage of trace &amp;quot;vias&amp;quot; to accomplish these connections.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A long jumper that connects the reset pins on the 6821 PIA (pin 34) and the 6802 (pin 40)&lt;br /&gt;
#Pin 40 of the 6802 also needs to be jumpered to pin 36 of the 6802 for the reset circuit to be complete.&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper pin 35 to pin 8 of the 6802. This ties Vcc1 and Vcc2 together.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams documented &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;additional&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; modifications in the &amp;quot;Flash&amp;quot; manual. The board pictured has been updated with all of these modifications. A drawing of these modifications and jumpers can be found [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/d/d5/Sojueen.pdf &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The modifications are:&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between pins 39 and 40 of the 6821 PIA&lt;br /&gt;
#Add two 10K, 1/4W resistors &lt;br /&gt;
#(Possible) replace two 100K resistors with 4.7K, 1/4W resistors. Note that some boards shipped with 4.7K resistors installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Modifications 1 and 2&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;quot;reduce the susceptibility of the sound board to noise&amp;quot;. The &amp;quot;noise&amp;quot; can cause the board to stop execution after a short time, especially when using a 9316B or 2716 ROM. If a sound board makes sound after pressing the diagnostic button, but either makes no other sound, or makes sound for a short time and then quits, these two mods will probably fix this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Modification 3&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;quot;improves the quality of the sound produced at the speaker&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Theory of Operation&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board is about as basic as a sound board can be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*A 3.58Mhz crystal provides the clock signal across pins 38 and 39 of the 6802.&lt;br /&gt;
*A simple reset generator is configured with Q1, Q2, and CR3 (a 6.8V zener diode). As the unregulated 12VDC rises past 6.8V, the zener breaks down, eventually allowing pin 40 of the 6802 to be pulled up to logic high (5V).&lt;br /&gt;
*A diagnostic pushbutton, upper right, grounds the NMI (non-maskable interrupt) signal to the 6802 processor and causes the board to play a diagnostic tune (in most cases).&lt;br /&gt;
*A two position switch selects between &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; (right) or &amp;quot;chimes&amp;quot; (left).&lt;br /&gt;
*A volume adjustment POT is located on the board itself, and is a 5K POT.&lt;br /&gt;
*A 6802 microprocessor controls the board via a 6821 Peripheral Interface Adapter (PIA).&lt;br /&gt;
*The board does not have a RAM IC (like a 6810). Instead, the built-in 128 bytes (yes, 8-bit bytes) of RAM on the 6802 are used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power is provided from the transformer secondary at connector 10J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1,2 - 9VAC&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 5,6 - Ground (center tap)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 7 - Key&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 8,9 - 9VAC &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power is fused and rectified via the &amp;quot;in-line&amp;quot; bridge rectifier immediately below the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
Positive unregulated 12VDC is filtered by a 12,000uf/25V electrolytic capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
Negative unregulated -12VDC is filtered by a 1,000uf/25V electrolytic capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
The positive unregulated 12VDC is regulated down to 5VDC via a 7805 regulator at IC11.&lt;br /&gt;
These three voltages, plus ground, define the power requirements for the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A speaker is connected to 10J2, positive to pins 1/2, ground to pins 3/4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound selects are presented by the driver board to the sound board at connector 10J3. Selecting a particular sound is a matter of grounding the appropriate sound select pins which are normally held high via 4.7K pullup resistors at R37 through R44. Each signal is buffered via the 4050 non-inverting hex buffers at IC8 and IC9.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of the sound select signals is connected to both a 4068 8-input NAND gate and to the (software configured) input port of the 6821 PIA (PB0-PB7). The output of the 4068 is connected to pin 18 (CB1) of the 6821 which is configured by the sound board software to create an interrupt to the 6802 processor. When the 6821 PIA interrupts the processor, the interrupt servicing routine reads the input port (PB0-PB7) of the PIA to determine which sound was commanded. The processor pulls sound data from the sound ROM and pushes the data to the 6821 PIA (software configured) output ports (PA0-PB7) one 8 bit byte at a time. The PIA output port signals drive a simple 1408 DAC (digital to analog converter) which produces the analog signal that is stabilized and eventually amplified by a TDA2002 audio amplifier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 sound board shares most of the common faults associated with the Williams System 3-7 board set. Chief among them are:&lt;br /&gt;
#ScanBe sockets. These are well documented to be long past their useful life and should always be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
#Fractured solder joints at the header pins. The Williams manufacturing process trimmed the .156 header pins too short, damaging the solder meniscus. Over time, these solder joints develop fractures. The header pin eventually begins to work itself out of the joint which causes reliability issues.&lt;br /&gt;
#Aged electrolytic capacitors. At the very least, the 12,000uf/25V 5VDC filter capacitor should be replaced. Replacing all of the electrolytic caps is advised. Following is the capacitor parts list.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Electrolytic Capacitors Used&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*C10 - 25uF, 25 Volt Axial (can use 22uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C13 - 500uF, 16 Volt Axial (can use 470uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C14 - 800uF, 16 Volt Axial (can use 1000uf)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - 100uF, 10 Volt Axial&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 12000uF, 16 Volt Axial &lt;br /&gt;
*C30 - 1000uF, 16 Volt Axial&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-4RectangularSoundBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2 with the horizontal cap, front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Type1soundBoardHorizontalCapBack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2 with the horizontal cap, back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
These images show a Type 1 sound board that was introduced later in production. The 5VDC filter capacitor was turned horizontally. Also, an extra connector was added to enable a remote volume POT. Note that this sound board has been &amp;quot;recapped&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This revision of the sound board picked up the jumper modifications of the earlier board in the PCB design, with one exception. Pins 39 and 40 of the 6821 need to be bridged (or jumped) to avoid the board locking up after a short (and random) period of time. A solder bridge can be seen at pins 39 and 40 of the sound board pictured at right.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBoardJumper.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board Version 2, closeup of jumper to enable onboard sound POT]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later production Type 1 sound boards added a connector to enable a remote volume POT. If the remote POT is not used and the onboard POT is used instead, a jumper must be installed between pins 1 and 2 of this connector. The pictured jumper is quite Gucci. A simple wire jumper on the back of the PCB will suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Type 1 Sound Board Jumpers==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundFront.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams Type 1 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Type 1 Sound board can be jumpered to use a 7641 masked ROM, a 9316B masked ROM, or a 2716 (or doubled 2732). The board pictured at left is jumpered to accept either at 9316B or a 2716. To use a 7641 masked ROM, remove the four jumpers to the right and just below the sound ROM, and install the opposite set of four jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Type 2 Sound Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound and Speech Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys6-7 sound.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys6-7 sound speech.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board with Speech Board Connection&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WilliamsType2SoundAndSpeechBoarfPair.jpg ‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 6-7 Type 2 Sound Board with Speech Board. Note that this -3 revision board features a tantalum capacitor soldered directly between test point 1 (+12VDC) and test point 3 (ground). In later board revisions, this part was added to the PCB design.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Speakers==&lt;br /&gt;
With the exception of Hot Tip and Lucky 7, all Williams System 3-7 games use a speaker.  And, nearly all of them use a single 6-1/2&amp;quot; speaker located on the cabinet bottom (later games, like Firepower II, had an oblong speaker below the smaller backglass instead).  Speakers used during games such as Firepower were 8 ohm 5 watt.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==Displays==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Using UDN7180A - Common)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-6 Master Display NE584.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Using NE584 - Less Common)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display discrete.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board w/ Discrete Components]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-SYS6-displays.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Slave Displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys6a-7 display drvr.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 6A-7 Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-SYS7-displays.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 7-Digit Slave Displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bowler6DigitFace.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Puck Bowler Display Glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bowler6DigitBottom.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams 6-Digit Puck Bowler Display Edge Connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Flippers==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Drop Target Banks==&lt;br /&gt;
===First Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drops.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Typical first generation Williams solid state drop target bank (Time Warp)]]&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with the first Williams solid state game, Hot Tip, Williams introduced their version of the solid state drop target bank.  Drop target banks were a rather new design for Williams.  They were the last major pinball manufacturer to introduce the drop target bank earlier in 1977 with the electromechanical game, Big Deal.  And, only 3 games prior to the solid state version of Hot Tip, including the electromechanical version of Hot Tip, were manufactured with drop target banks.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reason for mentioning the background regarding Williams drop target banks is because of the actual design implemented.  There is one distinct difference between Williams drop target banks and any other manufacturer&#039;s drop target bank.  In addition to using a scoring switch for each drop target in a bank, Williams used a secondary set of switches paired in series to detect when all of the drop targets were physically dropped.  The drop target bank frame, reset coil or coils, appearance of the drop target faces on the playfield, and operation of the bank was virtually the same between Williams electromechanical games and solid state games.  Therefore, it is believed that Williams designed their banks this way, because they had not been designing drop target banks that long, and decided upon a legacy approach.  In other words, the Williams solid state drop target banks used hardware instead of software to detect when all the drop targets were down.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drops Back.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Backside of Williams first generation drop targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The design of the drop targets are very different from any other manufacturer&#039;s design.  Unlike Bally, Stern, or Gottlieb, the Williams drop target is a meaty, reinforced plastic which is fairly consistent in thickness and width throughout the target.  Williams does not use a face with a long neck stemmed down in size.  The benefit to this design is that breakage is minimized.  The downside to this design is extra added weight.  There are several other design differences too, such as the compression spring used to pull the target down.  It is physically screwed to the front of the drop target plastic, as opposed to being attached via a molded &amp;quot;hook&amp;quot; like other manufacturers.  This too is a plus, because the molded hooks on other drop target systems are prone to breakage.  However, probably the most recognizable difference is the drop target switch design.  On the back side of a Williams drop target, a switch triggering mechanism in the form of a copper horseshoe with two contacts is physically screwed to the plastic.  The combination of the horseshoe contacts and discrete circuit boards for each target mounted to the bank of the bank are what is used to detect the three states of the drop target position.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Drop Anim.GIF|150px|thumb|left|Simulation of the three different states of a Williams drop target]]&lt;br /&gt;
A simulation of the operation of a Williams drop target switch can be viewed at the animation located to the left. As mentioned before, the horseshoe contact is attached to the backside of the drop target plastic.  The horseshoe contact makes physical contact with the thick copper or tinned traces of the circuit board, which is secured to the backside of the drop target bank.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An explanation of the three different states of the drop target are:&lt;br /&gt;
#When the horseshoe contact is located at the uppermost set of traces, the first frame in the animation, the drop target is in the upright position (fully reset).&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the drop target face is struck by the ball, the drop target plastic is pushed from the metal ledge of the metal drop target frame.  As the drop target falls, the horseshoe contacts slide over a second set of traces on the circuit board, as seen in the second frame of the animation.  These contacts are tied to the switch matrix via a switch strobe and return line respectively.  The switch strobe line is common to all drop targets in the bank, while each drop target in a bank will have its own switch return line.  Each switch pair is used for scoring purposes.&lt;br /&gt;
#Finally, the drop target will fully drop, and the contacts come to rest on a third set of traces on the circuit board.  This set of traces is tied in series from one drop target circuit board to the other.  Because the pairs of traces for each target are tied together in series, a switch, secondary to the individual scoring switches is used.  Once all of the targets in the bank are dropped, the series switch circuit is complete.  The switch matrix detects this as a single switch closure.  In turn, the drop target bank is reset.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Horseshoe Drop Bank Marked.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Switch solder points identified on a drop target bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the maze of similar-colored wires on the back of a Williams first generation drop target bank, it can be somewhat intimidating as to what wire goes where.  The switch return lines (white wires with colored traces) attach to the solder tabs of the eyelets.  Likewise, the non-banded side of the diode attaches to the same solder tab of the eyelet.  The switch strobe line (green wire with a colored trace) can be attached to any of the points circled in green.  On the bank in the adjacent pic, the switch strobe wire was attached to the green circled area on the far right.  The black and gray wires are sometimes substituted with different colors like yellow.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Second Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Leaf Drops.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Typical second generation Williams drop target bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Black Knight, Williams slightly changed the design of the drop target bank.  Instead of using horseshoe contacts and circuit boards for switch detection on each drop target, the horseshoe contacts were replaced with a copper leaf spring and the discrete circuit boards were replaced with leaf switch stacks.  Detecting when all the drop targets down was now handled via software.  There are subtle physical differences in the drop target plastic.  The most obvious difference is the thickness of the bottom of the drop target.  The thickness was increased to compensate for the use of bottom mounted leaf switches.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Third Generation Drop Target Bank===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+++ Need pic of drop target bank with microswitches +++&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The third and final generation of System 3-7 drop target banks are essentially the same as the second generation.  The main difference is that microswitches were used to detect when a drop target drops versus leaf switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Additional Diagnostics - Pincoder test ROMs==&lt;br /&gt;
A comprehensive set of free, third party diagnostic/test ROMs can be found here: http://pincoder.ca&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ROMs can be used in-game to test individual components of your pinball machine. Additionally, the RAM and CMOS tests thoroughly check all addressable locations within each chip, resulting in extremely accurate results.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Support for these ROMs can be found on Pinside here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-williams-system-6-in-game-test-roms&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Recommended Modifications=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Additional Fuses==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6_Fused_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Firepower)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 3-7 Fused Bridges Inline Butt Connectors.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Inline fuse holders installed with solderless crimp butt connectors]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams failed to include fuses in the AC connection between the transformer secondary and the solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers. In theory, the primary power fuse should blow if one of these bridges short. However, this is not always the case. Sometimes, the bridges short in such a manner that the wiring from the transformer secondary to the bridge becomes the fuse, and the wiring insulation melts until something gives. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This problem can be addressed by adding 2 fuse blocks and two 8 amp slo-blo fuses. For each bridge, afuse is added between either transformer secondary wire and the bridge. The AC inputs to the bridge are both marked with a &#039;tilde&#039; on the BR which looks like an &#039;S&#039; on it&#039;s side:   &#039;&#039;&#039;~&#039;&#039;&#039;.  The wire colors are typically red for solenoids, and blue for the controlled lamps.  However, it is best to consult the game schematics to confirm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although the preferred method is to put fuse holders on the backbox wall, installing fuses in any configuration is paramount. One way is to use inline fuse holders, and solderless crimp butt connectors. This is a quick and easy alternative, even though it may not be the prettiest solution.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FirePowerAdditionalFusing.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The Firepower schematics, updated to include two 8ASB fuses between the transformer secondary and both the solenoid and controlled lamp bridge rectifiers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams incorporated an 8A normal-blo fuse in later games (Big Guns and newer), while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem is the Inkochnito Bridge Board that can be found at this link: http://www.inkochnito.nl. Click on the Bridge Board image for more information. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3 and System 4 games did not incorporate a fuse for the 9.3VAC supply lines. If either diode D7 or D8 shorts, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;something&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; in the circuit will act as a fuse. Sometimes, a board trace acts as a fuse under these conditions. It is much, much better to add two 4 amp slo-blo fuses directly after the transformer, just as Williams did when System 6 games were introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==MPU Batteries &amp;amp; Memory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Relocating the batteries away from the MPU board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|120px|thumb|left|Leaking Battery]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3xAA batteries from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; is displayed in the credit/match display, rather than the game going into attract mode, then the game is in audits mode:&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the 5101 CMOS RAM (check Test Point TP7, which should measure 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v (or so) with the power off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking Diode D18 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There is another problem holding settings, such as a faulty 5101 CMOS RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries is not really an option as the game will not boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on. It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (usually obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores  It&#039;s possible on System 3-7 games to switch the game off, and then quickly back on to go from the &#039;04 00 audit mode&#039; to attract mode. Credits would still need to be added by the coin switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear= all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Remote Battery Pack===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board (see driver board pic below). Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea, so the pack can easily remove the battery pack from the board. Plus, it the batteries are forgotten and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. Another solution is to buy a battery holder with the &#039;transistor radio&#039; type connector which can be snapped on and off. Just be very careful if using this style of connector. Adding a tag noting that a &#039;&#039;&#039;9 volt battery should never be connected&#039;&#039;&#039; is a very good idea. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement. If only a 4 x AA battery holder is a available, a diode or jumper can be soldered in the first position. A diode is the preferred approach, as this will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D17 on the MPU board fails. Keep in mind that an added secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the 5101, if D17 is still good. Locate a 1N4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the Red wire and towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The game takes 3 x AA Batteries, so it uses at least 4.5v total. However, it will still store settings down to about 3v or so. After that an AA battery&#039;s life will taper off very quickly. A fresh set of batteries should last for at least a year, or the is some other issue. If the 5101 CMOS RAM is socketed, it&#039;s possible that it isn&#039;t the low power version. Or, possibly the D17 diode has shorted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The images below illustrate how to install the wiring for battery packs on the different MPU Boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_sys4_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 4 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 4 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_sys6a_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 6 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 6(a) MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Top Right pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Bottom Left.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_sys7_MPU_board.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 7 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 7 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board. All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; can be somewhat common. Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another good practice, while the MPU board is already out, is to check the D17 blocking diode. An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the 5101 non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective. Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack. This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on. If Alkaline batteries are charged, they will be damaged and fail, leak, or (in extreme cases) explode. Testing the D17 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out. When in doubt, replace the D17 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack. Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5101, if D17 is still good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms drvr bat dam.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Alkaline Damaged Williams Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to remotely relocate the batteries from the MPU board, unless using a lithium replacement. The potential is there for not only the MPU to become damaged, but other associated boards in the backbox. The pic to the left is a prime example of extended damage. The damage occurred in this instance, because the shuffle bowler this board came from was stored with the batteries still on the MPU board for an extended period of time (roughly 5-8 years). It&#039;s a costly shame, because this was an otherwise decent, clean, working driver board. The amount of repairs which have to be performed now are going to be extensive.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Installing a Lithium Coin Cell Battery Backup===&lt;br /&gt;
An alternate solution to a remotely located battery pack is to use a single CR2032 battery and holder mounted on the MPU. Lithium button batteries do leak, although not nearly as commonly or as severe as alkaline batteries. And, since the battery will be contained in a holder mounted above the PCB, there is little risk of corrosion attacking the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The holder and replacement batteries are inexpensive.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The following photo gallery shows the installation procedure.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This method can be adapted to work with all Williams System 3-7 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 4 MPU Coin Cell Installation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-1.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Small hole drilled at intersection of holder pin &amp;quot;arc&amp;quot; and trace on board solder side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-2.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Battery holder installed, front side. Note the &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; soldered between the top left and top right battery holder holes.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System4MPUCoinCell-3.jpg |&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Battery holder installed, rear side. Note the negative connection marked lower right and the path of the positive connection.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Installing a Memory Capacitor (SuperCap) Instead of Batteries===&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor.  In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is minimal compared to a rechargeable battery.  When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor.  When the game is turned off, the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time.  Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again.  If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 6====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Mem Cap.JPG|300px|thumb|left|5.5V 1.5F Memory Capacitor Added to a System 6 MPU Board. Labels added to help locate parts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a SuperCap, the polarity of the cap needs to match the battery pad polarity. Connect the negative lead of the cap to ground. Connect the positive lead to the banded side of diode D18 (1N5817).  The picture to the left shows a jumper added to connect the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 6 MPU board. Installation on System 3 and 4 MPUs is similar.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
As an alternative to running the positive lead of the cap to diode D18, the positive cap lead is installed in the positive battery terminal. The diode at D17 (1N4148) is removed, and a 100ohm resistor (or similar value) replaces the diode. Adding a resistor in place of D17 allows the game to charge the capacitor.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, leave the game powered on to allow the game to charge the capacitor fully. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes allows the capacitor to recharge. If the cap is losing its charge rapidly, diode D18 may be faulty, and should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 7====&lt;br /&gt;
Follow these steps to add a SuperCap to a System 7 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a 1/16&amp;quot; hole NorthWest of the upper right positive battery terminal solder pad. The distance from the positive battery terminal hole should be the width of the SuperCap leads. The hole will be pierce a large ground trace on the solder side of the board (right hand image).&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the SuperCap positive lead through the battery terminal solder pad. &lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the SuperCap negative lead to the ground trace on the solder side of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove diode D17, a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a 100ohm (or thereabouts) 1/4W resistor in place of D17. Polarity is not important as resistors have no polarity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following images demonstrate the procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 7 MPU SuperCap Installation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1/16&amp;quot; hole drilled for the negative &amp;quot;leg&amp;quot; of the SuperCap.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The SuperCap and 100ohm resistor installed.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7SuperCap-3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The solder side of the board showing SuperCap connections.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Installing NVRAM ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NVRAM (non-volatile RAM) can be used in all Williams System 3 through 7 MPUs. By installing NVRAM, batteries will never, ever, be required to retain game settings and high scores. The possibility of spewing alkaline onto the board is eliminated. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 3-7 games, the 5101 RAM chip is always at IC19, although the actual physical position of IC19 on the MPU differs between the systems. Unfortunately, the 5101 RAM is &#039;&#039;&#039;always&#039;&#039;&#039; soldered directly onto the board. It must be desoldered and replaced with a 22-pin 0.3&amp;quot; width socket to accommodate the NVRAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NVRAM are discussed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=MPU_Battery_Replacement_Options#Products here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Improving the Early System 3 Flipper Response==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the early solid state games, Williams re-used the flipper mechanism from their electromechanical games. This design, composed of multiple pieces screwed to the bottom of the playfield, is functional but somewhat clunky in operation. There are those that advocate scrapping the mechanism and replacing it with modern Williams baseplate design flippers. While this certainly works, and provides a much nicer flipper response, it also costs money for new parts when the old parts can be made to work reasonably well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, rebuild the flipper assembly with fresh parts. This includes the coil stops, plunger and links, coil sleeves, EOS switches, cabinet switches, and pawls (if needed). Pinball Resource has all these parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This leaves a functional, reasonably strong, but &#039;clunky&#039; flipper. It will work, but it will not seem as &#039;snappy&#039; and &#039;fast&#039; as a modern game. While the modern (WPC) baseplate style flipper mechanism is nice, the most important change is actually not the baseplate, it is the modern flipper bat itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a slight difference in mass between the original bat at 1.5 oz and the new bat at a little under 1 oz, but what accounts for the difference is the way the mass is distributed. On the old flipper design, a heavy metal base is welded to the shaft, and the plastic bat is screwed to the base. On the new design, the plastic bat is simply molded to the shaft, eliminating the base entirely.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams Flipper Bat Comparison&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams System 3 flipper bat assembly (two-piece)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat4.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Williams molded flipper bat assembly&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper coil is energized, it begins accelerating the plunger, pulling it in to the centre of the coil. This acceleration is transmitted to the shaft via the crank, accelerating the flipper bat. In this rotational acceleration of the bat, the further the mass is from the centre of the shaft, the more work required to accelerate it, and the slower the rate of acceleration. (Incidentally, this is why magnesium wheels first became popular in drag racing; they are lighter than steel wheels and increase the car&#039;s rate of acceleration. It does not change the car&#039;s top speed, but it does reduce the time it takes the car to reach top speed, making it quicker.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of the coil&#039;s power stroke, the plunger slams in to the coil stop, rapidly decelerating. In turn, then, the link, crank, and flipper bat also slam in to the previous part and rapidly decelerate. In this part of the action, the higher mass of the old flipper bat has more momentum, and due to the location of that mass, has more leverage to apply the force of the momentum. This leads to a hard clunk as all of that mass slams to a stop, and often results in a flipper bat that &#039;bounces&#039; at the end of stroke.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The solution to both of these is to reduce the mass of the flipper bat, especially reducing it as far from the centre line of the flipper shaft as possible. Looking at the options, there are only three pieces to the flipper bat. The plastic bat is not really easily modified to reduce any serious mass. The screw that holds the plastic bat to the base is not easy to reduce in mass, and being located close to the centre line of the flipper shaft, it has very little effect on the operation. That leaves the flipper shaft and its welded on base.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The shaft itself has significant mass, but the mass of the shaft is located very close to the centre line, so it can be ignored as well. That, then, leaves the base. Here there is quite a lot of mass, and much of it is located a good distance from the centre line of the flipper shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First remove the plastic shoe from the bat (there is a single screw underneath the bat). Then screw the metal bat to a piece of scrap wood, and drill the metal bat baseplate to remove metal. This is easiest to do neatly with a drill press. Drill two 5/16&amp;quot; hole near the shaft, and progressively  smaller holes toward the tip. A total of seven holes can be drilled: 5/16&amp;quot;, 5/16&amp;quot;, 1/4&amp;quot;, 7/32&amp;quot;, 3/16&amp;quot;, 5/32&amp;quot;, 1/8&amp;quot;. These holes remove about 1/2 oz from the flipper bat assembly without significantly affecting its strength or durability. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 3 Flipper Bat Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Drilling the flipper bat shoe&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:s3fbat3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Flipper bat shoe after being drilled&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reassemble the flipper bat, install, and enjoy. The flippers should feel snappier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Problems and Fixes=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PharoahConnectors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 7/9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU and/or driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Advanced Diagnostic Tool by Pincoder==&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
An advanced diagnostic tool with full (downloadable) documentation and active support is available here: [https://pincoder.ca/index.php/2020/07/10/adapter-2020-06-23-0506/ Pincoder Adapter]. The Adapter simply plugs into the MPU board right out of the box and can be used in-game for all tests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Built In Diagnostics==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3DiagnosticButtonCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diagnostic switch location on a WMS System 3 MPU]]The built in diagnostics of the Williams System 3 - 7 board set are extremely limited. The board set either powers up or it doesn&#039;t. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two diagnostic LEDs on the MPU (system 7 MPUs feature a 7 segment display). However, the usefulness of these LEDs is at best limited and generally just confusing. A properly booting System 3-6 game will flash both LEDs once, and then the LEDs will remain off. This flash is a bit longer than a flicker, staying on for about 1/2 second. A properly booting System 7 game will flash a zero on the 7 segment display. The 7 segment display will then go blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the Diagnostic button on a properly functioning System 3 - 6 MPU will cause both LEDs to flash twice in unison and then go off. If the bottom LED remains on, the game software is indicating a ROM failure. If the top LED remains on, the game software is indicating a RAM failure (6810). And if both LEDs remain on, the game software is indicating a CMOS RAM failure (5101). However, the accuracy of this test is questionable since the game software must be functioning properly for the test report to be valid and the game software requires ROM and RAM to function in the first place. The short advice is: don&#039;t rely on this diagnostic test result.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the Diagnostic button on a properly functioning System 7 MPU will cause the 7 segment display to flash a zero and then go blank. System 7 diagnostics are a bit more useful than prior Williams game systems but are still not 100% trustworthy. If the MPU built-in-test software detects a problem with the game hardware, the 7 segment display will remain on with an error code displayed. Possible error codes are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*0 - and then goes out...all tests passed&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - IC13 RAM or IC20 ROM failed&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - IC16 RAM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - IC17 ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - IC17 ROM failure (duplicated test...yes)&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - IC20 ROM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - IC14 Game ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - IC26 Game ROM failure&lt;br /&gt;
*8 - IC19 (5101) RAM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
*9 - IC19 (5101 again) RAM failure or the coin door was closed or memory protect fault&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;To test displays, lamps, coils and switches for System 3 and 4 games, follow this procedure first, then proceed to the System 6-7 procedure below .&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Entering the familiar diagnostic mode of later game systems is a bit less intuitive with a System 3 or 4 game. To enter diagnostics, press the diagnostic button on the MPU once. This is the lower of the two buttons as pictured at left. Both LEDs should flash and all displays will go blank. At this point, the game is ready to accept new game settings like &amp;quot;balls per play&amp;quot; via the obtuse and ridiculous to use dip switches on the MPU. Skipping over the process that essentially amounts to &amp;quot;memory pokes&amp;quot; (who remembers that), the diagnostics can now be controlled from the front door switches. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is in the MANUAL position, pressing the ADVANCE button will cause each score display to show all zeros. The next press will show all ones, etc. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is in the AUTO position, pressing the ADVANCE button will cause the score displays to begin cycling, starting with all zeros, then all ones, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating System 3 and 4 game diagnostic entry can be found &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;[https://youtu.be/Bq7Bubb5X6w here]&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7CoinDoorSwitches.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3 - 7 Coin Door Switches]]&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;For System 6-7 games, follow this procedure to test displays, lamps, coils and switches.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the AUTO/MANUAL switch in the MANUAL position, press the ADVANCE button. This will cause each score display to show all zeros. Pressing the ADVANCE button again will display all ones, etc. If the AUTO/MANUAL switch is moved to the AUTO position, the score displays will advance automatically through each of the digits (zero through 9). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the AUTO/MANUAL switch still in the AUTO position, press the ADVANCE button to advance to the next test. The match portion of the credit/match display will show &amp;quot;01&amp;quot; and all playfield lamps will begin to cycle on/off. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing ADVANCE again will display &amp;quot;02&amp;quot; in the match window, and the game will begin an ordered activation of each coil in sequence (including buzzers, flashers, etc). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing ADVANCE again will display &amp;quot;03&amp;quot; in the match window. This is &amp;quot;switch test&amp;quot; mode. If no switches are closed, the credit half of the credit/match window will be blank. Closing a switch will result in the switch number being displayed in the credit window. If more than one switch is closed when switch test begins, the number of each switch will be displayed once in the credit window. After that point, only closing a switch will cause it&#039;s number to be displayed. i.e. switch test does not cycle through all closed switches but instead displays ONLY the last switch closure detected (at least in System 3 games).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the ADVANCE button one more time displays &amp;quot;04&amp;quot; in the match window, and game status information is displayed in sequence, automatically for system 3 and 4 games and by pressing the advance button for system 6 and 7 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Quick Start: Repairing a Williams System 3-7 MPU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The procedure for repairing a Williams MPU is outlined below. More detail can be found later in this document.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace the power header at 1J2, which is located on the left side of the MPU. The cornerstone of a well running MPU is clean, consistent power. Tarnished connections, worn connections that have exceeded the mate cycle spec, and cracked header pin solder joints all negatively impact power.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If the OEM chip sockets are still on the board, replace them with quality twin leaf or machine pin sockets. Good chip sockets will ensure rock solid connections between the ICs and the various busses.  Always replace Scanbe and white Molex sockets - no exceptions!&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:OEMROMs.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The ROM on the right in this picture has obviously been heat stressed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Examine the 40-pin male connector closely. If it exhibits any of the following characteristics, replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
*Tarnished pins&lt;br /&gt;
*Corroded pins (due to batteries on the MPU leaking corrosive alkaline)&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured solder joints&lt;br /&gt;
*Solder joint “craters”, i.e. an attempt to “reflow” the solder joint that doesn’t adhere to the pin very well.  The solder surrounds the pins, but does not create a solid electrical connection to the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Verify the ROM contents. The OEM ROMs at least 30 years old, and have been subjected to thousands of hours of heat, consequently reducing their reliability. Replacing them with known good ROMs is a better option if possible.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Measure power coming onto the board at the filter capacitor. About 5VDC should be present, with very little AC component (measure AC too).&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Test socketed processors and PIAs in a known working board. AMI branded chips seem to experience a much higher failure rate than any other brand and are always suspect.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use a logic probe to test the processor reset signal at pin 40. The signal should start low at power on, then go high a split second later.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;With a schematic of the board handy, “sanity check” each pin on the processor to ensure each leg is doing something that makes sense. i.e. data lines D0-D7 should be pulsing.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Make certain the blanking signal goes high and remains high almost immediately after successful MPU boot. The blanking signal is easily tested at pin 37 of the 40-pin interconnect board.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Install Leon’s test ROM to verify processor, PIA, and memory operation.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Further Recommended Reliability Improvements===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace all headers. Reflowing solder does not create a solid mechanical or electrical connection.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace masked ROMs with new ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
#Update the MPU to use fewer sockets. i.e. use a 2716 (or double the image into a 2732) at IC14.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the backup battery to a remote location or install NVRAM. Batteries should be removed from the MPU board as soon as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding System 3-6-like Diagnostic LEDs to a System 7 MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7DiagnosticLEDAddition.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Diagram depicting addition of 2 LEDs and 2 resistors that provide the same function as System 3-6 MPU boards]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7FactoryLEDs.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A System 7 MPU with factory installed diagnostic LEDs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 7 MPUs replaced the two diagnostic LEDs of past systems with a 7-Segment LED display to provide diagnostic indications. At times, the 7447 driver IC or the 7-segment LED display itself can fail. Or perhaps running system 3-6 software in the board, while retaining the LED diagnostic capability, is the objective. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rather than replacing the 7-Segment display or 7447, adding System 3-7-like LEDs to the MPU is easy. Procure 2 standard LEDs and two 1/4 watt resistors of any value between 100 ohms and 560 ohms. Incrementally higher ohm resistors will dim the LEDs incrementally, but can still be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Add two resistors on the right-most pads as pictured at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Add two LEDs to the top two available pads as pictured at left, with the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; (the short leg or anode) oriented toward the 7-segment display. It&#039;s as easy as that.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Quick Start: Repairing a Williams System 3-7 Driver Board==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The detailed procedures for repairing a Williams driver board can be found later in this document.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace the 40-pin female interconnect. Due to fatigue and/or battery damage (alkaline corrosion), this connector can and will become unreliable over time.  Replace it.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Remove and reflow the solder on &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;*all*&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the header pin connectors.  Another choice is to replace the connectors with new ones.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Replace all suspect chip sockets. PIAs on the driver board were the only chips socketed from the factory on this board. However, the factory used crappy Scanbe sockets for these chips. If Scanbe sockets are present, replace them.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Inspect the PIA chips.  If AMI chips were used, suspect eventual, premature failure.  Replace if possible.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If the factory 3 watt current limiting resistors in the lamp matrix appear heat damaged, replace them with 27 ohm 5 watt resistors. &amp;quot;Sand&amp;quot; resistors are a good replacement choice.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;If heavy heat damage is present in the vicinity of the lamp matrix power resistors, suspect potential failure of the lamp matrix ICs (IC13 &amp;amp; IC14) located just above the resistors.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing==&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes it is more beneficial to do testing / troubleshooting while the MPU and / or driver boards are outside of the game.  It&#039;s unfortunate, but the System 3-7 boards were designed in such a way that both the MPU and driver board have to be attached to one another for the MPU to effectively boot and function.  Since the driver board has no intelligence located on it, it needs to be connected to the MPU to be of any use.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 On Bench.JPG|300px|thumb|left|WMS System 6 MPU and Driver Board Powered by a PC Power Supply.  Power connections are attached to the readily available test points on the MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Bench Power.JPG|300px|thumb|right|WMS System 7 MPU and Driver Board Powered by a PC Power Supply.  Power connections are attached to IJ2 on the MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The voltages needed to power a System 3-7 board pair on the bench are +5v, +12v, and ground.  Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on 1J2 (only header connection on left side of MPU board).  The connections are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1-3 (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 4- 6  (+5 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 (+12 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If connecting a &#039;&#039;&#039;System 6 or 7 board pair&#039;&#039;&#039;, it is easier to connect to the test points.  The connections are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 1 (+12 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 9 (+5 volts)&lt;br /&gt;
*Test point 10 (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that test points 9 and 10 have different locations between a System 6 and 7 MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting a Logic Probe to the Williams System 3-7 MPU ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3LogicProbeConnection.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Connecting a logic probe to a System 3-7 MPU. This picture is a System 3 MPU.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6LogicProbeConnection.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An alternate method to connect a logic probe on a System 6/6A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The easiest way to power the logic probe is across the input power&#039;s electrolytic filter cap, as shown on this Williams System 3 board at left.&lt;br /&gt;
All MPUs, including Systems 3, 4, 6, 6A, and 7, feature this cap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU and driver board logic are electrically connected and powered by the same source, connecting the probe to the MPU allows probing driver board logic also.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Connectors, connectors, connectors==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms cracked solder joints.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Cracked solder joints on the header pins of a Williams driver board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With this era of game, most of them 30+ years old now, and they will have problems with connectors. One of the most common issues is cracked solder joints on header pin connections to the PCBs. Some cracks are more obvious than others, while some can only be seen clearly under proper magnification.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms header solder removed.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Solder removed from the header pins of a Williams driver board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Although it can be somewhat time consuming and a tedious chore, it is best to remove the old solder from a header pin joint, and then add new, fresh solder. Performing this procedure is a necessity on these games to ensure reliability. The other option is removing the header pin connection completely, and replace with a new one.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game starts to reset for no reason during play, or when both flippers are engaged, it may be worth first re-pinning the connectors at 1J2 on the MPU Board and at the outputs from the PSU. This is always a good step even if it does not fix the immediate issue, as it avoids power problems later on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This will involves replacing the header pins on the PSU board and the female connectors on the cables. The pins are .156&amp;quot; and square pins are preferred, although round are still available. Use phosphor bronze. On the female side, crimp pins of the trifuricon type are best. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Second prize goes to reflowing solder to the back of the header pins, and just replacing the female IDC connectors with new ones. In that case rather than a crimper, the .156&amp;quot; &#039;punch-down&#039; tool &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;must&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; be used for this replacement to work correctly. If the correct tool is not used, the IDC housing and pins will be damaged, especially if a screwdriver or some other makeshift tool is used. After that, the wires just don&#039;t seat correctly and will not maintain proper contact. Always cut back to clean wire and punch down correctly to a new IDC connector, reusing an old one rarely works.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the connector is a .156&amp;quot; 9-way connector at 1J2. There is also a &#039;key&#039; pin where the hole is blanked off on the connectors and the pin cut off flush with the board. This prevents plugging the power in to say the switch matrix or swapping two connectors over. It&#039;s easiest to just buy a bag of these for blanking off the &#039;key&#039; positions, rather than try to re-use old ones.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Wiring Connector Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7BlownICs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Socketed and replaced ICs blown by incorrect connector hookup.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams made a poor wiring harness design decision with this series of games that allows the cabinet harness to be connected to the head harness (36 pin inline connectors). Mating these connectors incorrectly will short the 28V solenoid circuit to the logic voltage level circuit, destroying ICs on the MPU and perhaps the driver board. Always be sure to double check connector pin counts and colors, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;but most importantly,&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; wire colors going into and out of both sides of the connector. Connector color is not a 100% reliable indicator as Williams sometimes used white connectors, sometimes used black connectors for both, and sometimes may even have used one black and one white connector. Wire colors should always match up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A real world example on a System 7 Jungle Lord, pictured at left, resulted in MPU IC7 (7404), IC32 (7400), and IC12 (7408) being blown. The 5101 wasn&#039;t destroyed. On the driver board, IC16 (7406) was also damaged. The amount of damage can vary, however, other instances suggest a similar path of destruction. The best course of action should this occur is to spend a lot of time with a DMM in diode test, checking each individual IC. Socketed ICs, like the 5101 and the 6808/2 can be easily tested in a known working system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==System 7 MPU Board Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
Diagnostics, and the &#039;System 7 MPU Board won&#039;t boot&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Forget about getting anything at all on the Player Displays without having working ROMs in place and a good MPU board.  Blanking has to go &#039;high&#039; before the displays will work.  So coin door game diagnostics are useless until the MPU board runs correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But help is at hand on the System 7 MPU, Williams added a single 7 segment LED display to the board. To get anything at all on the 7 segment display LED on the MPU, these conditions must be met:&lt;br /&gt;
* The 74LS47 Display Driver IC34 to be working.&lt;br /&gt;
* The  6821 PIA (at IC18) on the MPU responsible for driving the score displays to be working.&lt;br /&gt;
* The logic +5v to be good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally when a properly functioning board boots, the 7 segment LED display will flash &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; briefly and then the display is turned off, and remains off. If within a game, the game would then be in attract mode if everything was perfect.  Pressing diagnostics should show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and then return to attract mode with the LED display blank.  [ed Note: Correct me if that is wrong]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the above-mentioned chips are installed and working and the sockets have been replaced or tested good:&lt;br /&gt;
* With no ROMs installed, a board with a fault or a ROM fault if they are installed, the &amp;quot;top two&amp;quot; LEDs (if there) would be lit and the LED display would show &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.  The MPU board is &#039;locked up&#039;, in that condition.&lt;br /&gt;
* Display Driver PIA IC PA4 - PA7 will be high.  Pressing the * Diagnostic switch will not change things.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then an OS is needed, which is the &#039;Flipper ROMs&#039; in pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
When they &#039;Boot&#039; (provide a set of instructions to the CPU)- even with the Game ROM removed, the fist thing they do is to &amp;quot;turn off&amp;quot; the LEDs 1+2 and so the onboard LED display (7447) would then go blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fact, &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; should flash once and go blank.  That means the board is not locked and at least booted the OS.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Installing a good Game ROM after that may provide access to the diagnostics if everything is working up to this point.  Pressing the diagnostic switch should then provide a (hopefully) valid indication of what component is stopping the (pinball or whatever) from running. Here are the key indications (for System 7, Sys 8&amp;amp;9 may be similar):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These results can appear with error conditions by using the Flipper and Game ROMs, or the 2532 WMS Test ROM in IC17 (on Sys 7 boards):&lt;br /&gt;
If all the support chips are good, and one &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; flash appears and then goes blank, then the on-board error display can be trusted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;&#039;Press the diagnostic button, the numbers are:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; |System 7 LED Diagnostics&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Meaning&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|0 || Test Passed (only if display goes blank)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || IC13 RAM Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || IC16 RAM Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || IC17 ROM 2 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || IC17 ROM 2 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || IC20 ROM I Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || IC14 Game ROM 1 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || IC26 Game ROM 0 Faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || IC19 CMOS RAM or memory protect circuit faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || Coin-door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or IC19 CMOS RAM Faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Getting a 0 and remaining on could potentially be that the CPU / board has not successfully reset.  In other words, no instructions have been passed to and from the CPU chip.  This problem could be due to a faulty reset circuit.  The lack of +12v on the MPU board can cause this too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Getting an 8 or 9 is *good* indication - it means the board is almost there!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some further tips about those conditions:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8  - MPU board may be good. Is it looking for the Driver Board?  (Like the missing 7th flash on a Bally MPU).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure the Driver Board is connected and the &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; interconnect has continuity on all pins.&lt;br /&gt;
From System 8 on there is no interconnect... so by System 9 MPU and Driverboard (and Sound!) are all one PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then suspect that IC19 RAM is faulty or finally a memory protect fault.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9 - First check for coin door closed (or pin 1J4-1 or 1J3-1 is being grounded), then is IC7 faulty? Finally is IC19 RAM faulty?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is displayed, it may be tempting to install it in a game, open the coin door, and try and boot up. But this is wrong, as there still is a problem on the board. Either the IC19 5101 CMOS Ram is faulty, or another memory protect component is faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remember to do the &amp;quot;switch on, off and back on again quick&amp;quot; trick to see attract mode appears when reinstalling in a game after taking an MPU out. Many times, that does the trick.  Also, if removing the Driver Board and reinserting it on the MPU board &#039;fixes&#039; the problems and the boards will then boot correctly, then it points to the &amp;quot;40-way&amp;quot; connector needing to be replaced.  Both header pins on the MPU and sockets on the Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Parts:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 7-Segment display can be replaced with a KINGBRIGHT  SA03-12HDB  LED  0.3&amp;quot;  RED  DISPLAY.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5101 CMOS RAM.  5101-1 The low power version is needed, as it needs battery backup to hold RAM contents when the game is powered off.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A 6821 PIA is a standard part. MC6821 MC68B21 are common.  The 6820 designation is much earlier but also works.  Other designations:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
xx6821, xx68A21, xx68B21, where xx can be MC (Motorola) or HD (Hitachi Data) will all work.  The &#039;A&#039; in 68A21 means the PIA will run at up to a 1.5Mhz Clock , the &#039;B&#039; in 68B21 means up to a 2Mhz clock, without any letter is up to 1MHz. Any final letter is Package type (P,S or L)  P=Plastic S=Cerdip and L=Ceramic.  Any of the above speeds or package types will work for this era of pinball, so the letters can be ignored and any 6820 or 6821 can be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Chip Sockets==&lt;br /&gt;
Reliable socket connections are a requirement for any printed circuit board to work as designed. Old sockets, as discussed below, should be replaced.  Use extreme care in desoldering the old sockets, the traces and pads on circuit boards are easily lifted, especially if any battery corrosion is in the area.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The chip sockets on old Williams boards (also most any board of this era) are long past their reliable lifetimes. They may work, but they may also cause intermittent connections that will have you chasing your tail tracking down odd problems with the game. Like the 40-pin interconnect used in Williams System 3-7 games, these sockets should always be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Perhaps the most maligned socket brand, and rightfully so, is the Scanbe brand. In the picture below, it can be seen why. These 30+ year old sockets passed the point of reliability many years ago. Included in the Scanbe socket picture below are two pins pulled from a Scanbe socket. The pins were designed to grip the SIDES of the IC legs, unlike the design of modern sockets that grip the front and back faces of the IC leg. Get rid of them now.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later, WMS switched to sockets made by Augat or Raychem (all Tyco now). They occasionally go bad, but they can usually be left alone. But there is another type made by Molex which should also be replaced if it is found on a PCB. When looking at the picture below, it can be seen why. Curvy isn&#039;t it? And the contacts break easily too. Not as bad as the Scanbe but not much better either.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=5 caption=&amp;quot;Poor quality and old sockets found on many early pinball machine circuit boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Speech Scanbe Socket.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;It&#039;s hard to believe that these sockets ever worked.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Scanbe Removal.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A Scanbe socket being removed from circuit board by gently prying it up.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ScanbeSocket.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Closeup of the infamous &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; brand socket. &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; is molded into the top of the socket face.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ScanBeSocketPins.jpg ‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Closeup of &amp;quot;Scanbe&amp;quot; socket pins. Surface contact area was small from the factory.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSMolexSocket.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Another bad socket type usually found in system 7 pcbs. This one was made by Molex.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==Voltages==&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board needs two voltages to boot: +12v which only the MPU uses for the reset circuit, and +5v (logic power) for the MPU and Driverboard IC chips.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game goes dead, but the sound board continues to work then there may be a fault with the PSU, power connections to the MPU, blanking or the reset circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for sounds by pressing the sound board diagnostic test.  The game will need to bed switched off &amp;amp; back on to cancel the looping sound test.  The sound board has its own PSU.  It takes 18v AC directly from the transformer and makes +12v (reset) +5v ( logic) and also -12v (Speech and  mixers). It&#039;s probably OK to assume the +5v and +12v going to the MPU (and Driver Board) are OK from the PSU if the sound board boots and runs.  It&#039;s like a mini MPU, with the same CPU and one PIA chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main PSU board only needs to make the first two, +12v and +5v (no -12v) for the MPU and Driver board.  But it also generates DC power for the flippers and the solenoids (+28v DC or so).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Power Supply Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
The key thing to remember is that the PSU board is made up of separate output circuits combined on one board.  They don&#039;t interact, and are in order:  &lt;br /&gt;
* +18v for Lamps,&lt;br /&gt;
* +28v Solenoids (and Flippers), &lt;br /&gt;
* Regulated +5v for logic B+ and an unregulated +12v for CPU reset, &lt;br /&gt;
* +/- 100v HV supply for the Displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We&#039;re not counting the G.I. (General Illumination) circuit as it is AC only and is fused on the fuse card below the PSU.  It only passes through the PSU board to be fused and controlled with a relay starting from System 7 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Input AC power gets to the PSU board directly from the transformer for the +5v/+12v and the display voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
However, in the case of the Lamp and Solenoid voltages AC is &#039;full wave&#039; rectified (to DC) &#039;&#039;before reaching the PSU board&#039;&#039;.  This is done using two Bridge Rectifiers BR1 for Lamps (to the Right of the backbox) and BR2 for Solenoids and Flippers (to the Left of the backbox).&lt;br /&gt;
  &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lamp Voltage Supplies:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* The  +18v DC Lamp voltage passes through a very large &#039;blue can&#039; filter capacitor between the BR and the PSU board.  This  &#039;smooths out the &#039;bumps&#039; (called AC ripple ) in the DC waveform.  &lt;br /&gt;
** Because the MPU Controlled Lamps (for the inserts) are strobed by the Lamp Matrix, the resultant voltage to the bulbs is &amp;quot;averaged down&amp;quot; to about 6v DC.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Lamps are rated at 6.3v and 250mA for #44 Bulbs (so 1/4 Amp) or 150mA for #47 Bulbs (about 1/7 of an Amp).  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Because they use less power, #47 bulbs will generate less heat.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Replace any shiny &#039;silvered&#039; bulbs and any that say 0.3A as they burn way too hot and will ruin inserts and cause paint to flake on your backglass!&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; This has nothing to do with the G.I. (General Illumination circuit) which is fused on a fuse card and reaches to G.I. bulbs as about 6.3v AC.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** As they (almost) always stay lit, the G.I. bulbs tend to last longer running on an AC voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The AC is &#039;Tee-d&#039; off to the cabinet, playfield and the insert board (for the backglass lighting).&lt;br /&gt;
*** Wire colors for G.I. (and must be measured as AC) are Yellow and Yellow/White.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Flipper and Solenoid Voltage Supplies:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* The +28v DC Solenoid voltage passes straight through to the PSU where it is fused before leaving on the way to the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
** There are some additional components (a varistor and some filter capacitors) on the PSU board for the Solenoid/Flipper power.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Connectors on the PSU Board&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* All AC voltages come into the PSU board in the large 12-way connector 3J1, while the black ground wires are on the 6-way 3J2.  &lt;br /&gt;
**The fused &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;AC and DC&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; voltages exit on the larger of the &#039;D&#039; shaped connectors, while the black Lamp and solenoid ground wires exit on the smaller of the &#039;D&#039; connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;+5v Logic and +12v Unregulated Supplies:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*In the case of the +12v (and +5v a logic power), the AC comes into the PSU board at 3J1-10 11&amp;amp;12 directly from the transformer windings.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can measure about 10v AC in at the bottom of the diodes D7 and D8 with respect to the board&#039;s ground.&lt;br /&gt;
*** The total AC input is 18.6v, so each diode &#039;sees&#039; 9.3v because the transformer winding &#039;center tap&#039; at 3J1-12 is grounded.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** D7 connects to 3J1-10, and D8 to 3J1-11 and you would trace connections from there back to the transformer.&lt;br /&gt;
*** If you measure AC across the bottom of these two diodes you should see the full 18.6v AC.&lt;br /&gt;
*** Do not worry if this AC value is higher without a load, it can (and will) vary with changes in line voltages.  &lt;br /&gt;
*** Values over 20v AC are considered normal without a load.  &#039;&#039;It&#039;s a &#039;schoolboy error&#039; to chase the voltages of unregulated supplies trying to get them to be exact.&#039;&#039;  This includes the AC input and +12v DC unregulated supply.&lt;br /&gt;
** The two large diodes at D7/D8 rectify the voltage to around +12v DC, again this is unregulated.&lt;br /&gt;
*** It is filtered by a large capacitor (12,000 uF or higher) to smooth out the AC ripple.&lt;br /&gt;
*** It is fused at 4A Slo-Blow, before exiting at 3J6-6 as the +12v DC for the reset circuit on the MPU Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* To generate the regulated +5v logic supply&lt;br /&gt;
** The +12v input is filtered more by capacitor C16 and then passed through X3 which is a +5v voltage regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
** This exits at 3J5-6 as exactly +5v for the Master Display Board ICs and at 3J6-7 to 3J6-10 for the other +5v supplies (MPU and Driver Boards).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Please note that the Sound Board generates its own +12v and regulated +5v supplies for both Sound and Speech Boards.  This is discussed in the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Sound_.2F_Speech_Board_Issues | Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board Repair]] Section.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===General Illumination Connection Design Flaws===&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with System 7 games, the general illumination passed through the power supply.  This was done to turn the general illumination off (for effect) via a newly added relay on the power supply board.  Unfortunately, Williams did not spec connections which could properly handle the current used for the general illumination.  The end result was connections, whether it be housings or header pins, which became hot and / or burnt.  As the connections tarnish, resistance increases, and the connections become hotter. The cycle continues until an inline fuse blows, or in most cases, discontinuity in the circuit occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only option is to purchase the proper Molex housing and pins and replace both the male and female connections.  Replacing one side but not the other is futile.  The issue will reoccur at a much faster rate than replacing both sides. Another preventative measure is to reduce the amount of current draw by replacing the lamps with LEDs.  LEDs draw less current than 44, 47, and 555 bulbs, and the GI connections become less of an issue in the future when LEDs are installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU===&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a document for troubleshooting and repair of the Williams System 3-6 [[Media:PSU-Display-PWR.pdf|PSU Board Display Power]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An attempt was made to create step by step tests so that reading a schematic is not required.  Includes replacement parts for the HV section repairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the 1/4A (0.25A) fuse at F1 always blows on power up, you may have a shorted UDN IC chip on the Master Display Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
See this section on [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Master_Display_Drivers_for_System_3_to_6 |Sys 3-6 Master Display Drivers]] for testing all the UDN chips on the display board.  You can use these tests for both UDN7180 and UDN6118 (or UDN6184) IC&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Try removing the master display power connectors.  If that stops the F1 fuse from blowing, suspect the Master Display Driver needs repairs before you rebuild the HV section of the PSU.  Test the HV outputs of the PSU without any displays connected and see if the proper voltages are being generated from the PSU without a load.  You need +5v logic, +100v and -100v supplies to run the Master Display board correctly.  This will let you figure out if you need to rebuild the Master Display, the HV section on the PSU Board or both.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;From experience, if components on the PSU Board HV section are stressed, it is best to go ahead and rebuild the entire HV section replacing all components with new parts from a $10 kit.  It will save you time!&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===PSU Parts Suppliers===&lt;br /&gt;
Check with:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-29.asp Ed at GPE] has HV rebuild kits and most parts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://lockwhenlit.com/Products.aspx Rob Anthony&#039;s LockWhenLit] (Borygard from RGP) may also have some PSU parts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.bobramstad.com/pinball/sys6ps.html Bob&#039;s PSU parts list] shows the Mouser part numbers which is useful if you live in the USA, or just want to order a few items for your PSU repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also check with your favorite electronics supplier.  Please be aware that NTE replacement parts may have wide tolerances so they will be compatible with a greater number of original parts. So get the correct replacement parts wherever possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===PSU Diagrams and Resources===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Please refer to these files while using this section to diagnose and repair your PSU Board:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:11-powerwiring-sys4-6.pdf|Williams System 3-6 Power Wiring Diagram]] showing the wiring from your AC mains plug right through to the connection to the PSU board, Sound Board and the G.I.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:07-powerlogic-sys3-6.pdf|Williams 3-6 PSU Logic Diagram]].  A PSU Board Schematic for System 3-6 games, containing test points with approximate voltages and help with fault finding your game&#039;s power.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Troubleshooting and repair of the Williams System 3-6 [[Media:PSU-Display-PWR.pdf|PSU Board HV Display Section]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* External link to a PDF of [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Downloads/W3-11_HV_Kit.pdf WMS HV parts and instructions] from Ed at GPE, a great place to get your HV repair kits. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources to visit&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Except for the possible use of different transistors for Q1 and Q3 the later System 9-11 HV section is very similar in design.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_9_-_11#Display_problems |Sys 9-11 Master Display Driver Problems]], for more detail before starting your repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Missing PSU Upgrade Sections to add&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Testing the AC in and DC out for all sections, including the Solenoid and Lamp BRs.  Simple to do, but should it be spelled out? &lt;br /&gt;
* How to fit the replacement transistors with the &#039;twisted legs&#039; as the SDS-201 and SDS-202 are obsolete.  Although a diagram is on the GPE PDF for Ed&#039;s HV kit, some shrink wrap tubing could be added to the &#039;lowest leg&#039; to reduce failures.&lt;br /&gt;
* How to fit the 2 x 1n4763a 91v zenerDiodes, at locations Z2 &amp;amp; Z4 to reduce the Display out put to about+/-90v under load and extend display life.&lt;br /&gt;
* Repin of Headers at 3J1 and the used pins at 3J2, theory for using crimped trifuricon connectors and new housings which replace the existing female IDC connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
...etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==The MPU Reset Circuit==&lt;br /&gt;
The +12v for reset goes into a circuit that waits (for about a 1 sec. delay) for the +5v to stabilize before it lets the CPU boot. If the +12v (or output from the reset circuit) drops, the reset halts the CPU, PIA(s) and the 5101 CMOS RAM chips before the +5v to them dies. A shutdown of the CPU will also pull blanking low and halt solenoids, lamps and displays to protect them from further damage (coils firing, memory glitching) during the power down. So spikes or drops to the +12v line may halt the CPU at the wrong time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An MPU unable to boot may mean that its reset circuit is faulty.  A +12v line comes in from the PSU board to the MPU on pin 9 of 1J2. That&#039;s the top pin on the top left (and only connector on the left) of the MPU board.  +12v can also be measured at TP1 on a System 6, 6a, or 7 MPU.  Don’t get hung  up on it being exactly +12v, as it&#039;s not regulated.  However, it can’t drop too much lower than +11.5v, or the reset circuit &#039;&#039;&#039;may&#039;&#039;&#039; have a problem generating enough voltage to keep reset “up” to the CPU.  But +11.5v to +14v is not unusual and will still work.  A fluctuating reset can cause the game to reboot during a game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The state of the reset (high or low) can be observed at pin 40 of the 6808 or 6802 CPU chip.  Likewise, the reset can be observed at TP8 on System 6, 6a, and 7 MPU boards.  TP8 is located just to the right of IC19 (5101 memory) on a System 6 or 6a board, and the far right test point on the bottom of the MPU just above the 40-way connector on a System 7 MPU board.  It will be marked as TP8 on the PCB mask. For System 3, 4, 4a MPU boards, the reset will have to be measured at pin 40 of the 6800 CPU board.  When booting the game and watching reset, it stays low for a heartbeat after power on and then rises to +5v.  +4.75v or around that is fine.  Don&#039;t get hung up too much on the voltages being exact for the reset circuit either.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the +12v appears OK when measured, and the sound board is always booting and working, it&#039;s safe to assume that +12v at the PSU is stable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A good trick to &#039;inject&#039; a reset, is to try connecting +5v for a second or two to the reset test point at TP8 or the leg of the CPU chip (pin 40).  If the CPU boots (reset must be a logic high now on pin 40 of IC1), then the reset section will need to be rebuilt..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So that involves running a jumper lead from TP8 and &#039;&#039;&#039;briefly&#039;&#039;&#039; touching TP9 (+5v). TP9 is located just to the bottom right of the battery holder on a System 6 or 6a MPU board, while it is at the top right the battery holder on a System 7 board. The battery holder should have been removed, so the test point is located in the vicinity of where the original holder &#039;&#039;&#039;used to be&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Repairing the Reset Circuit &#039;Divide and Conquer&#039;===&lt;br /&gt;
Assuming that the game boots and works if the CPU reset pin is held high, how can it be determined what is wrong?  One solution is the shotgun method: just start changing transistors and components until it is fixed. However, this wastes time and parts. A better way is to narrow down the fault location using the &#039;injection&#039; trick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reset circuit is easily seen as two halves. For a System 7 MPU board, +5v can be applied directly to the top of resistor R12.  If the board boots and stays stable, then that indicates the problem is on the &#039;right hand&#039; side of the circuit. (On System 6, the same thing can be done, but using R32.  This method helps narrow down the faulty components by a half.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Assuming that the +12v getting to MPU board is good, if the above injection of 5v doesn&#039;t work, measure where the voltage disappears on the left hand side of the reset circuit.  Then replace parts on that side, checking for a good reset when the board boots each time. Remember that for System 6 and 7, there are just 12 active components that make up the reset circuit, and 8 of those are transistors.  Those are usually the source of the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step One===&lt;br /&gt;
The Right Hand Side.&lt;br /&gt;
Start by replacing transistors Q6 – Q9 (all 2n4401 NPN) get 10 or more of them, they’re cheap to buy and they are commonly used. They are used as pre-drivers for the solenoid power transistors on the driver boards for System 3-7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Test the board for the previous booting problem.  If they are still there, replace the two zener diodes:  ZR1 is a 6.8v Zener (1n5996) and ZR2 is a 3.9v Zener (1n5990) - you can&#039;t replace these components with anything else to my knowledge.  These are critical values.  And put the orientation of the band of the diode the same way as the ones that are removed. Taking a photo of how the circuit in the top left of the board looked before making any changes is a good idea.  Or, only replace components one at a time.  A test boot could be done on the bench each time something is replaced, but that may slow things down. On the other hand, this may result in avoiding replacing more components than necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It should be booting now, if not attack the other half.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step Two===&lt;br /&gt;
The Left Hand Side.&lt;br /&gt;
Start by replacing transistor Q2.  Q2 is a 2n4403 PNP transistor, cheap as well but you won’t need as many for pinball repairs.  then replace Q3-Q5 with the 2n4401 &#039;s like before.  I would replace D19 (a 1n4148 fast switching diode) you could test it with the diode setting of your DMM, but I don&#039;t trust testing diodes in circuit, and if I’m soldering in that section, I just cut it out and replace it. Cost will be pennies, and most pinball people should have new ones on hand. Again, be sure and notice the direction of the band on the old diode, and put the new one back the same way.  Same thing goes for the orientation of the flat side of the transistors.  Don’t get them wrong when replacing.  The last component to replace would be the capacitor at C27 (10 uF @10v is the original part –look on the side of the cap).  Replace it with a tantalum 10 uF @ 16v, if you can find it.  You can go up in voltage even to 20v or more, but don’t change the value of the capacitance.  Note that some caps have markings showing a (-) side, usually running down the side of the capacitor.  If it shows a polarity, the (-) side of C27 points down on the PCB, towards the 40-way interconnect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Step Three, Hopefully Reset is Back Up===&lt;br /&gt;
That’s it.  Usually fixed at step one, and down to one (or more) of those transistors.  I have seen a zener or the 1n4148 diode at D19 be the problem before.  But for me, the cap C27 has always been good.  If all else fails, test the capacitor for a dead short with the power off and replace it with a 10uF electrolytic if it is shorted to ground or you aren&#039;t sure it&#039;s working.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit (System 6 and 6a)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 Reset Stock.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Williams System 6 MPU board stock reset circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 MPU Reset Gen.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 6a MPU board reset circuit with an MCP130-460GI/TO reset generator installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on System 6 and 6a MPU boards.  A reset generator can be installed.  To do so, some components will need to be removed and two jumpers installed.  The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following transistors - Q4 and Q6&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R43, R38, R39, R41, and R42&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove zener diode ZR1.  This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP130-460GI/TO where Q4 was (green highlighted area in image).  Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q4 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q4).  In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the top pad and bottom pad of where R39 was (yellow highlighted area in pic).  Essentially, replace R39 with a zero ohm jumper. &lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the top pad of R42 and the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; collector pad (top pad) where Q6 was installed (orange highlighted area in pic).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired.  Please consult the System 6 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed.  The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460GI%2FTO Great Plains Electronics].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6_Reset_Gen-Pullup.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 6A MPU board reset circuit with an MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator installed with a pull-up resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Alternately, an MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be used, except a 4.7K 1/4 watt pull-up resistor will have to be added to the reset signal line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following transistors - Q4 and Q6&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R43, R38, R39, R41, and R42&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove zener diode ZR1.  This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO where Q4 was.  Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q4 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q4).  In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the bottom pad of where R38 and R39 formerly were. &lt;br /&gt;
#Add a 47k 1/4w resistor between the top pad of where R38 was and the bottom pad of where R41 was.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit (System 7)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Reset Components Remove.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Components to remove from a Williams System 7 MPU board reset circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys7 Reset New Components.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Williams System 7 MPU board reset circuit with a reset generator installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like the System 6 and 6a MPU boards, a reset generator can be installed on a System 7 board. Some components will need to be removed, a single jumper installed, along with a 4.7k ohm resistor installed.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove Q2 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from left to right as installed on the board) R27, R24, R31, R25, R29, and R30 (resistor located to the right of Q2)&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove zener diode ZR1. This will keep any of the existing components in the reset section from being powered by the unregulated 12 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO where Q2 was (this is the same reset generator as used on Data East MPUs). Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q2 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install where the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; emitter was for Q2). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the left.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the bottom pads where R27 and R24 formerly were.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a 4.7K ohm 1/4 watt resistor in place of R25.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7ResetSection.jpg ‎|left|thumb|300px|All components of the reset section have been scraped except those required to use the MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator (marked with gold Sharpie). In this picture, the 74125 stuffed at the factory has been removed as it&#039;s original function was to read the DIP switches. System 7 games do not read the DIP switches.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU will no longer need the +12VDC to successfully boot. The remaining components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired as pictured at left. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP120-460GI%2FTO Great Plains Electronics].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; if using the MCP130 variety of reset generators, the 4.7K ohm resistor does not need to be installed as they incorporate the resistor internally.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Reset Circuit Summary===&lt;br /&gt;
Connectors were mentioned above for completeness.  While I agree a good 40-way connector is essential for correct operation of this era of games, changing the  Bridge Rectifiers in the backbox or rebuilding connectors probably won&#039;t help fix the reset circuit .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That because the &#039;&#039;&#039;BR&#039;s are only for the Lamps and Solenoids&#039;&#039;&#039; and won&#039;t fix a problem with the MPU power (or reset) as that is sourced directly from the PSU.  The +5v logic power comes from a regulator on the PSU board, and the +5v for the reset pins of the MPU ICs is created on the MPU from the +12v unregulated supply. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are looking here because game resets (reboots to attract mode or locks up) when flipping the flippers, it makes sense to check and rebuild the solenoid power circuit as well.  That is the flipper power on games prior to System 7 when 50v flippers and a Flipper Power Board was introduced.  You should also read the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC_5VDC_Power_Derivation_Path WPC section], while the games only similar- the approach for resets caused by power fluctuations is sound.  It takes you from the &#039;AC mains&#039; wall plug right through to the power needed on the boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Topics such as electrolytic capacitors aging and drying out, testing the Bridge Rectifiers and checking and tweaking the LM323K 5V regulator on the Power Baord will all be the same or very similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==The Blanking Circuit==&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking circuit is used by the MPU to prevent damage to the game when the MPU can not determine that the game is in a valid state. A low blanking signal means that the MPU isn&#039;t operating properly and the blanking circuitry is &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; (turning off) the lamps and displays. A high blanking signal means that the MPU is operating normally, allowing lamps and displays to function normally. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the driver board, the blanking signal is logically ANDed, by 7408s, with the enable signal for all 8 of the lamp strobes and the first 16 solenoids.  The 6 special solenoid enable signals are not ANDed with the blanking signal.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the MPU, the blanking signal for the displays leaves the board via connector IJ3 pin 4 (top left connector on board).  For the driver board blanking signal, it leaves the MPU board at pin 37 of the 40-pin interconnect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A special note: the blanking signal will only go high when the MPU and driver board are connected.  It will not go high if testing with a stand alone MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7BlankingLED.jpg|thumb|400px|left|A &amp;quot;blanking&amp;quot; LED added to a Williams System 3-7 Driver Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Adding an LED as shown in the image will let you easily monitor the Blanking state while troubleshooting. Note that the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED faces away from the 40-way connector and is on the same side as the shorter lead. The “current limiting” 150 ohm resistor is soldered to the ground trace.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the System 6/6A MPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem6MPUBlanking.jpg | thumb | right| 400px| A blanking signal indication can be added to a System 6 MPU quite easily.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the TP4 test stud. This is the blanking stud.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the &amp;quot;non flat side&amp;quot; of the LED into the open hole.&lt;br /&gt;
#The &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED is oriented up, or toward the top of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder a 150 ohm (or so) resistor between the flat side lead and ground trace that has a zero ohm resistor soldered to it.&lt;br /&gt;
#All done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Adding a Blanking Indication LED to the System 7 MPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
A blanking signal indication can be added to a System 7 MPU can be done in at least two very clean ways.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When the LED is lit, the blanking signal is high, indicating a properly functioning MPU.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Option 1 ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Implementing this modification assumes that the battery holder trace is no longer in use!&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Blanking test point stud (numbered &amp;quot;4&amp;quot;). Since we are adding a blanking indication LED, the stud is no longer required.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install an LED, with the flat side pointing toward the former location of the battery holder and the other leg through the hole created by removal of the blanking TP stud.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the LED lead through the former battery holder hole and solder.&lt;br /&gt;
#Form a 150 ohm 1/4W resistor between the appropriate battery holder hole and the fat ground trace along the perimeter of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Scrape the solder mask from the board, enabling the resistor to be soldered to the ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder both ends of the resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a label to indicate the meaning of the LED; lit means blanking is on and the MPU is working properly; unlit means blanking is off and there is a problem with the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=480px heights=480px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Option 1: Adding a Blanking Signal Indication to a System 7 MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7BlankingLEDFront.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;An LED replaced the Blanking test point stud, flat side pointing toward the battery holder hole.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem7BlankingLEDBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;The back of the System 7 MPU, showing connections of the LED, repurposed battery holder trace, and 150 ohm resistor connection.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Option 2 ====&lt;br /&gt;
This method does not require the battery holder to be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Clean the original solder from the lower of the 4 &amp;quot;paired&amp;quot; solder pads and the &amp;quot;via&amp;quot; pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install an LED, with the flat side oriented as indicated by the silkscreen&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, connect a 150 ohm 1/4W resistor to the LED lead on the &amp;quot;flat side&amp;quot; of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the other end of the resistor to the large ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the &amp;quot;non flat side&amp;quot; lead of the LED so that it can pass through the via hole and solder securely. This connects the LED to the blanking signal.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, sever the trace shown in the image below that runs NorthEast from the LED (trace severed at gold dot using a Dremel tool and ball cutter bit).&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a label to indicate the meaning of the LED; lit means blanking is on and the MPU is working properly; unlit means blanking is off and there is a problem with the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=480px heights=480px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Option 2: Adding a Blanking Signal Indication to a System 7 MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S7BlankingFront.jpeg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;An LED added to available solder pads, flat side pointing in the same direction as indicated on the silkscreen.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S7BlankingBack.jpeg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;The back of the System 7 MPU, showing connections between the LED, a 150 ohm resistor connected to ground, and the &amp;quot;non-flat-side&amp;quot; lead of the LED connected to the blanking signal.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Blanking Circuit Stuck Low===&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking circuitry that appears on Williams 3-7 MPU boards remained the same across all generations of Williams MPUs, all the way through the System 11 board set. Data East copied the same blanking circuitry too!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The blanking circuit explained&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#A properly executing CPU will send data to the display 6821 PIA at IC18 at regular intervals. &lt;br /&gt;
#This action causes PA2 at pin 4 of the 6821 at IC18 to periodically pulse.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is inverted by the 7404 at IC7, in at pin 5, out at pin 6.&lt;br /&gt;
#The coupling capacitor at C32 can be ignored. These ceramic caps rarely fail.&lt;br /&gt;
#The signal is applied to the base (pin 2) of a 2N4403 at Q5 and to pin 8 of the 556 timer at IC23.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 556 timer is configured as a &amp;quot;missing pulse detector&amp;quot; meaning that if it does not detect the pulse that originated upstream at the 6821 PIA at IC18, the output of the 556 timer at pin 9 (and 13) will go low, which invokes blanking and protection of the system circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Upon a successful boot of the MPU board, the blanking will go from a low signal to a high signal, and remain high (no pulsing) as long as there are no issues. If the blanking signal does not go high, the system has not and will not boot.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the most common issues for a blanking signal to remain low is discontinuity between the MPU board and the driver board.  The blanking signal passes via the 40-pin interconnect at pin 37 (4th pin in from the left side).  Poor connections due to fatigue or seeping battery damage can cause a break in this connection.  It is best to replace both the male and female sides of the 40-pin interconnect to ensure that all is well.  Remember, the blanking will not go high, if the MPU is not connected to the driver board.  A flaky connection with discontinuity between boards is the same as if they&#039;re not connected.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6 MPU Ground IC5.JPG|left|thumb|300px|A System 6 MPU board with the upper right battery holder through-hole circled, along with the ground trace and the 74LS02 labeled.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A special note about System 6 &amp;amp; 6A MPU boards.  The upper right through-hole for the battery holder passes the ground from the solder side of the board to the IC5 (74LS02) chip.  This through-hole can become compromised from battery corrosion or the careless removal of the battery holder.  If there is a break between the two sides of the board, ground will not be connected to IC5, and the chip will not function.  If this occurs, the blanking signal will never go high, and the board will not boot.  Just check for continuity between pin7 of IC24, the top right leg of chip shown and TP10, the bottom post on the right of picture. You may have to add a ‘stitch wire’ soldered to the top &amp;amp; bottom of the board going through the hole indicated.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys7_Blanking.JPG|left|thumb|300px|System 7 MPU board blanking signal trace]]&lt;br /&gt;
A special note about System 7 MPU boards.  The trace for the blanking signal is very fragile.  If the batteries have leaked on the board, or leached under the 40-pin header pins, make certain that the trace which carries the blanking signal has not been broken.  The break most commonly occurs at the junction of the trace and the component side of the through-hole pad for the header pin on the MPU board.  A continuity test can be performed to determine if the trace has been compromised.  Place one lead of the ohmmeter on TP4 and the other on pin 37 of the 40-pin header.  Also, keep the lead on TP4, and place the other on the 12th pad up on the far right of the board.  The header pin connector will have to be removed to inspect this junction, should there be a break.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Blanking Circuit Strobing===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a peculiar instance where the blanking circuit will be strobing.  The end result is erratic behavior from the displays and lamps (both the lamps and displays will be very dim if at all visible during attract mode).  The prime source of this issue is due to the C31 capacitor (1.0uF 25v axial tantalum) falling out of spec.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Driver Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The &amp;quot;Once Dreaded&amp;quot; 40-pin Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
The driver board mates with the MPU board using 40 x 0.156&amp;quot; extra long header pins on the MPU and female &#039;bottom entry&#039; Molex sockets on the driver board. Common belief is that these connectors are good for about 25 reliable connects and removals. While there may be disagreement with this number, the fact remains that the connector is good for a limited number of uses before the connection degrades. At that time, the connector must be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connectors between System 3-7 MPU and driver boards were/are a continual source of problems for this era of Williams machines. However, the issue was eliminated with the release of System 8, (and the more common System 9 platform), when the MPU board and driver board were merged together into a single board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the header pins on the MPU board aren&#039;t tarnished, burned, or previously sanded, you may be able to get away with re-flowing the solder on these pins following these steps.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heat up the pad, add a little new solder&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove all the solder you can (the old and new) with a solder sucker&lt;br /&gt;
* Add fresh solder back to get a nice flow around each pin&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms drvr interconnect.JPG|left|thumb|300px|The 40 pin female connector on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
Then, replace all the female connectors on the driver board.  Even if the driver board side pins look good, replace them.  Simple cleaning of the pins with a contact cleaner or burnishing them are not viable solutions. The bottom feed pins loose tensile strength over time, which degrades the connection between the MPU and driver board as they age. The picture at left illustrates the 40 pin female bottom feed connectors on the driver board. It should be noted that the connector in the picture is an extreme example of poor condition connections. Missing and alkaline damaged pins, connectors from position 17-40 on the left, are not the norm. Connections from position 1-16 on the far right are more commonly seen.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect Back.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Installing a new 40 pin female connector on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Interconnect Front Done.JPG|right|thumb|300px|A new 40 pin female connector installed on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
If using four 10 pin female connectors, (the originals on the driver board were five 8 pin), here&#039;s a little trick to keep them lined up nicely when soldering them.  Take the old 8 pin male header pin connectors, which were installed on the MPU board.  Install three of the 8 pin headers on the back side of the driver board and into the new female connectors (see picture to the left).  If any of the older header pin sections have battery corrosion on them, do not use use them for this.  Allow enough space between the connectors so some of the female connector leads can be soldered.  Solder all of the exposed leads on the female connector.  Once they are soldered in place, remove the male headers, and solder the remaining leads on the female connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Male40PinHeaders.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Fresh male headers installed on this System 6 MPU. Nice. Note the new headers are 10 pins long while the original headers were 8 pins long.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts for the MPU are:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Square .156&amp;quot; header pins. These can be found at Great Plains Electronics [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2420-10-2260 here]. Alternatively, Molex brand longer pins, part number 26-48-1080, can be used. Both of these options meet the length requirement for the pins to be at least 0.629&amp;quot; or 16mm length.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts for the Driver board are:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*10-way 0.156&amp;quot; Bottom Entry Female Molex Part Number: 09-52-3102 (4 needed per board). The original part, 5A-9066 8-way .156&amp;quot; Female Molex Part Number: 09-52-3082 (5 needed per board). Alternates are Molex 09-62-6104 and 09-52-3102 which are hard to obtain.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check with: &lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-82.asp Ed at GPE] or your favorite supplier for these.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:UsingFemaleHeadersToAlignMaleHeaders.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Female housings being used to align the male headers.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A trick similar to the method aligning the female housings can be used to align the male headers. Use the old (or new one housings) to align the male headers as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no substitute for doing this correctly, other than buying reproduction boards. A solution is a board made by Rottendog Amusements, where the MPU and driver board are [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 combined into one board].  Cost is anywhere from $350 - $400.  Another option is purchasing both the [http://www.pinballpcb.com/System3-7MainBoard.html MPU] and [http://www.pinballpcb.com/System3-7DriverBoard.html driver board] from Kohout Enterprises for $425.  When both boards are purchased, they can be tied together via an auxiliary ribbon cable.  Of course they can be connected via the 40-pin interconnect too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If doing it yourself, repairs on the MPU and driver board connectors can cost up to $30 or less in parts (header pins, sockets and solder), along with several hours to replace the connectors and pins correctly.  This of course depends on your level of soldering skills and the value you put on your time. It&#039;s a fairly long job but it&#039;s likely that it only needs to be done once.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Display Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
===Every-Other Digit Shown On All Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem3-6EveryOtherDigitOut.jpg ‎|thumb|left|300px|Half of the digits, or every-other digit, are missing on all displays. Unintuitively, the root cause of this failure is the lamp matrix 6821 PIA at IC10 on the driver board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This failure seems to occur quite frequently and perplexes most techs. While the 6821 in the MPU display interface circuitry would seem to be the logical culprit, it is the lamp matrix PIA on the driver board that is the actual villain. The issue shown at left was remedied by replacing PIA III (also known as IC10), the lamp matrix drive PIA, which is the middle PIA on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating this failure, and the correction, can be found [https://youtu.be/ckwoW_xuQSM &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Repairing the Master Display Driver===&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the detail here is for System 3 - 6a with 6-digit displays only.  So it does not include Alien Poker or Algar, which both used the System 7 type display setup.  System 7-9 used a smaller Master Display Board located on the back of the lamp board, and it had IDC type ribbon cables that ran to the 4 player 7-digit displays.  They added a 4-digit Credit/Match display which also used a ribbon cable. The harness connecting the backbox (PSU and MPU) signals to the Master board used the same &#039;edge-connector&#039; as System 3-6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===First, a High Voltage &#039;&#039;&#039;***Warning***&#039;&#039;&#039;===&lt;br /&gt;
With the game on you are dealing with +100 and -100v HV DC (High Voltage) going to the displays. That&#039;s a potential 200v difference and you only need to feel that once to know it.  Wear tennis shoes (trainers or any rubber soled shoe) when working on displays with the backbox open.  This is a shock hazard!  If you are not capable or happy with measuring these voltages with a steady hand, then get someone else to help you and be there to &#039;spot&#039; you.   Always a good idea and more fun than working on your own.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another useful tip is to remove Fuse F1 from the PSU (Power Supply Board). This is the HV fuse and is 1/4A Slo-Blow (250mA &#039;T&#039; fuse in Europe).  This will allow the logic (BCD binary decoders and Buffer ICs) to be troubleshooted with a DMM or Logic Probe without the danger of shocks or shorting them out when measuring TTL (logic) voltages. It may also save the logic probe from a crispy fate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Wiring Harness===&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes displays just go blank and it is a fault in the wiring harness from backbox to the Master Display Driver.  If you can swap a working Master Display Driver board from a System 3-6a game with stable displays, then do that as a first step.  This way you quickly determine if the fault is in the backbox &#039;&#039;&#039;OR&#039;&#039;&#039; the Master Display Driver PCB or displays on the front of the light board.  If it&#039;s the towards the backbox then suspect display harness cabing Driver to MPU, or the display PIA or decoding on the MPU. If you don&#039;t have the ability to swap in a spare Master Display board, then turn off the game and test the harness for continuity between the backbox (MPU board) and the cables at the left and right side of the Master using this &#039;&#039;[[media:10-displaywiring-sys-4-6.pdf|Master Display board harness wiring diagram]]&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Segment failures===&lt;br /&gt;
Segment failures on a single display could be that display failing. Same issue if just one display is blank.  Swap that display with another (power off first) and see if the problem moves with that display.  If it moves, it&#039;s that display glass or its board.  If it doesn&#039;t move and stays at the same player location, see below for the possible suspects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Segment failures on multiple displays and probable cause:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Players 1 &amp;amp; 2 Segments and master display Segments are out:&lt;br /&gt;
* BCD inputs are A1 B1 C1 D1 from the MPU board  &lt;br /&gt;
* MC14543 BCD to 7-Seg. Decoder IC5&lt;br /&gt;
* UDN7180 Display Driver IC9&lt;br /&gt;
* Resistors R1-R7&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Players 3 &amp;amp; 4 Segments&lt;br /&gt;
* BCD inputs are A2 B2 C2 D2 from the MPU board  &lt;br /&gt;
* MC14543 BCD to 7-Seg. Decoder IC8&lt;br /&gt;
* UDN7180 Display Driver IC10&lt;br /&gt;
* Resistors R8-R14&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start out by measuring all the resistors on the master display board with the power off.  &lt;br /&gt;
R1-R14 should be around 10K ohms.  Any that are not within about 10% (say a range between 9.6K to 10.4K ohms) need to be replaced.  Also look and see if any look &amp;quot;toasted&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Those resistors get cooked on the Master display boards and usually will then cause single segments to fail on both the player 1&amp;amp;2 or 3&amp;amp;4 displays together, as they are linked.  Te resistors need to be replaced with the same value: 10K but at 1/2 Watt.  Some of the modern &#039;metal film&#039; resistors are rated at 0.6W which is perfect and they fit nicely in that location.  Older 0.5W (1/2W) resistors are larger, but are fine.  Mount them slightly off the PCB so they get good airflow all around the resistor body.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do the above steps anyway, no matter what the display problem is although it&#039;s probably not going to be the whole story.&lt;br /&gt;
Replacement resistors are cheap and will prolong the life of your displays.  Reducing the voltage going to the displays when rebuilding the HV section of the PSU is a good step to take and will help as well.  You only need to replace two Zener diodes to achieve this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Digit Failures===&lt;br /&gt;
Strobe inputs for the display digits come in to three 14069 hex inverters on the driver board.  IC1, IC2 and IC3.&lt;br /&gt;
* IC1 is dedicated to the Master Display &#039;Credit/Match&#039;. Strobes are: 15,16,7,8 left to right, for the 4 digits it uses.&lt;br /&gt;
* IC2 and IC3 strobe inputs are more complicated, to strobe distribution between these IC chips is shown in the display diagram below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Strobe (or strobe input) failures are likely to show up in the player display pairings 1&amp;amp;3 or 2&amp;amp;4 because:&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 1-6  are shared for players 1 &amp;amp; 3&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 9-14 are shared for players 2 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===All Displays are Blank===&lt;br /&gt;
This could be that the +100v or the -100v HV are missing from the PSU board.  Both have to be there, so check that the output from the PSU and that the voltages (HV) are good first, and getting to the Master display driver to be relayed to the player displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are also 5 x  3 Mega ohm resistors, at R15-R19,  These are for the cathode &amp;quot;keep alives&amp;quot; and again should be near that value.  If the 3 Meg resistors don&#039;t look cooked and are within spec, check that you can see an &amp;quot;orange glow&amp;quot; in the displays when the lights in the room are dim or off.  If you see a faint glow (some describe it as an &#039;orange neon dot&#039;), then look elsewhere for the fault.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
If you don&#039;t see the display glow, check the wiring to the  connectors carefully looking for a burnt wire at pins 4J7-1 -2 and -6 &lt;br /&gt;
on the master display.  Do this with the power off, as you are dealing with 100v and -100v DC.  If you find a cooked wire, sometimes just cutting the wire back a bit to expose clean metal and then reinserting it firmly in the IDC connector will repair the problem with a bad connection for one of the HV lines.  Remove and reseat all the edge connectors on the master display board and especially examine the ones that go to the backbox.  You can clean the copper contacts on the edge connectors gently with an eraser to shine up the copper if it&#039;s dull or has &amp;quot;dead spots&amp;quot; worn on it.  Check any inline connectors as well. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I also recommend disconnecting all the player displays 1-4 at the  Master display.  Get it working with the just the credit/match and &lt;br /&gt;
then with one other display attached, like player 1.  Then add back the player 2-4 displays one at a time (you need to power off each time you add or swap a display), testing for correct function each time.  You can also swap the player displays as a diagnostic step and carefully observe if the fault(s) stay with the Display in question or move to the new location.  Use the &amp;quot;display test&amp;quot; on the diagnostics for this. After the above is checked, perhaps you do have to suspect the IC chips (or  for the discrete version the transistors).  Depending on whether the Segments or Digits are out, it will point you at a specific IC (or transistor array). Knowing which displays are out helps reduce the fault domain down to one chip.  You need be like a detective, following the clues.  Having a Master Display Assembly drawing and a schematic on hand will help with this process.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s hoping that it isn&#039;t one of the UDN6118A-1 (aka UDN6184-5) IC chips that&#039;s faulty.  Hard to remove from another board in one piece, without a de-soldering station and becoming obsolete.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, check that the display blanking connector is in place. This will be a 4 pin connector with a single wire. If this connection has failed or has been unplugged, the game will boot, go into attract and seem to be working, but the displays will remain blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays only showing even number===&lt;br /&gt;
This is caused by a display signal connector issue.  This shows up in pairs; player one and two or player three and four. Likely to be header pins on MPU board connector J5, J6, J7&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Scrolling Digits on Display===&lt;br /&gt;
The rather unusual issue of &amp;quot;scrolling digits&amp;quot; on the displays is caused by failed/failing filter capacitors on the power supply board. Over about 40 years of operation, these capacitors begin to fail and no longer effectively filter the high voltages. The OEM capacitors were rated at 100uf/150V. These capacitors can be replaced with 220uf/160V axial capacitors to correct this behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video of this behavior can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxIRdJ7ecBY &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 3-6 Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 3-6 Master Display Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
Master Display Driver Boards came in two versions, discrete and IC based.  Williams designed the discrete version when the UDN7180 / UDN6184 Gas Plasma Display Driver ICs became scarce (and they were expensive even then). There are some logic chips that decode the BCD data for the 7 display segments (MC15453 or MC15458) and to buffer and invert the display strobe lines for the digits (MC14069).  These buffers and decoders are common to both the D8000 and D8168 versions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Discrete version Display Driver=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display discrete.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board (Discrete Components)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D8168 board uses  MPSA92 (PNP in a TO-92 package) and MPSA42 (NPN also TO-92) transistors to drive the Master (Credit/ Match) and player scoring displays.  These gas plasma display driver transistors are available today and still very cheap to buy.  Unfortunately, this style of board is less common to find in the wild, but actually easier to maintain.  At least no one can try to charge you $20+ for an obsolete driver IC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====IC version Display Driver=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS sys3-6 master display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D8000 IC version board is composed of ICs that implement the transistor arrays.  Usual factory chips are the UDN-7180 for the Segment Driver and the UDN6118a-1 for the Digit Driver.  You may find the Digit Driver IC is a UDN6184-5 as well from Williams.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The UDN-7180 IC chips are still fairly easy to find. Cost should be reasonable, if you shop / ask around. (Sprague) or uPA6118c may still be available for $3-5 but have a lower breakdown voltage (~85v DC) than original part.  The displays run at +/-100v DC as standard and need the higher rated original part which is the the UDN6118A-1 (note we have -1 at the end).  The UDN6118a-1 is rare and also becoming very expensive, as much as $20+ for an IC chip.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you do find the &#039;&#039;&#039;lower rated UDN6118a (or uPA6118c)&#039;&#039;&#039;, then you will need to replace two zener diodes on the PSU to lower the display voltage down from 100v.  It&#039;s a good idea anyway on a working System 3-7 game.  Not overdriving display glass and less stress on the expensive display driver chips will lengthen the life of your game. Arcades sometimes had bright lights or windows, while in your home you won&#039;t notice any difference running at a lower voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I usually drop the voltage down leaving the Power Supply to about +/- 90v with 2 x 1n4763a 91v zeners, at locations Z2  &amp;amp; Z4.  This seems to work well, but you are still probably driving near the limits of the replacement UDN6118a.  Unlike the Bally games of the same era, there is no fine adjustment on the voltage output of the HV section of the PSU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the Power Supply repair section for more information about parts to use and other upgrades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remember to compare the costs and trouble of repairs with buying a replacement Master Display Driver board:&lt;br /&gt;
* If all that is wrong with the Master is that the Credit/Match display is out, but it drives all player displays correctly, in my experience the repair is easier than on the player display parts of the driver board:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Carefully placing a new 6-digit glass against the pins of the non-working display will confirm if it is the display glass or an IC chip that has failed.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Be Careful of the HV (High Voltages) when doing this, and only hold it by the display glass as it is a natural insulator!  It takes a steady hand and some practice, but this test will work on other player displays as well.  This usually proves the old display has a digit/segment missing, is &#039;out gassed&#039; or is just prone to flickering.  This isn&#039;t foolproof, it works works provided the existing display doesn&#039;t have a short. If both displays exhibit the fault, cutting the correct &#039;leg&#039; or legs in the middle on the old display may help reveal this, and you can bend it back and solder back together if it&#039;s not shorted.      &lt;br /&gt;
** You replace the Master display glass with a standard 6-digit gas plasma display, you can even use an old (but working) player display.&lt;br /&gt;
** You can also replace the Master display with a player display that has a digit fault and would otherwise be unusable! It&#039;s possible because the &#039;100,000s&#039; and &#039;100s&#039; digits are not used on the Master [x00x00].  So you can take two faulty components (a non-working Master and non-working player score display) and make a working Master Display Driver Board.  Pinball repair nirvana.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you feel the display glass is good, you can look to the ICs which are dedicated to driving the Master (or Credit/Match) Display:&lt;br /&gt;
* Start by testing IC1, a 14069 Hex Buffer/Inverter with your logic probe.  Run the display digits diagnostic test, with the Auto/Manual switch in the Auto/Up position.  The digits on all displays should be counting 0-9.  Test the strobe lines are being inverted.  The strobe lines and associated pins are in the diagram given below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When reading this diagram remember that Player 1&amp;amp;3 Score Displays share Strobes 1-6, while Player 2&amp;amp;4 Score Displays share Strobes 9-14. One strobe for each digit.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Master Display has 4 digits only: Strobes 7,8,15,16. So if the output pin is not the inverse of the input pin or a signal is missing, then replace IC1.  It&#039;s available as a 4049U or MC14049UB. Cost is maybe 50 cents, certainly &amp;lt; $1 even in low numbers.  Useful chips to buy and have around, as the 4049 is also used on the System 3-7 Driver Board for the switch matrix and on other later games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys3-7-Displ-Digit-Driver.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Digit failures will show up in these pairings if they are related to the strobes (so digit drivers):&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 1-6:  shared for players 1 &amp;amp; 3&lt;br /&gt;
* Strobes 9-14: shared for players 2 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
* The Diagram below is the same for all games, as are the Master Displays which makes them interchangable:&lt;br /&gt;
* The Table / Diagram is listed in the most obvious order: Master, Player 1,2,3,4 displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a clearer Table from the above diagram:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |MASTER DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT DRIVER&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER BUFFER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|(Left) 10,000||IC4  pin 1 / 18 ||align=center|15	||IC1 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000        ||IC4  pin 3 / 16 ||align=center|16	||IC1 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10           ||IC4  pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|7   ||IC1 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|(Right) Units||IC4  pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|8	||IC1 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 1 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 2 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100,000 ||IC11 pin 1 / 18 ||align=center|1 ||IC2 pin  5 / 6||align=right|100,000 ||IC11 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|9  ||IC3 pin  9 / 8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10,000	||IC11 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|2 ||IC2 pin  3 / 4||align=right|10,000  ||IC11 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|10 ||IC3 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000  ||IC11 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|3 ||IC2 pin  1 / 2||align=right|1,000   ||IC12 pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|11 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100	||IC11 pin 4 / 15 || align=center|4 ||IC2 pin  9 / 8||align=right|100     ||IC12 pin 6 / 13 ||align=center|12 ||IC3 pin 13 /12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10	||IC11 pin 5 / 14 || align=center|5 ||IC2 pin 11 /10||align=right|10      ||IC12 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|13 ||IC3 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|Units	||IC11 pin 6 / 13 || align=center|6 ||IC2 pin 13 /12||align=right|Units   ||IC12 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|14 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 3 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |PLAYER 4 DISPLAY&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
!DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!(UDN)6184 DIGIT&lt;br /&gt;
!STROBE&lt;br /&gt;
!4049 INVERTER&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100,000||IC12 pin 1 / 18 || align=center|1 ||IC2 pin  5 / 6||align=right|100,000 ||IC13 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|9 ||IC3 pin  9 / 8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10,000 ||IC12 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|2 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4||align=right|10,000 ||IC13 pin 4 / 15 ||align=center|10 ||IC3 pin  5 / 6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|1,000 ||IC12 pin 3 / 16 || align=center|3 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2||align=right|1,000 ||IC13 pin 5 / 14 ||align=center|11 ||IC3 pin  3 / 4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|100 ||IC12 pin 4 / 15 || align=center|4 ||IC3 pin  9 / 8||align=right|100 ||IC13 pin 6 / 13 ||align=center|12 ||IC3 pin 13 /12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|10	||IC13 pin 1 / 18 || align=center|5 ||IC3 pin 11 /10||align=right|10 ||IC13 pin 7 / 12 ||align=center|13 ||IC3 pin 11 /10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=right|Units ||IC13 pin 2 / 17 || align=center|6 ||IC3 pin 13 /12||align=right|Units ||IC13 pin 8 / 11 ||align=center|14 ||IC3 pin  1 / 2&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If that doesn&#039;t fix it, next move on to the Segment Drivers:&lt;br /&gt;
*Look at IC4, the UDN6118A, follow the steps to do a DMM test of the UDN chip.  A trick here can be that all the pins are not used (because of the missing digits, so it is possible to make use of the original UDN6118-A-1 (or UDN6184-5) that has a previous fault and one I/O pair is faulty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This works for the Master Display, so I would keeep a faulty UDN chips (or a faulty board) for spares.  You never know (e.g. there is an &#039;&#039;extra unused pair&#039;&#039; on every UDN7180 type chip pins 1+18 when we get to Segment driver tricks!!! This does not work when you get to for System 7-9 Masters, as all the pins are used.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pairs that &#039;&#039;&#039;are needed&#039;&#039;&#039; for IC4 are: (1,18) (3,16) (5,14) (7,12).  So you can get away without pairs: (2,17) (4,15) (6,13) (8,11) so you can have up to 1/2 the chip faulty, but it needs to be the right positions without using wire jumpers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a way to test the UDN6118&#039;s with the power off and your DMM (multimeter).&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;With the game OFF&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the power in to the Master Display board, connector 4J7. &lt;br /&gt;
**DMM goes on the Diode test setting, usually a symbol like this:  -&amp;gt;|&lt;br /&gt;
**Red lead clipped to ground, I use the ground braid in the backbox, or on the display board connected by a jump lead (alligator clips each end)&lt;br /&gt;
**Touch black lead to the UDNxxxx pins 2 through 8&lt;br /&gt;
**You should get .5 to .7 for each pin&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Then touch Black lead on each UDNxxxx pins 17 through 11. &lt;br /&gt;
**An open reading (no reading) is the correct result.  &lt;br /&gt;
**A shorted display glass can show up during the UDNxxxx 11 through 17 test.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pairs 1,18 and 9,10), the UDN chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board. Take care to preserve this chip, as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace. Now install an IC socket in its place. Repeat the test with no chip installed. If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced. If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Notes on different board revisions:&lt;br /&gt;
Williams also used the DI-0512 (Dionics-512) for the Digit Driver IC. I have owned the discrete transistor version, but the Dionics-512 version is even harder to find, and I&#039;ve not seen one in 7 years of collecting.  That&#039;s not to say they are not out there. &lt;br /&gt;
All the troubleshooting instructions above are intended for the UDN type boards, but the Dionics boards work in a similar way, so consult the schematics.  You will also need to make sense of the warnings below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Warnings:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
These are factory changes, but if you replace or swap chips, you should be aware of the following&lt;br /&gt;
* The Display board must run similar chips, so for example all UDN-6118 / UDN-6184 types for the Digit Drivers OR all DI-0512 Digit Drivers (which are longer, meaning they have more pins). They have different power requirements!  The two Segment Driver ICs need to match, too.  So two MC14548 ICs at IC6 &amp;amp; 7, OR two MC14543 ICs at IC5 &amp;amp; 8. Mix &amp;amp; Match or having all four installed is mental (crazy)!   You should have empty pads on the board for the optional IC chips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* With the DI-0512 at ICs on these boards, the &#039;10K&#039; resistors R1-R14 are all 15K. Adjust the repair instructions below accordingly.&lt;br /&gt;
* If IC4 and IC11-14 are UDN-6118 chips, then a +100v trace is cut connecting pin 2 of connector J7 and ZR1 (1N4740A Zener diode) is added.  &lt;br /&gt;
* With the DI-0512&#039;s this trace is left, and there is no Z1 used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D8000-Cut-Trace.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Williams System 3-6 Master Display Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes a HV arc can occur between two pads on the Master Display board, and if this happens it will blow out the HV section of the PSU (power Supply Unit).  If you have the UD7180 version of the System 3-6 Master Display board, it may be worthwhile taking this &#039;&#039;&#039;easy step&#039;&#039;&#039; to prevent a problem:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an unused track on the front of the board near to the bottom right corner of the Master display glass. The top round pad in this picture is unused on the UDN7180 version but goes to the +100v supply at Pin 2 of 4J7. Click to expand the picture at left for a better view.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It appears that the pad shorted out to the ground track that goes around both of the round pads. Cutting the track to the top round pad as shown in the picture (with the board removed from the game) will cause no problems for the displays on your game. And it could prevent disaster.  A short could damage the HV section of the PSU, even the Master Display board itself. I have seen it happen, so better safe than sorry.  BTW- This track &#039;&#039;&#039;should not be cut&#039;&#039;&#039; if the Dionics Digit Driver ICs are installed.  The writer has owned many games and has never seen a board with the Dionics ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Sound / Speech Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
Sounds and speech are one of the most important parts of a pinball game for me.&amp;amp;nbsp; Few things are more depressing for me than the sound of a pinball rolling around the wood with no background noises and without sounds of points being scored.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This section deals with the square sound board Type 2 ( System 6 &amp;amp; 7, with or without the speech &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;). The Williams part number is 1C-2001-146-x, although much of the information applies to the Type 1 boards (System 3 &amp;amp; 4).&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
A description of the sound board Type 2:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The sound board is actually a &amp;quot;mini-MPU&amp;quot; board running a 6808 CPU and a single 6821 PIA. So read the MPU board sections about the replacing sockets and the reset circuit as it will work in a very similar way.&lt;br /&gt;
* It has an external 6810 RAM for the CPU registers / &#039;stack&#039;. This can be replaced by internal RAM in the 6802 CPU if that is used. &lt;br /&gt;
* It has it&#039;s own PSU (Power Supply Unit) and takes ~18v AC voltage directly from the games mains transformer and rectifies it to DC voltages that provide the +5v logic to the ICs and +12v for the CPU reset circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
* It provides -12v DC only used on the speech card for IC2 &amp;amp; IC3 the two 1458 OP Amps. They act as mixers for the analogue sounds and digital speech.&lt;br /&gt;
* A single 2K 2716 Eprom (ROM) which contains program instructions that &#039;boot&#039; the CPU and code to create the sounds. Different ROM versions are containing specific sounds are numbered: Williams&#039; Sound ROM 1, Sound ROM 2, Sound ROM 3...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last item deserves some explanation. The Sound ROM does not store sounds as samples, but as mathematical &#039;strings&#039; which describe parameters such as attack, frequency, decay and echo. So the board functions as a synthesizer, rather than playing a WAV file or compressed sound like an MP3 player today. In fact a 2K sample at 22K Hz sample rate could last about 1/10 of a second.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 4K 2532 Eproms on the Speech Board can hold sampled sound but at very low quality. [[Black Knight]] used 4 Speech ROMs for a total of 16K and could speak about 20 words along with the famous laughter. Earlier games having 3 Speech ROMs Like Gorgar or Firepower could speak only about 11 words using 3 x 2532 ROMs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Why did they provide a different PSU for the Sound card?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
This early Williams game design could be for ground isolation, perhaps to provide a cleaner sound by avoiding interference from the other components which created RFI. Notice that I used &amp;quot;early Williams game design&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;cleaner sound&amp;quot; were just used together in the same sentence. I have also seen Sound Boards where the BR1 was missing and replaced by 4 x diodes, which also works. Two were mounted on the front and two on the back, with the bands on the diodes all pointing in the direction of TP1 (+12v). Start at 1N5401, rated 100v @ 3A.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Understanding this background should help pinpoint the source of problems with Sounds and Speech on games of the early 80&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Useful Sound Board Repair Links===&lt;br /&gt;
Leon Borre&#039;s work is a good starting guide for Williams sound board repair. He was a clever guy in Belgium, who developed special test ROMs for lots of pinball systems, including Williams System 3 through 7. &#039;&#039;&#039; I can&#039;t thank him enough here!&#039;&#039;&#039; He developed a test chip that can be downloaded and burned to a 2716 Sound EPROM, which will start the CPU, &amp;quot;pulse&amp;quot; the PIA and also test the memory. It&#039;s harder to do any advanced fault repairs without this test ROM. So it&#039;s a good place to start if the sound board doesn&#039;t boot at all. Leon&#039;s technical article pertaining to Williams System 3 through 7 sound can now be found [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair here].&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Dave Langley&#039;s site [http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/techwilliamshardwareidsound.html robotron-2084.co.uk] has a clear diagram of jumper settings for most games on Williams Type 2 boards. Check jumpers first, W1 must be present if no speech board is attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing for a Sound Board fault===&lt;br /&gt;
Before starting to repair a Williams sound card, first determine that there is actually have a sound board problem! Do the sounds work correctly from the sound board &#039;self test&#039; by pressing the diagnostic button? Have you followed the diagnostic procedures in the game manual and checked the &#039;Solid State Flipper Maintenance Manual&#039; or equivalent for the specific game? There will probably be a fault on the sound board if the diagnostic test on the sound board produces nothing (or the wrong sounds) &#039;&#039;&#039;and&#039;&#039;&#039; grounding the input pins won&#039;t work. See the &#039;sound selects&#039; section for specific games below. Check out the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting section] first. After reviewing it, here are are some specific things to eliminate first: &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
* Bypass the volume control in the cabinet by removing the connector at IOJ4 and jumpering pins 1 &amp;amp; 2. It will be really loud (full volume in fact) so a couple K ohm resistor (3K?) looped around those two pins will substitute for the volume pot and save your ears.&lt;br /&gt;
* Take the sound board out, leave all the connectors still plugged in and the game running.&lt;br /&gt;
** The speaker and volume control can be set as above.&lt;br /&gt;
** Touch the back of the sound amp at IC1 with a finger - it&#039;s just under the Volume control connector J2 which was jumpered and has 5 legs. Not hearing this hum could be a missing +12v or a bad amp IC.&lt;br /&gt;
** A loud loud hum should be heard from the speakers, this proves the TDA2002 sound amp is working and also that the speakers are capable of producing sound. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Treat the sound board as a mini-MPU board (but with an on-board PSU) and all the usual fixes apply:&lt;br /&gt;
* Test there is around 18v AC coming in to the sound card. It&#039;s directly from the transformer to connector 10J1 and then fused with 2 x 8A fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
** Are both fuses good? Take them out and test them. &lt;br /&gt;
**Is the voltage getting further than the fuse clips? Are the fuses hot to the touch after the power is switched off? This may indicate high resistance at the fuse clips.&lt;br /&gt;
** Pin 5 of 10J1 is the &#039;center tap&#039; or reference for the AC. There should be about 9.6 V AC between pins 1 and 5, and the same voltage between pins 9 and 5.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use the test points to measure DC +5v +12v and -12v. A short-cut (and much easier) is to touch the Red test lead to the left side leads of the 3 big capacitors, with the black lead on Ground which is the metal trace on the edge of the board. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remember -12v is only needed for the speech board, and even around -10v will normally be fine.&lt;br /&gt;
**Don&#039;t worry if the voltages aren&#039;t perfect (especially the +/-12v DC which is unregulated). Only the +5v needs to be in a narrower range (4.8-5.2v).&lt;br /&gt;
**No +5v with +12v present suggests the 1 amp &#039;7805 5v regulator&#039; at IC8 is faulty. It looks like the TIP-xxx transistor as it is in a TO-220 case, with a heatsink. Measuring +12v input on the top pin and no +5v output on the bottom pin will confirm this diagnosis. Obviously the CPU (and other ICs) can&#039;t run without the +5v logic voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
* If there are Scanbe sockets, replace them first, including the ROM socket. The PIA can be left alone for now if it&#039;s soldered directly to the board and not socketed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Read the MPU board repair and troubleshooting if the board still won&#039;t &#039;boot&#039; (the CPU, working RAM and reset circuit are very similar).&lt;br /&gt;
** Because there are no LEDs to show the board is &#039;locked up&#039;, you will need to look at pins 9 - 20 &amp;amp; 22-33 on the CPU for any activity with a logic probe. If the CPU has started, there should be some activity on these address and data bus lines. If they are &#039;dead&#039;, then the CPU has not started.&lt;br /&gt;
** If you look at the CPU bus lines with Leon&#039;s sound board test ROM (instead of the sound ROM) you can see which lines are missing, and also will see the PIA lines &#039;dance&#039; as he calls it. The PIA I/O lines strobe Hi/Lo/Hi/Lo if they are working as they should. The test ROM will need to be burned on a 2716 Eprom.&lt;br /&gt;
** Review Leon Borré&#039;s [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair Williams sound board article] for advanced troubleshooting. You can fix boards more easily with his free test ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
** Note: The the test chip will not start on a Type 2 board with jumper W1 missing, unless the speech card is also connected. Mine didn&#039;t start &amp;quot;pulsing&amp;quot; without the speech card. Because of this, here&#039;s a &#039;&#039;key tip&#039;&#039;: &#039;&#039;&#039;Jumper W1, and set DS1: SW1 and SW2 to OFF and run without a speech board&#039;&#039;&#039; until the sound is working 100%. Do this now if you haven&#039;t removed the speech board already, it may not be obvious at first, but you have to get back to a basic setup and work forward from there.&lt;br /&gt;
See also [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Put the Sound/Speech Board on the Bench|Advanced Sound/Speech Board Repair on the Bench]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Back to Basics===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys6-7_Sound_W1_Jumper.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Temporary W1 jumper installed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Pot Alternate.JPG|right|300px|thumb|Bypassing the volume control]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The next step, once you have verified voltages is to remove the speech board (if one is fitted) and jumper W1. Verify W1 is present for any board you are working on, as no sound gets to the audio amp without a speech board or jumper W1 present.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To bypass the volume control, a 470Kohm resistor can be installed across pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 of connector 10J4. Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped and installed in a .156&amp;quot; housing. Although a 470Kohm resistor is used in this example, other values can be used to obtain the desired volume. 470Kohms sets the volume to medium loudness.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The .156&amp;quot; set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3-7 games and 9-11 games too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Modification for Noisy Type 1 Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
On the Type 1 sound boards, Williams did not use a small value bypass capacitor on the input to the 7805 +5V regulator as recommended by the manufacturer. This bypass capacitor is used to keep noise off of the +12V voltage rail, which is used by the power amplifier IC. Installing a .22uF ceramic capacitor across the input pin (pin 1 - left pin from front) and ground (pin 2 - center pin) of the 7805 regulator can significantly reduce the amount of noise and hum on these sound cards.  Important note -- the Williams Type 1 Sound Board schematic diagram has an error.  Pin 1 is the input, pin *2* is center pin and connected to ground and pin *3* is the output.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 4-6 Sound Selects===&lt;br /&gt;
Press the diagnostic switch on the Sound Board. When sounds do work on the sound board self test, but you get missing or incorrect sounds during a game, then a simple test for all models of sound card is to ground the input pins. This gives you an indication that the sound board is working, as each pin should produce a distinct sound. For Type 2 boards (square ones) that&#039;s 10J3 pins 2-4 and 7, pin 1 is on the right, It may also be the same pin locations on the Type 1 boards (Flash, and other System 3 &amp;amp; 4 games).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSType1SoundBoardBenchTestAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Type 1 Sound board connections and grounding sound select header pins. Here, one end of a jumper wire is clipped to the ground plain of the board itself.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Grounding those sound select pins is exactly what the Driver Board does during a game solenoid diagnostic test. It fires solenoids 9-13 to ground the select pins and this triggers &#039;sound calls&#039; on System 3-6 games. If grounding the sound board pins works, then suspect cabling between the Sound Board and Driver Board or faulty transistors (or pre-drivers) on the Driver Board for the System 3-6a games. You can ground the transistor&#039;s metal tabs from the chart below, if this does not produce sounds then the cabling between Driver and Sound Boards is then suspected.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that &#039;&#039;&#039;grounding the center tab of a transistor&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;does not test the transistor(s)&#039;&#039;, it only proves that the cabling from that tab out to the sound board select pins has continuity. It does not prove the transistor(s) work as a switch under the CPU&#039;s control. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is true for &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;any testing of solenoids (or flashers) by grounding transistor tabs&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It only proves that the cabling from the Driver Board out to the device is intact, and that the device has power and can function when grounded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So the Solenoid portion of the diagnostic test will help you figure it out for a System 3-6 game. It can perhaps help for System 7 game too, although remember that sound calls are triggered from the MPU board instead.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 6 (and earlier) you will have a fault on the Driver Board, and specifically the solenoids in the range 9-13 if the following are true:&lt;br /&gt;
* The self test on the sound board works as expected,&lt;br /&gt;
* Grounding tabs on the Driver Board produces the same sounds,&lt;br /&gt;
* But the game&#039;s diagnostic tests do not trigger sounds when testing solenoids number 9-13.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If it fires the device, the problem is the transistors or the logic on the driverboard and then the PIA upstream from them. You should first replace both the associated TIP 120/102 and the matching 2n4401 pre-driver transistors on the Driver Board (a fairly easy fix) and re-test. Then follow Driver Board testing and repairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a transistor gets shorted &#039;on&#039; (or a 7408 IC is faulty) and one of the sound selects is constantly grounded from the Driver Board, you will certainly get fewer and usually wrong (or no) sounds played. This type of problem can be chased around for hours, if you don&#039;t work logically through the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;25%&amp;quot; border=2&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;Driver Board Positions&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 2J9 ||&amp;lt;font color=blue&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;font color=blue&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || 6 || 7 || 8&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 2J9 ||&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; || 14 || 15&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;shows the 5 Sound Select Transistors on the bottom two rows of a System 3-6(a) Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If diagnostics don&#039;t work as you expect, as explained, ground the metal tabs of the TIP122 transistors (briefly - they may be real coils or flash lamps&amp;amp;#33;) on the bottom 2 rows of the driver board. You should hear 5 different sounds. The first 3 sound select transistors are at the bottom left of driver board. The first two the next row up are the remaining sound select transistors (solenoids 9-13 as shown on the chart above).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can of course also &#039;&#039;&#039;turn off the game&#039;&#039;&#039; and measure between the center tab and the input pins on the sound card with an DMM (meter set on continuity or Ohms). If you get high resistance readings, check for cold solder joints on the input pins of the sound board at 10J3. Then check the output pins on the Driver board at 2J9. Reflow the solder on all these pins. Do the other pins on the sound board at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another tip is that you should see the center tab of the &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue &amp;quot;sound transistors&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; running at about +5v DC on the driver board with the game running. If a tab is at zero volts, and others are at +5v then that grounded select points to the problem. Other TIP122 transistors could be at the coil potential, so have your DMM set to voltage and +50v or above for this test if it does not &#039;auto-range&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you get this far and can get 5 distinct sounds, then the problem is not the sound board, nor the connection to the driver board. With System 3-6, this could still be on the driver board and specifically: &lt;br /&gt;
* a power transistor TIP122, &lt;br /&gt;
* a matching 2n4401 pre-driver transistor , &lt;br /&gt;
* a 7408 logic IC&lt;br /&gt;
: and finally &lt;br /&gt;
* a 6821 PIA for Solenoids at IC5. As this is a 40 pin IC, it should be replaced as a last step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point just follow the driver board testing and repair guide to get further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Complete list of Driverboard 2J9 pins and the associated transistors (for Sys3-6) are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6 Driver Board 2J9 Sound Outputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Pin&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sol.&lt;br /&gt;
| Function &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Transistors&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Wire Colour&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;# 9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;0&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q31 / Q30&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt; / Black&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P8&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;(*)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;N/C&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P7&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#10 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q33 / Q32&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P6&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#16&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Coin Lockout*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q45 / Q44&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Grey&amp;gt;Grey&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P5&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#15&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Depends on game*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q43 / Q42&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Violet&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;2J9 P4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;#14&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Credit Knocker*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Q41 / Q40&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Blue&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q39 / Q38&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q37 / Q36&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#f0e68c&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;2J9 P1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Q35 / Q34&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Typical functions, but depends on the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
List of J3 sound select pins on the System 6 or 7 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&#039;&#039;&#039;System 6/7 Sound Board Inputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;10J3 Pin&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| Sol.&lt;br /&gt;
| Function &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Wire Colour&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;# 9&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;0&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt; / Black&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#10 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select&amp;amp;nbsp;1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P5&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#11&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 2&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#12&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 3&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#f0e68c&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;J3 P7&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;#13&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Sound Select 4&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;J3 P1&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;(*)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;N/C&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 6, using only 5 solenoids for sound limits the number sound and speech calls. Makes 2&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;=&amp;amp;nbsp;32 so only 31 usable combinations, a call of all 0&#039;s being null. But (using Firepower as an example) you then can have all the combinations of maybe 20 sounds plus the 11 speech phrases it &amp;quot;knows&amp;quot;. So it&#039;s enough given the small amount of sound and speech memory they had to work with at the time. In fact it&#039;s amazing&amp;amp;#33; For more background, see: An interview with [http://www.firepowerpinball.com/downloads/Eugene_Jarvis_Interview.pdf&amp;quot; Eugene Jarvis], the sound engineer and programmer for Williams at the time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Changing the sound board won&#039;t cure the problem of a missing solenoid signal, and a major clue is that the sound board tests good, and is also good when grounding the 5 input pins at (Board #10) J3 input connector on the sound board.&amp;amp;nbsp; While the &amp;quot;in game&amp;quot; sounds or game diagnostics will play incorrectly or have missing sounds. For example, an email from someone said that their Firepower game could say &amp;quot;Power&amp;quot; but not &amp;quot;Fire&amp;quot;! A fairly easy diagnosis if you know the game, it pointed to transistor Q35 (a TIP122, a better replacement is the TIP102) which was completely missing from the Driver board. Transistors on the bottom row often get bent back and forth and snap clean off - hard to spot if you aren&#039;t familiar with inspecting the Driver Board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That transistor&#039;s center tab connects to 2J9 pin1 and solenoid 11 then fires sound select #2, according to the table above. Without that sound select being triggered, only half the game sounds could be produced (2&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-1&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;=&amp;amp;nbsp;15). &amp;quot;Fire&amp;quot; was one of the missing sounds, there were others but they may have not been so obvious to the owner. They would not be listed in the manual as a sound triggered by an achievement (making to rollovers F-I-R-E in this case). The point is to use all the information available to help determine the root cause of your fault.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 7 Sound Selects===&lt;br /&gt;
By System 7, Williams had stopped using solenoids to fire sounds and had added a dedicated Sound/Comma PIA on the CPU board to trigger sound/speech. This meant more playfield coils and even flash lamps were now possible, as the Driver Board wasn&#039;t used to trigger the Sound Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On a Black Knight and later games, the fault could still be on the MPU board. Perhaps PIA 5 (IC36 a 6821 PIA) is suspect as this drives the sound board (and display commas) only. Again you can trigger sound selects by grounding pins on the sound board, and then move back to the header pins of the MPU at 1J8. The pins are12,11,10,9,8 in that order for the 5 sound selects 0-4 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The outputs of the IC36 PIA at PA0-PA6 connects to 1J8 starting at pin 12 (1J8 P12) and run backwards numbered as the Sound Selects in the table below:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;25%&amp;quot; border=2&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; |&#039;&#039;&#039;SYS 7 1J8 Sound &amp;amp; Comma Outputs&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Pin&lt;br /&gt;
! Function&lt;br /&gt;
! Wire Colour&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P1 || Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4 || &amp;lt;font color= Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / White &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P2 || Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2 || &amp;lt;font color= Violet&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P3 || Key (*) || N/C&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P4-7 || No Connection || White&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P8 || Sound Select 4 || &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#FFCC00&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Yellow&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P9 || Sound Select 3 || &amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P10 || Sound Select 2 || &amp;lt;font color= Blue&amp;gt;Blue&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P11 || Sound Select 1 || &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 1J8 P12 || Sound Select 0 || &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; / &amp;lt;font color=&amp;quot;#FFCC00&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Yellow&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In theory Williams had the ability to trigger Sound Selects 0-6 from the System 7 MPU board, and could have programmed 127 sound / speech calls. But the sound boards at the time never used that many, to my knowledge. So you only need to worry about the same 5 sound selects 0-4. Be sure to first &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;check the output pins at 1J8 on the MPU Board for cold solder joints&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;, before replacing the 40 pin PIA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Put the Sound/Speech Board on the Bench===&lt;br /&gt;
By this point, it is likely that there is a sound board fault. If you don&#039;t feel comfortable troubleshooting or don&#039;t want to get involved with low level board repairs, there are repair services available--check pinball communities/forums for recommendations. [[Williams_System_3_-_7#If All Else Fails|Reproduction sound and speech boards]] are also available if all else fails.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Pinouts.JPG|300px|left|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Pinouts]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If none of this helped so far, read the rest of the section below. The boards will likely need to be bench tested in order to proceed with testing. Any PC power supply has the +12v and -12v DC that will be necessary for bench testing, which are normally located on the motherboard connectors. The older the PC power supply, the better, as they will have a power switch, but there are two pins that can be jumpered (or connected to a switch) to enable the voltage outputs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Sound Bench.JPG|300px|left|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Connected to an AT Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Sound Test Points.JPG|300px|right|thumb|WMS System 6/7 Sound Board Connections for an AT Power Supply (Four Sound Board Test Points)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Search for an &amp;quot;AT Power supply&amp;quot; on the web for the connector locations or measure them with the DMM. The wires on one example were colored Yellow (+12v) and Blue (-12v). Ground was black as usual. Sliding the existing pins from the motherboard connector housing, and they will potentially fit right in a .156&amp;quot; socket to connect to the sound board. The +12 and -12 goes to the outsides of a 9 pin connector (pins 1 &amp;amp; 9) and the ground to the center pin (pin 5). It doesn&#039;t matter which way around the connector is installed--if the Bridge Rectifier (BR) is working it will sort it out by conducting through the correct diodes.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another method is to connect the AT power supply connections with alligator test leads directly to the four test points on the sound board. However, this method will not ensure that the bridge rectifer on the sound board is working or not.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point refer to [[Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair|Leon Borre&#039;s sound board test link]]. He has an excellent approach to a sound board that is dead. A copy of his sound test ROM will need to be burned to an EPROM. A logic probe (under $20) will also be needed, but Leon describes how to make an LED test probe with some wire, an LED, and a resistor which costs a few cents. The logic probe will be more versatile and easier to use. As mentioned before, the Test ROM can check the CPU, memory and also exercises the PIA inputs/outputs. An added bonus is that the test ROM will allow the board to boot, even though there are faults on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Checking for Sounds Prior to the Sound Amplifier===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys6-7 Sound Preamp Probe.JPG|300px|left|thumb|An unamplified speaker used to probe for sounds before the sound amplifier]]&lt;br /&gt;
A method to test for sounds prior to the amplifier is to check the output of the D/A converter. This can be accomplished by building a speaker set up. It starts with a low wattage speaker, which does not need amplification to produce sounds. A speaker from an old computer case is a great source. After acquiring a speaker, solder two wire leads to it. Then, solder an alligator test clip to one of the leads, and a small piece of solid, copper, house wire (14 or 12 gauge romex works well) or a small finishing nail to the other lead. The second lead will be used to probe the sound output before amplification. This speaker test set up can be used on any other brand sound board too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the speaker test set up is constructed, clip the alligator test lead to ground. Then, place the probe lead on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; collector leg / solder pad of the Q2 transistor, as shown in the picture. Once the probe is in place, press the sound board test button. The speaker will have to be placed close to one&#039;s ear to hear the sounds, if any sounds are being output. If the sounds are being heard, either the amp (IC1 - TDA2002) has failed, has lost connection (cold solder joints), or is not being powered properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally the probe would be used to check the sound output right on the leg of the D/A converter (IC13 - 1408). However, pin 4 of IC13 (the output) is adjacent to pin 3, which inputs the -12vdc power to the D/A converter. It is much safer to use the collector leg of Q2 as a probing point to avoid shorting pins 3 and 4 together.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the if the 1408 DAC has failed, it can be subbed with the more readily available DAC0808. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Getting Sound and Speech Working Together===&lt;br /&gt;
The very first thing is to make sure you have the correct jumper settings and ROM types.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can NOT &amp;quot;mix and match&amp;quot; sound and speech ROMs as you like.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My experience is on Williams System 4-7 pinball where the Sound ROMs are 2716 Eproms and the Speech are always 2532 Eproms. The exceptions are video games (and a few pinballs), such as Defender, Sinistar, Robotron and Joust which use a 2532 on the sound board ROM and each has special jumper settings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;You need the correct Sound ROM type for your game&#039;s Speech ROMs&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firepower &#039;&#039;&#039;and&#039;&#039;&#039; Alien Poker both use &amp;quot;WMS Sound ROM 3&amp;quot; no matter &#039;&#039;&#039;what&#039;&#039;&#039; the Alien Poker manuals (or ROM download archives) say. It&#039;s the only way I ever got speech to work on my Alien Poker. If you have [[Blackout]], you will need a 2716 Sound ROM 2 to go with Blackout&#039;s 2532 Speech ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is mainly a warning if you will be plugging together different boards on a workbench or when troubleshooting a problem, don&#039;t trust that all Sound ROMs work with all speech boards !&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a diagram on placement of the Speech ICs, as the layout of the ROMs aren&#039;t very logical. Check they are correct. This diagram works for any of this type of Speech Daughter board. Replace your game number nnn in ST-nnn-ROM# format. &lt;br /&gt;
See examples for [[Firepower]] (497), [[Alien Poker]] (501) and [[Black Knight]] (500), which are among my favourites. &lt;br /&gt;
The information is provided for clarity, it is recommended that you replace Original Speech Mask Roms with newer 2532 Eproms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; unless a System 9 speech board is available with jumpers, 2732 Eproms cannot be used for the speech board, unless the board is [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Speech ROM IC socket locations:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Speech-ICs.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also distrust the switch settings and be aware that you could have a faulty DIP switch on the Type 2 board. It can happen! Test by removing the 2-way switch, or jumpering across the back of the switch. If DS1-2 is not connecting, you will hear sounds- but no speech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clue here is that if you press the sound board diagnostic switch, you hear BOTH sounds and speech.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys67 Speech Scanbe.JPG|300px|left|thumb|System 6/7 Speech Board with Scanbe Sockets]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Speech Scanbe Socket.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Identifying Scanbe Sockets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: Speech ROMs and Speech Board sockets should eliminated, you can measure continuity on all pins from the Speech ROM to the bottom of the socket or back of board before replacing Sockets. If they say &#039;&#039;&#039;SCANBE&#039;&#039;&#039; then replace them as they will be faulty. &lt;br /&gt;
: Gaps in speech usually point to a faulty Speech ROM, look in the manuals for which ROMs hold the missing words.&lt;br /&gt;
: Suspect the logic selects on the sound board or the 40-way IDC connection between the speech board to the sound board. Watching for &#039;chip select&#039; pins 20 on each Speech ROM with a logic probe will help you see the chips being selected by the sound board. Again knowing which ROMs hold the missing phrases will help. No speech selects can point to the interboard cables, or missing outputs from IC2 (a 7442 decoder) &#039;&#039;&#039;on the Sound Board&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
:Bear in mind that the Speech card is an &#039;expansion board&#039; to hold ROM space for the speech and the digital/analogue mixer. The address and data buses extend across the &#039;40-way&#039; IDC connector in a similar way to the connector between the MPU and Driver Board. Except the connector solution is more robust and IDC was still used until recently to connect IDE PC hard drives. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other problems that could cause sounds but missing speech include:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
* W1 is jumpered, &lt;br /&gt;
* W9 is NOT jumpered (W4 is probably in place), &lt;br /&gt;
* IC7 (inverter) faulty,&lt;br /&gt;
* IC10 (6821 PIA) is faulty (use Leon&#039;s Sound Board test chip) &lt;br /&gt;
* Faulty speech board (no speech) or speech ROMs are installed incorrectly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switch 2 MUST be ON for speech. OFF for no speech. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switch 1 selects between Tones and Synth Sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
ON for musical tones (more like bings and bongs), &lt;br /&gt;
OFF for Synthesized Sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadd&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;ing=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;10%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=2 &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 2&lt;br /&gt;
| ON&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 1&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;DS1 Set correctly for Sounds and Speech.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| bordercolor=&amp;quot;#0&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;10%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=2&lt;br /&gt;
| SW 2&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| SW 1&lt;br /&gt;
| OFF&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp; &#039;&#039;&#039;DS1: Set for Sounds only.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp; You will also have to &#039;&#039;&#039;jumper W1&#039;&#039;&#039; if this is not in place.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Speech Board Issues==&lt;br /&gt;
===Common failure parts===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7SpeechBoardBefore.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Speech board sockets. These are Molex, but &amp;quot;they gotta go&amp;quot;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System7SpeechBoardAfter.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Nice twin wipe sockets, which are preferred over machine pin sockets.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first and most important action when debugging a Speech board is to eliminate all of the common failure issues. With these issues out of the way, it is much easier to focus on the real issues preventing proper operation. And, eliminating these typical trouble areas almost always brings the board back to full operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The most frequent reason for failure of the speech board are the OEM sockets. ScanBe sockets, or white sockets pictured here, should be replaced. If a ROM can be easily removed using only your fingers, the socket should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also check the ribbon cable to the sound card. It breaks frequently at pin 1 which carries the 5V Analog voltage. If you replace the cable make sure that you do not damage the J1 connector. The part is either NLA or so obscure no one stocks it. Fortunately you can gently pull off the cover and reuse it with a new cable. The counterpart is a standard ribbon connector and must be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your speech is garbled and you replaced the MC1458 chips the 55516 CVSD at location IC1 might be bad. This is somewhat rare but not unheard of. The part is long since obsolete and hard to source. It can be replaced with a 55532, 55536 or 55564. Only the 55564, which was used up to the Williams WPC era, seems to be somewhat available. Check your favorite pinball shop for it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As with all electronics other parts can fail but the above parts are responsible for around 95% of all speech card failures. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using the Sound Board Test ROM===&lt;br /&gt;
Leon&#039;s test ROM and instructions will be very useful. The ROM and instructions are available [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Williams_Early_Sound_Repair here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The the test chip will not start on a Type 2 board with jumper W1 missing, unless the speech card is &lt;br /&gt;
also connected. Mine didn&#039;t start &amp;quot;pulsing&amp;quot; without the speech card. You also need &lt;br /&gt;
to put the Test code on a 2716 Eprom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a key tip:  Jumper W1, and set DS1: SW1 and SW2 to OFF and &#039;&#039;&#039;run without a speech board&#039;&#039;&#039; until the sound is working 100%.   Do this now if you haven&#039;t removed the speech board already. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This may not be obvious at first, but you have to get back to a basic setup and work forward from there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following is an attempt to list notable Williams games that used these boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are conflicting lists, Hyperball could be a 2532 ROM #8. as the file hypsnd12.532 has a checksum of 0x25A8 - which doesn&#039;t match other sound ROM images.  So the list is not perfect.  Some corrections have been as of Feb 2011 after more research. If you have updates or can confirm Williams sound ROM numbers (and compared checksums) then please go ahead and edit this table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games with speech in the first table are right, I&#039;m less happy with the Video games and Hyperball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams&amp;amp;nbsp;Pinball Games which use a Type 2 Sound Board and a Speech Board:&lt;br /&gt;
{|  cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!NAME &lt;br /&gt;
!SYS&lt;br /&gt;
!GAME&lt;br /&gt;
!WMS SOUND ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Blackout&lt;br /&gt;
| 6&lt;br /&gt;
| 495&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 2&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Gorgar&lt;br /&gt;
| 6&lt;br /&gt;
| 496&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 2&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Firepower &amp;lt;font color=Blue size=2&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| 6&lt;br /&gt;
| 497&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=2&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| 7&lt;br /&gt;
| 500&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Alien Poker&lt;br /&gt;
| 6a&lt;br /&gt;
| 501&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3 &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;confirmed&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Jungle Lord&lt;br /&gt;
| 7&lt;br /&gt;
| 503&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Pharoah&lt;br /&gt;
| 7&lt;br /&gt;
| 504&lt;br /&gt;
| Sound ROM 6&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Steve Ritchie Game Design&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Video Games with Sound and Speech Board:&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sinistar (cockpit front) &amp;amp; Upright, Type 2,&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;ROM 9&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Pinball Games with Sound Boards Only:&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; width=&amp;quot;50%&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
! NAME&lt;br /&gt;
! SYS&lt;br /&gt;
!GAME &lt;br /&gt;
!WMS BOARD, SOUND ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Flash &amp;lt;font color=Blue size=2&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|486&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Warp&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|489&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Stellar Wars &amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(r)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|490&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Laser Ball&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|493&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 2&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Scorpion&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|494&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Algar&lt;br /&gt;
|6a&lt;br /&gt;
|499&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 1 Board, ROM 4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Cosmic Gunfight&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|502&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board, ROM 12&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Solar Fire&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|507&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 7&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Hyperball &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(n)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|509&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
SPECIAL&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 8 ?&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Barracora&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|510&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Fantasy&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|515&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 13&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Warlock (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|516&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 14&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Defender (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|517&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 15&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Joust (2 player pin)&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|519&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
SPECIAL &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Snd_IC12.532 ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Laser Cue&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|520&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Firepower II &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(m)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|521&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board,&amp;amp;nbsp;ROM 13&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;**&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|530&lt;br /&gt;
|Type 2 Board, ROM 3 &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
ROM 4 is on my game&amp;amp;#33;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue size=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;(r) &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Steve Ritchie Game Design&lt;br /&gt;
    &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;(m)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; Mark Ritchie Game Design&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;(n)&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; Not a Pinball, a gun game that shoots tiny pinballs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Sound ROM 1 was used from World Cup #481 to Scorpion #494, but not Laser Ball from my notes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;**&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; Quite a rare and beautiful pinball. Only 100 were produced, the last Williams System 7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is some useful [http://pin-logic.com/early_williams_pinball_game.htm pinball sound file checksum] information. At [http://pin-logic.com Tom Callahan&#039;s pinlogic.com]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|  cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!NAME&lt;br /&gt;
!WMS BOARD &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Bubbles&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Defender (Video)&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 1&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Joust (Video)&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;&amp;quot;VIDEO&amp;quot; &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(Checksum matches ROM 4 from Algar and Barracora)&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Robotron 2048&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Sinistar (cockpit rear)&lt;br /&gt;
|  Type 2 Board, &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;VIDEO &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROM 10&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;Please Note: VIDEO&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; ROMS and those for Joust (a 2 player head to head pin) and Hyperball are 2532 Eproms&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An annoying fact is that from around System 7, most of the WMS sound ROM files are all &amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;named something like &#039;&#039;&#039;SND_IC12.716 &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;, which makes them harder to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Running a Type 2 Sound Board with a 6802 CPU===&lt;br /&gt;
You might not have an 6808 CPU, or you might upgrade to a 6802 because then there is one less IC (the 6810 RAM) to go wrong.  You can leave the 6810 (as it&#039;s not socketed) if the card functions with it in place.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can get the Type 2 board to run on a 6802 CPU, without a working 6810 RAM in IC11.  To do this you cut a track called W14. It isn&#039;t a 0 ohm resistor (or a real jumper), it&#039;s a track located under R30, the 3rd resistor in from Left on the Bottom Left of the board. W14 grounds pin 36 of the processor for a 6808 CPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to use a 6802, you cut the track W14. Pin 36 will go high through the 4.7K &amp;quot;pull up&amp;quot; resistor at R30. You could then remove the 6810 RAM as the 6802 has internal RAM. My advice is again to just &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;leave it in place&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; if the card functions with it there. I had to rework tracks damaged by removing a 6810 on one sound board being repaired.  Avoid making extra work for yourself, and &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;spend more time playing pinball&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;.  That way it can be reverted back to 6808 operation in future. Good instructions are currently at [http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/techwilliamshardwareidsound.html www.robotron-2084.co.uk].  A useful site for arcade video and pinball and Dave has a nice Defender pinball to look at while you&#039;re there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Modifying the System 6/7 Speech Board to Use 2732 EPROMs===&lt;br /&gt;
The original System 6/7 speech board is setup to only use 2532 EPROMs.  With the following simple modifications, a speech board can use 2732 EPROMs instead, if the need arises.  Please be aware that although these modifications are reversible, it is not nearly as easy to change a modified board using 2732 EPROMs back to a board which uses 2532 EPROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#On the component side of the board, there is a trace which runs beneath the ribbon cable connection and between pins 11 and 12 of U5 (the lowest two pins on the left).  Cut this trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the board over to the solder side.  The orientation of the board in the pic below is with the ribbon cable connection on the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate pin 18 of U5.  There is a trace between pin 18 of U5 and a via down and to the right of it.  To verify the correct via, check continuity between pin 13 of the ribbon cable (fourth pin up on far right of the ribbon connections) and the via.  Cut the trace between this via and pin 18 of U5&lt;br /&gt;
#There is another via slightly down and to the right of the previously discussed via.  This second via will have continuity between it and pin 12 on the ribbon cable (third pin up on far left of the ribbon connections).  The via will also have continuity between pin 21 of U5.  Using wire wrap or a thin gauge wire, tie these two vias together.&lt;br /&gt;
#Locate pin 18 of U5 and pin 12 of U4 (down and to the left of U5 pin 18). Again using wire wrap or a thin gauge wire, tie pin 18 of U5 to pin 12 of U4.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 6/7 Speech Board 2732 EPROM Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys67 Speech 2732 Mod Front.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Trace cut on component side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys67 Speech 2732 Mod Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Trace cut and two jumpers added on solder side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Replacing the on-board volume control with a remote volume pot (System 4)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0760.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 4 original volume pot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0761.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Connector 10J4, with pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 bridged with solder.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the volume pot on your system 4 or later sound board fails or otherwise needs replacement, it&#039;s often difficult (or impossible) to find a direct matching part.  In such cases adding a remote volume pot may be the only solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing to do is flip the board over and make sure that somebody hasn&#039;t bridged pins 1 and 2 of connector 10J4, as shown here.  If it has been bridged, remove the solder bridge and solder the pins independently to the board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0762.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Taking a reading across volume pot legs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0763.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Taking a reading across volume pot legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Take a resistance reading across the existing volume potentiometer&#039;s legs.  If you get a reading above 4K ohms, the potentiometer is not mostly shorted and will not require its leg to be cut as detailed below.  (i.e. you may skip that step below.)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This potentiometer is not mostly shorted and could be left un-cut.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0764.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Cutting the volume pot&#039;s left leg.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0765.jpg|300px|thumb|right|After cutting volume pot&#039;s left leg.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the previous resistance reading reads less than 4K ohms, then one leg of the potentiometer &#039;&#039;&#039;must&#039;&#039;&#039; be cut.  (This one was cut for the sake of demonstration.)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the cut, the potentiometer should look similar to this.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0766.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Jumper added across volume pot legs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0767.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Replacement potentiometer.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;In all cases, a jumper must be added to the back side of the board to bypass what is left of the old potentiometer.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A new 5k-ohm, audio (logarithmic) taper potentiometer must be sourced.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0768.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Wiring of new potentiometer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DSC0769.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Wiring of 10P4.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Here a radio shack 271-1720 potentiometer was used.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three wires must be run between the potentiometer and 10P4, the plug that connects to 10J4.  The wires must then be connected to 10P4, as shown.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Plug the new 10P4 into 10J4, and the on-board volume pot will be bypassed with the new external pot.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===If All Else Fails===&lt;br /&gt;
You can source a replacement sound/speech board.  It may be more cost effective than sending out your sound boards to be fixed, especially as you may be able to sell the original boards to get back some of the initial outlay.  These are good quality products, the price isn&#039;t bad and they should last for many years to come.  James Kohout&#039;s [http://www.pinballpcb.com pinballpcb.com]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Solenoid Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Controlled Solenoids===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSPharoahExtraGround.jpg|300px|thumb|left|In addition to the ground braid being screwed to this post, a white wire with red stripe is also connected.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some Williams games provide ground for coils via an extra wire (white/red) that must be connected to the backbox ground stud as shown in the picture at left. If this wire is not connected, some coils will not work. An example is Pharaoh, which uses this path to ground for both &amp;quot;Magna Save&amp;quot; magnets and the hidden tomb coils.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: in the example picture, a nut has been used to replace the typical &amp;quot;wing nut&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Special Note Regarding Coin Lockout Coil and Free Play====&lt;br /&gt;
When some games (perhaps all games but at least Flash using Green ROMs) are set on &amp;quot;free play&amp;quot;, by setting adjustment 18 to zero, the coin lockout coil will not be turned on. This makes sense since when free play is enabled, coins should drop straight through the coin mech and into the coin return.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem3-7SpecialSolenoidDrives.jpg ‎||left||thumb||300px||A closeup of the special solenoid circuitry showing transistors Q2 through Q12. Note that these transistors are not numbered row and column sequentially. Argh!]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7SpecialSolenoidDiagram.jpg ‎||right||thumb||300px||Diagram of Williams System 3-7 Driver Board Special Solenoid Section]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Special Solenoid drives switch power to ground for pop bumpers and sling shots. This &amp;quot;special&amp;quot; circuitry was implemented with the thought that the switch matrix could not be polled rapidly enough for these devices to be highly responsive. The drive transistors can be switched on either by a switch closure on the device, or under software control by the CPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Special Solenoid drive transistors, Q2 through Q12, are located just above the flipper power ground enable relay Z1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flaw in this circuitry is that a &amp;quot;one shot&amp;quot; was not implemented (ala Gottlieb System 80 Pop Bumper Driver Boards).  One shot circuitry only allows the associated solenoid to engage once per switch closure.  In the case of the Williams special solenoids, as long as the switch is tied to ground, the solenoid will be engaged.  As long as a device switch (pop bumper or sling) is closed, then coil power will be switched to ground continuously, eventually overheating and killing the associated TIP-122 (or TIP-102) transistor and / or the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is also a lack of &amp;quot;intelligence&amp;quot; in the software as was implemented eventually in WPC games. WPC games disable a device if the device&#039;s associated switch is sensed closed 10 times in succession without sensing any other switch closure. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Arc Suppression Resistor/Capacitor for Special Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System4SpoonSwitch.jpg  ‎||left||thumb||300px||A resistor/capacitor connected across a pop bumper spoon switch.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RCNetworkSystem4.jpg ‎||right||thumb||300px||The schematic for the circuit as implemented for slingshot switches.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a 22uf capacitor and a 100ohm resistor, themselves connected in series, wired across special solenoid switches to suppress arcing across the switches. This implementation also provides some measure of &amp;quot;electrical debouncing&amp;quot; of the switch. In the image at left, the black wire is coil power from the power supply. The orange wire is the path back to ground via a driver board special solenoid drive transistor. The green and white wires are switch matrix wires for the &amp;quot;scoring switch&amp;quot;. A 1N4004 switch isolation diode is used just like any other switch matrix switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
From: https://testguy.net/content/362-Arc-suppression-circuits ...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When a switch is opened, an arc can develop across the contacts, which over time, can erode the contacts. To prevent this, an RC network is placed across the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#When the contacts in an arc suppression circuit open, the applied voltage is placed across the capacitor and not the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
#The capacitor charges at a rate faster than the contacts open which prevents an arc from forming across the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
#When the contacts close, the inrush current from the charged capacitor and source can be substantially higher than the contacts can safely conduct, causing the contacts to deteriorate. This is why it is important to have a resistor in series with the capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The resistor acts as a current limiter which reduces the inrush current by a significant amount. The arc produced at the contact closure is greatly reduced, thus extending the service life of the contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Lamp Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===General Illumination Lamps===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem7PowerSupplyBurn.jpg||left||thumb||300px||An extreme example of high current damage to the general illumination traces of a System 7 power supply.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest weaknesses of the System 7 board set (starting with the later run of Black Knight) is the general illumination PCB connection. The configuration of that connection evolved from a two pin Molex connector into four (two for AC in, two for AC return) 18 gauge wires soldered directly to the board and connected to the transformer secondary with a 4-pin Molex connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Controlled Lamps (Lamp Matrix)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One source of problems with the lamp matrix can be the 27 ohm 3 watt resistors used for the lamp columns.  These resistors put out a &#039;&#039;&#039;ton&#039;&#039;&#039; of heat!  In some extreme instances, they can get so hot that they will literally melt the solder which holds them to the driver board, and fail off the board.  It is best to replace these resistors with 27 ohm 5 watt resistors.  The 5 watt variants can dissipate the heat a little better.  When replacing these resistors, make certain to allow enough space under them to allow for air cooling.  Even though it is best to use higher wattage resistors, they still put out a fair amount of heat. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=350px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 3-7 Driver Board Lamp Matrix Resistors&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wmsdriver_heatdamagedresistors.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Old resistors in questionable condition due to overheating.  Note these are 3 watt resistors as shipped by WMS.  Later boards used 5 watt versions.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Using a pencil to allow proper spacing of the resistors from the driver board.  One by one, place the legs of the resistors through the circuit board, and bend the legs over.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Flip the board over, and allow the resistors to &amp;quot;hang&amp;quot; off the board.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Spacer WMS Lamp Resistors After.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;New resistors soldered on the board with ample air flow beneath them.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ResistorRaising.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Another method of raising the resistors. Be sure to remove the cardboard when complete.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMSSystem3-7LampMatrixResistorsRaised.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Side view of resistors raised with ample air flow beneath them.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Testing the Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a generic [[media:13-lampwiring.pdf|Lamp Matrix Diagram]] which you can refer to for testing the lamp matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Reducing heat by replacing the TIP-42 lamp drive transistors and eliminating the 27 ohm current limiting resistors====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. The TIP42 transistors are bipolar PNP transistors, and require a lot of drive current on the base. The current through the 27 ohm resistors does not even go to lamps, just to the base. The issue starts when the 40 pin interface connector becomes faulty. If the lamp scan update is not received by the driver board, it will sit on one selected column of lamps.. and promptly burn one 27 ohm resistor off the board, possibly burning a hole in the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first method below is simpler to implement, but the second method is included, as it has been implemented for many years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the first upgrade method, replace the 8 TIP42 transistors with the darlington version, which require much less current. Get 8 TIP125 transistors, and replace the 8 original transistors, being careful to keep them oriented the same way. Masking tape can keep all 8 lined up while soldering. The second step is to remove all 8 of the 27 ohm resistors, and replace them with 10K 1/4W resistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The second method uses modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By using a &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; circuit with two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half, the MOSFET will be driven with 9 VDC Vgs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys3-7_Lamp_FETs_Front.jpg|300px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys3-7 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q63, Q65, Q67, Q69, Q71, Q73, Q75, Q77&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R149-R156&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistors R141-R148&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System3-7FETs.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Another implementation of 1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys3-7_1K_Resistor_Lamp_FETs_Back.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Closeup of 1 kohm resistors added to solder side of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pay close attention when adding the 1 Kohm resistors to the solder side of the driver board on heavily burnt / delaminated boards.  The resistor leg and / or the end of resistor leg comes within close proximity of the same column or adjacent column traces.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7DriverFETModAlternate.jpg ‎|300px|left|thumb|Another implementation of 1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board. This implementation requires less resistor leg bending and hence, a much easier install.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS3-7FETFrontSideOnlyMod.jpg ‎|300px|right|thumb|A &amp;quot;component side only&amp;quot; implementation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Victor, Pinsider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Yet more ways to efficiently add the voltage dividing resistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Flash Lamp Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 3-7 flash lamps (and System 9/11 also) are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Williams System 3-7 (and 11) Warming Board Implementation&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:FPWarming.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Firepower warming board. The 330ohm resistor has clearly failed. This board is connected to the game wiring differently than Gorgar and is not factory, yet it works. The red wires are power. It&#039;s difficult to see in this pic but a yellow wire is also connected to the red wires. That yellow wire connects to two flashlamps in series. The other yellow wire returns from those flashlamps and is connected to the 1ohm and 330ohm resistors. Power finds ground through the 330ohm resistor and the black wire. This forms the &amp;quot;warming circuit&amp;quot;. Power also finds ground through the 1ohm resistor, the brown/violet wire and the driver board drive transistor.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:FirePowerWarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Firepower warming board. The 330ohm resistor has been replaced. This board is also connected to the game wiring differently than Gorgar and is not factory, yet it works. The two yellow wires connect to two flashlamps in series. Red is flashlamp power. Black is ground. The remaining wire is a path to ground via the drive transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GorgarWarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Gorgar warming board. The two yellow wires connect to two flashlamps in series. Red is flashlamp power. Black is ground. The remaining brown/violet wire is a path to ground via the drive transistor. This warming board wiring matches the schematics and corresponds to factory wiring.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WarmingResistorSchematic.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Warming Resistor circuit shown in Stellar Wars schematics. Note the two #89 lamps wired in series. They are dimly lit with power from the red wire, through the 1 ohm resistor, through the lamps, through the 330 ohm resistor, and then to ground. They will fully light when the drive transistor that services the GRY-BLK wire is switched on, providing a low resistance path to ground and effectively removing the 330 ohm resistor from the circuit.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The diagram at left shows the physical connections to be made by the warming board. The schematic snippet at right is from Stellar Wars (System 4) and accurately depicts connections. The schematic contained in Gorgar is not correct for this circuit. Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Switch Problems==&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WARNINGS:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Never use a file, sandpaper, or anything more abrasive than an old business card to clean gold flashed switches. Doing so will remove the gold flashing and permanently ruin the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
*Never adjust switches with the game powered on. It is far too easy to short the switch, or your adjustment tool, to adjacent power (lamps or solenoids) and damage the switch matrix circuitry on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only switches that can be filed are tungsten switches which are both materially and physically quite different from gold flashed switches. In a System 3-7 game, the only tungsten switches are the cabinet flipper buttons and the flipper mechanism end-of-stroke switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tungsten cabinet flipper switches and end-of-stroke switches &amp;quot;arc&amp;quot; and will become blackened (or whitened) and pitted over time. Once this happens, the resistance between the switch pair increases, which reduces electric current, which reduces coil power, which reduces flipper strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switches vary from game to game, most are standard for WMS System 3-7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A few of the common switches are listed here:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; |System 3-7 Switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Common use&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|SW-1A-118 || Spinner Blade switch&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-124 || Rollover Lanes (inlanes/outlanes as well)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-130-1 || Switch Rightmost on Ball Runway (Ball Locks, with round white nylon piece on leaf end)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-136   || 2nd Ball Runway Switch (typical, depending on game)  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-137   || 3rd Ball Runway Switch (typical, depending on game)  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-138   || Shooter Lane Switch&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| SW-1A-139   || Lane Change Switch (can use SW-1A-150, usually stacked to right flipper or right EOS)&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These were used throughout the Williams games: &lt;br /&gt;
Examples are for the above include System 3, System 4 (Flash), System 6(a) (Firepower and Alien Poker), System 7 (Black Knight).  Some appear on F-14 Tomcat (’87) and further, even after most Ball Ramp switches had changed over to micro switches.  Black knight also used micro switch kits, which Williams provided as a field replacement kit for operators.  Drop Targets also had factory micro-switch adapters fitted later to make them more reliable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Switch Assembly Note&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;:  The Williams factory (or more accurately their suppliers) assembled many switches so one of the blades was facing the wrong way.  It should have two gold contacts facing each other, where in fact one blade faces so that the rough-sided rivet is making contact.  If you have an intermittent switch, it can be worth the time to de-solder it and remove from the game and then carefully pry the switch stack apart and reassemble the switch so the gold contacts face toward each other.  Keep the exact order of spacers and just reverse the one blade.  While there, carefully clean the switch contacts with naptha and a clean cloth.  Again, please don&#039;t use emery (or files) on these switch points!  Once the gold has worn, they form &amp;quot;dead spots&amp;quot; and won&#039;t work reliably.  Another symptom of the misassembled switch stacks is multiple switch closures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How the Switch Matrix Works===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First of all, a switch is usually an electro-mechanical device with moving parts.  This includes leaf blade switches, tilt switches (where the ring is fixed and the plumb bob is the moving part of the switch) and micro-switches.  When a mechanical switch closes the contacts tend to oscillate before coming to rest.  It literally &#039;bounces&#039; several times before remaining closed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU could see the rapid open/close events as multiple switch closures, so there is usually some &#039;debounce logic&#039; built into switch matrix reading programs.  The CPU sees a switch closure and then &#039;checks back&#039; to see if it remained closed as few milliseconds later.  If it is closed, the CPU processes the event once, scoring the correct value or in some cases triggering a solenoid to fire. In the case of Williams 3-7 games, the switch debouncing for normal switches is done at the software level; unlike other contemporary manufacturers&#039; method, Williams&#039; software is more sophisticated in that the definition of switches include the ability to treat a switch as fast-response (example: spinner switch), normal response (lane rollovers - longer &#039;ignore time&#039; to prevent duplicate reads on a slow traveling ball), and the longest time (trough switches - where the ball would travel over the first 2 switches on a multiball machine, you would not want those to react unless a ball were truly in the trough).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As an aside, an optical switch (or opto) has no moving parts and so doesn&#039;t suffer from mechanical switch &#039;bounce&#039;.  (An optical switch can suffer from electronic switch bounce - many rapid activations per second - which is why they usually utilize circuitry known as a Schmitt Trigger to lower the probability of debounce errors). It also shouldn&#039;t need adjustment or in theory wear out as quickly as say a micro-switch. However, an opto needs additional circuits and is not as simple to work on or replace as other switch types.  Although you can not see an infrared transmitter with you naked eye, you can look at it with a digital camera. Optos were never used in System 3-7 games, although they were engineered and prototyped just at the end of System 7. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring up every switch separately with multiple wires running to the backbox would be expensive in the amount of wiring and in the number of inputs required to the game&#039;s logic.  Rather than do that, the engineers designed a switch matrix with 8 column wires and 8 row wires, creating a &#039;matrix&#039; of 8x8 giving a total of 64 possible switches.  Not all of these switch positions are used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first column of the switch matrix (COL 1) is dedicated to the same switches on the System 3-7 games.  You can check in a manual, but these will be the cabinet tilts, the coin switches which sense coin drops, the credit button (to start a game) and the high score reset which is also in the cabinet (on the coin door).  In order from row 1 through row 8, they are the plumb bob tilt, ball roll tilt, credit button, right coin chute, center coin chute, left coin chute, slam tilt, and high score reset button.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the most part other switches will be on the playfield (exceptions could be a lane change or magnasave button/switch). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So how is the switch matrix read by the MPU?  It uses the most useful Peripheral I/O device in this pinball era, the Motorola 6821 PIA (earlier this was the MC6820 PIA).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6821 is made up of two 8 bit ports, one port is known as &#039;Port A&#039; and the other &#039;Port B&#039;. Any of the 16 pins can be configured as inputs or outputs.  That&#039;s exactly what&#039;s needed to drive our Switch Matrix!  An 8-way output port B to &#039;send&#039; (or strobe) down the Columns to the switches, and an 8-way input port A to &#039;read&#039; the Rows from the switches.  The Columns are known commonly as &#039;Drives&#039; or &#039;Strobes&#039; and the Rows are known as &#039;Returns&#039; for this reason.  In a similar way (an 8x8 matrix) another PIA is used for the Lamp Matrix.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch matrix PIA is at IC11 on the Driver Board (also called PIA II).  This PIA doesn&#039;t drive the switch matrix directly from it&#039;s TTL output pins. There are +5v powered &#039;pull-up&#039; resistors and 4 IC&#039;s which act as drivers/buffers helping to protect the PIA from damage if the switch matrix is shorted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
;Two 7406 (Hex Inverter / Buffer with open collector HV outputs) is used to &#039;drive&#039; the Columns.  &lt;br /&gt;
:A 7406 or 74LS06 will work and are common parts.&lt;br /&gt;
;Two 4049 (or 14049 &amp;quot;CMOS Hex Inverter / Buffer) is used to &#039;read&#039; the Rows. &lt;br /&gt;
:The MC14049 or CD4049UBCN are common examples, although any 14049 or 4049 14-leg DIP will work.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;(Hex in this context refers to six inverters contained in the one IC package.  It&#039;s nothing to do with the computer (or math) Hex meaning of &#039;base 16&#039;.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU writes to the output port of the PIA driving column 1, then the return input port is saved, holding the status of all 8 rows in one byte. The program then &#039;looks&#039; at each of the rows 1-8 in quick succession.  It checks to see if the signal is getting through on the row that&#039;s currently being read.  Think of it as an 8 bit answer for that column showing which switches in that column are closed.  Say 00010001 returned would mean switches at C1,R4 and C1,R8 are closed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So for every &#039;drive&#039; down a column, the machine does 8 &#039;reads&#039; of the rows. Then the CPU moves on and drives column 2, looking again at each of the rows 1-8.  It continues through all of the remaining columns in this way.  This is done very rapidly by the CPU, strobing the whole matrix looping over and over many times a second.  Because it&#039;s so fast, even multiple switch closures are rarely missed, in fact as mentioned above it has to debounce the results to obtain an accurate result.  Williams&#039; operating system software on machines from at least system 6 up through system 11 have differing debounce values depending on the type of switch, allowing greater sensitivity on certain types of switches, and desensitizing others (such as lock or trough switches).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The diodes on every switch help to steer the drives only to the row that&#039;s being read and not back into other parts of the matrix.  That&#039;s why good diodes on switches are so important, as they must only allow current to flow in one direction: &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;from&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; column &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;to&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; row.  Essentially that&#039;s how the switch matrix reads switch closures. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This [https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_switch_matrix.html article] by Aeneas describing a later game&#039;s switch matrix may be useful as a different explanation with a diagram. Transistors can be used on the drives (as with modern games like DE or Stern ), different buffer chips can be used, but the basic switch matrix design hasn&#039;t changed over the years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally a warning about protecting the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;nothing&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; will protect the switch matrix IC&#039;s and PIA if (for example) the +50v solenoid voltage is shorted into the matrix. This happens if the &#039;lane change&#039; switch is attached in a stack on the flipper mech and shorted to the EOS switch.  In later designs the &#039;lane change&#039; was moved to be stacked with the flipper buttons (nearly as bad) or to a separate button which was a better design.  Be very careful if working under the playfield &#039;&#039;&#039;not to short the solenoid or lamp power into a switch&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It can be a lot of work to repair the damage done to the driver board, so be careful with you screwdriver and loose solenoid power wiring.  Most people who have been repairing games long enough learned the hard way, and won&#039;t work under the playfield with the power on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Switches===&lt;br /&gt;
There are a few switches that are dedicated, and not part of the switch matrix.  The coin door Advance and Auto/Up Manual/Down switches, which let you start diagnostic tests when the switch matrix is faulty.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, there are a maximum of 6 special solenoid switches, which directly connect to the solenoid logic on the driver board. When Williams first designed these games, they were worried that the CPU couldn&#039;t always &#039;keep up&#039; with the ball hits to the pop bumpers or slingshots.  So during game play the switches on the playfield fire the special solenoids directly from the playfield.  These usually include the spoon switches on the pop bumpers and slingshot stand-up switches.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All pop bumpers and slingshots have a secondary switch which is part of the switch matrix.  It closes when the coil is fired and tells the CPU to increment scoring and in some cases to trigger sounds for these devices.  The scoring switch is mechanically closed, by the &#039;elbow&#039; of the slingshot arm or by the bakelite yoke connected to the pop bumper ring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Confusingly, the CPU can also fire the 6 special switches from PIA lines for the diagnostic tests, but these PIA signals are never used during game play.  If all these solenoids work during diagnostic tests, but not in game play it points to the switch inputs or the 7408s at IC6/7.  It won&#039;t be the 7402s at IC8/9.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I have seen a game that worked in play perfectly, but the diagnostics could not fire two of the pop bumper solenoids during tests.  This was a Switch Matrix PIA with faulty output at pins 19 (CB2) and 39 (CA2), other than that the PIA was working correctly and so it could still be used to drive the Switch Matrix.  If a switch row or column went out, the PIA would then have to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;&#039;Here is a list of the PIAs and where the pins are that fire the &#039;special solenoids&#039; during diagnostics:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot; |Special Solenoid Diag. PIAs&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!ST# &lt;br /&gt;
!PIA&lt;br /&gt;
!CHIP&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin #&lt;br /&gt;
!Location / Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1   ||III ||IC10  Lamps     ||19    ||Middle PIA   on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2   ||III ||IC10  Lamps     ||39    ||Middle PIA   on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3   ||II  ||IC11  SW Matrix ||19    ||Left PIA  on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4   ||II  ||IC11  SW Matrix ||39    ||Left PIA  on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5   ||IV  ||IC 5  Solenoids ||39    ||Right PIA on Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6   ||I   ||IC18  Displays  ||19    ||Via 1J1-26 on CPU Board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing the Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
To test the switch matrix in the game, first remove both Switch Matrix connectors on the top right of the driver board. J2 is Column (green wires) and J3 is Row (white wires).  Then run a switch test from diagnostics, you should get no switches being sensed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use an alligator test lead as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
* Connect one end of the test lead&#039;s alligator clip to the column pin, starting at column 1.  That&#039;s the bottom pin of J2. &lt;br /&gt;
* Then use the other end of the test lead to touch the appropriate row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
* Start at the bottom pin of J3, which is row 1.  You should see switch #1 indicated (R1C1).&lt;br /&gt;
* Move the probe to the next pin up on J3, which is row #2.  You should see switch #2 indicated (R2C1).&lt;br /&gt;
* When you got to the top of the row pins, move the clip end to COL #2 (up one pin) and start again with row #1.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Activate each switch in turn by connecting the appropriate 2 male pins on the CPU board with your test lead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using your switch matrix chart from the manual as a guide, you may find the faults as your game &amp;quot;sees&amp;quot; on the same switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you get an error in sequence, more than one switch registers at a time or you are missing a row or column - then you &#039;&#039;&#039;know the problem must be on the MPU board&#039;&#039;&#039;.  You can either try to fix it or send the board out for repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the above test works correctly, meaning all switches register correctly then your problem must be the wiring or on the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing the Switch Matrix PIA===&lt;br /&gt;
No section on the switch matrix is complete without mentioning the switch PIA.  That IC and 4 buffer IC&#039;s are the only logic in the switch matrix.  The complete instructions for testing all the PIAs are beyond the scope of this section. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only sure-fire way to test the PIA is with the &#039;Leon Borre test ROM&#039; in the MPU board.  You do this by taking the MPU and Driver boards out of the game and putting them on the bench.  This will also let you trace back through the circuit to find a fault more easily, and it&#039;s not as hard as you may think.  It will also exercise the CPU memory and test all the PIAs on the Driver Board, not just the switch matrix PIA.  Here are his excellent instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Leon_Borre_Repairing_Williams_System_3-6_CPU_Boards | Leon&#039;s Repair Pages for WMS System 3-6 games]] including a free test ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Leon_Borre_WMS_System_7_Repair | Leon&#039;s Repair Pages for WMS System 7 games]] including a free test ROM.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These Belgium guys are knowledgeable about pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Should any of the chips in the switch matrix prove to be faulty, be particularly cautious in replacing them. They have a greater than usual tendency for lifted traces and pads when desoldering. Heat rising from the lamp matrix resistors has a tendency to not only cause these chips to fail, but also to loosen the bond between the circuit board and the solder pads and traces on this area of the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix Components===&lt;br /&gt;
Final thoughts about components which make up the switch matrix. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The passive components:&lt;br /&gt;
On the driver board there is an RC network, made up of 16 x 4.7K pull-up resistors that you can measure with a DMM. Tolerance is not critical, but should measure between 4.5K to 5K which is about a +/- 5% range.&lt;br /&gt;
There are also 16 x capacitors (470pF at 50v, ceramic) these should not measure as a short, if in doubt just replace them.&lt;br /&gt;
And 8 x 1K ohm resistors at the switch inputs (rows) at R196-R203 these can not be open or shorted and must be around 1K each.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can see the above chips inverting signals with the game running and a logic probe.  Check if signals look weak or suspect. If you see a signal on the input side and then nothing inverted on the output side, then that&#039;s your problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |Beyond that IC15-18, which are the Switch Matrix inverting buffer / drivers:&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Inverting Pairs. Leg a to b listed as a,b&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch Row/Col Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Part Number /Eqivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC15 ||3,2 7,6 14,15 9,10 in that order ||Rows 1-4 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC16 ||3,2 7,6 14,15 9,10 in that order ||Rows 5-8 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC17 ||2,1 6,5 12,13 8,9  in that order ||Columns 1-4 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|IC18 ||2,1 6,5 12,13 8,9  in that order ||Columns 5-8 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;5&amp;quot; |J2 (Column) and J3 (Row) connector pins: &lt;br /&gt;
:&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Connector&lt;br /&gt;
!Male connector Pins&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch Row/Col Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Location&lt;br /&gt;
!IC Part Number /Eqivalent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J2 ||pins 1-3 and pin 5 ||Columns 5-8 ||IC18 ||7406(S) / 74LS06&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J2 ||pins 9-6 ||Columns 1-4 ||IC17 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J3 ||pin 1 and pins 3-5 ||Rows 5-8 ||IC16 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2J3 ||pins 9-6 ||Rows 1-4 ||IC15 ||(MC)14049U / 4049U&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Except for the 6821 PIA which is getting harder to find, all the switch matrix components are readily available.&lt;br /&gt;
However there are acceptable substitutes on the market.  Any of the following part numbers are drop-in replacements for the 6821.&lt;br /&gt;
68A21, 68B21, 6521, W65C21N.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Wire Jumpers on System 7 Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ZeroOhmJumpersS3-7.jpg ‎|300px|left|thumb|A Williams System 3-7 Driver Board, retrofitted with wire jumpers at R04-R211]]&lt;br /&gt;
Williams removed some resistors from the switch matrix inputs and used wire jumpers instead. This happened from the start of System 7.  The first thing to do with a driver board (which may not be from that game) is to measure these resistors and make sure you have the the driver board set up for the correct game.  &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;While a board with wire jumpers can be used in System 4-6 games, using a board with resistors in a System 7 game will cause problems.&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;  Replacing the 330 ohm resistors with wire jumpers helps with switch sensitivity and with sensing more than one switch closure at the same time.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On driver boards from Black Knight and later System 7 games, there should be 8 wire jumpers (or zero ohm resistors) used on the switch matrix at positions W9-W16. These are located on the upper right hand corner of the Driver Board just to the left of J2, the top right connector which is the switch matrix column drive. To the left are two columns of 7 resistors each, the second column should be the wire jumpers, along with the top position of the next column to the left (column with 2 resistors only).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 4-6 Driver boards, (games like Alien Poker, Firepower and earlier SS games) were released with 330 ohm resistors (orange, orange, brown) in these 8 locations. Starting with Black Knight and later (System 7 games) they are called R204-R211, and are zero ohm resistors (usually a tan body with one black stripe). You can replace or jumper over them with wire leaving the resistors in place. In all other aspects the driver boards are identical, so it&#039;s easy to convert between the two. This is why they are usually known as &#039;&#039;System 3-7 driver boards&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before you start to replace parts on the driver board, be sure your playfield switches are working and the diodes are good. You need to unsolder one end of the diode from the switch to be able to test it correctly with a DMM on the diode setting.  While you are there, clean the switch with a business card soaked in naptha or contact cleaner sprayed on the business card (with the game off, contact cleaner is flammable!) See if any blackness comes off on the card.  You can also gently wipe the contacts until shiny with a Q-tip or the corner of a clean rag dipped in isopropyl alcohol.  A pencil eraser also works well to clean switch contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Game Specific Problems and Fixes=&lt;br /&gt;
==Black Knight==&lt;br /&gt;
===Magna Save Performance===&lt;br /&gt;
There are 2 under playfield relays used to shunt high voltage to the magna saves. These are high voltage contacts and should be filed for maximum conductivity and power for the magnets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Magna Save Magnets Not Working===&lt;br /&gt;
If the magnets are not working in test or game, make certain that the white-red wire is tied to the ground screw in the backbox.  This white-red wire is fed from the relay coils, which enables each appropriate magnets.&lt;br /&gt;
===Fast moving ball flies through upper lock===&lt;br /&gt;
Mount a shooter lane bracket underneath the plastic of the upper ball lock trough.  With creative bending, all ball motion will stop on entering the trough.  The ball will drop down ensuring credit is awarded for the lock.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Ball Lock Scoring Bug===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a software bug in version L-3 and L-4 where instead of getting 5000 points with other balls in the lock you get 10,000, scored in increments of 5000.  There is no current fix for this; it may have been intentional for the additional score (usually picked up by another player) but probably an oversight by the original programmer.  There is a footnote in the operator&#039;s manual referencing this.  It is unknown what the original intention was.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Right Ramp Gate Adjustment===&lt;br /&gt;
It is erroneous to have the mystery rollunder gate score in one direction only; the switch should activate both going UP to the upper playfield as well as DOWN to the lower playfield.  It can be a strategy in multiball to let it roll down the switch, multiplying the mystery value.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Firepower==&lt;br /&gt;
===Firepower Won&#039;t Start a Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Firepower and other multi-ball games are infamous for being stubborn if there aren&#039;t three balls in the trough, or if one of the trough switches isn&#039;t closed.  Additionally, multiball games usually have a shooter lane switch.  If MORE than 3 switches are closed, the game will also not start.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My Firepower, in particular, is frequently upset if the right-most switch isn&#039;t closed, and that switch has an unusual actuator on it that doesn&#039;t work as well as a common rollover actuator. That switch is a little mangled, so it&#039;s the one that is most problematic. [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 18:12, 21 May 2014 (CDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Time Warp==&lt;br /&gt;
===Time Warp loses background sound occasionally===&lt;br /&gt;
There is a software bug in Time Warp where the background sound (if enabled) will go mute at ball launch.  This happens whenever the ball kicker launches twice, or when a ball drains without scoring any points.  There is a fix for this identified as Time Warp L-3 however it is not officially sanctioned by Williams and so is not readily available.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements=&lt;br /&gt;
==Boards==&lt;br /&gt;
* Displays&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://xpinpinball.com/product-category/xpin-displays/ XPin]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=dis326 Rottendog 6-Digit]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=dis079 Rottendog 7-Digit]&lt;br /&gt;
* MPU&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=mpu327 Rottendog] (no longer supports System 7 games)&lt;br /&gt;
* Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://www.rottendog.us/?product=wdp3211a Rottendog]&lt;br /&gt;
** [http://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms8345/ XPin]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NOTE: [http://pinballpcb.com/ Kohout Enterprises] has begun manufacturing circuit boards again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Repair Logs=&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Unreliable +5V==&lt;br /&gt;
A Firepower won&#039;t boot consistently.  It was reliable before it was moved in a box truck.  +5V supply measures low.  For some reason, I decided the problem had to be the diodes in the power supply and replaced them, which didn&#039;t help.  I replaced the +5V cap in the power supply, C16, and all was well.  (Thirty year old filter caps are all absolutely suspect.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once I had the cap loose, I discovered I could shake it and hear it rattling inside.  Presumably, the jelly roll of electrolytic was dried out.  Shaking it might have the internal components in the right place, but probably not.  A few miles in the back of the truck was enough to wreck it, more permanently before.  The game has been very well-behaved since replacing the cap with a new one. [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 18:12, 21 May 2014 (CDT)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Unreliable +5V, part 2==&lt;br /&gt;
All classic pinball boards rely on 5V logic. Most data sheets indicate 5V, +/- 0.25V. Always check the 5V on the power supply, AND on the MPU board. Note that there may be 5.2V on the power supply, but 4.8V on the MPU. This is too low.. small pulses can pull the 4.8 below 4.75 fairly easily and cause resets. If there is less than 5V on the MPU board, but the voltage is right on the supply, try checking voltage drops at each individual connector pin. One will usually find that pins will have built up tarnish, or heat has turned them grey or brown.. this is the tip off that the connector needs to be replaced. I know, groan.. it can be a pain, but replace the header in the circuit board. Make sure to remove or clip the key pin. Then replace the connector on the wires (female) with crimp and poke type. Use a ratchet crimper, and tug on them after each crimp to prove that they are good. Replace the wires one by one.. clip, crimp, poke.. copy each wire position from the original one one at a time, and keep in mind that the connectors have a ramp and go on one way. Replace and power up, and then go back to the meter, and verify that the voltage on the MPU board has risen..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CPU will not start==&lt;br /&gt;
This happens to involve a Type 2 sound board, but it could apply to an MPU board or a Type 1 sound board.  The reset pin voltage (CPU Pin 40) was low and would slowly climb after power on, but not enough to allow the CPU to start.  All components in the reset section were good, and replacement parts did not make any difference.  The problem was the sound board&#039;s PIA.  Its reset line was pulling down the voltage so much that the CPU would not start.  After replacing the PIA, the sound board booted and worked fine.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80&amp;diff=22155</id>
		<title>Gottlieb System 80</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80&amp;diff=22155"/>
		<updated>2022-06-03T19:21:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Flippers are Weak, Sluggish, or Erratic */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Gottlieb_Repair_Guides | Gottlieb® solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 1st gen boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Set - 1st Generation ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
			&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb&#039;s® second generation of solid state pinballs is System 80.  Capabilities were increased in terms of controllable lamps, solenoids, gameplay, and sound.  No longer tied to an EM-esque platform, Gottlieb® started to introduce games with more unconventional asymmetric playfields.  System 80 marked a foray into double and triple level playfields, speech, and multiball. Unfortunately, it also represented a lateral step in reliability, with battery corrosion, connectors, and bad grounding plaguing the design.  Nearly all the same issues as were present with the System 1 platform.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
			&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80cabinet.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Set - 2nd Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the System 1 games, the System 80 / 80A / 80B design relied solely on connectors and daisy-chained wiring to transport the ground lines from board to board. The exception is that the large ground plane used with System 1 games was no longer used behind the boards with the System 80 games. Gottlieb® still opted to use plastic standoffs to elevate and secure the boards to the backbox or the back side of the lamp box insert. Thus, if a single ground connector failed in the chain, the logic ground could fail for one or several of the circuit boards. This could potentially lead to locked on coils, relays, and / or controlled lamps. In turn, transistors and chips would fail.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Later gtb sys80a boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Board Set]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 platform was used for a total of nine years from 1980-1989.  During this period, there were three main versions of the boardset.  These three versions are referred to as: System 80, System 80A, and System 80B.  System 80 was used from 1980-1982, System 80A was used from 1982-1985, and System 80B was used from 1985-1989.  The easiest way to differentiate between the three versions is by looking at the style of displays which were used.  System 80 used 6-digit displays for scoring, and in some instances, for bonus values or timers.  System 80A used 7-digit displays for scoring, and 6-digit displays for bonus values or timers too.  Both the 6-digit and 7-digit displays were limited to displaying numeric values.  System 80B differed the most by using two 20-digit alpha-numeric displays, which were stacked on top of each other.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Early gtb sys80b boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Early]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shortly after the onset of using the System 80B boardset, it was evident that the complexity of playfield designs had quickly outgrown the boardset.  Remote satellite boards, and transistors littered the underside of the playfield and inside the cabinet, because the driver board was too undersized to handle these extra duties.  A new boardset, known as the System 3 platform, was under development, but was not released until nearly 4 years later in 1990.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
	 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Typical gtb sys80b boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Typical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Later 80B Backbox.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Later Games (Hot Shots, Bad Girls, and Big House]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once a System 80 / 80A / 80B game has been methodically gone through with board design grounding flaws and connectors corrected, they are just as reliable as any of their contemporaries.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 Prototype===&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Incredible Hulk || 1979 || Unknown || 500 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit || A small number of games were used as a testing platform, which featured the system 80 boardset instead of the system 1 boardset.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 1st Generation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Amazing Spiderman|| 05-1980 || 7625 || 653 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Panthera|| 06-1980 || 5220 || 652 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||   6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Circus|| 06-1980 || 1700 || 654 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit || Ultra Widebody &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Counterforce|| 06-1980 || 3870 || 656 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||   6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Race|| 08-1980 || 870 || 657 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit || Ultra Widebody  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 2nd Generation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Sound&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|James Bond|| 10-1980 || 3625 || 658 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Time Line|| 12-1980 || 3167 || 659 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Force II|| 12-1981 || 2000 || 661 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pink Panther|| 03-1981 || 2840 || 664 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mars God of War|| 03-1981 || 5240 || 666 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || First Gottlieb® with speech, lane change, and multi-ball&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano|| 09-1981 || 3655 || 667 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || Export games used [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Hole]]|| 10-1981 || 8774 || 668 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || First Gottlieb® with 2-Level playing area, Export games used [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board and a simple single backglass with no spinning disc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Haunted House]]|| 06-1982|| 6835 || 669 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 6-digit || First game with 3-Level playing area, Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board w/o the speech chip installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Eclipse|| 1982 || 193 || 671 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit || Production game and available as a kit for James Bond 007 &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Devil&#039;s Dare|| 08-1982 || 3832 || 670 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || Export games used the [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Caveman]]|| 09-1982 || 1800 || PV810 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || Pinball / Video game hybrid &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky|| 09-1982 || 1504 || 672 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spirit|| 11-1982 || 1230 || 673 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Punk!|| 12-1982 || 959 || 674 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Striker|| 11-1982 || 910 || 675 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Krull|| 02-1983 || 10 || 676 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Goin&#039; Nuts|| 02-1983|| 10 || 682 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Q*bert&#039;s Quest|| 03-1983 || 884 || 677 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Super Orbit|| 05-1983 || 2100 || 680 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Royal Flush Deluxe|| 06-1983 || 2000 || 681 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Amazon Hunt]]|| 09-1983 || 1515 || 684 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]] or [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board. Later production games used the [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|sound only]] piggyback sound board &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rack &#039;Em Up!|| 11-1983 || 1762 || 685 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Ready... Aim... Fire!|| 11-1983 || 390 || 686 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jacks to Open|| 05-1984 || 2350 || 687 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alien Star|| 06-1984 || 1065 || 689 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || 689A Denotes a revision in the ROM code&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Games|| 08-1984|| 1768 || 691 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Touchdown|| 10-1984 || 711 || 688 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|El Dorado City of Gold|| 09-1984 || 905 || 692 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Ice Fever|| 02-1985 || 1585 || 695 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Chicago Cubs Triple Play|| 05-1985 || ~1365 || 696 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bounty Hunter|| 07-1985 || 1220 || 694 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tag Team Pinball|| 09-1985 || 1220 || 698 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] ||  Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock|| 10-1985 || 1875 || 697 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 || DIP switches 7 and 8, while listed as &amp;quot;spares&amp;quot;, 7 is actually used to turn attract sounds on / off.  There is an addendum added to the first page of the manual stating as such.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Raven|| 03-1986 || 3550 || 702 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock Encore|| 04-1986 || 245 || 704 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||Production game using same playfield art as Rock, but mainly available as a conversion kit for Rock&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hollywood Heat|| 06-1986 || 3400 || 703 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| 09-1986 || 3500 || 705 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| 10-1986 || 3260 || 707 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| 04-1987 || 3550 || 706 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| 02-1987 || 4315 || 708 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]||  Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Arena|| 06-1987 || 3099 || 709 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]||Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| 10-1987 || 3315 || 710 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diamond Lady|| 02-1988 || 2700 || 711 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|TX Sector|| 03-1988 || 2336 || 712 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| 04-1988 || 2130 || 714 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Excalibur|| 11-1988 || 1710 || 715 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||Start of the MA-1133 CPU Board. No actual speech callouts are present in this game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| 11-1988 || 2500 || 717 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big House|| 04-1989 || 1977 || 713 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Shots|| 04-1989 || 2342 || 718 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters Inc.|| 08-1989 || 2000 || 719 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 || Uses 3 sound boards - uses 50v to power flippers &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release, production numbers, and model number provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Recommended Documentation===&lt;br /&gt;
====Manuals====&lt;br /&gt;
* A game manual.  Pinball Resource has many factory originals still left, and reprints of everything else.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Repair Guides====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gottlieb Star Series 80 Service Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Gottlieb-star-series-80-service-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]][[file:Gottlieb-star-series-80-service-manual-cover-alt.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Information on how system 80 operates, with troubleshooting information outlined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1983 Technical Seminar Workbook&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Information on how system 80 operates, with troubleshooting information outlined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parts Catalogs====&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; schematics, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Gottlieb tended to publish a lot of game-specific information in parts catalogs. These have exploded diagrams of assemblies, particularly in earlier games that had the thinner, much less helpful manuals. Playfield parts, lamps, and switches are all diagrammed out. These also have collected service bulletins. Reprints are available from Pinball Resource.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1982 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1982-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Counter Force, Star Race, James Bond, Time Line, Force II, Pink Panther, Mars God Of War, Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, Caveman, Rocky. This catalog also features system 1 games.&lt;br /&gt;
|Includes parts assemblies, plus switch matrix and controlled lamp locations, board layouts, schematics, and board parts lists, coin door parts, and some cabinet parts. Includes System 1 and 80 parts and boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1987 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1987-parts-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, Rocky, Spirit, Rock, Striker, Q*bert&#039;s Quest, Super Orbit, Royal Flush, Amazon Hunt, Rack &#039;Em Up, The Games, Chicago Cubs Triple Play, Rock Encore, Ready Aim Fire, Touchdown, Bounty Hunter, Raven, Jacks To Open, El Dorado City Of Gold, Tag Team, Hollywood Heat, Alien Star, Ice Fever, Rock, Genesis&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1992 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1992-parts-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Covers 80B games starting from Gold Wings and the first 9 System 3 titles (games #706-#730).&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One interesting note about the part numbers is that the single letter that preceded the number indicated the size of the paper that was used for the original drawing/blueprint of the part. Paper sizes A up through F were used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connector Designations===&lt;br /&gt;
All Gottlieb® machines have a common naming convention for all of the connectors in the game.  A specific connection uses two parts - a prefix and a suffix.  The prefix is the board number or an inline wire junction, and the suffix is the connection on the board or a sequential wire junction number.  When referencing a specific connector pin within a housing, a dash follows the connection number.  For example, the connector pin for the slam switch signal on the CPU board is A1J5-10.  The coin door connection used on Devil&#039;s Dare is A15P1 and A15J1 - the connector pin for switch return 7 on the coin door is A15J1-8.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following boards are assigned the same numbers throughout the System 80 / 80A / 80B platforms.&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU Board - A1&lt;br /&gt;
*Power Supply - A2&lt;br /&gt;
*Driver Board - A3&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound Board - A6&lt;br /&gt;
*Pop Bumper Driver Boards - A8&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset Board - A24&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are several other board designations used, however, they change from game to game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Wiring Color Code===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unlike every other pinball manufacturer, which adopted a two-color wiring code system, Gottlieb® used three colors.  Most wiring in a Gottlieb® game used a white base color, which is the wire&#039;s insulation color, and three &amp;quot;striped&amp;quot; traces on each wire.  I state most cases, because there are some wires which only used two colors - the green insulated ground lines which have a single yellow trace, or only one color - the white ground wires used in System 80B games with no trace at all.  Below is the Gottlieb® color chart.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!0&lt;br /&gt;
!1&lt;br /&gt;
!2&lt;br /&gt;
!3&lt;br /&gt;
!4&lt;br /&gt;
!5&lt;br /&gt;
!6&lt;br /&gt;
!7&lt;br /&gt;
!8&lt;br /&gt;
!9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Color || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Black&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#A52A2A&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Brown &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FFA500&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Orange &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#800080&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Purple &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#808080&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Gray &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; White &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
Does the color chart look familiar?  Well, if you have an electronics background, it should.  The Gottlieb® wire code system is the same as the resistor color coding system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some examples of the color coding system.  The color wire code for switch strobe line 0 is 400.  400 would be a white insulated wire with a yellow trace and two black traces, or commonly referred to as a yellow-black-black wire.  The ground lines in early System 80 games are code 54.  54 would be a green insulated wire with one yellow trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is one word of caution, which should be pointed out.  If the connections on A1J2 and A1J3 are being replaced, there are wire colors on these connections which are very similar.  Although each wire is located on a different housing, please proceed with caution, as it can be difficult to see all three traces without spinning the wire around.  The wires which come to mind are 344 and 677 on A1J2, and 433 and 766 on A1J3.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Wire Coloring====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80A1J6SwitchMatrixWireColors.png|right|thumb|500px|Gottlieb® System 80 Switch Matrix Wire Coloring at Connector A1J6. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Illustration provided with permission of Sascha Voskuil aka Zaza.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
Wire colors used for the switch matrix, as connected to A1J6 on the MPU, were identical across all Gottlieb System 80/80A/80B games. They are, from pin 1 to 19, and right-to-left &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(backwards)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; as you view the front of the connector as installed on the MPU...&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-black-black&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-brown-brown&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-red-red&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-orange-orange&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-yellow-yellow&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-green-green&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-blue-blue&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-purple-purple&lt;br /&gt;
#white (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-black-black&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-brown-brown&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-red-red&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-orange-orange&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-yellow-yellow&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-green-green&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-blue-blue&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-purple-purple&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-slate-slate (+5VDC)&lt;br /&gt;
#empty&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; that not all games use all rows and/or all columns of the switch matrix. Unused switch matrix circuits are not wired.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Switch Numbering====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 switch matrix.png|left|thumb|600px|Gottlieb® System 80 Switch Matrix]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A / 80B switch matrix consists of a maximum of 64 switches.  There are a total of 8 switch strobes and 8 switch returns. However, not every switch in the matrix is used on every System 80 game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the System 1 switch numbering system, the System 80 switch numbers have a similar naming convention.  Except, the System 80 switch numbering system is the opposite of System 1.  If you are accustomed to working on System 1 games, pay close attention.  With Gottlieb® System 80 switches the first number of the switch is its strobe number, while the second number is switch&#039;s return number.  An example would be switch 54.  Switch 54 is located on strobe 5 and return 4 of the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 0&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-1 / A1J5-2)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 1&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-2 / A1J5-3)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 2&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-3 / A1J5-4)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 3&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-4 / A1J5-5)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-5 / A1J5-6)&lt;br /&gt;
! Strobe 5&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-6 / A1J5-7)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 6&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-7)&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 7&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-8 / A1J5-9)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 0 (A1J6-10)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 10&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 20&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 30&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 40&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 50&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 60&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 70&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 1 (A1J6-11)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 11&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 21&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 31&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 41&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 51&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 61&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 71&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 2 (A1J6-12)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 02&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 12&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 22&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 32&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 42&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 52&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 62&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 72&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 3 (A1J6-13)&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 03&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 13&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 26&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 33&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 43&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 53&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 63&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 73&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 4 (A1J6-14)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 04&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 14&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 24&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 34&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 44&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 54&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 64&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 74&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 5 (A1J6-15)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 05&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 15&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 25&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 35&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 45&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 55&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 65&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 75&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 6&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-16 / A1J5-8)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 06&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 16&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 26&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 36&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 46&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 56&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 66&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 76&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 7&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-17 / A1J5-1)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 07&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 17&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 27&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 37&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 47&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 57&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 67&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 77&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The &amp;quot;Missing&amp;quot; Gottlieb® System 80 Switches====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the Gottlieb® System 80 series of games, there are some switch assignments that are designated the same throughout the System 80, 80A, and 80B platforms.  These switches are typically not listed in the switch matrix portion of the manual.  You have to review the cabinet schematics, and decipher what switches use what return and strobe.  However, it appears that Gottlieb® / Premier® changed this section of the schematic starting with Excalibur or Bad Girls by no longer listing the strobes for these switches.  So, below are the &amp;quot;missing&amp;quot; switch assignments for any Sys80B.  All the info applies for Sys80 and Sys80A, except the two advance buttons, which weren&#039;t used prior to Sys80B.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;06&#039;&#039;&#039; - left advance button, also pause both lamp and relay/ solenoid tests (Sys80B only)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;07&#039;&#039;&#039; - play / test switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039; - right advance button (Sys80B only)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;17&#039;&#039;&#039; - left coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;27&#039;&#039;&#039; - right coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;37&#039;&#039;&#039; - center coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;47&#039;&#039;&#039; - replay button&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;57&#039;&#039;&#039; - plumb bob and ball roll tilts (these have the same switch assignment as the playfield tilt switch)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Black Hole is an exception.  The switch assigned for the tilt on Black Hole is 26.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The coin door slam switch is not part of the switch matrix.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Language Selection ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only way to change the language displayed is to install the correct language ROMs. Gottlieb didn’t incorporate a “soft” method of changing language selection. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Enabling Free Play===&lt;br /&gt;
Free play options were unavailable in the original System 80/80A/80B game code. However, there are some hardware modifications that can be done, stacked switches can be added to the start/credit button, or  EPROMs with free play code can replace original PROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play EPROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
For system 80/80A, the U2/U3 PROMs can be replaced with an [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Freeplay_EN.php EPROM with free play code]. Replacing U2/U3 will require an adapter, such as the [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=140-101 module from GreatPlainsElectronics], a [http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/sys80mod.php#system custom adapter board], or the Swemmer Electornics U2/U3 Adapter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 80B, the game PROM can be replaced with an [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php EPROM with free play code].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80 Games====&lt;br /&gt;
Early Gottlieb® solid state pinball machines, prior to 1990, did not have a free play option available within the game settings.  With this simple modification, a game can be set up for free play.  First, identify the diode strip in the bottom of the cabinet.  Once the diode strip is found, locate the credit button and coin switch strobe line wires.  The wires will be located on the left of the diode strip - the non-banded side of the diodes.  Below is a list of the wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Credit button wire - Green-Yellow-Yellow&lt;br /&gt;
* Left coin switch wire - Green-Brown-Brown&lt;br /&gt;
* Center coin switch wire - Green-Orange-Orange&lt;br /&gt;
* Right coin switch wire - Green-Red-Red&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtbsys80board.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Typical location of System 80 diode board in cabinet]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80FreePlayJumper.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 Black Hole diode board with jumper (yellow wire) to implement free play]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder a small lead wire from the credit button wire to any of the coin switch wires.  The wires will change to different colors on the other side of the diode. You want to solder to the side of the diode (non-banded) with the color wire specified above. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make certain that the diode, credit button wire, and coin switch wire are still soldered securely to the diode strip terminal when finished.  If soldering is not an option, use a small alligator clip test lead.  Now, when the credit button is pressed, a credit will be incremented and decremented.  A game can be easily started without the need to open the coin door to trip the coin switches anymore.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that this modification does not apply to Gottlieb® System 80A and System 80B machines.  System 80A and 80B machines use diode boards with edge connections, which are typically located on the cabinet wall near the left flipper cabinet switch.  Jumpering the diodes on System 80A and 80B games do not give the intended free play results of jumpered System 80 diodes.  This is attributed to how the diode boards are physically placed differently in circuit with respect to the switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TimeLineFreePlay.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Time Line diode board with jumper (the red wire...I mean...it&#039;s a red flippin&#039; wire. You HAVE to be able to see it!) to implement free play]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left ties the center coin chute wire (Green-Orange-Orange) to the credit button wire (Green-Yellow-Yellow).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80A Games====&lt;br /&gt;
There is no method to implement free play for System 80A games at this time, other than &amp;quot;stacking&amp;quot; the credit button switch with one of the coin drop switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80B Games====&lt;br /&gt;
A System 80B game does not have a built-in free play option available, so the fallback option to add credits is usually to open the coin door and trip the coin switches. However, there are a couple of methods that can be used to avoid doing that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Free Play Diode Board Modification=====&lt;br /&gt;
Locate the diode board used for all of the coin door switches. Remove the diode board. Add a jumper between pin 4 and pin 10 of the diode board on the solder side of the board, (this can be done on the component side instead). Make certain that the jumper is soldered onto the banded side of the diodes. This jumper essentially ties the right advance button on the front of the cabinet to the center coin switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, when the right advance button is pressed, credits will be added to the game. There have not been any ill side effects observed when the right advance button is pressed while scrolling through characters used to enter high score initials.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An alternative method that achieves the same result is to use a jumper wire with minigrabber ends and clip them on to the bottom of the 4th and 9th diodes (from the right) on the front of the board. This requires no soldering and you don&#039;t even have to remove the diode board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The jumper modification should work on games from Chicago Cubs Triple Play to Excalibur. It is unconfirmed if it will work on Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Bone Busters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400 class=center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board.JPG|Typical location of System 80B diode board on cabinet wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added.JPG|Added jumper to back of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Location_Front.JPG|Location to add jumper to front of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added_To_Front.JPG|Added minigrabber jumper to front of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Free Play ROM=====&lt;br /&gt;
Another option is a free play ROM, produced by a group of kindly fellows in France. By burning the revised image into a 2764, and installing the new ROM on the daughter card, the game will now be on free play. Their implementation notices when zero credits are on the game and the credit button has been pressed. The new code then adds 20 credits to the game, and starts a game. The System 80B free play ROMs can be found [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bookkeeping &amp;amp; Diagnostics ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 test button.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Coin Door Test Button Highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To enter the bookkeeping / diagnostic mode, open the coin door and press the red momentary switch. (Note this switch has no credit function)  Depending on the particular game, the self test button may be mounted on a bracket located on the coin door or just inside the cabinet near the coin door hinge.  Upon pressing this button, the 4-digit status display used with System 80 and System 80A games will display &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; in the credit window. Pressing the self test button again will advance to the next step in the bookkeeping.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an option to bypass all of the bookkeeping functions, entering diagnostic mode directly.  To achieve this, the self test button must first be pressed.  &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; will shown on the status display.  Then, the credit / start button should be pressed once.  The status display should now show &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;. &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; is the first test in diagnostic mode.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Bookkeeping (System 80/80A)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1 - Coins thru left chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2 - Coins thru right chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3 - Coins thru center chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4 - Total plays&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5 - Total replays&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6 - Game percentage&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7 - Extra ball&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
8 - Total tilts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
9 - Total slam tilts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
10 - Number of times the HSTD has been beaten&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
11 - First high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
12 - Second high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
13 - Third high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
14 - High score to date score&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
15 - Average game time &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Diagnostics&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
16 - Lamp test&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
17 - Coil test (will cycle and display coil number of coils used in the game. Coin counter coils, if installed, are excluded)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
18 - Switch test. (99 = no switches closed)  You can check switch numbers by pressing them on the playfield during this step.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
19 - Display test. The displays will cycle through each digit&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
20 - Memory test. (99 = no fault)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80-7641-2Error.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 &amp;quot;7641&amp;quot; Error]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An example of a ROM image checksum error (or perhaps a ROM memory access error) displayed during test 20 is pictured at left. During test 20, if a checksum error is detected, the ROM code in U2/U3 will indicate &amp;quot;7641-X&amp;quot; in the player 1 display window, with &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; being &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; to indicate PROM 1 or &amp;quot;2&amp;quot; to indicate PROM 2. If you have followed the procedure to combine the original game ROMs into a single 2716, this error message is an indicator that the checksum of either the 1st half or the 2nd half of that ROM failed. Replace the ROM.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80A5101.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A &amp;quot;5101&amp;quot; Error]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An example of a probable 5101 CMOS RAM error (or perhaps a CMOS RAM memory access error) displayed during test 20 of a System 80A &amp;quot;Spirit&amp;quot; game is pictured at left. During test 20, if a RAM error is detected, &amp;quot;5101&amp;quot; will be displayed in the player 1 display window.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B uses the same process as System 80/80A to enter bookkeeping / diagnostics.  The only difference is upon pushing the self test button the first time, the top alphanumeric display will display &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;TEST MODE&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;.  Pressing the self test button again will enter bookkeeping mode, while pressing the credit / start button will enter diagnostics mode.  After entering either mode, pressing the self test button will advance through each step in the appropriate mode.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BZ5Error.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B &amp;quot;ERROR- Z5&amp;quot;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B memory test will throw a memory error, &amp;quot;ERROR- Z5&amp;quot; as shown at left. This could indicate a failed 5101 (most likely) or it could mean that the processor can not access the 5101 due to chip select, address signal line, or data line signal line issues.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following notes apply to all System 80/A/B games.&lt;br /&gt;
*Any diagnostic test can be repeated by pressing the credit / start button.&lt;br /&gt;
*Waiting 60 seconds will reset the CPU and return the game to attract mode. &lt;br /&gt;
*The slam switch or tilt switch can be triggered to exit diagnostics. This is probably the only benefit of keeping the slam switch functional. However, considering the sometimes strange side effects which can arise from a maladjusted or malfunctioning slam switch, [[Gottlieb_System_80#Slam_Switch_Modification | disabling the slam switch]] is generally a better idea.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Default High Score To Date (HSTD)====&lt;br /&gt;
If a high score to date is not explicitly set (setting 14), then some (most) games use a default HSTD of either 770,000 or 790,000. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Pausing the Lamp and Solenoid Test (System 80B Only)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80B left advance.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The left advance button on a System 80B Game]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The following only applies to System 80B lamp and solenoid tests.  A little known fact is that the lamp and solenoid tests can be &amp;quot;paused&amp;quot; on a single lamp or single solenoid.  To stop whichever item is being tested during lamp or solenoid test, and repeat the test on the particular item, simply push and hold in the left advance button located on the front of the cabinet, as shown in the picture to the left.  The left advance button can then be released, pressed, and held in again to step to the next item in the test.  This is a particularly nice feature, because the lamps and solenoids or relays tend to be pulsed rather quickly in test, and cannot be observed very well, until the test repeats itself.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Rubber Ring Chart===&lt;br /&gt;
Although the Gottlieb® System 80 game manuals do list the location and part numbers for rubber rings used, some fail to list the actual rubber ring size.  Below is a handy chart, which lists the Gottlieb® rubber OEM number and its size.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Gottlieb® #&lt;br /&gt;
!Description &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14793 ||23/64&amp;quot; White Mini-Post&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15705 ||27/64&amp;quot; White Mini-Post&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10217 ||5/16&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-17493 || 7/16&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10218 || 3/4&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10219 || 1&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10220 || 1-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10221 || 2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10222 || 2-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10223 || 3&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10224 || 3-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10225 || 4&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10226 || 5&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-13151 || 3/8 x 1-1/2&amp;quot; Standard Red Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-13149 || 3/8 x 1&amp;quot; - Small Beaded Red Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-1344 || Rebound Rubber&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1872 || Shooter Tip&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===[[System 80 / 80A / 80B Board Set]]===&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking the link above will direct you to a new page showing all of the System 80/80A/80B boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 boards 3.png‎|800px|center|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following functional block diagram depicts the main PCBs and the input/output signals between them (#n = wire count).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:sys80b_IO_lines.png|800px|center|Gottlieb® System 80/B functional blocks and I/O lines]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===[[System 80 / 80A / 80B Satellite Boards]]===&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking the link above will direct you to a new page showing all of the System 80/80A/80B satellite boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 psu.JPG‎|300px|thumb|left|System 80 / 80A Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 psu back.JPG|300px|thumb|right|System 80 / 80A Power Supply - Showing the Large Heat Sink]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 / 80A power supply is very similar to the System 1 power supply, where as the circuit board is secured to a large &amp;quot;hot plate&amp;quot; heat sink. This style power supply is used for all System 80 and 80A games from Spiderman to Ice Fever, and is the source of the following:&lt;br /&gt;
* +5 VDC logic power&lt;br /&gt;
*+8 VDC offset voltage needed for the displays&lt;br /&gt;
*+60 VDC for the 6 or 7 digit displays&lt;br /&gt;
*+42 VDC for the status display&lt;br /&gt;
*Ground from earth ground located on the transformer panel&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unlike the System 1 power supply, the +5 VDC logic power is no longer rectified and filtered on the power supply itself.  This process is now handled by a bridge rectifier and a large filtering capacitor located on the transformer panel.  The System 80 power still employs a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crowbar_%28circuit%29 crowbar circuit] for the logic power, which protects from over-voltage situations.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although these power supplies are fairly reliable, there are some drawbacks to the design.  By incorporating a large heat sink for the PMD10K40 / 2N6059 TO-3 transistor on the board, a lot of heat is dissipated throughout the whole board.  This in turn will limit the life expectancy of the other electronic components on the board.  Equally, the heat sink must be removed in order to perform component level repairs to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply==== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A sound &amp;amp; speech board (S&amp;amp;S) is used starting with Mars God of War (MGOW).  Because of the voltages needed to drive some of the components on the S&amp;amp;S board, this secondary power supply is added to the power train.  The voltages generated from this board are:&lt;br /&gt;
*+12 VDC used for the analog inverters and voice synthesizer chip&lt;br /&gt;
*-12 VDC used for the analog inverters&lt;br /&gt;
*+30 VDC used by the sound amplifier (LM379)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 sands power1.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 80 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply (1st Generation)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are two different variations of this power supply.  The first style is used only with MGOW and Volcano, and is not a printed circuit board (PCB).  The electronic components were screwed to a block of wood, which is located on the left wall of the lower cabinet.  Conducting tests and repairs to this style power supply can be awkward and difficult.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 s&amp;amp;s psu.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply (2nd Generation)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Black Hole, the S&amp;amp;S power supply is now on a circuit board (MA-188), which is located in the head of the game with the other circuit boards.  Even though each style of S&amp;amp;S power supply uses different components for the generation of +12 VDC, the end result is the same.  The S&amp;amp;S power supply was no longer used when Gottlieb® went a step backwards, and installed the System 80A sounds only board with the piggyback board.  This change occurred during the run of Amazon Hunt.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The generation 1 and generation 2 sound board power supplies are not pin compatible. One could be exchanged for the other by rearranging connections of a 9-pin molex connector. However, this is not recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Power Supplies====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Chicago Cubs, the Gottlieb® power train went through a bit of a face lift. The System 80B platform uses two separate boards to supply power.  This design change is mainly due to the single display board, which rectifies the high voltage on the board itself.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b psu.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 80B +5 VDC Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The small power supply with the finned heat sink is only used to generate +5 VDC for logic power.  Although, removing the heat sink is not necessary to work on the board, this power supply has its own set of issues.  First, it does not have a crow bar circuit.  If the LM338K voltage regulator fails, and fails whereas the voltage increases drastically, it can destroy electronic components on the other circuit boards.  Secondly, it&#039;s not as bad, but heat is still dissipated throughout the board.  Third, the adjustable potentiometer (pot) on the power supply is prone to failure, due to dirt, dust, and contaminants.  Finally, it is typical for the header pins on the input and output of the board to develop cracked solder joints.  The two latter problems can easily be overcome, and will be addressed in the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Repairs_for_the_System_80B_Power_Supply_Board Recommended Repairs for the System 80B Power Supply Board] section below.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b aux psu.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Rock, the second power supply is added, and is referred to as the auxiliary power supply. The primary functions of this board is used to power the sound board, and amplify the audio output. This sound amplifier board is used in concert with MA-766 and MA-886 sound boards. A breakdown of the voltages supplied by the auxiliary power supply are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*-12 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
*+12 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80B-MA1017AuxPowerSupply.jpg |300px|thumb|left|System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply with .156 headers versus edge connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BoneBustersSpecificAmpBoard.jpg |300px|thumb|right|A BoneBusters Inc specific Auxiliary Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This Auxiliary Power Supply board changed with the release of Bad Girls. Edge connections were no longer used. Instead, .156&amp;quot; header pins were added to the board as shown at left. Note that the System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply board is slightly different from the System 3 Auxiliary Power Supply board. The System 80B board uses a 1K ohm, 2 watt resistor at R8. The System 3 board uses a 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistor at that location.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=347 Bone Busters Inc.] uniquely used a modified Auxiliary Power Supply board as pictured at right. A connection was made between pin 12 and the intersection of R1 and R2 to connect the audio output of the second, less populated sound board to the amplifier circuitry. A 1.8K ohm 1/4 watt resistor makes the connection while balancing the audio level from this input. No other game used pin 12 or this configuration.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 cpu divided.png‎|300px|left|thumb|Gottlieb® System 80 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 CPU board is a 6502 based microprocessor system. The 6502 microprocessor (the very same one used in the first Apple computer and the Atari 2600) executes the basic operating system contained in the masked ROMs at U2/U3.  The masked ROMs at U2 and U3 have the same code for all of the different generations of the System 80 platform.  U2 and U3 code changed with the System 80A platform.  The game code &amp;quot;personality&amp;quot; augments the basic operating system PROM(s).  Early System 80 games which used two ROMs at PROM1 and PROM2 positions were masked ROMs.  Later, when the game code could be held in a single 2716, an EPROM was used instead. Battery-backed memory for audits and adjustable game parameters is added via a 5101 256x4 bit CMOS memory at Z5. &amp;quot;Scratchpad&amp;quot; memory is contained in the three 6532 RIOTs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Control of peripheral devices (in this case lamps, displays, solenoids, switches and sound) is accomplished via three 6532 RIOTs (RAM-I/O-Timer) at U4, U5, and U6. Each RIOT in turn controls it&#039;s own &amp;quot;subsystem&amp;quot; to drive these devices.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Switch matrix (U4)&lt;br /&gt;
*Displays (U5)&lt;br /&gt;
*Solenoids (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
*Lamps (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four generations of the System 80 board.  All of the CPU boards can be easily identified by their revision numbers notated just below the operator adjustable dip switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====1st Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 CPU 1st ver.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generation CPU is used in the first 5 System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-001&lt;br /&gt;
*DET PB03-D102-001&lt;br /&gt;
*REV B&lt;br /&gt;
This board uses two masked PROM chips for the game code.  The chips are typically labeled with the three digit game model number followed by /1 or /2, designating the game PROM position.  An example of this naming convention is shown in the pic to the left.  652/1X and 652/2X are game PROM 1 and PROM 2 for Panthera.  The &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; in this case designates a code revision.  The masked ROMs at position U2 and U3 are not socketed on this board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With some simple modifications, this board is upward compatible to use a single 2716 EPROM placed in the PROM 1 socket of the board.  With the change of U2 and U3, this board can be used in System 80A games.  The board could potentially be used in a System 80B game with many modifications, and the addition of a daughter board, however, it is not recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlySystem80MPUFactoryCutJumper.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The corrected trace layout error in the 1St generation System 80 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This generation of board has a trace layout error that was corrected by a cut and jumper which moves the trace that terminates at Z5 (5101) pin 20 from Z36 pin 10 to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 cpu front scale.png|300px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation (Front)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 cpu back scale.png|300px|thumb|right|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation (Back)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;skeletal&amp;quot;, semi-populated board scans can be very useful when having to replace or follow traces on a CPU board.  Although the scans are of the 1st generation CPU board, most areas can be used for other generation CPU boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====2nd Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Placeholder for System 80 CPU Board - 2nd Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
The second generation CPU is used in some System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-??? (check boards for the suffix)&lt;br /&gt;
*DETAIL PB03-D107-001&lt;br /&gt;
This board uses a single 2716 EPROM chip for the game code located at the PROM 1 socket position.  The chips are typically labeled with the three digit game model number.  Occasionally, the chip&#039;s game number label will be followed by /1, /2, /3, or even /4. In this case, the number following the slash is the code revision number.  An example of this naming convention is 658 /2, which is a game PROM for James Bond - code revision 2.  The masked ROMs at position U2 and U3 are not socketed on this board either.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the change of U2 and U3, this board can be used in System 80A games.  The board could potentially be used in a System 80B game with many modifications, and the addition of a daughter board, however, it again is not recommended.  The second generation CPU is backward compatible, provided a doubled up, single game PROM is used at the PROM 1 position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====3rd Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 CPU 2nd gen.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 3rd Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
The third generation CPU is used in some System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-011&lt;br /&gt;
*DETAIL PB03-D107-003&lt;br /&gt;
This board is essentially the same as the second generation board, except an eyelet ground trace was placed just above Z33 on the board.  This ground trace was never used.  All information which applies to the second generation CPU board, applies to this board.  The third generation CPU is backward compatible, provided the same is done to it as the 2nd generation board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====4th Generation CPU Board (System 80A)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80A CPU.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 80A CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The fourth generation CPU is used in all System 80A games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*D 20869&lt;br /&gt;
This board is the same as the third generation board, except the U2 and U3 masked ROM chips have different code, and are now socketed.  The PROM 2 socket is no longer populated on the board.  The fourth generation CPU is backward compatible, provided the System 80 ROM code is installed at U2 and U3.  If used on a game with the 1st generation CPU, the game code must be doubled up on a 2716 EPROM, and installed at the PROM 1 position.  This board is forward compatible with System 80B, provided all of the above outlined modifications are performed.  Out of all the System 80 CPU boards, this is the most compatible with System 80B, due to using the same base circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====5th Generation CPU Board (System 80B)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80B CPU.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 80B CPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The fifth generation CPU is used in all System 80B games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*D 20869&lt;br /&gt;
Even though the base circuit board is identical to the fourth generation CPU board, it&#039;s being named the fifth generation board, due to all of the major changes.  The U2 and U3 masked ROM and sockets have been replaced with a piggyback daughter board soldered via header pins mounted in the U3 position.  The daughter board uses a 2764 EPROM.  Most of the related display segment and digit chips are no longer populated.  This is due to the single display board handling these functions on its own board.  The missing chips once used for the displays are Z19, Z21, Z22, Z23, Z24, and Z25. Equally, jumpers have been placed where Z19 and Z21 once resided. The fifth generation CPU is backward compatible, after the daughter board has been removed, and the missing display chips populated.  Note that there technically are two different 80B CPU boards - MA-774 and MA-1133.  The only difference between these two boards is a cut trace on the component side and a long trace wire added on the solder side from the E3 jumper to pin 35 of TC1. This modification is done to increase the ROM size of PROM 2 from a 2716 to a 2732.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Any of the Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A / 80B CPU boards are compatible cross platform.  It&#039;s just matter of how much work must be done to modify each board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 80B CPU Jumper Settings=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Jumpers.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The location of jumpers discussed...]]&lt;br /&gt;
All System 80B games have the E1 and E2 jumpers installed.  Jumpers E8, E9, E10, E11, E12 are unused in all games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first five System 80B games, Chicago Cubs, Bounty Hunter, Tag Team Pinball, Rock, and Rock Encore, use a single ROM at the daughterboard chip socket. Therefore, jumpers associated with PROM 2 connections may not be installed. If jumpers are installed, it doesn&#039;t matter what position(s) they are placed in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For all games after the first five System 80B games and prior to the last five, jumpers E4, E5, and E7 should be installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the last five System 80B games, Excalibur, Bad Girls, Big House, Hot Shots, and Bone Busters, jumpers E3, E5, and E7 should be installed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set), these same jumpers should be installed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;The last five System 80B games, along with Night Moves, used a 2732 PROM at the &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot; position.  The socket is marked PROM 1&amp;quot;, but PROM 2 is inserted into this chip socket . Additional modifications to the PCB may be necessary. See [[Gottlieb_System_80#...using_an_MA-1133_or_MA-774_MPU_in_games_that_REQUIRE_a_2732 | &amp;quot;...using an MA-1133 or MA-774 MPU in games that require a 2732&amp;quot;]], for more information.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====U2/U3 ROM Part Numbers====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80ROMs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 80 ROMs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All Gottlieb System 80 U2/U3 ROMs will be labeled as pictured at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U2 is labeled &amp;quot;R3273-12&amp;quot; on the center line. The top line is the part number, a 2332 ROM. The bottom line is the date code, in this case, the 15th week of 1981.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U3 is labeled &amp;quot;R3272-12&amp;quot; on the center line. The top line is the part number, a 2332 ROM. The bottom line is the date code, in this case, the 12th week of 1981.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80AROMs.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 80A ROMs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb System 80A ROMs may be labeled in a few different ways since Gottlieb used several manufacturers to provide the ROMs. A clear indication that the ROMs are for System 80A games is that somewhere in the labeling, &amp;quot;XO-326 U2&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;XO-327 U3&amp;quot; will be shown as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 drvr pw.png|300px|thumb|left|The System 80A / 80B Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Driver board is responsible for all controlled lamps, relays, and all solenoids in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via a simple interface between A1J4 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.  Although the driver board went through some minor changes over the years, the same board can be adapted for all of the System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; total of 52 &#039;&#039;&#039;lamp circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the interface provides &amp;quot;device select&amp;quot; signals for each of the 74175s (Quad-D Flip-Flops) on the driver board, and 4 &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; of data that is loaded (or &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot;) into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives an MPS-A13 or MPS-U45 transistor, (NDS-U45 transistors were used in place of MPS-U45s in some cases). Gottlieb® did not implement a &amp;quot;lamp matrix&amp;quot; as some other manufacturers did.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that there are some dedicated lamp transistors, which control specific game relays across the System 80 / 80A platforms.  Relays such as the game over, tilt, and coin lockout relays are controlled by Q1, Q2, and Q3 respectively.  The tilt and game over relays use the same designation for the System 80B platform, however, the use of a coin lockout relay was abandoned by this time. One neat feature of the driver board circuitry is that lamp &amp;quot;n&amp;quot; is driven by transistor Q&amp;quot;n+1&amp;quot;. i.e. L12 is driven by Q13.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_drvr_board_coin_ctrs.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Driver Board with Coin Counter Transistors Highlighted ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;solenoids circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the driver board uses signals directly from the CPU to enable transistors on the driver board which turn on up to 9 solenoids.  For solenoid control, the driver board uses MPS-U45, 2N3055, and 2N6043 transistors.  Starting and ending with the System 80 platform, (games from Spiderman to Haunted House), three transistors were reserved to drive optional mechanical coin counters. These mechanical coin counter solenoids and associated transistors are: solenoid 3 (Q54), 4 (Q55), and 7 (Q56). Starting with the System 80A platform, (Devil&#039;s Dare), these transistors were no longer reserved for coin counters, and were used for other functions. Equally, the 3 diodes associated with these 3 transistors were changed to 3 zero ohm jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;sound&#039;&#039;&#039; signals (S1, S2, S4, S8) also pass through the driver board at Z13, a 7404 Hex Inverter. See below for S16 and S32.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Repurposed Driver Board Circuits====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb under pf transistor.JPG‎|300px|thumb|left| A Typical Remote Transistor Mounted Under the Playfield]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since quite a few System 80 games employ more than 9 solenoids, and since the original driver board design will drive a maximum of 9 solenoids, Gottlieb® repurposed some lamp outputs to drive &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot; which drive additional solenoids.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb ma1011 trans board.JPG‎|300px|thumb|left| A Typical Transistor Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once playfields became littered with numerous &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot;, Gottlieb® opted to merge some of these transistors into a transistor driver board.  The transistor driver board started to appear on Gottlieb® games nearly midway through the System 80B platform, with the game Victory.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound S16 and S32 signals are also repurposed lamp outputs. For instance, Haunted House and Black Hole both repurpose L9 to S16. Robo-War repurposes lamp 4 to S16. Note that S16 is not consistently implemented across the System 80 family. Note also that references to the usage of S32 are difficult to find.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Lamp Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb aux lamp 5.JPG|300px|thumb|left| A Typical Aux. Lamp Driver Board Using MPS-U45 Transistors (Maximum Control of 10 Lamps]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb aux lamp MA866 2N6043.JPG|300px|thumb|right| A Typical Aux. Lamp Driver Board Using 2N6043 Transistors (Controls a Maximum of 20 Lamps]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Time Line, several System 80/80A/80B platform games use auxiliary lamp driver boards.  These boards are commonly referred to as &amp;quot;chaser boards&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;lamp chaser boards&amp;quot;.  The reason for either of these nicknames is because these boards are used to control lamps for effect.  They are either placed in the backbox or under the playfield.  With later System 80B games, they were located in the lower cabinet.  Location is typically dependent upon what lamps are being controlled.  The aux. lamp driver boards are not controlled by the CPU.  The only signals needed for an aux. lamp driver board to function is +5V and ground.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several different variants of auxiliary lamp driver boards used.  The earliest versions use MPS-U45 transistors to control a maximum of three lamps per transistor.  Both 15 and 30 lamp versions (5 or 10 transistors) of this board exist.  Some later boards use NDS-U45 transistors instead of MPS-U45 transistors.  It is assumed this is due to a the cost or lack of MPS-U45 transistors during production.  Either of these style of boards are interchangeable with one another.  Finally, there are some boards used in later games which use 2N6043 transistors.  These are designed to control #67 flashlamps, but this is not always the case.  This style board was used to control lamps also.  These boards are equally compatible with previous designed boards, when used as a complete, drop-in replacement.  However, MPS-U45, NDS-U45, and CEN-U45 transistors are not 1-to-1 compatible with 2N6043 transistors.  A viable replacement transistor for the 2N6043 is the TIP102.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main difference between any of the auxiliary lamp boards is the amount of transistors used to drive lamps, and the resistor (R13) used to control the rate at which the lamps flash or &amp;quot;chase&amp;quot;.  Boards using 2N6043 transistors have different resistor values for resistors R2-R11 than boards which use MPS-U45s or NDS-U45s.  A table of auxiliary lamp driver boards used on most games is shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Total Transistors&lt;br /&gt;
!Total Lamps Controlled&lt;br /&gt;
!R13 Resistor Value&lt;br /&gt;
!Controls&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Line|| ||10||?||820K Ohm||Chaser lamps behind nuclear symbol on backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Mars:God of War|| ||10||28||330K Ohm||Backglass perimeter chaser lamps||In backbox||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mars:God of War|| ||5||10 (LEDs)||330K Ohm||LEDs behind tube||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano|| ||10||20||560K Ohm||Upper backglass perimeter chaser lamps and volcano effect behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Black Hole|| ||10||28||270K Ohm||Backglass perimeter chaser lamps||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Haunted House||MA-234||10||21||270K Ohm||Behind backglass lightning effect lamps||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky|| ||10||19||560K Ohm||Behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spirit|| ||10||20||Varies||Behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tag Team Pinball|| ||10||20||820K Ohm||Multiball insert illumination||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock|| ||10||18||680K Ohm||Extra ball insert path||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock Encore|| ||10||18||680K Ohm||Extra ball insert path||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Raven|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Inserts leading to ramp||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hollywood Heat|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Ramp insert illumination||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| ||10||10 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||In top of backbox ||Under PF||Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| ||10||10 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Around playfield window ||Under PF||Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||8 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Flashers in topper ||Under PF||1 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||6 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Flashers in topper ||Under PF||2 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||10||680K Ohm||Inserts leading to ramp ||Under PF||3 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| ||10||5||680K Ohm||Behind $10,000,000 sign||Under PF||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| ||10||30||680K Ohm||Lamps around perimeter of topper||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| ||10||30||680K Ohm||In topper||Under PF||1 of 2; only if topper present?&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Special shot and shooter loop||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Arena||MA-936||None||10 (LEDs)||560K Ohm||LED strip under shooter lane wireform ||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| ||10||10 (#86 bulbs)||680K Ohm||Next to left ramp||Under PF||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| ||10||10 (#86 bulbs)||680K Ohm||Next to right ramp||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diamond Lady||MA-789||10||5||680K Ohm||Loop right of the ramp||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Inserts in lower portion of playfield ||Lower cabinet||(1 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| ||10||10 ||680K Ohm||Under playfield glass stop||Lower cabinet||(2 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| ||10||5||680K Ohm||Drop target illumination ||Lower cabinet||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| ||10||10 ||10M Ohm||Under playfield glass stop||Lower cabinet||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters||MA-789||10||12||680K Ohm||Playfield inserts ||Under PF||(1 of 2) Uses NSD-U45&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters||MA-866||10||20 (#67 flashers)||680K Ohm||Backbox lamp insert||In backbox||(2 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® uses different sound boards throughout the course of all System 80 platforms.  Several of the sound boards cross platforms too.  Out of all of the sound boards used, there is really only about three base units total with variations made to each one.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sounds Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound Board MA-55 (Sounds only)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first System 80 sound board is capable of sound only.  Based on the 6503 CPU architecture, this sound board is very similar to the System 1 Multi-Mode sound board.  However, there are a couple of differences between the two boards.  First, the +12VDC is no longer rectifed on the sound board.  The +12VDC power comes from the power supply.  Secondly, the +5VDC is no longer regulated on the sound board. The System 80 sound receives +5VDC from the power supply also.  Finally, the pin outs for the System 1 sound board and the System 80 sound board are completely different.  Even though either board will plug into either platform,  &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT PLUG A SYSTEM 1 SOUND BOARD INTO A SYSTEM 80 GAME AND VICE VERSA!!!&#039;&#039;&#039;  If this is done, bad stuff will happen.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, there are two chips on this style of board which are very difficult to source. This sound board uses a 6503 CPU and 6530 RIOT chip with special embedded code. 6530 chips marked with R3016-11 are for this System 80 sound board. 6530 chips marked with a R3014-12 or R3014-13 are for the earlier System 1 sound board. The two chips are not cross-compatible since they each have different code embedded in them for each game system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to being used in early System 80 games, this sounds-only board was also used in the export versions of Black Hole, Volcano, and Devil&#039;s Dare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is missing or cannot be repaired, there are daughter boards and aftermarket boards available.  A daughter board called the &amp;quot;[https://coinop.mally.eu/produkt.php?bestellnr=101647&amp;amp;details=1 MIOT adapter]&amp;quot; is a replacement for the 6530 chip for both System 1 and System 80 sounds boards, produced in Germany. Pascal Janin in France has made a replacement sound board for both the original 2nd generation sound boards, and combination System 1 2nd gen boards / System 80/80A sound boards. These boards can purchased directly from Pascal - [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx1.php 2nd gen sound] &amp;amp; [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php combination Sys1 / Sys80/80A sound] . Although Pascal does not have US distributors, [http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/flippp.html Big Daddy Enterprises], sometimes has these sound boards available too.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Prototype Sounds Only Board as found in System 80 Hulk&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Images below capture a factory original Sounds only board prototype, complete with cuts (on component side) and jumpers (on solder side). Note the sound ROM marking of &amp;quot;500&amp;quot;, the game number assigned to the System 80 Hulk prototype (10 units built). Also note the &amp;quot;extra&amp;quot; 24 pin IC labeled 7681-5 in the center of the board. This IC is not present on production versions of this board. Just a guess, but since this board has a 6532 installed vs the production 6530 (40 pin IC), the 7681 appears to be ROM space to drive the sound program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=450px heights=250px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 Hulk Prototype Sound Only Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80HulkSoundsOnlyBoardFront.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Component side. Note &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot; at pin 21 of the center 24 pin IC.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80HulkSoundsOnlyBoardBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Solder side. Note factory green jumpers.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80&amp;amp;a s&amp;amp;s.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A B-20887-2 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Front.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A B-20887-3 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Mars God of War, the second System 80 sound board has the capability of speech.  Ironically, this board is commonly referred to as the &amp;quot;sound and speech board&amp;quot;, and was brought over from the Gottlieb® video game division at the time.  Fortunately, Gottlieb® chose the 6502 CPU architecture just like the CPU board.  There is a 6532 RIOT used also.  The downside to this board is the now rare LM379S amp and SC-01 phoneme speech chip are both difficult to acquire.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are approximately three renditions of this board.  Each will be marked with [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Different_Revisions_of_the_Sound_and_Speech_Boards B-20887-X].  The &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; denotes a suffix of 1, 2, or 3.  If the board has [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap wire wrap] or resistors added to the solder side of the board, do not assume that it is some sort of diabolical, weird hack.  These were recommended upgrades either done by the factory or out in the field.  With each higher revision number, less wire wrap and resistors are present on the solder side of the board.  However, each board revision typically has some degree of wire wrap added to it.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics corresponding to the -1 revision of the board can be found in the Mars, God of War and Volcano manuals. Schematics corresponding to the -3 revision of the board can be found in the Black Hole and Haunted House manuals.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A Sound Board w/ MA-483 Piggyback Board (replaces LM379S amp)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® MA-483 Piggyback Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To reduce costs, Gottlieb® abandoned the speech option, and went a step backwards with a board generating sounds only.  In doing so, they used the same B-20887-3 base board as the most current sound and speech board.  The SC-01 speech chip socket in addition to the 74xx TTL chips, one of the LM741 op amps, and discrete components associated with the speech circuit were not installed on the board.  By the time this board was first used, the LM379S amp was too costly and difficult to source.  The solution was to add a single-side, piggyback board (as shown in the picture) with a TDA2002 amplifier and other necessary components.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this board is used as a replacement in a game which uses a sound &amp;amp; speech power supply, (Haunted House for example), modifications to the s&amp;amp;s power supply must be made.  This is due to the higher voltages necessary to operate the LM379S amp versus the TDA2002.  If this board is installed in a game where the sound and speech board power supply was not modified, the guarantee of destroying the TDA2002 amp is inevitable.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GottliebSystem80SoundMA483WithPigAndDip.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A Sound Board w/ MA-483 Piggyback Board and DIP switch bank]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A slightly different variant of this board was used in Royal Flush Deluxe. This revision of the board included the 8 position DIP switch bank.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Only Board with Piggyback====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80ABSoundsOnlyWithPiggyback.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A / 80B Sound Board MA-490 w/ MA-488 Piggyback Board (Sounds only)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb piggyback sound factory trace wire.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80A / 80B Sound Board w/ Factory Trace Wire]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To reduce costs even more, Gottlieb® started using a modified sound only board, which was first used with Spiderman in 1980.  This &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; sound board was first used during the production of Amazon Hunt, and continued until Tag Team Pinball. The main modification of the board was the addition of a piggyback board.  The piggyback board was used to increase the size of the sound ROM by using a 2716 EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Two other noteworthy modifications are an added factory trace wire on the solder side of the board, and a cut trace between pin 8 of U7 (7404) and a header pin on the component side of the board. The added trace wire runs from pin 3 of U1 (6503 CPU) to pin 18 of U2 (piggyback header pins).  Both of these modifications should remain intact for the board to function properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is also worth mentioning that this is one of the few instances where Gottlieb® used a double-sided piggyback board.  The benefit of using a double-sided board is the decreased chance of cracked header pins, where the header pins attach to the underside of the piggyback board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (two button)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-766 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
And now for something completely different.  Well, not really.  The MA-766 sound board hit the scene with Rock, but a similar design was already used prior by the Gottlieb® video game division (Mylstar) when it existed.  It is based on the 6502 CPU architecture, but uses two 6502s instead of one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Two momentary push button switches are present on the board - SW1 and SW2.  Upon pushing SW1, the sound board should output a single blip (tone).  SW2 is used to manually reset the CPU on the sound board.  A bank of 4 dipswitches is located adjacent to SW1.  Dipswitches 1-3 should always be off, while dipswitch 4 should remain on for proper function.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (one button)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTBMA886SoundDepop.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886 Sound Board, only partially populated (found in Big House, Hollywood Heat, Bad Girls, etc.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 board is essentially the same as the previous sound board, except it uses 2 separate .156&amp;quot; header pin connections instead of edge connectors for inputs / outputs. Some other obvious changes are the omission of momentary test button SW1, the omission of the 4-bank dipswitch, the omission of YROM2 socket. In addition, a socket is sometimes populated at position S4 and neither AY-3-8913 orator chip is populated.  Momentary test button SW2 is still preset, and is still used to manually reset the board&#039;s processor.  The lack of YROM2 is because the MA-886 board allows for the use of larger EPROMs.  The S4 socket has been added on some boards, and is used to transfer data via a ribbon cable to an auxiliary sound board (MA-1033 or MA-1294). These boards also stuff R58 with a 10K 1/4W resistor and may have JP8 cut or not stuffed.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Bone Busters Sound Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MA766-719A.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886-719A Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886-719A sound board (also noted as MA-1299-719 in the manual) is an additional sound board found only in Bone Busters. It is based on the MA-886 sound board, but it is a stripped down version with much fewer populated components.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Amazon Hunt II Sound Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:placeholder.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-982 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-982 sound board is used only in the conversion game: Amazon II. It is based on the MA-886 sound board, but it is a stripped down version with much fewer populated components.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Auxiliary Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
There are two versions of the auxiliary sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MA1033AuxSound.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1033 Auxiliary Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-1033 auxiliary sound board was used in System 80B games including: Bad Girls, Big House, and Hot Shots, as well as one System 3 game: Lights, Camera, Action.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys3 sound MA-1294.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1294 Auxiliary Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-1294 auxiliary sound board was only used in one System 80B game, Bone Busters, as well as System 3 games including: Hoops, Bell Ringer, Silver Slugger, Car Hop, Deadly Weapon, Title Fight, and Vegas.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Speakers===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Panthera Head Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Typical speaker located in the head of a System 80 game (Panthera)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games use a dual speaker system.  In most cases, (where there is a grill above the backglass), there is a 6-1/2&amp;quot;, 8 ohm, low wattage speaker in the lower cabinet, and a second one in the head, behind the grill in the backbox.  Some games, like Haunted House, have two speakers in the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB-80a-the-games-speaker.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Single speaker from an 80A game (The Games)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;System 80A games may have two speakers or just one. Again, these are 6-1/2&amp;quot;, 4 ohm, low wattage speakers.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Tag Team Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Single speaker from an early 80B game (Tag Team)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 80B games, Chicago Cubs, Tag Team, and Bounty Hunter, all use a single 6-1/2&amp;quot; 4 ohm speaker in the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Rock, 80Bs use a 6-1/4&amp;quot; in the cabinet and a small speaker on the left of the display panel.  The last few 80B games, where the speaker panel is located above the translite, use three speakers total (2 above the translite and 1 in the lower cabinet).&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GottliebSixDigitDisplay.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 6 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 6 digit display back.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 6 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display back.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80=====&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is step number 19 System 80 games. Each display, including the credit/match display participates in &amp;quot;walking&amp;quot; each digit (0 through 9 beginning with 0) across each display. The &amp;quot;walking&amp;quot; begins at the match side of the credit/match display, then moves to players 1 and 3, then to players 2 and 4. After a &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is walked through all displays, the cycle starts again with &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 7 digit display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A 7 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 7 digit display back.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80A 7 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display back.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80A=====&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is step number 19 System 80A games. Each display lights every position, and advances through all of the numbers starting with &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and ending with &amp;quot;9&amp;quot;.  Once &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is reached, the process starts over at &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; again.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayFront.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-644 Display Component Side]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayBack.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-644 Display Solder Side]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games introduced the 20 alphanumeric character dual line display module. These displays evolved over time. The one pictured here was used in games Chicago Cubs Triple Play until Excalibur. The two large ICs found on this board (Rockwell 10941 segment driver and Rockwell 10939 digit driver) are long obsolete and very hard to obtain. Other components on the board are readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board rectifies 32VAC via diodes CR1-CR4 to produce -45VDC and -15VDC for use by the segment and digit drivers. Should one or more of these diodes fail, the foil trace on the board sometimes acts like a fuse, and burns itself up. The picture at right shows a board that experienced this failure, along with a jumper to repair the damaged trace.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:GTB_80B_Large_AlphN_Display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb System 80B MA-999 Alpha-Numeric Display Board with header pin connections. (Bad Girls)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The last System 80B games (Hot Shots, Big House, Bad Girls, and Bone Busters) all used a larger alphanumeric vacuum fluorescent display assembly.  This type of display used two sets of .156&amp;quot; header pins instead of the more familiar edge connection.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80B=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb alphanum display test.gif|thumb|left|300px|Simulation of System 80B display test]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is test number 20 for System 80B.  All 40 of the alpha-numeric &amp;quot;digits&amp;quot; (both the top and bottom displays) will light starting with a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;, next a &amp;quot;+&amp;quot;, then an &amp;quot;X&amp;quot;, and finally a &amp;quot;,&amp;quot;.  In doing this, all possible segments of all the display digits are lit at one point during display test.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Reset Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 reset.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80B MA-980 Reset Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Newer Reset Board.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1143 Reset/Anti-Static Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Devil&#039;s Dare, the first System 80A game, the reset board became a staple of the Gottlieb® design to automatically reset the CPU board should the CPU lock up.  Apparently games locking up on location was an issue with System 80 games.  The reset board was created to resolve this issue, should the game lock up, and no one is present to manually reset the game by shutting it off and turning it back on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-980 reset board is a small footprint PCB with the board designation of A24, and is located adjacent to the TC1 connector of the CPU board.  The connection on the reset board is A24P1, while the connection for TC1 of the CPU board is A24P2.  As long as someone can turn the game off, should it lock up, there is no need to keep the reset board connected.  In most cases, the aged reset boards are more troublesome if allowed to remain connected.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTBResetBoardConnector.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Connection at TC1 to the reset board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB_RW_3K_Pullup.JPG|thumb|right|300px|A 3.0Kohm resistor, added between pins 7 and 11 of TC1.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Along with adding the reset board, Gottlieb® added a 3.0Kohm resistor across pins 7 and 11 of the reset board connection at MPU connector TC1. If not using the reset board, it&#039;s advised to add this resistor to the back of the board, as shown at right. This resistor pulls the R/W (read/write) line high when not pulled down by the 6502.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using connector A24-P2, do not add the 3.0Kohm resistor.  Doing so will change the effective resistance to 1.5Kohms (value of resistors in parallel).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reset board connector also has a 1N270 diode soldered to it. There is no need to add this diode to the MPU since it&#039;s part of the reset board function.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;More Regarding the 3Kohm Pullup Resistor&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Most MPU boards will work without the reset board but some MPU boards do refuse to work without the Read/Write pullup resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 3K resistor was added for two reasons:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#It provides a stable Read/Write signal at power-up. There is a tiny fraction of time at power up where data can be written into Z5 but due to gate Z36A, this data write is prevented. The resistor does provide a proper biasing to the Read/Write line at time of powerup.&lt;br /&gt;
#More importantly - A Rockwell 6502 has a minimum VOH of 2.4volts, a 4069 requires a minimum VIH of 4 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In other words:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The Read/Write output from U1 (pin 34) guarantees the output will be 2.4 volts or higher for a logic 1.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The 4069 located at Z36D (pin 9 input of Z36) requires the input to be 4 volts or higher for a logic 1.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The 3K pullup resistor pulls the Z36D input closer to the required voltage range.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do realize that even though this problem exists on all System 80/80A/80B boards but only a very small fraction of these Gottlieb boards exhibit any symptoms. The chances that you have one if these that exhibit symptoms is quite slim.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Initial Troubleshooting===&lt;br /&gt;
When attempting to troubleshoot a malfunctioning or non-booting game, there are a few initial steps to perform before diving into more serious troubleshooting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# If the MPU has damage from a leaking battery, it will need to be addressed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off all the edge connector contacts using a pink rubber eraser. This will remove any tarnish or grime that has built up over the years. Do not use sandpaper or fiberglass erasers on the contacts--they will only thin the material. There is a small risk that rubbing the eraser on the contacts will dislodge one of them, but this is very uncommon to see happen on system 80 boards.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check all the fuses using a multimeter in diode/continuity mode. Do not rely on a visual inspection. Sometimes a fuse will appear to be intact, but actually may be blown. Fuses are located near the transformer and on the underside of the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check voltages on the fuses near the transformer to make sure they are as expected.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the power supply voltages and make sure that they are as expected. 5v may need to be adjusted to 5.03v to ensure that the MPU recieves the necessary power it needs in order to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be sure to [[#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness|install the two jumper wires in the interconnect harness]] between the driver board and MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These steps may help address a number of common issues before proceeding to some of the more specific problems that can occur with system 80 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connectors, Connectors, Connectors===&lt;br /&gt;
Connectors, connectors, connectors!!!  Since the Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B boardset primarily relies on Molex connectors to pass data and voltages from board to board, the connectors should be addressed first.  Before even attempting to turn a Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B game on for the first time, worn or corroded edge connector contacts must be replaced.  Cleaning or burnishing connector contacts is not a viable option to ensure a game&#039;s reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Poor connector contacts are the number one reason why System 80/80A/80B games do not function properly.  Poor or missing connector contacts have a cascading effect too.  The end results of bad connector contacts can be, but are not limited to:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*voltages which mysteriously disappear and reappear&lt;br /&gt;
*increased resistance &lt;br /&gt;
*specific switches not functioning&lt;br /&gt;
*lamps locking on&lt;br /&gt;
*lamps not turning on&lt;br /&gt;
*displays not properly functioning&lt;br /&gt;
*coils not turning on&lt;br /&gt;
*coils locking on&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU boards not booting, booting sporadically, or randomly resetting&lt;br /&gt;
*driver boards not functioning or functioning sporadically&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, it is very important that the connector contacts are shiny, have proper spring tension, and are properly crimped for the over all reliability of the game.  Random, flaky issues which happen either sporadically or all the time are attributed to poor connector contacts in nearly every case.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=450px heights=100px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 Connector (J6), The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80ConnectorBadPins.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;An example of pins in desperate need of rehab.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80ConnectorGoodPins.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ahhh...Much nicer after repinning.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SandedGottliebEdgeConnector.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Sanded (or possibly bare from the factory) card edge contacts will corrode and degrade the electrical connection.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File: GottliebEdgeConnectorRehab.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The two connector pads on the left have been lightly scratched with the fiberglass pencil. Even the small bit of oxidation or corrosion shown on the remaining pins is enough to prevent a connection.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A common (poor) practice is to sand the card edge contacts to the bare copper as shown at left. While this may alleviate issues in the short term, longer term the copper will oxidize and cause more problems. All copper oxidizes. Copper is beautiful on building rooftops when first installed but oxidizes to a light green patina over time. Card edge contacts will do the same thing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the card edge contacts aren&#039;t bright and shiny, they can be cleaned off with a pink rubber eraser or lightly scratched with a fiberglass pencil. This will remove oxidation and grime without harming or thinning the finger contacts. If the contacts are corroded (due to battery damage) or have divots in them, lightly sand them, then re-tin them with a thin coat of solder. Either suck the excess solder off with a solder sucker or when heated, wipe the solder off with a rag. Avoid heating the card edge contacts too much as they will detach from the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing (Repinning) System 80 Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
Replacing connectors in a pinball machine somehow adopted the term repinning. Repinning a System 80 connector housing isn&#039;t too bad overall.  On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 (1 being the easiest to do) compared to all other makes and platforms made, System 80 connector replacement is about a 3.  One benefit regarding the System 80 IDC housings is that they are reusable.  Below are the steps to remove the connector from its housing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*First, grasp the housing in one hand. .&lt;br /&gt;
*Next, use the Molex tool pictured below by sliding it behind the pin to release the &amp;quot;barb&amp;quot; holding the pin in.&lt;br /&gt;
*Finally, pull gently but firmly on the wire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Conversely, a small &amp;quot;pocket&amp;quot; flat blade screwdriver can be used to remove the Molex connector.  After pushing the connector tab down, pull the wire out and downward a bit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes the connector comes out, and sometimes the wire pops out of the connector.  If the latter, use a small jeweler&#039;s screwdriver to gently pry the very end of the connector against the rectangular opening in the connector housing. You&#039;re trying to get the IDC &amp;quot;ears&amp;quot; of the connector to clear the housing. Sometimes the connector will easily come right out. If it doesn&#039;t, use small needle nose pliers with serrated jaws, to grab the &amp;quot;ear&amp;quot; of the connector, and pull it out.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Molex11-03-0016.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A Molex Contact Extraction Tool, Molex part number 11-03-0016]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some system 80 connector housings are &amp;quot;double sided&amp;quot; edge connectors. All of the connector housings that are double sided are black from the factory (blue colored housings are typically Jamma connectors used as replacements, and do not apply to this section of this guide).  To remove pins from these connector housings, you need a pricey yet effective tool called a Molex contact extraction tool, (commonly referred to as a Molex extractor). The Molex part number for the extractor is 11-03-0016, and can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=11-03-0016&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= Great Plains Electronics] or other electronics vendors.  Slide the extractor behind the pin to release the &amp;quot;tang&amp;quot; that holds the pin in. Firmly grip the wire and pull the pin out of the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video of the repinning process can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hErTlsFOMw4&amp;amp;t=5s here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate Method of Replacing (Repinning) System 80 Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateRepin1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The repinning on a single sided connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateRepin2.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The repinning on a double sided connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80 (and most System 1) connectors do not have the slot for depressing the pin ear. Most guides (as in the previous section) recommend purchasing a somewhat pricey tool to insert into the connector and depress the ear. This procedure is tedious and takes a bit of practice. If you have a decently equipped shop which includes a drill press, repinning these connectors using the following steps might be easier for you. Using this procedure, you can expect to replace each pin in less then a minute. I repinned an entire A1-J4 / A3-J1 harness in about 40 mins.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The procedure is to drill out the depression ear and pull out the pin:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Install a 1/16&amp;quot; bit in your drill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Set up a jig by clamping a straight edge to your drill press table. Set the jig so the hole will be 1/4&amp;quot; from the edge of the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
* Drill through the plastic housing on the back/bottom side.&lt;br /&gt;
* When you feel resistance from the metal pin, gently continue to drill until you feel and hear it destroy the pin ear.&lt;br /&gt;
* Repeat for the remaining pins.&lt;br /&gt;
* Gently pull wire by hand and it will come out very easily. Pliers shouldn&#039;t be required.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The newly installed pins ears will correctly lock in place regardless of the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The CPU / Driver Board Interconnect Harness===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 harn2.JPG|300px|thumb|left|The A1-J4 / A3-J1 Interconnect Harness]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 harn1.JPG|300px|thumb|right|The A1-J4 / A3-J1 Interconnect Harness]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are 33 discrete signals which pass from the CPU board to the driver board via this connection.  Two of the connectors pass ground and +5v logic to the driver board [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness (two more can be added)].  The remaining signals are for lamp, solenoid, relay and sound control.  It is &#039;&#039;&#039;extremely important&#039;&#039;&#039; to have solid connectors installed in the CPU / driver board interconnect harness.  Without decent connections, lamps, coils, relays, and sound can either lock on or not turn on at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Adding Ground and 5V Connections to Interconnect Harness====&lt;br /&gt;
Yet one more power/ground update to make is to &amp;quot;double up&amp;quot; the 5VDC and ground connections between the MPU and the driver board. The OEM harness contains only one connection between the MPU and driver board for 5VDC and one connection for logic ground. This is an easy upgrade since spare connection positions are available in the connectors that lead to the correct edge contacts on each board.  Approximately 8 inches of wire and four bifurcated crimp on pins (bifurcated style, Molex 4366 series, Product Family KK, product ID: 08-03-0304 at [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=4366&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= Great Plains Electronics]) are needed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Crimp a pin to each end of each wire. The connectors at each end should face opposite directions. Doing this will avoid twisting the wire as you insert the pins into the connector housing. In the picture below, the red wire carries 5VDC, blue wire carries logic ground. These colors were chosen for illustrative purposes only. Any color wire will do, of course.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;MPU-to-Driver Board Harness Upgrade&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessUpgradeWires.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pins crimped to extra wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessSlots.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Spare pin positions in harness.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessUpgraded.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5VDC and ground upgraded.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Ground updates===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80/80A/80B Boards ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the Gottlieb® System 80 board set was designed, for whatever reason, the designers did not physically attach each board to a common ground plane via a conductive back panel, standoffs and screws as Bally and Williams did. Instead, Gottlieb® relied on connectors and wires between each board to create a common ground. A poor connection due to dirty/damaged/fatigued connector pins will sever the ground between system components resulting in all sorts of odd behavior.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this problem, it is important to examine each connector to ensure each pin is clean, and making solid contact with the card edge conductor. The ultimate (and recommended) insurance is to add an additional wire from each board&#039;s ground to a common ground point. Historically, the recommended location to join separate board grounds is at the power supply. That ground is then connected to the ground strip or transformer assembly in the cabinet bottom.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System80 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Recommended Board Ground Wire Locations&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80_PSU_Ground.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80/80A Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80bPowerSupplyGroundMod.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B 5V Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80BAuxiliaryPowerSupplyCardEdge.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80a cpu brd grd.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;MPU Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80ab drvr brd grd.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Driver Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80 sound added ground.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80 Sound Only Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sound Speech ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound and Speech Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sound Speech power sup ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound and Speech Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb piggyback sound ground add.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80A/80B Sound Only Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GottliebSoundBoardGroundMod.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Sound Board (edge connector)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80SoundBoardHeaderGrounds.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Sound Board (header connector)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Aux Board Ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chaser Lamp Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another design decision was to provide separate ground wires for groups of lamps and coils on the driver board. There are several variations used to tie the driver board lamp and solenoid discrete ground wires to the ground plane.  The most common method Gottlieb® used was passing the ground wires through a large, inline Molex connector. If a group of lamps and/or coils are not working, there is a significant probability that a ground is missing.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80GroundsTiedTogether.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Tying all board ground together at a single point, on a System 80 or 80A game.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80B_BoardGrounds_Added.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Using the 5VDC power supply heatsink as a tie point to add ground mods to a &amp;quot;non-foil&amp;quot; back panel game.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once all of the board grounds have been installed, tie them all together to a single point, as shown at left on a Gottlieb System 80 or 80A game. Here, one of the screws on the power supply is a handy attach point. Note that the coating on the cold plate at that screw point should be sanded bare, as discussed in step 9 of this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Updates_and_Repairs_for_the_System_80.2F80A_Power_Supply_Board procedure].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For 80B games with &amp;quot;non-foil&amp;quot; back panels, one method is to use the +5V power supply heatsink as a tie point. Run a lead from the heatsink to the lower right bolt in the backbox. This bolt will have the factory ground straps secured to it. Make sure to sand or use a Dremel to remove the anodized coating from the heatsink where the grounds will be connected. This implementation eases subsequent board removal as fewer &amp;quot;eyelets&amp;quot; are involved to remove a specific board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The other method, and a good alternative for 80B games with the &amp;quot;foil&amp;quot; back panel where the heat sink is isolated from the back panel with nylon dual sided washers, is to use wires long enough to tie each board to the lower right bolt in the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80GroundTiedToCabinetGround.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Connecting all the grounds to cabinet ground (green/yellow wire).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the grounds all tied together at the power supply, tie that ground to the ground strip in the cabinet bottom. In the picture at left, the wire joined to all other grounds at the power supply is tied to a cabinet ground point (in this case the speaker housing). Cabinet ground points generally have a green wire with yellow tracer attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80GroundStrap.jpg|left|thumb|300px|System 80 Cabinet Bottom Ground Strip]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The bottom board ground strap is where all grounds should come together for System 80 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Grounds Improvements for System 80A at Transformer Panel=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 80A Grounds Cabinet Bottom Ground Strip]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Grounds Alien Star After.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Alien Star)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® did secure the grounds correctly on one particular game.  As seen in the adjacent pic, the grounds on Alien Star were attached discretely on the transformer panel.  These ground lines did not pass through a Molex connector like games before or games after.  Why Gottlieb® did not continue this practice is unknown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80B====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80A / 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;The Games&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Bounty Hunter&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
After Alien Star, Gottlieb® either soldered wire leads directly to the male spade connector board on the transformer panel (games like Chicago Cubs), or used female spade connectors (games like The Games, Touchdown, and Ice Fever), and used square, inline 9-pin Molex connectors to connect to the wiring harness. These connections, if the pins in the connectors are in good shape, are solid and do not require upgrade or modification.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-touchdown-transformer-panel.jpg|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Touchdown)&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Grounds Cubs.jpg|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Chicago Cubs Triple Play)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;Tag Team Pinball&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Spring Break&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Ground connections used on System 80B games from Rock to Spring Break are the most unreliable style of ground connections Gottlieb® ever used.  These connections consist of two (sometimes three) small boards each with two gangs of 9-pin male connections. The boards are fastened to the left side of the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis.  One problem with this is that the 9-pin female connection becomes loose, and in turn, ground connections become intermittent.  Another problem is the male pins on the boards suffer from cracked solder connections.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One common symptom of poor ground connections is multiple solenoids not functioning.  If removing the 9-pin Molex plug from the ground board, rotating it 90 degrees, and reconnecting it causes non-working solenoids to function, the ground connections are bad. Whether or not this test proves that the ground connections are bad, it is highly recommended to improve the ground connections for future reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purpose of these changes is to remove one potentially failed connection out of the equation.  The grounds will then be secured directly to the transformer chassis via solderless eyelet crimp connectors.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System3 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].  Below are the steps to properly upgrade the grounds.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Gottlieb® System 80B Ground Upgrades (Tag Team Pinball to Spring Break)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb_sys80b_trans_ground_01.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The stock ground connections plugged into the ground connection boards on the left side of the transformer panel.  This pic is a view from the left side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 02.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Remove all connections from the transformer panel.  Then, unscrew the four 5/16&amp;quot; hex head screws which secure the transformer panel from the bottom of the cabinet.  Turn the transformer panel on its side.  This will allow better access to secure the ring terminals to the side of the chassis.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 03.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut all of the ground wires as close as possible to the 9-pin connection.  Remove the two boards with the 9-pin male wafer connections.  As can be seen in the pic, Gottlieb® did actually secure the discrete transformer panel grounds to the panel&#039;s chassis with a single, soldered eyelet connector.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 04.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All the ground wires are to have their insulation stripped back longer than usual - approximately 3/4&amp;quot;.  Solderless ring terminals are crimped onto the ground wires.  The connections used in this particular application are Motormite #85443.  Motormite brand does not have to be used.  This particular brand and part number are mentioned due to the difficulty in finding the correct connectors to use. Most common ring terminals have a #10 or larger screw eyelet, which will not work effectively, if the eyelets are fastened to the side of the transformer panel chassis.  The ring terminals shown here are made for #12-#10 gauge wire with an eyelet for a #8 screw.  &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 02.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The ground Molex plugs and connection boards which were formerly fastened to the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis. The four ground connector plugs (some games only use three total) were cut off from the incoming ground wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 06.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Keep wires which were common to one connector together (driver board ground wires, playfield ground wires, and backbox ground wires).  In doing this, future disassembly will be possible, should any of the individual wiring harnesses need attention or the playfield removed from the game.  The ground wires are then twisted together and crimped.  From experience, a maximum of 4 larger gauge wires can be crimped in one connection.  Lighter gauge wires can be paired with or without heavier gauge wires.  When doing this, the maximum effective grouping of wires increases slightly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 01.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The screws which were removed from the ground bus board should be reused to secure the eyelets to the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
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File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 03.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The transformer is fastened to the bottom of the cabinet with the ground upgrades in place.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
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File:Gtb sys80b trans ground last.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pay close attention when securing the transformer panel to the cabinet.  All four mounting screws typically have flat ground straps with an eyelet.  These eyelet connections *must* be secured to the transformer panel.  Otherwise, the earth grounds will not all be tied together anymore.  Two of these ground connections are circled in the pic.  There are two more located on the backside of the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although somewhat equally difficult to locate, an alternate to the Motormite # 85443 connectors are Tyco / AMP 408-2049-4 connectors. Again, any brand can be used, but make certain the eyelet hole is for a #8 screw (not a #10 or larger), and the crimp connector can accommodate #10 / #12 gauge wires (typically yellow insulation on crimp).&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Ground Improvements for System 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;Arena&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Bone Busters&amp;quot; =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ground connections used on System 80B games from Arena to Bone Busters are the not as bad as the previous design, however, they are still unreliable at times.  These connections consist of two small boards with three 10-pin .156&amp;quot; inline male header connections. The boards are fastened to the left side (or back side on newer games like Hot Shots) of the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis.  One problem with this is that the header pins get cracked solder joints, and in turn, ground connections become intermittent. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One common symptom of poor ground connections is multiple solenoids not functioning.  If removing the 10-pin Molex plug from the ground board, and reconnecting it at a different header causes non-working solenoids to function, the ground connections are bad. Whether or not this test proves that the ground connections are bad, it is highly recommended to improve the ground connections for future reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purpose of these changes is to remove one potentially failed connection out of the equation.  The grounds will then be secured directly to the transformer chassis via solderless eyelet crimp connectors.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the previous section, these ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System3 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].  Below are the steps to properly upgrade the grounds.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Gottlieb® System 80B Ground Upgrades (Arena to Bone Busters)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 01.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The stock ground connections plugged into the ground connection boards on the left side of the transformer panel.  This pic is a view from the left side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 02.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Remove all connections from the transformer panel.  Then, unscrew the four 5/16&amp;quot; hex head screws which secure the transformer panel from the bottom of the cabinet.  Turn the transformer panel on its side.  This will allow better access to secure the ring terminals to the side of the chassis.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 03.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut all of the ground wires as close as possible to the 10-pin housing.  Remove the two boards with the three .156&amp;quot; 10-pin male header connections.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 04.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All of the ground wires are to have their insulation stripped back longer than usual - approximately 3/4&amp;quot;.  Solderless ring terminals are crimped onto the ground wires.  The connections used in this particular application are Motormite #85443.  Motormite brand does not have to be used.  This particular brand and part number are mentioned due to the difficulty in finding the correct connectors to use. Most common ring terminals have a #10 or larger screw eyelet, which will not work effectively, if the eyelets are fastened to the side of the transformer panel chassis.  The ring terminals shown here are made for #12-#10 gauge wire with an eyelet for a #8 screw.  &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 05.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The ground Molex plugs and connection boards which were formerly fastened to the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis. The five ground connector plugs were cut off from the incoming ground wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 06.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Keep wires which were common to one connector together (driver board ground wires, playfield ground wires, and backbox ground wires).  In doing this, future disassembly will be possible, should any of the individual wiring harnesses need attention or the playfield removed from the game.  The ground wires are then twisted together and crimped.  From experience, a maximum of 4 larger gauge wires can be crimped in one connection.  Lighter gauge wires can be paired with or without heavier gauge wires.  When doing this, the maximum effective grouping of wires increases slightly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 07.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The screws which were removed from the ground bus board should be reused to secure the eyelets to the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
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File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 08.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The transformer is fastened to the bottom of the cabinet with the ground upgrades in place.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
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File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 09.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pay close attention when securing the transformer panel to the cabinet.  The four mounting screws may have flat ground straps with an eyelet.  These eyelet connections *must* be secured to the transformer panel.  Otherwise, the earth grounds will not all be tied together anymore.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although somewhat equally difficult to locate, an alternate to the Motormite # 85443 connectors are Tyco / AMP 408-2049-4 connectors. Again, any brand can be used, but make certain the eyelet hole is for a #8 screw (not a #10 or larger), and the crimp connector can accommodate #10 / #12 gauge wires (typically yellow insulation on crimp).&lt;br /&gt;
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===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing the Orange Filtering Capacitor====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AgedOrangeCap.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A worn out original 6800uf/25V Gottlieb® filter capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If your System 80 or early System 80A game still has the original, orange 12VDC filtering capacitor in the cabinet bottom, it should be replaced. It&#039;s 30+ years old, has served the game well for a long time, and deserves a rest. Replace it with a new capacitor, valued from 6800uf to 12,000uf and at least 25V. Don&#039;t forget to acquire the right sized bracket to secure the cap to the bottom board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A very nice replacement for this capacitor, specified at 12,000uf, can be found [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-67.asp here].&lt;br /&gt;
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This capacitor filters the rectified 12VDC which is supplied to the power supply board for regulation down to 5VDC which is used by the every board in the game, including the MPU. Solid 5VDC power is critical for the game to operate properly. Hence the need for a properly working cap.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Sporadic / Inconsistent / Missing Voltages====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 PS Cold Joints.jpg|300px|thumb|left|This header pin was removed from the board by wiggling it loose!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One problem with the System 80 power supply sporadic, inconsistent, or missing voltages.  The game may be fine one minute, while the next minute, it loses voltage(s) completely.  One of the main culprits for this is cracked header joints.  Between vibration and the heat dissipated by the heat sink, header joints have a fairly high failure rate on System 80 power supplies.  The fix is to disassemble the power supply (as seen in the next section), and replace the stock round header pins with square headers. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Updates and Repairs for the System 80/80A Power Supply Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80PSBurnedCR7.jpg|300px|thumb|right|If CR7 on the Gottlieb power supply looks like this, the board should be rehabbed immediately.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Power Supply board is a pretty tough bugger. Still, after years of steady operation, they do fail, and they require refurbishment / rebuild.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The test point values are silk screened on the System 80 power supply board. They are +5VDC, +8VDC, +42VDC, and +60VDC. Ground, or &amp;quot;common&amp;quot; is also labeled.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Given that the parts to refurbish the power supply are cheap and readily available, and that taking the power supply apart is a bit of a pain, a good strategy is to replace all failure prone parts, whether the parts have failed or not, to avoid disassembling the power supply more than once.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Mandatory parts list:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#.156 male header pins without friction lock, 9-pin, 7-pin, 6-pin, or break to size.&lt;br /&gt;
#500 ohm resistor cermet trimmer potentiometer. A quality sealed one like the one pictured is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
#3 inches of 18 gauge wire&lt;br /&gt;
#680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor (470, 510, 560, or 620 works also) replacement for R10, originally a 30 ohm 2W resistor and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;must be replaced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; if CR7 is replaced with a 1N4738 (below)&lt;br /&gt;
#1N4738 8.2V 1 watt zener diode (CR7, originally a 1N3445 8.2V 2W zener)&lt;br /&gt;
#12K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor (R3)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Optional parts list:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#1N4746 18V 1 watt zener diode (CR6, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#47uf, 100V axial capacitor (C2, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#LM723 voltage regulator and 14-pin socket (IC1, optional if the 5V section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#2N6057, 2N6059, or 2N6284 Darlington transistor (Q3, optional if the 5V section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#heat sink compound (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-3 mica insulator or heat sink gasket (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-3 transistor spacer (optional as required) Keystone 4616 or Mouser Electronics 534-4616&lt;br /&gt;
#2N5550 or 2N5551 transistor (Q2, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#470uf/100V axial capacitor (C1, optional if the 42v/60v section is operational, this cap is often the cause of the 1/4A HV fuse blowing)&lt;br /&gt;
#TIP31C TO-220 NPN transistor (Q1, optional if the 42v/60v section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 mica insulator (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 Passive Heatsink - Aavid Thermalloy 563002B00000G (only necessary if the existing heatsink is damaged or missing the PCB mounting tabs)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 Nylon Bushing Insulator (only necessary if missing or damaged)&lt;br /&gt;
#Green LEDs (optional...use to identify that the board has been rebuilt)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the 4 screws that fasten the PCB to the cold plate (heat sink).&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the 2 screws that fasten the back mounted transistor Q3 to the PCB and cold plate.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a solder removal tool to remove the solder from the legs of Q3 that extend through the PCB. This is the toughest part of the job. If the board had been really hacked, two irons and a friend may be needed to accomplish this.&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the cold plate and Q3 have been removed, set those parts to the side.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace parts on the PCB as recommended and advised by the particular failure.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the PCB, solder a 3&amp;quot; wire from the ground trace to the screw mount, as shown in the picture below.&lt;br /&gt;
#When replacing the original round header pins with new square header pins, the through holes may require slight enlargement using a pick as shown in the picture below. Alternatively, the holes can be drilled with a small bit from the solder side of the board. Pressing the pins into the through holes without enlarging them might cause the solder pad to pop off the board. Key pins must be removed prior to installation as the PCB has no holes at the key pin position.&lt;br /&gt;
#Recheck all of the work performed.&lt;br /&gt;
#Sand the black insulating coating from the top/right screw hole on the front of the cold plate, as shown in the picture below. The insulating coating is very tough. A drum sander attachment on a Dremel works very well for this.  To ensure enough has been sanded, use a meter to &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between screw holes. The screw hole will be used later to tie the ground from each PCB together.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Q3 (note that it will only install one way) onto the cold plate using the transistor spacer, mica insulator, and heat sink compound.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mate the two halves of the power supply together and reinstall the two screws which secure Q3.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the leads of Q3 to it&#039;s through-holes.&lt;br /&gt;
#To ensure continuity at each leg&#039;s solder joint, &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection between the left leg of Q3 and the top leg of R9.&lt;br /&gt;
#Also &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection between the right leg of Q3 and the bottom leg of R11.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the remaining 4 screws around the perimeter of the power supply board. &lt;br /&gt;
#Lastly, ensure there is NO continuity between Q3 and the cold plate, as shown in the picture below. This is an essential step to ensure proper operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=170px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;System 80/80A Power Supply Repair&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Parts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsRemoved.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front Side, Parts Removed and Board Cleaned Up&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsRemovedBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Back Side, Parts Removed&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:EnlargingHoles.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Enlarging Header Pin Holes&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsReplaced.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Replaced, Front Side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsReplacedBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Replaced and Ground Updated, Back Side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:R10ThermalStrainRelief.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Strain Relief for R10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80PSAllDone.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All Done&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Transistor-to-ColdPlateContinuityTest.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ensuring no continuity between Q3 and the cold plate&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once fully assembled, reinstall the power supply into the game. Connect ONLY J1 (the lower 9-pin connector) at this time. Power the game on, looking for the two LEDs to light. If they do not light, there will be rework to perform. Assuming that they do light, test each of the voltages that the power supply creates to ensure the correct power is being generated/regulated. Since the power is not &amp;quot;under load&amp;quot;, each of the voltages may read 10% or so high. While measuring the 5V test point, adjust the 5V trim pot to about 5.1VDC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it! Done.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: once the other boards are connected to the power supply, the 5V may sag some. Measure the 5V across the electrolytic cap just to the right of the MPU power connector. Using the 5V trim pot, adjust the 5V power to between 5.0 and 5.1VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Repairs for the System 80B Power Supply Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b psu.JPG|300px|thumb|left|System 80B +5 VDC Power Supply. The adjustment POT is at the top of the PCB.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Step one to improving power supply reliability is to replace the original 500 ohm 1 watt adjustment pot.  This procedure can be done easily without removing the large heat sink.  A replacement sealed pot is recommended, but not completely necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, remove all the old solder from the all of the .156&amp;quot; header pins, and reflow new solder onto the joints. The top header pins (J2) supply +5VDC to the majority of the associated circuit boards in the back box.  Provided that the power supply is delivering acceptable voltages in the +5VDC range, these two relatively simple repairs are the only things needed for this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
However, if you&#039;ve adjusted the pot as much as possible in the appropriate direction, and the power supply is still delivering voltages higher or lower than around +5VDC, it&#039;s probably time to look at replacing the LM338K voltage regulator.  While not a frequent occurrence, the voltage regulator will sometimes fail. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the voltages measured are less than 1VDC, the grounds for the power supply (located at the transformer panel) will more than likely need attention.  Once the grounds at the transformer panel are better secured, recheck the voltage at the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: When measuring the +5VDC provided by the power supply, first disconnect J2 on the power supply. Measure power at the J2 male headers first. Once within an acceptable range, turn power off and reconnect J2. Measure power across C1, the 100uf/10V capacitor that is next to J1 (power connector) on the MPU. The MPU may drag the +5VDC supply down a bit. If you find this to be the case, adjust the trim pot on the power supply until a steady +5VDC is seen at the MPU. Poor connections between the +5VDC power supply and the MPU board may also reduce the voltage measured at the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Optional Bling...Adding Power Indicating LED&#039;s to Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
=====CPU Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
How to add a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator for the Gottlieb System 80 Generation 1 CPU board (the D102 board). This will light up when + 5 volts are present on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes spaced about 3mm apart in the spot indicated just below power connector J1. This area has no traces to interfere with drilling.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install LED into board with flat side facing toward the power connector J1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the flat side&#039;s lead to the negative (ground) point shown in the picture and solder it.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will connect to one side of the 330 ohm resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the positive trace shown in the picture. You&#039;re done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is powered on, this LED will indicate that the CPU board is receiving +5 volts from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDholesfront.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Holes drilled on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDholesrear.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Holes drilled on rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Circled areas are where to drill the two holes for the LED. Any color of LED can be used, but red or green are preferred.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDwiring.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Wiring on solder side of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDfront.JPG|300px|thumb|right|LED installed on board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED. Note the location of the flat side of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDlitup.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Finished installation of LED]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed installation with LED lit up indicating the +5 volts is present on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator to the System 80 Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohm quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; holes spaced about 3mm apart in the board at the location shown in the pictures to the left of the electrolytic capacitor near chip Z1. There should be no traces at that area.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the red LED with the flat side facing the trace going to the negative side of the electrolytic capacitor. Bend the LED&#039;s flat side lead down to that trace and scrape away some of the green paint at the point you will be soldering it. Now solder that lead to the trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder one end of the 330 ohm resistor to the other lead of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will now get soldered to the trace that goes to the positive side of the electrolytic capacitor. Again, be sure to scrape some of the green paint off of the trace where the resistor lead will be soldered. You are done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is on, the LED will be lit indicating that the driver board is receiving +5 volts from the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LED_holesfront.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Drilled holes on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDholesrear.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Drilled holes on the rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Views of the holes drilled for the LED looking from the front and rear of the System 80 driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80LEDrear.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Wiring of the LED and resistor]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDflat.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Finished installation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED. Notice the location of the flat side of the LED. Any color of LED can be used, but red or green is prefered.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80LEDlitup.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Finished installation with LED lit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed installation showing the LED lit up indicating +5v power is present on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pop Bumper Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
How to add a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator for the Gottlieb System 80 Pop Bumper Driver Board. This will light up when + 5 volts are present on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#From the solder side, mark and drill four 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes spaced as shown in the spot indicated. &lt;br /&gt;
#Install LED into board with flat side facing toward the power connector J1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the flat side&#039;s lead to the negative (ground) point shown in the picture and solder it.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will connect to one side of the 330 ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the positive trace shown in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
#You&#039;re done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is powered on, this LED will indicate that the CPU board is receiving +5 volts from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px perrow=3&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-supplies.jpg|Supplies needed.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-1.jpg|Mark holes on solder side as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-2.jpg|Drill holes.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-3.jpg|Stuff parts shown. Note the polarity of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-4.jpg|Bend component legs as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-5.jpg|Solder all 3 connections as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat for each Pop Bumper Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; LED indicator for the MA-234 auxiliary lamp driver board used in Black Hole and Haunted House.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red or green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes about 3mm apart in the locations indicated in the pictures.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mount LED with the flat side toward the edge of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The lead from the LED&#039;s flat side will be soldered to pin 2 (ground) of connector A11P1. Be sure to slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over this lead so it does not accidently short to the other connector pins.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of the 330 ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 4 (+5 volts) of connector A11P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Whenever the machine is on, the LED should be lit, indicating the auxiliary lamp driver board is receiving power. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDfrontholes.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Drilled holes on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDrearholes.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Drilled holes on rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
View of the holes drilled for the LED as viewed from the front and rear of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDfront.JPG|300px|thumb|left|LED installed on board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDrear.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Resistor and LED wiring]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED on the rear of the board. Notice the location of the flat side of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:ALDLEDlitup.JPG|300px|thumb|left|LED is lit up]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Finished installation with LED lit up indicating presence of +5 volts power on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound/Speech Power Supply Board LED&#039;s=====&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound/Speech power supply board will get a total of four LED&#039;s! These are to indicate the presence of -12 volts, +12 volts, and +30 volts going out to the actual sound/speech board and also to indicate +24 volts coming in to the power supply board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*4 Red or green LED&#039;s&lt;br /&gt;
*2 Resistors, 1 k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 2.2k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 3.0 k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a total of eight 1/16&amp;quot; holes at the points shown in the pictures near connector A7P1. Lead spacing per LED is about 3mm. Be sure the LED&#039;s are not too close to each other to interfere with sitting flat against the board. The +12 and +30 volt LED&#039;s will mount with the flat side facing diagonally (7 o&#039;clock) toward the lower left board mounting hole.&lt;br /&gt;
#The -12 volt LED will have the lead of the round side (anode) soldered to the heavy ground trace of the board. You&#039;ll need to scrape some of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of this LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to the junction point of resistor R2 and the anode of zener diode CR2.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +24 volt LED will have the lead from the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the heavy ground trace on the board. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 2.2k resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 6 (+24 volts). Again, you&#039;ll need to scrape some of the green paint from the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +12 volt LED will have the lead from the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the heavy ground trace. You will need to scrape some of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 1 (+12 volts). You will need to scrape some of the green paint off of the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +30 volt LED will have the lead of the flat side (cathode) soldered to the heavy ground trace. You will need to scrape off some of the green paint from the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 3 k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 2 (+30 volts). You will need to scrape some of the green paint from the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#These LED&#039;s above are all optional. The board never originally came with anything to indicate presence of voltages. If you only want to install one, that&#039;s fine. I chose to install all four so I can see at a glance that all four voltages are present. You don&#039;t have to install all four if you don&#039;t want to.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture of the finished front of the board the LED&#039;s from top to bottom are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*-12v&lt;br /&gt;
*+24v&lt;br /&gt;
*+12v&lt;br /&gt;
*+30v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture of the wiring on the back (foil) side of the board, the resistors top to bottom are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1K&lt;br /&gt;
*2.2K&lt;br /&gt;
*1K&lt;br /&gt;
*3K &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDfrontholes.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Drilled holes for the LED&#039;s on the front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDrearholes.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Drilled holes for the LED&#039;s on the rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Views of the drilled holes for the LED&#039;s looking from the front and rear of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDlower.JPG|300px|thumb|left|+12 and +30 LED&#039;s installed on front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDupper.JPG|300px|thumb|right|-12 and +24 LED&#039;s installed on front]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All four LED&#039;s installed on the front of the board. Notice the location of the flat sides of all the LED&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLED_wiring.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Wiring of the resistors on the rear of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDfinished.JPG|300px|thumb|right|All four LED&#039;s installed on front of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistors and LED&#039;s on the rear of the board. All four LED&#039;s installed on front of board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLEDlitup.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Finished and all LED&#039;s lit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All four LED&#039;s installed and lit up indicating the presence of the four different voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 80/80A Power Supply Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 and System 80A power supply board already has LED&#039;s installed to indicate the +5 volts and +12 volts. This project will add an LED to indicate the presence of the +60 volts which is used to operate the score displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 LED, any color&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 10k, 2 watts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a total of four 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes at the points indicated between the foil traces in the pictures. Try to keep the holes in a straight line.The LED installs in the top two holes and with the flat (cathode) side facing downward toward the bottom end of the board. The resistor will install in the other remaining two holes which are the also the farthest spaced. Be sure to scrape the paint off of the foil traces at the points shown in the pictures.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_holes_front.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Holes drilled viewed from front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_holes_rear.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Holes drilled as viewed from rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Wiring it all up:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flat (cathode) side of the LED will be soldered to the top end of the 10k 2 watt resistor. Be sure to keep all component leads pressed down as close to the foil traces as possible to prevent shorting to the metal frame when the board is re-assembled to the metal frame. There is very little clearance between the board and the metal frame when everything is re-assembled. The lower end of the resistor will be soldered to the foil trace that goes to connector J3, pins 4 and 5 (ground). The round (anode) side of the LED will be soldered to the foil trace that goes to connector J3 pin 1 (the +60 volts). Put a short piece of heat shrink tubing or sleeving over that lead to prevent it from shorting to the trace it crosses over. Now carefully bend that lead of the LED down onto the correct foil trace as shown in the pictures and solder it. Be sure to label the new LED on the parts side of the board as &amp;quot;+60V&amp;quot;. This completes the wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_parts.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Resistor and LED mounted on board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_soldered.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Parts soldered to foil traces]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
The new LED should be lit at all times the machine is turned on. It indicates that +60 volts DC is present to operate the score displays. The other display voltage, +42 volts, is derived from the +60 volts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_finished.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Finished installation with +60v marking]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 80 First Generation &amp;quot;Sounds Only&amp;quot; Sound Board LED&#039;s=====&lt;br /&gt;
This board was used in early System 80 games such as Panthera. It operates on three power sources, -12 volts, +12 volts, and +5 volts. The +12 volts is obtained from the bottom panel in the machine. The +5 volts is obtained from the game&#039;s power supply board. The -12 volts is generated on this sounds only board by receiving ac power input on J1 pins 3 and 4. You can measure the -12 volts by connecting your volt meter across zener diode CR5 (1N4742A).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;MATERIALS NEEDED&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*2 LED&#039;s, any color&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 1k @ 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohm @ 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Short piece of small diameter heat shrink tubing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two pairs of holes 1/16&amp;quot; diameter and about 3mm apart at the locations as shown in the pictures. Be sure not to drill through any foil traces.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +12 volt LED will have the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the ground trace coming from pin 6 of connector J1. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of green paint off of the trace first in order to solder it. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k @ 1/4 watt resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 1 of connector J1 (the +12 volt source). Be sure to slide a short piece of heat shrink tubing over this end of the resistor before soldering since this lead will pass over a couple of traces. This will prevent the resistor lead from shorting to those traces and causing damage.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +5 volt LED will have the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the ground trace coming from pin 6 of connector J1. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of the green paint off of the trace first in order to solder it. The other end of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 330 ohm @ 1/4 watt resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 5 of connector J1 (the +5 volt source).&lt;br /&gt;
#When finished, be sure to note that the flat sides of both LED&#039;s will be facing each other on the front side of the board. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_holes_front.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Holes drilled in front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_holes_rear.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Holes drill in rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_LEDS.JPG|300px|thumb|left|LED&#039;s installed on board with flat sides facing each other]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_resistors.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Wiring on solder side of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====F2 Fuse Blows At Power Up on 80A games====&lt;br /&gt;
If the F2 fuse blows at power up, there is one overlooked problem that is good to check. This could also apply to 80B games, but a different fuse may blow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the transformer panel, there is a pair of cement resistors are soldered to a solder tab, which is screwed down to a small square plastic post. Check to make sure that this has not been moved to another screw hole in the metal of the transformer panel. Screwing this line to the metal of the transformer panel ties one of the AC lines to ground. Since this line is shorted/tied to ground, it also has the side effect of making the bridge rectifier test bad, since there is a tab tied to ground when there shouldn&#039;t be one. It is likely that the bridge rectifier will test good as soon as the solder tab is moved to the correct place.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:sys80-f2-fuse-blows-issue-2.jpg|Correct place to screw the solder tab (on the square plastic post)&lt;br /&gt;
File:sys80-f2-fuse-blows-issue-1.jpg|Incorrect place to screw the solder tab. This causes a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a large and varied number of reasons that a System 80 MPU will fail to boot. Unfortunately, as has been said before, &amp;quot;this is not a Bally world&amp;quot;. That is, unlike &amp;quot;classic&amp;quot; Bally and Stern MPUs the System 80 MPU provides absolutely no indication as to why it may have failed to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Debugging a non-booting MPU is somewhat of an art. A few basic steps are listed below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure your game is providing a solid 5VDC power source&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace the orange electrolytic cap in the cabinet bottom if still original&lt;br /&gt;
#Take the board to the bench&lt;br /&gt;
#Examine the board for Alkaline damage. If present, clean up&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure the reset section of the board is working. Pin 40 of the 6502 should begin &amp;quot;low&amp;quot;, then after about 1/2 second, transition to &amp;quot;high&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the clock signals at the 6502&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the IRQ signal at the 6502. Ensure it isn&#039;t &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the R/W (read/write) signal at the 6502. Again, ensure it isn&#039;t stuck&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the address and data lines to ensure that they are pulsing&lt;br /&gt;
#Feel each of the masked ROM chips at U2 and U3 as well as the 6532 RIOT chips at U4, U5, and U6. If the IC is too hot to touch, it has probably failed and should be replaced. Note that the 6532 RIOTs run hot normally. If one is noticeably hotter than the other, that may be an indication of failure.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test each of the 74XX chips in the switch matrix (Z11 - Z15) using this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit procedure].&lt;br /&gt;
#If the board has the original masked game ROM(s), replacement with the appropriately sized ROM is advised (generally a 2716).&lt;br /&gt;
#In the case of System 80B MPUs that employ a &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;, fractured solder joints where the &amp;quot;riser pins&amp;quot; meet the daughter card are often an issue. These joints can&#039;t be examined without removing the daughter card. And, removing the daughter card is not trivial. If flexing the daughter card causes the board to boot or to crash, fractured solder joints are a solid suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Power on &amp;quot;Thunk&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80 games exhibit a &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; upon power up. The manifestation of this is the unpredictable lighting of lamps, running of motors, and actuation of coils / relays.  The symptom is unpredictable in that swapping either the driver or the MPU board might change the behavior. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; can be suppressed via a process detailed [http://www.flippers.com/gott-system80.html#thunk here] by John Robertson.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Driver Reset Front.JPG|thumb|left|300px|The addition of an MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator on the driver board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Driver Reset Back.JPG|thumb|right|300px|The addition of an MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator on the driver board w/ traces cut and jumpers run.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As an alternative to John&#039;s approach, another method has been developed. The method employs the use of a reset generator tied to the &#039;&#039;&#039;CLR&#039;&#039;&#039; leg (pin 1) of the appropriate 74175 flip-flops (those that control devices that &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot;). The reset generator is added to the front of the driver board in the upper right hand corner. There is a &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot; in this location. Solder should be removed from the star via exposing a through hole. Next, two very small holes should be drilled into the board on either side of the via. Make certain not to drill through traces on the solder side of the board, and that neither hole touches the &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot;. Next, scrape the solder mask from the two thick traces on the solder side which pass closest to the star via. These traces terminate at capacitor C1 on the driver board.  The closest trace is ground and the other trace is +5v. Next, place a MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator through the driver board. The center leg (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) will pass through the star via, while the outer legs will go through the newly drilled holes. The flat side of the reset generator should be facing the components on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Next, bend the GND and 5V legs of the reset generator onto the appropriate traces where the masking was scraped.  Next, the traces on Z3, Z4, and Z5 should be cut between pin 1 and pin 16. This is the wide trace at the very top of the chip. Additionally, there is a thick trace to the right of pin 1 on Z4 which must be severed. After cutting this trace, pin 16 and the isolated trace must be tied together with a jumper.  This connects 5VDC to pin 16 of Z4. Now that pin 1 is isolated from 5VDC on chips Z3, Z4, and Z5, trace wire must be routed from the center leg (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) of the reset generator to pin 1 of each of these chips. Once this modification is completed, the coils associated with these chips will no longer be pulsed when the game is turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the modification which John Robertson lays out, it may not be necessary to isolate pin 1 of Z3, Z4, and Z5 for every game. However, isolating these 3 chips accommodates most System 80/A/B games that use lamp transistors to pre-drive coils / relays. The game over and tilt relays will still pulse briefly upon turning the game on but that behavior is generally acceptable. Isolating pin 1 of Z1 and tying pin 1 to the reset line of the reset generator will resolve this residual behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the trace wire shown in the pic on the right could have been routed more elegantly.  This was in part due to an afterthought in having Z3 tied to the reset generator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; is really just a minor irritation, most owners do not think that the resolution is worth the effort. However, on some games, the thunk can be very annoying by pulsing the ball release coil under the lower apron. The result is a ball being served into the shooter lane, before the MPU board even boots up. Most System 80B Genesis games run the &amp;quot;Reveal Motor&amp;quot; as a result of the &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ResetGeneratorPinExplanation.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Part number explanation and pin configuration for various reset generators.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Other reset generators may be used as long as the pinout of the legs is observed. Shown at left is a snippet of the datasheet that explains reset generator part numbers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateDethunkFront.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Using an MCP130-460DI/TO reset generator. Take care to drill the holes so that only one reset generator leg touches the star.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DethunkAlternateBack.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Jumpers are still connected to the &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot; but the new holes are drilled in different locations.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One alternate reset generator to use is the MCP130-460DI/TO which is also used in the section that discusses System 80 MPU alkaline corrosion abatement. The installation is a bit different as is shown in the adjacent pictures. The (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) signal is on the left leg of the reset generator while Vdd (5VDC) is in the center and Vss (Ground) is on the right leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Erratic Boot Issues with Later 80B Games (Hot Shots, Bad Girls, and Big House)====&lt;br /&gt;
Some erratic boot issues have been observed with the following games: Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Excalibur, however, the list of games may be more extensive.  The issues included are a locked on display with garbage characters shown, no display illuminating at all, sound board not booting (LED stuck on), locked on lamps, no controlled lamps, locked on coils, etc.  The source of the problem seems to stem from the fluorescent tube starter located in the backbox.  It is unknown why exactly this anomaly occurs.  Removal of the starter should resolve the booting issues.  Worst case scenario, remove the 110v panel fuse on the transformer panel use for the fluorescent light circuit.  Unfortunately, this is the only resolution known at this time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Battery Leakage and Corrosion====&lt;br /&gt;
Like most any other pinball machine manufactured, Gottlieb® uses batteries to supply power to the non-volatile RAM memory.  Certain game settings, high score thresholds (including high score to date), audit information, and bookkeeping information are all options which are saved when the game is powered off.  And unless some kind soul, who worked on your machine before, either removed the battery and mounted it remotely away from circuit boards, or just plain removed the battery, there will be some variety of a 3.6v Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) rechargeable battery soldered onto your CPU board.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, what&#039;s so bad about having a battery on the CPU board?  Well, nothing really, unless it&#039;s forgotten, and in most cases, it is.  While you let your pinball machine sit unplayed for weeks, months, or even years at a time, the battery remains perched on the circuit board like a ticking time bomb.  I&#039;m not saying the battery is going to blow up, although some replacement non-rechargeable batteries could overheat and / or explode if not correctly installed.  The battery is like a ticking time bomb, because it is a threat to the overall health of the electronic components, traces, and connectors attached to your CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now that I have your attention regarding the whole battery thing, let&#039;s talk about the battery, and what happens. . .&#039;&#039;&#039;WHEN GOOD BATTERIES GO BAD&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It&#039;s not that some batteries were born on the wrong side of the tracks or anything. Any good battery can go bad without much warning.  It takes time, but eventually you will find that your battery has crossed over to the &amp;quot;dark side&amp;quot;.  That particular time is typically when you turn your game on, the lights come on, and that&#039;s it.  The displays don&#039;t light up. The start up sounds don&#039;t resonant. And, the silver ball stays in its comfy little home.  Nada...nothing...no signs of anything resembling a fun game of pinball.  &#039;&#039;&#039;UH-OH!&#039;&#039;&#039; So what happened?  The pinball machine worked fine the last time you played it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Well, while you were out having a good time and enjoying life, the poor, aged, neglected battery decided to wreak havoc all over the reset section, clock section, or possibly more regions on your CPU board.  The CPU battery spewing its guts all over the place is akin to the batteries in the flashlight you haven&#039;t turned on since the last power outage a year or two ago.  You go to turn on the flashlight when you need it most, and find out there&#039;s something wrong.  So being the curious type, you open the flashlight&#039;s battery compartment only to find some kind of blue-green funk leaking all over, or the batteries now look like they need a shave.  The resolution to the flashlight scenario is pretty simple. Throw it away, and buy a new one. Your CPU board problem can be resolved the same way, except it will be a lot more costly, and is not recommended to just pitch it in the trash. If the battery damage to the CPU board is not overly extensive, attempt to repair it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage01.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Typical Battery Found on a System 80 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s unfortunate, but every battery has a life expectancy.  The only silver lining is that some of the Ni-Cad batteries installed on Gottlieb® CPU boards can last longer than others.  Probably the worst culprit of board destruction is the &#039;&#039;&#039;Data Sentry&#039;&#039;&#039; pack, and its associated knock-offs.  This battery comes in a black rectangular plastic package.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80A battery.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Typical Battery Found on a System 80A / 80B CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another battery pack style which looks very similar to the NiCad battery packs found in &amp;quot;old school&amp;quot; cordless phones.  It is actually three small NiCad cells wrapped separately in an orange poly material, which is wrapped in a outer white poly material.  These don&#039;t leak nearly as badly, but they still have the potential to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Replacement nicad.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Typical NiCad Battery Which was Replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The final common battery style is a what looks like an AA battery on steroids.  This style is a fraction longer and fatter than an AA battery&#039;s physical form, and has two soldered leads on either end.  If you find one of these, it means the battery was previously replaced.  The good news is that this battery is newer than the original. However, the same results of battery seepage can occur.  The only benefit of this type of battery is that it can be carefully cut (in most cases) from the board without removing the board from your game.  This is a plus if no battery damage has occurred.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage03.JPG|300px|thumb|left|NiCad Battery Damage to a System 80A CPU Board&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;(Note:  This is considered very mild damage!)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage04.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Damage from the battery may also occur on the back side of the board, especially on the edge connection fingers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So what happens if you don&#039;t heed the above warnings, and the battery is allowed to remain on the board?  Plain and simple - &#039;&#039;&#039;THE BATTERY WILL LEAK!&#039;&#039;&#039;  It&#039;s only a matter of time.  Equally, the path of destruction is uncertain.  Batteries don&#039;t just leak - they release caustic, alkaline fumes.  These fumes attack wherever there is copper, even tinned or soldered copper.  The end results are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*solder joints which become green or gray and crusty as opposed to a shiny silver&lt;br /&gt;
*connectors which are also now green / gray or potentially broken&lt;br /&gt;
*solder mask, the green covering the electronic traces, on the circuit board has either flaked off or is partially delaminating (lifting)&lt;br /&gt;
*insulated wire becomes less flexible and brittle&lt;br /&gt;
*sometimes the alkaline &amp;quot;cloud&amp;quot; in the game&#039;s backbox causes every board in the head to be affected.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electronic components, related solder joints, circuit board traces, connectors, and even insulated wire will become unreliable and/or fail.  In all cases, the affected components are less conductive.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If battery damage has occurred, the related parts must now be replaced.  Attempting to remove soldered through components on the circuit board is now even more of a task.  The green / gray dull solder does not transfer heat well.  Battery damaged solder does not flow like clean solder.  Also, crimped connectors are more difficult to remove from their housings, and have a tendency to break before they can be successfully pulled out.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After all the effected electronic components are removed, the board must be treated.  This process starts by sanding the traces and solder pads until shiny copper is exposed.  It is worth mentioning that a battery damaged board can be treated by bead blasting instead of sanding, however, most people do not have access to such a machine.  After the copper areas of the board have been either sanded or bead blasted, an acidic bath of 50% vinegar and 50% (preferably distilled) water is applied to the board.  A small brush like a toothbrush can be used to scrub the board&#039;s area. The purpose of introducing an acid to the effected area is to neutralize what the battery has left behind.   The liquid and fumes from the battery are actually a base, not an acid.  Next, rinse the area of the board with water.  Once the board is clean, isopropyl alcohol (the higher the alcohol percentage the better) is applied to the same area to rinse away the acid bath, and hopefully dissipate any remaining water.  Finally, the board is either blown dry or air dried.  This may be a given, but &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT ATTEMPT TO APPLY POWER TO THE BOARD IF IT IS STILL WET!&#039;&#039;&#039;  Most liquids are conductive to some extent. After the previous steps are performed, the task of installing the new components begins.  If any traces or solder pads were damaged, see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 Repairing Traces] portion of this Wiki guide on to to fix them.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The point I&#039;m trying to ultimately make is this...regardless of age, shape, or form, &#039;&#039;&#039;remove the battery from the CPU board&#039;&#039;&#039;, as soon as it realized that there is a battery on the board.  If not, the board can be damaged, nonfunctional, and become more difficult or even impossible to repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing that should be done to any System 80 MPU is remove the rechargeable NiCad battery from the MPU board. All batteries leak. They are like ticking bombs. It is merely a matter of when they will leak and possibly damage (sometimes irreplaceable) boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are at least &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;five&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; methods of relocating and/or replacing the battery on a System 80/80A/80B MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the battery completely without replacing it. The 5101 memory will not store information from power-on to power-on and therefore, high scores, replay levels, and credits will be lost.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80battery.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|Remote Battery]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Mount a remote battery pack that uses standard AA batteries (x3) to protect your board.  A blocking diode must be installed (1N4004, although a 1N4001 will work just as well) to prevent the game circuitry from attempting to charge the batteries. Install the blocking diode in series with the positive lead of the battery pack, with the band oriented toward the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MemorySuperCap.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|Here a 5.5V, 1F Super Cap is used to retain 5101 memory for up to 30 days]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the battery with a 1F 5.5V &amp;quot;SuperCap&amp;quot;. The capacitor will never leak, will charge during power-on cycles, and will retain 5101 memory for about 30 days. If you&#039;ve sanded traces as was done in the picture, use a non-conductive material to cover the trace under the cap to ensure that the negative side of the cap doesn&#039;t short a trace (such as clear nail polish, green overcoat pen, electrical tape, or fishpaper). Cut the tape in a circular shape and poke the capacitor leads through it so it can&#039;t fall off in the future. (Electric tape is notorious for slipping.)  An alternate solution would be get a piece of fishpaper insulator, cut that into a circle and poke holes in it for the capacitor leads.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 H Mem Cap.JPG|300px|left|thumb|Alternate method for installing a memory cap]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 H Mem Cap Back.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Tying the negative lead of the memory cap to the negative pad on the MPU board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The memory cap can also be installed in the two leftmost holes, where the Ni-Cad battery formerly resided.  The negative lead of the memory cap will then have to be tied to the negative (ground) through hole of the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remotely mount a replacement NiCad battery in a location that, should it leak, won&#039;t damage valuable circuit boards.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebCR2032.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|a CR2032 Lithium &amp;quot;Button Cell&amp;quot; Battery Installed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebBlockingDiode.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|A 1N4004 Blocking Diode Installed &amp;quot;inline&amp;quot; with the Positive Connection]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the original NiCad battery with a Lithium button cell CR2032 battery and holder. The holes for the original battery can be repurposed to connect the button cell holder and to add the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;necessary&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; blocking diode in the positive side of the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Using a Reset Generator for the CPU Reset Section ====&lt;br /&gt;
If you find that the battery has leaked, alkaline damage can be cleaned up, traces repaired, and new components installed with kits available from several sources, including Great Plains Electronics.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An alternative to replacing a great many of the components is to use the Dallis/Maxim DS1811 reset generator. The DS1811-10 has a typical trip point of 4.35VDC. You may also use the Microchip Technology equivalent, part number [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460DI%2FTO MCP130-460DI/TO], available from Great Plains Electronics. Remove all reset section components, clean up residual alkaline damage, add four jumpers, and install the reset generator as pictured below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After jumpers and the reset generator are added, make certain there is continuity between the three legs of the reset generator and the appropriate locations on the circuit board.  Below is a list of the reset generator legs and the board locations.  Pin 1 of the reset generator is the left leg, when the flat side of the unit is facing towards the user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 1 of reset generator to pin 2 of Z4&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 2 of reset generator to +5VDC line (lower leg of C2)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 3 of reset generator to ground (upper leg of C2)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Using the Dallas Maxim 1811 Reset Generator&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dallas_Maxim_Reset_scaled.JPG|A System 80 MPU with alkaline damage repaired/cleaned. Reset circuitry replaced with the much simpler Dallas Maxim 1811&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80 reset gen jumpers updated.png|Illustrated picture of components to remove, keep, and jumpers to add.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dallas_Maxim_Reset_scaled_with_markup.JPG|The same image, but with indications of jumper locations (yellow dots) and where to install the Dallas Maxim 1811, flat side facing the bottom of the board. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: View at full resolution&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 MCP120 Reset Gen.JPG|300px|left|thumb|MCP120 reset generator installed with 4.7K pullup resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a reset generator with an internal pullup resistor (MCP130 series) is not available, an MCP120 reset generator can be installed.  However, an external resistor must be installed between the reset and +5v.  The easiest location to install the resistor is between the through hole where the top leg of Q4 was, and through hole where the bottom leg of Q2 was.  In the adjacent image, an MCP120-460DI/TO is installed with the 4.7K 1/4 watt external pullup resistor highlighted.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing this type of reset generator, remove all of the components, and add all of the jumpers related to the installation of an MCP130-460DI/TO reset generator.  Adding the external pullup resistor is the only additional step.  Failure to add the pullup resistor will result in the reset signal not going high, and the board will not boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Slam Switch Modification ====&lt;br /&gt;
In order to test the CPU board on the test bench, a modification must be made to the CPU board to make the CPU think that the slam switch is closed. If the CPU thinks that the slam switch is not closed, the CPU will not complete the boot process, instead booting into a mode where the displays flicker all zeros at a very rapid rate (System 80 and 80A). See the image [[Gottlieb_System_80#Open_Slam_Switch | here]] for a depiction of what you&#039;ll see.  When the slam switch is open on a System 80B game, (the appropriate games where the slam switch is supposed to be closed), an &amp;quot;OPEN SLAM SWITCH&amp;quot; message will be shown on the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® designed the slam switch as a normally closed switch. That is, the switch must be closed for the machine to operate normally. When a brute kicks the machine, the slam switch will open from the inertial force on the weight attached to the switch, and the slam switch will open. Since the CPU is on the bench, we need a way to have this switch closed at all times to properly test the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, slam switches themselves fail. It&#039;s a good idea to implement this change as a preemptive fix for slam switch failures.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Slammod.png|300px|thumb|left|Slam Switch Mod]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The slam switch can effectively be permanently closed by making a small solder bridge across two traces to the right of Z26 (which is on the lower right side of the CPU board). To permanently close the switch, remove the solder mask by scraping with a sharp knife or screwdriver. Create the solder bridge between the two now bare traces. This change will connect pin 13 of Z26 to ground, permanently closing the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DefeatSlamSwitch.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Alternative Slam Switch Mod]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Z26RemovedSlamSwitch.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Z26 removed. One can easily see that the two methods of defeating the Slam switch are equivalent.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An alternate method of achieving the same results is to solder a clipped resistor leg across the bottom of capacitor (C30) and resistor (R20), both immediately to the left of Z26.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ni-WumpfSlamMod.jpeg|300px|thumb|left|Slam Switch Mod for Ni-Wumpf CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To permanently close the slam switch on a Ni-Wumpf CPU board, you need to connect pin A1J5-10 to ground on the board.  This picture shows how to do this from the back of the board by soldering a jumper wire.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that the last 4 Gottlieb® System 80B games were released with normally open slam switches.  Do not perform the slam switch modification on these games.  This includes the following games:&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Girls&lt;br /&gt;
*Big House&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Shots&lt;br /&gt;
*Bonebusters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
*Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Regardless of what platform the game is based on, there is only one slam switch used in a System 80/80A/80B game.  It is the weighted switch located on the coin door.  There is some confusion that the ball roll tilt and weighted tilt switch on the playfield are slam switches.  They are not.  These switches along with the pendulum tilt are all tilt switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== System 80B Daughter Board Solder Joints ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80B CPU.JPG|300px|thumb|left|A typical System 80B MPU Board, showing the location of the &amp;quot;daughter board&amp;quot;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BFracturedJointsDaughterCard.jpg|thumb|right|300px|A closeup of Gottlieb® System 80B Daughter Board Male Header Pins with fractured solder joints. This board was cleanly removed from the CPU with great care.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Games with System 80B MPUs feature a &amp;quot;daughter board&amp;quot; to accommodate the 2764 game ROM as shown in the picture on the left. The daughter board connects to the MPU board at the location occupied by U3 in System 80/80A MPUs, via a 24-pin male header. That connection is a two-sided solder joint that can fail. As can be seen in the picture at right, these same header pins connect to the daughter board via a single sided solder joint. Since the daughter board is cantilevered over both the former location of U2 and U3, pressing on this board over time commonly results in fractured solder joints (as seen, right) at the single sided joint and sometimes at the two-sided joint.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typical symptoms of fractured solder joints at this location are failure to boot, random resets, and random lockups. Sometimes pressing on the daughter board will &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the issue temporarily. This is a sure indication of cracked solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Correction of this issue is easier said than done. And, if you do not possess the tools, skills, and experience to desolder the daughter board, this task is best left to a professional pinball circuit board repair technician. Desoldering the 24 male header pins from the delicate solder pads without damaging the pads or pulling traces is non-trivial.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Continuity Chart of Pinouts for Damaged U2 / U3 Area=====&lt;br /&gt;
It is far too easy for inexperienced technicians to tear up the traces or eyelets at positions U2 and U3 when attempting to remove the daughter board from the System 80B MPU.  If the traces or through holes are damaged, clearly they must be repaired.  Nearly all of the signals which pass from U2 and U3 continue on to the 3 RIOTs at U4, U5, and U6 and also to the PROM 1 position. Below is a handy chart which can be used to ensure continuity between critical parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
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!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U3 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U4, U5 &amp;amp; U6 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
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=====System 80B Daughter Board Replacement Options=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U2U3AdapterGPE.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Replacement daughter board engineered by Great Plains Electronics. &#039;&#039;Image used with permission from Great Plains Electronics.&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Great Plains Electronics produced a better replacement daughter board. This board is designed to be installed in both the U2 and U3 sockets, eliminating the problem of board flex and cracked solder joints with the daughter board. Unfortunately, it is no longer available. If it needs to be installed on an MPU (especially where the U2/U3 chips are not socketed for easy removal), it is recommended to desolder the chips, fit the replacement board into quality machine pin sockets, then fit the entire assembly into the MPU board for soldering. The board is also designed with redundant traces for all but a few of the signals, as almost all signals are present at both the U2 and the U3 sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pinitech has another replacement option called [https://www.pinitech.com/products/gottlieb_piggydeux.php Piggy Deux], but at the time of writing, it is not currently available. This module fits into the TC1 test socket near top of the MPU, which saves a lot of trouble by not requiring removal or repair of the original daughter board. The 2764 EPROM chip simply needs to be removed from the original daughter board and installed into the Piggy Deux module.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====An Alternate to the Daughter Board on System 80B MPU Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Alt D-Board.jpg|thumb|left|300px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Raven No D-Board jecourie.jpg|thumb|right|300px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Raven)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Alt D-Board_Back.jpg|thumb|left|300px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 - Back Side (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Raven No D-Board back jecourie.jpg|thumb|right|300px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 - Back Side (Raven)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB_Sys80B_Alt_D-Board_Cut_Trace.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Trace cut on an 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ====&lt;br /&gt;
A great place to source power for your logic probe while diagnosing the board is across the filter capacitor in the vicinity of connector J1. Connect the black lead of your logic probe to the negative lead of the capacitor for ground. Connect the red lead of your logic probe to the positive lead of the capacitor for 5V. The red lead can also connect to E1, the vertically-aligned 5V jumper wire, below the 6502 chip. Take care to ensure that the clips don&#039;t short to adjacent components.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing ====&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board is much easier to work on if it is removed from the backbox and placed on the test bench. An AT-style PC power supply can be used to power the MPU board on the bench. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Obtain an old PC power supply. If you don&#039;t have an old computer laying around, head on off to the thrift store and pick one up. Remove the power supply from the case by unscrewing the appropriate screws. Be careful not to unscrew the power supply case itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PowerSupply.png|300px|thumb|left|Power Supply]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Clip one of the connectors from the power supply wire bundle and clearly mark on the power supply box the value of each of the colored wires from the power supply. Typically, the yellow wire is 12V, red is 5V, and the black is ground. Strip insulation from the end of the red wire and the black wire as the System 80 MPU requires only 5V and ground to boot. Use alligator clips to connect 5v and ground to the appropriate J1 connection. I use larger alligator clips to make the connection easier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MPUPower.png|300px|thumb|left|J1 Connector]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Mark connector J1 where the positive and negative (common) connection is for the five volts from the computer power supply. The ground connection is on the top of the connector, the 5V connection is on the bottom. The image shows A1J1 with the markings. I took the picture with the board still mounted in the machine. Connect the 5v supply with alligator clips to the positive connector on J1 and the black wire (ground) to the negative connector of J1.&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it! you&#039;re good to go!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====List of Acceptable TTL Chip Substitutes on a System 80 CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Several years ago, Ed from GPE replied to a System 80 chip substitution question on rec.games.pinball [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/msg/86f37cb479ece4c4 here] and later on Pinside [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-chip-replacement#post-4139713 here]. The info from those responses are summarized below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Most of the parts can be freely substituted.  But many cannot.  The clock oscillator circuit (Z3) is one example of a part that cannot be subbed.  Also, some IC&#039;s have hefty loads and cannot be subbed (some of the 7404&#039;s and a 7432).  The 7474 in question on this board can be freely subbed with a 74LS74 or a 74HCT74.  I went through all the standard logic devices on the Gottlieb System 80 MPU.  Based on loading and output characteristics, this is what I get as valid subs for the System 80 MPU.  Of course, substituting some of the parts will ripple through and allow others to be substituted as well - but this can get quite convoluted.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip Designation&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Substitute (Y/N)&lt;br /&gt;
!Acceptable Substitutes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z1 || 4528 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z2 || 7474 || Y || 74LS74 and 74HCT74&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z3&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(1)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || ? || Possibly 74LS04 and/or 74F04; See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z4 || 4081 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z7 || 74LS04 || Y || 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z8 || 7402 || Y || 74LS02 and 74HCT02&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z9 || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z10&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(2)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 74LS05 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z11&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z12&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z13&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z14&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z15 || 7432 || Y || 74F32 and 74S32&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z16&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(5)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z17 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z18 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z19 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z20 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z21 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z22 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z23 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z24 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z25 || 74154 || Y ||74LS154 and 74HCT154&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z26 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z27 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z28 || 74LS139 || Y ||74HCT139&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z29 || 7416 || Y ||7406&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z30 || 7416 || Y ||7406&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z31&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(6)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7408 || Y ||74LS08&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z32 || 7417 || Y ||7407&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z33 || 74154 || Y ||74LS154 and 74HCT154&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z34&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)(8)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || Y ||74LS04, see note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z35&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || Y ||74LS04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z36 || 4069 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(1)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z3 cannot use a 74HC04 or 74HCT04, since these have &amp;quot;high impedance inputs&amp;quot; and won&#039;t work properly in an oscillator circuit. A 74LS04 should work, and possibly 74F04, but the better candidate would be a 74LS04. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(2)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Untested, but it may be possible to use an 74LS00 or 74HCT00 at Z10 in place of 7405. However, this will defeat the ability to test the MPU using the [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=120-102 QuickScan80 tester].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z11 &amp;amp; Z12 only have to sink ~2mA, so they might be able to be replaced with 74LS04, but this might result in noisy switching.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z13 &amp;amp; Z14 are in the switch matrix. 74LS00 might a possible substitute, but substitutions can result in noisy switching, and isn&#039;t recommended here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(5)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: If Z18, 20, and 22 are 74175, do not substitute.  If Z18, 20, and 22 are 74LS175 or 74HCT175, acceptable subs are 74LS04 and 74HCT04.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(6)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z31 can use 74LS08. 74HCT08 can be used as well, but 74HCT08 is not a good board-to-board driver, and isn&#039;t the best option here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: 74HCT04 can be used at Z34 &amp;amp; Z35 as well as 74LS04, but 74HCT04 is not a good board-to-board driver, and isn&#039;t the best option here. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(8)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Had issues with a 74LS04 installed at Z34 in a Haunted House. The side effects were the lower playfield VUK would fire and partially lock on when the lower playfield 5-bank drop target would reset.  Also, the 5-bank drop target would continuously tried to reset when the lower playfield VUK switch was closed. The issue acted as if there was a switch matrix issue, but there wasn&#039;t.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing the quartz crystal with a TTL Oscillator====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Alkaline corrosion may damage the board in such a way that it&#039;s advantageous to replace the original quartz crystal oscillator with a TTL oscillator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_logic_sys80.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Clock section of the system 80 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:oscillator.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The original crystal, Z3, and a few resistors may be replaced with a 900 kHz TTL Oscillator that is packaged like this 16Mhz version.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 clock signal is produced by a 3.57Mhz crystal, a few resistors, and Z3 (a 7404). Z2 divides the clock by 4, resulting in a clock signal of approximately 900 KHz, which is provided at pin 9 of Z2.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you cannot find a 900 KHz TTL oscillator (I couldn’t) you can also use the 1MHz variant, and tune your pin up a little bit. ;-) Game play shouldn&#039;t be impacted, as long as the game doesn&#039;t have a timer related feature, like Timeline. Even games like Timeline will be minimally impacted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_system80_vorher.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The original clock section as found on every System 80, 80A and 80B MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_system80_nachher.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The clock section after installing a TTL oscillator.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To accomplish this mod, remove the following parts&lt;br /&gt;
*Y1 (Crystal)&lt;br /&gt;
*Z2 (TTL 7474)&lt;br /&gt;
*R3, R4 und R5 ( the three resistors above Z2). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Z3 is still needed for other functions. Leave it in place. Now place the oscillator in the Z2 position, with the ‘dot’ in the upper left corner (Pin 1). Because we need the clock signal at pin 9, jumper from pin 8 to pin 9 at the original Z2 position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Using a WDC 65C02 in a System 80/80A/80B MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
Western Design Center (WDC) has reproduced the 6502 in a CMOS version designated 65C02. It works perfectly in all System 80 MPUs with one modification. Pin 36 of the 65C02 must be pulled up to Vcc (5VDC) via a 3K (or 3.3K) pull-up resistor. Pin 36 (BE) is the &amp;quot;bus enable&amp;quot; input which allows external control of the 65C02 busses. Pin 36 is unused by original 6502s and not connected to anything on System 80 MPU boards. Simply tack soldering a 3 - 3.3K resistor between pin 36 and a 5VDC trace will do the trick.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game Resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games sometimes exhibit &amp;quot;resets&amp;quot;, especially when high power coils fire. Assuming you&#039;ve updated the power supply grounds and reflowed or replaced the header pins on the Power Supply, there are a few typical causes for System 80 resets.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 bad caps.JPG|140px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Filtering Capacitors]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#The 12VDC filter capacitor in the cabinet bottom which, if still original, should always be replaced. Originally, this was a 6800uf/25V capacitor. Replace with a 6800uf to 12,000uf/25V cap such as [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=RCT123M025V3550B&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat=| this one] from Great Plains Electronics. The filtered 12VDC is regulated down to 5VDC on the power supply board.  Note that some games have two of these capacitors (as shown). Note: purchase a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=VR3A&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= VR3A capacitor clamp] from Great Plains Electronics when replacing the large capacitor for a clean looking job.&lt;br /&gt;
#The bridge rectifier that originates the 12VDC&lt;br /&gt;
#Missing, broken, or failed coil diodes&lt;br /&gt;
#Poor 5VDC power connections between the power supply and the MPU. The female connector on the MPU connects 5VDC to the MPU via molex crimp-on pins and a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; edge connector pad. Ground is connected in the same way. But you&#039;ve done the ground mods, right?&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A / 80B Resets====&lt;br /&gt;
A failed or failing reset board can &#039;&#039;cause&#039;&#039; resets.  The reset board may cause problems all of the time, or just when the game is under stress, like multiball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To see if the reset board is the problem, disconnect it.  If disconnecting the reset board resolves the issue, there are two fixes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Replace the large caps (C3 and C4).  These have dried out over the years and screw up the timing of these boards.&lt;br /&gt;
* Leave the reset board disconnected&amp;amp;mdash;if someone will always be in the general vicinity of the game to turn it off should the CPU lock up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When first trying to get a System 80A or System 80B game to boot properly, it is best to disconnect the reset board until the game is working.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors C3 and C4 are both 470 uf @ 16 volts. C1 is a 47 uf @ 16 volts. Be careful when unsoldering these capacitors as the foil traces are very delicate. The connector pins also develop bad solder joints so it is wise to resolder it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Updating a dual game PROM MPU (1st generation) to a single game PROM configuration (2nd generation)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted earlier, the first five system 80 games used both sockets at PROM1 and PROM2, populating them with 512 byte masked ROMs. Should one of these ROMs fail, you may be able to find a replacement, but they are becoming more pricey, more difficult to find, and are still prone to failure as they age.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A more flexible solution would be to update the MPU to use a single 2716 UVEPROM at the PROM1 socket. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Modifications must be made to both the solder side and the component side of the board. See the pictures below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Component side modification:&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the trace that extends from the left of Z10 between pins 6 and 7. A Dremel with a &amp;quot;ball shaped&amp;quot; cutter bit works beautifully for this. In the second picture below, the cut has already been made. I&#039;ve filled the cut hole with black Sharpie! to better show the location of the cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder side modifications:&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the traces leading to PROM1 socket, pins 19 and 21. Again, the cuts have been highlighted with black Sharpie!&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 19, to the PROM2 socket, pin 21 (connects A10)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 21, to the PROM2 socket, pin 24 (connects +5V to Vpp)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 22, to the PROM2 socket, pin 18 (connects A9)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from Z10, pin 13 to the via just below and to the right of Z9 (as you view the back of the board)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Your MPU board is now configured for any System 80 game. All that remains is to acquire a 2716 EPROM containing the game&#039;s code. If you have the original ROM images, the DOS command to combine them is shown below. Modify as appropriate to match the file names you have.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b prom1.bin + prom2.bin combined.716&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU may also be used in a System 80A game if U2/U3 are updated, and in a System 80B game if considerably more mods are made which frankly, just aren&#039;t worth it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 1st Generation to 2nd Generation Board Updates&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DremelBallCutter.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Dremel Tool with &amp;quot;Ball Cutter&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Z10TraceCut.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut in trace extending Left from Z10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PROM2-to-PROM1JumpersAndTraceCuts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;PROM2-to-PROM1 Socket Cuts and Jumpers&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Z10-Pin13-to-ViaJumper.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper connecting Z10, pin 13 to a &amp;quot;via&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a 2732 at the PROM2 position in a System 80B MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
====...in games that &amp;quot;normally&amp;quot; use a 2716====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to use a 2732 at position PROM2 with an MPU jumpered to use a 2732 for a game that normally populates that position with a 2716. Simply &amp;quot;double-up&amp;quot; the 2716 ROM image, and burn it into a 2732.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS command to accomplish this is ... copy /b image.2716 + image.2716 image.2732&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====...using an MA-1133 or MA-774 MPU in games that REQUIRE a 2732====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80B games require 4K of code space at PROM 2, which dictates a 2732 EPROM. An MPU built to use a 2716 EPROM at PROM2 can be modified to work, as is discussed below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU schematics of game manuals, such as &amp;quot;Bad Girls&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Big House&amp;quot;, state that E3 is directly connected to AB15 (address bus 15).  However, there is no mention of the factory modification (outlined below) performed on CPU boards stamped MA-1133.  Equally, should the user have an MA-774 CPU board, (used in games starting with Chicago Cubs Triple Play and ending with Robo-War), this modification can be performed to use the board in the following games.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Excalibur&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Girls&lt;br /&gt;
*Big House&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Shots&lt;br /&gt;
*Bone Busters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
*Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PROM2 is actually located at the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot; on the PCB. The area on the board marked &amp;quot;PROM 2&amp;quot;, which has solder pads but no socket, is a legacy carried over from the first generation System 80 CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following information was taken from a service bulletin located in the back of the 1992 Gottlieb® parts catalog.  This modification makes AB15 available to PROM 2, allowing the use of a 2732 EPROM at this position. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This procedure can be used in reverse if you have an MA-1133 board and you need to use a 2716 at position PROM2.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#If jumper E4 is installed, remove it. You will find the top of the E4 jumper located immediately to the right of the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a jumper at E3. This connects the pad marked E3 to the dual pad marked E4.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, follow the trace from the pad marked E3 Southeast 1/8 inch, then South about 1/2 inch to a via. &lt;br /&gt;
#Find this via on the component side of the board. It will extend to the left to another via.&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the trace between the two vias.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a jumper from TC1, pin 35 to the right solder pad of the via which was just cut.&lt;br /&gt;
#All other jumpers should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80B PROM 2 2732 Update&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_sysS80b_2732_prom2_front.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;E4 removed, E3 installed, and trace cut below E3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB sysS80b 2732 prom2 back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper from TC1 pin 35 to E3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Alternate Method&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an easier and cleaner method that allows the use of a 2732 ROM at the PROM2 position. This method is also easier to revert back.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove jumpers E3 and E4 which are located to the right of the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM1&amp;quot;. &lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a jumper wire from TC1, pin 35, to either the upper pad marked E3 or the lower pad marked E4. These two pads are connected together on the component side of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#All other jumpers should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
#Leave all traces intact. No cuts!&lt;br /&gt;
#That&#039;s it! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80B PROM 2 2732 Update (Alternate Method)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sys80B Alt Jump2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Both jumpers E3 and E4 are removed.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sys80B Alt Jump.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper from TC1 pin 35 to either upper E3 pad or lower E4 pad.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 drvr pw.png|300px|thumb|left|The System 80A / 80B Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Driver board is responsible for all controlled lamps, relays, and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;all solenoids&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via a simple interface between A1J4 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.  Although the driver board went through some minor changes over the years, the same board can be adapted for all of the System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; total of 52 &#039;&#039;&#039;lamp circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the interface provides &amp;quot;device select&amp;quot; signals for each of the 74175s (Quad-D Flip-Flops) on the driver board, and 4 &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; of data that is loaded (or &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot;) into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives an MPS-A13 or MPS-U45 transistor, (NDS-U45 transistors were used in place of MPS-U45s in some cases). &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that there are some dedicated transistors, which control specific game relay coils across the System 80 / 80A platforms.  Relays such as the game over, tilt, and coin lockout relays are controlled by Q1, Q2, and Q3 respectively.  The tilt and game over relays use the same designation for the System 80B platform, however, the use of a coin lockout relay was abandoned by this time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_drvr_board_coin_ctrs.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Driver Board with Coin Counter Transistors Highlighted ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;solenoids circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the driver board uses signals directly from the CPU to enable transistors on the driver board which turn on up to 9 solenoids.  For solenoid control, the driver board uses MPS-U45, 2N3055, and 2N6043 transistors.  Starting and ending with the System 80 platform, (games from Spiderman to Haunted House), three transistors were reserved to drive optional mechanical coin counters. These mechanical coin counter solenoids and associated transistors are: solenoid 3 (Q54), 4 (Q55), and 7 (Q56). Starting with the System 80A platform, (Devil&#039;s Dare), these transistors were no longer reserved for coin counters, and were used for other functions. Equally, the 3 diodes associated with these 3 transistors were changed to 3 zero ohm jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;sound&#039;&#039;&#039; signals (S1, S2, S4, S8) also pass through the driver board at Z13, a 7404 Hex Inverter. See below for S16 and S32.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Repurposed Driver Board Circuits====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb under pf transistor.JPG‎|300px|thumb|left| A Typical Remote Transistor Mounted Under the Playfield]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since quite a few System 80 games employ more than 9 solenoids, and since the original driver board design will drive a maximum of 9 solenoids, Gottlieb® repurposed some lamp outputs to drive &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot; which drive additional solenoids.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Gtb ma1011 trans board.JPG‎|300px|thumb|left| A Typical Transistor Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once playfields became littered with numerous &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot;, Gottlieb® opted to merge some of these transistors into a transistor driver board.  The transistor driver board started to appear on Gottlieb® games nearly midway through the System 80B platform, with the game Victory.&lt;br /&gt;
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The sound S16 and S32 signals are also repurposed lamp outputs. For instance, Haunted House and Black Hole both repurpose L9 to S16. Robo-War repurposes lamp 4 to S16. Note that S16 is not consistently implemented across the System 80 family. Note also that references to the usage of S32 are difficult to find.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80 driver screws.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Nuts / Screws Which Secure the 2N3055s Collector to Drive Line]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Make certain to inspect and tighten the screws which secure the 2N3055 TO-3 transistors to the driver board.  Specifically, the screws / nuts as marked in the pic.  They tie the transistor cases (collector) to the respective solenoid drive lines.  If these cases are not secured, the transistors will not function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Remote Mounted Transistors==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:UnderPFTransistor.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Under Playfield Transistor, with Emitter, Base, and Collector Labeled]]System 80 games have nine dedicated solenoid circuits on the driver board. To overcome this limitation, Gottlieb® added remote, high current transistors, mounted to brackets under the playfield. A lamp drive transistor is generally used to &amp;quot;pre-drive&amp;quot; the larger solenoid drive transistor. However, there are instances where a solenoid drive transistor is used to pre-drive a remotely mounted transistor. In later games, Gottlieb® Premier began to add (up to) three transistors on PCBs. These PCBs were mounted behind the game&#039;s lamp insert panel or on the side wall of the lower cabinet. While other games, such as Monte Carlo, have a large metal bracket installed under the playfield with 6 transistors installed, and a common ground on the collector of the metal bracket.  With 80B games, the game&#039;s diagnostics will drive these transistors during solenoid test, otherwise, they are typically driven during lamp test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 80 games, under playfield transistors were originally 2N5875s or 2N5879s. The failure rate of the original transistors tends to be rather high. Thirty years is a long time for a transistor of that technology. Should one fail, it can be replaced with one of its beefier siblings, a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2N5880, 2N5883 or 2N5884. An MJ2955&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; can also be used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games used a mix of 2N5879 transistors and MJ2955 transistors to drive flash lamps and coils.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:RemoteTransistors.jpg|300px|thumb|left|An image/schematic/explanation (click)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A ground wire is always connected to the tip of the transistor (collector) and leads to ground. On System 80 games, this wire is green/yellow (Gottlieb® wire color code 54).  On 80B games, ground wires are plain white with no trace (Gottlieb® wire color code 9).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;emitter&amp;quot; should be connected to the lug of the coil that has the non-banded side of the diode facing it (black-blue-blue in this picture).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; should be connected to the drive wire from the driver board (brown-red-red in this picture).&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; Solenoids which use a remote mounted transistor cannot be enabled by temporarily grounding the pre-drive transistor&#039;s tab to ground. This test is typically performed to check the integrity of the wiring from the drive transistor to the solenoid.  This test however does not confirm if the drive transistor is good or not. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Remote Mounted Transistor Update=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Remote transistor circuitry.png|left|thumb|300px|Gottlieb® Remote Transistor Circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
During the run of Black Hole, Gottlieb® released a service bulletin recommending that the existing 10Kohm pullup resistor be changed to a 4.7Kohm resistor when changing from a 2N5875 to a 2N5879 or equivalent.  Affected Black Hole games were marked serial number 6271 to 9160.  However, there were several games prior to and after Black Hole, where a pullup resistor was never installed.  And, don&#039;t always bank on the playfields installed in a game being original to the cabinet&#039;s serial number.  Case in point is a recently acquired Black Hole where the main playfield had a factory pull up resistor for the ball release coil transistor, but the 3 coils on the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole#Pull_Up_Resistors_Added_to_Remote_Transistors_.28Centrally_Located.29_on_Lower_Playfield lower playfield which use remote transistors] did not have the pull resistors added.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Pullup circuitry.png|left|thumb|300px|Gottlieb® Remote Transistor Circuit w/ Pull Up Resistor Upgrade]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is highly recommended to add this resistor.  This upgrade will decrease the chances of particular solenoids, which use a remote mounted transistor, from locking on when the game is powered up. The 4.7K resistor is soldered to the base of the remote mounted transistor, and then tied to the 24vdc solenoid bus.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Power On &amp;quot;Thunk&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
Due to the driver board design, certain solenoids and / or relays can pulse briefly as soon as a game is turned on.  To rectify the issue, please refer to the [[#Power_on_.22Thunk.22|Power on Thunk]] section above.  This applies to potentially all System 80/80A/80B games, where the solenoid / relay signal passes through one of the 74175 chips on the driver board.  &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Correcting Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb&#039;s implementation to control solenoids was, at a top level, identical to every other game manufacturer. Power is present at the coil, sometimes routed through the &amp;quot;Game Over&amp;quot; relay. A path to ground is switched on by a transistor which is enabled by upstream TTL logic. For the System 80 platform, this TTL logic is located on the MPU board. Signals are conveyed from the MPU to the driver board via the A1J4-to-A3J1 wire harness. These signals directly switch a path to ground on for one of the 9 designed-in solenoid circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted above, to accommodate game implementations needing more than 9 solenoids, Gottlieb repurposed some of the lamp driver circuits, driving 2N5875 (generally) transistors either screwed to the bottom of the playfield, or located on dedicated transistor boards. &lt;br /&gt;
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Solenoid problems can be divided into two simple categories, solenoids that do not engage and solenoids that are &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot;. Correcting these two situations is discussed below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Solenoid Doesn&#039;t Turn On=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, note that not all solenoids are always tested by the built in solenoid diagnostics. The first example of this is the coin counter solenoids (numbered 3, 4, and 7). To avoid artificially incrementing the coin drop counters, these coils are not pulsed. Other coils may be pulsed during lamp test. This is most often the case with System 80B games, using repurposed lamp driver circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
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:&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Problem Determination Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the game turned on and a game started, use a DMM to measure for coil power at the coil lug (generally either 24 or 38VDC). Power should be present at both lugs of the coil. If present on the coil lug attached to the banded side of the diode and not present at the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode, then the coil winding or it&#039;s attachment to one of the coil lugs is open.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Next, test paths to ground for the coil. Attach a wire with clip leads to game ground. Any green wire with yellow stripe will work fine. First, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;BRIEFLY&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; touch the other end of the wire to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;non-banded&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; side of the coil lug. The coil should pull in. If it does not, then either the coil winding is open or the coil wire is not securely attached to the coil lug. Next, identify the driver board transistor that switches ground for the solenoid in question. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;BRIEFLY&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; touch the other end of the wire to the tab (MPS-U45 or 2N6043) or case (2N3055) of that transistor. The solenoid should pull in. If it does, this proves the path from the coil to the transistor, but doesn&#039;t prove anything about the transistor. If it doesn&#039;t pull in, then there is a break in continuity between the transistor and the coil. Likely suspects are the connector pins, the IDC connection of the wire to the connector, and the actual wire itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At this point in the process, we know that the coil has power, and the path to ground via the transistor is valid. The next step is to test the actual transistor. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing an MPS-U45 (or NDS-U45) or an MPS-A13 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for one of the flanking legs.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between 1.2 and 1.4 should be displayed for the other flanking leg.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing a 2N6043 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for each flanking leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TO-3Case2N3055.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Emitter, Base, and Collector parts of a TO-3 form transistor, like the 2N3055. Note that the emitter and the base pins are closer to one end of the TO-3 case.]]&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing a 2N3055 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the metal casing of the transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the legs in turn.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for one of the legs.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement of &amp;quot;null&amp;quot; (no reading) should be displayed for the other leg.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on the &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; lead of the transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the other lead of the transistor (the &amp;quot;emitter&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the case of the transistor (the &amp;quot;collector&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;ol start =4&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Test the output signal from the MPU at the driver board. This test completes the test of the driver board circuitry. If this test doesn&#039;t identify a problem, then the problem must lie upstream with the inter-board harness or on the MPU board itself. With a logic probe, and the game in solenoid test, probe the following points for solenoids 1 through 9. 1 - non-banded side of CR6, 2 - R53, 3 - non-banded side of CR2, 4 - non-banded side of CR4, 5 - R56, 6 - R59, 7 - non-banded side of CR4, 8 non-banded side of CR1, 9 - non-banded side of CR5. With the game in Solenoid test, each solenoid should be pulsed in order, with the pulse easily detectable with a logic probe on the appropriate spot. Note that the coin counter solenoids will not be pulsed in test, and games that don&#039;t use every solenoid won&#039;t pulse unused solenoid circuits. Consult the manual for solenoid numbering for a particular game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Test the output signal of the TTL circuitry on the MPU. Solenoids 1 through 9 are all enabled via signals from Z29 and Z30 on the MPU board. Both ICs are 7416s. Z29 pins 2, 4, 10, and 12 drive solenoids 1 through 4 respectively. Z30 pins 2, 4, 6, 10 and 12 drive solenoids 5, 6, 8, 9, and 7 respectively (note the order is not strictly ascending). If the output signal on the MPU is present, but the signal is not present on the driver board, then the problem is probably the inter-board connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Solenoid Locked On=====&lt;br /&gt;
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A solenoid (or flasher) that is &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot; is caused by coil power having a continuous path to ground. Remember, coil power is always present at the coil when a game is started and the game over relay is powered (for System 80/80A/80B games). 99.9% of the time, this continuous path to ground is caused by a shorted drive transistor; either an under-playfield transistor, a transistor on a transistor board, or a transistor on the driver board itself.&lt;br /&gt;
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Generally, a locked on coil will heat up, burn through the insulation on the coil windings, and cause direct shorts between windings. This effectively reduces the length of the wire and hence, the resistance. Once the resistance is reduced to less than 2 ohms or so, the continuous current through the transistor and the coil cause both to be irreparably damaged. For this reason, if you find a transistor shorted, check the associated coil. Likewise, if you find a coil shorted, or with significantly reduced resistance (ohms), check the associated transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
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Some solenoid driver circuits, like solenoid 8 that uses a 2N3055, are &amp;quot;pre-driven&amp;quot; by an MPS-U45 (or NDS-U45). Be sure to test the associated pre-driver transistor too.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Lamp problems are common with most any pinball machine, and Gottlieb® System 80/A/B games are no exception.&lt;br /&gt;
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For controlled and GI lamps, Gottlieb® System 80/A/B games use either a #44 or #47 lamp.  The choice of which lamp to use is the preference of the game owner.&lt;br /&gt;
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For games with flash lamps, a #67 bulb is used.&lt;br /&gt;
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It is highly recommended &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; to replace or remove lamps with the power to the game on.  There are primarily two reasons for this.&lt;br /&gt;
#Some lamp sockets must have their mounting brackets bent back to access the bulb for replacement.  In turn, the potential of inadvertently shorting one lamp socket to another is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
#Lamps are constructed of an equal balance of glass and conductive metal.  If a bulb slips out of one&#039;s grasp when trying to remove or install with the power on, there are many areas in the bottom of the cabinet, where the metal of the bulb can short across.  A short across other circuits could potentially lead to other unplanned or otherwise unnecessary repairs needed to perform.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So in short, change or remove bulbs with the game&#039;s power off, just to be safe.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All System 80 games have three separate lamp circuits, and some have a fourth.  The circuits are comprised of:&lt;br /&gt;
*General illumination for the backbox&lt;br /&gt;
*General illumination for the playfield&lt;br /&gt;
*Controlled lamps for primarily the playfield, although, there can be four controlled lamps located in the backbox (shoot again, high score game to date, tilt, and game over), depending on the era of the game.&lt;br /&gt;
*Auxiliary lamps used for effect, such as chaser lamps used around the backglass border of Mars God of War and Black Hole.  Auxiliary lamps are not used on all games.  Jump to the [[#Auxiliary_Lamp_Driver_Boards | Auxiliary Lamp Board section]] to see what games use auxiliary lamps.&lt;br /&gt;
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Below are several approaches used to determine the source of a lamp problem, and how it can be resolved.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
      &lt;br /&gt;
====Bad Bulbs====&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing when troubleshooting lamp problems, and this may seem blatantly obvious, but determine whether the lamp is good or not.  The bulk of all lamp problems are simply burned out light bulbs.  Always try a known good bulb as the solution first. Don&#039;t rely on the bulb being brand new either.  The ratio of brand new, bad bulbs is slim, but there is that chance a new bulb is not good.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Dying battery.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Making certain an old 9v battery is putting out an acceptable lower voltage]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Testing bulb.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Testing a 6v bulb with a dying 9v battery]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The bulbs used in a System 80/A/B game are powered by ~6 volts, (the exception is the bulbs powered for the lower [[#Replacing_Black_Hole_Lower_Playfield_Illumination_Lamps_with_.2344_Lamps | playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House]]).  A great way to quickly test a bulb is to use a dying 9v battery.  Don&#039;t use a fresh 9v battery, or you will shorten the life of the bulb.  Find a battery that is roughly putting out 7v - 8.25v.  An old battery from a smoke detector works pretty well.&lt;br /&gt;
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Place the tip of the bulb on one of the battery terminals, and cock the outer metal casing of the bulb to touch the other terminal.  Orientation of the bulb with regards to the positive and negative terminals does not make a difference in this case.  Do not hold the bulb across the battery terminals for very long.  Just long enough to determine if the bulb&#039;s filament is lighting or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may also use a known working socket to test bulbs in...but that requires the game to be on while testing...which always presents some risk and is not recommended.  However, if there is no other option but to use a known good socket for testing bulbs, the preferred method is to use a socket located in the backbox lamp insert panel.  This unfortunately does not pertain to 65% of the System 80B games, because a fluorescent lamp was used for backbox illumination for them.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Games that have not been played in a long time develop a film of corrosion between the lamp &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; and the lamp socket which prevents conductivity. Simply removing the lamp and scratching the nipple with something abrasive (like rubbing it on the lockdown bar receiver) may fix many &amp;quot;lamp out&amp;quot; problems. In some cases, a light socket cleaning stick (available from the Pinball Resource [http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html here]) may be useful for cleaning the lamp socket. Gottlieb® lamp sockets are comparatively beefy and do not fail often.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Lamp Power Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
Next, make certain there is power at the lamp socket.  The game will have to be turned on for the following procedures.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====General Illumination Lamp Power Issues=====&lt;br /&gt;
GI lamps are powered by ~6VAC.  When testing a GI lamp socket for power, each lead of the DMM (now set in AC mode) will be placed on the two leads of the lamp socket.  If there isn&#039;t power at the lamp socket, suspect a bad fuse first.  Keep in mind that the playfield GI and backbox GI for System 80, 80A, and a few 80B games (the first 3 80B games and the last 2), have two separate fuses located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet.  These are typically higher amperage rated fast-blo fuses. The backbox GI on a System 80 game is always on when the game is turned on.  If the backbox GI fuse is good, and no backbox lights are lit, the inline connection which feeds the GI could possibly be bad.  Unfortunately, this connection is not standard from game to game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80TiltRelayAnnotated.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Gottlieb® System 80 Tilt Relay with GI Lamps/Tilt Lamp Make-Break Switch Highlighted. This tilt relay is from a Gottlieb® Spiderman]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The playfield GI is always powered on too, except when the game is in tilt mode.  If the game was not tilted and /or the tilt switches are not stuck closed, check the switch stack on the tilt relay.  These switches can sometimes get bent or misaligned.  If the playfield GI fuse is good and the tilt relay switches are good, the inline connections may be suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
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If the fuse to a particular GI circuit is bad, and continues to blow every time a new fuse is installed, a short is probably causing the issue. A shorted lamp GI circuit is probably the worst and most difficult lamp related issue to resolve.  In most cases, the GI power lines are uninsulated wiring, which make them susceptible to shorted circuits.  First, determine if the GI short originates on the backbox lamp insert or on the playfield.  GI shorts on the playfield are typically more common than backbox lamp insert shorts.  Pop bumper lamps are generally not CPU controlled, and are included in the playfield GI string (some System 80B games are the exception, [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1975 RoboWar] being an example).  Also, depending on the game, star rollover lamps and kickout hole lamps are sometimes part of the playfield GI circuit.  Consult the game manual for these particulars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although it can be a pain and time consuming, the best approach is to remove all of the bulbs in the associated shorted GI string.  In removing all of the bulbs, we are trying to isolate whether the problem is a bad, defective bulb, or one of the GI power lines is shorting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Controlled Lamp Power Issues===== &lt;br /&gt;
Controlled lamps are powered by ~6VDC.  When testing a controlled lamp socket, the red lead of the DMM (now set in DC mode) will be placed on the lamp socket mounting bracket.  The bare wire soldered to the lamp socket&#039;s mounting bracket is the power bus not the ground bus, so be careful.  The black lead of the DMM will be placed on ground. If working under the playfield, the ground plate in the bottom of the cabinet is a good place to connect to ground.  If working in the backbox, find where one of the green wires with a yellow trace is screwed to the metalwork, and place the lead on it.  Depending on the game, System 80 side rails, lockdown bar assemblies, and other associated trim metalwork, except the coin door, were not grounded from the factory like Bally, Williams, and Stern.  Therefore, using any of these as a ground reference is not recommended.  Gottlieb® did start grounding the metalwork at the start of the System 80A platform.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there isn&#039;t any power at the lamp socket, suspect a bad fuse first.  The controlled lamp circuit has a separate fuse on the transformer board, and is normally a 5 amp slo-blo fuse.  If the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_fuses fuse tests fine], there is a separate set of switch leaves on the tilt relay, which pass the controlled lamp power to the playfield lamps.  Inspect and adjust these switches if necessary. If the controlled lamp fuse and the switches on the tilt relay both test good, there may be an issue with the source power connection to the rectified DC circuit on the game transformer board. Unfortunately, System 80/80A/80B used different connector designations for controlled lamp source power for different games. Consult the game manual / schematics to find the source of 6VDC on the transformer board power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the fuse for the controlled lamps is bad, and continues to blow after a new fuse is installed, suspect a bad controlled lamp bridge rectifier.  The lamp bridge rectifier is located on the transformer board.  Please see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier Testing a Bridge Rectifier] portion of the PinWiki guides. Before testing the bridge rectifier, try to isolate it as much as possible.  By isolating it, this will minimize the possibly skewed readings caused by attached devices (lamps and the power transformer).  Two key things to do would be to remove the lines which connect the bridge to the playfield and backbox lights, and remove the controlled lamp fuse. Keep in mind that a bridge rectifier can fail in such a way where it may not blow the controlled lamp fuse.  Although, a failed bridge blowing a fuse is a tad more common than not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of the above tests good, there may be a short on the controlled lamp bus line.  This is not a very common occurrence, but it can happen.  Inspect the underside of the playfield for any wires or brackets touching the controlled lamp bus line, which shouldn&#039;t be touching.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bad Lamp Sockets====&lt;br /&gt;
Third, determine if the lamp socket is good.  Some games have been through the wringer, and the sockets didn&#039;t hold up too well due to abuse, a damp environment, or other various reasons.  Start by turning the &#039;&#039;&#039;power to the game off&#039;&#039;&#039;.  If the socket has some corrosion, try using a lamp socket cleaning tool first.  If a lamp socket cleaning tool is not available, a small wire brush used for cleaning copper fittings, a rolled up piece of 220 grit sandpaper, or a Dremel tool with a small wire brush attachment can all be used.  After the socket has been cleaned, place the bulb in the socket for the following procedures.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If testing a &#039;&#039;&#039;GI lamp&#039;&#039;&#039; socket, use the dying 9v battery trick again. Remove the fuse of the particular GI circuit which the lamp socket being tested is located.  Connect the terminals of the 9v battery to the bulb socket with alligator clip leads.  Be careful not to short the alligator clips to each other at the battery&#039;s terminals.  Equally be very careful not to short the clip leads to an adjacent switch on the pinball machine, or anything else for that matter.   One clip will connect to one side of the socket, and the other lead will go to the other side of the socket.  &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT ALLOW THE BATTERY TO STAY CONNECTED VERY LONG&#039;&#039;&#039;.  Since this is a GI lamp circuit, other lamps in the string will be powered by the battery.  If the battery is connected to the string for too long, the battery will start to get hot.  The battery does not have enough power to light a string of bulbs for very long.  The lamp may only glow dimly, but that is enough to determine if the socket is good or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If testing a &#039;&#039;&#039;controlled lamp&#039;&#039;&#039; socket, remove all of the connector housings from the bottom of the driver board first (A3-J2/J3/J4).  Then remove the fuse for the controlled lamp circuit.  Clip one lead of the battery to the lamp socket mounting bracket and the other to the solder tab.  The orientation of the negative and positive leads of the battery terminals makes no difference.  Again, keep the battery connected just long enough to see if the lamp lights to determine whether the lamp socket is good or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp(s) Will Not Turn On=====&lt;br /&gt;
So, the bulb is good; the socket is good; there&#039;s power at the socket; and the lamp still won&#039;t light.  Well, this occurrence can only really happen if there is a controlled lamp involved.  If all three of the above things apply, it can only mean one thing - the bulb is not getting properly grounded, and will not turn on.  The source of this problem may be due to several different issues.  But, it is best to start at the bulb socket, and work backward towards the CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Determine if the connector and wiring from the output of the driver board to the lamp socket is good.  While the wires are usually solid, the single sided edge connectors are a frequent cause for loss of conductivity. Simply &amp;quot;buzzing&amp;quot; the connection from the lamp socket back to and onto the driver board may uncover the issue.  With the power off, check the continuity between the solder tab of the lamp socket and the collector (right leg) of the associated lamp transistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is continuity, it’s time to test the transistor. Transistors fail &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; (lamp never lights) and &amp;quot;shorted&amp;quot; (lamp is constantly on). A simple comparison of &amp;quot;diode check&amp;quot; readings between &amp;quot;same type&amp;quot; transistors on the driver board can identify failed transistors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing an &#039;&#039;&#039;MPS-A13&#039;&#039;&#039; transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to diode test&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;red&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead of your DMM on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing an &#039;&#039;&#039;MPS-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; transistor (or &#039;&#039;&#039;NDS-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;CEN-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; which are equivalents).&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to diode test&lt;br /&gt;
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;red&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead of your DMM on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingMPS-U45WithMPS-A13.jpg|300px|left|thumb|An NDS-U45 replaced by the less expensive MPS-A13. This replacement is advised ONLY if the transistor drives a single lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80/80A/80B architecture does not utilize a lamp matrix. Controlled lamps are driven by individual transistors on the driver board, exactly like Gottlieb® System 1 games and Bally/Stern 6800 games. Driver board operation is pretty simple. The CPU places a signal on Logical Device lines 1 through 4 (LD1...LD4) and &amp;quot;strobes&amp;quot; the appropriate 74175 device select pin to latch the LDx values into the 74175 Quad FlipFlop&#039;s outputs. These outputs then drive the associated transistor(s) on, providing a path to ground for the lamp. That&#039;s all there is to it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transistors on the driver board are a mix of 2N6043s, MPS-U45s (or NDS-U45s), 2N3055s, and MPS-A13s. 2N6043s drive coils. Generally, the MPS-U45 transistors drive coils, pre-drive coils via remote mounted transistors and 2N3055s, or drive more than one lamp. The 2N3055s drive coils (in some cases, not all 3 of these are used in a game). The MPS-A13s generally drive a single lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MPS-A13 transistors are still widely available and cheap. MPS-U45s are obsolete but may be replaced with CEN-U45 transistors [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=cen-u45&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= available from Great Plains Electronics] and Mouser.  A much cheaper MPS-A13 may sometimes be substituted for the less common and more expensive MPS-U45, as shown in the pic at left for Q22. Although this will work, you must ensure that the transistor is driving only a single lamp. This obviously limits the &amp;quot;portability&amp;quot; of the driver board. If Q22 were used to switch anything other than a single lamp on, it will be destroyed. Substitute with caution. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2N6043 transistors used on the driver board are still available but becoming pricey. 2N6043s can be replaced by a TIP-102.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; A nice convention Gottlieb® used with System 80 games is that lamp &amp;quot;n&amp;quot; is driven by transistor &amp;quot;n+1&amp;quot; on the driver board. This is always true.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the transistor tests fine, a gate on the 74175 may be bad, which is rare but does happen. Use a logic probe on the input and output of the associated lamp gate to check definitively.  Again, comparing the signal between different drive pins can help identify a failed driver circuit. 74175s can easily and reliably be tested using the procedure in the &amp;quot;General for all games&amp;quot; section, [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit here].  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If more than one controlled lamp is not lighting, check the game’s manual / schematics to see if the bulbs are related in some way. &lt;br /&gt;
*When four lamps are not lighting, it may appear that the 74175 which controls the lamp transistors is at fault. This can happen, but the more commonly related issue is that the device select signal for a particular 74175 is lost between the CPU and driver board.  This can be due to a bad connection at A1J4 or A3J1.  See the chart below for the lamp device select signal path. &lt;br /&gt;
*When a whole group of lamps fail to light, review the schematics to see if the lamp transistors share a common ground path. Again, poor connections at the driver board, or the path to ground (generally green with yellow tracer or solid white wire) on the bottom board ground strap may be the root cause.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the connections, associated 74175, and lamp transistors are all correct, the circuitry on the CPU board is probably at fault.  Again, using a logic probe to determine which component on the CPU board has failed is the best course of action.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Device Select&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;CPU Connector&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Driver Input&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Driver Quad Flip-Flop (74175)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Transistor #s&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Lamp #s&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS1 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-C&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-C&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q1-Q4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Game Over relay, Tilt relay, coin lockout, L3&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS2 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q5-Q8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L4-L7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS3 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-E&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-E&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q9-Q12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L8, sound 16, L10, L11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS4 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-D&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-D&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q13-Q16&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L12-L15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS5 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-H&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-H&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q17-Q20&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L16-L19&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS6 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-F&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-F&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q21-Q24&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L20-L23&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS7 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-K&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-K&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q33-Q36&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L24-L27&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS8 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-J&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-J&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q37-Q40&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L28-L31&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS9 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-M&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-M&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L32-L35&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS10 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-L&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-L&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L36-L39&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS11 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-N&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-N&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L40-L43&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS12 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-P&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-P&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z12*&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;Q45-Q48 &amp;amp; Q49-Q52&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L44-L47 &amp;amp; L48-L51 (inverse of L44-L47)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;*Z12 not only outputs four lamp signals like all the other 11 74175s, but it also outputs four inverted lamp signals.  These signals are typically used for lamps located on opposite sides of the playfield which alternate on / off between each other.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp(s) Will Not Turn Off=====&lt;br /&gt;
If a single lamp is involved, or only a handful of lamps with different lamp device select signals, suspect the lamps&#039; associated drive transistors.  If a group of four lamps will not turn off, and they are all controlled by the same 74175, suspect the associated 74175 or the device select for that 74175 (&amp;quot;DS&amp;quot; on the schematics). If numerous groups of four lamps will not turn off, suspect the associated 7404 on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
*Z17 for DS1-DS5 device select signals or,&lt;br /&gt;
*Z24 for DS6-DS11 device select signals or,&lt;br /&gt;
*Z26 for DS12-DS16 device select signals.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the lamps involved originate from more than one group of device select signals, suspect the 74154 at Z25 or, backing up one more step, the 6532 RIOT at U5.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamps===&lt;br /&gt;
Flash lamps are #67 powered by the 24VDC solenoid bus.  They are controlled like any of the coils that have a under-playfield transistor.  To step down 24V to a more lamp-friendly 13V, the power is routed through a single 4 ohm 7 watt resistor for powering paired flash lamps wired in parallel.  An 8 ohm 5 watt resistor is used for powering single flash lamps. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On early 80B games, the power resistors are mounted to a small bakelite board under the playfield (up to 4), and the transistors are mounted to a bracket (up to 6).  On later games, starting with Arena, new PCBs were introduced that had the transistor, power resistor, and 4.7K pullup resistor all on the same board (up to 3).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If lamps are locked on, or won&#039;t work, the remote mounted transistors associated with them have failed.  Generally, the pre-drive transistor on the driver board has also failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Under-playfield flash lamp transistors are 2N5879s or MJ2955s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Aux Board Headers.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Reflowed Header Pins on Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For issues with lamps controlled by the auxiliary lamp driver board, follow the troubleshooting section for controlled lamps [[Gottlieb_System_80#Controlled_Lamp_Issues | above]].  Additionally, make certain that +5vdc and ground are present on the auxiliary driver board.  If either are missing, the potential for cracked header connections is possible.  Remove the existing solder from the header connections, and resolder the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Unconventional Lamps====&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games added quite a few special lighting effects.  Gottlieb® never used software when hardware would do.  This is probably harkens back to their electromechanical days.  So, there are usually some creative, different ways used to control lamps.  For instance:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Monte Carlo and Spring Break have Auxiliary Lamp Driver boards where power to a bunch of #44 lamps is switched by a relay.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Genesis drives #67 lamps with an auxiliary power board.  Power to this board is controlled via a relay that turns itself to activate the &amp;quot;reveal&amp;quot;; this relay is activated by a lamp driver, but the relay will keep itself on until one revolution of the reveal gimmick is done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Spring Break has eight #44 lamps controlled by one relay; the relay is controlled with a lamp driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Diagnosing these is generally the same as other lamps, but first, understand the peculiar arrangement for the game in question.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Switch Matrix Operation ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb System 80 switch matrix is implemented via the 6532 RIOT (RAM, I/O, Timer) at U4, strobe ICs at Z11 and Z12 (7404), return ICs at Z13 and Z14 (7400), and DIP switch &amp;quot;read enables&amp;quot; at Z15. The switch matrix simply provides a TTL &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; pulse on a single switch matrix column, then listens for a &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; return on the switch rows. Closed switches complete the circuit and enable a switch matrix return. Switch returns are processed then the next column is strobed. The game software &amp;quot;debounces&amp;quot; all switches to accommodate less than electrically and mechanically perfect switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Common Switch Matrix Faults ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isolating Switch Problems to the MPU or the Game Wiring =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since Gottlieb uniquely used edge connectors instead of more common header pins, isolating switch matrix issues to either the MPU or to the game wiring is not quite as easy. However, &amp;quot;jumping&amp;quot; from a switch column to a switch row is possible using the same technique. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into switch test&lt;br /&gt;
*Using a short length of wire, short each column drive to each row return, one at a time&lt;br /&gt;
*A single switch closure should be shown as each connection is made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a single switch closure is shown for each and every connection made, then the MPU circuitry is probably undamaged, and the playfield wiring, switches, and diodes should be examined. If a switch closure isn&#039;t registered, or more than one switch closure is reported, then the MPU circuitry is damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== MPU Switch Matrix Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Blown Switch Matrix ICs ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebStackedSwitch.jpg|thumb|left|300px|The thin strip of &amp;quot;fish paper&amp;quot; physically isolating the flipper EOS switch and the &amp;quot;lane change&amp;quot; switch is all that prevents certain destruction of switch matric chips. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Russell McIntyre.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80SwitchMatrixICs.jpg|thumb|right|400px|Identifying the System 80 MPU switch matrix ICs. Z15 is just below Z11/Z12.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80MPUBlownZ13.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Diode testing Z13 uncovers a shorted IC caused by shorting HV to the switch matrix wiring.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The most prevalent reason for switch matrix failures is shorting high voltage (i.e. coil voltage) to the switch matrix. As always, it&#039;s inadvisable to work on the game with the power on. Sometimes, &amp;quot;fish paper&amp;quot; designed to isolate switch blades from higher voltage conductors becomes displaced, shorting high voltage to the switch matrix, and damaging some/all of the switch matrix ICs. Examples of such a switch are the kicking target under the upper playfield in Haunted House and the &amp;quot;lane change&amp;quot; stacked switch on the right flipper of games like Mars God of War, Rock, Genesis, Gold Wings, and Spring Break.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A quick check of Z11 through Z15 using the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit diode test] will reveal failed ICs easily. An example is pictured at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this same diode test on U4, comparing the results to U5 and U6, may help to identify a failed RIOT.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Alkaline Damaged Connectors ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Playfield switch wiring is connected to MPU edge connector J6, which is sometimes directly below, but at the very least in close proximity, of the OEM NiCad battery. These batteries frequently leak their corrosive contents onto the board, affecting nearby connectors, including the switch matrix connectors at J6 (playfield) and J5 (cabinet). Close examination of the friction pins in the connector as well as the copper traces at the edge connector may reveal alkaline corrosion impacting proper switch matrix operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Playfield Switch Matrix Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the switch matrix issue has been isolated to the playfield, follow the tips listed in the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#The_Switch_Matrix Switch Matrix Diagnosis] section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One additional item to note is that Gottlieb did not attach isolation diodes directly to switches. Instead, isolation diodes are collected on &amp;quot;diode boards&amp;quot; which are screwed to the playfield underside or the cabinet bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
The blue Futaba display glasses used by Gottlieb® System 1 and 80 machines are a fairly reliable, long-lasting display.  Although, they can and do still fail.  It&#039;s just a matter of diagnosing the symptoms of a failed display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Display problems can primarily be classified into the following categories:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Power problems&lt;br /&gt;
#Display glass failure&lt;br /&gt;
#Data problems&lt;br /&gt;
#Tired displays&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 displays.png‎|thumb|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A displays.png‎|thumb|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Power Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before even attempting to work on System 80/80A/80B displays, there are two caveats to heed.  First and foremost, the displays function due to the necessity of several voltages, including high voltage.  &#039;&#039;&#039;IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON HIGH VOLTAGE CIRCUITS, THEN DO NOT WORK ON THESE DISPLAYS!&#039;&#039;&#039;  High voltage can hurt or even kill you.  If you don&#039;t feel comfortable working around this type of scenario, then hire a professional to do the work.  Secondly, any time a display connector needs to be disconnected, &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT REMOVE ANY DISPLAY RELATED CONNECTOR WITH THE POWER ON!&#039;&#039;&#039;  This goes for the connectors located directly at the display, connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the CPU board, A2J3 on the power supply board, and A7J3 / A7P3 (early System 80 up to Mars God of War), A10J1 / A10P1 (when used), A12J4 / A12P4 (Black Hole and after), or A10J7 / A10P7 (when used) from the transformer.  Removing connectors with the power on can damage the display, the CPU board, and / or you.  Sorry to &amp;quot;yell&amp;quot;, but it is extremely important to stress the above two statements.  Now that this is out of the way, let&#039;s move on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As stated above, the displays need several sources of voltage to function properly. The display voltages used are broken down by the type of display: +60VDC and 5VAC with a positive 8VDC offset are used for the 6-digit displays; +42VDC, +5VDC logic (for the 7432 chip - Z1), and 3VAC with a positive 4VDC offset are used for the 4-digit status display. When using a 6 digit display with DI513 Dionics chips, +5VDC is necessary for RP1 and RP2, both 8.2K resistor networks. Likewise, 7 digit displays also have a 7432 chip on them, and +5VDC is needed for them too. If any of the above voltages are missing, the display will never light.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Prior to plugging in and turning the game on for the very first time, it is a good practice to check all of the fuse values located on the transformer board first. There is a 1/4 amp slo-blo fuse used for the display voltage, which is located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet.  With the game unplugged from the wall outlet, remove the fuse from its fuse holder.  When checking fuses, never &amp;quot;eyeball&amp;quot; a fuse.  Your eyes may tell you that the fuse is good, but your eyes can fool you.  Use a digital multi-meter (DMM) or a continuity tester to check fuses. Put each lead of DMM on opposite ends of the fuse.  A tone should be heard.  If not, the fuse is bad, and should be replaced with the same value.  Fuses are used to protect equipment, the surroundings, and you.  Installing fuse values with higher ratings is very dangerous. &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT USE A FUSE RATED AT A HIGHER RECOMMENDED VALUE!&#039;&#039;&#039;  If the existing fuse is blown, it may not necessarily mean there is a problem.  Fuses do get stressed, and sometimes just fail.  However, there is more than likely a problem somewhere in the display power train.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game still unplugged, the next course of action is to place connector A2J1 on the power supply.  A2P1 is the bottom connection on the power supply, and receives all voltages directly from the transformers and a single ground from the ground strip.  Once A2J1 is connected, remove any other connections from the power supply (A2J2 and A2J3).  All voltages should be tested before any boards or displays are connected to them.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_psu_A2J3_highli.JPG|left|thumb|300px|System 1 Power Supply with A2J3 highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At this point, plug the game in, and turn it on.  Using a DMM or volt meter, check all of the voltages at A2P3.  For the +60VDC (A2P3-1) and +42VDC (A2P3-3), any ground connection can be used as a reference. The +42VDC is derived from the +60VDC.  If there is +60VDC, but not +42VDC, The 18v CR6 zener diode or the R5 resistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the two high voltages test all right, it&#039;s time to check the offset voltages.  The offset voltages are +5VDC (A2P1-6) and +8VDC (A2P1-9).  Use any ground connection as a ground reference to test these voltages.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If displays are not lighting, but either the +42VDC is present on the display (status display) or the +60VDC is present on the 6 digit or 7 digit displays, check for the presence of AC voltage used to power the display filament.  Do not use ground as a reference when measuring these voltages, as they are AC.  Measurements must be taken from the send and return lines.  If the AC voltage is missing, check the in-line connection at A7J3 / A7P3 (early System 80 up to Mars God of War) or A12J4 / A12P4 (Black Hole and after).  Also, some games have more connectors which pass the AC voltages.  These additional connectors are A10J7 / A10P7 or A10J1 / A10P1. Check the voltages on the input and output of the connector to see if fatigued connectors are the source of the voltage loss.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all the display voltages are satisfactory, it is time to move onto the next step of visually inspecting the display boards for obvious defects.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====What is the DC Offset Voltage?=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ACSineWave.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Representation of AC voltage with and without a DC offset component. Note the red sine wave is shifted &amp;quot;up&amp;quot; by the DC component.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DCOffsetClip.jpg|right|thumb|300px|A snippet from a typical System 80 schematic showing &amp;quot;DC offset&amp;quot; voltages connected to the center tap of the transformer secondary where AC filament voltages originate.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Futaba displays as used in Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games require AC power that is &amp;quot;offset&amp;quot; by a specific DC voltage; 8VDC for the 6/7 digit displays, 5VDC for the 4-digit credit/match display. The DC component of the AC voltage raises the AC sine wave by that DC voltage. If the offset voltage is missing, inconsistent or wavy displays will result.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Glass Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Good display.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Display with a good display glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NippleGuard.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A cheap and easy way to protect your nipples]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The simplest and easiest problem to identify is display glass failure.  All of the 6 digit displays used by Gottlieb® System 80, and 7 digit displays used by System 80A games will have a black &amp;quot;blotch&amp;quot;, for lack of a better term, in the upper left and lower right corner of the glass.  The 4-digit status display typically has only one black blotch.  The evidence of a black blotch or blotches is good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bad sys1 display1.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Display with Broken Nipple on Back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
However, if there is a muted white blotch visible at the corners of the display, it means the display&#039;s &amp;quot;vacuum&amp;quot; has been compromised, either due to a cracked glass or broken nipple. If this is the case, the display glass can not be repaired and is useless.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A simple, cheap, and effective way to &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;protect the glass nipple&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; is to cut a ring of hose (garden hose was used in the picture at right), place it around the nipple, and then fill the ring with silicon caulk (preferred) or hot glue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Broken top filament1.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Display with Broken Top Filament. Note that this is the Dionics chipset version of the display.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The display filaments within the glass can also break.  The end result will be segments with missing sections or &amp;quot;hot spots&amp;quot; when the display is powered.  The &amp;quot;hot spots&amp;quot; are caused by the &amp;quot;dangling&amp;quot;, broken filament shorting to other good filaments.  If a display filament breaks, do not use the display as shorted displays can damage other game components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Example Display with Failed Filament&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilamentOFFAnnotated.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Another example of a broken filament. This one has broken and shorted to another part of the display.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilamentScoreOverall.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The same display, showing a dark line across the center where the filament has failed.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilament.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Closeup of same display.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Even though the glass itself is bad, the chips on the display board may still be good.  So don&#039;t necessarily discount the display as being all bad.  UDN6118A and 7432, (chip used on status display only), chips are getting more costly, and Dionics DI513s are very scarce.  Since the display board is single sided, removal of the chips is quite easy.  Plus, the display PCBs are no longer being made.  The display board and / or chips may come in handy some time in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====UDN6118 and Other Display Logic Chip Failures====&lt;br /&gt;
The majority of 4 and 6 digit displays utilize two UDN6118 &amp;quot;Vacuum Fluorescent Display Drivers&amp;quot;. These ICs do not fail often. However, when they do fail shorted, they can affect the performance of the rest of the display set.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingUDN6118AndUDN7180.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Test method for a UDN6118 or UDN7180 display driver. Colored dots represent DMM probe locations (red lead, black lead)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
UDN6118 driver ICs can be tested using a DMM. Click on the image at left for the procedure.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;A Blown UDN6118 Display Driver&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:UDN6118BlownTopSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Damage is hard to photograph, but the outline of the overheated chip core can be seen.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:UDN6118BlownBottomSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A much more visible image of the heat damage.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Credit Display Segment Locked On=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb4DigitGlassSegmentCLockedOn.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A 4 digit display with segment &amp;quot;c&amp;quot; locked on, caused by a failed 7432 on the board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Gottlieb 4 digit displays use two UDN6118s and a single 7432. The 7432 can fail in such a way as to cause segments to lock on, as shown in the picture at left showing segment &amp;quot;c&amp;quot; locked on. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Data Problems==== &lt;br /&gt;
When there are display issues, one first has to determine whether there is a problem with the display itself, the connectors involved, or the chips on the CPU board that control it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;NOTE: Do not connect or disconnect the display connectors or connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the MPU (right hand side) with the power on! Doing so WILL damage the MPU board display logic ICs.&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following applies to System 80 and 80A displays.  For information regarding the System 80B display board, scroll down to the end of this section.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebDisplaySegmentDigitOutAnnotated.jpg|340px|thumb|left|An excellent image to show both digit and segment problems. Note the red circles showing the same digit out on for players 1 and 3. Also note the yellow circles showing segment &amp;quot;g&amp;quot; out for players 1 and 2.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Issue Isolated to a Single Display&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem is only showing up one display, suspect that the connector at the display itself is problematic, or there is an issue on the display board.  Problems on the display board can consist of a bad solder joint, a broken display lead from the display glass, or faults with the driver chips on the board (Sprague UDN6118 or Dionics DI513, if an old System 1 display is used).  The exception is if only 4 displays and a status display are used, which is common to most System 80/80A games.  In this display configuration, if there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;segment issue&#039;&#039;&#039; with the status display, there may be an issue with the segment drive chip on the CPU board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80LockedHSegment.jpg|340px|thumb|left|An example of a display showing segment &amp;quot;h&amp;quot; locked on. The segment was locked on for both the player 3 and player 4 displays. This was caused by a failure of the 7404 at Z16. This picture was snapped right after pressing the diagnostic button on the coin door. The display should be blank.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Issue With Multiple Displays&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem shows up on two or more displays, suspect one of the two connectors on the CPU board (A1J2 or A1J3), one of the two connectors on the two displays (they are daisy-chained with an IDC connector), or the chips which control the display data on the CPU board.  If there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;digit issue&#039;&#039;&#039;, the issue will be present on &#039;&#039;&#039;player 1 and 3&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;player 2 and 4&#039;&#039;&#039; displays.  If there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;segment issue&#039;&#039;&#039;, the issue will be present on &#039;&#039;&#039;player 1 and 2&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;player 3 and 4&#039;&#039;&#039; displays, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;status display&#039;&#039;&#039;.  If more than 4 scoring displays are used, on games such as Pink Panther, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, etc., consult the game manual for display digit and segment mapping.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 displays.png‎|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A displays.png‎|550px|right|Gottlieb® System 80A Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The charts listed below, map out each signal to each specific display.  The first chart maps the display digit information, while the second and third charts map the display segment information.  This information only applies to games where 4 scoring displays and 1 status display are used, although digit group names have been added, if more displays are used.  All of the charts apply to System 80 and 80A, but not 80B.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Digit Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Digit Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Display(s)&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D16 (80A only) || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group F) || A1J3-16 || Z26-8 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D1 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-1 || Z17-4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D2 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-2 || Z17-6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D3 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-3 || Z17-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D4 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-4 || Z17-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D5 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-5 || Z17-8 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D6 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-6 || Z24-2 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D13 (80A only) || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group F) || A1J3-13 || Z26-4 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D7 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-7 || Z24-4 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D8 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-8 || Z24-6  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D9 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-9 || Z24-12 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D10 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-10 || Z24-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D11 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-11 || Z24-8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D12 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-12|| Z26-2 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D13 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-13 || Z26-4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D14 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-14 || Z26-6 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D15 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-15 || Z26-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D16 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-16 || Z26-8  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group A Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group A || A1J2-1 || Z19-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group A || A1J2-2 || Z19-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group A || A1J2-3 || Z19-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group A || A1J2-4 || Z19-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group A || A1J2-5 || Z19-9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group A || A1J2-6 || Z19-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group A || A1J2-7 || Z19-14&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group A || A1J2-8 || Z16-12 &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group B Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group B || A1J2-9 || Z21-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group B || A1J2-10 || Z21-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group B || A1J2-11 || Z21-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group B || A1J2-12 || Z21-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group B || A1J2-13 || Z21-9 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group B || A1J2-14 || Z21-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group B || A1J2-15 || Z21-14 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group B || A1J2-16 || Z16-10  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group C Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group C || A1J2-17 || Z23-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group C || A1J2-18 || Z23-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group C || A1J2-19 || Z23-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group C || A1J2-20 || Z23-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group C || A1J2-21 || Z23-9 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group C || A1J2-22 || Z23-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group C || A1J2-23 || Z23-14 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group C || A1J2-24 || Z17-2  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Display Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayDivotAnnotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A System 80B Display edge connector. One data conductor to the display was not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; across the connection due to a corrosion &amp;quot;divot&amp;quot;. This caused the entire display to remain blank. Reflowing the edge connector solder corrected the issue. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebEdgeConnectorDivots.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Another System 80B Display edge connector, this one with corrosion marks on it. The corrosion also caused the entire display to remain blank. Reflowing the edge connector solder corrected the issue. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80Bs displays are completely different how the digits and segments are decoded and driven.  Unlike System 80 and 80A, where the decoder chips are located on the CPU board, the System 80B display has a single segment (U3) and two digit decoder chips (U1 &amp;amp; U2) located on the display board itself.  Unfortunately, both of these chips (10941 &amp;amp; 10939 respectively) were a product of Rockwell International, and are not that prevalent.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has been observed that if any of the display data signals are missing between the CPU board and the 7417 inverters on the display board, the two displays will not illuminate at all.  If voltages on the display board are within spec, it may be advantageous to check all of the data signal edge connector pins on the CPU board and the display board. If both the edge connector and the female connectors look good, use a logic probe to ensure signals are getting to the input side of both 7417 (or later 74LS367) inverters on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that the System 80B jumpers, that replace the 7448s at Z19 and Z21 on System 80 and 80A boards, can be a source of discontinuity due to cracked solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has been observed that some of the earlier System 80B games are more prone to the display randomly being blank upon turning on the machine. Rock and Raven are the most common with this issue, however, the first three 80Bs, Chicago Cubs, Tag Team, and Bounty Hunter, are susceptible too. The best recourse is to repin both A1-J2 and A4-J1 / 1A4-J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rejuvenating Tired Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System1-80DisplayBrightUp.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Rejuvenating tired System 1/80 displays]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 displays, especially those that haven&#039;t been turned on for a long time, sometimes fade. These displays can be rejuvenated by applying voltage to the outside pins of the display glass. Note that voltage should be applied to the display glass pins, NOT the card edge pins. This process &amp;quot;burns&amp;quot; the impurities that accumulate on the filaments off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture at left, general illumination power (7VAC) from the lamp insert panel is being used to rejuvenate a display.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. Turn the game off&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. Remove the connector from the display&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. Connect jumper clips from a voltage source to each of the outside pins of the display glass. Note that the lower the voltage applied, the longer the display can tolerate this &amp;quot;rejuvenation&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is why some techs choose to use the lower GI AC voltage for this purpose.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. Power the game on for 1 minute.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Disconnect the jumper wires and reconnect the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. Power on to test the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7. If the display still isn&#039;t bright enough, repeat this process for 1 minute each time, until the display is satisfactorily bright.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that if the display filaments, which run across the display horizontally begin to glow orange (or worse, white), too much voltage is being applied or the display has been connected too long. This risks burning one or more of the display filaments out and ruining the display. A cautious, 1 minute at a time, process is warranted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note also that one particular System 80 tech (&amp;quot;System 80, not just a job, it&#039;s an adventure&amp;quot;) suggests that merely leaving the game powered on for 24 hours will accomplish the same rejuvenation.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Does Not Light====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:gottlieb-display-broken-legs.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Broken legs on display glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
If the glass of a 6 or 7-digit display does not light, but there are no white spots in the corners (white spots indicate bad glass), the outer-most legs on the glass may be broken. A magnifying glass may be necessary to inspect the pins since the gap in the breaks may be extremely small. The outer-most legs are responsible for supplying power to the glass, which is why the glass would not light in this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These legs may be broken especially on displays that have a green or blue plastic filter covering them. These legs can get broken after someone presses down on the plastic cover of the display when pushing the display onto the PCB supports mounted on the light board in the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To repair, line up the two broken halves of the leg with needle-nose pliers, heat, and solder. If the solder isn&#039;t sticking, lightly sand back some of the black tarnish with fine sandpaper or a fiberglass eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 Display Test 19 Never Starts====&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games provide a display test (number 19). The test &amp;quot;walks&amp;quot; all digits, from 0 to 9, through all displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A failed 6532 RIOT at U5 can cause the game to appear dead, as if awaiting an input. The display test will never commence.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Individual 6-digit Display Interferes With Other Displays==== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, a particular display can interfere with the operation of other 6-digit/4-digit displays no matter which game or player position it is plugged into. These symptoms can include:&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing digits to go missing on other displays&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing certain digits to dim significantly on other displays&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing certain digits to display garbage or non-numbers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of these symptoms is a bad R1 resistor. When powered off, the resistor will give the correct reading. However, the resistor may fail when power is applied. The R1 resistor (10k ohm, 1/2 Watt, 5% resistor) may need to be replaced if the above symptoms are present.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Individual 7-digit Display Causes Other Displays To Go Blank====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, a particular display can interfere with the operation of the other 7-digit/4-digit displays no matter which game or player position it is plugged into. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a particular display causes all other displays to go blank, the likely cause is a failure of the Z2 6118P chip, which drives the digits of the display. This chip can be replaced with the more commonly found UDN6118A chip. Also keep in mind that it&#039;s possible the 7448 and the other 6118P controlling the segments could be damaged as well, so be prepared for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===All Other Display Issues (Not Caused by Displays)===&lt;br /&gt;
There are several issues which appear to be display related, however, they ultimately are not.  In these instances, the displays are used instead as a visual identifier of a particular issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Open Slam Switch==== &lt;br /&gt;
If after turning a System 80 game on, and the scoring displays turn on immediately without a 5 second delay, there is a problem.  However, if the displays are showing all of the outer segments (all segments necessary to display a zero) lit, and &amp;quot;strobing&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;rolling&amp;quot; rapidly as simulated in the image below, this isn&#039;t a display problem. The cause of this problem is an open slam switch on the coin door. To address this issue, see the PinWiki section [[#Slam_Switch_Modification | Slam Switch Modification]].&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb 6digit slam scaled.gif|500px|thumb|left|Simulation of displays indicating an open slam switch. Note the &amp;quot;rolling&amp;quot; perimeter display segments.]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====All Displays Dim or at Half Brightness====&lt;br /&gt;
This applies to System 80/80A games with 6 or 7 digit displays. If all the displays appear dim or at about half brightness, check the 60v test point on the power supply. If it reads about 30-35v, then the dim display issue is caused by the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the power supply, Q2 regulates the 60v, so if that component has failed, or if there is a problem with the solder joints or pads on the back of the board, this can result in half the voltage for the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Carefully inspect the back of the power supply for cracked solder joints or through-hole pads that have popped off the PCB. Because Q2 has a large/heavy heat sink, the component tends to move around lot, which may cause these issues. If nothing is apparent with a visual inspection, test for continuity between Q2&#039;s legs and the traces on the PCB .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:gottlieb-sys80-psu-q2-pad-problem.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The pad for the center leg of Q2 has separated from the PCB and will need to be repaired]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display Conversion for 6-Digit Games (Converting to 7-Digit Displays)===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gottlieb6DigitTo7DigitConversion.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 6-Digit to 7-Digit Signal Mapping. Click to expand. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GottliebAmazingSpiderman7DigitScoringExample.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 Amazing Spiderman with player 1 converted to 7-Digit scoring. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The signal mapping diagram shown at left details the wiring changes necessary to replace a 19 pin 6-digit display connector with a 21 pin 7 digit display connector. Note that some signals and power must be picked up from the 4-digit credit/ball in play display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the wiring conversion has been completed, the appropriate game ROM that supports 7-digit scoring must be obtained and installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Before doing any kind of work, or blaming the sound board for not putting out sound, review the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting section] first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System80DIPSwitches.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Game Feature Selection DIP Switches and 1N4148 Switch Isolation Diodes. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image Courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
In particular for System 80 games, ensure that the DIP switches that enable sound are set correctly. And, ensure that the dip switch actually works. Games like Spiderman use one of the 32 MPU dip switches to enable background and scoring sounds. Games like Haunted House, Black Hole, etc use dipswitch 5 on the Sound and Speech board to enable background sound.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each DIP switch is isolated in the &amp;quot;DIP switch matrix&amp;quot; by a 1N4148 diode located directly below the switch. If one of these diodes fails open, then the switch closure will never be read by the MPU. If one of these diodes fails shorted, this may cause &amp;quot;phantom DIP switch closure(s)&amp;quot; in exactly the same way as a shorted playfield switch diode will cause phantom switch closures. Since System 80/80A diagnostics do not display DIP switch settings, this can be difficult to detect. Simple diode testing of each of the 32 1N4148 diodes is the best course of action.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Failed diodes in the &amp;quot;DIP switch matrix&amp;quot; can cause the switch(es) that enable sound features to be read incorrectly and therefore, sound behavior will be incorrect, such as lack of background sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video of one such failure that caused the background sounds in Black Hole to not work can be found [https://youtu.be/Q80TQ-W6XZ0 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The Long and Winding Road of the Sound Signals====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound signals follow very roundabout path before reaching their destination on the sound board.  Sounds S1, S2, S4, and S8 are originated on the MPU board by RIOT U6.  These 4 sound signals then pass through a 7404 inverter (Z27), pass through a 7408 2 input AND (Z31), and exit the MPU board via the A1J4 connection (MPU / driver board interconnect harness).  The signals enter the driver board via A3J1, pass through another 7404 inverter (Z13), and exit the driver board via A3J5.  Finally, they enter the sound board via the only connection on the sound board, A6J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If any of the sound signals are lost, this potentially happens due to poor edge connections, however, 7404s are known to fail too.  The best way to check for discontinuity is to use a DMM or ohmmeter to check the path from the exiting chip to the chip it enters on the following board.  Another method for checking for signal loss is a logic probe.  This method is not as simple though, because some generations of System 80s do not have a sound test.  Therefore, waiting for a particular signal to trigger can be tricky.  The benefit of using a logic probe is to determine if a particular signal is entering and exiting a specific chip, and if the signal transforms (if it is supposed to) like intended (ie. the 7404 will invert the signal from high to low or low to high).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some sound boards use a fifth sound signal, known as S16.  S16 is actually driven by an MPS-A13 like any other single lamp drive. S16 can follow a very convoluted path too, depending on the particular game.  For example, Haunted House uses S16.  It originates on the MPU with all of the other lamp signals, and becomes lamp drive Q10 on the driver board.  It exits the driver board via A3J2, passes through a inline connector, A10J4, passes through another inline connector, A12P4, and finally reaches the sound board at A6J1.  That is a lot of mileage for just 1 little sound signal!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games, starting with Rock, which use the dual 6502 processor sound boards, use Q5 as sound signal S16.  Please be aware that the System 80B documentation does not always notate this information regarding S16!!!  In this case, S16 follows a much simpler path.  It exits the driver board via A3J2 and goes directly to the sound board at A6J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, if appears that certain sound signals are missing or the wrong sounds are triggered, suspect a bad connection first.  Then, suspect a bad 7404 within the sound signal path.  Then, check all other potential problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that the 7404 U7 located on early System 80 sound boards (sound only) do fail also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 Sounds Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound Board (Sounds only)]]&lt;br /&gt;
This board, first used in Panthera, is problematic to fix. The main issue is that the board uses the long since obsolete 6503 processor (think of it as a short 6502) and a &amp;quot;masked ROM/RIOT&amp;quot; 6530. The 6530 was specifically programmed for Gottlieb sound boards. They are therefore, impossible to replace unless you can scavenge a working one from another sound board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only replacement option at this time, other than sourcing a used board, is Pascal Janin&#039;s reproduction board. This board is a bit pricey but is engineered quite well. The board can be found here: [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php?lg=en http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php?lg=en].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GottliebSoundsOnlyBoardCorrosion.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A leaky audio filter cap caused significant corrosion to several traces on this board.]][[Image:System80SoundsOnlyLeakyCap.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Audio filter cap removed, corrosion removed, traces tinned. The leaky cap can be seen in the top of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;This board operates on three different voltages: +5v, +12v, and -12v. The +5 volts comes in on J1 pin 5 from the machine&#039;s power supply board. The +12 volts comes in on J1 pin 1 from the machine&#039;s bottom panel. The -12 volts is generated on the sounds only board and it receives AC power input on J1 pins 3 and 4. You can measure the -12 volts by connecting your volt meter across zener diode CR5 (1N4742A).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The test button on this era sound board will only work if the two dipswitches are set in opposite positions on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted above, this board is tough to repair. If the 6530 is dead...you&#039;re SOL. A dead 6503 might be replaced. The other ICs on the board, like the LM380 amp and the 555 timer are still readily available. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A common issue with the board seems to be the leaky large capacitor on the board. Fortunately, this is easy to repair. Remove the old cap. Abate the corrosion as shown in the picture at right. Replace the cap. When this cap leaks, it can completely sever the sound signal path. Sounds might sound scratchy or incomplete too. The cap is easy to remove and replace. It&#039;s worth a shot.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Sound and Speech Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Different Revisions of the Sound and Speech Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=220px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Revisions of the Gottlieb Sound and Speech board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SoundAndSpeechBoard-1Modified.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS Back B20887-2.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Front Added Resistors.JPG|thumb|left|300px|B-20887-3 Sound and Speech Board with Resistors Highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the third revision sound and speech board, the resistors which were added to the solder side of the -1 and -2 boards were now incorporated in the board design. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound and Speech Board Operation=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board represents the high point in the System 80 family as far as sound generation is concerned. By combining sound and voice circuitry, the board is flexible enough to be used in several different games, with different voice calls, all generated via the Votrax SC-01 speech synthesizer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board is itself a single board computer, and should be debugged similar to any non-working MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board interfaces with the System 80 MPU via a 6 bit (S1, S2, ..., S32) wide &amp;quot;data bus&amp;quot;. The 6 interface bits form a binary code which define specific sounds (or speech) to play. This enables 63 separate sounds to be played. Each communication between the MPU and the Sound and Speech board is &amp;quot;stand alone&amp;quot;. That is, the system does not make use of successive sound commands to mean different things as the Bally Squawk and Talk implementation does. In practice, since S32 is never used, a maximum of 31 unique sounds are commanded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Four of the bits in the interface are controlled (grounded) by circuitry on the MPU (starting at the U6 RIOT) and a &amp;quot;pass through&amp;quot; 7404 inverter on the driver board (Z13). The remaining two bits are implemented via &amp;quot;lamp drive&amp;quot; transistors (Q10 for S16) on the driver board, and comparator circuitry on the S&amp;amp;S board (U24).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are fielded by the S&amp;amp;S board&#039;s 6532 RIOT which generates an interrupt to the 6502 processor. The 6502 reads the sound number commanded from the 6532 as it services the interrupt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The S&amp;amp;S board&#039;s 6502&#039;s program code, as well as sound data, is stored in two 2716 EPROMs, PROM 1 and PROM 2.  These EPROMs are typically labeled at the factory with the model number of the game they are for, and the suffixes /S1 &amp;amp; /S2. For example &amp;quot;668/S1&amp;quot; is the label on one of the Black Hole sound ROMs. Although the board can be strapped for two 2732 EPROMs, in practice, this was never done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board can field and queue sound commands at the same time as it is driving the sound and speech circuitry lanes. The board will never interrupt or prematurely terminate a sound being played. The board will also never reorganize the queue of sounds to be played. Each sound to be played will be played until it&#039;s conclusion. The 6502 knows when &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; have completed playing since it is solely in control of the sound lane. The 6502 knows when &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; calls have completed processing by the SC-01 via a non-maskable interrupt sent via the SC-01&#039;s ~A/R signal to the 6502&#039;s NMI pin. Timing to sequence speech phonemes together rapidly is critical, hence the use of the non-maskable interrupt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6502 creates &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; via one circuitry lane. It creates &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; through a second, separate circuitry lane. At the end of each lane, just prior to input to the main LM379S amplifier, sound and speech is summed. The relative volume of each lane can be tuned via 10K trim pots at the top of the board, R15 and R16.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound Lane&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Simple sounds (not voice) are created by the 6502 reading data from the sound ROMs and latching it into two 74LS75 data latches. The 74LS75s latch the data when selected via a 74LS02 (NOR gate) at U10 which NORs the R/W signal along with a device select signal from the 74LS138 at U4. the device select signal selects U7 and U8 simultaneously to latch data bus signals DB0 - DB7 all at once.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two 74LS75s provide the data to a 1408 D-to-A (digital to analog) converter at U20. In this way, 511 different digital codes can be converted to analog levels by the 1408. The analog output of the 1408 can be attenuated via a 10K &amp;quot;variable resistor&amp;quot; at R13. The signal is then amplified and inverted by an LM741 analog inverter (U22). The analog signal is then fed to the LM379S for final amplification. Note that the 1408 DAC is obsolete, but may be replaced by the more available DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Speech Lane&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Speech is ultimately created by the Votrax SC-01 voice chip. The SC-01 accepts &amp;quot;phoneme&amp;quot; codes and renders the analog speech output to the LM379S for final amplification. The phoneme codes are placed on the 6502 data bus and pass through a 74LS05 &amp;quot;level shifter&amp;quot; and inverter at U13. The codes are accepted by the SC-01 on pins 9 through 14 when pin 7 is strobed (the phoneme code is latched on the rising edge of the strobe). The &amp;quot;pitch&amp;quot; of the SC-01 voice is controlled by I1/I2 (pins 3 and 2). Frequency and timing control is achieved via MCK and MCR (pins 15 and 16, which are tied together). Frequency and timing are controlled via nearly identical circuitry as is used in the &amp;quot;sound&amp;quot; lane. Frequency and timing are referred to in the schematics as the &amp;quot;Voice Clock&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Reset signal&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset circuit is pretty simple. A 47uf/50V cap at C3 charges when power is applied. Once charged, the originating 5VDC power is twice inverted and cleaned up via a Schmitt Trigger at U1, and finally presented to the ~RESET signal (pin 40) of the 6502.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test button&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The test button, located on the upper left side of the S&amp;amp;S board, grounds pin 17 of the 6532 RIOT. After reading the RIOT data, the 6502 process then plays the appropriate test sound, which varies by game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SC-01 pinout&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin Number(s)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal Name&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal Purpose&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;1 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Vdd&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Input Voltage&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;2-3 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;I1, I2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Instantaneous pitch adjustment. Will change pitch of phoneme being spoken.&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;7 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;S&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Strobe to indicate a phoneme code is ready&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;8 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;~A/R&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Acknowledge receipt of phoneme strobe, indicate completion of phoneme processing&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;9-14 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;P5-P0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Phoneme number select (from fixed phoneme table)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;15-16 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;MCK/MCR&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;External Clock Signal (probably used to alter phoneme pronunciation via varying the clock)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;20-22 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;CB, AF, AO&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Audio Output&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;18 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Ground&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sounds and Speech board DIP switch settings=====&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound and Speech board has a bank of DIP switches. For at least Black Hole, the function of these switches is as follows:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-1 - Used in self-test only&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-2 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-3/4 - Attract mode speech frequency&lt;br /&gt;
** OFF/OFF - disabled&lt;br /&gt;
** ON/OFF - attract mode speech every 10 seconds&lt;br /&gt;
** OFF/ON - attract mode speech every 2 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
** ON/ON - attract mode speech every 4 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-5 - ON = background sound enabled, OFF = background sound disabled&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-6 - ON = all speech enabled, OFF = all speech disabled&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-7 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-8 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound &amp;quot;Locks Up&amp;quot; after certain switch closures=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SC-01.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The long since obsolete, pricey, and hard to find SC-01 speech chip. This one is an SC-01-A, said to be a little beefier.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This problem may be caused by a malfunctioning or missing SC-01 (or SC-01-A) speech chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Games such as Black Hole, Mars God of War, and Volcano utilized the SC-01 phoneme speech chip. These games &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;require&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; a working SC-01 to be present, not only for the speech portions of the sound, but for the sound to not &amp;quot;lock up&amp;quot; after the first time that a speech call is made. The CPU relies on an interrupt from the 6532 RIOT to restart sound command processing. That interrupt originates from an &amp;quot;all done&amp;quot; signal from the SC-01 speech chip (shown as ~A/R in the schematics, SC-01 pin 8). If the RIOT never receives an &amp;quot;all done&amp;quot; signal (at PB7) then it will not interrupt the processor and no further speech or sound will be created.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is also possible that the 2N2222 at Q3 has failed, not allowing the interrupt signal to reach the RIOT. Q3 inverts the ~A/R signal and conveys it to the RIOT as A/~R and also to the MPU as a non-maskable interrupt (U3 6502, pin 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Game background sound continues after game over=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This has been noticed in &amp;quot;Mars, God of War&amp;quot; predominately, but other System 80 games that use the Speech and Sound board may exhibit similar symptoms.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of the problem is MPU DIP switch 25. The switch MUST be ON, as noted in the manual. Even if the switch appears to be &amp;quot;on&amp;quot;, buzz across the switch solder pads on the back side of the board to ensure that the switch has not failed. Gottlieb sometimes used &amp;quot;rocker&amp;quot; switches, which seem to have a high failure rate.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An &amp;quot;On Target&amp;quot; newsletter from June, 1981 discusses something similar to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound is &amp;quot;garbled&amp;quot; or phonemes appear jumbled=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;!--&lt;br /&gt;
While this problem is uncommon, it&#039;s quite maddening to track down. However, since the board architecture is split between a &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; lane and a &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; lane, at least the number of suspect components can be narrowed. In at least one instance, &amp;quot;garbled&amp;quot; sound was caused by a failed 74LS75 latch. Just after the game was turned on, sounds were normal. But, as components on the speech and sound board would &amp;quot;heat up&amp;quot;, speech became garbled, progressively becoming worse, until the speech was completely unintelligible, and then completely missing. The 74LS75 latches may be replaced by 7475s. --&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using the MA-483 Sound Amp Board on a Sound and Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® MA-483 Piggyback Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS Power Mod.JPG||300px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® Sound and Speech Power Supply with components highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If using the MA-483 sound amp board on a Sound and Speech board, or if the sounds only System 80A sound board is going to be used, the factory Sound and Speech power supply cannot be used without modification.  The reason is because the original LM379S amp is powered by 30vdc, and the TDA2002 amp on the MA-483 can only withstand 16VDC. If a TDA2002 is powered by 30VDC, it would be destroyed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The modification is quite simple, and is done by replacing only two components (R1 and CR1). R1 is 430 ohm 1/2 watt and CR1 is 1N4751A 30v 1 watt zener diode.  R1 should be replaced with a 1.5Kohm 1/2 watt resistor and CR1 should be replaced with 1N4746A 18V 1 watt zener diode.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing the Obsolete LM379S Amplifier with a Modern Amplifier=====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;This information originally published by J. &amp;quot;kirb&amp;quot; Kirby. Additional pictures and some editing provided by Chris Hibler. Used with permission.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Gottlieb System 80 Audio Amp Replacment...why?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80&amp;amp;a s&amp;amp;s.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board as used on Mars, God of War, Black Hole, Haunted House, Volcano, and some video games]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb® Sound and Speech board uses an LM379 or LM379s audio amp in the final amplification section. This amp became hard to find around 1983. Gottlieb® provided an alternative for this amp (see prior section) and discontinued using the Speech and Sound board further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Their solution was to buy a piggyback board from Gottlieb® that used an LM2002 or a TDA2002 amp. But the LM2002 or TDA2002 amps require 16VDC to operate (instead of the 30VDC used by the LM379). This necessitated a change to the sound board power supply. There were many components to replace or remove, not to mention that you would have to make the piggyback board yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SOLUTION? Find a newer amp that required fewer components. A replacment amp can be put together using only the following parts which can be easily sourced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*LM1875T Audio Amp&lt;br /&gt;
*14 pin DIP socket&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat sink&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat sink compound&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you&#039;ve sourced these parts, a replacement amp is easy to construct and only requires removal of the old LM379 amp and addition of one jumper (to provide 12VDC, covered later).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let&#039;s start with the basics. System 80 games used 4 different sound boards. This amp replacement applies only to the Sound and Speech board used in Mars: God of War, Black Hole (domestic version), Haunted House, Volcano, Devil&#039;s Dare, Caveman, Rocky, Q*bert&#039;s Quest, Super Orbit, Royal Flush Deluxe (early production), Amazon Hunt (early production), and video games like Q*bert.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;LM379 Audio Amp Testing&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;	&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First of all, is your amp really bad? Basic tests to identify a failed amp...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With the game on, turn the volume pot up as high as it will go. Do you hear a hum? This is normal and is an indicator that your amp is working.&lt;br /&gt;
*Check the voltages at the sound board. 30VDC is required to power the amp. Verify that this is working correctly or your amp won&#039;t work at all.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure the speakers are connected and working right. You can test speakers using a &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; size battery. Briefly connect the battery across the speaker and you should see the speaker&#039;s cone push out. Do this for only a second or two...speakers don&#039;t like DC voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure the volume adjustment pot is connected correctly and working properly. A dirty pot will make sounds junky, but they usually don&#039;t completely fail. You can &amp;quot;twizzle&amp;quot; the pot to remove oxidation that may have formed on the internal conductors.&lt;br /&gt;
*Headphones can be used to see if the sounds are getting to the amp. Connect one of the headphone conductors (the one closest to the headphone &amp;quot;handle&amp;quot;) to ground. Connect one of the other two headphone conductors (assuming stereo headphones) to the center leg of R15 or R16. You should be able to hear sounds that the board is making through the headphones. Your amp is probably bad if you can hear sounds at R15 or R16, but not through the speakers, assuming you&#039;ve tested the speaker to be good and you have 30VDC power at the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;LM379 Audio Amp Replacement Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mark the &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; of the heat sink so you can later determine orientation of the original amp should this be necessary. Pin 1 of the amp can&#039;t be identifed without removing the two screws that secure the finned heat sink to the chips integrated heat sink. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove the LM379 amp and heat sink assembly from the board. Desolder all 14 pins and pull the amp off the board. The LM379 heat sink may be soldered to the board so you&#039;ll need to remove that solder too. Be forewarned, the solder pads are delicate and easily damaged. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note how the LM379 is upside-down in relation to other chips on the board.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; This will be important later.&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Building the New Amp Assembly&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the new amp to the 14 pin DIP. Use the diagram below as a guide. The pinouts are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Amp Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Socket Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Purpose&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 1 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 9 || &amp;amp;nbsp;+ amp input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 2 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 8 || &amp;amp;nbsp;- amp input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 3 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 4 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 4 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 10 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Audio out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 5 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 1 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Vcc (+30VDC)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It will take some fancy bending to connect all of the amp legs in a way that they do not touch one another, but it can be done. It is important that the amp stands straight up and that the pins don&#039;t touch each other. See the diagram below for  better info. Don&#039;t worry about the 12VDC connection right now. We&#039;ll connect that later.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM379ReplacementNewAmpPinout.jpg‎|600px|center|Pinout schematic to attach the LM1875 amp to a 14 pin DIP socket]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;One Tech&#039;s Implementation (Heat Sink Added Later)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpFrontSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpRearSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Rear side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Attaching the heat sink&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, yes, you need a heat sink. Audio amps run hot. Without a heat sink, the amps life will be dramatically shortened.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mount the heat sink to the amp/socket assembly. You may have to modify your heat sink so that it doesn&#039;t contact anything but the LM1875 amp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Heat sink compound should be spread on any metal to metal surface that is to conduct heat. This will improve the heat sink&#039;s efficiency and is a must on this device to work right. Without the compound, the amp will overheat and shutdown. It may even be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=270px heights=270px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Kirb&#039;s original completed assembly&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpSideViewKirb.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Side view.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpFrontSideKirb.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front view.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Final Steps&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CompleteAssemblyInSitu.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The completed assembly, mounted to the Sound and Speech Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the new amp assembly directly to the board. Normally you would use a socket, but that will  lead to audio problems. It is better just to solder it into the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;ACHTUNG!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Remember that pin 1 of the amp solder pads on the board is upside-down relative to every other IC on the board, and you need to install your new amp assembly with pin 1 &amp;quot;down&amp;quot;. Make sure this is done right. There is a 1 screened to the back of the board that should help you orient the assembly. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM379Replacement12VDCSource.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Connecting 12VDC to the amp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Now that the pins are soldered to the board, we have to connect 12VDC to pin 14 of the socket. This is easily found at the positive (+) side of C39. This 12VDC biases the +IN so that it won&#039;t saturate. Your amp will only work for about 30 seconds without this 12VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check all of your work one more time, then test the amp and see what you get. If you&#039;ve followed these steps correctly, your sound should be loud and clear!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Mapping =====&lt;br /&gt;
The interface between the driver board/MPU and the sound board is a simple bit map. An example bit map can be found on the [http://www.pinwiki.com//wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole Black Hole] specific page. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A Sound Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Cutting Out / No Sound=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback Back.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Piggyback Amplifier Board w/ Cracked Header Pins]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® had a tendency of using single-sided boards for their &amp;quot;piggy back&amp;quot; / daughter boards, and these boards are susceptible to cracked header pin solder joints.  The MA-483 amplifier board is no different.  If the sound appears to be cutting out or their are no sounds at all, the header joints on the MA-483 may have developed cracks.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before suspecting the daughter board header joints, review the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting] section located in the &amp;quot;General for all games&amp;quot; section. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A / 80B Sound with Piggyback Board====&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80A / 80B sound board is nearly the same as the first generation System 80 sound only sound board.  It utilizes a 2716 EPROM versus a masked ROM like the System 80 sound board.  This was potentially due to the Harris 7643 masked ROM being obsolete.  The 80A / 80B board does not use a test button.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the System 80 sounds only board, this board has 2 obsolete chips on it, the CPU (6503) and the RRIOT (6530).  On the plus side, these boards did not get destroyed nearly as much as the original System 80 sounds only boards (plugging the System 80 sounds only board into a System 1 game would destroy it in a very short time).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-766)====&lt;br /&gt;
This sound board has two independent 6502 CPUs.  One exclusively drives a DAC (digital-to-analog converter).  The other drives the speech chip, Orator, (not used for speech on this generation of sound board, but it is used to generate sounds), and two AY-3-8913 sound chips.  Each is pretty much independent, sharing essentially only the sound select lines, the reset signal, and the output section. The gates of one TTL chip are used by both 6502s to communicate between the subsystems via the NMI signal to each 6502 among other functions. The ROMs, CPUs, and accessory chips, are all localized to the particular subsystem other than the inter-processor communication just mentioned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the LED and test switch are only relevant for the CPU that operates the speech and synthesizer chips, not the chip connected directly to the DAC. With this in mind, it should be possible to troubleshoot this board using a divide-and-conquer approach.  For instance, if the LED isn&#039;t blinking in/off at about a 50% duty cycle, then the subsystem for the 6502 that controls the LED has to have a fault, but the other subsystem may be fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since this sound board is really just a more complex MPU board, or single board computer, the usual diagnostic steps are in order.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the ROM images are valid.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the reset signal begins low and then transitions to high after about 1/2 second.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the external clock signal is present at pin 37 of both 6502 processors.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the data lines on the 6502 (pins 33 through 26) are pulsing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the address lines on the 6502 (pins 9 through 20, 22 through 25) are pulsing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the external clocks are pulsing at pins 3 and 39 of the 6502 processors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-886)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA-886.jpg|300px|right|thumb|A repaired MA-886 sound board. Resistors R15, R16, R14, and R13 (top to bottom) are shown with blue Sharpie marks on their left ends, the end to probe when testing the sound channel. The other two components in the rectangle are high frequency ceramic filter capacitors which rarely fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 is generally the same board as the MA-766 sound board.  The main differences are that the MA-886 uses .156&amp;quot; header pins instead of edge connections, the Orator chip was no longer used, and SW1 was abandoned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Troubleshooting this board is nearly identical to the steps noted above for the MA-766 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One useful aspect of the board is that 4 channels of sound are summed by the LM324 at B1 before final amplification offboard. &lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 1 is the output from the 7528 DAC at E2. An example of the sounds that this channel makes is the &amp;quot;Destroy Alpha One&amp;quot; and other voices used in Robowar. This channel also contributes the &amp;quot;skittering&amp;quot; sound when the ball pass the rollunder on the ramp wireform and the &amp;quot;energy pulse&amp;quot; sound when the ball rolls over any of the top 4 lane rollovers. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R16&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 2 is the output from the AY-3-8913 (if present) at H4. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R14&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 3 is the output from the AY-3-8913 (if present) at K4. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R13&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 4 is the output from the MF-4 at E5. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R15&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Placing an oscilloscope probe on the end of these resistors attached to the sound generating circuitry for that channel should show a purposeful signal (versus noise). If not, it&#039;s a good bet that one of the devices in that sound channel has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Several games (Bone Busters, Hoops, Bell Ringer, Silver Slugger, Car Hop, Deadly Weapon, Title Fight, and Vegas to name a few) use the MA-866 sound board paired with the MA-1294 auxiliary sound board. The two boards are connected via a special ribbon cable with dip &amp;quot;pins&amp;quot; on each end. WARNING: remove these connectors ONLY by sliding a flat blade screwdriver under it. Trying to &amp;quot;pull&amp;quot; the connector off with fingers on each side WILL cause the connector to be damaged. This sound board pair makes a two tone sound at power on. The two tones are different notes, like &amp;quot;LA-TI&amp;quot;. The first tone originates from the YM2151 on the MA-1294 auxiliary sound board. The second tone originates from the 7528 DAC. If either tone is missing, or unclear, suspect the associated sound lane.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-886) Jumpers J7 and J8====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA886JumperComparison.jpg|300px|left|thumb|The left board is from Silver Slugger (a System 3 game) which has both J7 and J8 installed. The right board is from Night Moves which has only J7 installed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA886SchematicSnippet.jpg|300px|right|thumb|A snippet of the schematic for the two boards showing that without J8 installed, the sound board will not be &amp;quot;interrupted&amp;quot; to indicate a new sound command is to be processed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 sound board was used in both System 80B and System 3 games. Two jumpers allow the board to be configured to accept the signal at connector P1, pin 9, as input. J8 IN enables this. J8 OUT defeats this. It&#039;s important to ensure these jumpers are installed appropriately for a particular game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Flippers.jpg|400px|left|thumb|Typical System 80 Flippers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80 flipper assemblies are very well engineered, and very little goes wrong with them.  Due to this, they are considered to be the &amp;quot;Sherman Tanks&amp;quot; of flippers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B games other than Bone Busters utilize the traditional &amp;quot;fat&amp;quot; flipper bat design (similar to Bally, Chicago Coin, and Stern), which is a carry over from the last flipper design of Gottlieb® System 1 games. The 3&amp;quot; plastic flipper bat is technically called a &amp;quot;flipper island&amp;quot; (Gottlieb® part number A-13150), and uses a 3/8&amp;quot; wide rubber ring versus the more common 1/2&amp;quot; wide rubber all other manufacturers use.  Another anomaly regarding Gottlieb® flippers from this era is that they are the only flipper design that uses an upper and lower flipper bushing system.  Neither bushing protrudes through the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
System 80/80A/80B flippers (other than Bone Busters) use an A-17875 (standard), A-24161 (stronger), or A-20095 (strongest) dual wound flipper coil.  The general design is a coil with two windings, the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; (low resistance) and &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; (high resistance) windings, just like most other flipper coil designs. However, only a single diode is used with this serial winding design versus others which employ a dual diode, parallel winding design.  Here&#039;s how it all works.  When initially engaged via the flipper cabinet button switches, both the power stroke and hold windings receive power, however, the hold winding is bypassed or shorted by the end of stroke (EOS) switch (electricity follows the path of least resistance).  As the flipper actuates and opens the EOS switch, the power is then transferred to both the power and hold windings (the resistance sum of the two windings), creating a very high resistance.  The high resistance allows the coil to remain turned on without creating stress on the low resistance power winding.  Hence, the coil can stay turned on indefinitely in theory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B flipper systems do not use a flipper relay per se.  Flipper power flows through switch pairs on Q &amp;amp; T relays located under the playfield, along with other non-computer controlled coils like slingshots.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For problems and resolutions for the flippers used in Bone Busters, please see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3#Flipper_Problems Flipper Problems] section in the Gottlieb System 3 repair guide. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers Won&#039;t Work at All====&lt;br /&gt;
Like any flipper issue, it has be determined whether the problem is electrical or mechanical in nature.  Start with obvious first.  Look for broken wires at the flipper coil, EOS switch, and cabinet switch first.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During visual inspection, make certain that the flipper EOS switch is closed (use an ohmmeter to determine this), and the switch pairs on the tilt and game over relays are properly gapped and closed.  Equally, inspect the switch pairs to see if any of the switch blades are broken or missing their contacts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since high current passes through all of the switches which enable the flipper, any of the switches may be suspect.  It is somewhat common for games which have been sitting dormant for years that the cabinet switch and / or EOS switch become so fouled, the flipper will not budge at all.  The remedy is to file these switches with an ignition file.  See the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#How_to_Properly_File_Switch_Contacts How to Properly File Switch Contacts] section.  A flexstone will not work for this job, as the cabinet and EOS switch contacts are very hard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Inspect the cabinet switches for broken female spade connectors where the cabinet wiring attaches to the switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, look at the flipper plunger / link assembly.  The plunger link is a hefty plastic piece which inserted into at hollowed out end of the flipper plunger.  The link is connected to the plunger with a small roll pin.  The link can break or the roll pin can fall out, due to vibration.  If the link is no longer connected to the plunger, the flipper will not move at all.  Refrain from trying to engage the flipper with the cabinet switches.  Continuing to enable the flipper coil will stress the coil, because the EOS switch will not open, transferring power.  The end result is an overheated flipper or damaged flipper coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers are Weak, Sluggish, or Erratic====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Wrong Flipper Coil Installed&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb manuals of this era are a little confusing and misleading when documenting the flipper coils to use on each game.  The manual usually has a chart in the front half of the manual that lists all the coils that &amp;quot;could be&amp;quot; used in the game.  This chart is the same for every game and lists multiple flipper coils (i.e., A-17875, A-24161, or A-20095) but not necessarily what&#039;s used in that specific game and where.  To determine that, you must refer to the schematics in the later half of the manual to identify the coils that are supposed to be used for each of the flippers in that specific game.  I&#039;ve seen lots of Gottlieb games where the wrong flipper coils are installed, either because the operator didn&#039;t have the correct coils on-hand, or because the installer misinterpreted the information in the manual.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System1-80FlipperLinkDamageAnnotated.jpg|thumb|left|300px|A Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B Flipper Plunger/Link/Crank Parts. Note the &amp;quot;hogged out&amp;quot; part of the link]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Worn Flipper Link&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The design of the flipper crank and flipper link / plunger is peculiar to Gottlieb® games.  Gottlieb® games from the System 80/80A/80B era use a very meaty flipper link, which does not have a pivot point between it and the connected plunger.  To achieve the necessary fulcrum, the flipper link has an oval opening at the point where the link and flipper crank connect.  The two pieces are simply connected with a roll pin protruding through the two parts.  Over time, the roll pin can sometimes cut into the opening in the link, and the roll pin will catch as the flipper crank pivots.  The result is a weak flipper or a flipper which does not return to the at rest position.  Using a roll pin punch tool, remove the roll pin, and replace the flipper link / plunger assembly.  Pay close attention when installing the roll pin into the new plunger link.  It is very easy to cut into the link with the roll pin, deeming the new link / plunger worthless.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Flipper Crank Installed Incorrectly&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Reassembling a flipper bat / shoe incorrectly can result in a weak flipper.  Before tightening the two set screws which hold the flipper shaft in place, make certain that the flipper crank is centered equidistant between the upper and lower flipper bushings.  If placed too close to the upper bushing, it will &amp;quot;sandwich&amp;quot; the upper bushing between the crank and bat.  If placed too close to the lower bushing, the crank will have friction between it and the lower bushing.  The end result is a weak flipper or a flipper which does not return to the at rest position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Fouled / Pitted Switch Contacts&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Fouled switch contacts can reduce current, which in turn reduces power / strength.  Make certain that the EOS switch, cabinet switch, and switch pairs on the game over (Q) and tilt (T) relays are all clean and not pitted. Filing the contacts with an ignition file will remedy the problem, provided that the contacts are not heavily pitted.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Bad Connection to Cabinet Switch&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another problem related to the cabinet switches is the female spade connector used to connect the cabinet wiring to the switch.  These spade connectors can sometimes become sloppy or break.  In most cases, the break is not evident, until the connector is removed and reinstalled on the cabinet switch tab.  The spade connector can be removed and a new one crimped on, or the better solution is to solder the cabinet switch wires to the tabs on the cabinet switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Worn Flipper Plunger&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A mushroomed flipper plunger can create excessive drag within the coil sleeve.  When replacing the plunger / link, replace the coil sleeve and coil stop too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Coil Stop&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The coil stop &amp;quot;slug&amp;quot; is pressed into the coil stop bracket.  It is somewhat common for the slug to become detached from the coil stop bracket.  The coil stop slug will then be &amp;quot;free floating&amp;quot; within the coil sleeve.  This can create some interesting problems, but the most noticeable are reduction in flipper power, decrease in flipper stroke or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Incorrect Flipper Rubber Installed&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® used 3/8&amp;quot; wide rubber on flippers.  It fits perfectly into the groove on the plastic flipper bat.  Everybody else used 1/2&amp;quot; wide rubber, and that tended to get installed on the Gottlieb® games, too.  When a 1/2&amp;quot; wide ring is used, it almost fits, but because of the groove, it will present a funny angle to the ball instead of a flat plane.  The results are either air balls, or the flipper will smack the ball downward into the playfield.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Cracked / Broken Plastic Bat&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes the flipper bat cracks.  Replacements are available.  The screw that holds the plastic flipper bat on the metal shoe is located on the underside of the flipper.  Loosen the two set screws on the flipper crank, and the shoe and bat will come free.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Hold Winding&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Erratic flipper function is defined as a flipper which will not remain in the up (hold) position when activated.  The flipper will move rapidly up and down as if it is &amp;quot;machine gunning&amp;quot;.  This is typically the result from a break in the hold winding right at the flipper coil lug.  One resolution is to locate the broken coil winding (this will be the thinner of the two windings), and unwind one turn from the coil.  This can be accomplished if the side of the winding is not connected to the common lug of the flipper coil.  Note that the power winding cannot be unwound if it breaks.  This is because the power winding is wound on the coil bobbin first, and is located beneath the hold winding.  Once one turn of the hold winding is unwound from the coil, the excess length must be shortened.  After the correct length is determined, the portion of the winding which will be soldered to the coil lug must have its insulation stripped off.  The red or green hue on the coil winding is actually a thin insulation, which is used to keep the winding from shorting to adjacent windings.  Gently scrape the coating off the winding by using an exacto or utility knife, exposing the copper wire of the winding.  Then wrap the uninsulated winding around the coil lug, and solder it.  If a single winding cannot be removed from the existing coil, complete coil replacement is the solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers Will not Return to at Rest Position====&lt;br /&gt;
The EOS switch assembly is actuated by the pointed part of the flipper crank assembly.  This is a metal-on-metal contact point.  Due to the design of the flipper crank, it will eventually wear a hole in the EOS actuating blade.  The fix is to replace the EOS switch assembly.  About halfway through the System 80B games (around TX-Sector or so), the EOS switch was slightly relocated, and a modified flipper crank actuates the switch with a roller.  An MA-988 or MA-989 kit can be purchased to perform this upgrade on any System 80/80A/80B game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned in the previous section, the flipper link can become cut by the roll pin which secures it to the flipper crank.  This can also cause the flipper to not return to the rest position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also mentioned in the previous section, the flipper coil stop slug can detach from the coil stop bracket, causing the flipper not to return completely.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the flipper return spring has become stretched or is no longer connected to the flipper crank or coil stop anymore, the flipper will not return properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb pbdb new.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Corrected/Modified Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B Pop Bumper Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pop bumpers on all System 80 / 80A / 80B games are controlled by an under playfield mounted board known as the pop bumper driver board (PBDB). Remote pop bumper driver boards are unique to Gottlieb® System 80 games. No other manufacturer made this design decision. The reason Gottlieb® did this is probably to supplement the number of coil drive circuits as well as to solve the common problem of pop bumpers locking on with subsequent damage to the games components.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each pop bumper has its own board.  Each board provides a consistent, strong pop regardless of how long the spoon switch is activated, and ensures (when working properly) only a single pop per actuation of the spoon switch. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These boards are single-sided construction, where the traces are located only the solder side of the board.  Due to this construction, the solder connections crack easily.  Reflowing the solder of the header pins on any suspect boards is recommended to ensure a good mechanical and electrical connection.  The components should be inspected as well, because they can also have cracked solder connections that will need to be touched up.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the pop bumper fires but does not score, examine the secondary switch on each pop bumper to see if it needs cleaning or adjustment.  This switch is part of the switch matrix, and can be tested by manually pulling the pop bumper rod and ring down to activate it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Pop Bumper Driver Board Power and Ground Source====&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:PBDBPowerGroundConnection.jpg]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen in the schematic snippet above, Pop Bumper Driver Boards receive 5V power and a connection to ground via MPU connector A1J6, pins 18 and 9 respectively. A poor connection at these pins will render the pop bumper driver board, and hence the associated pop bumper, inoperative.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing to see if the PBDB is receiving 5VDC and ground can be accomplished by measuring between pin 7 (ground) and pin 14 (5VDC) on either of the integrated circuits on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of 5VDC power (or ground) may also be caused by fractured solder joints on the PBDB header.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Pin 2 of each pop bumper driver board connector is the path to ground for solenoid power. This ground is connected to the transformer chassis via one of the many equally dicey methods Gottlieb used. See: [[Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Ground_Improvements_for_System_80B|Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80B Games]].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Updating the Pop Bumper Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® issued a service bulletin to correct a design error with the PBDB. A great many of these boards were delivered in games prior to correcting the design at the factory. Examine the PBDBs to ensure that they have been updated. See the pictures below, noting the differences. &#039;&#039;&#039;A dead giveaway would be the lack of a jumper to replace CR1.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=150px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80/80A/80B PBDB Before/After Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-UnModifiedPBDB.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Unmodifed PBDB&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-ModifiedPBDB.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Modifed PBDB&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-ModifiedPBDBPartsExplanation.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B PBDB Update]]&lt;br /&gt;
Should your PBDB require update, follow this procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Acquire the following parts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Cut to length .156 Molex male header pins with locking ramp (you&#039;ll need a 6 pin length)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**47uf/10V electrolytic capacitor (C4)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**4.7uf/10V capacitor (C3, tantalum or electrolytic, may be axial or radial)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Jumper material (use the remaining leg cut from C4 when you install it)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove CR1, C3, and C4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the Molex connector or reflow the solder on each header pin&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Install C4 (47uf/10V) with the negative side facing the male header pins&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Use the remaining part of the capacitor leg from C4 as a jumper to replace CR1. Any jumper wire will work...the cap leg is convenient, available, and looks professional when installed nice and straight.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Install C3 (4.7uf/10V), reversing the original polarity so that the positive side faces the jumper just installed and the negative side faces the nearest board edge. Note that C3 may be axial (leads from both ends along the components &amp;quot;axis&amp;quot;) or radial (leads on one end of the component). The board is designed to accept either style.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the large can transistor (2N6057, 2N6059, PMD10K40 or PMD10K60) solder joints are solid and that the bolted end is making good contact with the PCB trace.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Test the large can transistor...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**DMM set to &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Black lead on the nut that secures the transistor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Red lead on each leg of the transistor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**A measurement between .5 and .7 should be seen. Readings significantly outside of these ranges indicate a failed transistor which should be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Examine the remaining solder joints on the board to ensure good solid joints and no lifted traces. Note that the trace between the jumper that replaces CR1 and R2 is particularly susceptible to damage and if broken, will cause the associated pop bumper to lock on.&lt;br /&gt;
*Reinstall the PBDB and test.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an update for the PBDB that gives the board a bit more &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot;. Simply replace R1 (1.5Kohms) with a 10Kohm 1/4W resistor and replace C1 (0.01mfd) with a 1 mfd 100 volt (non polarized) capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to avoid random, uncommanded pops caused by &amp;quot;noise&amp;quot; on the switch line, you can add an electrolytic capacitor to the solder side of the board. Use a 4.7 mfd 16 volt radial capacitor (both leads on one end). Solder the negative lead of the capacitor to pin 4. Solder the positive lead of the capacitor to pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing the 2N6057 with a TIP-102=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:popdrivertip102.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A TIP-102 installed on a Pop Bumper Driver Board (PBDB)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PBDTIP102.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Closer view of a TIP-102 installed on a PBDB]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 2N6057 used on Gottlieb games is obsolete, so it is hard-to-find and expensive.  A cheap and effective substitute for the 2N6057 as used on the PBDB is a TIP102 transistor.  It&#039;s not the most elegant &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot;, but it works well.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Early System 80 / 80A Drop Target Removal====&lt;br /&gt;
For now, please review the drop target removal guide available at [http://www.papinball.com/tips/gottlieb_drop_target_guide2.html PAPinball.com].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Later System 80B Drop Target Removal==== &lt;br /&gt;
This is a stub&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Vari-Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
The single largest problem with vari-targets is adjusting the spring tension, which returns the vari-target to the at rest position.  The spring can be adjusted by hooking it to one of two screws which hold the spring in place.  In most cases, there is only one screw, but two screw holes are placed 180 degreees from one another within the vari-target frame.  Spring adjustment should be made so that the vari-target barely returns to the home position, when the playfield is upright (resting against the backbox).  Once the playfield is placed in its proper position, gravity will help with the extra &amp;quot;bump&amp;quot; that the vari-target needs to return home.  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, the switch leaves of the vari-target, which &amp;quot;ride&amp;quot; along the rivet board need enough tension to make good solid contact with the rivets. Since it&#039;s impossible to bend the switch leaves closer to the rivet board with the rivet board in place, removal of the vari-target rivet board must be done to make this adjustment.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vari-targets seldom require adjustment as they were correctly adjusted at the factory. It is possible to move parts of the mechanism so that the switch no longer comes to rest on a rivet when the vari-target &amp;quot;gear&amp;quot; is stopped by the reset relay armature.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vari-targets are a rare example of where lubrication helps the operation of the mechanism. A thin film of lithium grease on the rivets helps the switch blade &amp;quot;wipe&amp;quot; cleanly across them. Like [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brylcreem Brylcreem], &amp;quot;a little dab&#039;ll do ya&amp;quot;. Note: That&#039;s humor son...Brylcreem is not a suitable lubricant...for pinball machines. :-)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Roto Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
By the time System 80 games first came out, the roto target was a dying assembly.  The believed reason is due to the amount of playfield &amp;quot;real estate&amp;quot; in which it used underneath a playfield.  Circus is the only System 80 game which used the roto target.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
===Cabinet===&lt;br /&gt;
* Power cable strain relief bushing, 80A games: Heyco 7k-2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Black Hole issues have been moved to the dedicated [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole Black Hole] page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Alien Star Game Start Failure===&lt;br /&gt;
Alien Star has a major fault when running the original 689 code.  For the game to properly start, one ball must be in the trough and one ball in the outhole.  If both balls are located in the trough, only the single trough switch will be closed, and not the outhole switch.  When only the trough switch is closed, the game *thinks* that only one ball is installed, (2 balls total are needed), and will do absolutely nothing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has not been verified, but running 689A code may resolve this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Haunted House - Upkicker Plastic Tube Mounting Bracket===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cornell_VR4_cap_bracket.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Mounting bracket for the plastic tube.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The metal mounting bracket that secures the longer plastic upkicker tube to the main playfield breaks its tabs (ears) off allowing the tube to flop around loose. This bracket is actually an electrolytic capacitor mounting bracket for computer grade capacitors. If broken, Mouser Electronics sells this item as part number [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/VR4/?qs=0r35cIPu56HWvTGFwxXK2g%3d%3d 539-VR4]. The OEM part is a VR4, which is manufactured by Cornell-Dublier (Mallory).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Spring Break - Shooter Lane Switch Required to work or ball will drain and game will &amp;quot;brick&amp;quot;===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpringBreakBallLaunchGateCropped.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|Ball gate at exit to Spring Break shooter lane. The spring actuates a switch below the playfield. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Russell McIntyre&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Spring Break is configured to start a multiball at the start of every ball. The game uses a &amp;quot;shooter lane exit&amp;quot; switch or any scoring switch, to know that a ball has been put into play, enabling subsequent balls to launch. If this switch is malfunctioning, and a ball is launched that scores no points before draining, the game will be &amp;quot;bricked&amp;quot; requiring a power cycle. The key is scoring points and the shooter lane exit switch scores 300 points. This seems like a &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot; created by Gottlieb once this &amp;quot;feature&amp;quot; was discovered.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Devil&#039;s Dare - All Displays out except status display===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DD Resistor Before.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Burnt 200 Ohm resistor on +60VDC display power line]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DD Resistor After.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Replacement 200 Ohm 2 watt resistor on +60VDC display power line]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the game in question is a Devil&#039;s Dare, and all of the displays are out except for the status display, and the +60VDC is present at the power supply, but not at the displays, the following may apply.  Some Devil&#039;s Dare games, (it is unknown exactly which ones at this point), have a 200 ohm resistor installed in series with the +60VDC power line for the displays.  The resistor is located on the lamp insert board, just behind the lower right 6 digit display.  The resistor is soldered to two solder eyelets, so replacement is relatively easy.  It is unknown what the purpose of this resistor is, but it is fairly common for the resistor to overheat and potentially fail.  The recommended replacement for this is a 200 ohm 2 watt resistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no information regarding the value or placement of this resistor in the Devil&#039;s Dare manual / schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Mars God of War (MGOW) - Background Sound Continues After Game is Over===&lt;br /&gt;
If the background sound continues after the game is over, this may solve the issue.  Even though the manual states that dipswitch 25 on the CPU board is not used, try placing switch 25 in the &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Volcano Kick Back Ends Prematurely ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:VolcanoKickBack.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The Volcano kickback mechanism.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The kickback mechanism in Volcano, once enabled by a playfield feature, remains available until the player uses the feature by pressing the green cabinet button in front of the flipper switch. The game knows that the feature has been used by sensing the switch at the rear of the mechanism. As the plunger pulls in, the normally closed switch is opened by the ring on the rear of the plunger. If this normally closed switch isn&#039;t &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; solidly, the game will think that the plunger has pulled in. The kickback feature will be considered used and hence disabled.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The behavior looks like the feature has timed out prematurely.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Games with Playfield Windows: Black Hole, Haunted House, Genesis, Monte Carlo, etc. ===&lt;br /&gt;
Playfield windows use foam washers that provide &amp;quot;counter force&amp;quot; to help keep the window flush with the playfield. If the window isn&#039;t flush with the playfield, the &amp;quot;lip&amp;quot; of the sunken window in its mount will cause airballs and/or the edge of the playfield will wear excessively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a couple decades, springy foam washers turn into hard, crumbly foam washers. Weatherstripping (&amp;quot;beer seal&amp;quot;), cut really small, works in a pinch, but the Pinball Resource stocks the proper foam washers (GTB # 21219). Strips of tool box drawer liner work as well, but there is only one chance to crank them down before they compress.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
==== Game Displays 000000 On Power Up and It&#039;s Not The Slam Switch ====&lt;br /&gt;
If you power the game on and all of the displays immediately display all zeros without strobing the problem is usually with the slam switch. However, if the slam switch modification has been done or the slam switch is working properly there is a problem with the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I had this problem on my Haunted House machine. I finally found that chip Z15 (7432) was bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I was fixing a kicker solenoid on the playfield, the playfield was still in the machine and fully in the upright position. While I was soldering the wire to the new solenoid I did not adequately protect the components below from a solder drip. Well, I did have a solder drip that landed right on a pop bumper driver board connector and shorted the connector. The short caused more than just this problem but for this narrative we will restrict to the slam/switch matrix problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reading in other materials I recognized the problem as the slam switch issue. I used a logic probe to test other components and found the CPU board working, mostly as it should except for acting like the machine was slam tilted. There was little written about the problem outside of the slam switch. I decided to check the matrix by doing a diode check on all of the diodes in the switch matrix. When I did this, I found that many of the diodes were testing bad. These were being tested with the board removed from the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Having replacement diodes in my parts drawer I decided that these must have gone bad during the short. I began unsoldering a few of the diodes. Once disconnected from the circuit board I remeasured the removed diodes and found the correct values on my meter, they were not bad. I then noticed that the bad diodes were all in the same row on the switch matrix. They all traced back to the Z15 chip. I replaced the Z15 7432 and the problem was resolved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Game Displays a single 0 or 1 on Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
If an 80A game does not boot and displays just a single zero, just a single 1, or alternates between a single zero and single 1, this may indicate one or more bad IC(s) on the MPU:&lt;br /&gt;
* CPU&lt;br /&gt;
* Z7&lt;br /&gt;
* Z8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU itself may still output data that can be picked up with a logic probe, but still might be bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-sys80a-bad-cpu-display-symptom.gif|thumb|300px|left|Animation of symptom of alternating 0 and 1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-sys80a-bad-cpu-display-symptom-zeros.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Symptom of the displays showing a single zero]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=&amp;quot;all&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Testing the Q relay ====&lt;br /&gt;
Had a problem with my Black Hole - Q relay didn&#039;t activate. Played a bit with wires, did ground mods, .. &lt;br /&gt;
After a while I noticed it did work but didn&#039;t stay enabled - at the start of a game it closed, 1 coil (ball drain) kicked and the Q relay deactivated again. Noticed this with the playfield in up position, no pinballs installed.&lt;br /&gt;
Finally tested with playfield down - and pinballs installed - suddenly the behaviour was different: ball drain coil kicked and then the next coil also that put a coil in the shooter lane. Seems the Q relay did work all this time, but will only stay enabled when pinballs are installed in the game ?!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Results of a locked on coil ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurntCoil1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Melted coil sleeve.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurntCoil2.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Burned coil wrapper.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a coil locks on (due for example to a bad driver board transistor), the coil will burn. Here is a coil which had locked on. Note the burn marks on the paper wrapping and the melted coil sleeve, which prevented the coil plunger from moving through the coil. The resistance of this coil was 0.9 ohms (the specified resistance for this particular coil should be 3.35 ohms), also indicating it&#039;s bad due to an internal short (adjacent windings shorted together due to overheating the coil wire insulation).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Black Hole top rollover switches ====&lt;br /&gt;
When Black Hole serves a ball, it must go through the top rollovers before hitting any other switch.  The playfield design ensures this.  But if it doesn&#039;t (I had the glass off and started testing some other feature), things get very weird: suddenly, I seemed to be in a 3-ball, 4-player game with some of the score displays blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This isn&#039;t usually a problem in practice but it is worth making sure that the three top rollovers have clean switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replacing the 80B 5V pot ====&lt;br /&gt;
I got a Monte Carlo and replaced the 5V adjustment pot on the regulator.  It was working fine.  After the old one had been chopped off, I discovered it was the same as the new one.  It had already been replaced!  A bunch of rework on the regulator, and ground mods on the transformer frame, should have been my clue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 80B sound doesn&#039;t work ====&lt;br /&gt;
I got a Spring Break and the sound didn&#039;t work.  The LED didn&#039;t light in any predictable way, and the game put out a lot of white noise.  At one point I thought I heard some sounds underneath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, I had a Monte Carlo sitting next to it where the sound did work.  I spent some time trying to understand the problem, and finally just swapped all the socketed chips (three EPROMs and the &amp;quot;Orator&amp;quot; speech synthesizer).  The problem followed the EPROMs, not the board.  Ultimately I replaced all three ROMs, although it seems likely that only one was likely bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the sound board has two separate CPUs, and only one controls the LED, so it is likely one of the two EPROMs associated with that CPU that is actually bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Two flash lamp problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
Monte Carlo has four pairs of flashers controlled by &amp;quot;lamp&amp;quot; drive transistors, stepped up by under-playfield transistors.  On my game, I had two unrelated problems with different flash banks.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two sockets by the roulette wheel were missing their lamps, and the under playfield was a little burned near where the lamps had been.  Apparently they were locked on, and someone had pulled the bulbs rather than fix the problem.  I replaced Q17, which was out of spec according to the measurements on this page.  I didn&#039;t replace the under-playfield MJ2955 because it seemed to measure correctly.  One down, one to go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The other flasher, the two on the left side, just didn&#039;t work.  Lamp bulbs were fine, and all transistors seemed OK by the tests given above.  I checked for continuity in the wiring and even tried grounding the transistor side of the circuit, but no lamps lit.  Finally, I pulled the plastic off to take the bulb out (to measure at the socket) and I found that the two lugs of the socket were bent and touching!  So the lamp was a short, but because of the resistor, not short enough to blow the fuse or fry the transistor.  A little bending back seems to have fixed it. -- [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 16:29, 7 February 2014 (CST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 80B Display has garbage on one display glass ====&lt;br /&gt;
Chicago Cubs had garbage/nonsensical characters on just the lower score display. I found chip U2 (type 10939) which controls the lower display to be bad. Replacing the chip cured the problem. I also installed a 40 pin IC socket for the replacement chip. If by chance you encounter the same symptom except that it is on the upper display, then chip U1 (type 10939) is bad. U1 controls the upper score display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rebuilt 80/80A Power supply, solenoid fuse blows on power up====&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 80/80A power supply has been rebuilt and the solenoid fuse blows as soon as the game is turned on, take a look at the power supply capacitor at C1. It might have been installed in the wrong direction. Make sure the (-)side on the capacitor matches the (-) side notated on the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Haunted House ten thousand digit out on several displays ====&lt;br /&gt;
Encountered the ten thousand digits missing on three displays: player 1, player 3, and bonus display. Tried several known good cpu boards and problem remained. Tried swapping displays and problem remained. I traced the problem to the wiring harness on the main playfield. At the playfield mounted transistor Q2, the transistor mounting bracket had cut into the wiring harness. I repaired the harness with electrical tape and routed the harness farther away from that bracket with a couple of wire ties. Problem fixed and all displays are now working correctly.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=22137</id>
		<title>Williams System 9 - 11</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11&amp;diff=22137"/>
		<updated>2022-05-26T16:30:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* System 11A, 11B, 11C games */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wms sys9 boardset.jpg‎|220px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 Board Set from Space Shuttle]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingBackbox.jpg|thumb|right|220px|Williams System 11 (nothing) Board Set from High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Boardset.JPG|thumb|left|220px|Williams System 11A Board Set from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Jokerz Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|220px|Williams System 11b Board Set from Jokerz! (Note that power supply is a prototype)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sy11B Boardset.JPG|220px|thumb|left|System 11b Board Set from Transporter the Rescue]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11C_Boardset.JPG|thumb|right|220px|System 11c Board Set from Rollergames]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Williams system 7 boardset was replaced in 1984 with the system 9 boardset, and then again in 1985 with the system 11 boardset.  Combining the driver board, sound board, and cpu directly onto one board eliminated several design deficiencies of the earlier 3-7 boardsets; mainly the 40 pin interconnector, and extra wiring harness interboard connectors.  Larger roms could be fitted directly onto the boards allowing for more complex rulesets and sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 and System 11 board sets are not 100% compatible. With a fair amount of effort, a System 11 board could be made compatible with a System 9, but it is not worth the extended effort to change the jumpers. It&#039;s far easier to just modify the rom images so that they are plug and play when installed in a System 11 CPU. You can find them already on the ipdb. The primary differences between the System 9 and System 11 board sets are the sound system and rom space.&lt;br /&gt;
(add more info later)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As time went on, the System 11 board set underwent some changes too.  The power supply, sound board, and CPU / driver board have minor changes.  More apparent was the addition of circuit boards.  Starting with the 11a board set, a more complex sound board was added (System 11 sound boards are strictly background sounds only).  Later in the System 11 series, sound functions were partially (11B) or fully removed (11C) from the MPU, and eventually were solely handled by a dedicated sound board. Game-specific interconnect boards and auxiliary power driver boards were introduced in System 11B games.  The interconnect boards acted as a pass-through for switch, lamp, flasher, and solenoid signal lines and circuits. It also allowed circuits with different voltages to share the same power source by using current limiting resistors to drop voltages to the appropriate levels.  All general illumination fuses were moved to this board.  The auxiliary power driver board has the AC relay, which finally centralized the location of it.  Likewise, several fuses, beefier TIP36C transistors, and bridge rectifiers are centralized on the auxiliary power driver board.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|Strike Zone|| 1984 || 1916  || unknown || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Light|| 06-1984 || 530 || no speech || || 5610-09563-00 || only a few were made with System 9 boards inside&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Space Shuttle|| 12-1984 || 535 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sorcerer|| 03-1985 || 532 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet|| 06-1985 || 540 || C-10716 (Speech only) ||  || 5610-09563-00 and 5610-10355-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alley Cats|| 10-1985 || 1918 || Unknown ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[High Speed]]|| 01-1986 || 541 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grand Lizard|| 04-1986 || 523 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Road Kings|| 07-1986 || 542 || D-11197-542 (Background music only)  || || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinbot|| 10-1986 || 549 || D-11297-549 (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tic Tac Strike|| 11-1986 || 1919 || Unknown ||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Millionaire|| 01-1987 || 555 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11298-555.JPG | D-11298-555]] (Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound)  ||  || 5610-10897-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|F-14 Tomcat|| 03-1987 || 554 || D-11298-554 (Used on 1st 5,000 games - Background Speech &amp;amp; Sound) / D-11581-554 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire!|| 08-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || 5610-12136-00 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Fire! Champagne Edition|| 09-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 ||  || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Power Supply&lt;br /&gt;
!Aux Power Driver&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big Guns|| 10-1987 || 557 || D-11581-557 || D-8345-557 || D-11583-557 || C-11762 || Uses D-11814 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Space Station]]|| 12-1987 || 552 || D-11581-552 || D-8345-557  || D-11813-552 || C-11762-552 || Uses D-11814-552 Flash Lamp Resistor Board || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Mine|| 01-1988 || 1920 || None || D-8345-1914 || None || None ||  ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone|| 02-1988 || 564 ||[[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG | D-11581-564]]  || D-8345-557  ||  D-11813-574 || C-11762-564|| Uses D-11814-564 Flash Lamp Resistor Board  || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run|| 05-1988 || 566 || D-11581-566 || D-8345-566 ||D-12247-566 || D-12112 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Swords of Fury]]|| 06-1988 || 559 || D-11581-559 || D-8345-557 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-559 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Taxi|| 08-1988 || 553 || D-11581-553 || D-12246-553 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-553 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Top Dawg|| 11-1988 || 1921 || None || D-12246 || None || D-12313-1921 || ||  || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jokerz!|| 12-1988 || 567 || D-12338-567 || D-12246 ||  D-12247-559|| D-12313-567 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Earthshaker]]|| 02-1989 || 568 || [[Media:System 11 Sound Board.JPG | D-11581-568]] || D-12246-568 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-568|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight 2000]]|| 04-1989 || 563 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-585.JPG | D-11581-585]] || D-12246 || D-12247-563 || D-12313-563|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Uses special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Transporter the Rescue|| 04-1989 || 2008 || D-11581-2008 || D-12246  || D-12247-2008|| D-12313-2008 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Police Force|| 08-1989 || 573 || D-11581-573 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-573|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Shuffle Inn|| 10-1989 || 1922 || None (assumed) || D-12246 (assumed) || None || D-12313-1922 (assumed)||  || || This is a shuffle alley which uses some pinball boards &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Elvira and the Party Monsters|| 10-1989 || 2011 || D-11581-2011 || D-12246 || D-12247-2011|| D-12313-2011 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats|| 11-1989 || 575 || D-11581-575 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-575|| || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mousin&#039; Around!|| 12-1989 || 2009 || D-11581-2009 || D-12246 ||D-12247-2009 || D-12313-2209 || || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Whirlwind]]|| 01-1990 || 574 || D-11581-574 || D-12246 || D-12247-574 ||D-12313-574 || Uses a C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board to control 5 extra devices || 5610-12136-00 ||Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11C===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Master Interconnect&lt;br /&gt;
!Other Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Bally Game Show|| 04-1990 || 2003 || D-11581-2003 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2003 || Uses a C-13286 Sound Overlay Lamp Board || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pool Sharks|| 06-1990 || 2014 || D-11581-2014 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2014 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Rollergames]]|| 06-1990 || 576 || D-11581-576 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-576 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner|| 09-1990 || 571 || D-11581-571 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-571 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Radical!|| 09-1990 || 2015 || D-11581-2015 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2015 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude|| 11-1990 || 2016 || D-11581-2016 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-2016 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Riverboat Gambler]]|| 11-1990 || 50007 || D-11581-50007 w/ 512K ROMS (assumed) || D-12313-50007|| || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball|| 01-1991 || 20009 || D-11581-20009 w/ 512K ROMS|| D-12313-20009 || || 5610-12136-00 || Does not use special solenoid switches&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments. One example is the I/O signals for U21 / U22 of [[High_Speed|High Speed]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Details for board and cabinet schematics System 9-11 games can be found in the game manual or parts catalogs. Some copies can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball] or on [http://www.ipdb.org/ IPDB].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Troubleshooting &amp;amp; Reference Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|69-8955 (April 21, 1986)&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[media:Williams-pinball-troubleshooting-reference-manual_16-8955_sys9.pdf|PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet, High Speed, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Star Light&lt;br /&gt;
|System 9 games. Also includes Strike Zone shuffle alley game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Parts Catalogs===&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Parts catalogs also had supplementary updates to add and replace pages as newer games were released after the initial release of the catalogs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1986-1989)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/rvsk/ Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Black Knight 2000, Comet, Cyclone, Earthshaker!, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Jokerz!, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Police Force, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (1989-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/feme/ Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Dracula, Fish Tales, Funhouse, The Getaway, Hurricane, The Machine, Riverboat Gambler, Rollergames, Slugfest, Terminator 2, Whirlwind, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/itjk/ Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Atlantis, Black Rose, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Dr. Who, Elvira, Game Show, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Party Zone, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Supplementary service bulletin books were released, which included service bulletins that detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1989&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-Service-Bulletin-Book-1989-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/system_9-11/service-bulletins/Williams-Service-Bulletin-Book-1989.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Cyclone, Bonzai Run, Taxi, Earthshaker, Truck Stop, Transporter&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1990&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1990-service-bulletin-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/system_9-11/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1990.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Diner, Police Force, Pool Sharks, Rollergames&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1991-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Dr. Dude, Jokerz, Riverboat Gambler&lt;br /&gt;
|This book includes some WPC games&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 eliminated a huge issue with the earlier system 3 through 7 boardsets - the 40 pin interconnector used between the MPU and Driver boards.  Now, all the circuitry of the mpu, driver, and sound boards was contained on one board.  Helper boards were still used for displays, speech, special purposes, and solenoid expansion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Big Guns, Williams introduced another weak link into their system: the interconnect board.  It was initially designed to disperse the general illumination between the playfield and backbox.  The connectors on these boards were prone to overheating and failure just like any previous attempt.  At the same time, flash lamp resistor boards were being used.  These were created to centralize all of the flash lamp current limiting resistors, and eliminate under playfield flasher driver boards, which had proven themselves problematic.  Flash lamp resistor boards were only used on three games:  Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone.    In addition to the interconnect and the flash lamp resistor board, the auxiliary power driver board made its appearance.  The auxiliary power driver board housed all of the high current transistors (TIP36Cs), solenoid and flasher fuses (including discrete flipper fuses), the AC relay, and the solenoid bridge rectifiers.  The auxiliary power driver board did go through some minor changes, but it essentially was the same until the last System 11C game.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Banzai Run, a more standardized interconnect board was created.  This interconnect board merged the general illumination interconnect with the flasher driver board. Both switch and lamp circuits passed through this board, but neither circuit was modified by the board. Later in its existence, 3 opto couplers were used on this board to determine when the flippers and AC relay were activated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One of the largest advantages of the system 11 board set is its ability to switch one set of coil driver transistors between 2 sets of coils/flashers.  It does this via a relay on a separate board called the A/C relay (the A/C relay was eventually moved to the auxiliary power driver board starting with Big Guns).  The theory is that coils that are seldom fired will be on the A side of the relay, and that flashers will be on the C side of the relay.  Most of the time during gameplay, the C side is active, letting the flashers be driven.  If the driver transistor for the A/C relay itself is bad, the relay defaults to the coil side, allowing the game continue to operate in a semi-normal fashion (usually the A side coils are the ball shooter lane, drop target resets, VUK - basically coils that don&#039;t need to be able to operate 100% of the time unlike a sling coil or pop bumper coil).  Data East&#039;s boardset was essentially a copy of the system 11 boardset - but they programmed it the opposite way, so that the flasher side of the A/C relay is active by default.  So on a Data East game when the A/C relay doesn&#039;t operate, the game just sits there and flashes lamps instead of playing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and early System 11 games do share a disadvantage with the earlier 3-7 boardsets - they still utilize special solenoid circuitry.  The pops and slings on system 9/11 games do not activate via a switch which is seen by the MPU&#039;s program which fires the coil - instead, the switches directly fire their associated coils via some logic gates on the main board.  The main disadvantage with this system is that the solenoids fire continuously as long as their activation switch is closed; a locked on sling or pop will burn out components quickly.  It is recommended to add a 1, 1.5, or 2 amp inline fuse to each coil on a directly fired system 11 game.  Usually just the pops and slings are direct fired coils, however, other coils were designated to the special solenoids.  Later System 11 games did not use the direct fire solenoid switches, switches on the switch matrix were used instead.  To easily identify games which do not use direct fire solenoid switches, IJ18 on the MPU board will not have a harness connection attached to it.  Likewise, the slingshots and pop bumpers will no longer have a set of scoring switches.  One way that System 9 games differ from the previous 3-7 boardset is that the special solenoids are not controlled by the CPU at all.  In other words, the special solenoids are not pulsed during solenoid test, as the physical board architecture does allow for this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The software in system 9-11 games continued with the same machine architecture from system 6 and 7, except for the special solenoids as mentioned above.  More ram became available, up to 2k, but no game used over 800 bytes.  This is likely due to the obsolescence of earlier style ram chips more than any other reason.  Additional diagnostics in the form of switch error checking appeared in system 11; any switch not being activated over 30 games (16 games for flipper switches) would cause an error flag upon booting up.  The software was able to compensate for broken switches by designating another switch to perform the same function as the broken switch.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9MPU.jpg |300px|thumb|left|System 9 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9MPUFactoryMod.jpg |200px|thumb|right|These high frequency filter capacitors were added at the factory, and are normal. Their purpose is the snub high frequency noise in the Advance and Auto Up/Down coin door button circuits.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 9 MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams used a single version of the System 9 MPU in all System 9 games. A few minor modifications to the board may have been made, but it&#039;s essentially the same board for the entire 3 game run of Space Shuttle, Sorcerer, and Comet. The picture at left shows an early board that featured two inductors (copper wound coils that &amp;quot;smooth&amp;quot; DC power) at L1 and L2, adjacent to connector 1J17. Later revisions of the board used &amp;quot;zero ohm&amp;quot; jumpers instead, presumably to reduce cost.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games used one of four different revisions of the System 11 MPU. The first version of the System 11 MPU was completely self-contained, able to make game sounds on the board. A simple background sound board was used to add some game sounds. Between the baseline revision of the System 11 MPU and the last revision of the MPU (System 11C) incrementally more of the sound processing and sound circuitry was removed from the board (not stuffed).  None of the System 11 shuffle alley games use a separate sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WilliamsSystem11CPU.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Early System 11 (nothing) MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11NothingLater.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Later System 11 (nothing) MPU. Note extensive alkaline corrosion abatement, NVRAM install, and use of modern reset generator. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11 (nothing) MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This picture shows the early System 11 MPU. A later revision of this MPU, pictured at right, has an additional jumper W16 located between the 7 segment diagnostic display and the relay, and a 4.7K ohm resistor between the 7447 and the resistor DIP. The early PCB on the left has a trace routing error to the sound ribbon cable connector. If you use it with a later system 11A sound card you will get no sound because the sound card doesn&#039;t get reset properly. If you wonder why your High Speed doesn&#039;t beep when turning it on this one is also the culprit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11ZenerDiodeAddition.jpg|200px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes added to the back of the System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were added to the layout of the PCB in subsequent revisions of the board (11A, etc).]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|200px|thumb|right|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) incorporated into the board layout and stuffed at the factory on a later board revision. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows six 6.2V zener diodes added to the solder side of a System 11 (nothing) MPU. These zeners were left off the factory silkscreen of the board. Later revisions of the System 11 MPU added them to the component side of the board. Their purpose is to protect the special solenoid switch inputs. Either a ZPY6,2/ZD6,2/1N4735A (1 watt) or ZF5,2/1N5234B (1/2 watt) can be used. This mod is purely optional. In reality the diode doesn&#039;t help much if you short the switch input with the solenoid voltage. In this case the diode and the 7402 are usually damaged and need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, if the System 11 (nothing) MPU is used in a System 11A game or later, pins 6 and 7 of the adjacent connector (J18) must be tied to the ground plane at the edge of the board. These pins provide the ground for the special solenoids. Without the modification they do not work. Some early System 11A pins might not need the mod. If unsure just check if a cable is connected to pin 6 or 7 in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A-PB.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A rare prototype System 11a MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11aTransitionVersion.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Blanking, 5VDC, and Diagnostic LEDs factory installed in a &amp;quot;transition&amp;quot; vintage System 11a MPU. The prior version 7447 (U48) and resistor DIP (U47) has been replaced with a 7407, discrete resistors and LEDs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11TransitionTag.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A prototype System 11a MPU with original label]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11a &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Prototype&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This MPU was only used in Pin Bot. It&#039;s actually a System 11 (nothing) MPU PCB layout, with the  7 segment LED display replaced at the factory with 3 LEDs as used in all later System 11 MPUs (11A/B/C). The latest trace revision of this board also has the ground mod (connect 1J18, pins 6 and 7 to board ground) allowing it to work in any 11A/B/C game without modification. According to a friend it was referred to by the name of 11a instead of 11A by distributors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11A.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A late production System 11A MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11A MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11A MPU can be used in all System 11 games. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and possibly the amplifier section must be stuffed. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board. On early production system 11A boards, the amplifier section was fully stuffed, just like the original System 11 board. Later in the production of System 11A boards, the amplifier section was not stuffed, just like an 11B board. But unlike System 11B boards, the System 11A board still has the same switch section layout as the original System 11 MPU, making it easy to identify.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 CPU Driver Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 11B MPU. Note that a large portion of the sound circuitry, including the TDA2002 amp, was not stuffed in late System 11A boards or any System 11B MPU boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11B MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11B MPU can be used in all System 11 games too. If used in one of the four first System 11 games (Alley Cats, High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings), connector 1J15 and all of the sound amplification components must be added to the board. System 11A, 11B, and 11C games don&#039;t use the amplifier section of the MPU board. Sound amplification is accomplished on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the sound mixing section of the System 11A MPU is stuffed with different resistor and capacitor values than that of the System 11B MPU. This may cause some sound quality differences as has been noted with EarthShaker.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CPUWilliamsSystem11C.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 11C MPU. Note that none of the sound circuitry, including the 6802 processor and 6821 PIA, is stuffed in System 11C MPU boards. All sounds were generated by the sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;System 11C MPU&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11C MPU can be used only in System 11C games since none of the sound processing circuitry was stuffed.  It can be used in games prior to 11C, if the sound section is populated.  However, some of the components needed are rare and / or costly, and there are a fair amount to install.  If there is no other choice but to use this board, it is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Picture of the lamp column portion of the lamp matrix of a System 9 MPU board.  Note that the TIP42 drive transistors were removed from this board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The lamp matrix is made up of two parts - the lamp columns (drives) and lamp rows (returns).  In most cases, the lamp row consists of eight 2N5060 predrive transistors and eight TIP122 drive transistors, while the lamp column consists of eight 2N6427 predrive transistors (WMS sometimes used MPS-A14 instead) and eight TIP42 or TIP42C transistors.  However, there are some instances, as shown in the pic to the left, where the predrive transistors for the lamp columns are 2N6548s.  It is unknown why Williams chose to use these transistors on occasion.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Switch Matrix Explained=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System9SwitchMatrix.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The System 9 Switch Matrix circuitry, as found in the Sorcerer manual.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Description&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At regular intervals, say 1 every msec or so, the 6808 microprocessor scans the switch matrix. This is done by pulling one switch column to ground, then sensing the switch row return state. Each row on which ground is detected means that the switch at the intersection of the column grounded and the detected row ground, is closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Hardware Detail&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 writes the column data to the address location occupied by the 6821 at U15 on the board. This causes the 6821 output registers (PB0 – PB7) to propagate the data to a 74LS244 octal buffer at U45. The 74LS244 mirrors that same data at it&#039;s output pins. The data pattern on these output pins will have all bits set to logic “1” except one bit, which will be set to logic zero, or electrical ground. The ground is applied to the base of a 2N3904 transistor (which had been held high by a 4.7K SIP pull-up resistor SR8) where the ground is applied to the switch column (called switch matrix drives on the schematic).&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Closed switches connected to that column will then cause the normally high (via yet another pull up resistor, SR16) gate at a 74LS08 quad NAND gate (U51 and U52) to be pulled to ground. This NAND gate enables the circuitry to detect a switch closure returned via either connector 1J9 or 1J10.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6808 then “reads” the row returns by reading from the address space occupied by the same 6821 at U15 used to pulse the column strobes earlier. This time it reads 6821 registers PA0 – PA7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, the processor knows which column it drew to ground, and it knows which rows were caused to be pulled to ground via closed switches attached to the column. From this information, the closed switches can be identified. Genius. Bania: “I&#039;m tellin&#039; ya Jerry, this switch matrix stuff is gold Jerry, it&#039;s gold!”.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switch diode isolates the switch in the matrix. Without this isolation diode, multiple simultaneous switch closures will cause false returns and confuse the processor. A switch diode that is open will always prevent a switch from registering, in the same way that a broken wire or failed open switch would.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jumper Settings and Locations for System 9 &amp;amp; 11 MPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are charts of the jumpers on System 9 &amp;amp; 11 boards.  Rather than listing the boards by their platform (System 11A/B/C), each chart is listed by the numbers stenciled on the circuit boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10749-00 REV. C (System 9)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W2, W5, W6, W7, W9, &amp;amp; W12.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1 / W2|| Below U12  || Microprocessor Internal RAM Enable. W1 IN, W2 OUT when using 6802, reverse when using 6808 || U12 RAM can be removed with 6802 and W1 installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W3||  ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| ||   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Left of U49 || Country jumper. Remove for German factory settings, add for US factory settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U5 || Along with W7, used to send +12V to opto rows   || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U5 || Along with W6, used to send +12V to opto rows  || Typically installed, but not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +12v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W9|| Below connector IJ9 || Ties resistor network SR15 to +5v  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10|| Below U50  || Installed - sounds from CPU board can be played without speech board attached  || Typically not installed, except Strike Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W11|| Below U37 ||  Used when U19 game ROM 2 is used || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| Below U36 || Used to increase U20 game ROM 1 size from 2764 to 27128 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. - (Typically System 11)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, &amp;amp; W7.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below U48 || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-10881-00 REV. B (Typically System 11 - Referred to as Prototype System 11a in text above)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU    || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Blanking signal to input &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; of U48 LED decoder chip  || not present on first pcb revision&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12091-00 REV. - (Typically System 11A)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W12, W13, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W18.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5|| Below U39 &amp;amp; U38 (PIA chip) || Used to apply +5v to SR14 resistor network  ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6|| Below U30 &amp;amp; U27 || Used to apply +12v to SR14 resistor network  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs || Country jumper. Remove for German text and settings, add for English text and settings || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| Below U23 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5764-12206-00 REV. A (Typically System 11B &amp;amp; 11C)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typically installed jumpers are W1, W2, W4, W5, W7, W8, W11, W14, W16, W17 &amp;amp; W19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Jumper&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Purpose&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|W1|| Below U15 CPU chip || Ties crystal to clock input (pin 39) of U15 CPU   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W2 / W3|| To the right of U25 RAM chip || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W4|| Below U31 (to the right of U25) || Used to increase the ROM size  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W5 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U25  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W6 || Above U25 RAM chip || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U25  || only 2K will be used from the factory&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W7|| Below diagnostic LEDs ||  Remove for German text, add for English text || This jumper is not used in games with 16 digit score displays. Instead, install the U26 and U27 EPROMs for country and game. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W8 / W9|| Below U24 (sound CPU chip) || Used to choose what to use as /RST for U24 sound CPU || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W10 / W11|| To the right of 3 radial caps in reset section|| Choice of +18v (W10) or +12v (W11) for sound amplifier ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W12|| A resistor below U10 PIA || Pull down resistor for E1 (pin 1) and E2 (pin 19) of U11 &amp;amp; U13 address line buffer chips  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W13|| A resistor below U16 data line buffer chip || Pull down resistor for /E (pin 19) of U16 data line buffer chip  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W14 / W15|| Below U29 || 1ms IRQ signal (W14 in) or 2ms IRQ signal (W15 in)   || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W16|| Below U27 || Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U15 CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W17|| To the left of U24|| Ties XTAL (pin 38) of U24 sound CPU chip to ground  || Only cut when using Hitachi 6808 or 6802 MPU at U24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W18 || Below U23 || Used with 8K x 8 6264 RAM at U23 || only 2K will be used. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|W19 || Below U23 || Used with 2K x 8 6116 RAM at U23 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS1|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS1 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - leave out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (lower of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|DS2|| Left of U13 ||   || Marked as DS2 on board (upper of 2 jumpers) - keep installed up to 11B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Combining the System 9 Sound ROM Images====&lt;br /&gt;
Pinside user, &amp;quot;Dumbass&amp;quot;, has created replacement System 9 MPU boards.  One of the new things that he implemented in the board design is a daughterboard that can be mounted to the main MPU, which handles the speech duties.  Therefore, the speech board with its sometimes problematic ribbon cable no longer has to be used.  However, the sound and speech chip code now has to be combined together on a 27256 PROM, which is used at position U49.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
The file pad.732 is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[File:Pad.zip]]. Below is how the code should be concatenated for it to work properly.  It is very similar to what is done for the System 9 code to be modified for a System 11 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Space Shuttle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sorcerer&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum = &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Comet&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Checksum =  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 + cpu_u49.128 = cpu_u49.256&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Converting the System 9 ROM Images to work in a System 11 MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to create System 11 compatible ROM images from System 9 ROMs.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS/Windows &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; commands to accomplish this for the System 9 games, are shown below (space formatting added for clarity).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The file &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; is a special file and is not part of the released ROM images. It is a 4K (4096 Bytes) binary file filled with 0xff. Create it using your favorite hex editor, or download the file here: [[file:Pad.zip]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 CPU works out of the box with a 27128 EPROM at location U27. You may choose to double the ROM image, creating a 27256 image so that its size is consistent with the other System 11 U27 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove jumper W8 and install jumper W9 on the System 11 CPU to enable sound to work properly. System 11 controls the sound reset via software. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Space Shuttle=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sorcerer=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u21.128 + cpu_u21.128 cpu_u21.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u22.128 + cpu_u22.128 cpu_u22.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.732 + cpu_u20.764 cpu_u20.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;pad.732&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;+ cpu_u19.l2.bin + cpu_u20.l2.bin cpu_u20.l2.128 &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.l2.128 + cpu_u20.l2.128 cpu_u27.l2.256   &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sorcerer is the only System 9 pinball game using 2 ROMs which make things complicated for repair. You can use the cpu_u20.128 image in a system 9 CPU jumpered for Space Shuttle or Comet. If you install W12 and remove W11 the CPU will be jumpered for a 27128 EPROM. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Comet=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font face=&amp;quot;courier&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy cpu_u49.128 cpu_u21.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b spch_u7.732 + spch_u5.732 + spch_u6.732 + spch_u4.732 cpu_u22.128&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b cpu_u20.128 + cpu_u20.128 cpu_u27.256 /b    &amp;lt;=== This command doubles the 128K image into a 256K image&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech 2532.JPG|100px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board Using 2532 PROMs (from Space Shuttle)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board.JPG|140px|thumb|right|System 9 Speech Board Using 2732 PROMs (from Comet)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The speech board used in the three System 9 games, Space Shuttle, Sorcerer and Comet is essentially the same as the speech board used in System 6/7 games. However the speech board was enhanced during the Space Shuttle run. Four jumpers were added to accomodate either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs. When burning EPROMs, make certain which style of ROM is used.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Early Later.JPG|140px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board - Left unit is from early Space Shuttle, right is from later Space Shuttle]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Only the early Space Shuttles use 2532 EPROMs from the factory. Later Shuttles, Sorcerer and Comet use 2732 EPROMs.  The later speech board is backward compatible. If using such a board, either 2532s or 2732s can be used for the first two System 9 games (or System 6/7 games), provided that the jumpers are set for the appropriate EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to the speech board generating speech sounds, it mixes the sound and speech signals via the potentiometer on the speech board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsSystem11BackgroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Background Sound board as found in High Speed]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11197 Road Kings Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11197 Background Sound board as found in Road Kings]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsD-11297BackGroundSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D-11297 Sound board as found in Pinbot, fully populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-11298 Pinbot Sound.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11298 Sound board as found in Pinbot. This version only has U4 populated (U19 is not).  Uncertain why U19 is needed.  Note that the CVSD &amp;quot;lane&amp;quot; of the board is not stuffed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System_11_Sound_Board.JPG|400px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound board, not completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound board, completely populated]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated, with W10/W11 Jumpers. W10/W11 enable use of 512K sound ROMs as found in all System 11C games like Game Show, Dr. Dude, Pool Sharks, Rollergames, Diner, Radical, and Bugs Bunny]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS D-12238 Jokerz Sound.jpg|500px|thumb|right|D-12238 Sound Board - specific to Jokerz! only]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem11PSPreBigGuns.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Pre-Taxi Power/Regulator Board. This power supply has had the header pins replaced and the 5V filter cap at C10 replaced. Note that this board has the 20A fuse for the GI still installed. This indicates that it is an early System 7 board. The fuse and it&#039;s holder should be replaced by a wire in all System 9 and 11 games]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_B.JPG|200px|thumb|right|WMS Power Supply - Revision B (Pinbot)  Note that the top fuse holder just below the large 15000uF capacitor is broken on the left side]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These power supplies use obsolete parts at Q1 (SDS-201) and Q3 (SDS-202). The PCB print was used from Black Knight through Swords of Fury, with slight modifications. Up until and including Fire!, Q1 and Q3 were the obsolete SDS-201 and SDS-202. Starting with some Fire!, the board uses an MJE15030 at Q1 and an MJE15031 at Q3. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-201 at Q1 may be &amp;quot;6557&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9057S&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers printed on an SDS-202 at Q3 may be &amp;quot;MDS60&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;9058S&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlyWMSPowerSupplyTraceRoutingErrorCloseUpAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A closeup of the corrected trace routing error on a Fire! power supply board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There was a trace routing error on the original Fire! power supply pcbs. WMS cut the trace and used a jumper to correct the error. This error was corrected in the PCB layout at the start of &amp;quot;Big Guns&amp;quot; game production.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_PS_5765-09466-01_rev_E.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WMS Power Supply - Revision E (Cyclone)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Big Guns and games after, the solenoid and lamp power power sections were no longer stuffed because they were relocated to the Aux Power board. The GI relay is also missing on these boards because discrete GI relay boards were placed under the playfield and/or behind the backbox lamp insert.  By doing this, specific GI strings could be turned on/off versus &amp;quot;all or none&amp;quot; of the general illumination.  This later board has the fuses only for display and 5V power. In a pinch, the unstuffed parts could be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Big Guns, 2 100mA (1/10A) SB fuses are installed just to the left of the power supply in the backbox. These fuses protect the +100V and -100V circuits against shorts. Not all games used 1/10A slo-blo fuses. Some games used 1/8ASB fuses instead. This may have been due to 1/8ASB fuses being more readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics for this power supply also list part numbers MPSD52 and MPSD02. The equivalent part number for an MPSD52 is a 2N5401. The equivalent part number for an MPSD02 is a 2N5551.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Regulator Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSPSSchematic1503015031.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Schematics for Taxi and After Power/Regulator Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply was used from Taxi thru the remainder of the System 11 game production. &lt;br /&gt;
Note that Taxi used an early revision of the board. The placement of some of the resistors and zener diodes in the HV section of the board is different than later board. Exercise caution when you do board work. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===50V Flipper Power Supply Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Williams50VPowerSupply.jpg|220px|thumb|left|50VDC power supply as used in System 11 (nothing) and 11A games (C-9939).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games all used the 50V power supply board as pictured at left. This simple board takes 48VAC from the transformer secondary and uses a 35A/400V bridge rectifier to produce about 50VDC. The voltage is smoothed somewhat by a 100uf electrolytic capacitor. The transformer secondary is protected from a short in the bridge rectifier by either a 4ASB or a 5ASB fuse. Be sure to consult the manual for your game for the proper fuse value. Never overfuse a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Power Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
At least two different revisions of the Aux Power Board were used in System 11B/11C games, pictured below.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Auxiliary Power Board from Space Station (D-11813-552)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System 11 Power.JPG|400px|thumb|center|Auxiliary Power Board from Earthshaker (D-12247-568)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Interconnect Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Interconnect.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Backbox Interconnect Board from Space Station]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System 11 Lamp Board.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Earthshaker]]&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board was essentially designed for ease of manufacturing and assembly.  When Williams ultimately settled on using the same unit in all games, (give or take some parts here or there), modularity was apparent too.  There was no longer a need to build complex, custom wiring harnesses between the CPU / driver board, backbox insert, and playfield.  The interconnect board remedied this issue.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanzaiRunInterconnect.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Backbox Interconnect Board from Banzai Run]]Although the first four System 11B games, which include Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone use some form of an interconnect board, it wasn&#039;t until Swords of Fury when the interconnect board was used as a standard for the remaining System 11 games.  The interconnect for Banzai Run (shown on the right) is completely different from anything else used by any game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The interconnect board used in Swords of Fury uses a different part number, D-12185-559, compared to later System 11 games that used part number D-12313-x (x denotes the game&#039;s model number). They are not interchangable. Swords of Fury and Taxi had lane change switches still mounted on the cabinet. With later games lane change switches were removed and two optocouplers at position U2 and U3 (connected to the switch returns) were added to the board. The circuit is essentially the same as was used in early WPC games and enabled elimination of problematic physical lane change switches from the game. Starting with Jokerz, the third coupler at position U1 is used by the game software to check if the A/C relay on the aux power board is working.  U1 transmits information back to the MPU as switch 2 on the switch matrix, provided that the A/C has energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The early versions of the interconnect board were located on the left side of the backbox and positioned vertically.  The more common interconnect boards were located in the backbox positioned horizontally, just below the CPU board.  The later board passes the following circuits:&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp general illumination circuits&lt;br /&gt;
*flipper power and ground&lt;br /&gt;
*lamp columns and rows&lt;br /&gt;
*switch columns and rows &lt;br /&gt;
*flash lamp power&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What differentiates the board from game to game are the resistor values used for the flash lamp power circuits.  In some cases, some of the resistors are left unpopulated and / or a zero ohm jumper is installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Master Display Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (C-8363)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 SS Sorc Master Display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|C-8363 Early System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This is the same master display that is used on all System 6A and System 7 games and is used on most System 9 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 (D-10749)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10749.jpg|200px|thumb|left|D-10749 Late System 9 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This master display board was introduced during the System 9 run and is mostly found in some of the later Comets that were manufactured.  The major difference between this master display board (D-10749) and the previous master display board (C-8363) is the D-10749 board replaced the card-edge connectors used on the C-8363 with pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any System 9 machine that is wired with card-edge connectors to use a C-8363 master display board can be converted to use a C-10749 master display board by re-wiring to use pin-type connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the mapping of the connectors &amp;amp; pins from a C-8363 to a C-10749 to aid in this conversion:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!D-10749 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!C-8363 Connector-Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 16&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-14&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 15&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-16&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 14&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-17&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 13&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-13&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 12&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-12&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 11&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-15&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-7&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-8&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 10&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J8-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 9&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 8&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-2&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 7&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-11&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-3&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 6&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-10&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-4&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 5&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-5&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-6&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 3&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-7&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-8&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J9-9&lt;br /&gt;
|Strobe 1&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-1&lt;br /&gt;
|D1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-2&lt;br /&gt;
|C1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-3&lt;br /&gt;
|B1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-4&lt;br /&gt;
|A1&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-5&lt;br /&gt;
|D2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-8&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-6&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-7&lt;br /&gt;
|C2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-7&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-8&lt;br /&gt;
|B2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-9&lt;br /&gt;
|A2&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-10&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-18&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-11&lt;br /&gt;
|Comma 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;br /&gt;
|J5-1&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J10-12&lt;br /&gt;
|Blanking&lt;br /&gt;
|J7-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-1&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-5&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-2&lt;br /&gt;
|KEY&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-3&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-6&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-4&lt;br /&gt;
| +100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-5&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C.&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-4&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|J11-6&lt;br /&gt;
| +5 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-3&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| -100 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
|J6-1&lt;br /&gt;
|N.C. on D-10749&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 (Discrete Displays High Speed to Pin Bot and Banzai Run)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-10877.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 11 Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-10877WithAlternate7180.jpg ‎|200px|thumb|right|System 11 Master Display Driver Board with UDN7180 &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot;. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Aaron Gross&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The image at right shows &amp;quot;daughter cards&amp;quot; that replace UDN7180 chips, which were beginning to be become expensive and harder to obtain during the production run. The daughter cards use discrete transistors, much the same way as one version of the older System 3-6 Master Display Panel did. U9, U12, U13, and U14, originally UDN7180s, have been replaced on this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A (Millionaire / Early F-14)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11414-1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 11A Millionaire Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
This pcb actually came out of an early F-14 where they were recycled. Millionaire had it fully populated with additional lamp covers. The mounting brackets for the later D-11610 display changed so if you get a replacement for your F-14 first check which one is used in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11A/B (F-14 to Swords of Fury)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-11610.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 11A/B 4 7 Digit Segmented Displays Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (Taxi and Police Force)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 11B Display Driver Board D-12232-2 for 2 16 digit segemented displays + one external connector for a 7 digit display]]&lt;br /&gt;
Taxi and Police Force uses a D-12232-2 master display with J4 ribbon connector stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Taxi and Police Force. You would need to add U3 (6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connector J4. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B (all other WMS 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12232.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 11B/C Display Driver Board D-12232-1 for 2 16 digit displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11C (Riverboat Gamber)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12232-3.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 11C Display Driver Board D-12232-3 for 2 16 digit displays and 2 connectors for 7 digit jackpot displays]]&lt;br /&gt;
Riverboat Gambler uses a D-12232-3 master display with all ribbon connectors stuffed. If it&#039;s missing from the game, any other dual 16 digit alphanumeric can be used to make it work with Riverboat Gambler. You would need to add U3 and U4 (both a 6118), resistors R10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 (10K) and connectors J4 and J6. Jumper W1 should be added to connect the two center segments g&#039; and m&#039; on the lower display to form one large center segment g&#039;. Jumper W2 should be added to light the comma on the jackpot display. Remove resistors R54, 56, 57, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67. The removal is these resistors makes the lower display essential a numeric display. This display can also be used in Police Force and Taxi.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11B/C (all Bally 11B/C games)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Bally-L16-Display.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WMS Bally left side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-D-12502-1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WMS Bally right side 16 digit Master Display Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Other Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Overlay Board (C-13287)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlWindSoundOverlayBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Williams &amp;quot;C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board&amp;quot; as found in WhirlWind.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This relatively simple board was used on Whirlwind only to accommodate 5 additional solenoids (flashers or motors). The board logically sits between the System 11 MPU and the sound board, intercepting data normally sent directly to the sound board, and acting on that data only when specific codes are commanded. The board also relays data not specifically intended for it, on to the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====High Current Driver Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS C-12493 High Current Driver Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Williams C-12493 High Current Driver Board from Earthshaker]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The high current driver board was used on Earthshaker to drive the shaker motor. It was used on several other Bally/Williams WPC games while designated different part numbers.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Space Station Opto Position Board (C-11872)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SpaceStationOptoBoardC-11872.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Williams C-11872 Space Station Opto Positioner PC Board Assembly]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is unique to Space Station. The &amp;quot;blobs&amp;quot; at Q1 and Q2 (both 2N3906s) in the picture at left are clear silicone caulk used to dampen vibration on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Remotely Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Flasher Board Pinbot.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Flash Lamp Resistor Board (from Pinbot)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The earlier design of flash lamp resistor board was mounted under the playfield within in the vicinity of the flash lamp circuit(s) that were powered by it.  Each board had a maximum of 4 power resistors (2 per flash lamp circuit).  The higher resistance resistor is 330 ohm 7 watt, while the lower resistance resistor is 5 ohm 10 watt.  The purpose of the larger value resistor is to keep the flash lamp powered with minimal voltage.  This keeps the flash lamp filament &amp;quot;warm&amp;quot;, which puts less of a strain on the flash lamp.  In turn, it is supposed to extend the life of the flash lamp. The smaller value resistor is used as a current limiting resistor which allows the solenoid voltage to be supplied to power the flash lamp.  By powering the flash lamps with solenoid voltage, it eliminates the need for an additional, dedicated secondary transformer winding. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Flash Lamp Resistor Board (Centrally Located)====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=170px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Flash Lamp Resistor Boards&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Big Guns Resistor Board.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-557(Big Guns)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:CycloneBigGunsFlashlampBoardD-11814-564.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-564 (Cyclone)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS_Space_Station_Resistor_Board_D-11814-552.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11814-552(Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were used on early System 11B games prior to the use of the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.  The board is located in a very awkward location.  It is screwed to the back of the lower cabinet. Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone all have this board in this location.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistors on the board &amp;quot;eat current&amp;quot; (limit current) since the 13V #89 flash lamps are wired to coil voltage (about 38VDC). When implementing this board, Williams chose to change the wire colors as the circuit passes through the board. Combined with the generally poor Williams System 11 documentation, this makes it tough to track down problems with non-working flash lamps. On the plus side, the wire wound cement resistors on the board do not fail often, probably due to the location of the board (resistor boards located under the playfield have high resistor failure rates due to heat and vibration).  However, they obviously can fail. If there is power at the flash lamp, but grounding the flash lamp transistor does not light the lamp, the associated drive transistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp resistor boards were abandoned after Space Station.  Flash lamp circuits and resistors became integrated into the &amp;quot;standardized&amp;quot; interconnect board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====A/C Relay====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early AC Relay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A/C relay board (early design ie. F-14, Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|200px|thumb|right|A/C relay placed on aux power driver board starting with 11B games (later design)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Road Kings, System 11 games make use of what is referred to as an A/C relay.  The purpose of the A/C relay was to drive twice the amount of coils and flashers by using half the amount of drive transistors.  This process is commonly referred to as &amp;quot;multiplexing&amp;quot;.  Typically, if the A/C relay was at rest, the &amp;quot;A side&amp;quot; solenoids would engage.  When the A/C relay was powered, the &amp;quot;C side&amp;quot; flashers would engage. However, there were sometimes solenoids multiplexed with other solenoids.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, High Speed, which does not use an A/C relay, uses 8 discrete drive transistors to drive solenoids / flashers 1-8.  Pinbot, which does use an A/C relay, uses the same 8 discrete transistors to drive solenoids / flashers.  However, a total of 16 solenoids and flashers (A side and C side) are driven.  By employing the use of an A/C relay, the System 11 MPU / driver board could be used for many more years without a &amp;quot;drastic&amp;quot; redesign.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Initially, the A/C relay was located on a small circuit board under the playfield for System 11/11A games.  Likewise, this A/C relay board did not have Molex header connections.  Wires were directly soldered to the circuit board.  Once the Auxiliary Power Driver Board was introduced with the System 11B platform (starting with Big Guns), the A/C relay was moved to this board for all subsequent System 11B/11C games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the example of the A/C relay shown in the pic on the left, the only way to discern that the A/C relay is the highlighted relay board is due to the wire colors soldered to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Diode Board for Multiplexed Solenoids====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board. As Found.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diode board as found mounted to the bottom of the playfield (Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Diode Board.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Diode board from Pinbot]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Space Station Aux Power Driver D-11813-552.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diodes from diode board moved to aux power driver board starting with 11B games]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Motor Control Board (D-12045)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:D-12045.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Williams &amp;quot;D-12045&amp;quot; as found in Cyclone, Jokerz!, Riverboat Gambler and Diner.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in 4 Williams Games&lt;br /&gt;
* Cyclone ... for the random award wheel&lt;br /&gt;
* Jokerz! ... for draw poker (the wheel has various cards pictured on it), &lt;br /&gt;
* Riverboat Gambler ... for the backbox roulette wheel and&lt;br /&gt;
* Diner ... for the clock hands count time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board uses a single U-opto to detect the wheel at the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; position. The MPU implements an &amp;quot;open loop control system&amp;quot; stepping the motor to the desired position while assuming that each step was successful. The game flags an issue with the PCB/motor assembly when the software thinks that the wheel should be at the home position but the opto beam hasn&#039;t been broken by the opto interrupter on the back of the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Coils===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Flippers.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Serial wound flipper coils as seen on earlier (pre F-14 Tomcat) System 11 / 11A games (pic from Pinbot)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|right|200px|thumb|Wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Placeholder for Parallel wound flipper coils as seen on later (post F-14 Tomcat) System 11A/B/C games (pic from xxxx)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Parallel_Wound_Flippers.jpg|right|200px|thumb|Wiring schematic for parallel wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Later games (starting with F-14 Tomcat) used parallel wound coils, which have 2 diodes on them.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games use different parallel wound flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application.  Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |System 11 Flipper Coils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Color&lt;br /&gt;
!Strength&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11753 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weakest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11722 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weaker ||24-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11630 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Standard ||23-600 series wound similar strength&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11629 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Strongest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CoinDoorButtons.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Example System 11 Coin Door Buttons. The Advance button is missing it&#039;s black cap, and yes...that is a bit of soft drink spooge on the bracket.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The coin door buttons for system 9 and 11 games are shown at right. The function of the three buttons is (from left to right in the picture)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset High Score to Date&lt;br /&gt;
*Auto Up/Manual Down&lt;br /&gt;
*Advance&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Function of the Reset High Score to Date is self explanatory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Auto Up/Manual Down (AUMD) button is interpreted by the game software in multiple ways. Starting from attract mode, if the AUMD switch is up, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter audits and adjustments mode. If the AUMD switch is down, pressing the advance button causes the game to enter diagnostic mode. With the AUMD button in the up position during many of the diagnostic tests, the next step in the test will be automatically entered. For example, display test will display each digit on the display in turn. Coil test will advance through each coil. A particular step of the test may be paused on by pressing the AUMD button down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Advance switch moves the diagnostic, audit, or adjustment to the next step (or previous step if the AUMD button is down, except in diagnostic mode).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When in adjustments mode, the credit button is used to zero, turn off, or turn on features.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; One of the adjustment settings (adjustment 69 on High Speed for example) can be used to clear all of the game audits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the end of all diagnostic tests, the game will enter audits next, and then adjustments.  To exit diagnostics, audits, and / or adjustments, either advance until the last adjustment, or simply turn the machine off.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Transformer Power Selection Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 11 Power Selection Jumpers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys11 Transformer Power Selection.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Typical power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 115VAC (from Space Station)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System11European220VSelection.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;European power selection connection for a System 11 transformer - 220VAC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;1 - Black, 4 - White, 3/6 - Orange.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;Image courtesy of Chuck Sanderson&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Sporadic Problems in General - System 9===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Headers.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Cracked Header Joints and Headers cut too deeply by factory on System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the previous Williams platforms, the System 9 platform is prone to cracked solder joints on the header pins.  Likewise, Williams&#039; board manufacturers had some tendencies to cut the header pins too short on the solder side.  By cutting the pins too short, the cuts partially go through the solder meniscus.  Cutting through the solder meniscus makes a solder joint less reliable, and it may prematurely fail over time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By having cracked solder joints and / or cut solder meniscus, sporadic issues may occur.  To resolve a cracked solder joint issue, the best approach is to completely remove the old solder, and add new solder to the joint.  Due to dirt and contaminants, simply adding solder to the existing joint is not sufficient.  If the header pins are cut too short, an attempt to remove the solder and new solder can be made.  However, in some instances the only resolution is to replace the header pin connector.  It is recommended to use a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-79.asp high quality replacement header].&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Rectifier Fuses====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Fuses_Added_Before_Lamp_Solenoid_Bridges.JPG|left|thumb|200px|Fuse holders with 8 amp slo-blo fuses added to one of the AC inputs to each of the bridge rectifiers. (Pinbot)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A design flaw carried over from the earlier systems was the lack of fuses on the two bridge rectifiers used for the solenoid and controlled lamp power.  In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game should blow, but that&#039;s not always the case.  If the primary power fuse fails to blow, the wiring from the transformer to the bridge becomes the fuse.  The end result is not pretty!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On games before Big Guns, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp fuse installed (Williams opted to use an 8A normal blo, while Data East chose to install 8A slo-blo fuses).  For Big Guns and games after, an 8A normal blo fuse was added before the controlled lamp bridge. As for the solenoid bridge, there was a design change with the addition of the auxiliary power driver board.  The +25v and +50v solenoid bridges were added to this board.  Both bridges were fused with 4A slo-blo fuses. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A nice solution for this problem in the Inkochnito Bridge Board.&lt;br /&gt;
Goto http://www.inkochnito.nl and click on the Bridge Board image for more information.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate to the 12 position wafer connection====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE-WMS-System11PSCN1Alternative.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The severely burned wafer connector at Data East equivalent of J1 here has been replaced with parts currently available. Pins 5 and 8 are not populated as those connections are not used.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 position &amp;quot;wafer&amp;quot; connector (CN1 or J1 for Williams games), can be replaced with currently available parts, shown at left. The original &amp;quot;wafers&amp;quot; are difficult to find and pricey.&lt;br /&gt;
Part number for the alternate connector is Molex 03-09-2121 or 03-09-2122. &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply Missing 5v Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
If an aftermarket Rottendog WDP011C power supply is missing 5v, and other common causes of a missing voltage have been ruled out, then it&#039;s likely that the 5v regulator at U191 has failed. An available replacement is the Texas Instruments PTR08060 5v regulator from [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/PTR08060WVD Mouser] or [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/PTR08060WVD/1698955 Digikey].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rottendog Power Supply - Big Guns &amp;amp; Cyclone GI Comes On, Game Doesn&#039;t Boot====&lt;br /&gt;
If using the now obsolete Rottendog WDP011A power supply for Williams Cyclone or Big Guns, the +12v jumper may have to be moved from the bottom jumper location to the top. If a Rottendog equipped Big Guns or Cyclone turns on the GI lights, but the game doesn&#039;t boot, (only the 5v light on the CPU is lit), this is most likely the reason.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 MPU Jumpers===&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, jumpers on the MPU board do not require modification. The default configuration works for all System 11 game ROMs. However, there are 5 exceptions as follows...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W7 - Language Select Jumper&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
W7 is used only in games up to Cyclone. Games with 16 digit alphanumeric displays do not use this jumper. If installed, the game automatically reverts to English after losing the content of the RAM. If a different language is preferred, the &amp;quot;adjustments&amp;quot; menu provides an option to change the default language. Only a few early System 11 game ROMs contained multiple languages. For these games, if W7 is removed, the game generally defaults to German text. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later System 11 games used language specific ROMs at U26 and U27.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W16 and W17 - Hitachi CPU select&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11Hitachi6802.jpg|200px|thumb|right|A Hitachi processor, installed at U15, with W16 cut (lower right of pic)]]&lt;br /&gt;
The W16 jumper, on original System 11 boards, is in a different location and used for backwards compatibility with system 9 boards. There is no need to change it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 11A and later boards:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
*W16 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U15, the CPU responsible for most game operation.&lt;br /&gt;
*W17 is connected to pin 38 (XTAL) of the 6802/6808 at U24, the CPU for the sound subsystem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These two jumpers are used to indicate the manufacturer of the 6802/6808 microprocessor since the clock circuit of Hitachi microprocessors is different from the clock circuit of other manufacturers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If U15 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W16. &lt;br /&gt;
If U24 is a Hitachi microprocessor, remove or cut W17.&lt;br /&gt;
Otherwise, W16 and W17 should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Hitachi microprocessor can be used in System 9 and System 11 (nothing) MPU boards by simply lifting pin 38 out of the socket. Cutting the pin is not recommended since there may be need for that IC in another board. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;W5/W6 and W18/W19 - RAM Type Select&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C MPU board provide the ability to use either a 6116 or a 6264 RAM at locations U25 and U23 (sound subsystem).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U25&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W5, remove W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W5, install W6 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;U23&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;...&lt;br /&gt;
*install jumper W19, remove W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6116&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove jumper W19, install W18 to use a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6264&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
====Steps for Repairing a Dead MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
Following is an ordered, disciplined process for reanimating a dead MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Inspect for Alkaline Corrosion. Abate all corrosion properly before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test for valid 5/12/-12VDC power to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify correct jumpers are installed (or not installed) for Hitachi 6802/8 processors. More info [[Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11_MPU_Jumpers|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
#Note and address any error messages displayed upon boot (if any).&lt;br /&gt;
#Validate the ROM images.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test socketed chips in a known working board or chip tester.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify a proper clock signal to the 6802/8 processor at pin 39.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the reset circuitry is providing a valid &amp;quot;low and then high&amp;quot; reset signal at pin 40 of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to test for activity on the IRQ (pin 4), Address and Data pins of the 6802/8.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a logic probe to ensure that the bus buffer chips at U11 and U13 (address, R/W, and external clock), and U16 (data) are correctly mirroring the input signals to the output signals.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Leon&#039;s test ROM to ensure that each 6821 PIA is receiving the correct chip select and data to produce valid outputs at pins 2 through 17. More information regarding use of Leon&#039;s test ROM can be found [[Leon_Borre_Williams_System_11_Repair|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Normal Game Boot Behavior====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Boot Display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 9 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for System 9 is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the diagnostic display on the MPU. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will light during boot up, and continue to stay lit, as long as the game is on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Diagnostic7Segment.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 11(nothing) MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with a 7-segment display on the MPU is to show a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; in the display. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; does not go away. The &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; will continue to be displayed under normal boot conditions.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DiagnosticLEDs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs as found on a System 11A, 11B, and 11C MPUs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with 3 LEDs instead of the 7-segment display on the MPU is for the &amp;quot;+5 VDC&amp;quot; LED to light first and stay on, then a split second later, the blanking LED will light and stay on. At the same time that the blanking LED lights, the diagnostic LED will begin to blink at a fairly rapid pace with a 50% duty cycle (equal durations of the LED being on then off). The blanking LED will continue to remain on.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LEDDiagnosticsIn7SegmentGame.jpg|200px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs driven by game software expecting a 7-segment display as in High Speed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 11 MPU with 3 LEDs is installed in a game whose original board contained the 7-segment LED diagnostic display first introduced with the System 7 board set, the status of the 3 LEDs won&#039;t help much. The game software is attempting to display a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; (assuming your game boots correctly) on a 7-segment display. Since the board contains just the three LEDs, the MPU circuitry merely lights all three LEDs as shown in the picture at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====MPU Boot Error Codes====&lt;br /&gt;
MPUs used in System 9 and 11(nothing) games display a code on a 7-segment display if an error is detected during boot. MPUs used in System 11A, 11B, and 11C games use the Diagnostic LED to blink a &amp;quot;codes&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 9 MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U18 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6808 processor&#039;s ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Game ROM 2 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal stuck, coin door closed, memory protect circuit faulty, or the U18 CMOS RAM faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;System failure. Occasionally, the following components can contribute to this problem: U21 (4MhZ crystal), components in the IRQ circuit, broken leads or failed C9 (22uF) in the reset section, or loosely seated ICs on the CPU board. Note that boot code &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; is the hardware default and characteristic of the CPU &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; signal not complying with the proper low-to-high spec at pin 40.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Game ROM 1 faulty&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the game is locked up, there may be a bad power supply.  The 5 volt logic supply is the first one to check.  Then, check the 12 volt supply, which is used to reset the CPU chip.  Test for both DC (correct voltages) and AC (too much ripple on the DC circuit).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11(nothing) Games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 11(nothing) MPU 7-segment display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;These error codes assume that either High Speed, Grand Lizard, or Road Kings ROMs are installed since those were the only three games shipped with this version of the MPU board containing the 7-segment display. Later System 11 MPU boards replace the 7-segment display with 3 discrete LEDs that indicate 5V presence, diagnostics execution, and blanking status. While the System 11(nothing) MPU board works fine with other/later game ROMs, the 7-segment display with later game ROMs doesn&#039;t provide useful information other than some confidence that the software is running correctly. With later game ROMs installed and the MPU booting properly, the 7-segment display will appear to alternate rapidly between &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; (as fast as the &amp;quot;Diagnostics&amp;quot; LED would be flashing in a System 11A through 11C MPU board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U25 CMOS RAM &amp;quot;stuck bits&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6802 processors ability to communicate error free with the RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 Game ROM checksum failure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Blanking signal &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;, or the coin door is closed, or the memory protect circuit is faulty, or the CMOS RAM at U25 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Other or no indication&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;General system failure. Check the 5VDC power supply as well as the integrity of game ROM 2 at U26.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A zero displayed during Memory Chip Test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is NOT functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11A, 11B, 11C games=====&lt;br /&gt;
The following table lists the number of blinks of the DIAGNOSTIC LED, the error message that might be displayed, and the explanation (Source: Williams System 11A game manual. with embellishment).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FFFFFF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; MEMPROT FAILURE, (use browser page search to find in page link)&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Code&lt;br /&gt;
!Message&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;no message || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U25 RAM FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;The RAM at U25 could not be used properly. This means that the RAM failed a read/write test at power up.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;The game will remain in the current state and no other tests are performed until the game is turned off, then back on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;MEM. PROT. FAILURE&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;This message means that either:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;a) the Coin Door may be shut,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;b) the Memory Protect Switch may be stuck in the ON position,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;c) the memory protect logic is protecting the memory, or&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;d) a U25 RAM failure is occurring.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U51 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U51 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U38 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U38 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U41 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U41 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U42 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U42 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U54 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U54 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U10 PIA FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The PIA at U10 has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;IRQ FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;The interrupt request line is not working normally. It may be missing, stuck, too fast, or too slow.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U27 failed checksum (test 11 is skipped).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 ROM FAILURE || &amp;amp;nbsp;U26 failed checksum.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All of the above failures (except #9) may mean that the device has failed but it may also mean that the 6802 microprocessor is unable to communicate adequately or properly with the device. For example, if the CPU is attempting to checksum the game ROM at U27, but one of the 8 data lines leading to U27 has been severed, the wrong data will be received by the microprocessor and the checksum test will fail even though the ROM is perfectly fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An U25 RAM failure can occur without actual 6116 RAM failure.  One of the most common reasons why U25 RAM failure occurs is lack of power to the RAM chip.  If the D1, 1N5817, diode shorts open, logic power will no longer have a pathway to the U25 RAM.  However, if the D2, 1N4148, blocking diode is fine, and the battery holder and batteries are fine, power will be retained by the U25 RAM.  Although, the batteries will die prematurely if D1 has shorted.  Another reason why U25 is no longer powered by the +5VDC logic power is due to a severed trace either caused by a blunt object or battery corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An interesting side effect to the U25 RAM failure blink code is that the blanking LED will blink 10 times after the single blink from the diagnostic LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== U51, U27, and possibly other boot message causes =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SocketWornOut.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This OEM System 11 MPU socket is tired, worn out, and no longer provided solid contact with the ROM chip legs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 MPUs booting with error codes, blinks, or messages on the display may need new sockets for the game ROM(s). In the picture at left, it&#039;s easy to see light right through the socket holes (note the brown background vs the white background). The metal female connections have fatigued over time and are no longer providing a solid mechanical connection to the ROM chip legs. Removal and replacement with a quality dual wipe or machine pin socket is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This situation can cause a wide variety of boot problems including complete failure to boot, &amp;quot;U27 ROM failure&amp;quot; message, &amp;quot;U51 failure&amp;quot; message, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, the root cause could be due to many other reasons. The fairly complicated chip select logic outlined on sheet 4 of the System 11 MPU schematics could be the cause. The best way to attack the problem is with a logic probe, ensuring that the various chip select gates are yielding the intended logic states.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Five &amp;quot;Knocks&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes when turning a system 11 game on, the knocker will fire 5 times, causing most folks to wonder, &amp;quot;what the hey&amp;quot;?. All that knocking is designed to call the operators attention to a potential switch issue. Like the &amp;quot;credit dot&amp;quot; in later Williams games, including System 11 games that support the dot character, these 5 knocks mean that the game hasn&#039;t detected the closure of a particular switch (or switches) in a certain number of games. A message will be displayed indicating which switch or switches to examine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Usually, this is an indication of a failed switch. Most switches get closed during the normal course of game play, long before the game&#039;s software counts up to the limit of &amp;quot;games played without closing each switch&amp;quot; and issues this indication. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this issue, use the coin door diagnostic panel buttons to enter switch edge test. Manually close the switch. If a switch closure is indicated, either normal game play failed to close the switch (you&#039;re not a very good player), or the switch is dirty. Closing a switch with your finger is different than closing a switch with a ball. Your finger generally pushes more firmly on the switch contacts. Clean the switch by dragging an old business card or piece of paper between the switch contacts while pinching the switch blades together with your fingers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Caution: do not attempt to adjust switches with anything metal while the game is turned on. You will eventually short coil or lamp power to the switch matrix, damaging the MPUs switch matrix circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If closing the switch manually doesn&#039;t register in switch edge test, see the &amp;quot;switch problems&amp;quot; section of this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AdjustFailureMessage.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door closed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; message seen in the picture at left occurs when the game software can&#039;t make sense of the information contained in the battery backed RAM at U25. This could be because the RAM has failed, but this is unlikely. The vastly more common reason is that battery backup power has been interrupted to the games battery backed RAM because either the batteries are not installed, dead, or dying. Hopefully, they haven&#039;t made a mess of the board by leaking alkaline. See below. &amp;quot;Adjust Failure&amp;quot; is displayed under these conditions when the coin door is closed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that on some games (not certain if all) which use two 16-digit alpha-numeric displays, the message displayed will actually read &amp;quot;AJSTMENT FAILURE&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FactorySettingMessage.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The typical &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; message on a System 11 game, coin door open.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the coin door is open under these conditions, the message &amp;quot;Factory Setting&amp;quot; is displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Testing for Battery Backup Power at the RAM (U25)=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U25_Ram_Test.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Game off. Meter set to DC volts. Black lead on game ground. Red lead on RAM pin 24.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing for power at the RAM chip is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Set DMM to DC volts (or on less than 20V if not using an auto-ranging meter)&lt;br /&gt;
#Game off&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead on backbox ground&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on pin 24 of the RAM as shown at right&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three AA batteries normally provide 4.5VDC. If you are reading some voltage, but not quite 4.5VDC, the batteries need to be replaced...and don&#039;t forget to move them off of the MPU board while you are at it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other causes for low or no battery backup power to the RAM chip are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode D2. This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC source from &amp;quot;charging&amp;quot; the alkaline batteries. D2 is a 1N4148.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed diode D1. This blocking diode normally prevents the 5VDC battery backup power from powering parts of the board other than the RAM chip. In this case, the batteries will deplete rapidly. D1 is a 1N5817.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cross Connecting Black and White Backbox Connectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The infamous System 9 connectors that can be cross connected. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In one of the biggest mistakes in pinball manufacturing, Williams used two identical 24 pin .062 connectors to connect cabinet and backbox wiring. The connectors are identical with the exception that one is black and one is white. During manufacturing, the wrong color connector was sometimes used. Bottom line: do not simply mate black to black and white to white. Instead, ensure that the wire colors going into one side of the connector are the same as the wire colors coming out the other side. This is the only foolproof method of avoiding the catastrophe of cross connecting circuits, causing certain damage to the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The damage can include, but is certainly not limited to, U41, U9, the game ROMs, and one or more 6821s.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:YT.png]] A YouTube video demonstrating the repair of a System 9 MPU that was damaged in this way can be found [https://youtu.be/uoYKRJFnm-I &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 9 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|120px|thumb|left|Leaking Battery]]&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3xAA batteries off the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don&#039;t look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If &amp;quot;04 00&amp;quot; in the credit/match display is seen when the game is turned on, the game is in audit mode versus attract mode.  Below are several reasons why the game has defaulted to audit mode.&lt;br /&gt;
* The batteries have failed and need replacing.&lt;br /&gt;
* The battery voltage is not reaching the U18 (5517-2) RAM. Check pin 24 of U18 for approximately 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v with the power off.  Lack of battery backup power could also be due to an open D3 (1N4148) blocking diode.  This diode is used to keep the CPU&#039;s logic power from charging the batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
* Blocking diode D2 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off. &lt;br /&gt;
* There are other problems, such as a faulty 5517-2 RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simply removing the batteries will not allow a game to boot directly into &amp;quot;attract mode&amp;quot; when switched on.  It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores.  However, a System 9 game will boot, and is still playable with the lack of batteries.  To complete the boot sequence into attract mode, open the coin door, switch the game off, and then quickly back on. The game should leave audit mode, and go into attract mode.  Credits would need to be added from the coin door, and if necessary, settings would need to be changed before starting a game.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
The best option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea.  You can easily remove the battery pack from the board.  Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement.  If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position.  Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead.  This will prevent the batteries from being charged and &#039;cooked&#039; by the game if blocking diode D3 on the MPU board fails.  Keep in mind that adding a secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory by .5 to .7 volts (the typical voltage drop across a diode) if D3 is still good.  Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 remote bat.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
On the System 9 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack&#039;s voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board.  All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot; are somewhat common.  Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save you some headaches.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS Sys9 D2 D3.JPG|200px|thumb|left|D2 and D3 Diodes Highlighted on a Williams System 9 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D3 blocking diode.  An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective.  Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board&#039;s +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack.  This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on.  Alkaline batteries do not like being charged.  They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly).  In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged.  Testing the D3 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out.  When in doubt, replace the D3 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack.  Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5517-2 RAM memory, if D3 is still good.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Relocating the battery from the System 11 MPU board ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RemoteBatteryHolderSystem11.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A remote battery holder installed on a System 11 MPU. The purple wire is positive.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Installing NVRAM instead of batteries ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM DIP.JPG|200px|thumb|left|RAMTRON DIP NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Cyclone)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NVRAM SMT Adapter.JPG|200px|thumb|right|SMT adapted NVRAM installed on a System 11B board (Transporter The Rescue)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Like most other pinball mpu boards, the battery-backed RAM can be replaced with a non-volatile memory RAM (NVRAM).  Replacement RAM that can replace existing 6116 or a 6264 SRAM will be needed.  DIP versions are becoming scarce, but there are other solutions available that use surface mount equivalents on a small circuit board that plug into the RAM&#039;s socket.  Unfortunately, U25 is soldered in on System 11 boards from the factory, and would need to be removed to replace with NVRAM.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If installing any version of 6264 NVRAM on an 11B or 11C board, jumper W5 (located just above U25) needs to be moved to jumper W6.  This jumper has a completely different purpose on 11 and 11A boards.  6116 NVRAM will have to be used with 11 and 11A boards, or else modification with wire wrap will be necessary.  If 6116 NVRAM is used on 11B or 11C boards, jumper W5 does not have to be chaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several vendors who sell surface mount NVRAM on an adapter board.  The adapter in the picture shown on the right was purchased from [http://www.pinitech.com/products/cat_memory.php Pinitech].&lt;br /&gt;
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	&lt;br /&gt;
It has been documented that some variants of DIP NVRAM may need to have diode D1 replaced with a jumper or jumped around the diode, in order for the game to boot successfully.  D1, a 1n5817 diode, has a very low forward voltage drop (about 0.2 volts) vs. the normal 0.4-0.6 volts most other diodes have.  If replacing U25 with the memory RAM, some memory RAM will not unlock and allow writes until the voltage is 4.8 volts or so.  The 1n5817 D1 diode is just enough to prevent some memory RAMs from allowing writes.  To solve this, solder a jumper wire around the D1 terminals, or remove D1 entirely and replace with a jumper.  Surface mounted NVRAM on an adapter board is not susceptible to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing a Memory Capacitor Instead of Batteries====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11B Mem Cap.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Memory Capacitor Added to a System 11B MPU Board.  The circled areas show an added jumper for the cap&#039;s negative terminal to ground and a jumper added in place of the blocking diode.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11SuperCapInstalled.jpg|200px|thumb|right|An alternate method of adding a SuperCap. This style cap has two leads on the bottom of the cap. The negative lead of the cap is connected to battery ground via the red jumper wire. The necessary jumper across D2 is circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Another alternative is to install a memory capacitor. In essence, a memory capacitor is similar to a rechargeable battery, although, the likelihood of a memory capacitor leaking is greatly reduced compared to a rechargeable battery. When the game is turned on, it is charging the capacitor. When the game is turned off (this is where the memory cap slightly differs than a rechargeable battery) the memory capacitor slowly loses its charge over time. Therefore, it is imperative that the game periodically be turned on to allow the capacitor to charge up to its full capacity again. If a game will not be turned on for long lengths of time, a memory capacitor may not be the best solution.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing a memory cap, two things will have to be done. It will be necessary to add a jumper to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground or positive lead to the non-banded side of the blocking diode. The picture to the left shows a jumper added to tie the negative lead of the cap to ground on a System 11B MPU board. Installation on System 11, 11A, and 11C boards is similarly performed.  Secondly, the 1N4148 blocking diode (D2) will have to be removed, and replaced by current limiting resistor.  A value from 100 ohms to 270 ohms will work.  Once the capacitor is installed, and the board installed back in the game, it is a good idea to leave the game on for 15-20 minutes to allow the game to initially charge the capacitor to full capacity. After that, turning the game on monthly for about 10 minutes to allow the cap to recharge is a good idea.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Both photos show a jumper installed in place of the blocking diode.  It is recommended that a limiting resistor be installed instead.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:  It has been determined that memory capacitors are not the most effective way to retain memory on System 11 games, if the game will not be turned on for long lengths of time.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MPUDelicateTraces.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of the delicate traces under the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. Luckily, these cleaned up nicely.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11CorrosionCropped.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Closeup of traces under the battery holder. Corrosion (darkened spots) has invaded beneath the solder mask (green coating) and is beginning to eat away at the copper traces.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen at left, the traces on System 11 MPUs are very small. Not much alkaline damage is required to eat completely through these delicate traces. Unfortunately, there are a great many of these traces under the battery holder, and in a very vulnerable position to alkaline damage. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to the left of the battery holder is the reset section of the MPU. That section is, on balance, much easier to repair than the delicate traces under the battery holder and at the 6821 PIAs immediately under the battery holder.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The advice often dispensed to deal with alkaline corrosion is to scrub the affected area with an acid such as vinegar, rinse with water, and then rinse again with isopropyl alcohol. This might work for light surface alkaline corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, often the alkaline will eat into traces beneath the solder mask or beneath chips. This dictates desoldering affected chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces. The alkaline interacts chemically with the solder making it very difficult to heat. Desoldering from the (presumably undamaged) back side of the board is much easier. Scuffing the alkaline damaged solder with a wire brush to remove the surface layer of damage is also helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once all damaged components have been removed, sand the affected area carefully with your choice of fine grit sandpaper. 220 grit works well. The objective is to remove the corrosion completely without destroying additional traces. All corroded areas must be addressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, rebuild traces as necessary. Corrosion tends to sever traces where the trace meets the solder pad of a part. Strong magnification and bright lighting helps. Either tin or conformal coat the bare copper and then reinstall parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11AlkalineDamage-1-Annotated.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Another closeup of the delicate traces near the battery holder of a System 11 MPU. These traces are too far gone for a repair to be considered reliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingSRCPartsSystem11.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A 9 pin, 4.7K bussed resistor network replacing SRC5. Pin 1 is on the right]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AlkalineCorrosion.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A closeup of alkaline damage that has crept under the solder mask (the darker traces). Eventually, this corrosion will eat completely through the trace, making the board unreliable.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TypicalSRC.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The OEM resistor/capacitor network.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the top of the board are a few &amp;quot;SRC&amp;quot; parts. These are 10 pin resistor/capacitor SIPs. The OEM part connects each driver line to a 4.7Kohm pull-up resistor connected to 5VDC. This guarantees that the signal is held at logic high until the PIA grounds the signal. The OEM part also connects each driver line to a high frequency noise filter capacitor (470pf). These parts are no longer available. A completely acceptable substitute is a 9 pin bussed, 8 resistor network (4.7Kohms) at positions SRC1 - SRC5 and SRC7 - SRC9. This part provides the pull-up resistor. In practice, the high frequency filter capacitor does not impact the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The part is installed as shown in the picture at right, with pin 1 of the part connected to the right side which is labeled pin 1 in the board silkscreen. A 10 pin (9 bussed resistors) part may be used ONLY if the left most pin is clipped and not connected to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An image of the original OEM part is shown at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another example of alkaline corrosion can be seen in the picture on the left. This damage can be cleaned up, retinned, and the board placed back in service.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (System 9)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetGenerator.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Reset section of a System 9 MPU board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem9ResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|200px|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator on a System 9 MPU.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The three electrolytic caps (all 100uf/25V), two inductors, and 5 ceramic caps (all .001uf labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;) are part of the 5, 12, and -12 volt power filtering circuitry. The D2, 1N5817 diode isn&#039;t needed if an NVRAM is used instead of a SuperCap or remote batteries.  However, a jumper must be installed at D2 to power the NVRAM.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset section of the System 9 MPU is almost identical to the System 11 reset section. As such, a modification similar to the mod outlined below can be performed on System 9 boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove resistors R6, R8, and R12. Really, all but R6 can simply be clipped off. One through hole at R6 will be used later.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove transistor Q4&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a reset generator (MCP120-460GI/TO) where Q4 was removed. Orient the reset generator the same way that Q4 was oriented, matching the PCB silkscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper from the upper leg of where R6 was removed (oriented as shown in the picture, upside-down from game installation) to the via that is about 1/4&amp;quot; southeast of the R6 connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it. Most of the rest of the reset circuit can be removed, but this provides no advantage since those parts are already &amp;quot;out of circuit&amp;quot; with this modification.  After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary to power the sound amplifier on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9ResetMinimum.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Another image of the bare minimum part requirement when using a modern reset generator. The three electrolytic caps are all 100uf/25V. Note that the right most electrolytic cap is oriented backwards from the other two. The 5 ceramic caps are all .001uf and are labeled &amp;quot;102&amp;quot;. These are sometimes called 1000pf ceramic caps.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MCP130 reset generator variant, with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used too, but it isn&#039;t necessary. This is because the resistor at R170 provides an external 4.7K ohm pull up for the /RESET line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the reset generator has a longer reset delay than the OEM circuitry. At boot, the 7 segment LED will seem to show a &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; for a fraction of a second. It will turn to a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and remain &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; after that, assuming that the board is booting properly.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System9Inductor1.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumpers&amp;quot; where inductors are normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System9Inductor2.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Factory installed &amp;quot;zero ohm jumper&amp;quot; where an inductor is normally installed on a System 9 MPU board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some System 9 MPUs shipped from the factory with zero ohm jumpers installed instead of inductors (see images left and right). When repairing alkaline corrosion, it&#039;s completely acceptable to replaced damaged inductors with jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternative to Rebuilding the Reset Circuit / Using a Reset Generator (All versions of System 11)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Section.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Reset section of a System 11A MPU board.  Components to be removed are circled.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Reset Gen.JPG|thumb|right|200px|Reset section with reset generator and jumper installed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an alternative to the stock reset circuit on all versions of the System 11 MPU boards. A reset generator can be installed. Since the reset section of all versions of the System 11 MPU board is susceptible to battery damage, this is a very easy, and minimalistic way to rebuild the reset section. To do so, 4 components will need to be removed and a jumper installed. The following work will have to be done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the Q39 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the following resistors - (from top to bottom as installed on the board) R58, R60 (these two are just below the Q39 transistor), and R69.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add reset generator MCP120-460GI/TO (also used on Data East MPUs) where Q39 was. Orient the reset generator in the same manner Q39 was oriented (pin 1 of reset generator will install in the bottom through hole). In other words, the &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; side of the reset generator will face to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
#Add a jumper between the right pad of R58 and the right pad of R60 (both resistors have been removed).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This a very simple, and in some cases, cheaper alternative to repairing the existing reset circuit. After this modification is performed, the MPU board will no longer need the +12v to successfully boot. However, +12v is still necessary for the sound section of the MPU on most boards, except the 11B and 11C variants.  Likewise, any of the other components in the reset circuit can be removed if desired. Please consult the System 11 MPU board BOM and schematics to determine exactly what components can be removed. The MCP120-460GI/TO reset generator can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics.  The MCP130 variant with an internal 4.7K ohm resistor can be used, but it is not necessary.  This is because resistor network SR19 pin 3 is an external 4.7K ohm resistor used to pull up the /RESET line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is a prime example of where a reset generator is very handy.  The amount of components replaced are reduced from 15-20 to 1.  Note that because this was an 11B board (also true for 11C boards), there is no sound amplifier on the board.  Hence, the +12v is not needed at all, and none of the parts related to the +12v were repopulated.  If this were an 11(nothing) or an 11A board, the +12V inductor (can be replaced by a simple jumper), the W10/W11 jumper, and associated capacitors (C27, C28, and C29) would need to be populated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=330px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;A Prime Candidate for Using a Reset Generator (11B MPU Board Shown)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot.JPG|Battery alkali leeched into the reset section.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot WIP.JPG|Components removed, affected traces and pads cleaned and treated.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys11 Battery Rot Done.JPG|Components repopulated. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;The image above shows the single jumper and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11MinumunResetSection.jpg|thumb|right|330px|Another image showing &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;the single jumper (string tied to it) and the exact minimum parts required when using a reset generator (System 11B/11C). System 11 (nothing) and System 11A must retain a few more parts.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the above gallery pics, note that some components in the reset area had to be reinstalled.  These components are in the area of the reset section, but are not part of the reset circuitry. They are actually related to the game RAM, enabling CMOS power to reach the RAM and to control pin 18, the chip enable pin of the RAM. Without these parts, the MPU will not successfully boot.  Instead, there will be a &#039;&#039;&#039;single blink code&#039;&#039;&#039; from the diagnostic LED indicating a U25 RAM error (a &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; will display on boards with the 7-segment display).  If the game display is connected to the MPU board, a &amp;quot;U25 RAM ERROR&amp;quot; message will be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
*D1 - 1N5817 diode &lt;br /&gt;
*Q40 - 2N3904 transistor (a 2N4401 was used in this case)&lt;br /&gt;
*R64 - 1 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R65 - 10 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor &lt;br /&gt;
*R68 - 4.7 Kohm 1/4 watt resistor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And, once again, for a System 11 (nothing) or a System 11A MPU, both of which have onboard amplifiers in the upper left corner and require 12VDC power, be sure to retain or replace the following parts:&lt;br /&gt;
*L2 - 4.7uH inductor (or a simple jumper)&lt;br /&gt;
*C27 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C28 - .001uf/50V ceramic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
*C29 - 100uf/25V electrolytic capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Connecting a logic probe to the MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Logic Probe.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Logic Probe connected to System 9 MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Logic Probe.JPG|220px|thumb|right|Logic Probe connected to System 11 (11A) MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, +5v and ground can always be acquired at any one of the bypass capacitors, which are located at most every chip, and simply labeled as &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 comp PSU.JPG|200px|left|thumb|System 9 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 comp PSU.JPG|200px|right|thumb|System 11 MPU connected to a PC power supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 1J17 power connection is essentially the same for System 9 and all variants of the System 11 MPU boards.  The ground connection can be attached to pins 1 through 3.  The +5vdc connection can be connected to pins 4 through 6.  -12vdc gets connected to pin 8 and +12vdc gets connected to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 games are far more tolerant of low line conditions vs. the newer WPC games.  Some things to check if the game is resetting are the usual culprits for this type of thing:  connectors, filter capacitors, slam switches, bad chip sockets, etc.  It is good preventative maintenance to replace the +5 volt filter capacitor on the power supply with a new one; most of these are 25+ years old and might be getting to the point of wearing out.  Certainly replace them if you are getting resetting on your system 11 game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most system 11 games give an indication that they&#039;ve been slam tilted; if you&#039;re getting a &amp;quot;game reset&amp;quot; but you get a noise and/or a message on the displays beforehand, it is probably a slam switch issue vs. a true reset issue.  Check all the slam switches in the game (usually the coin door is the main one, and also the ball roll tilt if present).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
====A/C solenoid/flasher problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11AuxDriverBoard.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board, showing the A/C select relay, the clear &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; at the top, center of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The A/C select relay is a dual &amp;quot;make/break&amp;quot; (DPDT, double pole, double throw) relay that supplies power to either the &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; or the &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. It is located on the Auxiliary Power/Driver Board for games that use the board which was introduced with Big Guns and used on all subsequent games. For games prior to Big Guns, like F-14 Tomcat, the relay is probably located under the playfield. There are exceptions. High Speed and Grand Lizard do not use an A/C select relay. Road Kings uses one for a handful of solenoids, but this game did not follow the 1-8 solenoid convention which games after it adopted.&lt;br /&gt;
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There are a couple ways that the A-Side / C-Side (A/C after this) relay circuit can fail. If the driving transistor (Q8 for Big Guns and later, Q7 for games prior to Big Guns, and located on the MPU board) shorts, the A/C select relay will be constantly energized, resulting in flashers firing when coils should have fired. If the driving transistor never switches the A/C select relay on, coils will fire when flashers should have fired.  &lt;br /&gt;
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Testing this behavior is easy. Use the diagnostic buttons to select solenoid test, and watch carefully to see what fires. The display will show the coil/flasher under test. The first 8 drive circuits tested will have an &amp;quot;A-Side&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;C-Side&amp;quot;. That is, circuits will fire in the following order: 1A, 1C, 2A, 2C, ... 8A, 8C. If the A/C select circuit is not working correctly, the same coil or flasher will fire twice in a row, once for the A side and once for the C side.&lt;br /&gt;
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The A/C select relay is generally solenoid 12 in coil test. Placing the &amp;quot;Auto Advance&amp;quot; button in the up position, to repeatedly test solenoid 12, should allow you to hear the A/C relay clicking on and off.&lt;br /&gt;
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If all of &amp;quot;one side&amp;quot; of the A/C select circuit is not working, the fuse supplying the voltage to that side may be blown. F2 (DC side of BR1) and F8 (AC side of BR1) fuse the 25V circuit. F4 (DC side of BR2) and F7 (AC side of BR2) fuse the 50V circuit. Another suspect is fractured solder joints on the A/C select relay. Reflowing these solder joints is simple. The A/C select relay is relatively heavy and it&#039;s weight puts stress on the solder connection at the printed circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System11A-CRelay-OKOnBothSides.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing normal, working switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is rare for the A/C relay itself to fail. A possible source of trouble are the miniature contacts on the relay wipers. These are high power, high current, contacts that can be filed with a small point file to restore proper current carrying capacity.  Under no circumstances should you ever use contact cleaner on these contacts, as this could cause a spark or fire to occur. Be careful to not mangle the contact wipers in an attempt to adjust them. Adjust with care. 99% of the time, these switch contacts need no maintenance at all.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:System11A-CRelay-WeldedOnBothSides.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Williams System 11 Auxiliary Power/Driver Board A/C Select Relay showing &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; switch contacts.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a disassembled A/C select relay with both the A Side and the C Side connected at the center contact pads. It&#039;s rare for one of these relays to &amp;quot;weld&amp;quot; itself to both sides. In this particular instance, the game would fire both the A-side coil and the C-side flasher at the same time.&lt;br /&gt;
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Other failure points are the connectors and headers connecting the aux driver board to the main cpu/driver board. Fractured solder joints can affect the proper operation of the relay. It is good practice to replace, or at minimum, reflow the header pins, and to replace connector pins in their housings with new pins. System 11 games use .156 connectors in most locations.&lt;br /&gt;
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And finally, the solder joints holding the A/C select relay to the board may fracture and cause loss of connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
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On a related note, if the flashers never illuminate during game or test, but the A/C relay physically engages, likewise the flasher lamps are good, and power is present at the lamps, suspect potential failure of the U1 (4N25) U1 optocoupler on the interconnect board.  Starting with Jokerz, the U1 optocoupler on the D-12313 interconnect board was used to identify whether or not the A/C relay has engaged.  Under normal operation, if the A/C relay has engaged, the voltage on the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; side passes back to the optocoupler.  In turn, there is a switch on the switch matrix, typically switch 2, which receives the signal from the U1 optocoupler.  Note that U1 is on some previous games like Taxi, but it was not used.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Special solenoid problems with RottenDog MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:RottenDogMPUDIPSwitches.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left| RottenDog MPU with a red switch bank for selecting either Williams or Data East special solenoid implementation.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog aftermarket MPU board can accommodate both Williams and Data East special solenoid implementations. This is accomplished with an 8 DIP switch bank, pictured at left. If set to the wrong game system, special solenoids will not operate properly in your game.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Special solenoid problems====&lt;br /&gt;
Special solenoids on system 11 games are similar to the earlier variants used on all previous Williams&#039; boardsets.  During gameplay/test modes the primary switches on the special solenoids (usually the pops and slings) are active, allowing actuation of those switches to fire the solenoids.  This is done by grounding an input to a 7402 logic chip which in turn pre-drives a 2n4401 pre-driver transistor which drives a TIP122 darlington transistor to fire the solenoid.&lt;br /&gt;
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During solenoid test mode only, the secondary path to the 7402 is utilized instead to fire the solenoids.  Since there are 2 paths to fire the solenoids, it is possible for a special solenoid to work in game/test mode, but fail the solenoid test due to a failed PIA or 7402 chip, and vice-versa.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the primary switch associated with the special solenoid device. Therefore, System 9 special solenoids are not activated during solenoid test.&lt;br /&gt;
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If a special solenoid actuation switch locks on, the solenoid itself will lock on as well, (hopefully) blowing the associated fuse before blowing all or some of the TIP122/2N4401/7402 circuit.  An inline fuse holder can be added to all special solenoids with a 1 amp fuse installed to help prevent this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
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There is a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches.  The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal as well as to ensure a minimum pulse length for the solenoid activation.  If using a polarized capacitor the positive terminal goes to the tie point with one end of the resistor attached.  Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
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Most system 11B games do not use the special solenoids in the same way. Special solenoid switches were added to the switch matrix instead, keeping all or some of the solenoid pulses under CPU control. It is easy to identify whether a game has CPU controlled special solenoids by inspecting the activation switches on the special solenoids. If there are both a primary and a secondary switch installed, the game operates via the direct-fire special solenoid setup.  (Note that a secondary switch in the case of slingshots does not mean the normal 2nd switch all slings shots employ. Rather, it refers to a switch that only activates when the sling activates. It is installed near the pivot point of the sling arm underneath the playfield.) Also the secondary switches go to CPU connector J18. If nothing is connected to J18, then the special solenoids are CPU controlled. In games like BK2K only the kickers are CPU controlled while the pop bumpers still use the secondary switches.    There was no rhyme or reason (no definitive start / stop point) which System 11B titles used special solenoid secondary switches, and which did not. Please refer to the game list [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11B above] to determine which did / did not use the secondary switches. &lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMSSystem11Zener1N5234.jpg|200px|thumb|left|6.2V Zener Diodes (ZR3-ZR8) that &amp;quot;protect&amp;quot; the board logic from shorts between the sense switches and coil power. Note: in this image, ZR7 and ZR8 have been replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The usual cause of special solenoid circuit failure is a stuck switch that locks the associated solenoid on, causing the TIP-122 transistor to fail and the coil to get so hot that the winding insulation melts (causing a reduction of coil resistance, eventually approaching zero ohms). The zener diode (pictured, left) in the circuit may fail shorted as well. This will cause the associated coil to lock on even after repair of the other damaged circuitry since the zener is connected directly to ground. The shorted zener diode causes the 7402/2N4401/TIP122 circuit to react identically to a switch closure. Gack!&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;If your game doesn&#039;t use the special solenoid switch inputs as in most System 11B games and all System 11C games (i.e. no connection at 1J18), then these zeners serve no purpose and may be clipped off. &lt;br /&gt;
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====Unusual Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WhirlwindPinchedWire.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A pinched wire (white/brown) that causes a tough to find solenoid problem.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 11 method of securing boards sometimes causes odd problems. The securing screws must be removed completely to remove a board vs the improved WPC method of sliding the board off the screw head via a &amp;quot;keyhole&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
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When securing the boards, it&#039;s important to ensure that wires aren&#039;t pinched behind the board. If a wire is pinched severely enough, the insulation will be displaced and the conductor will contact the backbox ground plain, which can cause a wide range of odd problems.&lt;br /&gt;
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The wire in the picture shown at left happened to be the ground path for coil #1, the outhole kicker on Whirlwind. When the game was powered on, the coil would lock on until the blanking circuit became active. Pressing the diagnostic/audit coin door button would also result in the coil locking on. This was actually the A/C relay flipping to the coil side for diagnostics and providing power to the coils. The outhole coil had a path to ground via the pinched wire and would lock on. A game could be started and the coil appeared to work properly until &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;any&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; of the 1 through 8 coils were activated (when the A/C select relay would energize again). At that time, the outhole coil would fire at the same time as the other 1 through 8 coil.&lt;br /&gt;
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This one was a real head scratcher!&lt;br /&gt;
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===Flash Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11WarmingBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|System 11 (High Speed) warming board. Note that flashlamp  power is no longer routed through this board. The orange wire connects to two flash lamps wired in series which are then connected directly to flashlamp power. The two black wires are ground. The gray-blue wire is the path to ground via a drive transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 9/11 flash lamps are driven by the same kind of circuitry that drives solenoids. Flashers are generally wired two in series (like old Christmas lights). If one lamp fails, the neither lamp will light. They are wired in series so that they split the DC voltage across two lamps, preventing them from burning out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
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To make the flashlamps &amp;quot;agile&amp;quot; (i.e. turn on rapidly) and to extend the life of the flashlamps, a &amp;quot;warming&amp;quot; circuit was employed which connects two series flashlamps to coil power via a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor. This causes the lamp filament to turn on very slightly, and to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;, ready for the power to find ground via a 1 ohm (5 ohm in System 11) resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
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Over the years, these games have undergone &amp;quot;maintenance&amp;quot; to replace parts on the resistor board and have sometimes also been rewired, attaching the wires to different solder lugs on the flashlamp warming board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Warming boards are not shown in any of the System 11 documentation.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED flash lamps are installed instead of incandescent lamps, the 330 ohm warming resistor must be removed from the circuit.  If it&#039;s not removed the lamp will remain on, albeit not at full intensity. &lt;br /&gt;
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===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
This may seem painfully obvious, but with any lamp problem, where all lamps in the same circuit are not lighting, first see if the associated fuse is blown.&lt;br /&gt;
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====General Illumination Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
As a rule of thumb, general illumination (GI) lamp issues with System 9 or 11 games are dependent on the era of the game.  The reason for this is GI circuits passed through different boards over the years.  And, the majority of GI issues are typically due to the circuit board.  Not so much the circuit board itself, but the junction between the header pin connections on the circuit board and the connector pins located in the female housings.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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It is extremely common for the header pins and / or the female connections related to the GI circuit to heat up, and in worse cases char or burn.  When some of these games were in operation earning money, they could potentially be turned on for 8, 12, or more hours every day.  If the connectors were compromised at some time in the game&#039;s life, the issues become compounded.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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The problem is a vicious cycle.  If either side of the connector heats up, it creates more resistance.  If it creates more resistance, it draws more current.  If it draws more current, it heats up.  This cycle continues until the connector blows the circuit&#039;s fuse (provided the proper fuse is installed and not by-passed), the connectors are so bad that the circuit no longer has continuity, or the connectors are replaced with new ones.  It is recommended that both the male header pin connector be replaced and the associated pin connectors which connect to it.  Replacing only one side of the connector is only asking for repeat problems down the road.  Header pins rated for 7 amp are highly recommended as a replacement.  If the 7A headers are used, the likelihood of the connector failing due to heat is greatly reduced.  Likewise, the use of Molex Trifurcon connector pins are recommended.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Another prevalent problem is the failure of the relay board or the relay board connectors. GI relay boards are typically found under the playfield and on the back of the lamp insert panel. The job of the relay board is to switch the GI lamps on/off for special lighting effects. Over many years of operation, the solder joints on the connector may fracture.  Although it is more common for the male/female connectors to burn badly. Repinning these connectors, as is typical for GI connectors, is the prescribed fix.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
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=====Games From Space Shuttle to Fire!=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 GI Circuits.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Typical System 9/11 Power Supply with GI Drivetrain Notated]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During this time period, general illumination entered the power supply [1 / 2], was parsed, and exited the power supply as 4 separate circuits [4].  Although there were 4 discrete GI circuits with 4 separate fuses [5], all 4 circuits were turned on/off via one relay [3] located on the power supply.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Note that the factory connection on the power supply for System 9 games differs than what is shown in the picture. Connections [1 / 2] do not exist on System 9 games, and only two wires are used to input the general illumination instead of four.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Games From Big Guns to Swords of Fury=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone Interconnect.JPG|100px|left|thumb|The interconnect board from a Cyclone mounted to the left side of the backbox]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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With all the games mentioned in this particular section, there were some design growing pains.  Williams was creating a preliminary interconnect board, however, it was very different from game to game at first.  Therefore, GI issues may occur at the power supply connections, the interconnect board connections, and / or at one of the discrete GI relay boards used.  Since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
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A shown at the pic on the left, the general illumination headers, connectors, and connector housings have been changed out due to fatigue / failure.  This is a common failure point on games such as Big Guns, Space Station, and Cyclone.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Games From Taxi to Bugs Bunny&#039;s Birthday Ball=====&lt;br /&gt;
The games included during this era used a somewhat standardized interconnect board located below the CPU board.  The GI circuits coming directly from the transformer enter the board on the right side at connector J6.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  In actuality, the GI wires are only 4 wires, instead of 8 wires.  Once the upper 2 wires reach the board, each of them are daisy-chained through the insulation displacement connector (IDC).  Equally, the bottom 2 wires are connected in the same fashion.  This was presumedly done to reduce cost, and decrease the life expectancy of the connection as a whole.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS Interconnect BK2K GI Marked.JPG|left|300px|thumb|Williams Interconnect Board with general illumination wire colors marked.  Interconnect board is from a Black Knight 2000]]&lt;br /&gt;
The most typical header connections that fail on the interconnect board are J6 (the GI input and return) and J7 (the GI output and return lines to the backbox insert).  The purpose of the picture to the left is to easily identify what GI circuits pass through what connections.  This will aid in attempting to check the continuity of your rework, whether only replacing just one of the header connectors or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Please note that the wiring color codes for J6 in the pic are not the incoming wire colors.  The wiring codes in the pic are illustrated this way to determine where the GI circuits disperse throughout the board.  The game&#039;s schematics in the manual include this information too.&lt;br /&gt;
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Keep in mind that discrete GI relay boards were still used during this time period.  Dependent on the game, there may be one to three discrete GI relay boards used.  Again, since single-sided circuit boards were used for the GI relay boards, cracked solder joints where the relay is soldered to the board is possible in addition to the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
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======Repairing the General Illumination Input Connector / Wiring======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_Sys11_Butterfly_GI.jpg|thumb|200px|left|General Illumination input connector with looped (butterfly) wiring]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11 Interconnect GI Connection.jpg|thumb|240px|right|One method for repairing the GI input connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
From the factory, only 4 wires total were connected to the GI power and return input connector, which is located on the right hand side of the interconnect board.  With only 4 discrete connections per wire from the transformer, 8 wires are needed to connect to the interconnect board.  The top 4 wires are yellow and the lower 4 wires are yellow with a white trace.  To increase 2 wire connections to 4 wire connections, the wires connect to the IDC connector via one connector pin, pass through that connector pin, and loop back to another connector pin.  In doing this, the life expectancy of the connector and the header pins on the interconnect board are reduced (too much current for these connections to maintain over their lifespan).  The end result is typically burnt connector pins, housings, headers, and in some cases, the interconnect board too.&lt;br /&gt;
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To resolve the burnt connection issue, the header pins on the interconnect board should be replaced with new ones.  Preferably 7A higher current rated header pins.  As for the harness side, the housing should be replaced too, and Molex Trifurcon crimp pins used within the housing.  To compensate for the extra wires needed, each of the input wires will need a &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot; junction soldered in place.  To do so, take a small piece of wire approximately 4&amp;quot; - 5&amp;quot; long.  In the middle of the small piece of wire, carefully strip the insulation, leaving about 1/4&amp;quot; of exposed wire.  Place a piece of heatshrink on the single incoming wire.  Then, bend the small piece of wire at its center where the insulation is stripped, until both ends leads are nearly parallel with one another.  Take the incoming wire, and solder it to the exposed wire in the center.  The end result will look like a rudimentary &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot;.  Pull the heatshrink over the junction, and that&#039;s it.  This needs to be done for the remaining 3 wires.&lt;br /&gt;
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In addition to the wire modifications, you can also do a board modification. The J6 connector on the right side can be burned to a crisp. Often lifting pads under the printheader. To repair this you can add a jumper wire to the top 4 traces, connecting pin 1-2-3-4 together. This can also be done for the bottom 2 traces, connecting pin 6-8 together, but you are still missing pins 5 and 7 to be connected to 6 and 8. Turn the board over and solder a jumper over pins 5 thru 8. The same can be done for pins 1 thru 4. Now you have the best possible connection.&lt;br /&gt;
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file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_1.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board with Modification&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_2.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (front)&lt;br /&gt;
file:Bally_interconnect_board_Dr_Dude_3.jpg|Dr Dude Interconnect Board modification details (back)&lt;br /&gt;
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====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorLampMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing lamp matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistor.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|right|The same broken SIP resistor after removal.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Lamp Sockets=====&lt;br /&gt;
Failed lamp sockets are not very common with System 9-11c games.  If a specific lamp will not illuminate, spinning the lamp socket canister or solder tab can resolve the issue in some cases.  One thing to keep in mind is that all controlled lamp sockets have a diode soldered to two of the lamp socket tabs.  Due to this, the legs of the diode can get pressed against other leads on the lamp socket resulting in an electrical short.  The end result may be a lamp which shines more brightly than other lamps in the same column or row, or a whole lamp column or row will illuminate dimly when they shouldn&#039;t be lit at all.  The resolution is to inspect all associated lamps in the column or row, and look for solder tabs or diode legs touching where they should not be.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Lamp Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Pinbot, Williams introduced lamp boards.  Lamp boards were used in areas where lamp inserts were positioned too closely together, and it did not make logical sense (or it was not physically possible) to use individual lamp sockets.  With subsequent games, lamp boards were used whenever lamp inserts were &amp;quot;nested&amp;quot; in groups.  This trend was presumedly done to save on assembly and production costs.  One benefit of lamp boards is that bulb replacemnt became easier in most cases.  A simple turn of the twist lamp socket (WMS # 24-8767), and the 555 bulb could be removed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WMS Sys1WMS Sys11 Early Lamp Board.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Early direct solder lamp board as seen on Pinbot - the large color matrix below the top and right colored targets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generations of lamp boards had the lamp column and row wires soldered directly to the board.  On one hand, this is beneficial, because there is one less mechanical connection used in the lamp circuits.  On the other hand, it makes it more difficult to remove the lamp boards completely from the game to clean and / or service.  On the plus side, very little goes wrong with the direct wired lamp boards.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|200px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Two things that can fail are individual lamp circuit diodes or the solder pads can develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot;, where the twist sockets make physical contact with the board.  To overcome the divots, simply add a little solder, and carefully reflow the solder pads.  Make certain not to apply too much heat...just enough to evenly flow the solder.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With Fire!, Williams started using lamp boards with .156&amp;quot; header connections for the lamp column and row lines.  This allowed for easy removal and service of the lamp boards.  However, it introduced some new problems.  Because the lamp boards used were single-sided, (this was presumably a cost analysis decision), the .156&amp;quot; header pins can develop cold solder joints and crack due to vibration.  The problem can easily be rectified by removing the old solder from the header pins, and applying fresh, new solder.  This style of lamp board is susceptible to the same issues (bad diodes and divots) as mentioned in the direct wired lamp boards section above.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Adjacent Columns or Rows Lighting Simultaneously =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WilliamsS11ShortedLampColumnDrives.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Column drive transistor tabs touching, shorted together. Here, lamp columns 3 and 4 would light at the same time.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A problem seen fairly often is the tabs of either column drives or row returns touching, and therefore shorted and causing more than one column (in the picture at left) or row to light at the same time. If you have this issue, it&#039;s easy to quickly examine the column drive and row return transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Lamp Matrix Row and Column Testing =====&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using a jumper wire.  The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the lamp matrix columns and rows.  The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_columns.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP42 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns.  Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it&#039;s function is to prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix.  In this test we are only connecting a single lamp at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J7.  There is no pin 5 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a column doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q66&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q64&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q62&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q60&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q58&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q56&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q54&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J7-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q52&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_rows.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP102/122 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J6.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a row doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test. The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q80&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q81&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q82&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q83&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Grn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q84&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q85&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q86&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J6-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q87&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using MOSFETs in the Lamp Matrix Circuitry=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Procedure by Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The original Williams (and Data East) lamp matrix circuitry dissipates a lot of heat through the 27 ohm current limiting resistors. Often, this part of the circuit board is badly heat damaged. Using modern MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06), the heat (and power consumption) can be reduced substantially.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once MOSFETs are substituted for the TIPs in the lamp driver circuit, it is possible to replace the 27 ohm resistors with simple jumpers or even leave the 27 ohm resistors in place if they are in good shape as the low resistance will have a negligible effect on the operation of the MOSFET. However, the problem with either of these is that the MOSFETs are driven by 18 VDC Source to Gate voltage which is dangerously close to the absolute maximum rating of the IRF9530 and IRF9Z34 of 20 VDC (this also holds true for Data East MPUs). The FQP17P06 has a higher Vgs rating (25VDC) than either the IRF9530 or IRF9Z34N - but you are still driving the part at over 70% of its absolute maximum. Typical uses for these MOSFETs drive them by about 10 VDC Source to Gate voltage (or -10V for P-Channel MOSFET&#039;s used here).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DEMOSFETSchematic.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Typical &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation (left), &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation on right. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Marco Albus&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics shown at left compare the widely used &amp;quot;Zero Ohm Jumper&amp;quot; implemenation with the &amp;quot;Voltage Divider&amp;quot; implementation that uses two 1K, 1/4 watt resistors to divide the source 18 VDC in half. Doing so drives the MOSFET with a 9 VDC Vgs.&amp;lt;br  clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 9 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Front.jpg|200px|left|thumb|1K resistors and IRF9Z34N FETs installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Lamp Column FET Back.jpg|200px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q23-30&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R101, 103, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113, 115&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR5&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======MOSFETs Installed in a System 11 MPU Board======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Front.jpg|200px|left|thumb|1K resistors installed on the component side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 Lamp FETs Back.jpg|200px|right|thumb|1K resistors installed on the solder side of the board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*8 P-Channel MOSFETs (IRF9530, IRF9Z34N or FQP17P06)&lt;br /&gt;
*16 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt resistors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the TIP-42 transistors Q52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 27 Ohm resistors R82-89&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the 2.2K ohm resistor network SR16&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the 27 Ohm resistors, install 1K Ohm resistors&lt;br /&gt;
*In place of the TIP 42 transistors, install the P-Channel MOSFETs, oriented the same as the TIP-42s were oriented&lt;br /&gt;
*On the solder side of the board, install eight 1K Ohm resistors between the MOSFET gate and the 18VDC source.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System11_mosfet.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A very clean alternate implementation with resistors on the component side. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider DumbAss&#039;&#039;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shown at left is a very clean installation of all parts on the component side of the board. Note that the 1K resistors are situated such that the &amp;quot;body&amp;quot; of the resistor passes between the MOSFETs instead of the legs, thereby eliminating the possibility of a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.  Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Columns or Rows from n to 8 Inoperative====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BrokenSIPResistorSwitchMatrixColumn.jpg ‎|300px|thumb|left|A broken SIP resistor, causing switch matrix columns 5, 6, 7 and 8 to fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Row and Column Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU logic for the switch matrix can be tested by simulating switch closures using a jumper wire on both System 9 and System 11 (all revision levels) MPUs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMSSystem9SwitchMatrixTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing the System 9 switch matrix, but jumpering from pins on 1J8 to pins on 1J10.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As seen at left, testing the switch matrix rows and columns on a System 9 MPU is identical to testing on a System 11 MPU except for which connectors to use. The switch columns on the System 9 MPU at 1J8 are numbered right to left. The switch rows at 1J10 are numbered left to right. 1J9 is available (sometimes not stuffed) for opto switch processing, although this feature may never been used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 switch matrix operates on 5VDC. The switch columns at 1J8 are &amp;quot;strobed&amp;quot; by being pulled to ground successively by the 6821 PIA. The switch columns are normally pulled high via a pull-up resistor. If the switch at the intersection of the column and row is closed, when the column is strobed, the row will be pulled low too. In this way, the processor knows which column it strobed, and which rows return that strobe.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the system 11 switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_col.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix columns.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J10 pin 9, the leftmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated.  The test may report the switch name, refer to the switch matrix table in the manual to correlate the name to the switch number.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J8 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to row 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J8.  There is no pin 6 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire Colors&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Switch number&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J8-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Grn-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the switch matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_row.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix rows.  This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]] &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and go to the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.  This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J10 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper to 1J10 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to column 1 in the switch matrix table&lt;br /&gt;
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J10.  There is no pin 4 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Switch number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1J10-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Wht-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Shorted or non-working switch column====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One or more failed switch columns can be caused by a failed column drive transistor (Q42 through Q49, all 2N4401s) or a failed 1K SIP resistor pack at SRC6.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The column drive transistor part was changed with the system 11B MPU. System 9 to 11A MPUs use 2N3904 transistors at location Q42 to Q49 with 1.5Kohm inline resistors (R71 through R78). These column drive transistors fail quite often as these MPUs age. These 2N3904 transistors can be replaced with 2N4401s. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When System 11B was introduced, the switch column drives were changed to 2N5550s with 470 ohm inline resistors. The more commonly found, and beefier 2N5551, is a good substitute for the 2N5550. Before replacing the transistor, be sure which kind the board uses. Some early system 11B MPUs were stuffed with 2N3904s despite the schematics indicating otherwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A broken SIP can also cause a switch column not to work. This usually happens with System 11 and 11A CPUs. With 11B WMS also changed the switch section layout and eliminated most of the SIPs. The likely candidates are SRC6 and SR11. In the case of SRC6, measure resistance between pin 1 and 2 to 9. If it&#039;s broken it&#039;s usually open after pin 3 or 4. This is a bussed 1K SIP with additional 470pfd capacitors connected to ground and practically NLA. Fortunately the caps are not needed because they are also mounted on the board so it can be replaced with a standard 9-8 1K SIP. Pin 10 which is the common ground for the caps is not used here. SR11 is a standard bussed 560 ohm 10-9 SIP. Here you measure resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 to 10. Be aware that two types of SIPs are used on the board: bussed and isolated. If you suspect a different SIP has failed check the schematics for the pin layout. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS-Brokensip.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A broken resistor SIP.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is a broken resistor package similar to SRC6 but out of a System 11 master display. As can be seen, the part may look solid to the naked eye, but it&#039;s actually fractured.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ground Row Shorts====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSystem11CrackedSR11.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Note the fracture in the SIP at SR11. The fracture became apparent only after desoldering the part.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A possible cause for one or more ground row shorts (indicated by the game software on the score display during switch test) is a fractured resistor SIP at SR11 (a 560 ohm 10-pin bussed resistor network). SR11 is a pull-up resistor that is connected between each switch row return and 5VDC. If the return is not pulled up, that return will look like a low signal continuously, which the MPU interprets as a row ground short. Visual inspection of the SIP &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;might or might not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; identify the cause of the problem. A better test is to remove the switch row return connector (J10) and probe each pin with a logic probe. The logic probe should indicate &amp;quot;high&amp;quot; for every pin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Specific to the board pictured at left, a logic probe indicated that J10 pins 1, 2, and 3 were all high but the remaining pins had no signal at all. The fracture can easily be seen between pins 5 and 6 of the SIP (pin 4 isn&#039;t used) meaning that pins 6 through 10 were not connected to 5VDC and therefore not pulling the switch row return to logic high. Hence, the MPU declared a row ground short for rows 1 through 5.  Note that the actual fracture can rarely be seen prior to attempted removal of the resistor network from the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 4N25 Opto Couplers in the Switch Matrix====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:4N25System11InterconnectBoard.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Three 4N25 Opto Couplers on a Williams System 11 Interconnect Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games that include an Interconnect Board may use 4N25 Opto Couplers to detect power being applied to the flippers or to detect 28VDC being applied to the A/C relay (as in Rollergames). Pre-Fliptronic WPC games that use the -1 power/driver board also use 4N25 Opto Couplers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These opto couplers are connected to the game switch matrix. Detecting these switches is most often used for lane change and for entering HSTD initials. If one of these functions no longer works, the 4N25 opto couplers should be considered suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, testing an opto coupler is simple using the diode test function provided by most DMMs. Set the DMM to diode test, compare results against those pictured below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Testing a 4N25 Opto Coupler&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Internal.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The internal schematic of the 4N25. Pins 1 and 2 connect to an internal diode (LED). Pins 4 thru 6 connect to a PNP photo transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test3.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the diode connected to pins 1 and 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test2.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 5, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test1.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 4, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switches Not Registering with a Rottendog MPU / Driver Board Installed====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_Before.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:R-D_11C_Opto_After.jpg|200px|right|thumb|Modified Older Style Rottendog MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the opto switches are not registering at all in a game, and a Rottendog MPU board is being used, suspect that it is an older style board.  This board can easily be upgraded though.  U2 will have to be switched from a 74HCT240 to a 74HC240 chip, and RA5 will have to be changed from a 9-pin 4.7K ohm bussed SIP resistor network to a 9-pin 560 ohm bussed SIP resistor network.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 9/11 High Voltage Section Repair&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don&#039;t continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.  &lt;br /&gt;
====High Voltage Issues With the Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Check Voltages=====&lt;br /&gt;
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working.    &lt;br /&gt;
On the Power Supply Board, use a DMM set to DC volts with the - lead grounded, probe the following connector &lt;br /&gt;
pins to determine if the HV section needs repair.  If the display fuse, F1 is blowing, &lt;br /&gt;
you should remove the applicable display connector (with power off) before testing the voltages. Note that these are &amp;quot;loaded&amp;quot; voltages. If you are testing on the bench, or without displays connected, your measurements may vary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-11883 or D-12246:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 1 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J2 pin 3 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have Power Supply D-8345-xxx:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 3 = -100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3J5 pin 4 = +100 volts DC &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the test points are more than about 5 volts out of spec, then your HV section may &lt;br /&gt;
be malfunctioning (if you or a previous owner replaced Z2/Z4 with 1N4763A diodes to purposely reduce the display voltage, test readings in the 90&#039;s range would be normal).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check the table below for a solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Troubleshooting table=====&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Symptom&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Cause&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacement&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| 0V ON BOTH +100/-100 lines&lt;br /&gt;
| Check F1 &lt;br /&gt;
| 1/4 Amp SB&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D3&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR1, ZR2&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R1&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=5 | 0V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Open Diode D4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4004&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q4&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Zeners ZR3, ZR4&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Open Q3&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Open R4&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  rowspan=4 | F1 1/4 Amp Fuse Blows&lt;br /&gt;
| Bad Capacitor at C1 and C3&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Display&lt;br /&gt;
| Display Glass*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN7180&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN7180*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted UDN6118&lt;br /&gt;
| UDN6118*&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| +118V on +100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q1&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| -118V on -100V line&lt;br /&gt;
| Shorted Q2&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|  colspan=3 | * located on display board&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Displays Test With no Shorts&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Once the displays are tested and shorts are eliminated, we can proceed with the HV section repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Replacing the components in the HV Section&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Since there are not that many components, if you are having problems isolating the &lt;br /&gt;
fault, a quick solution is to replace all the components in &lt;br /&gt;
the HV section. If only one side (+ or -) is failing, it is possible to rebuild only the failing side.&lt;br /&gt;
Check the parts section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the replacement parts for one or both failing sides:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|  border=1 &lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;-Side Part&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  align=&#039;center&#039; | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+,-Location&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE340 (or MJE15030)&lt;br /&gt;
| MJE350 (or MJE15031)&lt;br /&gt;
| Q1,Q3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Transistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5401&lt;br /&gt;
| 2N5551&lt;br /&gt;
| Q2,Q4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4730A&lt;br /&gt;
| Z1,Z3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Zener diode&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| 1N4763A**&lt;br /&gt;
| Z2,Z4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| 39k Ohm,1W&lt;br /&gt;
| R1,R4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| 680 Ohm,1/4W&lt;br /&gt;
| R2,R5&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Resistor&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| 330k Ohm,1/2W&lt;br /&gt;
| R3,R6&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester&lt;br /&gt;
| C2,C4&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| Capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| 100uF,150V&lt;br /&gt;
| C1,C3&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| colspan=4 | **This is a 91V Zener to reduce the voltage to prolong display life&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;strong&amp;gt;Remove and replace HV components&amp;lt;/strong&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Stuff board with new components.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Leave a little space under components for air flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Bend leads on components so they won&#039;t fall out when board is inverted for soldering.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Solder the parts to the board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;Clip excess off leads&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE340/MJE350 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE340/MJE350 is the heat-sinked transistor.  On most Williams boards, this transistor pin configuration is not the same as the original part.  It will need to be installed vertically with heat sink attached to the transistor only.  The transistor will sit at about a 45 degree angle so the legs can be lined up to fit in the correct holes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check your board and insure correct orientation before soldering in place.  Late versions of the System 11 series boards were designed to use the pin configuration of the MJE340/MJE350 transistors.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Do not mount vertically if the power supply is designed to use the pin configurations of the newer transistors!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MJEInstall.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Note on installation of MJE15030/MJE15031 replacement transistors=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSSys11MJELegsCrossed.jpg|200px|left|thumb|High Voltage section with MJE15031 installed. Note the crossed legs on the left transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys11 PS Alt HV Transistor Pads.JPG|right|thumb|200px|Power supply with pads for both styles of HV transistors]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 are rated for higher power and can be used instead of the MJE340/MJE350 (the MJE340/MJE350 are well within design specifications and are suitable replacements at 1/3 the cost of the MJE15030/MJE15031). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MJE15030/MJE15031 pin configuration has the Base and Emitter reversed as compared to the MJE340/MJE350. In the image at left, the left transistor (MJE15031) shows one method of crossing the legs safely. The transistor&#039;s two left legs are shifted right on position. The third leg is then jumpered to the boards left through hole position.  If you prefer not to cross legs, this transistor can also be mounted vertically, but this transistor would be facing the opposite direction as compared to the MJE340/MJE350 pictured above.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some power supplies which have pads for both the SDS-201/SDS-202 or the MJE15030/MJE15031 style of transistors.  In the pic to the right, the MJE15030/MJE15031 transistors are installed from the factory, but there are solder pads just below for installation of the SDS-201/SDS-202 transistors. If installing ME15030/MJE15031, the upper pads are used, and no leg crossing is required.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready to test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the rebuilt power supply, return to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Check Voltages&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; section of this guide.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Other Resources&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9-11 HV section of the PSU is very similar in design to the earlier System 3-7.  So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Power_Supply_Issues|Sys 3-7 PSU Problems]] section entitled &#039;&#039;&#039;+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU&#039;&#039;&#039;, for more detail.  It also provides links to source complete HV rebuild kits which will normally cost under $10 shipped.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Panel Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segment Identification=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegmentLetters.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Alphanumeric and Numeric Segment Identification.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Segments Light &amp;quot;In Sympathy&amp;quot; With Other Segments=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ShortedSegments.jpg|300px|left|thumb|In this image, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; light simultaneously, even though only one segment should be lit. The last two characters illustrate the issue clearly. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider Pinball50.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Internal shorts within a display glass can cause segments to light &amp;quot;in sympathy&amp;quot; with other segments. That is, segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot;, for example, will both light, when only one of the segments &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;should&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be lit. Segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; is lit and segment &amp;quot;k&amp;quot; will light whenever segment &amp;quot;b&amp;quot; is lit. This is caused by an internal short within the glass. The short can be confirmed by &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;removing the leads of the associated segments from the PCB&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; and measuring resistance between them. The resistance should be infinite, or open.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, there is no way to repair the glass and it should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Fuse F1 Blows=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the UDN Chips&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the display fuse is blowing, you should check the display board for shorts before connecting&lt;br /&gt;
a new or rebuilt power supply to the display board, as a shorted display or chip can damage a good power&lt;br /&gt;
supply.  Remove the display board from the system.  The display characters are driven by the two types &lt;br /&gt;
of UDN chips, the UDN7180 &amp;amp; UDN6118 (or UDN6184).  Locate these chips (there are several)&lt;br /&gt;
on the board and test them with your DMM set to diode check.  Clip your + (RED) &lt;br /&gt;
lead to the ground trace of the board.  Probe the UDN chips as shown in the diagram.  &lt;br /&gt;
If any shorts are read in the tested pins, the display should not be connected to the power &lt;br /&gt;
supply until the shorts are corrected.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:UDNReading.png|left]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don&#039;t test the pins labeled &#039;dont care&#039;), the UDN&lt;br /&gt;
chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board.  Take care to preserve this chip,&lt;br /&gt;
as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace.  Now install an IC socket in its place.&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat the test with no chip installed.  If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing Display Glass=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change1.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed with glass nipple in proper location]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change2.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Replacement glass installed after circuit board was drilled to allow for glass nipple in different location]]&lt;br /&gt;
All plasma displays have a finite life expectancy.  Display glass replacements were and are offered in several configurations.  The differences in these configurations are mainly the placement or lack of a display &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; on the back of the glass.  The glass nipple is what can pose as somewhat of a problem, when replacing a display glass.  Williams did place a rather large hole in the display circuit board.  However, the placement of the glass nipple has changed.  To overcome this issue, a hole can carefully be drilled through the circuit board to allow for the glass nipple.  When drilling, drill successive holes, starting with a small drill bit first, rather than drilling one large hole.  This will reduce the chances of the circuit board &amp;quot;splintering&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At one time, [http://www.pinballpcb.com/Displays.html pinballpcb.com] did offer replacement displays and / or just the replacement display circuit boards.  Neither of these products are available anymore.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 7Digit Repair.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Original display glass was secured to its circuit board with double-sided, high tack, foam tape.  If this cannot be acquired, a simple method to secure an existing or new display glass is to use silicone caulk or RTV caulk.  However, in following this method, the glass must be supported on the board until the caulk cures.  Wrapping the glass with rubber bands is a great way to do this.  Once the caulk is cured, just cut off the rubber bands.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Logic States of Display Output Signals for a Working MPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
These logic states were recorded from a System 11A board. This board was running Swords of Fury code in display test mode manually paused with all characters / digits on &amp;quot;8&amp;quot;.  This is for games with a 4 x 7 display board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
L=LOW, H=HIGH, P=PULSE&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ3 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || H&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ2 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || None (Key) &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ1 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 1 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 3 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 5 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 7 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || None (Key)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 9 || P &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
!IJ22 (pin)&lt;br /&gt;
!Logic State&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2 || L || 1 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 4 || L || 3 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 6 || L || 5 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8 || L || 7 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 10 || L || 9 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 12 || L || 11 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 14 || L || 13 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 16 || L || 15 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 18 || L || 17 || L&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 20 || P || 19 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 22 || P || 21 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 24 || P || 23 || P&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 26 || P || 25 || L &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 9 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jumper Settings for a newer System 9 Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board jumpers.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Jumpers Circled on a Comet System 9 Speech Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned above, the System 9 speech board is essentially the same as the System 6/7 speech board. However, the newer speech board has jumpers added to increase the flexibility of EPROMs used.  Either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs can be used.  If using 2532 EPROMs, install jumpers W2 and W4, and remove jumpers W1 and W3.  If using 2732 EPROMs, install jumpers W1 and W3, and remove jumpers W2 and W4.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Sound or Speech Calls=====&lt;br /&gt;
To start a sound test, simply press the SW2 momentary switch at the bottom of the CPU board located between connections 1J16 and 1J17.  Once SW2 is pressed, the CPU will cycle through all of the sound / speech calls continuously.  Each System 9 game has a chart located in the manual, which lists the speech and sound calls made during test.  The benefit of the chart in the manual is that it lists the ROM where a particular call originates.  If a particular sound / speech call is not heard, the associated ROM listed for that call may be bad.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another result of speech calls missing is possibly a bad U2 or U3 on the speech board.  Both of these chips are 1458 op-amps.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Isolating the CPU Sound from the Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the sound / speech calls originate from the CPU board, while the remaining calls originate from the speech board.  If after running a game through sound test by pressing SW2, and some sounds are missing or very low in volume, a good idea is to isolate the CPU board from the speech board.  All of the sounds originated on the CPU board, leave the board via the 40 pin ribbon cable, and go to the speech board for mixing.  Once mixed, all of the sounds and speech are then returned to the CPU board, amplified, and sent out to the speakers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Much like the System 6/7 sound and speech boards, the sound can be isolated from the speech board for testing purposes.  The System 6/7 Type 2 sound board uses a jumper at position W1.  When jumper W1 is installed, the sound board can be diagnosed without the speech board installed.  The equivalent with the System 9 CPU board is jumper W10.  This jumper is typically not connected.  However, when it is connected, the sounds originating from the CPU board can be heard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Locate jumper W10 on the CPU board.  W10 is located to the right of SW2 on the board. There should be two very small wires clipped on either side of W10, as if W10 was installed and removed. Connect an alligator test lead across the short leads of W10.  If the short leads are not present, a short light gauge wire or wire wrap can be tack soldered to the solder pads of W10, or use a jumper wire to connect the lower legs of C32 and R76 which are just right of W10 (see pic, below).  With a jumper installed at W10, some sounds should be heard when SW2 is pressed. Sound test, via the coin door diagnostic button is likely to provide sounds for all but sound 7, which is a voice call. If no sounds are heard, further troubleshooting must be performed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=350px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Adding W10 to a System 9 CPU Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumper.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Locating jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumped.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Temporarily jumpering W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System9JumperTemporary.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Alternate for jumper W10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 11 Sound Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 games are known to &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; a bit. The &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot; is caused by electromagnetic interference from the lamp matrix insinuating itself on the sound circuit. To minimize the interference, ensure all boards are screwed tightly to the backbox ground plain, with all screws installed.  This improves grounding and will help minimize &amp;quot;hum&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another cause of hum could be an inconsistent +5DC volts from the power supply. An indicator of this being the cause of hum would be the game occasionally resetting as well.  Replacing caps C8 and C10 on the power supply may correct this issue.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the version of System 11 board, an 11C board or anything else (nothing, 11A, and 11B), sounds and music are handled with different specifics.  With the first 3 generations of MPU boards, the sounds originate from the MPU board and the background music originates from the sound board.  With the 11C board, both sounds and music are on the sound board, as the MPU no longer has a sound section populated on it. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume POT value=====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 5K linear volume POT. Others shipped with a 10K linear volume POT. Both POT values work fine and either can be used to replace a failed volume POT.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 11 games shipped with a 50 ohm resistor soldered to the volume POT. It is thought that this resistor was included so that the volume could never be turned to zero. For route games, at least some sound was thought to increase game earning potential. This resistor can be removed or jumpered around to enable turning the sound volume completely off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Boot Up Diagnostic Tones for the D-11297, D-11298, and D-11581 Sound Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11297, D-11298, and the D-11581 sound boards all provide diagnostic tones (&amp;quot;bongs&amp;quot;) at power on.  A single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; means that the sound board is operating properly.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lack of a bong indicates a problem with the sound board or it&#039;s connections. The possible causes for failure are numerous, including a failed amplifier, missing or incorrect connector placement, missing or noisy (AC ripple) power for a required voltage (-12VDC), failed speakers or the connection to the speakers, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is healthy enough to perform it&#039;s own self-diagnosis, it will attempt to indicate the problem by playing a specific number of bongs, as shown in the tables below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11297 &amp;amp; D-11298 Sound Boards&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U3 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D-11581 Sound Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;quot;Bong&amp;quot; Count&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Normal sound board boot with no problems detected.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U5 RAM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U4 Sound ROM Problem &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U19 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;U20 Sound ROM Problem&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Diagnostics Via the MPU Board for Games Prior to 11C=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pressing the upper switch of the two switches on the side of the MPU board will test both the CVSD and DAC on the MPU board.  The first sound is typically sound ROM (on the MPU) specific, and it is a test of the CVSD chip.  The second sound is described as a  &amp;quot;twing&amp;quot;, and it is a test for the DAC.  If no sounds are heard, refer to the potential issues listed above in the previous section.  If one &amp;quot;ring&amp;quot; is heard, it denotes that the U23 RAM chip has failed.  Two or four rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U21 ROM.  Three or five rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U22 ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Connecting the Speaker and Volume Connections for a System 11 MPU Board on the Bench=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS Sys11 Speaker Volume Connection.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Speaker and Non-adjustable Volume Control Connected on a System 11 MPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To test the sound on a System 11 MPU on the bench, a speaker and volume control must be connected to connectors 1J15 and 1J16 respectively. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The speaker should connect to pins 2 and 3 of 1J15. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the adjacent pic, a 470Kohm resistor was used in lieu of a volume pot.  Other resistor values can be used, but 470Kohm allows the sound to be set to a comfortable audible level.  Alligator clips can be used, but if the intentions are to test sound boards in the future, a resistor can be crimped into a .156&amp;quot; housing as shown. This resistor/connector set up can be used on all Williams sound boards from System 3 through System 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using alligator clip leads to power the board, use special care as to not send +12v down the -12v line (the pins are adjacent to one another).  Sending +12v down the -12v bus will most definitely destroy the 1408 DAC chip (if populated).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Is Very Faint Even at Maximum Volume =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:55536-CVSD.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Two hard to find 55536 CVSD ICs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
While most techs would suspect either a TL082 or a TL084 amplifier (on a pre-DCS sound board) or a 1458 amplifier (on a System 11 MPU) as the cause of this issue, the 55516/55532/55536/55564 CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta-Modulator) can also cause this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isolation to the CVSD is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into sound test.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use an oscilloscope to probe pins 9 and 12. A scope must be used since the signals are too subtle for a logic probe to detect.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 is a clock signal. &lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 12 is a data signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is making sounds that use the CVSD, both pin 9 and pin 12 should show &amp;quot;off nominal&amp;quot; signals. If the CVSD is working correctly, the output at pin 3 should be showing signal also. If it is not, then the CVSD has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Some Sounds Lower Volume Than Others =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11DACChannel.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The sound section of a System 11 MPU and the 2N3904 amplifying transistor.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another sound anomaly manifests as some sounds being more faint than others is a failure in the 1408 DAC sound lane channel. In High Speed, for example, &amp;quot;Sound Test&amp;quot; exercises both the 1408 and 55536 sound lanes. Sounds 1, 3, and 5 are all made via the 1408 DAC lane. If those sounds are faint, the issue could be the 10uf capacitor (C8), the 2N3904 transistor (Q1) that is used as a pre-amplifier, the 3.3K resistor (R7), or the 1408 DAC. Eliminating the easy possibilities first, replace the 10uf capacitor. If that doesn&#039;t fix the issue, replace the 2N3904. The 2N3904 may &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot; as failed, but not always. If the issue still remains, replace R7. Lastly, replace the 1408 DAC (U2). An equivalent part that may be used is the DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video, showing the problem and resolution can be viewed [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7fk3PtwvtE here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:WMS_Sys11_1408_flipped_lid.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The 1408 in the sound section of a System 11 MPU lost its top!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In another instance, Pin*Bot, all of the sounds were faint, except the last two in test.  This ended up being a bad 1408 DAC.  The last two sounds were unaffected, because the 55516 CVSD chip handled them.  With a visual inspection, the 1408 in the pic could not be determined it was bad, until it was in the midst of being desoldered from the circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Voice callouts are much softer than music/sound =====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A and 11B MPU boards were populated with different resistor and capacitor value parts. If an 11A MPU is installed into an 11B game (F-14 into an Earthshaker for instance), it is possible that the voice callouts will be noticeably softer than the other music/sound. The following table details the difference between the two sound mixing sections &#039;&#039;(Thanks to Pinsider &amp;quot;Mneubey&amp;quot;)&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11n_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11 (nothing) sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Resistors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R21 is 12K in 11B, 15K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R22 is 22K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R19 is 56K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R16 is 180K in 11B, 56K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R17 is 270K in 11B, 220K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R15 is 180K in 11B, 43K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;R20 is 12K in 11B, 27K in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Capacitors&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C12 is 470pf in 11B, 1200pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C11 is 100pf in 11B, 180pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;C10 is 470pf in 11B, 1800pf in 11A&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11_11b_sound.jpg|500px|thumb|left|System 11B sound section. &#039;&#039;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Board D-11581 Mixer Section Resistor Values =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:D11581ResistorValues.jpg|500px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Mixer&amp;quot; section resistor values across D-11581 sound board games. &#039;&#039;Data courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;DumbAss&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The sound mixing section on the System 11A through 11C sound boards were populated with different resistor values. The table shown at left details the differences between the sound mixing sections for each game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Missing Some Music or Garbled Music with a D-11581 Sound Board and 5 Bongs=====&lt;br /&gt;
A sound board booting with 5 bongs indicates a failure of the U20 ROM. While U20 could, in fact, have failed, 5 bongs could also mean that the software can&#039;t access U20. In one such case where 5 bongs were heard, during music test, tests 4 and 6 would play music but the music was garbled and/or incorrect. The root cause was W10/W11 jumper settings on the sound board that didn&#039;t match the ROM size. W10/W11 should be set to the left for 27256 ROMs; to the right for 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Modifying a pre-System 11C Sound Board to use 27512 ROMs (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3.jpg‎|300px|thumb|left|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. Note that W3 is &amp;quot;always IN&amp;quot;. The solder mask over the W3 jumper trace has been removed for clarity. Normally the trace is covered by a dashed white silkscreen line.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11BSoundBoardW2W3Modified.jpg‎|300px|thumb|right|D-11581 sound board jumpers W2 and W3. W3 has been cut to enable use of 27512 ROMs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some revisions of the D-11581 sound board will not accept 27512 sound ROMs without modification. By the time that revision C was manufactured, jumpers W10 and W11 were added above U20 to enable use of larger ROMs. Prior to that, jumpers W2 and W3 were implemented, but were of little use since both jumpers tied A15 (pin 1) of each EPROM to +5VDC. Making the modification pictured at right, then installing jumper W2, enables the use of 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Jokerz specific sound issue=====&lt;br /&gt;
A special case of interference is present on the Jokerz game, which uses a unique stereo sound board.  A deficiency in its design prevents all of the noise from being eliminated from the board.  Details can be found in the original Williams service bulletin here: [http://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf Jokerz service bulletin at IPDB.org]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Board Theory of Operation (D-11581)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:System11CSoundBoard.jpg|500px|thumb|right|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated and including jumpers W10 and W11]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Major components of the D-11581 sound board are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*68B09E externally clocked CPU, which is also used in all WPC MPU and pre-DCS sound boards&lt;br /&gt;
*68B21 Peripheral Interface Adapter, capable of running at 2Mhz&lt;br /&gt;
*Up to 3 ROMs. All boards can accommodate 27256 ROMs. Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate 27512 ROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
*6116 RAM (2K bytes). Some later boards can be jumpered to accommodate a 6264 RAM (8K bytes)&lt;br /&gt;
*YM2151 sound synthesizer paired with the YM3012 DAC (outputs channel 1 and channel 2)&lt;br /&gt;
*55516 CVSD (continuously variable slope delta) audio encoder, which provides a 3rd audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*1408 DAC (digital to analog converter), which provides a 4th audio channel&lt;br /&gt;
*Various 74XX ICs that perform address decoding and chip selection logic&lt;br /&gt;
*1458 pre-amplifiers and TDA2002 amplifiers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The D-11581 sound board shares a lot of board design and architecture of the pre-DCS sound board that was introduced with WPC games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power requirements for the board are supplied via connector J3. The typical sound board power levels are required, 5VDC, 12VDC, -12VDC, and Ground. Three 100uf capacitors reduce noise on the power busses along with several small ceramic caps which filter high frequency noise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Reset&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The on board 68B09E is reset via the external reset signal provided by the MPU board, via connection J4, pin 18. If attempting to operate the board without the MPU board connected, the processor must be manually reset via momentarily grounding pin 37 of the 68B09E.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Clocking&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The clocking signal for the board originates at the 8Mhz crystal oscillator. U16, a 74LS74 Dual D-Type FlipFlop divides the clock signal yielding both the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Q&amp;quot;clock signal. E and Q are phase shifted by one half clock cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chip Select Logic&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Chip select is accomplished via the normal &amp;quot;memory mapped I/O&amp;quot; method, using U14 (74LS139) and U15 (74LS138). &lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for all three ROMs (U4, U19, U20) is implemented by U14.&lt;br /&gt;
*Chip select for the RAM (U5), YM2151 (U3), and the 6821 (U12) is implemented by U15.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;How sounds are produced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are provided via J4, a dual row .100 connector of 20 pins. These sound selects are held &amp;quot;normally high&amp;quot; via a 4.7K/470pf 10-pin bussed SIP pull-up resistor/capacitor (SR1) tied to 5VDC. These SIP resistor/capacitor parts are no longer available. A bussed 4.7K 9-pin resistor network can be used as a replacement. The capacitor feature of the original part filtered high frequency noise from the communication lines. In practice, noise doesn&#039;t impact the interface significantly enough to be of concern.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board will pull the appropriate sound select signals to ground via the 6821 PIA at Uxx. When the appropriate signals are pulled to ground, the PIA is programmed to interrupt the 68B09E processor via the FIRQ and NMI signals. The 68B09E then reads the sound select signals presented at the 6821s input port (PB0 through PB7) via the processor data bus (D0 through D7).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor then employs the 4 sound channels available to it, along with encoded sound files contained in the ROM images, to create the intended sounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Where Do The Sounds Come From?====&lt;br /&gt;
This section in work...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 9 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Comet|| [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/-2m7vKCeg2A Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Sorcerer || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pXacwGqv5C4 Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Space Shuttle || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/B-gsuEw1jgU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 11 Games (alphabetical)=====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!Audio Demo Link&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Bally Game Show || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/vwA4FST62ug Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight 2000 || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/uyJlxc2ewtY Audio]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Cyclone || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/pEdSxFu1Zio Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Diner || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rwCLpG5jU2I Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| F-14 Tomcat || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/rG26I-oDK6E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Fire! || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/dXKRw1GqUcQ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| High Speed || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/yAmJzD9EAZA Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| PinBot || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/CoVvhwggLfU Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Rollergames || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/tN-Ns9eh8Pg Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Taxi || [[file:YT.png]] [https://youtu.be/P7DIs5djK-E Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Whirlwind|| [[file:YT.png]] [ Audio] &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Circuit Schematics Error ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems.JPG|left|200px|thumb|Correct wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Serial Flipper Schems Incorrect.JPG|right|200px|thumb|Incorrect wiring schematic for serial wound flipper coils]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 11 and 11A games used serial wound coils.  These coils only have a single diode on them.  Some of the early System 11 manuals show incorrect wiring for the EOS switch.  One of the EOS switch wires should be soldered to the center lug of the coil.  However, the other wire should be soldered to the lug with the non-banded side (anode) of the diode, not the lug with the banded side (cathode) of the diode.  Manuals which have this misinformation are High Speed, Grand Lizard, and Road Kings. Millionaire and Pinbot appear to be fine. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Electrical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 11 (nothing) and System 11A games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;50V Flipper Power Board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
System 11B and 11C games derive 50VDC flipper power from the &amp;quot;Aux Power Supply&amp;quot; board that was introduced with these games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 9 and 11 flipper circuitry is identical to all prior Williams System 3-7 games. The design had not changed from even the old electro-mechanical flipper implementation when the End of Stroke switch was introduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yes, Williams used serial wound coils from High Speed to Millionaire and then converted to parallel wound coils beginning with F-14 TomCat and throughout the rest of the System 11 run and into the WPC run. But the basic operation of System 9/11 coils remained &amp;quot;EM-like&amp;quot; whether serial or parallel wound.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are only three switches that can affect the electrical operation of a System 11 flipper, including strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Switches inside the Flipper Enable relay (K1), located on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The cabinet flipper button switches.&lt;br /&gt;
#An End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch associated with each flipper coil and integrated into the flipper mechanism assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Series Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the flipper coil. The EOS switch is closed, creating a short across the low power windngs, that removes resistance of the low power windings from the circuit. Only the smaller number of high power windings are &amp;quot;in circuit&amp;quot; with the EOS switch closed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at the low resistance high power windings of the coil. The coil plunger is pulled into the coil and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, removing the short across the low power windings, and placing them in series along with the high power windings. Together, the total resistance of the coil becomes the sum of both the low power and the high power windings. With more windings, the coil will have higher resistance and hence, lower power. The combined high resistance windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelWoundFlipperDiagram.jpg|left|300px|thumb|Parallel Wound Flipper Coil Operation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Diagram courtesy of Chris Hibler.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper enable relay (K1) switches close, a path to ground is provided for the low power windings of the flipper coil. And, since the EOS switch is closed, the high power windings also have a path to ground. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the flipper cabinet switch is closed by pressing the flipper button, this is the final switch in the path to ground for the waiting power at &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;both&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; of the coil parallel windings. Since electrical current &amp;quot;takes the path of least resistance&amp;quot; the lower resistance high power winding takes most of the current and the flipper &amp;quot;flips&amp;quot;. Near the end of the flipper&#039;s mechanical stroke, a pawl (a tab that sticks up) on the flipper crank mechanism will open the EOS switch, breaking the path to ground for the high power windings. The high resistance low power windings remain in circuit, and provide &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; power to the flipper coil. The high resistance low power windings act like a &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;coin door lockout&amp;quot; relay coil, able to withstand being energized for extended periods of time. Without the mechanization of the EOS switch, the high power windings would overheat quickly and damage the coil. For this reason, EOS switch adjustment, and a clean EOS switch, are critical.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Flipper Mechanical Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Return springs&lt;br /&gt;
*Fractured nylon bushing&lt;br /&gt;
*Insufficient gap between nylon bushing and crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat damaged coil&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil sleeve&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged coil stop&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper shaft slipping within crank&lt;br /&gt;
*Others?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 11 Display Single AlphaNumeric Character Won&#039;t Light===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys11B Bridged Header.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A solder bridge on the &amp;quot;digit strobe&amp;quot; connector.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In the category of &amp;quot;things that will make you crazy&amp;quot;, the solder bridge pictured at left shorted pins 8 and 9 on the connector that carries the digit strobes to a System 11 display. This prevented one of the digits on the display from ever lighting. It&#039;s always a good idea to examine prior work closely. Assuming the prior tech knew what they were doing is not always valid.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a System 6/7 Speech Board in a Comet===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS Sys9 CPU with 2732 Speech.JPG|200px|left|thumb|A Modified System 6/7 Speech Board Functioning with a System 9 CPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should the need arise, a System 6/7 speech board can be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified to use 2732 EPROMs] for a Comet.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a Data East MPU Board in a System 11 Game===&lt;br /&gt;
Whaaaat?!?!  Yes, a Data East MPU can be used in a Williams or Bally System 11 game.  However, this is limited to System 11C games only, and only a DE 520-5003-03 (Version 3) MPU can be used.  The reason for this limitation is because games previous to 11C have some or all of the sound section circuitry on the MPU board populated, the 11C does not.  Likewise, DE boards do not have any sound section circuitry located on them by design.  The board swap is not a simple drop in replacement though.  Some minor modifications have to be performed for the DE board to function properly in an 11C game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first hurdle is to properly power the DE board.  Connection 1J17 is where power originates on the 11C board.  The complimentary connection on a DE board is CN17.  The problem is that these connections are keyed differently between the two boards.  1J17 has a key at pin 7, while the key on CN17 is at pin 8.  The safest way to make a connection to CN17 with the 11C game harness is to remove pin 7 on the DE board.  This will have no ill effect, if the DE board is to be placed back into a DE game.  The worst case scenario if pin 7 is removed and the board placed back into a DE game is that the CN17 connector housing could be installed off by one pin, thus shorting the +5v to ground, and blowing the logic voltage fuse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Jumpers for 11C.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Correct jumper setting on DE MPU for 11C game ROMs]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE MPU Special Solenoid Wire Swap for 11C.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Addition harness and Z-connector installed to correct special solenoid drive outputs]]&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the game ROM jumpers have to be set correctly.  Since all 11C games use dual ROMs, jumper setting J4 must be in on the DE MPU, while J5 is out.  Install the 11C game ROMS in the following positions.  U27 (ROM 1) is to be inserted into the 5C socket, while U26 (ROM 2) is installed into the 5B socket.  Notch on the chip / socket is facing to the right.  There is an alternative method.  The code for the dual ROMs can be burned into a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Burning_Dual_ROMs_into_a_Single_5C_ROM single 27512 EPROM.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, there is a problem with how DE boards poll the special solenoid drivers differently than 11C boards.  Two of the drivers are correct (solenoids 17 and 21), while the four others are mismatched.  To overcome this problem, either a harness can be created (DE board to 11C harness) with a Z-connector installed between 1J19 and the game harness, or the 7-pin housing (the 9-pin housing at 1J19 is split with a 2-pin housing and a 7-pin housing) at 1J19 can be repinned.  The benefit of building a harness and adding a Z-connector is that it is easily reversible, if an 11C board is to be placed back into the game at a future time.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following wires will have to be connected to 1J19 / CN19 on the DE board for the game to function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Stock Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Swapped Wiring&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1 || ORG-VIO || ORG-VIO  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2 || ORG-GRY || ORG-GRY  || No change.  This is for the flipper enable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3 || BLU-ORG || BLU-YEL  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4 || BLU-RED || BLU-ORG  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5 || Key || None  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6 || BLU-YEL || BLU-BLK  ||   &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7 || BLU-BRN || BLU-BRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8 || BLU-GRN || BLU-GRN  || No change.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9 || BLU-BLK || BLU-RED  || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane at Game Start (Pinbot) ===&lt;br /&gt;
Trough and shooter lane switches test alright in switch test.  Ball feeder coil from trough to shooter lane tests fine in solenoid test.  If the motor for the visor is disconnected, and the visor does not cycle at the start of the game, the ball will not kick to the shooter lane.  This may be an issue if one or both of the visor switches are not recognized too.  Not certain what code revision this particular game was running.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Ball Will Not Kick Over to Shooter Lane and Drop Target Will Not Reset (Cyclone) ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cyclone UnderPF Fuse 1A 5A.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Fuse under the playfield of a Cyclone, which powers solenoids 1A and 5A]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Both the outhole solenoid (1a) and drop target reset solenoid (5a) are the only multiplexed 24v coils in Cyclone.  The power wires for these coils are brown.  For some reason, Williams decided it would be a good idea to put a fuse under the playfield for these coils &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(which is not included in the documentation)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.  The fuse/fuseholder is located just to the right of the spook house subway.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Special Solenoids Are Not Pulsed During Solenoid Test on System 9 Games===&lt;br /&gt;
The System 9 circuit board architecture provides no physical way to control the special solenoids other than via the enabling switch associated with the special solenoid device.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU energizes a coil 5 times===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Police Force&#039;&#039;&#039; - After the pinball is switched on the ramp diverter coil engages 5 times. After the game start the diverter coil engages 5 times again. Diverter mechanism doesn&#039;t hold in position. So after the coil is energized the mechanism falls back and so the switch is closed again. Then the software tries another 4 times to resolve the problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resolution:&#039;&#039;&#039; Clean the diverter mechanism and in particular the plastic. Lubricate the plastic lanes!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=21247</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=21247"/>
		<updated>2021-10-28T03:09:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || All || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || All || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || 2019-08-08* || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || *Not yet officially released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03-20 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/shoot-n-scoot/ Shoot &#039;n Scoot] || 2020-12-10 || Sfw || All || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/silver-falls/ Silver Falls] || 2021-06-28 || Sfw || Heist || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/sorcerers-apprentice/ Sorcerer&#039;s Apprentice] || 2021-08-23 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the boards used in the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; platform and the upper playfield modules:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-ROC ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2018/11/PD-LED-3_rev3-1.LLD_.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=21246</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=21246"/>
		<updated>2021-10-28T02:55:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || All || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || All || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || 2019-08-08* || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || *Not yet officially released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03-20 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/silver-falls/ Silver Falls] || 2021-06-28 || Sfw || Heist || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/sorcerers-apprentice/ Sorcerer&#039;s Apprentice] || 2021-08-23 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the boards used in the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; platform and the upper playfield modules:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-ROC ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2018/11/PD-LED-3_rev3-1.LLD_.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=21245</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=21245"/>
		<updated>2021-10-28T02:54:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || 2019-08-08* || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || *Not yet officially released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03-20 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/silver-falls/ Silver Falls] || 2021-06-28 || Sfw || Heist || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/sorcerers-apprentice/ Sorcerer&#039;s Apprentice] || 2021-08-23 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the boards used in the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; platform and the upper playfield modules:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-ROC ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2018/11/PD-LED-3_rev3-1.LLD_.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=21244</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=21244"/>
		<updated>2021-10-28T02:52:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || 2019-08-08* || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || *Not yet officially released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03-20 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/silver-falls/ Silver Falls] || 2021-06-28 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/sorcerers-apprentice/ Sorcerer&#039;s Apprentice] || 2021-08-23 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the boards used in the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; platform and the upper playfield modules:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-ROC ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2018/11/PD-LED-3_rev3-1.LLD_.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stern_SPIKE%E2%84%A2_System_Repair&amp;diff=21243</id>
		<title>Stern SPIKE™ System Repair</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stern_SPIKE%E2%84%A2_System_Repair&amp;diff=21243"/>
		<updated>2021-10-28T02:37:37Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* SPIKE 2 */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Click to go back to the [[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball_Repair_Guides | Data East/Sega/Stern pinball repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Stern SPIKE™ System Repair =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
The SPIKE™ System is the current board system used by Stern Pinball.  The first full production game to use the SPIKE Board Set was Wrestlemania in 2015.  The SPIKE architecture is a large departure from prior board set architectures. Per Stern, &amp;quot;The SPIKE Pinball system is rugged, distributed, and embedded platform custom-designed for the rigors of the pinball machine environment&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The SPIKE system is comprised of a CPU board and a series of several &amp;quot;node boards&amp;quot; that are powered from a 48VDC power bus. Each SPIKE &amp;quot;node board&amp;quot; will regulate this 48VDC down to the proper voltage required to operate the &amp;quot;devices&amp;quot; under control of that node (lamps, coils, switches, etc). Nodes are connected with standard CAT 5e (or better) 8 conductor Ethernet wiring although the interface protocol is &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; Ethernet, and connecting a SPIKE node to computer Ethernet will damage the board (per Stern). There are several node boards mounted to the bottom side of the playfield to control the various lamps, coils, and switches on the playfield. There is one &amp;quot;cabinet&amp;quot; node board located next to the plumb bob tilt assembly which controls start button, tilt, coin door, diagnostic switches, dollar bill acceptor, shaker motor, ticket dispenser, coin meters, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===SPIKE 1===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Date &lt;br /&gt;
! Name&lt;br /&gt;
! Pro&lt;br /&gt;
! Premium&lt;br /&gt;
! Limited Edition&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2012 || [[Transformers, The Pin]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2013 || [[Avengers, The Pin]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2015 || [[Wrestlemania]] || Yes || No || Yes (400 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2015 || [[Whoa Nellie! Big Juicy Melons™]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2015 || [[KISS]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (600 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2015 || [[Game of Thrones]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (700 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2016 || [[Ghostbusters]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2016 || [[Pabst Can Crusher]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2016 || [[Spider-Man, The Pin]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 || [[Primus]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 || [[Supreme]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===SPIKE 2===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Date &lt;br /&gt;
! Name&lt;br /&gt;
! Pro&lt;br /&gt;
! Premium&lt;br /&gt;
! Limited Edition&lt;br /&gt;
! Other Models&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2016 || [[Batman 66]] || || Yes || Yes (240 max) || Super LE (80 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2017 || [[Aerosmith]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2017 || [[Star Wars (Stern)]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (800 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2017 || [[Guardians of the Galaxy]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (600 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 || [[Iron Maiden (Stern)]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 || [[Deadpool]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 || [[Beatles]] || Gold (1614 max) || Platinum (250 max) || Diamond (100 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[The Munsters]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (600 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[Black Knight: Sword of Rage]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (600 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[Jurassic Park (Stern)]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[Star Wars Pin]] || colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[Elvira&#039;s House of Horrors]] || || Yes || Yes (400 max) || Signature Edition (50 max), 40th Anniversary Edition (199 max) released 10/2021&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[Stranger Things]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2020 || [[Heavy Metal]] || colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2020 || [[Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (Stern)]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2020 || [[The Avengers Infinity Quest]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2020 || [[Led Zeppelin]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2021 || [[Star Wars The Mandalorian]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (750 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2021 || [[Godzilla]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (1000 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2021 || [[Jurassic Park Pin]] || colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
===The SPIKE Board Set===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Stern has issued a technical video discussing the Spike 1 system boards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvefdrNaAPg&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There is a well done video by Stern, featuring George Gomez, describing the Spike 2 system boards:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1xdmgeAylQ&amp;amp;t=190s&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_Spike1_board.JPG|200pix|thumb|left|Ghostbusters Spike 1 board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Spike 1 CPU board installed in a Ghostbusters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Recommended Documentation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Manuals====&lt;br /&gt;
As always, it is highly recommended to possess a game manual.  Every game manual is full of detailed information regarding game specific switch, lamp, and coil assignments.  Equally, details for maneuvering through test, audit, and bookkeeping screen menus, schematics for all boards used, and game specific mechanical assemblies are included.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wrestlemania manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/WWE-PRO-MAN-1.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/WWE-LE-Manual.pdf LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Whoa-Nelly-Manual.pdf Whoa Nellie game manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* KISS manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/KISSProweb.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/KissPremiumweb.pdf Premium], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/KissLEweb.pdf LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Game of Thrones manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/GameOfThrones_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/GameOfThrones_LE_Prem_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Ghostbusters manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ghostbusters_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ghostbusters_LE_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Batman &#039;66 manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Batman_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Batman_LE_Pre_web.pdf LE], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Batman_SLE_web.pdf Super LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Aerosmith manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Aerosmith_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Aerosmith_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Star Wars manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/StarWars_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/StarWars_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Guardians of the Galaxy manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Guardians_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Guardians_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Guardians_LE_Pre_web-1.pdf LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Iron Maiden manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/IronMaiden_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/IronMaiden_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Deadpool manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Deadpool_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Deadpool_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Beatles manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Beatles_web.pdf Gold/Platinum/Diamond]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The Munsters manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Munsters_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Munsters_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Black Knight: Sword of Rage manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/BlackKnight_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/BlackKnight_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Jurassic Park manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/JurassicPark_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/JurassicPark_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Star Wars Pin - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/StarWars_Pin_web.pdf Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Elvira&#039;s House of Horrors - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Elvira_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium, LE, &amp;amp; SE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Stranger Things manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/StrangerThings_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/StrangerThings_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/TMNT_Pro_web-q34jfh9ha4f.pdf Pro]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Schematics====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====SPIKE 1=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Game&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6936-01B-CPU-SPIKE-1-.pdf 520-6936-01]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;SPIKE-1 CPU&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! 520-5319-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Cabinet&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6967-72D-CABINET-NODE-BOARD-72Mhz-expanded.pdf 520-6967-xx]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Cabinet&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6935-10E-8-COIL-PLFD-NODE-BOARD-4K.pdf 520-6935-10]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;8-Coil Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! 520-6985-72&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;8-Coil Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-5322-72H-32-SW-LMP-EXPANSION-BRD-72Mhz.pdf 520-5322-00]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;32-Light &amp;amp; Switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! 520-5329-10&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;4-Coil Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! 520-5345-01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Trough Serial Opto&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Receiver Extension&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Board&lt;br /&gt;
! Misc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Whoa Nellie || Node 0 || Node 1 || || Node 8 || || Node 10 || Node 9 &amp;amp; 11 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| KISS Prem/LE || Node 0 || Node 1 || || Node 8, 9, &amp;amp; 10 || || Node 11 || || 8a ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Game of Thrones Prem/LE || Node 0 ||  || Node 1 || Node 8 &amp;amp; 11 || || || Node 9 &amp;amp; 10 || 8b ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Ghostbusters Prem/LE || Node 0 ||  || Node 1 || || Node 8 &amp;amp; 9 || || Node 10 || 8a || Node 24 - 520-6988-00 LCD Node (Ecto Goggles)&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====SPIKE 2=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Game&lt;br /&gt;
! 509-1000-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;SPIKE-2 CPU&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! 509-1003-01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;SPIKE-2 CPU&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6967-72D-CABINET-NODE-BOARD-72Mhz-expanded.pdf 520-6967-xx]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Cabinet&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-7017-72D-Core-Node-Hall-3amp.pdf 520-7017-72]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;8-Coil Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6998-72C-4-COIL-PLFD-NODE-BOARD-Plus.pdf 520-6998-72]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;4-Coil Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6976-72A-SPI-only-NODE-board.pdf 520-6976-72]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;SPI Core Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-7001-00A-TROUGH-RECEIVER-BOARD.pdf 520-7001-00]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Trough Serial Opto&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Receiver Extension&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6996-00A-Serial-Motor-Controller-4-way-functionality.pdf 520-6996-00A]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Motor Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
! Misc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Batman 66&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
| 9c&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 10 - 520-7019-72 Turntable Node,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node 24 - LCD Node (Villain Vision)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Aerosmith&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
| 8e&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 10 - 520-5329-10 Playfield 48V 4-Coil node board (Prem/LE only)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Star Wars Prem/LE&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 11 (Prem/LE only)&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 10&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
| 9d&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Guardians of the Galaxy Prem/LE&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 11&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 10&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
| 9b&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Iron Maiden Pro&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Deadpool Pro&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Beatles&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9 &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Munsters Prem/LE&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight: Sword of Rage&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Star Wars Pin&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8c&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Stranger Things&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Pro&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Notes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# 509-1000-00 replaced by 509-1003-01&lt;br /&gt;
# For the Star Wars Pin (Home Edition), Node 8 subsumes the functions performed by the cabinet node board (typically Node 1 on other Spike machines).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_coin_door.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Ghostbusters coin door pushbuttons]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Spike system games use four pushbutton switches (located on the coin door) to access the bookkeeping, adjustments, and diagnostics very much like Williams WPC series machines do. The black pushbutton enters the menu while the two red + and - pushbuttons step you through the menu (also act as volume up and volume down). If you want to go backwards, push the green button (it acts like &amp;quot;escape&amp;quot; function).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Cabinet Node Board Information===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
LED indicators on the board:&lt;br /&gt;
*Red: 48 volts is present at the board&lt;br /&gt;
*Yellow: Board is communicating with cpu board&lt;br /&gt;
*Green: 6 volts is present at the board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ghostbusters # 520-6967-00 (replaced by 520-6967-72) Cabinet Node Board connectors:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*CN1: Universal Card link (if present on your particular board)&lt;br /&gt;
*CN2: Low tickets warning in ticket dispenser&lt;br /&gt;
*CN3: To Meter #1 (usually coin counter, use a 12 volt meter)&lt;br /&gt;
*CN4: To Meter #2 (usually tickets out, use a 12 volt meter)&lt;br /&gt;
*CN5: From Coin Door coin switches and coin entry LED lights&lt;br /&gt;
*CN6: Left cabinet switch inputs (tilt, start, etc)&lt;br /&gt;
*CN7: Right cabinet switch inputs&lt;br /&gt;
*CN8: From electronic coin mechanism (for export machines only)&lt;br /&gt;
*CN9: From Dollar Bill Acceptor&lt;br /&gt;
*CN10: From coin door volume and diagnostic switches&lt;br /&gt;
*CN11: Ticket dispenser&lt;br /&gt;
*CN12: Volume and diagnostic switches output to cpu board connector CN25&lt;br /&gt;
*CN13: RJ45 Node Data Bus&lt;br /&gt;
*CN14: 48 volts DC power input&lt;br /&gt;
*CN15: Optional spare LED +5 volt power source&lt;br /&gt;
*CN16: To shaker motor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Dollar Bill Acceptors===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Spike system machines come with a bill acceptor coin door and dollar bill acceptor wiring harness already installed. Many are wired for using 120 volts AC powered bill acceptors (Mars/MEI AE-2411-300 is recommended), but there are reports some machines are wired for 12 volts DC models instead. Here is a Ghostbusters which comes wired for 120 volts AC power for the bill acceptor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_bill_acceptor_connector.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Ghostbusters bill acceptor connector]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Optional Equipment===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply for 12 volt and 5 volt accessory items has four Molex output jacks and is fused:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/accessory-power-supply-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-machines-backbox-mounting.html Power supply for backbox mounting]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply is the same as above except it mounts in the lower cabinet near the cashbox:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/accessory-power-supply-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-machines-cabinet-mounting.html Power supply for lower cabinet mounting]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This 8 way splitter provides eight 12 volt only Molex jacks and mounts only in the backbox:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/8-way-power-splitter-board-for-stern-pinball-machines-using-the-spike-spike-2-system.html 8 Way splitter for backbox mounting]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Knocker Kit provides a real knocker:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/real-knocker-kit-for-stern-spikespike-2.html Real Knocker Kit for Spike 1 and Spike 2]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Linux OS===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Spike&#039;s central CPU node in the backbox runs Linux. The hardware is a derivative of the NXP i.MX6 [https://wandboard.org Wandboard].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The SD card has ext4 partitions, the most interesting being the root filesystem and /games. The rootfs contains a yocto build with no toolchain or kernel headers, but cross-compilation is possible using gcc-arm-linux-gnueabihf.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a serial console on connector CN2. This connector is generally not populated. It&#039;s also possible to configure the Ethernet port for remote access.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The game executable has a text-based interactive debug interface with some interesting options:&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;  commands:&lt;br /&gt;
          adj: perform operations on adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
          amp: amp system interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          aud: perform operations on audits.&lt;br /&gt;
          coil: fire a coil.&lt;br /&gt;
          credit: manipulate credits.&lt;br /&gt;
          debug: get debug information.&lt;br /&gt;
          display: display system interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          dsp: DSP interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          knocker: perform operations on the knocker.&lt;br /&gt;
          le: lamp effect system interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          mode: interact with modes.&lt;br /&gt;
          node: node diagnostics commands.&lt;br /&gt;
          nv: get non-volatile ram info.&lt;br /&gt;
          proc: get information about processes.&lt;br /&gt;
          red: redemption interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          replay: replay interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          scene_cache: scene cache system interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          score: manipulate player scores.&lt;br /&gt;
          sound: sound system interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          textsafe: show text safe region.&lt;br /&gt;
          video_display: video display system interface.&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some more information can be found here:&lt;br /&gt;
 * https://docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/hardware/spike/connection.html&lt;br /&gt;
 * https://pastebin.com/raw/RryUb8iC&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main power supply is 48 volts @ 10.5 amps and has a cooling fan. Some versions have the fan on the front of the power supply while others may have the fan mounted on the top. Power supply is a Mean Well # RSP-500-48 (Jameco Electronics # 2198014).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:48V_power_supply.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Ghostbusters Pro 48 volt power supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ghostbusters wiring interconnection label.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_interconnect.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Ghostbusters interconnection wiring label]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Noisy Power Supply Fan====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There have been reports of the fan on the switching regulator 48 volt power supply becoming too loud. There is now a plug n play replacement fan kit. The fan in the kit is a lot quieter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/02140-spike-quiet-fan-plug-n-play-kit Spike Quiet Fan Kit]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Relocating the Power Switch====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One complaint with Spike machines is the fact the power on-off switch is located in the backbox. If the machine is located in a bank of machines, it may be difficult to reach the power switch. Some people have ordered a Stern # 515-7085-00 Power Switch and Bracket assembly and mounted it in the usual right front bottom cabinet location. Then wires are run up to the backbox and connected in place of the backbox power switch. Stern installs a shaker motor in the right front of the cabinet now. So the shaker motor (if installed) must be relocated farther back in the cabinet (about 6 inches) to the other side of the wooden divider.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-onoff-rocker-switch-and-bracket-assembly.html Stern Power Switch and Mounting Bracket Assembly]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the MPU doesn&#039;t boot, check that the memory card is firmly seated in its slot on the MPU board.  Also, you can try re-seating the memory card.  Sometimes this fixes Spike games that won&#039;t boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some reset/slam tilt problems have been traced to the shaker motor. Please check the service advisory bulletin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Stern-ShakerMotorAdvisory.pdf Shaker motor service advisory]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Pirates of the Caribbean (a S.A.M. board set game), Stern replaced the normal Plasma Dot Matrix Display on European models with an LED variant because of the RoHS law. They first used PinLED DMDs, and later, switched to a red DMD specifically made for them (520-5052-05). The debate which looks better will be going on for your remaining lifetime and continue right into your next few lives.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====LED DMD bad vertical line====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern-LED-DMD-Bad.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Stern bad LED DMD]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a game is always showing a semi-bright vertical line on the DMD, usually one of the LED segments is bad. Fortunately the bad segment can be found easily. As shown in the picture to the left, one pixel in the line is always dark. This 8x8 segment is the bad guy and needs to be replaced. The good thing is that this problem usually occurs with NIB games just after a few hours or days of game play so the DMD is still under warranty. If not, ask Stern for the availability of the LED segments. When replacing a block, be advised that the vias are small and are difficult to remove without the proper equipment. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Spike 1 cpu board connector CN1 is the 2 channel backbox speaker output (two 4 ohm @ 10 watt 4 inch square speakers, use Stern # 031-5004-02). Connector CN4 is the lower cabinet woofer speaker output (one 8 ohm @ 20 watt 8 inch round speaker, use Stern # 031-5007-01).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CN1 pinout:&lt;br /&gt;
*1: Black-White backbox right speaker -.&lt;br /&gt;
*2: Red-White backbox right speaker +.&lt;br /&gt;
*3: Key&lt;br /&gt;
*4: Black backbox left speaker -.&lt;br /&gt;
*5: Red backbox left speaker +.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CN4 pinout:&lt;br /&gt;
*1: Yellow-Black lower cabinet woofer speaker output -.&lt;br /&gt;
*2: Yellow-White lower cabinet woofer speaker output +.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CN18 (TRS headphone 3.5mm jack) pinout:&lt;br /&gt;
*TIP: headphone left, 8 ohm, 200mw maximum output&lt;br /&gt;
*RING: headphone right, 8 ohm, 200mw maximum output&lt;br /&gt;
*SLEEVE: Audio ground&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CN27 Preamp (line) output to feed sound to an external monaural amplifier or subwoofer amplifier:&lt;br /&gt;
*1: Line out +, 600 ohms&lt;br /&gt;
*2: Line out ground&lt;br /&gt;
*3: Line out -, 600 ohms&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The latest game codes now have speaker impedance settings for whether 4 ohm or 8 ohm speakers are installed in the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
Added UTIL-&amp;gt;VOL adjustments, Speaker Balance, backbox speaker type, and cabinet speaker type for Spike 1 and 2 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
See [[Common Flipper Troubleshooting]] for general flipper information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_flipper_assembly.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Flipper assembly on Ghostbusters]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_pop_bumpers.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Ghostbusters pop bumper assemblies]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Opto problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Shaker Motor Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The shaker motor connects to connector CN16 (CN2 on early boards) on the cabinet node board located next to the plumb bob tilt. It will be labeled Shaker Motor. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The pinout of CN16 is this:&lt;br /&gt;
*1: Shaker motor - (Blue wire)&lt;br /&gt;
*2: Shaker motor - (optional extra connection)&lt;br /&gt;
*3: Shaker motor + (optional extra connection)&lt;br /&gt;
*4: Key&lt;br /&gt;
*5: Shaker motor + (Red wire)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Genuine Stern SPIKE Shaker motor causes mysterious slam tilts during game:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Stern-ShakerMotorAdvisory.pdf Service Advisory 2018]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your shaker motor is damaged or worn out, you can purchase just the motor itself if desired.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/replacement-motor-for-stern-shaker-kits.html Replacement Spike/Sam shaker motor only]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Third Party Shaker Motors====&lt;br /&gt;
All current SPIKE™ games allow for a shaker motor, but it should be a SPIKE shaker motor, not a SAM-system shaker motor (SAM is the previous system).  After the initial launch of SPIKE™ games, it was discovered that motors from third-party manufacturers (in particular Pinball Life) had a capacitor that caused problems, and will blow out the node board.&lt;br /&gt;
[https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB184.pdf Service Bulletin 184] advises against using third-party shaker motors entirely.  Installation will void the game&#039;s warranty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The symptom of this problem is that the Start button, plumb bob, and coin door GI lamps won&#039;t work; that is, the game becomes unplayable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some owners have reported that removing the capacitor from the third-party motor will fix the problem.  Stern&#039;s public position is that owners should spend the extra money and buy an OEM motor.  Many vendors do not clearly differentiate between an OEM part and a third-party part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-factory-authorized-shaker-motor-kit-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-games.html Genuine Stern Spike shaker motor kit]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-c-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-games.html Third party Spike shaker motor kit]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All SPIKE system games already have the holes for a shaker motor pre-drilled and 10-32 T-Nuts already installed for mounting the shaker motor to the right of the cashbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Missing Playfield Slide Brackets on Pro Models===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with the Pro model of WWE, Stern removed the playfield slide brackets and replaced them with a couple of cheap pieces of threaded rod covered in heat shrink tubing and a ball shooter tip. This was so you could pull the playfield toward you a bit and rest those &amp;quot;pegs&amp;quot; on the lockdown receiver to service under the playfield. That didn&#039;t work very well if you needed to get to something at the very back of the playfield. Pinball Life has reproduced the playfield slide brackets as a set. Once installed, the playfield can be pulled out a lot farther to make it easier to work at the rear of the playfield. Premium and LE models already have the playfield slide brackets installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-pinball-support-slide-bracket-kit-for-spike-spike-2-machines.html Spike cabinet playfield slide bracket kit]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note:  It now appears, starting with Iron Maiden, that Stern has gone back to installing the metal slide brackets on the bottom of the playfields on Pro models.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==References==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ghostbusters Premium and LE models&#039;&#039;&#039; damaged Ecto Goggles LCD screen. Air balls flying up and hitting/damaging the LCD screen on the Ecto Goggles unit. Stern issued a service bulletin about this problem and came up with a metal shield to install on the machine to prevent this from happening.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB187-1.pdf Ecto Goggles Shield Kit Service Bulletin]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stern_SPIKE%E2%84%A2_System_Repair&amp;diff=21242</id>
		<title>Stern SPIKE™ System Repair</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stern_SPIKE%E2%84%A2_System_Repair&amp;diff=21242"/>
		<updated>2021-10-28T02:31:48Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* SPIKE 2 */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Click to go back to the [[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball_Repair_Guides | Data East/Sega/Stern pinball repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Stern SPIKE™ System Repair =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
The SPIKE™ System is the current board system used by Stern Pinball.  The first full production game to use the SPIKE Board Set was Wrestlemania in 2015.  The SPIKE architecture is a large departure from prior board set architectures. Per Stern, &amp;quot;The SPIKE Pinball system is rugged, distributed, and embedded platform custom-designed for the rigors of the pinball machine environment&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The SPIKE system is comprised of a CPU board and a series of several &amp;quot;node boards&amp;quot; that are powered from a 48VDC power bus. Each SPIKE &amp;quot;node board&amp;quot; will regulate this 48VDC down to the proper voltage required to operate the &amp;quot;devices&amp;quot; under control of that node (lamps, coils, switches, etc). Nodes are connected with standard CAT 5e (or better) 8 conductor Ethernet wiring although the interface protocol is &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; Ethernet, and connecting a SPIKE node to computer Ethernet will damage the board (per Stern). There are several node boards mounted to the bottom side of the playfield to control the various lamps, coils, and switches on the playfield. There is one &amp;quot;cabinet&amp;quot; node board located next to the plumb bob tilt assembly which controls start button, tilt, coin door, diagnostic switches, dollar bill acceptor, shaker motor, ticket dispenser, coin meters, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===SPIKE 1===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Date &lt;br /&gt;
! Name&lt;br /&gt;
! Pro&lt;br /&gt;
! Premium&lt;br /&gt;
! Limited Edition&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2012 || [[Transformers, The Pin]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2013 || [[Avengers, The Pin]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2015 || [[Wrestlemania]] || Yes || No || Yes (400 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2015 || [[Whoa Nellie! Big Juicy Melons™]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2015 || [[KISS]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (600 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2015 || [[Game of Thrones]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (700 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2016 || [[Ghostbusters]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2016 || [[Pabst Can Crusher]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2016 || [[Spider-Man, The Pin]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 || [[Primus]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 || [[Supreme]] || colspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===SPIKE 2===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Date &lt;br /&gt;
! Name&lt;br /&gt;
! Pro&lt;br /&gt;
! Premium&lt;br /&gt;
! Limited Edition&lt;br /&gt;
! Other Models&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2016 || [[Batman 66]] || || Yes || Yes (240 max) || Super LE (80 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2017 || [[Aerosmith]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2017 || [[Star Wars (Stern)]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (800 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2017 || [[Guardians of the Galaxy]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (600 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 || [[Iron Maiden (Stern)]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 || [[Deadpool]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 || [[Beatles]] || Gold (1614 max) || Platinum (250 max) || Diamond (100 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[The Munsters]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (600 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[Black Knight: Sword of Rage]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (600 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[Jurassic Park (Stern)]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[Star Wars Pin]] || colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[Elvira&#039;s House of Horrors]] || || Yes || Yes (400 max) || Signature Edition (50 max)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2019 || [[Stranger Things]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2020 || [[Heavy Metal]] || colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; | One Model&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2020 || [[Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (Stern)]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2020 || [[The Avengers Infinity Quest]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2020 || [[Led Zeppelin]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (500 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2021 || [[Star Wars The Mandalorian]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (750 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2021 || [[Godzilla]] || Yes || Yes || Yes (1000 max) ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
===The SPIKE Board Set===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Stern has issued a technical video discussing the Spike 1 system boards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvefdrNaAPg&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There is a well done video by Stern, featuring George Gomez, describing the Spike 2 system boards:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1xdmgeAylQ&amp;amp;t=190s&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_Spike1_board.JPG|200pix|thumb|left|Ghostbusters Spike 1 board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Spike 1 CPU board installed in a Ghostbusters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Recommended Documentation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Manuals====&lt;br /&gt;
As always, it is highly recommended to possess a game manual.  Every game manual is full of detailed information regarding game specific switch, lamp, and coil assignments.  Equally, details for maneuvering through test, audit, and bookkeeping screen menus, schematics for all boards used, and game specific mechanical assemblies are included.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wrestlemania manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/WWE-PRO-MAN-1.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/WWE-LE-Manual.pdf LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Whoa-Nelly-Manual.pdf Whoa Nellie game manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* KISS manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/KISSProweb.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/KissPremiumweb.pdf Premium], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/KissLEweb.pdf LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Game of Thrones manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/GameOfThrones_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/GameOfThrones_LE_Prem_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Ghostbusters manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ghostbusters_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ghostbusters_LE_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Batman &#039;66 manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Batman_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Batman_LE_Pre_web.pdf LE], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Batman_SLE_web.pdf Super LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Aerosmith manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Aerosmith_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Aerosmith_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Star Wars manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/StarWars_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/StarWars_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Guardians of the Galaxy manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Guardians_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Guardians_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Guardians_LE_Pre_web-1.pdf LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Iron Maiden manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/IronMaiden_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/IronMaiden_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Deadpool manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Deadpool_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Deadpool_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Beatles manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Beatles_web.pdf Gold/Platinum/Diamond]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The Munsters manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Munsters_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Munsters_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Black Knight: Sword of Rage manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/BlackKnight_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/BlackKnight_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Jurassic Park manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/JurassicPark_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/JurassicPark_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Star Wars Pin - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/StarWars_Pin_web.pdf Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Elvira&#039;s House of Horrors - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Elvira_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium, LE, &amp;amp; SE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Stranger Things manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/StrangerThings_Pro_web.pdf Pro], [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/StrangerThings_LE_Pre_web.pdf Premium &amp;amp; LE]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles manuals - [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/TMNT_Pro_web-q34jfh9ha4f.pdf Pro]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Schematics====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====SPIKE 1=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Game&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6936-01B-CPU-SPIKE-1-.pdf 520-6936-01]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;SPIKE-1 CPU&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! 520-5319-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Cabinet&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6967-72D-CABINET-NODE-BOARD-72Mhz-expanded.pdf 520-6967-xx]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Cabinet&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6935-10E-8-COIL-PLFD-NODE-BOARD-4K.pdf 520-6935-10]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;8-Coil Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! 520-6985-72&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;8-Coil Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-5322-72H-32-SW-LMP-EXPANSION-BRD-72Mhz.pdf 520-5322-00]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;32-Light &amp;amp; Switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! 520-5329-10&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;4-Coil Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! 520-5345-01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Trough Serial Opto&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Receiver Extension&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Board&lt;br /&gt;
! Misc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Whoa Nellie || Node 0 || Node 1 || || Node 8 || || Node 10 || Node 9 &amp;amp; 11 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| KISS Prem/LE || Node 0 || Node 1 || || Node 8, 9, &amp;amp; 10 || || Node 11 || || 8a ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Game of Thrones Prem/LE || Node 0 ||  || Node 1 || Node 8 &amp;amp; 11 || || || Node 9 &amp;amp; 10 || 8b ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Ghostbusters Prem/LE || Node 0 ||  || Node 1 || || Node 8 &amp;amp; 9 || || Node 10 || 8a || Node 24 - 520-6988-00 LCD Node (Ecto Goggles)&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====SPIKE 2=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Game&lt;br /&gt;
! 509-1000-00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;SPIKE-2 CPU&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! 509-1003-01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;SPIKE-2 CPU&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6967-72D-CABINET-NODE-BOARD-72Mhz-expanded.pdf 520-6967-xx]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Cabinet&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-7017-72D-Core-Node-Hall-3amp.pdf 520-7017-72]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;8-Coil Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6998-72C-4-COIL-PLFD-NODE-BOARD-Plus.pdf 520-6998-72]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;4-Coil Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6976-72A-SPI-only-NODE-board.pdf 520-6976-72]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;SPI Core Playfield&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-7001-00A-TROUGH-RECEIVER-BOARD.pdf 520-7001-00]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Trough Serial Opto&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Receiver Extension&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Board&lt;br /&gt;
! [https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6996-00A-Serial-Motor-Controller-4-way-functionality.pdf 520-6996-00A]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Motor Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
! Misc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Batman 66&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
| 9c&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 10 - 520-7019-72 Turntable Node,&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Node 24 - LCD Node (Villain Vision)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Aerosmith&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
| 8e&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 10 - 520-5329-10 Playfield 48V 4-Coil node board (Prem/LE only)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Star Wars Prem/LE&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 11 (Prem/LE only)&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 10&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
| 9d&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Guardians of the Galaxy Prem/LE&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 11&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 10&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
| 9b&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Iron Maiden Pro&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Deadpool Pro&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Beatles&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9 &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Munsters Prem/LE&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Black Knight: Sword of Rage&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Star Wars Pin&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8c&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Stranger Things&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Pro&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| Node 0&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 1&lt;br /&gt;
| Node 8 &amp;amp; 9&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
| 8a&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Notes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# 509-1000-00 replaced by 509-1003-01&lt;br /&gt;
# For the Star Wars Pin (Home Edition), Node 8 subsumes the functions performed by the cabinet node board (typically Node 1 on other Spike machines).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_coin_door.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Ghostbusters coin door pushbuttons]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Spike system games use four pushbutton switches (located on the coin door) to access the bookkeeping, adjustments, and diagnostics very much like Williams WPC series machines do. The black pushbutton enters the menu while the two red + and - pushbuttons step you through the menu (also act as volume up and volume down). If you want to go backwards, push the green button (it acts like &amp;quot;escape&amp;quot; function).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Cabinet Node Board Information===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
LED indicators on the board:&lt;br /&gt;
*Red: 48 volts is present at the board&lt;br /&gt;
*Yellow: Board is communicating with cpu board&lt;br /&gt;
*Green: 6 volts is present at the board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ghostbusters # 520-6967-00 (replaced by 520-6967-72) Cabinet Node Board connectors:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*CN1: Universal Card link (if present on your particular board)&lt;br /&gt;
*CN2: Low tickets warning in ticket dispenser&lt;br /&gt;
*CN3: To Meter #1 (usually coin counter, use a 12 volt meter)&lt;br /&gt;
*CN4: To Meter #2 (usually tickets out, use a 12 volt meter)&lt;br /&gt;
*CN5: From Coin Door coin switches and coin entry LED lights&lt;br /&gt;
*CN6: Left cabinet switch inputs (tilt, start, etc)&lt;br /&gt;
*CN7: Right cabinet switch inputs&lt;br /&gt;
*CN8: From electronic coin mechanism (for export machines only)&lt;br /&gt;
*CN9: From Dollar Bill Acceptor&lt;br /&gt;
*CN10: From coin door volume and diagnostic switches&lt;br /&gt;
*CN11: Ticket dispenser&lt;br /&gt;
*CN12: Volume and diagnostic switches output to cpu board connector CN25&lt;br /&gt;
*CN13: RJ45 Node Data Bus&lt;br /&gt;
*CN14: 48 volts DC power input&lt;br /&gt;
*CN15: Optional spare LED +5 volt power source&lt;br /&gt;
*CN16: To shaker motor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Dollar Bill Acceptors===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Spike system machines come with a bill acceptor coin door and dollar bill acceptor wiring harness already installed. Many are wired for using 120 volts AC powered bill acceptors (Mars/MEI AE-2411-300 is recommended), but there are reports some machines are wired for 12 volts DC models instead. Here is a Ghostbusters which comes wired for 120 volts AC power for the bill acceptor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_bill_acceptor_connector.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Ghostbusters bill acceptor connector]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Optional Equipment===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply for 12 volt and 5 volt accessory items has four Molex output jacks and is fused:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/accessory-power-supply-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-machines-backbox-mounting.html Power supply for backbox mounting]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This power supply is the same as above except it mounts in the lower cabinet near the cashbox:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/accessory-power-supply-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-machines-cabinet-mounting.html Power supply for lower cabinet mounting]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This 8 way splitter provides eight 12 volt only Molex jacks and mounts only in the backbox:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/8-way-power-splitter-board-for-stern-pinball-machines-using-the-spike-spike-2-system.html 8 Way splitter for backbox mounting]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Knocker Kit provides a real knocker:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/real-knocker-kit-for-stern-spikespike-2.html Real Knocker Kit for Spike 1 and Spike 2]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Linux OS===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Spike&#039;s central CPU node in the backbox runs Linux. The hardware is a derivative of the NXP i.MX6 [https://wandboard.org Wandboard].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The SD card has ext4 partitions, the most interesting being the root filesystem and /games. The rootfs contains a yocto build with no toolchain or kernel headers, but cross-compilation is possible using gcc-arm-linux-gnueabihf.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a serial console on connector CN2. This connector is generally not populated. It&#039;s also possible to configure the Ethernet port for remote access.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The game executable has a text-based interactive debug interface with some interesting options:&lt;br /&gt;
 &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;  commands:&lt;br /&gt;
          adj: perform operations on adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
          amp: amp system interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          aud: perform operations on audits.&lt;br /&gt;
          coil: fire a coil.&lt;br /&gt;
          credit: manipulate credits.&lt;br /&gt;
          debug: get debug information.&lt;br /&gt;
          display: display system interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          dsp: DSP interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          knocker: perform operations on the knocker.&lt;br /&gt;
          le: lamp effect system interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          mode: interact with modes.&lt;br /&gt;
          node: node diagnostics commands.&lt;br /&gt;
          nv: get non-volatile ram info.&lt;br /&gt;
          proc: get information about processes.&lt;br /&gt;
          red: redemption interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          replay: replay interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          scene_cache: scene cache system interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          score: manipulate player scores.&lt;br /&gt;
          sound: sound system interface.&lt;br /&gt;
          textsafe: show text safe region.&lt;br /&gt;
          video_display: video display system interface.&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some more information can be found here:&lt;br /&gt;
 * https://docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/hardware/spike/connection.html&lt;br /&gt;
 * https://pastebin.com/raw/RryUb8iC&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main power supply is 48 volts @ 10.5 amps and has a cooling fan. Some versions have the fan on the front of the power supply while others may have the fan mounted on the top. Power supply is a Mean Well # RSP-500-48 (Jameco Electronics # 2198014).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:48V_power_supply.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Ghostbusters Pro 48 volt power supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ghostbusters wiring interconnection label.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_interconnect.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Ghostbusters interconnection wiring label]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Noisy Power Supply Fan====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There have been reports of the fan on the switching regulator 48 volt power supply becoming too loud. There is now a plug n play replacement fan kit. The fan in the kit is a lot quieter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/02140-spike-quiet-fan-plug-n-play-kit Spike Quiet Fan Kit]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Relocating the Power Switch====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One complaint with Spike machines is the fact the power on-off switch is located in the backbox. If the machine is located in a bank of machines, it may be difficult to reach the power switch. Some people have ordered a Stern # 515-7085-00 Power Switch and Bracket assembly and mounted it in the usual right front bottom cabinet location. Then wires are run up to the backbox and connected in place of the backbox power switch. Stern installs a shaker motor in the right front of the cabinet now. So the shaker motor (if installed) must be relocated farther back in the cabinet (about 6 inches) to the other side of the wooden divider.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-onoff-rocker-switch-and-bracket-assembly.html Stern Power Switch and Mounting Bracket Assembly]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the MPU doesn&#039;t boot, check that the memory card is firmly seated in its slot on the MPU board.  Also, you can try re-seating the memory card.  Sometimes this fixes Spike games that won&#039;t boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some reset/slam tilt problems have been traced to the shaker motor. Please check the service advisory bulletin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Stern-ShakerMotorAdvisory.pdf Shaker motor service advisory]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Pirates of the Caribbean (a S.A.M. board set game), Stern replaced the normal Plasma Dot Matrix Display on European models with an LED variant because of the RoHS law. They first used PinLED DMDs, and later, switched to a red DMD specifically made for them (520-5052-05). The debate which looks better will be going on for your remaining lifetime and continue right into your next few lives.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====LED DMD bad vertical line====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern-LED-DMD-Bad.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Stern bad LED DMD]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a game is always showing a semi-bright vertical line on the DMD, usually one of the LED segments is bad. Fortunately the bad segment can be found easily. As shown in the picture to the left, one pixel in the line is always dark. This 8x8 segment is the bad guy and needs to be replaced. The good thing is that this problem usually occurs with NIB games just after a few hours or days of game play so the DMD is still under warranty. If not, ask Stern for the availability of the LED segments. When replacing a block, be advised that the vias are small and are difficult to remove without the proper equipment. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Spike 1 cpu board connector CN1 is the 2 channel backbox speaker output (two 4 ohm @ 10 watt 4 inch square speakers, use Stern # 031-5004-02). Connector CN4 is the lower cabinet woofer speaker output (one 8 ohm @ 20 watt 8 inch round speaker, use Stern # 031-5007-01).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CN1 pinout:&lt;br /&gt;
*1: Black-White backbox right speaker -.&lt;br /&gt;
*2: Red-White backbox right speaker +.&lt;br /&gt;
*3: Key&lt;br /&gt;
*4: Black backbox left speaker -.&lt;br /&gt;
*5: Red backbox left speaker +.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CN4 pinout:&lt;br /&gt;
*1: Yellow-Black lower cabinet woofer speaker output -.&lt;br /&gt;
*2: Yellow-White lower cabinet woofer speaker output +.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CN18 (TRS headphone 3.5mm jack) pinout:&lt;br /&gt;
*TIP: headphone left, 8 ohm, 200mw maximum output&lt;br /&gt;
*RING: headphone right, 8 ohm, 200mw maximum output&lt;br /&gt;
*SLEEVE: Audio ground&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CN27 Preamp (line) output to feed sound to an external monaural amplifier or subwoofer amplifier:&lt;br /&gt;
*1: Line out +, 600 ohms&lt;br /&gt;
*2: Line out ground&lt;br /&gt;
*3: Line out -, 600 ohms&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The latest game codes now have speaker impedance settings for whether 4 ohm or 8 ohm speakers are installed in the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
Added UTIL-&amp;gt;VOL adjustments, Speaker Balance, backbox speaker type, and cabinet speaker type for Spike 1 and 2 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
See [[Common Flipper Troubleshooting]] for general flipper information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_flipper_assembly.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Flipper assembly on Ghostbusters]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ghostbusters_pop_bumpers.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Ghostbusters pop bumper assemblies]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Opto problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Shaker Motor Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The shaker motor connects to connector CN16 (CN2 on early boards) on the cabinet node board located next to the plumb bob tilt. It will be labeled Shaker Motor. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The pinout of CN16 is this:&lt;br /&gt;
*1: Shaker motor - (Blue wire)&lt;br /&gt;
*2: Shaker motor - (optional extra connection)&lt;br /&gt;
*3: Shaker motor + (optional extra connection)&lt;br /&gt;
*4: Key&lt;br /&gt;
*5: Shaker motor + (Red wire)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Genuine Stern SPIKE Shaker motor causes mysterious slam tilts during game:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Stern-ShakerMotorAdvisory.pdf Service Advisory 2018]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your shaker motor is damaged or worn out, you can purchase just the motor itself if desired.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/replacement-motor-for-stern-shaker-kits.html Replacement Spike/Sam shaker motor only]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Third Party Shaker Motors====&lt;br /&gt;
All current SPIKE™ games allow for a shaker motor, but it should be a SPIKE shaker motor, not a SAM-system shaker motor (SAM is the previous system).  After the initial launch of SPIKE™ games, it was discovered that motors from third-party manufacturers (in particular Pinball Life) had a capacitor that caused problems, and will blow out the node board.&lt;br /&gt;
[https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB184.pdf Service Bulletin 184] advises against using third-party shaker motors entirely.  Installation will void the game&#039;s warranty.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The symptom of this problem is that the Start button, plumb bob, and coin door GI lamps won&#039;t work; that is, the game becomes unplayable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some owners have reported that removing the capacitor from the third-party motor will fix the problem.  Stern&#039;s public position is that owners should spend the extra money and buy an OEM motor.  Many vendors do not clearly differentiate between an OEM part and a third-party part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-factory-authorized-shaker-motor-kit-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-games.html Genuine Stern Spike shaker motor kit]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-c-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-games.html Third party Spike shaker motor kit]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All SPIKE system games already have the holes for a shaker motor pre-drilled and 10-32 T-Nuts already installed for mounting the shaker motor to the right of the cashbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Missing Playfield Slide Brackets on Pro Models===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with the Pro model of WWE, Stern removed the playfield slide brackets and replaced them with a couple of cheap pieces of threaded rod covered in heat shrink tubing and a ball shooter tip. This was so you could pull the playfield toward you a bit and rest those &amp;quot;pegs&amp;quot; on the lockdown receiver to service under the playfield. That didn&#039;t work very well if you needed to get to something at the very back of the playfield. Pinball Life has reproduced the playfield slide brackets as a set. Once installed, the playfield can be pulled out a lot farther to make it easier to work at the rear of the playfield. Premium and LE models already have the playfield slide brackets installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-pinball-support-slide-bracket-kit-for-spike-spike-2-machines.html Spike cabinet playfield slide bracket kit]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note:  It now appears, starting with Iron Maiden, that Stern has gone back to installing the metal slide brackets on the bottom of the playfields on Pro models.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==References==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Ghostbusters Premium and LE models&#039;&#039;&#039; damaged Ecto Goggles LCD screen. Air balls flying up and hitting/damaging the LCD screen on the Ecto Goggles unit. Stern issued a service bulletin about this problem and came up with a metal shield to install on the machine to prevent this from happening.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB187-1.pdf Ecto Goggles Shield Kit Service Bulletin]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=American_Pinball_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=21241</id>
		<title>American Pinball Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=American_Pinball_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=21241"/>
		<updated>2021-10-28T02:22:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Games */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;For history of American Pinball see [[American Pinball]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Introduction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Manufacturer&#039;s website: https://www.american-pinball.com/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
American Pinball, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
1448 Yorkshire Drive&lt;br /&gt;
Streamwood, ILL. 60107&lt;br /&gt;
Telephone: (847) 893-6800&lt;br /&gt;
info@american-pinball.com&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Games ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Houdini]] || 12-2017 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Oktoberfest || 03-2019 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Wheels || 06-2020 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Legends of Valhalla || 10-2021 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Technical Info ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Game Code Updates ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game code updates can be downloaded here: https://www.american-pinball.com/support/updates/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a USB jack located near the service outlet in which a thumb drive loaded with the update can be plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Manuals ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Oktoberfest-Manual-new.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Assemblies Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Assembly.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/AP_Houdini-Service-Manual_091018.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hot Wheels Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2020-7/Hot-Wheels-Manual-7-13-2020.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Boards ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; (PCB0021-01) on Houdini controls the Start Button LED (12 volts), Shaker Motor (12 volts), and Knocker Coil (48 volts). It can control a maximum of 7 devices.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
American Pinball uses the MultiMorphic board sets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P3-ROC CPU (PCB0002-00)&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 board &lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 board (PCB0004-00)&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED2 board (PCB0008-00)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Power Supplies ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The power supply which operates the coils is a Mean Well model RSP-750-48 (48 volts @ 15 amps, 750 watts). Jameco Electronics has it as their stock number 2172148. Some machines may have a Velika (www.best-force.com) model S-800-48 (48v @ 16.7 amps) power supply installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Displays ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Main monitor in backbox is 15.6&amp;quot; Monitor Assembly # MASM0026-00. It is an Astouch model A156-OPD01 which operates on 12 volts DC @ 4 amps. The Stage Monitor is 4.3&amp;quot; screen size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_Astouch_monitor.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Astouch monitor in a Houdini]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Speakers ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses the following speakers:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) midbass 4&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE005-00&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) midbass 3&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE004-00&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) tweeters 2&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE0003-00&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no woofer speaker in the bottom cabinet of Houdini.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_no_woofer.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Houdini does not have a woofer]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Flippers ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses Williams WPC style flipper assemblies. The flipper coil is a lugless type with a connector already on it so no soldering is needed. Just plug/unplug the coil. American Pinball coil # COL0003-00. End of stroke switches are normally open when the flipper is at rest and closes when the flipper is energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Cabinet Parts ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ball shooter assembly is the common Williams shooter housing and sleeve combo, but the housing is powder coated to match the game it&#039;s installed on. Coin door is a Happ Controls door with the four pushbutton switches much like a Stern Spike system door. Caution note: Houdini uses 12 volt dc coin door LED bulbs. Power switch and service outlet are in the normal locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_menu_buttons.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Coin door diagnostic/menu buttons]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems and Solutions ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Power Supplies ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_48v_power_supply.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Houdini 48 volt power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_service_outlet.JPG|200px|thumb|center|Houdini service outlet and power switch]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Solenoid Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Coil driver transistors are type IRL540N (N channel FET).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Switch Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Lamp Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== General Illumination Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Controlled Lamp Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Display Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sound Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses a Lepy model LP-168S or Lepai LP-168HA (sold by Parts Express) super bass power amplifier. Specs are 2 X 40 watt amplifier and 1 X 68 watt subwoofer output. Owner&#039;s manual for the LP-168HA is located here:&lt;br /&gt;
https://lepaiaudio.com/docs/manuals/310-308--lp-168ha-manual.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Lepy LP-168S is a knockoff (counterfeit) of the Lepai LP-168HA:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://lepaiaudio.com/counterfeit/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_Lepy_LP168S_amplifier.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Lepy LP-168S amplifier]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Flipper Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams WPC style flipper assemblies. End of stroke switches are normally open when the flipper is at rest. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A common problem is the flipper gets stuck in the up position. This can be due to a broken flipper return spring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-flipper-spring-set&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Pop Bumper Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses the black color Data East/Sega pop bumper assemblies.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Optional Equipment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These are some of the optional accessory equipment available for American Pinball machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Shaker Motor Kit # KIT0001-00 (plugs into &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; )&lt;br /&gt;
* Knocker Kit # KIT0002-00 (adds a real knocker, plugs into &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; )&lt;br /&gt;
* Add On Driver Board # PCB0021-01 (allows connection of accessory items such as shaker motor and knocker)&lt;br /&gt;
* End Of Stroke Switch Kit # KIT0004-00 (for Houdini flippers, corrects flipper problems)&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Power Supply Upgrade # MASM0132-00 (Houdini only, operates coils better than original power supply)&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Topper # MASM0071-00 (includes ac power adapter)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Bill Acceptors ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini comes factory pre-wired for 120 volt AC power Mars bill acceptors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest comes factory pre-wired for 12 volt DC bill acceptors. Use ICT model A6-25SCP-USD4-II.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game Specific Problems and Fixes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini weak or erratic odd feeling flippers: Early production Houdini machines did not have End-of-Stroke switches on the flipper assemblies. Order Kit # KIT0004-00 End Of Stroke switch kit.&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/collections/all/products/houdini-end-of-stroke-switch  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini coils are weak: Early production Houdini machines need an additional 48 volt power supply for the coils. Order kit # MASM0132-00 Power Supply Upgrade Kit:&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-power-supply-upgrade&lt;br /&gt;
Also install Houdini Coil Performance Improvement Kit # KIT0006-00&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Service Bulletins ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Scoop Adjustment: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/SCOOP-ADJUSTMENT.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Coil Performance Improvement Kit: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2020-8/Houdini--Coil-Performance-Improvement-Kit.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Dollar Bill Acceptor Fix: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2021-6/12v-DC-and-120v-AC-Dollar-Bill-Acceptor-connector.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Skill Shot Fix: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-5/Houdini-Skill-Shot-Fix.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Speaker Grill Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/Speaker-Grill-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Stage Door Servo Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Stage-Door-Servo-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; (for connecting accessories): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-9/Add-On-Board.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini EOS Installation (flippers): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-10/End-Of-Stroke-Switch.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Knocker Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Knocker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Power Supply Kit (48 volts): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/Power-Supply-Kit-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Shaker Motor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/Shaker.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Knocker Kit Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-5/Knocker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Power Distribution Wiring: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/Power-Distribution.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Shaker Motor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Oktoberfest-Shaker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Bar Door Not Working: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Bar-Door-Check.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Dollar Bill Acceptor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-6/Wire-Diagram-DBA.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Add On Board Wiring: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-5/New-Add-On-Board.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80&amp;diff=21240</id>
		<title>Gottlieb System 80</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80&amp;diff=21240"/>
		<updated>2021-10-27T16:24:55Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Slam Switch Modification */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Gottlieb_Repair_Guides | Gottlieb® solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 1st gen boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Set - 1st Generation ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
			&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb&#039;s® second generation of solid state pinballs is System 80.  Capabilities were increased in terms of controllable lamps, solenoids, gameplay, and sound.  No longer tied to an EM-esque platform, Gottlieb® started to introduce games with more unconventional asymmetric playfields.  System 80 marked a foray into double and triple level playfields, speech, and multiball. Unfortunately, it also represented a lateral step in reliability, with battery corrosion, connectors, and bad grounding plaguing the design.  Nearly all the same issues as were present with the System 1 platform.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
			&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80cabinet.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Set - 2nd Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the System 1 games, the System 80 / 80A / 80B design relied solely on connectors and daisy-chained wiring to transport the ground lines from board to board. The exception is that the large ground plane used with System 1 games was no longer used behind the boards with the System 80 games. Gottlieb® still opted to use plastic standoffs to elevate and secure the boards to the backbox or the back side of the lamp box insert. Thus, if a single ground connector failed in the chain, the logic ground could fail for one or several of the circuit boards. This could potentially lead to locked on coils, relays, and / or controlled lamps. In turn, transistors and chips would fail.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Later gtb sys80a boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Board Set]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 platform was used for a total of nine years from 1980-1989.  During this period, there were three main versions of the boardset.  These three versions are referred to as: System 80, System 80A, and System 80B.  System 80 was used from 1980-1982, System 80A was used from 1982-1985, and System 80B was used from 1985-1989.  The easiest way to differentiate between the three versions is by looking at the style of displays which were used.  System 80 used 6-digit displays for scoring, and in some instances, for bonus values or timers.  System 80A used 7-digit displays for scoring, and 6-digit displays for bonus values or timers too.  Both the 6-digit and 7-digit displays were limited to displaying numeric values.  System 80B differed the most by using two 20-digit alpha-numeric displays, which were stacked on top of each other.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Early gtb sys80b boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Early]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shortly after the onset of using the System 80B boardset, it was evident that the complexity of playfield designs had quickly outgrown the boardset.  Remote satellite boards, and transistors littered the underside of the playfield and inside the cabinet, because the driver board was too undersized to handle these extra duties.  A new boardset, known as the System 3 platform, was under development, but was not released until nearly 4 years later in 1990.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
	 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Typical gtb sys80b boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Typical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Later 80B Backbox.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Later Games (Hot Shots, Bad Girls, and Big House]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once a System 80 / 80A / 80B game has been methodically gone through with board design grounding flaws and connectors corrected, they are just as reliable as any of their contemporaries.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 Prototype===&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Incredible Hulk || 1979 || Unknown || 500 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit || A small number of games were used as a testing platform, which featured the system 80 boardset instead of the system 1 boardset.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 1st Generation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Amazing Spiderman|| 05-1980 || 7625 || 653 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Panthera|| 06-1980 || 5220 || 652 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||   6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Circus|| 06-1980 || 1700 || 654 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit || Ultra Widebody &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Counterforce|| 06-1980 || 3870 || 656 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||   6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Race|| 08-1980 || 870 || 657 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit || Ultra Widebody  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 2nd Generation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Sound&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|James Bond|| 10-1980 || 3625 || 658 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Time Line|| 12-1980 || 3167 || 659 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Force II|| 12-1981 || 2000 || 661 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pink Panther|| 03-1981 || 2840 || 664 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mars God of War|| 03-1981 || 5240 || 666 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || First Gottlieb® with speech, lane change, and multi-ball&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano|| 09-1981 || 3655 || 667 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || Export games used [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Hole]]|| 10-1981 || 8774 || 668 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || First Gottlieb® with 2-Level playing area, Export games used [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board and a simple single backglass with no spinning disc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Haunted House]]|| 06-1982|| 6835 || 669 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 6-digit || First game with 3-Level playing area, Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board w/o the speech chip installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Eclipse|| 1982 || 193 || 671 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit || Production game and available as a kit for James Bond 007 &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Devil&#039;s Dare|| 08-1982 || 3832 || 670 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || Export games used the [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Caveman]]|| 09-1982 || 1800 || PV810 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || Pinball / Video game hybrid &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky|| 09-1982 || 1504 || 672 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spirit|| 11-1982 || 1230 || 673 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Punk!|| 12-1982 || 959 || 674 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Striker|| 11-1982 || 910 || 675 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Krull|| 02-1983 || 10 || 676 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Goin&#039; Nuts|| 02-1983|| 10 || 682 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Q*bert&#039;s Quest|| 03-1983 || 884 || 677 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Super Orbit|| 05-1983 || 2100 || 680 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Royal Flush Deluxe|| 06-1983 || 2000 || 681 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Amazon Hunt]]|| 09-1983 || 1515 || 684 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]] or [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board. Later production games used the [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|sound only]] piggyback sound board &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rack &#039;Em Up!|| 11-1983 || 1762 || 685 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Ready... Aim... Fire!|| 11-1983 || 390 || 686 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jacks to Open|| 05-1984 || 2350 || 687 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alien Star|| 06-1984 || 1065 || 689 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || 689A Denotes a revision in the ROM code&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Games|| 08-1984|| 1768 || 691 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Touchdown|| 10-1984 || 711 || 688 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|El Dorado City of Gold|| 09-1984 || 905 || 692 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Ice Fever|| 02-1985 || 1585 || 695 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Chicago Cubs Triple Play|| 05-1985 || ~1365 || 696 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bounty Hunter|| 07-1985 || 1220 || 694 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tag Team Pinball|| 09-1985 || 1220 || 698 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] ||  Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock|| 10-1985 || 1875 || 697 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 || DIP switches 7 and 8, while listed as &amp;quot;spares&amp;quot;, 7 is actually used to turn attract sounds on / off.  There is an addendum added to the first page of the manual stating as such.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Raven|| 03-1986 || 3550 || 702 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock Encore|| 04-1986 || 245 || 704 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||Production game using same playfield art as Rock, but mainly available as a conversion kit for Rock&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hollywood Heat|| 06-1986 || 3400 || 703 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| 09-1986 || 3500 || 705 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| 10-1986 || 3260 || 707 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| 04-1987 || 3550 || 706 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| 02-1987 || 4315 || 708 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]||  Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Arena|| 06-1987 || 3099 || 709 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]||Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| 10-1987 || 3315 || 710 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diamond Lady|| 02-1988 || 2700 || 711 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|TX Sector|| 03-1988 || 2336 || 712 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| 04-1988 || 2130 || 714 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Excalibur|| 11-1988 || 1710 || 715 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||Start of the MA-1133 CPU Board. No actual speech callouts are present in this game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| 11-1988 || 2500 || 717 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big House|| 04-1989 || 1977 || 713 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Shots|| 04-1989 || 2342 || 718 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters Inc.|| 08-1989 || 2000 || 719 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 || Uses 3 sound boards - uses 50v to power flippers &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release, production numbers, and model number provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Recommended Documentation===&lt;br /&gt;
====Manuals====&lt;br /&gt;
* A game manual.  Pinball Resource has many factory originals still left, and reprints of everything else.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Repair Guides====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gottlieb Star Series 80 Service Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Gottlieb-star-series-80-service-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]][[file:Gottlieb-star-series-80-service-manual-cover-alt.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Information on how system 80 operates, with troubleshooting information outlined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1983 Technical Seminar Workbook&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Information on how system 80 operates, with troubleshooting information outlined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parts Catalogs====&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; schematics, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Gottlieb tended to publish a lot of game-specific information in parts catalogs. These have exploded diagrams of assemblies, particularly in earlier games that had the thinner, much less helpful manuals. Playfield parts, lamps, and switches are all diagrammed out. These also have collected service bulletins. Reprints are available from Pinball Resource.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1982 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1982-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Counter Force, Star Race, James Bond, Time Line, Force II, Pink Panther, Mars God Of War, Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, Caveman, Rocky. This catalog also features system 1 games.&lt;br /&gt;
|Includes parts assemblies, plus switch matrix and controlled lamp locations, board layouts, schematics, and board parts lists, coin door parts, and some cabinet parts. Includes System 1 and 80 parts and boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1987 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1987-parts-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, Rocky, Spirit, Rock, Striker, Q*bert&#039;s Quest, Super Orbit, Royal Flush, Amazon Hunt, Rack &#039;Em Up, The Games, Chicago Cubs Triple Play, Rock Encore, Ready Aim Fire, Touchdown, Bounty Hunter, Raven, Jacks To Open, El Dorado City Of Gold, Tag Team, Hollywood Heat, Alien Star, Ice Fever, Rock, Genesis&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1992 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1992-parts-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Covers 80B games starting from Gold Wings and the first 9 System 3 titles (games #706-#730).&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One interesting note about the part numbers is that the single letter that preceded the number indicated the size of the paper that was used for the original drawing/blueprint of the part. Paper sizes A up through F were used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connector Designations===&lt;br /&gt;
All Gottlieb® machines have a common naming convention for all of the connectors in the game.  A specific connection uses two parts - a prefix and a suffix.  The prefix is the board number or an inline wire junction, and the suffix is the connection on the board or a sequential wire junction number.  When referencing a specific connector pin within a housing, a dash follows the connection number.  For example, the connector pin for the slam switch signal on the CPU board is A1J5-10.  The coin door connection used on Devil&#039;s Dare is A15P1 and A15J1 - the connector pin for switch return 7 on the coin door is A15J1-8.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following boards are assigned the same numbers throughout the System 80 / 80A / 80B platforms.&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU Board - A1&lt;br /&gt;
*Power Supply - A2&lt;br /&gt;
*Driver Board - A3&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound Board - A6&lt;br /&gt;
*Pop Bumper Driver Boards - A8&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset Board - A24&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are several other board designations used, however, they change from game to game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Wiring Color Code===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unlike every other pinball manufacturer, which adopted a two-color wiring code system, Gottlieb® used three colors.  Most wiring in a Gottlieb® game used a white base color, which is the wire&#039;s insulation color, and three &amp;quot;striped&amp;quot; traces on each wire.  I state most cases, because there are some wires which only used two colors - the green insulated ground lines which have a single yellow trace, or only one color - the white ground wires used in System 80B games with no trace at all.  Below is the Gottlieb® color chart.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!0&lt;br /&gt;
!1&lt;br /&gt;
!2&lt;br /&gt;
!3&lt;br /&gt;
!4&lt;br /&gt;
!5&lt;br /&gt;
!6&lt;br /&gt;
!7&lt;br /&gt;
!8&lt;br /&gt;
!9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Color || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Black&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#A52A2A&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Brown &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FFA500&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Orange &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#800080&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Purple &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#808080&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Gray &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; White &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
Does the color chart look familiar?  Well, if you have an electronics background, it should.  The Gottlieb® wire code system is the same as the resistor color coding system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some examples of the color coding system.  The color wire code for switch strobe line 0 is 400.  400 would be a white insulated wire with a yellow trace and two black traces, or commonly referred to as a yellow-black-black wire.  The ground lines in early System 80 games are code 54.  54 would be a green insulated wire with one yellow trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is one word of caution, which should be pointed out.  If the connections on A1J2 and A1J3 are being replaced, there are wire colors on these connections which are very similar.  Although each wire is located on a different housing, please proceed with caution, as it can be difficult to see all three traces without spinning the wire around.  The wires which come to mind are 344 and 677 on A1J2, and 433 and 766 on A1J3.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Wire Coloring====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80A1J6SwitchMatrixWireColors.png|right|thumb|500px|Gottlieb® System 80 Switch Matrix Wire Coloring at Connector A1J6. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Illustration provided with permission of Sascha Voskuil aka Zaza.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
Wire colors used for the switch matrix, as connected to A1J6 on the MPU, were identical across all Gottlieb System 80/80A/80B games. They are, from pin 1 to 19, and right-to-left &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(backwards)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; as you view the front of the connector as installed on the MPU...&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-black-black&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-brown-brown&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-red-red&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-orange-orange&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-yellow-yellow&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-green-green&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-blue-blue&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-purple-purple&lt;br /&gt;
#white (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-black-black&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-brown-brown&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-red-red&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-orange-orange&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-yellow-yellow&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-green-green&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-blue-blue&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-purple-purple&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-slate-slate (+5VDC)&lt;br /&gt;
#empty&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; that not all games use all rows and/or all columns of the switch matrix. Unused switch matrix circuits are left wired.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Switch Numbering====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 switch matrix.png|left|thumb|600px|Gottlieb® System 80 Switch Matrix]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A / 80B switch matrix consists of a maximum of 64 switches.  There are a total of 8 switch strobes and 8 switch returns. However, not every switch in the matrix is used on every System 80 game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the System 1 switch numbering system, the System 80 switch numbers have a similar naming convention.  Except, the System 80 switch numbering system is the opposite of System 1.  If you are accustomed to working on System 1 games, pay close attention.  With Gottlieb® System 80 switches the first number of the switch is its strobe number, while the second number is switch&#039;s return number.  An example would be switch 54.  Switch 54 is located on strobe 5 and return 4 of the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 0&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-1 / A1J5-2)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 1&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-2 / A1J5-3)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 2&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-3 / A1J5-4)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 3&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-4 / A1J5-5)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-5 / A1J5-6)&lt;br /&gt;
! Strobe 5&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-6 / A1J5-7)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 6&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-7)&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 7&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-8 / A1J5-9)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 0 (A1J6-10)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 10&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 20&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 30&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 40&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 50&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 60&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 70&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 1 (A1J6-11)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 11&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 21&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 31&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 41&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 51&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 61&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 71&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 2 (A1J6-12)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 02&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 12&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 22&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 32&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 42&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 52&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 62&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 72&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 3 (A1J6-13)&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 03&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 13&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 26&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 33&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 43&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 53&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 63&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 73&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 4 (A1J6-14)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 04&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 14&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 24&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 34&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 44&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 54&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 64&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 74&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 5 (A1J6-15)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 05&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 15&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 25&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 35&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 45&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 55&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 65&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 75&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 6&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-16 / A1J5-8)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 06&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 16&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 26&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 36&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 46&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 56&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 66&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 76&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 7&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-17 / A1J5-1)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 07&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 17&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 27&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 37&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 47&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 57&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 67&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 77&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The &amp;quot;Missing&amp;quot; Gottlieb® System 80 Switches====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the Gottlieb® System 80 series of games, there are some switch assignments that are designated the same throughout the System 80, 80A, and 80B platforms.  These switches are typically not listed in the switch matrix portion of the manual.  You have to review the cabinet schematics, and decipher what switches use what return and strobe.  However, it appears that Gottlieb® / Premier® changed this section of the schematic starting with Excalibur or Bad Girls by no longer listing the strobes for these switches.  So, below are the &amp;quot;missing&amp;quot; switch assignments for any Sys80B.  All the info applies for Sys80 and Sys80A, except the two advance buttons, which weren&#039;t used prior to Sys80B.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;06&#039;&#039;&#039; - left advance button, also pause both lamp and relay/ solenoid tests (Sys80B only)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;07&#039;&#039;&#039; - play / test switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039; - right advance button (Sys80B only)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;17&#039;&#039;&#039; - left coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;27&#039;&#039;&#039; - right coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;37&#039;&#039;&#039; - center coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;47&#039;&#039;&#039; - replay button&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;57&#039;&#039;&#039; - plumb bob and ball roll tilts (these have the same switch assignment as the playfield tilt switch)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Black Hole is an exception.  The switch assigned for the tilt on Black Hole is 26.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The coin door slam switch is not part of the switch matrix.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Language Selection ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only way to change the language displayed is to install the correct language ROMs. Gottlieb didn’t incorporate a “soft” method of changing language selection. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Enabling Free Play===&lt;br /&gt;
Free play options were unavailable in the original System 80/80A/80B game code. However, there are some hardware modifications that can be done, stacked switches can be added to the start/credit button, or  EPROMs with free play code can replace original PROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play EPROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
For system 80/80A, the U2/U3 PROMs can be replaced with an [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Freeplay_EN.php EPROM with free play code]. Replacing U2/U3 will require an adapter, such as the [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=140-101 module from GreatPlainsElectronics], a [http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/sys80mod.php#system custom adapter board], or the Swemmer Electornics U2/U3 Adapter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 80B, the game PROM can be replaced with an [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php EPROM with free play code].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80 Games====&lt;br /&gt;
Early Gottlieb® solid state pinball machines, prior to 1990, did not have a free play option available within the game settings.  With this simple modification, a game can be set up for free play.  First, identify the diode strip in the bottom of the cabinet.  Once the diode strip is found, locate the credit button and coin switch strobe line wires.  The wires will be located on the left of the diode strip - the non-banded side of the diodes.  Below is a list of the wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Credit button wire - Green-Yellow-Yellow&lt;br /&gt;
* Left coin switch wire - Green-Brown-Brown&lt;br /&gt;
* Center coin switch wire - Green-Orange-Orange&lt;br /&gt;
* Right coin switch wire - Green-Red-Red&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtbsys80board.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical location of System 80 diode board in cabinet]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80FreePlayJumper.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 Black Hole diode board with jumper (yellow wire) to implement free play]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder a small lead wire from the credit button wire to any of the coin switch wires.  The wires will change to different colors on the other side of the diode. You want to solder to the side of the diode (non-banded) with the color wire specified above. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make certain that the diode, credit button wire, and coin switch wire are still soldered securely to the diode strip terminal when finished.  If soldering is not an option, use a small alligator clip test lead.  Now, when the credit button is pressed, a credit will be incremented and decremented.  A game can be easily started without the need to open the coin door to trip the coin switches anymore.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that this modification does not apply to Gottlieb® System 80A and System 80B machines.  System 80A and 80B machines use diode boards with edge connections, which are typically located on the cabinet wall near the left flipper cabinet switch.  Jumpering the diodes on System 80A and 80B games do not give the intended free play results of jumpered System 80 diodes.  This is attributed to how the diode boards are physically placed differently in circuit with respect to the switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TimeLineFreePlay.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Time Line diode board with jumper (the red wire...I mean...it&#039;s a red flippin&#039; wire. You HAVE to be able to see it!) to implement free play]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left ties the center coin chute wire (Green-Orange-Orange) to the credit button wire (Green-Yellow-Yellow).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80A Games====&lt;br /&gt;
There is no method to implement free play for System 80A games at this time, other than &amp;quot;stacking&amp;quot; the credit button switch with one of the coin drop switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80B Games====&lt;br /&gt;
A System 80B game does not have a built-in free play option available, so the fallback option to add credits is usually to open the coin door and trip the coin switches. However, there are a couple of methods that can be used to avoid doing that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Free Play Diode Board Modification=====&lt;br /&gt;
Locate the diode board used for all of the coin door switches. Remove the diode board. Add a jumper between pin 4 and pin 10 of the diode board on the solder side of the board, (this can be done on the component side instead). Make certain that the jumper is soldered onto the banded side of the diodes. This jumper essentially ties the right advance button on the front of the cabinet to the center coin switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, when the right advance button is pressed, credits will be added to the game. There have not been any ill side effects observed when the right advance button is pressed while scrolling through characters used to enter high score initials.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An alternative method that achieves the same result is to use a jumper wire with minigrabber ends and clip them on to the bottom of the 4th and 9th diodes (from the right) on the front of the board. This requires no soldering and you don&#039;t even have to remove the diode board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The jumper modification should work on games from Chicago Cubs Triple Play to Excalibur. It is unconfirmed if it will work on Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Bone Busters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400 class=center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board.JPG|Typical location of System 80B diode board on cabinet wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added.JPG|Added jumper to back of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Location_Front.JPG|Location to add jumper to front of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added_To_Front.JPG|Added minigrabber jumper to front of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Free Play ROM=====&lt;br /&gt;
Another option is a free play ROM, produced by a group of kindly fellows in France. By burning the revised image into a 2764, and installing the new ROM on the daughter card, the game will now be on free play. Their implementation notices when zero credits are on the game and the credit button has been pressed. The new code then adds 20 credits to the game, and starts a game. The System 80B free play ROMs can be found [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bookkeeping &amp;amp; Diagnostics ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 test button.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Coin Door Test Button Highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To enter the bookkeeping / diagnostic mode, open the coin door and press the red momentary switch. (Note this switch has no credit function)  Depending on the particular game, the self test button may be mounted on a bracket located on the coin door or just inside the cabinet near the coin door hinge.  Upon pressing this button, the 4-digit status display used with System 80 and System 80A games will display &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; in the credit window. Pressing the self test button again will advance to the next step in the bookkeeping.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an option to bypass all of the bookkeeping functions, entering diagnostic mode directly.  To achieve this, the self test button must first be pressed.  &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; will shown on the status display.  Then, the credit / start button should be pressed once.  The status display should now show &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;. &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; is the first test in diagnostic mode.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Bookkeeping (System 80/80A)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1 - Coins thru left chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2 - Coins thru right chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3 - Coins thru center chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4 - Total plays&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5 - Total replays&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6 - Game percentage&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7 - Extra ball&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
8 - Total tilts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
9 - Total slam tilts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
10 - Number of times the HSTD has been beaten&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
11 - First high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
12 - Second high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
13 - Third high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
14 - High score to date score&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
15 - Average game time &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Diagnostics&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
16 - Lamp test&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
17 - Coil test (will cycle and display coil number of coils used in the game. Coin counter coils, if installed, are excluded)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
18 - Switch test. (99 = no switches closed)  You can check switch numbers by pressing them on the playfield during this step.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
19 - Display test. The displays will cycle through each digit&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
20 - Memory test. (99 = no fault)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80-7641-2Error.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 &amp;quot;7641&amp;quot; Error]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An example of a ROM image checksum error (or perhaps a ROM memory access error) displayed during test 20 is pictured at left. During test 20, if a checksum error is detected, the ROM code in U2/U3 will indicate &amp;quot;7641-X&amp;quot; in the player 1 display window, with &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; being &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; to indicate PROM 1 or &amp;quot;2&amp;quot; to indicate PROM 2. If you have followed the procedure to combine the original game ROMs into a single 2716, this error message is an indicator that the checksum of either the 1st half or the 2nd half of that ROM failed. Replace the ROM.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B uses the same process as System 80/80A to enter bookkeeping / diagnostics.  The only difference is upon pushing the self test button the first time, the top alphanumeric display will display &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;TEST MODE&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;.  Pressing the self test button again will enter bookkeeping mode, while pressing the credit / start button will enter diagnostics mode.  After entering either mode, pressing the self test button will advance through each step in the appropriate mode.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any of the tests in diagnostics can be repeated by simply pressing the credit / start button.  This applies to all versions of System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following also applies to all System 80 platforms.  To exit bookkeeping or diagnostics, the slam switch or tilt switch can be triggered.  Equally, waiting 60 seconds will reset the CPU back to attract mode. This is probably the only benefit in keeping the slam switch functional.  However, considering the sometimes strange side effects, which can arise from a maladjusted or malfunctioning slam switch, [[Gottlieb_System_80#Slam_Switch_Modification | disabling the slam switch]] would probably the better approach.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Default High Score To Date (HSTD)====&lt;br /&gt;
If a high score to date is not explicitly set (setting 14), then some (most) games use a default HSTD of either 770,000 or 790,000. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Pausing the Lamp and Solenoid Test (System 80B Only)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80B left advance.jpg|left|thumb|150px|The left advance button on a System 80B Game]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The following only applies to System 80B lamp and solenoid tests.  A little known fact is that the lamp and solenoid tests can be &amp;quot;paused&amp;quot; on a single lamp or single solenoid.  To stop whichever item is being tested during lamp or solenoid test, and repeat the test on the particular item, simply push and hold in the left advance button located on the front of the cabinet, as shown in the picture to the left.  The left advance button can then be released, pressed, and held in again to step to the next item in the test.  This is a particularly nice feature, because the lamps and solenoids or relays tend to be pulsed rather quickly in test, and cannot be observed very well, until the test repeats itself.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Rubber Ring Chart===&lt;br /&gt;
Although the Gottlieb® System 80 game manuals do list the location and part numbers for rubber rings used, some fail to list the actual rubber ring size.  Below is a handy chart, which lists the Gottlieb® rubber OEM number and its size.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Gottlieb® #&lt;br /&gt;
!Description &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14793 ||23/64&amp;quot; White Mini-Post&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15705 ||27/64&amp;quot; White Mini-Post&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10217 ||5/16&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-17493 || 7/16&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10218 || 3/4&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10219 || 1&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10220 || 1-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10221 || 2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10222 || 2-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10223 || 3&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10224 || 3-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10225 || 4&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10226 || 5&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-13151 || 3/8 x 1-1/2&amp;quot; Standard Red Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-13149 || 3/8 x 1&amp;quot; - Small Beaded Red Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-1344 || Rebound Rubber&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1872 || Shooter Tip&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===[[System 80 / 80A / 80B Board Set]]===&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking the link above will direct you to a new page showing all of the System 80/80A/80B boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 boards 3.png‎|800px|center|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following functional block diagram depicts the main PCBs and the input/output signals between them (#n = wire count).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:sys80b_IO_lines.png|800px|center|Gottlieb® System 80/B functional blocks and I/O lines]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===[[System 80 / 80A / 80B Satellite Boards]]===&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking the link above will direct you to a new page showing all of the System 80/80A/80B satellite boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 psu.JPG‎|180px|thumb|left|System 80 / 80A Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 psu back.JPG|140px|thumb|right|System 80 / 80A Power Supply - Showing the Large Heat Sink]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 / 80A power supply is very similar to the System 1 power supply, where as the circuit board is secured to a large &amp;quot;hot plate&amp;quot; heat sink. This style power supply is used for all System 80 and 80A games from Spiderman to Ice Fever, and is the source of the following:&lt;br /&gt;
* +5 VDC logic power&lt;br /&gt;
*+8 VDC offset voltage needed for the displays&lt;br /&gt;
*+60 VDC for the 6 or 7 digit displays&lt;br /&gt;
*+42 VDC for the status display&lt;br /&gt;
*Ground from earth ground located on the transformer panel&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unlike the System 1 power supply, the +5 VDC logic power is no longer rectified and filtered on the power supply itself.  This process is now handled by a bridge rectifier and a large filtering capacitor located on the transformer panel.  The System 80 power still employs a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crowbar_%28circuit%29 crowbar circuit] for the logic power, which protects from over-voltage situations.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although these power supplies are fairly reliable, there are some drawbacks to the design.  By incorporating a large heat sink for the PMD10K40 / 2N6059 TO-3 transistor on the board, a lot of heat is dissipated throughout the whole board.  This in turn will limit the life expectancy of the other electronic components on the board.  Equally, the heat sink must be removed in order to perform component level repairs to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply==== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A sound &amp;amp; speech board (S&amp;amp;S) is used starting with Mars God of War (MGOW).  Because of the voltages needed to drive some of the components on the S&amp;amp;S board, this secondary power supply is added to the power train.  The voltages generated from this board are:&lt;br /&gt;
*+12 VDC used for the analog inverters and voice synthesizer chip&lt;br /&gt;
*-12 VDC used for the analog inverters&lt;br /&gt;
*+30 VDC used by the sound amplifier (LM379)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 sands power1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply (1st Generation)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are two different variations of this power supply.  The first style is used only with MGOW and Volcano, and is not a printed circuit board (PCB).  The electronic components were screwed to a block of wood, which is located on the left wall of the lower cabinet.  Conducting tests and repairs to this style power supply can be awkward and difficult.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 s&amp;amp;s psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply (2nd Generation)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Black Hole, the S&amp;amp;S power supply is now on a circuit board (MA-188), which is located in the head of the game with the other circuit boards.  Even though each style of S&amp;amp;S power supply uses different components for the generation of +12 VDC, the end result is the same.  The S&amp;amp;S power supply was no longer used when Gottlieb® went a step backwards, and installed the System 80A sounds only board with the piggyback board.  This change occurred during the run of Amazon Hunt.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The generation 1 and generation 2 sound board power supplies are not pin compatible. One could be exchanged for the other by rearranging connections of a 9-pin molex connector. However, this is not recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Power Supplies====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Chicago Cubs, the Gottlieb® power train went through a bit of a face lift. The System 80B platform uses two separate boards to supply power.  This design change is mainly due to the single display board, which rectifies the high voltage on the board itself.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B +5 VDC Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The small power supply with the finned heat sink is only used to generate +5 VDC for logic power.  Although, removing the heat sink is not necessary to work on the board, this power supply has its own set of issues.  First, it does not have a crow bar circuit.  If the LM338K voltage regulator fails, and fails whereas the voltage increases drastically, it can destroy electronic components on the other circuit boards.  Secondly, it&#039;s not as bad, but heat is still dissipated throughout the board.  Third, the adjustable potentiometer (pot) on the power supply is prone to failure, due to dirt, dust, and contaminants.  Finally, it is typical for the header pins on the input and output of the board to develop cracked solder joints.  The two latter problems can easily be overcome, and will be addressed in the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Repairs_for_the_System_80B_Power_Supply_Board Recommended Repairs for the System 80B Power Supply Board] section below.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b aux psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Rock, the second power supply is added, and is referred to as the auxiliary power supply. The primary functions of this board is used to power the sound board, and amplify the audio output. This sound amplifier board is used in concert with MA-766 and MA-886 sound boards. A breakdown of the voltages supplied by the auxiliary power supply are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*-12 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
*+12 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80B-MA1017AuxPowerSupply.jpg |200px|thumb|left|System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply with .156 headers versus edge connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BoneBustersSpecificAmpBoard.jpg |200px|thumb|right|A BoneBusters Inc specific Auxiliary Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This Auxiliary Power Supply board changed with the release of Bad Girls. Edge connections were no longer used. Instead, .156&amp;quot; header pins were added to the board as shown at left. Note that the System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply board is slightly different from the System 3 Auxiliary Power Supply board. The System 80B board uses a 1K ohm, 2 watt resistor at R8. The System 3 board uses a 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistor at that location.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=347 Bone Busters Inc.] uniquely used a modified Auxiliary Power Supply board as pictured at right. A connection was made between pin 12 and the intersection of R1 and R2 to connect the audio output of the second, less populated sound board to the amplifier circuitry. A 1.8K ohm 1/4 watt resistor makes the connection while balancing the audio level from this input. No other game used pin 12 or this configuration.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 cpu divided.png‎|200px|left|thumb|Gottlieb® System 80 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 CPU board is a 6502 based microprocessor system. The 6502 microprocessor (the very same one used in the first Apple computer and the Atari 2600) executes the basic operating system contained in the masked ROMs at U2/U3.  The masked ROMs at U2 and U3 have the same code for all of the different generations of the System 80 platform.  U2 and U3 code changed with the System 80A platform.  The game code &amp;quot;personality&amp;quot; augments the basic operating system PROM(s).  Early System 80 games which used two ROMs at PROM1 and PROM2 positions were masked ROMs.  Later, when the game code could be held in a single 2716, an EPROM was used instead. Battery-backed memory for audits and adjustable game parameters is added via a 5101 256x4 bit CMOS memory at Z5. &amp;quot;Scratchpad&amp;quot; memory is contained in the three 6532 RIOTs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Control of peripheral devices (in this case lamps, displays, solenoids, switches and sound) is accomplished via three 6532 RIOTs (RAM-I/O-Timer) at U4, U5, and U6. Each RIOT in turn controls it&#039;s own &amp;quot;subsystem&amp;quot; to drive these devices.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Switch matrix (U4)&lt;br /&gt;
*Displays (U5)&lt;br /&gt;
*Solenoids (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
*Lamps (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four generations of the System 80 board.  All of the CPU boards can be easily identified by their revision numbers notated just below the operator adjustable dip switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====1st Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 CPU 1st ver.JPG|240px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generation CPU is used in the first 5 System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-001&lt;br /&gt;
*DET PB03-D102-001&lt;br /&gt;
*REV B&lt;br /&gt;
This board uses two masked PROM chips for the game code.  The chips are typically labeled with the three digit game model number followed by /1 or /2, designating the game PROM position.  An example of this naming convention is shown in the pic to the left.  652/1X and 652/2X are game PROM 1 and PROM 2 for Panthera.  The &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; in this case designates a code revision.  The masked ROMs at position U2 and U3 are not socketed on this board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With some simple modifications, this board is upward compatible to use a single 2716 EPROM placed in the PROM 1 socket of the board.  With the change of U2 and U3, this board can be used in System 80A games.  The board could potentially be used in a System 80B game with many modifications, and the addition of a daughter board, however, it is not recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlySystem80MPUFactoryCutJumper.jpg|240px|thumb|left|The corrected trace layout error in the 1St generation System 80 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This generation of board has a trace layout error that was corrected by a cut and jumper which moves the trace that terminates at Z5 (5101) pin 20 from Z36 pin 10 to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 cpu front scale.png|240px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation (Front)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 cpu back scale.png|240px|thumb|right|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation (Back)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;skeletal&amp;quot;, semi-populated board scans can be very useful when having to replace or follow traces on a CPU board.  Although the scans are of the 1st generation CPU board, most areas can be used for other generation CPU boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====2nd Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Placeholder for System 80 CPU Board - 2nd Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
The second generation CPU is used in some System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-??? (check boards for the suffix)&lt;br /&gt;
*DETAIL PB03-D107-001&lt;br /&gt;
This board uses a single 2716 EPROM chip for the game code located at the PROM 1 socket position.  The chips are typically labeled with the three digit game model number.  Occasionally, the chip&#039;s game number label will be followed by /1, /2, /3, or even /4. In this case, the number following the slash is the code revision number.  An example of this naming convention is 658 /2, which is a game PROM for James Bond - code revision 2.  The masked ROMs at position U2 and U3 are not socketed on this board either.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the change of U2 and U3, this board can be used in System 80A games.  The board could potentially be used in a System 80B game with many modifications, and the addition of a daughter board, however, it again is not recommended.  The second generation CPU is backward compatible, provided a doubled up, single game PROM is used at the PROM 1 position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====3rd Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 CPU 2nd gen.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 3rd Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
The third generation CPU is used in some System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-011&lt;br /&gt;
*DETAIL PB03-D107-003&lt;br /&gt;
This board is essentially the same as the second generation board, except an eyelet ground trace was placed just above Z33 on the board.  This ground trace was never used.  All information which applies to the second generation CPU board, applies to this board.  The third generation CPU is backward compatible, provided the same is done to it as the 2nd generation board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====4th Generation CPU Board (System 80A)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80A CPU.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80A CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The fourth generation CPU is used in all System 80A games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*D 20869&lt;br /&gt;
This board is the same as the third generation board, except the U2 and U3 masked ROM chips have different code, and are now socketed.  The PROM 2 socket is no longer populated on the board.  The fourth generation CPU is backward compatible, provided the System 80 ROM code is installed at U2 and U3.  If used on a game with the 1st generation CPU, the game code must be doubled up on a 2716 EPROM, and installed at the PROM 1 position.  This board is forward compatible with System 80B, provided all of the above outlined modifications are performed.  Out of all the System 80 CPU boards, this is the most compatible with System 80B, due to using the same base circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====5th Generation CPU Board (System 80B)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80B CPU.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B CPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The fifth generation CPU is used in all System 80B games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*D 20869&lt;br /&gt;
Even though the base circuit board is identical to the fourth generation CPU board, it&#039;s being named the fifth generation board, due to all of the major changes.  The U2 and U3 masked ROM and sockets have been replaced with a piggyback daughter board soldered via header pins mounted in the U3 position.  The daughter board uses a 2764 EPROM.  Most of the related display segment and digit chips are no longer populated.  This is due to the single display board handling these functions on its own board.  The missing chips once used for the displays are Z19, Z21, Z22, Z23, Z24, and Z25. Equally, jumpers have been placed where Z19 and Z21 once resided. The fifth generation CPU is backward compatible, after the daughter board has been removed, and the missing display chips populated.  Note that there technically are two different 80B CPU boards - MA-774 and MA-1133.  The only difference between these two boards is a cut trace on the component side and a long trace wire added on the solder side from the E3 jumper to pin 35 of TC1. This modification is done to increase the ROM size of PROM 2 from a 2716 to a 2732.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Any of the Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A / 80B CPU boards are compatible cross platform.  It&#039;s just matter of how much work must be done to modify each board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====U2/U3 ROM Part Numbers====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80ROMs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80 ROMs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All Gottlieb System 80 U2/U3 ROMs will be labeled as pictured at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U2 is labeled &amp;quot;R3273-12&amp;quot; on the center line. The top line is the part number, a 2332 ROM. The bottom line is the date code, in this case, the 15th week of 1981.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U3 is labeled &amp;quot;R3272-12&amp;quot; on the center line. The top line is the part number, a 2332 ROM. The bottom line is the date code, in this case, the 12th week of 1981.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80AROMs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80A ROMs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb System 80A ROMs may be labeled in a few different ways since Gottlieb used several manufacturers to provide the ROMs. A clear indication that the ROMs are for System 80A games is that somewhere in the labeling, &amp;quot;XO-326 U2&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;XO-327 U3&amp;quot; will be shown as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 drvr pw.png|160px|thumb|left|The System 80A / 80B Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Driver board is responsible for all controlled lamps, relays, and all solenoids in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via a simple interface between A1J4 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.  Although the driver board went through some minor changes over the years, the same board can be adapted for all of the System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; total of 52 &#039;&#039;&#039;lamp circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the interface provides &amp;quot;device select&amp;quot; signals for each of the 74175s (Quad-D Flip-Flops) on the driver board, and 4 &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; of data that is loaded (or &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot;) into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives an MPS-A13 or MPS-U45 transistor, (NDS-U45 transistors were used in place of MPS-U45s in some cases). Gottlieb® did not implement a &amp;quot;lamp matrix&amp;quot; as some other manufacturers did.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that there are some dedicated lamp transistors, which control specific game relays across the System 80 / 80A platforms.  Relays such as the game over, tilt, and coin lockout relays are controlled by Q1, Q2, and Q3 respectively.  The tilt and game over relays use the same designation for the System 80B platform, however, the use of a coin lockout relay was abandoned by this time. One neat feature of the driver board circuitry is that lamp &amp;quot;n&amp;quot; is driven by transistor Q&amp;quot;n+1&amp;quot;. i.e. L12 is driven by Q13.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_drvr_board_coin_ctrs.JPG|160px|thumb|left|Driver Board with Coin Counter Transistors Highlighted ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;solenoids circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the driver board uses signals directly from the CPU to enable transistors on the driver board which turn on up to 9 solenoids.  For solenoid control, the driver board uses MPS-U45, 2N3055, and 2N6043 transistors.  Starting and ending with the System 80 platform, (games from Spiderman to Haunted House), three transistors were reserved to drive optional mechanical coin counters. These mechanical coin counter solenoids and associated transistors are: solenoid 3 (Q54), 4 (Q55), and 7 (Q56). Starting with the System 80A platform, (Devil&#039;s Dare), these transistors were no longer reserved for coin counters, and were used for other functions. Equally, the 3 diodes associated with these 3 transistors were changed to 3 zero ohm jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;sound&#039;&#039;&#039; signals (S1, S2, S4, S8) also pass through the driver board at Z13, a 7404 Hex Inverter. See below for S16 and S32.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Repurposed Driver Board Circuits====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb under pf transistor.JPG‎|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Remote Transistor Mounted Under the Playfield]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since quite a few System 80 games employ more than 9 solenoids, and since the original driver board design will drive a maximum of 9 solenoids, Gottlieb® repurposed some lamp outputs to drive &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot; which drive additional solenoids.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb ma1011 trans board.JPG‎|160px|thumb|left| A Typical Transistor Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once playfields became littered with numerous &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot;, Gottlieb® opted to merge some of these transistors into a transistor driver board.  The transistor driver board started to appear on Gottlieb® games nearly midway through the System 80B platform, with the game Victory.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound S16 and S32 signals are also repurposed lamp outputs. For instance, Haunted House and Black Hole both repurpose L9 to S16. Robo-War repurposes lamp 4 to S16. Note that S16 is not consistently implemented across the System 80 family. Note also that references to the usage of S32 are difficult to find.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Lamp Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb aux lamp 5.JPG|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Aux. Lamp Driver Board Using MPS-U45 Transistors (Maximum Control of 10 Lamps]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb aux lamp MA866 2N6043.JPG|140px|thumb|right| A Typical Aux. Lamp Driver Board Using 2N6043 Transistors (Controls a Maximum of 20 Lamps]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Time Line, several System 80/80A/80B platform games use auxiliary lamp driver boards.  These boards are commonly referred to as &amp;quot;chaser boards&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;lamp chaser boards&amp;quot;.  The reason for either of these nicknames is because these boards are used to control lamps for effect.  They are either placed in the backbox or under the playfield.  With later System 80B games, they were located in the lower cabinet.  Location is typically dependent upon what lamps are being controlled.  The aux. lamp driver boards are not controlled by the CPU.  The only signals needed for an aux. lamp driver board to function is +5V and ground.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several different variants of auxiliary lamp driver boards used.  The earliest versions use MPS-U45 transistors to control a maximum of three lamps per transistor.  Both 15 and 30 lamp versions (5 or 10 transistors) of this board exist.  Some later boards use NDS-U45 transistors instead of MPS-U45 transistors.  It is assumed this is due to a the cost or lack of MPS-U45 transistors during production.  Either of these style of boards are interchangeable with one another.  Finally, there are some boards used in later games which use 2N6043 transistors.  These are designed to control #67 flashlamps, but this is not always the case.  This style board was used to control lamps also.  These boards are equally compatible with previous designed boards, when used as a complete, drop-in replacement.  However, MPS-U45, NDS-U45, and CEN-U45 transistors are not 1-to-1 compatible with 2N6043 transistors.  A viable replacement transistor for the 2N6043 is the TIP102.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main difference between any of the auxiliary lamp boards is the amount of transistors used to drive lamps, and the resistor (R13) used to control the rate at which the lamps flash or &amp;quot;chase&amp;quot;.  Boards using 2N6043 transistors have different resistor values for resistors R2-R11 than boards which use MPS-U45s or NDS-U45s.  A table of auxiliary lamp driver boards used on most games is shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Total Transistors&lt;br /&gt;
!Total Lamps Controlled&lt;br /&gt;
!R13 Resistor Value&lt;br /&gt;
!Controls&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Line|| ||10||?||820K Ohm||Chaser lamps behind nuclear symbol on backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Mars:God of War|| ||10||28||330K Ohm||Backglass perimeter chaser lamps||In backbox||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mars:God of War|| ||5||10 (LEDs)||330K Ohm||LEDs behind tube||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano|| ||10||20||560K Ohm||Upper backglass perimeter chaser lamps and volcano effect behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Black Hole|| ||10||28||270K Ohm||Backglass perimeter chaser lamps||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Haunted House||MA-234||10||21||270K Ohm||Behind backglass lightning effect lamps||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky|| ||10||19||560K Ohm||Behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spirit|| ||10||20||Varies||Behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tag Team Pinball|| ||10||20||820K Ohm||Multiball insert illumination||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock|| ||10||18||680K Ohm||Extra ball insert path||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock Encore|| ||10||18||680K Ohm||Extra ball insert path||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Raven|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Inserts leading to ramp||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hollywood Heat|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Ramp insert illumination||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| ||10||10 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||In top of backbox ||Under PF||Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| ||10||10 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Around playfield window ||Under PF||Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||8 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Flashers in topper ||Under PF||1 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||6 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Flashers in topper ||Under PF||2 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||10||680K Ohm||Inserts leading to ramp ||Under PF||3 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| ||10||5||680K Ohm||Behind $10,000,000 sign||Under PF||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| ||10||30||680K Ohm||Lamps around perimeter of topper||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| ||10||30||680K Ohm||In topper||Under PF||1 of 2; only if topper present?&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Special shot and shooter loop||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Arena||MA-936||None||10 (LEDs)||560K Ohm||LED strip under shooter lane wireform ||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| ||10||10 (#86 bulbs)||680K Ohm||Next to left ramp||Under PF||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| ||10||10 (#86 bulbs)||680K Ohm||Next to right ramp||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diamond Lady||MA-789||10||5||680K Ohm||Loop right of the ramp||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Inserts in lower portion of playfield ||Lower cabinet||(1 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| ||10||10 ||680K Ohm||Under playfield glass stop||Lower cabinet||(2 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| ||10||5||680K Ohm||Drop target illumination ||Lower cabinet||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| ||10||10 ||10M Ohm||Under playfield glass stop||Lower cabinet||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters||MA-789||10||12||680K Ohm||Playfield inserts ||Under PF||(1 of 2) Uses NSD-U45&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters||MA-866||10||20 (#67 flashers)||680K Ohm||Backbox lamp insert||In backbox||(2 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® uses different sound boards throughout the course of all System 80 platforms.  Several of the sound boards cross platforms too.  Out of all of the sound boards used, there is really only about three base units total with variations made to each one.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sounds Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound Board MA-55 (Sounds only)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first System 80 sound board is capable of sound only.  Based on the 6503 CPU architecture, this sound board is very similar to the System 1 Multi-Mode sound board.  However, there are a couple of differences between the two boards.  First, the +12VDC is no longer rectifed on the sound board.  The +12VDC power comes from the power supply.  Secondly, the +5VDC is no longer regulated on the sound board. The System 80 sound receives +5VDC from the power supply also.  Finally, the pin outs for the System 1 sound board and the System 80 sound board are completely different.  Even though either board will plug into either platform,  &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT PLUG A SYSTEM 1 SOUND BOARD INTO A SYSTEM 80 GAME AND VICE VERSA!!!&#039;&#039;&#039;  If this is done, bad stuff will happen.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, there are two chips on this style of board which are very difficult to source. This sound board uses a 6503 CPU and 6530 RIOT chip with special embedded code. 6530 chips marked with R3016-11 are for this System 80 sound board. 6530 chips marked with a R3014-12 or R3014-13 are for the earlier System 1 sound board. The two chips are not cross-compatible since they each have different code embedded in them for each game system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to being used in early System 80 games, this sounds-only board was also used in the export versions of Black Hole, Volcano, and Devil&#039;s Dare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is missing or cannot be repaired, there are daughter boards and aftermarket boards available.  A daughter board called the &amp;quot;[https://coinop.mally.eu/produkt.php?bestellnr=101647&amp;amp;details=1 MIOT adapter]&amp;quot; is a replacement for the 6530 chip for both System 1 and System 80 sounds boards, produced in Germany. Pascal Janin in France has made a replacement sound board for both the original 2nd generation sound boards, and combination System 1 2nd gen boards / System 80/80A sound boards. These boards can purchased directly from Pascal - [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx1.php 2nd gen sound] &amp;amp; [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php combination Sys1 / Sys80/80A sound] . Although Pascal does not have US distributors, [http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/flippp.html Big Daddy Enterprises], sometimes has these sound boards available too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Prototype Sounds Only Board as found in System 80 Hulk&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Images below capture a factory original Sounds only board prototype, complete with cuts (on component side) and jumpers (on solder side). Note the sound ROM marking of &amp;quot;500&amp;quot;, the game number assigned to the System 80 Hulk prototype (10 units built). Also note the &amp;quot;extra&amp;quot; 24 pin IC labeled 7681-5 in the center of the board. This IC is not present on production versions of this board. Just a guess, but since this board has a 6532 installed vs the production 6530 (40 pin IC), the 7681 appears to be ROM space to drive the sound program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=450px heights=250px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 Hulk Prototype Sound Only Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80HulkSoundsOnlyBoardFront.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Component side. Note &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot; at pin 21 of the center 24 pin IC.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80HulkSoundsOnlyBoardBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Solder side. Note factory green jumpers.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80&amp;amp;a s&amp;amp;s.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A B-20887-2 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Front.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A B-20887-3 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Mars God of War, the second System 80 sound board has the capability of speech.  Ironically, this board is commonly referred to as the &amp;quot;sound and speech board&amp;quot;, and was brought over from the Gottlieb® video game division at the time.  Fortunately, Gottlieb® chose the 6502 CPU architecture just like the CPU board.  There is a 6532 RIOT used also.  The downside to this board is the now rare LM379S amp and SC-01 phoneme speech chip are both difficult to acquire.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are approximately three renditions of this board.  Each will be marked with [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Different_Revisions_of_the_Sound_and_Speech_Boards B-20887-X].  The &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; denotes a suffix of 1, 2, or 3.  If the board has [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap wire wrap] or resistors added to the solder side of the board, do not assume that it is some sort of diabolical, weird hack.  These were recommended upgrades either done by the factory or out in the field.  With each higher revision number, less wire wrap and resistors are present on the solder side of the board.  However, each board revision typically has some degree of wire wrap added to it.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics corresponding to the -1 revision of the board can be found in the Mars, God of War and Volcano manuals. Schematics corresponding to the -3 revision of the board can be found in the Black Hole and Haunted House manuals.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A Sound Board w/ MA-483 Piggyback Board (replaces LM379S amp)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback.JPG|130px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® MA-483 Piggyback Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To reduce costs, Gottlieb® abandoned the speech option, and went a step backwards with a board generating sounds only.  In doing so, they used the same B-20887-3 base board as the most current sound and speech board.  The SC-01 speech chip socket in addition to the 74xx TTL chips, one of the LM741 op amps, and discrete components associated with the speech circuit were not installed on the board.  By the time this board was first used, the LM379S amp was too costly and difficult to source.  The solution was to add a single-side, piggyback board (as shown in the picture) with a TDA2002 amplifier and other necessary components.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this board is used as a replacement in a game which uses a sound &amp;amp; speech power supply, (Haunted House for example), modifications to the s&amp;amp;s power supply must be made.  This is due to the higher voltages necessary to operate the LM379S amp versus the TDA2002.  If this board is installed in a game where the sound and speech board power supply was not modified, the guarantee of destroying the TDA2002 amp is inevitable.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Only Board with Piggyback====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80a&amp;amp;b sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A / 80B Sound Board MA-490 w/ MA-488 Piggyback Board (Sounds only)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb piggyback sound factory trace wire.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80A / 80B Sound Board w/ Factory Trace Wire]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To reduce costs even more, Gottlieb® started using a modified sound only board, which was first used with Spiderman in 1980.  This &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; sound board was first used during the production of Amazon Hunt, and continued until Tag Team Pinball. The main modification of the board was the addition of a piggyback board.  The piggyback board was used to increase the size of the sound ROM by using a 2716 EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Two other noteworthy modifications are an added factory trace wire on the solder side of the board, and a cut trace between pin 8 of U7 (7404) and a header pin on the component side of the board. The added trace wire runs from pin 3 of U1 (6503 CPU) to pin 18 of U2 (piggyback header pins).  Both of these modifications should remain intact for the board to function properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is also worth mentioning that this is one of the few instances where Gottlieb® used a double-sided piggyback board.  The benefit of using a double-sided board is the decreased chance of cracked header pins, where the header pins attach to the underside of the piggyback board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (two button)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-766 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
And now for something completely different.  Well, not really.  The MA-766 sound board hit the scene with Rock, but a similar design was already used prior by the Gottlieb® video game division (Mylstar) when it existed.  It is based on the 6502 CPU architecture, but uses two 6502s instead of one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Two momentary push button switches are present on the board - SW1 and SW2.  Upon pushing SW1, the sound board should output a single blip (tone).  SW2 is used to manually reset the CPU on the sound board.  A bank of 4 dipswitches is located adjacent to SW1.  Dipswitches 1-3 should always be off, while dipswitch 4 should remain on for proper function.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (one button)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTBMA886SoundDepop.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886 Sound Board, only partially populated (found in Big House, Hollywood Heat, Bad Girls, etc.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 board is essentially the same as the previous sound board, except it uses 2 separate .156&amp;quot; header pin connections instead of edge connectors for inputs / outputs. Some other obvious changes are the omission of momentary test button SW1, the omission of the 4-bank dipswitch, the omission of YROM2 socket. In addition, a socket is sometimes populated at position S4 and neither AY-3-8913 orator chip is populated.  Momentary test button SW2 is still preset, and is still used to manually reset the board&#039;s processor.  The lack of YROM2 is because the MA-886 board allows for the use of larger EPROMs.  The S4 socket has been added on some boards, and is used to transfer data via a ribbon cable to an auxiliary sound board (MA-1033 or MA-1294). These boards also stuff R58 with a 10K 1/4W resistor and may have JP8 cut or not stuffed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Bone Busters Sound Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MA766-719A.jpg ‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886-719A Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886-719A sound board (also noted as MA-1299-719 in the manual) is an additional sound board found only in Bone Busters. It is based on the MA-886 sound board, but it is a stripped down version with much fewer populated components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Amazon Hunt II Sound Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-982 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-982 sound board is used only in the conversion game: Amazon II. It is based on the MA-886 sound board, but it is a stripped down version with much fewer populated components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Auxiliary Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
There are two versions of the auxiliary sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MA1033AuxSound.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1033 Auxiliary Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-1033 auxiliary sound board was used in System 80B games including: Bad Girls, Big House, and Hot Shots, as well as one System 3 game: Lights, Camera, Action.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys3 sound MA-1294.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1294 Auxiliary Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-1294 auxiliary sound board was only used in one System 80B game, Bone Busters, as well as System 3 games including: Hoops, Bell Ringer, Silver Slugger, Car Hop, Deadly Weapon, Title Fight, and Vegas.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Speakers===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Panthera Head Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Typical speaker located in the head of a System 80 game (Panthera)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games use a dual speaker system.  In most cases, (where there is a grill above the backglass), there is a 6-1/2&amp;quot;, 8 ohm, low wattage speaker in the lower cabinet, and a second one in the head, behind the grill in the backbox.  Some games, like Haunted House, have two speakers in the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB-80a-the-games-speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Single speaker from an 80A game (The Games)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;System 80A games may have two speakers or just one. Again, these are 6-1/2&amp;quot;, 4 ohm, low wattage speakers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Tag Team Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Single speaker from an early 80B game (Tag Team)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 80B games, Chicago Cubs, Tag Team, and Bounty Hunter, all use a single 6-1/2&amp;quot; 4 ohm speaker in the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Rock, 80Bs use a 6-1/4&amp;quot; in the cabinet and a small speaker on the left of the display panel.  The last few 80B games, where the speaker panel is located above the translite, use three speakers total (2 above the translite and 1 in the lower cabinet).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GottliebSixDigitDisplay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 6 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 6 digit display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 6 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80=====&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is step number 19 System 80 games. Each display, including the credit/match display participates in &amp;quot;walking&amp;quot; each digit (0 through 9 beginning with 0) across each display. The &amp;quot;walking&amp;quot; begins at the match side of the credit/match display, then moves to players 1 and 3, then to players 2 and 4. After a &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is walked through all displays, the cycle starts again with &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 7 digit display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A 7 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 7 digit display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80A 7 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80A=====&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is step number 19 System 80A games. Each display lights every position, and advances through all of the numbers starting with &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and ending with &amp;quot;9&amp;quot;.  Once &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is reached, the process starts over at &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; again.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayFront.jpg‎|260px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-644 Display Component Side]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayBack.jpg‎|260px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-644 Display Solder Side]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games introduced the 20 alphanumeric character dual line display module. These displays evolved over time. The one pictured here was used in games Chicago Cubs Triple Play until Excalibur. The two large ICs found on this board (Rockwell 10941 segment driver and Rockwell 10939 digit driver) are long obsolete and very hard to obtain. Other components on the board are readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board rectifies 32VAC via diodes CR1-CR4 to produce -45VDC and -15VDC for use by the segment and digit drivers. Should one or more of these diodes fail, the foil trace on the board sometimes acts like a fuse, and burns itself up. The picture at right shows a board that experienced this failure, along with a jumper to repair the damaged trace.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:GTB_80B_Large_AlphN_Display.JPG|260px|thumb|left|Gottlieb System 80B MA-999 Alpha-Numeric Display Board with header pin connections. (Bad Girls)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The last System 80B games (Hot Shots, Big House, Bad Girls, and Bone Busters) all used a larger alphanumeric vacuum fluorescent display assembly.  This type of display used two sets of .156&amp;quot; header pins instead of the more familiar edge connection.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80B=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb alphanum display test.gif|thumb|left|160px|Simulation of System 80B display test]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is test number 20 for System 80B.  All 40 of the alpha-numeric &amp;quot;digits&amp;quot; (both the top and bottom displays) will light starting with a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;, next a &amp;quot;+&amp;quot;, then an &amp;quot;X&amp;quot;, and finally a &amp;quot;,&amp;quot;.  In doing this, all possible segments of all the display digits are lit at one point during display test.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Reset Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 reset.JPG|thumb|left|160px|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80B MA-980 Reset Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Newer Reset Board.jpg|thumb|right|160px|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1143 Reset/Anti-Static Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Devil&#039;s Dare, the first System 80A game, the reset board became a staple of the Gottlieb® design to automatically reset the CPU board should the CPU lock up.  Apparently games locking up on location was an issue with System 80 games.  The reset board was created to resolve this issue, should the game lock up, and no one is present to manually reset the game by shutting it off and turning it back on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-980 reset board is a small footprint PCB with the board designation of A24, and is located adjacent to the TC1 connector of the CPU board.  The connection on the reset board is A24P1, while the connection for TC1 of the CPU board is A24P2.  As long as someone can turn the game off, should it lock up, there is no need to keep the reset board connected.  In most cases, the aged reset boards are more troublesome if allowed to remain connected.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTBResetBoardConnector.jpg|thumb|left|160px|Connection at TC1 to the reset board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB_RW_3K_Pullup.JPG|thumb|right|160px|A 3.0Kohm resistor, added between pins 7 and 11 of TC1.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Along with adding the reset board, Gottlieb® added a 3.0Kohm resistor across pins 7 and 11 of the reset board connection at MPU connector TC1. If not using the reset board, it&#039;s advised to add this resistor to the back of the board, as shown at right. This resistor pulls the R/W (read/write) line high when not pulled down by the 6502.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using connector A24-P2, do not add the 3.0Kohm resistor.  Doing so will change the effective resistance to 1.5Kohms (value of resistors in parallel).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reset board connector also has a 1N270 diode soldered to it. There is no need to add this diode to the MPU since it&#039;s part of the reset board function.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;More Regarding the 3Kohm Pullup Resistor&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Most MPU boards will work without the reset board but some MPU boards do refuse to work without the Read/Write pullup resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 3K resistor was added for two reasons:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#It provides a stable Read/Write signal at power-up. There is a tiny fraction of time at power up where data can be written into Z5 but due to gate Z36A, this data write is prevented. The resistor does provide a proper biasing to the Read/Write line at time of powerup.&lt;br /&gt;
#More importantly - A Rockwell 6502 has a minimum VOH of 2.4volts, a 4069 requires a minimum VIH of 4 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In other words:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The Read/Write output from U1 (pin 34) guarantees the output will be 2.4 volts or higher for a logic 1.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The 4069 located at Z36D (pin 9 input of Z36) requires the input to be 4 volts or higher for a logic 1.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The 3K pullup resistor pulls the Z36D input closer to the required voltage range.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do realize that even though this problem exists on all System 80/80A/80B boards but only a very small fraction of these Gottlieb boards exhibit any symptoms. The chances that you have one if these that exhibit symptoms is quite slim.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Initial Troubleshooting===&lt;br /&gt;
When attempting to troubleshoot a malfunctioning or non-booting game, there are a few initial steps to perform before diving into more serious troubleshooting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# If the MPU has damage from a leaking battery, it will need to be addressed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off all the edge connector contacts using a pink rubber eraser. This will remove any tarnish or grime that has built up over the years. Do not use sandpaper or fiberglass erasers on the contacts--they will only thin the material. There is a small risk that rubbing the eraser on the contacts will dislodge one of them, but this is very uncommon to see happen on system 80 boards.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check all the fuses using a multimeter in diode/continuity mode. Do not rely on a visual inspection. Sometimes a fuse will appear to be intact, but actually may be blown. Fuses are located near the transformer and on the underside of the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check voltages on the fuses near the transformer to make sure they are as expected.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the power supply voltages and make sure that they are as expected. 5v may need to be adjusted to 5.03v to ensure that the MPU recieves the necessary power it needs in order to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be sure to [[#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness|install the two jumper wires in the interconnect harness]] between the driver board and MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These steps may help address a number of common issues before proceeding to some of the more specific problems that can occur with system 80 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connectors, Connectors, Connectors===&lt;br /&gt;
Connectors, connectors, connectors!!!  Since the Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B boardset primarily relies on Molex connectors to pass data and voltages from board to board, the connectors should be addressed first.  Before even attempting to turn a Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B game on for the first time, worn or corroded edge connector contacts must be replaced.  Cleaning or burnishing connector contacts is not a viable option to ensure a game&#039;s reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Poor connector contacts are the number one reason why System 80/80A/80B games do not function properly.  Poor or missing connector contacts have a cascading effect too.  The end results of bad connector contacts can be, but are not limited to:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*voltages which mysteriously disappear and reappear&lt;br /&gt;
*increased resistance &lt;br /&gt;
*specific switches not functioning&lt;br /&gt;
*lamps locking on&lt;br /&gt;
*lamps not turning on&lt;br /&gt;
*displays not properly functioning&lt;br /&gt;
*coils not turning on&lt;br /&gt;
*coils locking on&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU boards not booting, booting sporadically, or randomly resetting&lt;br /&gt;
*driver boards not functioning or functioning sporadically&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, it is very important that the connector contacts are shiny, have proper spring tension, and are properly crimped for the over all reliability of the game.  Random, flaky issues which happen either sporadically or all the time are attributed to poor connector contacts in nearly every case.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=450px heights=100px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 Connector (J6), The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80ConnectorBadPins.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;An example of pins in desperate need of rehab.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80ConnectorGoodPins.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ahhh...Much nicer after repinning.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SandedGottliebEdgeConnector.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Sanded (or possibly bare from the factory) card edge contacts will corrode and degrade the electrical connection.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File: GottliebEdgeConnectorRehab.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The two connector pads on the left have been lightly scratched with the fiberglass pencil. Even the small bit of oxidation or corrosion shown on the remaining pins is enough to prevent a connection.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A common (poor) practice is to sand the card edge contacts to the bare copper as shown at left. While this may alleviate issues in the short term, longer term the copper will oxidize and cause more problems. All copper oxidizes. Copper is beautiful on building rooftops when first installed but oxidizes to a light green patina over time. Card edge contacts will do the same thing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the card edge contacts aren&#039;t bright and shiny, they can be cleaned off with a pink rubber eraser or lightly scratched with a fiberglass pencil. This will remove oxidation and grime without harming or thinning the finger contacts. If the contacts are corroded (due to battery damage) or have divots in them, lightly sand them, then re-tin them with a thin coat of solder. Either suck the excess solder off with a solder sucker or when heated, wipe the solder off with a rag. Avoid heating the card edge contacts too much as they will detach from the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing (Repinning) System 80 Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
Replacing connectors in a pinball machine somehow adopted the term repinning. Repinning a System 80 connector housing isn&#039;t too bad overall.  On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 (1 being the easiest to do) compared to all other makes and platforms made, System 80 connector replacement is about a 3.  One benefit regarding the System 80 IDC housings is that they are reusable.  Below are the steps to remove the connector from its housing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*First, grasp the housing in one hand.  Use a small &amp;quot;pocket&amp;quot; flat blade screwdriver. add pic later---&amp;gt; (http://www.absorbentprinting.com/tools-and-knives/screwdrivers/pocket-screwdrivers/level-rite-regular-blade-options).&lt;br /&gt;
*Next, push the connector&#039;s ear down, so the connector can be released.&lt;br /&gt;
*Finally, pull gently but firmly on the wire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes the connector comes out, and sometimes the wire pops out of the connector.  If the latter, use a small jeweler&#039;s screwdriver to gently pry the very end of the connector against the rectangular opening in the connector housing.  You&#039;re trying to get the IDC &amp;quot;ears&amp;quot; of the connector to clear the housing.  Sometimes the connector will easily come right out.  If it doesn&#039;t, use small needle nose pliers, and grab the &amp;quot;ear&amp;quot; of the connector, and pull it out.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Molex11-03-0016.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Molex Contact Extraction Tool, Molex part number 11-03-0016]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some system 80 connector housings are &amp;quot;double sided&amp;quot; edge connectors. All of the connector housings that are double sided are black from the factory (blue colored housings are typically Jamma connectors used as replacements, and do not apply to this section of this guide).  To remove pins from these connector housings, you need a pricey yet effective tool called a Molex contact extraction tool, (commonly referred to as a Molex extractor). The Molex part number for the extractor is 11-03-0016, and can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=11-03-0016&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= Great Plains Electronics] or other electronics vendors.  Slide the extractor behind the pin to release the &amp;quot;tang&amp;quot; that holds the pin in. Firmly grip the wire and pull the pin out of the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A YouTube video of the repinning process can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hErTlsFOMw4&amp;amp;t=5s here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate Method of Replacing (Repinning) System 80 Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateRepin1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The repinning on a single sided connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateRepin2.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The repinning on a double sided connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80 (and most System 1) connectors do not have the slot for depressing the pin ear. Most guides (as in the previous section) recommend purchasing a somewhat pricey tool to insert into the connector and depress the ear. This procedure is tedious and takes a bit of practice. If you have a decently equipped shop which includes a drill press, repinning these connectors using the following steps might be easier for you. Using this procedure, you can expect to replace each pin in less then a minute. I repinned an entire A1-J4 / A3-J1 harness in about 40 mins.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The procedure is to drill out the depression ear and pull out the pin:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Install a 1/16&amp;quot; bit in your drill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Set up a jig by clamping a straight edge to your drill press table. Set the jig so the hole will be 1/4&amp;quot; from the edge of the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
* Drill through the plastic housing on the back/bottom side.&lt;br /&gt;
* When you feel resistance from the metal pin, gently continue to drill until you feel and hear it destroy the pin ear.&lt;br /&gt;
* Repeat for the remaining pins.&lt;br /&gt;
* Gently pull wire by hand and it will come out very easily. Pliers shouldn&#039;t be required.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The newly installed pins ears will correctly lock in place regardless of the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The CPU / Driver Board Interconnect Harness===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 harn2.JPG|200px|thumb|left|The A1-J4 / A3-J1 Interconnect Harness]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 harn1.JPG|200px|thumb|right|The A1-J4 / A3-J1 Interconnect Harness]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are 33 discrete signals which pass from the CPU board to the driver board via this connection.  Two of the connectors pass ground and +5v logic to the driver board [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness (two more can be added)].  The remaining signals are for lamp, solenoid, relay and sound control.  It is &#039;&#039;&#039;extremely important&#039;&#039;&#039; to have solid connectors installed in the CPU / driver board interconnect harness.  Without decent connections, lamps, coils, relays, and sound can either lock on or not turn on at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Adding Ground and 5V Connections to Interconnect Harness====&lt;br /&gt;
Yet one more power/ground update to make is to &amp;quot;double up&amp;quot; the 5VDC and ground connections between the MPU and the driver board. The OEM harness contains only one connection between the MPU and driver board for 5VDC and one connection for logic ground. This is an easy upgrade since spare connection positions are available in the connectors that lead to the correct edge contacts on each board.  Approximately 8 inches of wire and four bifurcated crimp on pins (bifurcated style, Molex 4366 series, Product Family KK, product ID: 08-03-0304 at [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=4366&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= Great Plains Electronics]) are needed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Crimp a pin to each end of each wire. The connectors at each end should face opposite directions. Doing this will avoid twisting the wire as you insert the pins into the connector housing. In the picture below, the red wire carries 5VDC, blue wire carries logic ground. These colors were chosen for illustrative purposes only. Any color wire will do, of course.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=170px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;MPU-to-Driver Board Harness Upgrade&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessUpgradeWires.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pins crimped to extra wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessSlots.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Spare pin positions in harness.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessUpgraded.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5VDC and ground upgraded.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Ground updates===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80/80A/80B Boards ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the Gottlieb® System 80 board set was designed, for whatever reason, the designers did not physically attach each board to a common ground plane via a conductive back panel, standoffs and screws as Bally and Williams did. Instead, Gottlieb® relied on connectors and wires between each board to create a common ground. A poor connection due to dirty/damaged/fatigued connector pins will sever the ground between system components resulting in all sorts of odd behavior.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this problem, it is important to examine each connector to ensure each pin is clean, and making solid contact with the card edge conductor. The ultimate (and recommended) insurance is to add an additional wire from each board&#039;s ground to a common ground point. Historically, the recommended location to join separate board grounds is at the power supply. That ground is then connected to the ground strip or transformer assembly in the cabinet bottom.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System80 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Recommended Board Ground Wire Locations&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80_PSU_Ground.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80/80A Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80bPowerSupplyGroundMod.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B 5V Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80BAuxiliaryPowerSupplyCardEdge.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80a cpu brd grd.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;MPU Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80ab drvr brd grd.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Driver Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80 sound added ground.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80 Sound Only Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sound Speech ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound and Speech Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sound Speech power sup ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound and Speech Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb piggyback sound ground add.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80A/80B Sound Only Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GottliebSoundBoardGroundMod.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Sound Board (edge connector)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80SoundBoardHeaderGrounds.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Sound Board (header connector)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Aux Board Ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chaser Lamp Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another design decision was to provide separate ground wires for groups of lamps and coils on the driver board. There are several variations used to tie the driver board lamp and solenoid discrete ground wires to the ground plane.  The most common method Gottlieb® used was passing the ground wires through a large, inline Molex connector. If a group of lamps and/or coils are not working, there is a significant probability that a ground is missing.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80GroundsTiedTogether.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Tying all board ground together at a single point, on a System 80 or 80A game.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80B_BoardGrounds_Added.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Using the 5VDC power supply heatsink as a tie point to add ground mods to a &amp;quot;non-foil&amp;quot; back panel game.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once all of the board grounds have been installed, tie them all together to a single point, as shown at left on a Gottlieb System 80 or 80A game. Here, one of the screws on the power supply is a handy attach point. Note that the coating on the cold plate at that screw point should be sanded bare, as discussed in step 9 of this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Updates_and_Repairs_for_the_System_80.2F80A_Power_Supply_Board procedure].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For 80B games with &amp;quot;non-foil&amp;quot; back panels, one method is to use the +5V power supply heatsink as a tie point. Run a lead from the heatsink to the lower right bolt in the backbox. This bolt will have the factory ground straps secured to it. Make sure to sand or use a Dremel to remove the anodized coating from the heatsink where the grounds will be connected. This implementation eases subsequent board removal as fewer &amp;quot;eyelets&amp;quot; are involved to remove a specific board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The other method, and a good alternative for 80B games with the &amp;quot;foil&amp;quot; back panel where the heat sink is isolated from the back panel with nylon dual sided washers, is to use wires long enough to tie each board to the lower right bolt in the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80GroundTiedToCabinetGround.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Connecting all the grounds to cabinet ground (green/yellow wire).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the grounds all tied together at the power supply, tie that ground to the ground strip in the cabinet bottom. In the picture at left, the wire joined to all other grounds at the power supply is tied to a cabinet ground point (in this case the speaker housing). Cabinet ground points generally have a green wire with yellow tracer attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80GroundStrap.jpg|left|thumb|200px|System 80 Cabinet Bottom Ground Strip]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The bottom board ground strap is where all grounds should come together for System 80 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Grounds Improvements for System 80A at Transformer Panel=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80A Grounds Cabinet Bottom Ground Strip]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Grounds Alien Star After.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Alien Star)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® did secure the grounds correctly on one particular game.  As seen in the adjacent pic, the grounds on Alien Star were attached discretely on the transformer panel.  These ground lines did not pass through a Molex connector like games before or games after.  Why Gottlieb® did not continue this practice is unknown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80B====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80A / 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;The Games&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Bounty Hunter&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
After Alien Star, Gottlieb® either soldered wire leads directly to the male spade connector board on the transformer panel (games like Chicago Cubs), or used female spade connectors (games like The Games, Touchdown, and Ice Fever), and used square, inline 9-pin Molex connectors to connect to the wiring harness. These connections, if the pins in the connectors are in good shape, are solid and do not require upgrade or modification.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-touchdown-transformer-panel.jpg|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Touchdown)&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Grounds Cubs.jpg|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Chicago Cubs Triple Play)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;Tag Team Pinball&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Spring Break&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Ground connections used on System 80B games from Rock to Spring Break are the most unreliable style of ground connections Gottlieb® ever used.  These connections consist of two (sometimes three) small boards each with two gangs of 9-pin male connections. The boards are fastened to the left side of the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis.  One problem with this is that the 9-pin female connection becomes loose, and in turn, ground connections become intermittent.  Another problem is the male pins on the boards suffer from cracked solder connections.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One common symptom of poor ground connections is multiple solenoids not functioning.  If removing the 9-pin Molex plug from the ground board, rotating it 90 degrees, and reconnecting it causes non-working solenoids to function, the ground connections are bad. Whether or not this test proves that the ground connections are bad, it is highly recommended to improve the ground connections for future reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purpose of these changes is to remove one potentially failed connection out of the equation.  The grounds will then be secured directly to the transformer chassis via solderless eyelet crimp connectors.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System3 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].  Below are the steps to properly upgrade the grounds.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Gottlieb® System 80B Ground Upgrades (Tag Team Pinball to Spring Break)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb_sys80b_trans_ground_01.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The stock ground connections plugged into the ground connection boards on the left side of the transformer panel.  This pic is a view from the left side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 02.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Remove all connections from the transformer panel.  Then, unscrew the four 5/16&amp;quot; hex head screws which secure the transformer panel from the bottom of the cabinet.  Turn the transformer panel on its side.  This will allow better access to secure the ring terminals to the side of the chassis.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 03.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut all of the ground wires as close as possible to the 9-pin connection.  Remove the two boards with the 9-pin male wafer connections.  As can be seen in the pic, Gottlieb® did actually secure the discrete transformer panel grounds to the panel&#039;s chassis with a single, soldered eyelet connector.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 04.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All the ground wires are to have their insulation stripped back longer than usual - approximately 3/4&amp;quot;.  Solderless ring terminals are crimped onto the ground wires.  The connections used in this particular application are Motormite #85443.  Motormite brand does not have to be used.  This particular brand and part number are mentioned due to the difficulty in finding the correct connectors to use. Most common ring terminals have a #10 or larger screw eyelet, which will not work effectively, if the eyelets are fastened to the side of the transformer panel chassis.  The ring terminals shown here are made for #12-#10 gauge wire with an eyelet for a #8 screw.  &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 02.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The ground Molex plugs and connection boards which were formerly fastened to the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis. The four ground connector plugs (some games only use three total) were cut off from the incoming ground wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 06.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Keep wires which were common to one connector together (driver board ground wires, playfield ground wires, and backbox ground wires).  In doing this, future disassembly will be possible, should any of the individual wiring harnesses need attention or the playfield removed from the game.  The ground wires are then twisted together and crimped.  From experience, a maximum of 4 larger gauge wires can be crimped in one connection.  Lighter gauge wires can be paired with or without heavier gauge wires.  When doing this, the maximum effective grouping of wires increases slightly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 01.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The screws which were removed from the ground bus board should be reused to secure the eyelets to the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 03.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The transformer is fastened to the bottom of the cabinet with the ground upgrades in place.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground last.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pay close attention when securing the transformer panel to the cabinet.  All four mounting screws typically have flat ground straps with an eyelet.  These eyelet connections *must* be secured to the transformer panel.  Otherwise, the earth grounds will not all be tied together anymore.  Two of these ground connections are circled in the pic.  There are two more located on the backside of the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although somewhat equally difficult to locate, an alternate to the Motormite # 85443 connectors are Tyco / AMP 408-2049-4 connectors. Again, any brand can be used, but make certain the eyelet hole is for a #8 screw (not a #10 or larger), and the crimp connector can accommodate #10 / #12 gauge wires (typically yellow insulation on crimp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;Arena&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Bone Busters&amp;quot; =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ground connections used on System 80B games from Arena to Bone Busters are the not as bad as the previous design, however, they are still unreliable at times.  These connections consist of two small boards with three 10-pin .156&amp;quot; inline male header connections. The boards are fastened to the left side (or back side on newer games like Hot Shots) of the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis.  One problem with this is that the header pins get cracked solder joints, and in turn, ground connections become intermittent. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One common symptom of poor ground connections is multiple solenoids not functioning.  If removing the 10-pin Molex plug from the ground board, and reconnecting it at a different header causes non-working solenoids to function, the ground connections are bad. Whether or not this test proves that the ground connections are bad, it is highly recommended to improve the ground connections for future reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purpose of these changes is to remove one potentially failed connection out of the equation.  The grounds will then be secured directly to the transformer chassis via solderless eyelet crimp connectors.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the previous section, these ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System3 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].  Below are the steps to properly upgrade the grounds.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Gottlieb® System 80B Ground Upgrades (Arena to Bone Busters)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 01.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The stock ground connections plugged into the ground connection boards on the left side of the transformer panel.  This pic is a view from the left side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 02.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Remove all connections from the transformer panel.  Then, unscrew the four 5/16&amp;quot; hex head screws which secure the transformer panel from the bottom of the cabinet.  Turn the transformer panel on its side.  This will allow better access to secure the ring terminals to the side of the chassis.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 03.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut all of the ground wires as close as possible to the 10-pin housing.  Remove the two boards with the three .156&amp;quot; 10-pin male header connections.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 04.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All of the ground wires are to have their insulation stripped back longer than usual - approximately 3/4&amp;quot;.  Solderless ring terminals are crimped onto the ground wires.  The connections used in this particular application are Motormite #85443.  Motormite brand does not have to be used.  This particular brand and part number are mentioned due to the difficulty in finding the correct connectors to use. Most common ring terminals have a #10 or larger screw eyelet, which will not work effectively, if the eyelets are fastened to the side of the transformer panel chassis.  The ring terminals shown here are made for #12-#10 gauge wire with an eyelet for a #8 screw.  &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 05.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The ground Molex plugs and connection boards which were formerly fastened to the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis. The five ground connector plugs were cut off from the incoming ground wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 06.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Keep wires which were common to one connector together (driver board ground wires, playfield ground wires, and backbox ground wires).  In doing this, future disassembly will be possible, should any of the individual wiring harnesses need attention or the playfield removed from the game.  The ground wires are then twisted together and crimped.  From experience, a maximum of 4 larger gauge wires can be crimped in one connection.  Lighter gauge wires can be paired with or without heavier gauge wires.  When doing this, the maximum effective grouping of wires increases slightly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 07.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The screws which were removed from the ground bus board should be reused to secure the eyelets to the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 08.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The transformer is fastened to the bottom of the cabinet with the ground upgrades in place.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 09.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pay close attention when securing the transformer panel to the cabinet.  The four mounting screws may have flat ground straps with an eyelet.  These eyelet connections *must* be secured to the transformer panel.  Otherwise, the earth grounds will not all be tied together anymore.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although somewhat equally difficult to locate, an alternate to the Motormite # 85443 connectors are Tyco / AMP 408-2049-4 connectors. Again, any brand can be used, but make certain the eyelet hole is for a #8 screw (not a #10 or larger), and the crimp connector can accommodate #10 / #12 gauge wires (typically yellow insulation on crimp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing the Orange Filtering Capacitor====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AgedOrangeCap.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn out original 6800uf/25V Gottlieb® filter capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If your System 80 or early System 80A game still has the original, orange 12VDC filtering capacitor in the cabinet bottom, it should be replaced. It&#039;s 30+ years old, has served the game well for a long time, and deserves a rest. Replace it with a new capacitor, valued from 6800uf to 12,000uf and at least 25V. Don&#039;t forget to acquire the right sized bracket to secure the cap to the bottom board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A very nice replacement for this capacitor, specified at 12,000uf, can be found [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-67.asp here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This capacitor filters the rectified 12VDC which is supplied to the power supply board for regulation down to 5VDC which is used by the every board in the game, including the MPU. Solid 5VDC power is critical for the game to operate properly. Hence the need for a properly working cap.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sporadic / Inconsistent / Missing Voltages====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 PS Cold Joints.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This header pin was removed from the board by wiggling it loose!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One problem with the System 80 power supply sporadic, inconsistent, or missing voltages.  The game may be fine one minute, while the next minute, it loses voltage(s) completely.  One of the main culprits for this is cracked header joints.  Between vibration and the heat dissipated by the heat sink, header joints have a fairly high failure rate on System 80 power supplies.  The fix is to disassemble the power supply (as seen in the next section), and replace the stock round header pins with square headers. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Updates and Repairs for the System 80/80A Power Supply Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80PSBurnedCR7.jpg|200px|thumb|right|If CR7 on the Gottlieb power supply looks like this, the board should be rehabbed immediately.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Power Supply board is a pretty tough bugger. Still, after years of steady operation, they do fail, and they require refurbishment / rebuild.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The test point values are silk screened on the System 80 power supply board. They are +5VDC, +8VDC, +42VDC, and +60VDC. Ground, or &amp;quot;common&amp;quot; is also labeled.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Given that the parts to refurbish the power supply are cheap and readily available, and that taking the power supply apart is a bit of a pain, a good strategy is to replace all failure prone parts, whether the parts have failed or not, to avoid disassembling the power supply more than once.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Mandatory parts list:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#.156 male header pins without friction lock, 9-pin, 7-pin, 6-pin, or break to size.&lt;br /&gt;
#500 ohm resistor cermet trimmer potentiometer. A quality sealed one like the one pictured is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
#3 inches of 18 gauge wire&lt;br /&gt;
#680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor (470, 510, 560, or 620 works also) replacement for R10, originally a 30 ohm 2W resistor and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;must be replaced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; if CR7 is replaced with a 1N4738 (below)&lt;br /&gt;
#1N4738 8.2V 1 watt zener diode (CR7, originally a 1N3445 8.2V 2W zener)&lt;br /&gt;
#12K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor (R3)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Optional parts list:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#1N4746 18V 1 watt zener diode (CR6, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#47uf, 100V axial capacitor (C2, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#LM723 voltage regulator and 14-pin socket (IC1, optional if the 5V section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#2N6057, 2N6059, or 2N6284 Darlington transistor (Q3, optional if the 5V section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#heat sink compound (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-3 mica insulator or heat sink gasket (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-3 transistor spacer (optional as required) Keystone 4616 or Mouser Electronics 534-4616&lt;br /&gt;
#2N5550 or 2N5551 transistor (Q2, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#470uf/100V axial capacitor (C1, optional if the 42v/60v section is operational, this cap is often the cause of the 1/4A HV fuse blowing)&lt;br /&gt;
#TIP31C TO-220 NPN transistor (Q1, optional if the 42v/60v section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 mica insulator (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 Passive Heatsink - Aavid Thermalloy 563002B00000G (only necessary if the existing heatsink is damaged or missing the PCB mounting tabs)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 Nylon Bushing Insulator (only necessary if missing or damaged)&lt;br /&gt;
#Green LEDs (optional...use to identify that the board has been rebuilt)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the 4 screws that fasten the PCB to the cold plate (heat sink).&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the 2 screws that fasten the back mounted transistor Q3 to the PCB and cold plate.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a solder removal tool to remove the solder from the legs of Q3 that extend through the PCB. This is the toughest part of the job. If the board had been really hacked, two irons and a friend may be needed to accomplish this.&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the cold plate and Q3 have been removed, set those parts to the side.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace parts on the PCB as recommended and advised by the particular failure.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the PCB, solder a 3&amp;quot; wire from the ground trace to the screw mount, as shown in the picture below.&lt;br /&gt;
#When replacing the original round header pins with new square header pins, the through holes may require slight enlargement using a pick as shown in the picture below. Alternatively, the holes can be drilled with a small bit from the solder side of the board. Pressing the pins into the through holes without enlarging them might cause the solder pad to pop off the board. Key pins must be removed prior to installation as the PCB has no holes at the key pin position.&lt;br /&gt;
#Recheck all of the work performed.&lt;br /&gt;
#Sand the black insulating coating from the top/right screw hole on the front of the cold plate, as shown in the picture below. The insulating coating is very tough. A drum sander attachment on a Dremel works very well for this.  To ensure enough has been sanded, use a meter to &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between screw holes. The screw hole will be used later to tie the ground from each PCB together.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Q3 (note that it will only install one way) onto the cold plate using the transistor spacer, mica insulator, and heat sink compound.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mate the two halves of the power supply together and reinstall the two screws which secure Q3.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the leads of Q3 to it&#039;s through-holes.&lt;br /&gt;
#To ensure continuity at each leg&#039;s solder joint, &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection between the left leg of Q3 and the top leg of R9.&lt;br /&gt;
#Also &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection between the right leg of Q3 and the bottom leg of R11.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the remaining 4 screws around the perimeter of the power supply board. &lt;br /&gt;
#Lastly, ensure there is NO continuity between Q3 and the cold plate, as shown in the picture below. This is an essential step to ensure proper operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=170px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;System 80/80A Power Supply Repair&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Parts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsRemoved.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front Side, Parts Removed and Board Cleaned Up&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsRemovedBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Back Side, Parts Removed&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:EnlargingHoles.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Enlarging Header Pin Holes&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsReplaced.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Replaced, Front Side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsReplacedBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Replaced and Ground Updated, Back Side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:R10ThermalStrainRelief.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Strain Relief for R10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80PSAllDone.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All Done&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Transistor-to-ColdPlateContinuityTest.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ensuring no continuity between Q3 and the cold plate&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once fully assembled, reinstall the power supply into the game. Connect ONLY J1 (the lower 9-pin connector) at this time. Power the game on, looking for the two LEDs to light. If they do not light, there will be rework to perform. Assuming that they do light, test each of the voltages that the power supply creates to ensure the correct power is being generated/regulated. Since the power is not &amp;quot;under load&amp;quot;, each of the voltages may read 10% or so high. While measuring the 5V test point, adjust the 5V trim pot to about 5.1VDC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it! Done.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: once the other boards are connected to the power supply, the 5V may sag some. Measure the 5V across the electrolytic cap just to the right of the MPU power connector. Using the 5V trim pot, adjust the 5V power to between 5.0 and 5.1VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Repairs for the System 80B Power Supply Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B +5 VDC Power Supply. The adjustment POT is at the top of the PCB.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Step one to improving power supply reliability is to replace the original 500 ohm 1 watt adjustment pot.  This procedure can be done easily without removing the large heat sink.  A replacement sealed pot is recommended, but not completely necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, remove all the old solder from the all of the .156&amp;quot; header pins, and reflow new solder onto the joints. The top header pins (J2) supply +5VDC to the majority of the associated circuit boards in the back box.  Provided that the power supply is delivering acceptable voltages in the +5VDC range, these two relatively simple repairs are the only things needed for this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
However, if you&#039;ve adjusted the pot as much as possible in the appropriate direction, and the power supply is still delivering voltages higher or lower than around +5VDC, it&#039;s probably time to look at replacing the LM338K voltage regulator.  While not a frequent occurrence, the voltage regulator will sometimes fail. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the voltages measured are less than 1VDC, the grounds for the power supply (located at the transformer panel) will more than likely need attention.  Once the grounds at the transformer panel are better secured, recheck the voltage at the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: When measuring the +5VDC provided by the power supply, first disconnect J2 on the power supply. Measure power at the J2 male headers first. Once within an acceptable range, turn power off and reconnect J2. Measure power across C1, the 100uf/10V capacitor that is next to J1 (power connector) on the MPU. The MPU may drag the +5VDC supply down a bit. If you find this to be the case, adjust the trim pot on the power supply until a steady +5VDC is seen at the MPU. Poor connections between the +5VDC power supply and the MPU board may also reduce the voltage measured at the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Optional Bling...Adding Power Indicating LED&#039;s to Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
=====CPU Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
How to add a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator for the Gottlieb System 80 Generation 1 CPU board (the D102 board). This will light up when + 5 volts are present on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes spaced about 3mm apart in the spot indicated just below power connector J1. This area has no traces to interfere with drilling.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install LED into board with flat side facing toward the power connector J1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the flat side&#039;s lead to the negative (ground) point shown in the picture and solder it.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will connect to one side of the 330 ohm resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the positive trace shown in the picture. You&#039;re done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is powered on, this LED will indicate that the CPU board is receiving +5 volts from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDholesfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDholesrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drilled on rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Circled areas are where to drill the two holes for the LED. Any color of LED can be used, but red or green are preferred.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDwiring.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring on solder side of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDfront.JPG|200px|thumb|right|LED installed on board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED. Note the location of the flat side of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation of LED]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed installation with LED lit up indicating the +5 volts is present on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator to the System 80 Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohm quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; holes spaced about 3mm apart in the board at the location shown in the pictures to the left of the electrolytic capacitor near chip Z1. There should be no traces at that area.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the red LED with the flat side facing the trace going to the negative side of the electrolytic capacitor. Bend the LED&#039;s flat side lead down to that trace and scrape away some of the green paint at the point you will be soldering it. Now solder that lead to the trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder one end of the 330 ohm resistor to the other lead of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will now get soldered to the trace that goes to the positive side of the electrolytic capacitor. Again, be sure to scrape some of the green paint off of the trace where the resistor lead will be soldered. You are done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is on, the LED will be lit indicating that the driver board is receiving +5 volts from the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LED_holesfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDholesrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes on the rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Views of the holes drilled for the LED looking from the front and rear of the System 80 driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80LEDrear.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring of the LED and resistor]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDflat.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Finished installation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED. Notice the location of the flat side of the LED. Any color of LED can be used, but red or green is prefered.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80LEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation with LED lit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed installation showing the LED lit up indicating +5v power is present on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pop Bumper Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
How to add a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator for the Gottlieb System 80 Pop Bumper Driver Board. This will light up when + 5 volts are present on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#From the solder side, mark and drill four 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes spaced as shown in the spot indicated. &lt;br /&gt;
#Install LED into board with flat side facing toward the power connector J1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the flat side&#039;s lead to the negative (ground) point shown in the picture and solder it.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will connect to one side of the 330 ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the positive trace shown in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
#You&#039;re done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is powered on, this LED will indicate that the CPU board is receiving +5 volts from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-supplies.jpg|Supplies needed.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-1.jpg|Mark holes on solder side as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-2.jpg|Drill holes.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-3.jpg|Stuff parts shown. Note the polarity of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-4.jpg|Bend component legs as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-5.jpg|Solder all 3 connections as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat for each Pop Bumper Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; LED indicator for the MA-234 auxiliary lamp driver board used in Black Hole and Haunted House.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red or green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes about 3mm apart in the locations indicated in the pictures.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mount LED with the flat side toward the edge of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The lead from the LED&#039;s flat side will be soldered to pin 2 (ground) of connector A11P1. Be sure to slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over this lead so it does not accidently short to the other connector pins.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of the 330 ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 4 (+5 volts) of connector A11P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Whenever the machine is on, the LED should be lit, indicating the auxiliary lamp driver board is receiving power. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDfrontholes.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDrearholes.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes on rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
View of the holes drilled for the LED as viewed from the front and rear of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:ALDLEDfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED installed on board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Resistor and LED wiring]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED on the rear of the board. Notice the location of the flat side of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:ALDLEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED is lit up]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Finished installation with LED lit up indicating presence of +5 volts power on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Sound/Speech Power Supply Board LED&#039;s=====&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound/Speech power supply board will get a total of four LED&#039;s! These are to indicate the presence of -12 volts, +12 volts, and +30 volts going out to the actual sound/speech board and also to indicate +24 volts coming in to the power supply board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*4 Red or green LED&#039;s&lt;br /&gt;
*2 Resistors, 1 k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 2.2k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 3.0 k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a total of eight 1/16&amp;quot; holes at the points shown in the pictures near connector A7P1. Lead spacing per LED is about 3mm. Be sure the LED&#039;s are not too close to each other to interfere with sitting flat against the board. The +12 and +30 volt LED&#039;s will mount with the flat side facing diagonally (7 o&#039;clock) toward the lower left board mounting hole.&lt;br /&gt;
#The -12 volt LED will have the lead of the round side (anode) soldered to the heavy ground trace of the board. You&#039;ll need to scrape some of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of this LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to the junction point of resistor R2 and the anode of zener diode CR2.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +24 volt LED will have the lead from the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the heavy ground trace on the board. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 2.2k resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 6 (+24 volts). Again, you&#039;ll need to scrape some of the green paint from the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +12 volt LED will have the lead from the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the heavy ground trace. You will need to scrape some of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 1 (+12 volts). You will need to scrape some of the green paint off of the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +30 volt LED will have the lead of the flat side (cathode) soldered to the heavy ground trace. You will need to scrape off some of the green paint from the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 3 k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 2 (+30 volts). You will need to scrape some of the green paint from the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#These LED&#039;s above are all optional. The board never originally came with anything to indicate presence of voltages. If you only want to install one, that&#039;s fine. I chose to install all four so I can see at a glance that all four voltages are present. You don&#039;t have to install all four if you don&#039;t want to.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture of the finished front of the board the LED&#039;s from top to bottom are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*-12v&lt;br /&gt;
*+24v&lt;br /&gt;
*+12v&lt;br /&gt;
*+30v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture of the wiring on the back (foil) side of the board, the resistors top to bottom are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1K&lt;br /&gt;
*2.2K&lt;br /&gt;
*1K&lt;br /&gt;
*3K &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDfrontholes.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes for the LED&#039;s on the front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDrearholes.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes for the LED&#039;s on the rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Views of the drilled holes for the LED&#039;s looking from the front and rear of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLEDlower.JPG|200px|thumb|left|+12 and +30 LED&#039;s installed on front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDupper.JPG|200px|thumb|right|-12 and +24 LED&#039;s installed on front]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All four LED&#039;s installed on the front of the board. Notice the location of the flat sides of all the LED&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLED_wiring.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring of the resistors on the rear of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDfinished.JPG|200px|thumb|right|All four LED&#039;s installed on front of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistors and LED&#039;s on the rear of the board. All four LED&#039;s installed on front of board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished and all LED&#039;s lit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All four LED&#039;s installed and lit up indicating the presence of the four different voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====System 80/80A Power Supply Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 and System 80A power supply board already has LED&#039;s installed to indicate the +5 volts and +12 volts. This project will add an LED to indicate the presence of the +60 volts which is used to operate the score displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 LED, any color&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 10k, 2 watts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a total of four 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes at the points indicated between the foil traces in the pictures. Try to keep the holes in a straight line.The LED installs in the top two holes and with the flat (cathode) side facing downward toward the bottom end of the board. The resistor will install in the other remaining two holes which are the also the farthest spaced. Be sure to scrape the paint off of the foil traces at the points shown in the pictures.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_holes_front.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled viewed from front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_holes_rear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drilled as viewed from rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Wiring it all up:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flat (cathode) side of the LED will be soldered to the top end of the 10k 2 watt resistor. Be sure to keep all component leads pressed down as close to the foil traces as possible to prevent shorting to the metal frame when the board is re-assembled to the metal frame. There is very little clearance between the board and the metal frame when everything is re-assembled. The lower end of the resistor will be soldered to the foil trace that goes to connector J3, pins 4 and 5 (ground). The round (anode) side of the LED will be soldered to the foil trace that goes to connector J3 pin 1 (the +60 volts). Put a short piece of heat shrink tubing or sleeving over that lead to prevent it from shorting to the trace it crosses over. Now carefully bend that lead of the LED down onto the correct foil trace as shown in the pictures and solder it. Be sure to label the new LED on the parts side of the board as &amp;quot;+60V&amp;quot;. This completes the wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_parts.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Resistor and LED mounted on board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_soldered.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Parts soldered to foil traces]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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The new LED should be lit at all times the machine is turned on. It indicates that +60 volts DC is present to operate the score displays. The other display voltage, +42 volts, is derived from the +60 volts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_finished.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation with +60v marking]]&lt;br /&gt;
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=====System 80 First Generation &amp;quot;Sounds Only&amp;quot; Sound Board LED&#039;s=====&lt;br /&gt;
This board was used in early System 80 games such as Panthera. It operates on three power sources, -12 volts, +12 volts, and +5 volts. The +12 volts is obtained from the bottom panel in the machine. The +5 volts is obtained from the game&#039;s power supply board. The -12 volts is generated on this sounds only board by receiving ac power input on J1 pins 3 and 4. You can measure the -12 volts by connecting your volt meter across zener diode CR5 (1N4742A).&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;MATERIALS NEEDED&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*2 LED&#039;s, any color&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 1k @ 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohm @ 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Short piece of small diameter heat shrink tubing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two pairs of holes 1/16&amp;quot; diameter and about 3mm apart at the locations as shown in the pictures. Be sure not to drill through any foil traces.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +12 volt LED will have the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the ground trace coming from pin 6 of connector J1. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of green paint off of the trace first in order to solder it. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k @ 1/4 watt resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 1 of connector J1 (the +12 volt source). Be sure to slide a short piece of heat shrink tubing over this end of the resistor before soldering since this lead will pass over a couple of traces. This will prevent the resistor lead from shorting to those traces and causing damage.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +5 volt LED will have the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the ground trace coming from pin 6 of connector J1. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of the green paint off of the trace first in order to solder it. The other end of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 330 ohm @ 1/4 watt resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 5 of connector J1 (the +5 volt source).&lt;br /&gt;
#When finished, be sure to note that the flat sides of both LED&#039;s will be facing each other on the front side of the board. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_holes_front.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled in front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_holes_rear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drill in rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80so_LEDS.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED&#039;s installed on board with flat sides facing each other]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_resistors.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Wiring on solder side of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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====F2 Fuse Blows At Power Up on 80A games====&lt;br /&gt;
If the F2 fuse blows at power up, there is one overlooked problem that is good to check. This could also apply to 80B games, but a different fuse may blow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the transformer panel, there is a pair of cement resistors are soldered to a solder tab, which is screwed down to a small square plastic post. Check to make sure that this has not been moved to another screw hole in the metal of the transformer panel. Screwing this line to the metal of the transformer panel ties one of the AC lines to ground. Since this line is shorted/tied to ground, it also has the side effect of making the bridge rectifier test bad, since there is a tab tied to ground when there shouldn&#039;t be one. It is likely that the bridge rectifier will test good as soon as the solder tab is moved to the correct place.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:sys80-f2-fuse-blows-issue-2.jpg|Correct place to screw the solder tab (on the square plastic post)&lt;br /&gt;
File:sys80-f2-fuse-blows-issue-1.jpg|Incorrect place to screw the solder tab. This causes a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a large and varied number of reasons that a System 80 MPU will fail to boot. Unfortunately, as has been said before, &amp;quot;this is not a Bally world&amp;quot;. That is, unlike &amp;quot;classic&amp;quot; Bally and Stern MPUs the System 80 MPU provides absolutely no indication as to why it may have failed to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Debugging a non-booting MPU is somewhat of an art. A few basic steps are listed below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure your game is providing a solid 5VDC power source&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace the orange electrolytic cap in the cabinet bottom if still original&lt;br /&gt;
#Take the board to the bench&lt;br /&gt;
#Examine the board for Alkaline damage. If present, clean up&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure the reset section of the board is working. Pin 40 of the 6502 should begin &amp;quot;low&amp;quot;, then after about 1/2 second, transition to &amp;quot;high&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the clock signals at the 6502&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the IRQ signal at the 6502. Ensure it isn&#039;t &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the R/W (read/write) signal at the 6502. Again, ensure it isn&#039;t stuck&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the address and data lines to ensure that they are pulsing&lt;br /&gt;
#Feel each of the masked ROM chips at U2 and U3 as well as the 6532 RIOT chips at U4, U5, and U6. If the IC is too hot to touch, it has probably failed and should be replaced. Note that the 6532 RIOTs run hot normally. If one is noticeably hotter than the other, that may be an indication of failure.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test each of the 74XX chips in the switch matrix (Z11 - Z15) using this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit procedure].&lt;br /&gt;
#If the board has the original masked game ROM(s), replacement with the appropriately sized ROM is advised (generally a 2716).&lt;br /&gt;
#In the case of System 80B MPUs that employ a &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;, fractured solder joints where the &amp;quot;riser pins&amp;quot; meet the daughter card are often an issue. These joints can&#039;t be examined without removing the daughter card. And, removing the daughter card is not trivial. If flexing the daughter card causes the board to boot or to crash, fractured solder joints are a solid suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Power on &amp;quot;Thunk&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80 games exhibit a &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; upon power up. The manifestation of this is the unpredictable lighting of lamps, running of motors, and actuation of coils / relays.  The symptom is unpredictable in that swapping either the driver or the MPU board might change the behavior. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; can be suppressed via a process detailed [http://www.flippers.com/gott-system80.html#thunk here] by John Robertson.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Driver Reset Front.JPG|thumb|left|200px|The addition of an MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator on the driver board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Driver Reset Back.JPG|thumb|right|200px|The addition of an MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator on the driver board w/ traces cut and jumpers run.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As an alternative to John&#039;s approach, another method has been developed. The method employs the use of a reset generator tied to the &#039;&#039;&#039;CLR&#039;&#039;&#039; leg (pin 1) of the appropriate 74175 flip-flops (those that control devices that &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot;). The reset generator is added to the front of the driver board in the upper right hand corner. There is a &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot; in this location. Solder should be removed from the star via exposing a through hole. Next, two very small holes should be drilled into the board on either side of the via. Make certain not to drill through traces on the solder side of the board, and that neither hole touches the &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot;. Next, scrape the solder mask from the two thick traces on the solder side which pass closest to the star via. These traces terminate at capacitor C1 on the driver board.  The closest trace is ground and the other trace is +5v. Next, place a MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator through the driver board. The center leg (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) will pass through the star via, while the outer legs will go through the newly drilled holes. The flat side of the reset generator should be facing the components on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Next, bend the GND and 5V legs of the reset generator onto the appropriate traces where the masking was scraped.  Next, the traces on Z3, Z4, and Z5 should be cut between pin 1 and pin 16. This is the wide trace at the very top of the chip. Additionally, there is a thick trace to the right of pin 1 on Z4 which must be severed. After cutting this trace, pin 16 and the isolated trace must be tied together with a jumper.  This connects 5VDC to pin 16 of Z4. Now that pin 1 is isolated from 5VDC on chips Z3, Z4, and Z5, trace wire must be routed from the center leg (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) of the reset generator to pin 1 of each of these chips. Once this modification is completed, the coils associated with these chips will no longer be pulsed when the game is turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the modification which John Robertson lays out, it may not be necessary to isolate pin 1 of Z3, Z4, and Z5 for every game. However, isolating these 3 chips accommodates most System 80/A/B games that use lamp transistors to pre-drive coils / relays. The game over and tilt relays will still pulse briefly upon turning the game on but that behavior is generally acceptable. Isolating pin 1 of Z1 and tying pin 1 to the reset line of the reset generator will resolve this residual behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the trace wire shown in the pic on the right could have been routed more elegantly.  This was in part due to an afterthought in having Z3 tied to the reset generator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; is really just a minor irritation, most owners do not think that the resolution is worth the effort. However, on some games, the thunk can be very annoying by pulsing the ball release coil under the lower apron. The result is a ball being served into the shooter lane, before the MPU board even boots up. Most System 80B Genesis games run the &amp;quot;Reveal Motor&amp;quot; as a result of the &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ResetGeneratorPinExplanation.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Part number explanation and pin configuration for various reset generators.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Other reset generators may be used as long as the pinout of the legs is observed. Shown at left is a snippet of the datasheet that explains reset generator part numbers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateDethunkFront.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Using an MCP130-460DI/TO reset generator. Take care to drill the holes so that only one reset generator leg touches the star.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DethunkAlternateBack.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Jumpers are still connected to the &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot; but the new holes are drilled in different locations.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One alternate reset generator to use is the MCP130-460DI/TO which is also used in the section that discusses System 80 MPU alkaline corrosion abatement. The installation is a bit different as is shown in the adjacent pictures. The (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) signal is on the left leg of the reset generator while Vdd (5VDC) is in the center and Vss (Ground) is on the right leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Erratic Boot Issues with Later 80B Games (Hot Shots, Bad Girls, and Big House)====&lt;br /&gt;
Some erratic boot issues have been observed with the following games: Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Excalibur, however, the list of games may be more extensive.  The issues included are a locked on display with garbage characters shown, no display illuminating at all, sound board not booting (LED stuck on), locked on lamps, no controlled lamps, locked on coils, etc.  The source of the problem seems to stem from the fluorescent tube starter located in the backbox.  It is unknown why exactly this anomaly occurs.  Removal of the starter should resolve the booting issues.  Worst case scenario, remove the 110v panel fuse on the transformer panel use for the fluorescent light circuit.  Unfortunately, this is the only resolution known at this time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Battery Leakage and Corrosion====&lt;br /&gt;
Like most any other pinball machine manufactured, Gottlieb® uses batteries to supply power to the non-volatile RAM memory.  Certain game settings, high score thresholds (including high score to date), audit information, and bookkeeping information are all options which are saved when the game is powered off.  And unless some kind soul, who worked on your machine before, either removed the battery and mounted it remotely away from circuit boards, or just plain removed the battery, there will be some variety of a 3.6v Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) rechargeable battery soldered onto your CPU board.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, what&#039;s so bad about having a battery on the CPU board?  Well, nothing really, unless it&#039;s forgotten, and in most cases, it is.  While you let your pinball machine sit unplayed for weeks, months, or even years at a time, the battery remains perched on the circuit board like a ticking time bomb.  I&#039;m not saying the battery is going to blow up, although some replacement non-rechargeable batteries could overheat and / or explode if not correctly installed.  The battery is like a ticking time bomb, because it is a threat to the overall health of the electronic components, traces, and connectors attached to your CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now that I have your attention regarding the whole battery thing, let&#039;s talk about the battery, and what happens. . .&#039;&#039;&#039;WHEN GOOD BATTERIES GO BAD&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It&#039;s not that some batteries were born on the wrong side of the tracks or anything. Any good battery can go bad without much warning.  It takes time, but eventually you will find that your battery has crossed over to the &amp;quot;dark side&amp;quot;.  That particular time is typically when you turn your game on, the lights come on, and that&#039;s it.  The displays don&#039;t light up. The start up sounds don&#039;t resonant. And, the silver ball stays in its comfy little home.  Nada...nothing...no signs of anything resembling a fun game of pinball.  &#039;&#039;&#039;UH-OH!&#039;&#039;&#039; So what happened?  The pinball machine worked fine the last time you played it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Well, while you were out having a good time and enjoying life, the poor, aged, neglected battery decided to wreak havoc all over the reset section, clock section, or possibly more regions on your CPU board.  The CPU battery spewing its guts all over the place is akin to the batteries in the flashlight you haven&#039;t turned on since the last power outage a year or two ago.  You go to turn on the flashlight when you need it most, and find out there&#039;s something wrong.  So being the curious type, you open the flashlight&#039;s battery compartment only to find some kind of blue-green funk leaking all over, or the batteries now look like they need a shave.  The resolution to the flashlight scenario is pretty simple. Throw it away, and buy a new one. Your CPU board problem can be resolved the same way, except it will be a lot more costly, and is not recommended to just pitch it in the trash. If the battery damage to the CPU board is not overly extensive, attempt to repair it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Typical Battery Found on a System 80 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s unfortunate, but every battery has a life expectancy.  The only silver lining is that some of the Ni-Cad batteries installed on Gottlieb® CPU boards can last longer than others.  Probably the worst culprit of board destruction is the &#039;&#039;&#039;Data Sentry&#039;&#039;&#039; pack, and its associated knock-offs.  This battery comes in a black rectangular plastic package.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80A battery.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical Battery Found on a System 80A / 80B CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another battery pack style which looks very similar to the NiCad battery packs found in &amp;quot;old school&amp;quot; cordless phones.  It is actually three small NiCad cells wrapped separately in an orange poly material, which is wrapped in a outer white poly material.  These don&#039;t leak nearly as badly, but they still have the potential to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Replacement nicad.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical NiCad Battery Which was Replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The final common battery style is a what looks like an AA battery on steroids.  This style is a fraction longer and fatter than an AA battery&#039;s physical form, and has two soldered leads on either end.  If you find one of these, it means the battery was previously replaced.  The good news is that this battery is newer than the original. However, the same results of battery seepage can occur.  The only benefit of this type of battery is that it can be carefully cut (in most cases) from the board without removing the board from your game.  This is a plus if no battery damage has occurred.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage03.JPG|200px|thumb|left|NiCad Battery Damage to a System 80A CPU Board&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;(Note:  This is considered very mild damage!)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage04.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Damage from the battery may also occur on the back side of the board, especially on the edge connection fingers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So what happens if you don&#039;t heed the above warnings, and the battery is allowed to remain on the board?  Plain and simple - &#039;&#039;&#039;THE BATTERY WILL LEAK!&#039;&#039;&#039;  It&#039;s only a matter of time.  Equally, the path of destruction is uncertain.  Batteries don&#039;t just leak - they release caustic, alkaline fumes.  These fumes attack wherever there is copper, even tinned or soldered copper.  The end results are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*solder joints which become green or gray and crusty as opposed to a shiny silver&lt;br /&gt;
*connectors which are also now green / gray or potentially broken&lt;br /&gt;
*solder mask, the green covering the electronic traces, on the circuit board has either flaked off or is partially delaminating (lifting)&lt;br /&gt;
*insulated wire becomes less flexible and brittle&lt;br /&gt;
*sometimes the alkaline &amp;quot;cloud&amp;quot; in the game&#039;s backbox causes every board in the head to be affected.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electronic components, related solder joints, circuit board traces, connectors, and even insulated wire will become unreliable and/or fail.  In all cases, the affected components are less conductive.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If battery damage has occurred, the related parts must now be replaced.  Attempting to remove soldered through components on the circuit board is now even more of a task.  The green / gray dull solder does not transfer heat well.  Battery damaged solder does not flow like clean solder.  Also, crimped connectors are more difficult to remove from their housings, and have a tendency to break before they can be successfully pulled out.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After all the effected electronic components are removed, the board must be treated.  This process starts by sanding the traces and solder pads until shiny copper is exposed.  It is worth mentioning that a battery damaged board can be treated by bead blasting instead of sanding, however, most people do not have access to such a machine.  After the copper areas of the board have been either sanded or bead blasted, an acidic bath of 50% vinegar and 50% (preferably distilled) water is applied to the board.  A small brush like a toothbrush can be used to scrub the board&#039;s area. The purpose of introducing an acid to the effected area is to neutralize what the battery has left behind.   The liquid and fumes from the battery are actually a base, not an acid.  Next, rinse the area of the board with water.  Once the board is clean, isopropyl alcohol (the higher the alcohol percentage the better) is applied to the same area to rinse away the acid bath, and hopefully dissipate any remaining water.  Finally, the board is either blown dry or air dried.  This may be a given, but &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT ATTEMPT TO APPLY POWER TO THE BOARD IF IT IS STILL WET!&#039;&#039;&#039;  Most liquids are conductive to some extent. After the previous steps are performed, the task of installing the new components begins.  If any traces or solder pads were damaged, see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 Repairing Traces] portion of this Wiki guide on to to fix them.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The point I&#039;m trying to ultimately make is this...regardless of age, shape, or form, &#039;&#039;&#039;remove the battery from the CPU board&#039;&#039;&#039;, as soon as it realized that there is a battery on the board.  If not, the board can be damaged, nonfunctional, and become more difficult or even impossible to repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing that should be done to any System 80 MPU is remove the rechargeable NiCad battery from the MPU board. All batteries leak. They are like ticking bombs. It is merely a matter of when they will leak and possibly damage (sometimes irreplaceable) boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are at least &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;five&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; methods of relocating and/or replacing the battery on a System 80/80A/80B MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the battery completely without replacing it. The 5101 memory will not store information from power-on to power-on and therefore, high scores, replay levels, and credits will be lost.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80battery.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Remote Battery]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Mount a remote battery pack that uses standard AA batteries (x3) to protect your board.  A blocking diode must be installed (1N4004, although a 1N4001 will work just as well) to prevent the game circuitry from attempting to charge the batteries. Install the blocking diode in series with the positive lead of the battery pack, with the band oriented toward the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MemorySuperCap.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Here a 5.5V, 1F Super Cap is used to retain 5101 memory for up to 30 days]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the battery with a 1F 5.5V &amp;quot;SuperCap&amp;quot;. The capacitor will never leak, will charge during power-on cycles, and will retain 5101 memory for about 30 days. If you&#039;ve sanded traces as was done in the picture, use a non-conductive material to cover the trace under the cap to ensure that the negative side of the cap doesn&#039;t short a trace (such as clear nail polish, green overcoat pen, electrical tape, or fishpaper). Cut the tape in a circular shape and poke the capacitor leads through it so it can&#039;t fall off in the future. (Electric tape is notorious for slipping.)  An alternate solution would be get a piece of fishpaper insulator, cut that into a circle and poke holes in it for the capacitor leads.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 H Mem Cap.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Alternate method for installing a memory cap]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 H Mem Cap Back.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Tying the negative lead of the memory cap to the negative pad on the MPU board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The memory cap can also be installed in the two leftmost holes, where the Ni-Cad battery formerly resided.  The negative lead of the memory cap will then have to be tied to the negative (ground) through hole of the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remotely mount a replacement NiCad battery in a location that, should it leak, won&#039;t damage valuable circuit boards.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebCR2032.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|a CR2032 Lithium &amp;quot;Button Cell&amp;quot; Battery Installed]][[File:GottliebBlockingDiode.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|A 1N4004 Blocking Diode Installed &amp;quot;inline&amp;quot; with the Positive Connection]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the original NiCad battery with a Lithium button cell CR2032 battery and holder. The holes for the original battery can be repurposed to connect the button cell holder and to add the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;necessary&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; blocking diode in the positive side of the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Using a Reset Generator for the CPU Reset Section ====&lt;br /&gt;
If you find that the battery has leaked, alkaline damage can be cleaned up, traces repaired, and new components installed with kits available from several sources, including Great Plains Electronics.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An alternative to replacing a great many of the components is to use the Dallis/Maxim DS1811 reset generator. The DS1811-10 has a typical trip point of 4.35VDC. You may also use the Microchip Technology equivalent, part number [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460DI%2FTO MCP130-460DI/TO], available from Great Plains Electronics. Remove all reset section components, clean up residual alkaline damage, add four jumpers, and install the reset generator as pictured below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After jumpers and the reset generator are added, make certain there is continuity between the three legs of the reset generator and the appropriate locations on the circuit board.  Below is a list of the reset generator legs and the board locations.  Pin 1 of the reset generator is the left leg, when the flat side of the unit is facing towards the user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 1 of reset generator to pin 2 of Z4&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 2 of reset generator to +5VDC line (lower leg of C2)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 3 of reset generator to ground (upper leg of C2)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Using the Dallas Maxim 1811 Reset Generator&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dallas_Maxim_Reset_scaled.JPG|A System 80 MPU with alkaline damage repaired/cleaned. Reset circuitry replaced with the much simpler Dallas Maxim 1811&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80 reset gen jumpers updated.png|Illustrated picture of components to remove, keep, and jumpers to add.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dallas_Maxim_Reset_scaled_with_markup.JPG|The same image, but with indications of jumper locations (yellow dots) and where to install the Dallas Maxim 1811, flat side facing the bottom of the board. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: View at full resolution&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 MCP120 Reset Gen.JPG|200px|left|thumb|MCP120 reset generator installed with 4.7K pullup resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a reset generator with an internal pullup resistor (MCP130 series) is not available, an MCP120 reset generator can be installed.  However, an external resistor must be installed between the reset and +5v.  The easiest location to install the resistor is between the through hole where the top leg of Q4 was, and through hole where the bottom leg of Q2 was.  In the adjacent image, an MCP120-460DI/TO is installed with the 4.7K 1/4 watt external pullup resistor highlighted.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing this type of reset generator, remove all of the components, and add all of the jumpers related to the installation of an MCP130-460DI/TO reset generator.  Adding the external pullup resistor is the only additional step.  Failure to add the pullup resistor will result in the reset signal not going high, and the board will not boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Slam Switch Modification ====&lt;br /&gt;
In order to test the CPU board on the test bench, a modification must be made to the CPU board to make the CPU think that the slam switch is closed. If the CPU thinks that the slam switch is not closed, the CPU will not complete the boot process, instead booting into a mode where the displays flicker all zeros at a very rapid rate (System 80 and 80A). See the image [[Gottlieb_System_80#Open_Slam_Switch | here]] for a depiction of what you&#039;ll see.  When the slam switch is open on a System 80B game, (the appropriate games where the slam switch is supposed to be closed), an &amp;quot;OPEN SLAM SWITCH&amp;quot; message will be shown on the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® designed the slam switch as a normally closed switch. That is, the switch must be closed for the machine to operate normally. When a brute kicks the machine, the slam switch will open from the inertial force on the weight attached to the switch, and the slam switch will open. Since the CPU is on the bench, we need a way to have this switch closed at all times to properly test the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, slam switches themselves fail. It&#039;s a good idea to implement this change as a preemptive fix for slam switch failures.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Slammod.png|200px|thumb|left|Slam Switch Mod]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The slam switch can effectively be permanently closed by making a small solder bridge across two traces to the right of Z26 (which is on the lower right side of the CPU board). To permanently close the switch, remove the solder mask by scraping with a sharp knife or screwdriver. Create the solder bridge between the two now bare traces. This change will connect pin 13 of Z26 to ground, permanently closing the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DefeatSlamSwitch.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Alternative Slam Switch Mod]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Z26RemovedSlamSwitch.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Z26 removed. One can easily see that the two methods of defeating the Slam switch are equivalent.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An alternate method of achieving the same results is to solder a clipped resistor leg across the bottom of capacitor (C30) and resistor (R20), both immediately to the left of Z26.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Ni-WumpfSlamMod.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Slam Switch Mod for Ni-Wumpf CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To permanently close the slam switch on a Ni-Wumpf CPU board, you need to connect pin A1J5-10 to ground on the board.  This picture shows how to do this from the back of the board by soldering a jumper wire.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that the last 4 Gottlieb® System 80B games were released with normally open slam switches.  Do not perform the slam switch modification on these games.  This includes the following games:&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Girls&lt;br /&gt;
*Big House&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Shots&lt;br /&gt;
*Bonebusters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
*Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Regardless of what platform the game is based on, there is only one slam switch used in a System 80/80A/80B game.  It is the weighted switch located on the coin door.  There is some confusion that the ball roll tilt and weighted tilt switch on the playfield are slam switches.  They are not.  These switches along with the pendulum tilt are all tilt switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== System 80B Daughter Board Solder Joints ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80B CPU.JPG|260px|thumb|left|A typical System 80B MPU Board, showing the location of the &amp;quot;daughter board&amp;quot;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BFracturedJointsDaughterCard.jpg|thumb|right|140px|A closeup of Gottlieb® System 80B Daughter Board Male Header Pins with fractured solder joints. This board was cleanly removed from the CPU with great care.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Games with System 80B MPUs feature a &amp;quot;daughter board&amp;quot; to accommodate the 2764 game ROM as shown in the picture on the left. The daughter board connects to the MPU board at the location occupied by U3 in System 80/80A MPUs, via a 24-pin male header. That connection is a two-sided solder joint that can fail. As can be seen in the picture at right, these same header pins connect to the daughter board via a single sided solder joint. Since the daughter board is cantilevered over both the former location of U2 and U3, pressing on this board over time commonly results in fractured solder joints (as seen, right) at the single sided joint and sometimes at the two-sided joint.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typical symptoms of fractured solder joints at this location are failure to boot, random resets, and random lockups. Sometimes pressing on the daughter board will &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the issue temporarily. This is a sure indication of cracked solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Correction of this issue is easier said than done. And, if you do not possess the tools, skills, and experience to desolder the daughter board, this task is best left to a professional pinball circuit board repair technician. Desoldering the 24 male header pins from the delicate solder pads without damaging the pads or pulling traces is non-trivial.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Continuity Chart of Pinouts for Damaged U2 / U3 Area=====&lt;br /&gt;
It is far too easy for inexperienced technicians to tear up the traces or eyelets at positions U2 and U3 when attempting to remove the daughter board from the System 80B MPU.  If the traces or through holes are damaged, clearly they must be repaired.  Nearly all of the signals which pass from U2 and U3 continue on to the 3 RIOTs at U4, U5, and U6 and also to the PROM 1 position. Below is a handy chart which can be used to ensure continuity between critical parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U2 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U3 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U4, U5 &amp;amp; U6 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U1&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Other&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;16&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A7&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;40&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;15&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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|-&lt;br /&gt;
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| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A0&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=GREEN&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D0&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
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|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;31&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;31&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=GREEN&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1,21&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;GND&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;13&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;13&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;30&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;30&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=GREEN&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;14&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;14&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;29&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;29&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=GREEN&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D4&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;15&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;15&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;28&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;28&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=GREEN&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;26&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;26&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=GREEN&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;D7&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;18&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;18&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;BAB11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z10 Pin 4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;19&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;19&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;BAB10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z12 Pin 10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;20&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;20&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;BAB13&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z10 Pin 6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;21&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;BAB12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z10 Pin 12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;21&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;/BAB12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z7 Pin 10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;22&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;22&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;18&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A9&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;23&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;23&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A8&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;24&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;24&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;20&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+5V&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 80B Daughter Board Replacement Options=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U2U3AdapterGPE.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Replacement daughter board engineered by Great Plains Electronics. &#039;&#039;Image used with permission from Great Plains Electronics.&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Great Plains Electronics produced a better replacement daughter board. This board is designed to be installed in both the U2 and U3 sockets, eliminating the problem of board flex and cracked solder joints with the daughter board. Unfortunately, it is no longer available. If it needs to be installed on an MPU (especially where the U2/U3 chips are not socketed for easy removal), it is recommended to desolder the chips, fit the replacement board into quality machine pin sockets, then fit the entire assembly into the MPU board for soldering. The board is also designed with redundant traces for all but a few of the signals, as almost all signals are present at both the U2 and the U3 sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pinitech has another replacement option called [https://www.pinitech.com/products/gottlieb_piggydeux.php Piggy Deux], but at the time of writing, it is not currently available. This module fits into the TC1 test socket near top of the MPU, which saves a lot of trouble by not requiring removal or repair of the original daughter board. The 2764 EPROM chip simply needs to be removed from the original daughter board and installed into the Piggy Deux module.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====An Alternate to the Daughter Board on System 80B MPU Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Alt D-Board.jpg|thumb|left|200px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Raven No D-Board jecourie.jpg|thumb|right|150px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Raven)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Alt D-Board_Back.jpg|thumb|left|200px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 - Back Side (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Raven No D-Board back jecourie.jpg|thumb|right|150px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 - Back Side (Raven)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB_Sys80B_Alt_D-Board_Cut_Trace.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Trace cut on an 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ====&lt;br /&gt;
A great place to source power for your logic probe while diagnosing the board is across the filter capacitor in the vicinity of connector J1. Connect the black lead of your logic probe to the negative lead of the capacitor for ground. Connect the red lead of your logic probe to the positive lead of the capacitor for 5V. The red lead can also connect to E1, the vertically-aligned 5V jumper wire, below the 6502 chip. Take care to ensure that the clips don&#039;t short to adjacent components.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Future Update****This section works for now, but we can generalize bench power supply construction here:&lt;br /&gt;
[[Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board is much easier to work on if it is removed from the backbox and placed on the test bench. An AT-style PC power supply can be used to power the MPU board on the bench. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Obtain an old PC power supply. If you don&#039;t have an old computer laying around, head on off to the thrift store and pick one up. Remove the power supply from the case by unscrewing the appropriate screws. Be careful not to unscrew the power supply case itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PowerSupply.png|200px|thumb|left|Power Supply]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Clip one of the connectors from the power supply wire bundle and clearly mark on the power supply box the value of each of the colored wires from the power supply. Typically, the yellow wire is 12V, red is 5V, and the black is ground. Strip insulation from the end of the red wire and the black wire as the System 80 MPU requires only 5V and ground to boot. Use alligator clips to connect 5v and ground to the appropriate J1 connection. I use larger alligator clips to make the connection easier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MPUPower.png|200px|thumb|left|J1 Connector]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Mark connector J1 where the positive and negative (common) connection is for the five volts from the computer power supply. The ground connection is on the top of the connector, the 5V connection is on the bottom. The image shows A1J1 with the markings. I took the picture with the board still mounted in the machine. Connect the 5v supply with alligator clips to the positive connector on J1 and the black wire (ground) to the negative connector of J1.&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it! you&#039;re good to go!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====List of Acceptable TTL Chip Substitutes on a System 80 CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Several years ago, Ed from GPE replied to a System 80 chip substitution question on rec.games.pinball [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/msg/86f37cb479ece4c4 here] and later on Pinside [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-chip-replacement#post-4139713 here]. The info from those responses are summarized below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Most of the parts can be freely substituted.  But many cannot.  The clock oscillator circuit (Z3) is one example of a part that cannot be subbed.  Also, some IC&#039;s have hefty loads and cannot be subbed (some of the 7404&#039;s and a 7432).  The 7474 in question on this board can be freely subbed with a 74LS74 or a 74HCT74.  I went through all the standard logic devices on the Gottlieb System 80 MPU.  Based on loading and output characteristics, this is what I get as valid subs for the System 80 MPU.  Of course, substituting some of the parts will ripple through and allow others to be substituted as well - but this can get quite convoluted.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip Designation&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Substitute (Y/N)&lt;br /&gt;
!Acceptable Substitutes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z1 || 4528 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z2 || 7474 || Y || 74LS74 and 74HCT74&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z3&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(1)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || ? || Possibly 74LS04 and/or 74F04; See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z4 || 4081 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z7 || 74LS04 || Y || 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z8 || 7402 || Y || 74LS02 and 74HCT02&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z9 || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z10&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(2)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 74LS05 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z11&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z12&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z13&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z14&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z15 || 7432 || Y || 74F32 and 74S32&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z16&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(5)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z17 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z18 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z19 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z20 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z21 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z22 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z23 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z24 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z25 || 74154 || Y ||74LS154 and 74HCT154&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z26 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z27 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z28 || 74LS139 || Y ||74HCT139&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z29 || 7416 || Y ||7406&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z30 || 7416 || Y ||7406&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z31&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(6)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7408 || Y ||74LS08&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z32 || 7417 || Y ||7407&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z33 || 74154 || Y ||74LS154 and 74HCT154&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z34&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)(8)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || Y ||74LS04, see note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z35&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || Y ||74LS04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z36 || 4069 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(1)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z3 cannot use a 74HC04 or 74HCT04, since these have &amp;quot;high impedance inputs&amp;quot; and won&#039;t work properly in an oscillator circuit. A 74LS04 should work, and possibly 74F04, but the better candidate would be a 74LS04. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(2)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Untested, but it may be possible to use an 74LS00 or 74HCT00 at Z10 in place of 7405. However, this will defeat the ability to test the MPU using the [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=120-102 QuickScan80 tester].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z11 &amp;amp; Z12 only have to sink ~2mA, so they might be able to be replaced with 74LS04, but this might result in noisy switching.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z13 &amp;amp; Z14 are in the switch matrix. 74LS00 might a possible substitute, but substitutions can result in noisy switching, and isn&#039;t recommended here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(5)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: If Z18, 20, and 22 are 74175, do not substitute.  If Z18, 20, and 22 are 74LS175 or 74HCT175, acceptable subs are 74LS04 and 74HCT04.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(6)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z31 can use 74LS08. 74HCT08 can be used as well, but 74HCT08 is not a good board-to-board driver, and isn&#039;t the best option here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: 74HCT04 can be used at Z34 &amp;amp; Z35 as well as 74LS04, but 74HCT04 is not a good board-to-board driver, and isn&#039;t the best option here. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(8)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Had issues with a 74LS04 installed at Z34 in a Haunted House. The side effects were the lower playfield VUK would fire and partially lock on when the lower playfield 5-bank drop target would reset.  Also, the 5-bank drop target would continuously tried to reset when the lower playfield VUK switch was closed. The issue acted as if there was a switch matrix issue, but there wasn&#039;t.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing the quartz crystal with a TTL Oscillator====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Alkaline corrosion may damage the board in such a way that it&#039;s advantageous to replace the original quartz crystal oscillator with a TTL oscillator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_logic_sys80.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Clock section of the system 80 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:oscillator.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The original crystal, Z3, and a few resistors may be replaced with a 900 kHz TTL Oscillator that is packaged like this 16Mhz version.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 clock signal is produced by a 3.57Mhz crystal, a few resistors, and Z3 (a 7404). Z2 divides the clock by 4, resulting in a clock signal of approximately 900 KHz, which is provided at pin 9 of Z2.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you cannot find a 900 KHz TTL oscillator (I couldn’t) you can also use the 1MHz variant, and tune your pin up a little bit. ;-) Game play shouldn&#039;t be impacted, as long as the game doesn&#039;t have a timer related feature, like Timeline. Even games like Timeline will be minimally impacted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_system80_vorher.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The original clock section as found on every System 80, 80A and 80B MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_system80_nachher.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The clock section after installing a TTL oscillator.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To accomplish this mod, remove the following parts&lt;br /&gt;
*Y1 (Crystal)&lt;br /&gt;
*Z2 (TTL 7474)&lt;br /&gt;
*R3, R4 und R5 ( the three resistors above Z2). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Z3 is still needed for other functions. Leave it in place. Now place the oscillator in the Z2 position, with the ‘dot’ in the upper left corner (Pin 1). Because we need the clock signal at pin 9, jumper from pin 8 to pin 9 at the original Z2 position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Using a WDC 65C02 in a System 80/80A/80B MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
Western Design Center (WDC) has reproduced the 6502 in a CMOS version designated 65C02. It works perfectly in all System 80 MPUs with one modification. Pin 36 of the 65C02 must be pulled up to Vcc (5VDC) via a 3K (or 3.3K) pull-up resistor. Pin 36 (BE) is the &amp;quot;bus enable&amp;quot; input which allows external control of the 65C02 busses. Pin 36 is unused by original 6502s and not connected to anything on System 80 MPU boards. Simply tack soldering a 3 - 3.3K resistor between pin 36 and a 5VDC trace will do the trick.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game Resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games sometimes exhibit &amp;quot;resets&amp;quot;, especially when high power coils fire. Assuming you&#039;ve updated the power supply grounds and reflowed or replaced the header pins on the Power Supply, there are a few typical causes for System 80 resets.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 bad caps.JPG|140px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Filtering Capacitors]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#The 12VDC filter capacitor in the cabinet bottom which, if still original, should always be replaced. Originally, this was a 6800uf/25V capacitor. Replace with a 6800uf to 12,000uf/25V cap such as [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=RCT123M025V3550B&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat=| this one] from Great Plains Electronics. The filtered 12VDC is regulated down to 5VDC on the power supply board.  Note that some games have two of these capacitors (as shown). Note: purchase a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=VR3A&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= VR3A capacitor clamp] from Great Plains Electronics when replacing the large capacitor for a clean looking job.&lt;br /&gt;
#The bridge rectifier that originates the 12VDC&lt;br /&gt;
#Missing, broken, or failed coil diodes&lt;br /&gt;
#Poor 5VDC power connections between the power supply and the MPU. The female connector on the MPU connects 5VDC to the MPU via molex crimp-on pins and a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; edge connector pad. Ground is connected in the same way. But you&#039;ve done the ground mods, right?&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A / 80B Resets====&lt;br /&gt;
A failed or failing reset board can &#039;&#039;cause&#039;&#039; resets.  The reset board may cause problems all of the time, or just when the game is under stress, like multiball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To see if the reset board is the problem, disconnect it.  If disconnecting the reset board resolves the issue, there are two fixes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Replace the large caps (C3 and C4).  These have dried out over the years and screw up the timing of these boards.&lt;br /&gt;
* Leave the reset board disconnected&amp;amp;mdash;if someone will always be in the general vicinity of the game to turn it off should the CPU lock up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When first trying to get a System 80A or System 80B game to boot properly, it is best to disconnect the reset board until the game is working.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors C3 and C4 are both 470 uf @ 16 volts. C1 is a 47 uf @ 16 volts. Be careful when unsoldering these capacitors as the foil traces are very delicate. The connector pins also develop bad solder joints so it is wise to resolder it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Updating a dual game PROM MPU (1st generation) to a single game PROM configuration (2nd generation)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted earlier, the first five system 80 games used both sockets at PROM1 and PROM2, populating them with 512 byte masked ROMs. Should one of these ROMs fail, you may be able to find a replacement, but they are becoming more pricey, more difficult to find, and are still prone to failure as they age.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A more flexible solution would be to update the MPU to use a single 2716 UVEPROM at the PROM1 socket. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Modifications must be made to both the solder side and the component side of the board. See the pictures below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Component side modification:&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the trace that extends from the left of Z10 between pins 6 and 7. A Dremel with a &amp;quot;ball shaped&amp;quot; cutter bit works beautifully for this. In the second picture below, the cut has already been made. I&#039;ve filled the cut hole with black Sharpie! to better show the location of the cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder side modifications:&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the traces leading to PROM1 socket, pins 19 and 21. Again, the cuts have been highlighted with black Sharpie!&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 19, to the PROM2 socket, pin 21 (connects A10)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 21, to the PROM2 socket, pin 24 (connects +5V to Vpp)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 22, to the PROM2 socket, pin 18 (connects A9)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from Z10, pin 13 to the via just below and to the right of Z9 (as you view the back of the board)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Your MPU board is now configured for any System 80 game. All that remains is to acquire a 2716 EPROM containing the game&#039;s code. If you have the original ROM images, the DOS command to combine them is shown below. Modify as appropriate to match the file names you have.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b prom1.bin + prom2.bin combined.716&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU may also be used in a System 80A game if U2/U3 are updated, and in a System 80B game if considerably more mods are made which frankly, just aren&#039;t worth it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 1st Generation to 2nd Generation Board Updates&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DremelBallCutter.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Dremel Tool with &amp;quot;Ball Cutter&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Z10TraceCut.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut in trace extending Left from Z10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PROM2-to-PROM1JumpersAndTraceCuts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;PROM2-to-PROM1 Socket Cuts and Jumpers&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Z10-Pin13-to-ViaJumper.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper connecting Z10, pin 13 to a &amp;quot;via&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a 2732 at the PROM2 position in a System 80B MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
====...in games that &amp;quot;normally&amp;quot; use a 2716====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to use a 2732 at position PROM2 with an MPU jumpered to use a 2732 for a game that normally populates that position with a 2716. Simply &amp;quot;double-up&amp;quot; the 2716 ROM image, and burn it into a 2732.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS command to accomplish this is ... copy /b image.2716 + image.2716 image.2732&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====...using an MA-1133 or MA-774 MPU in games that REQUIRE a 2732====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80B games require 4K of code space at PROM 2, which dictates a 2732 EPROM. An MPU built to use a 2716 EPROM at PROM2 can be modified to work, as is discussed below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU schematics of game manuals, such as &amp;quot;Bad Girls&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Big House&amp;quot;, state that E3 is directly connected to AB15 (address bus 15).  However, there is no mention of the factory modification (outlined below) performed on CPU boards stamped MA-1133.  Equally, should the user have an MA-774 CPU board, (used in games starting with Chicago Cubs Triple Play and ending with Robo-War), this modification can be performed to use the board in the following games.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Excalibur&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Girls&lt;br /&gt;
*Big House&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Shots&lt;br /&gt;
*Bone Busters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
*Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PROM2 is actually located at the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot; on the PCB. The area on the board marked &amp;quot;PROM 2&amp;quot;, which has solder pads but no socket, is a legacy carried over from the first generation System 80 CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following information was taken from a service bulletin located in the back of the 1992 Gottlieb® parts catalog.  This modification makes AB15 available to PROM 2, allowing the use of a 2732 EPROM at this position. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This procedure can be used in reverse if you have an MA-1133 board and you need to use a 2716 at position PROM2.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#If jumper E4 is installed, remove it. You will find the top of the E4 jumper located immediately to the right of the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a jumper at E3. This connects the pad marked E3 to the dual pad marked E4.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, follow the trace from the pad marked E3 Southeast 1/8 inch, then South about 1/2 inch to a via. &lt;br /&gt;
#Find this via on the component side of the board. It will extend to the left to another via.&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the trace between the two vias.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a jumper from TC1, pin 35 to the right solder pad of the via which was just cut.&lt;br /&gt;
#All other jumpers should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80B PROM 2 2732 Update&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_sysS80b_2732_prom2_front.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;E4 removed, E3 installed, and trace cut below E3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB sysS80b 2732 prom2 back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper from TC1 pin 35 to E3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 drvr pw.png|160px|thumb|left|The System 80A / 80B Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Driver board is responsible for all controlled lamps, relays, and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;all solenoids&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via a simple interface between A1J4 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.  Although the driver board went through some minor changes over the years, the same board can be adapted for all of the System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; total of 52 &#039;&#039;&#039;lamp circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the interface provides &amp;quot;device select&amp;quot; signals for each of the 74175s (Quad-D Flip-Flops) on the driver board, and 4 &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; of data that is loaded (or &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot;) into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives an MPS-A13 or MPS-U45 transistor, (NDS-U45 transistors were used in place of MPS-U45s in some cases). &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that there are some dedicated transistors, which control specific game relay coils across the System 80 / 80A platforms.  Relays such as the game over, tilt, and coin lockout relays are controlled by Q1, Q2, and Q3 respectively.  The tilt and game over relays use the same designation for the System 80B platform, however, the use of a coin lockout relay was abandoned by this time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_drvr_board_coin_ctrs.JPG|160px|thumb|left|Driver Board with Coin Counter Transistors Highlighted ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;solenoids circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the driver board uses signals directly from the CPU to enable transistors on the driver board which turn on up to 9 solenoids.  For solenoid control, the driver board uses MPS-U45, 2N3055, and 2N6043 transistors.  Starting and ending with the System 80 platform, (games from Spiderman to Haunted House), three transistors were reserved to drive optional mechanical coin counters. These mechanical coin counter solenoids and associated transistors are: solenoid 3 (Q54), 4 (Q55), and 7 (Q56). Starting with the System 80A platform, (Devil&#039;s Dare), these transistors were no longer reserved for coin counters, and were used for other functions. Equally, the 3 diodes associated with these 3 transistors were changed to 3 zero ohm jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;sound&#039;&#039;&#039; signals (S1, S2, S4, S8) also pass through the driver board at Z13, a 7404 Hex Inverter. See below for S16 and S32.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Repurposed Driver Board Circuits====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb under pf transistor.JPG‎|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Remote Transistor Mounted Under the Playfield]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since quite a few System 80 games employ more than 9 solenoids, and since the original driver board design will drive a maximum of 9 solenoids, Gottlieb® repurposed some lamp outputs to drive &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot; which drive additional solenoids.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb ma1011 trans board.JPG‎|160px|thumb|left| A Typical Transistor Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once playfields became littered with numerous &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot;, Gottlieb® opted to merge some of these transistors into a transistor driver board.  The transistor driver board started to appear on Gottlieb® games nearly midway through the System 80B platform, with the game Victory.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound S16 and S32 signals are also repurposed lamp outputs. For instance, Haunted House and Black Hole both repurpose L9 to S16. Robo-War repurposes lamp 4 to S16. Note that S16 is not consistently implemented across the System 80 family. Note also that references to the usage of S32 are difficult to find.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 driver screws.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Nuts / Screws Which Secure the 2N3055s Collector to Drive Line]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Make certain to inspect and tighten the screws which secure the 2N3055 TO-3 transistors to the driver board.  Specifically, the screws / nuts as marked in the pic.  They tie the transistor cases (collector) to the respective solenoid drive lines.  If these cases are not secured, the transistors will not function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Remote Mounted Transistors==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:UnderPFTransistor.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Under Playfield Transistor, with Emitter, Base, and Collector Labeled]]System 80 games have just nine dedicated solenoid circuits on the driver board.  To overcome this threshold, Gottlieb® added step-up transistors mounted to brackets underneath the playfield. Early on, a lamp driven transistor is used to &amp;quot;pre-drive&amp;quot; the larger solenoid transistor. However, there are instances where a solenoid transistor is used to pre-drive a remoted mounted transistor.  Eventually, Premier got smart and started mounting up to three transistors to PCBs, but only on later 80B games (Arena and newer). These PCBs were mounted behind the game&#039;s display board or on the side wall of the lower cabinet.  In some cases, primarily 80B games, the game&#039;s diagnostics will drive these transistors during test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 80 games, under playfield transistors were originally 2N5875s or 2N5879s. The failure rate of the original transistors tends to be rather high. 30 years can be a long time for a transistor of that technology. Should one fail, it can be replaced with its beefier siblings&amp;amp;mdash;2N5883 or 2N5884. An MJ2955 will work also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games used a mix of 2N5879 transistors and MJ2955 transistors for driving flash lamps and coils.&lt;br /&gt;
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A ground wire is always connected to the tip of the transistor (collector) and leads to ground. On System 80 games, this wire is green/yellow (Gottlieb® wire color code 54).  On 80B games, ground wires are plain white with no trace (Gottlieb® wire color code 9).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;emitter&amp;quot; should be connected to the lug of the coil that has the non-banded side of the diode facing it (black-blue-blue in this picture).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; should be connected to the drive wire from the driver board (brown-red-red in this picture).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Solenoids which use a remote mounted transistor cannot be enabled by temporarily grounding the pre-drive transistor&#039;s tab to ground. This test is typically performed to check the integrity of the wiring from the drive transistor to the solenoid.  This test however does not confirm if the drive transistor is good or not. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Remote Mounted Transistor Update=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Remote transistor circuitry.png|left|thumb|180px|Gottlieb® Remote Transistor Circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During the run of Black Hole, Gottlieb® released a service bulletin recommending that the existing 10Kohm pullup resistor be changed to a 4.7Kohm resistor when changing from a 2N5875 to a 2N5879 or equivalent.  Affected Black Hole games were marked serial number 6271 to 9160.  However, there were several games prior to and after Black Hole, where a pullup resistor was never installed.  And, don&#039;t always bank on the playfields installed in a game being original to the cabinet&#039;s serial number.  Case in point is a recently acquired Black Hole where the main playfield had a factory pull up resistor for the ball release coil transistor, but the 3 coils on the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole#Pull_Up_Resistors_Added_to_Remote_Transistors_.28Centrally_Located.29_on_Lower_Playfield lower playfield which use remote transistors] did not have the pull resistors added.&lt;br /&gt;
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It is highly recommended to add this resistor.  This upgrade will decrease the chances of particular solenoids, which use a remote mounted transistor, from locking on when the game is powered up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Pullup circuitry.png|left|thumb|180px|Gottlieb® Remote Transistor Circuit w/ Pull Up Resistor Upgrade]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 4.7K resistor is soldered to the base of the remote mounted transistor, and then tied to the 24vdc solenoid bus.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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====Power On &amp;quot;Thunk&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
Due to the driver board design, certain solenoids and / or relays can pulse briefly as soon as a game is turned on.  To rectify the issue, please refer to the [[#Power_on_.22Thunk.22|Power on Thunk]] section above.  This applies to potentially all System 80/80A/80B games, where the solenoid / relay signal passes through one of the 74175 chips on the driver board.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Correcting Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb&#039;s implementation to control solenoids was, at a top level, identical to every other game manufacturer. Power is present at the coil, sometimes routed through the &amp;quot;Game Over&amp;quot; relay. A path to ground is switched on by a transistor which is enabled by upstream TTL logic. For the System 80 platform, this TTL logic is located on the MPU board. Signals are conveyed from the MPU to the driver board via the A1J4-to-A3J1 wire harness. These signals directly switch a path to ground on for one of the 9 designed-in solenoid circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted above, to accommodate game implementations needing more than 9 solenoids, Gottlieb repurposed some of the lamp driver circuits, driving 2N5875 (generally) transistors either screwed to the bottom of the playfield, or located on dedicated transistor boards. &lt;br /&gt;
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Solenoid problems can be divided into two simple categories, solenoids that do not engage and solenoids that are &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot;. Correcting these two situations is discussed below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Solenoid Doesn&#039;t Turn On=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, note that not all solenoids are always tested by the built in solenoid diagnostics. The first example of this is the coin counter solenoids (numbered 3, 4, and 7). To avoid artificially incrementing the coin drop counters, these coils are not pulsed. Other coils may be pulsed during lamp test. This is most often the case with System 80B games, using repurposed lamp driver circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
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:&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Problem Determination Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the game turned on and a game started, use a DMM to measure for coil power at the coil lug (generally either 24 or 38VDC). Power should be present at both lugs of the coil. If present on the coil lug attached to the banded side of the diode and not present at the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode, then the coil winding or it&#039;s attachment to one of the coil lugs is open.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Next, test paths to ground for the coil. Attach a wire with clip leads to game ground. Any green wire with yellow stripe will work fine. First, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;BRIEFLY&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; touch the other end of the wire to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;non-banded&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; side of the coil lug. The coil should pull in. If it does not, then either the coil winding is open or the coil wire is not securely attached to the coil lug. Next, identify the driver board transistor that switches ground for the solenoid in question. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;BRIEFLY&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; touch the other end of the wire to the tab (MPS-U45 or 2N6043) or case (2N3055) of that transistor. The solenoid should pull in. If it does, this proves the path from the coil to the transistor, but doesn&#039;t prove anything about the transistor. If it doesn&#039;t pull in, then there is a break in continuity between the transistor and the coil. Likely suspects are the connector pins, the IDC connection of the wire to the connector, and the actual wire itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At this point in the process, we know that the coil has power, and the path to ground via the transistor is valid. The next step is to test the actual transistor. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing an MPS-U45 (or NDS-U45) or an MPS-A13 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for one of the flanking legs.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between 1.2 and 1.4 should be displayed for the other flanking leg.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing a 2N6043 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for each flanking leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TO-3Case2N3055.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Emitter, Base, and Collector parts of a TO-3 form transistor, like the 2N3055. Note that the emitter and the base pins are closer to one end of the TO-3 case.]]&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing a 2N3055 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the metal casing of the transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the legs in turn.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for one of the legs.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement of &amp;quot;null&amp;quot; (no reading) should be displayed for the other leg.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on the &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; lead of the transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the other lead of the transistor (the &amp;quot;emitter&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the case of the transistor (the &amp;quot;collector&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol start =4&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Test the output signal from the MPU at the driver board. This test completes the test of the driver board circuitry. If this test doesn&#039;t identify a problem, then the problem must lie upstream with the inter-board harness or on the MPU board itself. With a logic probe, and the game in solenoid test, probe the following points for solenoids 1 through 9. 1 - non-banded side of CR6, 2 - R53, 3 - non-banded side of CR2, 4 - non-banded side of CR4, 5 - R56, 6 - R59, 7 - non-banded side of CR4, 8 non-banded side of CR1, 9 - non-banded side of CR5. With the game in Solenoid test, each solenoid should be pulsed in order, with the pulse easily detectable with a logic probe on the appropriate spot. Note that the coin counter solenoids will not be pulsed in test, and games that don&#039;t use every solenoid won&#039;t pulse unused solenoid circuits. Consult the manual for solenoid numbering for a particular game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Test the output signal of the TTL circuitry on the MPU. Solenoids 1 through 9 are all enabled via signals from Z29 and Z30 on the MPU board. Both ICs are 7416s. Z29 pins 2, 4, 10, and 12 drive solenoids 1 through 4 respectively. Z30 pins 2, 4, 6, 10 and 12 drive solenoids 5, 6, 8, 9, and 7 respectively (note the order is not strictly ascending). If the output signal on the MPU is present, but the signal is not present on the driver board, then the problem is probably the inter-board connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Solenoid Locked On=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A solenoid (or flasher) that is &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot; is caused by coil power having a continuous path to ground. Remember, coil power is always present at the coil when a game is started and the game over relay is powered (for System 80/80A/80B games). 99.9% of the time, this continuous path to ground is caused by a shorted drive transistor; either an under-playfield transistor, a transistor on a transistor board, or a transistor on the driver board itself.&lt;br /&gt;
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Generally, a locked on coil will heat up, burn through the insulation on the coil windings, and cause direct shorts between windings. This effectively reduces the length of the wire and hence, the resistance. Once the resistance is reduced to less than 2 ohms or so, the continuous current through the transistor and the coil cause both to be irreparably damaged. For this reason, if you find a transistor shorted, check the associated coil. Likewise, if you find a coil shorted, or with significantly reduced resistance (ohms), check the associated transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
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Some solenoid driver circuits, like solenoid 8 that uses a 2N3055, are &amp;quot;pre-driven&amp;quot; by an MPS-U45 (or NDS-U45). Be sure to test the associated pre-driver transistor too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Lamp problems are common with most any pinball machine, and Gottlieb® System 80/A/B games are no exception.&lt;br /&gt;
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For controlled and GI lamps, Gottlieb® System 80/A/B games use either a #44 or #47 lamp.  The choice of which lamp to use is the preference of the game owner.&lt;br /&gt;
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For games with flash lamps, a #67 bulb is used.&lt;br /&gt;
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It is highly recommended &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; to replace or remove lamps with the power to the game on.  There are primarily two reasons for this.&lt;br /&gt;
#Some lamp sockets must have their mounting brackets bent back to access the bulb for replacement.  In turn, the potential of inadvertently shorting one lamp socket to another is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
#Lamps are constructed of an equal balance of glass and conductive metal.  If a bulb slips out of one&#039;s grasp when trying to remove or install with the power on, there are many areas in the bottom of the cabinet, where the metal of the bulb can short across.  A short across other circuits could potentially lead to other unplanned or otherwise unnecessary repairs needed to perform.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So in short, change or remove bulbs with the game&#039;s power off, just to be safe.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All System 80 games have three separate lamp circuits, and some have a fourth.  The circuits are comprised of:&lt;br /&gt;
*General illumination for the backbox&lt;br /&gt;
*General illumination for the playfield&lt;br /&gt;
*Controlled lamps for primarily the playfield, although, there can be four controlled lamps located in the backbox (shoot again, high score game to date, tilt, and game over), depending on the era of the game.&lt;br /&gt;
*Auxiliary lamps used for effect, such as chaser lamps used around the backglass border of Mars God of War and Black Hole.  Auxiliary lamps are not used on all games.  Jump to the [[#Auxiliary_Lamp_Driver_Boards | Auxiliary Lamp Board section]] to see what games use auxiliary lamps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are several approaches used to determine the source of a lamp problem, and how it can be resolved.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
      &lt;br /&gt;
====Bad Bulbs====&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing when troubleshooting lamp problems, and this may seem blatantly obvious, but determine whether the lamp is good or not.  The bulk of all lamp problems are simply burned out light bulbs.  Always try a known good bulb as the solution first. Don&#039;t rely on the bulb being brand new either.  The ratio of brand new, bad bulbs is slim, but there is that chance a new bulb is not good.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Dying battery.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Making certain an old 9v battery is putting out an acceptable lower voltage]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Testing bulb.JPG|thumb|right|200px|Testing a 6v bulb with a dying 9v battery]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The bulbs used in a System 80/A/B game are powered by ~6 volts, (the exception is the bulbs powered for the lower [[#Replacing_Black_Hole_Lower_Playfield_Illumination_Lamps_with_.2344_Lamps | playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House]]).  A great way to quickly test a bulb is to use a dying 9v battery.  Don&#039;t use a fresh 9v battery, or you will shorten the life of the bulb.  Find a battery that is roughly putting out 7v - 8.25v.  An old battery from a smoke detector works pretty well.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Place the tip of the bulb on one of the battery terminals, and cock the outer metal casing of the bulb to touch the other terminal.  Orientation of the bulb with regards to the positive and negative terminals does not make a difference in this case.  Do not hold the bulb across the battery terminals for very long.  Just long enough to determine if the bulb&#039;s filament is lighting or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may also use a known working socket to test bulbs in...but that requires the game to be on while testing...which always presents some risk and is not recommended.  However, if there is no other option but to use a known good socket for testing bulbs, the preferred method is to use a socket located in the backbox lamp insert panel.  This unfortunately does not pertain to 65% of the System 80B games, because a fluorescent lamp was used for backbox illumination for them.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Games that have not been played in a long time develop a film of corrosion between the lamp &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; and the lamp socket which prevents conductivity. Simply removing the lamp and scratching the nipple with something abrasive (like rubbing it on the lockdown bar receiver) may fix many &amp;quot;lamp out&amp;quot; problems. In some cases, a light socket cleaning stick (available from the Pinball Resource [http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html here]) may be useful for cleaning the lamp socket. Gottlieb® lamp sockets are comparatively beefy and do not fail often.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Power Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
Next, make certain there is power at the lamp socket.  The game will have to be turned on for the following procedures.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====General Illumination Lamp Power Issues=====&lt;br /&gt;
GI lamps are powered by ~6VAC.  When testing a GI lamp socket for power, each lead of the DMM (now set in AC mode) will be placed on the two leads of the lamp socket.  If there isn&#039;t power at the lamp socket, suspect a bad fuse first.  Keep in mind that the playfield GI and backbox GI for System 80, 80A, and a few 80B games (the first 3 80B games and the last 2), have two separate fuses located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet.  These are typically higher amperage rated fast-blo fuses. The backbox GI on a System 80 game is always on when the game is turned on.  If the backbox GI fuse is good, and no backbox lights are lit, the inline connection which feeds the GI could possibly be bad.  Unfortunately, this connection is not standard from game to game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80TiltRelayAnnotated.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Gottlieb® System 80 Tilt Relay with GI Lamps/Tilt Lamp Make-Break Switch Highlighted. This tilt relay is from a Gottlieb® Spiderman]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The playfield GI is always powered on too, except when the game is in tilt mode.  If the game was not tilted and /or the tilt switches are not stuck closed, check the switch stack on the tilt relay.  These switches can sometimes get bent or misaligned.  If the playfield GI fuse is good and the tilt relay switches are good, the inline connections may be suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the fuse to a particular GI circuit is bad, and continues to blow every time a new fuse is installed, a short is probably causing the issue. A shorted lamp GI circuit is probably the worst and most difficult lamp related issue to resolve.  In most cases, the GI power lines are uninsulated wiring, which make them susceptible to shorted circuits.  First, determine if the GI short originates on the backbox lamp insert or on the playfield.  GI shorts on the playfield are typically more common than backbox lamp insert shorts.  Pop bumper lamps are generally not CPU controlled, and are included in the playfield GI string (some System 80B games are the exception, [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1975 RoboWar] being an example).  Also, depending on the game, star rollover lamps and kickout hole lamps are sometimes part of the playfield GI circuit.  Consult the game manual for these particulars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although it can be a pain and time consuming, the best approach is to remove all of the bulbs in the associated shorted GI string.  In removing all of the bulbs, we are trying to isolate whether the problem is a bad, defective bulb, or one of the GI power lines is shorting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Controlled Lamp Power Issues===== &lt;br /&gt;
Controlled lamps are powered by ~6VDC.  When testing a controlled lamp socket, the red lead of the DMM (now set in DC mode) will be placed on the lamp socket mounting bracket.  The bare wire soldered to the lamp socket&#039;s mounting bracket is the power bus not the ground bus, so be careful.  The black lead of the DMM will be placed on ground. If working under the playfield, the ground plate in the bottom of the cabinet is a good place to connect to ground.  If working in the backbox, find where one of the green wires with a yellow trace is screwed to the metalwork, and place the lead on it.  Depending on the game, System 80 side rails, lockdown bar assemblies, and other associated trim metalwork, except the coin door, were not grounded from the factory like Bally, Williams, and Stern.  Therefore, using any of these as a ground reference is not recommended.  Gottlieb® did start grounding the metalwork at the start of the System 80A platform.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there isn&#039;t any power at the lamp socket, suspect a bad fuse first.  The controlled lamp circuit has a separate fuse on the transformer board, and is normally a 5 amp slo-blo fuse.  If the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_fuses fuse tests fine], there is a separate set of switch leaves on the tilt relay, which pass the controlled lamp power to the playfield lamps.  Inspect and adjust these switches if necessary. If the controlled lamp fuse and the switches on the tilt relay both test good, there may be an issue with the source power connection to the rectified DC circuit on the game transformer board. Unfortunately, System 80/80A/80B used different connector designations for controlled lamp source power for different games. Consult the game manual / schematics to find the source of 6VDC on the transformer board power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the fuse for the controlled lamps is bad, and continues to blow after a new fuse is installed, suspect a bad controlled lamp bridge rectifier.  The lamp bridge rectifier is located on the transformer board.  Please see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier Testing a Bridge Rectifier] portion of the PinWiki guides. Before testing the bridge rectifier, try to isolate it as much as possible.  By isolating it, this will minimize the possibly skewed readings caused by attached devices (lamps and the power transformer).  Two key things to do would be to remove the lines which connect the bridge to the playfield and backbox lights, and remove the controlled lamp fuse. Keep in mind that a bridge rectifier can fail in such a way where it may not blow the controlled lamp fuse.  Although, a failed bridge blowing a fuse is a tad more common than not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of the above tests good, there may be a short on the controlled lamp bus line.  This is not a very common occurrence, but it can happen.  Inspect the underside of the playfield for any wires or brackets touching the controlled lamp bus line, which shouldn&#039;t be touching.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bad Lamp Sockets====&lt;br /&gt;
Third, determine if the lamp socket is good.  Some games have been through the wringer, and the sockets didn&#039;t hold up too well due to abuse, a damp environment, or other various reasons.  Start by turning the &#039;&#039;&#039;power to the game off&#039;&#039;&#039;.  If the socket has some corrosion, try using a lamp socket cleaning tool first.  If a lamp socket cleaning tool is not available, a small wire brush used for cleaning copper fittings, a rolled up piece of 220 grit sandpaper, or a Dremel tool with a small wire brush attachment can all be used.  After the socket has been cleaned, place the bulb in the socket for the following procedures.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If testing a &#039;&#039;&#039;GI lamp&#039;&#039;&#039; socket, use the dying 9v battery trick again. Remove the fuse of the particular GI circuit which the lamp socket being tested is located.  Connect the terminals of the 9v battery to the bulb socket with alligator clip leads.  Be careful not to short the alligator clips to each other at the battery&#039;s terminals.  Equally be very careful not to short the clip leads to an adjacent switch on the pinball machine, or anything else for that matter.   One clip will connect to one side of the socket, and the other lead will go to the other side of the socket.  &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT ALLOW THE BATTERY TO STAY CONNECTED VERY LONG&#039;&#039;&#039;.  Since this is a GI lamp circuit, other lamps in the string will be powered by the battery.  If the battery is connected to the string for too long, the battery will start to get hot.  The battery does not have enough power to light a string of bulbs for very long.  The lamp may only glow dimly, but that is enough to determine if the socket is good or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If testing a &#039;&#039;&#039;controlled lamp&#039;&#039;&#039; socket, remove all of the connector housings from the bottom of the driver board first (A3-J2/J3/J4).  Then remove the fuse for the controlled lamp circuit.  Clip one lead of the battery to the lamp socket mounting bracket and the other to the solder tab.  The orientation of the negative and positive leads of the battery terminals makes no difference.  Again, keep the battery connected just long enough to see if the lamp lights to determine whether the lamp socket is good or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp(s) Will Not Turn On=====&lt;br /&gt;
So, the bulb is good; the socket is good; there&#039;s power at the socket; and the lamp still won&#039;t light.  Well, this occurrence can only really happen if there is a controlled lamp involved.  If all three of the above things apply, it can only mean one thing - the bulb is not getting properly grounded, and will not turn on.  The source of this problem may be due to several different issues.  But, it is best to start at the bulb socket, and work backward towards the CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Determine if the connector and wiring from the output of the driver board to the lamp socket is good.  While the wires are usually solid, the single sided edge connectors are a frequent cause for loss of conductivity. Simply &amp;quot;buzzing&amp;quot; the connection from the lamp socket back to and onto the driver board may uncover the issue.  With the power off, check the continuity between the solder tab of the lamp socket and the collector (right leg) of the associated lamp transistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is continuity, it’s time to test the transistor. Transistors fail &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; (lamp never lights) and &amp;quot;shorted&amp;quot; (lamp is constantly on). A simple comparison of &amp;quot;diode check&amp;quot; readings between &amp;quot;same type&amp;quot; transistors on the driver board can identify failed transistors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing an &#039;&#039;&#039;MPS-A13&#039;&#039;&#039; transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to diode test&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;red&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead of your DMM on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing an &#039;&#039;&#039;MPS-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; transistor (or &#039;&#039;&#039;NDS-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;CEN-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; which are equivalents).&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to diode test&lt;br /&gt;
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;red&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead of your DMM on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingMPS-U45WithMPS-A13.jpg|200px|left|thumb|An NDS-U45 replaced by the less expensive MPS-A13. This replacement is advised ONLY if the transistor drives a single lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80/80A/80B architecture does not utilize a lamp matrix. Controlled lamps are driven by individual transistors on the driver board, exactly like Gottlieb® System 1 games and Bally/Stern 6800 games. Driver board operation is pretty simple. The CPU places a signal on Logical Device lines 1 through 4 (LD1...LD4) and &amp;quot;strobes&amp;quot; the appropriate 74175 device select pin to latch the LDx values into the 74175 Quad FlipFlop&#039;s outputs. These outputs then drive the associated transistor(s) on, providing a path to ground for the lamp. That&#039;s all there is to it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transistors on the driver board are a mix of 2N6043s, MPS-U45s (or NDS-U45s), 2N3055s, and MPS-A13s. 2N6043s drive coils. Generally, the MPS-U45 transistors drive coils, pre-drive coils via remote mounted transistors and 2N3055s, or drive more than one lamp. The 2N3055s drive coils (in some cases, not all 3 of these are used in a game). The MPS-A13s generally drive a single lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MPS-A13 transistors are still widely available and cheap. MPS-U45s are obsolete but may be replaced with CEN-U45 transistors [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=cen-u45&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= available from Great Plains Electronics] and Mouser.  A much cheaper MPS-A13 may sometimes be substituted for the less common and more expensive MPS-U45, as shown in the pic at left for Q22. Although this will work, you must ensure that the transistor is driving only a single lamp. This obviously limits the &amp;quot;portability&amp;quot; of the driver board. If Q22 were used to switch anything other than a single lamp on, it will be destroyed. Substitute with caution. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2N6043 transistors used on the driver board are still available but becoming pricey. 2N6043s can be replaced by a TIP-102.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; A nice convention Gottlieb® used with System 80 games is that lamp &amp;quot;n&amp;quot; is driven by transistor &amp;quot;n+1&amp;quot; on the driver board. This is always true.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the transistor tests fine, a gate on the 74175 may be bad, which is rare but does happen. Use a logic probe on the input and output of the associated lamp gate to check definitively.  Again, comparing the signal between different drive pins can help identify a failed driver circuit. 74175s can easily and reliably be tested using the procedure in the &amp;quot;General for all games&amp;quot; section, [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit here].  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If more than one controlled lamp is not lighting, check the game’s manual / schematics to see if the bulbs are related in some way. &lt;br /&gt;
*When four lamps are not lighting, it may appear that the 74175 which controls the lamp transistors is at fault. This can happen, but the more commonly related issue is that the device select signal for a particular 74175 is lost between the CPU and driver board.  This can be due to a bad connection at A1J4 or A3J1.  See the chart below for the lamp device select signal path. &lt;br /&gt;
*When a whole group of lamps fail to light, review the schematics to see if the lamp transistors share a common ground path. Again, poor connections at the driver board, or the path to ground (generally green with yellow tracer or solid white wire) on the bottom board ground strap may be the root cause.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the connections, associated 74175, and lamp transistors are all correct, the circuitry on the CPU board is probably at fault.  Again, using a logic probe to determine which component on the CPU board has failed is the best course of action.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Device Select&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;CPU Connector&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Driver Input&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Driver Quad Flip-Flop (74175)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Transistor #s&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Lamp #s&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS1 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-C&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-C&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q1-Q4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Game Over relay, Tilt relay, coin lockout, L3&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS2 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q5-Q8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L4-L7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS3 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-E&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-E&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q9-Q12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L8, sound 16, L10, L11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS4 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-D&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-D&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q13-Q16&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L12-L15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS5 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-H&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-H&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q17-Q20&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L16-L19&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS6 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-F&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-F&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q21-Q24&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L20-L23&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS7 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-K&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-K&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q33-Q36&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L24-L27&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS8 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-J&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-J&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q37-Q40&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L28-L31&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS9 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-M&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-M&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L32-L35&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS10 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-L&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-L&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L36-L39&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS11 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-N&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-N&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L40-L43&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS12 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-P&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-P&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z12*&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;Q45-Q48 &amp;amp; Q49-Q52&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L44-L47 &amp;amp; L48-L51 (inverse of L44-L47)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;*Z12 not only outputs four lamp signals like all the other 11 74175s, but it also outputs four inverted lamp signals.  These signals are typically used for lamps located on opposite sides of the playfield which alternate on / off between each other.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp(s) Will Not Turn Off=====&lt;br /&gt;
If a single lamp is involved, or only a handful of lamps with different lamp device select signals, suspect the lamps&#039; associated drive transistors.  If a group of four lamps will not turn off, and they are all controlled by the same 74175, suspect the associated 74175 or the device select for that 74175 (&amp;quot;DS&amp;quot; on the schematics). If numerous groups of four lamps will not turn off, suspect the associated 7404 on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
*Z17 for DS1-DS5 device select signals or,&lt;br /&gt;
*Z24 for DS6-DS11 device select signals or,&lt;br /&gt;
*Z26 for DS12-DS16 device select signals.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the lamps involved originate from more than one group of device select signals, suspect the 74154 at Z25 or, backing up one more step, the 6532 RIOT at U5.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamps===&lt;br /&gt;
Flash lamps are #67 powered by the 24VDC solenoid bus.  They are controlled like any of the coils that have a under-playfield transistor.  To step down 24V to a more lamp-friendly 13V, the power is routed through a single 4 ohm 7 watt resistor for powering paired flash lamps wired in parallel.  An 8 ohm 5 watt resistor is used for powering single flash lamps. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On early 80B games, the power resistors are mounted to a small bakelite board under the playfield (up to 4), and the transistors are mounted to a bracket (up to 6).  On later games, starting with Arena, new PCBs were introduced that had the transistor, power resistor, and 4.7K pullup resistor all on the same board (up to 3).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If lamps are locked on, or won&#039;t work, the remote mounted transistors associated with them have failed.  Generally, the pre-drive transistor on the driver board has also failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Under-playfield flash lamp transistors are 2N5879s or MJ2955s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Aux Board Headers.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Reflowed Header Pins on Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For issues with lamps controlled by the auxiliary lamp driver board, follow the troubleshooting section for controlled lamps [[Gottlieb_System_80#Controlled_Lamp_Issues | above]].  Additionally, make certain that +5vdc and ground are present on the auxiliary driver board.  If either are missing, the potential for cracked header connections is possible.  Remove the existing solder from the header connections, and resolder the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Unconventional Lamps====&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games added quite a few special lighting effects.  Gottlieb® never used software when hardware would do.  This is probably harkens back to their electromechanical days.  So, there are usually some creative, different ways used to control lamps.  For instance:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Monte Carlo and Spring Break have Auxiliary Lamp Driver boards where power to a bunch of #44 lamps is switched by a relay.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Genesis drives #67 lamps with an auxiliary power board.  Power to this board is controlled via a relay that turns itself to activate the &amp;quot;reveal&amp;quot;; this relay is activated by a lamp driver, but the relay will keep itself on until one revolution of the reveal gimmick is done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Spring Break has eight #44 lamps controlled by one relay; the relay is controlled with a lamp driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Diagnosing these is generally the same as other lamps, but first, understand the peculiar arrangement for the game in question.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Switch Matrix Operation ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb System 80 switch matrix is implemented via the 6532 RIOT (RAM, I/O, Timer) at U4, strobe ICs at Z11 and Z12 (7404), return ICs at Z13 and Z14 (7400), and DIP switch &amp;quot;read enables&amp;quot; at Z15. The switch matrix simply provides a TTL &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; pulse on a single switch matrix column, then listens for a &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; return on the switch rows. Closed switches complete the circuit and enable a switch matrix return. Switch returns are processed then the next column is strobed. The game software &amp;quot;debounces&amp;quot; all switches to accommodate less than electrically and mechanically perfect switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Common Switch Matrix Faults ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isolating Switch Problems to the MPU or the Game Wiring =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since Gottlieb uniquely used edge connectors instead of more common header pins, isolating switch matrix issues to either the MPU or to the game wiring is not quite as easy. However, &amp;quot;jumping&amp;quot; from a switch column to a switch row is possible using the same technique. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into switch test&lt;br /&gt;
*Using a short length of wire, short each column drive to each row return, one at a time&lt;br /&gt;
*A single switch closure should be shown as each connection is made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a single switch closure is shown for each and every connection made, then the MPU circuitry is probably undamaged, and the playfield wiring, switches, and diodes should be examined. If a switch closure isn&#039;t registered, or more than one switch closure is reported, then the MPU circuitry is damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== MPU Switch Matrix Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Blown Switch Matrix ICs ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80SwitchMatrixICs.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Identifying the System 80 MPU switch matrix ICs. Z15 is just below Z11/Z12.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80MPUBlownZ13.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Diode testing Z13 uncovers a shorted IC caused by shorting HV to the switch matrix wiring.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The most prevalent reason for switch matrix failures is shorting high voltage (i.e. coil voltage) to the switch matrix. As always, it&#039;s inadvisable to work on your game with the power on. Sometimes, &amp;quot;fish paper&amp;quot; designed to isolate switch blades from higher voltage conductors becomes displaced, shorting high voltage to the switch matrix, and damaging some/all of the switch matrix ICs. An example of such a switch is the kicking target under the upper playfield in Haunted House.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A quick check of Z11 through Z15 using the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit diode test] will reveal failed ICs easily. An example is pictured at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this same diode test on U4, comparing the results to U5 and U6, may help to identify a failed RIOT.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Alkaline Damaged Connectors ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Playfield switch wiring is connected to MPU edge connector J6, which is sometimes directly below, but at the very least in close proximity, of the OEM NiCad battery. These batteries frequently leak their corrosive contents onto the board, affecting nearby connectors, including the switch matrix connectors at J6 (playfield) and J5 (cabinet). Close examination of the friction pins in the connector as well as the copper traces at the edge connector may reveal alkaline corrosion impacting proper switch matrix operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Playfield Switch Matrix Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the switch matrix issue has been isolated to the playfield, follow the tips listed in the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#The_Switch_Matrix Switch Matrix Diagnosis] section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One additional item to note is that Gottlieb did not attach isolation diodes directly to switches. Instead, isolation diodes are collected on &amp;quot;diode boards&amp;quot; which are screwed to the playfield underside or the cabinet bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
The blue Futaba display glasses used by Gottlieb® System 1 and 80 machines are a fairly reliable, long-lasting display.  Although, they can and do still fail.  It&#039;s just a matter of diagnosing the symptoms of a failed display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Display problems can primarily be classified into the following categories:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Power problems&lt;br /&gt;
#Display glass failure&lt;br /&gt;
#Data problems&lt;br /&gt;
#Tired displays&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 displays.png‎|thumb|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A displays.png‎|thumb|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Power Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before even attempting to work on System 80/80A/80B displays, there are two caveats to heed.  First and foremost, the displays function due to the necessity of several voltages, including high voltage.  &#039;&#039;&#039;IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON HIGH VOLTAGE CIRCUITS, THEN DO NOT WORK ON THESE DISPLAYS!&#039;&#039;&#039;  High voltage can hurt or even kill you.  If you don&#039;t feel comfortable working around this type of scenario, then hire a professional to do the work.  Secondly, any time a display connector needs to be disconnected, &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT REMOVE ANY DISPLAY RELATED CONNECTOR WITH THE POWER ON!&#039;&#039;&#039;  This goes for the connectors located directly at the display, connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the CPU board, A2J3 on the power supply board, and A7J3 / A7P3 (early System 80 up to Mars God of War), A10J1 / A10P1 (when used), A12J4 / A12P4 (Black Hole and after), or A10J7 / A10P7 (when used) from the transformer.  Removing connectors with the power on can damage the display, the CPU board, and / or you.  Sorry to &amp;quot;yell&amp;quot;, but it is extremely important to stress the above two statements.  Now that this is out of the way, let&#039;s move on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As stated above, the displays need several sources of voltage to function properly. The display voltages used are broken down by the type of display: +60VDC and 5VAC with a positive 8VDC offset are used for the 6-digit displays; +42VDC, +5VDC logic (for the 7432 chip - Z1), and 3VAC with a positive 4VDC offset are used for the 4-digit status display. When using a 6 digit display with DI513 Dionics chips, +5VDC is necessary for RP1 and RP2, both 8.2K resistor networks. Likewise, 7 digit displays also have a 7432 chip on them, and +5VDC is needed for them too. If any of the above voltages are missing, the display will never light.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Prior to plugging in and turning the game on for the very first time, it is a good practice to check all of the fuse values located on the transformer board first. There is a 1/4 amp slo-blo fuse used for the display voltage, which is located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet.  With the game unplugged from the wall outlet, remove the fuse from its fuse holder.  When checking fuses, never &amp;quot;eyeball&amp;quot; a fuse.  Your eyes may tell you that the fuse is good, but your eyes can fool you.  Use a digital multi-meter (DMM) or a continuity tester to check fuses. Put each lead of DMM on opposite ends of the fuse.  A tone should be heard.  If not, the fuse is bad, and should be replaced with the same value.  Fuses are used to protect equipment, the surroundings, and you.  Installing fuse values with higher ratings is very dangerous. &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT USE A FUSE RATED AT A HIGHER RECOMMENDED VALUE!&#039;&#039;&#039;  If the existing fuse is blown, it may not necessarily mean there is a problem.  Fuses do get stressed, and sometimes just fail.  However, there is more than likely a problem somewhere in the display power train.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game still unplugged, the next course of action is to place connector A2J1 on the power supply.  A2P1 is the bottom connection on the power supply, and receives all voltages directly from the transformers and a single ground from the ground strip.  Once A2J1 is connected, remove any other connections from the power supply (A2J2 and A2J3).  All voltages should be tested before any boards or displays are connected to them.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_psu_A2J3_highli.JPG|left|thumb|200px|System 1 Power Supply with A2J3 highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At this point, plug the game in, and turn it on.  Using a DMM or volt meter, check all of the voltages at A2P3.  For the +60VDC (A2P3-1) and +42VDC (A2P3-3), any ground connection can be used as a reference. The +42VDC is derived from the +60VDC.  If there is +60VDC, but not +42VDC, The 18v CR6 zener diode or the R5 resistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the two high voltages test all right, it&#039;s time to check the offset voltages.  The offset voltages are +5VDC (A2P1-6) and +8VDC (A2P1-9).  Use any ground connection as a ground reference to test these voltages.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If displays are not lighting, but either the +42VDC is present on the display (status display) or the +60VDC is present on the 6 digit or 7 digit displays, check for the presence of AC voltage used to power the display filament.  Do not use ground as a reference when measuring these voltages, as they are AC.  Measurements must be taken from the send and return lines.  If the AC voltage is missing, check the in-line connection at A7J3 / A7P3 (early System 80 up to Mars God of War) or A12J4 / A12P4 (Black Hole and after).  Also, some games have more connectors which pass the AC voltages.  These additional connectors are A10J7 / A10P7 or A10J1 / A10P1. Check the voltages on the input and output of the connector to see if fatigued connectors are the source of the voltage loss.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all the display voltages are satisfactory, it is time to move onto the next step of visually inspecting the display boards for obvious defects.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====What is the DC Offset Voltage?=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ACSineWave.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Representation of AC voltage with and without a DC offset component. Note the red sine wave is shifted &amp;quot;up&amp;quot; by the DC component.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DCOffsetClip.jpg|right|thumb|200px|A snippet from a typical System 80 schematic showing &amp;quot;DC offset&amp;quot; voltages connected to the center tap of the transformer secondary where AC filament voltages originate.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Futaba displays as used in Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games require AC power that is &amp;quot;offset&amp;quot; by a specific DC voltage; 8VDC for the 6/7 digit displays, 5VDC for the 4-digit credit/match display. The DC component of the AC voltage raises the AC sine wave by that DC voltage. If the offset voltage is missing, inconsistent or wavy displays will result.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Glass Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Good display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with a good display glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NippleGuard.jpg|200px|thumb|right|A cheap and easy way to protect your nipples]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The simplest and easiest problem to identify is display glass failure.  All of the 6 digit displays used by Gottlieb® System 80, and 7 digit displays used by System 80A games will have a black &amp;quot;blotch&amp;quot;, for lack of a better term, in the upper left and lower right corner of the glass.  The 4-digit status display typically has only one black blotch.  The evidence of a black blotch or blotches is good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bad sys1 display1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with Broken Nipple on Back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
However, if there is a muted white blotch visible at the corners of the display, it means the display&#039;s &amp;quot;vacuum&amp;quot; has been compromised, either due to a cracked glass or broken nipple. If this is the case, the display glass can not be repaired and is useless.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A simple, cheap, and effective way to &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;protect the glass nipple&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; is to cut a ring of hose (garden hose was used in the picture at right), place it around the nipple, and then fill the ring with silicon caulk (preferred) or hot glue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Broken top filament1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with Broken Top Filament. Note that this is the Dionics chipset version of the display.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The display filaments within the glass can also break.  The end result will be segments with missing sections or &amp;quot;hot spots&amp;quot; when the display is powered.  The &amp;quot;hot spots&amp;quot; are caused by the &amp;quot;dangling&amp;quot;, broken filament shorting to other good filaments.  If a display filament breaks, do not use the display as shorted displays can damage other game components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Example Display with Failed Filament&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilamentOFFAnnotated.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Another example of a broken filament. This one has broken and shorted to another part of the display.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilamentScoreOverall.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The same display, showing a dark line across the center where the filament has failed.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilament.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Closeup of same display.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Even though the glass itself is bad, the chips on the display board may still be good.  So don&#039;t necessarily discount the display as being all bad.  UDN6118A and 7432, (chip used on status display only), chips are getting more costly, and Dionics DI513s are very scarce.  Since the display board is single sided, removal of the chips is quite easy.  Plus, the display PCBs are no longer being made.  The display board and / or chips may come in handy some time in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====UDN6118 and Other Display Logic Chip Failures====&lt;br /&gt;
The majority of 4 and 6 digit displays utilize two UDN6118 &amp;quot;Vacuum Fluorescent Display Drivers&amp;quot;. These ICs do not fail often. However, when they do fail shorted, they can affect the performance of the rest of the display set.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingUDN6118AndUDN7180.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Test method for a UDN6118 or UDN7180 display driver. Colored dots represent DMM probe locations (red lead, black lead)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
UDN6118 driver ICs can be tested using a DMM. Click on the image at left for the procedure.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;A Blown UDN6118 Display Driver&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:UDN6118BlownTopSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Damage is hard to photograph, but the outline of the overheated chip core can be seen.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:UDN6118BlownBottomSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A much more visible image of the heat damage.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Credit Display Segment Locked On=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb4DigitGlassSegmentCLockedOn.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A 4 digit display with segment &amp;quot;c&amp;quot; locked on, caused by a failed 7432 on the board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Gottlieb 4 digit displays use two UDN6118s and a single 7432. The 7432 can fail in such a way as to cause segments to lock on, as shown in the picture at left showing segment &amp;quot;c&amp;quot; locked on. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Data Problems==== &lt;br /&gt;
When there are display issues, one first has to determine whether there is a problem with the display itself, the connectors involved, or the chips on the CPU board that control it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;NOTE: Do not connect or disconnect the display connectors or connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the MPU (right hand side) with the power on! Doing so WILL damage the MPU board display logic ICs.&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following applies to System 80 and 80A displays.  For information regarding the System 80B display board, scroll down to the end of this section.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebDisplaySegmentDigitOutAnnotated.jpg|340px|thumb|left|An excellent image to show both digit and segment problems. Note the red circles showing the same digit out on for players 1 and 3. Also note the yellow circles showing segment &amp;quot;g&amp;quot; out for players 1 and 2.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Issue Isolated to a Single Display&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem is only showing up one display, suspect that the connector at the display itself is problematic, or there is an issue on the display board.  Problems on the display board can consist of a bad solder joint, a broken display lead from the display glass, or faults with the driver chips on the board (Sprague UDN6118 or Dionics DI513, if an old System 1 display is used).  The exception is if only 4 displays and a status display are used, which is common to most System 80/80A games.  In this display configuration, if there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;segment issue&#039;&#039;&#039; with the status display, there may be an issue with the segment drive chip on the CPU board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80LockedHSegment.jpg|340px|thumb|left|An example of a display showing segment &amp;quot;h&amp;quot; locked on. The segment was locked on for both the player 3 and player 4 displays. This was caused by a failure of the 7404 at Z16. This picture was snapped right after pressing the diagnostic button on the coin door. The display should be blank.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Issue With Multiple Displays&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem shows up on two or more displays, suspect one of the two connectors on the CPU board (A1J2 or A1J3), one of the two connectors on the two displays (they are daisy-chained with an IDC connector), or the chips which control the display data on the CPU board.  If there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;digit issue&#039;&#039;&#039;, the issue will be present on &#039;&#039;&#039;player 1 and 3&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;player 2 and 4&#039;&#039;&#039; displays.  If there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;segment issue&#039;&#039;&#039;, the issue will be present on &#039;&#039;&#039;player 1 and 2&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;player 3 and 4&#039;&#039;&#039; displays, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;status display&#039;&#039;&#039;.  If more than 4 scoring displays are used, on games such as Pink Panther, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, etc., consult the game manual for display digit and segment mapping.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 displays.png‎|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A displays.png‎|550px|right|Gottlieb® System 80A Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The charts listed below, map out each signal to each specific display.  The first chart maps the display digit information, while the second and third charts map the display segment information.  This information only applies to games where 4 scoring displays and 1 status display are used, although digit group names have been added, if more displays are used.  All of the charts apply to System 80 and 80A, but not 80B.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Digit Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Digit Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Display(s)&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D16 (80A only) || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group F) || A1J3-16 || Z26-8 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D1 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-1 || Z17-4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D2 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-2 || Z17-6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D3 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-3 || Z17-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D4 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-4 || Z17-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D5 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-5 || Z17-8 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D6 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-6 || Z24-2 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D13 (80A only) || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group F) || A1J3-13 || Z26-4 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D7 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-7 || Z24-4 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D8 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-8 || Z24-6  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D9 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-9 || Z24-12 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D10 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-10 || Z24-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D11 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-11 || Z24-8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D12 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-12|| Z26-2 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D13 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-13 || Z26-4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D14 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-14 || Z26-6 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D15 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-15 || Z26-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D16 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-16 || Z26-8  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group A Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group A || A1J2-1 || Z19-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group A || A1J2-2 || Z19-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group A || A1J2-3 || Z19-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group A || A1J2-4 || Z19-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group A || A1J2-5 || Z19-9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group A || A1J2-6 || Z19-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group A || A1J2-7 || Z19-14&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group A || A1J2-8 || Z16-12 &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group B Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group B || A1J2-9 || Z21-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group B || A1J2-10 || Z21-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group B || A1J2-11 || Z21-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group B || A1J2-12 || Z21-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group B || A1J2-13 || Z21-9 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group B || A1J2-14 || Z21-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group B || A1J2-15 || Z21-14 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group B || A1J2-16 || Z16-10  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group C Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group C || A1J2-17 || Z23-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group C || A1J2-18 || Z23-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group C || A1J2-19 || Z23-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group C || A1J2-20 || Z23-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group C || A1J2-21 || Z23-9 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group C || A1J2-22 || Z23-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group C || A1J2-23 || Z23-14 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group C || A1J2-24 || Z17-2  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Display Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayDivotAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A System 80B Display edge connector. One data conductor to the display was not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; across the connection due to a corrosion &amp;quot;divot&amp;quot;. This caused the entire display to remain blank. Reflowing the edge connector solder corrected the issue. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebEdgeConnectorDivots.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Another System 80B Display edge connector, this one with corrosion marks on it. The corrosion also caused the entire display to remain blank. Reflowing the edge connector solder corrected the issue. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80Bs displays are completely different how the digits and segments are decoded and driven.  Unlike System 80 and 80A, where the decoder chips are located on the CPU board, the System 80B display has a single segment (U3) and two digit decoder chips (U1 &amp;amp; U2) located on the display board itself.  Unfortunately, both of these chips (10941 &amp;amp; 10939 respectively) were a product of Rockwell International, and are not that prevalent.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has been observed that if any of the display data signals are missing between the CPU board and the 7417 inverters on the display board, the two displays will not illuminate at all.  If voltages on the display board are within spec, it may be advantageous to check all of the data signal edge connector pins on the CPU board and the display board. If both the edge connector and the female connectors look good, use a logic probe to ensure signals are getting to the input side of both 7417 (or later 74LS367) inverters on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that the System 80B jumpers, that replace the 7448s at Z19 and Z21 on System 80 and 80A boards, can be a source of discontinuity due to cracked solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has been observed that some of the earlier System 80B games are more prone to the display randomly being blank upon turning on the machine. Rock and Raven are the most common with this issue, however, the first three 80Bs, Chicago Cubs, Tag Team, and Bounty Hunter, are susceptible too. The best recourse is to repin both A1-J2 and A4-J1 / 1A4-J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rejuvenating Tired Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System1-80DisplayBrightUp.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Rejuvenating tired System 1/80 displays]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 displays, especially those that haven&#039;t been turned on for a long time, sometimes fade. These displays can be rejuvenated by applying voltage to the outside pins of the display glass. Note that voltage should be applied to the display glass pins, NOT the card edge pins. This process &amp;quot;burns&amp;quot; the impurities that accumulate on the filaments off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture at left, general illumination power (7VAC) from the lamp insert panel is being used to rejuvenate a display.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. Turn the game off&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. Remove the connector from the display&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. Connect jumper clips from a voltage source to each of the outside pins of the display glass. Note that the lower the voltage applied, the longer the display can tolerate this &amp;quot;rejuvenation&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is why some techs choose to use the lower GI AC voltage for this purpose.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. Power the game on for 1 minute.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Disconnect the jumper wires and reconnect the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. Power on to test the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7. If the display still isn&#039;t bright enough, repeat this process for 1 minute each time, until the display is satisfactorily bright.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that if the display filaments, which run across the display horizontally begin to glow orange (or worse, white), too much voltage is being applied or the display has been connected too long. This risks burning one or more of the display filaments out and ruining the display. A cautious, 1 minute at a time, process is warranted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note also that one particular System 80 tech (&amp;quot;System 80, not just a job, it&#039;s an adventure&amp;quot;) suggests that merely leaving the game powered on for 24 hours will accomplish the same rejuvenation.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Does Not Light====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:gottlieb-display-broken-legs.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Broken legs on display glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
If the glass of a 6 or 7-digit display does not light, but there are no white spots in the corners (white spots indicate bad glass), the outer-most legs on the glass may be broken. A magnifying glass may be necessary to inspect the pins since the gap in the breaks may be extremely small. The outer-most legs are responsible for supplying power to the glass, which is why the glass would not light in this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These legs may be broken especially on displays that have a green or blue plastic filter covering them. These legs can get broken after someone presses down on the plastic cover of the display when pushing the display onto the PCB supports mounted on the light board in the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To repair, line up the two broken halves of the leg with needle-nose pliers, heat, and solder. If the solder isn&#039;t sticking, lightly sand back some of the black tarnish with fine sandpaper or a fiberglass eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 Display Test 19 Never Starts====&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games provide a display test (number 19). The test &amp;quot;walks&amp;quot; all digits, from 0 to 9, through all displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A failed 6532 RIOT at U5 can cause the game to appear dead, as if awaiting an input. The display test will never commence.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Individual 6-digit Display Interferes With Other Displays==== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, a particular display can interfere with the operation of other 6-digit/4-digit displays no matter which game or player position it is plugged into. These symptoms can include:&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing digits to go missing on other displays&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing certain digits to dim significantly on other displays&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing certain digits to display garbage or non-numbers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of these symptoms is a bad R1 resistor. When powered off, the resistor will give the correct reading. However, the resistor may fail when power is applied. The R1 resistor (10k ohm, 1/2 Watt, 5% resistor) may need to be replaced if the above symptoms are present.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Individual 7-digit Display Causes Other Displays To Go Blank====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, a particular display can interfere with the operation of the other 7-digit/4-digit displays no matter which game or player position it is plugged into. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a particular display causes all other displays to go blank, the likely cause is a failure of the Z2 6118P chip, which drives the digits of the display. This chip can be replaced with the more commonly found UDN6118A chip. Also keep in mind that it&#039;s possible the 7448 and the other 6118P controlling the segments could be damaged as well, so be prepared for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===All Other Display Issues (Not Caused by Displays)===&lt;br /&gt;
There are several issues which appear to be display related, however, they ultimately are not.  In these instances, the displays are used instead as a visual identifier of a particular issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Open Slam Switch==== &lt;br /&gt;
If after turning a System 80 game on, and the scoring displays turn on immediately without a 5 second delay, there is a problem.  However, if the displays are showing all of the outer segments (all segments necessary to display a zero) lit, and &amp;quot;strobing&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;rolling&amp;quot; rapidly as simulated in the image below, this isn&#039;t a display problem. The cause of this problem is an open slam switch on the coin door. To address this issue, see the PinWiki section [[#Slam_Switch_Modification | Slam Switch Modification]].&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb 6digit slam scaled.gif|500px|thumb|left|Simulation of displays indicating an open slam switch. Note the &amp;quot;rolling&amp;quot; perimeter display segments.]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====All Displays Dim or at Half Brightness====&lt;br /&gt;
This applies to System 80/80A games with 6 or 7 digit displays. If all the displays appear dim or at about half brightness, check the 60v test point on the power supply. If it reads about 30-35v, then the dim display issue is caused by the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the power supply, Q2 regulates the 60v, so if that component has failed, or if there is a problem with the solder joints or pads on the back of the board, this can result in half the voltage for the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Carefully inspect the back of the power supply for cracked solder joints or through-hole pads that have popped off the PCB. Because Q2 has a large/heavy heat sink, the component tends to move around lot, which may cause these issues. If nothing is apparent with a visual inspection, test for continuity between Q2&#039;s legs and the traces on the PCB .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:gottlieb-sys80-psu-q2-pad-problem.jpg|thumb|250px|left|The pad for the center leg of Q2 has separated from the PCB and will need to be repaired]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Before doing any kind of work, or blaming the sound board for not putting out sound, review the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting section] first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In particular for System 80 games, ensure that the dip switches that enable sound are set correctly. And, ensure that the dip switch actually works. Games like Spiderman use one of the 32 MPU dip switches to enable background and scoring sounds. Games like Haunted House, Black Hole, etc use dipswitch 5 on the Sound and Speech board to enable background sound.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The Long and Winding Road of the Sound Signals====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound signals follow very roundabout path before reaching their destination on the sound board.  Sounds S1, S2, S4, and S8 are originated on the MPU board by RIOT U6.  These 4 sound signals then pass through a 7404 inverter (Z27), pass through a 7408 2 input AND (Z31), and exit the MPU board via the A1J4 connection (MPU / driver board interconnect harness).  The signals enter the driver board via A3J1, pass through another 7404 inverter (Z13), and exit the driver board via A3J5.  Finally, they enter the sound board via the only connection on the sound board, A6J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If any of the sound signals are lost, this potentially happens due to poor edge connections, however, 7404s are known to fail too.  The best way to check for discontinuity is to use a DMM or ohmmeter to check the path from the exiting chip to the chip it enters on the following board.  Another method for checking for signal loss is a logic probe.  This method is not as simple though, because some generations of System 80s do not have a sound test.  Therefore, waiting for a particular signal to trigger can be tricky.  The benefit of using a logic probe is to determine if a particular signal is entering and exiting a specific chip, and if the signal transforms (if it is supposed to) like intended (ie. the 7404 will invert the signal from high to low or low to high).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some sound boards use a fifth sound signal, known as S16.  S16 is actually driven by an MPS-A13 like any other single lamp drive. S16 can follow a very convoluted path too, depending on the particular game.  For example, Haunted House uses S16.  It originates on the MPU with all of the other lamp signals, and becomes lamp drive Q10 on the driver board.  It exits the driver board via A3J2, passes through a inline connector, A10J4, passes through another inline connector, A12P4, and finally reaches the sound board at A6J1.  That is a lot of mileage for just 1 little sound signal!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games, starting with Rock, which use the dual 6502 processor sound boards, use Q5 as sound signal S16.  Please be aware that the System 80B documentation does not always notate this information regarding S16!!!  In this case, S16 follows a much simpler path.  It exits the driver board via A3J2 and goes directly to the sound board at A6J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, if appears that certain sound signals are missing or the wrong sounds are triggered, suspect a bad connection first.  Then, suspect a bad 7404 within the sound signal path.  Then, check all other potential problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that the 7404 U7 located on early System 80 sound boards (sound only) do fail also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 Sounds Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound Board (Sounds only)]]&lt;br /&gt;
This board, first used in Panthera, is problematic to fix. The main issue is that the board uses the long since obsolete 6503 processor (think of it as a short 6502) and a &amp;quot;masked ROM/RIOT&amp;quot; 6530. The 6530 was specifically programmed for Gottlieb sound boards. They are therefore, impossible to replace unless you can scavenge a working one from another sound board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only replacement option at this time, other than sourcing a used board, is Pascal Janin&#039;s reproduction board. This board is a bit pricey but is engineered quite well. The board can be found here: [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php?lg=en http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php?lg=en].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GottliebSoundsOnlyBoardCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A leaky audio filter cap caused significant corrosion to several traces on this board.]][[Image:System80SoundsOnlyLeakyCap.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Audio filter cap removed, corrosion removed, traces tinned. The leaky cap can be seen in the top of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;This board operates on three different voltages: +5v, +12v, and -12v. The +5 volts comes in on J1 pin 5 from the machine&#039;s power supply board. The +12 volts comes in on J1 pin 1 from the machine&#039;s bottom panel. The -12 volts is generated on the sounds only board and it receives AC power input on J1 pins 3 and 4. You can measure the -12 volts by connecting your volt meter across zener diode CR5 (1N4742A).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The test button on this era sound board will only work if the two dipswitches are set in opposite positions on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted above, this board is tough to repair. If the 6530 is dead...you&#039;re SOL. A dead 6503 might be replaced. The other ICs on the board, like the LM380 amp and the 555 timer are still readily available. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A common issue with the board seems to be the leaky large capacitor on the board. Fortunately, this is easy to repair. Remove the old cap. Abate the corrosion as shown in the picture at right. Replace the cap. When this cap leaks, it can completely sever the sound signal path. Sounds might sound scratchy or incomplete too. The cap is easy to remove and replace. It&#039;s worth a shot.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Sound and Speech Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Different Revisions of the Sound and Speech Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=220px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Revisions of the Gottlieb Sound and Speech board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS Back B20887-1.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS Back B20887-2.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Front Added Resistors.JPG|thumb|left|200px|B-20887-3 Sound and Speech Board with Resistors Highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the third revision sound and speech board, the resistors which were added to the solder side of the -1 and -2 boards were now incorporated in the board design. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound and Speech Board Operation=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board represents the high point in the System 80 family as far as sound generation is concerned. By combining sound and voice circuitry, the board is flexible enough to be used in several different games, with different voice calls, all generated via the Votrax SC-01 speech synthesizer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board is itself a single board computer, and should be debugged similar to any non-working MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board interfaces with the System 80 MPU via a 6 bit (S1, S2, ..., S32) wide &amp;quot;data bus&amp;quot;. The 6 interface bits form a binary code which define specific sounds (or speech) to play. This enables 63 separate sounds to be played. Each communication between the MPU and the Sound and Speech board is &amp;quot;stand alone&amp;quot;. That is, the system does not make use of successive sound commands to mean different things as the Bally Squawk and Talk implementation does. In practice, since S32 is never used, a maximum of 31 unique sounds are commanded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Four of the bits in the interface are controlled (grounded) by circuitry on the MPU (starting at the U6 RIOT) and a &amp;quot;pass through&amp;quot; 7404 inverter on the driver board (Z13). The remaining two bits are implemented via &amp;quot;lamp drive&amp;quot; transistors (Q10 for S16) on the driver board, and comparator circuitry on the S&amp;amp;S board (U24).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are fielded by the S&amp;amp;S board&#039;s 6532 RIOT which generates an interrupt to the 6502 processor. The 6502 reads the sound number commanded from the 6532 as it services the interrupt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The S&amp;amp;S board&#039;s 6502&#039;s program code, as well as sound data, is stored in two 2716 EPROMs, PROM 1 and PROM 2.  These EPROMs are typically labeled at the factory with the model number of the game they are for, and the suffixes /S1 &amp;amp; /S2. For example &amp;quot;668/S1&amp;quot; is the label on one of the Black Hole sound ROMs. Although the board can be strapped for two 2732 EPROMs, in practice, this was never done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board can field and queue sound commands at the same time as it is driving the sound and speech circuitry lanes. The board will never interrupt or prematurely terminate a sound being played. The board will also never reorganize the queue of sounds to be played. Each sound to be played will be played until it&#039;s conclusion. The 6502 knows when &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; have completed playing since it is solely in control of the sound lane. The 6502 knows when &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; calls have completed processing by the SC-01 via a non-maskable interrupt sent via the SC-01&#039;s ~A/R signal to the 6502&#039;s NMI pin. Timing to sequence speech phonemes together rapidly is critical, hence the use of the non-maskable interrupt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6502 creates &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; via one circuitry lane. It creates &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; through a second, separate circuitry lane. At the end of each lane, just prior to input to the main LM379S amplifier, sound and speech is summed. The relative volume of each lane can be tuned via 10K trim pots at the top of the board, R15 and R16.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound Lane&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Simple sounds (not voice) are created by the 6502 reading data from the sound ROMs and latching it into two 74LS75 data latches. The 74LS75s latch the data when selected via a 74LS02 (NOR gate) at U10 which NORs the R/W signal along with a device select signal from the 74LS138 at U4. the device select signal selects U7 and U8 simultaneously to latch data bus signals DB0 - DB7 all at once.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two 74LS75s provide the data to a 1408 D-to-A (digital to analog) converter at U20. In this way, 511 different digital codes can be converted to analog levels by the 1408. The analog output of the 1408 can be attenuated via a 10K &amp;quot;variable resistor&amp;quot; at R13. The signal is then amplified and inverted by an LM741 analog inverter (U22). The analog signal is then fed to the LM379S for final amplification. Note that the 1408 DAC is obsolete, but may be replaced by the more available DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Speech Lane&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Speech is ultimately created by the Votrax SC-01 voice chip. The SC-01 accepts &amp;quot;phoneme&amp;quot; codes and renders the analog speech output to the LM379S for final amplification. The phoneme codes are placed on the 6502 data bus and pass through a 74LS05 &amp;quot;level shifter&amp;quot; and inverter at U13. The codes are accepted by the SC-01 on pins 9 through 14 when pin 7 is strobed (the phoneme code is latched on the rising edge of the strobe). The &amp;quot;pitch&amp;quot; of the SC-01 voice is controlled by I1/I2 (pins 3 and 2). Frequency and timing control is achieved via MCK and MCR (pins 15 and 16, which are tied together). Frequency and timing are controlled via nearly identical circuitry as is used in the &amp;quot;sound&amp;quot; lane. Frequency and timing are referred to in the schematics as the &amp;quot;Voice Clock&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Reset signal&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset circuit is pretty simple. A 47uf/50V cap at C3 charges when power is applied. Once charged, the originating 5VDC power is twice inverted and cleaned up via a Schmitt Trigger at U1, and finally presented to the ~RESET signal (pin 40) of the 6502.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test button&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The test button, located on the upper left side of the S&amp;amp;S board, grounds pin 17 of the 6532 RIOT. After reading the RIOT data, the 6502 process then plays the appropriate test sound, which varies by game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SC-01 pinout&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin Number(s)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal Name&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal Purpose&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;1 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Vdd&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Input Voltage&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;2-3 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;I1, I2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Instantaneous pitch adjustment. Will change pitch of phoneme being spoken.&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;7 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;S&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Strobe to indicate a phoneme code is ready&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;8 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;~A/R&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Acknowledge receipt of phoneme strobe, indicate completion of phoneme processing&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;9-14 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;P5-P0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Phoneme number select (from fixed phoneme table)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;15-16 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;MCK/MCR&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;External Clock Signal (probably used to alter phoneme pronunciation via varying the clock)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;20-22 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;CB, AF, AO&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Audio Output&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;18 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Ground&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sounds and Speech board DIP switch settings=====&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound and Speech board has a bank of DIP switches. For at least Black Hole, the function of these switches is as follows:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-1 - Used in self-test only&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-2 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-3/4 - Attract mode speech frequency&lt;br /&gt;
** OFF/OFF - disabled&lt;br /&gt;
** ON/OFF - attract mode speech every 10 seconds&lt;br /&gt;
** OFF/ON - attract mode speech every 2 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
** ON/ON - attract mode speech every 4 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-5 - ON = background sound enabled, OFF = background sound disabled&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-6 - ON = all speech enabled, OFF = all speech disabled&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-7 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-8 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound &amp;quot;Locks Up&amp;quot; after certain switch closures=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SC-01.jpg|thumb|200px|left|The long since obsolete, pricey, and hard to find SC-01 speech chip. This one is an SC-01-A, said to be a little beefier.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This problem may be caused by a malfunctioning or missing SC-01 (or SC-01-A) speech chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Games such as Black Hole, Mars God of War, and Volcano utilized the SC-01 phoneme speech chip. These games &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;require&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; a working SC-01 to be present, not only for the speech portions of the sound, but for the sound to not &amp;quot;lock up&amp;quot; after the first time that a speech call is made. The CPU relies on an interrupt from the 6532 RIOT to restart sound command processing. That interrupt originates from an &amp;quot;all done&amp;quot; signal from the SC-01 speech chip (shown as ~A/R in the schematics, SC-01 pin 8). If the RIOT never receives an &amp;quot;all done&amp;quot; signal (at PB7) then it will not interrupt the processor and no further speech or sound will be created.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is also possible that the 2N2222 at Q3 has failed, not allowing the interrupt signal to reach the RIOT. Q3 inverts the ~A/R signal and conveys it to the RIOT as A/~R and also to the MPU as a non-maskable interrupt (U3 6502, pin 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Game background sound continues after game over=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This has been noticed in &amp;quot;Mars, God of War&amp;quot; predominately, but other System 80 games that use the Speech and Sound board may exhibit similar symptoms.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of the problem is MPU DIP switch 25. The switch MUST be ON, as noted in the manual. Even if the switch appears to be &amp;quot;on&amp;quot;, buzz across the switch solder pads on the back side of the board to ensure that the switch has not failed. Gottlieb sometimes used &amp;quot;rocker&amp;quot; switches, which seem to have a high failure rate.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An &amp;quot;On Target&amp;quot; newsletter from June, 1981 discusses something similar to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound is &amp;quot;garbled&amp;quot; or phonemes appear jumbled=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;!--&lt;br /&gt;
While this problem is uncommon, it&#039;s quite maddening to track down. However, since the board architecture is split between a &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; lane and a &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; lane, at least the number of suspect components can be narrowed. In at least one instance, &amp;quot;garbled&amp;quot; sound was caused by a failed 74LS75 latch. Just after the game was turned on, sounds were normal. But, as components on the speech and sound board would &amp;quot;heat up&amp;quot;, speech became garbled, progressively becoming worse, until the speech was completely unintelligible, and then completely missing. The 74LS75 latches may be replaced by 7475s. --&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using the MA-483 Sound Amp Board on a Sound and Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback.JPG|130px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® MA-483 Piggyback Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS Power Mod.JPG||260px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® Sound and Speech Power Supply with components highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If using the MA-483 sound amp board on a Sound and Speech board, or if the sounds only System 80A sound board is going to be used, the factory Sound and Speech power supply cannot be used without modification.  The reason is because the original LM379S amp is powered by 30vdc, and the TDA2002 amp on the MA-483 only needs 16vdc.  If the TDA2002 was powered by 30vdc, it would be destroyed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The modification is quite simple, and is done by replacing only two components (R1 and CR1). R1 is 430 ohm 1/2 watt and CR1 is 1N4751A 30v 1 watt zener diode.  R1 should be replaced with a 1.5Kohm 1/2 watt resistor and CR1 should be replaced with 1N4746A 18V 1 watt zener diode.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing the Obsolete LM379S Amplifier with a Modern Amplifier=====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;This information originally published by J. &amp;quot;kirb&amp;quot; Kirby. Additional pictures and some editing provided by Chris Hibler. Used with permission.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Gottlieb System 80 Audio Amp Replacment...why?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80&amp;amp;a s&amp;amp;s.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board as used on Mars, God of War, Black Hole, Haunted House, Volcano, and some video games]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb® Sound and Speech board uses an LM379 or LM379s audio amp in the final amplification section. This amp became hard to find around 1983. Gottlieb® provided an alternative for this amp (see prior section) and discontinued using the Speech and Sound board further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Their solution was to buy a piggyback board from Gottlieb® that used an LM2002 or a TDA2002 amp. But the LM2002 or TDA2002 amps require 16VDC to operate (instead of the 30VDC used by the LM379). This necessitated a change to the sound board power supply. There were many components to replace or remove, not to mention that you would have to make the piggyback board yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SOLUTION? Find a newer amp that required fewer components. A replacment amp can be put together using only the following parts which can be easily sourced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*LM1875T Audio Amp&lt;br /&gt;
*14 pin DIP socket&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat sink&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat sink compound&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you&#039;ve sourced these parts, a replacement amp is easy to construct and only requires removal of the old LM379 amp and addition of one jumper (to provide 12VDC, covered later).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let&#039;s start with the basics. System 80 games used 4 different sound boards. This amp replacement applies only to the Sound and Speech board used in Mars: God of War, Black Hole (domestic version), Haunted House, Volcano, Devil&#039;s Dare, Caveman, Rocky, Q*bert&#039;s Quest, Super Orbit, Royal Flush Deluxe (early production), Amazon Hunt (early production), and video games like Q*bert.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;LM379 Audio Amp Testing&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;	&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First of all, is your amp really bad? Basic tests to identify a failed amp...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With the game on, turn the volume pot up as high as it will go. Do you hear a hum? This is normal and is an indicator that your amp is working.&lt;br /&gt;
*Check the voltages at the sound board. 30VDC is required to power the amp. Verify that this is working correctly or your amp won&#039;t work at all.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure the speakers are connected and working right. You can test speakers using a &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; size battery. Briefly connect the battery across the speaker and you should see the speaker&#039;s cone push out. Do this for only a second or two...speakers don&#039;t like DC voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure the volume adjustment pot is connected correctly and working properly. A dirty pot will make sounds junky, but they usually don&#039;t completely fail. You can &amp;quot;twizzle&amp;quot; the pot to remove oxidation that may have formed on the internal conductors.&lt;br /&gt;
*Headphones can be used to see if the sounds are getting to the amp. Connect one of the headphone conductors (the one closest to the headphone &amp;quot;handle&amp;quot;) to ground. Connect one of the other two headphone conductors (assuming stereo headphones) to the center leg of R15 or R16. You should be able to hear sounds that the board is making through the headphones. Your amp is probably bad if you can hear sounds at R15 or R16, but not through the speakers, assuming you&#039;ve tested the speaker to be good and you have 30VDC power at the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;LM379 Audio Amp Replacement Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mark the &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; of the heat sink so you can later determine orientation of the original amp should this be necessary. Pin 1 of the amp can&#039;t be identifed without removing the two screws that secure the finned heat sink to the chips integrated heat sink. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove the LM379 amp and heat sink assembly from the board. Desolder all 14 pins and pull the amp off the board. The LM379 heat sink may be soldered to the board so you&#039;ll need to remove that solder too. Be forewarned, the solder pads are delicate and easily damaged. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note how the LM379 is upside-down in relation to other chips on the board.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; This will be important later.&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Building the New Amp Assembly&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the new amp to the 14 pin DIP. Use the diagram below as a guide. The pinouts are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Amp Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Socket Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Purpose&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 1 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 9 || &amp;amp;nbsp;+ amp input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 2 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 8 || &amp;amp;nbsp;- amp input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 3 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 4 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 4 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 10 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Audio out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 5 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 1 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Vcc (+30VDC)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It will take some fancy bending to connect all of the amp legs in a way that they do not touch one another, but it can be done. It is important that the amp stands straight up and that the pins don&#039;t touch each other. See the diagram below for  better info. Don&#039;t worry about the 12VDC connection right now. We&#039;ll connect that later.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM379ReplacementNewAmpPinout.jpg‎|600px|center|Pinout schematic to attach the LM1875 amp to a 14 pin DIP socket]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;One Tech&#039;s Implementation (Heat Sink Added Later)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpFrontSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpRearSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Rear side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Attaching the heat sink&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, yes, you need a heat sink. Audio amps run hot. Without a heat sink, the amps life will be dramatically shortened.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mount the heat sink to the amp/socket assembly. You may have to modify your heat sink so that it doesn&#039;t contact anything but the LM1875 amp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Heat sink compound should be spread on any metal to metal surface that is to conduct heat. This will improve the heat sink&#039;s efficiency and is a must on this device to work right. Without the compound, the amp will overheat and shutdown. It may even be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=270px heights=270px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Kirb&#039;s original completed assembly&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpSideViewKirb.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Side view.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpFrontSideKirb.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front view.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Final Steps&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CompleteAssemblyInSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The completed assembly, mounted to the Sound and Speech Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the new amp assembly directly to the board. Normally you would use a socket, but that will  lead to audio problems. It is better just to solder it into the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ACHTUNG! Remember that pin 1 of the amp solder pads on the board is upside-down relative to every other IC on the board, and you need to install your new amp assembly with pin 1 &amp;quot;down&amp;quot;. Make sure this is done right. There is a 1 screened to the back of the board that should help you orient the assembly. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM379Replacement12VDCSource.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Connecting 12VDC to the amp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Now that the pins are soldered to the board, we have to connect 12VDC to pin 14 of the socket. This is easily found at the positive (+) side of C39. This 12VDC biases the +IN so that it won&#039;t saturate. Your amp will only work for about 30 seconds without this 12VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check all of your work one more time, then test the amp and see what you get. If you&#039;ve followed these steps correctly, your sound should be loud and clear!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Mapping =====&lt;br /&gt;
The interface between the driver board/MPU and the sound board is a simple bit map. An example bit map can be found on the [http://www.pinwiki.com//wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole Black Hole] specific page. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A Sound Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Cutting Out / No Sound=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback Back.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Piggyback Amplifier Board w/ Cracked Header Pins]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® had a tendency of using single-sided boards for their &amp;quot;piggy back&amp;quot; / daughter boards, and these boards are susceptible to cracked header pin solder joints.  The MA-483 amplifier board is no different.  If the sound appears to be cutting out or their are no sounds at all, the header joints on the MA-483 may have developed cracks.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before suspecting the daughter board header joints, review the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting] section located in the &amp;quot;General for all games&amp;quot; section. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A / 80B Sound with Piggyback Board====&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80A / 80B sound board is nearly the same as the first generation System 80 sound only sound board.  It utilizes a 2716 EPROM versus a masked ROM like the System 80 sound board.  This was potentially due to the Harris 7643 masked ROM being obsolete.  The 80A / 80B board does not use a test button.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the System 80 sounds only board, this board has 2 obsolete chips on it, the CPU (6503) and the RRIOT (6530).  On the plus side, these boards did not get destroyed nearly as much as the original System 80 sounds only boards (plugging the System 80 sounds only board into a System 1 game would destroy it in a very short time).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-766)====&lt;br /&gt;
This sound board has two independent 6502 CPUs.  One exclusively drives a DAC (digital-to-analog converter).  The other drives the speech chip, Orator, (not used for speech on this generation of sound board, but it is used to generate sounds), and two AY-3-8913 sound chips.  Each is pretty much independent, sharing essentially only the sound select lines, the reset signal, and the output section. The gates of one TTL chip are used by both 6502s to communicate between the subsystems via the NMI signal to each 6502 among other functions. The ROMs, CPUs, and accessory chips, are all localized to the particular subsystem other than the inter-processor communication just mentioned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the LED and test switch are only relevant for the CPU that operates the speech and synthesizer chips, not the chip connected directly to the DAC. With this in mind, it should be possible to troubleshoot this board using a divide-and-conquer approach.  For instance, if the LED isn&#039;t blinking in/off at about a 50% duty cycle, then the subsystem for the 6502 that controls the LED has to have a fault, but the other subsystem may be fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since this sound board is really just a more complex MPU board, or single board computer, the usual diagnostic steps are in order.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the ROM images are valid.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the reset signal begins low and then transitions to high after about 1/2 second.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the external clock signal is present at pin 37 of both 6502 processors.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the data lines on the 6502 (pins 33 through 26) are pulsing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the address lines on the 6502 (pins 9 through 20, 22 through 25) are pulsing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the external clocks are pulsing at pins 3 and 39 of the 6502 processors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-886)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA-886.jpg|200px|right|thumb|A repaired MA-886 sound board. Resistors R15, R16, R14, and R13 (top to bottom) are shown with blue Sharpie marks on their left ends, the end to probe when testing the sound channel. The other two components in the rectangle are high frequency ceramic filter capacitors which rarely fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 is generally the same board as the MA-766 sound board.  The main differences are that the MA-886 uses .156&amp;quot; header pins instead of edge connections, the Orator chip was no longer used, and SW1 was abandoned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Troubleshooting this board is nearly identical to the steps noted above for the MA-766 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One useful aspect of the board is that 4 channels of sound are summed by the LM324 at B1 before final amplification offboard. &lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 1 is the output from the 7528 DAC at E2. An example of the sounds that this channel makes is the &amp;quot;Destroy Alpha One&amp;quot; and other voices used in Robowar. This channel also contributes the &amp;quot;skittering&amp;quot; sound when the ball pass the rollunder on the ramp wireform and the &amp;quot;energy pulse&amp;quot; sound when the ball rolls over any of the top 4 lane rollovers. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R16&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 2 is the output from the AY-3-8913 (if present) at H4. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R14&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 3 is the output from the AY-3-8913 (if present) at K4. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R13&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 4 is the output from the MF-4 at E5. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R15&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Placing an oscilloscope probe on the end of these resistors attached to the sound generating circuitry for that channel should show a purposeful signal (versus noise). If not, it&#039;s a good bet that one of the devices in that sound channel has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Several games (Bone Busters, Hoops, Bell Ringer, Silver Slugger, Car Hop, Deadly Weapon, Title Fight, and Vegas to name a few) use the MA-866 sound board paired with the MA-1294 auxiliary sound board. The two boards are connected via a special ribbon cable with dip &amp;quot;pins&amp;quot; on each end. WARNING: remove these connectors ONLY by sliding a flat blade screwdriver under it. Trying to &amp;quot;pull&amp;quot; the connector off with fingers on each side WILL cause the connector to be damaged. This sound board pair makes a two tone sound at power on. The two tones are different notes, like &amp;quot;LA-TI&amp;quot;. The first tone originates from the YM2151 on the MA-1294 auxiliary sound board. The second tone originates from the 7528 DAC. If either tone is missing, or unclear, suspect the associated sound lane.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-886) Jumpers J7 and J8====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA886JumperComparison.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The left board is from Silver Slugger (a System 3 game) which has both J7 and J8 installed. The right board is from Night Moves which has only J7 installed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA886SchematicSnippet.jpg|200px|right|thumb|A snippet of the schematic for the two boards showing that without J8 installed, the sound board will not be &amp;quot;interrupted&amp;quot; to indicate a new sound command is to be processed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 sound board was used in both System 80B and System 3 games. Two jumpers allow the board to be configured to accept the signal at connector P1, pin 9, as input. J8 IN enables this. J8 OUT defeats this. It&#039;s important to ensure these jumpers are installed appropriately for a particular game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Flippers.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical System 80 Flippers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80 flipper assemblies are very well engineered, and very little goes wrong with them.  Due to this, they are considered to be the &amp;quot;Sherman Tanks&amp;quot; of flippers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B games other than Bone Busters utilize the traditional &amp;quot;fat&amp;quot; flipper bat design (similar to Bally, Chicago Coin, and Stern), which is a carry over from the last flipper design of Gottlieb® System 1 games. The 3&amp;quot; plastic flipper bat is technically called a &amp;quot;flipper island&amp;quot; (Gottlieb® part number A-13150), and uses a 3/8&amp;quot; wide rubber ring versus the more common 1/2&amp;quot; wide rubber all other manufacturers use.  Another anomaly regarding Gottlieb® flippers from this era is that they are the only flipper design that uses an upper and lower flipper bushing system.  Neither bushing protrudes through the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
System 80/80A/80B flippers (other than Bone Busters) use an A-17875 (standard), A-24161 (stronger), or A-20095 (strongest) dual wound flipper coil.  The general design is a coil with two windings, the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; (low resistance) and &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; (high resistance) windings, just like most other flipper coil designs. However, only a single diode is used with this serial winding design versus others which employ a dual diode, parallel winding design.  Here&#039;s how it all works.  When initially engaged via the flipper cabinet button switches, both the power stroke and hold windings receive power, however, the hold winding is bypassed or shorted by the end of stroke (EOS) switch (electricity follows the path of least resistance).  As the flipper actuates and opens the EOS switch, the power is then transferred to both the power and hold windings (the resistance sum of the two windings), creating a very high resistance.  The high resistance allows the coil to remain turned on without creating stress on the low resistance power winding.  Hence, the coil can stay turned on indefinitely in theory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B flipper systems do not use a flipper relay per se.  Flipper power flows through switch pairs on Q &amp;amp; T relays located under the playfield, along with other non-computer controlled coils like slingshots.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For problems and resolutions for the flippers used in Bone Busters, please see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3#Flipper_Problems Flipper Problems] section in the Gottlieb System 3 repair guide. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers Won&#039;t Work at All====&lt;br /&gt;
Like any flipper issue, it has be determined whether the problem is electrical or mechanical in nature.  Start with obvious first.  Look for broken wires at the flipper coil, EOS switch, and cabinet switch first.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During visual inspection, make certain that the flipper EOS switch is closed (use an ohmmeter to determine this), and the switch pairs on the tilt and game over relays are properly gapped and closed.  Equally, inspect the switch pairs to see if any of the switch blades are broken or missing their contacts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since high current passes through all of the switches which enable the flipper, any of the switches may be suspect.  It is somewhat common for games which have been sitting dormant for years that the cabinet switch and / or EOS switch become so fouled, the flipper will not budge at all.  The remedy is to file these switches with an ignition file.  See the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#How_to_Properly_File_Switch_Contacts How to Properly File Switch Contacts] section.  A flexstone will not work for this job, as the cabinet and EOS switch contacts are very hard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Inspect the cabinet switches for broken female spade connectors where the cabinet wiring attaches to the switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, look at the flipper plunger / link assembly.  The plunger link is a hefty plastic piece which inserted into at hollowed out end of the flipper plunger.  The link is connected to the plunger with a small roll pin.  The link can break or the roll pin can fall out, due to vibration.  If the link is no longer connected to the plunger, the flipper will not move at all.  Refrain from trying to engage the flipper with the cabinet switches.  Continuing to enable the flipper coil will stress the coil, because the EOS switch will not open, transferring power.  The end result is an overheated flipper or damaged flipper coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers are Weak, Sluggish, or Erratic====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System1-80FlipperLinkDamageAnnotated.jpg|thumb|left|200px|A Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B Flipper Plunger/Link/Crank Parts. Note the &amp;quot;hogged out&amp;quot; part of the link]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Worn Flipper Link&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The design of the flipper crank and flipper link / plunger is peculiar to Gottlieb® games.  Gottlieb® games from the System 80/80A/80B era use a very meaty flipper link, which does not have a pivot point between it and the connected plunger.  To achieve the necessary fulcrum, the flipper link has an oval opening at the point where the link and flipper crank connect.  The two pieces are simply connected with a roll pin protruding through the two parts.  Over time, the roll pin can sometimes cut into the opening in the link, and the roll pin will catch as the flipper crank pivots.  The result is a weak flipper or a flipper which does not return to the at rest position.  Using a roll pin punch tool, remove the roll pin, and replace the flipper link / plunger assembly.  Pay close attention when installing the roll pin into the new plunger link.  It is very easy to cut into the link with the roll pin, deeming the new link / plunger worthless.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Flipper Crank Installed Incorrectly&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Reassembling a flipper bat / shoe incorrectly can result in a weak flipper.  Before tightening the two set screws which hold the flipper shaft in place, make certain that the flipper crank is centered equidistant between the upper and lower flipper bushings.  If placed too close to the upper bushing, it will &amp;quot;sandwich&amp;quot; the upper bushing between the crank and bat.  If placed too close to the lower bushing, the crank will have friction between it and the lower bushing.  The end result is a weak flipper or a flipper which does not return to the at rest position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Fouled / Pitted Switch Contacts&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Fouled switch contacts can reduce current, which in turn reduces power / strength.  Make certain that the EOS switch, cabinet switch, and switch pairs on the game over (Q) and tilt (T) relays are all clean and not pitted. Filing the contacts with an ignition file will remedy the problem, provided that the contacts are not heavily pitted.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Bad Connection to Cabinet Switch&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another problem related to the cabinet switches is the female spade connector used to connect the cabinet wiring to the switch.  These spade connectors can sometimes become sloppy or break.  In most cases, the break is not evident, until the connector is removed and reinstalled on the cabinet switch tab.  The spade connector can be removed and a new one crimped on, or the better solution is to solder the cabinet switch wires to the tabs on the cabinet switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Worn Flipper Plunger&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A mushroomed flipper plunger can create excessive drag within the coil sleeve.  When replacing the plunger / link, replace the coil sleeve and coil stop too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Coil Stop&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The coil stop &amp;quot;slug&amp;quot; is pressed into the coil stop bracket.  It is somewhat common for the slug to become detached from the coil stop bracket.  The coil stop slug will then be &amp;quot;free floating&amp;quot; within the coil sleeve.  This can create some interesting problems, but the most noticeable are reduction in flipper power, decrease in flipper stroke or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Incorrect Flipper Rubber Installed&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® used 3/8&amp;quot; wide rubber on flippers.  It fits perfectly into the groove on the plastic flipper bat.  Everybody else used 1/2&amp;quot; wide rubber, and that tended to get installed on the Gottlieb® games, too.  When a 1/2&amp;quot; wide ring is used, it almost fits, but because of the groove, it will present a funny angle to the ball instead of a flat plane.  The results are either air balls, or the flipper will smack the ball downward into the playfield.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Cracked / Broken Plastic Bat&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes the flipper bat cracks.  Replacements are available.  The screw that holds the plastic flipper bat on the metal shoe is located on the underside of the flipper.  Loosen the two set screws on the flipper crank, and the shoe and bat will come free.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Hold Winding&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Erratic flipper function is defined as a flipper which will not remain in the up (hold) position when activated.  The flipper will move rapidly up and down as if it is &amp;quot;machine gunning&amp;quot;.  This is typically the result from a break in the hold winding right at the flipper coil lug.  One resolution is to locate the broken coil winding (this will be the thinner of the two windings), and unwind one turn from the coil.  This can be accomplished if the side of the winding is not connected to the common lug of the flipper coil.  Note that the power winding cannot be unwound if it breaks.  This is because the power winding is wound on the coil bobbin first, and is located beneath the hold winding.  Once one turn of the hold winding is unwound from the coil, the excess length must be shortened.  After the correct length is determined, the portion of the winding which will be soldered to the coil lug must have its insulation stripped off.  The red or green hue on the coil winding is actually a thin insulation, which is used to keep the winding from shorting to adjacent windings.  Gently scrape the coating off the winding by using an exacto or utility knife, exposing the copper wire of the winding.  Then wrap the uninsulated winding around the coil lug, and solder it.  If a single winding cannot be removed from the existing coil, complete coil replacement is the solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers Will not Return to at Rest Position====&lt;br /&gt;
The EOS switch assembly is actuated by the pointed part of the flipper crank assembly.  This is a metal-on-metal contact point.  Due to the design of the flipper crank, it will eventually wear a hole in the EOS actuating blade.  The fix is to replace the EOS switch assembly.  About halfway through the System 80B games (around TX-Sector or so), the EOS switch was slightly relocated, and a modified flipper crank actuates the switch with a roller.  An MA-988 or MA-989 kit can be purchased to perform this upgrade on any System 80/80A/80B game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned in the previous section, the flipper link can become cut by the roll pin which secures it to the flipper crank.  This can also cause the flipper to not return to the rest position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also mentioned in the previous section, the flipper coil stop slug can detach from the coil stop bracket, causing the flipper not to return completely.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the flipper return spring has become stretched or is no longer connected to the flipper crank or coil stop anymore, the flipper will not return properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb pbdb new.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Corrected/Modified Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B Pop Bumper Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pop bumpers on all System 80 / 80A / 80B games are controlled by an under playfield mounted board known as the pop bumper driver board (PBDB). Remote pop bumper driver boards are unique to Gottlieb® System 80 games. No other manufacturer made this design decision. The reason Gottlieb® did this is probably to supplement the number of coil drive circuits as well as to solve the common problem of pop bumpers locking on with subsequent damage to the games components.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each pop bumper has its own board.  Each board provides a consistent, strong pop regardless of how long the spoon switch is activated, and ensures (when working properly) only a single pop per actuation of the spoon switch. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These boards are single-sided construction, where the traces are located only the solder side of the board.  Due to this construction, the solder connections crack easily.  Reflowing the solder of the header pins on any suspect boards is recommended to ensure a good mechanical and electrical connection.  The components should be inspected as well, because they can also have cracked solder connections that will need to be touched up.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the pop bumper fires but does not score, examine the secondary switch on each pop bumper to see if it needs cleaning or adjustment.  This switch is part of the switch matrix, and can be tested by manually pulling the pop bumper rod and ring down to activate it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Updating the Pop Bumper Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® issued a service bulletin to correct a design error with the PBDB. A great many of these boards were delivered in games prior to correcting the design at the factory. Examine the PBDBs to ensure that they have been updated. See the pictures below, noting the differences. &#039;&#039;&#039;A dead giveaway would be the lack of a jumper to replace CR1.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=150px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80/80A/80B PBDB Before/After Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-UnModifiedPBDB.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Unmodifed PBDB&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-ModifiedPBDB.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Modifed PBDB&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-ModifiedPBDBPartsExplanation.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B PBDB Update]]&lt;br /&gt;
Should your PBDB require update, follow this procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Acquire the following parts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Cut to length .156 Molex male header pins with locking ramp (you&#039;ll need a 6 pin length)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**47uf/10V electrolytic capacitor (C4)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**4.7uf/10V capacitor (C3, tantalum or electrolytic, may be axial or radial)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Jumper material (use the remaining leg cut from C4 when you install it)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove CR1, C3, and C4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the Molex connector or reflow the solder on each header pin&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Install C4 (47uf/10V) with the negative side facing the male header pins&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Use the remaining part of the capacitor leg from C4 as a jumper to replace CR1. Any jumper wire will work...the cap leg is convenient, available, and looks professional when installed nice and straight.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Install C3 (4.7uf/10V), reversing the original polarity so that the positive side faces the jumper just installed and the negative side faces the nearest board edge. Note that C3 may be axial (leads from both ends along the components &amp;quot;axis&amp;quot;) or radial (leads on one end of the component). The board is designed to accept either style.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the large can transistor (2N6057, 2N6059, PMD10K40 or PMD10K60) solder joints are solid and that the bolted end is making good contact with the PCB trace.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Test the large can transistor...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**DMM set to &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Black lead on the nut that secures the transistor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Red lead on each leg of the transistor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**A measurement between .5 and .7 should be seen. Readings significantly outside of these ranges indicate a failed transistor which should be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Examine the remaining solder joints on the board to ensure good solid joints and no lifted traces. Note that the trace between the jumper that replaces CR1 and R2 is particularly susceptible to damage and if broken, will cause the associated pop bumper to lock on.&lt;br /&gt;
*Reinstall the PBDB and test.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an update for the PBDB that gives the board a bit more &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot;. Simply replace R1 (1.5Kohms) with a 10Kohm 1/4W resistor and replace C1 (0.01mfd) with a 1 mfd 100 volt (non polarized) capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to avoid random, uncommanded pops caused by &amp;quot;noise&amp;quot; on the switch line, you can add an electrolytic capacitor to the solder side of the board. Use a 4.7 mfd 16 volt radial capacitor (both leads on one end). Solder the negative lead of the capacitor to pin 4. Solder the positive lead of the capacitor to pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing the 2N6057 with a TIP-102=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:popdrivertip102.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A TIP-102 installed on a Pop Bumper Driver Board (PBDB)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PBDTIP102.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Closer view of a TIP-102 installed on a PBDB]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 2N6057 used on Gottlieb games is obsolete, so it is hard-to-find and expensive.  A cheap and effective substitute for the 2N6057 as used on the PBDB is a TIP102 transistor.  It&#039;s not the most elegant &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot;, but it works well.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Early System 80 / 80A Drop Target Removal====&lt;br /&gt;
For now, please review the drop target removal guide available at [http://www.papinball.com/tips/gottlieb_drop_target_guide2.html PAPinball.com].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Later System 80B Drop Target Removal==== &lt;br /&gt;
This is a stub&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Vari-Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
The single largest problem with vari-targets is adjusting the spring tension, which returns the vari-target to the at rest position.  The spring can be adjusted by hooking it to one of two screws which hold the spring in place.  In most cases, there is only one screw, but two screw holes are placed 180 degreees from one another within the vari-target frame.  Spring adjustment should be made so that the vari-target barely returns to the home position, when the playfield is upright (resting against the backbox).  Once the playfield is placed in its proper position, gravity will help with the extra &amp;quot;bump&amp;quot; that the vari-target needs to return home.  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, the switch leaves of the vari-target, which &amp;quot;ride&amp;quot; along the rivet board need enough tension to make good solid contact with the rivets. Since it&#039;s impossible to bend the switch leaves closer to the rivet board with the rivet board in place, removal of the vari-target rivet board must be done to make this adjustment.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vari-targets seldom require adjustment as they were correctly adjusted at the factory. It is possible to move parts of the mechanism so that the switch no longer comes to rest on a rivet when the vari-target &amp;quot;gear&amp;quot; is stopped by the reset relay armature.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vari-targets are a rare example of where lubrication helps the operation of the mechanism. A thin film of lithium grease on the rivets helps the switch blade &amp;quot;wipe&amp;quot; cleanly across them. Like [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brylcreem Brylcreem], &amp;quot;a little dab&#039;ll do ya&amp;quot;. Note: That&#039;s humor son...Brylcreem is not a suitable lubricant...for pinball machines. :-)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Roto Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
By the time System 80 games first came out, the roto target was a dying assembly.  The believed reason is due to the amount of playfield &amp;quot;real estate&amp;quot; in which it used underneath a playfield.  Circus is the only System 80 game which used the roto target.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
===Cabinet===&lt;br /&gt;
* Power cable strain relief bushing, 80A games: Heyco 7k-2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Black Hole issues have been moved to the dedicated [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole Black Hole] page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Alien Star Game Start Failure===&lt;br /&gt;
Alien Star has a major fault when running the original 689 code.  For the game to properly start, one ball must be in the trough and one ball in the outhole.  If both balls are located in the trough, only the single trough switch will be closed, and not the outhole switch.  When only the trough switch is closed, the game *thinks* that only one ball is installed, (2 balls total are needed), and will do absolutely nothing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has not been verified, but running 689A code may resolve this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Haunted House Upkicker Plastic Tube Mounting Bracket===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cornell_VR4_cap_bracket.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Mounting bracket for the plastic tube.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The metal mounting bracket that secures the longer plastic upkicker tube to the main playfield breaks its tabs (ears) off allowing the tube to flop around loose. This bracket is actually an electrolytic capacitor mounting bracket for computer grade capacitors. If broken, Mouser Electronics sells this item as part number [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/VR4/?qs=0r35cIPu56HWvTGFwxXK2g%3d%3d 539-VR4]. The OEM part is a VR4, which is manufactured by Cornell-Dublier (Mallory).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Devil&#039;s Dare - All Displays out except status display===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DD Resistor Before.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Burnt 200 Ohm resistor on +60VDC display power line]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DD Resistor After.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Replacement 200 Ohm 2 watt resistor on +60VDC display power line]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the game in question is a Devil&#039;s Dare, and all of the displays are out except for the status display, and the +60VDC is present at the power supply, but not at the displays, the following may apply.  Some Devil&#039;s Dare games, (it is unknown exactly which ones at this point), have a 200 ohm resistor installed in series with the +60VDC power line for the displays.  The resistor is located on the lamp insert board, just behind the lower right 6 digit display.  The resistor is soldered to two solder eyelets, so replacement is relatively easy.  It is unknown what the purpose of this resistor is, but it is fairly common for the resistor to overheat and potentially fail.  The recommended replacement for this is a 200 ohm 2 watt resistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no information regarding the value or placement of this resistor in the Devil&#039;s Dare manual / schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Mars God of War (MGOW) - Background Sound Continues After Game is Over===&lt;br /&gt;
If the background sound continues after the game is over, this may solve the issue.  Even though the manual states that dipswitch 25 on the CPU board is not used, try placing switch 25 in the &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Volcano Kick Back Ends Prematurely ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:VolcanoKickBack.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The Volcano kickback mechanism.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The kickback mechanism in Volcano, once enabled by a playfield feature, remains available until the player uses the feature by pressing the green cabinet button in front of the flipper switch. The game knows that the feature has been used by sensing the switch at the rear of the mechanism. As the plunger pulls in, the normally closed switch is opened by the ring on the rear of the plunger. If this normally closed switch isn&#039;t &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; solidly, the game will think that the plunger has pulled in. The kickback feature will be considered used and hence disabled.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The behavior looks like the feature has timed out prematurely.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Games with Playfield Windows: Black Hole, Haunted House, Genesis, Monte Carlo, etc. ===&lt;br /&gt;
Playfield windows use foam washers that provide &amp;quot;counter force&amp;quot; to help keep the window flush with the playfield. If the window isn&#039;t flush with the playfield, the &amp;quot;lip&amp;quot; of the sunken window in its mount will cause airballs and/or the edge of the playfield will wear excessively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a couple decades, springy foam washers turn into hard, crumbly foam washers. Weatherstripping (&amp;quot;beer seal&amp;quot;), cut really small, works in a pinch, but the Pinball Resource stocks the proper foam washers (GTB # 21219). Strips of tool box drawer liner work as well, but there is only one chance to crank them down before they compress.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
==== Game Displays 000000 On Power Up and It&#039;s Not The Slam Switch ====&lt;br /&gt;
If you power the game on and all of the displays immediately display all zeros without strobing the problem is usually with the slam switch. However, if the slam switch modification has been done or the slam switch is working properly there is a problem with the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I had this problem on my Haunted House machine. I finally found that chip Z15 (7432) was bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I was fixing a kicker solenoid on the playfield, the playfield was still in the machine and fully in the upright position. While I was soldering the wire to the new solenoid I did not adequately protect the components below from a solder drip. Well, I did have a solder drip that landed right on a pop bumper driver board connector and shorted the connector. The short caused more than just this problem but for this narrative we will restrict to the slam/switch matrix problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reading in other materials I recognized the problem as the slam switch issue. I used a logic probe to test other components and found the CPU board working, mostly as it should except for acting like the machine was slam tilted. There was little written about the problem outside of the slam switch. I decided to check the matrix by doing a diode check on all of the diodes in the switch matrix. When I did this, I found that many of the diodes were testing bad. These were being tested with the board removed from the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Having replacement diodes in my parts drawer I decided that these must have gone bad during the short. I began unsoldering a few of the diodes. Once disconnected from the circuit board I remeasured the removed diodes and found the correct values on my meter, they were not bad. I then noticed that the bad diodes were all in the same row on the switch matrix. They all traced back to the Z15 chip. I replaced the Z15 7432 and the problem was resolved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Game Displays a single 0 or 1 on Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
If an 80A game does not boot and displays just a single zero, just a single 1, or alternates between a single zero and single 1, this may indicate one or more bad IC(s) on the MPU:&lt;br /&gt;
* CPU&lt;br /&gt;
* Z7&lt;br /&gt;
* Z8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU itself may still output data that can be picked up with a logic probe, but still might be bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-sys80a-bad-cpu-display-symptom.gif|thumb|200px|left|Animation of symptom of alternating 0 and 1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-sys80a-bad-cpu-display-symptom-zeros.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Symptom of the displays showing a single zero]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=&amp;quot;all&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Testing the Q relay ====&lt;br /&gt;
Had a problem with my Black Hole - Q relay didn&#039;t activate. Played a bit with wires, did ground mods, .. &lt;br /&gt;
After a while I noticed it did work but didn&#039;t stay enabled - at the start of a game it closed, 1 coil (ball drain) kicked and the Q relay deactivated again. Noticed this with the playfield in up position, no pinballs installed.&lt;br /&gt;
Finally tested with playfield down - and pinballs installed - suddenly the behaviour was different: ball drain coil kicked and then the next coil also that put a coil in the shooter lane. Seems the Q relay did work all this time, but will only stay enabled when pinballs are installed in the game ?!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Results of a locked on coil ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurntCoil1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Melted coil sleeve]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurntCoil2.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Burnt paper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a coil locks on (due for example to a bad driver board transistor), the coil will burn. Here is a coil which had locked on. Note the burn marks on the paper wrapping and the melted coil sleeve, which prevented the coil plunger from moving through the coil. The resistance of this coil was 0.9 ohms (the specified resistance for this particular coil should be 3.35 ohms), also indicating it&#039;s bad due to an internal short (adjacent windings shorted together due to overheating the coil wire insulation).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Black Hole top rollover switches ====&lt;br /&gt;
When Black Hole serves a ball, it must go through the top rollovers before hitting any other switch.  The playfield design ensures this.  But if it doesn&#039;t (I had the glass off and started testing some other feature), things get very weird: suddenly, I seemed to be in a 3-ball, 4-player game with some of the score displays blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This isn&#039;t usually a problem in practice but it is worth making sure that the three top rollovers have clean switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replacing the 80B 5V pot ====&lt;br /&gt;
I got a Monte Carlo and replaced the 5V adjustment pot on the regulator.  It was working fine.  After the old one had been chopped off, I discovered it was the same as the new one.  It had already been replaced!  A bunch of rework on the regulator, and ground mods on the transformer frame, should have been my clue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 80B sound doesn&#039;t work ====&lt;br /&gt;
I got a Spring Break and the sound didn&#039;t work.  The LED didn&#039;t light in any predictable way, and the game put out a lot of white noise.  At one point I thought I heard some sounds underneath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, I had a Monte Carlo sitting next to it where the sound did work.  I spent some time trying to understand the problem, and finally just swapped all the socketed chips (three EPROMs and the &amp;quot;Orator&amp;quot; speech synthesizer).  The problem followed the EPROMs, not the board.  Ultimately I replaced all three ROMs, although it seems likely that only one was likely bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the sound board has two separate CPUs, and only one controls the LED, so it is likely one of the two EPROMs associated with that CPU that is actually bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Two flash lamp problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
Monte Carlo has four pairs of flashers controlled by &amp;quot;lamp&amp;quot; drive transistors, stepped up by under-playfield transistors.  On my game, I had two unrelated problems with different flash banks.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two sockets by the roulette wheel were missing their lamps, and the under playfield was a little burned near where the lamps had been.  Apparently they were locked on, and someone had pulled the bulbs rather than fix the problem.  I replaced Q17, which was out of spec according to the measurements on this page.  I didn&#039;t replace the under-playfield MJ2955 because it seemed to measure correctly.  One down, one to go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The other flasher, the two on the left side, just didn&#039;t work.  Lamp bulbs were fine, and all transistors seemed OK by the tests given above.  I checked for continuity in the wiring and even tried grounding the transistor side of the circuit, but no lamps lit.  Finally, I pulled the plastic off to take the bulb out (to measure at the socket) and I found that the two lugs of the socket were bent and touching!  So the lamp was a short, but because of the resistor, not short enough to blow the fuse or fry the transistor.  A little bending back seems to have fixed it. -- [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 16:29, 7 February 2014 (CST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 80B Display has garbage on one display glass ====&lt;br /&gt;
Chicago Cubs had garbage/nonsensical characters on just the lower score display. I found chip U2 (type 10939) which controls the lower display to be bad. Replacing the chip cured the problem. I also installed a 40 pin IC socket for the replacement chip. If by chance you encounter the same symptom except that it is on the upper display, then chip U1 (type 10939) is bad. U1 controls the upper score display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rebuilt 80/80A Power supply, solenoid fuse blows on power up====&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 80/80A power supply has been rebuilt and the solenoid fuse blows as soon as the game is turned on, take a look at the power supply capacitor at C1. It might have been installed in the wrong direction. Make sure the (-)side on the capacitor matches the (-) side notated on the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Haunted House ten thousand digit out on several displays ====&lt;br /&gt;
Encountered the ten thousand digits missing on three displays: player 1, player 3, and bonus display. Tried several known good cpu boards and problem remained. Tried swapping displays and problem remained. I traced the problem to the wiring harness on the main playfield. At the playfield mounted transistor Q2, the transistor mounting bracket had cut into the wiring harness. I repaired the harness with electrical tape and routed the harness farther away from that bracket with a couple of wire ties. Problem fixed and all displays are now working correctly.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ni-WumpfSlamMod.jpeg&amp;diff=21239</id>
		<title>File:Ni-WumpfSlamMod.jpeg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ni-WumpfSlamMod.jpeg&amp;diff=21239"/>
		<updated>2021-10-27T16:22:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: Slam Switch Mod for Ni-Wumpf CPU board&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Summary ==&lt;br /&gt;
Slam Switch Mod for Ni-Wumpf CPU board&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80&amp;diff=21238</id>
		<title>Gottlieb System 80</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80&amp;diff=21238"/>
		<updated>2021-10-27T16:21:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Slam Switch Modification for Ni-Wumpf CPU Board*/&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Gottlieb_Repair_Guides | Gottlieb® solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 1st gen boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Set - 1st Generation ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
			&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb&#039;s® second generation of solid state pinballs is System 80.  Capabilities were increased in terms of controllable lamps, solenoids, gameplay, and sound.  No longer tied to an EM-esque platform, Gottlieb® started to introduce games with more unconventional asymmetric playfields.  System 80 marked a foray into double and triple level playfields, speech, and multiball. Unfortunately, it also represented a lateral step in reliability, with battery corrosion, connectors, and bad grounding plaguing the design.  Nearly all the same issues as were present with the System 1 platform.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
			&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80cabinet.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Set - 2nd Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the System 1 games, the System 80 / 80A / 80B design relied solely on connectors and daisy-chained wiring to transport the ground lines from board to board. The exception is that the large ground plane used with System 1 games was no longer used behind the boards with the System 80 games. Gottlieb® still opted to use plastic standoffs to elevate and secure the boards to the backbox or the back side of the lamp box insert. Thus, if a single ground connector failed in the chain, the logic ground could fail for one or several of the circuit boards. This could potentially lead to locked on coils, relays, and / or controlled lamps. In turn, transistors and chips would fail.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Later gtb sys80a boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Board Set]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 platform was used for a total of nine years from 1980-1989.  During this period, there were three main versions of the boardset.  These three versions are referred to as: System 80, System 80A, and System 80B.  System 80 was used from 1980-1982, System 80A was used from 1982-1985, and System 80B was used from 1985-1989.  The easiest way to differentiate between the three versions is by looking at the style of displays which were used.  System 80 used 6-digit displays for scoring, and in some instances, for bonus values or timers.  System 80A used 7-digit displays for scoring, and 6-digit displays for bonus values or timers too.  Both the 6-digit and 7-digit displays were limited to displaying numeric values.  System 80B differed the most by using two 20-digit alpha-numeric displays, which were stacked on top of each other.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Early gtb sys80b boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Early]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shortly after the onset of using the System 80B boardset, it was evident that the complexity of playfield designs had quickly outgrown the boardset.  Remote satellite boards, and transistors littered the underside of the playfield and inside the cabinet, because the driver board was too undersized to handle these extra duties.  A new boardset, known as the System 3 platform, was under development, but was not released until nearly 4 years later in 1990.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
	 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Typical gtb sys80b boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Typical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Later 80B Backbox.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Later Games (Hot Shots, Bad Girls, and Big House]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once a System 80 / 80A / 80B game has been methodically gone through with board design grounding flaws and connectors corrected, they are just as reliable as any of their contemporaries.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 Prototype===&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Incredible Hulk || 1979 || Unknown || 500 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit || A small number of games were used as a testing platform, which featured the system 80 boardset instead of the system 1 boardset.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 1st Generation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Amazing Spiderman|| 05-1980 || 7625 || 653 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Panthera|| 06-1980 || 5220 || 652 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||   6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Circus|| 06-1980 || 1700 || 654 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit || Ultra Widebody &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Counterforce|| 06-1980 || 3870 || 656 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||   6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Race|| 08-1980 || 870 || 657 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit || Ultra Widebody  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 2nd Generation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Sound&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|James Bond|| 10-1980 || 3625 || 658 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Time Line|| 12-1980 || 3167 || 659 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Force II|| 12-1981 || 2000 || 661 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pink Panther|| 03-1981 || 2840 || 664 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mars God of War|| 03-1981 || 5240 || 666 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || First Gottlieb® with speech, lane change, and multi-ball&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano|| 09-1981 || 3655 || 667 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || Export games used [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Hole]]|| 10-1981 || 8774 || 668 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || First Gottlieb® with 2-Level playing area, Export games used [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board and a simple single backglass with no spinning disc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Haunted House]]|| 06-1982|| 6835 || 669 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 6-digit || First game with 3-Level playing area, Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board w/o the speech chip installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Eclipse|| 1982 || 193 || 671 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit || Production game and available as a kit for James Bond 007 &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Devil&#039;s Dare|| 08-1982 || 3832 || 670 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || Export games used the [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Caveman]]|| 09-1982 || 1800 || PV810 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || Pinball / Video game hybrid &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky|| 09-1982 || 1504 || 672 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spirit|| 11-1982 || 1230 || 673 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Punk!|| 12-1982 || 959 || 674 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Striker|| 11-1982 || 910 || 675 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Krull|| 02-1983 || 10 || 676 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Goin&#039; Nuts|| 02-1983|| 10 || 682 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Q*bert&#039;s Quest|| 03-1983 || 884 || 677 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Super Orbit|| 05-1983 || 2100 || 680 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Royal Flush Deluxe|| 06-1983 || 2000 || 681 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Amazon Hunt]]|| 09-1983 || 1515 || 684 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]] or [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board. Later production games used the [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|sound only]] piggyback sound board &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rack &#039;Em Up!|| 11-1983 || 1762 || 685 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Ready... Aim... Fire!|| 11-1983 || 390 || 686 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jacks to Open|| 05-1984 || 2350 || 687 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alien Star|| 06-1984 || 1065 || 689 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || 689A Denotes a revision in the ROM code&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Games|| 08-1984|| 1768 || 691 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Touchdown|| 10-1984 || 711 || 688 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|El Dorado City of Gold|| 09-1984 || 905 || 692 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Ice Fever|| 02-1985 || 1585 || 695 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Chicago Cubs Triple Play|| 05-1985 || ~1365 || 696 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bounty Hunter|| 07-1985 || 1220 || 694 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tag Team Pinball|| 09-1985 || 1220 || 698 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] ||  Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock|| 10-1985 || 1875 || 697 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 || DIP switches 7 and 8, while listed as &amp;quot;spares&amp;quot;, 7 is actually used to turn attract sounds on / off.  There is an addendum added to the first page of the manual stating as such.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Raven|| 03-1986 || 3550 || 702 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock Encore|| 04-1986 || 245 || 704 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||Production game using same playfield art as Rock, but mainly available as a conversion kit for Rock&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hollywood Heat|| 06-1986 || 3400 || 703 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| 09-1986 || 3500 || 705 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| 10-1986 || 3260 || 707 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| 04-1987 || 3550 || 706 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| 02-1987 || 4315 || 708 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]||  Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Arena|| 06-1987 || 3099 || 709 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]||Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| 10-1987 || 3315 || 710 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diamond Lady|| 02-1988 || 2700 || 711 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|TX Sector|| 03-1988 || 2336 || 712 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| 04-1988 || 2130 || 714 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Excalibur|| 11-1988 || 1710 || 715 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||Start of the MA-1133 CPU Board. No actual speech callouts are present in this game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| 11-1988 || 2500 || 717 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big House|| 04-1989 || 1977 || 713 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Shots|| 04-1989 || 2342 || 718 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters Inc.|| 08-1989 || 2000 || 719 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 || Uses 3 sound boards - uses 50v to power flippers &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release, production numbers, and model number provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Recommended Documentation===&lt;br /&gt;
====Manuals====&lt;br /&gt;
* A game manual.  Pinball Resource has many factory originals still left, and reprints of everything else.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Repair Guides====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gottlieb Star Series 80 Service Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Gottlieb-star-series-80-service-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]][[file:Gottlieb-star-series-80-service-manual-cover-alt.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Information on how system 80 operates, with troubleshooting information outlined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1983 Technical Seminar Workbook&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Information on how system 80 operates, with troubleshooting information outlined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parts Catalogs====&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; schematics, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Gottlieb tended to publish a lot of game-specific information in parts catalogs. These have exploded diagrams of assemblies, particularly in earlier games that had the thinner, much less helpful manuals. Playfield parts, lamps, and switches are all diagrammed out. These also have collected service bulletins. Reprints are available from Pinball Resource.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1982 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1982-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Counter Force, Star Race, James Bond, Time Line, Force II, Pink Panther, Mars God Of War, Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, Caveman, Rocky. This catalog also features system 1 games.&lt;br /&gt;
|Includes parts assemblies, plus switch matrix and controlled lamp locations, board layouts, schematics, and board parts lists, coin door parts, and some cabinet parts. Includes System 1 and 80 parts and boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1987 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1987-parts-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, Rocky, Spirit, Rock, Striker, Q*bert&#039;s Quest, Super Orbit, Royal Flush, Amazon Hunt, Rack &#039;Em Up, The Games, Chicago Cubs Triple Play, Rock Encore, Ready Aim Fire, Touchdown, Bounty Hunter, Raven, Jacks To Open, El Dorado City Of Gold, Tag Team, Hollywood Heat, Alien Star, Ice Fever, Rock, Genesis&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1992 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1992-parts-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Covers 80B games starting from Gold Wings and the first 9 System 3 titles (games #706-#730).&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One interesting note about the part numbers is that the single letter that preceded the number indicated the size of the paper that was used for the original drawing/blueprint of the part. Paper sizes A up through F were used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connector Designations===&lt;br /&gt;
All Gottlieb® machines have a common naming convention for all of the connectors in the game.  A specific connection uses two parts - a prefix and a suffix.  The prefix is the board number or an inline wire junction, and the suffix is the connection on the board or a sequential wire junction number.  When referencing a specific connector pin within a housing, a dash follows the connection number.  For example, the connector pin for the slam switch signal on the CPU board is A1J5-10.  The coin door connection used on Devil&#039;s Dare is A15P1 and A15J1 - the connector pin for switch return 7 on the coin door is A15J1-8.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following boards are assigned the same numbers throughout the System 80 / 80A / 80B platforms.&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU Board - A1&lt;br /&gt;
*Power Supply - A2&lt;br /&gt;
*Driver Board - A3&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound Board - A6&lt;br /&gt;
*Pop Bumper Driver Boards - A8&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset Board - A24&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are several other board designations used, however, they change from game to game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Wiring Color Code===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unlike every other pinball manufacturer, which adopted a two-color wiring code system, Gottlieb® used three colors.  Most wiring in a Gottlieb® game used a white base color, which is the wire&#039;s insulation color, and three &amp;quot;striped&amp;quot; traces on each wire.  I state most cases, because there are some wires which only used two colors - the green insulated ground lines which have a single yellow trace, or only one color - the white ground wires used in System 80B games with no trace at all.  Below is the Gottlieb® color chart.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!0&lt;br /&gt;
!1&lt;br /&gt;
!2&lt;br /&gt;
!3&lt;br /&gt;
!4&lt;br /&gt;
!5&lt;br /&gt;
!6&lt;br /&gt;
!7&lt;br /&gt;
!8&lt;br /&gt;
!9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Color || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Black&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#A52A2A&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Brown &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FFA500&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Orange &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#800080&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Purple &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#808080&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Gray &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; White &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
Does the color chart look familiar?  Well, if you have an electronics background, it should.  The Gottlieb® wire code system is the same as the resistor color coding system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some examples of the color coding system.  The color wire code for switch strobe line 0 is 400.  400 would be a white insulated wire with a yellow trace and two black traces, or commonly referred to as a yellow-black-black wire.  The ground lines in early System 80 games are code 54.  54 would be a green insulated wire with one yellow trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is one word of caution, which should be pointed out.  If the connections on A1J2 and A1J3 are being replaced, there are wire colors on these connections which are very similar.  Although each wire is located on a different housing, please proceed with caution, as it can be difficult to see all three traces without spinning the wire around.  The wires which come to mind are 344 and 677 on A1J2, and 433 and 766 on A1J3.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Wire Coloring====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80A1J6SwitchMatrixWireColors.png|right|thumb|500px|Gottlieb® System 80 Switch Matrix Wire Coloring at Connector A1J6. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Illustration provided with permission of Sascha Voskuil aka Zaza.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
Wire colors used for the switch matrix, as connected to A1J6 on the MPU, were identical across all Gottlieb System 80/80A/80B games. They are, from pin 1 to 19, and right-to-left &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(backwards)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; as you view the front of the connector as installed on the MPU...&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-black-black&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-brown-brown&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-red-red&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-orange-orange&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-yellow-yellow&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-green-green&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-blue-blue&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-purple-purple&lt;br /&gt;
#white (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-black-black&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-brown-brown&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-red-red&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-orange-orange&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-yellow-yellow&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-green-green&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-blue-blue&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-purple-purple&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-slate-slate (+5VDC)&lt;br /&gt;
#empty&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; that not all games use all rows and/or all columns of the switch matrix. Unused switch matrix circuits are left wired.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Switch Numbering====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 switch matrix.png|left|thumb|600px|Gottlieb® System 80 Switch Matrix]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A / 80B switch matrix consists of a maximum of 64 switches.  There are a total of 8 switch strobes and 8 switch returns. However, not every switch in the matrix is used on every System 80 game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the System 1 switch numbering system, the System 80 switch numbers have a similar naming convention.  Except, the System 80 switch numbering system is the opposite of System 1.  If you are accustomed to working on System 1 games, pay close attention.  With Gottlieb® System 80 switches the first number of the switch is its strobe number, while the second number is switch&#039;s return number.  An example would be switch 54.  Switch 54 is located on strobe 5 and return 4 of the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 0&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-1 / A1J5-2)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 1&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-2 / A1J5-3)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 2&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-3 / A1J5-4)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 3&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-4 / A1J5-5)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-5 / A1J5-6)&lt;br /&gt;
! Strobe 5&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-6 / A1J5-7)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 6&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-7)&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 7&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-8 / A1J5-9)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 0 (A1J6-10)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 10&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 20&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 30&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 40&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 50&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 60&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 70&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 1 (A1J6-11)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 11&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 21&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 31&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 41&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 51&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 61&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 71&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 2 (A1J6-12)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 02&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 12&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 22&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 32&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 42&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 52&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 62&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 72&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 3 (A1J6-13)&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 03&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 13&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 26&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 33&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 43&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 53&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 63&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 73&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 4 (A1J6-14)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 04&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 14&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 24&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 34&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 44&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 54&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 64&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 74&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 5 (A1J6-15)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 05&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 15&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 25&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 35&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 45&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 55&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 65&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 75&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 6&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-16 / A1J5-8)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 06&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 16&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 26&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 36&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 46&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 56&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 66&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 76&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 7&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-17 / A1J5-1)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 07&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 17&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 27&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 37&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 47&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 57&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 67&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 77&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The &amp;quot;Missing&amp;quot; Gottlieb® System 80 Switches====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the Gottlieb® System 80 series of games, there are some switch assignments that are designated the same throughout the System 80, 80A, and 80B platforms.  These switches are typically not listed in the switch matrix portion of the manual.  You have to review the cabinet schematics, and decipher what switches use what return and strobe.  However, it appears that Gottlieb® / Premier® changed this section of the schematic starting with Excalibur or Bad Girls by no longer listing the strobes for these switches.  So, below are the &amp;quot;missing&amp;quot; switch assignments for any Sys80B.  All the info applies for Sys80 and Sys80A, except the two advance buttons, which weren&#039;t used prior to Sys80B.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;06&#039;&#039;&#039; - left advance button, also pause both lamp and relay/ solenoid tests (Sys80B only)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;07&#039;&#039;&#039; - play / test switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039; - right advance button (Sys80B only)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;17&#039;&#039;&#039; - left coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;27&#039;&#039;&#039; - right coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;37&#039;&#039;&#039; - center coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;47&#039;&#039;&#039; - replay button&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;57&#039;&#039;&#039; - plumb bob and ball roll tilts (these have the same switch assignment as the playfield tilt switch)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Black Hole is an exception.  The switch assigned for the tilt on Black Hole is 26.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The coin door slam switch is not part of the switch matrix.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Language Selection ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only way to change the language displayed is to install the correct language ROMs. Gottlieb didn’t incorporate a “soft” method of changing language selection. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Enabling Free Play===&lt;br /&gt;
Free play options were unavailable in the original System 80/80A/80B game code. However, there are some hardware modifications that can be done, stacked switches can be added to the start/credit button, or  EPROMs with free play code can replace original PROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play EPROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
For system 80/80A, the U2/U3 PROMs can be replaced with an [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Freeplay_EN.php EPROM with free play code]. Replacing U2/U3 will require an adapter, such as the [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=140-101 module from GreatPlainsElectronics], a [http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/sys80mod.php#system custom adapter board], or the Swemmer Electornics U2/U3 Adapter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 80B, the game PROM can be replaced with an [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php EPROM with free play code].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80 Games====&lt;br /&gt;
Early Gottlieb® solid state pinball machines, prior to 1990, did not have a free play option available within the game settings.  With this simple modification, a game can be set up for free play.  First, identify the diode strip in the bottom of the cabinet.  Once the diode strip is found, locate the credit button and coin switch strobe line wires.  The wires will be located on the left of the diode strip - the non-banded side of the diodes.  Below is a list of the wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Credit button wire - Green-Yellow-Yellow&lt;br /&gt;
* Left coin switch wire - Green-Brown-Brown&lt;br /&gt;
* Center coin switch wire - Green-Orange-Orange&lt;br /&gt;
* Right coin switch wire - Green-Red-Red&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtbsys80board.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical location of System 80 diode board in cabinet]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80FreePlayJumper.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 Black Hole diode board with jumper (yellow wire) to implement free play]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder a small lead wire from the credit button wire to any of the coin switch wires.  The wires will change to different colors on the other side of the diode. You want to solder to the side of the diode (non-banded) with the color wire specified above. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make certain that the diode, credit button wire, and coin switch wire are still soldered securely to the diode strip terminal when finished.  If soldering is not an option, use a small alligator clip test lead.  Now, when the credit button is pressed, a credit will be incremented and decremented.  A game can be easily started without the need to open the coin door to trip the coin switches anymore.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that this modification does not apply to Gottlieb® System 80A and System 80B machines.  System 80A and 80B machines use diode boards with edge connections, which are typically located on the cabinet wall near the left flipper cabinet switch.  Jumpering the diodes on System 80A and 80B games do not give the intended free play results of jumpered System 80 diodes.  This is attributed to how the diode boards are physically placed differently in circuit with respect to the switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TimeLineFreePlay.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Time Line diode board with jumper (the red wire...I mean...it&#039;s a red flippin&#039; wire. You HAVE to be able to see it!) to implement free play]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left ties the center coin chute wire (Green-Orange-Orange) to the credit button wire (Green-Yellow-Yellow).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80A Games====&lt;br /&gt;
There is no method to implement free play for System 80A games at this time, other than &amp;quot;stacking&amp;quot; the credit button switch with one of the coin drop switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80B Games====&lt;br /&gt;
A System 80B game does not have a built-in free play option available, so the fallback option to add credits is usually to open the coin door and trip the coin switches. However, there are a couple of methods that can be used to avoid doing that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Free Play Diode Board Modification=====&lt;br /&gt;
Locate the diode board used for all of the coin door switches. Remove the diode board. Add a jumper between pin 4 and pin 10 of the diode board on the solder side of the board, (this can be done on the component side instead). Make certain that the jumper is soldered onto the banded side of the diodes. This jumper essentially ties the right advance button on the front of the cabinet to the center coin switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, when the right advance button is pressed, credits will be added to the game. There have not been any ill side effects observed when the right advance button is pressed while scrolling through characters used to enter high score initials.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An alternative method that achieves the same result is to use a jumper wire with minigrabber ends and clip them on to the bottom of the 4th and 9th diodes (from the right) on the front of the board. This requires no soldering and you don&#039;t even have to remove the diode board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The jumper modification should work on games from Chicago Cubs Triple Play to Excalibur. It is unconfirmed if it will work on Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Bone Busters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400 class=center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board.JPG|Typical location of System 80B diode board on cabinet wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added.JPG|Added jumper to back of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Location_Front.JPG|Location to add jumper to front of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added_To_Front.JPG|Added minigrabber jumper to front of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Free Play ROM=====&lt;br /&gt;
Another option is a free play ROM, produced by a group of kindly fellows in France. By burning the revised image into a 2764, and installing the new ROM on the daughter card, the game will now be on free play. Their implementation notices when zero credits are on the game and the credit button has been pressed. The new code then adds 20 credits to the game, and starts a game. The System 80B free play ROMs can be found [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bookkeeping &amp;amp; Diagnostics ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 test button.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Coin Door Test Button Highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To enter the bookkeeping / diagnostic mode, open the coin door and press the red momentary switch. (Note this switch has no credit function)  Depending on the particular game, the self test button may be mounted on a bracket located on the coin door or just inside the cabinet near the coin door hinge.  Upon pressing this button, the 4-digit status display used with System 80 and System 80A games will display &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; in the credit window. Pressing the self test button again will advance to the next step in the bookkeeping.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an option to bypass all of the bookkeeping functions, entering diagnostic mode directly.  To achieve this, the self test button must first be pressed.  &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; will shown on the status display.  Then, the credit / start button should be pressed once.  The status display should now show &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;. &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; is the first test in diagnostic mode.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Bookkeeping (System 80/80A)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1 - Coins thru left chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2 - Coins thru right chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3 - Coins thru center chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4 - Total plays&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5 - Total replays&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6 - Game percentage&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7 - Extra ball&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
8 - Total tilts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
9 - Total slam tilts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
10 - Number of times the HSTD has been beaten&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
11 - First high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
12 - Second high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
13 - Third high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
14 - High score to date score&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
15 - Average game time &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Diagnostics&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
16 - Lamp test&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
17 - Coil test (will cycle and display coil number of coils used in the game. Coin counter coils, if installed, are excluded)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
18 - Switch test. (99 = no switches closed)  You can check switch numbers by pressing them on the playfield during this step.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
19 - Display test. The displays will cycle through each digit&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
20 - Memory test. (99 = no fault)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80-7641-2Error.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 &amp;quot;7641&amp;quot; Error]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An example of a ROM image checksum error (or perhaps a ROM memory access error) displayed during test 20 is pictured at left. During test 20, if a checksum error is detected, the ROM code in U2/U3 will indicate &amp;quot;7641-X&amp;quot; in the player 1 display window, with &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; being &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; to indicate PROM 1 or &amp;quot;2&amp;quot; to indicate PROM 2. If you have followed the procedure to combine the original game ROMs into a single 2716, this error message is an indicator that the checksum of either the 1st half or the 2nd half of that ROM failed. Replace the ROM.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B uses the same process as System 80/80A to enter bookkeeping / diagnostics.  The only difference is upon pushing the self test button the first time, the top alphanumeric display will display &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;TEST MODE&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;.  Pressing the self test button again will enter bookkeeping mode, while pressing the credit / start button will enter diagnostics mode.  After entering either mode, pressing the self test button will advance through each step in the appropriate mode.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any of the tests in diagnostics can be repeated by simply pressing the credit / start button.  This applies to all versions of System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following also applies to all System 80 platforms.  To exit bookkeeping or diagnostics, the slam switch or tilt switch can be triggered.  Equally, waiting 60 seconds will reset the CPU back to attract mode. This is probably the only benefit in keeping the slam switch functional.  However, considering the sometimes strange side effects, which can arise from a maladjusted or malfunctioning slam switch, [[Gottlieb_System_80#Slam_Switch_Modification | disabling the slam switch]] would probably the better approach.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Default High Score To Date (HSTD)====&lt;br /&gt;
If a high score to date is not explicitly set (setting 14), then some (most) games use a default HSTD of either 770,000 or 790,000. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Pausing the Lamp and Solenoid Test (System 80B Only)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80B left advance.jpg|left|thumb|150px|The left advance button on a System 80B Game]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The following only applies to System 80B lamp and solenoid tests.  A little known fact is that the lamp and solenoid tests can be &amp;quot;paused&amp;quot; on a single lamp or single solenoid.  To stop whichever item is being tested during lamp or solenoid test, and repeat the test on the particular item, simply push and hold in the left advance button located on the front of the cabinet, as shown in the picture to the left.  The left advance button can then be released, pressed, and held in again to step to the next item in the test.  This is a particularly nice feature, because the lamps and solenoids or relays tend to be pulsed rather quickly in test, and cannot be observed very well, until the test repeats itself.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Rubber Ring Chart===&lt;br /&gt;
Although the Gottlieb® System 80 game manuals do list the location and part numbers for rubber rings used, some fail to list the actual rubber ring size.  Below is a handy chart, which lists the Gottlieb® rubber OEM number and its size.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Gottlieb® #&lt;br /&gt;
!Description &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14793 ||23/64&amp;quot; White Mini-Post&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15705 ||27/64&amp;quot; White Mini-Post&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10217 ||5/16&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-17493 || 7/16&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10218 || 3/4&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10219 || 1&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10220 || 1-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10221 || 2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10222 || 2-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10223 || 3&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10224 || 3-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10225 || 4&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10226 || 5&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-13151 || 3/8 x 1-1/2&amp;quot; Standard Red Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-13149 || 3/8 x 1&amp;quot; - Small Beaded Red Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-1344 || Rebound Rubber&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1872 || Shooter Tip&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===[[System 80 / 80A / 80B Board Set]]===&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking the link above will direct you to a new page showing all of the System 80/80A/80B boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 boards 3.png‎|800px|center|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following functional block diagram depicts the main PCBs and the input/output signals between them (#n = wire count).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:sys80b_IO_lines.png|800px|center|Gottlieb® System 80/B functional blocks and I/O lines]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===[[System 80 / 80A / 80B Satellite Boards]]===&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking the link above will direct you to a new page showing all of the System 80/80A/80B satellite boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 psu.JPG‎|180px|thumb|left|System 80 / 80A Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 psu back.JPG|140px|thumb|right|System 80 / 80A Power Supply - Showing the Large Heat Sink]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 / 80A power supply is very similar to the System 1 power supply, where as the circuit board is secured to a large &amp;quot;hot plate&amp;quot; heat sink. This style power supply is used for all System 80 and 80A games from Spiderman to Ice Fever, and is the source of the following:&lt;br /&gt;
* +5 VDC logic power&lt;br /&gt;
*+8 VDC offset voltage needed for the displays&lt;br /&gt;
*+60 VDC for the 6 or 7 digit displays&lt;br /&gt;
*+42 VDC for the status display&lt;br /&gt;
*Ground from earth ground located on the transformer panel&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unlike the System 1 power supply, the +5 VDC logic power is no longer rectified and filtered on the power supply itself.  This process is now handled by a bridge rectifier and a large filtering capacitor located on the transformer panel.  The System 80 power still employs a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crowbar_%28circuit%29 crowbar circuit] for the logic power, which protects from over-voltage situations.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although these power supplies are fairly reliable, there are some drawbacks to the design.  By incorporating a large heat sink for the PMD10K40 / 2N6059 TO-3 transistor on the board, a lot of heat is dissipated throughout the whole board.  This in turn will limit the life expectancy of the other electronic components on the board.  Equally, the heat sink must be removed in order to perform component level repairs to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply==== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A sound &amp;amp; speech board (S&amp;amp;S) is used starting with Mars God of War (MGOW).  Because of the voltages needed to drive some of the components on the S&amp;amp;S board, this secondary power supply is added to the power train.  The voltages generated from this board are:&lt;br /&gt;
*+12 VDC used for the analog inverters and voice synthesizer chip&lt;br /&gt;
*-12 VDC used for the analog inverters&lt;br /&gt;
*+30 VDC used by the sound amplifier (LM379)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 sands power1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply (1st Generation)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are two different variations of this power supply.  The first style is used only with MGOW and Volcano, and is not a printed circuit board (PCB).  The electronic components were screwed to a block of wood, which is located on the left wall of the lower cabinet.  Conducting tests and repairs to this style power supply can be awkward and difficult.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 s&amp;amp;s psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply (2nd Generation)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Black Hole, the S&amp;amp;S power supply is now on a circuit board (MA-188), which is located in the head of the game with the other circuit boards.  Even though each style of S&amp;amp;S power supply uses different components for the generation of +12 VDC, the end result is the same.  The S&amp;amp;S power supply was no longer used when Gottlieb® went a step backwards, and installed the System 80A sounds only board with the piggyback board.  This change occurred during the run of Amazon Hunt.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The generation 1 and generation 2 sound board power supplies are not pin compatible. One could be exchanged for the other by rearranging connections of a 9-pin molex connector. However, this is not recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Power Supplies====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Chicago Cubs, the Gottlieb® power train went through a bit of a face lift. The System 80B platform uses two separate boards to supply power.  This design change is mainly due to the single display board, which rectifies the high voltage on the board itself.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B +5 VDC Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The small power supply with the finned heat sink is only used to generate +5 VDC for logic power.  Although, removing the heat sink is not necessary to work on the board, this power supply has its own set of issues.  First, it does not have a crow bar circuit.  If the LM338K voltage regulator fails, and fails whereas the voltage increases drastically, it can destroy electronic components on the other circuit boards.  Secondly, it&#039;s not as bad, but heat is still dissipated throughout the board.  Third, the adjustable potentiometer (pot) on the power supply is prone to failure, due to dirt, dust, and contaminants.  Finally, it is typical for the header pins on the input and output of the board to develop cracked solder joints.  The two latter problems can easily be overcome, and will be addressed in the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Repairs_for_the_System_80B_Power_Supply_Board Recommended Repairs for the System 80B Power Supply Board] section below.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b aux psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Rock, the second power supply is added, and is referred to as the auxiliary power supply. The primary functions of this board is used to power the sound board, and amplify the audio output. This sound amplifier board is used in concert with MA-766 and MA-886 sound boards. A breakdown of the voltages supplied by the auxiliary power supply are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*-12 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
*+12 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80B-MA1017AuxPowerSupply.jpg |200px|thumb|left|System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply with .156 headers versus edge connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BoneBustersSpecificAmpBoard.jpg |200px|thumb|right|A BoneBusters Inc specific Auxiliary Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This Auxiliary Power Supply board changed with the release of Bad Girls. Edge connections were no longer used. Instead, .156&amp;quot; header pins were added to the board as shown at left. Note that the System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply board is slightly different from the System 3 Auxiliary Power Supply board. The System 80B board uses a 1K ohm, 2 watt resistor at R8. The System 3 board uses a 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistor at that location.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=347 Bone Busters Inc.] uniquely used a modified Auxiliary Power Supply board as pictured at right. A connection was made between pin 12 and the intersection of R1 and R2 to connect the audio output of the second, less populated sound board to the amplifier circuitry. A 1.8K ohm 1/4 watt resistor makes the connection while balancing the audio level from this input. No other game used pin 12 or this configuration.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 cpu divided.png‎|200px|left|thumb|Gottlieb® System 80 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 CPU board is a 6502 based microprocessor system. The 6502 microprocessor (the very same one used in the first Apple computer and the Atari 2600) executes the basic operating system contained in the masked ROMs at U2/U3.  The masked ROMs at U2 and U3 have the same code for all of the different generations of the System 80 platform.  U2 and U3 code changed with the System 80A platform.  The game code &amp;quot;personality&amp;quot; augments the basic operating system PROM(s).  Early System 80 games which used two ROMs at PROM1 and PROM2 positions were masked ROMs.  Later, when the game code could be held in a single 2716, an EPROM was used instead. Battery-backed memory for audits and adjustable game parameters is added via a 5101 256x4 bit CMOS memory at Z5. &amp;quot;Scratchpad&amp;quot; memory is contained in the three 6532 RIOTs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Control of peripheral devices (in this case lamps, displays, solenoids, switches and sound) is accomplished via three 6532 RIOTs (RAM-I/O-Timer) at U4, U5, and U6. Each RIOT in turn controls it&#039;s own &amp;quot;subsystem&amp;quot; to drive these devices.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Switch matrix (U4)&lt;br /&gt;
*Displays (U5)&lt;br /&gt;
*Solenoids (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
*Lamps (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four generations of the System 80 board.  All of the CPU boards can be easily identified by their revision numbers notated just below the operator adjustable dip switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====1st Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 CPU 1st ver.JPG|240px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generation CPU is used in the first 5 System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-001&lt;br /&gt;
*DET PB03-D102-001&lt;br /&gt;
*REV B&lt;br /&gt;
This board uses two masked PROM chips for the game code.  The chips are typically labeled with the three digit game model number followed by /1 or /2, designating the game PROM position.  An example of this naming convention is shown in the pic to the left.  652/1X and 652/2X are game PROM 1 and PROM 2 for Panthera.  The &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; in this case designates a code revision.  The masked ROMs at position U2 and U3 are not socketed on this board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With some simple modifications, this board is upward compatible to use a single 2716 EPROM placed in the PROM 1 socket of the board.  With the change of U2 and U3, this board can be used in System 80A games.  The board could potentially be used in a System 80B game with many modifications, and the addition of a daughter board, however, it is not recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlySystem80MPUFactoryCutJumper.jpg|240px|thumb|left|The corrected trace layout error in the 1St generation System 80 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This generation of board has a trace layout error that was corrected by a cut and jumper which moves the trace that terminates at Z5 (5101) pin 20 from Z36 pin 10 to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 cpu front scale.png|240px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation (Front)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 cpu back scale.png|240px|thumb|right|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation (Back)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;skeletal&amp;quot;, semi-populated board scans can be very useful when having to replace or follow traces on a CPU board.  Although the scans are of the 1st generation CPU board, most areas can be used for other generation CPU boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====2nd Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Placeholder for System 80 CPU Board - 2nd Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
The second generation CPU is used in some System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-??? (check boards for the suffix)&lt;br /&gt;
*DETAIL PB03-D107-001&lt;br /&gt;
This board uses a single 2716 EPROM chip for the game code located at the PROM 1 socket position.  The chips are typically labeled with the three digit game model number.  Occasionally, the chip&#039;s game number label will be followed by /1, /2, /3, or even /4. In this case, the number following the slash is the code revision number.  An example of this naming convention is 658 /2, which is a game PROM for James Bond - code revision 2.  The masked ROMs at position U2 and U3 are not socketed on this board either.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the change of U2 and U3, this board can be used in System 80A games.  The board could potentially be used in a System 80B game with many modifications, and the addition of a daughter board, however, it again is not recommended.  The second generation CPU is backward compatible, provided a doubled up, single game PROM is used at the PROM 1 position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====3rd Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 CPU 2nd gen.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 3rd Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
The third generation CPU is used in some System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-011&lt;br /&gt;
*DETAIL PB03-D107-003&lt;br /&gt;
This board is essentially the same as the second generation board, except an eyelet ground trace was placed just above Z33 on the board.  This ground trace was never used.  All information which applies to the second generation CPU board, applies to this board.  The third generation CPU is backward compatible, provided the same is done to it as the 2nd generation board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====4th Generation CPU Board (System 80A)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80A CPU.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80A CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The fourth generation CPU is used in all System 80A games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*D 20869&lt;br /&gt;
This board is the same as the third generation board, except the U2 and U3 masked ROM chips have different code, and are now socketed.  The PROM 2 socket is no longer populated on the board.  The fourth generation CPU is backward compatible, provided the System 80 ROM code is installed at U2 and U3.  If used on a game with the 1st generation CPU, the game code must be doubled up on a 2716 EPROM, and installed at the PROM 1 position.  This board is forward compatible with System 80B, provided all of the above outlined modifications are performed.  Out of all the System 80 CPU boards, this is the most compatible with System 80B, due to using the same base circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====5th Generation CPU Board (System 80B)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80B CPU.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B CPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The fifth generation CPU is used in all System 80B games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*D 20869&lt;br /&gt;
Even though the base circuit board is identical to the fourth generation CPU board, it&#039;s being named the fifth generation board, due to all of the major changes.  The U2 and U3 masked ROM and sockets have been replaced with a piggyback daughter board soldered via header pins mounted in the U3 position.  The daughter board uses a 2764 EPROM.  Most of the related display segment and digit chips are no longer populated.  This is due to the single display board handling these functions on its own board.  The missing chips once used for the displays are Z19, Z21, Z22, Z23, Z24, and Z25. Equally, jumpers have been placed where Z19 and Z21 once resided. The fifth generation CPU is backward compatible, after the daughter board has been removed, and the missing display chips populated.  Note that there technically are two different 80B CPU boards - MA-774 and MA-1133.  The only difference between these two boards is a cut trace on the component side and a long trace wire added on the solder side from the E3 jumper to pin 35 of TC1. This modification is done to increase the ROM size of PROM 2 from a 2716 to a 2732.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Any of the Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A / 80B CPU boards are compatible cross platform.  It&#039;s just matter of how much work must be done to modify each board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====U2/U3 ROM Part Numbers====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80ROMs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80 ROMs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All Gottlieb System 80 U2/U3 ROMs will be labeled as pictured at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U2 is labeled &amp;quot;R3273-12&amp;quot; on the center line. The top line is the part number, a 2332 ROM. The bottom line is the date code, in this case, the 15th week of 1981.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U3 is labeled &amp;quot;R3272-12&amp;quot; on the center line. The top line is the part number, a 2332 ROM. The bottom line is the date code, in this case, the 12th week of 1981.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80AROMs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80A ROMs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb System 80A ROMs may be labeled in a few different ways since Gottlieb used several manufacturers to provide the ROMs. A clear indication that the ROMs are for System 80A games is that somewhere in the labeling, &amp;quot;XO-326 U2&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;XO-327 U3&amp;quot; will be shown as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 drvr pw.png|160px|thumb|left|The System 80A / 80B Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Driver board is responsible for all controlled lamps, relays, and all solenoids in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via a simple interface between A1J4 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.  Although the driver board went through some minor changes over the years, the same board can be adapted for all of the System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; total of 52 &#039;&#039;&#039;lamp circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the interface provides &amp;quot;device select&amp;quot; signals for each of the 74175s (Quad-D Flip-Flops) on the driver board, and 4 &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; of data that is loaded (or &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot;) into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives an MPS-A13 or MPS-U45 transistor, (NDS-U45 transistors were used in place of MPS-U45s in some cases). Gottlieb® did not implement a &amp;quot;lamp matrix&amp;quot; as some other manufacturers did.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that there are some dedicated lamp transistors, which control specific game relays across the System 80 / 80A platforms.  Relays such as the game over, tilt, and coin lockout relays are controlled by Q1, Q2, and Q3 respectively.  The tilt and game over relays use the same designation for the System 80B platform, however, the use of a coin lockout relay was abandoned by this time. One neat feature of the driver board circuitry is that lamp &amp;quot;n&amp;quot; is driven by transistor Q&amp;quot;n+1&amp;quot;. i.e. L12 is driven by Q13.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_drvr_board_coin_ctrs.JPG|160px|thumb|left|Driver Board with Coin Counter Transistors Highlighted ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;solenoids circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the driver board uses signals directly from the CPU to enable transistors on the driver board which turn on up to 9 solenoids.  For solenoid control, the driver board uses MPS-U45, 2N3055, and 2N6043 transistors.  Starting and ending with the System 80 platform, (games from Spiderman to Haunted House), three transistors were reserved to drive optional mechanical coin counters. These mechanical coin counter solenoids and associated transistors are: solenoid 3 (Q54), 4 (Q55), and 7 (Q56). Starting with the System 80A platform, (Devil&#039;s Dare), these transistors were no longer reserved for coin counters, and were used for other functions. Equally, the 3 diodes associated with these 3 transistors were changed to 3 zero ohm jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;sound&#039;&#039;&#039; signals (S1, S2, S4, S8) also pass through the driver board at Z13, a 7404 Hex Inverter. See below for S16 and S32.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Repurposed Driver Board Circuits====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb under pf transistor.JPG‎|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Remote Transistor Mounted Under the Playfield]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since quite a few System 80 games employ more than 9 solenoids, and since the original driver board design will drive a maximum of 9 solenoids, Gottlieb® repurposed some lamp outputs to drive &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot; which drive additional solenoids.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb ma1011 trans board.JPG‎|160px|thumb|left| A Typical Transistor Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once playfields became littered with numerous &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot;, Gottlieb® opted to merge some of these transistors into a transistor driver board.  The transistor driver board started to appear on Gottlieb® games nearly midway through the System 80B platform, with the game Victory.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound S16 and S32 signals are also repurposed lamp outputs. For instance, Haunted House and Black Hole both repurpose L9 to S16. Robo-War repurposes lamp 4 to S16. Note that S16 is not consistently implemented across the System 80 family. Note also that references to the usage of S32 are difficult to find.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Lamp Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb aux lamp 5.JPG|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Aux. Lamp Driver Board Using MPS-U45 Transistors (Maximum Control of 10 Lamps]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb aux lamp MA866 2N6043.JPG|140px|thumb|right| A Typical Aux. Lamp Driver Board Using 2N6043 Transistors (Controls a Maximum of 20 Lamps]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Time Line, several System 80/80A/80B platform games use auxiliary lamp driver boards.  These boards are commonly referred to as &amp;quot;chaser boards&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;lamp chaser boards&amp;quot;.  The reason for either of these nicknames is because these boards are used to control lamps for effect.  They are either placed in the backbox or under the playfield.  With later System 80B games, they were located in the lower cabinet.  Location is typically dependent upon what lamps are being controlled.  The aux. lamp driver boards are not controlled by the CPU.  The only signals needed for an aux. lamp driver board to function is +5V and ground.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several different variants of auxiliary lamp driver boards used.  The earliest versions use MPS-U45 transistors to control a maximum of three lamps per transistor.  Both 15 and 30 lamp versions (5 or 10 transistors) of this board exist.  Some later boards use NDS-U45 transistors instead of MPS-U45 transistors.  It is assumed this is due to a the cost or lack of MPS-U45 transistors during production.  Either of these style of boards are interchangeable with one another.  Finally, there are some boards used in later games which use 2N6043 transistors.  These are designed to control #67 flashlamps, but this is not always the case.  This style board was used to control lamps also.  These boards are equally compatible with previous designed boards, when used as a complete, drop-in replacement.  However, MPS-U45, NDS-U45, and CEN-U45 transistors are not 1-to-1 compatible with 2N6043 transistors.  A viable replacement transistor for the 2N6043 is the TIP102.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main difference between any of the auxiliary lamp boards is the amount of transistors used to drive lamps, and the resistor (R13) used to control the rate at which the lamps flash or &amp;quot;chase&amp;quot;.  Boards using 2N6043 transistors have different resistor values for resistors R2-R11 than boards which use MPS-U45s or NDS-U45s.  A table of auxiliary lamp driver boards used on most games is shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Total Transistors&lt;br /&gt;
!Total Lamps Controlled&lt;br /&gt;
!R13 Resistor Value&lt;br /&gt;
!Controls&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Line|| ||10||?||820K Ohm||Chaser lamps behind nuclear symbol on backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Mars:God of War|| ||10||28||330K Ohm||Backglass perimeter chaser lamps||In backbox||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mars:God of War|| ||5||10 (LEDs)||330K Ohm||LEDs behind tube||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano|| ||10||20||560K Ohm||Upper backglass perimeter chaser lamps and volcano effect behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Black Hole|| ||10||28||270K Ohm||Backglass perimeter chaser lamps||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Haunted House||MA-234||10||21||270K Ohm||Behind backglass lightning effect lamps||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky|| ||10||19||560K Ohm||Behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spirit|| ||10||20||Varies||Behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tag Team Pinball|| ||10||20||820K Ohm||Multiball insert illumination||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock|| ||10||18||680K Ohm||Extra ball insert path||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock Encore|| ||10||18||680K Ohm||Extra ball insert path||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Raven|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Inserts leading to ramp||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hollywood Heat|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Ramp insert illumination||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| ||10||10 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||In top of backbox ||Under PF||Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| ||10||10 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Around playfield window ||Under PF||Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||8 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Flashers in topper ||Under PF||1 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||6 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Flashers in topper ||Under PF||2 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||10||680K Ohm||Inserts leading to ramp ||Under PF||3 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| ||10||5||680K Ohm||Behind $10,000,000 sign||Under PF||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| ||10||30||680K Ohm||Lamps around perimeter of topper||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| ||10||30||680K Ohm||In topper||Under PF||1 of 2; only if topper present?&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Special shot and shooter loop||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Arena||MA-936||None||10 (LEDs)||560K Ohm||LED strip under shooter lane wireform ||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| ||10||10 (#86 bulbs)||680K Ohm||Next to left ramp||Under PF||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| ||10||10 (#86 bulbs)||680K Ohm||Next to right ramp||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diamond Lady||MA-789||10||5||680K Ohm||Loop right of the ramp||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Inserts in lower portion of playfield ||Lower cabinet||(1 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| ||10||10 ||680K Ohm||Under playfield glass stop||Lower cabinet||(2 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| ||10||5||680K Ohm||Drop target illumination ||Lower cabinet||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| ||10||10 ||10M Ohm||Under playfield glass stop||Lower cabinet||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters||MA-789||10||12||680K Ohm||Playfield inserts ||Under PF||(1 of 2) Uses NSD-U45&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters||MA-866||10||20 (#67 flashers)||680K Ohm||Backbox lamp insert||In backbox||(2 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® uses different sound boards throughout the course of all System 80 platforms.  Several of the sound boards cross platforms too.  Out of all of the sound boards used, there is really only about three base units total with variations made to each one.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sounds Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound Board MA-55 (Sounds only)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first System 80 sound board is capable of sound only.  Based on the 6503 CPU architecture, this sound board is very similar to the System 1 Multi-Mode sound board.  However, there are a couple of differences between the two boards.  First, the +12VDC is no longer rectifed on the sound board.  The +12VDC power comes from the power supply.  Secondly, the +5VDC is no longer regulated on the sound board. The System 80 sound receives +5VDC from the power supply also.  Finally, the pin outs for the System 1 sound board and the System 80 sound board are completely different.  Even though either board will plug into either platform,  &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT PLUG A SYSTEM 1 SOUND BOARD INTO A SYSTEM 80 GAME AND VICE VERSA!!!&#039;&#039;&#039;  If this is done, bad stuff will happen.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, there are two chips on this style of board which are very difficult to source. This sound board uses a 6503 CPU and 6530 RIOT chip with special embedded code. 6530 chips marked with R3016-11 are for this System 80 sound board. 6530 chips marked with a R3014-12 or R3014-13 are for the earlier System 1 sound board. The two chips are not cross-compatible since they each have different code embedded in them for each game system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to being used in early System 80 games, this sounds-only board was also used in the export versions of Black Hole, Volcano, and Devil&#039;s Dare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is missing or cannot be repaired, there are daughter boards and aftermarket boards available.  A daughter board called the &amp;quot;[https://coinop.mally.eu/produkt.php?bestellnr=101647&amp;amp;details=1 MIOT adapter]&amp;quot; is a replacement for the 6530 chip for both System 1 and System 80 sounds boards, produced in Germany. Pascal Janin in France has made a replacement sound board for both the original 2nd generation sound boards, and combination System 1 2nd gen boards / System 80/80A sound boards. These boards can purchased directly from Pascal - [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx1.php 2nd gen sound] &amp;amp; [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php combination Sys1 / Sys80/80A sound] . Although Pascal does not have US distributors, [http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/flippp.html Big Daddy Enterprises], sometimes has these sound boards available too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Prototype Sounds Only Board as found in System 80 Hulk&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Images below capture a factory original Sounds only board prototype, complete with cuts (on component side) and jumpers (on solder side). Note the sound ROM marking of &amp;quot;500&amp;quot;, the game number assigned to the System 80 Hulk prototype (10 units built). Also note the &amp;quot;extra&amp;quot; 24 pin IC labeled 7681-5 in the center of the board. This IC is not present on production versions of this board. Just a guess, but since this board has a 6532 installed vs the production 6530 (40 pin IC), the 7681 appears to be ROM space to drive the sound program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=450px heights=250px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 Hulk Prototype Sound Only Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80HulkSoundsOnlyBoardFront.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Component side. Note &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot; at pin 21 of the center 24 pin IC.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80HulkSoundsOnlyBoardBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Solder side. Note factory green jumpers.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80&amp;amp;a s&amp;amp;s.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A B-20887-2 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Front.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A B-20887-3 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Mars God of War, the second System 80 sound board has the capability of speech.  Ironically, this board is commonly referred to as the &amp;quot;sound and speech board&amp;quot;, and was brought over from the Gottlieb® video game division at the time.  Fortunately, Gottlieb® chose the 6502 CPU architecture just like the CPU board.  There is a 6532 RIOT used also.  The downside to this board is the now rare LM379S amp and SC-01 phoneme speech chip are both difficult to acquire.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are approximately three renditions of this board.  Each will be marked with [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Different_Revisions_of_the_Sound_and_Speech_Boards B-20887-X].  The &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; denotes a suffix of 1, 2, or 3.  If the board has [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap wire wrap] or resistors added to the solder side of the board, do not assume that it is some sort of diabolical, weird hack.  These were recommended upgrades either done by the factory or out in the field.  With each higher revision number, less wire wrap and resistors are present on the solder side of the board.  However, each board revision typically has some degree of wire wrap added to it.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics corresponding to the -1 revision of the board can be found in the Mars, God of War and Volcano manuals. Schematics corresponding to the -3 revision of the board can be found in the Black Hole and Haunted House manuals.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A Sound Board w/ MA-483 Piggyback Board (replaces LM379S amp)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback.JPG|130px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® MA-483 Piggyback Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To reduce costs, Gottlieb® abandoned the speech option, and went a step backwards with a board generating sounds only.  In doing so, they used the same B-20887-3 base board as the most current sound and speech board.  The SC-01 speech chip socket in addition to the 74xx TTL chips, one of the LM741 op amps, and discrete components associated with the speech circuit were not installed on the board.  By the time this board was first used, the LM379S amp was too costly and difficult to source.  The solution was to add a single-side, piggyback board (as shown in the picture) with a TDA2002 amplifier and other necessary components.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this board is used as a replacement in a game which uses a sound &amp;amp; speech power supply, (Haunted House for example), modifications to the s&amp;amp;s power supply must be made.  This is due to the higher voltages necessary to operate the LM379S amp versus the TDA2002.  If this board is installed in a game where the sound and speech board power supply was not modified, the guarantee of destroying the TDA2002 amp is inevitable.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Only Board with Piggyback====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80a&amp;amp;b sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A / 80B Sound Board MA-490 w/ MA-488 Piggyback Board (Sounds only)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb piggyback sound factory trace wire.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80A / 80B Sound Board w/ Factory Trace Wire]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To reduce costs even more, Gottlieb® started using a modified sound only board, which was first used with Spiderman in 1980.  This &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; sound board was first used during the production of Amazon Hunt, and continued until Tag Team Pinball. The main modification of the board was the addition of a piggyback board.  The piggyback board was used to increase the size of the sound ROM by using a 2716 EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Two other noteworthy modifications are an added factory trace wire on the solder side of the board, and a cut trace between pin 8 of U7 (7404) and a header pin on the component side of the board. The added trace wire runs from pin 3 of U1 (6503 CPU) to pin 18 of U2 (piggyback header pins).  Both of these modifications should remain intact for the board to function properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is also worth mentioning that this is one of the few instances where Gottlieb® used a double-sided piggyback board.  The benefit of using a double-sided board is the decreased chance of cracked header pins, where the header pins attach to the underside of the piggyback board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (two button)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-766 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
And now for something completely different.  Well, not really.  The MA-766 sound board hit the scene with Rock, but a similar design was already used prior by the Gottlieb® video game division (Mylstar) when it existed.  It is based on the 6502 CPU architecture, but uses two 6502s instead of one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Two momentary push button switches are present on the board - SW1 and SW2.  Upon pushing SW1, the sound board should output a single blip (tone).  SW2 is used to manually reset the CPU on the sound board.  A bank of 4 dipswitches is located adjacent to SW1.  Dipswitches 1-3 should always be off, while dipswitch 4 should remain on for proper function.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (one button)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTBMA886SoundDepop.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886 Sound Board, only partially populated (found in Big House, Hollywood Heat, Bad Girls, etc.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 board is essentially the same as the previous sound board, except it uses 2 separate .156&amp;quot; header pin connections instead of edge connectors for inputs / outputs. Some other obvious changes are the omission of momentary test button SW1, the omission of the 4-bank dipswitch, the omission of YROM2 socket. In addition, a socket is sometimes populated at position S4 and neither AY-3-8913 orator chip is populated.  Momentary test button SW2 is still preset, and is still used to manually reset the board&#039;s processor.  The lack of YROM2 is because the MA-886 board allows for the use of larger EPROMs.  The S4 socket has been added on some boards, and is used to transfer data via a ribbon cable to an auxiliary sound board (MA-1033 or MA-1294). These boards also stuff R58 with a 10K 1/4W resistor and may have JP8 cut or not stuffed.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Bone Busters Sound Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MA766-719A.jpg ‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886-719A Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886-719A sound board (also noted as MA-1299-719 in the manual) is an additional sound board found only in Bone Busters. It is based on the MA-886 sound board, but it is a stripped down version with much fewer populated components.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Amazon Hunt II Sound Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-982 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-982 sound board is used only in the conversion game: Amazon II. It is based on the MA-886 sound board, but it is a stripped down version with much fewer populated components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Auxiliary Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
There are two versions of the auxiliary sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MA1033AuxSound.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1033 Auxiliary Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-1033 auxiliary sound board was used in System 80B games including: Bad Girls, Big House, and Hot Shots, as well as one System 3 game: Lights, Camera, Action.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys3 sound MA-1294.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1294 Auxiliary Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-1294 auxiliary sound board was only used in one System 80B game, Bone Busters, as well as System 3 games including: Hoops, Bell Ringer, Silver Slugger, Car Hop, Deadly Weapon, Title Fight, and Vegas.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Speakers===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Panthera Head Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Typical speaker located in the head of a System 80 game (Panthera)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games use a dual speaker system.  In most cases, (where there is a grill above the backglass), there is a 6-1/2&amp;quot;, 8 ohm, low wattage speaker in the lower cabinet, and a second one in the head, behind the grill in the backbox.  Some games, like Haunted House, have two speakers in the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB-80a-the-games-speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Single speaker from an 80A game (The Games)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;System 80A games may have two speakers or just one. Again, these are 6-1/2&amp;quot;, 4 ohm, low wattage speakers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Tag Team Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Single speaker from an early 80B game (Tag Team)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 80B games, Chicago Cubs, Tag Team, and Bounty Hunter, all use a single 6-1/2&amp;quot; 4 ohm speaker in the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Rock, 80Bs use a 6-1/4&amp;quot; in the cabinet and a small speaker on the left of the display panel.  The last few 80B games, where the speaker panel is located above the translite, use three speakers total (2 above the translite and 1 in the lower cabinet).&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GottliebSixDigitDisplay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 6 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 6 digit display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 6 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80=====&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is step number 19 System 80 games. Each display, including the credit/match display participates in &amp;quot;walking&amp;quot; each digit (0 through 9 beginning with 0) across each display. The &amp;quot;walking&amp;quot; begins at the match side of the credit/match display, then moves to players 1 and 3, then to players 2 and 4. After a &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is walked through all displays, the cycle starts again with &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 7 digit display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A 7 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 7 digit display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80A 7 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80A=====&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is step number 19 System 80A games. Each display lights every position, and advances through all of the numbers starting with &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and ending with &amp;quot;9&amp;quot;.  Once &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is reached, the process starts over at &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; again.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayFront.jpg‎|260px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-644 Display Component Side]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayBack.jpg‎|260px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-644 Display Solder Side]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games introduced the 20 alphanumeric character dual line display module. These displays evolved over time. The one pictured here was used in games Chicago Cubs Triple Play until Excalibur. The two large ICs found on this board (Rockwell 10941 segment driver and Rockwell 10939 digit driver) are long obsolete and very hard to obtain. Other components on the board are readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board rectifies 32VAC via diodes CR1-CR4 to produce -45VDC and -15VDC for use by the segment and digit drivers. Should one or more of these diodes fail, the foil trace on the board sometimes acts like a fuse, and burns itself up. The picture at right shows a board that experienced this failure, along with a jumper to repair the damaged trace.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:GTB_80B_Large_AlphN_Display.JPG|260px|thumb|left|Gottlieb System 80B MA-999 Alpha-Numeric Display Board with header pin connections. (Bad Girls)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The last System 80B games (Hot Shots, Big House, Bad Girls, and Bone Busters) all used a larger alphanumeric vacuum fluorescent display assembly.  This type of display used two sets of .156&amp;quot; header pins instead of the more familiar edge connection.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80B=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb alphanum display test.gif|thumb|left|160px|Simulation of System 80B display test]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is test number 20 for System 80B.  All 40 of the alpha-numeric &amp;quot;digits&amp;quot; (both the top and bottom displays) will light starting with a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;, next a &amp;quot;+&amp;quot;, then an &amp;quot;X&amp;quot;, and finally a &amp;quot;,&amp;quot;.  In doing this, all possible segments of all the display digits are lit at one point during display test.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Reset Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 reset.JPG|thumb|left|160px|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80B MA-980 Reset Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Newer Reset Board.jpg|thumb|right|160px|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1143 Reset/Anti-Static Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Devil&#039;s Dare, the first System 80A game, the reset board became a staple of the Gottlieb® design to automatically reset the CPU board should the CPU lock up.  Apparently games locking up on location was an issue with System 80 games.  The reset board was created to resolve this issue, should the game lock up, and no one is present to manually reset the game by shutting it off and turning it back on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-980 reset board is a small footprint PCB with the board designation of A24, and is located adjacent to the TC1 connector of the CPU board.  The connection on the reset board is A24P1, while the connection for TC1 of the CPU board is A24P2.  As long as someone can turn the game off, should it lock up, there is no need to keep the reset board connected.  In most cases, the aged reset boards are more troublesome if allowed to remain connected.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTBResetBoardConnector.jpg|thumb|left|160px|Connection at TC1 to the reset board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB_RW_3K_Pullup.JPG|thumb|right|160px|A 3.0Kohm resistor, added between pins 7 and 11 of TC1.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Along with adding the reset board, Gottlieb® added a 3.0Kohm resistor across pins 7 and 11 of the reset board connection at MPU connector TC1. If not using the reset board, it&#039;s advised to add this resistor to the back of the board, as shown at right. This resistor pulls the R/W (read/write) line high when not pulled down by the 6502.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using connector A24-P2, do not add the 3.0Kohm resistor.  Doing so will change the effective resistance to 1.5Kohms (value of resistors in parallel).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reset board connector also has a 1N270 diode soldered to it. There is no need to add this diode to the MPU since it&#039;s part of the reset board function.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;More Regarding the 3Kohm Pullup Resistor&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Most MPU boards will work without the reset board but some MPU boards do refuse to work without the Read/Write pullup resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 3K resistor was added for two reasons:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#It provides a stable Read/Write signal at power-up. There is a tiny fraction of time at power up where data can be written into Z5 but due to gate Z36A, this data write is prevented. The resistor does provide a proper biasing to the Read/Write line at time of powerup.&lt;br /&gt;
#More importantly - A Rockwell 6502 has a minimum VOH of 2.4volts, a 4069 requires a minimum VIH of 4 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In other words:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The Read/Write output from U1 (pin 34) guarantees the output will be 2.4 volts or higher for a logic 1.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The 4069 located at Z36D (pin 9 input of Z36) requires the input to be 4 volts or higher for a logic 1.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The 3K pullup resistor pulls the Z36D input closer to the required voltage range.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do realize that even though this problem exists on all System 80/80A/80B boards but only a very small fraction of these Gottlieb boards exhibit any symptoms. The chances that you have one if these that exhibit symptoms is quite slim.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Initial Troubleshooting===&lt;br /&gt;
When attempting to troubleshoot a malfunctioning or non-booting game, there are a few initial steps to perform before diving into more serious troubleshooting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# If the MPU has damage from a leaking battery, it will need to be addressed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off all the edge connector contacts using a pink rubber eraser. This will remove any tarnish or grime that has built up over the years. Do not use sandpaper or fiberglass erasers on the contacts--they will only thin the material. There is a small risk that rubbing the eraser on the contacts will dislodge one of them, but this is very uncommon to see happen on system 80 boards.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check all the fuses using a multimeter in diode/continuity mode. Do not rely on a visual inspection. Sometimes a fuse will appear to be intact, but actually may be blown. Fuses are located near the transformer and on the underside of the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check voltages on the fuses near the transformer to make sure they are as expected.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the power supply voltages and make sure that they are as expected. 5v may need to be adjusted to 5.03v to ensure that the MPU recieves the necessary power it needs in order to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be sure to [[#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness|install the two jumper wires in the interconnect harness]] between the driver board and MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These steps may help address a number of common issues before proceeding to some of the more specific problems that can occur with system 80 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connectors, Connectors, Connectors===&lt;br /&gt;
Connectors, connectors, connectors!!!  Since the Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B boardset primarily relies on Molex connectors to pass data and voltages from board to board, the connectors should be addressed first.  Before even attempting to turn a Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B game on for the first time, worn or corroded edge connector contacts must be replaced.  Cleaning or burnishing connector contacts is not a viable option to ensure a game&#039;s reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Poor connector contacts are the number one reason why System 80/80A/80B games do not function properly.  Poor or missing connector contacts have a cascading effect too.  The end results of bad connector contacts can be, but are not limited to:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*voltages which mysteriously disappear and reappear&lt;br /&gt;
*increased resistance &lt;br /&gt;
*specific switches not functioning&lt;br /&gt;
*lamps locking on&lt;br /&gt;
*lamps not turning on&lt;br /&gt;
*displays not properly functioning&lt;br /&gt;
*coils not turning on&lt;br /&gt;
*coils locking on&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU boards not booting, booting sporadically, or randomly resetting&lt;br /&gt;
*driver boards not functioning or functioning sporadically&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, it is very important that the connector contacts are shiny, have proper spring tension, and are properly crimped for the over all reliability of the game.  Random, flaky issues which happen either sporadically or all the time are attributed to poor connector contacts in nearly every case.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=450px heights=100px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 Connector (J6), The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80ConnectorBadPins.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;An example of pins in desperate need of rehab.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80ConnectorGoodPins.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ahhh...Much nicer after repinning.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SandedGottliebEdgeConnector.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Sanded (or possibly bare from the factory) card edge contacts will corrode and degrade the electrical connection.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File: GottliebEdgeConnectorRehab.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The two connector pads on the left have been lightly scratched with the fiberglass pencil. Even the small bit of oxidation or corrosion shown on the remaining pins is enough to prevent a connection.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A common (poor) practice is to sand the card edge contacts to the bare copper as shown at left. While this may alleviate issues in the short term, longer term the copper will oxidize and cause more problems. All copper oxidizes. Copper is beautiful on building rooftops when first installed but oxidizes to a light green patina over time. Card edge contacts will do the same thing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the card edge contacts aren&#039;t bright and shiny, they can be cleaned off with a pink rubber eraser or lightly scratched with a fiberglass pencil. This will remove oxidation and grime without harming or thinning the finger contacts. If the contacts are corroded (due to battery damage) or have divots in them, lightly sand them, then re-tin them with a thin coat of solder. Either suck the excess solder off with a solder sucker or when heated, wipe the solder off with a rag. Avoid heating the card edge contacts too much as they will detach from the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing (Repinning) System 80 Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
Replacing connectors in a pinball machine somehow adopted the term repinning. Repinning a System 80 connector housing isn&#039;t too bad overall.  On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 (1 being the easiest to do) compared to all other makes and platforms made, System 80 connector replacement is about a 3.  One benefit regarding the System 80 IDC housings is that they are reusable.  Below are the steps to remove the connector from its housing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*First, grasp the housing in one hand.  Use a small &amp;quot;pocket&amp;quot; flat blade screwdriver. add pic later---&amp;gt; (http://www.absorbentprinting.com/tools-and-knives/screwdrivers/pocket-screwdrivers/level-rite-regular-blade-options).&lt;br /&gt;
*Next, push the connector&#039;s ear down, so the connector can be released.&lt;br /&gt;
*Finally, pull gently but firmly on the wire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes the connector comes out, and sometimes the wire pops out of the connector.  If the latter, use a small jeweler&#039;s screwdriver to gently pry the very end of the connector against the rectangular opening in the connector housing.  You&#039;re trying to get the IDC &amp;quot;ears&amp;quot; of the connector to clear the housing.  Sometimes the connector will easily come right out.  If it doesn&#039;t, use small needle nose pliers, and grab the &amp;quot;ear&amp;quot; of the connector, and pull it out.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Molex11-03-0016.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Molex Contact Extraction Tool, Molex part number 11-03-0016]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some system 80 connector housings are &amp;quot;double sided&amp;quot; edge connectors. All of the connector housings that are double sided are black from the factory (blue colored housings are typically Jamma connectors used as replacements, and do not apply to this section of this guide).  To remove pins from these connector housings, you need a pricey yet effective tool called a Molex contact extraction tool, (commonly referred to as a Molex extractor). The Molex part number for the extractor is 11-03-0016, and can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=11-03-0016&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= Great Plains Electronics] or other electronics vendors.  Slide the extractor behind the pin to release the &amp;quot;tang&amp;quot; that holds the pin in. Firmly grip the wire and pull the pin out of the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A YouTube video of the repinning process can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hErTlsFOMw4&amp;amp;t=5s here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate Method of Replacing (Repinning) System 80 Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateRepin1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The repinning on a single sided connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateRepin2.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The repinning on a double sided connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80 (and most System 1) connectors do not have the slot for depressing the pin ear. Most guides (as in the previous section) recommend purchasing a somewhat pricey tool to insert into the connector and depress the ear. This procedure is tedious and takes a bit of practice. If you have a decently equipped shop which includes a drill press, repinning these connectors using the following steps might be easier for you. Using this procedure, you can expect to replace each pin in less then a minute. I repinned an entire A1-J4 / A3-J1 harness in about 40 mins.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The procedure is to drill out the depression ear and pull out the pin:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Install a 1/16&amp;quot; bit in your drill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Set up a jig by clamping a straight edge to your drill press table. Set the jig so the hole will be 1/4&amp;quot; from the edge of the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
* Drill through the plastic housing on the back/bottom side.&lt;br /&gt;
* When you feel resistance from the metal pin, gently continue to drill until you feel and hear it destroy the pin ear.&lt;br /&gt;
* Repeat for the remaining pins.&lt;br /&gt;
* Gently pull wire by hand and it will come out very easily. Pliers shouldn&#039;t be required.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The newly installed pins ears will correctly lock in place regardless of the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The CPU / Driver Board Interconnect Harness===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 harn2.JPG|200px|thumb|left|The A1-J4 / A3-J1 Interconnect Harness]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 harn1.JPG|200px|thumb|right|The A1-J4 / A3-J1 Interconnect Harness]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are 33 discrete signals which pass from the CPU board to the driver board via this connection.  Two of the connectors pass ground and +5v logic to the driver board [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness (two more can be added)].  The remaining signals are for lamp, solenoid, relay and sound control.  It is &#039;&#039;&#039;extremely important&#039;&#039;&#039; to have solid connectors installed in the CPU / driver board interconnect harness.  Without decent connections, lamps, coils, relays, and sound can either lock on or not turn on at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Adding Ground and 5V Connections to Interconnect Harness====&lt;br /&gt;
Yet one more power/ground update to make is to &amp;quot;double up&amp;quot; the 5VDC and ground connections between the MPU and the driver board. The OEM harness contains only one connection between the MPU and driver board for 5VDC and one connection for logic ground. This is an easy upgrade since spare connection positions are available in the connectors that lead to the correct edge contacts on each board.  Approximately 8 inches of wire and four bifurcated crimp on pins (bifurcated style, Molex 4366 series, Product Family KK, product ID: 08-03-0304 at [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=4366&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= Great Plains Electronics]) are needed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Crimp a pin to each end of each wire. The connectors at each end should face opposite directions. Doing this will avoid twisting the wire as you insert the pins into the connector housing. In the picture below, the red wire carries 5VDC, blue wire carries logic ground. These colors were chosen for illustrative purposes only. Any color wire will do, of course.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=170px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;MPU-to-Driver Board Harness Upgrade&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessUpgradeWires.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pins crimped to extra wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessSlots.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Spare pin positions in harness.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessUpgraded.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5VDC and ground upgraded.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Ground updates===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80/80A/80B Boards ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the Gottlieb® System 80 board set was designed, for whatever reason, the designers did not physically attach each board to a common ground plane via a conductive back panel, standoffs and screws as Bally and Williams did. Instead, Gottlieb® relied on connectors and wires between each board to create a common ground. A poor connection due to dirty/damaged/fatigued connector pins will sever the ground between system components resulting in all sorts of odd behavior.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this problem, it is important to examine each connector to ensure each pin is clean, and making solid contact with the card edge conductor. The ultimate (and recommended) insurance is to add an additional wire from each board&#039;s ground to a common ground point. Historically, the recommended location to join separate board grounds is at the power supply. That ground is then connected to the ground strip or transformer assembly in the cabinet bottom.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System80 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Recommended Board Ground Wire Locations&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80_PSU_Ground.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80/80A Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80bPowerSupplyGroundMod.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B 5V Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80BAuxiliaryPowerSupplyCardEdge.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80a cpu brd grd.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;MPU Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80ab drvr brd grd.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Driver Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80 sound added ground.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80 Sound Only Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sound Speech ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound and Speech Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sound Speech power sup ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound and Speech Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb piggyback sound ground add.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80A/80B Sound Only Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GottliebSoundBoardGroundMod.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Sound Board (edge connector)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80SoundBoardHeaderGrounds.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Sound Board (header connector)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Aux Board Ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chaser Lamp Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another design decision was to provide separate ground wires for groups of lamps and coils on the driver board. There are several variations used to tie the driver board lamp and solenoid discrete ground wires to the ground plane.  The most common method Gottlieb® used was passing the ground wires through a large, inline Molex connector. If a group of lamps and/or coils are not working, there is a significant probability that a ground is missing.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80GroundsTiedTogether.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Tying all board ground together at a single point, on a System 80 or 80A game.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80B_BoardGrounds_Added.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Using the 5VDC power supply heatsink as a tie point to add ground mods to a &amp;quot;non-foil&amp;quot; back panel game.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once all of the board grounds have been installed, tie them all together to a single point, as shown at left on a Gottlieb System 80 or 80A game. Here, one of the screws on the power supply is a handy attach point. Note that the coating on the cold plate at that screw point should be sanded bare, as discussed in step 9 of this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Updates_and_Repairs_for_the_System_80.2F80A_Power_Supply_Board procedure].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For 80B games with &amp;quot;non-foil&amp;quot; back panels, one method is to use the +5V power supply heatsink as a tie point. Run a lead from the heatsink to the lower right bolt in the backbox. This bolt will have the factory ground straps secured to it. Make sure to sand or use a Dremel to remove the anodized coating from the heatsink where the grounds will be connected. This implementation eases subsequent board removal as fewer &amp;quot;eyelets&amp;quot; are involved to remove a specific board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The other method, and a good alternative for 80B games with the &amp;quot;foil&amp;quot; back panel where the heat sink is isolated from the back panel with nylon dual sided washers, is to use wires long enough to tie each board to the lower right bolt in the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80GroundTiedToCabinetGround.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Connecting all the grounds to cabinet ground (green/yellow wire).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the grounds all tied together at the power supply, tie that ground to the ground strip in the cabinet bottom. In the picture at left, the wire joined to all other grounds at the power supply is tied to a cabinet ground point (in this case the speaker housing). Cabinet ground points generally have a green wire with yellow tracer attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80GroundStrap.jpg|left|thumb|200px|System 80 Cabinet Bottom Ground Strip]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The bottom board ground strap is where all grounds should come together for System 80 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Grounds Improvements for System 80A at Transformer Panel=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80A Grounds Cabinet Bottom Ground Strip]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Grounds Alien Star After.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Alien Star)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® did secure the grounds correctly on one particular game.  As seen in the adjacent pic, the grounds on Alien Star were attached discretely on the transformer panel.  These ground lines did not pass through a Molex connector like games before or games after.  Why Gottlieb® did not continue this practice is unknown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80B====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80A / 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;The Games&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Bounty Hunter&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
After Alien Star, Gottlieb® either soldered wire leads directly to the male spade connector board on the transformer panel (games like Chicago Cubs), or used female spade connectors (games like The Games, Touchdown, and Ice Fever), and used square, inline 9-pin Molex connectors to connect to the wiring harness. These connections, if the pins in the connectors are in good shape, are solid and do not require upgrade or modification.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-touchdown-transformer-panel.jpg|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Touchdown)&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Grounds Cubs.jpg|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Chicago Cubs Triple Play)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;Tag Team Pinball&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Spring Break&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Ground connections used on System 80B games from Rock to Spring Break are the most unreliable style of ground connections Gottlieb® ever used.  These connections consist of two (sometimes three) small boards each with two gangs of 9-pin male connections. The boards are fastened to the left side of the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis.  One problem with this is that the 9-pin female connection becomes loose, and in turn, ground connections become intermittent.  Another problem is the male pins on the boards suffer from cracked solder connections.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One common symptom of poor ground connections is multiple solenoids not functioning.  If removing the 9-pin Molex plug from the ground board, rotating it 90 degrees, and reconnecting it causes non-working solenoids to function, the ground connections are bad. Whether or not this test proves that the ground connections are bad, it is highly recommended to improve the ground connections for future reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purpose of these changes is to remove one potentially failed connection out of the equation.  The grounds will then be secured directly to the transformer chassis via solderless eyelet crimp connectors.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System3 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].  Below are the steps to properly upgrade the grounds.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Gottlieb® System 80B Ground Upgrades (Tag Team Pinball to Spring Break)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb_sys80b_trans_ground_01.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The stock ground connections plugged into the ground connection boards on the left side of the transformer panel.  This pic is a view from the left side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 02.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Remove all connections from the transformer panel.  Then, unscrew the four 5/16&amp;quot; hex head screws which secure the transformer panel from the bottom of the cabinet.  Turn the transformer panel on its side.  This will allow better access to secure the ring terminals to the side of the chassis.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 03.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut all of the ground wires as close as possible to the 9-pin connection.  Remove the two boards with the 9-pin male wafer connections.  As can be seen in the pic, Gottlieb® did actually secure the discrete transformer panel grounds to the panel&#039;s chassis with a single, soldered eyelet connector.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 04.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All the ground wires are to have their insulation stripped back longer than usual - approximately 3/4&amp;quot;.  Solderless ring terminals are crimped onto the ground wires.  The connections used in this particular application are Motormite #85443.  Motormite brand does not have to be used.  This particular brand and part number are mentioned due to the difficulty in finding the correct connectors to use. Most common ring terminals have a #10 or larger screw eyelet, which will not work effectively, if the eyelets are fastened to the side of the transformer panel chassis.  The ring terminals shown here are made for #12-#10 gauge wire with an eyelet for a #8 screw.  &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 02.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The ground Molex plugs and connection boards which were formerly fastened to the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis. The four ground connector plugs (some games only use three total) were cut off from the incoming ground wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 06.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Keep wires which were common to one connector together (driver board ground wires, playfield ground wires, and backbox ground wires).  In doing this, future disassembly will be possible, should any of the individual wiring harnesses need attention or the playfield removed from the game.  The ground wires are then twisted together and crimped.  From experience, a maximum of 4 larger gauge wires can be crimped in one connection.  Lighter gauge wires can be paired with or without heavier gauge wires.  When doing this, the maximum effective grouping of wires increases slightly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 01.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The screws which were removed from the ground bus board should be reused to secure the eyelets to the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 03.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The transformer is fastened to the bottom of the cabinet with the ground upgrades in place.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground last.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pay close attention when securing the transformer panel to the cabinet.  All four mounting screws typically have flat ground straps with an eyelet.  These eyelet connections *must* be secured to the transformer panel.  Otherwise, the earth grounds will not all be tied together anymore.  Two of these ground connections are circled in the pic.  There are two more located on the backside of the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although somewhat equally difficult to locate, an alternate to the Motormite # 85443 connectors are Tyco / AMP 408-2049-4 connectors. Again, any brand can be used, but make certain the eyelet hole is for a #8 screw (not a #10 or larger), and the crimp connector can accommodate #10 / #12 gauge wires (typically yellow insulation on crimp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;Arena&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Bone Busters&amp;quot; =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ground connections used on System 80B games from Arena to Bone Busters are the not as bad as the previous design, however, they are still unreliable at times.  These connections consist of two small boards with three 10-pin .156&amp;quot; inline male header connections. The boards are fastened to the left side (or back side on newer games like Hot Shots) of the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis.  One problem with this is that the header pins get cracked solder joints, and in turn, ground connections become intermittent. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One common symptom of poor ground connections is multiple solenoids not functioning.  If removing the 10-pin Molex plug from the ground board, and reconnecting it at a different header causes non-working solenoids to function, the ground connections are bad. Whether or not this test proves that the ground connections are bad, it is highly recommended to improve the ground connections for future reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purpose of these changes is to remove one potentially failed connection out of the equation.  The grounds will then be secured directly to the transformer chassis via solderless eyelet crimp connectors.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the previous section, these ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System3 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].  Below are the steps to properly upgrade the grounds.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Gottlieb® System 80B Ground Upgrades (Arena to Bone Busters)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 01.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The stock ground connections plugged into the ground connection boards on the left side of the transformer panel.  This pic is a view from the left side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 02.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Remove all connections from the transformer panel.  Then, unscrew the four 5/16&amp;quot; hex head screws which secure the transformer panel from the bottom of the cabinet.  Turn the transformer panel on its side.  This will allow better access to secure the ring terminals to the side of the chassis.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 03.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut all of the ground wires as close as possible to the 10-pin housing.  Remove the two boards with the three .156&amp;quot; 10-pin male header connections.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 04.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All of the ground wires are to have their insulation stripped back longer than usual - approximately 3/4&amp;quot;.  Solderless ring terminals are crimped onto the ground wires.  The connections used in this particular application are Motormite #85443.  Motormite brand does not have to be used.  This particular brand and part number are mentioned due to the difficulty in finding the correct connectors to use. Most common ring terminals have a #10 or larger screw eyelet, which will not work effectively, if the eyelets are fastened to the side of the transformer panel chassis.  The ring terminals shown here are made for #12-#10 gauge wire with an eyelet for a #8 screw.  &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 05.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The ground Molex plugs and connection boards which were formerly fastened to the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis. The five ground connector plugs were cut off from the incoming ground wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 06.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Keep wires which were common to one connector together (driver board ground wires, playfield ground wires, and backbox ground wires).  In doing this, future disassembly will be possible, should any of the individual wiring harnesses need attention or the playfield removed from the game.  The ground wires are then twisted together and crimped.  From experience, a maximum of 4 larger gauge wires can be crimped in one connection.  Lighter gauge wires can be paired with or without heavier gauge wires.  When doing this, the maximum effective grouping of wires increases slightly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 07.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The screws which were removed from the ground bus board should be reused to secure the eyelets to the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 08.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The transformer is fastened to the bottom of the cabinet with the ground upgrades in place.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 09.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pay close attention when securing the transformer panel to the cabinet.  The four mounting screws may have flat ground straps with an eyelet.  These eyelet connections *must* be secured to the transformer panel.  Otherwise, the earth grounds will not all be tied together anymore.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although somewhat equally difficult to locate, an alternate to the Motormite # 85443 connectors are Tyco / AMP 408-2049-4 connectors. Again, any brand can be used, but make certain the eyelet hole is for a #8 screw (not a #10 or larger), and the crimp connector can accommodate #10 / #12 gauge wires (typically yellow insulation on crimp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing the Orange Filtering Capacitor====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AgedOrangeCap.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn out original 6800uf/25V Gottlieb® filter capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If your System 80 or early System 80A game still has the original, orange 12VDC filtering capacitor in the cabinet bottom, it should be replaced. It&#039;s 30+ years old, has served the game well for a long time, and deserves a rest. Replace it with a new capacitor, valued from 6800uf to 12,000uf and at least 25V. Don&#039;t forget to acquire the right sized bracket to secure the cap to the bottom board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A very nice replacement for this capacitor, specified at 12,000uf, can be found [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-67.asp here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This capacitor filters the rectified 12VDC which is supplied to the power supply board for regulation down to 5VDC which is used by the every board in the game, including the MPU. Solid 5VDC power is critical for the game to operate properly. Hence the need for a properly working cap.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sporadic / Inconsistent / Missing Voltages====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 PS Cold Joints.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This header pin was removed from the board by wiggling it loose!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One problem with the System 80 power supply sporadic, inconsistent, or missing voltages.  The game may be fine one minute, while the next minute, it loses voltage(s) completely.  One of the main culprits for this is cracked header joints.  Between vibration and the heat dissipated by the heat sink, header joints have a fairly high failure rate on System 80 power supplies.  The fix is to disassemble the power supply (as seen in the next section), and replace the stock round header pins with square headers. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Updates and Repairs for the System 80/80A Power Supply Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80PSBurnedCR7.jpg|200px|thumb|right|If CR7 on the Gottlieb power supply looks like this, the board should be rehabbed immediately.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Power Supply board is a pretty tough bugger. Still, after years of steady operation, they do fail, and they require refurbishment / rebuild.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The test point values are silk screened on the System 80 power supply board. They are +5VDC, +8VDC, +42VDC, and +60VDC. Ground, or &amp;quot;common&amp;quot; is also labeled.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Given that the parts to refurbish the power supply are cheap and readily available, and that taking the power supply apart is a bit of a pain, a good strategy is to replace all failure prone parts, whether the parts have failed or not, to avoid disassembling the power supply more than once.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Mandatory parts list:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#.156 male header pins without friction lock, 9-pin, 7-pin, 6-pin, or break to size.&lt;br /&gt;
#500 ohm resistor cermet trimmer potentiometer. A quality sealed one like the one pictured is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
#3 inches of 18 gauge wire&lt;br /&gt;
#680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor (470, 510, 560, or 620 works also) replacement for R10, originally a 30 ohm 2W resistor and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;must be replaced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; if CR7 is replaced with a 1N4738 (below)&lt;br /&gt;
#1N4738 8.2V 1 watt zener diode (CR7, originally a 1N3445 8.2V 2W zener)&lt;br /&gt;
#12K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor (R3)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Optional parts list:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#1N4746 18V 1 watt zener diode (CR6, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#47uf, 100V axial capacitor (C2, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#LM723 voltage regulator and 14-pin socket (IC1, optional if the 5V section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#2N6057, 2N6059, or 2N6284 Darlington transistor (Q3, optional if the 5V section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#heat sink compound (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-3 mica insulator or heat sink gasket (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-3 transistor spacer (optional as required) Keystone 4616 or Mouser Electronics 534-4616&lt;br /&gt;
#2N5550 or 2N5551 transistor (Q2, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#470uf/100V axial capacitor (C1, optional if the 42v/60v section is operational, this cap is often the cause of the 1/4A HV fuse blowing)&lt;br /&gt;
#TIP31C TO-220 NPN transistor (Q1, optional if the 42v/60v section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 mica insulator (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 Passive Heatsink - Aavid Thermalloy 563002B00000G (only necessary if the existing heatsink is damaged or missing the PCB mounting tabs)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 Nylon Bushing Insulator (only necessary if missing or damaged)&lt;br /&gt;
#Green LEDs (optional...use to identify that the board has been rebuilt)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the 4 screws that fasten the PCB to the cold plate (heat sink).&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the 2 screws that fasten the back mounted transistor Q3 to the PCB and cold plate.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a solder removal tool to remove the solder from the legs of Q3 that extend through the PCB. This is the toughest part of the job. If the board had been really hacked, two irons and a friend may be needed to accomplish this.&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the cold plate and Q3 have been removed, set those parts to the side.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace parts on the PCB as recommended and advised by the particular failure.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the PCB, solder a 3&amp;quot; wire from the ground trace to the screw mount, as shown in the picture below.&lt;br /&gt;
#When replacing the original round header pins with new square header pins, the through holes may require slight enlargement using a pick as shown in the picture below. Alternatively, the holes can be drilled with a small bit from the solder side of the board. Pressing the pins into the through holes without enlarging them might cause the solder pad to pop off the board. Key pins must be removed prior to installation as the PCB has no holes at the key pin position.&lt;br /&gt;
#Recheck all of the work performed.&lt;br /&gt;
#Sand the black insulating coating from the top/right screw hole on the front of the cold plate, as shown in the picture below. The insulating coating is very tough. A drum sander attachment on a Dremel works very well for this.  To ensure enough has been sanded, use a meter to &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between screw holes. The screw hole will be used later to tie the ground from each PCB together.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Q3 (note that it will only install one way) onto the cold plate using the transistor spacer, mica insulator, and heat sink compound.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mate the two halves of the power supply together and reinstall the two screws which secure Q3.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the leads of Q3 to it&#039;s through-holes.&lt;br /&gt;
#To ensure continuity at each leg&#039;s solder joint, &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection between the left leg of Q3 and the top leg of R9.&lt;br /&gt;
#Also &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection between the right leg of Q3 and the bottom leg of R11.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the remaining 4 screws around the perimeter of the power supply board. &lt;br /&gt;
#Lastly, ensure there is NO continuity between Q3 and the cold plate, as shown in the picture below. This is an essential step to ensure proper operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=170px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;System 80/80A Power Supply Repair&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Parts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsRemoved.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front Side, Parts Removed and Board Cleaned Up&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsRemovedBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Back Side, Parts Removed&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:EnlargingHoles.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Enlarging Header Pin Holes&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsReplaced.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Replaced, Front Side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsReplacedBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Replaced and Ground Updated, Back Side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:R10ThermalStrainRelief.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Strain Relief for R10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80PSAllDone.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All Done&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Transistor-to-ColdPlateContinuityTest.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ensuring no continuity between Q3 and the cold plate&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once fully assembled, reinstall the power supply into the game. Connect ONLY J1 (the lower 9-pin connector) at this time. Power the game on, looking for the two LEDs to light. If they do not light, there will be rework to perform. Assuming that they do light, test each of the voltages that the power supply creates to ensure the correct power is being generated/regulated. Since the power is not &amp;quot;under load&amp;quot;, each of the voltages may read 10% or so high. While measuring the 5V test point, adjust the 5V trim pot to about 5.1VDC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it! Done.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: once the other boards are connected to the power supply, the 5V may sag some. Measure the 5V across the electrolytic cap just to the right of the MPU power connector. Using the 5V trim pot, adjust the 5V power to between 5.0 and 5.1VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Repairs for the System 80B Power Supply Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B +5 VDC Power Supply. The adjustment POT is at the top of the PCB.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Step one to improving power supply reliability is to replace the original 500 ohm 1 watt adjustment pot.  This procedure can be done easily without removing the large heat sink.  A replacement sealed pot is recommended, but not completely necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, remove all the old solder from the all of the .156&amp;quot; header pins, and reflow new solder onto the joints. The top header pins (J2) supply +5VDC to the majority of the associated circuit boards in the back box.  Provided that the power supply is delivering acceptable voltages in the +5VDC range, these two relatively simple repairs are the only things needed for this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
However, if you&#039;ve adjusted the pot as much as possible in the appropriate direction, and the power supply is still delivering voltages higher or lower than around +5VDC, it&#039;s probably time to look at replacing the LM338K voltage regulator.  While not a frequent occurrence, the voltage regulator will sometimes fail. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the voltages measured are less than 1VDC, the grounds for the power supply (located at the transformer panel) will more than likely need attention.  Once the grounds at the transformer panel are better secured, recheck the voltage at the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: When measuring the +5VDC provided by the power supply, first disconnect J2 on the power supply. Measure power at the J2 male headers first. Once within an acceptable range, turn power off and reconnect J2. Measure power across C1, the 100uf/10V capacitor that is next to J1 (power connector) on the MPU. The MPU may drag the +5VDC supply down a bit. If you find this to be the case, adjust the trim pot on the power supply until a steady +5VDC is seen at the MPU. Poor connections between the +5VDC power supply and the MPU board may also reduce the voltage measured at the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Optional Bling...Adding Power Indicating LED&#039;s to Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
=====CPU Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
How to add a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator for the Gottlieb System 80 Generation 1 CPU board (the D102 board). This will light up when + 5 volts are present on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes spaced about 3mm apart in the spot indicated just below power connector J1. This area has no traces to interfere with drilling.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install LED into board with flat side facing toward the power connector J1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the flat side&#039;s lead to the negative (ground) point shown in the picture and solder it.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will connect to one side of the 330 ohm resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the positive trace shown in the picture. You&#039;re done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is powered on, this LED will indicate that the CPU board is receiving +5 volts from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDholesfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDholesrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drilled on rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Circled areas are where to drill the two holes for the LED. Any color of LED can be used, but red or green are preferred.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80CPULEDwiring.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring on solder side of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDfront.JPG|200px|thumb|right|LED installed on board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED. Note the location of the flat side of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80CPULEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation of LED]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed installation with LED lit up indicating the +5 volts is present on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator to the System 80 Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohm quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; holes spaced about 3mm apart in the board at the location shown in the pictures to the left of the electrolytic capacitor near chip Z1. There should be no traces at that area.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the red LED with the flat side facing the trace going to the negative side of the electrolytic capacitor. Bend the LED&#039;s flat side lead down to that trace and scrape away some of the green paint at the point you will be soldering it. Now solder that lead to the trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder one end of the 330 ohm resistor to the other lead of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will now get soldered to the trace that goes to the positive side of the electrolytic capacitor. Again, be sure to scrape some of the green paint off of the trace where the resistor lead will be soldered. You are done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is on, the LED will be lit indicating that the driver board is receiving +5 volts from the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LED_holesfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDholesrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes on the rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Views of the holes drilled for the LED looking from the front and rear of the System 80 driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80LEDrear.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring of the LED and resistor]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDflat.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Finished installation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED. Notice the location of the flat side of the LED. Any color of LED can be used, but red or green is prefered.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80LEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation with LED lit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed installation showing the LED lit up indicating +5v power is present on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pop Bumper Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
How to add a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator for the Gottlieb System 80 Pop Bumper Driver Board. This will light up when + 5 volts are present on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#From the solder side, mark and drill four 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes spaced as shown in the spot indicated. &lt;br /&gt;
#Install LED into board with flat side facing toward the power connector J1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the flat side&#039;s lead to the negative (ground) point shown in the picture and solder it.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will connect to one side of the 330 ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the positive trace shown in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
#You&#039;re done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is powered on, this LED will indicate that the CPU board is receiving +5 volts from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-supplies.jpg|Supplies needed.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-1.jpg|Mark holes on solder side as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-2.jpg|Drill holes.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-3.jpg|Stuff parts shown. Note the polarity of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-4.jpg|Bend component legs as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-5.jpg|Solder all 3 connections as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat for each Pop Bumper Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; LED indicator for the MA-234 auxiliary lamp driver board used in Black Hole and Haunted House.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red or green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes about 3mm apart in the locations indicated in the pictures.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mount LED with the flat side toward the edge of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The lead from the LED&#039;s flat side will be soldered to pin 2 (ground) of connector A11P1. Be sure to slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over this lead so it does not accidently short to the other connector pins.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of the 330 ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 4 (+5 volts) of connector A11P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Whenever the machine is on, the LED should be lit, indicating the auxiliary lamp driver board is receiving power. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDfrontholes.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDrearholes.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes on rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
View of the holes drilled for the LED as viewed from the front and rear of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:ALDLEDfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED installed on board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Resistor and LED wiring]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED on the rear of the board. Notice the location of the flat side of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:ALDLEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED is lit up]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Finished installation with LED lit up indicating presence of +5 volts power on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Sound/Speech Power Supply Board LED&#039;s=====&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound/Speech power supply board will get a total of four LED&#039;s! These are to indicate the presence of -12 volts, +12 volts, and +30 volts going out to the actual sound/speech board and also to indicate +24 volts coming in to the power supply board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*4 Red or green LED&#039;s&lt;br /&gt;
*2 Resistors, 1 k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 2.2k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 3.0 k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a total of eight 1/16&amp;quot; holes at the points shown in the pictures near connector A7P1. Lead spacing per LED is about 3mm. Be sure the LED&#039;s are not too close to each other to interfere with sitting flat against the board. The +12 and +30 volt LED&#039;s will mount with the flat side facing diagonally (7 o&#039;clock) toward the lower left board mounting hole.&lt;br /&gt;
#The -12 volt LED will have the lead of the round side (anode) soldered to the heavy ground trace of the board. You&#039;ll need to scrape some of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of this LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to the junction point of resistor R2 and the anode of zener diode CR2.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +24 volt LED will have the lead from the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the heavy ground trace on the board. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 2.2k resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 6 (+24 volts). Again, you&#039;ll need to scrape some of the green paint from the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +12 volt LED will have the lead from the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the heavy ground trace. You will need to scrape some of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 1 (+12 volts). You will need to scrape some of the green paint off of the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +30 volt LED will have the lead of the flat side (cathode) soldered to the heavy ground trace. You will need to scrape off some of the green paint from the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 3 k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 2 (+30 volts). You will need to scrape some of the green paint from the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#These LED&#039;s above are all optional. The board never originally came with anything to indicate presence of voltages. If you only want to install one, that&#039;s fine. I chose to install all four so I can see at a glance that all four voltages are present. You don&#039;t have to install all four if you don&#039;t want to.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture of the finished front of the board the LED&#039;s from top to bottom are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*-12v&lt;br /&gt;
*+24v&lt;br /&gt;
*+12v&lt;br /&gt;
*+30v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture of the wiring on the back (foil) side of the board, the resistors top to bottom are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1K&lt;br /&gt;
*2.2K&lt;br /&gt;
*1K&lt;br /&gt;
*3K &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDfrontholes.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes for the LED&#039;s on the front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDrearholes.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes for the LED&#039;s on the rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Views of the drilled holes for the LED&#039;s looking from the front and rear of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLEDlower.JPG|200px|thumb|left|+12 and +30 LED&#039;s installed on front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDupper.JPG|200px|thumb|right|-12 and +24 LED&#039;s installed on front]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All four LED&#039;s installed on the front of the board. Notice the location of the flat sides of all the LED&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLED_wiring.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring of the resistors on the rear of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDfinished.JPG|200px|thumb|right|All four LED&#039;s installed on front of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistors and LED&#039;s on the rear of the board. All four LED&#039;s installed on front of board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished and all LED&#039;s lit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All four LED&#039;s installed and lit up indicating the presence of the four different voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====System 80/80A Power Supply Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 and System 80A power supply board already has LED&#039;s installed to indicate the +5 volts and +12 volts. This project will add an LED to indicate the presence of the +60 volts which is used to operate the score displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 LED, any color&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 10k, 2 watts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a total of four 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes at the points indicated between the foil traces in the pictures. Try to keep the holes in a straight line.The LED installs in the top two holes and with the flat (cathode) side facing downward toward the bottom end of the board. The resistor will install in the other remaining two holes which are the also the farthest spaced. Be sure to scrape the paint off of the foil traces at the points shown in the pictures.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_holes_front.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled viewed from front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_holes_rear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drilled as viewed from rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Wiring it all up:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flat (cathode) side of the LED will be soldered to the top end of the 10k 2 watt resistor. Be sure to keep all component leads pressed down as close to the foil traces as possible to prevent shorting to the metal frame when the board is re-assembled to the metal frame. There is very little clearance between the board and the metal frame when everything is re-assembled. The lower end of the resistor will be soldered to the foil trace that goes to connector J3, pins 4 and 5 (ground). The round (anode) side of the LED will be soldered to the foil trace that goes to connector J3 pin 1 (the +60 volts). Put a short piece of heat shrink tubing or sleeving over that lead to prevent it from shorting to the trace it crosses over. Now carefully bend that lead of the LED down onto the correct foil trace as shown in the pictures and solder it. Be sure to label the new LED on the parts side of the board as &amp;quot;+60V&amp;quot;. This completes the wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_parts.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Resistor and LED mounted on board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_soldered.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Parts soldered to foil traces]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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The new LED should be lit at all times the machine is turned on. It indicates that +60 volts DC is present to operate the score displays. The other display voltage, +42 volts, is derived from the +60 volts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_finished.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation with +60v marking]]&lt;br /&gt;
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=====System 80 First Generation &amp;quot;Sounds Only&amp;quot; Sound Board LED&#039;s=====&lt;br /&gt;
This board was used in early System 80 games such as Panthera. It operates on three power sources, -12 volts, +12 volts, and +5 volts. The +12 volts is obtained from the bottom panel in the machine. The +5 volts is obtained from the game&#039;s power supply board. The -12 volts is generated on this sounds only board by receiving ac power input on J1 pins 3 and 4. You can measure the -12 volts by connecting your volt meter across zener diode CR5 (1N4742A).&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;MATERIALS NEEDED&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*2 LED&#039;s, any color&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 1k @ 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohm @ 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Short piece of small diameter heat shrink tubing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two pairs of holes 1/16&amp;quot; diameter and about 3mm apart at the locations as shown in the pictures. Be sure not to drill through any foil traces.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +12 volt LED will have the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the ground trace coming from pin 6 of connector J1. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of green paint off of the trace first in order to solder it. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k @ 1/4 watt resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 1 of connector J1 (the +12 volt source). Be sure to slide a short piece of heat shrink tubing over this end of the resistor before soldering since this lead will pass over a couple of traces. This will prevent the resistor lead from shorting to those traces and causing damage.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +5 volt LED will have the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the ground trace coming from pin 6 of connector J1. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of the green paint off of the trace first in order to solder it. The other end of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 330 ohm @ 1/4 watt resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 5 of connector J1 (the +5 volt source).&lt;br /&gt;
#When finished, be sure to note that the flat sides of both LED&#039;s will be facing each other on the front side of the board. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_holes_front.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled in front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_holes_rear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drill in rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80so_LEDS.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED&#039;s installed on board with flat sides facing each other]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_resistors.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Wiring on solder side of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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====F2 Fuse Blows At Power Up on 80A games====&lt;br /&gt;
If the F2 fuse blows at power up, there is one overlooked problem that is good to check. This could also apply to 80B games, but a different fuse may blow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the transformer panel, there is a pair of cement resistors are soldered to a solder tab, which is screwed down to a small square plastic post. Check to make sure that this has not been moved to another screw hole in the metal of the transformer panel. Screwing this line to the metal of the transformer panel ties one of the AC lines to ground. Since this line is shorted/tied to ground, it also has the side effect of making the bridge rectifier test bad, since there is a tab tied to ground when there shouldn&#039;t be one. It is likely that the bridge rectifier will test good as soon as the solder tab is moved to the correct place.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:sys80-f2-fuse-blows-issue-2.jpg|Correct place to screw the solder tab (on the square plastic post)&lt;br /&gt;
File:sys80-f2-fuse-blows-issue-1.jpg|Incorrect place to screw the solder tab. This causes a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a large and varied number of reasons that a System 80 MPU will fail to boot. Unfortunately, as has been said before, &amp;quot;this is not a Bally world&amp;quot;. That is, unlike &amp;quot;classic&amp;quot; Bally and Stern MPUs the System 80 MPU provides absolutely no indication as to why it may have failed to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Debugging a non-booting MPU is somewhat of an art. A few basic steps are listed below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure your game is providing a solid 5VDC power source&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace the orange electrolytic cap in the cabinet bottom if still original&lt;br /&gt;
#Take the board to the bench&lt;br /&gt;
#Examine the board for Alkaline damage. If present, clean up&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure the reset section of the board is working. Pin 40 of the 6502 should begin &amp;quot;low&amp;quot;, then after about 1/2 second, transition to &amp;quot;high&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the clock signals at the 6502&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the IRQ signal at the 6502. Ensure it isn&#039;t &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the R/W (read/write) signal at the 6502. Again, ensure it isn&#039;t stuck&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the address and data lines to ensure that they are pulsing&lt;br /&gt;
#Feel each of the masked ROM chips at U2 and U3 as well as the 6532 RIOT chips at U4, U5, and U6. If the IC is too hot to touch, it has probably failed and should be replaced. Note that the 6532 RIOTs run hot normally. If one is noticeably hotter than the other, that may be an indication of failure.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test each of the 74XX chips in the switch matrix (Z11 - Z15) using this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit procedure].&lt;br /&gt;
#If the board has the original masked game ROM(s), replacement with the appropriately sized ROM is advised (generally a 2716).&lt;br /&gt;
#In the case of System 80B MPUs that employ a &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;, fractured solder joints where the &amp;quot;riser pins&amp;quot; meet the daughter card are often an issue. These joints can&#039;t be examined without removing the daughter card. And, removing the daughter card is not trivial. If flexing the daughter card causes the board to boot or to crash, fractured solder joints are a solid suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Power on &amp;quot;Thunk&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80 games exhibit a &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; upon power up. The manifestation of this is the unpredictable lighting of lamps, running of motors, and actuation of coils / relays.  The symptom is unpredictable in that swapping either the driver or the MPU board might change the behavior. &lt;br /&gt;
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The &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; can be suppressed via a process detailed [http://www.flippers.com/gott-system80.html#thunk here] by John Robertson.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80 Driver Reset Front.JPG|thumb|left|200px|The addition of an MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator on the driver board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Driver Reset Back.JPG|thumb|right|200px|The addition of an MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator on the driver board w/ traces cut and jumpers run.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As an alternative to John&#039;s approach, another method has been developed. The method employs the use of a reset generator tied to the &#039;&#039;&#039;CLR&#039;&#039;&#039; leg (pin 1) of the appropriate 74175 flip-flops (those that control devices that &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot;). The reset generator is added to the front of the driver board in the upper right hand corner. There is a &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot; in this location. Solder should be removed from the star via exposing a through hole. Next, two very small holes should be drilled into the board on either side of the via. Make certain not to drill through traces on the solder side of the board, and that neither hole touches the &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot;. Next, scrape the solder mask from the two thick traces on the solder side which pass closest to the star via. These traces terminate at capacitor C1 on the driver board.  The closest trace is ground and the other trace is +5v. Next, place a MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator through the driver board. The center leg (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) will pass through the star via, while the outer legs will go through the newly drilled holes. The flat side of the reset generator should be facing the components on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
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Next, bend the GND and 5V legs of the reset generator onto the appropriate traces where the masking was scraped.  Next, the traces on Z3, Z4, and Z5 should be cut between pin 1 and pin 16. This is the wide trace at the very top of the chip. Additionally, there is a thick trace to the right of pin 1 on Z4 which must be severed. After cutting this trace, pin 16 and the isolated trace must be tied together with a jumper.  This connects 5VDC to pin 16 of Z4. Now that pin 1 is isolated from 5VDC on chips Z3, Z4, and Z5, trace wire must be routed from the center leg (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) of the reset generator to pin 1 of each of these chips. Once this modification is completed, the coils associated with these chips will no longer be pulsed when the game is turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
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Like the modification which John Robertson lays out, it may not be necessary to isolate pin 1 of Z3, Z4, and Z5 for every game. However, isolating these 3 chips accommodates most System 80/A/B games that use lamp transistors to pre-drive coils / relays. The game over and tilt relays will still pulse briefly upon turning the game on but that behavior is generally acceptable. Isolating pin 1 of Z1 and tying pin 1 to the reset line of the reset generator will resolve this residual behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
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Note that the trace wire shown in the pic on the right could have been routed more elegantly.  This was in part due to an afterthought in having Z3 tied to the reset generator.&lt;br /&gt;
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Since the &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; is really just a minor irritation, most owners do not think that the resolution is worth the effort. However, on some games, the thunk can be very annoying by pulsing the ball release coil under the lower apron. The result is a ball being served into the shooter lane, before the MPU board even boots up. Most System 80B Genesis games run the &amp;quot;Reveal Motor&amp;quot; as a result of the &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:ResetGeneratorPinExplanation.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Part number explanation and pin configuration for various reset generators.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Other reset generators may be used as long as the pinout of the legs is observed. Shown at left is a snippet of the datasheet that explains reset generator part numbers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:AlternateDethunkFront.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Using an MCP130-460DI/TO reset generator. Take care to drill the holes so that only one reset generator leg touches the star.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DethunkAlternateBack.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Jumpers are still connected to the &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot; but the new holes are drilled in different locations.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One alternate reset generator to use is the MCP130-460DI/TO which is also used in the section that discusses System 80 MPU alkaline corrosion abatement. The installation is a bit different as is shown in the adjacent pictures. The (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) signal is on the left leg of the reset generator while Vdd (5VDC) is in the center and Vss (Ground) is on the right leg.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Erratic Boot Issues with Later 80B Games (Hot Shots, Bad Girls, and Big House)====&lt;br /&gt;
Some erratic boot issues have been observed with the following games: Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Excalibur, however, the list of games may be more extensive.  The issues included are a locked on display with garbage characters shown, no display illuminating at all, sound board not booting (LED stuck on), locked on lamps, no controlled lamps, locked on coils, etc.  The source of the problem seems to stem from the fluorescent tube starter located in the backbox.  It is unknown why exactly this anomaly occurs.  Removal of the starter should resolve the booting issues.  Worst case scenario, remove the 110v panel fuse on the transformer panel use for the fluorescent light circuit.  Unfortunately, this is the only resolution known at this time.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Battery Leakage and Corrosion====&lt;br /&gt;
Like most any other pinball machine manufactured, Gottlieb® uses batteries to supply power to the non-volatile RAM memory.  Certain game settings, high score thresholds (including high score to date), audit information, and bookkeeping information are all options which are saved when the game is powered off.  And unless some kind soul, who worked on your machine before, either removed the battery and mounted it remotely away from circuit boards, or just plain removed the battery, there will be some variety of a 3.6v Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) rechargeable battery soldered onto your CPU board.  &lt;br /&gt;
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So, what&#039;s so bad about having a battery on the CPU board?  Well, nothing really, unless it&#039;s forgotten, and in most cases, it is.  While you let your pinball machine sit unplayed for weeks, months, or even years at a time, the battery remains perched on the circuit board like a ticking time bomb.  I&#039;m not saying the battery is going to blow up, although some replacement non-rechargeable batteries could overheat and / or explode if not correctly installed.  The battery is like a ticking time bomb, because it is a threat to the overall health of the electronic components, traces, and connectors attached to your CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Now that I have your attention regarding the whole battery thing, let&#039;s talk about the battery, and what happens. . .&#039;&#039;&#039;WHEN GOOD BATTERIES GO BAD&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It&#039;s not that some batteries were born on the wrong side of the tracks or anything. Any good battery can go bad without much warning.  It takes time, but eventually you will find that your battery has crossed over to the &amp;quot;dark side&amp;quot;.  That particular time is typically when you turn your game on, the lights come on, and that&#039;s it.  The displays don&#039;t light up. The start up sounds don&#039;t resonant. And, the silver ball stays in its comfy little home.  Nada...nothing...no signs of anything resembling a fun game of pinball.  &#039;&#039;&#039;UH-OH!&#039;&#039;&#039; So what happened?  The pinball machine worked fine the last time you played it.  &lt;br /&gt;
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Well, while you were out having a good time and enjoying life, the poor, aged, neglected battery decided to wreak havoc all over the reset section, clock section, or possibly more regions on your CPU board.  The CPU battery spewing its guts all over the place is akin to the batteries in the flashlight you haven&#039;t turned on since the last power outage a year or two ago.  You go to turn on the flashlight when you need it most, and find out there&#039;s something wrong.  So being the curious type, you open the flashlight&#039;s battery compartment only to find some kind of blue-green funk leaking all over, or the batteries now look like they need a shave.  The resolution to the flashlight scenario is pretty simple. Throw it away, and buy a new one. Your CPU board problem can be resolved the same way, except it will be a lot more costly, and is not recommended to just pitch it in the trash. If the battery damage to the CPU board is not overly extensive, attempt to repair it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Typical Battery Found on a System 80 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s unfortunate, but every battery has a life expectancy.  The only silver lining is that some of the Ni-Cad batteries installed on Gottlieb® CPU boards can last longer than others.  Probably the worst culprit of board destruction is the &#039;&#039;&#039;Data Sentry&#039;&#039;&#039; pack, and its associated knock-offs.  This battery comes in a black rectangular plastic package.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:GTB sys80A battery.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical Battery Found on a System 80A / 80B CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another battery pack style which looks very similar to the NiCad battery packs found in &amp;quot;old school&amp;quot; cordless phones.  It is actually three small NiCad cells wrapped separately in an orange poly material, which is wrapped in a outer white poly material.  These don&#039;t leak nearly as badly, but they still have the potential to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Replacement nicad.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical NiCad Battery Which was Replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The final common battery style is a what looks like an AA battery on steroids.  This style is a fraction longer and fatter than an AA battery&#039;s physical form, and has two soldered leads on either end.  If you find one of these, it means the battery was previously replaced.  The good news is that this battery is newer than the original. However, the same results of battery seepage can occur.  The only benefit of this type of battery is that it can be carefully cut (in most cases) from the board without removing the board from your game.  This is a plus if no battery damage has occurred.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage03.JPG|200px|thumb|left|NiCad Battery Damage to a System 80A CPU Board&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;(Note:  This is considered very mild damage!)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage04.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Damage from the battery may also occur on the back side of the board, especially on the edge connection fingers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So what happens if you don&#039;t heed the above warnings, and the battery is allowed to remain on the board?  Plain and simple - &#039;&#039;&#039;THE BATTERY WILL LEAK!&#039;&#039;&#039;  It&#039;s only a matter of time.  Equally, the path of destruction is uncertain.  Batteries don&#039;t just leak - they release caustic, alkaline fumes.  These fumes attack wherever there is copper, even tinned or soldered copper.  The end results are:&lt;br /&gt;
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*solder joints which become green or gray and crusty as opposed to a shiny silver&lt;br /&gt;
*connectors which are also now green / gray or potentially broken&lt;br /&gt;
*solder mask, the green covering the electronic traces, on the circuit board has either flaked off or is partially delaminating (lifting)&lt;br /&gt;
*insulated wire becomes less flexible and brittle&lt;br /&gt;
*sometimes the alkaline &amp;quot;cloud&amp;quot; in the game&#039;s backbox causes every board in the head to be affected.&lt;br /&gt;
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Electronic components, related solder joints, circuit board traces, connectors, and even insulated wire will become unreliable and/or fail.  In all cases, the affected components are less conductive.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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If battery damage has occurred, the related parts must now be replaced.  Attempting to remove soldered through components on the circuit board is now even more of a task.  The green / gray dull solder does not transfer heat well.  Battery damaged solder does not flow like clean solder.  Also, crimped connectors are more difficult to remove from their housings, and have a tendency to break before they can be successfully pulled out.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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After all the effected electronic components are removed, the board must be treated.  This process starts by sanding the traces and solder pads until shiny copper is exposed.  It is worth mentioning that a battery damaged board can be treated by bead blasting instead of sanding, however, most people do not have access to such a machine.  After the copper areas of the board have been either sanded or bead blasted, an acidic bath of 50% vinegar and 50% (preferably distilled) water is applied to the board.  A small brush like a toothbrush can be used to scrub the board&#039;s area. The purpose of introducing an acid to the effected area is to neutralize what the battery has left behind.   The liquid and fumes from the battery are actually a base, not an acid.  Next, rinse the area of the board with water.  Once the board is clean, isopropyl alcohol (the higher the alcohol percentage the better) is applied to the same area to rinse away the acid bath, and hopefully dissipate any remaining water.  Finally, the board is either blown dry or air dried.  This may be a given, but &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT ATTEMPT TO APPLY POWER TO THE BOARD IF IT IS STILL WET!&#039;&#039;&#039;  Most liquids are conductive to some extent. After the previous steps are performed, the task of installing the new components begins.  If any traces or solder pads were damaged, see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 Repairing Traces] portion of this Wiki guide on to to fix them.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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The point I&#039;m trying to ultimately make is this...regardless of age, shape, or form, &#039;&#039;&#039;remove the battery from the CPU board&#039;&#039;&#039;, as soon as it realized that there is a battery on the board.  If not, the board can be damaged, nonfunctional, and become more difficult or even impossible to repair.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing that should be done to any System 80 MPU is remove the rechargeable NiCad battery from the MPU board. All batteries leak. They are like ticking bombs. It is merely a matter of when they will leak and possibly damage (sometimes irreplaceable) boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
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There are at least &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;five&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; methods of relocating and/or replacing the battery on a System 80/80A/80B MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
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*Remove the battery completely without replacing it. The 5101 memory will not store information from power-on to power-on and therefore, high scores, replay levels, and credits will be lost.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80battery.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Remote Battery]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Mount a remote battery pack that uses standard AA batteries (x3) to protect your board.  A blocking diode must be installed (1N4004, although a 1N4001 will work just as well) to prevent the game circuitry from attempting to charge the batteries. Install the blocking diode in series with the positive lead of the battery pack, with the band oriented toward the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:MemorySuperCap.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Here a 5.5V, 1F Super Cap is used to retain 5101 memory for up to 30 days]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the battery with a 1F 5.5V &amp;quot;SuperCap&amp;quot;. The capacitor will never leak, will charge during power-on cycles, and will retain 5101 memory for about 30 days. If you&#039;ve sanded traces as was done in the picture, use a non-conductive material to cover the trace under the cap to ensure that the negative side of the cap doesn&#039;t short a trace (such as clear nail polish, green overcoat pen, electrical tape, or fishpaper). Cut the tape in a circular shape and poke the capacitor leads through it so it can&#039;t fall off in the future. (Electric tape is notorious for slipping.)  An alternate solution would be get a piece of fishpaper insulator, cut that into a circle and poke holes in it for the capacitor leads.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:GTB Sys80 H Mem Cap.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Alternate method for installing a memory cap]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 H Mem Cap Back.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Tying the negative lead of the memory cap to the negative pad on the MPU board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The memory cap can also be installed in the two leftmost holes, where the Ni-Cad battery formerly resided.  The negative lead of the memory cap will then have to be tied to the negative (ground) through hole of the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
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*Remotely mount a replacement NiCad battery in a location that, should it leak, won&#039;t damage valuable circuit boards.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebCR2032.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|a CR2032 Lithium &amp;quot;Button Cell&amp;quot; Battery Installed]][[File:GottliebBlockingDiode.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|A 1N4004 Blocking Diode Installed &amp;quot;inline&amp;quot; with the Positive Connection]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the original NiCad battery with a Lithium button cell CR2032 battery and holder. The holes for the original battery can be repurposed to connect the button cell holder and to add the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;necessary&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; blocking diode in the positive side of the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Using a Reset Generator for the CPU Reset Section ====&lt;br /&gt;
If you find that the battery has leaked, alkaline damage can be cleaned up, traces repaired, and new components installed with kits available from several sources, including Great Plains Electronics.&lt;br /&gt;
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An alternative to replacing a great many of the components is to use the Dallis/Maxim DS1811 reset generator. The DS1811-10 has a typical trip point of 4.35VDC. You may also use the Microchip Technology equivalent, part number [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460DI%2FTO MCP130-460DI/TO], available from Great Plains Electronics. Remove all reset section components, clean up residual alkaline damage, add four jumpers, and install the reset generator as pictured below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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After jumpers and the reset generator are added, make certain there is continuity between the three legs of the reset generator and the appropriate locations on the circuit board.  Below is a list of the reset generator legs and the board locations.  Pin 1 of the reset generator is the left leg, when the flat side of the unit is facing towards the user.&lt;br /&gt;
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*Pin 1 of reset generator to pin 2 of Z4&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 2 of reset generator to +5VDC line (lower leg of C2)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 3 of reset generator to ground (upper leg of C2)&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Using the Dallas Maxim 1811 Reset Generator&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dallas_Maxim_Reset_scaled.JPG|A System 80 MPU with alkaline damage repaired/cleaned. Reset circuitry replaced with the much simpler Dallas Maxim 1811&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80 reset gen jumpers updated.png|Illustrated picture of components to remove, keep, and jumpers to add.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dallas_Maxim_Reset_scaled_with_markup.JPG|The same image, but with indications of jumper locations (yellow dots) and where to install the Dallas Maxim 1811, flat side facing the bottom of the board. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: View at full resolution&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:GTB Sys80 MCP120 Reset Gen.JPG|200px|left|thumb|MCP120 reset generator installed with 4.7K pullup resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a reset generator with an internal pullup resistor (MCP130 series) is not available, an MCP120 reset generator can be installed.  However, an external resistor must be installed between the reset and +5v.  The easiest location to install the resistor is between the through hole where the top leg of Q4 was, and through hole where the bottom leg of Q2 was.  In the adjacent image, an MCP120-460DI/TO is installed with the 4.7K 1/4 watt external pullup resistor highlighted.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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When installing this type of reset generator, remove all of the components, and add all of the jumpers related to the installation of an MCP130-460DI/TO reset generator.  Adding the external pullup resistor is the only additional step.  Failure to add the pullup resistor will result in the reset signal not going high, and the board will not boot.&lt;br /&gt;
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==== Slam Switch Modification ====&lt;br /&gt;
In order to test the CPU board on the test bench, a modification must be made to the CPU board to make the CPU think that the slam switch is closed. If the CPU thinks that the slam switch is not closed, the CPU will not complete the boot process, instead booting into a mode where the displays flicker all zeros at a very rapid rate (System 80 and 80A). See the image [[Gottlieb_System_80#Open_Slam_Switch | here]] for a depiction of what you&#039;ll see.  When the slam switch is open on a System 80B game, (the appropriate games where the slam switch is supposed to be closed), an &amp;quot;OPEN SLAM SWITCH&amp;quot; message will be shown on the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Gottlieb® designed the slam switch as a normally closed switch. That is, the switch must be closed for the machine to operate normally. When a brute kicks the machine, the slam switch will open from the inertial force on the weight attached to the switch, and the slam switch will open. Since the CPU is on the bench, we need a way to have this switch closed at all times to properly test the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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Additionally, slam switches themselves fail. It&#039;s a good idea to implement this change as a preemptive fix for slam switch failures.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Slammod.png|200px|thumb|left|Slam Switch Mod]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The slam switch can effectively be permanently closed by making a small solder bridge across two traces to the right of Z26 (which is on the lower right side of the CPU board). To permanently close the switch, remove the solder mask by scraping with a sharp knife or screwdriver. Create the solder bridge between the two now bare traces. This change will connect pin 13 of Z26 to ground, permanently closing the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:DefeatSlamSwitch.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Alternative Slam Switch Mod]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Z26RemovedSlamSwitch.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Z26 removed. One can easily see that the two methods of defeating the Slam switch are equivalent.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An alternate method of achieving the same results is to solder a clipped resistor leg across the bottom of capacitor (C30) and resistor (R20), both immediately to the left of Z26.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Ni-WumpfSlamMod.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Slam Switch Mod for Ni-Wumpf CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To permanently close the slam switch on a Ni-Wumpf CPU board, you need to connect pin A1J5-10 to ground on the board.  This picture shows how to do this from the back of the board by soldering a jumper wire.&lt;br /&gt;
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Keep in mind that the last 4 Gottlieb® System 80B games were released with normally open slam switches.  Do not perform the slam switch modification on these games.  This includes the following games:&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Girls&lt;br /&gt;
*Big House&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Shots&lt;br /&gt;
*Bonebusters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
*Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set)&lt;br /&gt;
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Regardless of what platform the game is based on, there is only one slam switch used in a System 80/80A/80B game.  It is the weighted switch located on the coin door.  There is some confusion that the ball roll tilt and weighted tilt switch on the playfield are slam switches.  They are not.  These switches along with the pendulum tilt are all tilt switches.&lt;br /&gt;
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==== System 80B Daughter Board Solder Joints ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80B CPU.JPG|260px|thumb|left|A typical System 80B MPU Board, showing the location of the &amp;quot;daughter board&amp;quot;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BFracturedJointsDaughterCard.jpg|thumb|right|140px|A closeup of Gottlieb® System 80B Daughter Board Male Header Pins with fractured solder joints. This board was cleanly removed from the CPU with great care.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Games with System 80B MPUs feature a &amp;quot;daughter board&amp;quot; to accommodate the 2764 game ROM as shown in the picture on the left. The daughter board connects to the MPU board at the location occupied by U3 in System 80/80A MPUs, via a 24-pin male header. That connection is a two-sided solder joint that can fail. As can be seen in the picture at right, these same header pins connect to the daughter board via a single sided solder joint. Since the daughter board is cantilevered over both the former location of U2 and U3, pressing on this board over time commonly results in fractured solder joints (as seen, right) at the single sided joint and sometimes at the two-sided joint.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typical symptoms of fractured solder joints at this location are failure to boot, random resets, and random lockups. Sometimes pressing on the daughter board will &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the issue temporarily. This is a sure indication of cracked solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Correction of this issue is easier said than done. And, if you do not possess the tools, skills, and experience to desolder the daughter board, this task is best left to a professional pinball circuit board repair technician. Desoldering the 24 male header pins from the delicate solder pads without damaging the pads or pulling traces is non-trivial.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Continuity Chart of Pinouts for Damaged U2 / U3 Area=====&lt;br /&gt;
It is far too easy for inexperienced technicians to tear up the traces or eyelets at positions U2 and U3 when attempting to remove the daughter board from the System 80B MPU.  If the traces or through holes are damaged, clearly they must be repaired.  Nearly all of the signals which pass from U2 and U3 continue on to the 3 RIOTs at U4, U5, and U6 and also to the PROM 1 position. Below is a handy chart which can be used to ensure continuity between critical parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U2 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U3 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U4, U5 &amp;amp; U6 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U1&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
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=====System 80B Daughter Board Replacement Options=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U2U3AdapterGPE.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Replacement daughter board engineered by Great Plains Electronics. &#039;&#039;Image used with permission from Great Plains Electronics.&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Great Plains Electronics produced a better replacement daughter board. This board is designed to be installed in both the U2 and U3 sockets, eliminating the problem of board flex and cracked solder joints with the daughter board. Unfortunately, it is no longer available. If it needs to be installed on an MPU (especially where the U2/U3 chips are not socketed for easy removal), it is recommended to desolder the chips, fit the replacement board into quality machine pin sockets, then fit the entire assembly into the MPU board for soldering. The board is also designed with redundant traces for all but a few of the signals, as almost all signals are present at both the U2 and the U3 sockets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pinitech has another replacement option called [https://www.pinitech.com/products/gottlieb_piggydeux.php Piggy Deux], but at the time of writing, it is not currently available. This module fits into the TC1 test socket near top of the MPU, which saves a lot of trouble by not requiring removal or repair of the original daughter board. The 2764 EPROM chip simply needs to be removed from the original daughter board and installed into the Piggy Deux module.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====An Alternate to the Daughter Board on System 80B MPU Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Alt D-Board.jpg|thumb|left|200px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Raven No D-Board jecourie.jpg|thumb|right|150px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Raven)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Alt D-Board_Back.jpg|thumb|left|200px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 - Back Side (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Raven No D-Board back jecourie.jpg|thumb|right|150px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 - Back Side (Raven)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB_Sys80B_Alt_D-Board_Cut_Trace.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Trace cut on an 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ====&lt;br /&gt;
A great place to source power for your logic probe while diagnosing the board is across the filter capacitor in the vicinity of connector J1. Connect the black lead of your logic probe to the negative lead of the capacitor for ground. Connect the red lead of your logic probe to the positive lead of the capacitor for 5V. The red lead can also connect to E1, the vertically-aligned 5V jumper wire, below the 6502 chip. Take care to ensure that the clips don&#039;t short to adjacent components.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Future Update****This section works for now, but we can generalize bench power supply construction here:&lt;br /&gt;
[[Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board is much easier to work on if it is removed from the backbox and placed on the test bench. An AT-style PC power supply can be used to power the MPU board on the bench. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Obtain an old PC power supply. If you don&#039;t have an old computer laying around, head on off to the thrift store and pick one up. Remove the power supply from the case by unscrewing the appropriate screws. Be careful not to unscrew the power supply case itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PowerSupply.png|200px|thumb|left|Power Supply]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Clip one of the connectors from the power supply wire bundle and clearly mark on the power supply box the value of each of the colored wires from the power supply. Typically, the yellow wire is 12V, red is 5V, and the black is ground. Strip insulation from the end of the red wire and the black wire as the System 80 MPU requires only 5V and ground to boot. Use alligator clips to connect 5v and ground to the appropriate J1 connection. I use larger alligator clips to make the connection easier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MPUPower.png|200px|thumb|left|J1 Connector]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Mark connector J1 where the positive and negative (common) connection is for the five volts from the computer power supply. The ground connection is on the top of the connector, the 5V connection is on the bottom. The image shows A1J1 with the markings. I took the picture with the board still mounted in the machine. Connect the 5v supply with alligator clips to the positive connector on J1 and the black wire (ground) to the negative connector of J1.&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it! you&#039;re good to go!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====List of Acceptable TTL Chip Substitutes on a System 80 CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Several years ago, Ed from GPE replied to a System 80 chip substitution question on rec.games.pinball [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/msg/86f37cb479ece4c4 here] and later on Pinside [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-chip-replacement#post-4139713 here]. The info from those responses are summarized below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Most of the parts can be freely substituted.  But many cannot.  The clock oscillator circuit (Z3) is one example of a part that cannot be subbed.  Also, some IC&#039;s have hefty loads and cannot be subbed (some of the 7404&#039;s and a 7432).  The 7474 in question on this board can be freely subbed with a 74LS74 or a 74HCT74.  I went through all the standard logic devices on the Gottlieb System 80 MPU.  Based on loading and output characteristics, this is what I get as valid subs for the System 80 MPU.  Of course, substituting some of the parts will ripple through and allow others to be substituted as well - but this can get quite convoluted.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip Designation&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Substitute (Y/N)&lt;br /&gt;
!Acceptable Substitutes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z1 || 4528 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z2 || 7474 || Y || 74LS74 and 74HCT74&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z3&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(1)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || ? || Possibly 74LS04 and/or 74F04; See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z4 || 4081 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z7 || 74LS04 || Y || 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z8 || 7402 || Y || 74LS02 and 74HCT02&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z9 || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z10&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(2)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 74LS05 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z11&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z12&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z13&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z14&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z15 || 7432 || Y || 74F32 and 74S32&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z16&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(5)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z17 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z18 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z19 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z20 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z21 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z22 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z23 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z24 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z25 || 74154 || Y ||74LS154 and 74HCT154&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z26 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z27 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z28 || 74LS139 || Y ||74HCT139&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z29 || 7416 || Y ||7406&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z30 || 7416 || Y ||7406&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z31&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(6)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7408 || Y ||74LS08&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z32 || 7417 || Y ||7407&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z33 || 74154 || Y ||74LS154 and 74HCT154&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z34&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)(8)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || Y ||74LS04, see note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z35&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || Y ||74LS04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z36 || 4069 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(1)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z3 cannot use a 74HC04 or 74HCT04, since these have &amp;quot;high impedance inputs&amp;quot; and won&#039;t work properly in an oscillator circuit. A 74LS04 should work, and possibly 74F04, but the better candidate would be a 74LS04. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(2)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Untested, but it may be possible to use an 74LS00 or 74HCT00 at Z10 in place of 7405. However, this will defeat the ability to test the MPU using the [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=120-102 QuickScan80 tester].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z11 &amp;amp; Z12 only have to sink ~2mA, so they might be able to be replaced with 74LS04, but this might result in noisy switching.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z13 &amp;amp; Z14 are in the switch matrix. 74LS00 might a possible substitute, but substitutions can result in noisy switching, and isn&#039;t recommended here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(5)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: If Z18, 20, and 22 are 74175, do not substitute.  If Z18, 20, and 22 are 74LS175 or 74HCT175, acceptable subs are 74LS04 and 74HCT04.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(6)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z31 can use 74LS08. 74HCT08 can be used as well, but 74HCT08 is not a good board-to-board driver, and isn&#039;t the best option here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: 74HCT04 can be used at Z34 &amp;amp; Z35 as well as 74LS04, but 74HCT04 is not a good board-to-board driver, and isn&#039;t the best option here. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(8)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Had issues with a 74LS04 installed at Z34 in a Haunted House. The side effects were the lower playfield VUK would fire and partially lock on when the lower playfield 5-bank drop target would reset.  Also, the 5-bank drop target would continuously tried to reset when the lower playfield VUK switch was closed. The issue acted as if there was a switch matrix issue, but there wasn&#039;t.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing the quartz crystal with a TTL Oscillator====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Alkaline corrosion may damage the board in such a way that it&#039;s advantageous to replace the original quartz crystal oscillator with a TTL oscillator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_logic_sys80.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Clock section of the system 80 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:oscillator.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The original crystal, Z3, and a few resistors may be replaced with a 900 kHz TTL Oscillator that is packaged like this 16Mhz version.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 clock signal is produced by a 3.57Mhz crystal, a few resistors, and Z3 (a 7404). Z2 divides the clock by 4, resulting in a clock signal of approximately 900 KHz, which is provided at pin 9 of Z2.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you cannot find a 900 KHz TTL oscillator (I couldn’t) you can also use the 1MHz variant, and tune your pin up a little bit. ;-) Game play shouldn&#039;t be impacted, as long as the game doesn&#039;t have a timer related feature, like Timeline. Even games like Timeline will be minimally impacted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_system80_vorher.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The original clock section as found on every System 80, 80A and 80B MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_system80_nachher.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The clock section after installing a TTL oscillator.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To accomplish this mod, remove the following parts&lt;br /&gt;
*Y1 (Crystal)&lt;br /&gt;
*Z2 (TTL 7474)&lt;br /&gt;
*R3, R4 und R5 ( the three resistors above Z2). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Z3 is still needed for other functions. Leave it in place. Now place the oscillator in the Z2 position, with the ‘dot’ in the upper left corner (Pin 1). Because we need the clock signal at pin 9, jumper from pin 8 to pin 9 at the original Z2 position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Using a WDC 65C02 in a System 80/80A/80B MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
Western Design Center (WDC) has reproduced the 6502 in a CMOS version designated 65C02. It works perfectly in all System 80 MPUs with one modification. Pin 36 of the 65C02 must be pulled up to Vcc (5VDC) via a 3K (or 3.3K) pull-up resistor. Pin 36 (BE) is the &amp;quot;bus enable&amp;quot; input which allows external control of the 65C02 busses. Pin 36 is unused by original 6502s and not connected to anything on System 80 MPU boards. Simply tack soldering a 3 - 3.3K resistor between pin 36 and a 5VDC trace will do the trick.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game Resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games sometimes exhibit &amp;quot;resets&amp;quot;, especially when high power coils fire. Assuming you&#039;ve updated the power supply grounds and reflowed or replaced the header pins on the Power Supply, there are a few typical causes for System 80 resets.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 bad caps.JPG|140px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Filtering Capacitors]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#The 12VDC filter capacitor in the cabinet bottom which, if still original, should always be replaced. Originally, this was a 6800uf/25V capacitor. Replace with a 6800uf to 12,000uf/25V cap such as [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=RCT123M025V3550B&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat=| this one] from Great Plains Electronics. The filtered 12VDC is regulated down to 5VDC on the power supply board.  Note that some games have two of these capacitors (as shown). Note: purchase a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=VR3A&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= VR3A capacitor clamp] from Great Plains Electronics when replacing the large capacitor for a clean looking job.&lt;br /&gt;
#The bridge rectifier that originates the 12VDC&lt;br /&gt;
#Missing, broken, or failed coil diodes&lt;br /&gt;
#Poor 5VDC power connections between the power supply and the MPU. The female connector on the MPU connects 5VDC to the MPU via molex crimp-on pins and a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; edge connector pad. Ground is connected in the same way. But you&#039;ve done the ground mods, right?&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A / 80B Resets====&lt;br /&gt;
A failed or failing reset board can &#039;&#039;cause&#039;&#039; resets.  The reset board may cause problems all of the time, or just when the game is under stress, like multiball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To see if the reset board is the problem, disconnect it.  If disconnecting the reset board resolves the issue, there are two fixes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Replace the large caps (C3 and C4).  These have dried out over the years and screw up the timing of these boards.&lt;br /&gt;
* Leave the reset board disconnected&amp;amp;mdash;if someone will always be in the general vicinity of the game to turn it off should the CPU lock up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When first trying to get a System 80A or System 80B game to boot properly, it is best to disconnect the reset board until the game is working.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors C3 and C4 are both 470 uf @ 16 volts. C1 is a 47 uf @ 16 volts. Be careful when unsoldering these capacitors as the foil traces are very delicate. The connector pins also develop bad solder joints so it is wise to resolder it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Updating a dual game PROM MPU (1st generation) to a single game PROM configuration (2nd generation)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted earlier, the first five system 80 games used both sockets at PROM1 and PROM2, populating them with 512 byte masked ROMs. Should one of these ROMs fail, you may be able to find a replacement, but they are becoming more pricey, more difficult to find, and are still prone to failure as they age.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A more flexible solution would be to update the MPU to use a single 2716 UVEPROM at the PROM1 socket. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Modifications must be made to both the solder side and the component side of the board. See the pictures below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Component side modification:&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the trace that extends from the left of Z10 between pins 6 and 7. A Dremel with a &amp;quot;ball shaped&amp;quot; cutter bit works beautifully for this. In the second picture below, the cut has already been made. I&#039;ve filled the cut hole with black Sharpie! to better show the location of the cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder side modifications:&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the traces leading to PROM1 socket, pins 19 and 21. Again, the cuts have been highlighted with black Sharpie!&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 19, to the PROM2 socket, pin 21 (connects A10)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 21, to the PROM2 socket, pin 24 (connects +5V to Vpp)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 22, to the PROM2 socket, pin 18 (connects A9)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from Z10, pin 13 to the via just below and to the right of Z9 (as you view the back of the board)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Your MPU board is now configured for any System 80 game. All that remains is to acquire a 2716 EPROM containing the game&#039;s code. If you have the original ROM images, the DOS command to combine them is shown below. Modify as appropriate to match the file names you have.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b prom1.bin + prom2.bin combined.716&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU may also be used in a System 80A game if U2/U3 are updated, and in a System 80B game if considerably more mods are made which frankly, just aren&#039;t worth it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 1st Generation to 2nd Generation Board Updates&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DremelBallCutter.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Dremel Tool with &amp;quot;Ball Cutter&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Z10TraceCut.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut in trace extending Left from Z10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PROM2-to-PROM1JumpersAndTraceCuts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;PROM2-to-PROM1 Socket Cuts and Jumpers&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Z10-Pin13-to-ViaJumper.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper connecting Z10, pin 13 to a &amp;quot;via&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a 2732 at the PROM2 position in a System 80B MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
====...in games that &amp;quot;normally&amp;quot; use a 2716====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to use a 2732 at position PROM2 with an MPU jumpered to use a 2732 for a game that normally populates that position with a 2716. Simply &amp;quot;double-up&amp;quot; the 2716 ROM image, and burn it into a 2732.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS command to accomplish this is ... copy /b image.2716 + image.2716 image.2732&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====...using an MA-1133 or MA-774 MPU in games that REQUIRE a 2732====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80B games require 4K of code space at PROM 2, which dictates a 2732 EPROM. An MPU built to use a 2716 EPROM at PROM2 can be modified to work, as is discussed below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU schematics of game manuals, such as &amp;quot;Bad Girls&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Big House&amp;quot;, state that E3 is directly connected to AB15 (address bus 15).  However, there is no mention of the factory modification (outlined below) performed on CPU boards stamped MA-1133.  Equally, should the user have an MA-774 CPU board, (used in games starting with Chicago Cubs Triple Play and ending with Robo-War), this modification can be performed to use the board in the following games.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Excalibur&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Girls&lt;br /&gt;
*Big House&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Shots&lt;br /&gt;
*Bone Busters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
*Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PROM2 is actually located at the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot; on the PCB. The area on the board marked &amp;quot;PROM 2&amp;quot;, which has solder pads but no socket, is a legacy carried over from the first generation System 80 CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following information was taken from a service bulletin located in the back of the 1992 Gottlieb® parts catalog.  This modification makes AB15 available to PROM 2, allowing the use of a 2732 EPROM at this position. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This procedure can be used in reverse if you have an MA-1133 board and you need to use a 2716 at position PROM2.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#If jumper E4 is installed, remove it. You will find the top of the E4 jumper located immediately to the right of the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a jumper at E3. This connects the pad marked E3 to the dual pad marked E4.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, follow the trace from the pad marked E3 Southeast 1/8 inch, then South about 1/2 inch to a via. &lt;br /&gt;
#Find this via on the component side of the board. It will extend to the left to another via.&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the trace between the two vias.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a jumper from TC1, pin 35 to the right solder pad of the via which was just cut.&lt;br /&gt;
#All other jumpers should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80B PROM 2 2732 Update&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_sysS80b_2732_prom2_front.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;E4 removed, E3 installed, and trace cut below E3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB sysS80b 2732 prom2 back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper from TC1 pin 35 to E3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 drvr pw.png|160px|thumb|left|The System 80A / 80B Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Driver board is responsible for all controlled lamps, relays, and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;all solenoids&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via a simple interface between A1J4 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.  Although the driver board went through some minor changes over the years, the same board can be adapted for all of the System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; total of 52 &#039;&#039;&#039;lamp circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the interface provides &amp;quot;device select&amp;quot; signals for each of the 74175s (Quad-D Flip-Flops) on the driver board, and 4 &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; of data that is loaded (or &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot;) into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives an MPS-A13 or MPS-U45 transistor, (NDS-U45 transistors were used in place of MPS-U45s in some cases). &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that there are some dedicated transistors, which control specific game relay coils across the System 80 / 80A platforms.  Relays such as the game over, tilt, and coin lockout relays are controlled by Q1, Q2, and Q3 respectively.  The tilt and game over relays use the same designation for the System 80B platform, however, the use of a coin lockout relay was abandoned by this time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_drvr_board_coin_ctrs.JPG|160px|thumb|left|Driver Board with Coin Counter Transistors Highlighted ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;solenoids circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the driver board uses signals directly from the CPU to enable transistors on the driver board which turn on up to 9 solenoids.  For solenoid control, the driver board uses MPS-U45, 2N3055, and 2N6043 transistors.  Starting and ending with the System 80 platform, (games from Spiderman to Haunted House), three transistors were reserved to drive optional mechanical coin counters. These mechanical coin counter solenoids and associated transistors are: solenoid 3 (Q54), 4 (Q55), and 7 (Q56). Starting with the System 80A platform, (Devil&#039;s Dare), these transistors were no longer reserved for coin counters, and were used for other functions. Equally, the 3 diodes associated with these 3 transistors were changed to 3 zero ohm jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;sound&#039;&#039;&#039; signals (S1, S2, S4, S8) also pass through the driver board at Z13, a 7404 Hex Inverter. See below for S16 and S32.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Repurposed Driver Board Circuits====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb under pf transistor.JPG‎|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Remote Transistor Mounted Under the Playfield]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since quite a few System 80 games employ more than 9 solenoids, and since the original driver board design will drive a maximum of 9 solenoids, Gottlieb® repurposed some lamp outputs to drive &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot; which drive additional solenoids.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb ma1011 trans board.JPG‎|160px|thumb|left| A Typical Transistor Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once playfields became littered with numerous &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot;, Gottlieb® opted to merge some of these transistors into a transistor driver board.  The transistor driver board started to appear on Gottlieb® games nearly midway through the System 80B platform, with the game Victory.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound S16 and S32 signals are also repurposed lamp outputs. For instance, Haunted House and Black Hole both repurpose L9 to S16. Robo-War repurposes lamp 4 to S16. Note that S16 is not consistently implemented across the System 80 family. Note also that references to the usage of S32 are difficult to find.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 driver screws.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Nuts / Screws Which Secure the 2N3055s Collector to Drive Line]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Make certain to inspect and tighten the screws which secure the 2N3055 TO-3 transistors to the driver board.  Specifically, the screws / nuts as marked in the pic.  They tie the transistor cases (collector) to the respective solenoid drive lines.  If these cases are not secured, the transistors will not function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Remote Mounted Transistors==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:UnderPFTransistor.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Under Playfield Transistor, with Emitter, Base, and Collector Labeled]]System 80 games have just nine dedicated solenoid circuits on the driver board.  To overcome this threshold, Gottlieb® added step-up transistors mounted to brackets underneath the playfield. Early on, a lamp driven transistor is used to &amp;quot;pre-drive&amp;quot; the larger solenoid transistor. However, there are instances where a solenoid transistor is used to pre-drive a remoted mounted transistor.  Eventually, Premier got smart and started mounting up to three transistors to PCBs, but only on later 80B games (Arena and newer). These PCBs were mounted behind the game&#039;s display board or on the side wall of the lower cabinet.  In some cases, primarily 80B games, the game&#039;s diagnostics will drive these transistors during test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 80 games, under playfield transistors were originally 2N5875s or 2N5879s. The failure rate of the original transistors tends to be rather high. 30 years can be a long time for a transistor of that technology. Should one fail, it can be replaced with its beefier siblings&amp;amp;mdash;2N5883 or 2N5884. An MJ2955 will work also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games used a mix of 2N5879 transistors and MJ2955 transistors for driving flash lamps and coils.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A ground wire is always connected to the tip of the transistor (collector) and leads to ground. On System 80 games, this wire is green/yellow (Gottlieb® wire color code 54).  On 80B games, ground wires are plain white with no trace (Gottlieb® wire color code 9).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;emitter&amp;quot; should be connected to the lug of the coil that has the non-banded side of the diode facing it (black-blue-blue in this picture).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; should be connected to the drive wire from the driver board (brown-red-red in this picture).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solenoids which use a remote mounted transistor cannot be enabled by temporarily grounding the pre-drive transistor&#039;s tab to ground. This test is typically performed to check the integrity of the wiring from the drive transistor to the solenoid.  This test however does not confirm if the drive transistor is good or not. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Remote Mounted Transistor Update=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Remote transistor circuitry.png|left|thumb|180px|Gottlieb® Remote Transistor Circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During the run of Black Hole, Gottlieb® released a service bulletin recommending that the existing 10Kohm pullup resistor be changed to a 4.7Kohm resistor when changing from a 2N5875 to a 2N5879 or equivalent.  Affected Black Hole games were marked serial number 6271 to 9160.  However, there were several games prior to and after Black Hole, where a pullup resistor was never installed.  And, don&#039;t always bank on the playfields installed in a game being original to the cabinet&#039;s serial number.  Case in point is a recently acquired Black Hole where the main playfield had a factory pull up resistor for the ball release coil transistor, but the 3 coils on the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole#Pull_Up_Resistors_Added_to_Remote_Transistors_.28Centrally_Located.29_on_Lower_Playfield lower playfield which use remote transistors] did not have the pull resistors added.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is highly recommended to add this resistor.  This upgrade will decrease the chances of particular solenoids, which use a remote mounted transistor, from locking on when the game is powered up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Pullup circuitry.png|left|thumb|180px|Gottlieb® Remote Transistor Circuit w/ Pull Up Resistor Upgrade]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 4.7K resistor is soldered to the base of the remote mounted transistor, and then tied to the 24vdc solenoid bus.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Power On &amp;quot;Thunk&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
Due to the driver board design, certain solenoids and / or relays can pulse briefly as soon as a game is turned on.  To rectify the issue, please refer to the [[#Power_on_.22Thunk.22|Power on Thunk]] section above.  This applies to potentially all System 80/80A/80B games, where the solenoid / relay signal passes through one of the 74175 chips on the driver board.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Correcting Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb&#039;s implementation to control solenoids was, at a top level, identical to every other game manufacturer. Power is present at the coil, sometimes routed through the &amp;quot;Game Over&amp;quot; relay. A path to ground is switched on by a transistor which is enabled by upstream TTL logic. For the System 80 platform, this TTL logic is located on the MPU board. Signals are conveyed from the MPU to the driver board via the A1J4-to-A3J1 wire harness. These signals directly switch a path to ground on for one of the 9 designed-in solenoid circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted above, to accommodate game implementations needing more than 9 solenoids, Gottlieb repurposed some of the lamp driver circuits, driving 2N5875 (generally) transistors either screwed to the bottom of the playfield, or located on dedicated transistor boards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solenoid problems can be divided into two simple categories, solenoids that do not engage and solenoids that are &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot;. Correcting these two situations is discussed below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Solenoid Doesn&#039;t Turn On=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, note that not all solenoids are always tested by the built in solenoid diagnostics. The first example of this is the coin counter solenoids (numbered 3, 4, and 7). To avoid artificially incrementing the coin drop counters, these coils are not pulsed. Other coils may be pulsed during lamp test. This is most often the case with System 80B games, using repurposed lamp driver circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Problem Determination Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the game turned on and a game started, use a DMM to measure for coil power at the coil lug (generally either 24 or 38VDC). Power should be present at both lugs of the coil. If present on the coil lug attached to the banded side of the diode and not present at the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode, then the coil winding or it&#039;s attachment to one of the coil lugs is open.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Next, test paths to ground for the coil. Attach a wire with clip leads to game ground. Any green wire with yellow stripe will work fine. First, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;BRIEFLY&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; touch the other end of the wire to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;non-banded&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; side of the coil lug. The coil should pull in. If it does not, then either the coil winding is open or the coil wire is not securely attached to the coil lug. Next, identify the driver board transistor that switches ground for the solenoid in question. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;BRIEFLY&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; touch the other end of the wire to the tab (MPS-U45 or 2N6043) or case (2N3055) of that transistor. The solenoid should pull in. If it does, this proves the path from the coil to the transistor, but doesn&#039;t prove anything about the transistor. If it doesn&#039;t pull in, then there is a break in continuity between the transistor and the coil. Likely suspects are the connector pins, the IDC connection of the wire to the connector, and the actual wire itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At this point in the process, we know that the coil has power, and the path to ground via the transistor is valid. The next step is to test the actual transistor. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing an MPS-U45 (or NDS-U45) or an MPS-A13 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for one of the flanking legs.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between 1.2 and 1.4 should be displayed for the other flanking leg.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing a 2N6043 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for each flanking leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TO-3Case2N3055.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Emitter, Base, and Collector parts of a TO-3 form transistor, like the 2N3055. Note that the emitter and the base pins are closer to one end of the TO-3 case.]]&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing a 2N3055 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the metal casing of the transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the legs in turn.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for one of the legs.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement of &amp;quot;null&amp;quot; (no reading) should be displayed for the other leg.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on the &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; lead of the transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the other lead of the transistor (the &amp;quot;emitter&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the case of the transistor (the &amp;quot;collector&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol start =4&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Test the output signal from the MPU at the driver board. This test completes the test of the driver board circuitry. If this test doesn&#039;t identify a problem, then the problem must lie upstream with the inter-board harness or on the MPU board itself. With a logic probe, and the game in solenoid test, probe the following points for solenoids 1 through 9. 1 - non-banded side of CR6, 2 - R53, 3 - non-banded side of CR2, 4 - non-banded side of CR4, 5 - R56, 6 - R59, 7 - non-banded side of CR4, 8 non-banded side of CR1, 9 - non-banded side of CR5. With the game in Solenoid test, each solenoid should be pulsed in order, with the pulse easily detectable with a logic probe on the appropriate spot. Note that the coin counter solenoids will not be pulsed in test, and games that don&#039;t use every solenoid won&#039;t pulse unused solenoid circuits. Consult the manual for solenoid numbering for a particular game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Test the output signal of the TTL circuitry on the MPU. Solenoids 1 through 9 are all enabled via signals from Z29 and Z30 on the MPU board. Both ICs are 7416s. Z29 pins 2, 4, 10, and 12 drive solenoids 1 through 4 respectively. Z30 pins 2, 4, 6, 10 and 12 drive solenoids 5, 6, 8, 9, and 7 respectively (note the order is not strictly ascending). If the output signal on the MPU is present, but the signal is not present on the driver board, then the problem is probably the inter-board connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Solenoid Locked On=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A solenoid (or flasher) that is &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot; is caused by coil power having a continuous path to ground. Remember, coil power is always present at the coil when a game is started and the game over relay is powered (for System 80/80A/80B games). 99.9% of the time, this continuous path to ground is caused by a shorted drive transistor; either an under-playfield transistor, a transistor on a transistor board, or a transistor on the driver board itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, a locked on coil will heat up, burn through the insulation on the coil windings, and cause direct shorts between windings. This effectively reduces the length of the wire and hence, the resistance. Once the resistance is reduced to less than 2 ohms or so, the continuous current through the transistor and the coil cause both to be irreparably damaged. For this reason, if you find a transistor shorted, check the associated coil. Likewise, if you find a coil shorted, or with significantly reduced resistance (ohms), check the associated transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some solenoid driver circuits, like solenoid 8 that uses a 2N3055, are &amp;quot;pre-driven&amp;quot; by an MPS-U45 (or NDS-U45). Be sure to test the associated pre-driver transistor too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Lamp problems are common with most any pinball machine, and Gottlieb® System 80/A/B games are no exception.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For controlled and GI lamps, Gottlieb® System 80/A/B games use either a #44 or #47 lamp.  The choice of which lamp to use is the preference of the game owner.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For games with flash lamps, a #67 bulb is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is highly recommended &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; to replace or remove lamps with the power to the game on.  There are primarily two reasons for this.&lt;br /&gt;
#Some lamp sockets must have their mounting brackets bent back to access the bulb for replacement.  In turn, the potential of inadvertently shorting one lamp socket to another is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
#Lamps are constructed of an equal balance of glass and conductive metal.  If a bulb slips out of one&#039;s grasp when trying to remove or install with the power on, there are many areas in the bottom of the cabinet, where the metal of the bulb can short across.  A short across other circuits could potentially lead to other unplanned or otherwise unnecessary repairs needed to perform.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So in short, change or remove bulbs with the game&#039;s power off, just to be safe.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All System 80 games have three separate lamp circuits, and some have a fourth.  The circuits are comprised of:&lt;br /&gt;
*General illumination for the backbox&lt;br /&gt;
*General illumination for the playfield&lt;br /&gt;
*Controlled lamps for primarily the playfield, although, there can be four controlled lamps located in the backbox (shoot again, high score game to date, tilt, and game over), depending on the era of the game.&lt;br /&gt;
*Auxiliary lamps used for effect, such as chaser lamps used around the backglass border of Mars God of War and Black Hole.  Auxiliary lamps are not used on all games.  Jump to the [[#Auxiliary_Lamp_Driver_Boards | Auxiliary Lamp Board section]] to see what games use auxiliary lamps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are several approaches used to determine the source of a lamp problem, and how it can be resolved.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
      &lt;br /&gt;
====Bad Bulbs====&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing when troubleshooting lamp problems, and this may seem blatantly obvious, but determine whether the lamp is good or not.  The bulk of all lamp problems are simply burned out light bulbs.  Always try a known good bulb as the solution first. Don&#039;t rely on the bulb being brand new either.  The ratio of brand new, bad bulbs is slim, but there is that chance a new bulb is not good.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Dying battery.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Making certain an old 9v battery is putting out an acceptable lower voltage]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Testing bulb.JPG|thumb|right|200px|Testing a 6v bulb with a dying 9v battery]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The bulbs used in a System 80/A/B game are powered by ~6 volts, (the exception is the bulbs powered for the lower [[#Replacing_Black_Hole_Lower_Playfield_Illumination_Lamps_with_.2344_Lamps | playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House]]).  A great way to quickly test a bulb is to use a dying 9v battery.  Don&#039;t use a fresh 9v battery, or you will shorten the life of the bulb.  Find a battery that is roughly putting out 7v - 8.25v.  An old battery from a smoke detector works pretty well.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Place the tip of the bulb on one of the battery terminals, and cock the outer metal casing of the bulb to touch the other terminal.  Orientation of the bulb with regards to the positive and negative terminals does not make a difference in this case.  Do not hold the bulb across the battery terminals for very long.  Just long enough to determine if the bulb&#039;s filament is lighting or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may also use a known working socket to test bulbs in...but that requires the game to be on while testing...which always presents some risk and is not recommended.  However, if there is no other option but to use a known good socket for testing bulbs, the preferred method is to use a socket located in the backbox lamp insert panel.  This unfortunately does not pertain to 65% of the System 80B games, because a fluorescent lamp was used for backbox illumination for them.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Games that have not been played in a long time develop a film of corrosion between the lamp &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; and the lamp socket which prevents conductivity. Simply removing the lamp and scratching the nipple with something abrasive (like rubbing it on the lockdown bar receiver) may fix many &amp;quot;lamp out&amp;quot; problems. In some cases, a light socket cleaning stick (available from the Pinball Resource [http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html here]) may be useful for cleaning the lamp socket. Gottlieb® lamp sockets are comparatively beefy and do not fail often.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Power Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
Next, make certain there is power at the lamp socket.  The game will have to be turned on for the following procedures.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====General Illumination Lamp Power Issues=====&lt;br /&gt;
GI lamps are powered by ~6VAC.  When testing a GI lamp socket for power, each lead of the DMM (now set in AC mode) will be placed on the two leads of the lamp socket.  If there isn&#039;t power at the lamp socket, suspect a bad fuse first.  Keep in mind that the playfield GI and backbox GI for System 80, 80A, and a few 80B games (the first 3 80B games and the last 2), have two separate fuses located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet.  These are typically higher amperage rated fast-blo fuses. The backbox GI on a System 80 game is always on when the game is turned on.  If the backbox GI fuse is good, and no backbox lights are lit, the inline connection which feeds the GI could possibly be bad.  Unfortunately, this connection is not standard from game to game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80TiltRelayAnnotated.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Gottlieb® System 80 Tilt Relay with GI Lamps/Tilt Lamp Make-Break Switch Highlighted. This tilt relay is from a Gottlieb® Spiderman]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The playfield GI is always powered on too, except when the game is in tilt mode.  If the game was not tilted and /or the tilt switches are not stuck closed, check the switch stack on the tilt relay.  These switches can sometimes get bent or misaligned.  If the playfield GI fuse is good and the tilt relay switches are good, the inline connections may be suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the fuse to a particular GI circuit is bad, and continues to blow every time a new fuse is installed, a short is probably causing the issue. A shorted lamp GI circuit is probably the worst and most difficult lamp related issue to resolve.  In most cases, the GI power lines are uninsulated wiring, which make them susceptible to shorted circuits.  First, determine if the GI short originates on the backbox lamp insert or on the playfield.  GI shorts on the playfield are typically more common than backbox lamp insert shorts.  Pop bumper lamps are generally not CPU controlled, and are included in the playfield GI string (some System 80B games are the exception, [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1975 RoboWar] being an example).  Also, depending on the game, star rollover lamps and kickout hole lamps are sometimes part of the playfield GI circuit.  Consult the game manual for these particulars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although it can be a pain and time consuming, the best approach is to remove all of the bulbs in the associated shorted GI string.  In removing all of the bulbs, we are trying to isolate whether the problem is a bad, defective bulb, or one of the GI power lines is shorting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Controlled Lamp Power Issues===== &lt;br /&gt;
Controlled lamps are powered by ~6VDC.  When testing a controlled lamp socket, the red lead of the DMM (now set in DC mode) will be placed on the lamp socket mounting bracket.  The bare wire soldered to the lamp socket&#039;s mounting bracket is the power bus not the ground bus, so be careful.  The black lead of the DMM will be placed on ground. If working under the playfield, the ground plate in the bottom of the cabinet is a good place to connect to ground.  If working in the backbox, find where one of the green wires with a yellow trace is screwed to the metalwork, and place the lead on it.  Depending on the game, System 80 side rails, lockdown bar assemblies, and other associated trim metalwork, except the coin door, were not grounded from the factory like Bally, Williams, and Stern.  Therefore, using any of these as a ground reference is not recommended.  Gottlieb® did start grounding the metalwork at the start of the System 80A platform.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there isn&#039;t any power at the lamp socket, suspect a bad fuse first.  The controlled lamp circuit has a separate fuse on the transformer board, and is normally a 5 amp slo-blo fuse.  If the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_fuses fuse tests fine], there is a separate set of switch leaves on the tilt relay, which pass the controlled lamp power to the playfield lamps.  Inspect and adjust these switches if necessary. If the controlled lamp fuse and the switches on the tilt relay both test good, there may be an issue with the source power connection to the rectified DC circuit on the game transformer board. Unfortunately, System 80/80A/80B used different connector designations for controlled lamp source power for different games. Consult the game manual / schematics to find the source of 6VDC on the transformer board power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the fuse for the controlled lamps is bad, and continues to blow after a new fuse is installed, suspect a bad controlled lamp bridge rectifier.  The lamp bridge rectifier is located on the transformer board.  Please see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier Testing a Bridge Rectifier] portion of the PinWiki guides. Before testing the bridge rectifier, try to isolate it as much as possible.  By isolating it, this will minimize the possibly skewed readings caused by attached devices (lamps and the power transformer).  Two key things to do would be to remove the lines which connect the bridge to the playfield and backbox lights, and remove the controlled lamp fuse. Keep in mind that a bridge rectifier can fail in such a way where it may not blow the controlled lamp fuse.  Although, a failed bridge blowing a fuse is a tad more common than not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of the above tests good, there may be a short on the controlled lamp bus line.  This is not a very common occurrence, but it can happen.  Inspect the underside of the playfield for any wires or brackets touching the controlled lamp bus line, which shouldn&#039;t be touching.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bad Lamp Sockets====&lt;br /&gt;
Third, determine if the lamp socket is good.  Some games have been through the wringer, and the sockets didn&#039;t hold up too well due to abuse, a damp environment, or other various reasons.  Start by turning the &#039;&#039;&#039;power to the game off&#039;&#039;&#039;.  If the socket has some corrosion, try using a lamp socket cleaning tool first.  If a lamp socket cleaning tool is not available, a small wire brush used for cleaning copper fittings, a rolled up piece of 220 grit sandpaper, or a Dremel tool with a small wire brush attachment can all be used.  After the socket has been cleaned, place the bulb in the socket for the following procedures.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If testing a &#039;&#039;&#039;GI lamp&#039;&#039;&#039; socket, use the dying 9v battery trick again. Remove the fuse of the particular GI circuit which the lamp socket being tested is located.  Connect the terminals of the 9v battery to the bulb socket with alligator clip leads.  Be careful not to short the alligator clips to each other at the battery&#039;s terminals.  Equally be very careful not to short the clip leads to an adjacent switch on the pinball machine, or anything else for that matter.   One clip will connect to one side of the socket, and the other lead will go to the other side of the socket.  &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT ALLOW THE BATTERY TO STAY CONNECTED VERY LONG&#039;&#039;&#039;.  Since this is a GI lamp circuit, other lamps in the string will be powered by the battery.  If the battery is connected to the string for too long, the battery will start to get hot.  The battery does not have enough power to light a string of bulbs for very long.  The lamp may only glow dimly, but that is enough to determine if the socket is good or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If testing a &#039;&#039;&#039;controlled lamp&#039;&#039;&#039; socket, remove all of the connector housings from the bottom of the driver board first (A3-J2/J3/J4).  Then remove the fuse for the controlled lamp circuit.  Clip one lead of the battery to the lamp socket mounting bracket and the other to the solder tab.  The orientation of the negative and positive leads of the battery terminals makes no difference.  Again, keep the battery connected just long enough to see if the lamp lights to determine whether the lamp socket is good or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp(s) Will Not Turn On=====&lt;br /&gt;
So, the bulb is good; the socket is good; there&#039;s power at the socket; and the lamp still won&#039;t light.  Well, this occurrence can only really happen if there is a controlled lamp involved.  If all three of the above things apply, it can only mean one thing - the bulb is not getting properly grounded, and will not turn on.  The source of this problem may be due to several different issues.  But, it is best to start at the bulb socket, and work backward towards the CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Determine if the connector and wiring from the output of the driver board to the lamp socket is good.  While the wires are usually solid, the single sided edge connectors are a frequent cause for loss of conductivity. Simply &amp;quot;buzzing&amp;quot; the connection from the lamp socket back to and onto the driver board may uncover the issue.  With the power off, check the continuity between the solder tab of the lamp socket and the collector (right leg) of the associated lamp transistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is continuity, it’s time to test the transistor. Transistors fail &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; (lamp never lights) and &amp;quot;shorted&amp;quot; (lamp is constantly on). A simple comparison of &amp;quot;diode check&amp;quot; readings between &amp;quot;same type&amp;quot; transistors on the driver board can identify failed transistors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing an &#039;&#039;&#039;MPS-A13&#039;&#039;&#039; transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to diode test&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;red&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead of your DMM on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing an &#039;&#039;&#039;MPS-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; transistor (or &#039;&#039;&#039;NDS-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;CEN-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; which are equivalents).&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to diode test&lt;br /&gt;
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;red&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead of your DMM on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingMPS-U45WithMPS-A13.jpg|200px|left|thumb|An NDS-U45 replaced by the less expensive MPS-A13. This replacement is advised ONLY if the transistor drives a single lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80/80A/80B architecture does not utilize a lamp matrix. Controlled lamps are driven by individual transistors on the driver board, exactly like Gottlieb® System 1 games and Bally/Stern 6800 games. Driver board operation is pretty simple. The CPU places a signal on Logical Device lines 1 through 4 (LD1...LD4) and &amp;quot;strobes&amp;quot; the appropriate 74175 device select pin to latch the LDx values into the 74175 Quad FlipFlop&#039;s outputs. These outputs then drive the associated transistor(s) on, providing a path to ground for the lamp. That&#039;s all there is to it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transistors on the driver board are a mix of 2N6043s, MPS-U45s (or NDS-U45s), 2N3055s, and MPS-A13s. 2N6043s drive coils. Generally, the MPS-U45 transistors drive coils, pre-drive coils via remote mounted transistors and 2N3055s, or drive more than one lamp. The 2N3055s drive coils (in some cases, not all 3 of these are used in a game). The MPS-A13s generally drive a single lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MPS-A13 transistors are still widely available and cheap. MPS-U45s are obsolete but may be replaced with CEN-U45 transistors [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=cen-u45&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= available from Great Plains Electronics] and Mouser.  A much cheaper MPS-A13 may sometimes be substituted for the less common and more expensive MPS-U45, as shown in the pic at left for Q22. Although this will work, you must ensure that the transistor is driving only a single lamp. This obviously limits the &amp;quot;portability&amp;quot; of the driver board. If Q22 were used to switch anything other than a single lamp on, it will be destroyed. Substitute with caution. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2N6043 transistors used on the driver board are still available but becoming pricey. 2N6043s can be replaced by a TIP-102.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; A nice convention Gottlieb® used with System 80 games is that lamp &amp;quot;n&amp;quot; is driven by transistor &amp;quot;n+1&amp;quot; on the driver board. This is always true.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the transistor tests fine, a gate on the 74175 may be bad, which is rare but does happen. Use a logic probe on the input and output of the associated lamp gate to check definitively.  Again, comparing the signal between different drive pins can help identify a failed driver circuit. 74175s can easily and reliably be tested using the procedure in the &amp;quot;General for all games&amp;quot; section, [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit here].  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If more than one controlled lamp is not lighting, check the game’s manual / schematics to see if the bulbs are related in some way. &lt;br /&gt;
*When four lamps are not lighting, it may appear that the 74175 which controls the lamp transistors is at fault. This can happen, but the more commonly related issue is that the device select signal for a particular 74175 is lost between the CPU and driver board.  This can be due to a bad connection at A1J4 or A3J1.  See the chart below for the lamp device select signal path. &lt;br /&gt;
*When a whole group of lamps fail to light, review the schematics to see if the lamp transistors share a common ground path. Again, poor connections at the driver board, or the path to ground (generally green with yellow tracer or solid white wire) on the bottom board ground strap may be the root cause.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the connections, associated 74175, and lamp transistors are all correct, the circuitry on the CPU board is probably at fault.  Again, using a logic probe to determine which component on the CPU board has failed is the best course of action.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Device Select&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;CPU Connector&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Driver Input&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Driver Quad Flip-Flop (74175)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Transistor #s&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Lamp #s&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS1 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-C&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-C&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q1-Q4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Game Over relay, Tilt relay, coin lockout, L3&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS2 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q5-Q8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L4-L7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS3 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-E&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-E&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q9-Q12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L8, sound 16, L10, L11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS4 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-D&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-D&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q13-Q16&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L12-L15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS5 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-H&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-H&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q17-Q20&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L16-L19&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS6 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-F&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-F&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q21-Q24&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L20-L23&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS7 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-K&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-K&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q33-Q36&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L24-L27&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS8 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-J&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-J&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q37-Q40&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L28-L31&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS9 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-M&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-M&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L32-L35&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS10 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-L&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-L&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L36-L39&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS11 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-N&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-N&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L40-L43&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS12 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-P&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-P&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z12*&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;Q45-Q48 &amp;amp; Q49-Q52&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L44-L47 &amp;amp; L48-L51 (inverse of L44-L47)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;*Z12 not only outputs four lamp signals like all the other 11 74175s, but it also outputs four inverted lamp signals.  These signals are typically used for lamps located on opposite sides of the playfield which alternate on / off between each other.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp(s) Will Not Turn Off=====&lt;br /&gt;
If a single lamp is involved, or only a handful of lamps with different lamp device select signals, suspect the lamps&#039; associated drive transistors.  If a group of four lamps will not turn off, and they are all controlled by the same 74175, suspect the associated 74175 or the device select for that 74175 (&amp;quot;DS&amp;quot; on the schematics). If numerous groups of four lamps will not turn off, suspect the associated 7404 on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
*Z17 for DS1-DS5 device select signals or,&lt;br /&gt;
*Z24 for DS6-DS11 device select signals or,&lt;br /&gt;
*Z26 for DS12-DS16 device select signals.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the lamps involved originate from more than one group of device select signals, suspect the 74154 at Z25 or, backing up one more step, the 6532 RIOT at U5.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamps===&lt;br /&gt;
Flash lamps are #67 powered by the 24VDC solenoid bus.  They are controlled like any of the coils that have a under-playfield transistor.  To step down 24V to a more lamp-friendly 13V, the power is routed through a single 4 ohm 7 watt resistor for powering paired flash lamps wired in parallel.  An 8 ohm 5 watt resistor is used for powering single flash lamps. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On early 80B games, the power resistors are mounted to a small bakelite board under the playfield (up to 4), and the transistors are mounted to a bracket (up to 6).  On later games, starting with Arena, new PCBs were introduced that had the transistor, power resistor, and 4.7K pullup resistor all on the same board (up to 3).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If lamps are locked on, or won&#039;t work, the remote mounted transistors associated with them have failed.  Generally, the pre-drive transistor on the driver board has also failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Under-playfield flash lamp transistors are 2N5879s or MJ2955s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Aux Board Headers.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Reflowed Header Pins on Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For issues with lamps controlled by the auxiliary lamp driver board, follow the troubleshooting section for controlled lamps [[Gottlieb_System_80#Controlled_Lamp_Issues | above]].  Additionally, make certain that +5vdc and ground are present on the auxiliary driver board.  If either are missing, the potential for cracked header connections is possible.  Remove the existing solder from the header connections, and resolder the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Unconventional Lamps====&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games added quite a few special lighting effects.  Gottlieb® never used software when hardware would do.  This is probably harkens back to their electromechanical days.  So, there are usually some creative, different ways used to control lamps.  For instance:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Monte Carlo and Spring Break have Auxiliary Lamp Driver boards where power to a bunch of #44 lamps is switched by a relay.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Genesis drives #67 lamps with an auxiliary power board.  Power to this board is controlled via a relay that turns itself to activate the &amp;quot;reveal&amp;quot;; this relay is activated by a lamp driver, but the relay will keep itself on until one revolution of the reveal gimmick is done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Spring Break has eight #44 lamps controlled by one relay; the relay is controlled with a lamp driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Diagnosing these is generally the same as other lamps, but first, understand the peculiar arrangement for the game in question.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Switch Matrix Operation ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb System 80 switch matrix is implemented via the 6532 RIOT (RAM, I/O, Timer) at U4, strobe ICs at Z11 and Z12 (7404), return ICs at Z13 and Z14 (7400), and DIP switch &amp;quot;read enables&amp;quot; at Z15. The switch matrix simply provides a TTL &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; pulse on a single switch matrix column, then listens for a &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; return on the switch rows. Closed switches complete the circuit and enable a switch matrix return. Switch returns are processed then the next column is strobed. The game software &amp;quot;debounces&amp;quot; all switches to accommodate less than electrically and mechanically perfect switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Common Switch Matrix Faults ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isolating Switch Problems to the MPU or the Game Wiring =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since Gottlieb uniquely used edge connectors instead of more common header pins, isolating switch matrix issues to either the MPU or to the game wiring is not quite as easy. However, &amp;quot;jumping&amp;quot; from a switch column to a switch row is possible using the same technique. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into switch test&lt;br /&gt;
*Using a short length of wire, short each column drive to each row return, one at a time&lt;br /&gt;
*A single switch closure should be shown as each connection is made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a single switch closure is shown for each and every connection made, then the MPU circuitry is probably undamaged, and the playfield wiring, switches, and diodes should be examined. If a switch closure isn&#039;t registered, or more than one switch closure is reported, then the MPU circuitry is damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== MPU Switch Matrix Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Blown Switch Matrix ICs ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80SwitchMatrixICs.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Identifying the System 80 MPU switch matrix ICs. Z15 is just below Z11/Z12.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80MPUBlownZ13.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Diode testing Z13 uncovers a shorted IC caused by shorting HV to the switch matrix wiring.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The most prevalent reason for switch matrix failures is shorting high voltage (i.e. coil voltage) to the switch matrix. As always, it&#039;s inadvisable to work on your game with the power on. Sometimes, &amp;quot;fish paper&amp;quot; designed to isolate switch blades from higher voltage conductors becomes displaced, shorting high voltage to the switch matrix, and damaging some/all of the switch matrix ICs. An example of such a switch is the kicking target under the upper playfield in Haunted House.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A quick check of Z11 through Z15 using the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit diode test] will reveal failed ICs easily. An example is pictured at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this same diode test on U4, comparing the results to U5 and U6, may help to identify a failed RIOT.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Alkaline Damaged Connectors ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Playfield switch wiring is connected to MPU edge connector J6, which is sometimes directly below, but at the very least in close proximity, of the OEM NiCad battery. These batteries frequently leak their corrosive contents onto the board, affecting nearby connectors, including the switch matrix connectors at J6 (playfield) and J5 (cabinet). Close examination of the friction pins in the connector as well as the copper traces at the edge connector may reveal alkaline corrosion impacting proper switch matrix operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Playfield Switch Matrix Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the switch matrix issue has been isolated to the playfield, follow the tips listed in the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#The_Switch_Matrix Switch Matrix Diagnosis] section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One additional item to note is that Gottlieb did not attach isolation diodes directly to switches. Instead, isolation diodes are collected on &amp;quot;diode boards&amp;quot; which are screwed to the playfield underside or the cabinet bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
The blue Futaba display glasses used by Gottlieb® System 1 and 80 machines are a fairly reliable, long-lasting display.  Although, they can and do still fail.  It&#039;s just a matter of diagnosing the symptoms of a failed display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Display problems can primarily be classified into the following categories:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Power problems&lt;br /&gt;
#Display glass failure&lt;br /&gt;
#Data problems&lt;br /&gt;
#Tired displays&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 displays.png‎|thumb|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A displays.png‎|thumb|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Power Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before even attempting to work on System 80/80A/80B displays, there are two caveats to heed.  First and foremost, the displays function due to the necessity of several voltages, including high voltage.  &#039;&#039;&#039;IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON HIGH VOLTAGE CIRCUITS, THEN DO NOT WORK ON THESE DISPLAYS!&#039;&#039;&#039;  High voltage can hurt or even kill you.  If you don&#039;t feel comfortable working around this type of scenario, then hire a professional to do the work.  Secondly, any time a display connector needs to be disconnected, &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT REMOVE ANY DISPLAY RELATED CONNECTOR WITH THE POWER ON!&#039;&#039;&#039;  This goes for the connectors located directly at the display, connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the CPU board, A2J3 on the power supply board, and A7J3 / A7P3 (early System 80 up to Mars God of War), A10J1 / A10P1 (when used), A12J4 / A12P4 (Black Hole and after), or A10J7 / A10P7 (when used) from the transformer.  Removing connectors with the power on can damage the display, the CPU board, and / or you.  Sorry to &amp;quot;yell&amp;quot;, but it is extremely important to stress the above two statements.  Now that this is out of the way, let&#039;s move on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As stated above, the displays need several sources of voltage to function properly. The display voltages used are broken down by the type of display: +60VDC and 5VAC with a positive 8VDC offset are used for the 6-digit displays; +42VDC, +5VDC logic (for the 7432 chip - Z1), and 3VAC with a positive 4VDC offset are used for the 4-digit status display. When using a 6 digit display with DI513 Dionics chips, +5VDC is necessary for RP1 and RP2, both 8.2K resistor networks. Likewise, 7 digit displays also have a 7432 chip on them, and +5VDC is needed for them too. If any of the above voltages are missing, the display will never light.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Prior to plugging in and turning the game on for the very first time, it is a good practice to check all of the fuse values located on the transformer board first. There is a 1/4 amp slo-blo fuse used for the display voltage, which is located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet.  With the game unplugged from the wall outlet, remove the fuse from its fuse holder.  When checking fuses, never &amp;quot;eyeball&amp;quot; a fuse.  Your eyes may tell you that the fuse is good, but your eyes can fool you.  Use a digital multi-meter (DMM) or a continuity tester to check fuses. Put each lead of DMM on opposite ends of the fuse.  A tone should be heard.  If not, the fuse is bad, and should be replaced with the same value.  Fuses are used to protect equipment, the surroundings, and you.  Installing fuse values with higher ratings is very dangerous. &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT USE A FUSE RATED AT A HIGHER RECOMMENDED VALUE!&#039;&#039;&#039;  If the existing fuse is blown, it may not necessarily mean there is a problem.  Fuses do get stressed, and sometimes just fail.  However, there is more than likely a problem somewhere in the display power train.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game still unplugged, the next course of action is to place connector A2J1 on the power supply.  A2P1 is the bottom connection on the power supply, and receives all voltages directly from the transformers and a single ground from the ground strip.  Once A2J1 is connected, remove any other connections from the power supply (A2J2 and A2J3).  All voltages should be tested before any boards or displays are connected to them.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_psu_A2J3_highli.JPG|left|thumb|200px|System 1 Power Supply with A2J3 highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At this point, plug the game in, and turn it on.  Using a DMM or volt meter, check all of the voltages at A2P3.  For the +60VDC (A2P3-1) and +42VDC (A2P3-3), any ground connection can be used as a reference. The +42VDC is derived from the +60VDC.  If there is +60VDC, but not +42VDC, The 18v CR6 zener diode or the R5 resistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the two high voltages test all right, it&#039;s time to check the offset voltages.  The offset voltages are +5VDC (A2P1-6) and +8VDC (A2P1-9).  Use any ground connection as a ground reference to test these voltages.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If displays are not lighting, but either the +42VDC is present on the display (status display) or the +60VDC is present on the 6 digit or 7 digit displays, check for the presence of AC voltage used to power the display filament.  Do not use ground as a reference when measuring these voltages, as they are AC.  Measurements must be taken from the send and return lines.  If the AC voltage is missing, check the in-line connection at A7J3 / A7P3 (early System 80 up to Mars God of War) or A12J4 / A12P4 (Black Hole and after).  Also, some games have more connectors which pass the AC voltages.  These additional connectors are A10J7 / A10P7 or A10J1 / A10P1. Check the voltages on the input and output of the connector to see if fatigued connectors are the source of the voltage loss.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all the display voltages are satisfactory, it is time to move onto the next step of visually inspecting the display boards for obvious defects.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====What is the DC Offset Voltage?=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ACSineWave.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Representation of AC voltage with and without a DC offset component. Note the red sine wave is shifted &amp;quot;up&amp;quot; by the DC component.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DCOffsetClip.jpg|right|thumb|200px|A snippet from a typical System 80 schematic showing &amp;quot;DC offset&amp;quot; voltages connected to the center tap of the transformer secondary where AC filament voltages originate.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Futaba displays as used in Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games require AC power that is &amp;quot;offset&amp;quot; by a specific DC voltage; 8VDC for the 6/7 digit displays, 5VDC for the 4-digit credit/match display. The DC component of the AC voltage raises the AC sine wave by that DC voltage. If the offset voltage is missing, inconsistent or wavy displays will result.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Glass Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Good display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with a good display glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NippleGuard.jpg|200px|thumb|right|A cheap and easy way to protect your nipples]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The simplest and easiest problem to identify is display glass failure.  All of the 6 digit displays used by Gottlieb® System 80, and 7 digit displays used by System 80A games will have a black &amp;quot;blotch&amp;quot;, for lack of a better term, in the upper left and lower right corner of the glass.  The 4-digit status display typically has only one black blotch.  The evidence of a black blotch or blotches is good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bad sys1 display1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with Broken Nipple on Back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
However, if there is a muted white blotch visible at the corners of the display, it means the display&#039;s &amp;quot;vacuum&amp;quot; has been compromised, either due to a cracked glass or broken nipple. If this is the case, the display glass can not be repaired and is useless.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A simple, cheap, and effective way to &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;protect the glass nipple&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; is to cut a ring of hose (garden hose was used in the picture at right), place it around the nipple, and then fill the ring with silicon caulk (preferred) or hot glue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Broken top filament1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with Broken Top Filament. Note that this is the Dionics chipset version of the display.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The display filaments within the glass can also break.  The end result will be segments with missing sections or &amp;quot;hot spots&amp;quot; when the display is powered.  The &amp;quot;hot spots&amp;quot; are caused by the &amp;quot;dangling&amp;quot;, broken filament shorting to other good filaments.  If a display filament breaks, do not use the display as shorted displays can damage other game components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Example Display with Failed Filament&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilamentOFFAnnotated.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Another example of a broken filament. This one has broken and shorted to another part of the display.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilamentScoreOverall.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The same display, showing a dark line across the center where the filament has failed.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilament.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Closeup of same display.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Even though the glass itself is bad, the chips on the display board may still be good.  So don&#039;t necessarily discount the display as being all bad.  UDN6118A and 7432, (chip used on status display only), chips are getting more costly, and Dionics DI513s are very scarce.  Since the display board is single sided, removal of the chips is quite easy.  Plus, the display PCBs are no longer being made.  The display board and / or chips may come in handy some time in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====UDN6118 and Other Display Logic Chip Failures====&lt;br /&gt;
The majority of 4 and 6 digit displays utilize two UDN6118 &amp;quot;Vacuum Fluorescent Display Drivers&amp;quot;. These ICs do not fail often. However, when they do fail shorted, they can affect the performance of the rest of the display set.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingUDN6118AndUDN7180.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Test method for a UDN6118 or UDN7180 display driver. Colored dots represent DMM probe locations (red lead, black lead)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
UDN6118 driver ICs can be tested using a DMM. Click on the image at left for the procedure.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;A Blown UDN6118 Display Driver&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:UDN6118BlownTopSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Damage is hard to photograph, but the outline of the overheated chip core can be seen.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:UDN6118BlownBottomSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A much more visible image of the heat damage.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Credit Display Segment Locked On=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb4DigitGlassSegmentCLockedOn.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A 4 digit display with segment &amp;quot;c&amp;quot; locked on, caused by a failed 7432 on the board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Gottlieb 4 digit displays use two UDN6118s and a single 7432. The 7432 can fail in such a way as to cause segments to lock on, as shown in the picture at left showing segment &amp;quot;c&amp;quot; locked on. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Data Problems==== &lt;br /&gt;
When there are display issues, one first has to determine whether there is a problem with the display itself, the connectors involved, or the chips on the CPU board that control it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;NOTE: Do not connect or disconnect the display connectors or connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the MPU (right hand side) with the power on! Doing so WILL damage the MPU board display logic ICs.&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following applies to System 80 and 80A displays.  For information regarding the System 80B display board, scroll down to the end of this section.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebDisplaySegmentDigitOutAnnotated.jpg|340px|thumb|left|An excellent image to show both digit and segment problems. Note the red circles showing the same digit out on for players 1 and 3. Also note the yellow circles showing segment &amp;quot;g&amp;quot; out for players 1 and 2.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Issue Isolated to a Single Display&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem is only showing up one display, suspect that the connector at the display itself is problematic, or there is an issue on the display board.  Problems on the display board can consist of a bad solder joint, a broken display lead from the display glass, or faults with the driver chips on the board (Sprague UDN6118 or Dionics DI513, if an old System 1 display is used).  The exception is if only 4 displays and a status display are used, which is common to most System 80/80A games.  In this display configuration, if there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;segment issue&#039;&#039;&#039; with the status display, there may be an issue with the segment drive chip on the CPU board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80LockedHSegment.jpg|340px|thumb|left|An example of a display showing segment &amp;quot;h&amp;quot; locked on. The segment was locked on for both the player 3 and player 4 displays. This was caused by a failure of the 7404 at Z16. This picture was snapped right after pressing the diagnostic button on the coin door. The display should be blank.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Issue With Multiple Displays&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem shows up on two or more displays, suspect one of the two connectors on the CPU board (A1J2 or A1J3), one of the two connectors on the two displays (they are daisy-chained with an IDC connector), or the chips which control the display data on the CPU board.  If there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;digit issue&#039;&#039;&#039;, the issue will be present on &#039;&#039;&#039;player 1 and 3&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;player 2 and 4&#039;&#039;&#039; displays.  If there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;segment issue&#039;&#039;&#039;, the issue will be present on &#039;&#039;&#039;player 1 and 2&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;player 3 and 4&#039;&#039;&#039; displays, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;status display&#039;&#039;&#039;.  If more than 4 scoring displays are used, on games such as Pink Panther, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, etc., consult the game manual for display digit and segment mapping.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 displays.png‎|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A displays.png‎|550px|right|Gottlieb® System 80A Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The charts listed below, map out each signal to each specific display.  The first chart maps the display digit information, while the second and third charts map the display segment information.  This information only applies to games where 4 scoring displays and 1 status display are used, although digit group names have been added, if more displays are used.  All of the charts apply to System 80 and 80A, but not 80B.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Digit Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Digit Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Display(s)&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D16 (80A only) || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group F) || A1J3-16 || Z26-8 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D1 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-1 || Z17-4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D2 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-2 || Z17-6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D3 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-3 || Z17-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D4 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-4 || Z17-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D5 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-5 || Z17-8 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D6 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-6 || Z24-2 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D13 (80A only) || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group F) || A1J3-13 || Z26-4 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D7 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-7 || Z24-4 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D8 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-8 || Z24-6  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D9 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-9 || Z24-12 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D10 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-10 || Z24-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D11 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-11 || Z24-8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D12 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-12|| Z26-2 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D13 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-13 || Z26-4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D14 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-14 || Z26-6 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D15 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-15 || Z26-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D16 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-16 || Z26-8  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group A Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group A || A1J2-1 || Z19-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group A || A1J2-2 || Z19-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group A || A1J2-3 || Z19-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group A || A1J2-4 || Z19-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group A || A1J2-5 || Z19-9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group A || A1J2-6 || Z19-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group A || A1J2-7 || Z19-14&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group A || A1J2-8 || Z16-12 &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group B Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group B || A1J2-9 || Z21-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group B || A1J2-10 || Z21-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group B || A1J2-11 || Z21-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group B || A1J2-12 || Z21-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group B || A1J2-13 || Z21-9 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group B || A1J2-14 || Z21-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group B || A1J2-15 || Z21-14 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group B || A1J2-16 || Z16-10  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group C Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group C || A1J2-17 || Z23-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group C || A1J2-18 || Z23-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group C || A1J2-19 || Z23-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group C || A1J2-20 || Z23-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group C || A1J2-21 || Z23-9 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group C || A1J2-22 || Z23-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group C || A1J2-23 || Z23-14 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group C || A1J2-24 || Z17-2  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Display Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayDivotAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A System 80B Display edge connector. One data conductor to the display was not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; across the connection due to a corrosion &amp;quot;divot&amp;quot;. This caused the entire display to remain blank. Reflowing the edge connector solder corrected the issue. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebEdgeConnectorDivots.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Another System 80B Display edge connector, this one with corrosion marks on it. The corrosion also caused the entire display to remain blank. Reflowing the edge connector solder corrected the issue. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80Bs displays are completely different how the digits and segments are decoded and driven.  Unlike System 80 and 80A, where the decoder chips are located on the CPU board, the System 80B display has a single segment (U3) and two digit decoder chips (U1 &amp;amp; U2) located on the display board itself.  Unfortunately, both of these chips (10941 &amp;amp; 10939 respectively) were a product of Rockwell International, and are not that prevalent.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has been observed that if any of the display data signals are missing between the CPU board and the 7417 inverters on the display board, the two displays will not illuminate at all.  If voltages on the display board are within spec, it may be advantageous to check all of the data signal edge connector pins on the CPU board and the display board. If both the edge connector and the female connectors look good, use a logic probe to ensure signals are getting to the input side of both 7417 (or later 74LS367) inverters on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that the System 80B jumpers, that replace the 7448s at Z19 and Z21 on System 80 and 80A boards, can be a source of discontinuity due to cracked solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has been observed that some of the earlier System 80B games are more prone to the display randomly being blank upon turning on the machine. Rock and Raven are the most common with this issue, however, the first three 80Bs, Chicago Cubs, Tag Team, and Bounty Hunter, are susceptible too. The best recourse is to repin both A1-J2 and A4-J1 / 1A4-J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rejuvenating Tired Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System1-80DisplayBrightUp.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Rejuvenating tired System 1/80 displays]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 displays, especially those that haven&#039;t been turned on for a long time, sometimes fade. These displays can be rejuvenated by applying voltage to the outside pins of the display glass. Note that voltage should be applied to the display glass pins, NOT the card edge pins. This process &amp;quot;burns&amp;quot; the impurities that accumulate on the filaments off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture at left, general illumination power (7VAC) from the lamp insert panel is being used to rejuvenate a display.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. Turn the game off&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. Remove the connector from the display&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. Connect jumper clips from a voltage source to each of the outside pins of the display glass. Note that the lower the voltage applied, the longer the display can tolerate this &amp;quot;rejuvenation&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is why some techs choose to use the lower GI AC voltage for this purpose.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. Power the game on for 1 minute.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Disconnect the jumper wires and reconnect the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. Power on to test the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7. If the display still isn&#039;t bright enough, repeat this process for 1 minute each time, until the display is satisfactorily bright.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that if the display filaments, which run across the display horizontally begin to glow orange (or worse, white), too much voltage is being applied or the display has been connected too long. This risks burning one or more of the display filaments out and ruining the display. A cautious, 1 minute at a time, process is warranted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note also that one particular System 80 tech (&amp;quot;System 80, not just a job, it&#039;s an adventure&amp;quot;) suggests that merely leaving the game powered on for 24 hours will accomplish the same rejuvenation.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Does Not Light====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:gottlieb-display-broken-legs.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Broken legs on display glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
If the glass of a 6 or 7-digit display does not light, but there are no white spots in the corners (white spots indicate bad glass), the outer-most legs on the glass may be broken. A magnifying glass may be necessary to inspect the pins since the gap in the breaks may be extremely small. The outer-most legs are responsible for supplying power to the glass, which is why the glass would not light in this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These legs may be broken especially on displays that have a green or blue plastic filter covering them. These legs can get broken after someone presses down on the plastic cover of the display when pushing the display onto the PCB supports mounted on the light board in the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To repair, line up the two broken halves of the leg with needle-nose pliers, heat, and solder. If the solder isn&#039;t sticking, lightly sand back some of the black tarnish with fine sandpaper or a fiberglass eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 Display Test 19 Never Starts====&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games provide a display test (number 19). The test &amp;quot;walks&amp;quot; all digits, from 0 to 9, through all displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A failed 6532 RIOT at U5 can cause the game to appear dead, as if awaiting an input. The display test will never commence.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Individual 6-digit Display Interferes With Other Displays==== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, a particular display can interfere with the operation of other 6-digit/4-digit displays no matter which game or player position it is plugged into. These symptoms can include:&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing digits to go missing on other displays&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing certain digits to dim significantly on other displays&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing certain digits to display garbage or non-numbers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of these symptoms is a bad R1 resistor. When powered off, the resistor will give the correct reading. However, the resistor may fail when power is applied. The R1 resistor (10k ohm, 1/2 Watt, 5% resistor) may need to be replaced if the above symptoms are present.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Individual 7-digit Display Causes Other Displays To Go Blank====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, a particular display can interfere with the operation of the other 7-digit/4-digit displays no matter which game or player position it is plugged into. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a particular display causes all other displays to go blank, the likely cause is a failure of the Z2 6118P chip, which drives the digits of the display. This chip can be replaced with the more commonly found UDN6118A chip. Also keep in mind that it&#039;s possible the 7448 and the other 6118P controlling the segments could be damaged as well, so be prepared for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===All Other Display Issues (Not Caused by Displays)===&lt;br /&gt;
There are several issues which appear to be display related, however, they ultimately are not.  In these instances, the displays are used instead as a visual identifier of a particular issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Open Slam Switch==== &lt;br /&gt;
If after turning a System 80 game on, and the scoring displays turn on immediately without a 5 second delay, there is a problem.  However, if the displays are showing all of the outer segments (all segments necessary to display a zero) lit, and &amp;quot;strobing&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;rolling&amp;quot; rapidly as simulated in the image below, this isn&#039;t a display problem. The cause of this problem is an open slam switch on the coin door. To address this issue, see the PinWiki section [[#Slam_Switch_Modification | Slam Switch Modification]].&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb 6digit slam scaled.gif|500px|thumb|left|Simulation of displays indicating an open slam switch. Note the &amp;quot;rolling&amp;quot; perimeter display segments.]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====All Displays Dim or at Half Brightness====&lt;br /&gt;
This applies to System 80/80A games with 6 or 7 digit displays. If all the displays appear dim or at about half brightness, check the 60v test point on the power supply. If it reads about 30-35v, then the dim display issue is caused by the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the power supply, Q2 regulates the 60v, so if that component has failed, or if there is a problem with the solder joints or pads on the back of the board, this can result in half the voltage for the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Carefully inspect the back of the power supply for cracked solder joints or through-hole pads that have popped off the PCB. Because Q2 has a large/heavy heat sink, the component tends to move around lot, which may cause these issues. If nothing is apparent with a visual inspection, test for continuity between Q2&#039;s legs and the traces on the PCB .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:gottlieb-sys80-psu-q2-pad-problem.jpg|thumb|250px|left|The pad for the center leg of Q2 has separated from the PCB and will need to be repaired]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Before doing any kind of work, or blaming the sound board for not putting out sound, review the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting section] first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In particular for System 80 games, ensure that the dip switches that enable sound are set correctly. And, ensure that the dip switch actually works. Games like Spiderman use one of the 32 MPU dip switches to enable background and scoring sounds. Games like Haunted House, Black Hole, etc use dipswitch 5 on the Sound and Speech board to enable background sound.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The Long and Winding Road of the Sound Signals====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound signals follow very roundabout path before reaching their destination on the sound board.  Sounds S1, S2, S4, and S8 are originated on the MPU board by RIOT U6.  These 4 sound signals then pass through a 7404 inverter (Z27), pass through a 7408 2 input AND (Z31), and exit the MPU board via the A1J4 connection (MPU / driver board interconnect harness).  The signals enter the driver board via A3J1, pass through another 7404 inverter (Z13), and exit the driver board via A3J5.  Finally, they enter the sound board via the only connection on the sound board, A6J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If any of the sound signals are lost, this potentially happens due to poor edge connections, however, 7404s are known to fail too.  The best way to check for discontinuity is to use a DMM or ohmmeter to check the path from the exiting chip to the chip it enters on the following board.  Another method for checking for signal loss is a logic probe.  This method is not as simple though, because some generations of System 80s do not have a sound test.  Therefore, waiting for a particular signal to trigger can be tricky.  The benefit of using a logic probe is to determine if a particular signal is entering and exiting a specific chip, and if the signal transforms (if it is supposed to) like intended (ie. the 7404 will invert the signal from high to low or low to high).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some sound boards use a fifth sound signal, known as S16.  S16 is actually driven by an MPS-A13 like any other single lamp drive. S16 can follow a very convoluted path too, depending on the particular game.  For example, Haunted House uses S16.  It originates on the MPU with all of the other lamp signals, and becomes lamp drive Q10 on the driver board.  It exits the driver board via A3J2, passes through a inline connector, A10J4, passes through another inline connector, A12P4, and finally reaches the sound board at A6J1.  That is a lot of mileage for just 1 little sound signal!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games, starting with Rock, which use the dual 6502 processor sound boards, use Q5 as sound signal S16.  Please be aware that the System 80B documentation does not always notate this information regarding S16!!!  In this case, S16 follows a much simpler path.  It exits the driver board via A3J2 and goes directly to the sound board at A6J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, if appears that certain sound signals are missing or the wrong sounds are triggered, suspect a bad connection first.  Then, suspect a bad 7404 within the sound signal path.  Then, check all other potential problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that the 7404 U7 located on early System 80 sound boards (sound only) do fail also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 Sounds Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound Board (Sounds only)]]&lt;br /&gt;
This board, first used in Panthera, is problematic to fix. The main issue is that the board uses the long since obsolete 6503 processor (think of it as a short 6502) and a &amp;quot;masked ROM/RIOT&amp;quot; 6530. The 6530 was specifically programmed for Gottlieb sound boards. They are therefore, impossible to replace unless you can scavenge a working one from another sound board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only replacement option at this time, other than sourcing a used board, is Pascal Janin&#039;s reproduction board. This board is a bit pricey but is engineered quite well. The board can be found here: [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php?lg=en http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php?lg=en].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GottliebSoundsOnlyBoardCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A leaky audio filter cap caused significant corrosion to several traces on this board.]][[Image:System80SoundsOnlyLeakyCap.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Audio filter cap removed, corrosion removed, traces tinned. The leaky cap can be seen in the top of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;This board operates on three different voltages: +5v, +12v, and -12v. The +5 volts comes in on J1 pin 5 from the machine&#039;s power supply board. The +12 volts comes in on J1 pin 1 from the machine&#039;s bottom panel. The -12 volts is generated on the sounds only board and it receives AC power input on J1 pins 3 and 4. You can measure the -12 volts by connecting your volt meter across zener diode CR5 (1N4742A).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The test button on this era sound board will only work if the two dipswitches are set in opposite positions on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted above, this board is tough to repair. If the 6530 is dead...you&#039;re SOL. A dead 6503 might be replaced. The other ICs on the board, like the LM380 amp and the 555 timer are still readily available. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A common issue with the board seems to be the leaky large capacitor on the board. Fortunately, this is easy to repair. Remove the old cap. Abate the corrosion as shown in the picture at right. Replace the cap. When this cap leaks, it can completely sever the sound signal path. Sounds might sound scratchy or incomplete too. The cap is easy to remove and replace. It&#039;s worth a shot.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Sound and Speech Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Different Revisions of the Sound and Speech Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=220px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Revisions of the Gottlieb Sound and Speech board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS Back B20887-1.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS Back B20887-2.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Front Added Resistors.JPG|thumb|left|200px|B-20887-3 Sound and Speech Board with Resistors Highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the third revision sound and speech board, the resistors which were added to the solder side of the -1 and -2 boards were now incorporated in the board design. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound and Speech Board Operation=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board represents the high point in the System 80 family as far as sound generation is concerned. By combining sound and voice circuitry, the board is flexible enough to be used in several different games, with different voice calls, all generated via the Votrax SC-01 speech synthesizer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board is itself a single board computer, and should be debugged similar to any non-working MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board interfaces with the System 80 MPU via a 6 bit (S1, S2, ..., S32) wide &amp;quot;data bus&amp;quot;. The 6 interface bits form a binary code which define specific sounds (or speech) to play. This enables 63 separate sounds to be played. Each communication between the MPU and the Sound and Speech board is &amp;quot;stand alone&amp;quot;. That is, the system does not make use of successive sound commands to mean different things as the Bally Squawk and Talk implementation does. In practice, since S32 is never used, a maximum of 31 unique sounds are commanded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Four of the bits in the interface are controlled (grounded) by circuitry on the MPU (starting at the U6 RIOT) and a &amp;quot;pass through&amp;quot; 7404 inverter on the driver board (Z13). The remaining two bits are implemented via &amp;quot;lamp drive&amp;quot; transistors (Q10 for S16) on the driver board, and comparator circuitry on the S&amp;amp;S board (U24).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are fielded by the S&amp;amp;S board&#039;s 6532 RIOT which generates an interrupt to the 6502 processor. The 6502 reads the sound number commanded from the 6532 as it services the interrupt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The S&amp;amp;S board&#039;s 6502&#039;s program code, as well as sound data, is stored in two 2716 EPROMs, PROM 1 and PROM 2.  These EPROMs are typically labeled at the factory with the model number of the game they are for, and the suffixes /S1 &amp;amp; /S2. For example &amp;quot;668/S1&amp;quot; is the label on one of the Black Hole sound ROMs. Although the board can be strapped for two 2732 EPROMs, in practice, this was never done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board can field and queue sound commands at the same time as it is driving the sound and speech circuitry lanes. The board will never interrupt or prematurely terminate a sound being played. The board will also never reorganize the queue of sounds to be played. Each sound to be played will be played until it&#039;s conclusion. The 6502 knows when &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; have completed playing since it is solely in control of the sound lane. The 6502 knows when &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; calls have completed processing by the SC-01 via a non-maskable interrupt sent via the SC-01&#039;s ~A/R signal to the 6502&#039;s NMI pin. Timing to sequence speech phonemes together rapidly is critical, hence the use of the non-maskable interrupt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6502 creates &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; via one circuitry lane. It creates &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; through a second, separate circuitry lane. At the end of each lane, just prior to input to the main LM379S amplifier, sound and speech is summed. The relative volume of each lane can be tuned via 10K trim pots at the top of the board, R15 and R16.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound Lane&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Simple sounds (not voice) are created by the 6502 reading data from the sound ROMs and latching it into two 74LS75 data latches. The 74LS75s latch the data when selected via a 74LS02 (NOR gate) at U10 which NORs the R/W signal along with a device select signal from the 74LS138 at U4. the device select signal selects U7 and U8 simultaneously to latch data bus signals DB0 - DB7 all at once.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two 74LS75s provide the data to a 1408 D-to-A (digital to analog) converter at U20. In this way, 511 different digital codes can be converted to analog levels by the 1408. The analog output of the 1408 can be attenuated via a 10K &amp;quot;variable resistor&amp;quot; at R13. The signal is then amplified and inverted by an LM741 analog inverter (U22). The analog signal is then fed to the LM379S for final amplification. Note that the 1408 DAC is obsolete, but may be replaced by the more available DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Speech Lane&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Speech is ultimately created by the Votrax SC-01 voice chip. The SC-01 accepts &amp;quot;phoneme&amp;quot; codes and renders the analog speech output to the LM379S for final amplification. The phoneme codes are placed on the 6502 data bus and pass through a 74LS05 &amp;quot;level shifter&amp;quot; and inverter at U13. The codes are accepted by the SC-01 on pins 9 through 14 when pin 7 is strobed (the phoneme code is latched on the rising edge of the strobe). The &amp;quot;pitch&amp;quot; of the SC-01 voice is controlled by I1/I2 (pins 3 and 2). Frequency and timing control is achieved via MCK and MCR (pins 15 and 16, which are tied together). Frequency and timing are controlled via nearly identical circuitry as is used in the &amp;quot;sound&amp;quot; lane. Frequency and timing are referred to in the schematics as the &amp;quot;Voice Clock&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Reset signal&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset circuit is pretty simple. A 47uf/50V cap at C3 charges when power is applied. Once charged, the originating 5VDC power is twice inverted and cleaned up via a Schmitt Trigger at U1, and finally presented to the ~RESET signal (pin 40) of the 6502.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test button&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The test button, located on the upper left side of the S&amp;amp;S board, grounds pin 17 of the 6532 RIOT. After reading the RIOT data, the 6502 process then plays the appropriate test sound, which varies by game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SC-01 pinout&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin Number(s)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal Name&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal Purpose&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;1 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Vdd&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Input Voltage&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;2-3 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;I1, I2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Instantaneous pitch adjustment. Will change pitch of phoneme being spoken.&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;7 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;S&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Strobe to indicate a phoneme code is ready&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;8 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;~A/R&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Acknowledge receipt of phoneme strobe, indicate completion of phoneme processing&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;9-14 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;P5-P0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Phoneme number select (from fixed phoneme table)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;15-16 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;MCK/MCR&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;External Clock Signal (probably used to alter phoneme pronunciation via varying the clock)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;20-22 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;CB, AF, AO&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Audio Output&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;18 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Ground&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sounds and Speech board DIP switch settings=====&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound and Speech board has a bank of DIP switches. For at least Black Hole, the function of these switches is as follows:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-1 - Used in self-test only&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-2 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-3/4 - Attract mode speech frequency&lt;br /&gt;
** OFF/OFF - disabled&lt;br /&gt;
** ON/OFF - attract mode speech every 10 seconds&lt;br /&gt;
** OFF/ON - attract mode speech every 2 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
** ON/ON - attract mode speech every 4 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-5 - ON = background sound enabled, OFF = background sound disabled&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-6 - ON = all speech enabled, OFF = all speech disabled&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-7 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-8 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound &amp;quot;Locks Up&amp;quot; after certain switch closures=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SC-01.jpg|thumb|200px|left|The long since obsolete, pricey, and hard to find SC-01 speech chip. This one is an SC-01-A, said to be a little beefier.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This problem may be caused by a malfunctioning or missing SC-01 (or SC-01-A) speech chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Games such as Black Hole, Mars God of War, and Volcano utilized the SC-01 phoneme speech chip. These games &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;require&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; a working SC-01 to be present, not only for the speech portions of the sound, but for the sound to not &amp;quot;lock up&amp;quot; after the first time that a speech call is made. The CPU relies on an interrupt from the 6532 RIOT to restart sound command processing. That interrupt originates from an &amp;quot;all done&amp;quot; signal from the SC-01 speech chip (shown as ~A/R in the schematics, SC-01 pin 8). If the RIOT never receives an &amp;quot;all done&amp;quot; signal (at PB7) then it will not interrupt the processor and no further speech or sound will be created.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is also possible that the 2N2222 at Q3 has failed, not allowing the interrupt signal to reach the RIOT. Q3 inverts the ~A/R signal and conveys it to the RIOT as A/~R and also to the MPU as a non-maskable interrupt (U3 6502, pin 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Game background sound continues after game over=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This has been noticed in &amp;quot;Mars, God of War&amp;quot; predominately, but other System 80 games that use the Speech and Sound board may exhibit similar symptoms.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of the problem is MPU DIP switch 25. The switch MUST be ON, as noted in the manual. Even if the switch appears to be &amp;quot;on&amp;quot;, buzz across the switch solder pads on the back side of the board to ensure that the switch has not failed. Gottlieb sometimes used &amp;quot;rocker&amp;quot; switches, which seem to have a high failure rate.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An &amp;quot;On Target&amp;quot; newsletter from June, 1981 discusses something similar to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound is &amp;quot;garbled&amp;quot; or phonemes appear jumbled=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;!--&lt;br /&gt;
While this problem is uncommon, it&#039;s quite maddening to track down. However, since the board architecture is split between a &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; lane and a &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; lane, at least the number of suspect components can be narrowed. In at least one instance, &amp;quot;garbled&amp;quot; sound was caused by a failed 74LS75 latch. Just after the game was turned on, sounds were normal. But, as components on the speech and sound board would &amp;quot;heat up&amp;quot;, speech became garbled, progressively becoming worse, until the speech was completely unintelligible, and then completely missing. The 74LS75 latches may be replaced by 7475s. --&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using the MA-483 Sound Amp Board on a Sound and Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback.JPG|130px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® MA-483 Piggyback Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS Power Mod.JPG||260px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® Sound and Speech Power Supply with components highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If using the MA-483 sound amp board on a Sound and Speech board, or if the sounds only System 80A sound board is going to be used, the factory Sound and Speech power supply cannot be used without modification.  The reason is because the original LM379S amp is powered by 30vdc, and the TDA2002 amp on the MA-483 only needs 16vdc.  If the TDA2002 was powered by 30vdc, it would be destroyed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The modification is quite simple, and is done by replacing only two components (R1 and CR1). R1 is 430 ohm 1/2 watt and CR1 is 1N4751A 30v 1 watt zener diode.  R1 should be replaced with a 1.5Kohm 1/2 watt resistor and CR1 should be replaced with 1N4746A 18V 1 watt zener diode.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing the Obsolete LM379S Amplifier with a Modern Amplifier=====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;This information originally published by J. &amp;quot;kirb&amp;quot; Kirby. Additional pictures and some editing provided by Chris Hibler. Used with permission.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Gottlieb System 80 Audio Amp Replacment...why?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80&amp;amp;a s&amp;amp;s.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board as used on Mars, God of War, Black Hole, Haunted House, Volcano, and some video games]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb® Sound and Speech board uses an LM379 or LM379s audio amp in the final amplification section. This amp became hard to find around 1983. Gottlieb® provided an alternative for this amp (see prior section) and discontinued using the Speech and Sound board further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Their solution was to buy a piggyback board from Gottlieb® that used an LM2002 or a TDA2002 amp. But the LM2002 or TDA2002 amps require 16VDC to operate (instead of the 30VDC used by the LM379). This necessitated a change to the sound board power supply. There were many components to replace or remove, not to mention that you would have to make the piggyback board yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SOLUTION? Find a newer amp that required fewer components. A replacment amp can be put together using only the following parts which can be easily sourced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*LM1875T Audio Amp&lt;br /&gt;
*14 pin DIP socket&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat sink&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat sink compound&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you&#039;ve sourced these parts, a replacement amp is easy to construct and only requires removal of the old LM379 amp and addition of one jumper (to provide 12VDC, covered later).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let&#039;s start with the basics. System 80 games used 4 different sound boards. This amp replacement applies only to the Sound and Speech board used in Mars: God of War, Black Hole (domestic version), Haunted House, Volcano, Devil&#039;s Dare, Caveman, Rocky, Q*bert&#039;s Quest, Super Orbit, Royal Flush Deluxe (early production), Amazon Hunt (early production), and video games like Q*bert.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;LM379 Audio Amp Testing&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;	&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First of all, is your amp really bad? Basic tests to identify a failed amp...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With the game on, turn the volume pot up as high as it will go. Do you hear a hum? This is normal and is an indicator that your amp is working.&lt;br /&gt;
*Check the voltages at the sound board. 30VDC is required to power the amp. Verify that this is working correctly or your amp won&#039;t work at all.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure the speakers are connected and working right. You can test speakers using a &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; size battery. Briefly connect the battery across the speaker and you should see the speaker&#039;s cone push out. Do this for only a second or two...speakers don&#039;t like DC voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure the volume adjustment pot is connected correctly and working properly. A dirty pot will make sounds junky, but they usually don&#039;t completely fail. You can &amp;quot;twizzle&amp;quot; the pot to remove oxidation that may have formed on the internal conductors.&lt;br /&gt;
*Headphones can be used to see if the sounds are getting to the amp. Connect one of the headphone conductors (the one closest to the headphone &amp;quot;handle&amp;quot;) to ground. Connect one of the other two headphone conductors (assuming stereo headphones) to the center leg of R15 or R16. You should be able to hear sounds that the board is making through the headphones. Your amp is probably bad if you can hear sounds at R15 or R16, but not through the speakers, assuming you&#039;ve tested the speaker to be good and you have 30VDC power at the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;LM379 Audio Amp Replacement Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mark the &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; of the heat sink so you can later determine orientation of the original amp should this be necessary. Pin 1 of the amp can&#039;t be identifed without removing the two screws that secure the finned heat sink to the chips integrated heat sink. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove the LM379 amp and heat sink assembly from the board. Desolder all 14 pins and pull the amp off the board. The LM379 heat sink may be soldered to the board so you&#039;ll need to remove that solder too. Be forewarned, the solder pads are delicate and easily damaged. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note how the LM379 is upside-down in relation to other chips on the board.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; This will be important later.&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Building the New Amp Assembly&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the new amp to the 14 pin DIP. Use the diagram below as a guide. The pinouts are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Amp Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Socket Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Purpose&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 1 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 9 || &amp;amp;nbsp;+ amp input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 2 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 8 || &amp;amp;nbsp;- amp input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 3 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 4 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 4 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 10 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Audio out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 5 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 1 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Vcc (+30VDC)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It will take some fancy bending to connect all of the amp legs in a way that they do not touch one another, but it can be done. It is important that the amp stands straight up and that the pins don&#039;t touch each other. See the diagram below for  better info. Don&#039;t worry about the 12VDC connection right now. We&#039;ll connect that later.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM379ReplacementNewAmpPinout.jpg‎|600px|center|Pinout schematic to attach the LM1875 amp to a 14 pin DIP socket]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;One Tech&#039;s Implementation (Heat Sink Added Later)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpFrontSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpRearSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Rear side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Attaching the heat sink&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, yes, you need a heat sink. Audio amps run hot. Without a heat sink, the amps life will be dramatically shortened.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mount the heat sink to the amp/socket assembly. You may have to modify your heat sink so that it doesn&#039;t contact anything but the LM1875 amp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Heat sink compound should be spread on any metal to metal surface that is to conduct heat. This will improve the heat sink&#039;s efficiency and is a must on this device to work right. Without the compound, the amp will overheat and shutdown. It may even be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=270px heights=270px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Kirb&#039;s original completed assembly&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpSideViewKirb.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Side view.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpFrontSideKirb.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front view.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Final Steps&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CompleteAssemblyInSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The completed assembly, mounted to the Sound and Speech Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the new amp assembly directly to the board. Normally you would use a socket, but that will  lead to audio problems. It is better just to solder it into the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ACHTUNG! Remember that pin 1 of the amp solder pads on the board is upside-down relative to every other IC on the board, and you need to install your new amp assembly with pin 1 &amp;quot;down&amp;quot;. Make sure this is done right. There is a 1 screened to the back of the board that should help you orient the assembly. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM379Replacement12VDCSource.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Connecting 12VDC to the amp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Now that the pins are soldered to the board, we have to connect 12VDC to pin 14 of the socket. This is easily found at the positive (+) side of C39. This 12VDC biases the +IN so that it won&#039;t saturate. Your amp will only work for about 30 seconds without this 12VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check all of your work one more time, then test the amp and see what you get. If you&#039;ve followed these steps correctly, your sound should be loud and clear!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Mapping =====&lt;br /&gt;
The interface between the driver board/MPU and the sound board is a simple bit map. An example bit map can be found on the [http://www.pinwiki.com//wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole Black Hole] specific page. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A Sound Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Cutting Out / No Sound=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback Back.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Piggyback Amplifier Board w/ Cracked Header Pins]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® had a tendency of using single-sided boards for their &amp;quot;piggy back&amp;quot; / daughter boards, and these boards are susceptible to cracked header pin solder joints.  The MA-483 amplifier board is no different.  If the sound appears to be cutting out or their are no sounds at all, the header joints on the MA-483 may have developed cracks.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before suspecting the daughter board header joints, review the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting] section located in the &amp;quot;General for all games&amp;quot; section. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A / 80B Sound with Piggyback Board====&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80A / 80B sound board is nearly the same as the first generation System 80 sound only sound board.  It utilizes a 2716 EPROM versus a masked ROM like the System 80 sound board.  This was potentially due to the Harris 7643 masked ROM being obsolete.  The 80A / 80B board does not use a test button.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the System 80 sounds only board, this board has 2 obsolete chips on it, the CPU (6503) and the RRIOT (6530).  On the plus side, these boards did not get destroyed nearly as much as the original System 80 sounds only boards (plugging the System 80 sounds only board into a System 1 game would destroy it in a very short time).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-766)====&lt;br /&gt;
This sound board has two independent 6502 CPUs.  One exclusively drives a DAC (digital-to-analog converter).  The other drives the speech chip, Orator, (not used for speech on this generation of sound board, but it is used to generate sounds), and two AY-3-8913 sound chips.  Each is pretty much independent, sharing essentially only the sound select lines, the reset signal, and the output section. The gates of one TTL chip are used by both 6502s to communicate between the subsystems via the NMI signal to each 6502 among other functions. The ROMs, CPUs, and accessory chips, are all localized to the particular subsystem other than the inter-processor communication just mentioned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the LED and test switch are only relevant for the CPU that operates the speech and synthesizer chips, not the chip connected directly to the DAC. With this in mind, it should be possible to troubleshoot this board using a divide-and-conquer approach.  For instance, if the LED isn&#039;t blinking in/off at about a 50% duty cycle, then the subsystem for the 6502 that controls the LED has to have a fault, but the other subsystem may be fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since this sound board is really just a more complex MPU board, or single board computer, the usual diagnostic steps are in order.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the ROM images are valid.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the reset signal begins low and then transitions to high after about 1/2 second.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the external clock signal is present at pin 37 of both 6502 processors.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the data lines on the 6502 (pins 33 through 26) are pulsing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the address lines on the 6502 (pins 9 through 20, 22 through 25) are pulsing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the external clocks are pulsing at pins 3 and 39 of the 6502 processors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-886)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA-886.jpg|200px|right|thumb|A repaired MA-886 sound board. Resistors R15, R16, R14, and R13 (top to bottom) are shown with blue Sharpie marks on their left ends, the end to probe when testing the sound channel. The other two components in the rectangle are high frequency ceramic filter capacitors which rarely fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 is generally the same board as the MA-766 sound board.  The main differences are that the MA-886 uses .156&amp;quot; header pins instead of edge connections, the Orator chip was no longer used, and SW1 was abandoned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Troubleshooting this board is nearly identical to the steps noted above for the MA-766 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One useful aspect of the board is that 4 channels of sound are summed by the LM324 at B1 before final amplification offboard. &lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 1 is the output from the 7528 DAC at E2. An example of the sounds that this channel makes is the &amp;quot;Destroy Alpha One&amp;quot; and other voices used in Robowar. This channel also contributes the &amp;quot;skittering&amp;quot; sound when the ball pass the rollunder on the ramp wireform and the &amp;quot;energy pulse&amp;quot; sound when the ball rolls over any of the top 4 lane rollovers. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R16&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 2 is the output from the AY-3-8913 (if present) at H4. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R14&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 3 is the output from the AY-3-8913 (if present) at K4. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R13&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 4 is the output from the MF-4 at E5. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R15&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Placing an oscilloscope probe on the end of these resistors attached to the sound generating circuitry for that channel should show a purposeful signal (versus noise). If not, it&#039;s a good bet that one of the devices in that sound channel has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Several games (Bone Busters, Hoops, Bell Ringer, Silver Slugger, Car Hop, Deadly Weapon, Title Fight, and Vegas to name a few) use the MA-866 sound board paired with the MA-1294 auxiliary sound board. The two boards are connected via a special ribbon cable with dip &amp;quot;pins&amp;quot; on each end. WARNING: remove these connectors ONLY by sliding a flat blade screwdriver under it. Trying to &amp;quot;pull&amp;quot; the connector off with fingers on each side WILL cause the connector to be damaged. This sound board pair makes a two tone sound at power on. The two tones are different notes, like &amp;quot;LA-TI&amp;quot;. The first tone originates from the YM2151 on the MA-1294 auxiliary sound board. The second tone originates from the 7528 DAC. If either tone is missing, or unclear, suspect the associated sound lane.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-886) Jumpers J7 and J8====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA886JumperComparison.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The left board is from Silver Slugger (a System 3 game) which has both J7 and J8 installed. The right board is from Night Moves which has only J7 installed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA886SchematicSnippet.jpg|200px|right|thumb|A snippet of the schematic for the two boards showing that without J8 installed, the sound board will not be &amp;quot;interrupted&amp;quot; to indicate a new sound command is to be processed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 sound board was used in both System 80B and System 3 games. Two jumpers allow the board to be configured to accept the signal at connector P1, pin 9, as input. J8 IN enables this. J8 OUT defeats this. It&#039;s important to ensure these jumpers are installed appropriately for a particular game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Flippers.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical System 80 Flippers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80 flipper assemblies are very well engineered, and very little goes wrong with them.  Due to this, they are considered to be the &amp;quot;Sherman Tanks&amp;quot; of flippers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B games other than Bone Busters utilize the traditional &amp;quot;fat&amp;quot; flipper bat design (similar to Bally, Chicago Coin, and Stern), which is a carry over from the last flipper design of Gottlieb® System 1 games. The 3&amp;quot; plastic flipper bat is technically called a &amp;quot;flipper island&amp;quot; (Gottlieb® part number A-13150), and uses a 3/8&amp;quot; wide rubber ring versus the more common 1/2&amp;quot; wide rubber all other manufacturers use.  Another anomaly regarding Gottlieb® flippers from this era is that they are the only flipper design that uses an upper and lower flipper bushing system.  Neither bushing protrudes through the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
System 80/80A/80B flippers (other than Bone Busters) use an A-17875 (standard), A-24161 (stronger), or A-20095 (strongest) dual wound flipper coil.  The general design is a coil with two windings, the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; (low resistance) and &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; (high resistance) windings, just like most other flipper coil designs. However, only a single diode is used with this serial winding design versus others which employ a dual diode, parallel winding design.  Here&#039;s how it all works.  When initially engaged via the flipper cabinet button switches, both the power stroke and hold windings receive power, however, the hold winding is bypassed or shorted by the end of stroke (EOS) switch (electricity follows the path of least resistance).  As the flipper actuates and opens the EOS switch, the power is then transferred to both the power and hold windings (the resistance sum of the two windings), creating a very high resistance.  The high resistance allows the coil to remain turned on without creating stress on the low resistance power winding.  Hence, the coil can stay turned on indefinitely in theory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B flipper systems do not use a flipper relay per se.  Flipper power flows through switch pairs on Q &amp;amp; T relays located under the playfield, along with other non-computer controlled coils like slingshots.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For problems and resolutions for the flippers used in Bone Busters, please see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3#Flipper_Problems Flipper Problems] section in the Gottlieb System 3 repair guide. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers Won&#039;t Work at All====&lt;br /&gt;
Like any flipper issue, it has be determined whether the problem is electrical or mechanical in nature.  Start with obvious first.  Look for broken wires at the flipper coil, EOS switch, and cabinet switch first.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During visual inspection, make certain that the flipper EOS switch is closed (use an ohmmeter to determine this), and the switch pairs on the tilt and game over relays are properly gapped and closed.  Equally, inspect the switch pairs to see if any of the switch blades are broken or missing their contacts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since high current passes through all of the switches which enable the flipper, any of the switches may be suspect.  It is somewhat common for games which have been sitting dormant for years that the cabinet switch and / or EOS switch become so fouled, the flipper will not budge at all.  The remedy is to file these switches with an ignition file.  See the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#How_to_Properly_File_Switch_Contacts How to Properly File Switch Contacts] section.  A flexstone will not work for this job, as the cabinet and EOS switch contacts are very hard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Inspect the cabinet switches for broken female spade connectors where the cabinet wiring attaches to the switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, look at the flipper plunger / link assembly.  The plunger link is a hefty plastic piece which inserted into at hollowed out end of the flipper plunger.  The link is connected to the plunger with a small roll pin.  The link can break or the roll pin can fall out, due to vibration.  If the link is no longer connected to the plunger, the flipper will not move at all.  Refrain from trying to engage the flipper with the cabinet switches.  Continuing to enable the flipper coil will stress the coil, because the EOS switch will not open, transferring power.  The end result is an overheated flipper or damaged flipper coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers are Weak, Sluggish, or Erratic====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System1-80FlipperLinkDamageAnnotated.jpg|thumb|left|200px|A Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B Flipper Plunger/Link/Crank Parts. Note the &amp;quot;hogged out&amp;quot; part of the link]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Worn Flipper Link&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The design of the flipper crank and flipper link / plunger is peculiar to Gottlieb® games.  Gottlieb® games from the System 80/80A/80B era use a very meaty flipper link, which does not have a pivot point between it and the connected plunger.  To achieve the necessary fulcrum, the flipper link has an oval opening at the point where the link and flipper crank connect.  The two pieces are simply connected with a roll pin protruding through the two parts.  Over time, the roll pin can sometimes cut into the opening in the link, and the roll pin will catch as the flipper crank pivots.  The result is a weak flipper or a flipper which does not return to the at rest position.  Using a roll pin punch tool, remove the roll pin, and replace the flipper link / plunger assembly.  Pay close attention when installing the roll pin into the new plunger link.  It is very easy to cut into the link with the roll pin, deeming the new link / plunger worthless.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Flipper Crank Installed Incorrectly&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Reassembling a flipper bat / shoe incorrectly can result in a weak flipper.  Before tightening the two set screws which hold the flipper shaft in place, make certain that the flipper crank is centered equidistant between the upper and lower flipper bushings.  If placed too close to the upper bushing, it will &amp;quot;sandwich&amp;quot; the upper bushing between the crank and bat.  If placed too close to the lower bushing, the crank will have friction between it and the lower bushing.  The end result is a weak flipper or a flipper which does not return to the at rest position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Fouled / Pitted Switch Contacts&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Fouled switch contacts can reduce current, which in turn reduces power / strength.  Make certain that the EOS switch, cabinet switch, and switch pairs on the game over (Q) and tilt (T) relays are all clean and not pitted. Filing the contacts with an ignition file will remedy the problem, provided that the contacts are not heavily pitted.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Bad Connection to Cabinet Switch&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another problem related to the cabinet switches is the female spade connector used to connect the cabinet wiring to the switch.  These spade connectors can sometimes become sloppy or break.  In most cases, the break is not evident, until the connector is removed and reinstalled on the cabinet switch tab.  The spade connector can be removed and a new one crimped on, or the better solution is to solder the cabinet switch wires to the tabs on the cabinet switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Worn Flipper Plunger&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A mushroomed flipper plunger can create excessive drag within the coil sleeve.  When replacing the plunger / link, replace the coil sleeve and coil stop too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Coil Stop&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The coil stop &amp;quot;slug&amp;quot; is pressed into the coil stop bracket.  It is somewhat common for the slug to become detached from the coil stop bracket.  The coil stop slug will then be &amp;quot;free floating&amp;quot; within the coil sleeve.  This can create some interesting problems, but the most noticeable are reduction in flipper power, decrease in flipper stroke or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Incorrect Flipper Rubber Installed&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® used 3/8&amp;quot; wide rubber on flippers.  It fits perfectly into the groove on the plastic flipper bat.  Everybody else used 1/2&amp;quot; wide rubber, and that tended to get installed on the Gottlieb® games, too.  When a 1/2&amp;quot; wide ring is used, it almost fits, but because of the groove, it will present a funny angle to the ball instead of a flat plane.  The results are either air balls, or the flipper will smack the ball downward into the playfield.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Cracked / Broken Plastic Bat&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes the flipper bat cracks.  Replacements are available.  The screw that holds the plastic flipper bat on the metal shoe is located on the underside of the flipper.  Loosen the two set screws on the flipper crank, and the shoe and bat will come free.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Hold Winding&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Erratic flipper function is defined as a flipper which will not remain in the up (hold) position when activated.  The flipper will move rapidly up and down as if it is &amp;quot;machine gunning&amp;quot;.  This is typically the result from a break in the hold winding right at the flipper coil lug.  One resolution is to locate the broken coil winding (this will be the thinner of the two windings), and unwind one turn from the coil.  This can be accomplished if the side of the winding is not connected to the common lug of the flipper coil.  Note that the power winding cannot be unwound if it breaks.  This is because the power winding is wound on the coil bobbin first, and is located beneath the hold winding.  Once one turn of the hold winding is unwound from the coil, the excess length must be shortened.  After the correct length is determined, the portion of the winding which will be soldered to the coil lug must have its insulation stripped off.  The red or green hue on the coil winding is actually a thin insulation, which is used to keep the winding from shorting to adjacent windings.  Gently scrape the coating off the winding by using an exacto or utility knife, exposing the copper wire of the winding.  Then wrap the uninsulated winding around the coil lug, and solder it.  If a single winding cannot be removed from the existing coil, complete coil replacement is the solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers Will not Return to at Rest Position====&lt;br /&gt;
The EOS switch assembly is actuated by the pointed part of the flipper crank assembly.  This is a metal-on-metal contact point.  Due to the design of the flipper crank, it will eventually wear a hole in the EOS actuating blade.  The fix is to replace the EOS switch assembly.  About halfway through the System 80B games (around TX-Sector or so), the EOS switch was slightly relocated, and a modified flipper crank actuates the switch with a roller.  An MA-988 or MA-989 kit can be purchased to perform this upgrade on any System 80/80A/80B game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned in the previous section, the flipper link can become cut by the roll pin which secures it to the flipper crank.  This can also cause the flipper to not return to the rest position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also mentioned in the previous section, the flipper coil stop slug can detach from the coil stop bracket, causing the flipper not to return completely.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the flipper return spring has become stretched or is no longer connected to the flipper crank or coil stop anymore, the flipper will not return properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb pbdb new.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Corrected/Modified Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B Pop Bumper Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pop bumpers on all System 80 / 80A / 80B games are controlled by an under playfield mounted board known as the pop bumper driver board (PBDB). Remote pop bumper driver boards are unique to Gottlieb® System 80 games. No other manufacturer made this design decision. The reason Gottlieb® did this is probably to supplement the number of coil drive circuits as well as to solve the common problem of pop bumpers locking on with subsequent damage to the games components.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each pop bumper has its own board.  Each board provides a consistent, strong pop regardless of how long the spoon switch is activated, and ensures (when working properly) only a single pop per actuation of the spoon switch. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These boards are single-sided construction, where the traces are located only the solder side of the board.  Due to this construction, the solder connections crack easily.  Reflowing the solder of the header pins on any suspect boards is recommended to ensure a good mechanical and electrical connection.  The components should be inspected as well, because they can also have cracked solder connections that will need to be touched up.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the pop bumper fires but does not score, examine the secondary switch on each pop bumper to see if it needs cleaning or adjustment.  This switch is part of the switch matrix, and can be tested by manually pulling the pop bumper rod and ring down to activate it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Updating the Pop Bumper Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® issued a service bulletin to correct a design error with the PBDB. A great many of these boards were delivered in games prior to correcting the design at the factory. Examine the PBDBs to ensure that they have been updated. See the pictures below, noting the differences. &#039;&#039;&#039;A dead giveaway would be the lack of a jumper to replace CR1.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=150px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80/80A/80B PBDB Before/After Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-UnModifiedPBDB.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Unmodifed PBDB&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-ModifiedPBDB.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Modifed PBDB&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-ModifiedPBDBPartsExplanation.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B PBDB Update]]&lt;br /&gt;
Should your PBDB require update, follow this procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Acquire the following parts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Cut to length .156 Molex male header pins with locking ramp (you&#039;ll need a 6 pin length)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**47uf/10V electrolytic capacitor (C4)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**4.7uf/10V capacitor (C3, tantalum or electrolytic, may be axial or radial)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Jumper material (use the remaining leg cut from C4 when you install it)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove CR1, C3, and C4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the Molex connector or reflow the solder on each header pin&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Install C4 (47uf/10V) with the negative side facing the male header pins&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Use the remaining part of the capacitor leg from C4 as a jumper to replace CR1. Any jumper wire will work...the cap leg is convenient, available, and looks professional when installed nice and straight.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Install C3 (4.7uf/10V), reversing the original polarity so that the positive side faces the jumper just installed and the negative side faces the nearest board edge. Note that C3 may be axial (leads from both ends along the components &amp;quot;axis&amp;quot;) or radial (leads on one end of the component). The board is designed to accept either style.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the large can transistor (2N6057, 2N6059, PMD10K40 or PMD10K60) solder joints are solid and that the bolted end is making good contact with the PCB trace.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Test the large can transistor...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**DMM set to &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Black lead on the nut that secures the transistor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Red lead on each leg of the transistor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**A measurement between .5 and .7 should be seen. Readings significantly outside of these ranges indicate a failed transistor which should be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Examine the remaining solder joints on the board to ensure good solid joints and no lifted traces. Note that the trace between the jumper that replaces CR1 and R2 is particularly susceptible to damage and if broken, will cause the associated pop bumper to lock on.&lt;br /&gt;
*Reinstall the PBDB and test.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an update for the PBDB that gives the board a bit more &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot;. Simply replace R1 (1.5Kohms) with a 10Kohm 1/4W resistor and replace C1 (0.01mfd) with a 1 mfd 100 volt (non polarized) capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to avoid random, uncommanded pops caused by &amp;quot;noise&amp;quot; on the switch line, you can add an electrolytic capacitor to the solder side of the board. Use a 4.7 mfd 16 volt radial capacitor (both leads on one end). Solder the negative lead of the capacitor to pin 4. Solder the positive lead of the capacitor to pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing the 2N6057 with a TIP-102=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:popdrivertip102.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A TIP-102 installed on a Pop Bumper Driver Board (PBDB)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PBDTIP102.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Closer view of a TIP-102 installed on a PBDB]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 2N6057 used on Gottlieb games is obsolete, so it is hard-to-find and expensive.  A cheap and effective substitute for the 2N6057 as used on the PBDB is a TIP102 transistor.  It&#039;s not the most elegant &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot;, but it works well.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Early System 80 / 80A Drop Target Removal====&lt;br /&gt;
For now, please review the drop target removal guide available at [http://www.papinball.com/tips/gottlieb_drop_target_guide2.html PAPinball.com].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Later System 80B Drop Target Removal==== &lt;br /&gt;
This is a stub&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Vari-Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
The single largest problem with vari-targets is adjusting the spring tension, which returns the vari-target to the at rest position.  The spring can be adjusted by hooking it to one of two screws which hold the spring in place.  In most cases, there is only one screw, but two screw holes are placed 180 degreees from one another within the vari-target frame.  Spring adjustment should be made so that the vari-target barely returns to the home position, when the playfield is upright (resting against the backbox).  Once the playfield is placed in its proper position, gravity will help with the extra &amp;quot;bump&amp;quot; that the vari-target needs to return home.  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, the switch leaves of the vari-target, which &amp;quot;ride&amp;quot; along the rivet board need enough tension to make good solid contact with the rivets. Since it&#039;s impossible to bend the switch leaves closer to the rivet board with the rivet board in place, removal of the vari-target rivet board must be done to make this adjustment.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vari-targets seldom require adjustment as they were correctly adjusted at the factory. It is possible to move parts of the mechanism so that the switch no longer comes to rest on a rivet when the vari-target &amp;quot;gear&amp;quot; is stopped by the reset relay armature.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vari-targets are a rare example of where lubrication helps the operation of the mechanism. A thin film of lithium grease on the rivets helps the switch blade &amp;quot;wipe&amp;quot; cleanly across them. Like [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brylcreem Brylcreem], &amp;quot;a little dab&#039;ll do ya&amp;quot;. Note: That&#039;s humor son...Brylcreem is not a suitable lubricant...for pinball machines. :-)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Roto Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
By the time System 80 games first came out, the roto target was a dying assembly.  The believed reason is due to the amount of playfield &amp;quot;real estate&amp;quot; in which it used underneath a playfield.  Circus is the only System 80 game which used the roto target.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
===Cabinet===&lt;br /&gt;
* Power cable strain relief bushing, 80A games: Heyco 7k-2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Black Hole issues have been moved to the dedicated [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole Black Hole] page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Alien Star Game Start Failure===&lt;br /&gt;
Alien Star has a major fault when running the original 689 code.  For the game to properly start, one ball must be in the trough and one ball in the outhole.  If both balls are located in the trough, only the single trough switch will be closed, and not the outhole switch.  When only the trough switch is closed, the game *thinks* that only one ball is installed, (2 balls total are needed), and will do absolutely nothing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has not been verified, but running 689A code may resolve this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Haunted House Upkicker Plastic Tube Mounting Bracket===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cornell_VR4_cap_bracket.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Mounting bracket for the plastic tube.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The metal mounting bracket that secures the longer plastic upkicker tube to the main playfield breaks its tabs (ears) off allowing the tube to flop around loose. This bracket is actually an electrolytic capacitor mounting bracket for computer grade capacitors. If broken, Mouser Electronics sells this item as part number [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/VR4/?qs=0r35cIPu56HWvTGFwxXK2g%3d%3d 539-VR4]. The OEM part is a VR4, which is manufactured by Cornell-Dublier (Mallory).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Devil&#039;s Dare - All Displays out except status display===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DD Resistor Before.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Burnt 200 Ohm resistor on +60VDC display power line]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DD Resistor After.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Replacement 200 Ohm 2 watt resistor on +60VDC display power line]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the game in question is a Devil&#039;s Dare, and all of the displays are out except for the status display, and the +60VDC is present at the power supply, but not at the displays, the following may apply.  Some Devil&#039;s Dare games, (it is unknown exactly which ones at this point), have a 200 ohm resistor installed in series with the +60VDC power line for the displays.  The resistor is located on the lamp insert board, just behind the lower right 6 digit display.  The resistor is soldered to two solder eyelets, so replacement is relatively easy.  It is unknown what the purpose of this resistor is, but it is fairly common for the resistor to overheat and potentially fail.  The recommended replacement for this is a 200 ohm 2 watt resistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no information regarding the value or placement of this resistor in the Devil&#039;s Dare manual / schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Mars God of War (MGOW) - Background Sound Continues After Game is Over===&lt;br /&gt;
If the background sound continues after the game is over, this may solve the issue.  Even though the manual states that dipswitch 25 on the CPU board is not used, try placing switch 25 in the &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Volcano Kick Back Ends Prematurely ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:VolcanoKickBack.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The Volcano kickback mechanism.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The kickback mechanism in Volcano, once enabled by a playfield feature, remains available until the player uses the feature by pressing the green cabinet button in front of the flipper switch. The game knows that the feature has been used by sensing the switch at the rear of the mechanism. As the plunger pulls in, the normally closed switch is opened by the ring on the rear of the plunger. If this normally closed switch isn&#039;t &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; solidly, the game will think that the plunger has pulled in. The kickback feature will be considered used and hence disabled.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The behavior looks like the feature has timed out prematurely.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Games with Playfield Windows: Black Hole, Haunted House, Genesis, Monte Carlo, etc. ===&lt;br /&gt;
Playfield windows use foam washers that provide &amp;quot;counter force&amp;quot; to help keep the window flush with the playfield. If the window isn&#039;t flush with the playfield, the &amp;quot;lip&amp;quot; of the sunken window in its mount will cause airballs and/or the edge of the playfield will wear excessively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a couple decades, springy foam washers turn into hard, crumbly foam washers. Weatherstripping (&amp;quot;beer seal&amp;quot;), cut really small, works in a pinch, but the Pinball Resource stocks the proper foam washers (GTB # 21219). Strips of tool box drawer liner work as well, but there is only one chance to crank them down before they compress.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
==== Game Displays 000000 On Power Up and It&#039;s Not The Slam Switch ====&lt;br /&gt;
If you power the game on and all of the displays immediately display all zeros without strobing the problem is usually with the slam switch. However, if the slam switch modification has been done or the slam switch is working properly there is a problem with the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I had this problem on my Haunted House machine. I finally found that chip Z15 (7432) was bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I was fixing a kicker solenoid on the playfield, the playfield was still in the machine and fully in the upright position. While I was soldering the wire to the new solenoid I did not adequately protect the components below from a solder drip. Well, I did have a solder drip that landed right on a pop bumper driver board connector and shorted the connector. The short caused more than just this problem but for this narrative we will restrict to the slam/switch matrix problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reading in other materials I recognized the problem as the slam switch issue. I used a logic probe to test other components and found the CPU board working, mostly as it should except for acting like the machine was slam tilted. There was little written about the problem outside of the slam switch. I decided to check the matrix by doing a diode check on all of the diodes in the switch matrix. When I did this, I found that many of the diodes were testing bad. These were being tested with the board removed from the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Having replacement diodes in my parts drawer I decided that these must have gone bad during the short. I began unsoldering a few of the diodes. Once disconnected from the circuit board I remeasured the removed diodes and found the correct values on my meter, they were not bad. I then noticed that the bad diodes were all in the same row on the switch matrix. They all traced back to the Z15 chip. I replaced the Z15 7432 and the problem was resolved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Game Displays a single 0 or 1 on Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
If an 80A game does not boot and displays just a single zero, just a single 1, or alternates between a single zero and single 1, this may indicate one or more bad IC(s) on the MPU:&lt;br /&gt;
* CPU&lt;br /&gt;
* Z7&lt;br /&gt;
* Z8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU itself may still output data that can be picked up with a logic probe, but still might be bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-sys80a-bad-cpu-display-symptom.gif|thumb|200px|left|Animation of symptom of alternating 0 and 1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-sys80a-bad-cpu-display-symptom-zeros.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Symptom of the displays showing a single zero]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=&amp;quot;all&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Testing the Q relay ====&lt;br /&gt;
Had a problem with my Black Hole - Q relay didn&#039;t activate. Played a bit with wires, did ground mods, .. &lt;br /&gt;
After a while I noticed it did work but didn&#039;t stay enabled - at the start of a game it closed, 1 coil (ball drain) kicked and the Q relay deactivated again. Noticed this with the playfield in up position, no pinballs installed.&lt;br /&gt;
Finally tested with playfield down - and pinballs installed - suddenly the behaviour was different: ball drain coil kicked and then the next coil also that put a coil in the shooter lane. Seems the Q relay did work all this time, but will only stay enabled when pinballs are installed in the game ?!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Results of a locked on coil ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurntCoil1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Melted coil sleeve]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurntCoil2.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Burnt paper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a coil locks on (due for example to a bad driver board transistor), the coil will burn. Here is a coil which had locked on. Note the burn marks on the paper wrapping and the melted coil sleeve, which prevented the coil plunger from moving through the coil. The resistance of this coil was 0.9 ohms (the specified resistance for this particular coil should be 3.35 ohms), also indicating it&#039;s bad due to an internal short (adjacent windings shorted together due to overheating the coil wire insulation).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Black Hole top rollover switches ====&lt;br /&gt;
When Black Hole serves a ball, it must go through the top rollovers before hitting any other switch.  The playfield design ensures this.  But if it doesn&#039;t (I had the glass off and started testing some other feature), things get very weird: suddenly, I seemed to be in a 3-ball, 4-player game with some of the score displays blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This isn&#039;t usually a problem in practice but it is worth making sure that the three top rollovers have clean switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replacing the 80B 5V pot ====&lt;br /&gt;
I got a Monte Carlo and replaced the 5V adjustment pot on the regulator.  It was working fine.  After the old one had been chopped off, I discovered it was the same as the new one.  It had already been replaced!  A bunch of rework on the regulator, and ground mods on the transformer frame, should have been my clue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 80B sound doesn&#039;t work ====&lt;br /&gt;
I got a Spring Break and the sound didn&#039;t work.  The LED didn&#039;t light in any predictable way, and the game put out a lot of white noise.  At one point I thought I heard some sounds underneath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, I had a Monte Carlo sitting next to it where the sound did work.  I spent some time trying to understand the problem, and finally just swapped all the socketed chips (three EPROMs and the &amp;quot;Orator&amp;quot; speech synthesizer).  The problem followed the EPROMs, not the board.  Ultimately I replaced all three ROMs, although it seems likely that only one was likely bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the sound board has two separate CPUs, and only one controls the LED, so it is likely one of the two EPROMs associated with that CPU that is actually bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Two flash lamp problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
Monte Carlo has four pairs of flashers controlled by &amp;quot;lamp&amp;quot; drive transistors, stepped up by under-playfield transistors.  On my game, I had two unrelated problems with different flash banks.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two sockets by the roulette wheel were missing their lamps, and the under playfield was a little burned near where the lamps had been.  Apparently they were locked on, and someone had pulled the bulbs rather than fix the problem.  I replaced Q17, which was out of spec according to the measurements on this page.  I didn&#039;t replace the under-playfield MJ2955 because it seemed to measure correctly.  One down, one to go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The other flasher, the two on the left side, just didn&#039;t work.  Lamp bulbs were fine, and all transistors seemed OK by the tests given above.  I checked for continuity in the wiring and even tried grounding the transistor side of the circuit, but no lamps lit.  Finally, I pulled the plastic off to take the bulb out (to measure at the socket) and I found that the two lugs of the socket were bent and touching!  So the lamp was a short, but because of the resistor, not short enough to blow the fuse or fry the transistor.  A little bending back seems to have fixed it. -- [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 16:29, 7 February 2014 (CST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 80B Display has garbage on one display glass ====&lt;br /&gt;
Chicago Cubs had garbage/nonsensical characters on just the lower score display. I found chip U2 (type 10939) which controls the lower display to be bad. Replacing the chip cured the problem. I also installed a 40 pin IC socket for the replacement chip. If by chance you encounter the same symptom except that it is on the upper display, then chip U1 (type 10939) is bad. U1 controls the upper score display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rebuilt 80/80A Power supply, solenoid fuse blows on power up====&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 80/80A power supply has been rebuilt and the solenoid fuse blows as soon as the game is turned on, take a look at the power supply capacitor at C1. It might have been installed in the wrong direction. Make sure the (-)side on the capacitor matches the (-) side notated on the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Haunted House ten thousand digit out on several displays ====&lt;br /&gt;
Encountered the ten thousand digits missing on three displays: player 1, player 3, and bonus display. Tried several known good cpu boards and problem remained. Tried swapping displays and problem remained. I traced the problem to the wiring harness on the main playfield. At the playfield mounted transistor Q2, the transistor mounting bracket had cut into the wiring harness. I repaired the harness with electrical tape and routed the harness farther away from that bracket with a couple of wire ties. Problem fixed and all displays are now working correctly.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC&amp;diff=21198</id>
		<title>Williams WPC</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC&amp;diff=21198"/>
		<updated>2021-09-17T22:27:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* HSII &amp;amp; CFTBL Triac board (A-13088-2) */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
This guide covers Williams WPC (sometimes called WPC-89), WPC-S, and WPC-95 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC (WPC-089) CPU===&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC (Alphanumeric)====&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Funhouse]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Harley-Davidson]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC (Dot Matrix)====&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Gilligan&#039;s Island]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Terminator 2: Judgement Day]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Hurricane]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Party Zone]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC FlipTronics I &amp;amp; II====&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Addams Family]] / Addams Family Gold (the only Fliptronics I games)&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Getaway: High Speed II]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Black Rose]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Fish Tales]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Doctor Who]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[White Water]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Bram Stoker&#039;s Dracula]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Twilight Zone]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC DCS Sound====&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Judge Dredd]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Popeye Saves The Earth]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Demolition Man]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC-S with DCS Sound===&lt;br /&gt;
*[[World Cup Soccer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Flintstones]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Corvette]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Red &amp;amp; Ted Road Show]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Shadow]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Dirty Harry]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Theatre of Magic]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Indianapolis 500]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Johnny Mnemonic]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Jack*Bot]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[WHO Dunnit]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC-95 CPU===&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Congo]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Attack from Mars]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Safecracker|Safe Cracker]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Tales of the Arabian Nights]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Scared Stiff]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Junk Yard]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[NBA Fastbreak]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Medieval Madness]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Cirqus Voltaire]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[No Good Gofers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Championship Pub|The Champion Pub]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Monster Bash]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Cactus Canyon]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List Chart==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC-89 &amp;amp; WPC-S===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!WPC System&lt;br /&gt;
!MPU&lt;br /&gt;
!Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Driver&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Additional Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Dr. Dude]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Alphanumeric / System 11&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12739-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Alphanumeric, dual display (A-12793)&lt;br /&gt;
|D-11581-2016 with a special power supply board (A-13502)&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12718-00 (WPC) or 5610-12136-00 (System 11)?&lt;br /&gt;
|Sound overlay board (A-13502)&lt;br /&gt;
|Only about 100 Dr. Dude sample games use the WPC boardset. They included a special power supply board (A-13502) to accommodate the System 11 sound board (D-11581), and also includes the System 11 interconnect board (D-12313-2016). The bulk of the production run used the [[Williams System 9 - 11|System 11C boardset]].&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Funhouse]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Alphanumeric&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12739-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Alphanumeric, dual display (A-12793)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50003&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12718-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Early FH games had a System 11 sound board (D-11581 / A-13971) with a special power supply board (A-13502) and a 5610-12425-00 transformer. Later games used the WPC A-12738 sound board. [http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/966/Williams_1990_Funhouse_Prototype_Manual_Addendum.pdf Funhouse Manual Addendum]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Harley-Davidson]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Alphanumeric&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12739-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Alphanumeric, single display (A-12794)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20001&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12718-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Alphanumeric&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12739-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Alphanumeric, dual display (A-12793)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50002&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12718-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Slugfest]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-60001&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Pitch &amp;amp; Bat game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Gilligan&#039;s Island]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20003&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Terminator 2: Judgement Day]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50013&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hurricane]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50012&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Party Zone]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix / WPC-89 Fliptronic I&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20004&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Some later PZ games started transitioning over to use the Fliptronic I board (A-15028). Different game ROMs are used depending upon if the PZ uses solid state flippers or fliptronic/standard flippers.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hot Shot]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50017&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Redemption game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Addams Family]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic I&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20017&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15028&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Extra flipper power supply (A-15416)&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Getaway: High Speed II]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50004&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Rose]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20013&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Doctor Who]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20006&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Fish Tales]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50005&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20018&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[White Water]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50018&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Bram Stoker&#039;s Dracula]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50001&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Twilight Zone]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1 or A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50020&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-way through TZ&#039;s production run, the A-12697-1 driver board starting being replaced with A-12697-3.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-DCS&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50017&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13491-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Judge Dredd]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-DCS&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-20020&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13491-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-DCS&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50023&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13491-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|Driver board was changed to A-12697-1.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Demolition Man]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-DCS&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|A few prototype games used a WPC-S MPU, which uses a different ROM in order to work with the WPC-S security PIC. The standard ROM for WPC-89 boards will not work on the WPC-S board, but a WPC-89 MPU can be swapped in to replace the WPC-S MPU. All the sample and production games used a WPC-89 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Popeye Saves The Earth]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-DCS&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50022&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13491-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[World Cup Soccer]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50031&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Flintstones]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50029&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Some revisions were made on the A-14039.1 DMD driver board, but it is interchangeable with A-14039.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Corvette]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50036&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Red &amp;amp; Ted Road Show|Red &amp;amp; Ted&#039;s Road Show]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50024&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|The transformer was moved to the rear of the cabinet starting with this game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Shadow]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50032&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Dirty Harry]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50030&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Theatre of Magic]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50039&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50025&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Indianapolis 500]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50026&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Johnny Mnemonic]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50042&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[WHO Dunnit]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-4&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50044&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|This was the only game to use a A-12697-4 driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Jack*Bot]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50051&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC-95===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!WPC System&lt;br /&gt;
!MPU&lt;br /&gt;
!Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
!AV Board&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Additional Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Congo]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|The first WPC-95 game. The A-20516 AV Board drives both sound and the DMD. The A-20028 driver board included flipper power circuits, eliminating the need for a separate fliptronic board.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Attack from Mars]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[safecracker|Safe Cracker]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Ticket Tac Toe]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|?&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Redemption game (with flippers).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Tales of the Arabian Nights]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Scared Stiff]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119 or A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|The first appearance of a revision to the MPU. A-20119 and A-21377 can be used interchangeably in any WPC-95 games.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Junk Yard]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[NBA Fastbreak]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Medieval Madness]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Cirqus Voltaire]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD is mounted on the playfield, rather than in the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[No Good Gofers]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Championship Pub|The Champion Pub]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Monster Bash]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Cactus Canyon]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some games have information split between two manuals: a game manual (for general game operation) and an operations guide (for more technical information).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Safety Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-10371, January 1, 1997&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Manual contains multiple languages.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Details for board and cabinet schematics and theory of operation guides for WPC games can be found in separate documents. There are several versions of each generation. Some copies can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Theory of Operation and Schematics Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9289, October 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/djtz/ Viewer for Guide] [https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/pgds/ Viewer for Schematics]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9473 (undated)&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Switch row 7 &amp;amp; 8 are reversed from what is printed.  Row 7 should be pin 5 of U19, and row 8 should be pin 7 of U19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9473-1, May 17, 1993&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/wrhm/ Viewer]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/wpc/Williams-WPC-Schematics_16-9473-1.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Switch row 7 &amp;amp; 8 are reversed from what is printed.  Row 7 should be pin 5 of U19, and row 8 should be pin 7 of U19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9473-2, April 25, 1994&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Switch row 7 &amp;amp; 8 are reversed from what is printed.  Row 7 should be pin 5 of U19, and row 8 should be pin 7 of U19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9834, June 1994&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9834.2, January 1995&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/fsgs/ Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (Security) Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-10159.2, March 1996&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-10159.3, July 1997&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/wpc/Williams-WPC-95-Schematics-Manual_16-10159.3.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Parts Catalogs===&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Parts catalogs also had supplementary updates to add and replace pages as newer games were released after the initial release of the catalogs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1984-1987)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet, F-14 Tomcat, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle&lt;br /&gt;
|This was an early version of the blue parts catalog, and only included 9 pinball titles (and 3 shuffle alley titles). The pages of this catalog were printed on white paper. Additional titles were later included in a &amp;quot;parts catalog supplement&amp;quot; packet (16-9064-A) with blue-colored pages, which added and replaced pages for this earlier version of the parts catalog.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (Supplementary Catalog) (1987-1988)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-A&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Cyclone, Fire!, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|This &amp;quot;parts catalog supplement&amp;quot; packet with blue-colored pages added and replaced pages for the earlier version of the parts catalog. It included 7 new pinball titles not included in the previous version of the parts catalog. Later catalogs had these new pages included and were not colored blue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1984-1989)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/rvsk/ Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Black Knight: 2000, Comet, Cyclone, Earthshaker!, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Jokerz!, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Police Force, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|This is the latest version of the blue parts catalog. It included the game titles in the previous version, information from the supplementary parts catalog, a few new pinball titles, and a total of 5 shuffle alley titles. The blue parts catalog came in a blue-colored binder with the catalog&#039;s cover and game titles printed on the front, and basic information printed on the spine. The pages of this catalog were printed on pink paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (1989-1990)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Rollergames, Whirlwind&lt;br /&gt;
|The red parts catalog came in a red-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. This version of the parts catalog included 4 pinball titles and 2 shuffle alley titles. The pages were printed on white-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-A&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|?&lt;br /&gt;
|The red parts catalog came in a red-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. This was a supplementary parts catalog that updated pages and added titles to the previous version of the red parts catalog. The pages were printed on blue-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (Supplementary Catalog) (1989-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/feme/ Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Dracula, Fish Tales, Funhouse, The Getaway, Hurricane, The Machine: Bride of Pin Bot, Riverboat Gambler, Rollergames, Slugfest, Terminator 2, Whirlwind, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|The red parts catalog came in a red-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. This version of the parts catalog included 13 pinball titles, and 5 shuffle alley titles, 7 video came titles, and 3 novelty game titles. The pages were printed on gray-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1990)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Atlantis, Elvira, Game Show, Mousin&#039; Around, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|The yellow parts catalog came in a yellow-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. The pages were printed on white-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (Supplementary Catalog) (1988-1991)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-A&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Atlantis, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Elvira, Game Show, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|The yellow parts catalog came in a yellow-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. This was a supplementary update to the previous version of the catalog, which included 11 pinball titles and 4 video game titles. The pages were printed on yellow-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/itjk/ Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Atlantis, Black Rose, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Dr. Who, Elvira, Game Show, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Party Zone, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|The yellow parts catalog came in a yellow-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. The pages were printed on gold-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Gray Parts Catalog (1992-1994)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9562&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Creature From the Black Lagoon, Judge Dredd, Popeye Saves the Earth, Twilight Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|The gray parts catalog came in a white-colored binder with gray colored paper inserts for the spine and cover that included the company name, parts catalog, and part number. The pages were printed on white-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Gray Parts Catalog (Supplementary Catalog) (1992-1995)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9562-A&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/ckao/ Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family Gold, Corvette, Creature From the Black Lagoon, Indianapolis 500, Judge Dredd, Popeye Saves the Earth, The Shadow, Theatre Of Magic, Twilight Zone, Who Dunnit, World Cup Soccer&lt;br /&gt;
|The gray parts catalog came in a white-colored binder with gray colored paper inserts for the spine and cover that included the company name, parts catalog, and part number. This was a supplementary update to the previous version of the catalog. The pages were printed on light blue colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Green Parts Catalog (1993-1995)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9932&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/foky/ Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Demolition Man, Dirty Harry, Demolition Man, Indiana Jones, Road Show, Star Trek - Next Generation&lt;br /&gt;
|The green parts catalog came in a white-colored binder with green colored paper inserts for the spine and cover that included the company name, parts catalog, and part number. There was no supplementary update to this catalog.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Genuine Replacement Parts Catalog (1997-1998)&lt;br /&gt;
|10/97&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/yjjv/ Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|This catalog mainly provides listings, parts numbers, and drawings of commonly replaceable generic pinball parts for Bally/Williams games, such as flipper assembly parts, target parts, posts, springs, connectors, coils, plungers, etc. It does not contain any game-specific information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Supplementary service bulletin books were released, which included service bulletins that detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1991-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Funhouse, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Slugfest, Terminator 2&lt;br /&gt;
|This book includes some System 11 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1992&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1992-service-bulletin-book-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1992.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Funhouse, Hurricane, Party Zone, Terminator 2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, Fall 1992&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1992-fall-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1992-fall.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, The Getaway, Strike Master (shuffle alley)&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1993&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1993-service-bulletin-book-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1993.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Black Rose, Creature From the Black Lagoon, Doctor Who, Dracula, Fish Tales, NBA Jam, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1994&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1994-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1994.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Dracula, Indiana Jones, Judge Dredd, Star Trek the Next Generaton, Twilight Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, Fall 1994&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1994-fall-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1994-fall.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Popeye, Indiana Jones, Star Trek, Addams Family, Demolition Man, Flintstones&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1995&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1995-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1995.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|World Cup Soccer, Corvette&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1996&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1996-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1996.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Congo, No Fear, Indianapolis 500, Jackbot, Johnny Mnemonic, Road Show, The Shadow, Theatre of Magic&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1997&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1997-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1997.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Johnny Mnemonic, Junkyard, Safecracker, Scared Stiff, Tales of the Arabian Nights&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Individual Game-Specific Service Bulletins:&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #98 (5/97): Scared Stiff; Left Ramp Repair Kit. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=3915 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #99 (5/97): NBA Fastbreak; Ball trap fix. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4023 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #101 (12/97): Cirqus Voltaire; Disappearing jet bumper assembly not releasing. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4059 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #102 (12/97): Cirqus Voltaire; Installation instructions for Upgrade Kit #A-22270. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4059 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #104 (4/98): Cirqus Voltaire; Adjustment Sheet Update. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4059 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #107 (12/99): Champion Pub; Arms breaking prematurely. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?gid=4358 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
At the heart of the WPC MPU is the Motorola 68B09EP microprocessor, running at 2Mhz. Note that the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; suffix indicates externally clocked and is necessary to work in a WPC MPU. The &amp;quot;P&amp;quot; suffix merely indicates a &amp;quot;plastic&amp;quot; chip case. 6809 processors lacking the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; suffix will &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; work in a WPC MPU. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 68B09EP is a 2Mhz, 8-bit/16-bit CPU, with a 64KB address space. Bank switching is required to address more than 64KB. Bank switching is accomplished by the ASIC in WPC systems. The game ROM size varies from 128KB to 8MB, depending on the game. 8KB of battery backed RAM is available to the processor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For more information, see [http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc/manual/The-WPC-Hardware.html#The-WPC-Hardware The FreeWPC Manual] or [https://web.archive.org/web/20110122183733/http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc/manual/The-WPC-Hardware.html Archive.org link]&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC Parts List Lookup===&lt;br /&gt;
A really nice utility has been put together by Øyvind Møll, enabling lookup of WPC parts. The utility can be used to see which games used particular parts. The utility can be found [http://www.moll.no/pinball/parts/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC System Generations===&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC CPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-089_MPU.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-089 CPU, this one from Twilight Zone, with battery holder removed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC CPU was the cornerstone of the new WPC pinball system, introduced by Williams in 1990.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board has the following features:&lt;br /&gt;
* Motorola 68B09E processor&lt;br /&gt;
* Switch matrix inputs&lt;br /&gt;
* 8k of CMOS battery-backed memory&lt;br /&gt;
* A single EPROM, sized from 128K (1 megabit, 27C128) to 1M (8 megabits, 27C080 / 27C801)&lt;br /&gt;
* Watchdog circuit and master reset&lt;br /&gt;
* Three digital I/O ports - general-purpose; display; auxiliary (labeled &amp;quot;display&amp;quot;)&lt;br /&gt;
* WPC ASIC - an 84-pin PLCC that has decoding, watchdog, and real-time clock circuitry. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Loose Chips&#039;&#039;&#039; - resets and strange behavior&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The natural heating and cooling cycle, and vibration,  in a pinball machines causes the socketed chips to slowly walk out of their sockets. This loosening can cause mysterious behavior and resets. Firmly pressing each socketed device - including the ASIC - and listening for a small click can solve many odd problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Battery Corrosion&#039;&#039;&#039; - rows of switches failing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When batteries reach old age, they always leak electrolyte. In WPC boards, this electrolyte drips onto the switch matrix circuits. There, it causes extensive corrosion. The corrosion will eat up traces under the green solder mask, creating a lumpy appearance. This corrosion is extremely destructive. It must be caught early, and gently washed with vinegar. Damaged components must be replaced, and damaged traces cleaned with a fiberglass brush and carefully tinned with a soldering iron. Battery corrosion can render a board unrepairable, or undesirable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039; The Switch Matrix &#039;&#039;&#039; - assorted switch problems&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC system, like many pinball machines, uses a switch matrix to read the switches. The matrix is 8 rows by 8 columns, and can read 64 switches with just 16 wires. Under the playfield, the wires snake between the lights, creating strings of rows and strings of columns. The lights are isolated with diodes. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The root cause of switch matrix problems on the WPC CPU is often a voltage short to the switch matrix. This can happen with residual charge from the solenoid or flasher supply, so the machine does not have to be on for damage to occur. One easy way to do this is to touch a coil lug while adjusting slingshot switches. The row detectors - the LM339s - are quite safe from everything but the 70V solenoid voltage, and will often survive that. The column drivers, however, are directly exposed to the wiring. So many shorts - from the GI; lamp matrix; flashers; or solenoid wiring can destroy the driver. A solenoid wiring short will often destroy the 74LS374 at location U14 ahead of the driver as well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The symptom of a bad driver is a column short that does not go away when the playfield is disconnected. A bad driver may also be confused by neighboring columns, so switches may register twice.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TheCapacitorToNowhere.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This &amp;quot;missing&amp;quot; bypass capactor isn&#039;t missing at all.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC CPU is stuffed with a &amp;quot;bypass capactor&amp;quot; to the right of the ULN2803. Bypass capacitors filter high frequency noise from the 5VDC power at each integrated circuit (generally). This one...in some revisions of the PCB, isn&#039;t connected to anything on one side. It can safely be removed, or more likely, simply not be replaced when abating alkaline corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== WPC-089 Signal Map (pinouts) =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC89 CPU compnt-side ZAZ FEB2017-10.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Component Side.]][[File:WPC89 CPU solder-side ZAZ FEB2017.PNG|200px|thumb|right|Solder Side.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The two diagrams (left and right) show the signal pinout for the entire WPC-089 MPU, both front and back side view. &#039;&#039;Images provided by Sascha Voskuil.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-S CPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-SCPU.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC-S CPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-SMPU.jpg|260px|thumb|right|WPC-S CPU with daughter card intalled. Battery holder replaced with coin cell battery.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-S CPU is the second generation of WPC CPU board. The designer switched to a remote battery holder, located on a daughter board that clips to posts on the lower half of the board. This approach mostly eliminated the PCB damage caused by battery leakage. The next version of the board, the WPC-95 CPU board, switched to a plastic battery holder that doesn&#039;t provide quite as much alkaline corrosion protection to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
The board also has different switch matrix connectors than WPC and WPC-95.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The digital I/O connectors remain unchanged from the WPC CPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The most significant difference was the introduction of the security PIC. This devices contains a serial number and a handshake mechanism. The serial number is displayed at startup, and allowed the manufacturer to identify the dealer who sold a machine into a particular region. This approach was necessary when substantial price differences were common across Europe, to prevent grey imports. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To prevent simple removal of the PIC, the device also controlled the switch matrix, and would not operate without a correct machine code from the WPC CPU. Therefore, there is one PIC for each machine. An incorrect or defective chip will result in a &amp;quot;G13 error&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;U22 error&amp;quot; at startup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When buying a used WPC-S MPU, the battery holder is often missing. If connecting a battery pack, a Molex housing and 2 crimp contacts is needed. The part number for the 5 pin housing is 50-57-9405 (Digikey WM2903-ND). The crimp contacts are part number 16-02-1125 (WM2554-ND).&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-95 CPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95CPU.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC-95 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 CPU is the third generation of the WPC CPU design. It includes the security PIC added in the WPC-S system, and returns to an on-board battery holder. The new battery holder has a large plastic shell, designed to shield the PCB from any battery leakage. The pinout of the switch matrix connectors changed again from WPC-S.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===== WPC-95 CPU Factory Modification =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95FactoryMod.png|200px|thumb|left|WPC-95 CPU Board factory mod. Drawing by Sascha Voskuil.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
CPUs manufactured for Jack*Bot and Congo sample games before 12-15-95 have a factory modification that includes one cut, an additional diode, and an additional resistor. Williams [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/sb86.html Service Bulletin 86] details the reason for the mod, premature loss of backup battery voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC Power/Driver Board Generations===&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-89 Power/Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC power-driver board converts AC power from the transformer; drives the solenoids; drives the lamp matrix; drives the GI lamps; and detects flipper switch operation in non-FlipTronics machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three known variants of the WPC-89 driver board: A-12697-1, A-12697-3, and A-12697-4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The power-driver board has the following functions:&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC089 power summary.png|240px|thumb|left|Summary schematic of WPC &#039;89 Power Driver board showing test LED&#039;s and test points.  A PDF of this image can be viewed [[Media:WPC089 power summary.pdf|here]]]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC_Power_-Driver_Board.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC Power-Driver board with Flipper Relay, or the -1 version.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerDriverBoardWithoutFlipperRelay.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC Power-Driver board without Flipper Relay, or the -3 version.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*AC rectification and smoothing for 70VDC solenoid voltage&lt;br /&gt;
*AC rectification and smoothing for 20VDC flasher voltage&lt;br /&gt;
*AC rectification and smoothing for 18VDC lamp matrix voltage&lt;br /&gt;
*AC rectification and smoothing for unregulated 12V supply&lt;br /&gt;
*AC rectification and smoothing for 5VDC flasher voltage&lt;br /&gt;
*Regulated 12V supply&lt;br /&gt;
*Regulated 5V supply&lt;br /&gt;
*6.3VAC supply for GI circuits&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;high power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; solenoids (drives 1 - 8, Q64 through Q82), with clamping diode connected to 50VDC&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;low power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; solenoids (drives 9 - 16, Q44 through Q58, with clamping diode connected to 50VDC&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;flashers&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (drives 17 - 20, Q36 through Q42), without a clamping diode at all&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;special&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; solenoids (drives 21 - 28, Q20 through Q34), with clamping diode that must be connected to the power source driving the device. In practice, this is always the 50VDC power source.&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for lamp matrix&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for pre-FlipTronics flippers (not on all boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*Sense optos for pre-FlipTronics flippers (not on all boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for 5 6.3VAC GI channels using four-sector triacs&lt;br /&gt;
*Zero crossing sense for AC line in&lt;br /&gt;
*Logic interface to WPC CPU&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, -3 and -4 boards can be converted to -1 boards [http://blog.myhomegameroom.com/?p=220 by simply populating the missing components].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====WPC Power/Driver Board Layout Errors=====&lt;br /&gt;
======C9 Connection Error======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerDriverBoardC9Correction.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC Power/Driver board with C9 connection corrected.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerDriverBoardC9CorrectionSchematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Image of WPC Power/Driver board schematic, showing LM323K 5VDC regulator and C9.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At the time that this PCB was laid out and manufactured, a small tantalum capacitor, located at C9, was connected to the wrong side of the LM323K 5VDC regulator. While it should have been connected to Vin, it was in fact connected to Vout. The picture at left shows a method to correct the board so that it matches the schematics, also shown at left. In this picture, an additional &amp;quot;tab&amp;quot; was added to the top bolt of the regulator and soldered to ground, creating a redundant path to ground for the regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that while the schematics show this capacitor as .33µF, it is listed as 2.2µF in each game&#039;s parts listing, matching the capacitor that is actually installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This change isn&#039;t generally considered necessary and not thought to be a significant contributor to game resets. The original purpose of the cap was to filter high frequency noise. According to the LM323K datasheet, a 1 to 2µF tantalum capacitor should be added to the input of the LM323K if the regulator is more than 4&amp;quot; away from the main filter capacitor. The regulator is just inside of 4&amp;quot; from the 15,000µF filter capacitor at C5. As it sits on Vout, it causes no harm, but does no good either.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
======J122/J124, pin 1 Connected to Board Ground======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerDriverBoardLayoutError.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Two power/driver boards showing the factory corrected trace routing (bottom) and a later version of the board with the correction incorporated into the PCB mask (top).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some revisions of the WPC power/driver board, were manufactured with J122 and J124, pin 1, connected to board ground. This would cause whatever is connected to those connector positions, to be turned on constantly. For the game Twilight Zone, this would result in the left mini-playfield magnet being powered constantly. The picture at left shows a factory modification to the power/driver board to rectify the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-95 Power/Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 Power/Driver board performs all of the same functions as it&#039;s WPC predecessor, and also integrates flipper power circuits into the design, eliminating the need for the FlipTronics board present in WPC FlipTronics I &amp;amp; II games as well as WPC-S games. The bridge rectifiers are replaced by ganged 6A2 diodes and the filter capacitors were spec&#039;d down from 15,000µF to 10,000µF. While the WPC P/D board supported brightness control of 5 general illumination circuits, the WPC-95 P/D board can control brightness of only 3 general illumination circuits. The two remaining GI circuits are used for backbox illumination.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC095 power summary.png|240px|thumb|left|Summary schematic of WPC &#039;95 Power Driver board showing test LED&#039;s and test points.  A PDF of this image can be viewed [[Media:WPC095 power summary.pdf|here]]]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-95PowerDriverBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-95 Power/Driver board. This is the later model, with zero ohm jumpers installed in the GI circuit, lower left.]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC Alphanumeric Display Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
The Alphanumeric display driver board was used in Funhouse, Harley Davidson, and The Machine: Bride of Pin*bot. The board still contains the high voltage handling ICs, UDN6118 and UDN7180. It also has its own high voltage generation circuit that is a carryover from earlier Williams high voltage display circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCAlphaNumericDisplayDriverFront.jpg ‎|250px|thumb|left|WPC Alphanumeric Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCAlphaNumericDisplayDriverRear.jpg ‎|250px|thumb|left|WMS A-12739-1 WPC Alphanumeric Display Driver PCB]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC Dot Matrix Controller board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC DMD Controller.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC DMD Controller board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC DMD display and DMD controllers are common features in Williams 1990&#039;s era pinball machines. The display is a high-voltage plasma system that has scanning electronics built in. The WPC dot matrix controller board, or WPC-95 AV (Audio/Video) board in later machines, provides the power for operation, and maintains the display dot images in its memory. The CPU loads these pages ahead of time, then instructs the display controller to &amp;quot;flip&amp;quot; the images onto the screen. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that sometimes U12 is stuffed on this board and sometimes it is not. There is no functional difference whether U12 is stuffed or not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clive at the Coin-Op Cauldron has written an excellent article detailing some of the nitty gritty of the DMD controller. The article can be found [http://coinopcauldron.com/dotarticle.html here].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC pre-DCS Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC Sound Board.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC pre-DCS Sound Board, sound ROMs removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pre-DCS sound board uses a single LM1875 amp and can accommodate up to 3 sound ROMs. With a single &amp;quot;sound lane&amp;quot; and amp, stereo sound is not possible. The three speakers are connected in series, each of them attempting to accentuate different bands of the audio spectrum. A broken wire to any of the three speakers will result in no sound at all.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC DCS Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC DCS Sound Board.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The WPC DCS Sound Board]]With Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure, Williams introduced the DCS sound system. Its DSP architecture was a significant improvement on earlier systems, and it allowed Williams to use recorded music from EPROM rather than synthesizer music. The board also introduced dual amplifiers and an electronic crossover. DCS allowed Williams to use compressed sound samples, significantly improving the sound quality of the games.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board dropped the microprocessor controlled synthesizer chip and sound bite system of earlier WPC machines, and replaced them with the  still in production Analog Devices ADSP-2105 DSP. For its time, this was an extremely fast device (40MHz), and is capable of providing all of the sound processing needed in a WPC pinball machine. The ADSP-2115 can also be used as a replacement for the 2105. It adds a second serial port which is not used in WMS pinballs. Williams also upgraded the chip amp. The new chip amp operates at a lower voltage, and forced a corresponding change in the transformer voltage (12VAC + 12VAC). Therefore, DCS machines have different transformer winding to previous WPC machines. The system has an electronic crossover, separating high frequencies to the backbox and low frequencies to the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The card connects to the WPC CPU through the I/O port. It shares the port with the Fliptronics board and the display board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What&#039;s on the Board?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DCS sound board has the following subsystems:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
* Rectifier and fused power supply for +/-16VDC amplifier power [check - WPC was 35V?]&lt;br /&gt;
* Dual-channel power amplifier with electronic crossover&lt;br /&gt;
* DSP-based sound synthesizer&lt;br /&gt;
* One EPROM for DSP code storage&lt;br /&gt;
* Other EPROMS for sound storage&lt;br /&gt;
* High-speed program memory for the DSP&lt;br /&gt;
* Mailbox interface for WPC-CPU&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On power-up, the board runs a diagnostic and sounds a bong. It does this without any help from the WPC CPU. If there is no bong, the board has a problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The smoothing capacitors C20 and C21 are often at the end of their useful lives. The chip amp, like the Honey Badger, really doesn&#039;t care, and will accomodate capacitor variance. However, replacing them will make even the pre-DCS sound much richer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The coupling capacitors at C32 and C41 can fail.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-95 AV Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wpc95AV.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-95 AV Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 AV board integrated the sound and video system into a single board, siginifcantly reducing power and space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board has the following major subsystems&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;ASIC&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The ASIC is a 208-pin flatpack device. It incorporates the following functions:&lt;br /&gt;
*Interface registers to CPU&lt;br /&gt;
*Memory control and display output logic for the diaplay subsystem&lt;br /&gt;
*Memory interface for the AD2105 DSP&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The ASIC has a tendency to fail in such a way that the sound disappears. New ASICs are available, but replacing them requires skill with surface mount devices. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Audio DSP&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The audio susbsystem uses the same part as the DCS sound board the Analog Devices DSP part ADSP-2105 and an AD1851 DAC. For its time, this was an extremely fast device (40MHz), and is capable of providing all of the sound processing needed in a WPC pinball machine. The AD1851N in DIP package was discontinued 2010 but the DSP is still available at Digikey and many other stores (ADSP-2105BPZ-80 ). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: lower center of board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Serial Port&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The serial port is rarely populated. Its uses include: machine debugging; machine linking ([[NBA Fastbreak]]); ticket printers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: lower left of board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Audio Amplifier&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The audio amplifier is a dual-channel TDA 2030A operating at X volts. The system has an electronic crossover, separating high frequencies to the backboox and low frequencies to the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: lower right of board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;DMD Power&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The DMD nominally requires 62, -100 and -112VDC to operate. The board uses a temperature-compensated design to supply these voltages.The -112VDC line is built as a 12V offset from the -100VDC line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: upper right of board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC FlipTronics I &amp;amp; II Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
Beginning with The Addams Family, Williams implemented the FlipTronics flipper power and switch sensing system. The Addams Family and The Addams Family Gold were the only two games which used the FlipTronics I board. Subsequent games until the WPC-95 board set debuted used the FlipTronics II board. FlipTronics II boards are backward compatible with the FlipTronics I board. The three FlipTronics II board revisions (A-15472, A-15072-1, and A-15472-1) are interchangeable. The WPC-95 board set integrated the flipper electronics into the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC_Fliptronics_I_Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WPC Fliptronics I Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Fliptronics II.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC Fliptronics II Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Prior to the FlipTronics system, flipper circuit design had essentially been the same simple circuit.  This circuit consisted of power to two flipper coil windings (the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; windings).  When the flipper cabinet switch was closed, the power winding and hold winding were both energized. As the flipper plunger was pulled in, the flipper EOS switch opened, interrupting power to the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; winding, leaving only the &amp;quot;hold winding&amp;quot; energized to hold the flipper in the up position. Flipper coil systems were designed this way so a flipper could be energized indefinitely (in theory).  A failed EOS switch could result in weak flipper performance (poor EOS switch conduction) or result in burned flipper coils (EOS switch that never opens).&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The FlipTronics system ended reliance on properly operating EOS switches. While FlipTronics systems still have EOS switches, they generally are not used to control power to the coil windings. The EOS switch provides feedback to the MPU that the flipper has completed a stroke. A failed EOS switch will not cause damage to either the coil or to the switch circuitry. If the MPU doesn&#039;t receive feedback that the flipper has completed a full stroke within a specific time (milliseconds), the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; winding power will still be interrupted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a special case where a properly operating EOS switch comes into play. The EOS switch on FlipTronics games helps to keep the flipper bat in the up position when a fast moving pinball strikes the flipper. When the ball strikes the flipper, moving it toward the &amp;quot;at rest&amp;quot; position, a properly operating EOS switch will open. The FlipTronics board will then provide a path to ground for the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; winding until the flipper completes the upward stroke, closing the EOS switch again. Games with broken or malfunctioning EOS switch(es) may allow the flipper bat to drop all the way to the &amp;quot;at rest&amp;quot; position when struck by a rapidly moving ball, with possible loss of ball, and a great deal of &amp;quot;what the @#$% just happened&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FlipTronics game flipper operation:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Flipper power is always present at the flipper coil lugs. For the flipper to actuate, that coil power needs to find a path to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
#The FlipTronics board switch sensing circuitry recognizes closure of a flipper cabinet switch.&lt;br /&gt;
#The FlipTronics board communicates closure of the flipper cabinet switch to the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#The MPU commands the FlipTronics board to provide ground for the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; winding of the flipper coil (via a circuit passing through a 2N5401, TIP-102, and TIP-36C).  This process is similar to how high powered coils are controlled by the power driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
#A few milli-seconds later (thousandths of a second), the MPU commands the FlipTronics board to interrupt the ground path for the power stroke winding and to provide ground for the hold winding portion of the coil (via a circuit passing through a 2N5401 and a TIP-102).&lt;br /&gt;
#The FlipTronics board switch sensing circuitry recognizes close of the flipper EOS switch, and communicates that switch closure to the MPU. Again, this switch closure isn&#039;t used to control power to the flipper coil windings. It&#039;s merely information.&lt;br /&gt;
#When the player releases the cabinet flipper switch, the FlipTronics board again senses that open switch, communicates the change in state to the MPU which then commands the FlipTronics board to interrupt ground to the hold winding also, and the flipper returns to it&#039;s at rest position.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WPC-95 games use the exact same methods. However, the WPC-95 board set integrates the capabilities of the FlipTronics board into the power driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The FlipTronics II board also rectifies AC voltage sourced from the game transformer, and relayed to it from the Power/Driver board to create the 70VDC flipper power (the FlipTronics I board relies an an &amp;quot;extra flipper power supply&amp;quot; to rectify the flipper voltage). A FlipTronics board can sense 8 switches, and control up to four flipper power and hold windings. In some games, spare flipper cabinet switches, EOS switches, and coil drive circuits are used for other game features.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that sometimes C2 is installed on this board and sometimes it is not. The board pictured does not have C2 installed. Since C2 is a 100µF/100V capacitor, it can&#039;t be doing too much AC smoothing of the full wave rectified flipper power. Some RGP discussions indicate that C2 may have been designed in originally to reduce EMI (electro-magnetic interference) from the board. Installing C2 will have a negligible affect on flipper power. Some report that installing C2 fixes a &amp;quot;jittery gate&amp;quot; symptom on BSD&#039;s &amp;quot;mist&amp;quot; assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More information about bench testing FlipTronics board is available [[Leon_Borre_WPC_Fliptronics_board_repair | here]].&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Miscellaneous WPC Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC 7 Opto Board (A-14977, A-15576, A-15595)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:7OptoBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Example WPC 7 Opto Board, as found in AFM and many other WPC games.]] &lt;br /&gt;
This board is a typical example of a WPC opto board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector on the lower left (as pictured) provides the power for seven IR emitters. The emitters are powered from the 12V supply through a 260 ohm resistor (the large blue resistors adjacent to the connector). Williams runs the opto emitters at about 40mA, which results in the resistors becoming hot. The opto boards are often darkened by the heat, as this one is. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector on the upper left carries the signals for the photo-transistors. The photo-transistor collector connects to 12V, and its emitter connects to ground through two 2KOhm resistors connected in series. When the transistor is illuminated by the emitter, it passes more current through the resistors, raising the input voltage on the LM339. The other pin on the LM339 is set to about 2.8V buy a 100K/22K voltage divider. Therefore, when the voltage at the junction of the two 2K resistors and the LM339 input is above 2.8V, the switch will read as closed. This happens at 1.4mA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two left side connectors can be used for optical trough switches. The connector on the right hand side provides the the row/column switch matrix interface to the MPU.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistor discoloration is cosmetic, and rarely causes problems. The biggest problem for these boards is switch matrix shorts. If any of the power lines hits the switch matrix, it can easily destroy the LM339 and possibly its output diode. This issue will manifest as a ground short on one or more rows. It can be tested by removing the switch matrix connector. If the problem goes away, the associated LM339 and possibly its diode need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the short was from the 70V supply, multiple LM339s may be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replacing LM339s on these boards needs to be done carefully, as it is easy to lift traces and pull the through-hole plating. Always socket replaced ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC 10 Opto Board (A-15430, A-18159, A-20246) ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 10 Opto.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Example WPC 10 Opto Board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The 10 opto board was used in Bram Stoker&#039;s Dracula, Dr. Who, Indiana Jones, Pinball Circus, Popeye, Cactus Canyon, Corvette, Monster Bash, Medieval Madness, Revenge From Mars, SafeCracker, SWE1, Shadow, Congo, Indianapolis 500, and World Cup Soccer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector on the upper left carries the power for seven of the IR emitters. The emitters are powered from the +12V supply through a 260 ohm resistor (the large blue resistors adjacent to the connector). Williams runs the opto emitters at about 40mA, which results in the resistors becoming hot. The opto boards are often darkened by the heat, as can be viewed in the adjacent picture. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector on the lower left carries the signals for the photo-transistors. The photo-transistor collector connects to +12V, and its emitter connects to ground through two 2KOhm resistors connected in series. When the transistor is illuminated by the emitter, it passes more current through the resistors, raising the input voltage on the LM339. The other pin on the LM339 is set to about 2.8V by a 100K/22K voltage divider. Therefore, when the voltage at the junction of the two 2K resistors and the LM339 input is above 2.8V, the switch will read as closed. This happens at 1.4mA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These two connectors can be used for optical switch troughs. The three connectors on the right hand side each carry signals for one transmitter/receiver pair. These connections are often used for ramp entrances, and sometimes the pair is mounted on a single bracket.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector on the bottom provides the the row/column switch matrix interface to the MPU.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:10OptoBoardCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The leaky capacitor removed and shown in this picture, spewed enough electrolyte to completely eat through the power trace, causing the board fail.]]‎&lt;br /&gt;
The resistor discoloration is cosmetic, and rarely causes problems. The biggest problem for these boards is switch matrix shorts. If any of the power lines hits the switch matrix, it can easily destroy the LM339 and possibly its output diode. This issue will manifest as a ground short on one or more rows. It can be tested by removing the switch matrix connector. If the problem goes away, the associated LM339 and possibly its diode need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the short was from the 70V supply, multiple LM339s may be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replacing LM339s on these boards needs to be done carefully, as it is easy to lift traces and pull the through-hole plating. Always socket replaced ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another common issue is the 100uf/35V electrolytic capacitor at C1 will leak corrosive liquid that eats through the traces under it. This interrupts the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC Custom 10-Opto Board (Twilight Zone)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TZ10OptoBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Twilight Zone specific 10 Opto Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This 10-Opto board appeared only in Twilight Zone. As can be seen, it differs in pinout (at the very least) from the more ubiquitous 10-Opto board above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See &amp;quot;[http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC_10_Opto_Board_.28A-15430.2C_A-18159.2C_A-20246.29 WPC 10 Opto Board (A-15430, A-18159, A-20246)]&amp;quot;, above.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC 16 Opto Board (A-16998, A-17223)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:16OptoBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC 16 opto boards, both versions]]This board is used in at least Star Trek: The Next Generation, Junkyard, and Champions Pub. Note the two different &amp;quot;versions&amp;quot;. The bracket on one side is believed to be part number 5768-13739-00 while the bracket on the other side is believed to be part number 5768-13739-01. The boards are identical in layout and components. The only difference is bracket mounting, some silk screening, and one version has holes in the PCB which are not used.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====8 High Power PCB Assembly (A-16116)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:A16116-8-HighPowerPCBAssembly.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A 8 High Power PCB Driver Board as used in &#039;&#039;Twilight Zone&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 8 High Power PCB was used only on Twilight Zone. It has the capacity to drive 8 high power coils if fully populated. Instead, it drives 5 high power coils as populated for Twilight Zone. This simple board is merely an extension of the power/driver board solenoid drive circuitry designed to accommodate the extra coils incorporated into the Twilight Zone design. It replicates the power/driver board circuitry of the TIP-36c transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Auxiliary 8-Driver Board (A-16100)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:8 driver board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|An example 8-Driver board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The auxiliary 8-driver board sits in the top right of the backbox in a handful of WPC machines. The board is designed to run flashers, low-power solenoids, and perhaps motors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector labeling is tricky as the 8-Driver board is controlled by a ribbon cable that is connected to the &amp;quot;Display&amp;quot; connector on the WPC CPU board (J204). The &amp;quot;Display&amp;quot; label is a historical artifact and refers to the alphanumeric display used in Funhouse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board has 8 outputs, driven by TIP-102 transistors with a 2N4403 pre-driver, similar to the WPC power/driver board (which uses a 2N5401 as a pre-driver). The board is used in the following games:&lt;br /&gt;
*Demolition Man&lt;br /&gt;
*Indiana Jones&lt;br /&gt;
*Road Show&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Trek: The Next Generation&lt;br /&gt;
*Twilight Zone&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board circuitry can be jumpered to add one or two more columns to the switch matrix. This makes the board more flexible but also may require different jumpers to use the board in different games (i.e. the boards are not completely interchangeable between games &amp;quot;as is&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jumpers to be installed for Demolition Man and Roadshow should be...&lt;br /&gt;
*PW1, PW3, PW5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jumpers to be installed for Twilight Zone, Star Trek: The Next Generation, and Indiana Jones should be...&lt;br /&gt;
*SW2, SW4, SW6&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Indiana Jones, Star Trek: The Next Generation and Twilight Zone use Q12 via the J5-1 connection to add this column. Although Twilight Zone adds the column, the column isn&#039;t displayed during switch test (T.1). The column is used to read the 8 optos in the clock mechanism.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;What Goes Wrong?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This is a pretty simple board. Generally, the problem is going to be a blown transistor, or rarely, a failed 74ALS576 latch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A problem which may occur are locked-on coils or flashers. This can be caused by the ribbon cable not being firmly seated. This can happen during the game or in attract mode and is caused by floating data line signals to the 8 Driver Board. A remedy has been found to solve this problem. This involves soldering a 10K resistor from the CLK to 5V and a resistor array 8x10K to pull down all data lines to GND. More information about this modification can be found under the [[Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation#Diode_.22Tie_Back.22_missing_causes_8-Driver_Board_transistor_to_fail|&amp;quot;Diode Tie Back Missing Causes 8-Driver Board Transistor to Fail&amp;quot; section on the Star Trek: The Next Generation page]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:STTNGDiodeTieBackAtCoilPower.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diode tie-back at the single drop target assembly. Note the small purple/green wire soldered to the target reset coil&#039;s power side (two larger gauge purple/green wires).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another thing to watch for is a &amp;quot;diode tieback&amp;quot; connection to the board for games like Star Trek: The Next Generation. Without this &amp;quot;diode tieback&amp;quot;, transistors on the 8-Driver board WILL be damaged. The diode tie-back wire is purple/green and connects from the coil power side of one of the drop target assembly coil lugs to J4 pin 1 on the 8-Driver board. If the solder connection at the coil lug is solid, suspect the wire connection at the IDC connector. Repinning this connection with good a quality crimp-on TriFurcon pin is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Overlay Board (A-13502)====&lt;br /&gt;
This board acted as a power supply for a small subset of Funhouse and Dr. Dude games during the transition from System 11 to WPC in cases where the WPC boardset still included the [[Williams_System_9_-_11#Sound_Boards|System 11 D-11581 sound board]].&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Sound Overlay Board (A-13502)]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Attack from Mars &amp;quot;Strobe&amp;quot; Board (A-20669)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:AFMStrobeBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-20669 Attack From Mars Strobe Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The strobe board at left is unique to Attack from Mars. Williams used underrated 100µF/100V non-polarized caps on the board that often fail with the telltale &amp;quot;bulge&amp;quot; at one end. The &amp;quot;transformer&amp;quot; on the board (blue rectangular box, lower/right in the picture) has very fine legs which can break due to vibration at the back of the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Excellent repair information for this board can be found [http://www.iobium.com/fixing_the_afm_strobe_board.htm here] and a possible replacement for the overloaded non-polarized capacitors [http://kcpins.com/archives/63 here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Trough opto boards====&lt;br /&gt;
When WIlliams moved to the gravity trough, they also switched to optical switches to detect the ball. The trough is covered by a Williams patent.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two generations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS A-17982 WPC Trough Transmitter.JPG|thumb|200px|left|WMS A-17982 Trough Transmitter Board - First Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS A-17981 WPC Trough Receiver.JPG|thumb|200px|left|WMS A-17981 Trough Receiver Board - First Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
The first generation (Judge Dredd - Indiana Jones ???) used a receiver board with all of the switch logic on the board. The vibration in the trough makes extra components subject to failure. The second generation (xxx -) uses a regular opto board, and the trough receiver just has phototransistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As with all Williams opto circuits, the transmitters are driven to the very limit, and the series resistors overheat. This overheating destroys the solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, the continued vibration makes the resistor legs crack, and weakens the pins in the IDC connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later versions used rubber grommets to isolate the boards from the trough.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Parts Leads&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS WPC Trough Transmitter Reworked.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Typical Trough Opto Transmitter Boards after resistors have been replaced or soldered multiple times]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistors on the emitter board are subject to cracked legs. Wiggle them to see if they are good. replace the resistor if there are any signs of trouble. On earlier receiver boards, inspect all components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Trough Divots&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_WPC_Gravity_Trough_Dimpled.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Typical Trough Divots Caused by Balls]]&lt;br /&gt;
Balls make great hammers and, over time, they will beat divots into the trough floor. Then, they will then rest in the divots and cause all kinds of ball count problems. The problem is exacerbated with slightly magnetized balls. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The fix is to file them out, and then sand the metal smooth. A dremel tool with grinding stone works great for this. PinBits.com sells a nice &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; for this problem called a [http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;products_id=449 &amp;quot;Ball Trough Magnetic Jam Protector&amp;quot;] that slides in over the divots.  This product eliminates the ability of balls to rest in the divots as well as breaking any magnetic connection, because it is made from PETG plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mad Amusements offers a stainless steel version of a [http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=459 trough sleeve insert].  Although it is more costly, this is a high quality product.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WH2O Chaser Lamp Board (A-15761)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:A-15761ChaseLampBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-15761 Chase Light Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used for the chaser lamps on Whitewater. It is a simple lamp sequencing board that causes the lamps to &amp;quot;chase&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board rectifies 16VAC via BR1 and BR2 to create approximately 12VDC to power the chase lamps. The board also receives 12VDC from the power/driver board and regulates it down to 5VDC via an LM7805. This 5VDC is used for the logic level ICs on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====CFTBL Chase Light II Board (A-15541)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:5768-13221-02.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-15541 Chase Light II Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used for the chaser lamps located around the ramps and whirlpool bowl in Creature From the Black Lagoon.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Eight BT138 triacs, which are predriven by 2N4403 transistors, control eight discrete lamp strings.  In addition to the lamps chasing, the lamp strings can be dimmed for effect.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Current Driver Board (C-13963)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:C-13963HighCurrentDriverBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C-13963 High Current Driver board as used in NBAFB and Funhouse.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HighCurrentDriverBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|right|C-13963 High Current Driver board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
This board drives the jaw motor for the playfield heckler Rudy in the game Funhouse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The circuitry is identical to the &amp;quot;Corvette/Road Show Dual H-Drive Motor Control Board&amp;quot; in the next section except that this board controls a single motor only.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Corvette/Road Show Dual H-Drive Motor Control Board (A-19159/A-19242-1)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSMotorDriveBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Dual H-Drive Motor Control Board (A-19159/A-19242-1)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:A-19159DualHDriveMotorControllerSchematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Dual H-Drive Motor Control Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Dual H-Driver Motor Control Board&amp;quot; is used on Corvette and on Road Show. For Corvette, it drives the two small motors that animate the two car race track on the right side of the playfield. For Road Show, it controls both Red and Ted&#039;s mouth motors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While the board has two different part number designations, they are, in fact, identical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Parts enclosed by &amp;quot;Block A&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Block B&amp;quot; in the schematics are not stuffed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Operation&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The board is powered by either 12VDC (J118/2, Roadshow) or 20VDC (J107/6, Corvette) from the power/driver board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Each &amp;quot;channel&amp;quot; receives a direction and an enable signal. The signal is either grounded or floating.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Four transistors on the power/driver board provide these signals (three transistors for Corvette as both motors always run in the same direction in game operation, either forward or reverse).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Grounding the &amp;quot;enable&amp;quot; pin for a channel enables power to the associated motor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Grounding the &amp;quot;direction&amp;quot; pin (or leaving it floating) for a channel causes the motor to turn either clockwise or counterclockwise.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Each channel can be controlled independently. Hence the name, Dual H-Drive.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;What Goes Wrong?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Most failures are caused by the two 100uf/35V electrolytic capacitors on the board. They sometimes leak and destroy the power traces beneath them. After that, the TIP102/TIP-107 transistors can fail. These are easily tested using the &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot;. The LM339 is relatively beefy and rarely fails but of course, this is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bi-Directional Motor Board (A-15680)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:A-15680BiDirectionalMotorBoardSchematic.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-15680 Bi-directional Motor Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:TraceCloseup-A15680.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Close up view of traces under A-15680 filter capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in Cirqus Voltaire, Dr Who, Party Zone and White Water.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One problematic aspect of the board&#039;s design is that the 100µF electrolytic cap is mounted over the trace that carries 12VDC power to the drive transistors. If the electrolytic cap fails and leaks it&#039;s corrosive contents, it will eat through the trace and the board won&#039;t work correctly. If this happens in WH2O, Big Foot will not turn his head during game test at boot up. The board pictured at left exhibited this problem and was repaired. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that this cap, C2, was sometimes not stuffed at the factory. It&#039;s purpose is to filter noise from the 12VDC power, but the power is clean enough that this cap isn&#039;t really necessary. Note also that the schematics for the board are in error, designating this 100µF/25V cap as C1 instead of C2 as is silkscreened onto the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another seemingly prevalent issue with this board is failure of the diodes. If either D8 or D9 fail, the associated motor will turn ONLY counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board is controlled by two transistors on the driver board. One transistor &amp;quot;enables&amp;quot; movement of the associated motor. The other determines whether the motor moves clockwise or counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Double Flipper Opto Switch Board (A-15894)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-15894 Flipper Opto Board Mounted on the Cabinet Wall]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in early WPC games which used the Fliptronics II board starting with Doctor Who (please confirm first game).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note when testing these boards, the right flipper board has to be plugged in for the left board to function.  This is due to the +12v and ground connections being daisy-chained through the right board PCB to the left board.  The manuals will typically claim the opposite.  And in some cases, the +12v is daisy-chained via the right opto board, while the ground is daisy-chained via the left opto board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is always best to check the wiring in the game.  If two gray or orange wires are connected on one side of the cabinet, the +12v and / or ground are daisy-chained to the the opposite side.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====HSII &amp;amp; CFTBL Triac board (A-13088-2)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMS_A-13088-2_Triac_Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|A-13088-2 Triac Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in High Speed 2: The Getaway (for the beacon motor), CFTBL (for the hologram motor), and Hot Shot (basketball redemption game). This triac board was also used in the System 11B game, Whirlwind, under board number C-13088.  It was used to control the topper fan.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the board is single sided, fractured solder joints are frequently a problem with this board, especially at C1 for some reason. The other failure point on this board is the MOC 3031 otpoisolator.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 24 Inch Opto Board (A-15646) ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:24InchOptoBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC 24 Inch Opto Board as used on BSD and Shadow]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: This board is sometimes referred to as the &amp;quot;24 Switch Opto PC Board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used on Bram Stoker&#039;s Dracula to sense the &amp;quot;Mist Ball&amp;quot; and on Shadow to sense when the ball is at the bottom of the mini playfield. The board is also used in Star Wars: Episode 1, NBA Fastbreak, Judge Dredd, and Hot Shot (basketball redemption game). The usual problem with this board is that the large inductor (marked &amp;quot;106C&amp;quot; in the picture) vibrates off the board. The circuitry on this board is similar to a television remote control circuit. It senses a particular signal frequency.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====TAF &amp;amp; TAFG High Power Board (A-15139)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC A-15139 High Power Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|A-15139 High Power board as used in TAF and TAFG]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board (aka magnet board) drives the three under playfield magnets used on The Addams Family and The Addams Family Gold.  It is located under the bottom left of the playfield.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====TAF &amp;amp; TAFG Extra Flipper Power Supply (A-15416)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC A-15416 Extra Flipper PS.JPG|200px|thumb|left|A-15416 Extra Flipper Power Supply board as used in TAF and TAFG]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board powers the upper flippers and the playfield magnets for The Addams Family and The Addams Family Gold.  It is located just to the right and just above the driver board in the backbox.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The schematics for this board are incorrect in the Addams Family manual.  Specifically J903 is shown incorrectly.  J903 Pins 1 and 2 supply 50v for the magnet board under the playfield.  Pins 3 and 4 are ground for the magnet board under the playfield.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The Shadow Five Switch and Diode P.C.B. (A-13940) ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TheShadowDiodeBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This board was used only on &amp;quot;The Shadow&amp;quot; to provide lamp matrix diode isolation for the 4 &amp;quot;Ring Grain of Wheat&amp;quot; lamps, in-situ.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TheShadowDiodeBoardBare.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The bare board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board was used only on &amp;quot;The Shadow&amp;quot; to provide lamp matrix diode isolation for the 4 &amp;quot;Ring Grain of Wheat&amp;quot; lamps. Yes, that&#039;s really it&#039;s name.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coin Door Interface Board==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CoinDoorInterfaceBoardAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC/WPC-95 Coin Door Interface Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The coin door interface board provides signal connection between the coin door switches and the WPC switch matrix and dedicated switches like the &amp;quot;diagnostic&amp;quot; and volume control buttons. The coin door interface board also creates the &amp;quot;always closed&amp;quot; switch 24 by bridging column 2 and row 4 with a diode. WPC games use this &amp;quot;always closed&amp;quot; switch to identify switch matrix power issues.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the coin door interface board gets dusty from flipper parts wearing, clean it. That dust is conductive and may cause odd coinage issues. There really isn&#039;t much that can go wrong with this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC Alphanumeric Plasma Display Board==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:FHDisplayComponentSide.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The component side of the Funhouse / Bride of Pinbot WPC alphanumeric display.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:FHDisplayGlassSide.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The display glass side of the Funhouse / Bride of Pinbot WPC alphanumeric display.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Funhouse and The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot used dual 16-Alphanumeric displays, and a special (specific) high voltage power supply/logic board. The high voltage circuit is similar, if not identical, to late System 11 high voltage power circuits.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Harley Davidson also used dual 16-alphanumeric displays, however, they were placed side by side on separate boards, instead of being &amp;quot;stacked&amp;quot; on one board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Scared Stiff Crate Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:ScaredStiffCrateBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The &amp;quot;Scared Stiff&amp;quot; Crate Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This simple board mounts to the top of the Scared Stiff crate. It creates the &amp;quot;eyes&amp;quot; that look out the top of the crate. It contains 8 LEDs, 4 current limiting resistors, and 4 diodes, which isolate the LED &amp;quot;lamps&amp;quot; in the lamp matrix. Very little can go wrong with this board other than fractured solder joints, since it lives in a high vibration area of the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====DC Motor Control Board (A-16120)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:A-16120DCMotorControl.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-16120 DC Motor Control Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in Cactus Canyon, Demo Man, Monster Bash, No Good Gophers, The Shadow, Twilight Zone, Theater of Magic, World Cup Soccer.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Driver PCB Assembly (A-15946)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:A-15946DCMotorControl.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-15946 Bridge Driver PCB Assembly]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in Indiana Jones and Hot Shots Basketball. The board is close in design to the A-16120 DC Motor Control Board (above). For Indiana Jones, it controls the Path of Adventure motor, which must turn both clockwise and counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This simple assembly receives 12VDC power and ground, along with two solenoid connections to the driver board. Grounding one pin of the connection causes +12VDC to be output at the motor power pins. Grounding the other pin will cause -12VDC to be output at the motor power pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Indiana Jones uses solenoid 22 to move the POA left and solenoid 23 to move the POA right. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Indiana Jones Path of Adventure (POA) Opto Board ==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:IJPOAOptoBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The Indiana Jones POA opto board. The optos are identical to those used on cabinet flipper switch opto boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This simple board is used in Indiana Jones to provide &amp;quot;travel limit&amp;quot; feedback to the MPU for the POA. Typical problems include fractured solder joints, since the board experiences a lot of vibration from the POA motor, as well as simple opto failures.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Corvette Z5 Master (A-18532) and Slave Boards (A-19625)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bally Corvette A-18532 Motor Driver Master.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bally Corvette A-18532 Motor Driver Master]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bally Corvette A-19625 Motor Driver Slave.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Bally Corvette A-19625 Motor Driver Slave]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This pair of boards work together to &amp;quot;rev&amp;quot; the ZR1 LT5 engine toy on the upper left side of the playfield. The master board senses the position of the motor unit using a Hall Effect sensor located below the engine toy assembly. The slave board uses 20V power and four TIP-102s to control four coils below the playfield on the ZR1 LT5 assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Debugging information for the ZR1 LT5 assembly can be found [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Corvette#LT-5_Engine_Electronics_issues here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== WPC A-13901 / A-17402-3 (and variants) Opto Ramp Switch Board (3 Opto Controller) ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS A-17402 3-opto.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WMS 3 Opto Controller Board (as shown under playfield of Indiana Jones)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS A-13901 A-17402-3 Schems.png|200px|thumb|right|Schematics for A-13901 / A-17402-3 3 Opto Controller Board (*Note: R10 value was changed to correct 22K value in schems)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are several variations of the A-13901 / A-17402 3 opto controller board used on several games.  Games such as Indiana Jones, CFTBL, Fish Tales, High Speed 2, Hurricane, Slugfest, Funhouse, and Hot Shot all used some version of this board.  The part numbers used are: &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901-1-AI    &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901-1       &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901-2      &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901-3      &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901-AI      &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901 &lt;br /&gt;
*A-17402-3   &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Coin Doubler Board ==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCCoinDoublerInSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An Aftermarket &amp;quot;Coin Doubler&amp;quot; Board, shown attached to a WPC MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This aftermarket add-on board connects atop the direct switches connector on the WPC MPU. It intercepts the coin switches and, for each switch closure it sees, sends the computer two closures. This &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot; effectively halves game pricing.  This was done because Williams removed the one-coin-per-play pricing for some games to try and force a price increase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These are still for sale from [http://www.twobits.com/coindblr.html Two Bit Score].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Coils===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WPC games use different flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application.  Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |WPC Flipper Coils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Color&lt;br /&gt;
!Strength&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11753 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weakest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11722 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weaker ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-20867 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#808080; background:#FFFF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; White &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || See notes || Used only in Safecracker&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11630 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Standard ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-15411 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FFA500&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Orange &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Stronger ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11629 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Strongest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Notes:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The FL-20867 flipper coil (white wrapper) was used only on Safecracker. The FL-20867 flipper coil is thought to be between an FL-11722 and an FL-11630 in strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams also produced an FL-17636 flipper coil (blue wrapper) for use in Star Trek: The Next Generation.  This coil is somewhat stronger than the FL-11629, and was used on the prototype games - and some number of production games - to facilitate shots to the Delta ramp.  At some point during the ST:TNG production run Williams switched back to FL-11629 coils, perhaps because the Delta ramp shot can be made with an FL-11629 coil with new condition flipper mechs, or due to operator reports of breakage.  Still, a large number of games seem to show up with FL-17636 coils, leading one to suspect operators may have swapped out the FL-11629 coils to the stronger FL-17636 coils as the flipper mechs wore.  (There is probably an increased chance of breaking playfield plastics and other parts with the FL-17636 coils in place.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelCoilWindings.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Note the windings of this typical WPC coil. The larger wire is the high power winding, the smaller wire is the hold winding. Both wires are soldered to the lug on the left.]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC Transformers===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Transformers&lt;br /&gt;
!| Part&amp;amp;nbsp;Number&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp; || Description&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp; || Distinguishing Features || Games&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12718-00 || WPC, 115/230v || (18VAC sound) alphanumeric || BoP, FH, HD &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00 || WPC3, 115/230v || (18VAC sound)  || BoP, BR, BSD, CFTBL, DW, FH, FT, GI, HD, HS2, Hot Shots Basketball, Hurricane, PZ, Slugfest, T2, TAF, TAFG, TZ, WH2O&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13491-00 || WPC Power || (12VAC sound) || IJ, JD, Pinball Circus, Popeye, STTNG&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00 || WPC94 || (female line input) || Corvette, DH, DM, FS, RS, Shadow, WCS&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00 || WPC Wide Mount || || AFM, Congo, I500, JB, JM, NF, SC, SS, ToM, TOTAN, WD&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-01 || WPC Wide Mount || || AFM, CC, CP, CV, Congo, I500, JB, JM, JY, MB, MM, NBA, NF, NGG, SC, SS, ToM, TotAN, WD&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-15930-00  || transformer p2000 || || RFM&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-15930-01  || transformer p2000 || || SWE1&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Primary Voltage Selection Jumpers at the Transformer====&lt;br /&gt;
On all WPC games, there are either a 9 pin or 12 pin Molex connector used to change the primary voltage setting fed to the transformer. 9 pin connectors were connected to a pigtail off the transformer itself.  Later units used a 12 pin connector on the power source metal box located inside the cabinet floor on the right just inside the coin door.  Depending on the placement of the jumpers, common configurations are 115v (typical domestic setting), 230v (European setting), and 100v (Japanese setting).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is common to change the voltage setting (220 to 120 volt conversion) if a game is re-imported back into the US. Although probably more common at the moment is to convert a domestic game to 220 volts (more games are currently being exported from the US than imported).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All voltage selection pins are .093 molex pins. Removal of the pins requires a special molex  tool. See [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Headers.2C_Housings.2C_and_Crimping &amp;quot;Headers, Housing, and Crimping].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Early WPC Transformers (9 pin connection)====&lt;br /&gt;
The 9 pin connectors used are Molex 19-09-2099 (butterfly connection w/jumpers) and Molex 19-09-1099 (connection on transformer pigtail).&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerSelectButterfly.jpg|200px|thumb|left|9 Pin WPC Transformer Power Configuration, configured for US 115V systems.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Jumper settings for 115V should be as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 1 - black - 115v &amp;quot;hot&amp;quot; input&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 7 - white - 115v &amp;quot;neutral&amp;quot; input&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 2 and 3 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 8 and 9 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:230VLineVoltageConfiguration.jpg|200px|thumb|left|9 Pin WPC Transformer Power Configuration, configured for 230V systems.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Jumper settings for 230V should be as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 1 - black - 230v &amp;quot;hot&amp;quot; input&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 7 - white - 230v &amp;quot;neutral&amp;quot; input&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 3 and 9 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Later WPC Transformers (12 pin connection)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Plug2.JPG|200px|thumb|left|12 Pin WPC Transformer Power Configuration, configured for US 120V systems]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Plug1.JPG|200px|thumb|right|12 Pin Connector as Found inside later games]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Jumper settings for 120v should be as follows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1 and 11 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 2 and 3 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 7 and 10 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 8 and 9 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 pin connector used is Molex 19-09-1129.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCEuropeanPowerSelectSascha12Pin.jpg|200px|thumb|left|12 Pin WPC Transformer Power Configuration, configured for European 240V systems]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Jumper settings for 240V should be as follows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1 and 11 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 7 and 10 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 3 and 9 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Jumpers, RAM and ROM size ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC089Jumpers.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of WPC-089 MPU that uses a 6264 RAM and a 4M game ROM. Note jumpers W1, and W2 to set ROM size as well as W3 (out) and R93 (in) to set RAM size.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC089MPUwith62256RAM.jpg|300px|thumb|Right|Closeup of WPC-089 MPU that uses a 62256 RAM and a 4M game ROM. Note jumpers W1, and W2 to set ROM size as well as W3 (in) and R93 (out) to set RAM size.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;RAM Size&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-089 MPU can be configured for two different RAM sizes. This is done with jumper W3 and resistor R93 as shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
*6264 RAM - W3 out, R93 in (a 1.5K 1/4W resistor)&lt;br /&gt;
*62256 RAM - W3 in, R93 out&lt;br /&gt;
Both RAM sizes work fine in all games. Williams probably provided this flexibility to allow use of whichever RAM was cheaper or more available. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Most NVRAM replacements are 6264 replacements.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC95RAMSizeJumper.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of WPC-95 MPU that uses a 62256 RAM. Note jumper W3 is installed to set the RAM size for a 62256 RAM.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 MPU can be configured for two different RAM sizes. This is done with jumper W3 (only) as shown below. R93 is always installed.&lt;br /&gt;
*6264 RAM - W3 out&lt;br /&gt;
*62256 RAM - W3 in&lt;br /&gt;
Again, both RAM sizes work fine in all games and most NVRAM replacements are 6264 replacements.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;ROM Size&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU can also (and needs to be) jumpered for different ROM sizes. This becomes important when upgrading ROMs or swapping a CPU (and ROM) into a different game. Games like Funhouse shipped with a 1M ROM, jumper W2 in, and jumper W1 out. Updating the Funhouse ROM to a larger size ROM requires W1 in and W2 out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The official Williams ROM size/jumper settings are shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
* 512K/1M - W1 out, W2 in&lt;br /&gt;
* 2M/4M - W1 in, W2 out&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Test ROMs===&lt;br /&gt;
Test ROMs are available from [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/testroms.html Planetary Pinball], but they should only be used in conjunction with a [http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/board-rework-test/243-building-a-wpc-test-fixture test fixture] and not installed in an actual game, as per the official recommendation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Country DIP Switch (or jumper) Settings ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCCountryCodeJumperMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Country Code Jumper message.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The message shown at left occurs sometimes when the game software seems to want the &amp;quot;country code&amp;quot; jumpers to be configured in a certain way. The simple solution (for English speaking users) is to remove the jumpers noted in the message by cutting them off. This sets the board to &amp;quot;AMERICA2&amp;quot;. Twilight Zone, and perhaps game ROM version 9.4H, seem to prefer the &amp;quot;AMERICA2&amp;quot; country code. Other country code jumper configurations are shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCCountryCodeJumpersExample.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Two WPC-089 MPUs, one configured with DIP switches, the other with &amp;quot;zero ohm resistors&amp;quot; (jumpers).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Two WPC-089 MPUs are shown at left. Early versions of the MPU used &amp;quot;zero ohm resistors&amp;quot; or jumpers to figure the country code. Later versions of the MPU (as well as WPC-S and WPC-95 MPUs, used DIP switches.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If a dip switch is installed, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;always leave W11 and W12 in the OFF position&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. If both are set on ON, the undervoltage detection circuit on the WPC Power/Driver will not work and both LED2 and LED3 will always remain on.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCCountryCodeJumperTable.jpg|400px|thumb|left|WPC-089 Country Code Jumper Table]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The complete WPC-089 country code jumper table is shown at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95CountryCodeJumperTable.jpg|400px|thumb|left|WPC-S/WPC-95 Country Code Jumper Table]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The complete WPC-S/WPC-95 country code jumper table is shown at left. WPC-S/WPC-95 MPUs do not have an &amp;quot;AMERICA2&amp;quot; configuration.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power-On LEDs and Sound Tones (Bongs)===&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is booted, several LEDs in the backbox will light, and the game may provide sound &amp;quot;bongs&amp;quot; to indicate diagnostic status.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A properly booting WPC game will show a &amp;quot;progress bar&amp;quot; on the DMD along with a &amp;quot;ticking&amp;quot; sound which results from a series of reset signals being sent to the sound board. After a successful boot, the sound board will create a single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; tone.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== LEDs on the MPU ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: WPC and WPC-S games label the MPU and Power/Driver board LEDs as &amp;quot;Dxx&amp;quot;. WPC-95 games label these same LEDs &amp;quot;LEDxxx&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
*D19 (LED201) - &amp;quot;Blanking&amp;quot;. This LED should light when power is applied, then after about 1 second, go off and stay off. If D19 remains on, this is an indication that the blanking circuit is turned on which prevents the game from powering coils. The blanking circuit was implemented to eliminate the possibility of damaging the game due to locked on coils when the CPU isn&#039;t operating properly.&lt;br /&gt;
*D20 (LED203) - &amp;quot;Diagnostics&amp;quot;. Once the blanking LED turns off, this LED should begin blinking and remain blinking as long as the game is turned on. This LED is a simple &amp;quot;I&#039;m working&amp;quot; indication from the MPU. This LED is toggled from pin 35 of the ASIC (DLED signal). D20 will also indicate basic issues with the MPU by blinking as such...&lt;br /&gt;
**One blink - problem with the game ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
**Two blinks - problem with the game RAM (or accessing the RAM, i.e. open traces).&lt;br /&gt;
**Three blinks - problem with the ASIC (WPC) or a problem with the security chip (WPC-S and WPC-95).&lt;br /&gt;
*D21 (LED202) - &amp;quot;5VDC present&amp;quot;. This LED provides a simple indication of the presence of 5VDC. This LED isn&#039;t CPU controlled. It&#039;s illuminated by a simple 5VDC connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCLEDBehavior.jpg|800px|thumb|left|&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Graphic provided by Ingo Kramer. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCLEDBehaviorUpdated.gif|800px|thumb|left|&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Graphic provided by Sascha Voksuil. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== LEDs and test points on WPC-089 Power/Driver Boards ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;LED/Test Point&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Explanation&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED1-TP3&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of regulated 12VDC (12VR). AC voltage is rectified to about 18VDC by BR1 and smoothed by C6 and C7 (this power is tapped for the lamp matrix). D1 and D2 are used to drop the voltage by 1.0 to 1.4V and then the voltage is further regulated down by the LM7812 at Q2. This 12VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+12V Digital&amp;quot; on the schematics. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F114.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED6 isn&#039;t lit, LED1 won&#039;t be lit either.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED2-no TP&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || If installed, provides an indication of high/low line voltage. This LED isn&#039;t very useful as it will flicker as power consumption by the game fluctuates.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED3-no&amp;amp;nbsp;TP&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || If installed, provides an indication of high/low line voltage. This LED isn&#039;t very useful as it will flicker as power consumption by the game fluctuates. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED4-TP2&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of regulated 5VDC. AC voltage is rectified by BR2 and smoothed by C5. The voltage is regulated down by the LM323K at Q1. This 5VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+5V Digital&amp;quot; on the schematics. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F113.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED5-TP7&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of unregulated 20VDC. AC voltage is rectified by BR4 and smoothed by C11. The voltage is used to power the flash lamps. Note that beginning sometime during production of Twilight Zone in 1993, a &amp;quot;coin door interlock&amp;quot; switch was added. This switch interrupts power to both the 20VDC and 50VDC circuits when the coin door is opened, providing a measure of safety against higher voltage shocks. If the coin door is opened with power applied, this LED will fade to off. It will not light with the coin door open. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F111.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED6-TP8&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of unregulated 18VDC. AC voltage is rectified to about 18VDC by BR1 and smoothed by C6 and C7. This 18VDC power is used to power the lamp matrix lamps. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F114.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED7-TP1&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. AC voltage is rectified to about 12VDC by BR5 and smoothed by C30 to provide unregulated 12VDC power. This 12VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+12V Power&amp;quot; on the schematics. It is used to power motors, optos, and other game features that do not require a precise 12VDC. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F116.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;TP4&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Zero Cross. By using an oscilloscope, this test point allows testing of the &amp;quot;zero cross&amp;quot; circuitry. &amp;quot;Zero cross&amp;quot; is when the AC sine wave crosses through the zero voltage point relative to ground. Zero cross is important for the proper operation of the general illumination lamp circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;TP5&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ground&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. This test point stud may be used to measure all DC voltages against.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;TP6&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || 50VDC power. This test point will actually measure 70 - 75VDC, which is normal and expected. This power is used for all coils in the game including the flippers. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F112. Individual coil power circuits are fused by F101 thru F105&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. F112 protects both BR3 and the bridge rectifier circuit on the FlipTronic II board. Should F112 blow, remove J104 (or J105). Replace the fuse. Power on. If the fuse blows, BR3 has probably failed. If it holds, the bridge rectifier on the FlipTronics II board has probably failed.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC089 power summary.png|800px|thumb|center|Summary schematic of WPC-89 Power Driver board showing test LED&#039;s and test points. A PDF of this image can be viewed [[Media:WPC089 power summary.pdf|here]]]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== LEDs and test points on WPC-95 Power/Driver Boards ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;LED/Test Point&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Explanation&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED100-TP100&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of regulated 12VDC. AC voltage is rectified to about 18VDC by D11-D14 and smoothed by C11 and C12. D1 and D2 are used to drop the voltage by 1.0 to 1.4V and then the voltage is further regulated down by the LM7812 at Q2. This 12VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+12V Digital&amp;quot; on the schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED101-TP101&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of regulated 5VDC. AC voltage is rectified by D7-D10 and smoothed by C9. The voltage is regulated down by the LM317K at Q1. This 5VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+5V Digital&amp;quot; on the schematics. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED102-TP102&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of unregulated 18VDC. AC voltage is rectified to about 18VDC by D11-D14 and smoothed by C11 and C12. This 18VDC power is used to power the lamp matrix lamps, and is subsequently regulated to 12V for use in the switch matrix. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED103-TP103&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. AC voltage is rectified to about 12VDC by D3-D6 and smoothed by C8 to provide unregulated 12VDC power. This 12VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+12V unreg&amp;quot; on the schematics. It is used to power motors and other game features that do not require a precise 12VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED104-TP104&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of unregulated 20VDC. AC voltage is rectified by D15-D18 and smoothed by C10. The voltage is used to power the flash lamps. Note that a &amp;quot;coin door interlock&amp;quot; switch is present on all WPC-95 games. This switch interrupts power to both the 20VDC and 50VDC circuits when the coin door is opened, providing a measure of safety against higher voltage shocks. If the coin door is opened with power applied, this LED will fade to off. It will not light with the coin door open. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED105-TP105&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of unregulated 50VDC. This test point will actually measure 70 - 75VDC. This power is used for all coils in the game. AC voltage is rectified to about 75VDC by D19-D22 and smoothed somewhat by C22.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;TP106&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Zero Cross. By using an oscilloscope, this test point allows testing of the &amp;quot;zero cross&amp;quot; circuitry. &amp;quot;Zero cross&amp;quot; is when the AC sine wave crosses through the zero voltage point relative to ground. Zero cross is important for the proper operation of the general illumination lamp circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;TP107&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ground&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. This test point stud may be used to measure all DC voltages against.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC095 power summary.png|800px|thumb|center|Summary schematic of WPC-95 Power Driver board showing test LED&#039;s and test points. A PDF of this image can be viewed [[Media:WPC089 power summary.pdf|here]]]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Power on Sound Tones (Bongs) ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a successful boot, the game should make a single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; sound. The game provides a sound board problem indication with the following number of bongs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pre-DCS Sound Board Games.&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - U9 RAM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - U18 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - U15 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - U14 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DCS Sound Board Games.&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - U2 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - U3 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - U4 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - U5 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - U6 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - U7 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*8 - U8 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*9 - U9 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*Note - DCS sound board RAM failures are indicated by a message on the display, &amp;quot;U10-U12 RAM error&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Audio/Video Board Games (WPC-95).&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - S2 ROM failure. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Two bongs also occur if jumper W3 is IN, and the RAM size is 6264. If an NVRAM was just installed, check this jumper. See the section on [[Williams_WPC#Jumpers.2C_RAM_and_ROM_size | jumpers]].&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - S3 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - S4 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - S5 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - S6 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - S7 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*10 - U9, U10, or U11 RAM failure (see below)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95U9-U11Error.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC-95 boot time RAM error message, accompanied by 10 very annoying bongs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95U10U12Message.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-95 boot time RAM error message, accompanied by 10 very annoying bongs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A/V sound board RAM failures are indicated by a message on the display, either &amp;quot;U9-U11 RAM error&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;U10-U12 RAM error&amp;quot;. This is apparently game software dependent. A/V RAM are, in fact, U9-U11. Apparently, this message wasn&#039;t updated in the software with the introduction of the A/V board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Fuses===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fuses are used to protect the various game circuits when a problem arises and the circuit begins to draw more current than originally designed to draw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best way to test a fuse is to remove it from it&#039;s fuse holder and &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; it with a DMM set to continuity. This method will prevent false positives via &amp;quot;sneak circuits&amp;quot;. When removing fuses from a RottenDog aftermarket power/driver board should be done with extreme care as the fuse clips are easily bent and damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC/WPC-95 Fuse Tables====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCFuseList.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC Fuse Table from Twilight Zone.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95FuseList.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-95 Fuse Table from Monster Bash.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A typical WPC fuse table is shown at left, WPC-95 fuse table at right. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== F111 Blows, Testing BR4 With Board Still Installed====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingWPC-BR4-InSitu.gif|200px|thumb|left|Click this image for an animation showing how to test BR4 without removing the power/driver board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Animated gif provided by Sascha Voksuil, aka PinSider ZaZa. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Fuse F111 sits between the transformer secondary and BR4. BR4 recitifies AC power for the flash lamps. If BR4 failes shorted, F111 will blow, protecting the transformer secondary winding.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BR4 can be tested &amp;quot;in situ&amp;quot; using the method shown in the animated gif at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;This test requires a good fuse to be in place at F111 for the test to work properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing DC Voltages on the Power/Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video showing how to test each of the voltages on the WPC-089 Power/Driver board can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uz6bnFiCki0&amp;amp;lc=UgwKkBxANoJnz3Xjr3Z4AaABAg here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Removing or Installing the ASIC===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ASICRemovalTool.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Using a PLCC puller to properly remove the ASIC. Grip firmly, and &amp;quot;rock&amp;quot; the chip out gently.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should ASIC need to be removed from a WPC MPU, it is strongly advised that tthe proper tool is used, as shown at left. The tool is called a PLCC puller.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video showing the proper technique for removing the WPC ASIC can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKmlsTlagfg &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DamagedWPC-ASIC.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This ASIC was damaged by not using the proper removal tool.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCCrackedASICSocket.jpg|200px|thumb|right|This cracked ASIC socket caused intermittent operation of the game.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Using a jewelers screwdriver or other such tool can fracture the ASIC chip carrier socket as shown at right. Since these are 84 pins sockets, replacement is non-trivial. Using the incorrect tool may also irreparably damage the ASIC itself by permanently fracturing leg joints, as shown at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC89ASICOrientation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Correct orientation relative to the PLCC socket, shown here for a WPC-089 or WPC-S MPU board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The ASIC &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;must&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be oriented correctly when installed. Pin 1 of the ASIC is marked with a dot impression on the top of the chip. Pin 1 of the PLCC socket is marked with an arrow pointing to pin one. This is true for all versions of WPC MPUs. Orient the ASIC as shown in the picture at left relative to the arrow in the socket, center the chip over the socket, and press firmly on the chip center.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== WPC ASIC Pinout ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ASICIcon.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC ASIC pinout and board connections|link=https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:WPCASICPinOutRevisionA.pdf]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking on the thumbnail at left will open a .pdf file containing pin connections for the WPC (in work) and WPC-S MPUs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ASICPinOutSmall.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC ASIC pinout and board connections|link=https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/e/e1/WPCASICPinoutviaZaza.jpg]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking on the thumbnail at left will open a .pdf file containing a graphic image of the ASIC pinout, &#039;&#039;provided courtesy of Sascha Voskuil&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game blows power line circuit breaker immediately===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerBoxInside.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Underside of power box showing varistor and thermistor]]&lt;br /&gt;
Had a thunderstorm roll through or a power surge from the electric company recently?&lt;br /&gt;
The varistor in the power box may have done it&#039;s job protecting the rest of the game&#039;s circuitry from the possibly tremendous power surge.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Signs of a failed varistor are typically black, charred discoloration throughout the &amp;quot;button&amp;quot; portion (green in the case of the adjacent picture) of the varistor.  Likewise, varistors can blow rather violently, and there may be charred or burnt remains in the area surrounding the varistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over time, the rating of a varistor will lower, causing &amp;quot;occasional&amp;quot; blowing of the mains fuse. The varistor will visually appear to be OK. A good hint is how violently the fuse blows. Likely varistor problems will cause the fuse to totally obliterate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Varistors can be purchased from [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=76 Great Plains Electronics].  Order the 130V variant for 120VAC (typically games in the US), and the 275V variant for 240VAC (typcailly games in Europe).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Credit Dot===&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:Credit dot sttng.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Example credit dot on Star Trek The Next Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The credit dot is a decimal point (a single, lit pixel on the display), that appears after the number of credits or after the words free play on the DMD display on WPC games.  It is a quick indicator used to tell the operator or owner that there may be an issue with the game.  Most commonly, there is a switch or multiple switch problems with the game.  However, a credit dot will appear for other reasons, such as when the date and time are not set.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If, after 30 balls or 10 games, a particular switch hasn&#039;t registered, the credit dot is posted to alert the user to check the diagnostics.  Some high usage switches will trigger the alert earlier.  The credit dot may or may not indicate a real problem.  For the example shown in the pic, it&#039;s simply reporting a switch that is hard to hit in the game.  So, the credit dot is actually saying &amp;quot;Play Better&amp;quot;. :-)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Battery Issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC CPU Bat Damage.JPG|left|thumb|200px|An example of worse than usual battery damage]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3xAA battery pack from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of MPU boards. Simply removing the batteries is not an option with WPC games as a message stating &amp;quot;Factory Settings Restored&amp;quot; will be received when the game boots.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several options other than allowing the battery pack to remain on the MPU board.  Below are the two most common methods.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first, most common, and most economical option is to remotely locate the battery holder off the MPU board and somewhere below all other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board. Replace the batteries annually, dating them with a Sharpie. Connections are as follows. With the CPU oriented as it would be in the game, solder the red (positive) wire to the upper right battery pack position. Solder the black (negative) wire to the lower left battery pack position. Note: most battery packs do not come with wire leads long enough to allow the battery pack to rest in the backbox bottom. Lengthen the wires as necessary.  As can be viewed in the adjacent picture, a male / female .093&amp;quot; Molex connector was added to easily remove the battery pack from the MPU board should the need arise.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;WPC, WPC-S, and WPC-95 Remote Battery Holder Connections.&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WPC MPU Battery Relocate.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WPC-089&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WPC-SMPUBatteryConnections.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WPC-S&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WPC95RemoteBatteryHolder.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WPC-95&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing an external battery on a WPC-95 CPU using the Auxiliary Battery header (J213)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95AuxBatteryHeader.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Installed Remote Battery Connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95RemoteBatteryOption.jpg|200px|thumb|right|An alternate, but equivalent method. Positive and Negative are clearly labeled.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 CPU board has an unused external battery connector just above the battery holder. The connector is labeled J213 AUX BAT. The 4 pads can be seen in the above picture of the CPU with the old holder removed. Installing this 4-pin connector is a good and clean way to get the batteries off the board and prevent alkaline damage. The Molex part number for the C-Grid® SL™ 70543 4 pin connector is 70543-003 (Digikey WM4802-ND). Crimp pins for the female side are 16-02-1125 (WM2573-ND) and the housing is 50-57-9404 (WM2902-ND). The WPC-S CPU uses a 5 pin version of this connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Warning: Do not use both the internal and external connector at the same time. Doing so will likely damage the batteries. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Settings Not Held or Battery Depletes Rapidly====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC MPU D1 D2.JPG|left|thumb|200px|A WPC MPU board with D1 and D2 circled. D1 and D2 are in the identical location on the WPC-S MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-95MPUD1D2.jpg|right|thumb|200px|A WPC-95 MPU board with D1 and D2 shown in the middle of the picture, just below the battery holder]]&lt;br /&gt;
During the process of installing a remote battery holder, it is a good practice to check the diodes utilized in conjunction with the battery power.  Diode D2, a 1N4148, is used to keep the MPU board&#039;s logic power from charging the batteries in the battery pack.  Diode D1, a 1N5817, is used to keep the battery pack from powering the entire MPU board when the games&#039;s power is turned off.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*If D2 fails shorted, 5VDC power will be applied to the batteries while the game is turned on. The end result is batteries which die prematurely, possibly leak, and/or possibly explode (alkaline batteries do not like to be charged). &lt;br /&gt;
*If D2 fails open, the batteries will not power the static RAM, and the &amp;quot;FACTORY SETTINGS RESTORED&amp;quot; message will be displayed when the game boots. &lt;br /&gt;
*Should D1 fail, the batteries would more than likely just deplete prematurely.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingForPowerAtRAM.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Probing pin 28 of the WPC-95 MPU RAM IC for Vbb (battery backup power)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:6264RAMPinout.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Pinout of the 6264 RAM. Note Vcc, upper right, pin 28]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing to see if battery backup power is reaching the RAM with sufficient voltage is easy. &lt;br /&gt;
*Set your DMM to DC Voltage&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the black probe to game ground (in the picture at left, a clip lead is attached to the ground screw)&lt;br /&gt;
*Use the red lead to probe pin 28 of the RAM&lt;br /&gt;
Measuring in this way should yield over 3.5 VDC. If measuring shows 0 VDC, either the batteries are dead, or D2 has failed (see above).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ideally, this measurement should yield 1.5 VDC * 3 - .6 VDC = 3.9 VDC. This calculation represents the nominal voltage delivered by a single AA battery, times 3 (batteries), less a typical .6 VDC drop across diode D2. Remember that nominal voltage drop across a typical diode is .5 to .7 VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Replacing the CPU RAM with non-volatile RAM===&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCR93.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A WPC-089 MPU board with 6264 RAM, jumper W3 removed, and R93 in place.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A second option is to replace the 6264 static RAM with an NVRAM such as the RAMTRON FM1608 (or FM16W08) or the SIMTEK STK12C68. NVRAMs in the standard DIP package are becoming hard to find but several pinball parts vendors sell a nice 6264 replacement NVRAM based on these parts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This method requires desoldering the OEM RAM from the board, and installing a socket on the MPU. Using NVRAM also has the down-side of not maintaining the Real Time Clock. This is meaningless in some games. But some games use the Real Time Clock, like Twilight Zone which moves the playfield clock to the current time of day during attract mode, and Who?Dunnit which has a &amp;quot;Midnight Madness&amp;quot; feature. Note: the WPC MPU is designed to accept either a 6264 or a 62256 static RAM. See: [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Jumpers.2C_RAM_and_ROM_size Jumpers, RAM and ROM size] for a description of jumpers required when installing a new RAM or NVRAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCCorrosion.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A WPC-089 MPU board, after a couple hours of alkaline corrosion abatement.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:AlkalineCorrosionCleanupWithLampSocketCleaner.jpg|200px|right|thumb|Using a &amp;quot;lamp socket cleaning stick&amp;quot; for precision removal of alkaline corrosion. These can be acquired at The Pinball Resource.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Alkaline damage abatement on WPC MPUs is generally more difficult than Bally -17/-35 or Stern MPU-100/200 or Gottlieb System 80 MPUs. The traces on WPC MPUs are finer, and more abundant than on any of those boards. And, the &amp;quot;banks&amp;quot; of resistors and ceramic capacitors below the ULN-2803 and LM339s provide numerous hiding places for alkaline damage. The small traces under these components implement the switch matrix on the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If alkaline abatement is attempted, and if the ULN-2803 or LM339s are damaged, using any technique &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;other than&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; cutting them off the board, heating the alkaline damaged pads, and pulling the leftover legs out, WILL damage the board further. The alkaline adheres to the component legs and through-holes very strongly, making it near impossible to remove the component using typical desoldering tools, no matter how skilled the individual is.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As is normally done during this process, sand with fine grit sandpaper (or use an abrasive stick as shown on the right for precision work) until bare copper can be seen, treat the board with 50/50 white vinegar/water to neutralize the alkaline, then rinse thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol or other favorite cleaner. Re-tin the exposed traces.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Replacing an Alkaline Corroded LM339 on a WPC-089 MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM339-1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A corroded LM339&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM339-2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;After cutting one side off, then bending repeatedly to break the other side off&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM339-3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Socket installed. All done&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:RottenDogAlkalineCorrosion.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A Corroded WPC-089 Aftermarket RottenDog MPU board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog WPC-089 MPU board pictured at left is an extreme example of corrosion creep. Corrosion moved all the way up the remote battery holder wires and onto the MPU. Abating alkaline corrosion on RottenDog MPUs is particularly difficult as the traces and vias are very, very small.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;WPC-95 MPU Alkaline Corrosion Zone&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPC95MPUCorrosionAreaParts.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Part identification in the WPC-95 MPU corrosion zone.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams located the batteries for the WPC-95 MPU in an even worse location than on WPC-089 and WPC-S boards. With the batteries located above the ASIC socket, there is a substantial probability that severe damage could occur from leaky batteries. The usual alkaline abatement process should be followed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Key:&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Resistors - Blue&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Capacitors - Yellow&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Diodes - Red&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Integrated Circuits - Green&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Headers/Jumpers - Black&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that at least two revisions of the WPC-95 MPU board were produced, each with a slightly different part layout.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Slam Tilt ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCSlamTilt.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A WPC game (STTNG) that has been &amp;quot;slam tilted&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WPC games incorporate a slam tilt switch on the back side of the coin door. When closed, the game immediately stops, and the display fills with diagonal lines, as pictured at left. Note that this is not a power problem like a &amp;quot;game reset&amp;quot;, below.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Stuck Menu Settings (WPC-95)===&lt;br /&gt;
* Clear all the audits and reset to factory defaults. &lt;br /&gt;
* If using a battery for the RAM, remove/disconnect the batteries for a few minutes. Power up and check the settings to verify whether or not settings have become unstuck, then power off and reconnect the batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Stuck Language Setting (WPC-95)====&lt;br /&gt;
If the MPU is stuck on a language (such as Spanish) and it won&#039;t change no matter how many times a change is attempted in the settings menu, and one or both of the flipper optos are bad, be sure to first replace those flipper optos or opto boards before attempting to troubleshoot further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Otherwise:&lt;br /&gt;
* Be sure to check the DIP switch language settings and make sure they are set for the proper language.&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:Wpc95-dip-switch-language-chart.png|250px|thumb|left|DIP Switch language setting chart]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure there is continuity between points on the PCB through each switch.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the test menu, go to test T.15 &#039;Dip Switch Test&#039; to check that it matches what is actually set on the MPU dip switches.&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:Wpc95-dip-switch-test.jpg|250px|thumb|left|DIP Switch test]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* If the dip switches are not matching what is in the test, it&#039;s possible that the DIP switches are dirty and may need to be replaced, or there could be a problem with U11 (74LS240) or its corresponding connection points or traces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Power Problems with the RottenDog aftermarket power/driver board (fuse clips) ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:RottenDogFuseClips.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Fuse clips on a RottenDog WPC power/driver board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The fuse clips used on the popular RottenDog aftermarket power/driver boards are a bit brittle and do not snap back into position if too much bending force is applied to them, much like Data East power supply fuse clips. Once the fuse clip has been bent too much, it will not snap back into position to create a solid mechanical connection to the fuse. This can cause one of the various power voltages to be missing or intermittent.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
One of the more annoying faults exhibited by WPC machines is the chronic reset problem. The game will restart, often when both flippers are used at the same time. Note that game resets are a power issue. &amp;quot;Slam Tilts&amp;quot; are something completely different (see above).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several possible reasons for game resets. Before doing &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;any&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; work on the circuit boards, it is recommended that a number of much easier to fix, and just as probable root causes, be examined. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Possible causes are listed below, in the recommended order of examination. This order is a derived from a combination of &amp;quot;ease of examination&amp;quot; crossed with &amp;quot;probability of root cause&amp;quot;. The standard advice dispensed on RGP to change BR2 and C5 is often wrong and unnecessary. If BR2/C5 are changed out and the game no longer resets, some will conclude that, sure enough, BR2/C5 was the problem. What is being missed is that along with replacing those components, at the very least, the connectors on the board are being reseated, the solder on the cap and bridge is being reflowed, and the board ground to the backplane is perhaps better due to torquing the screws better. Any of these changes can improve voltage/current enough to reduce the frequency or eliminate resets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The &amp;quot;Replace BR2 and C5 Mantra&amp;quot; ====&lt;br /&gt;
And now, a word on the classic &amp;quot;BR2/C5 mantra&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A long time ago…in a pinball galaxy far, far away…a kindly fellow was playing a nice game of pinball, hitting all the shots, and earning multiball after multiball. Just as he was about to beat the game’s high score to date, the WPC game MPU reset. &amp;quot;Not-A-Finga&amp;quot; he yelled in some ancient, dead, language. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A visitor from the neighboring planetary system noted that, &amp;quot;I once fixed that by replacing BR2 and C5&amp;quot;. And lo, the mantra was born.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, through advances in both our knowledge of these game systems, and the application of clearer thinking, we’ve come to realize that leaping to the “solution” of replacing components before doing real testing is not advisable. Most pinball owners do not possess the skill, experience, and tools that would allow them to work on circuit boards without damaging an expensive, and sometimes irreplaceable board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Still, with regular frequency, a post will be read on RGP or PinSide that goes something like this…&amp;quot;My game was resetting so I replaced BR2 and C5 and the resets vanished.&amp;quot; This logical construct is known as [https://www.logicalfallacies.info/presumption/post-hoc/ &amp;quot;Post hoc, ergo propter hoc&amp;quot;] (after this, therefore because of this), an insidious logical fallacy that states &amp;quot;Since that event followed this one, then that event must have been caused by this one&amp;quot;. Clearly, this is an invalid assumption. The fallacy lies in coming to a conclusion based solely on the order of events, rather than taking into account other factors that might rule out the connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In reality of course, when components are removed and replaced on a circuit board, the attendant &amp;quot;changes&amp;quot; to the state of the game system include…&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# reseating connectors and possibly improving electrical conductivity&lt;br /&gt;
# possibly changing the connectivity through fractured solder joints which may be flexed differently&lt;br /&gt;
# reseating the entire board in the backbox and possibly improving ground for the board&lt;br /&gt;
# reflowing solder joints on both components possibly improving electrical conductivity&lt;br /&gt;
# possibly improving heat dissipation from the bridge to the heat sink by replacing thermal grease&lt;br /&gt;
# perhaps an air conditioner, refrigerator, or heater has shut off thereby increasing available electrical current&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So please, hold off on heating up the soldering iron until methodically working through the disciplined process in the following section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== WPC 5VDC Power Derivation Path ====&lt;br /&gt;
Following is the nominal path from the wall plug to eventual consumers of the clean 5VDC power supplied by the Power/Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCPowerSelectButterfly.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC Transformer Power Configuration Plug, configured for US 120V systems.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#120VAC/60Hz power is nominally provided at the wall plug. Different voltages are accommodated also (see below)&lt;br /&gt;
#An RFI (radio frequency interference) filter, which is seldom a contributor to game problems.&lt;br /&gt;
#Line power is connected to a service outlet sometimes incorporated into the metal &amp;quot;power box&amp;quot; and made available to the tech via a short, uniquely plugged, extension cord. Line power is wired in parallel and does not require the power switch to be in the ON position.&lt;br /&gt;
#Both sides of the AC power pass through the double pole/double throw (DPDT) game power switch&lt;br /&gt;
#The &amp;quot;black&amp;quot; side of the AC power passes through an 8A FB fuse housed in a bayonet style (screw in) fuse enclosure.&lt;br /&gt;
#The &amp;quot;black&amp;quot; side of the AC power then passes through the thermistor, which limits current inrush into the system.&lt;br /&gt;
#&amp;quot;Butterfly&amp;quot; voltage select connector used to accommodate typical voltage systems used around the world (120VAC in US, 230VAC abroad, low line voltage, etc). When configured for 120VAC in the US, the connector and wiring resemble a butterfly. &lt;br /&gt;
#Transformer Primary windings&lt;br /&gt;
#Transformer Secondary windings&lt;br /&gt;
#Yet another Molex connector, mating with the harness that will eventually lead to the Power/Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Some games incorporate a &amp;quot;coin door interlock switch&amp;quot; which interrupts coil and flasher power when the coin door is open. If the game is equipped with this switch, there will be an extra Molex connector necessary to implement this switch.&lt;br /&gt;
#J101 on the Power/Driver board (WPC-95: J129)&lt;br /&gt;
#Full Wave AC rectification and smoothing via BR2 and C5 (WPC-95: D7 through D10 and C9)&lt;br /&gt;
#Regulation to 5VDC via the LM323K at Q1 (WPC-95: LM317 at Q1))&lt;br /&gt;
#Lighting LED4... (WPC-95: LED101)&lt;br /&gt;
#And finally, delivery to 5VDC power consumers via J114, J116, J117, and J118 (WPC-95: J101, J138, J140, and J141)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPC95LM317VoltageAdjustResistors.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC-95 Voltage Adjust resistors R1 and R1]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the LM317 is an adjustable voltage regulator where the LM323K is a 5V specific regulator. The LM317 is &amp;quot;programmed&amp;quot; to 5.108V using precision resistors R1 (750 ohms) and R2 (243 ohms), located just to the right of the LM317 heat sink. It is possible, although not advised, to adjust the output of the LM317 regulator to something other than the nominal 5.108 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Possibly Skip Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
If the game is resetting &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;only&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; within the first minute or two, and plays fine after that, skip to [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Failed_Thermistor Step 8, Failed Thermistor]. If the thermistor turns out to not be the cause, return to step 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The &amp;quot;Quick&amp;quot; but Temporary &amp;quot;Fix&amp;quot; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCJ101InSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Connector J101 In-Situ (bottom of picture)]]&lt;br /&gt;
A quick but temporary fix might be to reseat (remove and then reinstall) J101 and J114 on the Power/Driver board and J210 on the MPU board several times. This might help in two ways. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, the tarnish that builds up on the male/female connections might be removed slightly. This might be enough to return your game to service quickly. But this is not a long term repair. The proper repair is to repin both the male and female sides of the connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Second, the physical point where the male/female pins meet becomes &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; over time. That is, the pins develop micro-divots or irregularities that detract from a perfect connection. Reseating the connection may smooth out the defects that have formed and also might move the physical point of contact to a different part of the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, reseating these connectors is a temporary fix that might work for a day, a week, or a month.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Low Line Voltage ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 1: measure line voltage&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:TestingLinePower.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Measure line power at the wall plug that the game is plugged into (not on the bench, as shown here). Almost 118VAC...Nice...]]&lt;br /&gt;
Low line voltage can occur for several different reasons...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Peak summer usage may cause a drop in line voltage (at the wall). Nominal voltage should be 115VAC minimum.&lt;br /&gt;
*Too many games or &amp;quot;power hungry&amp;quot; devices on the same circuit. This is common when numerous devices are plugged into a power strip.&lt;br /&gt;
*Game(s) plugged into an extension cord or power strip with too small of wire gauge. If the game is plugged into an extension cord, make sure that it carries all three conductors and is constructed of &#039;&#039;&#039;at least&#039;&#039;&#039; 16 gauge wire, or specified as 16/3. Using a beefier 14/3 extension cord is better, and advised if more than one game is plugged into the cord.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the machine is resetting, open the coin door and measure the AC voltage at the auxiliary socket with the machine turned off, and then with the machine turned on. If the voltage at the auxiliary socket is over 105VAC, the problem is most likely inside the game. If the voltage is below 105VAC, there is a line voltage problem and the local electricity company&#039;s help will be needed to correct the problem.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Poor Ground Connection for Power/Driver Board ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 2: Make sure the power/driver board is screwed down tightly&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:PoorWPCDriverBoardConnection.jpg|200px|thumb|left|As my friends in Texas might say, &amp;quot;that dog won&#039;t hunt&amp;quot;. All backbox boards must be securely screwed down.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A poor ground connection from the power/driver board to the backbox ground plane can reduce 5VDC by as much as .3 volts. Ensure that the screws that hold the power/driver board down, secure it tightly.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cracked Power or Ground Header Pins and Cracked Solder Joints at the 5V Fuse ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 3: Examine the header pins at J101, J102, and J103 as well as at the LM323K regulator (WPC-95: J136 and J137)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCGroundHeaders.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Cracked header pin solder joints at J103 in a Twilight Zone, causing game resets.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Similar to step 2 above, cracked header pins where the power enters the board or at the ground connections on the board can cause game resets. In the picture at left, cracked header pins at J103 (ground) in a Twilight Zone caused game resets. Either reflow the solder, or better yet, replace the headers with new pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:FracturedSolderJointLM323K.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Fractured solder joints at the LM323K 5V regulator (WPC-95: LM317), causing game resets.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another place to examine for fractured solder joints is on the solder side of the board, where the LM323K (WPC-95: LM317) 5VDC regulator is placed. This area is subjected to very high temperatures that sometimes causes the solder to crystallize. If the solder joint is in any way suspect, remove the old solder and reflow new solder on the joint. Ensure that a nice solder &amp;quot;meniscus&amp;quot; is created (a volcano shaped solder joint) versus a &amp;quot;doughnut&amp;quot; around the wire lead.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:F113CrackedSolderJoint.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Fractured solder joints at fuse F113.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Fuse F113 (WPC-95: F105) fuses the 5V power for the game. Fractured solder joints here may cause the DMM to read near 5V, yet the joint doesn&#039;t allow enough current to pass. This can cause game resets and even cause the game to not boot. Reflowing the solder at these joints is prudent.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Missing diodes, open diodes, or cold solder joints at the Flipper coils ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 4: Examine flipper coil diodes&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelCoilWindings.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Example flipper coil diodes shown on a FL-15411 flipper coil.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WPC flippers are, in general, the only coils in the game that should have diodes across the coil lugs. While diodes seldom fail, sometimes the pounding environment that flipper diodes must live within causes solder joints to fail. Ensure that each flipper coil has the required two diodes, that the diodes are good, and that they are soldered to the coil lugs with a quality solder joint.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Poor Connections between the Transformer Secondary and the Power/Driver Board ====&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 5: Examine the &amp;quot;cube shaped&amp;quot; molex connector in the cabinet&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCTransformerSecondaryConnection.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The 15-pin Molex &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; connector. The red wires carrying 9VAC to the Power/Driver board can be seen here.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The connections from the transformer secondary to the Power/Driver board can degrade over time, a natural result of hours and hours of &amp;quot;power on&amp;quot; time. Try re-seating each connector. If the reset frequency is reduced or disappears, then the root cause has probably discovered. These connectors should be repinned at a minimum with at least new pins (the connector housings may be salvageable) for a long term solution.  It is especially important to re-pin the red 9VAC wires that carry power to the Power/Driver board as this is converted to the 5VDC logic voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: the molex pin extractor for these &amp;quot;round&amp;quot; pins is relatively expensive but there is no other good way to remove the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Poor Connection at J101 on the Power/Driver Board ====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Step 5.5: Examine both male and female connectors at J101 (WPC-95: J129)&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCJ101InSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Connector J101 In-Situ (bottom of picture)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
J101 (WPC-95: J129) connects the transformer secondary supply of both 9VAC (solid colored red wires, ultimately used to create 5VDC power) and 13VAC to the power/driver board. This connector often becomes tarnished, increasing resistance and reducing the effectiveness of the circuit. Reseating the connector may temporarily reduce reset frequency. This is an indication that this connector should be repinned. As always, it&#039;s best to repin both the male and female connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Poor Connections between the Power/Driver board, the CPU, and other PCBs ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 6: Examine other wiring harnesses and the connectors&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCPickingUpGround.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A convenient location to find ground in a WPC backbox.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCTesting5VDCatTP2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Measuring DC voltage at the 5VDC test point, TP2.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Measure DC voltage at TP2 (WPC-95: TP101) on the Power/Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
#DMM set to DC volts (if not an auto-ranging meter, expect to measure 5VDC)&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead secured to game ground (the ground braid in the head is a good place to pick up ground)&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on TP2 (WPC-95: TP101). Remember the reading.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCTesting5VDCatGameROMPin32.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Measuring DC voltage at pin 32 of the game ROM]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Measure DC voltage at the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Again, DMM set to DC volts&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead in the same place&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on pin 32 of the game ROM, or on pin 2 (center pin) of the MC34064 under voltage watchdog at U10&lt;br /&gt;
#Record this reading&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Compare the two readings. ANY difference indicates voltage loss between J114 on the power/driver board and J210 on the MPU board. Some voltage loss is expected/natural since no circuit path can provide zero resistance. A difference of .1VDC is enough to warrant examination of the connectors between J114 (WPC-95: J105) on the Power/Driver board and J210 on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reseating the wire harness that connects the power-driver board to the CPU board may identify the root cause (but reseating is not a long term solution). &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCZConnector.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; connector, as used in Twilight Zone, etc.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCZConnectorHarness.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The entire harness containing the &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; connector in Twilight Zone can be removed from the game for easier repinning.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some games use an interceptor harness to power extra boards (IJ, TZ, WH20, STTNG, FT, etc). There is a inline splice connector (commonly called a Z-connector) between the driver board and the CPU board. The Z-connector can become loose and/or oxidized, contributing to a poor electrical connection between the female connectors. The Z-connector can be replaced with a new one, or more robustly, eliminated by splicing the wires together, soldering, and heat-shrinking. This entirely removes the Z-connector as a contributing factor to game resets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At least on Twilight Zone, the wire harness that contains the &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; connector can be removed from the game entirely, as shown at right. This harness has been repinned and the &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; connector eliminated.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:PoorIDCConnections.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A poorly &amp;quot;repunched&amp;quot; IDC connector. This connection was probably &amp;quot;punched&amp;quot; with a small flat-blade screwdriver. Note the bare wires where the insulation has been damaged. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some field techs will &amp;quot;repunch&amp;quot; IDC connectors in an attempt to make a better connection. Without the correct punch tool, sometimes an even worse connection is created, as pictured at left. If the decision is to use IDC connectors, at least use the correct tool to punch the wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCWornPowerConnectionJ210.jpg|200px|thumb|left|MPU connector J210. This connector has had the plating worn off right where the female connector mates with it. When mated with a worn female connector, increased resistance results in reduced voltage, causing resets and possibly failure to boot.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Tarnished, heat damaged, or damage to header pin plating creates resistance and can sometimes be a contributor to game resets. If the male header pins are tarnished, their female mates are probably tarnished also. If tarnished pins are found, now might be a good time to remove that aspect as a contributor to game resets. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If following this step-by-step process, now is the first time that a soldering/desoldering station will be needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replace the male header pins, remembering to clip the correct &amp;quot;key&amp;quot; pin before reinstalling the board into the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replace the female connector and pins with good quality Trifurcon crimp-on pins. IDC (Insulation Displacement Connectors) connectors as found originally on the game were used by the OEM to speed the manufacturing process and do not provide the level of robustness that can be achieved using Trifurcon crimp-on pins and good technique.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another possible contributor to poor power connections is cracked header pin solder joints. Although, with WPC double-sided PCBs and the relatively large header pin through-holes, this is rarely seen. Should you identify cracked header pin solder joints, it&#039;s best to remove as much of the old solder as possible before reflowing new solder at the joint.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be sure to check the power connections on the display as well. One documented repair involved a Funhouse with a reset issue. The game had a strong +5V signal on the MPU/CPU, a new BR2/C5 and digital voltage regulator. It would play perfectly until someone nudged the machine causing it to reset. During troubleshooting, it was noted that the game would reset (even in attract mode) when the display was lifted out of the backbox or placed back in it. It was then observed that the 2 wire/3 pin power connector had a loose IDC connection. The ground short through vibration was resetting the CPU! Repinning both the male and female ends of this connector with a proper molex housing resolved the issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a Multimeter to Test the Bridge Rectifier and Capacitors ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 7: Bridges and Caps in circuit&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCTestingBR2RectifiedDCVoltage.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Measuring &amp;quot;un-smoothed&amp;quot; DC voltage output from BR2. The voltage is smoothed later by C5. This bridge is functioning properly.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s one last test we can do before disassembling parts of the machine. This test can clearly identify a bad bridge rectifier or capacitor. You will need a clip lead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#With the machine off, clip the lead onto the top left lead (positive) of BR2. You will have to do this by feel, as you cannot see the lead. This clip point is the output of the bridge rectifier, and is connected to the smoothing (filter) capacitor and LM323K regulator input. It should be at 9V DC. &lt;br /&gt;
#Next, place the other clip on the red (+) lead of your meter.&lt;br /&gt;
#Connect the black lead to ground by tucking it under the braid. Check your installation to make sure that nothing is shorting.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Set your meter to DC volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn on the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The meter should read about 9V. This will be true whether C4/C5 are working or not. If the bridge rectifier is bad, it will read about 7V. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the capacitor, turn your meter to AC volts. Note that inexpensive meters may give false readings here. Ideally, your meter should be a true RMS meter. Good capacitors will read about 300mV AC. Bad capacitors will read up to 2VAC. Anything over 1VAC indicates a failed/failing filter capacitor at C5 which should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Failed Thermistor ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 8: Examine the Thermistor&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCPowerBoxInside.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A look inside a typical WPC power box. This particular box was from a Fish Tales. The Thermistor is grey, the varistor is green.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The thermistor is (generally) a black or grey disk, about the size of a dime. It is located inside the power box which is found just inside the coin door and to the right. If your game has one (and not all WPC games do), it will be connected in series between the power box fuse and the black side of AC power. Note that the power box may also contain a &amp;quot;varistor&amp;quot;, or MOV, which is essentially a surge protector. The varistor will be wired in parallel with (across) the AC power. The varistor is not a factor in game resets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thermistor&#039;s job is to limit current inrush into the capacitors when the game is first powered on. This reduces stress on the bridge rectifiers or diodes in the game&#039;s power circuits (which is the primary cause of bridge rectifier failures). After a few seconds, the thermistor heats up and drops to a very low resistance. Failing thermistors pass less current and have to get hotter to work. This heating takes time, so the game will often reset in the first 30 minutes of operation, and then be fine afterwards. Obviously, a cold environment will make the symptoms worse, and a warm room may appear to cure the problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resetting while the game warms up is therefore a key indicator of a failing thermistor. Note also that DCS and WPC-95 A/V boards may reset independent of the MPU. If this is the case, you&#039;ll hear the characteristic same &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; as when the game boots.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;***Safety Warning***&#039;&#039;&#039; Unplug the game &#039;&#039;&#039;AND&#039;&#039;&#039; turn the game off before conducting the following test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, the thermistor may be visibly damaged. However, it may look good and still be bad. An easy test of the thermistor is to jumper across the legs of the thermistor with a heavy gauge wire. If the game resets no longer occur, replace the thermistor with the correctly rated part. The original Williams part number is 5016-12978-00. A replacement is available from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=5016-12978-00 Great Plains Electronics].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While you have the box open try wiggling the connectors (the game &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;IS&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; unplugged!) you probably will find at least one that is loose  - this can contribute to reset issues. The fix is to solder all the crimp quick connect ([http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:DSCF0810.JPG examples on coil]) wires to the pins they were connected to in the box: cut the quick connects off, one at a time, and then solder the wires directly. Insulate the connections with Heat-Shrink or a good grade of electrical tape.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Questionable Prior Rework ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 9: Examine prior rework&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printed circuit boards used in pinball machines sometimes have traces on both sides of the board. Most WPC boards are manufactured in this way. The traces are joined through the board by a thin layer of copper, plated to the inside of the hole. This plating is delicate. Without great care, the plating can pull out or crack when components are removed, especially alkaline damaged components as found on MPU boards (after batteries have leaked) and &amp;quot;snap caps&amp;quot; as found on OEM WPC Power/Driver boards (at C5 for instance). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Extreme care as well as good technique must be exercised when removing these components as it is very easy to lift traces or damage through-holes on the board. If the component is known to be bad, it is sometimes easier to snip the component from the board with a flush cutter and remove each leg of the component individually. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An excellent way to repair a lifted trace or cracked through-hole is to create a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 solder stitch] between the traces on each side of a two sided board. Some PCB repairmen will install jumpers as a &amp;quot;repair&amp;quot; for cracked through-holes or to &amp;quot;guarantee&amp;quot; connectivity between components. Some PCB repairmen will avoid the use of jumpers in favor of better looking rework.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Failed Capacitors ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 10: Power smoothing capacitors at end of life&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPC-C4InSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C4, shown &amp;quot;in-situ&amp;quot; on a typical WPC Power/Driver Board. A new C4 cap has been installed on this board (100µF/10V). Nice job by the installer orienting the cap so that its value is in easy view!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors do not last forever. They are designed to operate for about 1,000 hours at their full rating. Capacitor life is a function of temperature: the cooler the capacitor operates, the longer the life. The system designer must select higher voltage and capacitance ratings to achieve the design life, which can be as short as 5 years in a pinball machine operated continuously in a warm environment. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC Power/Driver board uses a 15,000µF, 25V capacitor at C5 to smooth the full wave rectified AC from BR2. When this capacitor is no longer smoothing the rectified AC well enough to produce a clean 5VDC, the voltage may drop below the threshold enforced by the watchdog circuit on the MPU (an MC34064 at U10). When this happens, resets sometimes result.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that commonly available replacement capacitors are rated to 35V, and will work fine for this application. In general, you may use a capacitor rated for higher operating voltages but the capacitance specification (µF, or micro-farads) should not be changed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
C4 (spec&#039;d at 100µF, 10V, axial) can sometimes fail and cause the game to reset also. If you&#039;ve gotten this far and are replacing C5, you might as well replace C4 too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:PulledThroughHole.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A good view of a 15,000uf cap, with a pulled through hole still on the left lead (the brown donut looking object)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:DomedFilterCap.jpg|200px|thumb|right|C5 (lower) and C11 (upper) on a WPC-089 power/driver board. C11 is clearly &amp;quot;domed&amp;quot;, a physical indication of it&#039;s failure.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Removing the big 15,000uf capacitors on a WPC-089 power/driver board is a bit tricky. More often than not, an amateur will damage the through hole that connects one side of the board to the other, either severing the connection completely, or badly enough to cause intermittent reset issues. Should the through hole be pulled, a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 solder stitch] needs to be installed, or &amp;quot;jumpers&amp;quot; need to be installed connecting the associated bridge rectifier to the capacitor. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Advice:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Without the experience, tools, and technique to accomplish this task, most hobbyists would be well advised to send the board to a pro for rehab.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Failed Bridge Rectifier ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 11: Test Bridge Rectifier #2 (BR2)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thermistor protects the bridge rectifiers from inrush current. Still, bridge rectifiers will occasionally fail. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Four Connections to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left illustrates the 4 readings to be taken when testing a bridge rectifier.&lt;br /&gt;
	 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Procedure:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
	 	&lt;br /&gt;
#Place your DMM into &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot;.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the &amp;quot;oddball&amp;quot; lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn&#039;t oriented the same as the others (as with the &amp;quot;spade&amp;quot; type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the &amp;quot;wire lead&amp;quot; type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge. 	&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge&#039;s internal diodes).&lt;br /&gt;
#Swap locations of the red and black leads. A reading of &amp;quot;null&amp;quot; should be seen.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the &amp;quot;oddball&amp;quot; lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge	&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.	&lt;br /&gt;
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen.&lt;br /&gt;
#Swap locations of the red and black leads. A reading of &amp;quot;null&amp;quot; should be seen.		&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit. This part of the bridge is good.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;	&lt;br /&gt;
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not &amp;quot;hard and fast&amp;quot;. For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; or a &amp;quot;short&amp;quot;. Note also that this test is not conducted &amp;quot;under load&amp;quot; and it is possible for the bridge to test &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc).	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Brdg 1and2 Removed2.JPG|160px|thumb|left|Applying heat transfer grease (heat sink compound) to the new bridge rectifiers.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Brdg 1and2 Removed3.JPG|200px|thumb|right|New bridge rectifiers screwed to heat sink before placing on driver board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should you decide to replace the bridge, it is best to screw the heat sink to the bridge before soldering it in place as the heat sink is shared between BR1 and BR2. A small amount of heat sink compound between the bridge and the heat sink is necessary. This compound improves conduction of the heat away from the bridge and into the sink.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some repair tips suggested cutting the heat sink in half, separating it into two parts, one part for each bridge. This technique is no longer considered to be a best practice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder both the top and bottom solder pads of the bridge. Should the through-hole of the bridge leads be cracked or otherwise damaged, use the &amp;quot;[http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 solder stitch]&amp;quot; technique noted above or install jumper wires between the DC outputs of the bridge and the terminals of C5. When clipping the leads of the wire bridge, do not cut into the solder &amp;quot;meniscus&amp;quot; (the &amp;quot;volcano&amp;quot; of solder around the wire lead). Cutting into the solder meniscus can cause cracked solder joints later.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Brdg 1and2 Removed.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Bridge rectifiers 1 and 2 removed elegantly with a desoldering iron.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Brdg 1and2 Reinstalled.JPG|160px|thumb|right|New bridge rectifiers installed, and replacement date noted.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With proper desoldering tools, like the Hakko 808 or Hakko 470D, removal of bridge rectifiers and other components is greatly simplified.  After replacement of bridge rectifiers is made, it&#039;s not a bad idea to mark the replacement date.  In doing this, you or anyone else will know when these were replaced, and more importantly that they were replaced.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Failed Voltage Regulator ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Step 11: When all else fails...&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The LM323K 5V regulator is a robust device, but it can drift over time to below the design requirement of 4.8VDC. If your 5VDC reads less than 4.8VDC at the test point, or less than 4.75V on the CPU board, you have to replace the regulator. Note that these voltages are compliant to the LM323K&#039;s spec. However, at the lower end of this spec, this lower voltage may be the cause of resets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EZ-SBC-PS5.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The EZ-SBC PSU5 modern adjustable switching voltage regulator]]&lt;br /&gt;
If you decide to replace the LM323K regulator you may wish to consider using an [http://www.ezsbc.com EZ-SBC PSU5] instead.  The PSU5 is a 5V 3A high-efficiency switch-mode regulator that is a direct replacement for the LM323K in terms of form factor and current capacity; it is superior to the LM323K due to its reduced power dissipation.  When using the PSU5 be sure to replace the KEPS nuts (nuts with captive lock washers) originally used to mount the LM323K with discrete #6 split lock washers and #6-32 hex nuts; the external tooth lock washer of the KEPS nut can contact one of the surface-mounted components on the PSU5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The EZ-SBC PSU5 has one side affect that may be annoying. At power off, instead of the customary &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot;, the speakers emit a loud volume &amp;quot;machine gun&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;fart&amp;quot; sound. While this might be unnerving, it is perfectly harmless.  An updated version of the PSU5, identified by a yellow solder mask, does not have this side effect at power off. It is otherwise identical to the original PSU5.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] An example of the sound can be heard [https://youtu.be/L4MDGddZanI?t=80 here] near the end of the video.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Failed Electrolytic Capacitor on the MPU ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 12: Failed C31 on the MPU&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FailedC31onWPCMPU.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C31 on the MPU. This Philips capacitor has most likely failed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
There is one more possibility. C31 acts as a filter on the WPC-089 MPU. It is a 100µF, 10V capacitor, connected between incoming 5VDC and ground. Williams used two primary suppliers for this capacitor, Philips and Illinois Capacitor. If the capacitor is grey with black markings and has the logo &amp;quot;iC&amp;quot; on it, then it is from Illinois Capacitor and is likely ok. However, if the capacitor is blue and shows the manufacturer as Philips, you should replace it as it is most likely bad. The small Philips capacitors in particular have shown an increasing failure rate as these machines get older. This does not only apply to their use on the CPU but anywhere else in the machine. Which means the same rule applies to C4 on the power driver board - if it&#039;s a Philips capacitor replace it. If it&#039;s an iC capacitor it is likely OK. If you have a spare CPU, swapping the suspect one with a known working CPU is a good diagnostic step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When replacing this capacitor it is best to use a 100uf 25v capacitor. You should note that by the time Williams got to the WPC-95 system, any place where they used to use a 100uf 10v filter capacitor they now had a 100uf 25v capacitor instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BSDcaprs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Failed C31 from a BSD CPU.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:FHcaprs.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Failed C31 from a Funhouse CPU.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Determining whether or not C31 has failed is a challenge without an ESR meter. A simple visual inspection will not indicate whether the part is good or bad. Here are two C31s, one from a Funhouse and one from a BSD. Both of these are bad. Both should have an ESR reading of less than 2 ohms and a capacitance reading, out of circuit, of 100uf if not slightly more. Both the boards these were installed in would boot successfully on the bench hooked up to a dedicated power supply. Without an ESR meter, one might think these capacitors were fine. In fact, if this was the only thing wrong in the machine on the 5v circuit, chances are the game would operate fine with these capacitors as-is. But if the game is resetting, it is probably best to replace C31. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The Absolute Last Resort ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 42: We really didn&#039;t want to get to this point!&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;There is a method of absolute last resort.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The LM323K is an adjustable linear regulator. However, Williams provided no means to adjust the output of the LM323K. As such, the LM323K will deliver a voltage anywhere within the spec range of the device. The spec output voltage range for the LM323K is 4.75 to 5.25 VDC. Some percentage of LM323Ks will fall into the lower range of that spec, which is at, or just above the trip point voltage of the MC34064 voltage watchdog on the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following procedure will increase the output voltage of the LM323K slightly. This procedure is not a substitute for addressing all of the considerations mentioned in previous steps, and should be used cautiously.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM323KHackComponentSide.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Ground Trace severed leading to C9.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The LM323K draws a small current to operate, which it passes to ground. We can use that current to raise the voltage of the whole LM323K, pushing the output closer to 5V.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Procedure:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Isolate the LM323K&#039;s metal case from board ground by cutting the ground traces that run left and right from the nut on the back of the board that bolts the LM323K to the board. The neater you make these cuts, the easier it to reverse this hack.&lt;br /&gt;
#Some versions of the Power/Driver board include a ground trace on the component side of the board that provides a ground to the tantalum capacitor at C9. This trace must be cut on the component side of the board. &lt;br /&gt;
#Add a 1/2W resistor in series, from the LM323K ground to the board&#039;s ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM323KHackSolderSide.jpg|thumb|200px|left|LM323K case isolated from ground, and a 25ohm resistor added. This raised the nominal voltage by .2VDC.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A 12 ohm resistor will nominally raise the LM323K voltage output by .1 VDC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A 24 ohm resistor will nominally raise the LM323K voltage output by .2 VDC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The Conductive Grease Hack ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[What is a &amp;quot;Hack&amp;quot;?]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some techs will recommend the use of conductive grease to improve conductivity at a connector. While some techs will &amp;quot;swear &#039;&#039;&#039;by&#039;&#039;&#039; the stuff&amp;quot;, other techs will &amp;quot;swear &#039;&#039;&#039;at&#039;&#039;&#039; the stuff&amp;quot;, and as such, this is not considered a best practice. The grease can extend the life of new header pins, and protect against hostile environments that would cause corrosion. However, when used on header pins that are already damaged, grease can only slow further deterioration. Worse, the heat in the connector will turn the grease to gunk. If you find a flaky connector with gunk in it, you&#039;ve been &amp;quot;greased&amp;quot; and you will want to re-pin it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Damaged/burnt connectors should always be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Electrical_Tools replaced].  [http://http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01903128&amp;amp;type=prod Dow Corning #4] grease can&#039;t help them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the other hand [http://http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01903128&amp;amp;type=prod DC#4] Electrical Insulating Compound Grease does a superior job reducing friction and corrosion on contacts and that would be considered a net benefit to any game. JRR&#039;s shop and others have also found a decrease in the temperature of power contacts using [http://http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01903128&amp;amp;type=prod DC#4] along with reduced resistance which should increase the life of the connector. This product is also good to use on EM pins for the interconnect plugs/sockets as it reduces friction and improves conductivity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that [http://http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01903128&amp;amp;type=prod DC#4] is stable from -57C to 204C (-70F to 399F). If your game has contacts at the high end of those temperatures then certainly, the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic_smoke smoke] would be getting out...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If other products are used, investigate carefully to ensure they are a proper dielectric grease suitable for high temperature applications.  There is a time and place to use this type of product, mostly as a preventative measure on newly replaced contact surfaces.  Applying it after the plating has burned off is a questionable practice and no substitute for proper connector replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Check fuses F114 and F115 message===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CheckFusesF114andF115.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Check Fuses F114 and F115 Message]]&lt;br /&gt;
This message is sometimes displayed when the game boots and a game cannot be started. Most of the time, F114/F115 will be found to be just fine. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The game issues this message because it cannot read the switch matrix normally. The crafty designers at Williams inserted an “always closed“ switch into the matrix as switch 24. Switch 24 isn’t a switch at all, but instead provides the game software with a “known closed” switch matrix return. Switch 24 is actually a diode across column 2, row 4 of the switch matrix and is located on the coin door interface board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the WPC switch matrix circuitry on the MPU uses 12V to determine switch state, the game assumes that the 12VDC power has been interrupted. F114/F115 fuse the 12V generation circuit; F114 on the AC side of BR1; F115 on the DC side of BR1. Hence, the game assumes that one of these fuses is blown and the message is displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Diagnosing the problem&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start by checking DC voltage at TP3. You should see about 12VDC. If not, follow these steps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Actually check fuses F114 and F115 using the procedure [[General#Testing_fuses| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]. If a blown fuse is found, replace it. If F114 immediately blows again, then BR1 is probably shorted. Skip to the paragraph below to test the bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
#Check LED6. If not lit (indicating the absence of 18V at TP8), then suspect BR1 or the filter caps for BR1, C6 and C7. If BR1 had failed shorted or if C6 or C7 where shorted (rare) then you would expect to see F114 blown. BR1 can be tested using the procedure below.&lt;br /&gt;
#Check LED1. If not lit (indicating the absence of “digital” 12V at TP3, then test D1 and D2 (both 1N4004 diodes that can be tested with the game off or board removed using the standard &amp;quot;diode check&amp;quot; on your DMM). &lt;br /&gt;
#If D1/D2 test good, then check continuity from pin 2 of the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2 to J114, pin 5. This verifies the path to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
#Next, check continuity from pin 3 of the 7812 to J114, pin 2. This verifies the path through F115 to the 12V power header at J114.&lt;br /&gt;
#If this all checks out, yet 12VDC is still not at TP3, then suspect the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2. Q2 is in a TO-220 package (like a TIP-102) and has a small heat sink attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Alternate Problem Determination Method: Test Power Across the Driver Board&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC12VRegulatedCircuit.png|center|(The regulated 12VDC circuit, diagram by by Sascha Voksuil aka Zaza)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The diagram above shows the simple path for the 12VDC power regulation circuit. Power may be tested across the circuit, as follows.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on.&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your meter to DC volts. If your meter isn&#039;t an auto-ranging meter, expect to see less than 20VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to game ground, or tuck it under the backbox ground braid.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe TP8 with the red lead of your DMM. It should measure about 18VDC. If not, suspect F114.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the banded side of D1. It should measure about 18 minus .5 to .7 volts, (the typical voltage drop across this kind of diode), or about 17.4VDC. If not, suspect D1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the banded side of D2. It should measure about 17.4 minus .5 to .7 volts (again), or about 16.8VDC. If not, suspect D2.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the top leg of the 7812. It should measure about 16.8V. If not, suspect the trace between D2 and the 7812 or a fractured solder joint at the 7812.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the bottom leg of the 7812. It should measure about 12VDC since the job of this regulator is to produce 12VDC. If not, suspect the 7812 regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the right side of fuse F115. It should measure about 12VDC. If not, suspect the trace between the lower leg of the 7812 and fuse F115. In particular, suspect that C2 has leaked and corroded the trace carrying the 12VDC. See: &amp;quot;Leaky Capacitor C2 corrodes trace&amp;quot;, below.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the left side of fuse F115. Again it should measure about 12VDC. If not, suspect F115 is blown or the fuse block has a poor mechanical connection to the fuse or to the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
#Finally, probe pin 2 of J114. It should read about 12VDC. If not, suspect the trace from fuse F115, the connection of the F115 fuse block to the PCB, or a fractured pin at J114.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only circuit path remaining to test is the path to the ground pin of J114 (pins 5 and 7) from the 7812. This is easily accomplished with power off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to continuity and &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between the tab of the 7812 to J114, pin 5 and 7. If no continuity, suspect a fractured solder joint at the center pin of the 7812, or corrosion under C2 that has compromised the trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Short on the MPU causing F115 to blow&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is one more way for the 12VDC power to be lost and for F115 to blow. A shorted IC on the MPU that uses 12VDC can cause F115 to blow. To help isolate the problem to the MPU, replace F115, disconnect power going to the MPU at J210, and turn power to the game on. If the fuse does not blow, the problem is almost definitely on the MPU board. Any of the LM339s (theoretically) or the ULN2803 (definitely) can fail and short 12V to ground, causing F115 to blow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Leaky Capacitor C2 corrodes trace&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCFailed12VRCircuit.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Filter capacitor C2 (removed), leaking it&#039;s corrosive electrolytic contents, eating through traces]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC12VFilterCapLeakDamage.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Filter capacitor C2 (removed), showing damage caused by a leaky cap.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Yet one more way for the 12VDC regulated power to be lost is shown in the picture at left. In the picture, the electrolytic cap at C2 has failed and leaked corrosive electrolytic contents onto the board. The lower trace from Q2 (7812 voltage regulator) to C2 (+ side), that goes on to connect to F115 on the solder side of the board, has been eaten away, no longer providing a path for the regulated 12VDC power. Corrective action here is the same as alkaline damage abatement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Shown on the right is another shot of the damage caused by a leaky cap at C2. This one resulted in reducing the 12V power to about half of spec.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC12VCorrosion.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Corroded parts in the 12V/Zero Cross circuitry]]&lt;br /&gt;
The corrosion resulting from a leaky cap at C2 can be quite extensive. Often, the parts immediately left of C2 are damaged and must be replaced. The part list is as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*R206 - 27K ohm&lt;br /&gt;
*R198 - 10K ohm&lt;br /&gt;
*R199 - 1K ohm&lt;br /&gt;
*C1 &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;- .001uf ceramic (or 1000pf, marked 102)&lt;br /&gt;
*R204 - 270 ohm&lt;br /&gt;
*C12 &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;- .001uf ceramic (or 1000pf, marked 102)&lt;br /&gt;
*R205 - 270 ohm&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If TP3 does, in fact, have 12VDC present, then we need to dig deeper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#First check for 12VDC on the CPU board to ensure that the 12V is getting to the board via the 2 (and possibly 4 if your game has a “Z-Connector”) connectors that carry the 12VDC. An easy place to measure 12VDC on the CPU is at pin 10 of the ULN2803 (U20). Pin 10 is on the bottom row of pins, furthest left. Note that this connection (and also the 12VDC connection to pin 3 of the LM339s) is not shown on the schematic.&lt;br /&gt;
#If the CPU is receiving 12VDC, and you still have the “Check fuses F114 and F115” message, then the problem lies within the CPUs switch matrix logic circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
#Prime candidates for CPU switch matrix failure are U20 (a ULN2803), the two LM339s at U18 and U19, the 74LS374 at U14, and the 74LS240 at U13. All of these ICs are in the “corrosion zone” caused by leaky alkaline batteries. If your CPU exhibits the “blue/green fuzzies”, address the alkaline damage first.&lt;br /&gt;
#Testing the 74LSXXX ICs is simple using the procedure [[General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
#If coil power, flasher power, or even lamp power was somehow shorted to the switch matrix, there is a near 100% probability that the ULN2803 at U20 has been damaged. There is no good way to test the ULN2803 other than using a logic probe with the game powered on. Both the input side and the output side of the ULN2803 should be toggling between logic 0 and logic 1. If not, socket and replace the ULN2803.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Place your DMM into &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot;. &lt;br /&gt;
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the &amp;quot;oddball&amp;quot; lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn&#039;t oriented the same as the others (as with the &amp;quot;spade&amp;quot; type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the &amp;quot;wire lead&amp;quot; type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge&#039;s internal diodes).&lt;br /&gt;
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the &amp;quot;oddball&amp;quot; lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not &amp;quot;hard and fast&amp;quot;. For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; or a &amp;quot;short&amp;quot;. Note also that this test is not conducted &amp;quot;under load&amp;quot; and it is possible for the bridge to test &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Testing BR1 &amp;quot;InSitu&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible to test BR1 while the power/driver board is still installed in the game. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Thanks to PinSider &amp;quot;Zaza&amp;quot; for the procedure and animation&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
#Power the game off&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure fuse F114 is good&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove connector J101 on the right side of the power/driver board&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to &amp;quot;diode check&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe as indicated in the animated gif pictured below&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingBR1InSitu.gif|Testing BR1 &amp;quot;InSitu&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wpc-br.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The heat sink covering BR1 and BR2 on a WPC-board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Take special care when replacing a bridge rectifier.  It is easy to lift the traces of the plated through holes when removing these.  After removing the heat sink, cut the old bridge rectifier off of the board close to the top leaving as much of the lug as possible.  Then add a small amount of solder to the connection on the solder side to improve heat transfer.  Finally apply the iron to the solder side to heat the joint and remove the remaining lug with small pliers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When replacing the new bridge rectifier you should remove the old thermal compound and apply a new thin layer.  The old compound can be removed with a little rubbing alcohol.  Apply the thermal compound to the top of the bridge rectifiers and reattach the heat sink with the screws [[#Failed_Bridge_Rectifier | (see above)]].  It is much easier to replace the heat sink before resoldering the new bridge rectifier.  Make sure that the heatsink is sitting flush with the tops of the bridge rectifiers and that you leave about a 5/8&amp;quot; gap between the bridge rectifier and the board to improve air flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Splitting the heat sink between BR1 and BR2 was at one time thought to improve reliability. This is no longer considered a best practice and is &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; recommended. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wps-diodes.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diodes replaced BR1 and BR2 on WPC-95 boards]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In WPC-95 games, BR1 and BR2 were replaced by a series of diodes. D11-D14 replaced BR1. D7-D10 replaced BR2. These are much less prone to failure. Still, they do fail on occasion. If one or more fail, it&#039;s best to replace all four in the &amp;quot;gang&amp;quot;. These diodes were originally 6A2 diodes. Replace them with 6A4 diodes (6 amp 200V vs 6 amp 400V). See the &amp;quot;Check Fuses F106 and F101&amp;quot; section below for the equivalent WPC-95 message.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Check Fuses F115 and F116 Message===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Check F115 F116.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Check Fuses F115 and F116 Message]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Similar to the &amp;quot;Check Fuses F114 and F115&amp;quot; above, games like Demolition Man will display this message at power up if the trough optos are seen as closed (remember, the opto switch open/closed logic is inverted). Debug this issue by checking the 12v connectors at the lower left corner of the driver board and the connectors on the trough opto transmitter and receiver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC-95 Check Fuses F106 and F101 Message===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CheckFuses106And101.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Check Fuses F106 and F101 Message]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a WPC-95 game detects loss of 12VDC power by not seeing switch 24 as closed, &amp;quot;Check Fuses F106 and F101&amp;quot; will be displayed at power up. This could obviously mean that F101 and/or F106 are blown. It might also indicate failure of the LM7812 12VDC regulator at Q2 in which case LED102 will be on and LED100 will be off or, failure of one or more of the 6A2 diodes that rectify the AC power (D11-D14). In the latter case, both LED102 and LED100 will be off. Use these LED indicators, as well as testing for 18VDC at TP102 and 12VDC at TP100 to guide your repairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Line Voltage Detection - LED2 &amp;amp; LED3===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
LED2 and LED3 on the Power Driver Board are indicators for the line voltage detection circuit.  On on-board comparator circuit uses +5V and +18V to check the line voltage.  The comparator consists of a resistor voltage divider and an LM339 comparator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows how to interpret the LED states.  Note that other problems with the +18V or +5V supply could cause a high or low line voltage indication.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Line Voltage Indicator Chart&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!LED2&lt;br /&gt;
!LED3&lt;br /&gt;
!Voltage&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;On&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Off&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;OK&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Off&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Off&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;High&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;On&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;On&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Low&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Exploding or Damaged 15,000uf Capacitor at C11 (C10 on WPC-95)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A smoking, domed, or in the worst case exploded filter capacitor at C11 can result from cross connecting J124 and J128 on the power/driver board. Doing so creates a circuit that routes 70VDC coil power through C11 which is typically rated at 25VDC and is meant to filter the 20VDC flash lamp circuit. This is made possible since J124 and J128 are identically implemented. Both are 5 pins wide, both keyed at pin 4. This is possible on &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WhiteWater&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Dr. Who&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Bram Stokers Dracula&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; at least, and may also be possible on other games. It is possible on any WPC or WPC-S game that uses J124, whether or not J128 is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:J106ConnectedToJ132BlowsC11.jpg|thumb|left|200px| J106 flash lamp power connector with red/white wire incorrectly connected to J132 on a Gilligan&#039;s Island, perhaps by Gilligan himself. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of FB &amp;quot;Pinball Repair Group II&amp;quot; member Criss King&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
Another very effective way to blow C11 is to connect the flash lamp power connector at J106 to high power coil grounding circuits at J132. The connectors are the same width and keyed identically. This connects 72VDC coil power to the 20VDC flash lamp power which is filtered by C11, a 15,000uf/25V capacitor, with the same results as mentioned above.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other possible causes for a damaged C11 are a shorted flipper coil diode, a shorted drive transistor on the FlipTronics board, or installing backbox ribbon connectors incorrectly (bottom female housing row to top male header row).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:J124J128ErrorBlockingDiode.jpg|thumb|left|200px| A 1N4004 blocking diode installed in series with R224. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
An effective method of preventing damage to C11 in the event that one of the conditions above is met, is to install a blocking diode in series with the large sand resistor at R224. Install a 1N4004 (for example) with the banded side facing the PCB as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC and WPC-S Games With No Solenoid, Flasher or Feature Lamps, A Blanking Signal Issue===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SeveredBlankingSignal.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The trace emanating to the right from pin 1 in this picture has been severed by corrosion as it passes between pins 19 and 20.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking signal from the MPU is connected to pin 1 of each of the 74LS374 buffers (U1 thru U5 and U18) that drive general illumination, flash lamps, coils, and feature lamps. Normally, this signal is pulled low by the MPU board, indicating that no faults have been detected and the system is running as expected. Without a low blanking signal, none of the game features implemented by the driver board will be enabled.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As these games begin to age, the 12V filter cap located at C2 begins to leak it&#039;s corrosive contents onto the PCB. As noted in the section titled &amp;quot;[https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message Check Fuses F114 and F115 Message]&amp;quot;, the corrosion often damages adjacent parts and sometimes invades the solder mask to sever critical signals, like the blanking signal or even data signals. If continuity can not be &amp;quot;buzzed&amp;quot; between the blanking and data pins of U1 and U2, and C2 has been leaking, then there is a good chance that the signal trace has been severed under or around U1. Corrosion seems to accumulate under the chip and between the legs frequently. To address this issue, cleanly remove the chip, clean up the corrosion, rebuild traces as necessary, install a socket, and replace the 74LS374 if necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid, Flasher, and Motor problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Flashers, solenoids, and motors in WPC games are turned on via transistors on the driver board and in some games, transistors on the [[Williams_WPC#Auxiliary_8-Driver_Board_.28A-16100.29| Auxiliary 8 Driver Board]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before proceeding to diagnose solenoid or flasher problems, see this section: [[General#How_coils.2C_flashers.2C_and_motors_are_turned_on| How Coils, Flashers, and Motors are Turned On]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The general logic for providing a path to ground for a coil, solenoid, flasher or motor (subsequently, we&#039;ll refer to coils only, but this is true for coils, flashers, and motors) via the driver board is as follows. Operation of the [[Williams_WPC#Auxiliary_8-Driver_Board_.28A-16100.29| Auxiliary 8 Driver Board]] is similar but control is accomplished via the long ribbon cable from the MPU to the 8-Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#The MPU places the appropriate bit pattern on the data bus to control a &amp;quot;bank&amp;quot; of 8 transistor circuits. The data bus is extended to the power/driver board via the interboard ribbon cable.&lt;br /&gt;
#The MPU/ASIC &amp;quot;clocks&amp;quot; the appropriate [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/90/375622_DS.pdf 74LS374], an &amp;quot;octal latch&amp;quot; on the power/driver board, to latch data on the data bus into the 74LS374.&lt;br /&gt;
#The outputs of the 74LS374 turn on a 2N5401 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The output of the 2N5401 turns on a TIP-102 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The TIP-102 transistor either provides the path to ground for the waiting coil power or, for higher powered coils, turns on a TIP-36c transistor which provides the path to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reason that (up to) 3 transistors are used in the circuit is to &amp;quot;amplify&amp;quot; the power. A 2N5401 transistor can handle a comparatively small amount of current. A TIP-102 transistor can handle a much greater current load. The TIP-36c in 8 of the WPC power/driver board circuits can handle an even greater current load.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; With the exception of flipper coils and coils driven through the &amp;quot;special solenoid&amp;quot; drivers, diodes used to [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snubber snub] the reverse current caused by the collapse of the coil&#039;s electromagnetic field, are located on the driver board. High power and low power playfield and backbox coils (solenoids 1 through 16) should not have a diode on them. This convention eases the tech&#039;s job in that he/she doesn&#039;t need to be careful with diode orientation on the coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Coils driven by a Flash Lamp drive (solenoids 17 through 20) or by special solenoid drives (solenoids 21 through 28) require a &amp;quot;tie back diode&amp;quot; connection. When a flash lamp drive is used, a diode must be added to the circuitry, as was done with the Terminator 2 single drop target for example, as the power/driver board doesn&#039;t include this diode. When a special solenoid drive is used, a connection from the coil, back to the appropriate pin on the driver board which leads to the on-board tie back diode, must be made. See the section [[#Blown / Failing Q20 Transistor on the Driver Board and the Tieback Diode|Blown / Failing Q20 Transistor on the Driver Board and the Tieback Diode]] below for more information&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Transistor &amp;quot;Quick Check&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:QuickTransistorCheck.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing TIP-102s quickly on a WPC power/driver board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A quick check of the TIP-102s on the driver board can save time. Set your DMM to &amp;quot;continuity check&amp;quot;. Place the black lead of your DMM on board ground. Touch the tab of each TIP-102. If the meter indicates continuity, then that TIP-102 is shorted. This quick test works only with TIP-102s and NOT with TIP-36c transistors since the tab of a TIP-36c is connected differently.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For WPC power/driver boards, the lamp matrix TIP-107 transistors can also be checked using this method if the black probe is touched to the 18V test point on the right edge of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating this technique on a Data East MPU can be viewed [https://youtu.be/VXiS04-yY58 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====&amp;quot;Help&amp;quot; Info Provided by WPC Games====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCHelpSequence.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC games provide help during coil test.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During coil test, pressing the credit button provides a bit of information helpful in debugging your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With coil test &amp;quot;stopped&amp;quot;, pressing the credit button sequences through the following information.&lt;br /&gt;
*Solenoid power and ground (drive) wire colors&lt;br /&gt;
*Solenoid power and ground (drive) connections&lt;br /&gt;
*The fuse that protects the circuit&lt;br /&gt;
*The sequence of cascading transistors that provide a path to ground for the solenoid. In the picture at left, Q82 (TIP-36), Q81 (TIP-102), and Q71 (2N5401) provide the path to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Failed TIP-36c====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSolenoidGroundTraceBlownAndRepairedAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A blown trace (inside the yellow circle) caused by a shorted TIP-36c transistor. The damage has been nicely repaired with a solid core jumper, soldered to through hole components versus &amp;quot;tack soldered&amp;quot; to the trace, making a stronger solder joint. Note: solder flux visible on replaced TIP-102 and TIP-36c later removed with isopropyl alcohol.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When replacing shorted transistors, examine the traces connected to the transistor for further damage. In the picture at left, a shorted TIP-36c was replaced. During test, the first time the TIP-36c was called upon to provide a path to ground for the associated coil, the TIP-36c failed shorted again. This was caused by the blown trace.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blown / Failing Q20 Transistor on the Driver Board and the Tieback Diode====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Terminator2DiodeTiebackWireAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The violet/orange &amp;quot;diode tieback&amp;quot; wire, attached to the power side of the drop target reset coil in Terminator 2. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Terminator2-Q20ViolentExposionCropped.jpg |200px|thumb|right|Q20, with a major malfunction, due to the diode tieback wire connection being missing. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Several games (Star Trek the Next Generation, Funhouse, Terminator 2, Indiana Jones, and The Addams Family to name a few), employ the use of a &amp;quot;diode tieback&amp;quot; system on a specific coil or motor. A diode tieback is the use of a clamping diode between the drive transistor ground and the voltage source to accommodate the reverse voltage spike induced when a coil&#039;s magnetic field collapses. While Williams moved most clamping diodes to the power/driver board, the flashlamp circuits (drives 17 through 20) don&#039;t include a clamping diode. Flash lamps don&#039;t create the same reverse voltage spike and hence, don&#039;t require a clamping diode. A tieback diode must be added to the game wiring when one of these flashlamp drives are used to turn on a coil or a motor. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Special Solenoid&amp;quot; drive circuits (drives 21 through 28) do include a clamping diode but that diode isn&#039;t connected to a voltage source. Presumably, Williams did this to provide flexibility in voltage levels used to drive a special solenoid. When one of the special solenoid drives is used to drive a coil or motor, a connection must be made from the power side of the coil or motor back to the associated power/driver board clamping diode via the appropriate header pin at connectors J122 through J126.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the tieback diode connection is lost, the associated drive transistor on the driver board (as pictured on the right) &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WILL&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be damaged. Also, the associated coil is likely to be held on continuously and melt. In the example pictured at left from a Terminator 2, the diode tieback wire is the thin violet/orange wire.  It connects from the coil power side on the drop target assembly coil lug to J122 pin 9 on the driver board and then to clamping diode D5. If the solder connection at the coil lug is solid, suspect the wire connection at the J122 IDC connector. Repinning this connection with a good quality crimp-on Trifurcon pin is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Addams Family&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; uses Q20 for the &amp;quot;Swamp Release&amp;quot; coil, Q22 for the &amp;quot;Bookcase Motor&amp;quot;, Q24 for the &amp;quot;Thing Eject Hole&amp;quot;, and Q26 for the &amp;quot;Thing Motor&amp;quot;, all requiring a tieback diode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Star Trek: the Next Generation&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; drives the subway diverters via the 8-Driver board in the upper right side of the head. These also require a tieback diode as discussed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation#Diode_.22Tie_Back.22_missing_causes_8-Driver_Board_transistor_to_fail here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coil Locks On====&lt;br /&gt;
This is the most prevalent problem observed (versus coil not firing). When a coil locks on, this means that the power that is present at the coil at all times has found a path to ground. Normally, a path to ground is provided via a controlled transistor set on the driver board. In rare cases a frayed wire or a wire with an insulation gap/failure will touch ground and the coil will lock on. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most of the time, the drive transistor on the driver board has shorted internally and is acting as if it&#039;s been turned on. Should this be the case, the following steps will isolate the problem transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Use the &amp;quot;Solenoid/Flasher Table&amp;quot; at the front of the game manual to identify the likely failed transistor(s). &lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the driver board from the game.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test the drive transistor (TIP-102 or TIP-36c).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing a TIP-102 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
#Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
#A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing a TIP-36c transistor&lt;br /&gt;
#Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
#A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the drive transistor tests failed, remove the part using this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Desoldering_Printed_Circuit_Board_Through_Hole_Components procedure] being very careful with the delicate traces and through holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most of the time, the last transistor in the cascading transistor chain is the only one to have failed. But, it&#039;s important to test the upstream transistors before placing the board back into service. If a TIP-102 has been found to have failed, test the upstream associated 2N5401 predriver. If a TIP-36c has been found to have failed, test the upstream associated TIP-102 and 2N5401 predrivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Terminator2-Q20ViolentExposionCropped.jpg |200px|thumb|left|A failure involving other parts connected to the failed transistor &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Sometimes, additional parts connected to the failed transistor will have been damaged too, as pictured at left. It then becomes necessary to replace those parts, remove carbon (it&#039;s a conductor) and to rebuild burned traces as necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When a coil has locked on for an extended period of time, the coil wire insulation heats up, melts, and begins to short together. Left locked on for long enough, the coil becomes a dead short. It&#039;s important to test the resistance of the failed coil to ensure that it hasn&#039;t been damaged. A resistance measurement less than 2 ohms certainly means that the coil is damaged, but comparing the coil&#039;s resistance to other known good coils is the best and easiest test. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WARNING:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If the coil has become a dead short and remains in circuit, and the game is powered on, the associated driver transistor WILL be damaged.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coil Fails to Work====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before proceeding, see this section: [[General#How_coils.2C_flashers.2C_and_motors_are_turned_on| How Coils, Flashers, and Motors are Turned On]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Possible causes for coils failing to fire include:&lt;br /&gt;
*The switch associated with the coil is not being sensed by the MPU, and hence the MPU doesn&#039;t command the coil to fire.&lt;br /&gt;
*The coil doesn&#039;t have power&lt;br /&gt;
*One/both of the coil wires are not solidly soldered to the solder lug&lt;br /&gt;
*The coil winding is open&lt;br /&gt;
*The coil power is not finding a path to ground&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Associated Switch Failure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the MPU isn&#039;t commanding the coil to fire, obviously it won&#039;t. For instance, if a slingshot switch isn&#039;t being &amp;quot;made&amp;quot; or some other switch matrix problem prevents proper switch sensing, then the MPU won&#039;t command the slingshot coil to fire. This type of failure is easy to isolate merely by placing the game in switch test and closing the switch. Also, if during game play, points are scored when the switch closes, clearly the switch is being made. If a coil fires in solenoid test but not in game play, then the root cause is a switch problem versus a coil problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;No Power to the Coil, Coil Wire not Solidly Soldered, or Coil Winding Open&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing for power to the coil is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
*Set the DMM to DC volts. If not an auto-ranging meter, expect less than 200VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn the game on.&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on a convenient game ground like the ground braid or side rail.&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the coil lug with the &amp;quot;fat&amp;quot; wire(s). The fat wire carries power to the coil.&lt;br /&gt;
*The appropriate voltage should be read (75VDC for coils, 20VDC for flashers)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the appropriate voltage is not seen, there are two primary reasons. Either the power circuit fuse has blown or there is a discontinuity in the power wiring from the driver board to the coil. Turn the game off. Remove the associated fuse and &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; it with a DMM set to continuity test. While the fuse is out of the board, make sure it&#039;s rated at the proper amperage. Generally, WPC coil and flasher circuits are fused with a 3ASB fuse. If the fuses tests good, the next test is to ensure continuity from that fuse to the coil power lug. With the DMM still set to continuity, &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between the fuse and the coil power lug. If continuity isn&#039;t proven, the task is then to find the break in continuity between the driver board connector and the coil power lug. Remember that power is &amp;quot;daisy chained&amp;quot; through several coils in the game. That is why some coils will appear to have two power wires soldered to one lug.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the appropriate voltage is seen, then test for a break in the coil windings. With the game still powered on...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the other coil lug.&lt;br /&gt;
*Again, the appropriate voltage should be seen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the appropriate voltage is not seen, then either the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is not solidly soldered to the coil&#039;s solder tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Coil Power is Not Finding a Path to Ground&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The smaller wire attached to one of the coil lugs connects the coil to the driver board. The driver board has a drive transistor allocated for each coil in the game. The smaller wire must have a solid connection back to the driver board. There are two ways to test the path to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a DMM set to continuity to &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection of the smaller wire between the coil and the female connector on the driver board. Ensure that the connection of the wire at the IDC connector is solid. If the coil is driven by a TIP-102 transistor, buzzing between the smaller wire on the coil and the transistor tab should show continuity.&lt;br /&gt;
#With the game powered on, and a short length of wire stripped on both ends, touch one end of the wire to the ground braid in the head. Touch the other end of the wire BRIEFLY to the tab of the associated TIP-102. If the coil pulls in, then the path to ground has been proven and the failure is likely the TIP-102 itself. NOTE: This test can be performed ONLY when a TIP-102 is the drive transistor. TIP-36c transistors are configured differently. The tab of a TIP-36c is not connected in the same way.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the wiring and connector have been verified to be in order, the next step is to test the associated drive transistor. Unlike when a coil locks on and the driver transistor has shorted on, in this case the drive transistor may have failed &amp;quot;open&amp;quot;. Test the transistor using the same procedure outlined in the prior section. Replace as necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the drive transistor tests failed, remove the part using this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Desoldering_Printed_Circuit_Board_Through_Hole_Components procedure] being very careful with the delicate traces and through holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Low Coil Voltage====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-C8.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C8, located near the 50VDC test point, can cause reduced coil power.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Coil power for WPC games is nominally about 70VDC. Very little can reduce this voltage. If the game is delivering significantly less than 70VDC, suspect BR3. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s also possible for C8 to cause reduced voltage. C8 is a 100uf/150V (sometimes installed as 100uf/100V) capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Q26 Transistor &amp;amp; Coil Locking On with Rottendog Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Rottendog-wdb089-masking-error.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Masking error on Rotendog WDB089 Rev. 2]]&lt;br /&gt;
If the Q26 transistor (and associated coil) keeps locking on with a Rottendog WDB089 driver board, there may be an erroneously exposed trace on the back of the PCB near one of the screw mount notches that is causing a short. It is located at the bottom edge of the board near connector J122. The exposed trace is next to the grounding pad for the screw mount, and excess solder may be bridging them together.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The issue was noticed on a revision 2 board. It is not currently known if other board revisions are affected by the issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address the issue, first remove any excess solder that may be bridging the connection between the exposed trace and the grounding pad. Then, seal the exposed trace with a PCB solder mask material (ie, an overcoat pen would work) or clear nail polish.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lamps (or globes for those of you in the UK) fall into two categories. &amp;quot;General Illumination&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Controlled Lamps&amp;quot;. Your game probably has other lamps which are actually &amp;quot;flashers&amp;quot; that require an 89 or 906 bulb. Flashers are covered elsewhere in this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General illumination lamps (GI) provide the ambient lighting for the playfield, backbox, and coin door. These lamps are lit most of the time. The only &amp;quot;controllable&amp;quot; aspect of these lamps is their brightness, which of course, includes off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Controlled lamps (sometimes called &amp;quot;feature lamps&amp;quot;) are under complete CPU control via the 8-by-8 lamp matrix. These lamps illuminate the various &amp;quot;features&amp;quot; of the game such as mode inserts, pop bumper lamps, inlane/outlane insert lamps, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Lamp Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|200px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WPC and WPC-95 systems employed &amp;quot;lamp boards&amp;quot; to ease the manufacturing process. These lamp board PCBs used &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; sockets, each with a 555 lamp. Over time, the pads on these sockets develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot; which sometimes results in a poor connection to the twist in socket. This can be easily corrected by removing the lamp board from the game and reflowing the solder on the pads.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another problem with lamp boards is the header connections. The solder joints at the connection pins often fracture due to connector insertion pressure, heat, fatigue, etc, and due to being a single sided PCB. The fix for this is again to reflow the solder around the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FracturedSolderJointLampBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Fractured solder joints on this lamp socket caused intermittent operation.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One of the less reliable designs Williams used was to &amp;quot;cantilever&amp;quot; lamp sockets over the end of lamp boards. This was done on a great many games such as Twilight Zone, Judge Dredd, etc. The repeated pressure needed to insert a new lamp into the socket causes the solder to fracture. This can be corrected easily by simply reflowing the solder at the joint.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
However in some instances, the socket has become damaged beyond the simple repair of just soldering the legs to the lamp board.  Replacement sockets are available from most pinball parts vendors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If after repairing the lamp board divots, reflowing the header connectors, the lamp socket is still completely intact, (the contacts do break off of the socket sometimes), and the bulb is good, suspect that the diode associated with the particular lamp may be bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Illumination Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Background&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCGIConnectors.jpg|thumb|200px|left|WPC/WPC-S General Illumination Connectors J119 (cabinet), J120 and J121 (repinned)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC power/driver board provides 5 GI circuits under CPU &amp;quot;brightness control&amp;quot;. The WPC-95 power/driver board provides 3 GI circuits under CPU &amp;quot;brightness&amp;quot; control and 2 circuits that are always powered. Those two circuits are always connected to the backbox lamps.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
GI power is provided by the transformer in the form of 6.3VAC at power/driver board connector J115. Although there are five pairs of wires, they are all connected together at the transformer. One side of the AC GI circuit on the power/driver board is fused by F106 through F110 which are all 5ASB fuses. This side runs to the GI lamps, and carries 6.3VAC to the backbox, playfield, and coin door via power driver board connectors J120, J121, and J119 respectively. J119 is a 3-pin header that is always connected to the coin door lamps. J120 and J121 are electrically and physically identical (keyed at pin 4) and therefore can be connected to either the female playfield GI connector or the female backbox GI connector without care. The other side of the GI AC feed is connected to ground. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The GI power is controlled by a triac in the return line from the playfield. When these triacs are off, no current passes and  the lamps are off. When the triac is turned on, the GI lamps glow. The triac is a slightly special part - it must be a &amp;quot;four sector&amp;quot; triac. This means that it can switch both positive and negative sides of the AC cycle with only a positive signal.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each triac is switched on/off by a 2N5401 transistor which is controlled by U1, a 74LS374, an octal D-Type Flip-Flop with three state outputs (a fancy way of saying that the device is an 8-bit data buffer). &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
U1 is &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot; by the ASIC via the /TRIAC signal. If you have AC power present at J115, and no GI at all, it&#039;s possible that the /TRIAC signal is not getting through to U1. A logic probe applied to pin 11 of U1 will prove that the signal is getting through. If the signal is not present, try (after turning the power OFF)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Pressing firmly on the MPU ASIC to &amp;quot;reseat&amp;quot; it. &lt;br /&gt;
*&amp;quot;Reseating&amp;quot; the ribbon cable between the MPU and the Power/Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use your logic probe to track the signal from pin 66 of the ASIC, across the MPU to the MPU connector, across the ribbon cable, then across the Power/Driver board to U1 pin 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU can dim the GI by switching on the GI for only parts of the AC waveform. To do this, the CPU uses a zero crossing signal on the driver board keyed from the AC that feeds the 5V circuit, diodes D3 and D38, and the LM339 at U6. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCJ115.jpg|thumb|200px|left|WPC General Illumination Connector J115 (AC power in). Note wire colors, beginning on the bottom with a yellow/white, then three (looped) yellow, then three (looped) yellow/white.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wire colors to J115 during the early WPC games were always yellow (AC) and yellow-white (AC return) as pictured at left. Pin 1 of J115 provides the &amp;quot;ground reference&amp;quot;. Later WPC games used different wire colors at J115 and instead of &amp;quot;looping&amp;quot; power through the connector at J115, connected two wires to the same pin at the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The colored wire connections for this era of WPC game are yel-wht connected to pin 1, yellow connected to pins 2-6, yel-wht connected to pins 7,8, 10, 11, &amp;amp; 12.  Pin 9 is the key. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
J119 is always keyed at pin 2, with a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;white-&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; wire at pin 1 and a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; wire at pin 3&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
J120 and J121 are 11 pin connectors. Wire color/positions (when used) are identical for all WPC games and are shown in the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire color at J120/J121&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Common GI Problem Causes&#039;&#039;&#039; (listed by probability/ease of testing and correction)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;GI Bulbs Not Lighting&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let&#039;s start by determining if the problem is &amp;quot;off board&amp;quot;, i.e. not on your power/driver board, or &amp;quot;on board&amp;quot;. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Take note of the wire color of the GI string that is not working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an &amp;quot;auto-ranging&amp;quot; model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on.&lt;br /&gt;
#Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector position with the same wire color as noted earlier. Make sure you make contact with the conductor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector with the white wire that has the same color &amp;quot;tracer&amp;quot; as the color noted earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
#You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.&lt;br /&gt;
#If there is voltage at the connector, then the problem is &amp;quot;off board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
#If there is no voltage at the connector, then the problem is &amp;quot;on board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Off board GI problems&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;All lamps blown.&#039;&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t laugh. Just for giggles, put a known working lamp into one of the lamp sockets of the suspected GI string. I&#039;ve seen it more than once. Usually the result of operators never changing a bulb, or somehow connecting higher voltage to the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;Open&amp;quot; in GI wiring.&#039;&#039;&#039; The GI wires leading from J120/J121 may be cut/broken between the connector and the GI lamp sockets. Remove both of the female connectors at J120/J121. Use your DMM to check continuity between the lamp socket and the appropriate wire/pin at J120/J121.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;On board GI problems&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;Blown fuses.&#039;&#039;&#039; This is also the easiest problem to fix. Check each GI fuse following this [[General#Testing_fuses| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]. Don&#039;t trust your eyes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol start=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Loss of &amp;quot;Cross Board&amp;quot; Connectivity.&#039;&#039;&#039; This problem is generally caused by burned header pins, traces, or in some cases, poor prior repairs. Use the following table to check cross board connectivity with J120/J121 as your target. Buzz between the pins/parts shown in the table or use the diagrams below.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;GI Connector/pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Connects to&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;...and to fuse&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;associated circuit wire color&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q18 tab&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;|| &amp;amp;nbsp;|| &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q10 tab&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q14 tab&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-4&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Key pin&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;|| &amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q16 tab&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q12 tab&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;|| &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-7&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;J115-3&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;F110&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-8&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;J115-4&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;F109&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-9&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;J115-6&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;F108&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;J115-5&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;F107&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-11&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;J115-2&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;F106&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;GI Connector/pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Connects to&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;associated circuit wire color&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-7&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q10 pin 1&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-8&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q18 pin 1&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-9&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Key pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q16 pin 1&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-11&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q14 pin 1&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-12&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q12 pin 1&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=140px heights=180px perrow=5 caption=&amp;quot;WPC-089 Power/Driver Board GI Buzz Diagrams provided by Sascha Voskuil&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GIBuzzBrown.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GIBuzzOrange.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GIBuzzYellow.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Yellow GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GIBuzzGreen.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GIBuzzPurple.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Click on the thumbnails above for the full sized GI buzz image&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The clickable images above, in an animated gif...&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AnimatedGIConnections.gif|center|An animated diagram of WPC-089 GI connections]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:J120-J121SolderPads.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Critical PCB traces for the brown and orange GI circuits that are often compromised with amateurish attempts to replace J120.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Regarding poor prior rework, sometimes when J120 is replaced, the through holes at pins 7 and/or 8, are pulled causing a loss of connectivity from the board front to the board rear. This will prevent the brown and/or orange color GI circuit from working properly. Additionally, the through hole at J121, pin 6, that routes power to the 3-pin connector at J119, if pulled, will cause the cabinet GI (violet) to not light (coin door lights).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Burned connectors.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Over long periods of time, both the male and female GI connectors at J115, J120, and J121 often burn.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This was especially prevalent in early WPC games like Terminator 2.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS WPC Burnt GI Typical.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Typical burned connector on the output (female) side of the backbox GI on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurnedJ120-121.jpg|thumb|200px|right|These female housings for J120/121 are burned so much that they are &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; to the male headers.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurnedJ120-121Rwmoved.jpg|thumb|200px|left|The connectors after removal. Get your marshmallows ready.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Numerous &amp;quot;hacks&amp;quot; have been employed over the years by well meaning repairmen but the only real way to fix burned connectors is to replace both the male header pins and the female housings/pins. &amp;quot;Trifurcon&amp;quot; phosphor-bronze crimp-on pins are recommended to provide a better connection at the female connector. Note that these must be phosphor-bronze (7A rating, as original). Don&#039;t buy them unless the supplier calls that out as the brass version looks the same but is only rated at 5A. If you replace burned female connectors, the male connectors are probably burned too and should be replaced. The damaged surface of the male pins will generate heat, and cause early failure of the replacement connector. Plus, the GI will be dimmer than it should be. J115 is a special case. The black Panduit connector that Williams used on many machines is far superior to any crimp pin, with a 12A rating (compared to 7A for phosphor-bronze Trifurcon pins). These, however, can be hard to find. Fortunately, they rarely burn and therefore rarely require service. Another alternative for high current connections is to use Molex MarKK series contacts (Molex part number 45570-3050) along with Molex 41695 series plugs. Although they cost more than the Trifurcon style contacts, these contacts are rated for a current load up to 13 amps.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WPC-089 Power/Driver Board J120/J121 connector repair parts list...&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;Qty&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Part&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Product ID&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;11 pin .156 male header (cut to size) || &amp;amp;nbsp;26-48-1245&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Connector, .156 Plug, 11 pin (Molex 41695 series) || &amp;amp;nbsp;09-50-8111&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;.156 Trifurcon crimp contacts for the larger gauge wires || &amp;amp;nbsp;08-52-0113&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;.156 Trifurcon crimp contacts for the smaller gauge wires&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;08-52-0125&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;quot;Keying Pins&amp;quot; for Molex 41695 series plugs || &amp;amp;nbsp;15-04-0297&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Crimp tool || &amp;amp;nbsp;1028-CT (or equivalent)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Product IDs shown above can be found at http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-80.asp. Other vendors may carry these same parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Burned AC power input connector.&#039;&#039;&#039; There is also a 9-pin (3x3) connector between the transformer secondary and J115. This connector/pins sometimes burn and may require replacement. Check to ensure that AC power is being delivered to the power/driver board at J115.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCGICabinetConnection.jpg|thumb|200px|left|WPC General Illumination power connection between the transformer secondary and J115 (AC power in). This picture is from a Twilight Zone, which used the newer, multicolored wires between this connector and J115 on the power/driver board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an &amp;quot;auto-ranging&amp;quot; model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn the game on.&lt;br /&gt;
*Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 3.&lt;br /&gt;
*Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 11.&lt;br /&gt;
*You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.&lt;br /&gt;
*If no voltage is present, examine the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115, pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Burned traces.&#039;&#039;&#039; Usually, this is a secondary problem created after the connectors burn. Visual inspection of the traces might uncover the problem, but &amp;quot;buzzing&amp;quot; them for continuity is the best practice.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Failed 2N5401.&#039;&#039;&#039; These don&#039;t fail very often, but are easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_&amp;quot;stitch&amp;quot;,_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]].&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Failed resistors.&#039;&#039;&#039; Again, these don&#039;t fail very often but are easy to test with your DMM. Keep in mind that &amp;quot;in-circuit&amp;quot; measurements may not be reliable.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Failed 74LS374.&#039;&#039;&#039; This is rare too but easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_&amp;quot;stitch&amp;quot;,_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]. You can also test the outputs of the LS374 by probing pins 2, 5, 6, 16 and 19 with your logic probe. At full GI brightness (8), these pins should test as solid &amp;quot;low&amp;quot;. At the dimmest GI brightness (1), the above referenced pins should all be pulsing &amp;quot;high&amp;quot;. Additionally, pin 1 of the LS374 should always test low and pin 11 should always be pulsing &amp;quot;high&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Failed Triac.&#039;&#039;&#039; These rarely fail. But, if you&#039;ve gotten to this step in the procedure, it&#039;s time to replace the Triac. Remember, you need a 4-sector triac.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As these boards age it is easy to pull out the little copper hole liners that connect traces from one side of the board to the other. If you install new connector pins, be sure to check continuity from the new pins onto the board somewhere. This only takes a couple minutes and can save you a lot of time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====GI Lamps Not Dimming=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC089BlankingTraces.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Small traces leading from the through holes of BR2&#039;s AC solder pads (pads circled) can be easily damaged, causing GI lamps to not dim. On this board revision, the upper/right through-hole has a small trace on the solder side of the board that connects to the &amp;quot;via&amp;quot; visible to the left of the through-hole. These traces lead to vias which can be seen just SouthWest of R194.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The primary cause of GI lamps failing to dim is broken traces at BR2, usually caused when BR2 was replaced. These traces lead to D3 and D38. Both of these traces must be intact for dimming to work as they supply the power to generate the signal to the Zero Cross circuit (ZC) which is key to dimming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before you go too far diagnosing the hardware, if your WPC game will not dim the general illumination, make sure that &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Standard Adjustment #25, &amp;quot;Allow Dim Illum.&amp;quot;,&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; is set to &amp;quot;YES&amp;quot;. If set to &amp;quot;NO&amp;quot;, then the GI will never dim, even during General Illumination test. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General dimming &amp;quot;theory of operation&amp;quot;...&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The driver board generates the ZC signal with the BR2, D3/D38 and U6 circuitry (different resistors).&lt;br /&gt;
*The ZC signal is connected to the ASIC (across the driver board, the ribbon, and then across the MPU).&lt;br /&gt;
*The ASIC uses the ZC signal to determine when to send the /TRIAC signal to U1 pin 11 (an 74LS374 buffer IC) as it simultaneously presents GI string enable data on the data bus.&lt;br /&gt;
*U1 latches GI string enable data from the MPU&#039;s data bus.&lt;br /&gt;
*The output of U1 forms signals T0 thru T4, which enable the TRIAC circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ZC_broken.jpg|thumb|200px|left|This is the ZC signal from a Doctor Who with a broken trace between the two 270 ohm resistors after D3. Dimming did not work in this example.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ZC_ok.jpg|thumb|200px|right|This is the ZC signal from a properly working Twilight Zone with General Illumination dimming working correctly.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible that D3, D38 (1N4004 diodes) or the LM339 at U6 have failed. If the ZC test point on the power/driver board is not strobing (which can be seen with a logic probe), something upstream of the test point has failed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
U6 is an LM339 comparator. The resistors around it (R16 and R17, both 230 ohm 1/4 watt) help generate the correct ZC signal. If a resistor is burned or out of spec, or if a trace is broken in the circuit (there are several &amp;quot;vias&amp;quot;), then ZC may still strobe but in an incorrect way which the ASIC doesn&#039;t recognize as the zero cross signal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The ZC may be strobing, yet the GI still won&#039;t dim. Use a logic probe to test both sides of diodes D3 and D38 as it is necessary for both the positive going and the negative going portions of the AC sine wave to be detected. If the traces buzz out back to BR2, then suspect one side of BR2 being open. Incredibly, it is possible for the game to work correctly in all regards other than GI dimming with half of the bridge open. Odd...but it happens.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-95 General Illumination Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95GIToast.jpg|thumb|200px|left|The GI section of a WPC-95 driver board with 6A2 diodes installed. Note the significant burn around the diodes as well as the melted connectors and burned pins.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The General Illumination circuit for WPC-95 games is very similar to WPC games. When the WPC-95 system was implemented, Williams reduced the number of &amp;quot;dimmable&amp;quot; GI circuits from 5 to 3, with 2 of the circuits being lit at all times. Within the two &amp;quot;always on&amp;quot; GI circuits, Williams placed 8 large 6A2 diodes, to create a voltage drop in the circuit which would dim the lamps slightly and presumably lengthen lamp life. However, these big 6A2 diodes create a great deal of heat. Without a heat-sink like those used on the TRIACs, the high heat they produce causes the printed circuit board and traces to burn. Later versions of the WPC-95 driver board replaced these 6A2 diodes with zero ohm jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95GIJumpers.jpg|thumb|200px|left|The back side of a WPC-95 driver board with jumpers installed across the GI circuit.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
You can (and probably should) remove the 6A2 diodes, and either replace them with zero ohm jumpers, or, more easily, implement the solution pictured at left. This solution bypasses the diodes completely, by installing the following jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*J103 pin 11 jumped to J105 pin 5&lt;br /&gt;
*J103 pin 12 jumped to J105 pin 6&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=160px heights=280px perrow=5 caption=&amp;quot;WPC-95 Power/Driver Board GI Buzz Diagrams provided by Sascha Voskuil&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wpc95PinWikiGI-String1-Brown.png|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wpc95PinWikiGI-String2-Orange.png|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wpc95PinWikiGIString3-Yellow.png|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Yellow GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wpc95PinWikiGI-String4-Green.png|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wpc95PinWikiGI-String5-Purple.png|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Click on the thumbnails above for the full sized GI buzz image&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The clickable images above, in an animated gif...&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wpc95PinWikiGI-1-5.gif|center|An animated diagram of WPC-95 GI connections]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Twist Socket Lamp Not Lighting =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:wpc-lamp-board-twist-sockets.jpg|thumb|right|300px|A lamp board with twist sockets found in Terminator 2]]&lt;br /&gt;
Two things that can fail on lamp boards are individual lamp circuit diodes or the solder pads can develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot;, where the twist sockets make physical contact with the board.  To overcome the divots, simply add a little solder, and carefully reflow the solder pads. Make certain not to apply too much heat...just enough to evenly flow the solder.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With Fire!, a system 11 game, Williams started using lamp boards with .156&amp;quot; header connections for the lamp column and row lines.  This allowed for easy removal and service of the lamp boards. However, it introduced some new problems. Because the lamp boards used were single-sided, (this was presumably a cost analysis decision), the .156&amp;quot; header pins can develop cold solder joints and crack due to vibration. The problem can easily be rectified by removing the old solder from the header pins and applying fresh, new solder.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Typical issues with lamp board sockets and headers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following actions can help debug an individual socket failure:&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the non-working twist socket to another spot that is working. This will test that the bulb and socket itself are working. If not, replace the bulb, try to adjust the socket&#039;s contact legs, try to clean off the contact points if they are dirty, and if all that fails, replace the twist socket.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move a working twist socket into the position that is not working. If the socket works, the original socket may have been the problem. If the working socket also does not work in the non-working position, there is likely a problem with that position.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the connector, especially if it is an IDC connector. Sometimes a wire can pop out and lose connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the lamp board. Check the header pins for cracked solder joints and reflow the solder as necessary. Reinstall and test.&lt;br /&gt;
# [[General#Testing_a_Diode|Test the diodes with a multimeter]]. If any are bad, replace them. Make sure to orient the diode the same way that is indicated on the silkscreen. It&#039;s sometimes possible that a previous owner installed a diode the wrong way.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes the pads on the lamp board that the socket makes contact with get dirty or worn enough to put a divot in the metal. Clean off the contacts, and if that doesn&#039;t improve anything, tin the pads with a thin layer of solder.&lt;br /&gt;
# If none of this was successful, test for continuity between the lamp board and the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
# If wiring continuity checks out, [[#Controlled_Lamp_Operational_Description|troubleshoot the issue like any other controlled lamp]].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Controlled Lamp Operational Description =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WPC feature lamps are controlled from the WPC MPU and ultimately enabled via the driver board. The control signals are as follows.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 68B09EP places a data bit pattern on the data bus. This represents the lamp column to be strobed.&lt;br /&gt;
#The bit pattern is conveyed to the driver board via the ribbon cable between J211 on the MPU and J113 on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
#U9 on the driver board (a 74LS240) buffers the column bit pattern for U18 (a 74LS374).&lt;br /&gt;
#The ASIC on the MPU asserts the /LMP COL signal which &amp;quot;clocks&amp;quot; the data into U18 by pulsing pin 11.&lt;br /&gt;
#U18 outputs are connected to the ULN2803 at U20, which inverts the signal and enables one of eight TIP-107 Darlington transistors (Q91 thru Q98) that enable 18VDC to flow to the enabled column. This completes the column &amp;quot;strobe&amp;quot; portion of lamp matrix operation.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 68B09EP places a data bit pattern on the data bus. This represents the lamp rows to be strobed.&lt;br /&gt;
#The bit pattern is conveyed to the driver board via the ribbon cable between J211 on the MPU and J113 on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
#This bit pattern data is presented to four 74LS74s (Dual D-Type Flip-Flops) at U10 thru U13. This sets up a path to ground for the 18V lamp matrix power for each row enabled by the bit pattern&lt;br /&gt;
#The ASIC on the MPU asserts the /LMP ROW signal which &amp;quot;clocks&amp;quot; the data into U10 thru U13 via their &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; signal inputs.&lt;br /&gt;
#The (not) Q signal of each 74LS74 enables one of eight TIP-102 Darlington transistors (Q83 thru Q90) that provide the actual path to ground (through a .22 ohm 1 watt resistor) for the 18V lamp matrix power.&lt;br /&gt;
#&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;At this point, current flows from the enabled column circuitry, through the game wiring to the lamps, then through the row circuitry to ground for the rows that are enabled.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#The row enable signal is switched off when the LM339 comparators at U15 and U16 detect a voltage rise above the reference voltage present at pins 5, 7, 9, and 11 of both LM339s, via the &amp;quot;set&amp;quot; signal of each 74LS74 (U10 thru U13). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This process repeats itself over and over with the MPU cycling through columns 1 thru 8 while enabling specific rows, lighting lamps at the intersection of the enabled column and the enabled rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC089AlkalineDamagedLampMatrixEnable.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The column trace between the J211 dual row header and the ASIC chip socket (pin 63) clearly corroded away. The lamp row trace is immediately below the column trace and unaffected.]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are many possible causes for lamp matrix malfunctions. Some reasons, in order of probability are:&lt;br /&gt;
#Lack of 18V lamp matrix power. If LED6 is not lit, or TP8 shows other than 18V, &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; F114 for continuity with your DMM. If F114 is blown, test BR1 using the method specified [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier here].&lt;br /&gt;
#Failure of the row (TIP-102) or column (TIP-107) drive transistor. Both of these are easily diode tested and compared to the other 7 row/column drive transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
#For a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;column&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; failure: Failure of the ULN-2803 at U19. U19 works the same as U20 in the switch matrix, providing a periodic pulse to all columns.&lt;br /&gt;
#For a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;row&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; failure: Failure of a 74LS74 at U10/11/12/13. Again, these parts can either be diode tested for, better yet, use a logic probe to see if they are delivering the necessary pulses. Compare the operation of similar pins.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failure of the associated .22 ohm 1 watt resistor in the path between 18VDC lamp matrix power and ground (R150 for example).&lt;br /&gt;
#Poor connections between J211 on the MPU and J113 on the power/driver board. Sometimes, reseating the ribbon cable on both ends will &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the issue. Replace the ribbon cable and examine the dual row headers if the problem becomes chronic.&lt;br /&gt;
#Prior work on the power/driver board. The data bus runs completely across the power/driver board, stopping in at several 74LS374s (U1 thru U5) along the way. The signals pass through the board from component side to solder side at U9. If the same column and row of the lamp matrix are not lighting (i.e. column 5, row 5), it&#039;s a good bet that the signal for that row/column is compromised in the area of U9. The traces at each IC are delicate and it&#039;s tough for most hobbyists to remove a 20 pin IC without damaging the traces. It&#039;s particularly vexing to encounter a problem where a data signal is held low or high by one of the 74LS374s since each data signal is connected to all of them and even using [diode test] sometimes can&#039;t identify the faulty IC. Some techs will cut the data signal pin close to the PCB for a 74LS374, using the process of elimination to identify the culprit (not recommended). Enough said, but it&#039;s easily seen that power/driver boards can be damaged quite easily by the novice. Send it to a pro.&lt;br /&gt;
#Fatigued connections between the ASIC on the MPU and it&#039;s chip socket. Since the ASIC provides critical enable signals for the lamp matrix, reseating or [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Information.asp?region=139 retensioning] these pins is reasonable course of action. [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Removing_the_ASIC Use a PLCC removal tool] to safely remove the ASIC without damaging the socket.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failure of any of the ICs noted above. Each of these ICs can be tested with a DMM set to [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit diode test]&lt;br /&gt;
#Corrosion on the MPU that might have compromised the enable signals, as seen in the picture at right. Corrosion can and will attack under the header pins at J211 on the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Quick Test of Lamp Column Transistors&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CheckingLampColumnDriveTransistors.jpg|200px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Quick Test&amp;quot; for a shorted lamp column transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
If the game has an entire column of lamps locked on, there is a good chance that a lamp column transistor has shorted. Testing for this condition is very simple. Set your DMM to continuity. Touch one probe to the 18V lamp matrix test point as pictured at left. Touch the other probe to the tab of each of the TIP-107 transistors. Any that &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; are shorted and will need to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;General Lamp Matrix Testing&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control logic for the WPC lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using two jumper wires. The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the lamp matrix columns and rows.  The example applies to WPC-089 power/drive boards. The procedure is the same for WPC-95 power/driver boards, but the connector designations and transistor numbers differ. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Images authored by Sascha Voskuil, used with permission)&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing a working lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LampMatrixGeneralTesting.gif|center|General testing of the lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board. All columns operating normally.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Column 4 shorted in the lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LampMatrixColumn4Shorted.gif|center|Testing the lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board that has column 4 shorted.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Column 4 inoperative in the lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Note: In this animation, columns 4 and 2 are inoperative.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LampMatrixColumn4Inop.gif|center|Testing the lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board that has column 4 open (inoperative).]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We provide this section for completeness knowing that WPC games offer independent lamp row and column tests as part of the diagnostics.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP-107 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns.  Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it&#039;s function is to block current flow and prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix.  In this test we are connecting a single lamp at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to power/drive board connectors J133/134/135 (row) and J136/137/138 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug all connectors with red or yellow wires leading to them. These are the lamp matrix connections (lower right corner of power/driver board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and start &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to J137 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to J133 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on J137.  There is no pin 8 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a column doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q98&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q97&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q96&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q95&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q94&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q93&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q92&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q91&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]] &lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP-102 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to power/drive board connectors J133/134/135 (row) and J136/137/138 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug all connectors with red or yellow wires leading to them. These are the lamp matrix connections (lower right corner of power/driver board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and start &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to J133 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to J137 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on J133.  There is no pin 3 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a row doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q90&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q89&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q88&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q87&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Grn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q86&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q85&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q84&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q83&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Lamp Issue Caused by Connecting &amp;quot;Growth&amp;quot; Connectors =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCErroneousConnection-1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A misplaced connector on Judge Dredd. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chuck Sanderson, CP Pinball&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCErroneousConnection-2.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The connector, not connected, as it should be.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LampMatrixHeadache.jpg ‎|200px|thumb|left|Lamp Matrix failure &amp;quot;map&amp;quot; created when J136 is erroneously connected on Judge Dredd]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An issue that seems to come up fairly often is caused by literally placing a square peg into a round hole.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The images shown here from a Judge Dredd shows a &amp;quot;growth&amp;quot; connector wired from the factory that was never used during production. It happens to be in the proximity of J136, a lamp matrix connector and the wires are lamp matrix wires (colored red and colored yellow). One could almost be forgiven for forcing the female housing onto J136 even though the connector types are different.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With this connector in place, all kinds of lamp matrix havoc ensues as shown in one lamp matrix &amp;quot;error map&amp;quot; shown at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The solution is simple. Remove the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;All images provided by Chuck Sanderson, [https://cppinball.com/ CP Pinball]&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switches in WPC games fall into two categories, those within the switch matrix, and &amp;quot;direct&amp;quot; switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.  Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Built-in Switch Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
WPC games monitor switch closures as the game is played. If a switch is not activated after a certain number of balls (usually 30, but will vary depending on the switch in question), the game will show the &amp;quot;credit dot&amp;quot;, an indication to the operator that a switch may be faulty. Some switches are not often closed (like switch 55 located in the White Water pop bumper garden) and some switches simply aren&#039;t hit by rookie players (like the upper exit to the Twilight Zone mini playfield). Some switches will be marked non-operational immediately after a certain event where the switch is known to have been activated (switches related to The Shadow&#039;s brick wall drop target are one example; any error in the lock sequence causes the credit dot to light immediately).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a table held in NVRam that contains counters for all monitored switches.  Each ball served decrements the counter for each switch; as soon as that switch is hit on the playfield, the counter is reset to the initial value.  The credit dot gets lit when any counter for any monitored switch goes to zero. Switches such as flipper optos are set to very low initial values, as flippers are hit on every ball. It would have been possible to have higher values set for switches that would occasionally be activated but not often by novice players as noted above, however this aspect of the programming was rarely if ever used.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When a credit dot is lit, often the game will offer &amp;quot;switch compensation&amp;quot;, which was a Williams&#039; patented feature, that allowed a nearby or alternate switch to achieve the same result as hitting the original, marked non-operational, switch. This enabled a game with faulty switches to still be played close to the original gameplay. Sometimes the faulty switch will auto-clear itself when activated, but more often than not, the fault would have to be cleared manually. To clear a switch manually, enter the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test (as described below), and manually activate the switch.  If the switch in question is functioning properly, activating the switch will remove the credit dot.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first action to be taken is to enter diagnostics. The game will indicate the reason(s) for the credit dot on the display, upon pressing the enter button on the coin door to receive a test report.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the normal switch matrix is 8 by 8, games like Twilight Zone, Star Trek: The Next Generation, and Indiana Jones employ a 9th column of switches. These switches are tested via a dedicated switch test tied to the playfield feature. An example is the Star Trek: The Next Generation cannon switches.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====T.1 Switch Edges Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCSwitchTestExample.jpg|400px|thumb|left|An example switch matrix display, this one from Twilight Zone. Note the opto switches in column 7 (for example) are shown as boxed dots.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Switches can be tested by entering Test T.1, Switch Edges. Switch Edges Test presents an 8 by 8 switch matrix grid with one or two switch columns outside of the matrix.  The additionally columns are for dedicated switches. The left column is for switches located on the coin door (all WPC games), and the right column is for flipper cabinet and flipper EOS switches (WPC games which use a Fliptronics board - Addams Family and newer). Open switches show as a simple dot on the DMD. Closed switches show as a boxed dot on the DMD. Microswitches and leaf switches will show as a dot when open. Optos will show as a boxed dot when the opto beam is not being broken. The last closed switch name and number will be shown on the display along with the two wire colors that are connected to that particular switch. While in switch edges test, manually closing properly operating switches will be shown on the display.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====T.2 Switch Levels Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Direct Switch Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Direct switch operation&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Direct switches include:&lt;br /&gt;
*Left coin chute&lt;br /&gt;
*Center coin chute&lt;br /&gt;
*Right coin chute&lt;br /&gt;
*4th coin chute&lt;br /&gt;
*Service Credits/Escape (referred to as &amp;quot;escape&amp;quot; here)&lt;br /&gt;
*Volume down/Down&lt;br /&gt;
*Volume up/Up&lt;br /&gt;
*Begin Test/Enter&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Direct switches are not part of the WPC switch matrix. All of the direct switches are located on the coin door, and connect to the MPU at J205.  The MPU senses these switches individually, and apart from the switch matrix.  Therefore, isolation diodes are not used with direct switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, with the switch open, the LM339s at U16 and U17 compare 12V (supplied on the MPU to both the switch and to the LM339) with 5V (as a comparison level) and signals the 74LS240 at U15 that the switch is open. When the switch closes, it shorts the 12V to ground and the comparison at the LM339 then indicates to U15 that the switch is closed. U15 is &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot; by pin 48 of the ASIC (SW DIR), causing U15 to present its data to the data bus. The 6809/ASIC &amp;quot;debounces&amp;quot; the switch. Debouncing is not a factor to be considered here and doesn&#039;t factor in switch testing at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Direct Switch Pinout at J205 for both WPC and WPC-S MPUs&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Notes:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
:J205, pin 5 is the &amp;quot;key&amp;quot; pin.&lt;br /&gt;
:J205, pin 10 provides ground (black wire)&lt;br /&gt;
:J205, pin 11 is unused&lt;br /&gt;
:J205, pin 12 is an &amp;quot;enable&amp;quot; back to the coin door interface board&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Signal&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire color at J205&lt;br /&gt;
!MPU pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Diode&lt;br /&gt;
!LM339 &amp;amp; input pin&lt;br /&gt;
!U15 input pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Left chute&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;   || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D15&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U17-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Center chute&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;    || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D16&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U17-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;13&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Right chute&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U17-11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;15&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;4th chute&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;    || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D18&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U17-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Escape&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;       || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U16-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  ||  &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Down&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;         || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;blue&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;   || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U16-11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||  &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Up&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;           || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D13&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U16-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  ||  &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Enter&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;        || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Gray&amp;gt;gray&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;   || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D14&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U16-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  ||  &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Debugging direct switch problems&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To discover the problem as quickly as possible, we&#039;ll divide the problem into smaller pieces. We must first determine if the problem is on the MPU board or the problem lies with the wiring to the coin door and/or the specific switch. If your MPU has obvious alkaline damage at U15, U16, or U17, address the alkaline damage first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Begin testing with the game OFF.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/switch&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove connector J205 from the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Build a jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the jumper wire to the game&#039;s ground braid in the game head.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on&lt;br /&gt;
#Carefully touch the other end of your jumper wire to the appropriate pin on J205 as shown in the table.&lt;br /&gt;
#If the MPU carries out the function of the switch, the problem is not on the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#If the MPU does nothing, the problem is on the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Skip to the appropriate section below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Identifying problems NOT on the MPU&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the direct switch&#039;s path to ground&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Your game should still be turned off.&lt;br /&gt;
#DMM set to continuity.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to any game ground, like the lockdown bar or ground braid.&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on the solder joint between the switch and the black wire that provides ground. &lt;br /&gt;
#You should hear &amp;quot;tone&amp;quot;. If not, further diagnose the break in the black wire between the solder joint and game ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the direct switch itself&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead of your DMM still clipped to game ground.&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) of the switch under test.&lt;br /&gt;
#Depress the switch. You should hear &amp;quot;tone&amp;quot;. If not, the switch is defective and not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot;. See the section below that describes cleaning these switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the signal path to the MPU&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip the black lead of your DMM on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the connector plug at J205 from the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on the appropriate pin of J205 for the switch under test. See the table above. It&#039;s easiest to access the pin through the rectangular hole in the back of the connector where the pin&#039;s &amp;quot;tang&amp;quot; snaps in.&lt;br /&gt;
#You should hear &amp;quot;tone&amp;quot;. If not, there is a discontinuity in the wire between the direct switch and J205. Note that the coin door interface board is between these two points. The coin door interface board is a &amp;quot;pass-through&amp;quot; for these signals and rarely causes a problem. Still, reseating connectors J1, J3, and J4 on the coin door interface board might uncover the problem. More likely, the wire between J1 on the coin door interface board and J205 has a break in it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Identifying problems on the MPU&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the signal path through J205 and onto the MPU&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
J205 is right below the battery holder and as such, sometimes receives the unwanted gift of dripping alkaline from depleted batteries.  Carefully examine both the male and female connections of J205 for alkaline &amp;quot;greenies&amp;quot;. Assuming no alkaline damage...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Begin with your game turned off.&lt;br /&gt;
#Connect J205 to the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on the banded end of the appropriate diode shown in the table above.&lt;br /&gt;
#You should hear &amp;quot;tone&amp;quot;. If not, there is either a problem with the physical connection at J205 or the alkaline &amp;quot;greenies&amp;quot; are sneakier than you gave them credit for. Re-examine J205 and the surrounding area of the board for alkaline damage. The traces from the switch connectors are very small and it takes very little alkaline damage to compromise them. You may also re-pin the female side of J205.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point, a logic probe would be the best tool to use. You can pick up 5V power for your probe across the electrolytic cap at C31 which is immediately to the right of the battery holder. Black lead on the negative side (top of the cap). Red lead on positive side (bottom). The board is silkscreened with polarity markings. Set the logic probe to &amp;quot;CMOS&amp;quot; test mode, as you will be measuring 12VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you don&#039;t already have a logic probe, you should. Although for this test, you can still get by with your trusty DMM. Clip the black lead of your DMM to game ground. The ground braid in the head is a good place to pickup ground at this point. Set your DMM to DC volts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the LM339 inputs&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Start with the game turned off.&lt;br /&gt;
#Again, set your logic probe to &amp;quot;CMOS&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of your jumper wire to the appropriate pin of J205. Leave the other end of your jumper wire unconnected, but handy as you&#039;ll touch it to ground later.&lt;br /&gt;
#&amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;You now need to turn the game ON.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Measure the signal at the appropriate LM339&#039;s appropriate pin shown in the table above. Either place your logic probe on the pin or place the Red lead of your DMM on the pin. The signal should measure high (or about 12VDC with your DMM).&lt;br /&gt;
#Now, with your other hand, touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.&lt;br /&gt;
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high, then the pin isn&#039;t being grounded correctly. Candidates are a failed diode/resistor in the circuit, the board trace between the diode and the LM339 is compromised, or a badly failed LM339.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the LM339 outputs/74LS240 (U15) inputs&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your logic probe back to TTL as you will be measuring 0 - 5V signals&lt;br /&gt;
#Measure the signal at the appropriate pin (see table) of U15. The signal should measure high (or about 5VDC with your DMM).&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.&lt;br /&gt;
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high with the jumper wire grounded, then either the LM339 outputs have failed, the board trace between the LM339 and U15 is compromised, or the 74LS240 has failed and is corrupting the signal. You can test U15 using the procedure in the &amp;quot;How to...&amp;quot; section of PinWiki, [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The output side of U15 can&#039;t be tested effectively since that is the processor/ASIC data bus and should be constantly and irregularly changing states.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you&#039;ve followed this process step-by-step, you should have identified the problem with the signal and will be able to effectively perform the appropriate repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Cleaning direct switches&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Coming soon...will describe disassembly and cleaning...&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, several rigorous open/close cycles will &amp;quot;clean&amp;quot; corrosion from the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/diodes/switches&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow these steps to determine if the switch matrix problem is on the CPU or somewhere in the game wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove connectors J206/J207, J208/209 and J212 from the bottom of the CPU (J206 and J207 are electronically the same and J208 and J209 are electronically the same).&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one lead of a test jumper to pin one of J207 making sure you don&#039;t touch any of the nearby pins on J207.&lt;br /&gt;
#Power the game on, and enter Switch Edge test (you&#039;ve left J205 on the CPU so the diagnostics switches still work).&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to pin one on J209, then pin two and so on. You should see (and hear) the CPU indicate that switches #11, #12, #13, etc. are being &amp;quot;made&amp;quot; as you touch the pins of J209.  You should *never* see multiple switches being made.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper from J207 pin 1 to pin 2.  Re-test to every pin on J209, listening for the machine to read every switch as closed.  Continue in a similar manner testing each pin of J207 to every pin in J209.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following images, provided by Sascha Voksuil, grapically depict the above tests of the on-board switch matrix circuitry with a jumper wire. A diode is not required since the test jumpers directly from a single pin to a single pin. Remember, the purpose of switch diodes is switch isolation. Also, have no fear conducting this test. Unless you connect one end of the wire to high voltage, nothing can be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Switch matrix test ROWs1-8 with COL1.gif|left]][[File:Switch matrix test COLs1-8 with ROW1.gif|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If only one switch shows on the Switch Edge test for each pin combination, then the CPU&#039;s switch matrix is working properly and you can confidently assume that any switch problems lie elsewhere. Possibilities include a shorted wire, bad/broken/shorted diode, bad under playfield opto board, bad coin door interface board, etc. If the problem is observed with row 2 of the switch matrix, and you&#039;re game has a &amp;quot;-1 Power/Driver&amp;quot; board installed (the one with the flipper power relay), it is possible that one/both of the 4N25 opto-isolators on the power/driver board have failed. These opto-isolators communicate flipper switch closures for pre-FlipTronics games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If multiple switch closures are reported when you touch one pin of the connector, or if the CPU reports a row or column short, then there is a fault with the switch matrix circuitry on the CPU board itself. Be aware that an additional fault may still be present on the playfield. Switch matrix chips do not simply blow for no reason!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Blown ULN2803 (U20) Examples&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BlownULN2803.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;An obviously blown ULN2803 (U20) caused by shorting 50V coil power to the switch matrix. Ouch!&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WPCBlownULN2803.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Another obviously blown ULN2803...happens all the time...Don&#039;t work on your game with power on.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WOCBlownU14.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Another obviously blown ULN2803...the HV jolt also took out U14, a 74LS374 which buffers the ULN2803 from the processor data bus.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Catastrophic Failure of ULN2803 or Other Switch Matrix Parts&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CoilLugShortedToMetal.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Example jumper connection for testing the switch matrix. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;sturner&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CoilWrapperRubAE-23-800.jpg ‎|200px|thumb|right|A coil wrapper that has rubbed through to the copper windings due to long term vibration against a loose screw used to secure the coil bracket. This coil is from the &amp;quot;Thing Kickout&amp;quot; in &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Addams Family&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. It electrified the entire &amp;quot;thing&amp;quot; mechanism box and caused the ULN2803 to be destroyed. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of JT Amusements.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One fairly common reason that a ULN2803 or other switch matrix circuitry may blow is a short to coil power. In the picture at left, the coil that actuates the &amp;quot;Bridge Diverter&amp;quot; on the game &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Twilight Zone&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;, is touching the coil bracket on one side. Since coil power is present at both coil lugs (which is normal), a coil lug touching metal will conduct coil power to that metal. In this case, the coil bracket touches the bridge diverter piano wire and then the coil diverter and then the entire wireform. If a switch matrix solder tab or switch blade metal shorts to the wireform, poof! Get ready to replace the ULN2803.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another way for HV to destroy the ULN2803 and other switch matrix circuitry is shown at left. Here, the coil wrapper has worn through, and then the enamel coating on the coil winding rubbed away, causing a short of coil power to the coil bracket. Just as the instance above showed, this places coil power onto the coil bracket and anything touching it, including switches. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== MPU Circuitry Switch Matrix Problem Diagnosis =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Quick Switch Column Strobe Testing ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSwitchColumnStrobeBenchTest.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing the switch column strobes quickly with a logic probe. The picture also shows a convenient place to connect logic probe power leads.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A quick way to test that switch column strobes are working properly, is to use a logic probe as shown in the picture at left. Each pin of J206/J207 (all WPC MPU versions) should be pulsing high.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Further MPU Circuitry Diagnosis ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following image (authored by Sascha Voskuil, used with permission) will help diagnose particular ICs at fault on the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-089MPULayout.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Color Coded Switch Matrix Circuitry.click image to enlarge]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let&#039;s use the diagram above to walk through a simple &amp;quot;on board&amp;quot; switch matrix issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A board presented with very slight alkaline damage to U20, the ULN2803. After socketing, and replacing the ULN2803, column 3 still failed to strobe. We used out logic probe to determine that pin 16 of U20 was strobing. Therefore, there MUST have been an on board fracture of the trace. Setting our DMM to continuity, and buzzing between J206 pin 3 (marked with a gray &amp;quot;3&amp;quot; in the diagram) and U20 pin 16 failed. Moving our probe from J206 pin 3 to the junction of R69 and C13 (also marked with a gray &amp;quot;3&amp;quot; in the diagram) succeeded. However, buzzing between the junction of R69/C13 and U20 pin 16 succeeded. Using this information, we must conclude that the discontinuity in the trace was between J206 pin 3 and the junction of R69/C13.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSwitchMatrixCorrodedTraceAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A look under connector J206 showing alkaline corrosion damage. This caused column 3 of the switch matrix to malfunction.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows the problem. Once the J206 header was removed, we could see that alkaline had dripped onto the connector and leached down to the solder joint. The corrosion etched enough of the trace away to prevent connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSwitchMatrixHeaderCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A different board, with a similar problem at the header pins...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSwitchMatrixConnectorCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|right|...and the matching female housings.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows another WPC-089 MPU board with a similar problem, but much worse. This board was the victim of dripping alkaline which invaded the trace which runs under the &amp;quot;C17&amp;quot; label to J206-9 and J207-9.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at right shows the female connector housings that were the victim, and transportation medium, for the alkaline corrosion. The connector on the left required repinning. The connector on the right showed only light damage which was cleaned up with a vinegar swab.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ImprovedSwitchMatrixDiagram.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Switch Matrix Circuit Operation. Note: Colors are coordinated with the prior diagram (authored by Sascha Voskuil, used with permission).  Click image to enlarge.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Cabinet Flipper Switch Detection Problem Diagnosis for Pre-FlipTronics Games =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCOptoIsolators.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Dual 4N25 Opto Isolators on the &amp;quot;-1&amp;quot; version of the WPC Power/Driver board can be seen in the top center of this picture (two 6 leg ICs at U7 and U8).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pre-FlipTronics games detect closure of the flipper cabinet switches via two 4N25 Opto Isolators on the &amp;quot;-1&amp;quot; version of the power/driver board. If the &amp;quot;cursor&amp;quot; can&#039;t be moved during entry of HSTD initials or if the cabinet flipper buttons don&#039;t control video mode correctly, there is a good chance that one/both of the 4N25 opto isolators is shot. Games that may be affected include:&lt;br /&gt;
*Funhouse&lt;br /&gt;
*Harley-Davidson&lt;br /&gt;
*The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot&lt;br /&gt;
*Gilligan&#039;s Island&lt;br /&gt;
*Slugfest&lt;br /&gt;
*Terminator 2: Judgement Day&lt;br /&gt;
*Hurricane&lt;br /&gt;
*Party Zone&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCEarly-1PowerDriverBoard4N25.jpg|457px|thumb|left|Illustration provided by, and used with the permission of, Sascha Voskuil aka &amp;quot;Zaza&amp;quot;..]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The image at left illustrates the switch matrix connection between the 4N25 Opto Isolators on the Power/Driver board and the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSwitchRowSchematicError.jpg|457px|thumb|left|Illustration provided by, and used with the permission of, Sascha Voskuil aka &amp;quot;Zaza&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some revisions of the WPC schematics contain an error, as illustrated by the image at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, testing an opto coupler is simple using the diode test function provided by most DMMs. Set the DMM to diode test, compare results against those pictured below (this test conducted on a 4N25 contained on a System 11 Interconnect Board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Testing a 4N25 Opto Coupler&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Internal.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The internal schematic of the 4N25. Pins 1 and 2 connect to an internal diode (LED). Pins 4 thru 6 connect to a PNP photo transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test3.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the diode connected to pins 1 and 2. Red on pin 1, black on pin 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test2.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 5, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test1.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 4, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Special Note regarding RottenDog Power/Driver boards manufactured prior to February, 2012 ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCRottenDog4N25Error.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Illustration provided by, and used with the permission of, Sascha Voskuil aka &amp;quot;Zaza&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
RottenDog aftermarket power/driver boards manufactured prior to February, 2012 contain a trace layout/connection error that exchanges the function of the two 4N25 Opto Isolators on the board. That is, the 4N25 that should report a left flipper closure actually reports a right flipper closure, and vice-versa. This error can be corrected via two cuts and two jumpers, as illustrated in the image at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCRottenDog4N25ErrorCorrected.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Image provided by, and used with the permission of, PinSider &amp;quot;troxel&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shown at left is the correction implemented by PinSider &amp;quot;troxel&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCRottenDog4N25ErrorCorrected1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Image provided by, and used with the permission of, PinSider &amp;quot;troxel&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The same image, annotated by Pinsider &amp;quot;zaza&amp;quot;, calls out the need for caution when making this mod. As can be seen, 75VDC is present in the area. A better implementation might be to route the jumper wires around the 4N25 instead of under it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== WPC95 Flipper Cabinet Switch Processing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95CabinetSwitchCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Corrosion between pins 9 and 10 on this WPC-95 MPU caused a short between cabinet flipper switch circuits resulting in both flippers actuating when either cabinet switch was closed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:J212Corrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Corrosion on some of these pins caused erratic cabinet switch operation.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 system implementation moved the cabinet flipper button and EOS switch sensing from the FlipTronics II board to the MPU board. Simple voltage level comparison via LM339s senses shorts to ground for those switches. The connector that cabinet switch wiring is connected to (J212) is directly below the battery holder where leaky batteries can &amp;quot;drip&amp;quot; onto the connector, corroding both under the connector and the pins on the connector. Corrosion can cause many odd problems. If this happens, the corrosion can cause the flipper buttons to be sensed intermittently and/or incorrectly. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is one case of corrosion impacting flipper operation. The corrosion caused the circuit to sense that both of the cabinet flipper buttons had been pressed when only one had been pressed. Standard alkaline corrosion cleanup takes care of this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switches====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Basic Operation=====&lt;br /&gt;
Williams opto switches are comprised of a &amp;quot;transmitter&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;receiver&amp;quot; opto, which are each unique parts. This is different from later Sega and some Stern game systems where the optos that serve as transmitter and receiver are identical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transmitter opto is housed in a white plastic frame. It is powered by unregulated 12VDC. If the opto is good, measuring either solder joint of the opto should read about 12VDC as long as the game is turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the ball trough uses these opto transmitters also. Orient the ball trough transmitter flat side as is silkscreened on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:OptoTransmitter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The solder side of a typical Williams opto transmitter.]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:OptoTransmitterLED.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The component side of a typical Williams opto transmitter. When replacing the opto, orient the flat side toward the &amp;quot;K&amp;quot; (equivalently, orient the &amp;quot;short&amp;quot; leg of the opto toward the &amp;quot;K&amp;quot;)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The receiver opto is housed in a black plastic frame. This &amp;quot;IR detector&amp;quot; opto conducts the 12VDC supplied to it, as long as the transmitter&#039;s &amp;quot;light&amp;quot; is cast upon it. Once the transmitter light is removed, the opto no longer conducts the 12VDC. Typically, circuitry on an &amp;quot;opto switch board&amp;quot; interprets the lack of 12VDC using an LM339 comparator, and indicates that the switch is open. Remember that the &amp;quot;sense&amp;quot; of opto switches is reversed from regular &amp;quot;hard&amp;quot; switches such as leaf switches and micro-switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the ball trough uses these opto receivers also. Orient the ball trough receivers flat side so that the leg on the flat side is furthest away from the &amp;quot;ear&amp;quot; that is silkscreened on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:OptoReceiver.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The solder side of a typical Williams opto receiver.]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:OptoReceiverLED.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The component side of a typical Williams opto receiver with an aftermarket receiver LED. When replacing the opto, orient the flat side toward the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; (equivalently, orient the &amp;quot;short&amp;quot; leg of the opto toward the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot;). OEM LEDs have an &amp;quot;ear&amp;quot; that matches the silkscreen on the board]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Opto Testing=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:OptoTestingWithDigitalCamera.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing an opto &amp;quot;sending&amp;quot; unit with a digital camera. This opto pair senses &amp;quot;Rudy Hits&amp;quot; in Funhouse. The white opto housing can be seen (upside down)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;sending side&amp;quot; or transmitter side of an opto pair, which should be housed in a white plastic frame, can be tested with just about any digital camera. In the picture at left, an iPhone camera was used to clearly see the purplish glow of a working opto sender.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;receiving side&amp;quot; of an opto pair, which should be housed in a black plastic frame, can be tested with just about any strong incandescent flashlight. Note that an LED flashlight does not typically work too well for this test.  Place the game in switch test. Block the sending opto that would normally illuminate the receiver under test. Shine your bright incandescent flashlight on the reciever opto. The switch state as shown on the display should change.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====7 Opto Board Testing=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:7OptoBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An example WPC 7 Opto Board, as found in AFM, WH2O, and many other WPC games.]] &lt;br /&gt;
The 7-Opto Board (A-14977, A-15576, A-15595) pictured at right, can be tested &amp;quot;in-situ&amp;quot; with a simple jumper wire and a DMM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Procedure&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Test the LM339 comparators&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the game into switch test (T.1)&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the balls from the game to prevent them from crashing down on the playfield (or stuff a rag into the ball loading hole)&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the playfield in the vertical position&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the J2 connector on the 7 opto board&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of a jumper to J2/pin 10&lt;br /&gt;
#In turn, touch the other end of the jumper to pins 1 through 7 of J2&lt;br /&gt;
#With each connection, a opto switch activation should be enunciated on the display&lt;br /&gt;
#If all 7 switch activations are enunciated, this proves that all of the LM339 comparator circuits are working. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Test the 12VDC power supply circuits&lt;br /&gt;
#Set a DMM to DC volts (less than 20 if not using an auto-ranging DMM)&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the J1 connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip the black lead of a DMM to J1/pin 10 (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
#With the DMM red lead, measure DC voltage at pins 1 through 8 (excluding pin 4)&lt;br /&gt;
#Each pin should measure about 12VDC&lt;br /&gt;
#If all 7 pins measure about 12VDC, this proves that each of the 12V power circuits (and the 270 ohm current limiting resistors) are working.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a game opto pair fails to function properly, yet both of the above tests pass, then either the opto transmitter or receiver has failed or the wire/connector connection between the opto board and one/both playfield optos has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;quot;Jittery&amp;quot; Opto Switches ====&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible for all opto switches in the game to act erratically. This can be difficult to diagnose because the problem can manifest itself in various ways during game play.  For instance, the bulldozer blade in &amp;quot;Roadshow&amp;quot; may occasionally be unable to find it&#039;s home position.  Or, the auto launcher in &amp;quot;Twilight Zone&amp;quot; may seem to want to launch a ball when none is present. Since the cabinet flipper switches are sometimes optos as well, the game&#039;s flippers may also behave strangely.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first step is to check the optos in switch edge test. If the optos appear to blink on and then off, when the actual physical state of the opto is open, suspect an issue with the unregulated 12VDC voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Measure for about 12VDC at TP1 on the power/driver board. If the voltage is significantly below 12VDC (i.e. around 10VDC) then there may be a problem with the bridge rectifier at BR5 or the 15,000uf filter capacitor at C30. Examine the solder joints at C30, especially if that capacitor has been replaced in the past. A damaged through hole may effectively remove the filter cap from the circuit, AC voltage will remain in the power circuit, and the optos will be flakey.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use your DMM to [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier test the bridge rectifier] and to &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between the solder joints at the cap and the appropriate legs of BR5. If this connection is flakey, repair it using a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 solder stitch] or connect jumpers from the C30 to BR5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Other Switch &amp;quot;Jitter&amp;quot; Reasons====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-C2-Leaking.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A leaky electrolytic cap at C2 caused the &amp;quot;digital&amp;quot; 12V to drop to about 10.5VDC.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The electrolytic cap C2 in the regulated 12VDC circuit leaks quite often, eroding the traces, sometimes severing the connection completely and sometimes reducing the 12VDC power output to something lower. This can wreak havoc on the switch matrix as the regulated 12VDC is used by the LM339 comparators on the MPU board to detect switch closures. Normal cleanup procedures can be used; wipe clean, sand as necessary, retin traces, and replace the cap with a 100uf/35VDC cap (an upgrade).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Sub-microswitch Issues ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCMicroSwitch.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A typical micro-switch and wireform.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some WPC games have an issue with micro-switches that are heat damaged during game assembly. When soldering the wire lead(s) onto the switch, flux leaches into the switch body and, over time, causes the switches to become &amp;quot;sticky&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game switches from smoky environments often become intermittent or fail. You may be able to repeatedly actuate the switch with your finger and get it to work for a game session, but when you return to the game later, the switch will have failed again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tightening the screws too tightly on the switch can damage the switch internals making the switch intermittent.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switches in games that were played on location for many years simply wear out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When micro-switches are damaged or past their useful lifetime, there is nothing to repair, adjust, or clean inside them.  Simply replace them for reliable operation. You can purchase generic switch bodies and transfer the wireform carefully to the new body. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Wiring====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SwitchWiringSchematic.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Williams Individual Switch Connection Schematic. The green wire is the switch column. The white wire is the switch row.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams switches are always wired the same. The white (plus tracer) colored wire (row) always attaches to the same solder lug as the NON-banded end of the diode. The green (plus tracer) colored wire (column) always attaches to a lug by itself. The banded end of the diode always attaches to a lug by itself. This creates the following circuit, shown schematically at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The picture gallery below provides an example of correct wiring for different types of switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Connections for Various Types of Williams Switches&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:StandUpSwitchWiring.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Slingshot Switch. The Green and White wires go off-frame to the other slingshot switch in the pair.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:StandUpSwitchWiring-A.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Standup Target&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PopBumperSwitchWiring.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Typical Pop Bumper Switch&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:MicroSwitchWiring.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Older Style Micro Switch&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SubMicroSwitchWiring.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Pervasive Sub-MicroSwitch&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ReedSwitchWiring.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Reed Switches, as found in Cactus Canyon and NBA Fastbreak. The diodes are located elsewhere.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Display problems are usually the result of failing dot matrix displays themselves, flakey ribbon cables or connectors, ribbon cables installed &amp;quot;one row off&amp;quot; (or even one column off), failing high voltage sections of the dot matrix controller board, and rarely logic IC problems on the dot matrix controller board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start by checking the easy things first...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Reseat the narrow ribbon cable between the DMD controller board and the DMD.&lt;br /&gt;
#Reseat the wide ribbon cables from the MPU to the DMD controller.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure each ribbon cable is correctly mated, and not &amp;quot;one row off&amp;quot; or even &amp;quot;one column off&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Panel Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The display panel itself may have problems. The glass component has a limited life. The continued electrical discharge releases gases inside the display, which eventually stop the pixels from glowing, and the dots will slowly fade over time. If the voltages are too high, the panel will show sparkles, clouds or ghosting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====DMD Repair Warnings====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Be careful when repairing the DMD Controller Boards, you are dealing with High Voltages when the boards are running&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
A good safety measure is to put one hand in a back pocket (or behind your back) when testing voltages. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s also fairly easy to lift traces on the PCB or ruin the &#039;through holes&#039; when removing components.  If this happens, you may have to check continuity and &#039;stitch&#039; the component hole with a thin wire strand. It&#039;s a good idea to practice on some useless PCB boards first, before taking on the DMD Controller Boards.  For details on a stitch see the  [[General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22| &amp;quot;How to Stitch&amp;quot;]] section of the Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;If you do not have decent soldering and de-soldering skills, DMD HV work should be left to a professional.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HV Repair Kits and advice are available from&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com Ed at Great Plains Electronics]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WPC95-HVP-KIT WPC-95 HV REPAIR KIT]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WPC-HVP-KIT  WPC HV REPAIR KIT]&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;GPE kits do not contain capacitors, which can be ordered separately as needed&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HV Repair Kits and advice are also available from&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
[http://LockWhenLit.com Rob Anthony at Pinball Classics]&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://LockWhenLit.com/Products.aspx WPC-95 or WPC HV REPAIR KIT]&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;Indicate in the notes section of the order if you need the WPC or the WPC-95 HV kit, Pinball Classics kits do contain the 150µF 160V capacitors&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bally/Williams and Data East have similarities with the 128x32 display and the display itself is interchangeable between manufacturers.  DMDs have a limited lifetime and will eventually outgas.  Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Score_Display_Issues | information about outgassing displays]] in the Data East section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Testing DMD Controller Power====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingDMDVoltagesAtTheDMDConnector.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing DMD Controller voltages at the display]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
After you&#039;ve checked the easy things, measure the voltages supplied by the DMD controller to the DMD display panel. To test the DMD controller voltages, first open the backbox, and rest the DMD panel face down on the glass. The simplest place to test the voltages provided by the DMD controller is at the display end of the power wire bundle as shown in the picture. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;SAFETY WARNING: Your left hand should be in your pocket, to avoid a potentially serious shock. We are working with high voltages, so be VERY CAREFUL. Keeping one hand in your pocket is a good practice to follow as it eliminates the easy electric current pathway across your heart. A DMD controller provides enough electric current to kill you!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:OverDrivenDMDDisplay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A manifestation of overdriving a DMD with too much voltage.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Most high voltage problems are lack of the proper voltage levels. This results in no display at all. It is possible however, for the high voltage circuitry to fail in such a way that too much voltage is supplied. Or, a game might be jumpered for a lower expected voltage but connected to higher voltage. This manifests as a &amp;quot;plasma&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;cloudy&amp;quot; look on the display, as shown on the left. Note that this looks very much like an outgassed display.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCDotPowerTest.gif|200px|thumb|left|Testing AC input voltages to the DMD Controller board. Click on the image to show the animation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image provided by Sascha Voksuil aka Pinsider Zaza.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the display image has a &amp;quot;plasma&amp;quot; affect or a &amp;quot;cloudy&amp;quot; look, it&#039;s a good idea to test the input voltage to the DMD Controller board, as depicted in the animated image at left. Nominal voltages are 80VAC and 100VAC. If measurements indicate voltages significantly higher than the nominal voltages, ensure the voltage select jumpers are correct, as discussed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Primary_Voltage_Selection_Jumpers_at_the_Transformer here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The dot matrix display needs three voltages to operate. Williams designed the DMD controller to drive the the DMD display panel just a bit below its specified voltages, presumably to extend the life of the panel. You can find the specification of a panel [http://www.vishay.com/docs/37006/apd128g.pdf here]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Place the black lead of the DMM under the ground braid in the game&#039;s head or use clip leads to secure the black lead to ground. Remember, you are working one-handed, so this becomes a necessity. Place the red lead of your DMM on each of the pins supplying power as shown in the picture. At some point in the production of DMD controllers, Williams changed the Anode and offset voltages from about -124VDC and -112VDC to about -112VDC and -100VDC. As long as there is a 12VDC difference between the Anode and 12VDC offset voltages, your DMD controller is providing correct voltage levels.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;J604 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Spec&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;nominal WPC voltage&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Anode        || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;-110V&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;-112V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;-124V in early DMD machines&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;12VDC Offset&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||  &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;-98V&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;-100V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Must be 12V less than anode voltage. Will be about 20V less than anode voltage if display not connected&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Key          || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||                        ||                              ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground       || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||                        ||                              ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground       || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||                        ||                              ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;5VDC         || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||    &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5V&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;5V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;    ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;12VDC        || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||   &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;12V&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;12V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;   ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Cathode      || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||   &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;75V&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;62V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;   || &amp;amp;nbsp;Williams runs this voltage low&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the high voltages are off by more than a few volts, turn the game off, disconnect the power connector at the DMD controller, and test the voltages at the DMD controller male header pins. If the voltages return to nominal WPC voltages, the zener diodes on the DMD controller are probably OK but the resistors and transistors around them are suspect. As shown in the table above, if DMD controller power is not connected to the display, the nominal 12VDC offset will be about 20VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that a failing or failed DMD display glass can drag these voltages down. Before you begin any work on the DMD controller board, perform the above test with the DMD display power disconnected. If the voltages return to nominal WPC voltages, it&#039;s possible that your display is the culprit. Test the DMD controller with a known good display to isolate the fault to either the DMD controller or the display panel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LowHVSupply.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Measuring for 62VDC, and finding only 19.95VDC. The result of this low component of the high voltage trio can be seen in the picture. The manifestation is similar to an outgassed display. The display is showing &amp;quot;FREE PLAY&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For the 62V and -112V circuits Williams used a relatively sophisticated regulator circuit. The problem is, the resistors and diodes dissipate quite a lot of heat. In a warm operating environment, this leads to burned components and circuit boards. The board traces are often weakened. Repair in the area is tricky.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a description of the function of the parts in the -112V circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q1 is an output buffer. It just follows the voltage set at the top of zener diode D2.&lt;br /&gt;
Q2 and Q3 form a constant current 5mA driver for  the diode.&lt;br /&gt;
Q2 is a current control for D2. By pulling on the base of Q2, the zener current can be reduced to compensate for the diode leaking as it&lt;br /&gt;
warms.&lt;br /&gt;
Q3 is a current sensor for D2. Note the very low 120 ohm resistor. If D2 passes more than 5mA, Q3 will start to turn on, and reduce the current through the diode by pulling on the base of Q3. So the zener diode always operates at 5mA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transistors can be tested in circuit, just watch out for the 120 ohm resistors across the base and emitter of Q3.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board is subject to transistor shorts, which can also blow out the resistors. Open resistors are a common problem if Q2 and Q3 are bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Slow Animations====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Pre-DCSSoundCardSolderBridge.jpg|thumb|200px|left|A solder bridge formed on a pre-DCS sound card, affecting speed of display animations.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Slow animations along with sound synced to the animation is a very unusual problem. It is caused by a manufacturing defect in pre-DCS sound boards. As shown at left, an imperfect solder mask led to a solder bridge connecting pins 31 (R/W, read/write) and 34 (FIRQ) on the solder side of the sound board. By connecting the FIRQ signal and the R/W signal, the whole system slows down due to extraneous FIRQ interrupts to the MPU ASIC. The correction for this is straightforward, remove the solder bridge.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TZSlowAnimations.jpg|thumb|200px|left|A screen shot from the YouTube video showing slow animations on a Twilight Zone.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video of this problem can be found [http://www.youtube.com/embed/gThgBHVuwio?autoplay=1&amp;amp;rel=0 here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A PinSide thread leading to this solution can be found [http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-slow-dmd-animations-and-parts-suggestions here].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====&amp;quot;SuperScript or SubScript&amp;quot; Characters====&lt;br /&gt;
One of the more interesting display failures is the appearance of characters on some display formats that appear to be shifted up/down 1/2 character or SuperScripted/SubScripted. The cause of this failure is not the display or the dot controller. This failure is caused by a poor connection between the ASIC on the MPU board and it&#039;s socket. Reseating the ASIC generally solves this problem. You can &amp;quot;retension&amp;quot; the ASIC leads using this [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/tech_wms_asics.asp method] provided by Ed at GPE.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Super/Subscripted Characters&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DisplaySuperScript.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Superscripted characters...&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DisplaySubScript.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Subscripted characters...&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;quot;Rolling&amp;quot; Horizontal Line on WPC-95 Display ====&lt;br /&gt;
This problem resembles an old CRT with a vertical hold problem. A wide horizontal line &amp;quot;rolls&amp;quot; through the display from top to bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This problem is easily rectified by replacing C28 and C42 on the Audio/Video board. The original value of these radial capacitors was 150µF/160V. If the original valued capacitors can&#039;t be located, the more common 220µF/160V cap is a good replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Outgassing Displays ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:OutGassedDMDDisplay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An &amp;quot;outgassed&amp;quot; display on a Williams FishTales during display test (all pixels should be on except the single vertical line). This display took several minutes to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;. The plasma seemed to &amp;quot;float&amp;quot; with various portions at the top of the display appearing dark.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
:DMDs will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display as they place extra strain on the power supply, and will eventually damage the power supply. One sign of an outgassing display is that areas of the display need to &#039;warm up&#039; before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Outgassing displays look very much like a display that is being overdriven by too much voltage. The acid test is to measure the high voltage using the technique described later in this section.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Display is &amp;quot;delayed&amp;quot; after turn on ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are cases of import machines incorporating an aftermarket circuit that delays the DMD display from appearing for a fixed amount of time after the game is booted. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information could not be ween when the machine is powered on, thereby preventing identification of a game and potential sales/operation outside a given geographic area. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard.  More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====&amp;quot;Snow&amp;quot; on Display====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Snow&amp;quot; in this case means rapidly flowing, left to right, &amp;quot;sprays&amp;quot; of dots, almost like can be seen when &amp;quot;spraying&amp;quot; the gun while moving it left to right in Attack from Mars video mode, but much faster.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of this in at least one case was found to be a failed 74HC74 (dual D-Type Flip-Flop) at U4. Pin 5 is the &amp;quot;serial clock&amp;quot; signal to the DMD display. Diode testing indicated that the gate had failed. Replacement of the IC returned the board to normal service.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Fuse F601 or F602 blows====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCDMDControllerBridgeTestingStep1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing the bridge, step 1, red lead on negative.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC DMD controller rectifies AC voltage via two small 1 amp bridge rectifiers. If a bridge shorts, generally the associated fuse will blow. Sometimes the current draw on the other side of the bridge is so great that the fuse blows too. Whatever the reason, the bridge can be easily tested using the same general bridge testing technique.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The pin layout for these small bridges is different from the larger 35A bridges on the power/driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Begin with your DMM set to diode check, and the red probe on the leg marked with a negative sign as shown in the picture at left. Placing the black lead on each of the AC legs in turn should yield a reading between .5 and .7 volts. If your measurements fall outside of this range, replace the bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCDMDControllerBridgeTestingStep2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing the bridge, step 2, black lead on positive.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Next, move the black probe to the leg marked with a positive sign as shown in the picture at left. Placing the red lead on each of the AC legs in turn should yield a reading between .5 and .7 volts. If your measurements fall outside of this range, replace the bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ArcToGroundBlowsF601.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The circled area clearly shows where this trace arced to ground.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another reason for F601 to blow is shown at left. Some revisions of the DMD Controller routed the trace from one side of BR1&#039;s AC power to F601 too close to the lower right screw that secures the board to the backbox ground. If the star washer for this screw bites through the solder mask, this creates a direct path to ground, blowing F601, as it should. This can be corrected by either leaving the screw out, using a nylon washer, or using a nylon screw. Any of these three methods will work fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Schematic Diagram for WPC and WPC-95 DMD Controller Board====&lt;br /&gt;
This link explains my experience repairing a Twilight Zone (&#039;93 WPC) DMD Controller Board.&lt;br /&gt;
Also repaired the actual display PCB, which was damaged from a from a faulty +62v circuit:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.firepower.2ya.com/4-TZ-dmd-repair.html TZ DMD Controller Board Repair]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematic for DMD HV section WPC only (adapted from TZ manual):&lt;br /&gt;
[http://firepowerpinball.com/2ya/tz/wpc-dmd-hv-tz.pdf WPC DMD HV]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematic for DMD HV section WPC95 only (adapted from AFM manual):&lt;br /&gt;
[http://firepowerpinball.com/2ya/tz/wpc95-dmd-hv-afm.pdf WPC95 DMD HV]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here’s a schematic with a list of the parts needed for both WPC and WPC-95 high voltage section repairs. the two boards are similar in the high voltage regulation sections.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DotControllerHVIcon.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Click on the hyperlink at right for the .pdf of this circuit.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/e/e6/Wpc-dmd-hv-all.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-089-HV-CheatSheet.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Click on the hyperlink at right for the .pdf HV section cheatsheet.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/c/cd/WPC-HV-Section.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another area which will help with troubleshooting the DMD Controller Board can be found in the DE section of the PinWiki (DE copied the Williams board designs), [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#PS_520-5047-01_-_High_Voltage_Missing_at_the_DMD_display Data East High Voltage Repair].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following images of a fairly crispy WPC-089 DMD controller will assist you in ensuring that all traces are repaired.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;DMD Controller, High Voltage Section Parts removed&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DMDControllerFrontSideTraces.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Front side traces. The yellow line shows where a trace had burned off of this board.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DMDControllerRearSideTraces.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Rear side traces.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Heat Damaged Trace Under R9 ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCDotControllerRoastedTrace.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The burn spot in the center of this picture obliterated the trace that runs from R3/C4 to R11, indicated by the yellow line.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Resistor R9 eats a lot of current and becomes very hot, especially as the associated circuit components age. This damages the trace and PCB beneath it, sometimes to the extent that the trace is severed. &amp;quot;Buzzing&amp;quot; the connection between C4 and R11 is a simple test to ensure continuity of this trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Failed RAM====&lt;br /&gt;
Most failures of the DMD controller that are not attributed to the high voltage section are caused by failed 6264 static RAM at U24. Since the RAM is very susceptible to electrostatic discharge, they are often damaged by improper handling. Sometimes, they just fail. Failure of this RAM manifests in many ways, including some shown below. At the very end of &amp;quot;display test&amp;quot; the MPU performs a read/write test of the RAM. If the MPU is able to communicate properly with the DMD controller, writing to and reading from the 6264 at U6, then the message &amp;quot;RAM TEST OK&amp;quot; is shown on the display. Any other message indicates a failure of the test. Test failure may be due to the I/O buffers on either the MPU or the DMD controller, the ribbon cable, or the actual RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] A YouTube video of a successful display test can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IK6PZL8I5o here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Page Errors====&lt;br /&gt;
There are 2 pages of 16 memory locations (0 to 15) stored in RAM on the DMD controller board. In the Display diagnostics it will run the page test and display any possible faults on either the low page or the high page (page 1 and 2 respectively) If you are only seeing errors on page 1, look to change out U33, most likely at least one output stuck high (pins 2,7,10,15). Page 2 errors the likely culprit is U35. Both devices are 74LS175. If you are seeing the same errors on both page tests, most likely it will be U16, a 74LS157, which is the A/B selector between the two page addresses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Page errors will also throw up a RAM address error. The RAM is not at fault, just how it is addressed by the page selectors. It should clear after attending to the above&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the coin door buttons for advance/go back can be held down to quickly move through display test.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=100px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Various display issues resulting from failed 6264 RAM on the WPC-089 DMD Controller board.&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BadRAM-1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Example 1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BadRAM-2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Example 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BadRAM-3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Example 3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BadRAM-4.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Example 4&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BadRAM-5.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Example 5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Blown6264.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;This random pattern caused by a blown 6264 RAM. It was blown by sending Flipper Coil power (nominally 70VDC) down the data lines (D0-D7).&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Failures of Various Logic ICs on the DMD Controller====&lt;br /&gt;
The following images represent various failures associated with specific ICs on the DMD Controller board. Of course, the specific way that an IC fails will influence what is displayed. That is, your mileage may vary.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCDotControllerU1Failure.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U1 - 74HCT138 - evenly distributed non-moving &amp;quot;snow&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The display works in the game and attract-mode but in the test menu it shows nothing. U31 and/or U32 was defective. Think the opposite when the display shows nothing its worth to go into the test because possible it shows only the test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the display shows nothing but the data between U31 and U32 seems to be good and also there is data on BD0...BD7 to U29. Test Pin 2 of U29. If there is no clock then follow the line in the schematic to U20. There must be a clock at Pin 1. If no clock coming out from U17 Pin 9 the display shows nothing. After replace U17 the clock signal was there but corrupted from IC U4. After replace U4 too the DMD controller works.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The display shows nothing. The following lines send data to the display SERIAL_DATA SERIAL_CLOCK COLUMN_LATCH ROW-WRITE but ROW-DATA is static High or Low. U13 was defect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before going any further, check all of the basics in the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting] section. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Sound Board Interface Error ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface&amp;quot; error occurs when the MPU board can not communicate properly with the sound board at boot up. There could be several reasons for this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Ribbon connector not properly seated. The ribbon to the sound board(s) originates at J202 on the MPU board, goes to the FlipTronics board, then to the sound board (whether pre-DCS or DCS), then on to the DMD controller board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed ribbon cable. Due to over-flexing, the ribbon may have failed.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mismatched ROMs between the MPU and sound board. This isn&#039;t as big of an issue as with Data East games, but updating the game ROM to a newer version while leaving the sound ROMs at an older, even prototype version, could cause this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder bridges, or corrosion under the ribbon connector.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed I/O buffer ICs on either the sound board or on the MPU board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On &#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;DCS sound boards&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;, U18 buffers data &#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;from&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039; the MPU. U19 buffers data &#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;to&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039; the MPU. Testing these ICs using the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit this method] should yield similar results to the values listed below. Note that this test method can&#039;t identify either a good or a bad integrated circuit with 100% certainty but using this test is preferable to removing chips unnecessarily. These readings were taken using a Fluke 179 DMM. Different meters, different manufacturers chips, and even individual variation in manufacture will probably cause your readings to be slightly different, yet consistently different. i.e. If the table shows .657 and your meter yields .630, then every pin listed at .657 should read close to .630 with your meter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Probe pin 10 with the DMM red lead. Probe each of the other pins with the black lead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Diode Test Value U18&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Diode Test Value U19&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;1&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.583&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.580&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;2&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.519&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.659&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WPCSoundBoardInterfaceErrorCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Corrosion in the area of a critical signal caused a &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface Error&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The root cause of a &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface Error&amp;quot; on a Star Trek:The Next Generation game is shown at left. The corrosion on the trace leading to pin 28, created a conductive bridge to pin 29, which is a critical signal to the sound board (WDEN).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCpreDCSSoundBoardSolderBridgeatU16.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A solder bridge at the circled location (U16), connecting pin 7 of the IC (ground) to the via and hence connecting pin 2 to ground, manifested as a &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface Error&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another physical PCB problem pictured at left (but repaired), caused a &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface Error&amp;quot;. The sounds on this board operated fine since the error was in the hardware that talks back to the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A similar problem can be the cut component lead just left above the yellow circle. If it is bend towards the printed trace and making contact, it can also manifest itself as the &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface Error&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shorting the Speaker Leads or a Shorted Speaker ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BlownTDA2030.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Clearly, a major malfunction.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A blown sound amp will cause a loud buzz when the game is powered on. Generally, amps blow due to reduced impedance (aka resistance, ohms) in the speaker(s). If a speaker shorts, the associated amp(s) will blow. Or, if the drive connection (not ground) to a speaker breaks free of the speaker connection lug and touches ground with the power on, the associated amp(s) will blow. Note that the speaker metal housing is connected to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The image at left shows two amps from the same WPC-95 AV board that were blown when the non-ground speaker wire broke free and touched the speaker housing. It is good practice to solder the speaker wires onto the speaker connection lugs to prevent this from every happening.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Diode testing is an effective method of determining that an amp is blown. Place the red lead of your DMM on the center leg of the amp and test each of the remaining four legs. Compare results to a known good amp of the same type. Generally, readings between .5 and .8 should be observed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Lowering the Minimum Volume ====&lt;br /&gt;
By default the game volume can be set no lower than &#039;8&#039; to prevent an operator from setting the volume too low. This can be overridden by entering the adjustments menu and setting Adjustment 1.28 (Minimum Volume Override) to yes. You can now set the volume as low as you like.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Frequency Sound Only====&lt;br /&gt;
This applies to pre-DCS and DCS sound boards.  Uncertain if AV boards apply or not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a situation where only the tweeter / high frequency sound can only be heard.  This will result in the game sounding much quieter than usual.  Most speaker systems are parallel circuits.  However, the woofer on a pre-DCS sound system is in series with the midrange speaker.  The high frequency speaker is in a parallel circuit to the mid and low range speakers.  If there is no sound from the woofer in the bottom of the cabinet, there will be no midrange from the speaker panel. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, make certain that the speaker output wiring from the sound board is connected correctly.  Also, there is a bullet connection located inline which must be connected.  This bullet connections ties the low and midrange speakers in series.  Finally, check the connections at the woofer in the bottom of the cabinet to make certain the female spade connectors are secured to the speaker terminals.  If all connections are secure, there is a chance that the woofer speaker is blown.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Pre-DCS Sound Board Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The blue Philips 47µF 35v axial electrolytic capacitors on these sound boards are prone to failure, often testing with no capacitance or extremely high equivalent series resistance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Power on Sound Tones (Bongs) =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a successful boot, the game should make a single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; sound. The game provides a sound board problem indication with the following number of bongs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pre-DCS Sound Board Games.&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - U9 RAM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - U18 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - U15 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - U14 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====No Sound at all=====&lt;br /&gt;
The highest probability reason for the complete lack of sound is connections to the speakers. The IDC connectors at J504 and J505 carry the sound to all speakers in the game. Since the speakers are connected in series on a pre-DCS game, any break in the speaker signal loop will cause loss of all sound. First check the small gauge wires at connectors J504 and J505. Since they are IDC connectors, they are prone to breaking free from the connector. Next ensure that all speaker connections are solid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible for a speaker to fail, commonly called &amp;quot;blown&amp;quot;. You can test a speaker by applying anything from an AA battery to a 9V battery to the speaker terminals. You should see the speaker cone react when the battery is touched to the terminals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Unbalanced Sound=====&lt;br /&gt;
Pre-DCS sound boards are not 100% interchangeable across games. Games from Funhouse to Party Zone (including Funhouse, Harley Davidson, Bride of Pinbot, Slugfest, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Terminator 2, Hurricane, and Party Zone) use different resistor values at R23/R24 than the remaining games that used the pre-DCS sound board (games from Hot Shots basketball through The Addams Family Gold). If you find the sound &amp;quot;unbalanced&amp;quot; between background sounds and voices, for instance, check the following resistor values.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
R23/R24 values for...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
::Funhouse through Party Zone - 150K ohms&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
::Hot Shots through TAFG - 56K ohms&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the resistor value indicated in the schematics for pre-DCS sound boards at R22 and R25 are wrong. The schematics indicate 150K ohms. The correct value is 120K ohms.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Distorted or slightly &amp;quot;off&amp;quot; sounds=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:PreDCSSoundBoardC38NotStuffed.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C38 is not stuffed on some pre-DCS sound boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The pre-DCS sound board uses 47µF capacitors as filters in the sound circuit; C15, C36, and C38. If one or more of these caps fail, certain sounds may not be as loud or as clear as intended. The game will just sound &amp;quot;off&amp;quot; with perhaps slightly unbalanced sounds. An amazingly high percentage of these caps fail. It is recommended that if your sounds are a bit &amp;quot;off&amp;quot; that you replace all of these caps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; as shown at left, C38 is sometimes not stuffed at the factory. It appears that audio channel 1 and channel 2 (in C38s path) from the Yamaha YM3012 are redundant, making this cap unnecessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear = all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:preDCSSoundBoardCapComparison.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C49, implemented in two different ways on the pre-DCS sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Also, some pre-DCS sound boards looked to have been &amp;quot;hacked&amp;quot; to add a ceramic capacitor just below the clock crystal X1. This is not in fact a hack. It appears to &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the omission of C49 on some versions of the PCB. C49 is located at the edge of the board, just above the crystal.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear = all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Popping, Scratchy Sound, Very Hot LM1875 Heat Sink, or Shorted Speakers=====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, the tantalum/ceramic caps in the amp circuit fail too. This can result in too much AC &amp;quot;ripple&amp;quot; feeding the amp as well as DC output to the speakers, which they do not like. The following components are all suspect...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*C20 (10µF, 20V tantalum)&lt;br /&gt;
*C46 and C47 (both 1µF, 35V tantalum)&lt;br /&gt;
*C22 (22µF, 35v electrolytic) &lt;br /&gt;
*C23 (.22µF, 10V, ceramic)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, the positive side of the tantalum cap at C26 will measure about 50mv of AC referenced to game ground. Anything more indicates a problem with these tantalum caps. You will also be able to measure DC voltage across the speaker outputs. There should normally be no DC voltage across the speaker outputs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The LM1875 may also run very hot. Normally, you can grasp the heat sink without burning your hand. It will be hot, but not so hot that you can not squeeze it or grasp it very long. &#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; this assumes that the volume is set to about 8. Setting the volume to 18 will require the heat sink to dissipate more heat. The heat sink will be too hot to grasp (for very long). If at &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; volume levels and the heat sink is so hot that you can not grip it, failing tantalum caps should be suspected. If after replacing the tantalum caps the popping and scratchiness persist, the LM1875 amp may have been damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume Not Adjustable and/or Stuck at Low Volume=====&lt;br /&gt;
This problem manifests as a very low volume from the speakers, equivalent to the lowest sound level setting. The volume setting may be adjusted from the coin door, and the DMD volume &amp;quot;thermometer&amp;quot; will move normally, but the speaker volume will not change. While the cause of this issue could be a failed digital POT as discussed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Volume_Suddenly_at_Maximum here], a failed MC3340 electronic attenuator may also be the cause. You may be able to identify the MC3340 as the problem by comparing &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot; results with a known good MC3340. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In one such case, pins 7 and 8 of the device where shorted together, causing the symptoms described. The failed MC3340 may also have caused the amp to become very hot, but this has not been conclusively proven.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Take care to ensure the MC3340 is actually at fault as this obsolete part is pricey and hard to find.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Wrong sounds being played=====&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, this problem boils down to a communication problem between the MPU and the sound board. Possible failure points are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Ribbon cables&lt;br /&gt;
*Male header pins on both MPU and sound board&lt;br /&gt;
*74LS374 data buffer ICs on the sound board used to communicate between the MPU and the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
*Rarely, a failed 6264 RAM can cause this. The RAM is &amp;quot;tested&amp;quot; by the MPU. Sometimes it will pass the test, yet fail in game play. Odd...I know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume Suddenly at Maximum=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the volume suddenly jumps to full volume and control of the volume via the coin door buttons does not work, check C18, a 47µF 35v axial electrolytic capacitor.  The blue Philips capacitors on these sound boards are prone to failure and can cause this issue if bad.  If that does not solve the problem there is a good chance that the digital POT (volume control) on the sound board has failed. The part is located at U5 and is an X9503. The X9503 is obsolete but it&#039;s successor the X9C503 works fine here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Blown 1uF or 10uF Tantalum Capacitor=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCpreDCSBlownTantalumCap.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C46 blew up and burned quite spectacularly on this pre-DCS sound board.]][[Image:Wpc_pre-dcs_cap-failure-c28.jpg|200px|thumb|right|C28 failed on this pre-DCS sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The pre-DCS sound board uses 1uf tantalum caps in the amp circuit. Sometimes, for no good reason than simply being old, one of these caps will explode and burst into flames at game power on. C46 on the board shown at left did just that. In the great majority of instances, simply replacing the cap returns the board to service. This &amp;quot;burning into flames&amp;quot; can also happen to the +12V and -12V section with C26 and C28.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the 1uF tantalum at C27 or C29 shorts internaly, it will cause the +12V or -12V to disapear. The LM7812 (U4) or LM7912 (U3) will run very hot. The tantalum draws all the current. The LM7812 and LM7912 have a limit of 1 Amp. The voltage will drop to zero when this happens, leaving the amplifier without power. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other tantalum caps have been documented to explosively fail, including C28 and C47.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A tantalum capacitor can be tested by desoldering one leg and using a DMM (in diode check) to check for a short. Simply replacing the tantalum will solve the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A contributing factor to these explosive failures was that the voltage rating on the capacitors that were used was too close to the operating voltage running through them (undersized components were typically used as a cost saving measure). As a general rule of thumb, the operating voltage should be 50% of the voltage rating of the tantalum capacitors. So, for a 12V circuit, at least a 25V capacitor should be used; a 50V minimum rating would be better.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All the tantalum capacitors used on the pre-DCS sound board are below:&lt;br /&gt;
* C20,C21: 10uF axial tantalum capacitor (original rating was 10V; use at least 35v instead).&lt;br /&gt;
* C26,C27,C28,C29,C37,C46,C47,C48: 1uF axial tantalum capacitor (original rating was 35V; use at least 50v instead).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the tapered end is the positive side and also has a &amp;quot;+&amp;quot; symbol near it (however, with a burnt part, this might be impossible to see). Since the board was not silkscreened with any indications of component polarity, make note of the direction on the original part before removing it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Wpc_pre-dcs_tantalum-cap-polarity.jpg|250px|thumb|center|Diagram showing the tantalum capacitor locations and polarity]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After replacing one blown tantalum capacitor, it is possible that a second power up might blow a different one. Therefore, it might be a good idea to preemptively replace all the tantalum capacitors, especially if one has already experienced an explosive failure.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Failed1ufTantalumCap.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Another failed 1uf tantalum capacitor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacementCapForTantalum.jpg |300px|thumb|right|The replacement 1uf electrolytic capacitor installed, with the lead insulated to prevent the unlikely short to the heat sink.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The tantalum caps on this board can be replaced with the same rated (1uf) electrolytic caps. The two caps adjacent to the large heat sink need to be positioned to allow space for the large 4700uf caps also adjacent to the large heat sink.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Is Very Faint Even at Maximum Volume (CVSD Failure)=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:55536-CVSD.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Two hard to find 55536 CVSD ICs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
While most techs would suspect either a TL082 or a TL084 amplifier (on a pre-DCS sound board) or a 1458 amplifier (on a System 11 MPU) as the cause of this issue, the 55516/55532/55536/55564 CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta-Modulator) can also cause this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isolation to the CVSD is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into sound test.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use an oscilloscope to probe pins 9 and 12. A scope must be used since the signals are too subtle for a logic probe to detect.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 is a clock signal. &lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 12 is a data signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is making sounds that use the CVSD (generally voice calls), both pin 9 and pin 12 should show &amp;quot;off nominal&amp;quot; signals. If the CVSD is working correctly, the output at pin 3 should be showing signal also. If pin 3 is not showing signal, then the CVSD has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CVSDReplacementFront.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot; used to replace the 55536 CVSD (front).]][[Image:CVSDReplacementBack.jpg|200px|thumb|right|A &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot; used to replace the 55536 CVSD (rear).]]&lt;br /&gt;
During the run of the pre-DCS sound board, it is suspected that the 55536 CVSD part (and it&#039;s close cousins) was becoming hard/expensive to acquire. Williams created a &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot; to use in lieu of the CVSD. The daughter card used an MC3417 CVSD along with additional &amp;quot;tuning&amp;quot; resistors and capacitors. The sound quality result is indistinguishable from a 55536. Williams used a closed frame machine pin socket to accept the daughter card. The &amp;quot;chip notch&amp;quot; should be oriented just as you would the CVSD. That is, more of the card will be south of the chip socket than north of it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While it might seem like a good idea to duplicate the design of this Williams card (part number 5768-14714-00) to replace the even harder to find 55536, the main part used, the MC3417, is equally hard to find today.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:YT.png]] Jeri Ellsworth reverse engineered the 55564 (55536 equivalent) and posted [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FRGwuxFDE4 this video] in October, 2011. She makes it seem &amp;quot;intuitively obvious to even the most casual observer&amp;quot;...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====DCS Sound Board Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DCS sound board was used in 18 games including:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Indiana Jones: the Pinball Adventure&lt;br /&gt;
*Judge Dredd&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Trek: The Next Generation&lt;br /&gt;
*Demolition Man&lt;br /&gt;
*Popeye Saves the Earth&lt;br /&gt;
*World Cup Soccer&lt;br /&gt;
*The Pinball Circus&lt;br /&gt;
*The Flintstones&lt;br /&gt;
*Corvette&lt;br /&gt;
*Red &amp;amp; Ted&#039;s Road Show&lt;br /&gt;
*The Shadow&lt;br /&gt;
*Dirty Harry&lt;br /&gt;
*Theatre of Magic&lt;br /&gt;
*No Fear: Dangerous Sports&lt;br /&gt;
*Indianapolis 500&lt;br /&gt;
*Johnny Mnemonic&lt;br /&gt;
*WHO Dunnit&lt;br /&gt;
*Jack*Bot&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Power on Sound Tones (Bongs) =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a successful boot, the game should make a single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; sound. The game provides a sound board problem indication with the following number of bongs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DCS Sound Board Games.&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - U2 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - U3 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - U4 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - U5 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - U6 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - U7 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*8 - U8 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*9 - U9 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*10 - U10-U12 RAM error. Not always identified from the main CPU board program.&lt;br /&gt;
*Note - DCS sound board RAM failures are indicated by a message on the display, &amp;quot;U10-U12 RAM error&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Very Loud Humming at Power On=====&lt;br /&gt;
The DCS sound board uses two 10,000µF caps at location C20 and C21 to smooth rectified AC power. The negative side of C21 and the positive side of C20 are connected to analog ground at header J4, pins 6 and 7. This connection is fragile. If the game hums really loudly, immediately at power on, test for continuity between these points as shown in the pictures below. Often this loud hum is diagnosed as a failing cap when the real problem is simply a fractured trace. If the caps have been replaced previously, there is a good chance that the PCB through holes have been damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;DCS Sound Board Filter Capacitor Connections. Continuity is shown as a zero ohm connection.&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DCSCapThroughHoleBungled.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The remains of through holes heinously ripped from a DCS sound board PCB. These &amp;quot;brown donuts&amp;quot; are still attached to the 10,000uf filter capacitor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DCSCapConnection1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The first of two tests ensuring continuity between the filter capacitors and analog ground.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DCSCapConnection2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The second of two tests ensuring continuity between the filter capacitors and analog ground.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ram Error=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replacement RAM ICs for the DCS sound board are becoming harder to find. The board uses three 2K skinny dip 6116 cache rams with an access time of 35nS or better. These are obsolete and long gone. The good news is that the board has jumpers for 6264 type 8K cache rams. Jumper W4 is installed for 2K rams. Jumper W4 should be removed and jumper W5 installed to use 8K rams. All RAM ICs need to be replaced at the same time for this configuration to work. A relatively inexpensive, and still in production replacement, is the IDT 7164S20TPG.&lt;br /&gt;
RAM testers are not able to detect &amp;quot;defect&amp;quot; RAMs with an speed problem for sure. So possible the RAM tester test the RAM IC as a good working one while this RAM IC cause the 10 bongs error message.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====  Muffled Sound and Speech/No Sound =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DCSSoundBoardCaps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C32 and C41, both electrolytic caps, are in series in the sound amplification circuit of the DCS sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Muffled audio can be caused by two 1uf/63V electrolytic capacitors that are in series with the audio path for each amplifier. Simply replacing them may clean up the audio. A typical 1uf/50V axial electrolytic capacitor will work fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is also possible that if one of these capacitors fails completely open, you will get no sound at all out of that capacitor&#039;s respective channel since these capacitors are in series in the voltage in line to the amplifiers (C32 for the cabinet speaker and C41 for the backbox speakers.) Replacing the appropriate capacitor can restore sound to the silenced channel.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Scratchy Audio or mumbled speech =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DCSSoundBoardCeramicCaps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C37 and C45, both ceramic caps, sometimes cause scratchy audio.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During production of WPC-95 games, Williams removed two small ceramic caps (C47 and C51) from the A/V board to clean up the sound. This fix can also be applied to the DCS sound board. On the DCS board C37 and C45 are the equivalent caps to be removed. Simply clip the caps from the board. You do not need to desolder them. This cleans up the sound and speech on some games like Demo Man quite well.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-95 A/V Board Sound Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 A/V Board was introduced, along with the WPC-95 system, with Congo and was used through the end of the WPC game system run (Cactus Canyon).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always check the speaker connections to the A/V board (J504 and J505) and the wiring at the speakers before assuming there is a problem with the board.  The speakers themselves can go bad; you can do a quick &amp;quot;click test&amp;quot; with a D-cell battery and a set of jumper leads to rule out dead speakers.  Disconnect the speaker connections at the A/V board and connect your battery jumper leads to the pairs of wires in the J504 and J505 connectors; you should hear a click from the speaker if it is good.  If you don&#039;t hear the click try the connection at the speaker itself to rule out wiring issues.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The analog output of the A/V board feeds into a TLO84 op-amp (U1) that is configured as a pair of low-pass and high-pass filters; these are used to separate the low-frequency sounds (destined for the cabinet speaker) and the high-frequency sounds (destined for the back box speakers).  These two channels - signified on the schematic as AUDIO_R (cabinet) and AUDIO_L (back box) feed into a pair of TDA2030AV amplifiers; U5 drives the back box speakers and U6 drives the cabinet speaker.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The outputs of U1B and U1C (pins 7 &amp;amp; 8) can be briefly connected with a jumper lead to help narrow down issues when one of the two channels is not working or has weak/distorted output.  When the two pins are jumpered you should be able to hear approximately the same level of sound from the cabinet and back box speakers.  (Use the T.7 diagnostic test to play sound clips for the game during your testing.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== On Board Voltage Regulation =====&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 A/V Board &amp;quot;digital&amp;quot; side is powered by the same 5VDC that is regulated by the power/driver board. The &amp;quot;analog&amp;quot; side of the A/V board, specifically the two TL084s and the AD1851 D-to-A converter, all use +5VDC and -5VDC that is regulated by the 78L05 and 79L05 respectively. Four rectifying diodes provide about +/- 17VDC to these regulators. If the sound is low or scratchy, check these two voltages first. Both +5VDC and -5VDC can be easily measured at pins 4 and 11 of either TL084.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Power on Sound Tones (Bongs) =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a successful boot, the game should make a single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; sound. The game provides a sound board problem indication with the following number of bongs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Audio/Video Board Games (WPC-95).&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - S2 ROM failure. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Two bongs also occur if jumper W3 is IN on the MPU board, and the installed RAM size is 6264. If an NVRAM was just installed, check this jumper. See the section on [[Williams_WPC#Jumpers.2C_RAM_and_ROM_size | jumpers]].&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - S3 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - S4 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - S5 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - S6 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - S7 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*10 - U9, U10, or U11 RAM failure (see below)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95U9-U11Error.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC-95 boot time RAM error message, accompanied by 10 very annoying bongs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95U10U12Message.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-95 boot time RAM error message, accompanied by 10 very annoying bongs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A/V sound board RAM failures are indicated by a message on the display, either &amp;quot;U9-U11 RAM error&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;U10-U12 RAM error&amp;quot;. This is apparently game software dependent. A/V RAM are, in fact, U9-U11. Apparently, this message wasn&#039;t updated in some of the software with the introduction of the A/V board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Loss of One Channel =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95AVBoardSoundIssue.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C38 and C39, which can cause loss of a single channel]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If one channel is out or weak/distorted try the jumper at U1 pins 7 &amp;amp; 8 noted above.  If no change is detected in the sound output it is likely the associated TDA2030AV amplifier (U5 or U6) has failed.  Before replacing the amplifier jumper a 1 MFD 63 volt capacitor across C38 and C39 in turn (observe polarity!) to rule out a defective coupling capacitor.  If jumpering pins 7 &amp;amp; 8 of U1 significantly improves the sound levels it is likely that U1 itself has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Scratchy Audio =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AVBoardCapsRemoved.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A later production Williams WPC-95 AV Board, with C47 and C51 intentionally unstuffed at the factory]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams removed two small ceramic caps (C47, C51, pictured at left) later in the production run of AV boards. If your game&#039;s audio is just a bit scratchy, and these caps have not been removed, you may be able to improve audio quality by removing them. Simply clip both sides of the cap. There is no real need to desolder them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Really Loud buzzing sound for a second or two =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your game sometimes produces a really loud buzzing sound at random, check the version of your S2 sound rom. This problem was fixed with the latest S2 sound ROM for Attack from Mars, Congo, Safe Cracker and Tales of the Arabian Nights. Scared Stiff might also be affected but no version history for sound 1.1 exists for this game. Later games are not affected.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In most instances, an inexperienced tech will immediately blame the flipper coil itself for weak or non-functioning flippers.  It is logical to blame the coil for the source of the problem.  The flipper coil is, after all, the end reason why a flipper becomes engaged.  However, its failure is the least probable reason that a flipper is not working.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper does not work====&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, you&#039;ve started a game, you press the flipper cabinet switch, and nothing happens.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing to do is inspect the wire connections to the flipper coil lugs.  The most common reason a WPC flipper does not function is that either one of the wires broke from the game to the lug, or one of the coil winding wires, has broken away from the coil lug and is no longer connected to the coil. This is a pretty simple fix. Make a clean cut to the wire, strip or sand 1/4&amp;quot; to 3/8&amp;quot; of insulation back, and make a nice solder joint on the coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC95FlipperSpadeConnectors.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A good reason to nip spade connectors off and solder directly to the coil lug. This spade connector simply &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;fell off&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; the coil lug. Luckily, it didn&#039;t come to rest on an adjacent lug.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some WPC-95 titles used &amp;quot;spade connectors&amp;quot; (also known as FASTON connectors) to attach wires to the coil lugs. This was done for ease of manufacture and for that reason only. Similar to a wire breaking free, these spade connectors sometimes do not provide a solid connection and sometimes simply fall off. In that case, cut the spade connector off and solder the wire directly to the coil lug. This makes a much better connection that is also much more reliable. Should a spade connector fall onto an adjacent coil lug, it&#039;s very possible that a short circuit will be created, possibly damaging the FlipTronics board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Mechanical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple of mechanical reasons a flipper may not be working, including:&lt;br /&gt;
*Broken flipper link&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper crank not &amp;quot;biting&amp;quot; flipper shaft (this would most likely manifest as a flipper that continues to move backwards, out of adjustment)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simple inspection of the flipper mechanism should guide your corrective actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pre-FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Failed flipper power supply - make sure that DC flipper power is present at the coil using your DMM. Place the red lead on a coil lug, the black lead on game ground (siderail or ground braid anywhere in the game). You should read about 70VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper cabinet switch not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; or fouled so badly that it doesn&#039;t conduct flipper power&lt;br /&gt;
*Fouled or missing flipper end-of-stroke switch. Pre-FlipTronics games relied on EOS switches in the same way that older games do. That is, power is routed to the power stroke winding of the coil via the EOS switch. If the EOS switch is fouled, only the hold winding will receive power; perhaps inadequate to move the flipper at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Failed flipper power supply. Flipper power originates at the transformer. It is routed through the power/driver board (which does nothing to it) and then to the FlipTronics board. The FlipTronics board rectifies the AC power via an onboard bridge rectifier. Power may be interrupted anywhere along this path, including a failed bridge rectifier or blown fuse.&lt;br /&gt;
*Failed flipper coil &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; winding&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper cabinet switch not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; or flipper opto board not working&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged connection between flipper cabinet switch and FlipTronics board&lt;br /&gt;
*FlipTronics board not recognizing flipper cabinet button switch closure&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MissingPinFlipTronics.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A missing pin in the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;FlipTonics-to-MPU interface&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. The missing pin prevented transmission of the F8 signal (D7), which is the upper left flipper switch closed signal.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An unusual reason for the flipper switch closure signal not being sent to the MPU is shown at left.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Failed logic path on the FlipTronics board including the transistors. See: [[Williams_WPC#WPC_FlipTronics_I_.26_II_Boards| WPC FlipTronics I and II Boards]] for a description of the signal path.&lt;br /&gt;
*Improperly seated or failed ribbon connectors between MPU and FlipTronics board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper is weak====&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, the flipper makes a stroke, but it&#039;s a weak stroke, not striking the ball with normal force.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Mechanical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Not enough vertical movement in flipper bat (crank tightened too close to bushing)&lt;br /&gt;
*Cracked, broken or egged flipper bushing&lt;br /&gt;
*Mushroomed coil stop and plunger (replace coil sleeve too)&lt;br /&gt;
*Missing link bushing or oval link &amp;quot;eyelet&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
*Tired flipper crank (will not tighten on bat shaft)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Flipper Link Plunger.JPG|thumb|left|200px|An Example of an Egged Flipper Link and Mushroomed Flipper Plunger - Lower Link and Plunger Shown in Picture is new]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pre-FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper cabinet switch not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; or fouled so badly that it does not conduct&lt;br /&gt;
*Failed flipper end-of-stroke switch&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Dirty flipper cabinet switch optos&lt;br /&gt;
*Power stroke winding of coil failed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper locks on or fails to fall to resting position====&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, the flipper locks in the up position, either at game power on or when the flipper cabinet switch is pressed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Mechanical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pre-FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper cabinet switch opto interupter not returning to proper at rest position&lt;br /&gt;
*Sticky flipper buttons, which can lead to opto interupter not returning to at rest position.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Fodder (may be useful to complete this section)=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Fouled or broken &amp;quot;normally closed&amp;quot; EOS switch&lt;br /&gt;
*Fouled or broken flipper cabinet switch&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper relay not enabled&lt;br /&gt;
*Fouled / dirty or non-functioning flipper opto switches&lt;br /&gt;
*Upper flipper switch closures in switch test, when there aren&#039;t any upper flippers on game&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
===Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;quot;Ewe 22&amp;quot; Security PIC chip replacement for WPC-S/WPC-95: http://www.shiftedbit.com/products.htm&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
Since WPC games are overwhelmingly the most popular pinball titles at the moment, and there are a vast amount of titles with so many game specific issues, please refer to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_List Game List] section of this guide.  Click on the specific game, and a new page will open regarding repair logs and game specific problems and fixes for that particular game title.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== World Cup Soccer locks on Right Sling and both Left and Right Kickout Holes at Power On ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCDriverBoardKeying.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Board layout diagram showing identical connector and keying at J124, J128, and J132)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCJ124J128Keying.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Image showing identical connector and keying at J124, J128, and J132)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;Problem&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Upon power on, and with the coin door closed (defeating the high voltage interlock switch), the right slingshot as well as the left and right saucer kickout hole coils lock on. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;Cause&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp drive connector that should be connected to J124 is instead connected to J128.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;Discussion&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Connecting the female plug to the wrong header pins is entirely possible since the connectors are the same width and are keyed identically. In World Cup Soccer (at least), the wire bundle is long enough to be connected (properly) to J124 or (improperly) to J128 or J132.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===S2 Sound ROM Failure on WPC-95 After a Successful Boot===&lt;br /&gt;
If game is turned on and has a successful boot, but after a few minutes, the game bongs twice indicating an S2 sound ROM failure and becomes unresponsive, try reseating the ASIC chip on the MPU. Make sure to use the proper removal tool, rather than a screwdriver--an improper tool will damage the chip.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=American_Pinball_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20755</id>
		<title>American Pinball Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=American_Pinball_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20755"/>
		<updated>2021-01-24T00:06:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Manuals */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;For history of American Pinball see [[American Pinball]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Introduction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Manufacturer&#039;s website: https://www.american-pinball.com/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
American Pinball, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
1448 Yorkshire Drive&lt;br /&gt;
Streamwood, ILL. 60107&lt;br /&gt;
Telephone: (847) 893-6800&lt;br /&gt;
info@american-pinball.com&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Games ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Model #&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Houdini]] || 12-2017 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Oktoberfest || 03-2019 || ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Wheels || 04-2020* || || *Expected production date, however subject to change&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Technical Info ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Game Code Updates ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game code updates can be downloaded here: https://www.american-pinball.com/support/updates/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a USB jack located near the service outlet in which a thumb drive loaded with the update can be plugged in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Manuals ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Oktoberfest-Manual-new.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Assemblies Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Assembly.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/AP_Houdini-Service-Manual_091018.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hot Wheels Game Manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2020-7/Hot-Wheels-Manual-7-13-2020.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Boards ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; (PCB0021-01) on Houdini controls the Start Button LED (12 volts), Shaker Motor (12 volts), and Knocker Coil (48 volts). It can control a maximum of 7 devices.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
American Pinball uses the MultiMorphic board sets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P3-ROC CPU (PCB0002-00)&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 board &lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 board (PCB0004-00)&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED2 board (PCB0008-00)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Power Supplies ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The power supply which operates the coils is a Mean Well model RSP-750-48 (48 volts @ 15 amps, 750 watts). Jameco Electronics has it as their stock number 2172148. Some machines may have a Velika (www.best-force.com) model S-800-48 (48v @ 16.7 amps) power supply installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Displays ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Main monitor in backbox is 15.6&amp;quot; Monitor Assembly # MASM0026-00. It is an Astouch model A156-OPD01 which operates on 12 volts DC @ 4 amps. The Stage Monitor is 4.3&amp;quot; screen size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_Astouch_monitor.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Astouch monitor in a Houdini]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Speakers ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses the following speakers:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) midbass 4&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE005-00&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) midbass 3&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE004-00&lt;br /&gt;
*(2) tweeters 2&amp;quot; backbox speakers # ELE0003-00&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no woofer speaker in the bottom cabinet of Houdini.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_no_woofer.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Houdini does not have a woofer]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Flippers ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses Williams WPC style flipper assemblies. The flipper coil is a lugless type with a connector already on it so no soldering is needed. Just plug/unplug the coil. American Pinball coil # COL0003-00. End of stroke switches are normally open when the flipper is at rest and closes when the flipper is energized.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Cabinet Parts ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ball shooter assembly is the common Williams shooter housing and sleeve combo, but the housing is powder coated to match the game it&#039;s installed on. Coin door is a Happ Controls door with the four pushbutton switches much like a Stern Spike system door. Caution note: Houdini uses 12 volt dc coin door LED bulbs. Power switch and service outlet are in the normal locations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_menu_buttons.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Coin door diagnostic/menu buttons]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems and Solutions ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Power Supplies ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_48v_power_supply.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Houdini 48 volt power supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_service_outlet.JPG|200px|thumb|center|Houdini service outlet and power switch]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Solenoid Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Coil driver transistors are type IRL540N (N channel FET).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Switch Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Lamp Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== General Illumination Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Controlled Lamp Problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Display Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sound Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses a Lepy model LP-168S or Lepai LP-168HA (sold by Parts Express) super bass power amplifier. Specs are 2 X 40 watt amplifier and 1 X 68 watt subwoofer output. Owner&#039;s manual for the LP-168HA is located here:&lt;br /&gt;
https://lepaiaudio.com/docs/manuals/310-308--lp-168ha-manual.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Lepy LP-168S is a knockoff (counterfeit) of the Lepai LP-168HA:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://lepaiaudio.com/counterfeit/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Houdini_Lepy_LP168S_amplifier.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Lepy LP-168S amplifier]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Flipper Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Williams WPC style flipper assemblies. End of stroke switches are normally open when the flipper is at rest. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A common problem is the flipper gets stuck in the up position. This can be due to a broken flipper return spring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-flipper-spring-set&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Pop Bumper Problems ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini uses the black color Data East/Sega pop bumper assemblies.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Optional Equipment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These are some of the optional accessory equipment available for American Pinball machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Shaker Motor Kit # KIT0001-00 (plugs into &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; )&lt;br /&gt;
* Knocker Kit # KIT0002-00 (adds a real knocker, plugs into &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; )&lt;br /&gt;
* Add On Driver Board # PCB0021-01 (allows connection of accessory items such as shaker motor and knocker)&lt;br /&gt;
* End Of Stroke Switch Kit # KIT0004-00 (for Houdini flippers, corrects flipper problems)&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Power Supply Upgrade # MASM0132-00 (Houdini only, operates coils better than original power supply)&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Topper # MASM0071-00 (includes ac power adapter)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Bill Acceptors ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini comes factory pre-wired for 120 volt AC power Mars bill acceptors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest comes factory pre-wired for 12 volt DC bill acceptors. Use ICT model A6-25SCP-USD4-II.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game Specific Problems and Fixes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini weak or erratic odd feeling flippers: Early production Houdini machines did not have End-of-Stroke switches on the flipper assemblies. Order Kit # KIT0004-00 End Of Stroke switch kit.&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/collections/all/products/houdini-end-of-stroke-switch  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Houdini coils are weak: Early production Houdini machines need an additional 48 volt power supply for the coils. Order kit # MASM0132-00 Power Supply Upgrade Kit:&lt;br /&gt;
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-power-supply-upgrade&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Service Bulletins ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Scoop Adjustment: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/SCOOP-ADJUSTMENT.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Skill Shot Fix: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-5/Houdini-Skill-Shot-Fix.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Speaker Grill Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/Speaker-Grill-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Stage Door Servo Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Stage-Door-Servo-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini &amp;quot;Add On Board&amp;quot; (for connecting accessories): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-9/Add-On-Board.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini EOS Installation (flippers): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-10/End-Of-Stroke-Switch.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Knocker Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Knocker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Power Supply Kit (48 volts): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/Power-Supply-Kit-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Houdini Shaker Motor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/Shaker.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Knocker Kit Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-5/Knocker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Power Distribution Wiring: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/Power-Distribution.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Shaker Motor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Oktoberfest-Shaker-Installation.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Bar Door Not Working: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-7/Bar-Door-Check.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Dollar Bill Acceptor Installation: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-6/Wire-Diagram-DBA.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Oktoberfest Add On Board Wiring: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-5/New-Add-On-Board.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC&amp;diff=20620</id>
		<title>Williams WPC</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC&amp;diff=20620"/>
		<updated>2020-11-30T21:40:37Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Testing DMD Controller Power */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Williams_Repair_Guides | Williams solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
This guide covers Williams WPC (sometimes called WPC-89), WPC-S, and WPC-95 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC (WPC-089) CPU===&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC (Alphanumeric)====&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Funhouse]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Harley-Davidson]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC (Dot Matrix)====&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Gilligan&#039;s Island]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Terminator 2: Judgement Day]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Hurricane]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Party Zone]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC FlipTronics I &amp;amp; II====&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Addams Family]] / Addams Family Gold (the only Fliptronics I games)&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Getaway: High Speed II]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Black Rose]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Fish Tales]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Doctor Who]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[White Water]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Bram Stoker&#039;s Dracula]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Twilight Zone]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC DCS Sound====&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Judge Dredd]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Popeye Saves The Earth]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Demolition Man]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC-S with DCS Sound===&lt;br /&gt;
*[[World Cup Soccer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Flintstones]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Corvette]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Red &amp;amp; Ted Road Show]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Shadow]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Dirty Harry]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Theatre of Magic]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Indianapolis 500]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Johnny Mnemonic]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Jack*Bot]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[WHO Dunnit]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC-95 CPU===&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Congo]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Attack from Mars]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Safecracker|Safe Cracker]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Tales of the Arabian Nights]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Scared Stiff]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Junk Yard]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[NBA Fastbreak]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Medieval Madness]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Cirqus Voltaire]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[No Good Gofers]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[The Championship Pub|The Champion Pub]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Monster Bash]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Cactus Canyon]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List Chart==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC-89 &amp;amp; WPC-S===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!WPC System&lt;br /&gt;
!MPU&lt;br /&gt;
!Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Driver&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Additional Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Dr. Dude]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Alphanumeric / System 11&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12739-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Alphanumeric, dual display (A-12793)&lt;br /&gt;
|D-11581-2016 with a special power supply board (A-13502)&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12718-00 (WPC) or 5610-12136-00 (System 11)?&lt;br /&gt;
|Sound overlay board (A-13502)&lt;br /&gt;
|Only about 100 Dr. Dude sample games use the WPC boardset. They included a special power supply board (A-13502) to accommodate the System 11 sound board (D-11581), and also includes the System 11 interconnect board (D-12313-2016). The bulk of the production run used the [[Williams System 9 - 11|System 11C boardset]].&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Funhouse]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Alphanumeric&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12739-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Alphanumeric, dual display (A-12793)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50003&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12718-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Early FH games had a System 11 sound board (D-11581 / A-13971) with a special power supply board (A-13502) and a 5610-12425-00 transformer. Later games used the WPC A-12738 sound board. [http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/966/Williams_1990_Funhouse_Prototype_Manual_Addendum.pdf Funhouse Manual Addendum]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Harley-Davidson]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Alphanumeric&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12739-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Alphanumeric, single display (A-12794)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20001&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12718-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Alphanumeric&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12739-1&lt;br /&gt;
|Alphanumeric, dual display (A-12793)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50002&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12718-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Slugfest]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-60001&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Pitch &amp;amp; Bat game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Gilligan&#039;s Island]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20003&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Terminator 2: Judgement Day]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50013&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hurricane]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50012&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Party Zone]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix / WPC-89 Fliptronic I&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20004&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Some later PZ games started transitioning over to use the Fliptronic I board (A-15028). Different game ROMs are used depending upon if the PZ uses solid state flippers or fliptronic/standard flippers.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Hot Shot]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Dot Matrix&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50017&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Redemption game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Addams Family]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic I&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20017&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15028&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Extra flipper power supply (A-15416)&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Getaway: High Speed II]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50004&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Rose]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20013&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Doctor Who]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20006&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Fish Tales]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50005&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-20018&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[White Water]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50018&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Bram Stoker&#039;s Dracula]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50001&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Twilight Zone]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 Fliptronic II&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1 or A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12738-50020&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-way through TZ&#039;s production run, the A-12697-1 driver board starting being replaced with A-12697-3.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-DCS&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50017&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13491-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Judge Dredd]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-DCS&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-20020&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13491-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-DCS&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-1&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50023&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13491-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|Driver board was changed to A-12697-1.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Demolition Man]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-DCS&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|A few prototype games used a WPC-S MPU, which uses a different ROM in order to work with the WPC-S security PIC. The standard ROM for WPC-89 boards will not work on the WPC-S board, but a WPC-89 MPU can be swapped in to replace the WPC-S MPU. All the sample and production games used a WPC-89 MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Popeye Saves The Earth]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-DCS&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-89 (A-12742)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50022&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13491-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[World Cup Soccer]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50031&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Flintstones]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50029&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Some revisions were made on the A-14039.1 DMD driver board, but it is interchangeable with A-14039.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Corvette]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50036&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Red &amp;amp; Ted Road Show|Red &amp;amp; Ted&#039;s Road Show]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50024&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|Auxiliary 8-Driver PCB (A-16100)&lt;br /&gt;
|The transformer was moved to the rear of the cabinet starting with this game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Shadow]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50032&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Dirty Harry]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50030&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Theatre of Magic]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50039&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50025&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Indianapolis 500]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50026&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Johnny Mnemonic]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50042&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[WHO Dunnit]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-4&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50044&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|This was the only game to use a A-12697-4 driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Jack*Bot]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (A-17651)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-12697-3&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14039.1&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|A-16917-50051&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15472-1&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC-95===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!WPC System&lt;br /&gt;
!MPU&lt;br /&gt;
!Driver Board&lt;br /&gt;
!AV Board&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Transformer&lt;br /&gt;
!Additional Boards&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Congo]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|The first WPC-95 game. The A-20516 AV Board drives both sound and the DMD. The A-20028 driver board included flipper power circuits, eliminating the need for a separate fliptronic board.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Attack from Mars]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[safecracker|Safe Cracker]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Ticket Tac Toe]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|?&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Redemption game (with flippers).&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Tales of the Arabian Nights]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Scared Stiff]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-20119 or A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|The first appearance of a revision to the MPU. A-20119 and A-21377 can be used interchangeably in any WPC-95 games.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Junk Yard]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[NBA Fastbreak]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Medieval Madness]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Cirqus Voltaire]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD is mounted on the playfield, rather than in the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[No Good Gofers]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Championship Pub|The Champion Pub]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Monster Bash]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Cactus Canyon]]&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 (A-21377)&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20028&lt;br /&gt;
|A-20516&lt;br /&gt;
|DMD&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Recommended Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Manuals &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner&#039;s game manual is a handy resource to have for general game operation, game settings &amp;amp; diagnostics, switch &amp;amp; lamp matrices, fuse lists, circuit boards and parts, playfield assemblies, some basic schematics, and wiring diagrams.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics, wiring, switch/lamp matrices, and solenoid assignments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some games have information split between two manuals: a game manual (for general game operation) and an operations guide (for more technical information).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Safety Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-10371, January 1, 1997&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Manual contains multiple languages.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Schematics===&lt;br /&gt;
Details for board and cabinet schematics and theory of operation guides for WPC games can be found in separate documents. There are several versions of each generation. Some copies can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Guide&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Theory of Operation and Schematics Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9289, October 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Schematic_WPC_16-9289/index.html Viewer for Guide] [http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Schematic_WPC_16-9289/index.html Viewer for Schematics]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9473 (undated)&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Switch row 7 &amp;amp; 8 are reversed from what is printed.  Row 7 should be pin 5 of U19, and row 8 should be pin 7 of U19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9473-1, May 17, 1993&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/wpc/Williams-WPC-Schematics_16-9473-1.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Switch row 7 &amp;amp; 8 are reversed from what is printed.  Row 7 should be pin 5 of U19, and row 8 should be pin 7 of U19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9473-2, April 25, 1994&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Switch row 7 &amp;amp; 8 are reversed from what is printed.  Row 7 should be pin 5 of U19, and row 8 should be pin 7 of U19.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9834, June 1994&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9834.2, January 1995&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Schematic_WPC_16-9834.2/index.html Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-S (Security) Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-10159.2, March 1996&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|WPC-95 Schematic Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|16-10159.3, July 1997&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/wpc/Williams-WPC-95-Schematics-Manual_16-10159.3.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Parts Catalogs===&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Parts catalogs also had supplementary updates to add and replace pages as newer games were released after the initial release of the catalogs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Online copies of Bally &amp;amp; Williams parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Version&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1984-1987)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Comet, F-14 Tomcat, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle&lt;br /&gt;
|This was an early version of the blue parts catalog, and only included 9 pinball titles (and 3 shuffle alley titles). The pages of this catalog were printed on white paper. Additional titles were later included in a &amp;quot;parts catalog supplement&amp;quot; packet (16-9064-A) with blue-colored pages, which added and replaced pages for this earlier version of the parts catalog.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (Supplementary Catalog) (1987-1988)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-A&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Cyclone, Fire!, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|This &amp;quot;parts catalog supplement&amp;quot; packet with blue-colored pages added and replaced pages for the earlier version of the parts catalog. It included 7 new pinball titles not included in the previous version of the parts catalog. Later catalogs had these new pages included and were not colored blue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Blue Parts Catalog (1984-1989)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9064-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Blue_16-9064-B/index.html Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Banzai Run, Big Guns, Black Knight: 2000, Comet, Cyclone, Earthshaker!, F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Grand Lizard, High Speed, Jokerz!, Millionaire, Pin Bot, Police Force, Road Kings, Sorcerer, Space Shuttle, Space Station, Swords of Fury, Taxi&lt;br /&gt;
|This is the latest version of the blue parts catalog. It included the game titles in the previous version, information from the supplementary parts catalog, a few new pinball titles, and a total of 5 shuffle alley titles. The blue parts catalog came in a blue-colored binder with the catalog&#039;s cover and game titles printed on the front, and basic information printed on the spine. The pages of this catalog were printed on pink paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (1989-1990)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Rollergames, Whirlwind&lt;br /&gt;
|The red parts catalog came in a red-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. This version of the parts catalog included 4 pinball titles and 2 shuffle alley titles. The pages were printed on white-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-A&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|?&lt;br /&gt;
|The red parts catalog came in a red-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. This was a supplementary parts catalog that updated pages and added titles to the previous version of the red parts catalog. The pages were printed on blue-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Red Parts Catalog (Supplementary Catalog) (1989-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9190-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Red_16-9190-B/index.html Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Cats, Diner, Dracula, Fish Tales, Funhouse, The Getaway, Hurricane, The Machine: Bride of Pin Bot, Riverboat Gambler, Rollergames, Slugfest, Terminator 2, Whirlwind, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|The red parts catalog came in a red-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. This version of the parts catalog included 13 pinball titles, and 5 shuffle alley titles, 7 video came titles, and 3 novelty game titles. The pages were printed on gray-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1990)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Atlantis, Elvira, Game Show, Mousin&#039; Around, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|The yellow parts catalog came in a yellow-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. The pages were printed on white-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (Supplementary Catalog) (1988-1991)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-A&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Atlantis, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Elvira, Game Show, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|The yellow parts catalog came in a yellow-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. This was a supplementary update to the previous version of the catalog, which included 11 pinball titles and 4 video game titles. The pages were printed on yellow-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Yellow Parts Catalog (1988-1992)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9147-B&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_Yellow_16-9147-B/index.html Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Atlantis, Black Rose, Bugs Bunny, Dr. Dude, Dr. Who, Elvira, Game Show, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Mousin&#039; Around, Party Zone, Pool Sharks, Radical!, Transporter, Truck Stop&lt;br /&gt;
|The yellow parts catalog came in a yellow-colored binder with some basic information printed on the cover and spine. The pages were printed on gold-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Gray Parts Catalog (1992-1994)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9562&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Creature From the Black Lagoon, Judge Dredd, Popeye Saves the Earth, Twilight Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|The gray parts catalog came in a white-colored binder with gray colored paper inserts for the spine and cover that included the company name, parts catalog, and part number. The pages were printed on white-colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally/Midway&lt;br /&gt;
|Gray Parts Catalog (Supplementary Catalog) (1992-1995)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9562-A&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Grey_16-9562-A/index.html Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family Gold, Corvette, Creature From the Black Lagoon, Indianapolis 500, Judge Dredd, Popeye Saves the Earth, The Shadow, Theatre Of Magic, Twilight Zone, Who Dunnit, World Cup Soccer&lt;br /&gt;
|The gray parts catalog came in a white-colored binder with gray colored paper inserts for the spine and cover that included the company name, parts catalog, and part number. This was a supplementary update to the previous version of the catalog. The pages were printed on light blue colored paper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Green Parts Catalog (1993-1995)&lt;br /&gt;
|16-9932&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Green_16-9932/index.html Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|Demolition Man, Dirty Harry, Demolition Man, Indiana Jones, Road Show, Star Trek - Next Generation&lt;br /&gt;
|The green parts catalog came in a white-colored binder with green colored paper inserts for the spine and cover that included the company name, parts catalog, and part number. There was no supplementary update to this catalog.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Genuine Replacement Parts Catalog (1997-1998)&lt;br /&gt;
|10/97&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1997-1998/index.html Viewer]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|This catalog mainly provides listings, parts numbers, and drawings of commonly replaceable generic pinball parts for Bally/Williams games, such as flipper assembly parts, target parts, posts, springs, connectors, coils, plungers, etc. It does not contain any game-specific information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Service Bulletins===&lt;br /&gt;
Supplementary service bulletin books were released, which included service bulletins that detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1991&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1991-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1991.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Funhouse, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Harley Davidson, Slugfest, Terminator 2&lt;br /&gt;
|This book includes some System 11 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1992&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1992-service-bulletin-book-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1992.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, Funhouse, Hurricane, Party Zone, Terminator 2&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, Fall 1992&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1992-fall-service-bulletin-book-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1992-fall.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Addams Family, The Getaway, Strike Master (shuffle alley)&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1993&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-1993-service-bulletin-book-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1993.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Black Rose, Creature From the Black Lagoon, Doctor Who, Dracula, Fish Tales, NBA Jam, White Water&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1994&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1994-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1994.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Dracula, Indiana Jones, Judge Dredd, Star Trek the Next Generaton, Twilight Zone&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, Fall 1994&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1994-fall-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1994-fall.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Popeye, Indiana Jones, Star Trek, Addams Family, Demolition Man, Flintstones&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1995&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1995-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1995.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|World Cup Soccer, Corvette&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1996&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1996-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1996.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Congo, No Fear, Indianapolis 500, Jackbot, Johnny Mnemonic, Road Show, The Shadow, Theatre of Magic&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Williams&lt;br /&gt;
|Service Bulletin Book, 1997&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Williams-service-bulletin-book-1997-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
||[http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1997.pdf PDF]&lt;br /&gt;
|Johnny Mnemonic, Junkyard, Safecracker, Scared Stiff, Tales of the Arabian Nights&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Individual Game-Specific Service Bulletins:&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #98 (5/97): Scared Stiff; Left Ramp Repair Kit. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=3915 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #99 (5/97): NBA Fastbreak; Ball trap fix. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4023 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #101 (12/97): Cirqus Voltaire; Disappearing jet bumper assembly not releasing. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4059 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #102 (12/97): Cirqus Voltaire; Installation instructions for Upgrade Kit #A-22270. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4059 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #104 (4/98): Cirqus Voltaire; Adjustment Sheet Update. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4059 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
* Service Bulletin #107 (12/99): Champion Pub; Arms breaking prematurely. [https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?gid=4358 IPDB]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
At the heart of the WPC MPU is the Motorola 68B09EP microprocessor, running at 2Mhz. Note that the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; suffix indicates externally clocked and is necessary to work in a WPC MPU. The &amp;quot;P&amp;quot; suffix merely indicates a &amp;quot;plastic&amp;quot; chip case. 6809 processors lacking the &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; suffix will &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; work in a WPC MPU. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 68B09EP is a 2Mhz, 8-bit/16-bit CPU, with a 64KB address space. Bank switching is required to address more than 64KB. Bank switching is accomplished by the ASIC in WPC systems. The game ROM size varies from 128KB to 8MB, depending on the game. 8KB of battery backed RAM is available to the processor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For more information, see [http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc/manual/The-WPC-Hardware.html#The-WPC-Hardware The FreeWPC Manual] or [https://web.archive.org/web/20110122183733/http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc/manual/The-WPC-Hardware.html Archive.org link]&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC Parts List Lookup===&lt;br /&gt;
A really nice utility has been put together by Øyvind Møll, enabling lookup of WPC parts. The utility can be used to see which games used particular parts. The utility can be found [http://www.moll.no/pinball/parts/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC System Generations===&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC CPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-089_MPU.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-089 CPU, this one from Twilight Zone, with battery holder removed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC CPU was the cornerstone of the new WPC pinball system, introduced by Williams in 1990.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board has the following features:&lt;br /&gt;
* Motorola 68B09E processor&lt;br /&gt;
* Switch matrix inputs&lt;br /&gt;
* 8k of CMOS battery-backed memory&lt;br /&gt;
* A single EPROM, sized from 128K (1 megabit, 27C128) to 1M (8 megabits, 27C080 / 27C801)&lt;br /&gt;
* Watchdog circuit and master reset&lt;br /&gt;
* Three digital I/O ports - general-purpose; display; auxiliary (labeled &amp;quot;display&amp;quot;)&lt;br /&gt;
* WPC ASIC - an 84-pin PLCC that has decoding, watchdog, and real-time clock circuitry. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Loose Chips&#039;&#039;&#039; - resets and strange behavior&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The natural heating and cooling cycle, and vibration,  in a pinball machines causes the socketed chips to slowly walk out of their sockets. This loosening can cause mysterious behavior and resets. Firmly pressing each socketed device - including the ASIC - and listening for a small click can solve many odd problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Battery Corrosion&#039;&#039;&#039; - rows of switches failing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When batteries reach old age, they always leak electrolyte. In WPC boards, this electrolyte drips onto the switch matrix circuits. There, it causes extensive corrosion. The corrosion will eat up traces under the green solder mask, creating a lumpy appearance. This corrosion is extremely destructive. It must be caught early, and gently washed with vinegar. Damaged components must be replaced, and damaged traces cleaned with a fiberglass brush and carefully tinned with a soldering iron. Battery corrosion can render a board unrepairable, or undesirable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039; The Switch Matrix &#039;&#039;&#039; - assorted switch problems&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC system, like many pinball machines, uses a switch matrix to read the switches. The matrix is 8 rows by 8 columns, and can read 64 switches with just 16 wires. Under the playfield, the wires snake between the lights, creating strings of rows and strings of columns. The lights are isolated with diodes. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The root cause of switch matrix problems on the WPC CPU is often a voltage short to the switch matrix. This can happen with residual charge from the solenoid or flasher supply, so the machine does not have to be on for damage to occur. One easy way to do this is to touch a coil lug while adjusting slingshot switches. The row detectors - the LM339s - are quite safe from everything but the 70V solenoid voltage, and will often survive that. The column drivers, however, are directly exposed to the wiring. So many shorts - from the GI; lamp matrix; flashers; or solenoid wiring can destroy the driver. A solenoid wiring short will often destroy the 74LS374 at location U14 ahead of the driver as well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The symptom of a bad driver is a column short that does not go away when the playfield is disconnected. A bad driver may also be confused by neighboring columns, so switches may register twice.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:TheCapacitorToNowhere.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This &amp;quot;missing&amp;quot; bypass capactor isn&#039;t missing at all.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC CPU is stuffed with a &amp;quot;bypass capactor&amp;quot; to the right of the ULN2803. Bypass capacitors filter high frequency noise from the 5VDC power at each integrated circuit (generally). This one...in some revisions of the PCB, isn&#039;t connected to anything on one side. It can safely be removed, or more likely, simply not be replaced when abating alkaline corrosion.&lt;br /&gt;
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===== WPC-089 Signal Map (pinouts) =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC89 CPU compnt-side ZAZ FEB2017-10.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Component Side.]][[File:WPC89 CPU solder-side ZAZ FEB2017.PNG|200px|thumb|right|Solder Side.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The two diagrams (left and right) show the signal pinout for the entire WPC-089 MPU, both front and back side view. &#039;&#039;Images provided by Sascha Voskuil.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-S CPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-SCPU.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC-S CPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-SMPU.jpg|260px|thumb|right|WPC-S CPU with daughter card intalled. Battery holder replaced with coin cell battery.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-S CPU is the second generation of WPC CPU board. The designer switched to a remote battery holder, located on a daughter board that clips to posts on the lower half of the board. This approach mostly eliminated the PCB damage caused by battery leakage. The next version of the board, the WPC-95 CPU board, switched to a plastic battery holder that doesn&#039;t provide quite as much alkaline corrosion protection to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
The board also has different switch matrix connectors than WPC and WPC-95.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The digital I/O connectors remain unchanged from the WPC CPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The most significant difference was the introduction of the security PIC. This devices contains a serial number and a handshake mechanism. The serial number is displayed at startup, and allowed the manufacturer to identify the dealer who sold a machine into a particular region. This approach was necessary when substantial price differences were common across Europe, to prevent grey imports. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To prevent simple removal of the PIC, the device also controlled the switch matrix, and would not operate without a correct machine code from the WPC CPU. Therefore, there is one PIC for each machine. An incorrect or defective chip will result in a &amp;quot;G13 error&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;U22 error&amp;quot; at startup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When buying a used WPC-S MPU, the battery holder is often missing. If connecting a battery pack, a Molex housing and 2 crimp contacts is needed. The part number for the 5 pin housing is 50-57-9405 (Digikey WM2903-ND). The crimp contacts are part number 16-02-1125 (WM2554-ND).&lt;br /&gt;
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====WPC-95 CPU====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95CPU.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC-95 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 CPU is the third generation of the WPC CPU design. It includes the security PIC added in the WPC-S system, and returns to an on-board battery holder. The new battery holder has a large plastic shell, designed to shield the PCB from any battery leakage. The pinout of the switch matrix connectors changed again from WPC-S.&lt;br /&gt;
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===== WPC-95 CPU Factory Modification =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95FactoryMod.png|200px|thumb|left|WPC-95 CPU Board factory mod. Drawing by Sascha Voskuil.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
CPUs manufactured for Jack*Bot and Congo sample games before 12-15-95 have a factory modification that includes one cut, an additional diode, and an additional resistor. Williams [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/sb86.html Service Bulletin 86] details the reason for the mod, premature loss of backup battery voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
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===WPC Power/Driver Board Generations===&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-89 Power/Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC power-driver board converts AC power from the transformer; drives the solenoids; drives the lamp matrix; drives the GI lamps; and detects flipper switch operation in non-FlipTronics machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three known variants of the WPC-89 driver board: A-12697-1, A-12697-3, and A-12697-4.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The power-driver board has the following functions:&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC089 power summary.png|240px|thumb|left|Summary schematic of WPC &#039;89 Power Driver board showing test LED&#039;s and test points.  A PDF of this image can be viewed [[Media:WPC089 power summary.pdf|here]]]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC_Power_-Driver_Board.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC Power-Driver board with Flipper Relay, or the -1 version.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerDriverBoardWithoutFlipperRelay.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC Power-Driver board without Flipper Relay, or the -3 version.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*AC rectification and smoothing for 70VDC solenoid voltage&lt;br /&gt;
*AC rectification and smoothing for 20VDC flasher voltage&lt;br /&gt;
*AC rectification and smoothing for 18VDC lamp matrix voltage&lt;br /&gt;
*AC rectification and smoothing for unregulated 12V supply&lt;br /&gt;
*AC rectification and smoothing for 5VDC flasher voltage&lt;br /&gt;
*Regulated 12V supply&lt;br /&gt;
*Regulated 5V supply&lt;br /&gt;
*6.3VAC supply for GI circuits&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;high power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; solenoids (drives 1 - 8, Q64 through Q82), with clamping diode connected to 50VDC&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;low power&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; solenoids (drives 9 - 16, Q44 through Q58, with clamping diode connected to 50VDC&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;flashers&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (drives 17 - 20, Q36 through Q42), without a clamping diode at all&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;special&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; solenoids (drives 21 - 28, Q20 through Q34), with clamping diode that must be connected to the power source driving the device. In practice, this is always the 50VDC power source.&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for lamp matrix&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for pre-FlipTronics flippers (not on all boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*Sense optos for pre-FlipTronics flippers (not on all boards)&lt;br /&gt;
*Power control for 5 6.3VAC GI channels using four-sector triacs&lt;br /&gt;
*Zero crossing sense for AC line in&lt;br /&gt;
*Logic interface to WPC CPU&lt;br /&gt;
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Generally, -3 and -4 boards can be converted to -1 boards [http://blog.myhomegameroom.com/?p=220 by simply populating the missing components].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====WPC Power/Driver Board Layout Errors=====&lt;br /&gt;
======C9 Connection Error======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerDriverBoardC9Correction.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC Power/Driver board with C9 connection corrected.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerDriverBoardC9CorrectionSchematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Image of WPC Power/Driver board schematic, showing LM323K 5VDC regulator and C9.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At the time that this PCB was laid out and manufactured, a small tantalum capacitor, located at C9, was connected to the wrong side of the LM323K 5VDC regulator. While it should have been connected to Vin, it was in fact connected to Vout. The picture at left shows a method to correct the board so that it matches the schematics, also shown at left. In this picture, an additional &amp;quot;tab&amp;quot; was added to the top bolt of the regulator and soldered to ground, creating a redundant path to ground for the regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that while the schematics show this capacitor as .33µF, it is listed as 2.2µF in each game&#039;s parts listing, matching the capacitor that is actually installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This change isn&#039;t generally considered necessary and not thought to be a significant contributor to game resets. The original purpose of the cap was to filter high frequency noise. According to the LM323K datasheet, a 1 to 2µF tantalum capacitor should be added to the input of the LM323K if the regulator is more than 4&amp;quot; away from the main filter capacitor. The regulator is just inside of 4&amp;quot; from the 15,000µF filter capacitor at C5. As it sits on Vout, it causes no harm, but does no good either.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
======J122/J124, pin 1 Connected to Board Ground======&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerDriverBoardLayoutError.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Two power/driver boards showing the factory corrected trace routing (bottom) and a later version of the board with the correction incorporated into the PCB mask (top).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some revisions of the WPC power/driver board, were manufactured with J122 and J124, pin 1, connected to board ground. This would cause whatever is connected to those connector positions, to be turned on constantly. For the game Twilight Zone, this would result in the left mini-playfield magnet being powered constantly. The picture at left shows a factory modification to the power/driver board to rectify the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
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====WPC-95 Power/Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 Power/Driver board performs all of the same functions as it&#039;s WPC predecessor, and also integrates flipper power circuits into the design, eliminating the need for the FlipTronics board present in WPC FlipTronics I &amp;amp; II games as well as WPC-S games. The bridge rectifiers are replaced by ganged 6A2 diodes and the filter capacitors were spec&#039;d down from 15,000µF to 10,000µF. While the WPC P/D board supported brightness control of 5 general illumination circuits, the WPC-95 P/D board can control brightness of only 3 general illumination circuits. The two remaining GI circuits are used for backbox illumination.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC095 power summary.png|240px|thumb|left|Summary schematic of WPC &#039;95 Power Driver board showing test LED&#039;s and test points.  A PDF of this image can be viewed [[Media:WPC095 power summary.pdf|here]]]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-95PowerDriverBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-95 Power/Driver board. This is the later model, with zero ohm jumpers installed in the GI circuit, lower left.]]&lt;br /&gt;
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===WPC Alphanumeric Display Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
The Alphanumeric display driver board was used in Funhouse, Harley Davidson, and The Machine: Bride of Pin*bot. The board still contains the high voltage handling ICs, UDN6118 and UDN7180. It also has its own high voltage generation circuit that is a carryover from earlier Williams high voltage display circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCAlphaNumericDisplayDriverFront.jpg ‎|250px|thumb|left|WPC Alphanumeric Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCAlphaNumericDisplayDriverRear.jpg ‎|250px|thumb|left|WMS A-12739-1 WPC Alphanumeric Display Driver PCB]]&lt;br /&gt;
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===WPC Dot Matrix Controller board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC DMD Controller.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC DMD Controller board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC DMD display and DMD controllers are common features in Williams 1990&#039;s era pinball machines. The display is a high-voltage plasma system that has scanning electronics built in. The WPC dot matrix controller board, or WPC-95 AV (Audio/Video) board in later machines, provides the power for operation, and maintains the display dot images in its memory. The CPU loads these pages ahead of time, then instructs the display controller to &amp;quot;flip&amp;quot; the images onto the screen. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that sometimes U12 is stuffed on this board and sometimes it is not. There is no functional difference whether U12 is stuffed or not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clive at the Coin-Op Cauldron has written an excellent article detailing some of the nitty gritty of the DMD controller. The article can be found [http://coinopcauldron.com/dotarticle.html here].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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===WPC Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC pre-DCS Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC Sound Board.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC pre-DCS Sound Board, sound ROMs removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pre-DCS sound board uses a single LM1875 amp and can accommodate up to 3 sound ROMs. With a single &amp;quot;sound lane&amp;quot; and amp, stereo sound is not possible. The three speakers are connected in series, each of them attempting to accentuate different bands of the audio spectrum. A broken wire to any of the three speakers will result in no sound at all.&lt;br /&gt;
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====WPC DCS Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC DCS Sound Board.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The WPC DCS Sound Board]]With Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure, Williams introduced the DCS sound system. Its DSP architecture was a significant improvement on earlier systems, and it allowed Williams to use recorded music from EPROM rather than synthesizer music. The board also introduced dual amplifiers and an electronic crossover. DCS allowed Williams to use compressed sound samples, significantly improving the sound quality of the games.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board dropped the microprocessor controlled synthesizer chip and sound bite system of earlier WPC machines, and replaced them with the  still in production Analog Devices ADSP-2105 DSP. For its time, this was an extremely fast device (40MHz), and is capable of providing all of the sound processing needed in a WPC pinball machine. The ADSP-2115 can also be used as a replacement for the 2105. It adds a second serial port which is not used in WMS pinballs. Williams also upgraded the chip amp. The new chip amp operates at a lower voltage, and forced a corresponding change in the transformer voltage (12VAC + 12VAC). Therefore, DCS machines have different transformer winding to previous WPC machines. The system has an electronic crossover, separating high frequencies to the backbox and low frequencies to the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The card connects to the WPC CPU through the I/O port. It shares the port with the Fliptronics board and the display board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;What&#039;s on the Board?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DCS sound board has the following subsystems:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
* Rectifier and fused power supply for +/-16VDC amplifier power [check - WPC was 35V?]&lt;br /&gt;
* Dual-channel power amplifier with electronic crossover&lt;br /&gt;
* DSP-based sound synthesizer&lt;br /&gt;
* One EPROM for DSP code storage&lt;br /&gt;
* Other EPROMS for sound storage&lt;br /&gt;
* High-speed program memory for the DSP&lt;br /&gt;
* Mailbox interface for WPC-CPU&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On power-up, the board runs a diagnostic and sounds a bong. It does this without any help from the WPC CPU. If there is no bong, the board has a problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The smoothing capacitors C20 and C21 are often at the end of their useful lives. The chip amp, like the Honey Badger, really doesn&#039;t care, and will accomodate capacitor variance. However, replacing them will make even the pre-DCS sound much richer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The coupling capacitors at C32 and C41 can fail.&lt;br /&gt;
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====WPC-95 AV Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wpc95AV.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-95 AV Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 AV board integrated the sound and video system into a single board, siginifcantly reducing power and space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board has the following major subsystems&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;ASIC&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The ASIC is a 208-pin flatpack device. It incorporates the following functions:&lt;br /&gt;
*Interface registers to CPU&lt;br /&gt;
*Memory control and display output logic for the diaplay subsystem&lt;br /&gt;
*Memory interface for the AD2105 DSP&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The ASIC has a tendency to fail in such a way that the sound disappears. New ASICs are available, but replacing them requires skill with surface mount devices. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Audio DSP&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The audio susbsystem uses the same part as the DCS sound board the Analog Devices DSP part ADSP-2105 and an AD1851 DAC. For its time, this was an extremely fast device (40MHz), and is capable of providing all of the sound processing needed in a WPC pinball machine. The AD1851N in DIP package was discontinued 2010 but the DSP is still available at Digikey and many other stores (ADSP-2105BPZ-80 ). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: lower center of board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Serial Port&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The serial port is rarely populated. Its uses include: machine debugging; machine linking ([[NBA Fastbreak]]); ticket printers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: lower left of board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Audio Amplifier&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The audio amplifier is a dual-channel TDA 2030A operating at X volts. The system has an electronic crossover, separating high frequencies to the backboox and low frequencies to the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: lower right of board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;DMD Power&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The DMD nominally requires 62, -100 and -112VDC to operate. The board uses a temperature-compensated design to supply these voltages.The -112VDC line is built as a 12V offset from the -100VDC line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: upper right of board.&lt;br /&gt;
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===WPC FlipTronics I &amp;amp; II Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
Beginning with The Addams Family, Williams implemented the FlipTronics flipper power and switch sensing system. The Addams Family and The Addams Family Gold were the only two games which used the FlipTronics I board. Subsequent games until the WPC-95 board set debuted used the FlipTronics II board. FlipTronics II boards are backward compatible with the FlipTronics I board. The three FlipTronics II board revisions (A-15472, A-15072-1, and A-15472-1) are interchangeable. The WPC-95 board set integrated the flipper electronics into the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC_Fliptronics_I_Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WPC Fliptronics I Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Fliptronics II.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC Fliptronics II Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Prior to the FlipTronics system, flipper circuit design had essentially been the same simple circuit.  This circuit consisted of power to two flipper coil windings (the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; windings).  When the flipper cabinet switch was closed, the power winding and hold winding were both energized. As the flipper plunger was pulled in, the flipper EOS switch opened, interrupting power to the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; winding, leaving only the &amp;quot;hold winding&amp;quot; energized to hold the flipper in the up position. Flipper coil systems were designed this way so a flipper could be energized indefinitely (in theory).  A failed EOS switch could result in weak flipper performance (poor EOS switch conduction) or result in burned flipper coils (EOS switch that never opens).&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The FlipTronics system ended reliance on properly operating EOS switches. While FlipTronics systems still have EOS switches, they generally are not used to control power to the coil windings. The EOS switch provides feedback to the MPU that the flipper has completed a stroke. A failed EOS switch will not cause damage to either the coil or to the switch circuitry. If the MPU doesn&#039;t receive feedback that the flipper has completed a full stroke within a specific time (milliseconds), the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; winding power will still be interrupted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a special case where a properly operating EOS switch comes into play. The EOS switch on FlipTronics games helps to keep the flipper bat in the up position when a fast moving pinball strikes the flipper. When the ball strikes the flipper, moving it toward the &amp;quot;at rest&amp;quot; position, a properly operating EOS switch will open. The FlipTronics board will then provide a path to ground for the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; winding until the flipper completes the upward stroke, closing the EOS switch again. Games with broken or malfunctioning EOS switch(es) may allow the flipper bat to drop all the way to the &amp;quot;at rest&amp;quot; position when struck by a rapidly moving ball, with possible loss of ball, and a great deal of &amp;quot;what the @#$% just happened&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;FlipTronics game flipper operation:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Flipper power is always present at the flipper coil lugs. For the flipper to actuate, that coil power needs to find a path to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
#The FlipTronics board switch sensing circuitry recognizes closure of a flipper cabinet switch.&lt;br /&gt;
#The FlipTronics board communicates closure of the flipper cabinet switch to the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#The MPU commands the FlipTronics board to provide ground for the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; winding of the flipper coil (via a circuit passing through a 2N5401, TIP-102, and TIP-36C).  This process is similar to how high powered coils are controlled by the power driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
#A few milli-seconds later (thousandths of a second), the MPU commands the FlipTronics board to interrupt the ground path for the power stroke winding and to provide ground for the hold winding portion of the coil (via a circuit passing through a 2N5401 and a TIP-102).&lt;br /&gt;
#The FlipTronics board switch sensing circuitry recognizes close of the flipper EOS switch, and communicates that switch closure to the MPU. Again, this switch closure isn&#039;t used to control power to the flipper coil windings. It&#039;s merely information.&lt;br /&gt;
#When the player releases the cabinet flipper switch, the FlipTronics board again senses that open switch, communicates the change in state to the MPU which then commands the FlipTronics board to interrupt ground to the hold winding also, and the flipper returns to it&#039;s at rest position.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WPC-95 games use the exact same methods. However, the WPC-95 board set integrates the capabilities of the FlipTronics board into the power driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The FlipTronics II board also rectifies AC voltage sourced from the game transformer, and relayed to it from the Power/Driver board to create the 70VDC flipper power (the FlipTronics I board relies an an &amp;quot;extra flipper power supply&amp;quot; to rectify the flipper voltage). A FlipTronics board can sense 8 switches, and control up to four flipper power and hold windings. In some games, spare flipper cabinet switches, EOS switches, and coil drive circuits are used for other game features.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that sometimes C2 is installed on this board and sometimes it is not. The board pictured does not have C2 installed. Since C2 is a 100µF/100V capacitor, it can&#039;t be doing too much AC smoothing of the full wave rectified flipper power. Some RGP discussions indicate that C2 may have been designed in originally to reduce EMI (electro-magnetic interference) from the board. Installing C2 will have a negligible affect on flipper power. Some report that installing C2 fixes a &amp;quot;jittery gate&amp;quot; symptom on BSD&#039;s &amp;quot;mist&amp;quot; assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More information about bench testing FlipTronics board is available [[Leon_Borre_WPC_Fliptronics_board_repair | here]].&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Miscellaneous WPC Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC 7 Opto Board (A-14977, A-15576, A-15595)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:7OptoBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Example WPC 7 Opto Board, as found in AFM and many other WPC games.]] &lt;br /&gt;
This board is a typical example of a WPC opto board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector on the lower left (as pictured) provides the power for seven IR emitters. The emitters are powered from the 12V supply through a 260 ohm resistor (the large blue resistors adjacent to the connector). Williams runs the opto emitters at about 40mA, which results in the resistors becoming hot. The opto boards are often darkened by the heat, as this one is. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector on the upper left carries the signals for the photo-transistors. The photo-transistor collector connects to 12V, and its emitter connects to ground through two 2KOhm resistors connected in series. When the transistor is illuminated by the emitter, it passes more current through the resistors, raising the input voltage on the LM339. The other pin on the LM339 is set to about 2.8V buy a 100K/22K voltage divider. Therefore, when the voltage at the junction of the two 2K resistors and the LM339 input is above 2.8V, the switch will read as closed. This happens at 1.4mA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two left side connectors can be used for optical trough switches. The connector on the right hand side provides the the row/column switch matrix interface to the MPU.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistor discoloration is cosmetic, and rarely causes problems. The biggest problem for these boards is switch matrix shorts. If any of the power lines hits the switch matrix, it can easily destroy the LM339 and possibly its output diode. This issue will manifest as a ground short on one or more rows. It can be tested by removing the switch matrix connector. If the problem goes away, the associated LM339 and possibly its diode need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the short was from the 70V supply, multiple LM339s may be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replacing LM339s on these boards needs to be done carefully, as it is easy to lift traces and pull the through-hole plating. Always socket replaced ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC 10 Opto Board (A-15430, A-18159, A-20246) ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS 10 Opto.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Example WPC 10 Opto Board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The 10 opto board was used in Bram Stoker&#039;s Dracula, Dr. Who, Indiana Jones, Pinball Circus, Popeye, Cactus Canyon, Corvette, Monster Bash, Medieval Madness, Revenge From Mars, SafeCracker, SWE1, Shadow, Congo, Indianapolis 500, and World Cup Soccer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector on the upper left carries the power for seven of the IR emitters. The emitters are powered from the +12V supply through a 260 ohm resistor (the large blue resistors adjacent to the connector). Williams runs the opto emitters at about 40mA, which results in the resistors becoming hot. The opto boards are often darkened by the heat, as can be viewed in the adjacent picture. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector on the lower left carries the signals for the photo-transistors. The photo-transistor collector connects to +12V, and its emitter connects to ground through two 2KOhm resistors connected in series. When the transistor is illuminated by the emitter, it passes more current through the resistors, raising the input voltage on the LM339. The other pin on the LM339 is set to about 2.8V by a 100K/22K voltage divider. Therefore, when the voltage at the junction of the two 2K resistors and the LM339 input is above 2.8V, the switch will read as closed. This happens at 1.4mA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These two connectors can be used for optical switch troughs. The three connectors on the right hand side each carry signals for one transmitter/receiver pair. These connections are often used for ramp entrances, and sometimes the pair is mounted on a single bracket.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector on the bottom provides the the row/column switch matrix interface to the MPU.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistor discoloration is cosmetic, and rarely causes problems. The biggest problem for these boards is switch matrix shorts. If any of the power lines hits the switch matrix, it can easily destroy the LM339 and possibly its output diode. This issue will manifest as a ground short on one or more rows. It can be tested by removing the switch matrix connector. If the problem goes away, the associated LM339 and possibly its diode need to be replaced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the short was from the 70V supply, multiple LM339s may be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replacing LM339s on these boards needs to be done carefully, as it is easy to lift traces and pull the through-hole plating. Always socket replaced ICs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another common issue is the 100uf/35V electrolytic capacitor at C1 will leak corrosive liquid that eats through the traces under it. This interrupts the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC Custom 10-Opto Board (Twilight Zone)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TZ10OptoBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Twilight Zone specific 10 Opto Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This 10-Opto board appeared only in Twilight Zone. As can be seen, it differs in pinout (at the very least) from the more ubiquitous 10-Opto board above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See &amp;quot;[http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC_10_Opto_Board_.28A-15430.2C_A-18159.2C_A-20246.29 WPC 10 Opto Board (A-15430, A-18159, A-20246)]&amp;quot;, above.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC 16 Opto Board (A-16998, A-17223)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:16OptoBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC 16 opto boards, both versions]]This board is used in at least Star Trek: The Next Generation, Junkyard, and Champions Pub. Note the two different &amp;quot;versions&amp;quot;. The bracket on one side is believed to be part number 5768-13739-00 while the bracket on the other side is believed to be part number 5768-13739-01. The boards are identical in layout and components. The only difference is bracket mounting, some silk screening, and one version has holes in the PCB which are not used.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====8 High Power PCB Assembly (A-16116)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:A16116-8-HighPowerPCBAssembly.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A 8 High Power PCB Driver Board as used in &#039;&#039;Twilight Zone&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 8 High Power PCB was used only on Twilight Zone. It has the capacity to drive 8 high power coils if fully populated. Instead, it drives 5 high power coils as populated for Twilight Zone. This simple board is merely an extension of the power/driver board solenoid drive circuitry designed to accommodate the extra coils incorporated into the Twilight Zone design. It replicates the power/driver board circuitry of the TIP-36c transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Auxiliary 8-Driver Board (A-16100)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:8 driver board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|An example 8-Driver board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The auxiliary 8-driver board sits in the top right of the backbox in a handful of WPC machines. The board is designed to run flashers, low-power solenoids, and perhaps motors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connector labeling is tricky as the 8-Driver board is controlled by a ribbon cable that is connected to the &amp;quot;Display&amp;quot; connector on the WPC CPU board (J204). The &amp;quot;Display&amp;quot; label is a historical artifact and refers to the alphanumeric display used in Funhouse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board has 8 outputs, driven by TIP-102 transistors with a 2N4403 pre-driver, similar to the WPC power/driver board (which uses a 2N5401 as a pre-driver). The board is used in the following games:&lt;br /&gt;
*Demolition Man&lt;br /&gt;
*Indiana Jones&lt;br /&gt;
*Road Show&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Trek: The Next Generation&lt;br /&gt;
*Twilight Zone&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board circuitry can be jumpered to add one or two more columns to the switch matrix. This makes the board more flexible but also may require different jumpers to use the board in different games (i.e. the boards are not completely interchangeable between games &amp;quot;as is&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jumpers to be installed for Demolition Man and Roadshow should be...&lt;br /&gt;
*PW1, PW3, PW5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jumpers to be installed for Twilight Zone, Star Trek: The Next Generation, and Indiana Jones should be...&lt;br /&gt;
*SW2, SW4, SW6&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Indiana Jones, Star Trek: The Next Generation and Twilight Zone use Q12 via the J5-1 connection to add this column. Although Twilight Zone adds the column, the column isn&#039;t displayed during switch test (T.1). The column is used to read the 8 optos in the clock mechanism.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;What Goes Wrong?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This is a pretty simple board. Generally, the problem is going to be a blown transistor, or rarely, a failed 74ALS576 latch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A problem which may occur are locked-on coils or flashers. This can be caused by the ribbon cable not being firmly seated. This can happen during the game or in attract mode and is caused by floating data line signals to the 8 Driver Board. A remedy has been found to solve this problem. This involves soldering a 10K resistor from the CLK to 5V and a resistor array 8x10K to pull down all data lines to GND. More information about this modification can be found under the [[Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation#Diode_.22Tie_Back.22_missing_causes_8-Driver_Board_transistor_to_fail|&amp;quot;Diode Tie Back Missing Causes 8-Driver Board Transistor to Fail&amp;quot; section on the Star Trek: The Next Generation page]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:STTNGDiodeTieBackAtCoilPower.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diode tie-back at the single drop target assembly. Note the small purple/green wire soldered to the target reset coil&#039;s power side (two larger gauge purple/green wires).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another thing to watch for is a &amp;quot;diode tieback&amp;quot; connection to the board for games like Star Trek: The Next Generation. Without this &amp;quot;diode tieback&amp;quot;, transistors on the 8-Driver board WILL be damaged. The diode tie-back wire is purple/green and connects from the coil power side of one of the drop target assembly coil lugs to J4 pin 1 on the 8-Driver board. If the solder connection at the coil lug is solid, suspect the wire connection at the IDC connector. Repinning this connection with good a quality crimp-on TriFurcon pin is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Overlay Board (A-13502)====&lt;br /&gt;
This board acted as a power supply for a small subset of Funhouse and Dr. Dude games during the transition from System 11 to WPC in cases where the WPC boardset still included the [[Williams_System_9_-_11#Sound_Boards|System 11 D-11581 sound board]].&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Sound Overlay Board (A-13502)]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Attack from Mars &amp;quot;Strobe&amp;quot; Board (A-20669)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:AFMStrobeBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-20669 Attack From Mars Strobe Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The strobe board at left is unique to Attack from Mars. Williams used underrated 100µF/100V non-polarized caps on the board that often fail with the telltale &amp;quot;bulge&amp;quot; at one end. The &amp;quot;transformer&amp;quot; on the board (blue rectangular box, lower/right in the picture) has very fine legs which can break due to vibration at the back of the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Excellent repair information for this board can be found [http://www.iobium.com/fixing_the_afm_strobe_board.htm here] and a possible replacement for the overloaded non-polarized capacitors [http://kcpins.com/archives/63 here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Trough opto boards====&lt;br /&gt;
When WIlliams moved to the gravity trough, they also switched to optical switches to detect the ball. The trough is covered by a Williams patent.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two generations.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS A-17982 WPC Trough Transmitter.JPG|thumb|200px|left|WMS A-17982 Trough Transmitter Board - First Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS A-17981 WPC Trough Receiver.JPG|thumb|200px|left|WMS A-17981 Trough Receiver Board - First Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
The first generation (Judge Dredd - Indiana Jones ???) used a receiver board with all of the switch logic on the board. The vibration in the trough makes extra components subject to failure. The second generation (xxx -) uses a regular opto board, and the trough receiver just has phototransistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As with all Williams opto circuits, the transmitters are driven to the very limit, and the series resistors overheat. This overheating destroys the solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, the continued vibration makes the resistor legs crack, and weakens the pins in the IDC connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Later versions used rubber grommets to isolate the boards from the trough.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What Goes Wrong?&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Parts Leads&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS WPC Trough Transmitter Reworked.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Typical Trough Opto Transmitter Boards after resistors have been replaced or soldered multiple times]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resistors on the emitter board are subject to cracked legs. Wiggle them to see if they are good. replace the resistor if there are any signs of trouble. On earlier receiver boards, inspect all components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Trough Divots&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS_WPC_Gravity_Trough_Dimpled.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Typical Trough Divots Caused by Balls]]&lt;br /&gt;
Balls make great hammers and, over time, they will beat divots into the trough floor. Then, they will then rest in the divots and cause all kinds of ball count problems. The problem is exacerbated with slightly magnetized balls. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The fix is to file them out, and then sand the metal smooth. A dremel tool with grinding stone works great for this. PinBits.com sells a nice &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; for this problem called a [http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;products_id=449 &amp;quot;Ball Trough Magnetic Jam Protector&amp;quot;] that slides in over the divots.  This product eliminates the ability of balls to rest in the divots as well as breaking any magnetic connection, because it is made from PETG plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mad Amusements offers a stainless steel version of a [http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=459 trough sleeve insert].  Although it is more costly, this is a high quality product.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WH2O Chaser Lamp Board (A-15761)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:A-15761ChaseLampBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-15761 Chase Light Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used for the chaser lamps on Whitewater. It is a simple lamp sequencing board that causes the lamps to &amp;quot;chase&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board rectifies 16VAC via BR1 and BR2 to create approximately 12VDC to power the chase lamps. The board also receives 12VDC from the power/driver board and regulates it down to 5VDC via an LM7805. This 5VDC is used for the logic level ICs on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====CFTBL Chase Light II Board (A-15541)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:5768-13221-02.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-15541 Chase Light II Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used for the chaser lamps located around the ramps and whirlpool bowl in Creature From the Black Lagoon.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Eight BT138 triacs, which are predriven by 2N4403 transistors, control eight discrete lamp strings.  In addition to the lamps chasing, the lamp strings can be dimmed for effect.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Current Driver Board (C-13963)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:C-13963HighCurrentDriverBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C-13963 High Current Driver board as used in NBAFB and Funhouse.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board drives the jaw motor for the playfield heckler Rudy in the game Funhouse.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bi-Directional Motor Board (A-15680)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:A-15680BiDirectionalMotorBoardSchematic.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-15680 Bi-directional Motor Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:TraceCloseup-A15680.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Close up view of traces under A-15680 filter capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in Cirqus Voltaire, Dr Who, Party Zone and White Water.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One problematic aspect of the board&#039;s design is that the 100µF electrolytic cap is mounted over the trace that carries 12VDC power to the drive transistors. If the electrolytic cap fails and leaks it&#039;s corrosive contents, it will eat through the trace and the board won&#039;t work correctly. If this happens in WH2O, Big Foot will not turn his head during game test at boot up. The board pictured at left exhibited this problem and was repaired. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that this cap, C2, was sometimes not stuffed at the factory. It&#039;s purpose is to filter noise from the 12VDC power, but the power is clean enough that this cap isn&#039;t really necessary. Note also that the schematics for the board are in error, designating this 100µF/25V cap as C1 instead of C2 as is silkscreened onto the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another seemingly prevalent issue with this board is failure of the diodes. If either D8 or D9 fail, the associated motor will turn ONLY counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board is controlled by two transistors on the driver board. One transistor &amp;quot;enables&amp;quot; movement of the associated motor. The other determines whether the motor moves clockwise or counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Double Flipper Opto Switch Board (A-15894)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-15894 Flipper Opto Board Mounted on the Cabinet Wall]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in early WPC games which used the Fliptronics II board starting with Doctor Who (please confirm first game).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note when testing these boards, the right flipper board has to be plugged in for the left board to function.  This is due to the +12v and ground connections being daisy-chained through the right board PCB to the left board.  The manuals will typically claim the opposite.  And in some cases, the +12v is daisy-chained via the right opto board, while the ground is daisy-chained via the left opto board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is always best to check the wiring in the game.  If two gray or orange wires are connected on one side of the cabinet, the +12v and / or ground are daisy-chained to the the opposite side.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====HSII &amp;amp; CFTBL Triac board (A-13088-2)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WMS_A-13088-2_Triac_Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|A-13088-2 Triac Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in High Speed 2: The Getaway (for the beacon motor), CFTBL (for the hologram motor), and Hot Shot (basketball redemption game). This triac board was also used in the System 11C game, Whirlwind, under board number C-13088.  It was used to control the topper fan.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the board is single sided, fractured solder joints are frequently a problem with this board, especially at C1 for some reason. The other failure point on this board is the MOC 3031 otpoisolator.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 24 Inch Opto Board (A-15646) ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:24InchOptoBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC 24 Inch Opto Board as used on BSD and Shadow]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: This board is sometimes referred to as the &amp;quot;24 Switch Opto PC Board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used on Bram Stoker&#039;s Dracula to sense the &amp;quot;Mist Ball&amp;quot; and on Shadow to sense when the ball is at the bottom of the mini playfield. The board is also used in Star Wars: Episode 1, NBA Fastbreak, Judge Dredd, and Hot Shot (basketball redemption game). The usual problem with this board is that the large inductor (marked &amp;quot;106C&amp;quot; in the picture) vibrates off the board. The circuitry on this board is similar to a television remote control circuit. It senses a particular signal frequency.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====TAF &amp;amp; TAFG High Power Board (A-15139)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC A-15139 High Power Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|A-15139 High Power board as used in TAF and TAFG]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board (aka magnet board) drives the three under playfield magnets used on The Addams Family and The Addams Family Gold.  It is located under the bottom left of the playfield.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====TAF &amp;amp; TAFG Extra Flipper Power Supply (A-15416)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC A-15416 Extra Flipper PS.JPG|200px|thumb|left|A-15416 Extra Flipper Power Supply board as used in TAF and TAFG]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board powers the flippers for The Addams Family and The Addams Family Gold.  It is located just to the right and just above the driver board in the backbox.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The Shadow Five Switch and Diode P.C.B. (A-13940) ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TheShadowDiodeBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This board was used only on &amp;quot;The Shadow&amp;quot; to provide lamp matrix diode isolation for the 4 &amp;quot;Ring Grain of Wheat&amp;quot; lamps, in-situ.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TheShadowDiodeBoardBare.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The bare board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board was used only on &amp;quot;The Shadow&amp;quot; to provide lamp matrix diode isolation for the 4 &amp;quot;Ring Grain of Wheat&amp;quot; lamps. Yes, that&#039;s really it&#039;s name.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coin Door Interface Board==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CoinDoorInterfaceBoardAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC/WPC-95 Coin Door Interface Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The coin door interface board provides signal connection between the coin door switches and the WPC switch matrix and dedicated switches like the &amp;quot;diagnostic&amp;quot; and volume control buttons. The coin door interface board also creates the &amp;quot;always closed&amp;quot; switch 24 by bridging column 2 and row 4 with a diode. WPC games use this &amp;quot;always closed&amp;quot; switch to identify switch matrix power issues.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the coin door interface board gets dusty from flipper parts wearing, clean it. That dust is conductive and may cause odd coinage issues. There really isn&#039;t much that can go wrong with this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC Alphanumeric Plasma Display Board==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:FHDisplayComponentSide.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The component side of the Funhouse / Bride of Pinbot WPC alphanumeric display.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:FHDisplayGlassSide.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The display glass side of the Funhouse / Bride of Pinbot WPC alphanumeric display.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Funhouse and The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot used dual 16-Alphanumeric displays, and a special (specific) high voltage power supply/logic board. The high voltage circuit is similar, if not identical, to late System 11 high voltage power circuits.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Harley Davidson also used dual 16-alphanumeric displays, however, they were placed side by side on separate boards, instead of being &amp;quot;stacked&amp;quot; on one board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Scared Stiff Crate Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:ScaredStiffCrateBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The &amp;quot;Scared Stiff&amp;quot; Crate Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This simple board mounts to the top of the Scared Stiff crate. It creates the &amp;quot;eyes&amp;quot; that look out the top of the crate. It contains 8 LEDs, 4 current limiting resistors, and 4 diodes, which isolate the LED &amp;quot;lamps&amp;quot; in the lamp matrix. Very little can go wrong with this board other than fractured solder joints, since it lives in a high vibration area of the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====DC Motor Control Board (A-16120)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:A-16120DCMotorControl.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-16120 DC Motor Control Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in Cactus Canyon, Demo Man, Monster Bash, No Good Gophers, The Shadow, Twilight Zone, Theater of Magic, World Cup Soccer.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bridge Driver PCB Assembly (A-15946)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:A-15946DCMotorControl.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A-15946 Bridge Driver PCB Assembly]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This board is used in Indiana Jones and Hot Shots Basketball. The board is close in design to the A-16120 DC Motor Control Board (above). For Indiana Jones, it controls the Path of Adventure motor, which must turn both clockwise and counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This simple assembly receives 12VDC power and ground, along with two solenoid connections to the driver board. Grounding one pin of the connection causes +12VDC to be output at the motor power pins. Grounding the other pin will cause -12VDC to be output at the motor power pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Indiana Jones uses solenoid 22 to move the POA left and solenoid 23 to move the POA right. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Indiana Jones Path of Adventure (POA) Opto Board ==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:IJPOAOptoBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The Indiana Jones POA opto board. The optos are identical to those used on cabinet flipper switch opto boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This simple board is used in Indiana Jones to provide &amp;quot;travel limit&amp;quot; feedback to the MPU for the POA. Typical problems include fractured solder joints, since the board experiences a lot of vibration from the POA motor, as well as simple opto failures.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Corvette/Road Show Dual H-Drive Motor Control Board (A-19159/A-19242-1)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMSMotorDriveBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Dual H-Drive Motor Control Board (A-19159/A-19242-1)]]&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Dual H-Driver Motor Control Board&amp;quot; is used on Corvette and on Road Show. For Corvette, it drives the two small motors that animate the two car race track on the right side of the playfield. For Road Show, it controls both Red and Ted&#039;s mouth motors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While the board has two different part number designations, they are, in fact, identical.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Corvette Z5 Master (A-18532) and Slave Boards (A-19625)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bally Corvette A-18532 Motor Driver Master.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bally Corvette A-18532 Motor Driver Master]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bally Corvette A-19625 Motor Driver Slave.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Bally Corvette A-19625 Motor Driver Slave]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This pair of boards work together to &amp;quot;rev&amp;quot; the ZR1 LT5 engine toy on the upper left side of the playfield. The master board senses the position of the motor unit using a Hall Effect sensor located below the engine toy assembly. The slave board uses 20V power and four TIP-102s to control four coils below the playfield on the ZR1 LT5 assembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Debugging information for the ZR1 LT5 assembly can be found [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Corvette#LT-5_Engine_Electronics_issues here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== WPC A-13901 (and variants) Opto Ramp Switch Board (3 Opto Controller) ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Placeholder for 3 Opto Controller Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several variations of the A-13901 3 opto controller board used on several games.  Games such as CFTBL, Fish Tales, High Speed 2, Hurricane, Slugfest, Funhouse, and Hot Shot all used some version of this board.  The part numbers used are: &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901-1-AI    &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901-1       &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901-2      &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901-3      &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901-AI      &lt;br /&gt;
*A-13901    &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Coin Doubler Board ==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCCoinDoublerInSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An Aftermarket &amp;quot;Coin Doubler&amp;quot; Board, shown attached to a WPC MPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This aftermarket add-on board connects atop the direct switches connector on the WPC MPU. It intercepts the coin switches and, for each switch closure it sees, sends the computer two closures. This &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot; effectively halves game pricing.  This was done because Williams removed the one-coin-per-play pricing for some games to try and force a price increase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These are still for sale from [http://www.twobits.com/coindblr.html Two Bit Score].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Coils===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WPC games use different flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application.  Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!colspan=&amp;quot;4&amp;quot; |WPC Flipper Coils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Color&lt;br /&gt;
!Strength&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11753 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weakest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11722 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Weaker ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11630 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Standard ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-15411 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FFA500&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Orange &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Stronger ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|FL-11629 || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; || Strongest ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelCoilWindings.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Note the windings of this typical WPC coil. The larger wire is the high power winding, the smaller wire is the hold winding. Both wires are soldered to the lug on the left.]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC Transformers===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Transformers&lt;br /&gt;
!| Part&amp;amp;nbsp;Number&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp; || Description&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp; || Distinguishing Features || Games&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12718-00 || WPC, 115/230v || (18VAC sound) alphanumeric || BoP, FH, HD &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|5610-12835-00 || WPC3, 115/230v || (18VAC sound)  || BoP, BR, BSD, CFTBL, DW, FH, FT, GI, HD, HS2, Hot Shots Basketball, Hurricane, PZ, Slugfest, T2, TAF, TAFG, TZ, WH2O&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13491-00 || WPC Power || (12VAC sound) || IJ, JD, Pinball Circus, Popeye, STTNG&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|5610-13953-00 || WPC94 || (female line input) || Corvette, DH, DM, FS, RS, Shadow, WCS&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-00 || WPC Wide Mount || || AFM, Congo, I500, JB, JM, NF, SC, SS, ToM, TOTAN, WD&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-14515-01 || WPC Wide Mount || || AFM, CC, CP, CV, Congo, I500, JB, JM, JY, MB, MM, NBA, NF, NGG, SC, SS, ToM, TotAN, WD&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-15930-00  || transformer p2000 || || RFM&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5610-15930-01  || transformer p2000 || || SWE1&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Primary Voltage Selection Jumpers at the Transformer====&lt;br /&gt;
On all WPC games, there are either a 9 pin or 12 pin Molex connector used to change the primary voltage setting fed to the transformer. 9 pin connectors were connected to a pigtail off the transformer itself.  Later units used a 12 pin connector on the power source metal box located inside the cabinet floor on the right just inside the coin door.  Depending on the placement of the jumpers, common configurations are 115v (typical domestic setting), 230v (European setting), and 100v (Japanese setting).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is common to change the voltage setting (220 to 120 volt conversion) if a game is re-imported back into the US. Although probably more common at the moment is to convert a domestic game to 220 volts (more games are currently being exported from the US than imported).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All voltage selection pins are .093 molex pins. Removal of the pins requires a special molex  tool. See [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Headers.2C_Housings.2C_and_Crimping &amp;quot;Headers, Housing, and Crimping].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Early WPC Transformers (9 pin connection)====&lt;br /&gt;
The 9 pin connectors used are Molex 19-09-2099 (butterfly connection w/jumpers) and Molex 19-09-1099 (connection on transformer pigtail).&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerSelectButterfly.jpg|200px|thumb|left|9 Pin WPC Transformer Power Configuration, configured for US 115V systems.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Jumper settings for 115V should be as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 1 - black - 115v &amp;quot;hot&amp;quot; input&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 7 - white - 115v &amp;quot;neutral&amp;quot; input&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 2 and 3 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 8 and 9 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:230VLineVoltageConfiguration.jpg|200px|thumb|left|9 Pin WPC Transformer Power Configuration, configured for 230V systems.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Jumper settings for 230V should be as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 1 - black - 115v &amp;quot;hot&amp;quot; input&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 7 - white - 115v &amp;quot;neutral&amp;quot; input&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 3 and 9 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Later WPC Transformers (12 pin connection)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Plug2.JPG|200px|thumb|left|12 Pin WPC Transformer Power Configuration, configured for US 120V systems]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Plug1.JPG|200px|thumb|right|12 Pin Connector as Found inside later games]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Jumper settings for 120v should be as follows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1 and 11 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 2 and 3 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 7 and 10 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 8 and 9 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 12 pin connector used is Molex 19-09-1129.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCEuropeanPowerSelectSascha12Pin.jpg|200px|thumb|left|12 Pin WPC Transformer Power Configuration, configured for European 240V systems]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Jumper settings for 240V should be as follows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 1 and 11 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 7 and 10 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
*Pins 3 and 9 jumped together&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Jumpers, RAM and ROM size ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC089Jumpers.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of WPC-089 MPU that uses a 6264 RAM and a 4M game ROM. Note jumpers W1, and W2 to set ROM size as well as W3 (out) and R93 (in) to set RAM size.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC089MPUwith62256RAM.jpg|300px|thumb|Right|Closeup of WPC-089 MPU that uses a 62256 RAM and a 4M game ROM. Note jumpers W1, and W2 to set ROM size as well as W3 (in) and R93 (out) to set RAM size.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;RAM Size&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-089 MPU can be configured for two different RAM sizes. This is done with jumper W3 and resistor R93 as shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
*6264 RAM - W3 out, R93 in (a 1.5K 1/4W resistor)&lt;br /&gt;
*62256 RAM - W3 in, R93 out&lt;br /&gt;
Both RAM sizes work fine in all games. Williams probably provided this flexibility to allow use of whichever RAM was cheaper or more available. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Most NVRAM replacements are 6264 replacements.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC95RAMSizeJumper.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Closeup of WPC-95 MPU that uses a 62256 RAM. Note jumper W3 is installed to set the RAM size for a 62256 RAM.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 MPU can be configured for two different RAM sizes. This is done with jumper W3 (only) as shown below. R93 is always installed.&lt;br /&gt;
*6264 RAM - W3 out&lt;br /&gt;
*62256 RAM - W3 in&lt;br /&gt;
Again, both RAM sizes work fine in all games and most NVRAM replacements are 6264 replacements.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;ROM Size&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU can also (and needs to be) jumpered for different ROM sizes. This becomes important when upgrading ROMs or swapping a CPU (and ROM) into a different game. Games like Funhouse shipped with a 1M ROM, jumper W2 in, and jumper W1 out. Updating the Funhouse ROM to a larger size ROM requires W1 in and W2 out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The official Williams ROM size/jumper settings are shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
* 512K/1M - W1 out, W2 in&lt;br /&gt;
* 2M/4M - W1 in, W2 out&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Test ROMs===&lt;br /&gt;
Test ROMs are available from [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/testroms.html Planetary Pinball], but they should only be used in conjunction with a [http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/board-rework-test/243-building-a-wpc-test-fixture test fixture] and not installed in an actual game, as per the official recommendation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Country DIP Switch (or jumper) Settings ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCCountryCodeJumperMessage.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Country Code Jumper message.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The message shown at left occurs sometimes when the game software seems to want the &amp;quot;country code&amp;quot; jumpers to be configured in a certain way. The simple solution (for English speaking users) is to remove the jumpers noted in the message by cutting them off. This sets the board to &amp;quot;AMERICA2&amp;quot;. Twilight Zone, and perhaps game ROM version 9.4H, seem to prefer the &amp;quot;AMERICA2&amp;quot; country code. Other country code jumper configurations are shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCCountryCodeJumpersExample.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Two WPC-089 MPUs, one configured with DIP switches, the other with &amp;quot;zero ohm resistors&amp;quot; (jumpers).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Two WPC-089 MPUs are shown at left. Early versions of the MPU used &amp;quot;zero ohm resistors&amp;quot; or jumpers to figure the country code. Later versions of the MPU (as well as WPC-S and WPC-95 MPUs, used DIP switches.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If a dip switch is installed, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;always leave W11 and W12 in the OFF position&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. If both are set on ON, the undervoltage detection circuit on the WPC Power/Driver will not work and both LED2 and LED3 will always remain on.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCCountryCodeJumperTable.jpg|400px|thumb|left|WPC-089 Country Code Jumper Table]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The complete WPC-089 country code jumper table is shown at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95CountryCodeJumperTable.jpg|400px|thumb|left|WPC-S/WPC-95 Country Code Jumper Table]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The complete WPC-S/WPC-95 country code jumper table is shown at left. WPC-S/WPC-95 MPUs do not have an &amp;quot;AMERICA2&amp;quot; configuration.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power-On LEDs and Sound Tones (Bongs)===&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is booted, several LEDs in the backbox will light, and the game may provide sound &amp;quot;bongs&amp;quot; to indicate diagnostic status.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A properly booting WPC game will show a &amp;quot;progress bar&amp;quot; on the DMD along with a &amp;quot;ticking&amp;quot; sound which results from a series of reset signals being sent to the sound board. After a successful boot, the sound board will create a single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; tone.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== LEDs on the MPU ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: WPC and WPC-S games label the MPU and Power/Driver board LEDs as &amp;quot;Dxx&amp;quot;. WPC-95 games label these same LEDs &amp;quot;LEDxxx&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
*D19 (LED201) - &amp;quot;Blanking&amp;quot;. This LED should light when power is applied, then after about 1 second, go off and stay off. If D19 remains on, this is an indication that the blanking circuit is turned on which prevents the game from powering coils. The blanking circuit was implemented to eliminate the possibility of damaging the game due to locked on coils when the CPU isn&#039;t operating properly.&lt;br /&gt;
*D20 (LED203) - &amp;quot;Diagnostics&amp;quot;. Once the blanking LED turns off, this LED should begin blinking and remain blinking as long as the game is turned on. This LED is a simple &amp;quot;I&#039;m working&amp;quot; indication from the MPU. This LED is toggled from pin 35 of the ASIC (DLED signal). D20 will also indicate basic issues with the MPU by blinking as such...&lt;br /&gt;
**One blink - problem with the game ROM.&lt;br /&gt;
**Two blinks - problem with the game RAM (or accessing the RAM, i.e. open traces).&lt;br /&gt;
**Three blinks - problem with the ASIC (WPC) or a problem with the security chip (WPC-S and WPC-95).&lt;br /&gt;
*D21 (LED202) - &amp;quot;5VDC present&amp;quot;. This LED provides a simple indication of the presence of 5VDC. This LED isn&#039;t CPU controlled. It&#039;s illuminated by a simple 5VDC connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCLEDBehavior.jpg|800px|thumb|left|&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Graphic provided by Ingo Kramer. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCLEDBehaviorUpdated.gif|800px|thumb|left|&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Graphic provided by Sascha Voksuil. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== LEDs and test points on WPC-089 Power/Driver Boards ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;LED/Test Point&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Explanation&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED1-TP3&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of regulated 12VDC (12VR). AC voltage is rectified to about 18VDC by BR1 and smoothed by C6 and C7 (this power is tapped for the lamp matrix). D1 and D2 are used to drop the voltage by 1.0 to 1.4V and then the voltage is further regulated down by the LM7812 at Q2. This 12VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+12V Digital&amp;quot; on the schematics. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F114.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If LED6 isn&#039;t lit, LED1 won&#039;t be lit either.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED2-no TP&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || If installed, provides an indication of high/low line voltage. This LED isn&#039;t very useful as it will flicker as power consumption by the game fluctuates.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED3-no&amp;amp;nbsp;TP&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || If installed, provides an indication of high/low line voltage. This LED isn&#039;t very useful as it will flicker as power consumption by the game fluctuates. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED4-TP2&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of regulated 5VDC. AC voltage is rectified by BR2 and smoothed by C5. The voltage is regulated down by the LM323K at Q1. This 5VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+5V Digital&amp;quot; on the schematics. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F113.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED5-TP7&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of unregulated 20VDC. AC voltage is rectified by BR4 and smoothed by C11. The voltage is used to power the flash lamps. Note that beginning sometime during production of Twilight Zone in 1993, a &amp;quot;coin door interlock&amp;quot; switch was added. This switch interrupts power to both the 20VDC and 50VDC circuits when the coin door is opened, providing a measure of safety against higher voltage shocks. If the coin door is opened with power applied, this LED will fade to off. It will not light with the coin door open. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F111.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED6-TP8&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of unregulated 18VDC. AC voltage is rectified to about 18VDC by BR1 and smoothed by C6 and C7. This 18VDC power is used to power the lamp matrix lamps. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F114.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED7-TP1&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. AC voltage is rectified to about 12VDC by BR5 and smoothed by C30 to provide unregulated 12VDC power. This 12VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+12V Power&amp;quot; on the schematics. It is used to power motors, optos, and other game features that do not require a precise 12VDC. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F116.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;TP4&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Zero Cross. By using an oscilloscope, this test point allows testing of the &amp;quot;zero cross&amp;quot; circuitry. &amp;quot;Zero cross&amp;quot; is when the AC sine wave crosses through the zero voltage point relative to ground. Zero cross is important for the proper operation of the general illumination lamp circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;TP5&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ground&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. This test point stud may be used to measure all DC voltages against.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;TP6&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || 50VDC power. This test point will actually measure 70 - 75VDC. This power is used for all coils in the game. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;This power is fused by F112. Individual coil power circuits are fused by F101 thru F105&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC089 power summary.png|800px|thumb|center|Summary schematic of WPC-89 Power Driver board showing test LED&#039;s and test points. A PDF of this image can be viewed [[Media:WPC089 power summary.pdf|here]]]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== LEDs and test points on WPC-95 Power/Driver Boards ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;LED/Test Point&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Explanation&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED100-TP100&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of regulated 12VDC. AC voltage is rectified to about 18VDC by D11-D14 and smoothed by C11 and C12. D1 and D2 are used to drop the voltage by 1.0 to 1.4V and then the voltage is further regulated down by the LM7812 at Q2. This 12VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+12V Digital&amp;quot; on the schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED101-TP101&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of regulated 5VDC. AC voltage is rectified by D7-D10 and smoothed by C9. The voltage is regulated down by the LM317K at Q1. This 5VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+5V Digital&amp;quot; on the schematics. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED102-TP102&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of unregulated 18VDC. AC voltage is rectified to about 18VDC by D11-D14 and smoothed by C11 and C12. This 18VDC power is used to power the lamp matrix lamps, and is subsequently regulated to 12V for use in the switch matrix. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED103-TP103&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. AC voltage is rectified to about 12VDC by D3-D6 and smoothed by C8 to provide unregulated 12VDC power. This 12VDC power is shown as &amp;quot;+12V unreg&amp;quot; on the schematics. It is used to power motors and other game features that do not require a precise 12VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED104-TP104&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of unregulated 20VDC. AC voltage is rectified by D15-D18 and smoothed by C10. The voltage is used to power the flash lamps. Note that a &amp;quot;coin door interlock&amp;quot; switch is present on all WPC-95 games. This switch interrupts power to both the 20VDC and 50VDC circuits when the coin door is opened, providing a measure of safety against higher voltage shocks. If the coin door is opened with power applied, this LED will fade to off. It will not light with the coin door open. &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;LED105-TP105&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Normally lit. Indicates presence of unregulated 50VDC. This test point will actually measure 70 - 75VDC. This power is used for all coils in the game. AC voltage is rectified to about 75VDC by D19-D22 and smoothed somewhat by C22.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;TP106&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || Zero Cross. By using an oscilloscope, this test point allows testing of the &amp;quot;zero cross&amp;quot; circuitry. &amp;quot;Zero cross&amp;quot; is when the AC sine wave crosses through the zero voltage point relative to ground. Zero cross is important for the proper operation of the general illumination lamp circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;TP107&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ground&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. This test point stud may be used to measure all DC voltages against.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC095 power summary.png|800px|thumb|center|Summary schematic of WPC-95 Power Driver board showing test LED&#039;s and test points. A PDF of this image can be viewed [[Media:WPC089 power summary.pdf|here]]]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Power on Sound Tones (Bongs) ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a successful boot, the game should make a single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; sound. The game provides a sound board problem indication with the following number of bongs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pre-DCS Sound Board Games.&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - U9 RAM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - U18 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - U15 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - U14 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DCS Sound Board Games.&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - U2 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - U3 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - U4 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - U5 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - U6 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - U7 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*8 - U8 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*9 - U9 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*Note - DCS sound board RAM failures are indicated by a message on the display, &amp;quot;U10-U12 RAM error&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Audio/Video Board Games (WPC-95).&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - S2 ROM failure. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Two bongs also occur if jumper W3 is IN, and the RAM size is 6264. If an NVRAM was just installed, check this jumper. See the section on [[Williams_WPC#Jumpers.2C_RAM_and_ROM_size | jumpers]].&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - S3 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - S4 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - S5 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - S6 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - S7 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*10 - U9, U10, or U11 RAM failure (see below)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95U9-U11Error.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC-95 boot time RAM error message, accompanied by 10 very annoying bongs.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95U10U12Message.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-95 boot time RAM error message, accompanied by 10 very annoying bongs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A/V sound board RAM failures are indicated by a message on the display, either &amp;quot;U9-U11 RAM error&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;U10-U12 RAM error&amp;quot;. This is apparently game software dependent. A/V RAM are, in fact, U9-U11. Apparently, this message wasn&#039;t updated in the software with the introduction of the A/V board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Fuses===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fuses are used to protect the various game circuits when a problem arises and the circuit begins to draw more current than originally designed to draw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best way to test a fuse is to remove it from it&#039;s fuse holder and &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; it with a DMM set to continuity. This method will prevent false positives via &amp;quot;sneak circuits&amp;quot;. When removing fuses from a RottenDog aftermarket power/driver board should be done with extreme care as the fuse clips are easily bent and damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC/WPC-95 Fuse Tables====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCFuseList.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC Fuse Table from Twilight Zone.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95FuseList.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-95 Fuse Table from Monster Bash.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A typical WPC fuse table is shown at left, WPC-95 fuse table at right. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== F111 Blows, Testing BR4 With Board Still Installed====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingWPC-BR4-InSitu.gif|200px|thumb|left|Click this image for an animation showing how to test BR4 without removing the power/driver board. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Animated gif provided by Sascha Voksuil, aka PinSider ZaZa. Used with permission.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Fuse F111 sits between the transformer secondary and BR4. BR4 recitifies AC power for the flash lamps. If BR4 failes shorted, F111 will blow, protecting the transformer secondary winding.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BR4 can be tested &amp;quot;in situ&amp;quot; using the method shown in the animated gif at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Testing DC Voltages on the Power/Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
A YouTube video showing how to test each of the voltages on the WPC-089 Power/Driver board can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uz6bnFiCki0&amp;amp;lc=UgwKkBxANoJnz3Xjr3Z4AaABAg here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Removing or Installing the ASIC===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ASICRemovalTool.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Using a PLCC puller to properly remove the ASIC. Grip firmly, and &amp;quot;rock&amp;quot; the chip out gently.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should ASIC need to be removed from a WPC MPU, it is strongly advised that tthe proper tool is used, as shown at left. The tool is called a PLCC puller. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DamagedWPC-ASIC.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This ASIC was damaged by not using the proper removal tool.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCCrackedASICSocket.jpg|200px|thumb|right|This cracked ASIC socket caused intermittent operation of the game.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Using a jewelers screwdriver or other such tool can fracture the ASIC chip carrier socket as shown at right. Since these are 84 pins sockets, replacement is non-trivial. Using the incorrect tool may also irreparably damage the ASIC itself by permanently fracturing leg joints, as shown at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC89ASICOrientation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Correct orientation relative to the PLCC socket, shown here for a WPC-089 or WPC-S MPU board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The ASIC &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;must&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be oriented correctly when installed. Pin 1 of the ASIC is marked with a dot impression on the top of the chip. Pin 1 of the PLCC socket is marked with an arrow pointing to pin one. This is true for all versions of WPC MPUs. Orient the ASIC as shown in the picture at left relative to the arrow in the socket, center the chip over the socket, and press firmly on the chip center.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== WPC ASIC Pinout ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ASICIcon.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC ASIC pinout and board connections|link=https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:WPCASICPinOutRevisionA.pdf]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking on the thumbnail at left will open a .pdf file containing pin connections for the WPC (in work) and WPC-S MPUs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ASICPinOutSmall.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC ASIC pinout and board connections|link=https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/e/e1/WPCASICPinoutviaZaza.jpg]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking on the thumbnail at left will open a .pdf file containing a graphic image of the ASIC pinout, &#039;&#039;provided courtesy of Sascha Voskuil&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game blows power line circuit breaker immediately===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPowerBoxInside.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Underside of power box showing varistor and thermistor]]&lt;br /&gt;
Had a thunderstorm roll through or a power surge from the electric company recently?&lt;br /&gt;
The varistor in the power box may have done it&#039;s job protecting the rest of the game&#039;s circuitry from the possibly tremendous power surge.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Signs of a failed varistor are typically black, charred discoloration throughout the &amp;quot;button&amp;quot; portion (green in the case of the adjacent picture) of the varistor.  Likewise, varistors can blow rather violently, and there may be charred or burnt remains in the area surrounding the varistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Over time, the rating of a varistor will lower, causing &amp;quot;occasional&amp;quot; blowing of the mains fuse. The varistor will visually appear to be OK. A good hint is how violently the fuse blows. Likely varistor problems will cause the fuse to totally obliterate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Varistors can be purchased from [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=76 Great Plains Electronics].  Order the 130V variant for 120VAC (typically games in the US), and the 275V variant for 240VAC (typcailly games in Europe).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Credit Dot===&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:Credit dot sttng.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Example credit dot on Star Trek The Next Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The credit dot is a decimal point (a single, lit pixel on the display), that appears after the number of credits or after the words free play on the DMD display on WPC games.  It is a quick indicator used to tell the operator or owner that there may be an issue with the game.  Most commonly, there is a switch or multiple switch problems with the game.  However, a credit dot will appear for other reasons, such as when the date and time are not set.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If, after 30 balls or 10 games, a particular switch hasn&#039;t registered, the credit dot is posted to alert the user to check the diagnostics.  Some high usage switches will trigger the alert earlier.  The credit dot may or may not indicate a real problem.  For the example shown in the pic, it&#039;s simply reporting a switch that is hard to hit in the game.  So, the credit dot is actually saying &amp;quot;Play Better&amp;quot;. :-)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Battery Issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC CPU Bat Damage.JPG|left|thumb|200px|An example of worse than usual battery damage]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Relocating the 3xAA battery pack from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of MPU boards. Simply removing the batteries is not an option with WPC games as a message stating &amp;quot;Factory Settings Restored&amp;quot; will be received when the game boots.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several options other than allowing the battery pack to remain on the MPU board.  Below are the two most common methods.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first, most common, and most economical option is to remotely locate the battery holder off the MPU board and somewhere below all other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won&#039;t leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board. Replace the batteries annually, dating them with a Sharpie. Connections are as follows. With the CPU oriented as it would be in the game, solder the red (positive) wire to the upper right battery pack position. Solder the black (negative) wire to the lower left battery pack position. Note: most battery packs do not come with wire leads long enough to allow the battery pack to rest in the backbox bottom. Lengthen the wires as necessary.  As can be viewed in the adjacent picture, a male / female .093&amp;quot; Molex connector was added to easily remove the battery pack from the MPU board should the need arise.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;WPC, WPC-S, and WPC-95 Remote Battery Holder Connections.&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WPC MPU Battery Relocate.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WPC-089&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WPC-SMPUBatteryConnections.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WPC-S&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WPC95RemoteBatteryHolder.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WPC-95&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Installing an external battery on a WPC-95 CPU using the Auxiliary Battery header (J213)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95AuxBatteryHeader.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Installed Remote Battery Connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95RemoteBatteryOption.jpg|200px|thumb|right|An alternate, but equivalent method. Positive and Negative are clearly labeled.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 CPU board has an unused external battery connector just above the battery holder. The connector is labeled J213 AUX BAT. The 4 pads can be seen in the above picture of the CPU with the old holder removed. Installing this 4-pin connector is a good and clean way to get the batteries off the board and prevent alkaline damage. The Molex part number for the C-Grid® SL™ 70543 4 pin connector is 70543-003 (Digikey WM4802-ND). Crimp pins for the female side are 16-02-1125 (WM2573-ND) and the housing is 50-57-9404 (WM2902-ND). The WPC-S CPU uses a 5 pin version of this connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Warning: Do not use both the internal and external connector at the same time. Doing so will likely damage the batteries. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Settings Not Held or Battery Depletes Rapidly====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC MPU D1 D2.JPG|left|thumb|200px|A WPC MPU board with D1 and D2 circled. D1 and D2 are in the identical location on the WPC-S MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-95MPUD1D2.jpg|right|thumb|200px|A WPC-95 MPU board with D1 and D2 shown in the middle of the picture, just below the battery holder]]&lt;br /&gt;
During the process of installing a remote battery holder, it is a good practice to check the diodes utilized in conjunction with the battery power.  Diode D2, a 1N4148, is used to keep the MPU board&#039;s logic power from charging the batteries in the battery pack.  Diode D1, a 1N5817, is used to keep the battery pack from powering the entire MPU board when the games&#039;s power is turned off.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*If D2 fails shorted, 5VDC power will be applied to the batteries while the game is turned on. The end result is batteries which die prematurely, possibly leak, and/or possibly explode (alkaline batteries do not like to be charged). &lt;br /&gt;
*If D2 fails open, the batteries will not power the static RAM, and the &amp;quot;FACTORY SETTINGS RESTORED&amp;quot; message will be displayed when the game boots. &lt;br /&gt;
*Should D1 fail, the batteries would more than likely just deplete prematurely.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingForPowerAtRAM.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Probing pin 28 of the WPC-95 MPU RAM IC for Vbb (battery backup power)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:6264RAMPinout.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Pinout of the 6264 RAM. Note Vcc, upper right, pin 28]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Testing to see if battery backup power is reaching the RAM with sufficient voltage is easy. &lt;br /&gt;
*Set your DMM to DC Voltage&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the black probe to game ground (in the picture at left, a clip lead is attached to the ground screw)&lt;br /&gt;
*Use the red lead to probe pin 28 of the RAM&lt;br /&gt;
Measuring in this way should yield over 3.5 VDC. If measuring shows 0 VDC, either the batteries are dead, or D2 has failed (see above).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ideally, this measurement should yield 1.5 VDC * 3 - .6 VDC = 3.9 VDC. This calculation represents the nominal voltage delivered by a single AA battery, times 3 (batteries), less a typical .6 VDC drop across diode D2. Remember that nominal voltage drop across a typical diode is .5 to .7 VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Replacing the CPU RAM with non-volatile RAM===&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCR93.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A WPC-089 MPU board with 6264 RAM, jumper W3 removed, and R93 in place.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A second option is to replace the 6264 static RAM with an NVRAM such as the RAMTRON FM1608 (or FM16W08) or the SIMTEK STK12C68. NVRAMs in the standard DIP package are becoming hard to find but several pinball parts vendors sell a nice 6264 replacement NVRAM based on these parts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This method requires desoldering the OEM RAM from the board, and installing a socket on the MPU. Using NVRAM also has the down-side of not maintaining the Real Time Clock. This is meaningless in some games. But some games use the Real Time Clock, like Twilight Zone which moves the playfield clock to the current time of day during attract mode, and Who?Dunnit which has a &amp;quot;Midnight Madness&amp;quot; feature. Note: the WPC MPU is designed to accept either a 6264 or a 62256 static RAM. See: [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Jumpers.2C_RAM_and_ROM_size Jumpers, RAM and ROM size] for a description of jumpers required when installing a new RAM or NVRAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCCorrosion.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A WPC-089 MPU board, after a couple hours of alkaline corrosion abatement.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:AlkalineCorrosionCleanupWithLampSocketCleaner.jpg|200px|right|thumb|Using a &amp;quot;lamp socket cleaning stick&amp;quot; for precision removal of alkaline corrosion. These can be acquired at The Pinball Resource.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Alkaline damage abatement on WPC MPUs is generally more difficult than Bally -17/-35 or Stern MPU-100/200 or Gottlieb System 80 MPUs. The traces on WPC MPUs are finer, and more abundant than on any of those boards. And, the &amp;quot;banks&amp;quot; of resistors and ceramic capacitors below the ULN-2803 and LM339s provide numerous hiding places for alkaline damage. The small traces under these components implement the switch matrix on the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If alkaline abatement is attempted, and if the ULN-2803 or LM339s are damaged, using any technique &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;other than&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; cutting them off the board, heating the alkaline damaged pads, and pulling the leftover legs out, WILL damage the board further. The alkaline adheres to the component legs and through-holes very strongly, making it near impossible to remove the component using typical desoldering tools, no matter how skilled the individual is.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As is normally done during this process, sand with fine grit sandpaper (or use an abrasive stick as shown on the right for precision work) until bare copper can be seen, treat the board with 50/50 white vinegar/water to neutralize the alkaline, then rinse thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol or other favorite cleaner. Re-tin the exposed traces.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Replacing an Alkaline Corroded LM339 on a WPC-089 MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM339-1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A corroded LM339&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM339-2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;After cutting one side off, then bending repeatedly to break the other side off&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM339-3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Socket installed. All done&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:RottenDogAlkalineCorrosion.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A Corroded WPC-089 Aftermarket RottenDog MPU board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The RottenDog WPC-089 MPU board pictured at left is an extreme example of corrosion creep. Corrosion moved all the way up the remote battery holder wires and onto the MPU. Abating alkaline corrosion on RottenDog MPUs is particularly difficult as the traces and vias are very, very small.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;WPC-95 MPU Alkaline Corrosion Zone&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPC95MPUCorrosionAreaParts.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Part identification in the WPC-95 MPU corrosion zone.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams located the batteries for the WPC-95 MPU in an even worse location than on WPC-089 and WPC-S boards. With the batteries located above the ASIC socket, there is a substantial probability that severe damage could occur from leaky batteries. The usual alkaline abatement process should be followed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Key:&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Resistors - Blue&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Capacitors - Yellow&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Diodes - Red&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Integrated Circuits - Green&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Headers/Jumpers - Black&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that at least two revisions of the WPC-95 MPU board were produced, each with a slightly different part layout.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Slam Tilt ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCSlamTilt.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A WPC game (STTNG) that has been &amp;quot;slam tilted&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WPC games incorporate a slam tilt switch on the back side of the coin door. When closed, the game immediately stops, and the display fills with diagonal lines, as pictured at left. Note that this is not a power problem like a &amp;quot;game reset&amp;quot;, below.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Stuck Menu Settings (WPC-95)===&lt;br /&gt;
* Clear all the audits and reset to factory defaults. &lt;br /&gt;
* If using a battery for the RAM, remove/disconnect the batteries for a few minutes. Power up and check the settings to verify whether or not settings have become unstuck, then power off and reconnect the batteries.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Stuck Language Setting (WPC-95)====&lt;br /&gt;
If the MPU is stuck on a language (such as Spanish) and it won&#039;t change no matter how many times a change is attempted in the settings menu, and one or both of the flipper optos are bad, be sure to first replace those flipper optos or opto boards before attempting to troubleshoot further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Otherwise:&lt;br /&gt;
* Be sure to check the DIP switch language settings and make sure they are set for the proper language.&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:Wpc95-dip-switch-language-chart.png|250px|thumb|left|DIP Switch language setting chart]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure there is continuity between points on the PCB through each switch.&lt;br /&gt;
* In the test menu, go to test T.15 &#039;Dip Switch Test&#039; to check that it matches what is actually set on the MPU dip switches.&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:Wpc95-dip-switch-test.jpg|250px|thumb|left|DIP Switch test]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* If the dip switches are not matching what is in the test, it&#039;s possible that the DIP switches are dirty and may need to be replaced, or there could be a problem with U11 (74LS240) or its corresponding connection points or traces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Power Problems with the RottenDog aftermarket power/driver board (fuse clips) ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:RottenDogFuseClips.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Fuse clips on a RottenDog WPC power/driver board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The fuse clips used on the popular RottenDog aftermarket power/driver boards are a bit brittle and do not snap back into position if too much bending force is applied to them, much like Data East power supply fuse clips. Once the fuse clip has been bent too much, it will not snap back into position to create a solid mechanical connection to the fuse. This can cause one of the various power voltages to be missing or intermittent.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game resets===&lt;br /&gt;
One of the more annoying faults exhibited by WPC machines is the chronic reset problem. The game will restart, often when both flippers are used at the same time. Note that game resets are a power issue. &amp;quot;Slam Tilts&amp;quot; are something completely different (see above).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several possible reasons for game resets. Before doing &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;any&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; work on the circuit boards, it is recommended that a number of much easier to fix, and just as probable root causes, be examined. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Possible causes are listed below, in the recommended order of examination. This order is a derived from a combination of &amp;quot;ease of examination&amp;quot; crossed with &amp;quot;probability of root cause&amp;quot;. The standard advice dispensed on RGP to change BR2 and C5 is often wrong and unnecessary. If BR2/C5 are changed out and the game no longer resets, some will conclude that, sure enough, BR2/C5 was the problem. What is being missed is that along with replacing those components, at the very least, the connectors on the board are being reseated, the solder on the cap and bridge is being reflowed, and the board ground to the backplane is perhaps better due to torquing the screws better. Any of these changes can improve voltage/current enough to reduce the frequency or eliminate resets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The &amp;quot;Replace BR2 and C5 Mantra&amp;quot; ====&lt;br /&gt;
And now, a word on the classic &amp;quot;BR2/C5 mantra&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A long time ago…in a pinball galaxy far, far away…a kindly fellow was playing a nice game of pinball, hitting all the shots, and earning multiball after multiball. Just as he was about to beat the game’s high score to date, the WPC game MPU reset. &amp;quot;Not-A-Finga&amp;quot; he yelled in some ancient, dead, language. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A visitor from the neighboring planetary system noted that, &amp;quot;I once fixed that by replacing BR2 and C5&amp;quot;. And lo, the mantra was born.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, through advances in both our knowledge of these game systems, and the application of clearer thinking, we’ve come to realize that leaping to the “solution” of replacing components before doing real testing is not advisable. Most pinball owners do not possess the skill, experience, and tools that would allow them to work on circuit boards without damaging an expensive, and sometimes irreplaceable board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Still, with regular frequency, a post will be read on RGP or PinSide that goes something like this…&amp;quot;My game was resetting so I replaced BR2 and C5 and the resets vanished.&amp;quot; This logical construct is known as [https://www.logicalfallacies.info/presumption/post-hoc/ &amp;quot;Post hoc, ergo propter hoc&amp;quot;] (after this, therefore because of this), an insidious logical fallacy that states &amp;quot;Since that event followed this one, then that event must have been caused by this one&amp;quot;. Clearly, this is an invalid assumption. The fallacy lies in coming to a conclusion based solely on the order of events, rather than taking into account other factors that might rule out the connection.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In reality of course, when components are removed and replaced on a circuit board, the attendant &amp;quot;changes&amp;quot; to the state of the game system include…&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# reseating connectors and possibly improving electrical conductivity&lt;br /&gt;
# possibly changing the connectivity through fractured solder joints which may be flexed differently&lt;br /&gt;
# reseating the entire board in the backbox and possibly improving ground for the board&lt;br /&gt;
# reflowing solder joints on both components possibly improving electrical conductivity&lt;br /&gt;
# possibly improving heat dissipation from the bridge to the heat sink by replacing thermal grease&lt;br /&gt;
# perhaps an air conditioner, refrigerator, or heater has shut off thereby increasing available electrical current&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So please, hold off on heating up the soldering iron until methodically working through the disciplined process in the following section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== WPC 5VDC Power Derivation Path ====&lt;br /&gt;
Following is the nominal path from the wall plug to eventual consumers of the clean 5VDC power supplied by the Power/Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCPowerSelectButterfly.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC Transformer Power Configuration Plug, configured for US 120V systems.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#120VAC/60Hz power is nominally provided at the wall plug. Different voltages are accommodated also (see below)&lt;br /&gt;
#An RFI (radio frequency interference) filter, which is seldom a contributor to game problems.&lt;br /&gt;
#Line power is connected to a service outlet sometimes incorporated into the metal &amp;quot;power box&amp;quot; and made available to the tech via a short, uniquely plugged, extension cord. Line power is wired in parallel and does not require the power switch to be in the ON position.&lt;br /&gt;
#Both sides of the AC power pass through the double pole/double throw (DPDT) game power switch&lt;br /&gt;
#The &amp;quot;black&amp;quot; side of the AC power passes through an 8A FB fuse housed in a bayonet style (screw in) fuse enclosure.&lt;br /&gt;
#The &amp;quot;black&amp;quot; side of the AC power then passes through the thermistor, which limits current inrush into the system.&lt;br /&gt;
#&amp;quot;Butterfly&amp;quot; voltage select connector used to accommodate typical voltage systems used around the world (120VAC in US, 230VAC abroad, low line voltage, etc). When configured for 120VAC in the US, the connector and wiring resemble a butterfly. &lt;br /&gt;
#Transformer Primary windings&lt;br /&gt;
#Transformer Secondary windings&lt;br /&gt;
#Yet another Molex connector, mating with the harness that will eventually lead to the Power/Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Some games incorporate a &amp;quot;coin door interlock switch&amp;quot; which interrupts coil and flasher power when the coin door is open. If the game is equipped with this switch, there will be an extra Molex connector necessary to implement this switch.&lt;br /&gt;
#J101 on the Power/Driver board (WPC-95: J129)&lt;br /&gt;
#Full Wave AC rectification and smoothing via BR2 and C5 (WPC-95: D7 through D10 and C9)&lt;br /&gt;
#Regulation to 5VDC via the LM323K at Q1 (WPC-95: LM317 at Q1))&lt;br /&gt;
#Lighting LED4... (WPC-95: LED101)&lt;br /&gt;
#And finally, delivery to 5VDC power consumers via J114, J116, J117, and J118 (WPC-95: J101, J138, J140, and J141)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPC95LM317VoltageAdjustResistors.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC-95 Voltage Adjust resistors R1 and R1]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the LM317 is an adjustable voltage regulator where the LM323K is a 5V specific regulator. The LM317 is &amp;quot;programmed&amp;quot; to 5.108V using precision resistors R1 (750 ohms) and R2 (243 ohms), located just to the right of the LM317 heat sink. It is possible, although not advised, to adjust the output of the LM317 regulator to something other than the nominal 5.108 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Possibly Skip Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
If the game is resetting &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;only&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; within the first minute or two, and plays fine after that, skip to [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Failed_Thermistor Step 8, Failed Thermistor]. If the thermistor turns out to not be the cause, return to step 1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The &amp;quot;Quick&amp;quot; but Temporary &amp;quot;Fix&amp;quot; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCJ101InSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Connector J101 In-Situ (bottom of picture)]]&lt;br /&gt;
A quick but temporary fix might be to reseat (remove and then reinstall) J101 and J114 on the Power/Driver board and J210 on the MPU board several times. This might help in two ways. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, the tarnish that builds up on the male/female connections might be removed slightly. This might be enough to return your game to service quickly. But this is not a long term repair. The proper repair is to repin both the male and female sides of the connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Second, the physical point where the male/female pins meet becomes &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; over time. That is, the pins develop micro-divots or irregularities that detract from a perfect connection. Reseating the connection may smooth out the defects that have formed and also might move the physical point of contact to a different part of the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, reseating these connectors is a temporary fix that might work for a day, a week, or a month.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Low Line Voltage ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 1: measure line voltage&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:TestingLinePower.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Measure line power at the wall plug that the game is plugged into (not on the bench, as shown here). Almost 118VAC...Nice...]]&lt;br /&gt;
Low line voltage can occur for several different reasons...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Peak summer usage may cause a drop in line voltage (at the wall). Nominal voltage should be 115VAC minimum.&lt;br /&gt;
*Too many games or &amp;quot;power hungry&amp;quot; devices on the same circuit. This is common when numerous devices are plugged into a power strip.&lt;br /&gt;
*Game(s) plugged into an extension cord or power strip with too small of wire gauge. If the game is plugged into an extension cord, make sure that it carries all three conductors and is constructed of &#039;&#039;&#039;at least&#039;&#039;&#039; 16 gauge wire, or specified as 16/3. Using a beefier 14/3 extension cord is better, and advised if more than one game is plugged into the cord.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the machine is resetting, open the coin door and measure the AC voltage at the auxiliary socket with the machine turned off, and then with the machine turned on. If the voltage at the auxiliary socket is over 105VAC, the problem is most likely inside the game. If the voltage is below 105VAC, there is a line voltage problem and the local electricity company&#039;s help will be needed to correct the problem.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Poor Ground Connection for Power/Driver Board ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 2: Make sure the power/driver board is screwed down tightly&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:PoorWPCDriverBoardConnection.jpg|200px|thumb|left|As my friends in Texas might say, &amp;quot;that dog won&#039;t hunt&amp;quot;. All backbox boards must be securely screwed down.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A poor ground connection from the power/driver board to the backbox ground plane can reduce 5VDC by as much as .3 volts. Ensure that the screws that hold the power/driver board down, secure it tightly.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cracked Power or Ground Header Pins and Cracked Solder Joints at the 5V Fuse ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 3: Examine the header pins at J101, J102, and J103 as well as at the LM323K regulator (WPC-95: J136 and J137)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCGroundHeaders.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Cracked header pin solder joints at J103 in a Twilight Zone, causing game resets.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Similar to step 2 above, cracked header pins where the power enters the board or at the ground connections on the board can cause game resets. In the picture at left, cracked header pins at J103 (ground) in a Twilight Zone caused game resets. Either reflow the solder, or better yet, replace the headers with new pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:FracturedSolderJointLM323K.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Fractured solder joints at the LM323K 5V regulator (WPC-95: LM317), causing game resets.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another place to examine for fractured solder joints is on the solder side of the board, where the LM323K (WPC-95: LM317) 5VDC regulator is placed. This area is subjected to very high temperatures that sometimes causes the solder to crystallize. If the solder joint is in any way suspect, remove the old solder and reflow new solder on the joint. Ensure that a nice solder &amp;quot;meniscus&amp;quot; is created (a volcano shaped solder joint) versus a &amp;quot;doughnut&amp;quot; around the wire lead.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:F113CrackedSolderJoint.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Fractured solder joints at fuse F113.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Fuse F113 (WPC-95: F105) fuses the 5V power for the game. Fractured solder joints here may cause the DMM to read near 5V, yet the joint doesn&#039;t allow enough current to pass. This can cause game resets and even cause the game to not boot. Reflowing the solder at these joints is prudent.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Missing diodes, open diodes, or cold solder joints at the Flipper coils ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 4: Examine flipper coil diodes&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ParallelCoilWindings.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Example flipper coil diodes shown on a FL-15411 flipper coil.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WPC flippers are, in general, the only coils in the game that should have diodes across the coil lugs. While diodes seldom fail, sometimes the pounding environment that flipper diodes must live within causes solder joints to fail. Ensure that each flipper coil has the required two diodes, that the diodes are good, and that they are soldered to the coil lugs with a quality solder joint.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Poor Connections between the Transformer Secondary and the Power/Driver Board ====&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 5: Examine the &amp;quot;cube shaped&amp;quot; molex connector in the cabinet&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCTransformerSecondaryConnection.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The 15-pin Molex &amp;quot;cube&amp;quot; connector. The red wires carrying 9VAC to the Power/Driver board can be seen here.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The connections from the transformer secondary to the Power/Driver board can degrade over time, a natural result of hours and hours of &amp;quot;power on&amp;quot; time. Try re-seating each connector. If the reset frequency is reduced or disappears, then the root cause has probably discovered. These connectors should be repinned at a minimum with at least new pins (the connector housings may be salvageable) for a long term solution.  It is especially important to re-pin the red 9VAC wires that carry power to the Power/Driver board as this is converted to the 5VDC logic voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: the molex pin extractor for these &amp;quot;round&amp;quot; pins is relatively expensive but there is no other good way to remove the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Poor Connection at J101 on the Power/Driver Board ====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Step 5.5: Examine both male and female connectors at J101 (WPC-95: J129)&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCJ101InSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Connector J101 In-Situ (bottom of picture)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
J101 (WPC-95: J129) connects the transformer secondary supply of both 9VAC (solid colored red wires, ultimately used to create 5VDC power) and 13VAC to the power/driver board. This connector often becomes tarnished, increasing resistance and reducing the effectiveness of the circuit. Reseating the connector may temporarily reduce reset frequency. This is an indication that this connector should be repinned. As always, it&#039;s best to repin both the male and female connectors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Poor Connections between the Power/Driver board, the CPU, and other PCBs ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 6: Examine other wiring harnesses and the connectors&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCPickingUpGround.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A convenient location to find ground in a WPC backbox.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCTesting5VDCatTP2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Measuring DC voltage at the 5VDC test point, TP2.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Measure DC voltage at TP2 (WPC-95: TP101) on the Power/Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
#DMM set to DC volts (if not an auto-ranging meter, expect to measure 5VDC)&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead secured to game ground (the ground braid in the head is a good place to pick up ground)&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on TP2 (WPC-95: TP101). Remember the reading.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCTesting5VDCatGameROMPin32.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Measuring DC voltage at pin 32 of the game ROM]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Measure DC voltage at the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Again, DMM set to DC volts&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead in the same place&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on pin 32 of the game ROM, or on pin 2 (center pin) of the MC34064 under voltage watchdog at U10&lt;br /&gt;
#Record this reading&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Compare the two readings. ANY difference indicates voltage loss across the connectors. Some voltage loss is expected/natural since no circuit path can provide zero resistance. A difference of .1VDC is enough to warrant examination of the connectors between J114 (WPC-95: J105)on the Power/Driver board and J210 on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reseating the wire harness that connects the power-driver board to the CPU board may identify the root cause (but reseating is not a long term solution). &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCZConnector.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; connector, as used in Twilight Zone, etc.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCZConnectorHarness.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The entire harness containing the &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; connector in Twilight Zone can be removed from the game for easier repinning.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some games use an interceptor harness to power extra boards (IJ, TZ, WH20, STTNG, FT, etc). There is a inline splice connector (commonly called a Z-connector) between the driver board and the CPU board. The Z-connector can become loose and/or oxidized, contributing to a poor electrical connection between the female connectors. The Z-connector can be replaced with a new one, or more robustly, eliminated by splicing the wires together, soldering, and heat-shrinking. This entirely removes the Z-connector as a contributing factor to game resets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At least on Twilight Zone, the wire harness that contains the &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; connector can be removed from the game entirely, as shown at right. This harness has been repinned and the &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; connector eliminated.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:PoorIDCConnections.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A poorly &amp;quot;repunched&amp;quot; IDC connector. This connection was probably &amp;quot;punched&amp;quot; with a small flat-blade screwdriver. Note the bare wires where the insulation has been damaged. Yikes!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some field techs will &amp;quot;repunch&amp;quot; IDC connectors in an attempt to make a better connection. Without the correct punch tool, sometimes an even worse connection is created, as pictured at left. If the decision is to use IDC connectors, at least use the correct tool to punch the wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCWornPowerConnectionJ210.jpg|200px|thumb|left|MPU connector J210. This connector has had the plating worn off right where the female connector mates with it. When mated with a worn female connector, increased resistance results in reduced voltage, causing resets and possibly failure to boot.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Tarnished, heat damaged, or damage to header pin plating creates resistance and can sometimes be a contributor to game resets. If the male header pins are tarnished, their female mates are probably tarnished also. If tarnished pins are found, now might be a good time to remove that aspect as a contributor to game resets. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If following this step-by-step process, now is the first time that a soldering/desoldering station will be needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replace the male header pins, remembering to clip the correct &amp;quot;key&amp;quot; pin before reinstalling the board into the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replace the female connector and pins with good quality Trifurcon crimp-on pins. IDC (Insulation Displacement Connectors) connectors as found originally on the game were used by the OEM to speed the manufacturing process and do not provide the level of robustness that can be achieved using Trifurcon crimp-on pins and good technique.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another possible contributor to poor power connections is cracked header pin solder joints. Although, with WPC double-sided PCBs and the relatively large header pin through-holes, this is rarely seen. Should you identify cracked header pin solder joints, it&#039;s best to remove as much of the old solder as possible before reflowing new solder at the joint.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be sure to check the power connections on the display as well. One documented repair involved a Funhouse with a reset issue. The game had a strong +5V signal on the MPU/CPU, a new BR2/C5 and digital voltage regulator. It would play perfectly until someone nudged the machine causing it to reset. During troubleshooting, it was noted that the game would reset (even in attract mode) when the display was lifted out of the backbox or placed back in it. It was then observed that the 2 wire/3 pin power connector had a loose IDC connection. The ground short through vibration was resetting the CPU! Repinning both the male and female ends of this connector with a proper molex housing resolved the issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a Multimeter to Test the Bridge Rectifier and Capacitors ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 7: Bridges and Caps in circuit&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCTestingBR2RectifiedDCVoltage.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Measuring &amp;quot;un-smoothed&amp;quot; DC voltage output from BR2. The voltage is smoothed later by C5. This bridge is functioning properly.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s one last test we can do before disassembling parts of the machine. This test can clearly identify a bad bridge rectifier or capacitor. You will need a clip lead. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#With the machine off, clip the lead onto the top left lead (positive) of BR2. You will have to do this by feel, as you cannot see the lead. This clip point is the output of the bridge rectifier, and is connected to the smoothing (filter) capacitor and LM323K regulator input. It should be at 9V DC. &lt;br /&gt;
#Next, place the other clip on the red (+) lead of your meter.&lt;br /&gt;
#Connect the black lead to ground by tucking it under the braid. Check your installation to make sure that nothing is shorting.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Set your meter to DC volts.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn on the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The meter should read about 9V. This will be true whether C4/C5 are working or not. If the bridge rectifier is bad, it will read about 7V. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the capacitor, turn your meter to AC volts. Note that inexpensive meters may give false readings here. Ideally, your meter should be a true RMS meter. Good capacitors will read about 300mV AC. Bad capacitors will read up to 2VAC. Anything over 1VAC indicates a failed/failing filter capacitor at C5 which should be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Failed Thermistor ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 8: Examine the Thermistor&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCPowerBoxInside.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A look inside a typical WPC power box. This particular box was from a Fish Tales. The Thermistor is grey, the varistor is green.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The thermistor is (generally) a black or grey disk, about the size of a dime. It is located inside the power box which is found just inside the coin door and to the right. If your game has one (and not all WPC games do), it will be connected in series between the power box fuse and the black side of AC power. Note that the power box may also contain a &amp;quot;varistor&amp;quot;, or MOV, which is essentially a surge protector. The varistor will be wired in parallel with (across) the AC power. The varistor is not a factor in game resets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thermistor&#039;s job is to limit current inrush into the capacitors when the game is first powered on. This reduces stress on the bridge rectifiers or diodes in the game&#039;s power circuits (which is the primary cause of bridge rectifier failures). After a few seconds, the thermistor heats up and drops to a very low resistance. Failing thermistors pass less current and have to get hotter to work. This heating takes time, so the game will often reset in the first 30 minutes of operation, and then be fine afterwards. Obviously, a cold environment will make the symptoms worse, and a warm room may appear to cure the problem.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resetting while the game warms up is therefore a key indicator of a failing thermistor. Note also that DCS and WPC-95 A/V boards may reset independent of the MPU. If this is the case, you&#039;ll hear the characteristic same &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; as when the game boots.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;***Safety Warning***&#039;&#039;&#039; Unplug the game &#039;&#039;&#039;AND&#039;&#039;&#039; turn the game off before conducting the following test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, the thermistor may be visibly damaged. However, it may look good and still be bad. An easy test of the thermistor is to jumper across the legs of the thermistor with a heavy gauge wire. If the game resets no longer occur, replace the thermistor with the correctly rated part. The original Williams part number is 5016-12978-00. A replacement is available from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=5016-12978-00 Great Plains Electronics].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While you have the box open try wiggling the connectors (the game &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;IS&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; unplugged!) you probably will find at least one that is loose  - this can contribute to reset issues. The fix is to solder all the crimp quick connect ([http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:DSCF0810.JPG examples on coil]) wires to the pins they were connected to in the box: cut the quick connects off, one at a time, and then solder the wires directly. Insulate the connections with Heat-Shrink or a good grade of electrical tape.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Questionable Prior Rework ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 9: Examine prior rework&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printed circuit boards used in pinball machines sometimes have traces on both sides of the board. Most WPC boards are manufactured in this way. The traces are joined through the board by a thin layer of copper, plated to the inside of the hole. This plating is delicate. Without great care, the plating can pull out or crack when components are removed, especially alkaline damaged components as found on MPU boards (after batteries have leaked) and &amp;quot;snap caps&amp;quot; as found on OEM WPC Power/Driver boards (at C5 for instance). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Extreme care as well as good technique must be exercised when removing these components as it is very easy to lift traces or damage through-holes on the board. If the component is known to be bad, it is sometimes easier to snip the component from the board with a flush cutter and remove each leg of the component individually. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An excellent way to repair a lifted trace or cracked through-hole is to create a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 solder stitch] between the traces on each side of a two sided board. Some PCB repairmen will install jumpers as a &amp;quot;repair&amp;quot; for cracked through-holes or to &amp;quot;guarantee&amp;quot; connectivity between components. Some PCB repairmen will avoid the use of jumpers in favor of better looking rework.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Failed Capacitors ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 10: Power smoothing capacitors at end of life&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPC-C4InSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C4, shown &amp;quot;in-situ&amp;quot; on a typical WPC Power/Driver Board. A new C4 cap has been installed on this board (100µF/10V). Nice job by the installer orienting the cap so that its value is in easy view!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors do not last forever. They are designed to operate for about 1,000 hours at their full rating. Capacitor life is a function of temperature: the cooler the capacitor operates, the longer the life. The system designer must select higher voltage and capacitance ratings to achieve the design life, which can be as short as 5 years in a pinball machine operated continuously in a warm environment. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC Power/Driver board uses a 15,000µF, 25V capacitor at C5 to smooth the full wave rectified AC from BR2. When this capacitor is no longer smoothing the rectified AC well enough to produce a clean 5VDC, the voltage may drop below the threshold enforced by the watchdog circuit on the MPU (an MC34064 at U10). When this happens, resets sometimes result.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that commonly available replacement capacitors are rated to 35V, and will work fine for this application. In general, you may use a capacitor rated for higher operating voltages but the capacitance specification (µF, or micro-farads) should not be changed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
C4 (spec&#039;d at 100µF, 10V, axial) can sometimes fail and cause the game to reset also. If you&#039;ve gotten this far and are replacing C5, you might as well replace C4 too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:PulledThroughHole.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A good view of a 15,000uf cap, with a pulled through hole still on the left lead (the brown donut looking object)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:DomedFilterCap.jpg|200px|thumb|right|C5 (lower) and C11 (upper) on a WPC-089 power/driver board. C11 is clearly &amp;quot;domed&amp;quot;, a physical indication of it&#039;s failure.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Removing the big 15,000uf capacitors on a WPC-089 power/driver board is a bit tricky. More often than not, an amateur will damage the through hole that connects one side of the board to the other, either severing the connection completely, or badly enough to cause intermittent reset issues. Should the through hole be pulled, a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 solder stitch] needs to be installed, or &amp;quot;jumpers&amp;quot; need to be installed connecting the associated bridge rectifier to the capacitor. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Advice:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Without the experience, tools, and technique to accomplish this task, most hobbyists would be well advised to send the board to a pro for rehab.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Failed Bridge Rectifier ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 11: Test Bridge Rectifier #2 (BR2)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thermistor protects the bridge rectifiers from inrush current. Still, bridge rectifiers will occasionally fail. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Four Connections to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left illustrates the 4 readings to be taken when testing a bridge rectifier.&lt;br /&gt;
	 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Procedure:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
	 	&lt;br /&gt;
#Place your DMM into &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot;.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the &amp;quot;oddball&amp;quot; lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn&#039;t oriented the same as the others (as with the &amp;quot;spade&amp;quot; type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the &amp;quot;wire lead&amp;quot; type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge. 	&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge&#039;s internal diodes).&lt;br /&gt;
#Swap locations of the red and black leads. A reading of &amp;quot;null&amp;quot; should be seen.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the &amp;quot;oddball&amp;quot; lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge	&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.	&lt;br /&gt;
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen.&lt;br /&gt;
#Swap locations of the red and black leads. A reading of &amp;quot;null&amp;quot; should be seen.		&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit. This part of the bridge is good.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;	&lt;br /&gt;
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not &amp;quot;hard and fast&amp;quot;. For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; or a &amp;quot;short&amp;quot;. Note also that this test is not conducted &amp;quot;under load&amp;quot; and it is possible for the bridge to test &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc).	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Brdg 1and2 Removed2.JPG|160px|thumb|left|Applying heat transfer grease (heat sink compound) to the new bridge rectifiers.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Brdg 1and2 Removed3.JPG|200px|thumb|right|New bridge rectifiers screwed to heat sink before placing on driver board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Should you decide to replace the bridge, it is best to screw the heat sink to the bridge before soldering it in place as the heat sink is shared between BR1 and BR2. A small amount of heat sink compound between the bridge and the heat sink is necessary. This compound improves conduction of the heat away from the bridge and into the sink.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some repair tips suggested cutting the heat sink in half, separating it into two parts, one part for each bridge. This technique is no longer considered to be a best practice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder both the top and bottom solder pads of the bridge. Should the through-hole of the bridge leads be cracked or otherwise damaged, use the &amp;quot;[http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 solder stitch]&amp;quot; technique noted above or install jumper wires between the DC outputs of the bridge and the terminals of C5. When clipping the leads of the wire bridge, do not cut into the solder &amp;quot;meniscus&amp;quot; (the &amp;quot;volcano&amp;quot; of solder around the wire lead). Cutting into the solder meniscus can cause cracked solder joints later.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Brdg 1and2 Removed.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Bridge rectifiers 1 and 2 removed elegantly with a desoldering iron.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Brdg 1and2 Reinstalled.JPG|160px|thumb|right|New bridge rectifiers installed, and replacement date noted.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With proper desoldering tools, like the Hakko 808 or Hakko 470D, removal of bridge rectifiers and other components is greatly simplified.  After replacement of bridge rectifiers is made, it&#039;s not a bad idea to mark the replacement date.  In doing this, you or anyone else will know when these were replaced, and more importantly that they were replaced.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Failed Voltage Regulator ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Step 11: When all else fails...&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The LM323K 5V regulator is a robust device, but it can drift over time to below the design requirement of 4.8VDC. If your 5VDC reads less than 4.8VDC at the test point, or less than 4.75V on the CPU board, you have to replace the regulator. Note that these voltages are compliant to the LM323K&#039;s spec. However, at the lower end of this spec, this lower voltage may be the cause of resets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EZ-SBC-PS5.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The EZ-SBC PSU5 modern adjustable switching voltage regulator]]&lt;br /&gt;
If you decide to replace the LM323K regulator you may wish to consider using an [http://www.ezsbc.com EZ-SBC PSU5] instead.  The PSU5 is a 5V 3A high-efficiency switch-mode regulator that is a direct replacement for the LM323K in terms of form factor and current capacity; it is superior to the LM323K due to its reduced power dissipation.  When using the PSU5 be sure to replace the KEPS nuts (nuts with captive lock washers) originally used to mount the LM323K with discrete #6 split lock washers and #6-32 hex nuts; the external tooth lock washer of the KEPS nut can contact one of the surface-mounted components on the PSU5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The EZ-SBC PSU5 has one side affect that may be annoying. At power off, instead of the customary &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot;, the speakers emit a loud volume &amp;quot;machine gun&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;fart&amp;quot; sound. While this might be unnerving, it is perfectly harmless. An example of the sound can be heard [https://youtu.be/L4MDGddZanI?t=80 here] near the end of the video.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Failed Electrolytic Capacitor on the MPU ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 12: Failed C31 on the MPU&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FailedC31onWPCMPU.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C31 on the MPU. This Philips capacitor has most likely failed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There is one more possibility. C31 acts as a filter on the WPC-089 MPU. It is a 100µF, 10V capacitor, connected between incoming 5VDC and ground. Williams used two primary suppliers for this capacitor, Philips and Illinois Capacitor. If the capacitor is grey with black markings and has the logo &amp;quot;iC&amp;quot; on it, then it is from Illinois Capacitor and is likely ok. However, if the capacitor is blue and shows the manufacturer as Philips, you should replace it as it is most likely bad. The small Philips capacitors in particular have shown an increasing failure rate as these machines get older. This does not only apply to their use on the CPU but anywhere else in the machine. Which means the same rule applies to C4 on the power driver board - if it&#039;s a Philips capacitor replace it. If it&#039;s an iC capacitor it is likely OK. If you have a spare CPU, swapping the suspect one with a known working CPU is a good diagnostic step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When replacing this capacitor it is best to use a 100uf 25v capacitor. You should note that by the time Williams got to the WPC-95 system, any place where they used to use a 100uf 10v filter capacitor they now had a 100uf 25v capacitor instead. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:BSDcaprs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Failed C31 from a BSD CPU.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:FHcaprs.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Failed C31 from a Funhouse CPU.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Determining whether or not C31 has failed is a challenge without an ESR meter. A simple visual inspection will not indicate whether the part is good or bad. Here are two C31s, one from a Funhouse and one from a BSD. Both of these are bad. Both should have an ESR reading of less than 2 ohms and a capacitance reading, out of circuit, of 100uf if not slightly more. Both the boards these were installed in would boot successfully on the bench hooked up to a dedicated power supply. Without an ESR meter, one might think these capacitors were fine. In fact, if this was the only thing wrong in the machine on the 5v circuit, chances are the game would operate fine with these capacitors as-is. But if the game is resetting, it is probably best to replace C31. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The Absolute Last Resort ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Step 42: We really didn&#039;t want to get to this point!&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;There is a method of absolute last resort.&#039;&#039;&#039;  &lt;br /&gt;
This is absolutely, positively a hack. And yes, it can push some extra margin into the design, covering up other problems, which is why it is a hack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The LM323K draws a small current to operate, which it passes to ground. We can use that current to raise the voltage of the whole LM323K, pushing the output closer to 5V. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM323KHackComponentSide.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Ground Trace severed leading to C9.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Procedure:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Isolate the LM323K&#039;s metal case from board ground by cutting the ground traces that run left and right from the nut on the back of the board that bolts the LM323K to the board. The neater you make these cuts, the easier it to reverse this hack.&lt;br /&gt;
#Some versions of the Power/Driver board include a ground trace on the component side of the board that provides a ground to the tantalum capacitor at C9. This trace must be cut on the component side of the board. &lt;br /&gt;
#Add a 1/2W resistor in series, from the LM323K ground to the board&#039;s ground trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM323KHackSolderSide.jpg|thumb|200px|left|LM323K case isolated from ground, and a 25ohm resistor added. This raised the nominal voltage by .2VDC.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A 12 ohm resistor will nominally raise the LM323K voltage output by .1 VDC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A 24 ohm resistor will nominally raise the LM323K voltage output by .2 VDC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: The LM323K is designed to operate this way.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== The Conductive Grease Hack ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[What is a &amp;quot;Hack&amp;quot;?]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some techs will recommend the use of conductive grease to improve conductivity at a connector. While some techs will &amp;quot;swear &#039;&#039;&#039;by&#039;&#039;&#039; the stuff&amp;quot;, other techs will &amp;quot;swear &#039;&#039;&#039;at&#039;&#039;&#039; the stuff&amp;quot;, and as such, this is not considered a best practice. The grease can extend the life of new header pins, and protect against hostile environments that would cause corrosion. However, when used on header pins that are already damaged, grease can only slow further deterioration. Worse, the heat in the connector will turn the grease to gunk. If you find a flaky connector with gunk in it, you&#039;ve been &amp;quot;greased&amp;quot; and you will want to re-pin it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Damaged/burnt connectors should always be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Electrical_Tools replaced].  [http://http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01903128&amp;amp;type=prod Dow Corning #4] grease can&#039;t help them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the other hand [http://http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01903128&amp;amp;type=prod DC#4] Electrical Insulating Compound Grease does a superior job reducing friction and corrosion on contacts and that would be considered a net benefit to any game. JRR&#039;s shop and others have also found a decrease in the temperature of power contacts using [http://http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01903128&amp;amp;type=prod DC#4] along with reduced resistance which should increase the life of the connector. This product is also good to use on EM pins for the interconnect plugs/sockets as it reduces friction and improves conductivity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that [http://http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01903128&amp;amp;type=prod DC#4] is stable from -57C to 204C (-70F to 399F). If your game has contacts at the high end of those temperatures then certainly, the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic_smoke smoke] would be getting out...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If other products are used, investigate carefully to ensure they are a proper dielectric grease suitable for high temperature applications.  There is a time and place to use this type of product, mostly as a preventative measure on newly replaced contact surfaces.  Applying it after the plating has burned off is a questionable practice and no substitute for proper connector replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Check fuses F114 and F115 message===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CheckFusesF114andF115.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Check Fuses F114 and F115 Message]]&lt;br /&gt;
This message is sometimes displayed when the game boots and a game cannot be started. Most of the time, F114/F115 will be found to be just fine. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The game issues this message because it cannot read the switch matrix normally. The crafty designers at Williams inserted an “always closed“ switch into the matrix as switch 24. Switch 24 isn’t a switch at all, but instead provides the game software with a “known closed” switch matrix return. Switch 24 is actually a diode across column 2, row 4 of the switch matrix and is located on the coin door interface board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the WPC switch matrix circuitry on the MPU uses 12V to determine switch state, the game assumes that the 12VDC power has been interrupted. F114/F115 fuse the 12V generation circuit; F114 on the AC side of BR1; F115 on the DC side of BR1. Hence, the game assumes that one of these fuses is blown and the message is displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Diagnosing the problem&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start by checking DC voltage at TP3. You should see about 12VDC. If not, follow these steps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Actually check fuses F114 and F115 using the procedure [[General#Testing_fuses| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]. If a blown fuse is found, replace it. If F114 immediately blows again, then BR1 is probably shorted. Skip to the paragraph below to test the bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
#Check LED6. If not lit (indicating the absence of 18V at TP8), then suspect BR1 or the filter caps for BR1, C6 and C7. If BR1 had failed shorted or if C6 or C7 where shorted (rare) then you would expect to see F114 blown. BR1 can be tested using the procedure below.&lt;br /&gt;
#Check LED1. If not lit (indicating the absence of “digital” 12V at TP3, then test D1 and D2 (both 1N4004 diodes that can be tested with the game off or board removed using the standard &amp;quot;diode check&amp;quot; on your DMM). &lt;br /&gt;
#If D1/D2 test good, then check continuity from pin 2 of the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2 to J114, pin 5. This verifies the path to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
#Next, check continuity from pin 3 of the 7812 to J114, pin 2. This verifies the path through F115 to the 12V power header at J114.&lt;br /&gt;
#If this all checks out, yet 12VDC is still not at TP3, then suspect the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2. Q2 is in a TO-220 package (like a TIP-102) and has a small heat sink attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Alternate Problem Determination Method: Test Power Across the Driver Board&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC12VRegulatedCircuit.png|center|(The regulated 12VDC circuit, diagram by by Sascha Voksuil aka Zaza)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The diagram above shows the simple path for the 12VDC power regulation circuit. Power may be tested across the circuit, as follows.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on.&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your meter to DC volts. If your meter isn&#039;t an auto-ranging meter, expect to see less than 20VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to game ground, or tuck it under the backbox ground braid.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe TP8 with the red lead of your DMM. It should measure about 18VDC. If not, suspect F114.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the banded side of D1. It should measure about 18 minus .5 to .7 volts, (the typical voltage drop across this kind of diode), or about 17.4VDC. If not, suspect D1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the banded side of D2. It should measure about 17.4 minus .5 to .7 volts (again), or about 16.8VDC. If not, suspect D2.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the top leg of the 7812. It should measure about 16.8V. If not, suspect the trace between D2 and the 7812 or a fractured solder joint at the 7812.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the bottom leg of the 7812. It should measure about 12VDC since the job of this regulator is to produce 12VDC. If not, suspect the 7812 regulator.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the right side of fuse F115. It should measure about 12VDC. If not, suspect the trace between the lower leg of the 7812 and fuse F115. In particular, suspect that C2 has leaked and corroded the trace carrying the 12VDC. See: &amp;quot;Leaky Capacitor C2 corrodes trace&amp;quot;, below.&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe the left side of fuse F115. Again it should measure about 12VDC. If not, suspect F115 is blown or the fuse block has a poor mechanical connection to the fuse or to the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
#Finally, probe pin 2 of J114. It should read about 12VDC. If not, suspect the trace from fuse F115, the connection of the F115 fuse block to the PCB, or a fractured pin at J114.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only circuit path remaining to test is the path to the ground pin of J114 (pins 5 and 7) from the 7812. This is easily accomplished with power off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to continuity and &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between the tab of the 7812 to J114, pin 5 and 7. If no continuity, suspect a fractured solder joint at the center pin of the 7812, or corrosion under C2 that has compromised the trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Short on the MPU causing F115 to blow&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is one more way for the 12VDC power to be lost and for F115 to blow. A shorted IC on the MPU that uses 12VDC can cause F115 to blow. To help isolate the problem to the MPU, replace F115, disconnect power going to the MPU at J210, and turn power to the game on. If the fuse does not blow, the problem is almost definitely on the MPU board. Any of the LM339s (theoretically) or the ULN2803 (definitely) can fail and short 12V to ground, causing F115 to blow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Leaky Capacitor C2 corrodes trace&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCFailed12VRCircuit.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Filter capacitor C2 (removed), leaking it&#039;s corrosive electrolytic contents, eating through traces]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC12VFilterCapLeakDamage.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Filter capacitor C2 (removed), showing damage caused by a leaky cap.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Yet one more way for the 12VDC regulated power to be lost is shown in the picture at left. In the picture, the electrolytic cap at C2 has failed and leaked corrosive electrolytic contents onto the board. The lower trace from Q2 (7812 voltage regulator) to C2 (+ side), that goes on to connect to F115 on the solder side of the board, has been eaten away, no longer providing a path for the regulated 12VDC power. Corrective action here is the same as alkaline damage abatement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Shown on the right is another shot of the damage caused by a leaky cap at C2. This one resulted in reducing the 12V power to about half of spec.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC12VCorrosion.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Corroded parts in the 12V/Zero Cross circuitry]]&lt;br /&gt;
The corrosion resulting from a leaky cap at C2 can be quite extensive. Often, the parts immediately left of C2 are damaged and must be replaced. The part list is as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*R206 - 27K ohm&lt;br /&gt;
*R198 - 10K ohm&lt;br /&gt;
*R199 - 1K ohm&lt;br /&gt;
*C1 &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;- .001uf ceramic (or 1000pf, marked 102)&lt;br /&gt;
*R204 - 270 ohm&lt;br /&gt;
*C12 &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;- .001uf ceramic (or 1000pf, marked 102)&lt;br /&gt;
*R205 - 270 ohm&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If TP3 does, in fact, have 12VDC present, then we need to dig deeper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#First check for 12VDC on the CPU board to ensure that the 12V is getting to the board via the 2 (and possibly 4 if your game has a “Z-Connector”) connectors that carry the 12VDC. An easy place to measure 12VDC on the CPU is at pin 10 of the ULN2803 (U20). Pin 10 is on the bottom row of pins, furthest left. Note that this connection (and also the 12VDC connection to pin 3 of the LM339s) is not shown on the schematic.&lt;br /&gt;
#If the CPU is receiving 12VDC, and you still have the “Check fuses F114 and F115” message, then the problem lies within the CPUs switch matrix logic circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
#Prime candidates for CPU switch matrix failure are U20 (a ULN2803), the two LM339s at U18 and U19, the 74LS374 at U14, and the 74LS240 at U13. All of these ICs are in the “corrosion zone” caused by leaky alkaline batteries. If your CPU exhibits the “blue/green fuzzies”, address the alkaline damage first.&lt;br /&gt;
#Testing the 74LSXXX ICs is simple using the procedure [[General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]].&lt;br /&gt;
#If coil power, flasher power, or even lamp power was somehow shorted to the switch matrix, there is a near 100% probability that the ULN2803 at U20 has been damaged. There is no good way to test the ULN2803 other than using a logic probe with the game powered on. Both the input side and the output side of the ULN2803 should be toggling between logic 0 and logic 1. If not, socket and replace the ULN2803.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit]]&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Place your DMM into &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot;. &lt;br /&gt;
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the &amp;quot;oddball&amp;quot; lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn&#039;t oriented the same as the others (as with the &amp;quot;spade&amp;quot; type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the &amp;quot;wire lead&amp;quot; type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge&#039;s internal diodes).&lt;br /&gt;
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the &amp;quot;oddball&amp;quot; lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not &amp;quot;hard and fast&amp;quot;. For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; or a &amp;quot;short&amp;quot;. Note also that this test is not conducted &amp;quot;under load&amp;quot; and it is possible for the bridge to test &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Testing BR1 &amp;quot;InSitu&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible to test BR1 while the power/driver board is still installed in the game. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Thanks to PinSider &amp;quot;Zaza&amp;quot; for the procedure and animation&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
#Power the game off&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure fuse F114 is good&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove connector J101 on the right side of the power/driver board&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to &amp;quot;diode check&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Probe as indicated in the animated gif pictured below&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingBR1InSitu.gif|Testing BR1 &amp;quot;InSitu&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wpc-br.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The heat sink covering BR1 and BR2 on a WPC-board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Take special care when replacing a bridge rectifier.  It is easy to lift the traces of the plated through holes when removing these.  After removing the heat sink, cut the old bridge rectifier off of the board close to the top leaving as much of the lug as possible.  Then add a small amount of solder to the connection on the solder side to improve heat transfer.  Finally apply the iron to the solder side to heat the joint and remove the remaining lug with small pliers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When replacing the new bridge rectifier you should remove the old thermal compound and apply a new thin layer.  The old compound can be removed with a little rubbing alcohol.  Apply the thermal compound to the top of the bridge rectifiers and reattach the heat sink with the screws [[#Failed_Bridge_Rectifier | (see above)]].  It is much easier to replace the heat sink before resoldering the new bridge rectifier.  Make sure that the heatsink is sitting flush with the tops of the bridge rectifiers and that you leave about a 5/8&amp;quot; gap between the bridge rectifier and the board to improve air flow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Splitting the heat sink between BR1 and BR2 was at one time thought to improve reliability. This is no longer considered a best practice and is &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;not&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; recommended. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wps-diodes.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diodes replaced BR1 and BR2 on WPC-95 boards]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
In WPC-95 games, BR1 and BR2 were replaced by a series of diodes. D11-D14 replaced BR1. D7-D10 replaced BR2. These are much less prone to failure. Still, they do fail on occasion. If one or more fail, it&#039;s best to replace all four in the &amp;quot;gang&amp;quot;. These diodes were originally 6A2 diodes. Replace them with 6A4 diodes (6 amp 200V vs 6 amp 400V). See the &amp;quot;Check Fuses F106 and F101&amp;quot; section below for the equivalent WPC-95 message.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Check Fuses F115 and F116 Message===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Check F115 F116.JPG|thumb|300px|left|Check Fuses F115 and F116 Message]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Similar to the &amp;quot;Check Fuses F114 and F115&amp;quot; above, games like Demolition Man will display this message at power up if the trough optos are seen as closed (remember, the opto switch open/closed logic is inverted). Debug this issue by checking the 12v connectors at the lower left corner of the driver board and the connectors on the trough opto transmitter and receiver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC-95 Check Fuses F106 and F101 Message===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CheckFuses106And101.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Check Fuses F106 and F101 Message]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a WPC-95 game detects loss of 12VDC power by not seeing switch 24 as closed, &amp;quot;Check Fuses F106 and F101&amp;quot; will be displayed at power up. This could obviously mean that F101 and/or F106 are blown. It might also indicate failure of the LM7812 12VDC regulator at Q2 in which case LED102 will be on and LED100 will be off or, failure of one or more of the 6A2 diodes that rectify the AC power (D11-D14). In the latter case, both LED102 and LED100 will be off. Use these LED indicators, as well as testing for 18VDC at TP102 and 12VDC at TP100 to guide your repairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Line Voltage Detection - LED2 &amp;amp; LED3===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
LED2 and LED3 on the Power Driver Board are indicators for the line voltage detection circuit.  On on-board comparator circuit uses +5V and +18V to check the line voltage.  The comparator consists of a resistor voltage divider and an LM339 comparator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows how to interpret the LED states.  Note that other problems with the +18V or +5V supply could cause a high or low line voltage indication.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Line Voltage Indicator Chart&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!LED2&lt;br /&gt;
!LED3&lt;br /&gt;
!Voltage&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;On&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Off&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;OK&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Off&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Off&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;High&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;On&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;On&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Low&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Exploding or Damaged 15,000uf Capacitor at C11 (C10 on WPC-95)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A smoking, domed, or in the worst case exploded filter capacitor at C11 can result from cross connecting J124 and J128 on the power/driver board. Doing so creates a circuit that routes 70VDC coil power through C11 which is typically rated at 25VDC and is meant to filter the 20VDC flash lamp circuit. This is made possible since J124 and J128 are identically implemented. Both are 5 pins wide, both keyed at pin 4. This is possible on &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WhiteWater&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Dr. Who&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Bram Stokers Dracula&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; at least, and may also be possible on other games. It is possible on any WPC or WPC-S game that uses J124, whether or not J128 is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:J106ConnectedToJ132BlowsC11.jpg|thumb|left|200px| J106 flash lamp power connector with red/white wire incorrectly connected to J132 on a Gilligan&#039;s Island, perhaps by Gilligan himself. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of FB &amp;quot;Pinball Repair Group II&amp;quot; member Criss King&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
Another very effective way to blow C11 is to connect the flash lamp power connector at J106 to high power coil grounding circuits at J132. The connectors are the same width and keyed identically. This connects 72VDC coil power to the 20VDC flash lamp power which is filtered by C11, a 15,000uf/25V capacitor, with the same results as mentioned above.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other possible causes for a damaged C11 are a shorted flipper coil diode, a shorted drive transistor on the FlipTronics board, or installing backbox ribbon connectors incorrectly (bottom female housing row to top male header row).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:J124J128ErrorBlockingDiode.jpg|thumb|left|200px| A 1N4004 blocking diode installed in series with R224. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
An effective method of preventing damage to C11 in the event that one of the conditions above is met, is to install a blocking diode in series with the large sand resistor at R224. Install a 1N4004 (for example) with the banded side facing the PCB as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===WPC and WPC-S Games With No Solenoid, Flasher or Feature Lamps, A Blanking Signal Issue===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SeveredBlankingSignal.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The trace emanating to the right from pin 1 in this picture has been severed by corrosion as it passes between pins 19 and 20.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The blanking signal from the MPU is connected to pin 1 of each of the 74LS374 buffers (U1 thru U5 and U18) that drive general illumination, flash lamps, coils, and feature lamps. Normally, this signal is pulled low by the MPU board, indicating that no faults have been detected and the system is running as expected. Without a low blanking signal, none of the game features implemented by the driver board will be enabled.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As these games begin to age, the 12V filter cap located at C2 begins to leak it&#039;s corrosive contents onto the PCB. As noted in the section titled &amp;quot;[https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message Check Fuses F114 and F115 Message]&amp;quot;, the corrosion often damages adjacent parts and sometimes invades the solder mask to sever critical signals, like the blanking signal or even data signals. If continuity can not be &amp;quot;buzzed&amp;quot; between the blanking and data pins of U1 and U2, and C2 has been leaking, then there is a good chance that the signal trace has been severed under or around U1. Corrosion seems to accumulate under the chip and between the legs frequently. To address this issue, cleanly remove the chip, clean up the corrosion, rebuild traces as necessary, install a socket, and replace the 74LS374 if necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid, Flasher, and Motor problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Flashers, solenoids, and motors in WPC games are turned on via transistors on the driver board and in some games, transistors on the [[Williams_WPC#Auxiliary_8-Driver_Board_.28A-16100.29| Auxiliary 8 Driver Board]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before proceeding to diagnose solenoid or flasher problems, see this section: [[General#How_coils.2C_flashers.2C_and_motors_are_turned_on| How Coils, Flashers, and Motors are Turned On]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The general logic for providing a path to ground for a coil, solenoid, flasher or motor (subsequently, we&#039;ll refer to coils only, but this is true for coils, flashers, and motors) via the driver board is as follows. Operation of the [[Williams_WPC#Auxiliary_8-Driver_Board_.28A-16100.29| Auxiliary 8 Driver Board]] is similar but control is accomplished via the long ribbon cable from the MPU to the 8-Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#The MPU places the appropriate bit pattern on the data bus to control a &amp;quot;bank&amp;quot; of 8 transistor circuits. The data bus is extended to the power/driver board via the interboard ribbon cable.&lt;br /&gt;
#The MPU/ASIC &amp;quot;clocks&amp;quot; the appropriate [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/90/375622_DS.pdf 74LS374], an &amp;quot;octal latch&amp;quot; on the power/driver board, to latch data on the data bus into the 74LS374.&lt;br /&gt;
#The outputs of the 74LS374 turn on a 2N5401 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The output of the 2N5401 turns on a TIP-102 transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The TIP-102 transistor either provides the path to ground for the waiting coil power or, for higher powered coils, turns on a TIP-36c transistor which provides the path to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reason that (up to) 3 transistors are used in the circuit is to &amp;quot;amplify&amp;quot; the power. A 2N5401 transistor can handle a comparatively small amount of current. A TIP-102 transistor can handle a much greater current load. The TIP-36c in 8 of the WPC power/driver board circuits can handle an even greater current load.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; With the exception of flipper coils and coils driven through the &amp;quot;special solenoid&amp;quot; drivers, diodes used to [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snubber snub] the reverse current caused by the collapse of the coil&#039;s electromagnetic field, are located on the driver board. High power and low power playfield and backbox coils (solenoids 1 through 16) should not have a diode on them. This convention eases the tech&#039;s job in that he/she doesn&#039;t need to be careful with diode orientation on the coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; Coils driven by a Flash Lamp drive (solenoids 17 through 20) or by special solenoid drives (solenoids 21 through 28) require a &amp;quot;tie back diode&amp;quot; connection. When a flash lamp drive is used, a diode must be added to the circuitry, as was done with the Terminator 2 single drop target for example, as the power/driver board doesn&#039;t include this diode. When a special solenoid drive is used, a connection from the coil, back to the appropriate pin on the driver board which leads to the on-board tie back diode, must be made. See the section [[#Blown / Failing Q20 Transistor on the Driver Board and the Tieback Diode|Blown / Failing Q20 Transistor on the Driver Board and the Tieback Diode]] below for more information&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Transistor &amp;quot;Quick Check&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:QuickTransistorCheck.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing TIP-102s quickly on a WPC power/driver board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A quick check of the TIP-102s on the driver board can save time. Set your DMM to &amp;quot;continuity check&amp;quot;. Place the black lead of your DMM on board ground. Touch the tab of each TIP-102. If the meter indicates continuity, then that TIP-102 is shorted. This quick test works only with TIP-102s and not with TIP-107 or TIP-36c transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====&amp;quot;Help&amp;quot; Info Provided by WPC Games====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCHelpSequence.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC games provide help during coil test.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During coil test, pressing the credit button provides a bit of information helpful in debugging your game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With coil test &amp;quot;stopped&amp;quot;, pressing the credit button sequences through the following information.&lt;br /&gt;
*Solenoid power and ground (drive) wire colors&lt;br /&gt;
*Solenoid power and ground (drive) connections&lt;br /&gt;
*The fuse that protects the circuit&lt;br /&gt;
*The sequence of cascading transistors that provide a path to ground for the solenoid. In the picture at left, Q82 (TIP-36), Q81 (TIP-102), and Q71 (2N5401) provide the path to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Failed TIP-36c====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSolenoidGroundTraceBlownAndRepairedAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A blown trace (inside the yellow circle) caused by a shorted TIP-36c transistor. The damage has been nicely repaired with a solid core jumper, soldered to through hole components versus &amp;quot;tack soldered&amp;quot; to the trace, making a stronger solder joint. Note: solder flux visible on replaced TIP-102 and TIP-36c later removed with isopropyl alcohol.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When replacing shorted transistors, examine the traces connected to the transistor for further damage. In the picture at left, a shorted TIP-36c was replaced. During test, the first time the TIP-36c was called upon to provide a path to ground for the associated coil, the TIP-36c failed shorted again. This was caused by the blown trace.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Blown / Failing Q20 Transistor on the Driver Board and the Tieback Diode====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Terminator2DiodeTiebackWireAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The violet/orange &amp;quot;diode tieback&amp;quot; wire, attached to the power side of the drop target reset coil in Terminator 2. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Terminator2-Q20ViolentExposionCropped.jpg |200px|thumb|right|Q20, with a major malfunction, due to the diode tieback wire connection being missing. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Several games (Star Trek the Next Generation, Funhouse, Terminator 2, Indiana Jones, and The Addams Family to name a few), employ the use of a &amp;quot;diode tieback&amp;quot; system on a specific coil or motor. A diode tieback is the use of a clamping diode between the drive transistor ground and the voltage source to accommodate the reverse voltage spike induced when a coil&#039;s magnetic field collapses. While Williams moved most clamping diodes to the power/driver board, the flashlamp circuits (drives 17 through 20) don&#039;t include a clamping diode. Flash lamps don&#039;t create the same reverse voltage spike and hence, don&#039;t require a clamping diode. A tieback diode must be added to the game wiring when one of these flashlamp drives are used to turn on a coil or a motor. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;Special Solenoid&amp;quot; drive circuits (drives 21 through 28) do include a clamping diode but that diode isn&#039;t connected to a voltage source. Presumably, Williams did this to provide flexibility in voltage levels used to drive a special solenoid. When one of the special solenoid drives is used to drive a coil or motor, a connection must be made from the power side of the coil or motor back to the associated power/driver board clamping diode via the appropriate header pin at connectors J122 through J126.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the tieback diode connection is lost, the associated drive transistor on the driver board (as pictured on the right) &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WILL&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; be damaged. Also, the associated coil is likely to be held on continuously and melt. In the example pictured at left from a Terminator 2, the diode tieback wire is the thin violet/orange wire.  It connects from the coil power side on the drop target assembly coil lug to J122 pin 9 on the driver board and then to clamping diode D5. If the solder connection at the coil lug is solid, suspect the wire connection at the J122 IDC connector. Repinning this connection with a good quality crimp-on Trifurcon pin is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Addams Family&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; uses Q20 for the &amp;quot;Swamp Release&amp;quot; coil, Q22 for the &amp;quot;Bookcase Motor&amp;quot;, Q24 for the &amp;quot;Thing Eject Hole&amp;quot;, and Q26 for the &amp;quot;Thing Motor&amp;quot;, all requiring a tieback diode.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Star Trek: the Next Generation&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; drives the subway diverters via the 8-Driver board in the upper right side of the head. These also require a tieback diode as discussed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation#Diode_.22Tie_Back.22_missing_causes_8-Driver_Board_transistor_to_fail here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coil Locks On====&lt;br /&gt;
This is the most prevalent problem observed (versus coil not firing). When a coil locks on, this means that the power that is present at the coil at all times has found a path to ground. Normally, a path to ground is provided via a controlled transistor set on the driver board. In rare cases a frayed wire or a wire with an insulation gap/failure will touch ground and the coil will lock on. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most of the time, the drive transistor on the driver board has shorted internally and is acting as if it&#039;s been turned on. Should this be the case, the following steps will isolate the problem transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Use the &amp;quot;Solenoid/Flasher Table&amp;quot; at the front of the game manual to identify the likely failed transistor(s). &lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the driver board from the game.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test the drive transistor (TIP-102 or TIP-36c).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing a TIP-102 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
#Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
#A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing a TIP-36c transistor&lt;br /&gt;
#Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
#A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the drive transistor tests failed, remove the part using this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Desoldering_Printed_Circuit_Board_Through_Hole_Components procedure] being very careful with the delicate traces and through holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most of the time, the last transistor in the cascading transistor chain is the only one to have failed. But, it&#039;s important to test the upstream transistors before placing the board back into service. If a TIP-102 has been found to have failed, test the upstream associated 2N5401 predriver. If a TIP-36c has been found to have failed, test the upstream associated TIP-102 and 2N5401 predrivers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Terminator2-Q20ViolentExposionCropped.jpg |200px|thumb|left|A failure involving other parts connected to the failed transistor &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Sometimes, additional parts connected to the failed transistor will have been damaged too, as pictured at left. It then becomes necessary to replace those parts, remove carbon (it&#039;s a conductor) and to rebuild burned traces as necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When a coil has locked on for an extended period of time, the coil wire insulation heats up, melts, and begins to short together. Left locked on for long enough, the coil becomes a dead short. It&#039;s important to test the resistance of the failed coil to ensure that it hasn&#039;t been damaged. A resistance measurement less than 2 ohms certainly means that the coil is damaged, but comparing the coil&#039;s resistance to other known good coils is the best and easiest test. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WARNING:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; If the coil has become a dead short and remains in circuit, and the game is powered on, the associated driver transistor WILL be damaged.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coil Fails to Work====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before proceeding, see this section: [[General#How_coils.2C_flashers.2C_and_motors_are_turned_on| How Coils, Flashers, and Motors are Turned On]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Possible causes for coils failing to fire include:&lt;br /&gt;
*The switch associated with the coil is not being sensed by the MPU, and hence the MPU doesn&#039;t command the coil to fire.&lt;br /&gt;
*The coil doesn&#039;t have power&lt;br /&gt;
*One/both of the coil wires are not solidly soldered to the solder lug&lt;br /&gt;
*The coil winding is open&lt;br /&gt;
*The coil power is not finding a path to ground&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Associated Switch Failure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the MPU isn&#039;t commanding the coil to fire, obviously it won&#039;t. For instance, if a slingshot switch isn&#039;t being &amp;quot;made&amp;quot; or some other switch matrix problem prevents proper switch sensing, then the MPU won&#039;t command the slingshot coil to fire. This type of failure is easy to isolate merely by placing the game in switch test and closing the switch. Also, if during game play, points are scored when the switch closes, clearly the switch is being made. If a coil fires in solenoid test but not in game play, then the root cause is a switch problem versus a coil problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;No Power to the Coil, Coil Wire not Solidly Soldered, or Coil Winding Open&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing for power to the coil is easy.&lt;br /&gt;
*Set the DMM to DC volts. If not an auto-ranging meter, expect less than 200VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn the game on.&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on a convenient game ground like the ground braid or side rail.&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the coil lug with the &amp;quot;fat&amp;quot; wire(s). The fat wire carries power to the coil.&lt;br /&gt;
*The appropriate voltage should be read (75VDC for coils, 20VDC for flashers)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the appropriate voltage is not seen, there are two primary reasons. Either the power circuit fuse has blown or there is a discontinuity in the power wiring from the driver board to the coil. Turn the game off. Remove the associated fuse and &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; it with a DMM set to continuity test. While the fuse is out of the board, make sure it&#039;s rated at the proper amperage. Generally, WPC coil and flasher circuits are fused with a 3ASB fuse. If the fuses tests good, the next test is to ensure continuity from that fuse to the coil power lug. With the DMM still set to continuity, &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between the fuse and the coil power lug. If continuity isn&#039;t proven, the task is then to find the break in continuity between the driver board connector and the coil power lug. Remember that power is &amp;quot;daisy chained&amp;quot; through several coils in the game. That is why some coils will appear to have two power wires soldered to one lug.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the appropriate voltage is seen, then test for a break in the coil windings. With the game still powered on...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the other coil lug.&lt;br /&gt;
*Again, the appropriate voltage should be seen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the appropriate voltage is not seen, then either the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is not solidly soldered to the coil&#039;s solder tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Coil Power is Not Finding a Path to Ground&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The smaller wire attached to one of the coil lugs connects the coil to the driver board. The driver board has a drive transistor allocated for each coil in the game. The smaller wire must have a solid connection back to the driver board. There are two ways to test the path to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Use a DMM set to continuity to &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection of the smaller wire between the coil and the female connector on the driver board. Ensure that the connection of the wire at the IDC connector is solid. If the coil is driven by a TIP-102 transistor, buzzing between the smaller wire on the coil and the transistor tab should show continuity.&lt;br /&gt;
#With the game powered on, and a short length of wire stripped on both ends, touch one end of the wire to the ground braid in the head. Touch the other end of the wire BRIEFLY to the tab of the associated TIP-102. If the coil pulls in, then the path to ground has been proven and the failure is likely the TIP-102 itself. NOTE: This test can be performed ONLY when a TIP-102 is the drive transistor. TIP-36c transistors are configured differently. The tab of a TIP-36c is not connected in the same way internally.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the wiring and connector have been verified to be in order, the next step is to test the associated drive transistor. Unlike when a coil locks on and the driver transistor has shorted on, in this case the drive transistor may have failed &amp;quot;open&amp;quot;. Test the transistor using the same procedure outlined in the prior section. Replace as necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the drive transistor tests failed, remove the part using this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Desoldering_Printed_Circuit_Board_Through_Hole_Components procedure] being very careful with the delicate traces and through holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Low Coil Voltage====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-C8.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C8, located near the 50VDC test point, can cause reduced coil power.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Coil power for WPC games is nominally about 70VDC. Very little can reduce this voltage. If the game is delivering significantly less than 70VDC, suspect BR3. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s also possible for C8 to cause reduced voltage. C8 is a 100uf/150V (sometimes installed as 100uf/100V) capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lamps (or globes for those of you in the UK) fall into two categories. &amp;quot;General Illumination&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Controlled Lamps&amp;quot;. Your game probably has other lamps which are actually &amp;quot;flashers&amp;quot; that require an 89 or 906 bulb. Flashers are covered elsewhere in this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General illumination lamps (GI) provide the ambient lighting for the playfield, backbox, and coin door. These lamps are lit most of the time. The only &amp;quot;controllable&amp;quot; aspect of these lamps is their brightness, which of course, includes off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Controlled lamps (sometimes called &amp;quot;feature lamps&amp;quot;) are under complete CPU control via the 8-by-8 lamp matrix. These lamps illuminate the various &amp;quot;features&amp;quot; of the game such as mode inserts, pop bumper lamps, inlane/outlane insert lamps, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Lamp Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|200px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
WPC and WPC-95 systems employed &amp;quot;lamp boards&amp;quot; to ease the manufacturing process. These lamp board PCBs used &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; sockets, each with a 555 lamp. Over time, the pads on these sockets develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot; which sometimes results in a poor connection to the twist in socket. This can be easily corrected by removing the lamp board from the game and reflowing the solder on the pads.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another problem with lamp boards is the header connections. The solder joints at the connection pins often fracture due to connector insertion pressure, heat, fatigue, etc, and due to being a single sided PCB. The fix for this is again to reflow the solder around the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FracturedSolderJointLampBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Fractured solder joints on this lamp socket caused intermittent operation.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One of the less reliable designs Williams used was to &amp;quot;cantilever&amp;quot; lamp sockets over the end of lamp boards. This was done on a great many games such as Twilight Zone, Judge Dredd, etc. The repeated pressure needed to insert a new lamp into the socket causes the solder to fracture. This can be corrected easily by simply reflowing the solder at the joint.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
However in some instances, the socket has become damaged beyond the simple repair of just soldering the legs to the lamp board.  Replacement sockets are available from most pinball parts vendors.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If after repairing the lamp board divots, reflowing the header connectors, the lamp socket is still completely intact, (the contacts do break off of the socket sometimes), and the bulb is good, suspect that the diode associated with the particular lamp may be bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Illumination Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Background&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCGIConnectors.jpg|thumb|200px|left|WPC/WPC-S General Illumination Connectors J119 (cabinet), J120 and J121 (repinned)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC power/driver board provides 5 GI circuits under CPU &amp;quot;brightness control&amp;quot;. The WPC-95 power/driver board provides 3 GI circuits under CPU &amp;quot;brightness&amp;quot; control and 2 circuits that are always powered. Those two circuits are always connected to the backbox lamps.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
GI power is provided by the transformer in the form of 6.3VAC at power/driver board connector J115. Although there are five pairs of wires, they are all connected together at the transformer. One side of the AC GI circuit on the power/driver board is fused by F106 through F110 which are all 5ASB fuses. This side runs to the GI lamps, and carries 6.3VAC to the backbox, playfield, and coin door via power driver board connectors J120, J121, and J119 respectively. J119 is a 3-pin header that is always connected to the coin door lamps. J120 and J121 are electrically and physically identical (keyed at pin 4) and therefore can be connected to either the female playfield GI connector or the female backbox GI connector without care. The other side of the GI AC feed is connected to ground. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The GI power is controlled by a triac in the return line from the playfield. When these triacs are off, no current passes and  the lamps are off. When the triac is turned on, the GI lamps glow. The triac is a slightly special part - it must be a &amp;quot;four sector&amp;quot; triac. This means that it can switch both positive and negative sides of the AC cycle with only a positive signal.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each triac is switched on/off by a 2N5401 transistor which is controlled by U1, a 74LS374, an octal D-Type Flip-Flop with three state outputs (a fancy way of saying that the device is an 8-bit data buffer). &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
U1 is &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot; by the ASIC via the /TRIAC signal. If you have AC power present at J115, and no GI at all, it&#039;s possible that the /TRIAC signal is not getting through to U1. A logic probe applied to pin 11 of U1 will prove that the signal is getting through. If the signal is not present, try (after turning the power OFF)...&lt;br /&gt;
*Pressing firmly on the MPU ASIC to &amp;quot;reseat&amp;quot; it. &lt;br /&gt;
*&amp;quot;Reseating&amp;quot; the ribbon cable between the MPU and the Power/Driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use your logic probe to track the signal from pin 66 of the ASIC, across the MPU to the MPU connector, across the ribbon cable, then across the Power/Driver board to U1 pin 11.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU can dim the GI by switching on the GI for only parts of the AC waveform. To do this, the CPU uses a zero crossing signal on the driver board keyed from the AC that feeds the 5V circuit, diodes D3 and D38, and the LM339 at U6. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCJ115.jpg|thumb|200px|left|WPC General Illumination Connector J115 (AC power in). Note wire colors, beginning on the bottom with a yellow/white, then three (looped) yellow, then three (looped) yellow/white.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wire colors to J115 during the early WPC games were always yellow (AC) and yellow-white (AC return) as pictured at left. Pin 1 of J115 provides the &amp;quot;ground reference&amp;quot;. Later WPC games used different wire colors at J115 and instead of &amp;quot;looping&amp;quot; power through the connector at J115, connected two wires to the same pin at the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The colored wire connections for this era of WPC game are yel-wht connected to pin 1, yellow connected to pins 2-6, yel-wht connected to pins 7,8, 10, 11, &amp;amp; 12.  Pin 9 is the key. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
J119 is always keyed at pin 2, with a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;white-&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; wire at pin 1 and a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; wire at pin 3&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
J120 and J121 are 11 pin connectors. Wire color/positions (when used) are identical for all WPC games and are shown in the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Wire color at J120/J121&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Key&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Common GI Problem Causes&#039;&#039;&#039; (listed by probability/ease of testing and correction)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;GI Bulbs Not Lighting&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let&#039;s start by determining if the problem is &amp;quot;off board&amp;quot;, i.e. not on your power/driver board, or &amp;quot;on board&amp;quot;. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Take note of the wire color of the GI string that is not working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an &amp;quot;auto-ranging&amp;quot; model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on.&lt;br /&gt;
#Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector position with the same wire color as noted earlier. Make sure you make contact with the conductor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector with the white wire that has the same color &amp;quot;tracer&amp;quot; as the color noted earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
#You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.&lt;br /&gt;
#If there is voltage at the connector, then the problem is &amp;quot;off board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
#If there is no voltage at the connector, then the problem is &amp;quot;on board&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Off board GI problems&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;All lamps blown.&#039;&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t laugh. Just for giggles, put a known working lamp into one of the lamp sockets of the suspected GI string. I&#039;ve seen it more than once. Usually the result of operators never changing a bulb, or somehow connecting higher voltage to the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;Open&amp;quot; in GI wiring.&#039;&#039;&#039; The GI wires leading from J120/J121 may be cut/broken between the connector and the GI lamp sockets. Remove both of the female connectors at J120/J121. Use your DMM to check continuity between the lamp socket and the appropriate wire/pin at J120/J121.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;On board GI problems&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#&#039;&#039;&#039;Blown fuses.&#039;&#039;&#039; This is also the easiest problem to fix. Check each GI fuse following this [[General#Testing_fuses| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]. Don&#039;t trust your eyes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol start=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Loss of &amp;quot;Cross Board&amp;quot; Connectivity.&#039;&#039;&#039; This problem is generally caused by burned header pins, traces, or in some cases, poor prior repairs. Use the following table to check cross board connectivity with J120/J121 as your target. Buzz between the pins/parts shown in the table or use the diagrams below.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;GI Connector/pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Connects to&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;...and to fuse&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;associated circuit wire color&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q18 tab&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;|| &amp;amp;nbsp;|| &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q10 tab&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q14 tab&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-4&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Key pin&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;|| &amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q16 tab&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q12 tab&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;|| &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-7&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;J115-3&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;F110&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-8&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;J115-4&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;F109&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-9&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;J115-6&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;F108&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;J115-5&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;F107&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J120-11&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;J115-2&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;F106&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;GI Connector/pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Connects to&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;associated circuit wire color&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-7&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q10 pin 1&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-8&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q18 pin 1&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-9&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Key pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q16 pin 1&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-11&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q14 pin 1&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;White-&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;Yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (yellow)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;J115-12&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Triac Q12 pin 1&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=140px heights=180px perrow=5 caption=&amp;quot;WPC-089 Power/Driver Board GI Buzz Diagrams provided by Sascha Voskuil&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GIBuzzBrown.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GIBuzzOrange.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GIBuzzYellow.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Yellow GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GIBuzzGreen.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GIBuzzPurple.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Click on the thumbnails above for the full sized GI buzz image&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The clickable images above, in an animated gif...&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AnimatedGIConnections.gif|center|An animated diagram of WPC-089 GI connections]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:J120-J121SolderPads.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Critical PCB traces for the brown and orange GI circuits that are often compromised with amateurish attempts to replace J120.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Regarding poor prior rework, sometimes when J120 is replaced, the through holes at pins 7 and/or 8, are pulled causing a loss of connectivity from the board front to the board rear. This will prevent the brown and/or orange color GI circuit from working properly. Additionally, the through hole at J121, pin 6, that routes power to the 3-pin connector at J119, if pulled, will cause the cabinet GI (violet) to not light (coin door lights).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Burned connectors.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Over long periods of time, both the male and female GI connectors at J115, J120, and J121 often burn.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This was especially prevalent in early WPC games like Terminator 2.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WMS WPC Burnt GI Typical.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Typical burned connector on the output (female) side of the backbox GI on the driver board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurnedJ120-121.jpg|thumb|200px|right|These female housings for J120/121 are burned so much that they are &amp;quot;welded&amp;quot; to the male headers.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurnedJ120-121Rwmoved.jpg|thumb|200px|left|The connectors after removal. Get your marshmallows ready.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Numerous &amp;quot;hacks&amp;quot; have been employed over the years by well meaning repairmen but the only real way to fix burned connectors is to replace both the male header pins and the female housings/pins. &amp;quot;Trifurcon&amp;quot; phosphor-bronze crimp-on pins are recommended to provide a better connection at the female connector. Note that these must be phosphor-bronze (7A rating, as original). Don&#039;t buy them unless the supplier calls that out as the brass version looks the same but is only rated at 5A. If you replace burned female connectors, the male connectors are probably burned too and should be replaced. The damaged surface of the male pins will generate heat, and cause early failure of the replacement connector. Plus, the GI will be dimmer than it should be. J115 is a special case. The black Panduit connector that Williams used on many machines is far superior to any crimp pin, with a 12A rating (compared to 7A for phosphor-bronze Trifurcon pins). These, however, can be hard to find. Fortunately, they rarely burn and therefore rarely require service. Another alternative for high current connections is to use Molex MarKK series contacts (Molex part number 45570-3050) along with Molex 41695 series plugs. Although they cost more than the Trifurcon style contacts, these contacts are rated for a current load up to 13 amps.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;WPC-089 Power/Driver Board J120/J121 connector repair parts list...&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;Qty&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Part&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Product ID&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;11 pin .156 male header (cut to size) || &amp;amp;nbsp;26-48-1245&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Connector, .156 Plug, 11 pin (Molex 41695 series) || &amp;amp;nbsp;09-50-8111&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;.156 Trifurcon crimp contacts for the larger gauge wires || &amp;amp;nbsp;08-52-0113&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;.156 Trifurcon crimp contacts for the smaller gauge wires&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;amp;nbsp;08-52-0125&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;quot;Keying Pins&amp;quot; for Molex 41695 series plugs || &amp;amp;nbsp;15-04-0297&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Crimp tool || &amp;amp;nbsp;1028-CT (or equivalent)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
Note: Product IDs shown above can be found at http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-80.asp. Other vendors may carry these same parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Burned AC power input connector.&#039;&#039;&#039; There is also a 9-pin (3x3) connector between the transformer secondary and J115. This connector/pins sometimes burn and may require replacement. Check to ensure that AC power is being delivered to the power/driver board at J115.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCGICabinetConnection.jpg|thumb|200px|left|WPC General Illumination power connection between the transformer secondary and J115 (AC power in). This picture is from a Twilight Zone, which used the newer, multicolored wires between this connector and J115 on the power/driver board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an &amp;quot;auto-ranging&amp;quot; model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn the game on.&lt;br /&gt;
*Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 3.&lt;br /&gt;
*Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 11.&lt;br /&gt;
*You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.&lt;br /&gt;
*If no voltage is present, examine the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115, pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Burned traces.&#039;&#039;&#039; Usually, this is a secondary problem created after the connectors burn. Visual inspection of the traces might uncover the problem, but &amp;quot;buzzing&amp;quot; them for continuity is the best practice.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Failed 2N5401.&#039;&#039;&#039; These don&#039;t fail very often, but are easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_&amp;quot;stitch&amp;quot;,_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]].&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Failed resistors.&#039;&#039;&#039; Again, these don&#039;t fail very often but are easy to test with your DMM. Keep in mind that &amp;quot;in-circuit&amp;quot; measurements may not be reliable.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Failed 74LS374.&#039;&#039;&#039; This is rare too but easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_&amp;quot;stitch&amp;quot;,_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit | &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]. You can also test the outputs of the LS374 by probing pins 2, 5, 6, 16 and 19 with your logic probe. At full GI brightness (8), these pins should test as solid &amp;quot;low&amp;quot;. At the dimmest GI brightness (1), the above referenced pins should all be pulsing &amp;quot;high&amp;quot;. Additionally, pin 1 of the LS374 should always test low and pin 11 should always be pulsing &amp;quot;high&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Failed Triac.&#039;&#039;&#039; These rarely fail. But, if you&#039;ve gotten to this step in the procedure, it&#039;s time to replace the Triac. Remember, you need a 4-sector triac.&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As these boards age it is easy to pull out the little copper hole liners that connect traces from one side of the board to the other. If you install new connector pins, be sure to check continuity from the new pins onto the board somewhere. This only takes a couple minutes and can save you a lot of time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====GI Lamps Not Dimming=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC089BlankingTraces.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Small traces leading from the through holes of BR2&#039;s AC solder pads (pads circled) can be easily damaged, causing GI lamps to not dim. On this board revision, the upper/right through-hole has a small trace on the solder side of the board that connects to the &amp;quot;via&amp;quot; visible to the left of the through-hole. These traces lead to vias which can be seen just SouthWest of R194.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The primary cause of GI lamps failing to dim is broken traces at BR2, usually caused when BR2 was replaced. These traces lead to D3 and D38. Both of these traces must be intact for dimming to work as they supply the power to generate the signal to the Zero Cross circuit (ZC) which is key to dimming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before you go too far diagnosing the hardware, if your WPC game will not dim the general illumination, make sure that &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Standard Adjustment #25, &amp;quot;Allow Dim Illum.&amp;quot;,&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; is set to &amp;quot;YES&amp;quot;. If set to &amp;quot;NO&amp;quot;, then the GI will never dim, even during General Illumination test. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General dimming &amp;quot;theory of operation&amp;quot;...&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The driver board generates the ZC signal with the BR2, D3/D38 and U6 circuitry (different resistors).&lt;br /&gt;
*The ZC signal is connected to the ASIC (across the driver board, the ribbon, and then across the MPU).&lt;br /&gt;
*The ASIC uses the ZC signal to determine when to send the /TRIAC signal to U1 pin 11 (an 74LS374 buffer IC) as it simultaneously presents GI string enable data on the data bus.&lt;br /&gt;
*U1 latches GI string enable data from the MPU&#039;s data bus.&lt;br /&gt;
*The output of U1 forms signals T0 thru T4, which enable the TRIAC circuitry.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ZC_broken.jpg|thumb|200px|left|This is the ZC signal from a Doctor Who with a broken trace between the two 270 ohm resistors after D3. Dimming did not work in this example.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ZC_ok.jpg|thumb|200px|right|This is the ZC signal from a properly working Twilight Zone with General Illumination dimming working correctly.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible that D3, D38 (1N4004 diodes) or the LM339 at U6 have failed. If the ZC test point on the power/driver board is not strobing (which can be seen with a logic probe), something upstream of the test point has failed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
U6 is an LM339 comparator. The resistors around it (R16 and R17, both 230 ohm 1/4 watt) help generate the correct ZC signal. If a resistor is burned or out of spec, or if a trace is broken in the circuit (there are several &amp;quot;vias&amp;quot;), then ZC may still strobe but in an incorrect way which the ASIC doesn&#039;t recognize as the zero cross signal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The ZC may be strobing, yet the GI still won&#039;t dim. Use a logic probe to test both sides of diodes D3 and D38 as it is necessary for both the positive going and the negative going portions of the AC sine wave to be detected. If the traces buzz out back to BR2, then suspect one side of BR2 being open. Incredibly, it is possible for the game to work correctly in all regards other than GI dimming with half of the bridge open. Odd...but it happens.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-95 General Illumination Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95GIToast.jpg|thumb|200px|left|The GI section of a WPC-95 driver board with 6A2 diodes installed. Note the significant burn around the diodes as well as the melted connectors and burned pins.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The General Illumination circuit for WPC-95 games is very similar to WPC games. When the WPC-95 system was implemented, Williams reduced the number of &amp;quot;dimmable&amp;quot; GI circuits from 5 to 3, with 2 of the circuits being lit at all times. Within the two &amp;quot;always on&amp;quot; GI circuits, Williams placed 8 large 6A2 diodes, to create a voltage drop in the circuit which would dim the lamps slightly and presumably lengthen lamp life. However, these big 6A2 diodes create a great deal of heat. Without a heat-sink like those used on the TRIACs, the high heat they produce causes the printed circuit board and traces to burn. Later versions of the WPC-95 driver board replaced these 6A2 diodes with zero ohm jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95GIJumpers.jpg|thumb|200px|left|The back side of a WPC-95 driver board with jumpers installed across the GI circuit.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
You can (and probably should) remove the 6A2 diodes, and either replace them with zero ohm jumpers, or, more easily, implement the solution pictured at left. This solution bypasses the diodes completely, by installing the following jumpers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*J103 pin 11 jumped to J105 pin 5&lt;br /&gt;
*J103 pin 12 jumped to J105 pin 6&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=160px heights=280px perrow=5 caption=&amp;quot;WPC-95 Power/Driver Board GI Buzz Diagrams provided by Sascha Voskuil&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wpc95PinWikiGI-String1-Brown.png|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;Brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wpc95PinWikiGI-String2-Orange.png|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;Orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wpc95PinWikiGIString3-Yellow.png|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Yellow GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wpc95PinWikiGI-String4-Green.png|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;Green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Wpc95PinWikiGI-String5-Purple.png|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;Violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; GI String&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Click on the thumbnails above for the full sized GI buzz image&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The clickable images above, in an animated gif...&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wpc95PinWikiGI-1-5.gif|center|An animated diagram of WPC-95 GI connections]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Twist Socket Lamp Not Lighting =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:wpc-lamp-board-twist-sockets.jpg|thumb|right|300px|A lamp board with twist sockets found in Terminator 2]]&lt;br /&gt;
Two things that can fail on lamp boards are individual lamp circuit diodes or the solder pads can develop &amp;quot;divots&amp;quot;, where the twist sockets make physical contact with the board.  To overcome the divots, simply add a little solder, and carefully reflow the solder pads. Make certain not to apply too much heat...just enough to evenly flow the solder.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With Fire!, a system 11 game, Williams started using lamp boards with .156&amp;quot; header connections for the lamp column and row lines.  This allowed for easy removal and service of the lamp boards. However, it introduced some new problems. Because the lamp boards used were single-sided, (this was presumably a cost analysis decision), the .156&amp;quot; header pins can develop cold solder joints and crack due to vibration. The problem can easily be rectified by removing the old solder from the header pins and applying fresh, new solder.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Typical issues with lamp board sockets and headers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PCBMountLampDivot.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Divots&amp;quot; in the connection pad of a &amp;quot;twist in&amp;quot; lamp.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WPCPCBLampBoardHeaders.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The solder on these header pins has been reflowed nicely.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following actions can help debug an individual socket failure:&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the non-working twist socket to another spot that is working. This will test that the bulb and socket itself are working. If not, replace the bulb, try to adjust the socket&#039;s contact legs, try to clean off the contact points if they are dirty, and if all that fails, replace the twist socket.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move a working twist socket into the position that is not working. If the socket works, the original socket may have been the problem. If the working socket also does not work in the non-working position, there is likely a problem with that position.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the connector, especially if it is an IDC connector. Sometimes a wire can pop out and lose connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the lamp board. Check the header pins for cracked solder joints and reflow the solder as necessary. Reinstall and test.&lt;br /&gt;
# [[General#Testing_a_Diode|Test the diodes with a multimeter]]. If any are bad, replace them. Make sure to orient the diode the same way that is indicated on the silkscreen. It&#039;s sometimes possible that a previous owner installed a diode the wrong way.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes the pads on the lamp board that the socket makes contact with get dirty or worn enough to put a divot in the metal. Clean off the contacts, and if that doesn&#039;t improve anything, tin the pads with a thin layer of solder.&lt;br /&gt;
# If none of this was successful, test for continuity between the lamp board and the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
# If wiring continuity checks out, [[#Controlled_Lamp_Operational_Description|troubleshoot the issue like any other controlled lamp]].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Controlled Lamp Operational Description =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WPC feature lamps are controlled from the WPC MPU and ultimately enabled via the driver board. The control signals are as follows.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 68B09EP places a data bit pattern on the data bus. This represents the lamp column to be strobed.&lt;br /&gt;
#The bit pattern is conveyed to the driver board via the ribbon cable between J211 on the MPU and J113 on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
#U9 on the driver board (a 74LS240) buffers the column bit pattern for U18 (a 74LS374).&lt;br /&gt;
#The ASIC on the MPU asserts the /LMP COL signal which &amp;quot;clocks&amp;quot; the data into U18 by pulsing pin 11.&lt;br /&gt;
#U18 outputs are connected to the ULN2803 at U20, which inverts the signal and enables one of eight TIP-107 Darlington transistors (Q91 thru Q98) that enable 18VDC to flow to the enabled column. This completes the column &amp;quot;strobe&amp;quot; portion of lamp matrix operation.&lt;br /&gt;
#The 68B09EP places a data bit pattern on the data bus. This represents the lamp rows to be strobed.&lt;br /&gt;
#The bit pattern is conveyed to the driver board via the ribbon cable between J211 on the MPU and J113 on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
#This bit pattern data is presented to four 74LS74s (Dual D-Type Flip-Flops) at U10 thru U13. This sets up a path to ground for the 18V lamp matrix power for each row enabled by the bit pattern&lt;br /&gt;
#The ASIC on the MPU asserts the /LMP ROW signal which &amp;quot;clocks&amp;quot; the data into U10 thru U13 via their &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; signal inputs.&lt;br /&gt;
#The (not) Q signal of each 74LS74 enables one of eight TIP-102 Darlington transistors (Q83 thru Q90) that provide the actual path to ground (through a .22 ohm 1 watt resistor) for the 18V lamp matrix power.&lt;br /&gt;
#&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;At this point, current flows from the enabled column circuitry, through the game wiring to the lamps, then through the row circuitry to ground for the rows that are enabled.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#The row enable signal is switched off when the LM339 comparators at U15 and U16 detect a voltage rise above the reference voltage present at pins 5, 7, 9, and 11 of both LM339s, via the &amp;quot;set&amp;quot; signal of each 74LS74 (U10 thru U13). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This process repeats itself over and over with the MPU cycling through columns 1 thru 8 while enabling specific rows, lighting lamps at the intersection of the enabled column and the enabled rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC089AlkalineDamagedLampMatrixEnable.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The column trace between the J211 dual row header and the ASIC chip socket (pin 63) clearly corroded away. The lamp row trace is immediately below the column trace and unaffected.]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are many possible causes for lamp matrix malfunctions. Some reasons, in order of probability are:&lt;br /&gt;
#Lack of 18V lamp matrix power. If LED6 is not lit, or TP8 shows other than 18V, &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; F114 for continuity with your DMM. If F114 is blown, test BR1 using the method specified [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier here].&lt;br /&gt;
#Failure of the row (TIP-102) or column (TIP-107) drive transistor. Both of these are easily diode tested and compared to the other 7 row/column drive transistors.&lt;br /&gt;
#For a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;column&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; failure: Failure of the ULN-2803 at U19. U19 works the same as U20 in the switch matrix, providing a periodic pulse to all columns.&lt;br /&gt;
#For a &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;row&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; failure: Failure of a 74LS74 at U10/11/12/13. Again, these parts can either be diode tested for, better yet, use a logic probe to see if they are delivering the necessary pulses. Compare the operation of similar pins.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failure of the associated .22 ohm 1 watt resistor in the path between 18VDC lamp matrix power and ground (R150 for example).&lt;br /&gt;
#Poor connections between J211 on the MPU and J113 on the power/driver board. Sometimes, reseating the ribbon cable on both ends will &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the issue. Replace the ribbon cable and examine the dual row headers if the problem becomes chronic.&lt;br /&gt;
#Prior work on the power/driver board. The data bus runs completely across the power/driver board, stopping in at several 74LS374s (U1 thru U5) along the way. The signals pass through the board from component side to solder side at U9. If the same column and row of the lamp matrix are not lighting (i.e. column 5, row 5), it&#039;s a good bet that the signal for that row/column is compromised in the area of U9. The traces at each IC are delicate and it&#039;s tough for most hobbyists to remove a 20 pin IC without damaging the traces. It&#039;s particularly vexing to encounter a problem where a data signal is held low or high by one of the 74LS374s since each data signal is connected to all of them and even using [diode test] sometimes can&#039;t identify the faulty IC. Some techs will cut the data signal pin close to the PCB for a 74LS374, using the process of elimination to identify the culprit (not recommended). Enough said, but it&#039;s easily seen that power/driver boards can be damaged quite easily by the novice. Send it to a pro.&lt;br /&gt;
#Fatigued connections between the ASIC on the MPU and it&#039;s chip socket. Since the ASIC provides critical enable signals for the lamp matrix, reseating or [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Information.asp?region=139 retensioning] these pins is reasonable course of action. [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Removing_the_ASIC Use a PLCC removal tool] to safely remove the ASIC without damaging the socket.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failure of any of the ICs noted above. Each of these ICs can be tested with a DMM set to [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit diode test]&lt;br /&gt;
#Corrosion on the MPU that might have compromised the enable signals, as seen in the picture at right. Corrosion can and will attack under the header pins at J211 on the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Quick Test of Lamp Column Transistors&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CheckingLampColumnDriveTransistors.jpg|200px|thumb|left|&amp;quot;Quick Test&amp;quot; for a shorted lamp column transistor.]]&lt;br /&gt;
If the game has an entire column of lamps locked on, there is a good chance that a lamp column transistor has shorted. Testing for this condition is very simple. Set your DMM to continuity. Touch one probe to the 18V lamp matrix test point as pictured at left. Touch the other probe to the tab of each of the TIP-107 transistors. Any that &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; are shorted and will need to be replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;General Lamp Matrix Testing&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control logic for the WPC lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using two jumper wires. The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the lamp matrix columns and rows.  The example applies to WPC-089 power/drive boards. The procedure is the same for WPC-95 power/driver boards, but the connector designations and transistor numbers differ. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Images authored by Sascha Voskuil, used with permission)&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing a working lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LampMatrixGeneralTesting.gif|center|General testing of the lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board. All columns operating normally.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Column 4 shorted in the lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LampMatrixColumn4Shorted.gif|center|Testing the lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board that has column 4 shorted.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Column 4 inoperative in the lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Note: In this animation, columns 4 and 2 are inoperative.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LampMatrixColumn4Inop.gif|center|Testing the lamp matrix circuit on a WPC-95 Power/Driver board that has column 4 open (inoperative).]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We provide this section for completeness knowing that WPC games offer independent lamp row and column tests as part of the diagnostics.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix columns:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP-107 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns.  Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it&#039;s function is to block current flow and prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix.  In this test we are connecting a single lamp at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to power/drive board connectors J133/134/135 (row) and J136/137/138 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug all connectors with red or yellow wires leading to them. These are the lamp matrix connections (lower right corner of power/driver board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and start &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to J137 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to J133 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on J137.  There is no pin 8 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a column doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q98&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Red&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q97&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q96&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;25&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q95&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;33&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q94&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;41&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q93&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;49&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q92&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J137-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Yel-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;57&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q91&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Testing the lamp matrix rows:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]] &lt;br /&gt;
Use the following procedure to test the TIP-102 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to power/drive board connectors J133/134/135 (row) and J136/137/138 (column).&lt;br /&gt;
#Unplug all connectors with red or yellow wires leading to them. These are the lamp matrix connections (lower right corner of power/driver board)&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on and start &amp;quot;All Lamps&amp;quot; test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the test jumper to J133 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to J137 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector&lt;br /&gt;
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working. &lt;br /&gt;
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on J133.  There is no pin 3 as it is the key.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a row doesn&#039;t light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.&lt;br /&gt;
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire Colors&lt;br /&gt;
!Lamp number&lt;br /&gt;
!Transistor number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Brn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q90&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blk&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q89&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Key Pin&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt; &amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Orn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q88&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Yel&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q87&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Grn&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q86&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Blu&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q85&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Vio&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q84&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J133-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red-Gry&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q83&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Lamp Issue Caused by Connecting &amp;quot;Growth&amp;quot; Connectors =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCErroneousConnection-1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A misplaced connector on Judge Dredd. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chuck Sanderson, CP Pinball&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCErroneousConnection-2.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The connector, not connected, as it should be.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LampMatrixHeadache.jpg ‎|200px|thumb|left|Lamp Matrix failure &amp;quot;map&amp;quot; created when J136 is erroneously connected on Judge Dredd]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An issue that seems to come up fairly often is caused by literally placing a square peg into a round hole.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The images shown here from a Judge Dredd shows a &amp;quot;growth&amp;quot; connector wired from the factory that was never used during production. It happens to be in the proximity of J136, a lamp matrix connector and the wires are lamp matrix wires (colored red and colored yellow). One could almost be forgiven for forcing the female housing onto J136 even though the connector types are different.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With this connector in place, all kinds of lamp matrix havoc ensues as shown in one lamp matrix &amp;quot;error map&amp;quot; shown at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The solution is simple. Remove the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;i&amp;gt;All images provided by Chuck Sanderson, [https://cppinball.com/ CP Pinball]&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Switches in WPC games fall into two categories, those within the switch matrix, and &amp;quot;direct&amp;quot; switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Submicro Switch Wiing.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical wiring for any Microswitch]]&lt;br /&gt;
First and foremost, all switches located in the switch matrix MUST have a diode. Secondly, the diode has to be installed in the correct orientation.  If a diode is installed &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, the end result my be that all of the switches in that particular row get triggered or even stranger issues occur.  Finally, the diode legs must not be connected to any of the other wires or terminals of the switch, or the switch will funk up the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the correct orientation for the wiring and the diode on a microswitch.  The white wire w/ trace and non-banded side of diode is connected to NC terminal.  The banded side of diode is connected to common terminal.  Finally, the green wire w/ trace is connected to NO terminal.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Built-in Switch Testing====&lt;br /&gt;
WPC games monitor switch closures as the game is played. If a switch is not activated after a certain number of balls (usually 30, but will vary depending on the switch in question), the game will show the &amp;quot;credit dot&amp;quot;, an indication to the operator that a switch may be faulty. Some switches are not often closed (like switch 55 located in the White Water pop bumper garden) and some switches simply aren&#039;t hit by rookie players (like the upper exit to the Twilight Zone mini playfield). Some switches will be marked non-operational immediately after a certain event where the switch is known to have been activated (switches related to The Shadow&#039;s brick wall drop target are one example; any error in the lock sequence causes the credit dot to light immediately).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a table held in NVRam that contains counters for all monitored switches.  Each ball served decrements the counter for each switch; as soon as that switch is hit on the playfield, the counter is reset to the initial value.  The credit dot gets lit when any counter for any monitored switch goes to zero. Switches such as flipper optos are set to very low initial values, as flippers are hit on every ball. It would have been possible to have higher values set for switches that would occasionally be activated but not often by novice players as noted above, however this aspect of the programming was rarely if ever used.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When a credit dot is lit, often the game will offer &amp;quot;switch compensation&amp;quot;, which was a Williams&#039; patented feature, that allowed a nearby or alternate switch to achieve the same result as hitting the original, marked non-operational, switch. This enabled a game with faulty switches to still be played close to the original gameplay. Sometimes the faulty switch will auto-clear itself when activated, but more often than not, the fault would have to be cleared manually. To clear a switch manually, enter the &amp;quot;Switch Edges&amp;quot; test (as described below), and manually activate the switch.  If the switch in question is functioning properly, activating the switch will remove the credit dot.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first action to be taken is to enter diagnostics. The game will indicate the reason(s) for the credit dot on the display, upon pressing the enter button on the coin door to receive a test report.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the normal switch matrix is 8 by 8, games like Twilight Zone, Star Trek: The Next Generation, and Indiana Jones employ a 9th column of switches. These switches are tested via a dedicated switch test tied to the playfield feature. An example is the Star Trek: The Next Generation cannon switches.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====T.1 Switch Edges Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCSwitchTestExample.jpg|400px|thumb|left|An example switch matrix display, this one from Twilight Zone. Note the opto switches in column 7 (for example) are shown as boxed dots.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Switches can be tested by entering Test T.1, Switch Edges. Switch Edges Test presents an 8 by 8 switch matrix grid with one or two switch columns outside of the matrix.  The additionally columns are for dedicated switches. The left column is for switches located on the coin door (all WPC games), and the right column is for flipper cabinet and flipper EOS switches (WPC games which use a Fliptronics board - Addams Family and newer). Open switches show as a simple dot on the DMD. Closed switches show as a boxed dot on the DMD. Microswitches and leaf switches will show as a dot when open. Optos will show as a boxed dot when the opto beam is not being broken. The last closed switch name and number will be shown on the display along with the two wire colors that are connected to that particular switch. While in switch edges test, manually closing properly operating switches will be shown on the display.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====T.2 Switch Levels Test=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Direct Switch Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Direct switch operation&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Direct switches include:&lt;br /&gt;
*Left coin chute&lt;br /&gt;
*Center coin chute&lt;br /&gt;
*Right coin chute&lt;br /&gt;
*4th coin chute&lt;br /&gt;
*Service Credits/Escape (referred to as &amp;quot;escape&amp;quot; here)&lt;br /&gt;
*Volume down/Down&lt;br /&gt;
*Volume up/Up&lt;br /&gt;
*Begin Test/Enter&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Direct switches are not part of the WPC switch matrix. All of the direct switches are located on the coin door, and connect to the MPU at J205.  The MPU senses these switches individually, and apart from the switch matrix.  Therefore, isolation diodes are not used with direct switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, with the switch open, the LM339s at U16 and U17 compare 12V (supplied on the MPU to both the switch and to the LM339) with 5V (as a comparison level) and signals the 74LS240 at U15 that the switch is open. When the switch closes, it shorts the 12V to ground and the comparison at the LM339 then indicates to U15 that the switch is closed. U15 is &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot; by pin 48 of the ASIC (SW DIR), causing U15 to present its data to the data bus. The 6809/ASIC &amp;quot;debounces&amp;quot; the switch. Debouncing is not a factor to be considered here and doesn&#039;t factor in switch testing at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Direct Switch Pinout at J205 for both WPC and WPC-S MPUs&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Notes:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
:J205, pin 5 is the &amp;quot;key&amp;quot; pin.&lt;br /&gt;
:J205, pin 10 provides ground (black wire)&lt;br /&gt;
:J205, pin 11 is unused&lt;br /&gt;
:J205, pin 12 is an &amp;quot;enable&amp;quot; back to the coin door interface board&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Signal&lt;br /&gt;
!Wire color at J205&lt;br /&gt;
!MPU pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Diode&lt;br /&gt;
!LM339 &amp;amp; input pin&lt;br /&gt;
!U15 input pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Left chute&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;   || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Brown&amp;gt;brown&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D15&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U17-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Center chute&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;    || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D16&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U17-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;13&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Right chute&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Black&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U17-11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;15&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;4th chute&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;    || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Yellow&amp;gt;yellow&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D18&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U17-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Escape&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;       || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;green&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U16-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  ||  &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Down&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;         || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Blue&amp;gt;blue&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;   || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U16-11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||  &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Up&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;           || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Purple&amp;gt;violet&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D13&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U16-7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  ||  &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Enter&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;        || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Orange&amp;gt;orange&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;/&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=Gray&amp;gt;gray&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;   || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;J205-9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;D14&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;U16-5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  ||  &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Debugging direct switch problems&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To discover the problem as quickly as possible, we&#039;ll divide the problem into smaller pieces. We must first determine if the problem is on the MPU board or the problem lies with the wiring to the coin door and/or the specific switch. If your MPU has obvious alkaline damage at U15, U16, or U17, address the alkaline damage first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Begin testing with the game OFF.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/switch&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove connector J205 from the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Build a jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of the jumper wire to the game&#039;s ground braid in the game head.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the game on&lt;br /&gt;
#Carefully touch the other end of your jumper wire to the appropriate pin on J205 as shown in the table.&lt;br /&gt;
#If the MPU carries out the function of the switch, the problem is not on the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#If the MPU does nothing, the problem is on the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Skip to the appropriate section below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Identifying problems NOT on the MPU&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the direct switch&#039;s path to ground&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Your game should still be turned off.&lt;br /&gt;
#DMM set to continuity.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to any game ground, like the lockdown bar or ground braid.&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on the solder joint between the switch and the black wire that provides ground. &lt;br /&gt;
#You should hear &amp;quot;tone&amp;quot;. If not, further diagnose the break in the black wire between the solder joint and game ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the direct switch itself&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Black lead of your DMM still clipped to game ground.&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) of the switch under test.&lt;br /&gt;
#Depress the switch. You should hear &amp;quot;tone&amp;quot;. If not, the switch is defective and not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot;. See the section below that describes cleaning these switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the signal path to the MPU&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip the black lead of your DMM on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the connector plug at J205 from the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on the appropriate pin of J205 for the switch under test. See the table above. It&#039;s easiest to access the pin through the rectangular hole in the back of the connector where the pin&#039;s &amp;quot;tang&amp;quot; snaps in.&lt;br /&gt;
#You should hear &amp;quot;tone&amp;quot;. If not, there is a discontinuity in the wire between the direct switch and J205. Note that the coin door interface board is between these two points. The coin door interface board is a &amp;quot;pass-through&amp;quot; for these signals and rarely causes a problem. Still, reseating connectors J1, J3, and J4 on the coin door interface board might uncover the problem. More likely, the wire between J1 on the coin door interface board and J205 has a break in it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Identifying problems on the MPU&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the signal path through J205 and onto the MPU&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
J205 is right below the battery holder and as such, sometimes receives the unwanted gift of dripping alkaline from depleted batteries.  Carefully examine both the male and female connections of J205 for alkaline &amp;quot;greenies&amp;quot;. Assuming no alkaline damage...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Begin with your game turned off.&lt;br /&gt;
#Connect J205 to the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.&lt;br /&gt;
#Red lead on the banded end of the appropriate diode shown in the table above.&lt;br /&gt;
#You should hear &amp;quot;tone&amp;quot;. If not, there is either a problem with the physical connection at J205 or the alkaline &amp;quot;greenies&amp;quot; are sneakier than you gave them credit for. Re-examine J205 and the surrounding area of the board for alkaline damage. The traces from the switch connectors are very small and it takes very little alkaline damage to compromise them. You may also re-pin the female side of J205.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point, a logic probe would be the best tool to use. You can pick up 5V power for your probe across the electrolytic cap at C31 which is immediately to the right of the battery holder. Black lead on the negative side (top of the cap). Red lead on positive side (bottom). The board is silkscreened with polarity markings. Set the logic probe to &amp;quot;CMOS&amp;quot; test mode, as you will be measuring 12VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you don&#039;t already have a logic probe, you should. Although for this test, you can still get by with your trusty DMM. Clip the black lead of your DMM to game ground. The ground braid in the head is a good place to pickup ground at this point. Set your DMM to DC volts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the LM339 inputs&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Start with the game turned off.&lt;br /&gt;
#Again, set your logic probe to &amp;quot;CMOS&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of your jumper wire to the appropriate pin of J205. Leave the other end of your jumper wire unconnected, but handy as you&#039;ll touch it to ground later.&lt;br /&gt;
#&amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;You now need to turn the game ON.&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Measure the signal at the appropriate LM339&#039;s appropriate pin shown in the table above. Either place your logic probe on the pin or place the Red lead of your DMM on the pin. The signal should measure high (or about 12VDC with your DMM).&lt;br /&gt;
#Now, with your other hand, touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.&lt;br /&gt;
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high, then the pin isn&#039;t being grounded correctly. Candidates are a failed diode/resistor in the circuit, the board trace between the diode and the LM339 is compromised, or a badly failed LM339.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test the LM339 outputs/74LS240 (U15) inputs&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your logic probe back to TTL as you will be measuring 0 - 5V signals&lt;br /&gt;
#Measure the signal at the appropriate pin (see table) of U15. The signal should measure high (or about 5VDC with your DMM).&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.&lt;br /&gt;
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high with the jumper wire grounded, then either the LM339 outputs have failed, the board trace between the LM339 and U15 is compromised, or the 74LS240 has failed and is corrupting the signal. You can test U15 using the procedure in the &amp;quot;How to...&amp;quot; section of PinWiki, [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_&amp;quot;stitch&amp;quot;,_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing an integrated circuit| here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The output side of U15 can&#039;t be tested effectively since that is the processor/ASIC data bus and should be constantly and irregularly changing states.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you&#039;ve followed this process step-by-step, you should have identified the problem with the signal and will be able to effectively perform the appropriate repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Cleaning direct switches&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;Coming soon...will describe disassembly and cleaning...&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, several rigorous open/close cycles will &amp;quot;clean&amp;quot; corrosion from the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/diodes/switches&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow these steps to determine if the switch matrix problem is on the CPU or somewhere in the game wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove connectors J206/J207, J208/209 and J212 from the bottom of the CPU (J206 and J207 are electronically the same and J208 and J209 are electronically the same).&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one lead of a test jumper to pin one of J207 making sure you don&#039;t touch any of the nearby pins on J207.&lt;br /&gt;
#Power the game on, and enter Switch Edge test (you&#039;ve left J205 on the CPU so the diagnostics switches still work).&lt;br /&gt;
#Touch the other end of the jumper to pin one on J209, then pin two and so on. You should see (and hear) the CPU indicate that switches #11, #12, #13, etc. are being &amp;quot;made&amp;quot; as you touch the pins of J209.  You should *never* see multiple switches being made.&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the jumper from J207 pin 1 to pin 2.  Re-test to every pin on J209, listening for the machine to read every switch as closed.  Continue in a similar manner testing each pin of J207 to every pin in J209.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following images, provided by Sascha Voksuil, grapically depict the above tests of the on-board switch matrix circuitry with a jumper wire. A diode is not required since the test jumpers directly from a single pin to a single pin. Remember, the purpose of switch diodes is switch isolation. Also, have no fear conducting this test. Unless you connect one end of the wire to high voltage, nothing can be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Switch matrix test ROWs1-8 with COL1.gif|left]][[File:Switch matrix test COLs1-8 with ROW1.gif|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If only one switch shows on the Switch Edge test for each pin combination, then the CPU&#039;s switch matrix is working properly and you can confidently assume that any switch problems lie elsewhere. Possibilities include a shorted wire, bad/broken/shorted diode, bad under playfield opto board, bad coin door interface board, etc. If the problem is observed with row 2 of the switch matrix, and you&#039;re game has a &amp;quot;-1 Power/Driver&amp;quot; board installed (the one with the flipper power relay), it is possible that one/both of the 4N25 opto-isolators on the power/driver board have failed. These opto-isolators communicate flipper switch closures for pre-FlipTronics games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If multiple switch closures are reported when you touch one pin of the connector, or if the CPU reports a row or column short, then there is a fault with the switch matrix circuitry on the CPU board itself. Be aware that an additional fault may still be present on the playfield. Switch matrix chips do not simply blow for no reason!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Blown ULN2803 (U20) Examples&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BlownULN2803.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;An obviously blown ULN2803 (U20) caused by shorting 50V coil power to the switch matrix. Ouch!&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WPCBlownULN2803.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Another obviously blown ULN2803...happens all the time...Don&#039;t work on your game with power on.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:WOCBlownU14.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Another obviously blown ULN2803...the HV jolt also took out U14, a 74LS374 which buffers the ULN2803 from the processor data bus.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CoilLugShortedToMetal.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Example jumper connection for testing the switch matrix. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of PinSider &amp;quot;sturner&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One farily common reason that a ULN2803 or other switch matrix circuitry may blow is a short to coil power. In the picture at left, the coil that actuates the &amp;quot;Bridge Diverter&amp;quot; on the game Twilight Zone, is touching the coil bracket on one side. Since coil power is present at both coil lugs (which is normal), a coil lug touching metal will conduct coil power to that metal. In this case, the coil bracket touches the bridge diverter piano wire and then the coil diverter and then the entire wireform. If a switch matrix solder tab or switch blade metal shorts to the wireform, poof! Get ready to replace your ULN2803.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== MPU Circuitry Switch Matrix Problem Diagnosis =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Quick Switch Column Strobe Testing ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSwitchColumnStrobeBenchTest.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing the switch column strobes quickly with a logic probe. The picture also shows a convenient place to connect logic probe power leads.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A quick way to test that switch column strobes are working properly, is to use a logic probe as shown in the picture at left. Each pin of J206/J207 (all WPC MPU versions) should be pulsing high.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Further MPU Circuitry Diagnosis ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following image (authored by Sascha Voskuil, used with permission) will help diagnose particular ICs at fault on the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-089MPULayout.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Color Coded Switch Matrix Circuitry.click image to enlarge]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let&#039;s use the diagram above to walk through a simple &amp;quot;on board&amp;quot; switch matrix issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A board presented with very slight alkaline damage to U20, the ULN2803. After socketing, and replacing the ULN2803, column 3 still failed to strobe. We used out logic probe to determine that pin 16 of U20 was strobing. Therefore, there MUST have been an on board fracture of the trace. Setting our DMM to continuity, and buzzing between J206 pin 3 (marked with a gray &amp;quot;3&amp;quot; in the diagram) and U20 pin 16 failed. Moving our probe from J206 pin 3 to the junction of R69 and C13 (also marked with a gray &amp;quot;3&amp;quot; in the diagram) succeeded. However, buzzing between the junction of R69/C13 and U20 pin 16 succeeded. Using this information, we must conclude that the discontinuity in the trace was between J206 pin 3 and the junction of R69/C13.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSwitchMatrixCorrodedTraceAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A look under connector J206 showing alkaline corrosion damage. This caused column 3 of the switch matrix to malfunction.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows the problem. Once the J206 header was removed, we could see that alkaline had dripped onto the connector and leached down to the solder joint. The corrosion etched enough of the trace away to prevent connectivity.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSwitchMatrixHeaderCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A different board, with a similar problem at the header pins...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSwitchMatrixConnectorCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|right|...and the matching female housings.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left shows another WPC-089 MPU board with a similar problem, but much worse. This board was the victim of dripping alkaline which invaded the trace which runs under the &amp;quot;C17&amp;quot; label to J206-9 and J207-9.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at right shows the female connector housings that were the victim, and transportation medium, for the alkaline corrosion. The connector on the left required repinning. The connector on the right showed only light damage which was cleaned up with a vinegar swab.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ImprovedSwitchMatrixDiagram.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Switch Matrix Circuit Operation. Note: Colors are coordinated with the prior diagram (authored by Sascha Voskuil, used with permission).  Click image to enlarge.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Cabinet Flipper Switch Detection Problem Diagnosis for Pre-FlipTronics Games =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCOptoIsolators.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Dual 4N25 Opto Isolators on the &amp;quot;-1&amp;quot; version of the WPC Power/Driver board can be seen in the top center of this picture (two 6 leg ICs at U7 and U8).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Pre-FlipTronics games detect closure of the flipper cabinet switches via two 4N25 Opto Isolators on the &amp;quot;-1&amp;quot; version of the power/driver board. If the &amp;quot;cursor&amp;quot; can&#039;t be moved during entry of HSTD initials or if the cabinet flipper buttons don&#039;t control video mode correctly, there is a good chance that one/both of the 4N25 opto isolators is shot. Games that may be affected include:&lt;br /&gt;
*Funhouse&lt;br /&gt;
*Harley-Davidson&lt;br /&gt;
*The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot&lt;br /&gt;
*Gilligan&#039;s Island&lt;br /&gt;
*Slugfest&lt;br /&gt;
*Terminator 2: Judgement Day&lt;br /&gt;
*Hurricane&lt;br /&gt;
*Party Zone&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCEarly-1PowerDriverBoard4N25.jpg|457px|thumb|left|Illustration provided by, and used with the permission of, Sascha Voskuil aka &amp;quot;Zaza&amp;quot;..]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The image at left illustrates the switch matrix connection between the 4N25 Opto Isolators on the Power/Driver board and the MPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCSwitchRowSchematicError.jpg|457px|thumb|left|Illustration provided by, and used with the permission of, Sascha Voskuil aka &amp;quot;Zaza&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some revisions of the WPC schematics contain an error, as illustrated by the image at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, testing an opto coupler is simple using the diode test function provided by most DMMs. Set the DMM to diode test, compare results against those pictured below (this test conducted on a 4N25 contained on a System 11 Interconnect Board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Testing a 4N25 Opto Coupler&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Internal.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The internal schematic of the 4N25. Pins 1 and 2 connect to an internal diode (LED). Pins 4 thru 6 connect to a PNP photo transistor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test3.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing the diode connected to pins 1 and 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test2.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 5, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:4N25Test1.jpg‎|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing part of the photo transistor. Black on pin 4, red on pin 6&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Special Note regarding RottenDog Power/Driver boards manufactured prior to February, 2012 ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCRottenDog4N25Error.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Illustration provided by, and used with the permission of, Sascha Voskuil aka &amp;quot;Zaza&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
RottenDog aftermarket power/driver boards manufactured prior to February, 2012 contain a trace layout/connection error that exchanges the function of the two 4N25 Opto Isolators on the board. That is, the 4N25 that should report a left flipper closure actually reports a right flipper closure, and vice-versa. This error can be corrected via two cuts and two jumpers, as illustrated in the image at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCRottenDog4N25ErrorCorrected.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Image provided by, and used with the permission of, PinSider &amp;quot;troxel&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shown at left is the correction implemented by PinSider &amp;quot;troxel&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCRottenDog4N25ErrorCorrected1.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Image provided by, and used with the permission of, PinSider &amp;quot;troxel&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The same image, annotated by Pinsider &amp;quot;zaza&amp;quot;, calls out the need for caution when making this mod. As can be seen, 75VDC is present in the area. A better implementation might be to route the jumper wires around the 4N25 instead of under it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== WPC95 Flipper Cabinet Switch Processing====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95CabinetSwitchCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Corrosion between pins 9 and 10 on this WPC-95 MPU caused a short between cabinet flipper switch circuits resulting in both flippers actuating when either cabinet switch was closed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:J212Corrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Corrosion on some of these pins caused erratic cabinet switch operation.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 system implementation moved the cabinet flipper button and EOS switch sensing from the FlipTronics II board to the MPU board. Simple voltage level comparison via LM339s senses shorts to ground for those switches. The connector that cabinet switch wiring is connected to (J212) is directly below the battery holder where leaky batteries can &amp;quot;drip&amp;quot; onto the connector, corroding both under the connector and the pins on the connector. Corrosion can cause many odd problems. If this happens, the corrosion can cause the flipper buttons to be sensed intermittently and/or incorrectly. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pictured at left is one case of corrosion impacting flipper operation. The corrosion caused the circuit to sense that both of the cabinet flipper buttons had been pressed when only one had been pressed. Standard alkaline corrosion cleanup takes care of this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switches====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Basic Operation=====&lt;br /&gt;
Williams opto switches are comprised of a &amp;quot;transmitter&amp;quot; and a &amp;quot;receiver&amp;quot; opto, which are each unique parts. This is different from later Sega and some Stern game systems where the optos that serve as transmitter and receiver are identical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transmitter opto is housed in a white plastic frame. It is powered by unregulated 12VDC. If the opto is good, measuring either solder joint of the opto should read about 12VDC as long as the game is turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the ball trough uses these opto transmitters also. Orient the ball trough transmitter flat side as is silkscreened on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:OptoTransmitter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The solder side of a typical Williams opto transmitter.]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:OptoTransmitterLED.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The component side of a typical Williams opto transmitter. When replacing the opto, orient the flat side toward the &amp;quot;K&amp;quot; (equivalently, orient the &amp;quot;short&amp;quot; leg of the opto toward the &amp;quot;K&amp;quot;)]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The receiver opto is housed in a black plastic frame. This &amp;quot;IR detector&amp;quot; opto conducts the 12VDC supplied to it, as long as the transmitter&#039;s &amp;quot;light&amp;quot; is cast upon it. Once the transmitter light is removed, the opto no longer conducts the 12VDC. Typically, circuitry on an &amp;quot;opto switch board&amp;quot; interprets the lack of 12VDC using an LM339 comparator, and indicates that the switch is open. Remember that the &amp;quot;sense&amp;quot; of opto switches is reversed from regular &amp;quot;hard&amp;quot; switches such as leaf switches and micro-switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the ball trough uses these opto receivers also. Orient the ball trough receivers flat side so that the leg on the flat side is furthest away from the &amp;quot;ear&amp;quot; that is silkscreened on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:OptoReceiver.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The solder side of a typical Williams opto receiver.]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:OptoReceiverLED.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The component side of a typical Williams opto receiver with an aftermarket receiver LED. When replacing the opto, orient the flat side toward the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; (equivalently, orient the &amp;quot;short&amp;quot; leg of the opto toward the &amp;quot;C&amp;quot;). OEM LEDs have an &amp;quot;ear&amp;quot; that matches the silkscreen on the board]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Opto Testing=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:OptoTestingWithDigitalCamera.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing an opto &amp;quot;sending&amp;quot; unit with a digital camera. This opto pair senses &amp;quot;Rudy Hits&amp;quot; in Funhouse. The white opto housing can be seen (upside down)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;sending side&amp;quot; or transmitter side of an opto pair, which should be housed in a white plastic frame, can be tested with just about any digital camera. In the picture at left, an iPhone camera was used to clearly see the purplish glow of a working opto sender.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;receiving side&amp;quot; of an opto pair, which should be housed in a black plastic frame, can be tested with just about any strong incandescent flashlight. Note that an LED flashlight does not typically work too well for this test.  Place the game in switch test. Block the sending opto that would normally illuminate the receiver under test. Shine your bright incandescent flashlight on the reciever opto. The switch state as shown on the display should change.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====7 Opto Board Testing=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:7OptoBoard.jpg|300px|thumb|right|An example WPC 7 Opto Board, as found in AFM, WH2O, and many other WPC games.]] &lt;br /&gt;
The 7-Opto Board (A-14977, A-15576, A-15595) pictured at right, can be tested &amp;quot;in-situ&amp;quot; with a simple jumper wire and a DMM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Procedure&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Test the LM339 comparators&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the game into switch test (T.1)&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the balls from the game to prevent them from crashing down on the playfield (or stuff a rag into the ball loading hole)&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the playfield in the vertical position&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the J2 connector on the 7 opto board&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip one end of a jumper to J2/pin 10&lt;br /&gt;
#In turn, touch the other end of the jumper to pins 1 through 7 of J2&lt;br /&gt;
#With each connection, a opto switch activation should be enunciated on the display&lt;br /&gt;
#If all 7 switch activations are enunciated, this proves that all of the LM339 comparator circuits are working. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Test the 12VDC power supply circuits&lt;br /&gt;
#Set a DMM to DC volts (less than 20 if not using an auto-ranging DMM)&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the J1 connector&lt;br /&gt;
#Clip the black lead of a DMM to J1/pin 10 (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
#With the DMM red lead, measure DC voltage at pins 1 through 8 (excluding pin 4)&lt;br /&gt;
#Each pin should measure about 12VDC&lt;br /&gt;
#If all 7 pins measure about 12VDC, this proves that each of the 12V power circuits (and the 270 ohm current limiting resistors) are working.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a game opto pair fails to function properly, yet both of the above tests pass, then either the opto transmitter or receiver has failed or the wire/connector connection between the opto board and one/both playfield optos has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;quot;Jittery&amp;quot; Opto Switches ====&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible for all opto switches in the game to act erratically. This can be difficult to diagnose because the problem can manifest itself in various ways during game play.  For instance, the bulldozer blade in &amp;quot;Roadshow&amp;quot; may occasionally be unable to find it&#039;s home position.  Or, the auto launcher in &amp;quot;Twilight Zone&amp;quot; may seem to want to launch a ball when none is present. Since the cabinet flipper switches are sometimes optos as well, the game&#039;s flippers may also behave strangely.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first step is to check the optos in switch edge test. If the optos appear to blink on and then off, when the actual physical state of the opto is open, suspect an issue with the unregulated 12VDC voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Measure for about 12VDC at TP1 on the power/driver board. If the voltage is significantly below 12VDC (i.e. around 10VDC) then there may be a problem with the bridge rectifier at BR5 or the 15,000uf filter capacitor at C30. Examine the solder joints at C30, especially if that capacitor has been replaced in the past. A damaged through hole may effectively remove the filter cap from the circuit, AC voltage will remain in the power circuit, and the optos will be flakey.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use your DMM to [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier test the bridge rectifier] and to &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between the solder joints at the cap and the appropriate legs of BR5. If this connection is flakey, repair it using a [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 solder stitch] or connect jumpers from the C30 to BR5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Other Switch &amp;quot;Jitter&amp;quot; Reasons====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-C2-Leaking.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A leaky electrolytic cap at C2 caused the &amp;quot;digital&amp;quot; 12V to drop to about 10.5VDC.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The electrolytic cap C2 in the regulated 12VDC circuit leaks quite often, eroding the traces, sometimes severing the connection completely and sometimes reducing the 12VDC power output to something lower. This can wreak havoc on the switch matrix as the regulated 12VDC is used by the LM339 comparators on the MPU board to detect switch closures. Normal cleanup procedures can be used; wipe clean, sand as necessary, retin traces, and replace the cap with a 100uf/35VDC cap (an upgrade).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Sub-microswitch Issues ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:WPCMicroSwitch.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A typical micro-switch and wireform.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some WPC games have an issue with micro-switches that are heat damaged during game assembly. When soldering the wire lead(s) onto the switch, flux leaches into the switch body and, over time, causes the switches to become &amp;quot;sticky&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game switches from smoky environments often become intermittent or fail. You may be able to repeatedly actuate the switch with your finger and get it to work for a game session, but when you return to the game later, the switch will have failed again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tightening the screws too tightly on the switch can damage the switch internals making the switch intermittent.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The switches in games that were played on location for many years simply wear out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When micro-switches are damaged or past their useful lifetime, there is nothing to repair, adjust, or clean inside them.  Simply replace them for reliable operation. You can purchase generic switch bodies and transfer the wireform carefully to the new body. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Wiring====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SwitchWiringSchematic.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Williams Individual Switch Connection Schematic. The green wire is the switch column. The white wire is the switch row.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams switches are always wired the same. The white (plus tracer) colored wire (row) always attaches to the same solder lug as the NON-banded end of the diode. The green (plus tracer) colored wire (column) always attaches to a lug by itself. The banded end of the diode always attaches to a lug by itself. This creates the following circuit, shown schematically at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The picture gallery below provides an example of correct wiring for different types of switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Connections for Various Types of Williams Switches&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:StandUpSwitchWiring.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Slingshot Switch. The Green and White wires go off-frame to the other slingshot switch in the pair.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:StandUpSwitchWiring-A.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Standup Target&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PopBumperSwitchWiring.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Typical Pop Bumper Switch&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:MicroSwitchWiring.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Older Style Micro Switch&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SubMicroSwitchWiring.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Pervasive Sub-MicroSwitch&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:ReedSwitchWiring.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Reed Switches, as found in Cactus Canyon and NBA Fastbreak. The diodes are located elsewhere.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Display problems are usually the result of failing dot matrix displays themselves, flakey ribbon cables or connectors, ribbon cables installed &amp;quot;one row off&amp;quot; (or even one column off), failing high voltage sections of the dot matrix controller board, and rarely logic IC problems on the dot matrix controller board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start by checking the easy things first...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Reseat the narrow ribbon cable between the DMD controller board and the DMD.&lt;br /&gt;
#Reseat the wide ribbon cables from the MPU to the DMD controller.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure each ribbon cable is correctly mated, and not &amp;quot;one row off&amp;quot; or even &amp;quot;one column off&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Panel Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The display panel itself may have problems. The glass component has a limited life. The continued electrical discharge releases gases inside the display, which eventually stop the pixels from glowing, and the dots will slowly fade over time. If the voltages are too high, the panel will show sparkles, clouds or ghosting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====DMD Repair Warnings====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Be careful when repairing the DMD Controller Boards, you are dealing with High Voltages when the boards are running&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
A good safety measure is to put one hand in a back pocket (or behind your back) when testing voltages. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s also fairly easy to lift traces on the PCB or ruin the &#039;through holes&#039; when removing components.  If this happens, you may have to check continuity and &#039;stitch&#039; the component hole with a thin wire strand. It&#039;s a good idea to practice on some useless PCB boards first, before taking on the DMD Controller Boards.  For details on a stitch see the  [[General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22| &amp;quot;How to Stitch&amp;quot;]] section of the Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;If you do not have decent soldering and de-soldering skills, DMD HV work should be left to a professional.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HV Repair Kits and advice are available from&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com Ed at Great Plains Electronics]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WPC95-HVP-KIT WPC-95 HV REPAIR KIT]&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WPC-HVP-KIT  WPC HV REPAIR KIT]&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;GPE kits do not contain capacitors, which can be ordered separately as needed&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HV Repair Kits and advice are also available from&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
[http://LockWhenLit.com Rob Anthony at Pinball Classics]&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://LockWhenLit.com/Products.aspx WPC-95 or WPC HV REPAIR KIT]&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;Indicate in the notes section of the order if you need the WPC or the WPC-95 HV kit, Pinball Classics kits do contain the 150µF 160V capacitors&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bally/Williams and Data East have similarities with the 128x32 display and the display itself is interchangeable between manufacturers.  DMDs have a limited lifetime and will eventually outgas.  Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Score_Display_Issues | information about outgassing displays]] in the Data East section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Testing DMD Controller Power====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingDMDVoltagesAtTheDMDConnector.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing DMD Controller voltages at the display]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
After you&#039;ve checked the easy things, measure the voltages supplied by the DMD controller to the DMD display panel. To test the DMD controller voltages, first open the backbox, and rest the DMD panel face down on the glass. The simplest place to test the voltages provided by the DMD controller is at the display end of the power wire bundle as shown in the picture. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;SAFETY WARNING: Your left hand should be in your pocket, to avoid a potentially serious shock. We are working with high voltages, so be VERY CAREFUL. Keeping one hand in your pocket is a good practice to follow as it eliminates the easy electric current pathway across your heart. A DMD controller provides enough electric current to kill you!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:OverDrivenDMDDisplay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A manifestation of overdriving a DMD with too much voltage.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Most high voltage problems are lack of the proper voltage levels. This results in no display at all. It is possible however, for the high voltage circuitry to fail in such a way that too much voltage is supplied. Or, a game might be jumpered for a lower expected voltage but connected to higher voltage. This manifests as a &amp;quot;plasma&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;cloudy&amp;quot; look on the display, as shown on the left. Note that this looks very much like an outgassed display.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCDotPowerTest.gif|200px|thumb|left|Testing AC input voltages to the DMD Controller board. Click on the image to show the animation. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image provided by Sascha Voksuil aka Pinsider Zaza.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the display image has a &amp;quot;plasma&amp;quot; affect or a &amp;quot;cloudy&amp;quot; look, it&#039;s a good idea to test the input voltage to the DMD Controller board, as depicted in the animated image at left. Nominal voltages are 80VAC and 100VAC. If measurements indicate voltages significantly higher than the nominal voltages, ensure the voltage select jumpers are correct, as discussed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Primary_Voltage_Selection_Jumpers_at_the_Transformer here].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The dot matrix display needs three voltages to operate. Williams designed the DMD controller to drive the the DMD display panel just a bit below its specified voltages, presumably to extend the life of the panel. You can find the specification of a panel [http://www.vishay.com/docs/37006/apd128g.pdf here]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Place the black lead of the DMM under the ground braid in the game&#039;s head or use clip leads to secure the black lead to ground. Remember, you are working one-handed, so this becomes a necessity. Place the red lead of your DMM on each of the pins supplying power as shown in the picture. At some point in the production of DMD controllers, Williams changed the Anode and offset voltages from about -124VDC and -112VDC to about -112VDC and -100VDC. As long as there is a 12VDC difference between the Anode and 12VDC offset voltages, your DMD controller is providing correct voltage levels.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Function&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;J604 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Spec&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;nominal WPC voltage&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Anode        || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;-110V&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;-112V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;-124V in early DMD machines&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;12VDC Offset&amp;amp;nbsp; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||  &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;-98V&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;-100V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Must be 12V less than anode voltage. Will be about 20V less than anode voltage if display not connected&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Key          || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||                        ||                              ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground       || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||                        ||                              ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground       || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||                        ||                              ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;5VDC         || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||    &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;5V&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;5V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;    ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;12VDC        || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||   &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;12V&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;12V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;   ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;Cathode      || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; ||   &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;75V&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;62V&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;   || &amp;amp;nbsp;Williams runs this voltage low&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the high voltages are off by more than a few volts, turn the game off, disconnect the power connector at the DMD controller, and test the voltages at the DMD controller male header pins. If the voltages return to nominal WPC voltages, the zener diodes on the DMD controller are probably OK but the resistors and transistors around them are suspect. As shown in the table above, if DMD controller power is not connected to the display, the nominal 12VDC offset will be about 20VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that a failing or failed DMD display glass can drag these voltages down. Before you begin any work on the DMD controller board, perform the above test with the DMD display power disconnected. If the voltages return to nominal WPC voltages, it&#039;s possible that your display is the culprit. Test the DMD controller with a known good display to isolate the fault to either the DMD controller or the display panel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LowHVSupply.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Measuring for 62VDC, and finding only 19.95VDC. The result of this low component of the high voltage trio can be seen in the picture. The manifestation is similar to an outgassed display. The display is showing &amp;quot;FREE PLAY&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For the 62V and -112V circuits Williams used a relatively sophisticated regulator circuit. The problem is, the resistors and diodes dissipate quite a lot of heat. In a warm operating environment, this leads to burned components and circuit boards. The board traces are often weakened. Repair in the area is tricky.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a description of the function of the parts in the -112V circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q1 is an output buffer. It just follows the voltage set at the top of zener diode D2.&lt;br /&gt;
Q2 and Q3 form a constant current 5mA driver for  the diode.&lt;br /&gt;
Q2 is a current control for D2. By pulling on the base of Q2, the zener current can be reduced to compensate for the diode leaking as it&lt;br /&gt;
warms.&lt;br /&gt;
Q3 is a current sensor for D2. Note the very low 120 ohm resistor. If D2 passes more than 5mA, Q3 will start to turn on, and reduce the current through the diode by pulling on the base of Q3. So the zener diode always operates at 5mA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transistors can be tested in circuit, just watch out for the 120 ohm resistors across the base and emitter of Q3.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board is subject to transistor shorts, which can also blow out the resistors. Open resistors are a common problem if Q2 and Q3 are bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Slow Animations====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Pre-DCSSoundCardSolderBridge.jpg|thumb|200px|left|A solder bridge formed on a pre-DCS sound card, affecting speed of display animations.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Slow animations along with sound synced to the animation is a very unusual problem. It is caused by a manufacturing defect in pre-DCS sound boards. As shown at left, an imperfect solder mask led to a solder bridge connecting pins 31 (R/W, read/write) and 34 (FIRQ) on the solder side of the sound board. By connecting the FIRQ signal and the R/W signal, the whole system slows down due to extraneous FIRQ interrupts to the MPU ASIC. The correction for this is straightforward, remove the solder bridge.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TZSlowAnimations.jpg|thumb|200px|left|A screen shot from the YouTube video showing slow animations on a Twilight Zone.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A YouTube video of this problem can be found [http://www.youtube.com/embed/gThgBHVuwio?autoplay=1&amp;amp;rel=0 here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A PinSide thread leading to this solution can be found [http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-slow-dmd-animations-and-parts-suggestions here].&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====&amp;quot;SuperScript or SubScript&amp;quot; Characters====&lt;br /&gt;
One of the more interesting display failures is the appearance of characters on some display formats that appear to be shifted up/down 1/2 character or SuperScripted/SubScripted. The cause of this failure is not the display or the dot controller. This failure is caused by a poor connection between the ASIC on the MPU board and it&#039;s socket. Reseating the ASIC generally solves this problem. You can &amp;quot;retension&amp;quot; the ASIC leads using this [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/tech_wms_asics.asp method] provided by Ed at GPE.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Super/Subscripted Characters&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DisplaySuperScript.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Superscripted characters...&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DisplaySubScript.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Subscripted characters...&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;quot;Rolling&amp;quot; Horizontal Line on WPC-95 Display ====&lt;br /&gt;
This problem resembles an old CRT with a vertical hold problem. A wide horizontal line &amp;quot;rolls&amp;quot; through the display from top to bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This problem is easily rectified by replacing C28 and C42 on the Audio/Video board. The original value of these radial capacitors was 150µF/160V. If the original valued capacitors can&#039;t be located, the more common 220µF/160V cap is a good replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Outgassing Displays ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:OutGassedDMDDisplay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An &amp;quot;outgassed&amp;quot; display on a Williams FishTales during display test (all pixels should be on except the single vertical line). This display took several minutes to &amp;quot;warm up&amp;quot;. The plasma seemed to &amp;quot;float&amp;quot; with various portions at the top of the display appearing dark.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
:DMDs will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display as they place extra strain on the power supply, and will eventually damage the power supply. One sign of an outgassing display is that areas of the display need to &#039;warm up&#039; before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Outgassing displays look very much like a display that is being overdriven by too much voltage. The acid test is to measure the high voltage using the technique described later in this section.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Display is &amp;quot;delayed&amp;quot; after turn on ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are cases of import machines incorporating an aftermarket circuit that delays the DMD display from appearing for a fixed amount of time after the game is booted. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information could not be ween when the machine is powered on, thereby preventing identification of a game and potential sales/operation outside a given geographic area. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard.  More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====&amp;quot;Snow&amp;quot; on Display====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Snow&amp;quot; in this case means rapidly flowing, left to right, &amp;quot;sprays&amp;quot; of dots, almost like can be seen when &amp;quot;spraying&amp;quot; the gun while moving it left to right in Attack from Mars video mode, but much faster.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of this in at least one case was found to be a failed 74HC74 (dual D-Type Flip-Flop) at U4. Pin 5 is the &amp;quot;serial clock&amp;quot; signal to the DMD display. Diode testing indicated that the gate had failed. Replacement of the IC returned the board to normal service.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Fuse F601 or F602 blows====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCDMDControllerBridgeTestingStep1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing the bridge, step 1, red lead on negative.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC DMD controller rectifies AC voltage via two small 1 amp bridge rectifiers. If a bridge shorts, generally the associated fuse will blow. Sometimes the current draw on the other side of the bridge is so great that the fuse blows too. Whatever the reason, the bridge can be easily tested using the same general bridge testing technique.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The pin layout for these small bridges is different from the larger 35A bridges on the power/driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Begin with your DMM set to diode check, and the red probe on the leg marked with a negative sign as shown in the picture at left. Placing the black lead on each of the AC legs in turn should yield a reading between .5 and .7 volts. If your measurements fall outside of this range, replace the bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCDMDControllerBridgeTestingStep2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing the bridge, step 2, black lead on positive.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Next, move the black probe to the leg marked with a positive sign as shown in the picture at left. Placing the red lead on each of the AC legs in turn should yield a reading between .5 and .7 volts. If your measurements fall outside of this range, replace the bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ArcToGroundBlowsF601.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The circled area clearly shows where this trace arced to ground.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another reason for F601 to blow is shown at left. Some revisions of the DMD Controller routed the trace from one side of BR1&#039;s AC power to F601 too close to the lower right screw that secures the board to the backbox ground. If the star washer for this screw bites through the solder mask, this creates a direct path to ground, blowing F601, as it should. This can be corrected by either leaving the screw out, using a nylon washer, or using a nylon screw. Any of these three methods will work fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Schematic Diagram for WPC and WPC-95 DMD Controller Board====&lt;br /&gt;
This link explains my experience repairing a Twilight Zone (&#039;93 WPC) DMD Controller Board.&lt;br /&gt;
Also repaired the actual display PCB, which was damaged from a from a faulty +62v circuit:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.firepower.2ya.com/4-TZ-dmd-repair.html TZ DMD Controller Board Repair]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematic for DMD HV section WPC only (adapted from TZ manual):&lt;br /&gt;
[http://firepowerpinball.com/2ya/tz/wpc-dmd-hv-tz.pdf WPC DMD HV]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematic for DMD HV section WPC95 only (adapted from AFM manual):&lt;br /&gt;
[http://firepowerpinball.com/2ya/tz/wpc95-dmd-hv-afm.pdf WPC95 DMD HV]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here’s a schematic with a list of the parts needed for both WPC and WPC-95 high voltage section repairs. the two boards are similar in the high voltage regulation sections.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DotControllerHVIcon.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Click on the hyperlink at right for the .pdf of this circuit.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/e/e6/Wpc-dmd-hv-all.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC-089-HV-CheatSheet.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Click on the hyperlink at right for the .pdf HV section cheatsheet.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/c/cd/WPC-HV-Section.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WPC-089-HV-CheatSheet.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another area which will help with troubleshooting the DMD Controller Board can be found in the DE section of the PinWiki (DE copied the Williams board designs), [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#PS_520-5047-01_-_High_Voltage_Missing_at_the_DMD_display Data East High Voltage Repair].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following images of a fairly crispy WPC-089 DMD controller will assist you in ensuring that all traces are repaired.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;DMD Controller, High Voltage Section Parts removed&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DMDControllerFrontSideTraces.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Front side traces. The yellow line shows where a trace had burned off of this board.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DMDControllerRearSideTraces.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Rear side traces.&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Heat Damaged Trace Under R9 ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCDotControllerRoastedTrace.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The burn spot in the center of this picture obliterated the trace that runs from R3/C4 to R11, indicated by the yellow line.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Resistor R9 eats a lot of current and becomes very hot, especially as the associated circuit components age. This damages the trace and PCB beneath it, sometimes to the extent that the trace is severed. &amp;quot;Buzzing&amp;quot; the connection between C4 and R11 is a simple test to ensure continuity of this trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Failed RAM====&lt;br /&gt;
Most failures of the DMD controller that are not attributed to the high voltage section are caused by failed 6264 static RAM at U24. Since the RAM is very susceptible to electrostatic discharge, they are often damaged by improper handling. Sometimes, they just fail. Failure of this RAM manifests in many ways, including some shown below. At the very end of &amp;quot;display test&amp;quot; the MPU performs a read/write test of the RAM. If the MPU is able to communicate properly with the DMD controller, writing to and reading from the 6264 at U6, then the message &amp;quot;RAM TEST OK&amp;quot; is shown on the display. Any other message indicates a failure of the test. Test failure may be due to the I/O buffers on either the MPU or the DMD controller, the ribbon cable, or the actual RAM.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; A YouTube video of a successful display test can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IK6PZL8I5o here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Page Errors====&lt;br /&gt;
There are 2 pages of 16 memory locations (0 to 15) stored in RAM on the DMD controller board. In the Display diagnostics it will run the page test and display any possible faults on either the low page or the high page (page 1 and 2 respectively) If you are only seeing errors on page 1, look to change out U33, most likely at least one output stuck high (pins 2,7,10,15). Page 2 errors the likely culprit is U35. Both devices are 74LS175. If you are seeing the same errors on both page tests, most likely it will be U16, a 74LS157, which is the A/B selector between the two page addresses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Page errors will also throw up a RAM address error. The RAM is not at fault, just how it is addressed by the page selectors. It should clear after attending to the above&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; the coin door buttons for advance/go back can be held down to quickly move through display test.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=350px heights=100px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Various display issues resulting from failed 6264 RAM on the WPC-089 DMD Controller board.&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BadRAM-1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Example 1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BadRAM-2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Example 2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BadRAM-3.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Example 3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BadRAM-4.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Example 4&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:BadRAM-5.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Example 5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Blown6264.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;This random pattern caused by a blown 6264 RAM. It was blown by sending Flipper Coil power (nominally 70VDC) down the data lines (D0-D7).&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Failures of Various Logic ICs on the DMD Controller====&lt;br /&gt;
The following images represent various failures associated with specific ICs on the DMD Controller board. Of course, the specific way that an IC fails will influence what is displayed. That is, your mileage may vary.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCDotControllerU1Failure.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U1 - 74HCT138 - evenly distributed non-moving &amp;quot;snow&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before going any further, check all of the basics in the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting] section. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Sound Board Interface Error ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface&amp;quot; error occurs when the MPU board can not communicate properly with the sound board at boot up. There could be several reasons for this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Ribbon connector not properly seated. The ribbon to the sound board(s) originates at J202 on the MPU board, goes to the FlipTronics board, then to the sound board (whether pre-DCS or DCS), then on to the DMD controller board.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed ribbon cable. Due to over-flexing, the ribbon may have failed.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mismatched ROMs between the MPU and sound board. This isn&#039;t as big of an issue as with Data East games, but updating the game ROM to a newer version while leaving the sound ROMs at an older, even prototype version, could cause this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder bridges, or corrosion under the ribbon connector.&lt;br /&gt;
#Failed I/O buffer ICs on either the sound board or on the MPU board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On &#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;DCS sound boards&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;, U18 buffers data &#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;from&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039; the MPU. U19 buffers data &#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;to&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039; the MPU. Testing these ICs using the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit this method] should yield similar results to the values listed below. Note that this test method can&#039;t identify either a good or a bad integrated circuit with 100% certainty but using this test is preferable to removing chips unnecessarily. These readings were taken using a Fluke 179 DMM. Different meters, different manufacturers chips, and even individual variation in manufacture will probably cause your readings to be slightly different, yet consistently different. i.e. If the table shows .657 and your meter yields .630, then every pin listed at .657 should read close to .630 with your meter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Probe pin 10 with the DMM red lead. Probe each of the other pins with the black lead.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Diode Test Value U18&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Diode Test Value U19&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;1&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.583&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.580&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;2&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.519&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.659&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;3&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.657&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.510&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;4&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.657&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.516&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;5&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.511&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.656&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;6&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.511&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.656&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;7&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.657&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.510&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;8&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.657&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.510&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;9&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.511&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.656&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;10&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red Lead&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Red Lead&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;11&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.580&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.580&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;12&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.510&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.657&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;13&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.657&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.518&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;14&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.657&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;.516&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:WPCSoundBoardInterfaceErrorCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Corrosion in the area of a critical signal caused a &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface Error&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The root cause of a &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface Error&amp;quot; on a Star Trek:The Next Generation game is shown at left. The corrosion on the trace leading to pin 28, created a conductive bridge to pin 29, which is a critical signal to the sound board (WDEN).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPCpreDCSSoundBoardSolderBridgeatU16.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A solder bridge at the circled location (U16), connecting pin 7 of the IC (ground) to the via and hence connecting pin 2 to ground, manifested as a &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface Error&amp;quot;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another physical PCB problem pictured at left (but repaired), caused a &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface Error&amp;quot;. The sounds on this board operated fine since the error was in the hardware that talks back to the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A similar problem can be the cut component lead just left above the yellow circle. If it is bend towards the printed trace and making contact, it can also manifest itself as the &amp;quot;Sound Board Interface Error&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shorting the Speaker Leads or a Shorted Speaker ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BlownTDA2030.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Clearly, a major malfunction.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A blown sound amp will cause a loud buzz when the game is powered on. Generally, amps blow due to reduced impedance (aka resistance, ohms) in the speaker(s). If a speaker shorts, the associated amp(s) will blow. Or, if the drive connection (not ground) to a speaker breaks free of the speaker connection lug and touches ground with the power on, the associated amp(s) will blow. Note that the speaker metal housing is connected to ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The image at left shows two amps from the same WPC-95 AV board that were blown when the non-ground speaker wire broke free and touched the speaker housing. It is good practice to solder the speaker wires onto the speaker connection lugs to prevent this from every happening.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Diode testing is an effective method of determining that an amp is blown. Place the red lead of your DMM on the center leg of the amp and test each of the remaining four legs. Compare results to a known good amp of the same type. Generally, readings between .5 and .8 should be observed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Lowering the Minimum Volume ====&lt;br /&gt;
By default the game volume can be set no lower than &#039;8&#039; to prevent an operator from setting the volume too low. This can be overridden by entering the adjustments menu and setting Adjustment 1.28 (Minimum Volume Override) to yes. You can now set the volume as low as you like.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====High Frequency Sound Only====&lt;br /&gt;
This applies to pre-DCS and DCS sound boards.  Uncertain if AV boards apply or not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a situation where only the tweeter / high frequency sound can only be heard.  This will result in the game sounding much quieter than usual.  Most speaker systems are parallel circuits.  However, the woofer on a pre-DCS sound system is in series with the midrange speaker.  The high frequency speaker is in a parallel circuit to the mid and low range speakers.  If there is no sound from the woofer in the bottom of the cabinet, there will be no midrange from the speaker panel. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, make certain that the speaker output wiring from the sound board is connected correctly.  Also, there is a bullet connection located inline which must be connected.  This bullet connections ties the low and midrange speakers in series.  Finally, check the connections at the woofer in the bottom of the cabinet to make certain the female spade connectors are secured to the speaker terminals.  If all connections are secure, there is a chance that the woofer speaker is blown.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Pre-DCS Sound Board Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The blue Philips 47µF 35v axial electrolytic capacitors on these sound boards are prone to failure, often testing with no capacitance or extremely high equivalent series resistance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Power on Sound Tones (Bongs) =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a successful boot, the game should make a single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; sound. The game provides a sound board problem indication with the following number of bongs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pre-DCS Sound Board Games.&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - U9 RAM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - U18 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - U15 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - U14 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====No Sound at all=====&lt;br /&gt;
The highest probability reason for the complete lack of sound is connections to the speakers. The IDC connectors at J504 and J505 carry the sound to all speakers in the game. Since the speakers are connected in series on a pre-DCS game, any break in the speaker signal loop will cause loss of all sound. First check the small gauge wires at connectors J504 and J505. Since they are IDC connectors, they are prone to breaking free from the connector. Next ensure that all speaker connections are solid.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible for a speaker to fail, commonly called &amp;quot;blown&amp;quot;. You can test a speaker by applying anything from an AA battery to a 9V battery to the speaker terminals. You should see the speaker cone react when the battery is touched to the terminals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Unbalanced Sound=====&lt;br /&gt;
Pre-DCS sound boards are not 100% interchangeable across games. Games from Funhouse to Party Zone (including Funhouse, Harley Davidson, Bride of Pinbot, Slugfest, Gilligan&#039;s Island, Terminator 2, Hurricane, and Party Zone) use different resistor values at R23/R24 than the remaining games that used the pre-DCS sound board (games from Hot Shots basketball through The Addams Family Gold). If you find the sound &amp;quot;unbalanced&amp;quot; between background sounds and voices, for instance, check the following resistor values.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
R23/R24 values for...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
::Funhouse through Party Zone - 150K ohms&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
::Hot Shots through TAFG - 56K ohms&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the resistor value indicated in the schematics for pre-DCS sound boards at R22 and R25 are wrong. The schematics indicate 150K ohms. The correct value is 120K ohms.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Distorted or slightly &amp;quot;off&amp;quot; sounds=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:PreDCSSoundBoardC38NotStuffed.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C38 is not stuffed on some pre-DCS sound boards.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The pre-DCS sound board uses 47µF capacitors as filters in the sound circuit; C15, C36, and C38. If one or more of these caps fail, certain sounds may not be as loud or as clear as intended. The game will just sound &amp;quot;off&amp;quot; with perhaps slightly unbalanced sounds. An amazingly high percentage of these caps fail. It is recommended that if your sounds are a bit &amp;quot;off&amp;quot; that you replace all of these caps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; as shown at left, C38 is sometimes not stuffed at the factory. It appears that audio channel 1 and channel 2 (in C38s path) from the Yamaha YM3012 are redundant, making the this cap unnecessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear = all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:preDCSSoundBoardCapComparison.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C49, implemented in two different ways on the pre-DCS sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Also, some pre-DCS sound boards looked to have been &amp;quot;hacked&amp;quot; to add a ceramic capacitor just below the clock crystal X1. This is not in fact a hack. It appears to &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the omission of C49 on some versions of the PCB. C49 is located at the edge of the board, just above the crystal.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear = all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Popping, Scratchy Sound, Very Hot LM1875 Heat Sink, or Shorted Speakers=====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, the tantalum/ceramic caps in the amp circuit fail too. This can result in too much AC &amp;quot;ripple&amp;quot; feeding the amp as well as DC output to the speakers, which they do not like. The following components are all suspect...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*C20 (10µF, 20V tantalum)&lt;br /&gt;
*C46 and C47 (both 1µF, 35V tantalum)&lt;br /&gt;
*C22 (22µF, 35v electrolytic) &lt;br /&gt;
*C23 (.22µF, 10V, ceramic)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Normally, the positive side of the tantalum cap at C26 will measure about 50mv of AC referenced to game ground. Anything more indicates a problem with these tantalum caps. You will also be able to measure DC voltage across the speaker outputs. There should normally be no DC voltage across the speaker outputs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The LM1875 may also run very hot. Normally, you can grasp the heat sink without burning your hand. It will be hot, but not so hot that you can not squeeze it or grasp it very long. &#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; this assumes that the volume is set to about 8. Setting the volume to 18 will require the heat sink to dissipate more heat. The heat sink will be too hot to grasp (for very long). If at &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; volume levels and the heat sink is so hot that you can not grip it, failing tantalum caps should be suspected. If after replacing the tantalum caps the popping and scratchiness persist, the LM1875 amp may have been damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume Not Adjustable and/or Stuck at Low Volume=====&lt;br /&gt;
This problem manifests as a very low volume from the speakers, equivalent to the lowest sound level setting. The volume setting may be adjusted from the coin door, and the DMD volume &amp;quot;thermometer&amp;quot; will move normally, but the speaker volume will not change. While the cause of this issue could be a failed digital POT as discussed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Volume_Suddenly_at_Maximum here], a failed MC3340 electronic attenuator may also be the cause. You may be able to identify the MC3340 as the problem by comparing &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot; results with a known good MC3340. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In one such case, pins 7 and 8 of the device where shorted together, causing the symptoms described. The failed MC3340 may also have caused the amp to become very hot, but this has not been conclusively proven.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Take care to ensure the MC3340 is actually at fault as this obsolete part is pricey and hard to find.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Wrong sounds being played=====&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, this problem boils down to a communication problem between the MPU and the sound board. Possible failure points are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Ribbon cables&lt;br /&gt;
*Male header pins on both MPU and sound board&lt;br /&gt;
*74LS374 data buffer ICs on the sound board used to communicate between the MPU and the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
*Rarely, a failed 6264 RAM can cause this. The RAM is &amp;quot;tested&amp;quot; by the MPU. Sometimes it will pass the test, yet fail in game play. Odd...I know.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Volume Suddenly at Maximum=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the volume suddenly jumps to full volume and control of the volume via the coin door buttons does not work, check C18, a 47µF 35v axial electrolytic capacitor.  The blue Philips capacitors on these sound boards are prone to failure and can cause this issue if bad.  If that does not solve the problem there is a good chance that the digital POT (volume control) on the sound board has failed. The part is located at U5 and is an X9503. The X9503 is obsolete but it&#039;s successor the X9C503 works fine here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Blown 1uF or 10uF Tantalum Capacitor=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCpreDCSBlownTantalumCap.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C46 blew up and burned quite spectacularly on this pre-DCS sound board.]][[Image:Wpc_pre-dcs_cap-failure-c28.jpg|200px|thumb|right|C28 failed on this pre-DCS sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The pre-DCS sound board uses 1uf tantalum caps in the amp circuit. Sometimes, for no good reason than simply being old, one of these caps will explode and burst into flames at game power on. C46 on the board shown at left did just that. In the great majority of instances, simply replacing the cap returns the board to service. This &amp;quot;burning into flames&amp;quot; can also happen to the +12V and -12V section with C26 and C28.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the 1uF tantalum at C27 or C29 shorts internaly, it will cause the +12V or -12V to disapear. The LM7812 (U4) or LM7912 (U3) will run very hot. The tantalum draws all the current. The LM7812 and LM7912 have a limit of 1 Amp. The voltage will drop to zero when this happens, leaving the amplifier without power. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other tantalum caps have been documented to explosively fail, including C28 and C47.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A tantalum capacitor can be tested by desoldering one leg and using a DMM (in diode check) to check for a short. Simply replacing the tantalum will solve the problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A contributing factor to these explosive failures was that the voltage rating on the capacitors that were used was too close to the operating voltage running through them (undersized components were typically used as a cost saving measure). As a general rule of thumb, the operating voltage should be 50% of the voltage rating of the tantalum capacitors. So, for a 12V circuit, at least a 25V capacitor should be used; a 50V minimum rating would be better.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All the tantalum capacitors used on the pre-DCS sound board are below:&lt;br /&gt;
* C20,C21: 10uF axial tantalum capacitor (original rating was 10V; use at least 35v instead).&lt;br /&gt;
* C26,C27,C28,C29,C37,C46,C47,C48: 1uF axial tantalum capacitor (original rating was 35V; use at least 50v instead).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the tapered end is the positive side and also has a &amp;quot;+&amp;quot; symbol near it (however, with a burnt part, this might be impossible to see). Since the board was not silkscreened with any indications of component polarity, make note of the direction on the original part before removing it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Wpc_pre-dcs_tantalum-cap-polarity.jpg|250px|thumb|center|Diagram showing the tantalum capacitor locations and polarity]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After replacing one blown tantalum capacitor, it is possible that a second power up might blow a different one. Therefore, it might be a good idea to preemptively replace all the tantalum capacitors, especially if one has already experienced an explosive failure.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Is Very Faint Even at Maximum Volume (CVSD Failure)=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:55536-CVSD.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Two hard to find 55536 CVSD ICs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
While most techs would suspect either a TL082 or a TL084 amplifier (on a pre-DCS sound board) or a 1458 amplifier (on a System 11 MPU) as the cause of this issue, the 55516/55532/55536/55564 CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta-Modulator) can also cause this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isolation to the CVSD is pretty simple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into sound test.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use an oscilloscope to probe pins 9 and 12. A scope must be used since the signals are too subtle for a logic probe to detect.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 9 is a clock signal. &lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 12 is a data signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the game is making sounds that use the CVSD (generally voice calls), both pin 9 and pin 12 should show &amp;quot;off nominal&amp;quot; signals. If the CVSD is working correctly, the output at pin 3 should be showing signal also. If pin 3 is not showing signal, then the CVSD has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:CVSDReplacementFront.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot; used to replace the 55536 CVSD (front).]][[Image:CVSDReplacementBack.jpg|200px|thumb|right|A &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot; used to replace the 55536 CVSD (rear).]]&lt;br /&gt;
During the run of the pre-DCS sound board, it is suspected that the 55536 CVSD part (and it&#039;s close cousins) was becoming hard/expensive to acquire. Williams created a &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot; to use in lieu of the CVSD. The daughter card used an MC3417 CVSD along with additional &amp;quot;tuning&amp;quot; resistors and capacitors. The sound quality result is indistinguishable from a 55536. Williams used a closed frame machine pin socket to accept the daughter card. The &amp;quot;chip notch&amp;quot; should be oriented just as you would the CVSD. That is, more of the card will be south of the chip socket than north of it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While it might seem like a good idea to duplicate the design of this Williams card (part number 5768-14714-00) to replace the even harder to find 55536, the main part used, the MC3417, is equally hard to find today.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jeri Ellsworth reverse engineered the 55564 (55536 equivalent) and posted [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FRGwuxFDE4 this video] in October, 2011. She makes it seem &amp;quot;intuitively obvious to even the most casual observer&amp;quot;...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====DCS Sound Board Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DCS sound board was used in 18 games including:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Indiana Jones: the Pinball Adventure&lt;br /&gt;
*Judge Dredd&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Trek: The Next Generation&lt;br /&gt;
*Demolition Man&lt;br /&gt;
*Popeye Saves the Earth&lt;br /&gt;
*World Cup Soccer&lt;br /&gt;
*The Pinball Circus&lt;br /&gt;
*The Flintstones&lt;br /&gt;
*Corvette&lt;br /&gt;
*Red &amp;amp; Ted&#039;s Road Show&lt;br /&gt;
*The Shadow&lt;br /&gt;
*Dirty Harry&lt;br /&gt;
*Theatre of Magic&lt;br /&gt;
*No Fear: Dangerous Sports&lt;br /&gt;
*Indianapolis 500&lt;br /&gt;
*Johnny Mnemonic&lt;br /&gt;
*WHO Dunnit&lt;br /&gt;
*Jack*Bot&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Power on Sound Tones (Bongs) =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a successful boot, the game should make a single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; sound. The game provides a sound board problem indication with the following number of bongs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DCS Sound Board Games.&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - U2 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - U3 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - U4 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - U5 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - U6 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - U7 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*8 - U8 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*9 - U9 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*Note - DCS sound board RAM failures are indicated by a message on the display, &amp;quot;U10-U12 RAM error&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Very Loud Humming at Power On=====&lt;br /&gt;
The DCS sound board uses two 10,000µF caps at location C20 and C21 to smooth rectified AC power. The negative side of C21 and the positive side of C20 are connected to analog ground at header J4, pins 6 and 7. This connection is fragile. If the game hums really loudly, immediately at power on, test for continuity between these points as shown in the pictures below. Often this loud hum is diagnosed as a failing cap when the real problem is simply a fractured trace. If the caps have been replaced previously, there is a good chance that the PCB through holes have been damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;DCS Sound Board Filter Capacitor Connections. Continuity is shown as a zero ohm connection.&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DCSCapThroughHoleBungled.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The remains of through holes heinously ripped from a DCS sound board PCB. These &amp;quot;brown donuts&amp;quot; are still attached to the 10,000uf filter capacitor.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DCSCapConnection1.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The first of two tests ensuring continuity between the filter capacitors and analog ground.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DCSCapConnection2.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The second of two tests ensuring continuity between the filter capacitors and analog ground.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ram Error=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Replacement RAM ICs for the DCS sound board are becoming harder to find. The board uses three 2K skinny dip 6116 cache rams with an access time of 35nS or better. These are obsolete and long gone. The good news is that the board has jumpers for 6264 type 8K cache rams. Jumper W4 is installed for 2K rams. Jumper W4 should be removed and jumper W5 installed to use 8K rams. All RAM ICs need to be replaced at the same time for this configuration to work. A relatively inexpensive, and still in production replacement, is the IDT 7164S20TPG.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====  Muffled Sound and Speech/No Sound =====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DCSSoundBoardCaps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C32 and C41, both electrolytic caps, are in series in the sound amplification circuit of the DCS sound board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Muffled audio can be caused by two 1uf/63V electrolytic capacitors that are in series with the audio path for each amplifier. Simply replacing them may clean up the audio. A typical 1uf/50V axial electrolytic capacitor will work fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is also possible that if one of these capacitors fails completely open, you will get no sound at all out of that capacitor&#039;s respective channel since these capacitors are in series in the voltage in line to the amplifiers (C32 for the cabinet speaker and C41 for the backbox speakers.) Replacing the appropriate capacitor can restore sound to the silenced channel.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Scratchy Audio or mumbled speech =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DCSSoundBoardCeramicCaps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C37 and C45, both ceramic caps, sometimes cause scratchy audio.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During production of WPC-95 games, Williams removed two small ceramic caps (C47 and C51) from the A/V board to clean up the sound. This fix can also be applied to the DCS sound board. On the DCS board C37 and C45 are the equivalent caps to be removed. Simply clip the caps from the board. You do not need to desolder them. This cleans up the sound and speech on some games like Demo Man quite well.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====WPC-95 A/V Board Sound Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 A/V Board was introduced, along with the WPC-95 system, with Congo and was used through the end of the WPC game system run (Cactus Canyon).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always check the speaker connections to the A/V board (J504 and J505) and the wiring at the speakers before assuming there is a problem with the board.  The speakers themselves can go bad; you can do a quick &amp;quot;click test&amp;quot; with a D-cell battery and a set of jumper leads to rule out dead speakers.  Disconnect the speaker connections at the A/V board and connect your battery jumper leads to the pairs of wires in the J504 and J505 connectors; you should hear a click from the speaker if it is good.  If you don&#039;t hear the click try the connection at the speaker itself to rule out wiring issues.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The analog output of the A/V board feeds into a TLO84 op-amp (U1) that is configured as a pair of low-pass and high-pass filters; these are used to separate the low-frequency sounds (destined for the cabinet speaker) and the high-frequency sounds (destined for the back box speakers).  These two channels - signified on the schematic as AUDIO_R (cabinet) and AUDIO_L (back box) feed into a pair of TDA2030AV amplifiers; U5 drives the back box speakers and U6 drives the cabinet speaker.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The outputs of U1B and U1C (pins 7 &amp;amp; 8) can be briefly connected with a jumper lead to help narrow down issues when one of the two channels is not working or has weak/distorted output.  When the two pins are jumpered you should be able to hear approximately the same level of sound from the cabinet and back box speakers.  (Use the T.7 diagnostic test to play sound clips for the game during your testing.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== On Board Voltage Regulation =====&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC-95 A/V Board &amp;quot;digital&amp;quot; side is powered by the same 5VDC that is regulated by the power/driver board. The &amp;quot;analog&amp;quot; side of the A/V board, specifically the two TL084s and the AD1851 D-to-A converter, all use +5VDC and -5VDC that is regulated by the 78L05 and 79L05 respectively. Four rectifying diodes provide about +/- 17VDC to these regulators. If the sound is low or scratchy, check these two voltages first. Both +5VDC and -5VDC can be easily measured at pins 4 and 11 of either TL084.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Power on Sound Tones (Bongs) =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a successful boot, the game should make a single &amp;quot;bong&amp;quot; sound. The game provides a sound board problem indication with the following number of bongs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Audio/Video Board Games (WPC-95).&lt;br /&gt;
*1 - No issues...enjoy a game.&lt;br /&gt;
*2 - S2 ROM failure. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Two bongs also occur if jumper W3 is IN on the MPU board, and the installed RAM size is 6264. If an NVRAM was just installed, check this jumper. See the section on [[Williams_WPC#Jumpers.2C_RAM_and_ROM_size | jumpers]].&lt;br /&gt;
*3 - S3 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*4 - S4 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*5 - S5 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*6 - S6 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*7 - S7 ROM failure.&lt;br /&gt;
*10 - U9, U10, or U11 RAM failure (see below)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95U9-U11Error.jpg|200px|thumb|left|WPC-95 boot time RAM error message, accompanied by 10 very annoying bongs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95U10U12Message.jpg|200px|thumb|right|WPC-95 boot time RAM error message, accompanied by 10 very annoying bongs.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A/V sound board RAM failures are indicated by a message on the display, either &amp;quot;U9-U11 RAM error&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;U10-U12 RAM error&amp;quot;. This is apparently game software dependent. A/V RAM are, in fact, U9-U11. Apparently, this message wasn&#039;t updated in some of the software with the introduction of the A/V board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Loss of One Channel =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC95AVBoardSoundIssue.jpg|200px|thumb|left|C38 and C39, which can cause loss of a single channel]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If one channel is out or weak/distorted try the jumper at U1 pins 7 &amp;amp; 8 noted above.  If no change is detected in the sound output it is likely the associated TDA2030AV amplifier (U5 or U6) has failed.  Before replacing the amplifier jumper a 1 MFD 63 volt capacitor across C38 and C39 in turn (observe polarity!) to rule out a defective coupling capacitor.  If jumpering pins 7 &amp;amp; 8 of U1 significantly improves the sound levels it is likely that U1 itself has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Scratchy Audio =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AVBoardCapsRemoved.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A later production Williams WPC-95 AV Board, with C47 and C51 intentionally unstuffed at the factory]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Williams removed two small ceramic caps (C47, C51, pictured at left) later in the production run of AV boards. If your game&#039;s audio is just a bit scratchy, and these caps have not been removed, you may be able to improve audio quality by removing them. Simply clip both sides of the cap. There is no real need to desolder them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Really Loud buzzing sound for a second or two =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your game sometimes produces a really loud buzzing sound at random, check the version of your S2 sound rom. This problem was fixed with the latest S2 sound ROM for Attack from Mars, Congo, Safe Cracker and Tales of the Arabian Nights. Scared Stiff might also be affected but no version history for sound 1.1 exists for this game. Later games are not affected.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In most instances, an inexperienced tech will immediately blame the flipper coil itself for weak or non-functioning flippers.  It is logical to blame the coil for the source of the problem.  The flipper coil is, after all, the end reason why a flipper becomes engaged.  However, its failure is the least probable reason that a flipper is not working.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper does not work====&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, you&#039;ve started a game, you press the flipper cabinet switch, and nothing happens.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing to do is inspect the wire connections to the flipper coil lugs.  The most common reason a WPC flipper does not function is that either one of the wires broke from the game to the lug, or one of the coil winding wires, has broken away from the coil lug and is no longer connected to the coil. This is a pretty simple fix. Make a clean cut to the wire, strip or sand 1/4&amp;quot; to 3/8&amp;quot; of insulation back, and make a nice solder joint on the coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPC95FlipperSpadeConnectors.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A good reason to nip spade connectors off and solder directly to the coil lug. This spade connector simply &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;fell off&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; the coil lug. Luckily, it didn&#039;t come to rest on an adjacent lug.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some WPC-95 titles used &amp;quot;spade connectors&amp;quot; (also known as FASTON connectors) to attach wires to the coil lugs. This was done for ease of manufacture and for that reason only. Similar to a wire breaking free, these spade connectors sometimes do not provide a solid connection and sometimes simply fall off. In that case, cut the spade connector off and solder the wire directly to the coil lug. This makes a much better connection that is also much more reliable. Should a spade connector fall onto an adjacent coil lug, it&#039;s very possible that a short circuit will be created, possibly damaging the FlipTronics board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Mechanical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple of mechanical reasons a flipper may not be working, including:&lt;br /&gt;
*Broken flipper link&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper crank not &amp;quot;biting&amp;quot; flipper shaft (this would most likely manifest as a flipper that continues to move backwards, out of adjustment)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Simple inspection of the flipper mechanism should guide your corrective actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pre-FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Failed flipper power supply - make sure that DC flipper power is present at the coil using your DMM. Place the red lead on a coil lug, the black lead on game ground (siderail or ground braid anywhere in the game). You should read about 70VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper cabinet switch not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; or fouled so badly that it doesn&#039;t conduct flipper power&lt;br /&gt;
*Fouled or missing flipper end-of-stroke switch. Pre-FlipTronics games relied on EOS switches in the same way that older games do. That is, power is routed to the power stroke winding of the coil via the EOS switch. If the EOS switch is fouled, only the hold winding will receive power; perhaps inadequate to move the flipper at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Failed flipper power supply. Flipper power originates at the transformer. It is routed through the power/driver board (which does nothing to it) and then to the FlipTronics board. The FlipTronics board rectifies the AC power via an onboard bridge rectifier. Power may be interrupted anywhere along this path, including a failed bridge rectifier or blown fuse.&lt;br /&gt;
*Failed flipper coil &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; winding&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper cabinet switch not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; or flipper opto board not working&lt;br /&gt;
*Damaged connection between flipper cabinet switch and FlipTronics board&lt;br /&gt;
*FlipTronics board not recognizing flipper cabinet button switch closure&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MissingPinFlipTronics.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A missing pin in the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;FlipTonics-to-MPU interface&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;. The missing pin prevented transmission of the F8 signal (D7), which is the upper left flipper switch closed signal.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An unusual reason for the flipper switch closure signal not being sent to the MPU is shown at left.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Failed logic path on the FlipTronics board including the transistors. See: [[Williams_WPC#WPC_FlipTronics_I_.26_II_Boards| WPC FlipTronics I and II Boards]] for a description of the signal path.&lt;br /&gt;
*Improperly seated or failed ribbon connectors between MPU and FlipTronics board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper is weak====&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, the flipper makes a stroke, but it&#039;s a weak stroke, not striking the ball with normal force.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Mechanical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Not enough vertical movement in flipper bat (crank tightened too close to bushing)&lt;br /&gt;
*Cracked, broken or egged flipper bushing&lt;br /&gt;
*Mushroomed coil stop and plunger (replace coil sleeve too)&lt;br /&gt;
*Missing link bushing or oval link &amp;quot;eyelet&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
*Tired flipper crank (will not tighten on bat shaft)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC Flipper Link Plunger.JPG|thumb|left|200px|An Example of an Egged Flipper Link and Mushroomed Flipper Plunger - Lower Link and Plunger Shown in Picture is new]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pre-FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper cabinet switch not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; or fouled so badly that it does not conduct&lt;br /&gt;
*Failed flipper end-of-stroke switch&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Dirty flipper cabinet switch optos&lt;br /&gt;
*Power stroke winding of coil failed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flipper locks on or fails to fall to resting position====&lt;br /&gt;
In this case, the flipper locks in the up position, either at game power on or when the flipper cabinet switch is pressed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Mechanical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pre-FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====FlipTronics Games Electrical Reasons=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper cabinet switch opto interupter not returning to proper at rest position&lt;br /&gt;
*Sticky flipper buttons, which can lead to opto interupter not returning to at rest position.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Fodder (may be useful to complete this section)=====&lt;br /&gt;
*Fouled or broken &amp;quot;normally closed&amp;quot; EOS switch&lt;br /&gt;
*Fouled or broken flipper cabinet switch&lt;br /&gt;
*Flipper relay not enabled&lt;br /&gt;
*Fouled / dirty or non-functioning flipper opto switches&lt;br /&gt;
*Upper flipper switch closures in switch test, when there aren&#039;t any upper flippers on game&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
===Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
====MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;quot;Ewe 22&amp;quot; Security PIC chip replacement for WPC-S/WPC-95: http://www.shiftedbit.com/products.htm&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
Since WPC games are overwhelmingly the most popular pinball titles at the moment, and there are a vast amount of titles with so many game specific issues, please refer to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_List Game List] section of this guide.  Click on the specific game, and a new page will open regarding repair logs and game specific problems and fixes for that particular game title.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== World Cup Soccer locks on Right Sling and both Left and Right Kickout Holes at Power On ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCDriverBoardKeying.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Board layout diagram showing identical connector and keying at J124, J128, and J132)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:WPCJ124J128Keying.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Image showing identical connector and keying at J124, J128, and J132)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;Problem&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Upon power on, and with the coin door closed (defeating the high voltage interlock switch), the right slingshot as well as the left and right saucer kickout hole coils lock on. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;Cause&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The flash lamp drive connector that should be connected to J124 is instead connected to J128.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;Discussion&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Connecting the female plug to the wrong header pins is entirely possible since the connectors are the same width and are keyed identically. In World Cup Soccer (at least), the wire bundle is long enough to be connected (properly) to J124 or (improperly) to J128 or J132.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===S2 Sound ROM Failure on WPC-95 After a Successful Boot===&lt;br /&gt;
If game is turned on and has a successful boot, but after a few minutes, the game bongs twice indicating an S2 sound ROM failure and becomes unresponsive, try reseating the ASIC chip on the MPU. Make sure to use the proper removal tool, rather than a screwdriver--an improper tool will damage the chip.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80&amp;diff=20619</id>
		<title>Gottlieb System 80</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80&amp;diff=20619"/>
		<updated>2020-11-30T01:46:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Sound and Speech Board Operation */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Gottlieb_Repair_Guides | Gottlieb® solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 1st gen boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Set - 1st Generation ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
			&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb&#039;s® second generation of solid state pinballs is System 80.  Capabilities were increased in terms of controllable lamps, solenoids, gameplay, and sound.  No longer tied to an EM-esque platform, Gottlieb® started to introduce games with more unconventional asymmetric playfields.  System 80 marked a foray into double and triple level playfields, speech, and multiball. Unfortunately, it also represented a lateral step in reliability, with battery corrosion, connectors, and bad grounding plaguing the design.  Nearly all the same issues as were present with the System 1 platform.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
			&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80cabinet.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Set - 2nd Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the System 1 games, the System 80 / 80A / 80B design relied solely on connectors and daisy-chained wiring to transport the ground lines from board to board. The exception is that the large ground plane used with System 1 games was no longer used behind the boards with the System 80 games. Gottlieb® still opted to use plastic standoffs to elevate and secure the boards to the backbox or the back side of the lamp box insert. Thus, if a single ground connector failed in the chain, the logic ground could fail for one or several of the circuit boards. This could potentially lead to locked on coils, relays, and / or controlled lamps. In turn, transistors and chips would fail.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Later gtb sys80a boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Board Set]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 platform was used for a total of nine years from 1980-1989.  During this period, there were three main versions of the boardset.  These three versions are referred to as: System 80, System 80A, and System 80B.  System 80 was used from 1980-1982, System 80A was used from 1982-1985, and System 80B was used from 1985-1989.  The easiest way to differentiate between the three versions is by looking at the style of displays which were used.  System 80 used 6-digit displays for scoring, and in some instances, for bonus values or timers.  System 80A used 7-digit displays for scoring, and 6-digit displays for bonus values or timers too.  Both the 6-digit and 7-digit displays were limited to displaying numeric values.  System 80B differed the most by using two 20-digit alpha-numeric displays, which were stacked on top of each other.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Early gtb sys80b boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Early]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shortly after the onset of using the System 80B boardset, it was evident that the complexity of playfield designs had quickly outgrown the boardset.  Remote satellite boards, and transistors littered the underside of the playfield and inside the cabinet, because the driver board was too undersized to handle these extra duties.  A new boardset, known as the System 3 platform, was under development, but was not released until nearly 4 years later in 1990.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
	 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Typical gtb sys80b boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Typical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Later 80B Backbox.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Later Games (Hot Shots, Bad Girls, and Big House]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once a System 80 / 80A / 80B game has been methodically gone through with board design grounding flaws and connectors corrected, they are just as reliable as any of their contemporaries.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 1st Generation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Amazing Spiderman|| 05-1980 || 7625 || 653 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Panthera|| 06-1980 || 5220 || 652 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||   6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Circus|| 06-1980 || 1700 || 654 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit || Ultra Widebody &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Counterforce|| 06-1980 || 3870 || 656 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||   6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Race|| 08-1980 || 870 || 657 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit || Ultra Widebody  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 2nd Generation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Sound&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|James Bond|| 10-1980 || 3625 || 658 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Time Line|| 12-1980 || 3167 || 659 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Force II|| 12-1981 || 2000 || 661 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pink Panther|| 03-1981 || 2840 || 664 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mars God of War|| 03-1981 || 5240 || 666 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || First Gottlieb® with speech, lane change, and multi-ball&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano|| 09-1981 || 3655 || 667 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || Export games used [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Hole]]|| 10-1981 || 8774 || 668 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || First Gottlieb® with 2-Level playing area, Export games used [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board and a simple single backglass with no spinning disc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Haunted House|| 06-1982|| 6835 || 669 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 6-digit || First game with 3-Level playing area, Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board w/o the speech chip installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Eclipse|| 1982 || 193 || 671 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit || Production game and available as a kit for James Bond 007 &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Devil&#039;s Dare|| 08-1982 || 3832 || 670 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || Export games used the [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Caveman]]|| 09-1982 || 1800 || PV810 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || Pinball / Video game hybrid &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky|| 09-1982 || 1504 || 672 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spirit|| 11-1982 || 1230 || 673 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Punk!|| 12-1982 || 959 || 674 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Striker|| 11-1982 || 910 || 675 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Krull|| 02-1983 || 10 || 676 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Goin&#039; Nuts|| 02-1983|| 10 || 682 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Q*bert&#039;s Quest|| 03-1983 || 884 || 677 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Super Orbit|| 05-1983 || 2100 || 680 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Royal Flush Deluxe|| 06-1983 || 2000 || 681 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Amazon Hunt]]|| 09-1983 || 1515 || 684 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]] or [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board. Later production games used the [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|sound only]] piggyback sound board &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rack &#039;Em Up!|| 11-1983 || 1762 || 685 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Ready... Aim... Fire!|| 11-1983 || 390 || 686 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jacks to Open|| 05-1984 || 2350 || 687 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alien Star|| 06-1984 || 1065 || 689 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || 689A Denotes a revision in the ROM code&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Games|| 08-1984|| 1768 || 691 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Touchdown|| 10-1984 || 711 || 688 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|El Dorado City of Gold|| 09-1984 || 905 || 692 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Ice Fever|| 02-1985 || 1585 || 695 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Chicago Cubs Triple Play|| 05-1985 || ~1365 || 696 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bounty Hunter|| 07-1985 || 1220 || 694 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tag Team Pinball|| 09-1985 || 1220 || 698 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] ||  Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock|| 10-1985 || 1875 || 697 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 || DIP switches 7 and 8, while listed as &amp;quot;spares&amp;quot;, 7 is actually used to turn attract sounds on / off.  There is an addendum added to the first page of the manual stating as such.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Raven|| 03-1986 || 3550 || 702 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock Encore|| 04-1986 || 245 || 704 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||Production game using same playfield art as Rock, but mainly available as a conversion kit for Rock&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hollywood Heat|| 06-1986 || 3400 || 703 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| 09-1986 || 3500 || 705 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| 10-1986 || 3260 || 707 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| 04-1987 || 3550 || 706 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| 02-1987 || 4315 || 708 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]||  Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Arena|| 06-1987 || 3099 || 709 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]||Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| 10-1987 || 3315 || 710 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diamond Lady|| 02-1988 || 2700 || 711 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|TX Sector|| 03-1988 || 2336 || 712 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| 04-1988 || 2130 || 714 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Excalibur|| 11-1988 || 1710 || 715 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||Start of the MA-1133 CPU Board. No actual speech callouts are present in this game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| 11-1988 || 2500 || 717 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big House|| 04-1989 || 1977 || 713 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Shots|| 04-1989 || 2342 || 718 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters Inc.|| 08-1989 || 2000 || 719 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 || Uses 3 sound boards - uses 50v to power flippers &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release, production numbers, and model number provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Recommended Documentation===&lt;br /&gt;
====Manuals====&lt;br /&gt;
* A game manual.  Pinball Resource has many factory originals still left, and reprints of everything else.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Repair Guides====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gottlieb Star Series 80 Service Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Gottlieb-star-series-80-service-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]][[file:Gottlieb-star-series-80-service-manual-cover-alt.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Information on how system 80 operates, with troubleshooting information outlined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1983 Technical Seminar Workbook&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Information on how system 80 operates, with troubleshooting information outlined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parts Catalogs====&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; schematics, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Gottlieb tended to publish a lot of game-specific information in parts catalogs. These have exploded diagrams of assemblies, particularly in earlier games that had the thinner, much less helpful manuals. Playfield parts, lamps, and switches are all diagrammed out. These also have collected service bulletins. Reprints are available from Pinball Resource.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1982 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1982-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Counter Force, Star Race, James Bond, Time Line, Force II, Pink Panther, Mars God Of War, Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, Caveman, Rocky. This catalog also features system 1 games.&lt;br /&gt;
|Includes parts assemblies, plus switch matrix and controlled lamp locations, board layouts, schematics, and board parts lists, coin door parts, and some cabinet parts. Includes System 1 and 80 parts and boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1987 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1987-parts-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, Rocky, Spirit, Rock, Striker, Q*bert&#039;s Quest, Super Orbit, Royal Flush, Amazon Hunt, Rack &#039;Em Up, The Games, Chicago Cubs Triple Play, Rock Encore, Ready Aim Fire, Touchdown, Bounty Hunter, Raven, Jacks To Open, El Dorado City Of Gold, Tag Team, Hollywood Heat, Alien Star, Ice Fever, Rock, Genesis&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1992 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1992-parts-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Covers 80B games starting from Gold Wings and the first 9 System 3 titles (games #706-#730).&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One interesting note about the part numbers is that the single letter that preceded the number indicated the size of the paper that was used for the original drawing/blueprint of the part. Paper sizes A up through F were used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connector Designations===&lt;br /&gt;
All Gottlieb® machines have a common naming convention for all of the connectors in the game.  A specific connection uses two parts - a prefix and a suffix.  The prefix is the board number or an inline wire junction, and the suffix is the connection on the board or a sequential wire junction number.  When referencing a specific connector pin within a housing, a dash follows the connection number.  For example, the connector pin for the slam switch signal on the CPU board is A1J5-10.  The coin door connection used on Devil&#039;s Dare is A15P1 and A15J1 - the connector pin for switch return 7 on the coin door is A15J1-8.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following boards are assigned the same numbers throughout the System 80 / 80A / 80B platforms.&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU Board - A1&lt;br /&gt;
*Power Supply - A2&lt;br /&gt;
*Driver Board - A3&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound Board - A6&lt;br /&gt;
*Pop Bumper Driver Boards - A8&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset Board - A24&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are several other board designations used, however, they change from game to game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Wiring Color Code===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unlike every other pinball manufacturer, which adopted a two-color wiring code system, Gottlieb® used three colors.  Most wiring in a Gottlieb® game used a white base color, which is the wire&#039;s insulation color, and three &amp;quot;striped&amp;quot; traces on each wire.  I state most cases, because there are some wires which only used two colors - the green insulated ground lines which have a single yellow trace, or only one color - the white ground wires used in System 80B games with no trace at all.  Below is the Gottlieb® color chart.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!0&lt;br /&gt;
!1&lt;br /&gt;
!2&lt;br /&gt;
!3&lt;br /&gt;
!4&lt;br /&gt;
!5&lt;br /&gt;
!6&lt;br /&gt;
!7&lt;br /&gt;
!8&lt;br /&gt;
!9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Color || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Black&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#A52A2A&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Brown &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FFA500&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Orange &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#800080&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Purple &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#808080&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Gray &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; White &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
Does the color chart look familiar?  Well, if you have an electronics background, it should.  The Gottlieb® wire code system is the same as the resistor color coding system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some examples of the color coding system.  The color wire code for switch strobe line 0 is 400.  400 would be a white insulated wire with a yellow trace and two black traces, or commonly referred to as a yellow-black-black wire.  The ground lines in early System 80 games are code 54.  54 would be a green insulated wire with one yellow trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is one word of caution, which should be pointed out.  If the connections on A1J2 and A1J3 are being replaced, there are wire colors on these connections which are very similar.  Although each wire is located on a different housing, please proceed with caution, as it can be difficult to see all three traces without spinning the wire around.  The wires which come to mind are 344 and 677 on A1J2, and 433 and 766 on A1J3.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Wire Coloring====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80A1J6SwitchMatrixWireColors.png|right|thumb|500px|Gottlieb® System 80 Switch Matrix Wire Coloring at Connector A1J6. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Illustration provided with permission of Sascha Voskuil aka Zaza.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
Wire colors used for the switch matrix, as connected to A1J6 on the MPU, were identical across all Gottlieb System 80/80A/80B games. They are, from pin 1 to 19, and right-to-left &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(backwards)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; as you view the front of the connector as installed on the MPU...&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-black-black&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-brown-brown&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-red-red&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-orange-orange&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-yellow-yellow&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-green-green&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-blue-blue&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-purple-purple&lt;br /&gt;
#white (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-black-black&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-brown-brown&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-red-red&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-orange-orange&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-yellow-yellow&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-green-green&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-blue-blue&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-purple-purple&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-slate-slate (+5VDC)&lt;br /&gt;
#empty&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; that not all games use all rows and/or all columns of the switch matrix. Unused switch matrix circuits are left wired.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Switch Numbering====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 switch matrix.png|left|thumb|600px|Gottlieb® System 80 Switch Matrix]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A / 80B switch matrix consists of a maximum of 64 switches.  There are a total of 8 switch strobes and 8 switch returns. However, not every switch in the matrix is used on every System 80 game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the System 1 switch numbering system, the System 80 switch numbers have a similar naming convention.  Except, the System 80 switch numbering system is the opposite of System 1.  If you are accustomed to working on System 1 games, pay close attention.  With Gottlieb® System 80 switches the first number of the switch is its strobe number, while the second number is switch&#039;s return number.  An example would be switch 54.  Switch 54 is located on strobe 5 and return 4 of the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 0&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-1 / A1J5-2)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 1&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-2 / A1J5-3)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 2&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-3 / A1J5-4)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 3&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-4 / A1J5-5)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-5 / A1J5-6)&lt;br /&gt;
! Strobe 5&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-6 / A1J5-7)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 6&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-7)&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 7&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-8 / A1J5-9)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 0 (A1J6-10)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 10&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 20&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 30&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 40&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 50&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 60&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 70&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 1 (A1J6-11)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 11&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 21&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 31&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 41&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 51&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 61&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 71&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 2 (A1J6-12)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 02&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 12&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 22&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 32&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 42&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 52&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 62&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 72&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 3 (A1J6-13)&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 03&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 13&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 26&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 33&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 43&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 53&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 63&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 73&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 4 (A1J6-14)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 04&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 14&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 24&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 34&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 44&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 54&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 64&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 74&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 5 (A1J6-15)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 05&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 15&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 25&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 35&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 45&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 55&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 65&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 75&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 6&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-16 / A1J5-8)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 06&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 16&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 26&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 36&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 46&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 56&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 66&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 76&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 7&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-17 / A1J5-1)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 07&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 17&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 27&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 37&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 47&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 57&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 67&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 77&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The &amp;quot;Missing&amp;quot; Gottlieb® System 80 Switches====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the Gottlieb® System 80 series of games, there are some switch assignments that are designated the same throughout the System 80, 80A, and 80B platforms.  These switches are typically not listed in the switch matrix portion of the manual.  You have to review the cabinet schematics, and decipher what switches use what return and strobe.  However, it appears that Gottlieb® / Premier® changed this section of the schematic starting with Excalibur or Bad Girls by no longer listing the strobes for these switches.  So, below are the &amp;quot;missing&amp;quot; switch assignments for any Sys80B.  All the info applies for Sys80 and Sys80A, except the two advance buttons, which weren&#039;t used prior to Sys80B.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;06&#039;&#039;&#039; - left advance button (Sys80B only)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;07&#039;&#039;&#039; - play / test switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039; - right advance button (Sys80B only)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;17&#039;&#039;&#039; - left coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;27&#039;&#039;&#039; - right coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;37&#039;&#039;&#039; - center coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;47&#039;&#039;&#039; - replay button&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;57&#039;&#039;&#039; - plumb bob and ball roll tilts (these have the same switch assignment as the playfield tilt switch)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Black Hole is an exception.  The switch assigned for the tilt on Black Hole is 26.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The coin door slam switch is not part of the switch matrix.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Language Selection ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only way to change the language displayed is to install the correct language ROMs. Gottlieb didn’t incorporate a “soft” method of changing language selection. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Enabling Free Play===&lt;br /&gt;
Free play options were unavailable in the original System 80/80A/80B game code. However, there are some hardware modifications that can be done, stacked switches can be added to the start/credit button, or  EPROMs with free play code can replace original PROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play EPROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
For system 80/80A, the U2/U3 PROMs can be replaced with an [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Freeplay_EN.php EPROM with free play code]. Replacing U2/U3 will require an adapter, such as the [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=140-101 module from GreatPlainsElectronics], a [http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/sys80mod.php#system custom adapter board], or the Swemmer Electornics U2/U3 Adapter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 80B, the game PROM can be replaced with an [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php EPROM with free play code].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80 Games====&lt;br /&gt;
Early Gottlieb® solid state pinball machines, prior to 1990, did not have a free play option available within the game settings.  With this simple modification, a game can be set up for free play.  First, identify the diode strip in the bottom of the cabinet.  Once the diode strip is found, locate the credit button and coin switch strobe line wires.  The wires will be located on the left of the diode strip - the non-banded side of the diodes.  Below is a list of the wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Credit button wire - Green-Yellow-Yellow&lt;br /&gt;
* Left coin switch wire - Green-Brown-Brown&lt;br /&gt;
* Center coin switch wire - Green-Orange-Orange&lt;br /&gt;
* Right coin switch wire - Green-Red-Red&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtbsys80board.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical location of System 80 diode board in cabinet]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80FreePlayJumper.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 Black Hole diode board with jumper (yellow wire) to implement free play]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder a small lead wire from the credit button wire to any of the coin switch wires.  The wires will change to different colors on the other side of the diode. You want to solder to the side of the diode (non-banded) with the color wire specified above. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make certain that the diode, credit button wire, and coin switch wire are still soldered securely to the diode strip terminal when finished.  If soldering is not an option, use a small alligator clip test lead.  Now, when the credit button is pressed, a credit will be incremented and decremented.  A game can be easily started without the need to open the coin door to trip the coin switches anymore.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that this modification does not apply to Gottlieb® System 80A and System 80B machines.  System 80A and 80B machines use diode boards with edge connections, which are typically located on the cabinet wall near the left flipper cabinet switch.  Jumpering the diodes on System 80A and 80B games do not give the intended free play results of jumpered System 80 diodes.  This is attributed to how the diode boards are physically placed differently in circuit with respect to the switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TimeLineFreePlay.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Time Line diode board with jumper (the red wire...I mean...it&#039;s a red flippin&#039; wire. You HAVE to be able to see it!) to implement free play]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left ties the center coin chute wire (Green-Orange-Orange) to the credit button wire (Green-Yellow-Yellow).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80A Games====&lt;br /&gt;
There is no method to implement free play for System 80A games at this time, other than &amp;quot;stacking&amp;quot; the credit button switch with one of the coin drop switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80B Games====&lt;br /&gt;
A System 80B game does not have a built-in free play option available, so the fallback option to add credits is usually to open the coin door and trip the coin switches. However, there are a couple of methods that can be used to avoid doing that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Free Play Diode Board Modification=====&lt;br /&gt;
Locate the diode board used for all of the coin door switches. Remove the diode board. Add a jumper between pin 4 and pin 10 of the diode board on the solder side of the board, (this can be done on the component side instead). Make certain that the jumper is soldered onto the banded side of the diodes. This jumper essentially ties the right advance button on the front of the cabinet to the center coin switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, when the right advance button is pressed, credits will be added to the game. There have not been any ill side effects observed when the right advance button is pressed while scrolling through characters used to enter high score initials.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An alternative method that achieves the same result is to use a jumper wire with minigrabber ends and clip them on to the bottom of the 4th and 9th diodes (from the right) on the front of the board. This requires no soldering and you don&#039;t even have to remove the diode board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The jumper modification should work on games from Chicago Cubs Triple Play to Excalibur. It is unconfirmed if it will work on Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Bone Busters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400 class=center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board.JPG|Typical location of System 80B diode board on cabinet wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added.JPG|Added jumper to back of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Location_Front.JPG|Location to add jumper to front of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added_To_Front.JPG|Added minigrabber jumper to front of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Free Play ROM=====&lt;br /&gt;
Another option is a free play ROM, produced by a group of kindly fellows in France. By burning the revised image into a 2764, and installing the new ROM on the daughter card, the game will now be on free play. Their implementation notices when zero credits are on the game and the credit button has been pressed. The new code then adds 20 credits to the game, and starts a game. The System 80B free play ROMs can be found [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bookkeeping &amp;amp; Diagnostics ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 test button.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Coin Door Test Button Highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To enter the bookkeeping / diagnostic mode, open the coin door and press the red momentary switch. (Note this switch has no credit function)  Depending on the particular game, the self test button may be mounted on a bracket located on the coin door or just inside the cabinet near the coin door hinge.  Upon pressing this button, the 4-digit status display used with System 80 and System 80A games will display &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; in the credit window. Pressing the self test button again will advance to the next step in the bookkeeping.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an option to bypass all of the bookkeeping functions, entering diagnostic mode directly.  To achieve this, the self test button must first be pressed.  &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; will shown on the status display.  Then, the credit / start button should be pressed once.  The status display should now show &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;. &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; is the first test in diagnostic mode.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Bookkeeping (System 80/80A)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1 - Coins thru left chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2 - Coins thru right chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3 - Coins thru center chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4 - Total plays&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5 - Total replays&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6 - Game percentage&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7 - Extra ball&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
8 - Total tilts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
9 - Total slam tilts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
10 - Number of times the HSTD has been beaten&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
11 - First high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
12 - Second high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
13 - Third high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
14 - High score to date score&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
15 - Average game time &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Diagnostics&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
16 - Lamp test&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
17 - Coil test (will cycle and display coil number of coils used in the game. Coin counter coils, if installed, are excluded)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
18 - Switch test. (99 = no fault)  You can check switch numbers by pressing them on the playfield during this step.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
19 - Display test. The displays will cycle through each digit&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
20 - Memory test. (99 = no fault)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80-7641-2Error.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 &amp;quot;7641&amp;quot; Error]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An example of a ROM image checksum error (or perhaps a ROM memory access error) displayed during test 20 is pictured at left. During test 20, if a checksum error is detected, the ROM code in U2/U3 will indicate &amp;quot;7641-X&amp;quot; in the player 1 display window, with &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; being &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; to indicate PROM 1 or &amp;quot;2&amp;quot; to indicate PROM 2. If you have followed the procedure to combine the original game ROMs into a single 2716, this error message is an indicator that the checksum of either the 1st half or the 2nd half of that ROM failed. Replace the ROM.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B uses the same process as System 80/80A to enter bookkeeping / diagnostics.  The only difference is upon pushing the self test button the first time, the top alphanumeric display will display &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;TEST MODE&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;.  Pressing the self test button again will enter bookkeeping mode, while pressing the credit / start button will enter diagnostics mode.  After entering either mode, pressing the self test button will advance through each step in the appropriate mode.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any of the tests in diagnostics can be repeated by simply pressing the credit / start button.  This applies to all versions of System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following also applies to all System 80 platforms.  To exit bookkeeping or diagnostics, the slam switch or tilt switch can be triggered.  Equally, waiting 60 seconds will reset the CPU back to attract mode. This is probably the only benefit in keeping the slam switch functional.  However, considering the sometimes strange side effects, which can arise from a maladjusted or malfunctioning slam switch, [[Gottlieb_System_80#Slam_Switch_Modification | disabling the slam switch]] would probably the better approach.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Pausing the Lamp and Solenoid Test (System 80B Only)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80B left advance.jpg|left|thumb|150px|The left advance button on a System 80B Game]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The following only applies to System 80B lamp and solenoid tests.  A little known fact is that the lamp and solenoid tests can be &amp;quot;paused&amp;quot; on a single lamp or single solenoid.  To stop whichever item is being tested during lamp or solenoid test, and repeat the test on the particular item, simply push and hold in the left advance button located on the front of the cabinet, as shown in the picture to the left.  The left advance button can then be released, pressed, and held in again to step to the next item in the test.  This is a particularly nice feature, because the lamps and solenoids or relays tend to be pulsed rather quickly in test, and cannot be observed very well, until the test repeats itself.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Rubber Ring Chart===&lt;br /&gt;
Although the Gottlieb® System 80 game manuals do list the location and part numbers for rubber rings used, some fail to list the actual rubber ring size.  Below is a handy chart, which lists the Gottlieb® rubber OEM number and its size.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Gottlieb® #&lt;br /&gt;
!Description &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14793 ||23/64&amp;quot; White Mini-Post&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15705 ||27/64&amp;quot; White Mini-Post&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10217 ||5/16&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-17493 || 7/16&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10218 || 3/4&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10219 || 1&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10220 || 1-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10221 || 2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10222 || 2-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10223 || 3&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10224 || 3-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10225 || 4&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10226 || 5&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-13151 || 3/8 x 1-1/2&amp;quot; Standard Red Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-13149 || 3/8 x 1&amp;quot; - Small Beaded Red Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-1344 || Rebound Rubber&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1872 || Shooter Tip&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===[[System 80 / 80A / 80B Board Set]]===&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking the link above will direct you to a new page showing all of the System 80/80A/80B boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 boards 3.png‎|800px|center|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===[[System 80 / 80A / 80B Satellite Boards]]===&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking the link above will direct you to a new page showing all of the System 80/80A/80B satellite boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 psu.JPG‎|180px|thumb|left|System 80 / 80A Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 psu back.JPG|140px|thumb|right|System 80 / 80A Power Supply - Showing the Large Heat Sink]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 / 80A power supply is very similar to the System 1 power supply, where as the circuit board is secured to a large &amp;quot;hot plate&amp;quot; heat sink. This style power supply is used for all System 80 and 80A games from Spiderman to Ice Fever, and is the source of the following:&lt;br /&gt;
* +5 VDC logic power&lt;br /&gt;
*+8 VDC offset voltage needed for the displays&lt;br /&gt;
*+60 VDC for the 6 or 7 digit displays&lt;br /&gt;
*+42 VDC for the status display&lt;br /&gt;
*Ground from earth ground located on the transformer panel&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unlike the System 1 power supply, the +5 VDC logic power is no longer rectified and filtered on the power supply itself.  This process is now handled by a bridge rectifier and a large filtering capacitor located on the transformer panel.  The System 80 power still employs a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crowbar_%28circuit%29 crowbar circuit] for the logic power, which protects from over-voltage situations.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although these power supplies are fairly reliable, there are some drawbacks to the design.  By incorporating a large heat sink for the PMD10K40 / 2N6059 TO-3 transistor on the board, a lot of heat is dissipated throughout the whole board.  This in turn will limit the life expectancy of the other electronic components on the board.  Equally, the heat sink must be removed in order to perform component level repairs to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply==== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A sound &amp;amp; speech board (S&amp;amp;S) is used starting with Mars God of War (MGOW).  Because of the voltages needed to drive some of the components on the S&amp;amp;S board, this secondary power supply is added to the power train.  The voltages generated from this board are:&lt;br /&gt;
*+12 VDC used for the analog inverters and voice synthesizer chip&lt;br /&gt;
*-12 VDC used for the analog inverters&lt;br /&gt;
*+30 VDC used by the sound amplifier (LM379)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 sands power1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply (1st Generation)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are two different variations of this power supply.  The first style is used only with MGOW and Volcano, and is not a printed circuit board (PCB).  The electronic components were screwed to a block of wood, which is located on the left wall of the lower cabinet.  Conducting tests and repairs to this style power supply can be awkward and difficult.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 s&amp;amp;s psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply (2nd Generation)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Black Hole, the S&amp;amp;S power supply is now on a circuit board (MA-188), which is located in the head of the game with the other circuit boards.  Even though each style of S&amp;amp;S power supply uses different components for the generation of +12 VDC, the end result is the same.  The S&amp;amp;S power supply was no longer used when Gottlieb® went a step backwards, and installed the System 80A sounds only board with the piggyback board.  This change occurred during the run of Amazon Hunt.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The generation 1 and generation 2 sound board power supplies are not pin compatible. One could be exchanged for the other by rearranging connections of a 9-pin molex connector. However, this is not recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Power Supplies====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Chicago Cubs, the Gottlieb® power train went through a bit of a face lift. The System 80B platform uses two separate boards to supply power.  This design change is mainly due to the single display board, which rectifies the high voltage on the board itself.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B +5 VDC Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The small power supply with the finned heat sink is only used to generate +5 VDC for logic power.  Although, removing the heat sink is not necessary to work on the board, this power supply has its own set of issues.  First, it does not have a crow bar circuit.  If the LM338K voltage regulator fails, and fails whereas the voltage increases drastically, it can destroy electronic components on the other circuit boards.  Secondly, it&#039;s not as bad, but heat is still dissipated throughout the board.  Third, the adjustable potentiometer (pot) on the power supply is prone to failure, due to dirt, dust, and contaminants.  Finally, it is typical for the header pins on the input and output of the board to develop cracked solder joints.  The two latter problems can easily be overcome, and will be addressed in the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Repairs_for_the_System_80B_Power_Supply_Board Recommended Repairs for the System 80B Power Supply Board] section below.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b aux psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Rock, the second power supply is added, and is referred to as the auxiliary power supply. The primary functions of this board is used to power the sound board, and amplify the audio output. This sound amplifier board is used in concert with MA-766 and MA-886 sound boards. A breakdown of the voltages supplied by the auxiliary power supply are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*-12 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
*+12 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80B-MA1017AuxPowerSupply.jpg |200px|thumb|left|System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply with .156 headers versus edge connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BoneBustersSpecificAmpBoard.jpg |200px|thumb|right|A BoneBusters Inc specific Auxiliary Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This Auxiliary Power Supply board changed with the release of Bad Girls. Edge connections were no longer used. Instead, .156&amp;quot; header pins were added to the board as shown at left. Note that the System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply board is slightly different from the System 3 Auxiliary Power Supply board. The System 80B board uses a 1K ohm, 2 watt resistor at R8. The System 3 board uses a 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistor at that location.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=347 Bone Busters Inc.] uniquely used a modified Auxiliary Power Supply board as pictured at right. A connection was made between pin 12 and the intersection of R1 and R2 to connect the audio output of the second, less populated sound board to the amplifier circuitry. A 1.8K ohm 1/4 watt resistor makes the connection while balancing the audio level from this input. No other game used pin 12 or this configuration.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 cpu divided.png‎|200px|left|thumb|Gottlieb® System 80 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 CPU board is a 6502 based microprocessor system. The 6502 microprocessor (the very same one used in the first Apple computer and the Atari 2600) executes the basic operating system contained in the masked ROMs at U2/U3.  The masked ROMs at U2 and U3 have the same code for all of the different generations of the System 80 platform.  U2 and U3 code changed with the System 80A platform.  The game code &amp;quot;personality&amp;quot; augments the basic operating system PROM(s).  Early System 80 games which used two ROMs at PROM1 and PROM2 positions were masked ROMs.  Later, when the game code could be held in a single 2716, an EPROM was used instead. Battery-backed memory for audits and adjustable game parameters is added via a 5101 256x4 bit CMOS memory at Z5. &amp;quot;Scratchpad&amp;quot; memory is contained in the three 6532 RIOTs.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Control of peripheral devices (in this case lamps, displays, solenoids, switches and sound) is accomplished via three 6532 RIOTs (RAM-I/O-Timer) at U4, U5, and U6. Each RIOT in turn controls it&#039;s own &amp;quot;subsystem&amp;quot; to drive these devices.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Switch matrix (U4)&lt;br /&gt;
*Displays (U5)&lt;br /&gt;
*Solenoids (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
*Lamps (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four generations of the System 80 board.  All of the CPU boards can be easily identified by their revision numbers notated just below the operator adjustable dip switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Using a WDC 65C02 in a System 80/80A/80B MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
Western Design Center (WDC) has reproduced the 6502 in a CMOS version designated 65C02. I works perfectly in all System 80 MPUs with one modification. Pin 36 of the 65C02 must be pulled up to Vcc (5VDC) via a 3K (or 3.3K) pull-up resistor. Pin 36 (BE) is the &amp;quot;bus enable&amp;quot; input which allows external control of the 65C02 busses. Pin 36 is unused by original 6502s and not connected to anything on System 80 MPU boards. Simply tack soldering a 3 - 3.3K resistor between pin 36 and a 5VDC trace will do the trick.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====1st Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 CPU 1st ver.JPG|240px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generation CPU is used in the first 5 System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-001&lt;br /&gt;
*DET PB03-D102-001&lt;br /&gt;
*REV B&lt;br /&gt;
This board uses two masked PROM chips for the game code.  The chips are typically labeled with the three digit game model number followed by /1 or /2, designating the game PROM position.  An example of this naming convention is shown in the pic to the left.  652/1X and 652/2X are game PROM 1 and PROM 2 for Panthera.  The &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; in this case designates a code revision.  The masked ROMs at position U2 and U3 are not socketed on this board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With some simple modifications, this board is upward compatible to use a single 2716 EPROM placed in the PROM 1 socket of the board.  With the change of U2 and U3, this board can be used in System 80A games.  The board could potentially be used in a System 80B game with many modifications, and the addition of a daughter board, however, it is not recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlySystem80MPUFactoryCutJumper.jpg|240px|thumb|left|The corrected trace layout error in the 1St generation System 80 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This generation of board has a trace layout error that was corrected by a cut and jumper which moves the trace that terminates at Z5 (5101) pin 20 from Z36 pin 10 to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 cpu front scale.png|240px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation (Front)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 cpu back scale.png|240px|thumb|right|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation (Back)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;skeletal&amp;quot;, semi-populated board scans can be very useful when having to replace or follow traces on a CPU board.  Although the scans are of the 1st generation CPU board, most areas can be used for other generation CPU boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====2nd Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Placeholder for System 80 CPU Board - 2nd Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
The second generation CPU is used in some System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-??? (check boards for the suffix)&lt;br /&gt;
*DETAIL PB03-D107-001&lt;br /&gt;
This board uses a single 2716 EPROM chip for the game code located at the PROM 1 socket position.  The chips are typically labeled with the three digit game model number.  Occasionally, the chip&#039;s game number label will be followed by /1, /2, /3, or even /4. In this case, the number following the slash is the code revision number.  An example of this naming convention is 658 /2, which is a game PROM for James Bond - code revision 2.  The masked ROMs at position U2 and U3 are not socketed on this board either.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the change of U2 and U3, this board can be used in System 80A games.  The board could potentially be used in a System 80B game with many modifications, and the addition of a daughter board, however, it again is not recommended.  The second generation CPU is backward compatible, provided a doubled up, single game PROM is used at the PROM 1 position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====3rd Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 CPU 2nd gen.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 3rd Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
The third generation CPU is used in some System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-011&lt;br /&gt;
*DETAIL PB03-D107-003&lt;br /&gt;
This board is essentially the same as the second generation board, except an eyelet ground trace was placed just above Z33 on the board.  This ground trace was never used.  All information which applies to the second generation CPU board, applies to this board.  The third generation CPU is backward compatible, provided the same is done to it as the 2nd generation board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====4th Generation CPU Board (System 80A)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80A CPU.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80A CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The fourth generation CPU is used in all System 80A games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*D 20869&lt;br /&gt;
This board is the same as the third generation board, except the U2 and U3 masked ROM chips have different code, and are now socketed.  The PROM 2 socket is no longer populated on the board.  The fourth generation CPU is backward compatible, provided the System 80 ROM code is installed at U2 and U3.  If used on a game with the 1st generation CPU, the game code must be doubled up on a 2716 EPROM, and installed at the PROM 1 position.  This board is forward compatible with System 80B, provided all of the above outlined modifications are performed.  Out of all the System 80 CPU boards, this is the most compatible with System 80B, due to using the same base circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====5th Generation CPU Board (System 80B)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80B CPU.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B CPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The fifth generation CPU is used in all System 80B games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*D 20869&lt;br /&gt;
Even though the base circuit board is identical to the fourth generation CPU board, it&#039;s being named the fifth generation board, due to all of the major changes.  The U2 and U3 masked ROM and sockets have been replaced with a piggyback daughter board soldered via header pins mounted in the U3 position.  The daughter board uses a 2764 EPROM.  Most of the related display segment and digit chips are no longer populated.  This is due to the single display board handling these functions on its own board.  The missing chips once used for the displays are Z19, Z21, Z22, Z23, Z24, and Z25. Equally, jumpers have been placed where Z19 and Z21 once resided. The fifth generation CPU is backward compatible, after the daughter board has been removed, and the missing display chips populated.  Note that there technically are two different 80B CPU boards - MA-774 and MA-1133.  The only difference between these two boards is a cut trace on the component side and a long trace wire added on the solder side from the E3 jumper to pin 35 of TC1. This modification is done to increase the ROM size of PROM 2 from a 2716 to a 2732.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Any of the Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A / 80B CPU boards are compatible cross platform.  It&#039;s just matter of how much work must be done to modify each board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====U2/U3 ROM Part Numbers====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80ROMs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80 ROMs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All Gottlieb System 80 U2/U3 ROMs will be labeled as pictured at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U2 is labeled &amp;quot;R3273-12&amp;quot; on the center line. The top line is the part number, a 2332 ROM. The bottom line is the date code, in this case, the 15th week of 1981.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U3 is labeled &amp;quot;R3272-12&amp;quot; on the center line. The top line is the part number, a 2332 ROM. The bottom line is the date code, in this case, the 12th week of 1981.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80AROMs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80A ROMs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb System 80A ROMs may be labeled in a few different ways since Gottlieb used several manufacturers to provide the ROMs. A clear indication that the ROMs are for System 80A games is that somewhere in the labeling, &amp;quot;XO-326 U2&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;XO-327 U3&amp;quot; will be shown as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 drvr pw.png|160px|thumb|left|The System 80A / 80B Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Driver board is responsible for all controlled lamps, relays, and all solenoids in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via a simple interface between A1J4 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.  Although the driver board went through some minor changes over the years, the same board can be adapted for all of the System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; total of 52 &#039;&#039;&#039;lamp circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the interface provides &amp;quot;device select&amp;quot; signals for each of the 74175s (Quad-D Flip-Flops) on the driver board, and 4 &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; of data that is loaded (or &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot;) into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives an MPS-A13 or MPS-U45 transistor, (NDS-U45 transistors were used in place of MPS-U45s in some cases). Gottlieb® did not implement a &amp;quot;lamp matrix&amp;quot; as some other manufacturers did.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that there are some dedicated lamp transistors, which control specific game relays across the System 80 / 80A platforms.  Relays such as the game over, tilt, and coin lockout relays are controlled by Q1, Q2, and Q3 respectively.  The tilt and game over relays use the same designation for the System 80B platform, however, the use of a coin lockout relay was abandoned by this time. One neat feature of the driver board circuitry is that lamp &amp;quot;n&amp;quot; is driven by transistor Q&amp;quot;n+1&amp;quot;. i.e. L12 is driven by Q13.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_drvr_board_coin_ctrs.JPG|160px|thumb|left|Driver Board with Coin Counter Transistors Highlighted ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;solenoids circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the driver board uses signals directly from the CPU to enable transistors on the driver board which turn on up to 9 solenoids.  For solenoid control, the driver board uses MPS-U45, 2N3055, and 2N6043 transistors.  Starting and ending with the System 80 platform, (games from Spiderman to Haunted House), three transistors were reserved to drive optional mechanical coin counters. These mechanical coin counter solenoids and associated transistors are: solenoid 3 (Q54), 4 (Q55), and 7 (Q56). Starting with the System 80A platform, (Devil&#039;s Dare), these transistors were no longer reserved for coin counters, and were used for other functions. Equally, the 3 diodes associated with these 3 transistors were changed to 3 zero ohm jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;sound&#039;&#039;&#039; signals (S1, S2, S4, S8) also pass through the driver board at Z13, a 7404 Hex Inverter. See below for S16 and S32.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Repurposed Driver Board Circuits====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb under pf transistor.JPG‎|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Remote Transistor Mounted Under the Playfield]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since quite a few System 80 games employ more than 9 solenoids, and since the original driver board design will drive a maximum of 9 solenoids, Gottlieb® repurposed some lamp outputs to drive &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot; which drive additional solenoids.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Gtb ma1011 trans board.JPG‎|160px|thumb|left| A Typical Transistor Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once playfields became littered with numerous &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot;, Gottlieb® opted to merge some of these transistors into a transistor driver board.  The transistor driver board started to appear on Gottlieb® games nearly midway through the System 80B platform, with the game Victory.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
The sound S16 and S32 signals are also repurposed lamp outputs. For instance, Haunted House and Black Hole both repurpose L9 to S16. Robo-War repurposes lamp 4 to S16. Note that S16 is not consistently implemented across the System 80 family. Note also that references to the usage of S32 are difficult to find.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Lamp Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb aux lamp 5.JPG|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Aux. Lamp Driver Board Using MPS-U45 Transistors (Maximum Control of 10 Lamps]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb aux lamp MA866 2N6043.JPG|140px|thumb|right| A Typical Aux. Lamp Driver Board Using 2N6043 Transistors (Controls a Maximum of 20 Lamps]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Time Line, several System 80/80A/80B platform games use auxiliary lamp driver boards.  These boards are commonly referred to as &amp;quot;chaser boards&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;lamp chaser boards&amp;quot;.  The reason for either of these nicknames is because these boards are used to control lamps for effect.  They are either placed in the backbox or under the playfield.  With later System 80B games, they were located in the lower cabinet.  Location is typically dependent upon what lamps are being controlled.  The aux. lamp driver boards are not controlled by the CPU.  The only signals needed for an aux. lamp driver board to function is +5V and ground.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several different variants of auxiliary lamp driver boards used.  The earliest versions use MPS-U45 transistors to control a maximum of three lamps per transistor.  Both 15 and 30 lamp versions (5 or 10 transistors) of this board exist.  Some later boards use NDS-U45 transistors instead of MPS-U45 transistors.  It is assumed this is due to a the cost or lack of MPS-U45 transistors during production.  Either of these style of boards are interchangeable with one another.  Finally, there are some boards used in later games which use 2N6043 transistors.  These are designed to control #67 flashlamps, but this is not always the case.  This style board was used to control lamps also.  These boards are equally compatible with previous designed boards, when used as a complete, drop-in replacement.  However, MPS-U45, NDS-U45, and CEN-U45 transistors are not 1-to-1 compatible with 2N6043 transistors.  A viable replacement transistor for the 2N6043 is the TIP102.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main difference between any of the auxiliary lamp boards is the amount of transistors used to drive lamps, and the resistor (R13) used to control the rate at which the lamps flash or &amp;quot;chase&amp;quot;.  Boards using 2N6043 transistors have different resistor values for resistors R2-R11 than boards which use MPS-U45s or NDS-U45s.  A table of auxiliary lamp driver boards used on most games is shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Total Transistors&lt;br /&gt;
!Total Lamps Controlled&lt;br /&gt;
!R13 Resistor Value&lt;br /&gt;
!Controls&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Line|| ||10||?||820K Ohm||Chaser lamps behind nuclear symbol on backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Mars:God of War|| ||10||28||330K Ohm||Backglass perimeter chaser lamps||In backbox||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mars:God of War|| ||5||10 (LEDs)||330K Ohm||LEDs behind tube||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano|| ||10||20||560K Ohm||Upper backglass perimeter chaser lamps and volcano effect behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Black Hole|| ||10||28||270K Ohm||Backglass perimeter chaser lamps||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Haunted House||MA-234||10||21||270K Ohm||Behind backglass lightning effect lamps||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky|| ||10||19||560K Ohm||Behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spirit|| ||10||20||Varies||Behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tag Team Pinball|| ||10||20||820K Ohm||Multiball insert illumination||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock|| ||10||18||680K Ohm||Extra ball insert path||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock Encore|| ||10||18||680K Ohm||Extra ball insert path||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Raven|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Inserts leading to ramp||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hollywood Heat|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Ramp insert illumination||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| ||10||10 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||In top of backbox ||Under PF||Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| ||10||10 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Around playfield window ||Under PF||Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||8 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Flashers in topper ||Under PF||1 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||6 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Flashers in topper ||Under PF||2 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||10||680K Ohm||Inserts leading to ramp ||Under PF||3 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| ||10||5||680K Ohm||Behind $10,000,000 sign||Under PF||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| ||10||30||680K Ohm||Lamps around perimeter of topper||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| ||10||30||680K Ohm||In topper||Under PF||1 of 2; only if topper present?&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Special shot and shooter loop||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Arena||MA-936||None||10 (LEDs)||560K Ohm||LED strip under shooter lane wireform ||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| ||10||10 (#86 bulbs)||680K Ohm||Next to left ramp||Under PF||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| ||10||10 (#86 bulbs)||680K Ohm||Next to right ramp||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diamond Lady||MA-789||10||5||680K Ohm||Loop right of the ramp||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Inserts in lower portion of playfield ||Lower cabinet||(1 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| ||10||10 ||680K Ohm||Under playfield glass stop||Lower cabinet||(2 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| ||10||5||680K Ohm||Drop target illumination ||Lower cabinet||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| ||10||10 ||10M Ohm||Under playfield glass stop||Lower cabinet||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters||MA-789||10||12||680K Ohm||Playfield inserts ||Under PF||(1 of 2) Uses NSD-U45&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters||MA-866||10||20 (#67 flashers)||680K Ohm||Backbox lamp insert||In backbox||(2 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® uses different sound boards throughout the course of all System 80 platforms.  Several of the sound boards cross platforms too.  Out of all of the sound boards used, there is really only about three base units total with variations made to each one.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sounds Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound Board MA-55 (Sounds only)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first System 80 sound board is capable of sound only.  Based on the 6503 CPU architecture, this sound board is very similar to the System 1 Multi-Mode sound board.  However, there are a couple of differences between the two boards.  First, the +12VDC is no longer rectifed on the sound board.  The +12VDC power comes from the power supply.  Secondly, the +5VDC is no longer regulated on the sound board. The System 80 sound receives +5VDC from the power supply also.  Finally, the pin outs for the System 1 sound board and the System 80 sound board are completely different.  Even though either board will plug into either platform,  &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT PLUG A SYSTEM 1 SOUND BOARD INTO A SYSTEM 80 GAME AND VICE VERSA!!!&#039;&#039;&#039;  If this is done, bad stuff will happen.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, there are two chips on this style of board which are very difficult to source. This sound board uses a 6503 CPU and 6530 RIOT chip with special embedded code. 6530 chips marked with R3016-11 are for this System 80 sound board. 6530 chips marked with a R3014-12 or R3014-13 are for the earlier System 1 sound board. The two chips are not cross-compatible since they each have different code embedded in them for each game system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to being used in early System 80 games, this sounds-only board was also used in the export versions of Black Hole, Volcano, and Devil&#039;s Dare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is missing or cannot be repaired, there are daughter boards and aftermarket boards available.  A daughter board called the &amp;quot;[https://coinop.mally.eu/produkt.php?bestellnr=101647&amp;amp;details=1 MIOT adapter]&amp;quot; is a replacement for the 6530 chip for both System 1 and System 80 sounds boards, produced in Germany. Pascal Janin in France has made a replacement sound board for both the original 2nd generation sound boards, and combination System 1 2nd gen boards / System 80/80A sound boards. These boards can purchased directly from Pascal - [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx1.php 2nd gen sound] &amp;amp; [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php combination Sys1 / Sys80/80A sound] . Although Pascal does not have US distributors, [http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/flippp.html Big Daddy Enterprises], sometimes has these sound boards available too.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Prototype Sounds Only Board as found in System 80 Hulk&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Images below capture a factory original Sounds only board prototype, complete with cuts (on component side) and jumpers (on solder side). Note the sound ROM marking of &amp;quot;500&amp;quot;, the game number assigned to the System 80 Hulk prototype (10 units built). Also note the &amp;quot;extra&amp;quot; 24 pin IC labeled 7681-5 in the center of the board. This IC is not present on production versions of this board. Just a guess, but since this board has a 6532 installed vs the production 6530 (40 pin IC), the 7681 appears to be ROM space to drive the sound program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=450px heights=250px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 Hulk Prototype Sound Only Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80HulkSoundsOnlyBoardFront.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Component side. Note &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot; at pin 21 of the center 24 pin IC.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80HulkSoundsOnlyBoardBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Solder side. Note factory green jumpers.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80&amp;amp;a s&amp;amp;s.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A B-20887-2 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Front.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A B-20887-3 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Mars God of War, the second System 80 sound board has the capability of speech.  Ironically, this board is commonly referred to as the &amp;quot;sound and speech board&amp;quot;, and was brought over from the Gottlieb® video game division at the time.  Fortunately, Gottlieb® chose the 6502 CPU architecture just like the CPU board.  There is a 6532 RIOT used also.  The downside to this board is the now rare LM379S amp and SC-01 phoneme speech chip are both difficult to acquire.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are approximately three renditions of this board.  Each will be marked with [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Different_Revisions_of_the_Sound_and_Speech_Boards B-20887-X].  The &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; denotes a suffix of 1, 2, or 3.  If the board has [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap wire wrap] or resistors added to the solder side of the board, do not assume that it is some sort of diabolical, weird hack.  These were recommended upgrades either done by the factory or out in the field.  With each higher revision number, less wire wrap and resistors are present on the solder side of the board.  However, each board revision typically has some degree of wire wrap added to it.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics corresponding to the -1 revision of the board can be found in the Mars, God of War and Volcano manuals. Schematics corresponding to the -3 revision of the board can be found in the Black Hole and Haunted House manuals.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A Sound Board w/ MA-483 Piggyback Board (replaces LM379S amp)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback.JPG|130px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® MA-483 Piggyback Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To reduce costs, Gottlieb® abandoned the speech option, and went a step backwards with a board generating sounds only.  In doing so, they used the same B-20887-3 base board as the most current sound and speech board.  The SC-01 speech chip socket in addition to the 74xx TTL chips, one of the LM741 op amps, and discrete components associated with the speech circuit were not installed on the board.  By the time this board was first used, the LM379S amp was too costly and difficult to source.  The solution was to add a single-side, piggyback board (as shown in the picture) with a TDA2002 amplifier and other necessary components.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this board is used as a replacement in a game which uses a sound &amp;amp; speech power supply, (Haunted House for example), modifications to the s&amp;amp;s power supply must be made.  This is due to the higher voltages necessary to operate the LM379S amp versus the TDA2002.  If this board is installed in a game where the sound and speech board power supply was not modified, the guarantee of destroying the TDA2002 amp is inevitable.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Only Board with Piggyback====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80a&amp;amp;b sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A / 80B Sound Board MA-490 w/ MA-488 Piggyback Board (Sounds only)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb piggyback sound factory trace wire.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80A / 80B Sound Board w/ Factory Trace Wire]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To reduce costs even more, Gottlieb® started using a modified sound only board, which was first used with Spiderman in 1980.  This &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; sound board was first used during the production of Amazon Hunt, and continued until Tag Team Pinball. The main modification of the board was the addition of a piggyback board.  The piggyback board was used to increase the size of the sound ROM by using a 2716 EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Two other noteworthy modifications are an added factory trace wire on the solder side of the board, and a cut trace between pin 8 of U7 (7404) and a header pin on the component side of the board. The added trace wire runs from pin 3 of U1 (6503 CPU) to pin 18 of U2 (piggyback header pins).  Both of these modifications should remain intact for the board to function properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is also worth mentioning that this is one of the few instances where Gottlieb® used a double-sided piggyback board.  The benefit of using a double-sided board is the decreased chance of cracked header pins, where the header pins attach to the underside of the piggyback board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (two button)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-766 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
And now for something completely different.  Well, not really.  The MA-766 sound board hit the scene with Rock, but a similar design was already used prior by the Gottlieb® video game division (Mylstar) when it existed.  It is based on the 6502 CPU architecture, but uses two 6502s instead of one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Two momentary push button switches are present on the board - SW1 and SW2.  Upon pushing SW1, the sound board should output a single blip (tone).  SW2 is used to manually reset the CPU on the sound board.  A bank of 4 dipswitches is located adjacent to SW1.  Dipswitches 1-3 should always be off, while dipswitch 4 should remain on for proper function.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (one button)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTBMA886SoundDepop.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886 Sound Board, only partially populated (found in Big House, Hollywood Heat, Bad Girls, etc.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 board is essentially the same as the previous sound board, except it uses 2 separate .156&amp;quot; header pin connections instead of edge connectors for inputs / outputs. Some other obvious changes are the omission of momentary test button SW1, the omission of the 4-bank dipswitch, the omission of YROM2 socket. In addition, a socket is sometimes populated at position S4 and neither AY-3-8913 orator chip is populated.  Momentary test button SW2 is still preset, and is still used to manually reset the board&#039;s processor.  The lack of YROM2 is because the MA-886 board allows for the use of larger EPROMs.  The S4 socket has been added on some boards, and is used to transfer data via a ribbon cable to an auxiliary sound board (MA-1033 or MA-1294). These boards also stuff R58 with a 10K 1/4W resistor and may have JP8 cut or not stuffed.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Bone Busters Sound Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MA766-719A.jpg ‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886-719A Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886-719A sound board (also noted as MA-1299-719 in the manual) is an additional sound board found only in Bone Busters. It is based on the MA-886 sound board, but it is a stripped down version with much fewer populated components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Amazon Hunt II Sound Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-982 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-982 sound board is used only in the conversion game: Amazon II. It is based on the MA-886 sound board, but it is a stripped down version with much fewer populated components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Auxiliary Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
There are two versions of the auxiliary sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MA1033AuxSound.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1033 Auxiliary Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-1033 auxiliary sound board was used in System 80B games including: Bad Girls, Big House, and Hot Shots, as well as one System 3 game: Lights, Camera, Action.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys3 sound MA-1294.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1294 Auxiliary Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-1294 auxiliary sound board was only used in one System 80B game, Bone Busters, as well as System 3 games including: Hoops, Bell Ringer, Silver Slugger, Car Hop, Deadly Weapon, Title Fight, and Vegas.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Speakers===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Panthera Head Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Typical speaker located in the head of a System 80 game (Panthera)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games use a dual speaker system.  In most cases, (where there is a grill above the backglass), there is a 6-1/2&amp;quot;, 8 ohm, low wattage speaker in the lower cabinet, and a second one in the head, behind the grill in the backbox.  Some games, like Haunted House, have two speakers in the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB-80a-the-games-speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Single speaker from an 80A game (The Games)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;System 80A games may have two speakers or just one. Again, these are 6-1/2&amp;quot;, 4 ohm, low wattage speakers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Tag Team Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Single speaker from an early 80B game (Tag Team)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 80B games, Chicago Cubs, Tag Team, and Bounty Hunter, all use a single 6-1/2&amp;quot; 4 ohm speaker in the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Rock, 80Bs use a 6-1/4&amp;quot; in the cabinet and a small speaker on the left of the display panel.  The last few 80B games, where the speaker panel is located above the translite, use three speakers total (2 above the translite and 1 in the lower cabinet).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 6 digit display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 6 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 6 digit display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 6 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80=====&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is step number 19 System 80 games. Each display, including the credit/match display participates in &amp;quot;walking&amp;quot; each digit (0 through 9 beginning with 0) across each display. The &amp;quot;walking&amp;quot; begins at the match side of the credit/match display, then moves to players 1 and 3, then to players 2 and 4. After a &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is walked through all displays, the cycle starts again with &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 7 digit display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A 7 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 7 digit display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80A 7 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80A=====&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is step number 19 System 80A games. Each display lights every position, and advances through all of the numbers starting with &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and ending with &amp;quot;9&amp;quot;.  Once &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is reached, the process starts over at &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; again.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayFront.jpg‎|260px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-644 Display Component Side]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayBack.jpg‎|260px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-644 Display Solder Side]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games introduced the 20 alphanumeric character dual line display module. These displays evolved over time. The one pictured here was used in games Chicago Cubs Triple Play until Excalibur. The two large ICs found on this board (Rockwell 10941 segment driver and Rockwell 10939 digit driver) are long obsolete and very hard to obtain. Other components on the board are readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board rectifies 32VAC via diodes CR1-CR4 to produce -45VDC and -15VDC for use by the segment and digit drivers. Should one or more of these diodes fail, the foil trace on the board sometimes acts like a fuse, and burns itself up. The picture at right shows a board that experienced this failure, along with a jumper to repair the damaged trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:GTB_80B_Large_AlphN_Display.JPG|260px|thumb|left|Gottlieb System 80B MA-999 Alpha-Numeric Display Board with header pin connections. (Bad Girls)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The last System 80B games (Hot Shots, Big House, Bad Girls, and Bone Busters) all used a larger alphanumeric vacuum fluorescent display assembly.  This type of display used two sets of .156&amp;quot; header pins instead of the more familiar edge connection.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80B=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb alphanum display test.gif|thumb|left|160px|Simulation of System 80B display test]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is test number 20 for System 80B.  All 40 of the alpha-numeric &amp;quot;digits&amp;quot; (both the top and bottom displays) will light starting with a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;, next a &amp;quot;+&amp;quot;, then an &amp;quot;X&amp;quot;, and finally a &amp;quot;,&amp;quot;.  In doing this, all possible segments of all the display digits are lit at one point during display test.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Reset Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 reset.JPG|thumb|left|160px|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80B MA-980 Reset Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Newer Reset Board.jpg|thumb|right|160px|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1143 Reset/Anti-Static Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Devil&#039;s Dare, the first System 80A game, the reset board became a staple of the Gottlieb® design to automatically reset the CPU board should the CPU lock up.  Apparently games locking up on location was an issue with System 80 games.  The reset board was created to resolve this issue, should the game lock up, and no one is present to manually reset the game by shutting it off and turning it back on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-980 reset board is a small footprint PCB with the board designation of A24, and is located adjacent to the TC1 connector of the CPU board.  The connection on the reset board is A24P1, while the connection for TC1 of the CPU board is A24P2.  As long as someone can turn the game off, should it lock up, there is no need to keep the reset board connected.  In most cases, the aged reset boards are more troublesome if allowed to remain connected.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTBResetBoardConnector.jpg|thumb|left|160px|Connection at TC1 to the reset board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB_RW_3K_Pullup.JPG|thumb|right|160px|A 3.0Kohm resistor, added between pins 7 and 11 of TC1.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Along with adding the reset board, Gottlieb® added a 3.0Kohm resistor across pins 7 and 11 of the reset board connection at MPU connector TC1. If not using the reset board, it&#039;s advised to add this resistor to the back of the board, as shown at right. This resistor pulls the R/W (read/write) line high when not pulled down by the 6502.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using connector A24-P2, do not add the 3.0Kohm resistor.  Doing so will change the effective resistance to 1.5Kohms (value of resistors in parallel).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reset board connector also has a 1N270 diode soldered to it. There is no need to add this diode to the MPU since it&#039;s part of the reset board function.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;More Regarding the 3Kohm Pullup Resistor&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Most MPU boards will work without the reset board but some MPU boards do refuse to work without the Read/Write pullup resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 3K resistor was added for two reasons:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#It provides a stable Read/Write signal at power-up. There is a tiny fraction of time at power up where data can be written into Z5 but due to gate Z36A, this data write is prevented. The resistor does provide a proper biasing to the Read/Write line at time of powerup.&lt;br /&gt;
#More importantly - A Rockwell 6502 has a minimum VOH of 2.4volts, a 4069 requires a minimum VIH of 4 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In other words:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The Read/Write output from U1 (pin 34) guarantees the output will be 2.4 volts or higher for a logic 1.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The 4069 located at Z36D (pin 9 input of Z36) requires the input to be 4 volts or higher for a logic 1.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The 3K pullup resistor pulls the Z36D input closer to the required voltage range.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do realize that even though this problem exists on all System 80/80A/80B boards but only a very small fraction of these Gottlieb boards exhibit any symptoms. The chances that you have one if these that exhibit symptoms is quite slim.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Initial Troubleshooting===&lt;br /&gt;
When attempting to troubleshoot a malfunctioning or non-booting game, there are a few initial steps to perform before diving into more serious troubleshooting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# If the MPU has damage from a leaking battery, it will need to be addressed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off all the edge connector contacts using a pink rubber eraser. This will remove any tarnish or grime that has built up over the years. Do not use sandpaper or fiberglass erasers on the contacts--they will only thin the material. There is a small risk that rubbing the eraser on the contacts will dislodge one of them, but this is very uncommon to see happen on system 80 boards.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check all the fuses using a multimeter in diode/continuity mode. Do not rely on a visual inspection. Sometimes a fuse will appear to be intact, but actually may be blown. Fuses are located near the transformer and on the underside of the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check voltages on the fuses near the transformer to make sure they are as expected.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the power supply voltages and make sure that they are as expected. 5v may need to be adjusted to 5.03v to ensure that the MPU recieves the necessary power it needs in order to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be sure to [[#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness|install the two jumper wires in the interconnect harness]] between the driver board and MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These steps may help address a number of common issues before proceeding to some of the more specific problems that can occur with system 80 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connectors, Connectors, Connectors===&lt;br /&gt;
Connectors, connectors, connectors!!!  Since the Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B boardset primarily relies on Molex connectors to pass data and voltages from board to board, the connectors should be addressed first.  Before even attempting to turn a Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B game on for the first time, worn or corroded edge connector contacts must be replaced.  Cleaning or burnishing connector contacts is not a viable option to ensure a game&#039;s reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Poor connector contacts are the number one reason why System 80/80A/80B games do not function properly.  Poor or missing connector contacts have a cascading effect too.  The end results of bad connector contacts can be, but are not limited to:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*voltages which mysteriously disappear and reappear&lt;br /&gt;
*increased resistance &lt;br /&gt;
*specific switches not functioning&lt;br /&gt;
*lamps locking on&lt;br /&gt;
*lamps not turning on&lt;br /&gt;
*displays not properly functioning&lt;br /&gt;
*coils not turning on&lt;br /&gt;
*coils locking on&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU boards not booting, booting sporadically, or randomly resetting&lt;br /&gt;
*driver boards not functioning or functioning sporadically&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, it is very important that the connector contacts are shiny, have proper spring tension, and are properly crimped for the over all reliability of the game.  Random, flaky issues which happen either sporadically or all the time are attributed to poor connector contacts in nearly every case.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=450px heights=100px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 Connector (J6), The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80ConnectorBadPins.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;An example of pins in desperate need of rehab.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80ConnectorGoodPins.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ahhh...Much nicer after repinning.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SandedGottliebEdgeConnector.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Sanded (or possibly bare from the factory) card edge contacts will corrode and degrade the electrical connection.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File: GottliebEdgeConnectorRehab.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The two connector pads on the left have been lightly scratched with the fiberglass pencil. Even the small bit of oxidation or corrosion shown on the remaining pins is enough to prevent a connection.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A common (poor) practice is to sand the card edge contacts to the bare copper as shown at left. While this may alleviate issues in the short term, longer term the copper will oxidize and cause more problems. All copper oxidizes. Copper is beautiful on building rooftops when first installed but oxidizes to a light green patina over time. Card edge contacts will do the same thing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the card edge contacts aren&#039;t bright and shiny, they can be cleaned off with a pink rubber eraser or lightly scratched with a fiberglass pencil. This will remove oxidation and grime without harming or thinning the finger contacts. If the contacts are corroded (due to battery damage) or have divots in them, lightly sand them, then re-tin them with a thin coat of solder. Either suck the excess solder off with a solder sucker or when heated, wipe the solder off with a rag. Avoid heating the card edge contacts too much as they will detach from the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing (Repinning) System 80 Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
Replacing connectors in a pinball machine somehow adopted the term repinning. Repinning a System 80 connector housing isn&#039;t too bad overall.  On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 (1 being the easiest to do) compared to all other makes and platforms made, System 80 connector replacement is about a 3.  One benefit regarding the System 80 IDC housings is that they are reusable.  Below are the steps to remove the connector from its housing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*First, grasp the housing in one hand.  Use a small &amp;quot;pocket&amp;quot; flat blade screwdriver. add pic later---&amp;gt; (http://www.absorbentprinting.com/tools-and-knives/screwdrivers/pocket-screwdrivers/level-rite-regular-blade-options).&lt;br /&gt;
*Next, push the connector&#039;s ear down, so the connector can be released.&lt;br /&gt;
*Finally, pull gently but firmly on the wire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes the connector comes out, and sometimes the wire pops out of the connector.  If the latter, use a small jeweler&#039;s screwdriver to gently pry the very end of the connector against the rectangular opening in the connector housing.  You&#039;re trying to get the IDC &amp;quot;ears&amp;quot; of the connector to clear the housing.  Sometimes the connector will easily come right out.  If it doesn&#039;t, use some small needle nose pliers, and grab the &amp;quot;ear&amp;quot; of the connector, and pull it out.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Molex11-03-0016.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Molex Contact Extraction Tool, Molex part number 11-03-0016]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some system 80 connector housings are &amp;quot;double sided&amp;quot; edge connectors. All of the connector housings that are double sided are black from the factory (blue colored housings are typically Jamma connectors used as replacements, and do not apply to this section of this guide).  To remove pins from these connector housings, you need a pricey yet effective tool called a Molex contact extraction tool, (commonly referred to as a Molex extractor). The Molex part number for the extractor is 11-03-0016, and can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=11-03-0016&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= Great Plains Electronics] or other electronics vendors.  Slide the extractor behind the pin to release the &amp;quot;tang&amp;quot; that holds the pin in. Firmly grip the wire and pull the pin out of the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate Method of Replacing (Repinning) System 80 Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateRepin1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The repinning on a single sided connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateRepin2.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The repinning on a double sided connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80 (and most System 1) connectors do not have the slot for depressing the pin ear. Most guides (as in the previous section) recommend purchasing a somewhat pricey tool to insert into the connector and depress the ear. This procedure is tedious and takes a bit of practice. If you have a decently equipped shop which includes a drill press, repinning these connectors using the following steps might be easier for you. Using this procedure, you can expect to replace each pin in less then a minute. I repinned an entire A1-J4 / A3-J1 harness in about 40 mins.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The procedure is to drill out the depression ear and pull out the pin:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Install a 1/16&amp;quot; bit in your drill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Set up a jig by clamping a straight edge to your drill press table. Set the jig so the hole will be 1/4&amp;quot; from the edge of the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
* Drill through the plastic housing on the back/bottom side.&lt;br /&gt;
* When you feel resistance from the metal pin, gently continue to drill until you feel and hear it destroy the pin ear.&lt;br /&gt;
* Repeat for the remaining pins.&lt;br /&gt;
* Gently pull wire by hand and it will come out very easily. Pliers shouldn&#039;t be required.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The newly installed pins ears will correctly lock in place regardless of the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The CPU / Driver Board Interconnect Harness===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 harn2.JPG|200px|thumb|left|The A1-J4 / A3-J1 Interconnect Harness]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 harn1.JPG|200px|thumb|right|The A1-J4 / A3-J1 Interconnect Harness]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are 33 discrete signals which pass from the CPU board to the driver board via this connection.  Two of the connectors pass ground and +5v logic to the driver board [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness (two more can be added)].  The remaining signals are for lamp, solenoid, relay and sound control.  It is &#039;&#039;&#039;extremely important&#039;&#039;&#039; to have solid connectors installed in the CPU / driver board interconnect harness.  Without decent connections, lamps, coils, relays, and sound can either lock on or not turn on at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Adding Ground and 5V Connections to Interconnect Harness====&lt;br /&gt;
Yet one more power/ground update to make is to &amp;quot;double up&amp;quot; the 5VDC and ground connections between the MPU and the driver board. The OEM harness contains only one connection between the MPU and driver board for 5VDC and one connection for logic ground. This is an easy upgrade since spare connection positions are available in the connectors that lead to the correct edge contacts on each board.  Approximately 8 inches of wire and four bifurcated crimp on pins (bifurcated style, Molex 4366 series, Product Family KK, product ID: 08-03-0304 at [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=4366&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= Great Plains Electronics]) are needed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Crimp a pin to each end of each wire. The connectors at each end should face opposite directions. Doing this will avoid twisting the wire as you insert the pins into the connector housing. In the picture below, the red wire carries 5VDC, blue wire carries logic ground. These colors were chosen for illustrative purposes only. Any color wire will do, of course.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=170px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;MPU-to-Driver Board Harness Upgrade&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessUpgradeWires.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pins crimped to extra wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessSlots.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Spare pin positions in harness.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessUpgraded.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5VDC and ground upgraded.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Ground updates===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80/80A/80B Boards ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the Gottlieb® System 80 board set was designed, for whatever reason, the designers did not physically attach each board to a common ground plane via a conductive back panel, standoffs and screws as Bally and Williams did. Instead, Gottlieb® relied on connectors and wires between each board to create a common ground. A poor connection due to dirty/damaged/fatigued connector pins will sever the ground between system components resulting in all sorts of odd behavior.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this problem, it is important to examine each connector to ensure each pin is clean, and making solid contact with the card edge conductor. The ultimate (and recommended) insurance is to add an additional wire from each board&#039;s ground to a common ground point. Historically, the recommended location to join separate board grounds is at the power supply. That ground is then connected to the ground strip or transformer assembly in the cabinet bottom.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System80 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Recommended Board Ground Wire Locations&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80_PSU_Ground.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80/80A Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80bPowerSupplyGroundMod.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B 5V Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80BAuxiliaryPowerSupplyCardEdge.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80a cpu brd grd.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;MPU Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80ab drvr brd grd.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Driver Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80 sound added ground.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80 Sound Only Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sound Speech ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound and Speech Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sound Speech power sup ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound and Speech Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb piggyback sound ground add.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80A/80B Sound Only Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GottliebSoundBoardGroundMod.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Sound Board (edge connector)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80SoundBoardHeaderGrounds.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Sound Board (header connector)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Aux Board Ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chaser Lamp Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another design decision was to provide separate ground wires for groups of lamps and coils on the driver board. There are several variations used to tie the driver board lamp and solenoid discrete ground wires to the ground plane.  The most common method Gottlieb® used was passing the ground wires through a large, inline Molex connector. If a group of lamps and/or coils are not working, there is a significant probability that a ground is missing.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80GroundsTiedTogether.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Tying all board ground together at a single point, on a System 80 or 80A game.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80B_BoardGrounds_Added.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Using the +5V power supply heatsink as a tie point for the added grounds.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once all of the board grounds have been installed, tie them all together to a single point, as shown at left on a Gottlieb System 80 or 80A game. Here, one of the screws on the power supply is a handy attach point. Note that the coating on the cold plate at that screw point should be sanded bare, as discussed in step 9 of this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Updates_and_Repairs_for_the_System_80.2F80A_Power_Supply_Board procedure].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For 80B games, use the +5V power supply heatsink as a tie point.  Then, run a lead from the heatsink to the lower right bolt in the backbox.  This bolt will have the factory ground straps secured to it.  Make certain to sand or use a Dremel to remove the anodized coating from the heatsink where the grounds will be connected.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80GroundTiedToCabinetGround.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Connecting all the grounds to cabinet ground (green/yellow wire).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the grounds all tied together at the power supply, tie that ground to the ground strip in the cabinet bottom. In the picture at left, the wire joined to all other grounds at the power supply is tied to a cabinet ground point (in this case the speaker housing). Cabinet ground points generally have a green wire with yellow tracer attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80GroundStrap.jpg|left|thumb|200px|System 80 Cabinet Bottom Ground Strip]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The bottom board ground strap is where all grounds should come together for System 80 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Grounds Improvements for System 80A at Transformer Panel=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80A Grounds Cabinet Bottom Ground Strip]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Grounds Alien Star After.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Alien Star)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® did secure the grounds correctly on one particular game.  As seen in the adjacent pic, the grounds on Alien Star were attached discretely on the transformer panel.  These ground lines did not pass through a Molex connector like games before or games after.  Why Gottlieb® did not continue this practice is unknown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80B====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80A / 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;The Games&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Bounty Hunter&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
After Alien Star, Gottlieb® either soldered wire leads directly to the male spade connector board on the transformer panel (games like Chicago Cubs), or used female spade connectors (games like The Games, Touchdown, and Ice Fever), and used square, inline 9-pin Molex connectors to connect to the wiring harness. These connections, if the pins in the connectors are in good shape, are solid and do not require upgrade or modification.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-touchdown-transformer-panel.jpg|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Touchdown)&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Grounds Cubs.jpg|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Chicago Cubs Triple Play)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;Tag Team Pinball&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Spring Break&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Ground connections used on System 80B games from Rock to Spring Break are the most unreliable style of ground connections Gottlieb® ever used.  These connections consist of two (sometimes three) small boards each with two gangs of 9-pin male connections. The boards are fastened to the left side of the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis.  One problem with this is that the 9-pin female connection becomes loose, and in turn, ground connections become intermittent.  Another problem is the male pins on the boards suffer from cracked solder connections.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One common symptom of poor ground connections is multiple solenoids not functioning.  If removing the 9-pin Molex plug from the ground board, rotating it 90 degrees, and reconnecting it causes non-working solenoids to function, the ground connections are bad. Whether or not this test proves that the ground connections are bad, it is highly recommended to improve the ground connections for future reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purpose of these changes is to remove one potentially failed connection out of the equation.  The grounds will then be secured directly to the transformer chassis via solderless eyelet crimp connectors.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System3 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].  Below are the steps to properly upgrade the grounds.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Gottlieb® System 80B Ground Upgrades (Tag Team Pinball to Spring Break)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb_sys80b_trans_ground_01.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The stock ground connections plugged into the ground connection boards on the left side of the transformer panel.  This pic is a view from the left side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 02.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Remove all connections from the transformer panel.  Then, unscrew the four 5/16&amp;quot; hex head screws which secure the transformer panel from the bottom of the cabinet.  Turn the transformer panel on its side.  This will allow better access to secure the ring terminals to the side of the chassis.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 03.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut all of the ground wires as close as possible to the 9-pin connection.  Remove the two boards with the 9-pin male wafer connections.  As can be seen in the pic, Gottlieb® did actually secure the discrete transformer panel grounds to the panel&#039;s chassis with a single, soldered eyelet connector.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 04.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All the ground wires are to have their insulation stripped back longer than usual - approximately 3/4&amp;quot;.  Solderless ring terminals are crimped onto the ground wires.  The connections used in this particular application are Motormite #85443.  Motormite brand does not have to be used.  This particular brand and part number are mentioned due to the difficulty in finding the correct connectors to use. Most common ring terminals have a #10 or larger screw eyelet, which will not work effectively, if the eyelets are fastened to the side of the transformer panel chassis.  The ring terminals shown here are made for #12-#10 gauge wire with an eyelet for a #8 screw.  &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 02.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The ground Molex plugs and connection boards which were formerly fastened to the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis. The four ground connector plugs (some games only use three total) were cut off from the incoming ground wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 06.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Keep wires which were common to one connector together (driver board ground wires, playfield ground wires, and backbox ground wires).  In doing this, future disassembly will be possible, should any of the individual wiring harnesses need attention or the playfield removed from the game.  The ground wires are then twisted together and crimped.  From experience, a maximum of 4 larger gauge wires can be crimped in one connection.  Lighter gauge wires can be paired with or without heavier gauge wires.  When doing this, the maximum effective grouping of wires increases slightly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 01.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The screws which were removed from the ground bus board should be reused to secure the eyelets to the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 03.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The transformer is fastened to the bottom of the cabinet with the ground upgrades in place.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground last.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pay close attention when securing the transformer panel to the cabinet.  All four mounting screws typically have flat ground straps with an eyelet.  These eyelet connections *must* be secured to the transformer panel.  Otherwise, the earth grounds will not all be tied together anymore.  Two of these ground connections are circled in the pic.  There are two more located on the backside of the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although somewhat equally difficult to locate, an alternate to the Motormite # 85443 connectors are Tyco / AMP 408-2049-4 connectors. Again, any brand can be used, but make certain the eyelet hole is for a #8 screw (not a #10 or larger), and the crimp connector can accommodate #10 / #12 gauge wires (typically yellow insulation on crimp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;Arena&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Bone Busters&amp;quot; =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ground connections used on System 80B games from Arena to Bone Busters are the not as bad as the previous design, however, they are still unreliable at times.  These connections consist of two small boards with three 10-pin .156&amp;quot; inline male header connections. The boards are fastened to the left side (or back side on newer games like Hot Shots) of the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis.  One problem with this is that the header pins get cracked solder joints, and in turn, ground connections become intermittent. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One common symptom of poor ground connections is multiple solenoids not functioning.  If removing the 10-pin Molex plug from the ground board, and reconnecting it at a different header causes non-working solenoids to function, the ground connections are bad. Whether or not this test proves that the ground connections are bad, it is highly recommended to improve the ground connections for future reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purpose of these changes is to remove one potentially failed connection out of the equation.  The grounds will then be secured directly to the transformer chassis via solderless eyelet crimp connectors.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the previous section, these ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System3 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].  Below are the steps to properly upgrade the grounds.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Gottlieb® System 80B Ground Upgrades (Arena to Bone Busters)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 01.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The stock ground connections plugged into the ground connection boards on the left side of the transformer panel.  This pic is a view from the left side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 02.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Remove all connections from the transformer panel.  Then, unscrew the four 5/16&amp;quot; hex head screws which secure the transformer panel from the bottom of the cabinet.  Turn the transformer panel on its side.  This will allow better access to secure the ring terminals to the side of the chassis.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 03.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut all of the ground wires as close as possible to the 10-pin housing.  Remove the two boards with the three .156&amp;quot; 10-pin male header connections.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 04.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All of the ground wires are to have their insulation stripped back longer than usual - approximately 3/4&amp;quot;.  Solderless ring terminals are crimped onto the ground wires.  The connections used in this particular application are Motormite #85443.  Motormite brand does not have to be used.  This particular brand and part number are mentioned due to the difficulty in finding the correct connectors to use. Most common ring terminals have a #10 or larger screw eyelet, which will not work effectively, if the eyelets are fastened to the side of the transformer panel chassis.  The ring terminals shown here are made for #12-#10 gauge wire with an eyelet for a #8 screw.  &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 05.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The ground Molex plugs and connection boards which were formerly fastened to the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis. The five ground connector plugs were cut off from the incoming ground wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 06.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Keep wires which were common to one connector together (driver board ground wires, playfield ground wires, and backbox ground wires).  In doing this, future disassembly will be possible, should any of the individual wiring harnesses need attention or the playfield removed from the game.  The ground wires are then twisted together and crimped.  From experience, a maximum of 4 larger gauge wires can be crimped in one connection.  Lighter gauge wires can be paired with or without heavier gauge wires.  When doing this, the maximum effective grouping of wires increases slightly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 07.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The screws which were removed from the ground bus board should be reused to secure the eyelets to the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 08.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The transformer is fastened to the bottom of the cabinet with the ground upgrades in place.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 09.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pay close attention when securing the transformer panel to the cabinet.  The four mounting screws may have flat ground straps with an eyelet.  These eyelet connections *must* be secured to the transformer panel.  Otherwise, the earth grounds will not all be tied together anymore.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although somewhat equally difficult to locate, an alternate to the Motormite # 85443 connectors are Tyco / AMP 408-2049-4 connectors. Again, any brand can be used, but make certain the eyelet hole is for a #8 screw (not a #10 or larger), and the crimp connector can accommodate #10 / #12 gauge wires (typically yellow insulation on crimp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing the Orange Filtering Capacitor====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AgedOrangeCap.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn out original 6800uf/25V Gottlieb® filter capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If your System 80 or early System 80A game still has the original, orange 12VDC filtering capacitor in the cabinet bottom, it should be replaced. It&#039;s 30+ years old, has served the game well for a long time, and deserves a rest. Replace it with a new capacitor, valued from 6800uf to 12,000uf and at least 25V. Don&#039;t forget to acquire the right sized bracket to secure the cap to the bottom board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A very nice replacement for this capacitor, specified at 12,000uf, can be found [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-67.asp here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This capacitor filters the rectified 12VDC which is supplied to the power supply board for regulation down to 5VDC which is used by the every board in the game, including the MPU. Solid 5VDC power is critical for the game to operate properly. Hence the need for a properly working cap.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sporadic / Inconsistent / Missing Voltages====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 PS Cold Joints.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This header pin was removed from the board by wiggling it loose!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One problem with the System 80 power supply sporadic, inconsistent, or missing voltages.  The game may be fine one minute, while the next minute, it loses voltage(s) completely.  One of the main culprits for this is cracked header joints.  Between vibration and the heat dissipated by the heat sink, header joints have a fairly high failure rate on System 80 power supplies.  The fix is to disassemble the power supply (as seen in the next section), and replace the stock round header pins with square headers. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Updates and Repairs for the System 80/80A Power Supply Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80PSBurnedCR7.jpg|200px|thumb|right|If CR7 on your Gottlieb power supply looks like this, the board should be rehabbed immediately.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Power Supply board is a pretty tough bugger. Still, after years of steady operation, they do fail, and they require refurbishment.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The test point values are silk screened on the System 80 power supply board. They are +5VDC, +8VDC, +42VDC, and +60VDC. Ground, or &amp;quot;common&amp;quot; is also labeled.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Given that the parts to refurbish the power supply are cheap and readily available, and that taking the power supply apart is a bit of a pain, a good strategy is to replace all failure prone parts, whether the parts have failed or not, to avoid disassembling the power supply more than once.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Parts you will need are:&lt;br /&gt;
#.156 male header pins without friction lock, 9-pin, 7-pin, 6-pin, or break to size.&lt;br /&gt;
#500 ohm resistor cermet trimmer potentiometer. A quality sealed one like the one pictured is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
#3 inches of 18 gauge wire&lt;br /&gt;
#680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor (470, 510, 560, or 620 works also) replacement for R10, originally a 30 ohm 2W resistor and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;must be replaced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; if CR7 is replaced with a 1N4738 (below)&lt;br /&gt;
#1N4738 8.2V 1 watt zener diode (CR7, originally a 1N3445 8.2V 2W zener)&lt;br /&gt;
#12K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor (R3)&lt;br /&gt;
#1N4746 18V 1 watt zener diode (CR6, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#47uf, 100V axial capacitor (C2, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#LM723 voltage regulator and 14-pin socket (IC1, optional if the 5V section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#2N6057, 2N6059, or 2N6284 Darlington transistor (Q3, optional if the 5V section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#heat sink compound (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-3 mica insulator or heat sink gasket (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-3 transistor spacer (optional as required) Keystone 4616 or Mouser Electronics 534-4616&lt;br /&gt;
#2N5550 or 2N5551 transistor (Q2, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#470uf/100V axial capacitor (C1, optional if the 42v/60v section is operational, this cap is often the cause of the 1/4A HV fuse blowing)&lt;br /&gt;
#TIP31C TO-220 NPN transistor (Q1, optional if the 42v/60v section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 mica insulator (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 Passive Heatsink - Aavid Thermalloy 563002B00000G (only necessary if the existing heatsink is damaged or missing the PCB mounting tabs)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 Nylon Bushing Insulator (only necessary if missing or damaged)&lt;br /&gt;
#Green LEDs (optional...use if you want to identify the board as having been reworked)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the 4 screws that fasten the PCB to the cold plate (heat sink).&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the 2 screws that fasten the back mounted transistor Q3 to the PCB and cold plate.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use your favorite solder removal tool to remove the solder from the legs of Q3 that extend through the PCB. This is the toughest part of the job. If the board had been really hacked, you may need two irons and a friend to accomplish this.&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the cold plate and Q3 have been removed, set those parts to the side.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace parts on the PCB as recommended and advised by the particular failure.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the PCB, solder a 3&amp;quot; wire from the ground trace to the screw mount, as shown in the picture below.&lt;br /&gt;
#When replacing the original round header pins with new square header pins, the through holes may require slight enlargement using a pick as shown in the picture below. Alternatively, the holes can be drilled with a small bit from the solder side of the board. Pressing the pins into the through holes without enlarging them might cause the solder pad to pop off the board. Key pins must be removed prior to installation as the PCB has no holes at the key pin position.&lt;br /&gt;
#Recheck all of your work.&lt;br /&gt;
#Sand the black insulating coating from the top/right screw hole on the front of the cold plate, as shown in the picture below. The insulating coating is very tough. A drum sander attachment on a Dremel works very well for this.  To ensure you&#039;ve sanded enough, use your meter to &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between screw holes. You will use this screw hole later to tie the ground from each PCB together.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Q3 (note that it will only install one way) onto the cold plate using the transistor spacer, mica insulator, and heat sink compound.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mate the two halves of the power supply together and reinstall the two screws which secure Q3.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the leads of Q3 to it&#039;s through-holes.&lt;br /&gt;
#To ensure continuity at each leg&#039;s solder joint, &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection between the left leg of Q3 and the top leg of R9.&lt;br /&gt;
#Also &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection between the right leg of Q3 and the bottom leg of R11.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the remaining 4 screws around the perimeter of the power supply board. &lt;br /&gt;
#Lastly, ensure there is NO continuity between Q3 and the cold plate, as shown in the picture below. This is an essential step to ensure proper operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=170px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;System 80/80A Power Supply Repair&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Parts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsRemoved.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front Side, Parts Removed and Board Cleaned Up&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsRemovedBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Back Side, Parts Removed&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:EnlargingHoles.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Enlarging Header Pin Holes&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsReplaced.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Replaced, Front Side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsReplacedBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Replaced and Ground Updated, Back Side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:R10ThermalStrainRelief.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Strain Relief for R10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80PSAllDone.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All Done&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Transistor-to-ColdPlateContinuityTest.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ensuring no continuity between Q3 and the cold plate&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once fully assembled, reinstall the power supply into your game. Connect ONLY J1 (the lower 9-pin connector) at this time. Power your game on, looking for the two LEDs to light. If they do not light, you have rework to perform. Assuming that they do light, test each of the voltages that the power supply creates to ensure the correct power is being generated/regulated. Since the power is not &amp;quot;under load&amp;quot;, each of the voltages may read 10% or so high. While measuring the 5V test point, adjust the 5V trim pot to about 5.1VDC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it! You&#039;re done.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: once you connect the other boards to the power supply, the 5V may sag some. Measure the 5V across the electrolytic cap just to the right of the MPU power connector. Using the 5V trim pot, adjust the 5V power to between 5.0 and 5.1VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Repairs for the System 80B Power Supply Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B +5 VDC Power Supply. The adjustment POT is at the top of the PCB.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Step one to improving power supply reliability is to replace the original 500 ohm 1 watt adjustment pot.  This procedure can be done easily without removing the large heat sink.  A replacement sealed pot is recommended, but not completely necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, remove all the old solder from the all of the .156&amp;quot; header pins, and reflow new solder onto the joints. The top header pins (J2) supply +5VDC to the majority of the associated circuit boards in the back box.  Provided that the power supply is delivering acceptable voltages in the +5VDC range, these two relatively simple repairs are the only things needed for this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
However, if you&#039;ve adjusted the pot as much as possible in the appropriate direction, and the power supply is still delivering voltages higher or lower than around +5VDC, it&#039;s probably time to look at replacing the LM338K voltage regulator.  While not a frequent occurrence, the voltage regulator will sometimes fail. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the voltages measured are less than 1VDC, the grounds for the power supply (located at the transformer panel) will more than likely need attention.  Once the grounds at the transformer panel are better secured, recheck the voltage at the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: When measuring the +5VDC provided by the power supply, first disconnect J2 on the power supply. Measure power at the J2 male headers first. Once within an acceptable range, turn power off and reconnect J2. Measure power across C1, the 100uf/10V capacitor that is next to J1 (power connector) on the MPU. The MPU may drag the +5VDC supply down a bit. If you find this to be the case, adjust the trim pot on the power supply until a steady +5VDC is seen at the MPU. Poor connections between the +5VDC power supply and the MPU board may also reduce the voltage measured at the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Optional Bling...Adding Power Indicating LED&#039;s to Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
=====CPU Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
How to add a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator for the Gottlieb System 80 Generation 1 CPU board (the D102 board). This will light up when + 5 volts are present on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes spaced about 3mm apart in the spot indicated just below power connector J1. This area has no traces to interfere with drilling.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install LED into board with flat side facing toward the power connector J1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the flat side&#039;s lead to the negative (ground) point shown in the picture and solder it.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will connect to one side of the 330 ohm resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the positive trace shown in the picture. You&#039;re done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is powered on, this LED will indicate that the CPU board is receiving +5 volts from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDholesfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDholesrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drilled on rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Circled areas are where to drill the two holes for the LED. Any color of LED can be used, but red or green are preferred.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDwiring.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring on solder side of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDfront.JPG|200px|thumb|right|LED installed on board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED. Note the location of the flat side of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80CPULEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation of LED]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed installation with LED lit up indicating the +5 volts is present on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator to the System 80 Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohm quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; holes spaced about 3mm apart in the board at the location shown in the pictures to the left of the electrolytic capacitor near chip Z1. There should be no traces at that area.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the red LED with the flat side facing the trace going to the negative side of the electrolytic capacitor. Bend the LED&#039;s flat side lead down to that trace and scrape away some of the green paint at the point you will be soldering it. Now solder that lead to the trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder one end of the 330 ohm resistor to the other lead of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will now get soldered to the trace that goes to the positive side of the electrolytic capacitor. Again, be sure to scrape some of the green paint off of the trace where the resistor lead will be soldered. You are done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is on, the LED will be lit indicating that the driver board is receiving +5 volts from the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LED_holesfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDholesrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes on the rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Views of the holes drilled for the LED looking from the front and rear of the System 80 driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDrear.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring of the LED and resistor]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDflat.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Finished installation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED. Notice the location of the flat side of the LED. Any color of LED can be used, but red or green is prefered.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80LEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation with LED lit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed installation showing the LED lit up indicating +5v power is present on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pop Bumper Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
How to add a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator for the Gottlieb System 80 Pop Bumper Driver Board. This will light up when + 5 volts are present on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#From the solder side, mark and drill four 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes spaced as shown in the spot indicated. &lt;br /&gt;
#Install LED into board with flat side facing toward the power connector J1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the flat side&#039;s lead to the negative (ground) point shown in the picture and solder it.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will connect to one side of the 330 ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the positive trace shown in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
#You&#039;re done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is powered on, this LED will indicate that the CPU board is receiving +5 volts from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-supplies.jpg|Supplies needed.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-1.jpg|Mark holes on solder side as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-2.jpg|Drill holes.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-3.jpg|Stuff parts shown. Note the polarity of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-4.jpg|Bend component legs as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-5.jpg|Solder all 3 connections as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat for each Pop Bumper Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; LED indicator for the MA-234 auxiliary lamp driver board used in Black Hole and Haunted House.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red or green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes about 3mm apart in the locations indicated in the pictures.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mount LED with the flat side toward the edge of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The lead from the LED&#039;s flat side will be soldered to pin 2 (ground) of connector A11P1. Be sure to slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over this lead so it does not accidently short to the other connector pins.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of the 330 ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 4 (+5 volts) of connector A11P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Whenever the machine is on, the LED should be lit, indicating the auxiliary lamp driver board is receiving power. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDfrontholes.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDrearholes.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes on rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
View of the holes drilled for the LED as viewed from the front and rear of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:ALDLEDfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED installed on board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Resistor and LED wiring]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED on the rear of the board. Notice the location of the flat side of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:ALDLEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED is lit up]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Finished installation with LED lit up indicating presence of +5 volts power on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Sound/Speech Power Supply Board LED&#039;s=====&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound/Speech power supply board will get a total of four LED&#039;s! These are to indicate the presence of -12 volts, +12 volts, and +30 volts going out to the actual sound/speech board and also to indicate +24 volts coming in to the power supply board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*4 Red or green LED&#039;s&lt;br /&gt;
*2 Resistors, 1 k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 2.2k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 3.0 k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a total of eight 1/16&amp;quot; holes at the points shown in the pictures near connector A7P1. Lead spacing per LED is about 3mm. Be sure the LED&#039;s are not too close to each other to interfere with sitting flat against the board. The +12 and +30 volt LED&#039;s will mount with the flat side facing diagonally (7 o&#039;clock) toward the lower left board mounting hole.&lt;br /&gt;
#The -12 volt LED will have the lead of the round side (anode) soldered to the heavy ground trace of the board. You&#039;ll need to scrape some of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of this LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to the junction point of resistor R2 and the anode of zener diode CR2.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +24 volt LED will have the lead from the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the heavy ground trace on the board. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 2.2k resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 6 (+24 volts). Again, you&#039;ll need to scrape some of the green paint from the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +12 volt LED will have the lead from the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the heavy ground trace. You will need to scrape some of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 1 (+12 volts). You will need to scrape some of the green paint off of the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +30 volt LED will have the lead of the flat side (cathode) soldered to the heavy ground trace. You will need to scrape off some of the green paint from the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 3 k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 2 (+30 volts). You will need to scrape some of the green paint from the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#These LED&#039;s above are all optional. The board never originally came with anything to indicate presence of voltages. If you only want to install one, that&#039;s fine. I chose to install all four so I can see at a glance that all four voltages are present. You don&#039;t have to install all four if you don&#039;t want to.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture of the finished front of the board the LED&#039;s from top to bottom are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*-12v&lt;br /&gt;
*+24v&lt;br /&gt;
*+12v&lt;br /&gt;
*+30v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture of the wiring on the back (foil) side of the board, the resistors top to bottom are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1K&lt;br /&gt;
*2.2K&lt;br /&gt;
*1K&lt;br /&gt;
*3K &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDfrontholes.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes for the LED&#039;s on the front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDrearholes.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes for the LED&#039;s on the rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Views of the drilled holes for the LED&#039;s looking from the front and rear of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDlower.JPG|200px|thumb|left|+12 and +30 LED&#039;s installed on front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDupper.JPG|200px|thumb|right|-12 and +24 LED&#039;s installed on front]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All four LED&#039;s installed on the front of the board. Notice the location of the flat sides of all the LED&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLED_wiring.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring of the resistors on the rear of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDfinished.JPG|200px|thumb|right|All four LED&#039;s installed on front of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistors and LED&#039;s on the rear of the board. All four LED&#039;s installed on front of board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished and all LED&#039;s lit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All four LED&#039;s installed and lit up indicating the presence of the four different voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 80/80A Power Supply Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 and System 80A power supply board already has LED&#039;s installed to indicate the +5 volts and +12 volts. This project will add an LED to indicate the presence of the +60 volts which is used to operate the score displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 LED, any color&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 10k, 2 watts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a total of four 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes at the points indicated between the foil traces in the pictures. Try to keep the holes in a straight line.The LED installs in the top two holes and with the flat (cathode) side facing downward toward the bottom end of the board. The resistor will install in the other remaining two holes which are the also the farthest spaced. Be sure to scrape the paint off of the foil traces at the points shown in the pictures.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_holes_front.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled viewed from front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_holes_rear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drilled as viewed from rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Wiring it all up:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flat (cathode) side of the LED will be soldered to the top end of the 10k 2 watt resistor. Be sure to keep all component leads pressed down as close to the foil traces as possible to prevent shorting to the metal frame when the board is re-assembled to the metal frame. There is very little clearance between the board and the metal frame when everything is re-assembled. The lower end of the resistor will be soldered to the foil trace that goes to connector J3, pins 4 and 5 (ground). The round (anode) side of the LED will be soldered to the foil trace that goes to connector J3 pin 1 (the +60 volts). Put a short piece of heat shrink tubing or sleeving over that lead to prevent it from shorting to the trace it crosses over. Now carefully bend that lead of the LED down onto the correct foil trace as shown in the pictures and solder it. Be sure to label the new LED on the parts side of the board as &amp;quot;+60V&amp;quot;. This completes the wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_parts.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Resistor and LED mounted on board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_soldered.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Parts soldered to foil traces]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
The new LED should be lit at all times the machine is turned on. It indicates that +60 volts DC is present to operate the score displays. The other display voltage, +42 volts, is derived from the +60 volts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_finished.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation with +60v marking]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====System 80 First Generation &amp;quot;Sounds Only&amp;quot; Sound Board LED&#039;s=====&lt;br /&gt;
This board was used in early System 80 games such as Panthera. It operates on three power sources, -12 volts, +12 volts, and +5 volts. The +12 volts is obtained from the bottom panel in the machine. The +5 volts is obtained from the game&#039;s power supply board. The -12 volts is generated on this sounds only board by receiving ac power input on J1 pins 3 and 4. You can measure the -12 volts by connecting your volt meter across zener diode CR5 (1N4742A).&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;MATERIALS NEEDED&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*2 LED&#039;s, any color&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 1k @ 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohm @ 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Short piece of small diameter heat shrink tubing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two pairs of holes 1/16&amp;quot; diameter and about 3mm apart at the locations as shown in the pictures. Be sure not to drill through any foil traces.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +12 volt LED will have the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the ground trace coming from pin 6 of connector J1. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of green paint off of the trace first in order to solder it. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k @ 1/4 watt resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 1 of connector J1 (the +12 volt source). Be sure to slide a short piece of heat shrink tubing over this end of the resistor before soldering since this lead will pass over a couple of traces. This will prevent the resistor lead from shorting to those traces and causing damage.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +5 volt LED will have the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the ground trace coming from pin 6 of connector J1. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of the green paint off of the trace first in order to solder it. The other end of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 330 ohm @ 1/4 watt resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 5 of connector J1 (the +5 volt source).&lt;br /&gt;
#When finished, be sure to note that the flat sides of both LED&#039;s will be facing each other on the front side of the board. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_holes_front.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled in front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_holes_rear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drill in rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_LEDS.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED&#039;s installed on board with flat sides facing each other]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_resistors.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Wiring on solder side of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====F2 Fuse Blows At Power Up on 80A games====&lt;br /&gt;
If the F2 fuse blows at power up, there is one overlooked problem that is good to check. This could also apply to 80B games, but a different fuse may blow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the transformer panel, there is a pair of cement resistors are soldered to a solder tab, which is screwed down to a small square plastic post. Check to make sure that this has not been moved to another screw hole in the metal of the transformer panel. Screwing this line to the metal of the transformer panel ties one of the AC lines to ground. Since this line is shorted/tied to ground, it also has the side effect of making the bridge rectifier test bad, since there is a tab tied to ground when there shouldn&#039;t be one. It is likely that the bridge rectifier will test good as soon as the solder tab is moved to the correct place.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:sys80-f2-fuse-blows-issue-2.jpg|Correct place to screw the solder tab (on the square plastic post)&lt;br /&gt;
File:sys80-f2-fuse-blows-issue-1.jpg|Incorrect place to screw the solder tab. This causes a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a large and varied number of reasons that a System 80 MPU will fail to boot. Unfortunately, as has been said before, &amp;quot;this is not a Bally world&amp;quot;. That is, unlike &amp;quot;classic&amp;quot; Bally and Stern MPUs the System 80 MPU provides absolutely no indication as to why it may have failed to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Debugging a non-booting MPU is somewhat of an art. A few basic steps are listed below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure your game is providing a solid 5VDC power source&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace the orange electrolytic cap in the cabinet bottom if still original&lt;br /&gt;
#Take the board to the bench&lt;br /&gt;
#Examine the board for Alkaline damage. If present, clean up&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure the reset section of the board is working. Pin 40 of the 6502 should begin &amp;quot;low&amp;quot;, then after about 1/2 second, transition to &amp;quot;high&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the clock signals at the 6502&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the IRQ signal at the 6502. Ensure it isn&#039;t &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the R/W (read/write) signal at the 6502. Again, ensure it isn&#039;t stuck&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the address and data lines to ensure that they are pulsing&lt;br /&gt;
#Feel each of the masked ROM chips at U2 and U3 as well as the 6532 RIOT chips at U4, U5, and U6. If the IC is too hot to touch, it has probably failed and should be replaced. Note that the 6532 RIOTs run hot normally. If one is noticeably hotter than the other, that may be an indication of failure.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test each of the 74XX chips in the switch matrix (Z11 - Z15) using this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit procedure].&lt;br /&gt;
#If the board has the original masked game ROM(s), replacement with the appropriately sized ROM is advised (generally a 2716).&lt;br /&gt;
#In the case of System 80B MPUs that employ a &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;, fractured solder joints where the &amp;quot;riser pins&amp;quot; meet the daughter card are often an issue. These joints can&#039;t be examined without removing the daughter card. And, removing the daughter card is not trivial. If flexing the daughter card causes the board to boot or to crash, fractured solder joints are a solid suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Power on &amp;quot;Thunk&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80 games exhibit a &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; upon power up. The manifestation of this is the unpredictable lighting of lamps, running of motors, and actuation of coils / relays.  The symptom is unpredictable in that swapping either the driver or the MPU board might change the behavior. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; can be suppressed via a process detailed [http://www.flippers.com/gott-system80.html#thunk here] by John Robertson.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Driver Reset Front.JPG|thumb|left|200px|The addition of an MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator on the driver board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Driver Reset Back.JPG|thumb|right|200px|The addition of an MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator on the driver board w/ traces cut and jumpers run.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As an alternative to John&#039;s approach, another method has been developed. The method employs the use of a reset generator tied to the &#039;&#039;&#039;CLR&#039;&#039;&#039; leg (pin 1) of the appropriate 74175 flip-flops (those that control devices that &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot;). The reset generator is added to the front of the driver board in the upper right hand corner. There is a &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot; in this location. Solder should be removed from the star via exposing a through hole. Next, two very small holes should be drilled into the board on either side of the via. Make certain not to drill through traces on the solder side of the board, and that neither hole touches the &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot;. Next, scrape the solder mask from the two thick traces on the solder side which pass closest to the star via. These traces terminate at capacitor C1 on the driver board.  The closest trace is ground and the other trace is +5v. Next, place a MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator through the driver board. The center leg (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) will pass through the star via, while the outer legs will go through the newly drilled holes. The flat side of the reset generator should be facing the components on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
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Next, bend the GND and 5V legs of the reset generator onto the appropriate traces where the masking was scraped.  Next, the traces on Z3, Z4, and Z5 should be cut between pin 1 and pin 16. This is the wide trace at the very top of the chip. Additionally, there is a thick trace to the right of pin 1 on Z4 which must be severed. After cutting this trace, pin 16 and the isolated trace must be tied together with a jumper.  This connects 5VDC to pin 16 of Z4. Now that pin 1 is isolated from 5VDC on chips Z3, Z4, and Z5, trace wire must be routed from the center leg (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) of the reset generator to pin 1 of each of these chips. Once this modification is completed, the coils associated with these chips will no longer be pulsed when the game is turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the modification which John Robertson lays out, it may not be necessary to isolate pin 1 of Z3, Z4, and Z5 for every game. However, isolating these 3 chips accommodates most System 80/A/B games that use lamp transistors to pre-drive coils / relays. The game over and tilt relays will still pulse briefly upon turning the game on but that behavior is generally acceptable. Isolating pin 1 of Z1 and tying pin 1 to the reset line of the reset generator will resolve this residual behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the trace wire shown in the pic on the right could have been routed more elegantly.  This was in part due to an afterthought in having Z3 tied to the reset generator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; is really just a minor irritation, most owners do not think that the resolution is worth the effort. However, on some games, the thunk can be very annoying by pulsing the ball release coil under the lower apron. The result is a ball being served into the shooter lane, before the MPU board even boots up. Most System 80B Genesis games run the &amp;quot;Reveal Motor&amp;quot; as a result of the &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ResetGeneratorPinExplanation.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Part number explanation and pin configuration for various reset generators.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Other reset generators may be used as long as the pinout of the legs is observed. Shown at left is a snippet of the datasheet that explains reset generator part numbers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateDethunkFront.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Using an MCP130-460DI/TO reset generator. Take care to drill the holes so that only one reset generator leg touches the star.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DethunkAlternateBack.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Jumpers are still connected to the &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot; but the new holes are drilled in different locations.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One alternate reset generator to use is the MCP130-460DI/TO which is also used in the section that discusses System 80 MPU alkaline corrosion abatement. The installation is a bit different as is shown in the adjacent pictures. The (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) signal is on the left leg of the reset generator while Vdd (5VDC) is in the center and Vss (Ground) is on the right leg.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Erratic Boot Issues with Later 80B Games (Hot Shots, Bad Girls, and Big House)====&lt;br /&gt;
Some erratic boot issues have been observed with the following games: Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Excalibur, however, the list of games may be more extensive.  The issues included are a locked on display with garbage characters shown, no display illuminating at all, sound board not booting (LED stuck on), locked on lamps, no controlled lamps, locked on coils, etc.  The source of the problem seems to stem from the fluorescent tube starter located in the backbox.  It is unknown why exactly this anomaly occurs.  Removal of the starter should resolve the booting issues.  Worst case scenario, remove the 110v panel fuse on the transformer panel use for the fluorescent light circuit.  Unfortunately, this is the only resolution known at this time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Battery Leakage and Corrosion====&lt;br /&gt;
Like most any other pinball machine manufactured, Gottlieb® uses batteries to supply power to the non-volatile RAM memory.  Certain game settings, high score thresholds (including high score to date), audit information, and bookkeeping information are all options which are saved when the game is powered off.  And unless some kind soul, who worked on your machine before, either removed the battery and mounted it remotely away from circuit boards, or just plain removed the battery, there will be some variety of a 3.6v Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) rechargeable battery soldered onto your CPU board.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, what&#039;s so bad about having a battery on the CPU board?  Well, nothing really, unless it&#039;s forgotten, and in most cases, it is.  While you let your pinball machine sit unplayed for weeks, months, or even years at a time, the battery remains perched on the circuit board like a ticking time bomb.  I&#039;m not saying the battery is going to blow up, although some replacement non-rechargeable batteries could overheat and / or explode if not correctly installed.  The battery is like a ticking time bomb, because it is a threat to the overall health of the electronic components, traces, and connectors attached to your CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now that I have your attention regarding the whole battery thing, let&#039;s talk about the battery, and what happens. . .&#039;&#039;&#039;WHEN GOOD BATTERIES GO BAD&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It&#039;s not that some batteries were born on the wrong side of the tracks or anything. Any good battery can go bad without much warning.  It takes time, but eventually you will find that your battery has crossed over to the &amp;quot;dark side&amp;quot;.  That particular time is typically when you turn your game on, the lights come on, and that&#039;s it.  The displays don&#039;t light up. The start up sounds don&#039;t resonant. And, the silver ball stays in its comfy little home.  Nada...nothing...no signs of anything resembling a fun game of pinball.  &#039;&#039;&#039;UH-OH!&#039;&#039;&#039; So what happened?  The pinball machine worked fine the last time you played it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Well, while you were out having a good time and enjoying life, the poor, aged, neglected battery decided to wreak havoc all over the reset section, clock section, or possibly more regions on your CPU board.  The CPU battery spewing its guts all over the place is akin to the batteries in the flashlight you haven&#039;t turned on since the last power outage a year or two ago.  You go to turn on the flashlight when you need it most, and find out there&#039;s something wrong.  So being the curious type, you open the flashlight&#039;s battery compartment only to find some kind of blue-green funk leaking all over, or the batteries now look like they need a shave.  The resolution to the flashlight scenario is pretty simple. Throw it away, and buy a new one. Your CPU board problem can be resolved the same way, except it will be a lot more costly, and is not recommended to just pitch it in the trash. If the battery damage to the CPU board is not overly extensive, attempt to repair it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Typical Battery Found on a System 80 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s unfortunate, but every battery has a life expectancy.  The only silver lining is that some of the Ni-Cad batteries installed on Gottlieb® CPU boards can last longer than others.  Probably the worst culprit of board destruction is the &#039;&#039;&#039;Data Sentry&#039;&#039;&#039; pack, and its associated knock-offs.  This battery comes in a black rectangular plastic package.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:GTB sys80A battery.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical Battery Found on a System 80A / 80B CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another battery pack style which looks very similar to the NiCad battery packs found in &amp;quot;old school&amp;quot; cordless phones.  It is actually three small NiCad cells wrapped separately in an orange poly material, which is wrapped in a outer white poly material.  These don&#039;t leak nearly as badly, but they still have the potential to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Replacement nicad.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical NiCad Battery Which was Replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The final common battery style is a what looks like an AA battery on steroids.  This style is a fraction longer and fatter than an AA battery&#039;s physical form, and has two soldered leads on either end.  If you find one of these, it means the battery was previously replaced.  The good news is that this battery is newer than the original. However, the same results of battery seepage can occur.  The only benefit of this type of battery is that it can be carefully cut (in most cases) from the board without removing the board from your game.  This is a plus if no battery damage has occurred.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage03.JPG|200px|thumb|left|NiCad Battery Damage to a System 80A CPU Board&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;(Note:  This is considered very mild damage!)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage04.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Damage from the battery may also occur on the back side of the board, especially on the edge connection fingers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So what happens if you don&#039;t heed the above warnings, and the battery is allowed to remain on the board?  Plain and simple - &#039;&#039;&#039;THE BATTERY WILL LEAK!&#039;&#039;&#039;  It&#039;s only a matter of time.  Equally, the path of destruction is uncertain.  Batteries don&#039;t just leak - they release caustic, alkaline fumes.  These fumes attack wherever there is copper, even tinned or soldered copper.  The end results are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*solder joints which become green or gray and crusty as opposed to a shiny silver&lt;br /&gt;
*connectors which are also now green / gray or potentially broken&lt;br /&gt;
*solder mask, the green covering the electronic traces, on the circuit board has either flaked off or is partially delaminating (lifting)&lt;br /&gt;
*insulated wire becomes less flexible and brittle&lt;br /&gt;
*sometimes the alkaline &amp;quot;cloud&amp;quot; in the game&#039;s backbox causes every board in the head to be affected.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electronic components, related solder joints, circuit board traces, connectors, and even insulated wire will become unreliable and/or fail.  In all cases, the affected components are less conductive.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If battery damage has occurred, the related parts must now be replaced.  Attempting to remove soldered through components on the circuit board is now even more of a task.  The green / gray dull solder does not transfer heat well.  Battery damaged solder does not flow like clean solder.  Also, crimped connectors are more difficult to remove from their housings, and have a tendency to break before they can be successfully pulled out.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After all the effected electronic components are removed, the board must be treated.  This process starts by sanding the traces and solder pads until shiny copper is exposed.  It is worth mentioning that a battery damaged board can be treated by bead blasting instead of sanding, however, most people do not have access to such a machine.  After the copper areas of the board have been either sanded or bead blasted, an acidic bath of 50% vinegar and 50% (preferably distilled) water is applied to the board.  A small brush like a toothbrush can be used to scrub the board&#039;s area. The purpose of introducing an acid to the effected area is to neutralize what the battery has left behind.   The liquid and fumes from the battery are actually a base, not an acid.  Next, rinse the area of the board with water.  Once the board is clean, isopropyl alcohol (the higher the alcohol percentage the better) is applied to the same area to rinse away the acid bath, and hopefully dissipate any remaining water.  Finally, the board is either blown dry or air dried.  This may be a given, but &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT ATTEMPT TO APPLY POWER TO THE BOARD IF IT IS STILL WET!&#039;&#039;&#039;  Most liquids are conductive to some extent. After the previous steps are performed, the task of installing the new components begins.  If any traces or solder pads were damaged, see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 Repairing Traces] portion of this Wiki guide on to to fix them.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The point I&#039;m trying to ultimately make is this...regardless of age, shape, or form, &#039;&#039;&#039;remove the battery from the CPU board&#039;&#039;&#039;, as soon as it realized that there is a battery on the board.  If not, the board can be damaged, nonfunctional, and become more difficult or even impossible to repair.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing that should be done to any System 80 MPU is remove the rechargeable NiCad battery from the MPU board. All batteries leak. They are like ticking bombs. It is merely a matter of when they will leak and possibly damage (sometimes irreplaceable) boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are at least &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;five&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; methods of relocating and/or replacing the battery on a System 80/80A/80B MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the battery completely without replacing it. The 5101 memory will not store information from power-on to power-on and therefore, high scores, replay levels, and credits will be lost.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80battery.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Remote Battery]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Mount a remote battery pack that uses standard AA batteries (x3) to protect your board.  A blocking diode must be installed (1N4004, although a 1N4001 will work just as well) to prevent the game circuitry from attempting to charge the batteries. Install the blocking diode in series with the positive lead of the battery pack, with the band oriented toward the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:MemorySuperCap.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Here a 5.5V, 1F Super Cap is used to retain 5101 memory for up to 30 days]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the battery with a 1F 5.5V &amp;quot;SuperCap&amp;quot;. The capacitor will never leak, will charge during power-on cycles, and will retain 5101 memory for about 30 days. If you&#039;ve sanded traces as was done in the picture, use a non-conductive material to cover the trace under the cap to ensure that the negative side of the cap doesn&#039;t short a trace (such as clear nail polish, green overcoat pen, electrical tape, or fishpaper). Cut the tape in a circular shape and poke the capacitor leads through it so it can&#039;t fall off in the future. (Electric tape is notorious for slipping.)  An alternate solution would be get a piece of fishpaper insulator, cut that into a circle and poke holes in it for the capacitor leads.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:GTB Sys80 H Mem Cap.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Alternate method for installing a memory cap]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 H Mem Cap Back.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Tying the negative lead of the memory cap to the negative pad on the MPU board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The memory cap can also be installed in the two leftmost holes, where the Ni-Cad battery formerly resided.  The negative lead of the memory cap will then have to be tied to the negative (ground) through hole of the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remotely mount a replacement NiCad battery in a location that, should it leak, won&#039;t damage valuable circuit boards.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebCR2032.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|a CR2032 Lithium &amp;quot;Button Cell&amp;quot; Battery Installed]][[File:GottliebBlockingDiode.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|A 1N4004 Blocking Diode Installed &amp;quot;inline&amp;quot; with the Positive Connection]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the original NiCad battery with a Lithium button cell CR2032 battery and holder. The holes for the original battery can be repurposed to connect the button cell holder and to add the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;necessary&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; blocking diode in the positive side of the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Using a Reset Generator for the CPU Reset Section ====&lt;br /&gt;
If you find that the battery has leaked, alkaline damage can be cleaned up, traces repaired, and new components installed with kits available from several sources, including Great Plains Electronics.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An alternative to replacing a great many of the components is to use the Dallis/Maxim DS1811 reset generator. The DS1811-10 has a typical trip point of 4.35VDC. You may also use the Microchip Technology equivalent, part number [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460DI%2FTO MCP130-460DI/TO], available from Great Plains Electronics. Remove all reset section components, clean up residual alkaline damage, add four jumpers, and install the reset generator as pictured below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After jumpers and the reset generator are added, make certain there is continuity between the three legs of the reset generator and the appropriate locations on the circuit board.  Below is a list of the reset generator legs and the board locations.  Pin 1 of the reset generator is the left leg, when the flat side of the unit is facing towards the user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 1 of reset generator to pin 2 of Z4&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 2 of reset generator to +5VDC line (lower leg of C2)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 3 of reset generator to ground (upper leg of C2)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Using the Dallas Maxim 1811 Reset Generator&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dallas_Maxim_Reset_scaled.JPG|A System 80 MPU with alkaline damage repaired/cleaned. Reset circuitry replaced with the much simpler Dallas Maxim 1811&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80 reset gen jumpers updated.png|Illustrated picture of components to remove, keep, and jumpers to add.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dallas_Maxim_Reset_scaled_with_markup.JPG|The same image, but with indications of jumper locations (yellow dots) and where to install the Dallas Maxim 1811, flat side facing the bottom of the board. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: View at full resolution&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 MCP120 Reset Gen.JPG|200px|left|thumb|MCP120 reset generator installed with 4.7K pullup resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a reset generator with an internal pullup resistor (MCP130 series) is not available, an MCP120 reset generator can be installed.  However, an external resistor must be installed between the reset and +5v.  The easiest location to install the resistor is between the through hole where the top leg of Q4 was, and through hole where the bottom leg of Q2 was.  In the adjacent image, an MCP120-460DI/TO is installed with the 4.7K 1/4 watt external pullup resistor highlighted.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing this type of reset generator, remove all of the components, and add all of the jumpers related to the installation of an MCP130-460DI/TO reset generator.  Adding the external pullup resistor is the only additional step.  Failure to add the pullup resistor will result in the reset signal not going high, and the board will not boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Slam Switch Modification ====&lt;br /&gt;
In order to test the CPU board on the test bench, a modification must be made to the CPU board to make the CPU think that the slam switch is closed. If the CPU thinks that the slam switch is not closed, the CPU will not complete the boot process, instead booting into a mode where the displays flicker all zeros at a very rapid rate (System 80 and 80A). See the image [[Gottlieb_System_80#Open_Slam_Switch | here]] for a depiction of what you&#039;ll see.  When the slam switch is open on a System 80B game, (the appropriate games where the slam switch is supposed to be closed), an &amp;quot;OPEN SLAM SWITCH&amp;quot; message will be shown on the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® designed the slam switch as a normally closed switch. That is, the switch must be closed for the machine to operate normally. When a brute kicks the machine, the slam switch will open from the inertial force on the weight attached to the switch, and the slam switch will open. Since the CPU is on the bench, we need a way to have this switch closed at all times to properly test the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, slam switches themselves fail. It&#039;s a good idea to implement this change as a preemptive fix for slam switch failures.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Slammod.png|200px|thumb|left|Slam Switch Mod]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The slam switch can effectively be permanently closed by making a small solder bridge across two traces to the right of Z26 (which is on the lower right side of the CPU board). To permanently close the switch, remove the solder mask by scraping with a sharp knife or screwdriver. Create the solder bridge between the two now bare traces. This change will connect pin 13 of Z26 to ground, permanently closing the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DefeatSlamSwitch.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Alternative Slam Switch Mod]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Z26RemovedSlamSwitch.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Z26 removed. One can easily see that the two methods of defeating the Slam switch are equivalent.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An alternate method of achieving the same results is to solder a clipped resistor leg across the bottom of capacitor (C30) and resistor (R20), both immediately to the left of Z26.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that the last 4 Gottlieb® System 80B games were released with normally open slam switches.  Do not perform the slam switch modification on these games.  This includes the following games:&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Girls&lt;br /&gt;
*Big House&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Shots&lt;br /&gt;
*Bonebusters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
*Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Regardless of what platform the game is based on, there is only one slam switch used in a System 80/80A/80B game.  It is the weighted switch located on the coin door.  There is some confusion that the ball roll tilt and weighted tilt switch on the playfield are slam switches.  They are not.  These switches along with the pendulum tilt are all tilt switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== System 80B Daughter Card Solder Joints ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80B CPU.JPG|260px|thumb|left|A typical System 80B CPU Board, showing the location of the &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BFracturedJointsDaughterCard.jpg|thumb|right|140px|A closeup of Gottlieb® System 80B Daughter Card Male Header Pins with fractured solder joints. This board was cleanly removed from the CPU with great care.]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B game CPUs feature a &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot; to accommodate the 2764 game ROM as shown in the picture on the left. The daughter card connects to the CPU board at the location occupied by U3 in System 80/80A CPUs, via a 24 pin male header. That connection is a two-sided solder joint that can fail. As can be seen in the picture at right, these same header pins connect to the daughter card via a single sided solder joint. Since the daughter card is cantilevered over both the former location of U2 and U3, pressing on this board over time commonly results in fractured solder joints (as seen, right) at the single sided joint and sometimes at the two-sided joint.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typical symptoms of fractured solder joints at this location are failure to boot, random resets, and random lockups. Sometimes pressing on the daughter card will &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the issue temporarily. This is a sure indication of fractured solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Correction of this issue is easier said than done. And, if you do not possess the tools, skills, and experience to desolder the daughter card, this task is best left to a professional pinball circuit board repairman. Desoldering the 24 pin male header pins from the delicate solder pads without damaging the pads or pulling traces is non-trivial.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U2U3AdapterGPE.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Replacement daughter card engineered by Great Plains Electronics. &#039;&#039;Image used with permission from Great Plains Electronics.&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A recommended replacement for the daughter card is the re-engineered daughter card from Great Plains Electronics, which can be found at: http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=140-101. This card is designed to be fitted into both the U2 and U3 location, eliminating the problem of board flex and cracked solder joints. It is recommended to fit the replacement card into quality machine pin sockets, then fit the entire assembly into the CPU board for soldering. The card is also designed with redundant traces for all but a few of the signals as almost all signals are present at both the U2 and the U3 location.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Continuity Chart of Pinouts for Damaged U2 / U3 Area=====&lt;br /&gt;
It is far too easy for inexperienced &amp;quot;repairmen&amp;quot; to tear up the traces or eyelets at positions U2 and U3 when attempting to remove the daughter board from the System 80B MPU.  If the traces or through holes are damaged, clearly they must be repaired.  Nearly all of the signals which pass from U2 and U3 continue on to the 3 RIOTs at U4, U5, and U6 and also to the PROM 1 position. Below is a handy chart which can be used to ensure continuity between critical parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U2 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U3 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U4, U5 &amp;amp; U6 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U1&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
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| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;21&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;BAB12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z10 Pin 12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;21&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;/BAB12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z7 Pin 10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;22&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;22&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;18&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A9&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;23&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;23&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;--&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;17&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;font color=RED&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A8&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;24&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;24&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;20&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;+5V&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternate to the Daughter Board on System 80B MPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Alt D-Board.jpg|thumb|left|200px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Raven No D-Board jecourie.jpg|thumb|right|150px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Raven)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Alt D-Board_Back.jpg|thumb|left|200px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 - Back Side (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Raven No D-Board back jecourie.jpg|thumb|right|150px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 - Back Side (Raven)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB_Sys80B_Alt_D-Board_Cut_Trace.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Trace cut on an 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ====&lt;br /&gt;
A great place to source power for your logic probe while diagnosing the board is across the filter capacitor in the vicinity of connector J1. Connect the black lead of your logic probe to the negative lead of the capacitor for ground. Connect the red lead of your logic probe to the positive lead of the capacitor for 5V. The red lead can also connect to E1, the vertically-aligned 5V jumper wire, below the 6502 chip. Take care to ensure that the clips don&#039;t short to adjacent components.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Future Update****This section works for now, but we can generalize bench power supply construction here:&lt;br /&gt;
[[Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board is much easier to work on if it is removed from the backbox and placed on the test bench. An AT-style PC power supply can be used to power the MPU board on the bench. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Obtain an old PC power supply. If you don&#039;t have an old computer laying around, head on off to the thrift store and pick one up. Remove the power supply from the case by unscrewing the appropriate screws. Be careful not to unscrew the power supply case itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PowerSupply.png|200px|thumb|left|Power Supply]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Clip one of the connectors from the power supply wire bundle and clearly mark on the power supply box the value of each of the colored wires from the power supply. Typically, the yellow wire is 12V, red is 5V, and the black is ground. Strip insulation from the end of the red wire and the black wire as the System 80 MPU requires only 5V and ground to boot. Use alligator clips to connect 5v and ground to the appropriate J1 connection. I use larger alligator clips to make the connection easier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MPUPower.png|200px|thumb|left|J1 Connector]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Mark connector J1 where the positive and negative (common) connection is for the five volts from the computer power supply. The ground connection is on the top of the connector, the 5V connection is on the bottom. The image shows A1J1 with the markings. I took the picture with the board still mounted in the machine. Connect the 5v supply with alligator clips to the positive connector on J1 and the black wire (ground) to the negative connector of J1.&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it! you&#039;re good to go!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====List of Acceptable TTL Chip Substitutes on a System 80 CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Several years ago, Ed from GPE replied to a System 80 chip substitution question on rec.games.pinball [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/msg/86f37cb479ece4c4 here] and later on Pinside [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-chip-replacement#post-4139713 here]. The info from those responses are summarized below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Most of the parts can be freely substituted.  But many cannot.  The clock oscillator circuit (Z3) is one example of a part that cannot be subbed.  Also, some IC&#039;s have hefty loads and cannot be subbed (some of the 7404&#039;s and a 7432).  The 7474 in question on this board can be freely subbed with a 74LS74 or a 74HCT74.  I went through all the standard logic devices on the Gottlieb System 80 MPU.  Based on loading and output characteristics, this is what I get as valid subs for the System 80 MPU.  Of course, substituting some of the parts will ripple through and allow others to be substituted as well - but this can get quite convoluted.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip Designation&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Substitute (Y/N)&lt;br /&gt;
!Acceptable Substitutes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z1 || 4528 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z2 || 7474 || Y || 74LS74 and 74HCT74&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z3&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(1)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || ? || Possibly 74LS04 and/or 74F04; See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z4 || 4081 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z7 || 74LS04 || Y || 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z8 || 7402 || Y || 74LS02 and 74HCT02&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z9 || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z10&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(2)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 74LS05 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z11&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z12&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z13&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z14&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z15 || 7432 || Y || 74F32 and 74S32&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z16&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(5)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z17 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z18 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z19 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z20 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z21 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z22 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z23 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z24 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z25 || 74154 || Y ||74LS154 and 74HCT154&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z26 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z27 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z28 || 74LS139 || Y ||74HCT139&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z29 || 7416 || Y ||7406&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z30 || 7416 || Y ||7406&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z31&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(6)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7408 || Y ||74LS08&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z32 || 7417 || Y ||7407&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z33 || 74154 || Y ||74LS154 and 74HCT154&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z34&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)(8)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || Y ||74LS04, see note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z35&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || Y ||74LS04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z36 || 4069 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(1)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z3 cannot use a 74HC04 or 74HCT04, since these have &amp;quot;high impedance inputs&amp;quot; and won&#039;t work properly in an oscillator circuit. A 74LS04 should work, and possibly 74F04, but the better candidate would be a 74LS04. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(2)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Untested, but it may be possible to use an 74LS00 or 74HCT00 at Z10 in place of 7405. However, this will defeat the ability to test the MPU using the [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=120-102 QuickScan80 tester].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z11 &amp;amp; Z12 only have to sink ~2mA, so they might be able to be replaced with 74LS04, but this might result in noisy switching.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z13 &amp;amp; Z14 are in the switch matrix. 74LS00 might a possible substitute, but substitutions can result in noisy switching, and isn&#039;t recommended here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(5)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: If Z18, 20, and 22 are 74175, do not substitute.  If Z18, 20, and 22 are 74LS175 or 74HCT175, acceptable subs are 74LS04 and 74HCT04.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(6)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z31 can use 74LS08. 74HCT08 can be used as well, but 74HCT08 is not a good board-to-board driver, and isn&#039;t the best option here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: 74HCT04 can be used at Z34 &amp;amp; Z35 as well as 74LS04, but 74HCT04 is not a good board-to-board driver, and isn&#039;t the best option here. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(8)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Had issues with a 74LS04 installed at Z34 in a Haunted House. The side effects were the lower playfield VUK would fire and partially lock on when the lower playfield 5-bank drop target would reset.  Also, the 5-bank drop target would continuously tried to reset when the lower playfield VUK switch was closed. The issue acted as if there was a switch matrix issue, but there wasn&#039;t.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing the quartz crystal with a TTL Oscillator====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Alkaline corrosion may damage the board in such a way that it&#039;s advantageous to replace the original quartz crystal oscillator with a TTL oscillator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_logic_sys80.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Clock section of the system 80 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:oscillator.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The original crystal, Z3, and a few resistors may be replaced with a 900 kHz TTL Oscillator that is packaged like this 16Mhz version.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 clock signal is produced by a 3.57Mhz crystal, a few resistors, and Z3 (a 7404). Z2 divides the clock by 4, resulting in a clock signal of approximately 900 KHz, which is provided at pin 9 of Z2.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you cannot find a 900 KHz TTL oscillator (I couldn’t) you can also use the 1MHz variant, and tune your pin up a little bit. ;-) Game play shouldn&#039;t be impacted, as long as the game doesn&#039;t have a timer related feature, like Timeline. Even games like Timeline will be minimally impacted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_system80_vorher.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The original clock section as found on every System 80, 80A and 80B MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_system80_nachher.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The clock section after installing a TTL oscillator.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To accomplish this mod, remove the following parts&lt;br /&gt;
*Y1 (Crystal)&lt;br /&gt;
*Z2 (TTL 7474)&lt;br /&gt;
*R3, R4 und R5 ( the three resistors above Z2). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Z3 is still needed for other functions. Leave it in place. Now place the oscillator in the Z2 position, with the ‘dot’ in the upper left corner (Pin 1). Because we need the clock signal at pin 9, jumper from pin 8 to pin 9 at the original Z2 position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game Resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games sometimes exhibit &amp;quot;resets&amp;quot;, especially when high power coils fire. Assuming you&#039;ve updated the power supply grounds and reflowed or replaced the header pins on the Power Supply, there are a few typical causes for System 80 resets.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 bad caps.JPG|140px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Filtering Capacitors]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#The 12VDC filter capacitor in the cabinet bottom which, if still original, should always be replaced. Originally, this was a 6800uf/25V capacitor. Replace with a 6800uf to 12,000uf/25V cap such as [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=RCT123M025V3550B&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat=| this one] from Great Plains Electronics. The filtered 12VDC is regulated down to 5VDC on the power supply board.  Note that some games have two of these capacitors (as shown). Note: purchase a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=VR3A&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= VR3A capacitor clamp] from Great Plains Electronics when replacing the large capacitor for a clean looking job.&lt;br /&gt;
#The bridge rectifier that originates the 12VDC&lt;br /&gt;
#Missing, broken, or failed coil diodes&lt;br /&gt;
#Poor 5VDC power connections between the power supply and the MPU. The female connector on the MPU connects 5VDC to the MPU via molex crimp-on pins and a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; edge connector pad. Ground is connected in the same way. But you&#039;ve done the ground mods, right?&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A / 80B Resets====&lt;br /&gt;
A failed or failing reset board can &#039;&#039;cause&#039;&#039; resets.  The reset board may cause problems all of the time, or just when the game is under stress, like multiball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To see if the reset board is the problem, disconnect it.  If disconnecting the reset board resolves the issue, there are two fixes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Replace the large caps (C3 and C4).  These have dried out over the years and screw up the timing of these boards.&lt;br /&gt;
* Leave the reset board disconnected&amp;amp;mdash;if someone will always be in the general vicinity of the game to turn it off should the CPU lock up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When first trying to get a System 80A or System 80B game to boot properly, it is best to disconnect the reset board until the game is working.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors C3 and C4 are both 470 uf @ 16 volts. C1 is a 47 uf @ 16 volts. Be careful when unsoldering these capacitors as the foil traces are very delicate. The connector pins also develop bad solder joints so it is wise to resolder it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Updating a dual game PROM MPU (1st generation) to a single game PROM configuration (2nd generation)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted earlier, the first five system 80 games used both sockets at PROM1 and PROM2, populating them with 512 byte masked ROMs. Should one of these ROMs fail, you may be able to find a replacement, but they are becoming more pricey, more difficult to find, and are still prone to failure as they age.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A more flexible solution would be to update the MPU to use a single 2716 UVEPROM at the PROM1 socket. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Modifications must be made to both the solder side and the component side of the board. See the pictures below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Component side modification:&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the trace that extends from the left of Z10 between pins 6 and 7. A Dremel with a &amp;quot;ball shaped&amp;quot; cutter bit works beautifully for this. In the second picture below, the cut has already been made. I&#039;ve filled the cut hole with black Sharpie! to better show the location of the cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder side modifications:&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the traces leading to PROM1 socket, pins 19 and 21. Again, the cuts have been highlighted with black Sharpie!&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 19, to the PROM2 socket, pin 21 (connects A10)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 21, to the PROM2 socket, pin 24 (connects +5V to Vpp)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 22, to the PROM2 socket, pin 18 (connects A9)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from Z10, pin 13 to the via just below and to the right of Z9 (as you view the back of the board)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Your MPU board is now configured for any System 80 game. All that remains is to acquire a 2716 EPROM containing the game&#039;s code. If you have the original ROM images, the DOS command to combine them is shown below. Modify as appropriate to match the file names you have.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b prom1.bin + prom2.bin combined.716&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU may also be used in a System 80A game if U2/U3 are updated, and in a System 80B game if considerably more mods are made which frankly, just aren&#039;t worth it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 1st Generation to 2nd Generation Board Updates&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DremelBallCutter.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Dremel Tool with &amp;quot;Ball Cutter&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Z10TraceCut.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut in trace extending Left from Z10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PROM2-to-PROM1JumpersAndTraceCuts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;PROM2-to-PROM1 Socket Cuts and Jumpers&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Z10-Pin13-to-ViaJumper.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper connecting Z10, pin 13 to a &amp;quot;via&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a 2732 at the PROM2 position in a System 80B MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
====...in games that &amp;quot;normally&amp;quot; use a 2716====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to use a 2732 at position PROM2 with an MPU jumpered to use a 2732 for a game that normally populates that position with a 2716. Simply &amp;quot;double-up&amp;quot; the 2716 ROM image, and burn it into a 2732.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS command to accomplish this is ... copy /b image.2716 + image.2716 image.2732&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====...using an MA-1133 or MA-774 MPU in games that REQUIRE a 2732====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80B games require 4K of code space at PROM 2, which dictates a 2732 EPROM. An MPU built to use a 2716 EPROM at PROM2 can be modified to work, as is discussed below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU schematics of game manuals, such as &amp;quot;Bad Girls&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Big House&amp;quot;, state that E3 is directly connected to AB15 (address bus 15).  However, there is no mention of the factory modification (outlined below) performed on CPU boards stamped MA-1133.  Equally, should the user have an MA-774 CPU board, (used in games starting with Chicago Cubs Triple Play and ending with Robo-War), this modification can be performed to use the board in the following games.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Excalibur&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Girls&lt;br /&gt;
*Big House&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Shots&lt;br /&gt;
*Bone Busters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
*Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PROM2 is actually located at the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot; on the PCB. The area on the board marked &amp;quot;PROM 2&amp;quot;, which has solder pads but no socket, is a legacy carried over from the first generation System 80 CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following information was taken from a service bulletin located in the back of the 1992 Gottlieb® parts catalog.  This modification makes AB15 available to PROM 2, allowing the use of a 2732 EPROM at this position. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This procedure can be used in reverse if you have an MA-1133 board and you need to use a 2716 at position PROM2.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#If jumper E4 is installed, remove it. You will find the top of the E4 jumper located immediately to the right of the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a jumper at E3. This connects the pad marked E3 to the dual pad marked E4.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, follow the trace from the pad marked E3 Southeast 1/8 inch, then South about 1/2 inch to a via. &lt;br /&gt;
#Find this via on the component side of the board. It will extend to the left to another via.&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the trace between the two vias.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a jumper from TC1, pin 35 to the right solder pad of the via which was just cut.&lt;br /&gt;
#All other jumpers should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80B PROM 2 2732 Update&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_sysS80b_2732_prom2_front.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;E4 removed, E3 installed, and trace cut below E3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB sysS80b 2732 prom2 back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper from TC1 pin 35 to E3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 drvr pw.png|160px|thumb|left|The System 80A / 80B Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Driver board is responsible for all controlled lamps, relays, and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;all solenoids&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via a simple interface between A1J4 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.  Although the driver board went through some minor changes over the years, the same board can be adapted for all of the System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; total of 52 &#039;&#039;&#039;lamp circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the interface provides &amp;quot;device select&amp;quot; signals for each of the 74175s (Quad-D Flip-Flops) on the driver board, and 4 &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; of data that is loaded (or &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot;) into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives an MPS-A13 or MPS-U45 transistor, (NDS-U45 transistors were used in place of MPS-U45s in some cases). &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that there are some dedicated transistors, which control specific game relay coils across the System 80 / 80A platforms.  Relays such as the game over, tilt, and coin lockout relays are controlled by Q1, Q2, and Q3 respectively.  The tilt and game over relays use the same designation for the System 80B platform, however, the use of a coin lockout relay was abandoned by this time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_drvr_board_coin_ctrs.JPG|160px|thumb|left|Driver Board with Coin Counter Transistors Highlighted ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;solenoids circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the driver board uses signals directly from the CPU to enable transistors on the driver board which turn on up to 9 solenoids.  For solenoid control, the driver board uses MPS-U45, 2N3055, and 2N6043 transistors.  Starting and ending with the System 80 platform, (games from Spiderman to Haunted House), three transistors were reserved to drive optional mechanical coin counters. These mechanical coin counter solenoids and associated transistors are: solenoid 3 (Q54), 4 (Q55), and 7 (Q56). Starting with the System 80A platform, (Devil&#039;s Dare), these transistors were no longer reserved for coin counters, and were used for other functions. Equally, the 3 diodes associated with these 3 transistors were changed to 3 zero ohm jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;sound&#039;&#039;&#039; signals (S1, S2, S4, S8) also pass through the driver board at Z13, a 7404 Hex Inverter. See below for S16 and S32.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Repurposed Driver Board Circuits====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb under pf transistor.JPG‎|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Remote Transistor Mounted Under the Playfield]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since quite a few System 80 games employ more than 9 solenoids, and since the original driver board design will drive a maximum of 9 solenoids, Gottlieb® repurposed some lamp outputs to drive &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot; which drive additional solenoids.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb ma1011 trans board.JPG‎|160px|thumb|left| A Typical Transistor Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once playfields became littered with numerous &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot;, Gottlieb® opted to merge some of these transistors into a transistor driver board.  The transistor driver board started to appear on Gottlieb® games nearly midway through the System 80B platform, with the game Victory.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound S16 and S32 signals are also repurposed lamp outputs. For instance, Haunted House and Black Hole both repurpose L9 to S16. Robo-War repurposes lamp 4 to S16. Note that S16 is not consistently implemented across the System 80 family. Note also that references to the usage of S32 are difficult to find.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 driver screws.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Nuts / Screws Which Secure the 2N3055s Collector to Drive Line]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Make certain to inspect and tighten the screws which secure the 2N3055 TO-3 transistors to the driver board.  Specifically, the screws / nuts as marked in the pic.  They tie the transistor cases (collector) to the respective solenoid drive lines.  If these cases are not secured, the transistors will not function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Remote Mounted Transistors==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:UnderPFTransistor.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Under Playfield Transistor, with Emitter, Base, and Collector Labeled]]System 80 games have just nine dedicated solenoid circuits on the driver board.  To overcome this threshold, Gottlieb® added step-up transistors mounted to brackets underneath the playfield. Early on, a lamp driven transistor is used to &amp;quot;pre-drive&amp;quot; the larger solenoid transistor. However, there are instances where a solenoid transistor is used to pre-drive a remoted mounted transistor.  Eventually, Premier got smart and started mounting up to three transistors to PCBs, but only on later 80B games (Arena and newer). These PCBs were mounted behind the game&#039;s display board or on the side wall of the lower cabinet.  In some cases, primarily 80B games, the game&#039;s diagnostics will drive these transistors during test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 80 games, under playfield transistors were originally 2N5875s or 2N5879s. The failure rate of the original transistors tends to be rather high. 30 years can be a long time for a transistor of that technology. Should one fail, it can be replaced with its beefier siblings&amp;amp;mdash;2N5883 or 2N5884. An MJ2955 will work also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games used a mix of 2N5879 transistors and MJ2955 transistors for driving flash lamps and coils.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A ground wire is always connected to the tip of the transistor (collector) and leads to ground. On System 80 games, this wire is green/yellow (Gottlieb® wire color code 54).  On 80B games, ground wires are plain white with no trace (Gottlieb® wire color code 9).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;emitter&amp;quot; should be connected to the lug of the coil that has the non-banded side of the diode facing it (black-blue-blue in this picture).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; should be connected to the drive wire from the driver board (brown-red-red in this picture).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solenoids which use a remote mounted transistor cannot be enabled by temporarily grounding the pre-drive transistor&#039;s tab to ground. This test is typically performed to check the integrity of the wiring from the drive transistor to the solenoid.  This test however does not confirm if the drive transistor is good or not. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Remote Mounted Transistor Update=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Remote transistor circuitry.png|left|thumb|180px|Gottlieb® Remote Transistor Circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During the run of Black Hole, Gottlieb® released a service bulletin recommending that the existing 10Kohm pullup resistor be changed to a 4.7Kohm resistor when changing from a 2N5875 to a 2N5879 or equivalent.  Affected Black Hole games were marked serial number 6271 to 9160.  However, there were several games prior to and after Black Hole, where a pullup resistor was never installed.  And, don&#039;t always bank on the playfields installed in a game being original to the cabinet&#039;s serial number.  Case in point is a recently acquired Black Hole where the main playfield had a factory pull up resistor for the ball release coil transistor, but the 3 coils on the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole#Pull_Up_Resistors_Added_to_Remote_Transistors_.28Centrally_Located.29_on_Lower_Playfield lower playfield which use remote transistors] did not have the pull resistors added.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It is highly recommended to add this resistor.  This upgrade will decrease the chances of particular solenoids, which use a remote mounted transistor, from locking on when the game is powered up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Pullup circuitry.png|left|thumb|180px|Gottlieb® Remote Transistor Circuit w/ Pull Up Resistor Upgrade]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 4.7K resistor is soldered to the base of the remote mounted transistor, and then tied to the 24vdc solenoid bus.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Power On &amp;quot;Thunk&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
Due to the driver board design, certain solenoids and / or relays can pulse briefly as soon as a game is turned on.  To rectify the issue, please refer to the [[#Power_on_.22Thunk.22|Power on Thunk]] section above.  This applies to potentially all System 80/80A/80B games, where the solenoid / relay signal passes through one of the 74175 chips on the driver board.  &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Correcting Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb&#039;s implementation to control solenoids was, at a top level, identical to every other game manufacturer. Power is present at the coil, sometimes routed through the &amp;quot;Game Over&amp;quot; relay. A path to ground is switched on by a transistor which is enabled by upstream TTL logic. For the System 80 platform, this TTL logic is located on the MPU board. Signals are conveyed from the MPU to the driver board via the A1J4-to-A3J1 wire harness. These signals directly switch a path to ground on for one of the 9 designed-in solenoid circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted above, to accommodate game implementations needing more than 9 solenoids, Gottlieb repurposed some of the lamp driver circuits, driving 2N5875 (generally) transistors either screwed to the bottom of the playfield, or located on dedicated transistor boards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solenoid problems can be divided into two simple categories, solenoids that do not engage and solenoids that are &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot;. Correcting these two situations is discussed below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Solenoid Doesn&#039;t Turn On=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, note that not all solenoids are always tested by the built in solenoid diagnostics. The first example of this is the coin counter solenoids (numbered 3, 4, and 7). To avoid artificially incrementing the coin drop counters, these coils are not pulsed. Other coils may be pulsed during lamp test. This is most often the case with System 80B games, using repurposed lamp driver circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Problem Determination Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the game turned on and a game started, use a DMM to measure for coil power at the coil lug (generally either 24 or 38VDC). Power should be present at both lugs of the coil. If present on the coil lug attached to the banded side of the diode and not present at the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode, then the coil winding or it&#039;s attachment to one of the coil lugs is open.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Next, test paths to ground for the coil. Attach a wire with clip leads to game ground. Any green wire with yellow stripe will work fine. First, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;BRIEFLY&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; touch the other end of the wire to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;non-banded&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; side of the coil lug. The coil should pull in. If it does not, then either the coil winding is open or the coil wire is not securely attached to the coil lug. Next, identify the driver board transistor that switches ground for the solenoid in question. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;BRIEFLY&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; touch the other end of the wire to the tab (MPS-U45 or 2N6043) or case (2N3055) of that transistor. The solenoid should pull in. If it does, this proves the path from the coil to the transistor, but doesn&#039;t prove anything about the transistor. If it doesn&#039;t pull in, then there is a break in continuity between the transistor and the coil. Likely suspects are the connector pins, the IDC connection of the wire to the connector, and the actual wire itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At this point in the process, we know that the coil has power, and the path to ground via the transistor is valid. The next step is to test the actual transistor. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing an MPS-U45 (or NDS-U45) or an MPS-A13 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for one of the flanking legs.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between 1.2 and 1.4 should be displayed for the other flanking leg.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing a 2N6043 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for each flanking leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TO-3Case2N3055.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Emitter, Base, and Collector parts of a TO-3 form transistor, like the 2N3055. Note that the emitter and the base pins are closer to one end of the TO-3 case.]]&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing a 2N3055 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the metal casing of the transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the legs in turn.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for one of the legs.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement of &amp;quot;null&amp;quot; (no reading) should be displayed for the other leg.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on the &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; lead of the transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the other lead of the transistor (the &amp;quot;emitter&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the case of the transistor (the &amp;quot;collector&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ol start =4&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Test the output signal from the MPU at the driver board. This test completes the test of the driver board circuitry. If this test doesn&#039;t identify a problem, then the problem must lie upstream with the inter-board harness or on the MPU board itself. With a logic probe, and the game in solenoid test, probe the following points for solenoids 1 through 9. 1 - non-banded side of CR6, 2 - R53, 3 - non-banded side of CR2, 4 - non-banded side of CR4, 5 - R56, 6 - R59, 7 - non-banded side of CR4, 8 non-banded side of CR1, 9 - non-banded side of CR5. With the game in Solenoid test, each solenoid should be pulsed in order, with the pulse easily detectable with a logic probe on the appropriate spot. Note that the coin counter solenoids will not be pulsed in test, and games that don&#039;t use every solenoid won&#039;t pulse unused solenoid circuits. Consult the manual for solenoid numbering for a particular game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Test the output signal of the TTL circuitry on the MPU. Solenoids 1 through 9 are all enabled via signals from Z29 and Z30 on the MPU board. Both ICs are 7416s. Z29 pins 2, 4, 10, and 12 drive solenoids 1 through 4 respectively. Z30 pins 2, 4, 6, 10 and 12 drive solenoids 5, 6, 8, 9, and 7 respectively (note the order is not strictly ascending). If the output signal on the MPU is present, but the signal is not present on the driver board, then the problem is probably the inter-board connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Solenoid Locked On=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A solenoid (or flasher) that is &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot; is caused by coil power having a continuous path to ground. Remember, coil power is always present at the coil when a game is started and the game over relay is powered (for System 80/80A/80B games). 99.9% of the time, this continuous path to ground is caused by a shorted drive transistor; either an under-playfield transistor, a transistor on a transistor board, or a transistor on the driver board itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, a locked on coil will heat up, burn through the insulation on the coil windings, and cause direct shorts between windings. This effectively reduces the length of the wire and hence, the resistance. Once the resistance is reduced to less than 2 ohms or so, the continuous current through the transistor and the coil cause both to be irreparably damaged. For this reason, if you find a transistor shorted, check the associated coil. Likewise, if you find a coil shorted, or with significantly reduced resistance (ohms), check the associated transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some solenoid driver circuits, like solenoid 8 that uses a 2N3055, are &amp;quot;pre-driven&amp;quot; by an MPS-U45 (or NDS-U45). Be sure to test the associated pre-driver transistor too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Lamp problems are common with most any pinball machine, and Gottlieb® System 80/A/B games are no exception.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For controlled and GI lamps, Gottlieb® System 80/A/B games use either a #44 or #47 lamp.  The choice of which lamp to use is the preference of the game owner.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For games with flash lamps, a #67 bulb is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is highly recommended &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; to replace or remove lamps with the power to the game on.  There are primarily two reasons for this.&lt;br /&gt;
#Some lamp sockets must have their mounting brackets bent back to access the bulb for replacement.  In turn, the potential of inadvertently shorting one lamp socket to another is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
#Lamps are constructed of an equal balance of glass and conductive metal.  If a bulb slips out of one&#039;s grasp when trying to remove or install with the power on, there are many areas in the bottom of the cabinet, where the metal of the bulb can short across.  A short across other circuits could potentially lead to other unplanned or otherwise unnecessary repairs needed to perform.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So in short, change or remove bulbs with the game&#039;s power off, just to be safe.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All System 80 games have three separate lamp circuits, and some have a fourth.  The circuits are comprised of:&lt;br /&gt;
*General illumination for the backbox&lt;br /&gt;
*General illumination for the playfield&lt;br /&gt;
*Controlled lamps for primarily the playfield, although, there can be four controlled lamps located in the backbox (shoot again, high score game to date, tilt, and game over), depending on the era of the game.&lt;br /&gt;
*Auxiliary lamps used for effect, such as chaser lamps used around the backglass border of Mars God of War and Black Hole.  Auxiliary lamps are not used on all games.  Jump to the [[#Auxiliary_Lamp_Driver_Boards | Auxiliary Lamp Board section]] to see what games use auxiliary lamps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are several approaches used to determine the source of a lamp problem, and how it can be resolved.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
      &lt;br /&gt;
====Bad Bulbs====&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing when troubleshooting lamp problems, and this may seem blatantly obvious, but determine whether the lamp is good or not.  The bulk of all lamp problems are simply burned out light bulbs.  Always try a known good bulb as the solution first. Don&#039;t rely on the bulb being brand new either.  The ratio of brand new, bad bulbs is slim, but there is that chance a new bulb is not good.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Dying battery.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Making certain an old 9v battery is putting out an acceptable lower voltage]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Testing bulb.JPG|thumb|right|200px|Testing a 6v bulb with a dying 9v battery]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The bulbs used in a System 80/A/B game are powered by ~6 volts, (the exception is the bulbs powered for the lower [[#Replacing_Black_Hole_Lower_Playfield_Illumination_Lamps_with_.2344_Lamps | playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House]]).  A great way to quickly test a bulb is to use a dying 9v battery.  Don&#039;t use a fresh 9v battery, or you will shorten the life of the bulb.  Find a battery that is roughly putting out 7v - 8.25v.  An old battery from a smoke detector works pretty well.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Place the tip of the bulb on one of the battery terminals, and cock the outer metal casing of the bulb to touch the other terminal.  Orientation of the bulb with regards to the positive and negative terminals does not make a difference in this case.  Do not hold the bulb across the battery terminals for very long.  Just long enough to determine if the bulb&#039;s filament is lighting or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may also use a known working socket to test bulbs in...but that requires the game to be on while testing...which always presents some risk and is not recommended.  However, if there is no other option but to use a known good socket for testing bulbs, the preferred method is to use a socket located in the backbox lamp insert panel.  This unfortunately does not pertain to 65% of the System 80B games, because a fluorescent lamp was used for backbox illumination for them.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Games that have not been played in a long time develop a film of corrosion between the lamp &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; and the lamp socket which prevents conductivity. Simply removing the lamp and scratching the nipple with something abrasive (like rubbing it on the lockdown bar receiver) may fix many &amp;quot;lamp out&amp;quot; problems. In some cases, a light socket cleaning stick (available from the Pinball Resource [http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html here]) may be useful for cleaning the lamp socket. Gottlieb® lamp sockets are comparatively beefy and do not fail often.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Lamp Power Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
Next, make certain there is power at the lamp socket.  The game will have to be turned on for the following procedures.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====General Illumination Lamp Power Issues=====&lt;br /&gt;
GI lamps are powered by ~6VAC.  When testing a GI lamp socket for power, each lead of the DMM (now set in AC mode) will be placed on the two leads of the lamp socket.  If there isn&#039;t power at the lamp socket, suspect a bad fuse first.  Keep in mind that the playfield GI and backbox GI for System 80, 80A, and a few 80B games (the first 3 80B games and the last 2), have two separate fuses located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet.  These are typically higher amperage rated fast-blo fuses. The backbox GI on a System 80 game is always on when the game is turned on.  If the backbox GI fuse is good, and no backbox lights are lit, the inline connection which feeds the GI could possibly be bad.  Unfortunately, this connection is not standard from game to game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80TiltRelayAnnotated.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Gottlieb® System 80 Tilt Relay with GI Lamps/Tilt Lamp Make-Break Switch Highlighted. This tilt relay is from a Gottlieb® Spiderman]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The playfield GI is always powered on too, except when the game is in tilt mode.  If the game was not tilted and /or the tilt switches are not stuck closed, check the switch stack on the tilt relay.  These switches can sometimes get bent or misaligned.  If the playfield GI fuse is good and the tilt relay switches are good, the inline connections may be suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the fuse to a particular GI circuit is bad, and continues to blow every time a new fuse is installed, a short is probably causing the issue. A shorted lamp GI circuit is probably the worst and most difficult lamp related issue to resolve.  In most cases, the GI power lines are uninsulated wiring, which make them susceptible to shorted circuits.  First, determine if the GI short originates on the backbox lamp insert or on the playfield.  GI shorts on the playfield are typically more common than backbox lamp insert shorts.  Pop bumper lamps are generally not CPU controlled, and are included in the playfield GI string (some System 80B games are the exception, [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1975 RoboWar] being an example).  Also, depending on the game, star rollover lamps and kickout hole lamps are sometimes part of the playfield GI circuit.  Consult the game manual for these particulars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although it can be a pain and time consuming, the best approach is to remove all of the bulbs in the associated shorted GI string.  In removing all of the bulbs, we are trying to isolate whether the problem is a bad, defective bulb, or one of the GI power lines is shorting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Controlled Lamp Power Issues===== &lt;br /&gt;
Controlled lamps are powered by ~6VDC.  When testing a controlled lamp socket, the red lead of the DMM (now set in DC mode) will be placed on the lamp socket mounting bracket.  The bare wire soldered to the lamp socket&#039;s mounting bracket is the power bus not the ground bus, so be careful.  The black lead of the DMM will be placed on ground. If working under the playfield, the ground plate in the bottom of the cabinet is a good place to connect to ground.  If working in the backbox, find where one of the green wires with a yellow trace is screwed to the metalwork, and place the lead on it.  Depending on the game, System 80 side rails, lockdown bar assemblies, and other associated trim metalwork, except the coin door, were not grounded from the factory like Bally, Williams, and Stern.  Therefore, using any of these as a ground reference is not recommended.  Gottlieb® did start grounding the metalwork at the start of the System 80A platform.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there isn&#039;t any power at the lamp socket, suspect a bad fuse first.  The controlled lamp circuit has a separate fuse on the transformer board, and is normally a 5 amp slo-blo fuse.  If the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_fuses fuse tests fine], there is a separate set of switch leaves on the tilt relay, which pass the controlled lamp power to the playfield lamps.  Inspect and adjust these switches if necessary. If the controlled lamp fuse and the switches on the tilt relay both test good, there may be an issue with the source power connection to the rectified DC circuit on the game transformer board. Unfortunately, System 80/80A/80B used different connector designations for controlled lamp source power for different games. Consult the game manual / schematics to find the source of 6VDC on the transformer board power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the fuse for the controlled lamps is bad, and continues to blow after a new fuse is installed, suspect a bad controlled lamp bridge rectifier.  The lamp bridge rectifier is located on the transformer board.  Please see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier Testing a Bridge Rectifier] portion of the PinWiki guides. Before testing the bridge rectifier, try to isolate it as much as possible.  By isolating it, this will minimize the possibly skewed readings caused by attached devices (lamps and the power transformer).  Two key things to do would be to remove the lines which connect the bridge to the playfield and backbox lights, and remove the controlled lamp fuse. Keep in mind that a bridge rectifier can fail in such a way where it may not blow the controlled lamp fuse.  Although, a failed bridge blowing a fuse is a tad more common than not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of the above tests good, there may be a short on the controlled lamp bus line.  This is not a very common occurrence, but it can happen.  Inspect the underside of the playfield for any wires or brackets touching the controlled lamp bus line, which shouldn&#039;t be touching.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bad Lamp Sockets====&lt;br /&gt;
Third, determine if the lamp socket is good.  Some games have been through the wringer, and the sockets didn&#039;t hold up too well due to abuse, a damp environment, or other various reasons.  Start by turning the &#039;&#039;&#039;power to the game off&#039;&#039;&#039;.  If the socket has some corrosion, try using a lamp socket cleaning tool first.  If a lamp socket cleaning tool is not available, a small wire brush used for cleaning copper fittings, a rolled up piece of 220 grit sandpaper, or a Dremel tool with a small wire brush attachment can all be used.  After the socket has been cleaned, place the bulb in the socket for the following procedures.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If testing a &#039;&#039;&#039;GI lamp&#039;&#039;&#039; socket, use the dying 9v battery trick again. Remove the fuse of the particular GI circuit which the lamp socket being tested is located.  Connect the terminals of the 9v battery to the bulb socket with alligator clip leads.  Be careful not to short the alligator clips to each other at the battery&#039;s terminals.  Equally be very careful not to short the clip leads to an adjacent switch on the pinball machine, or anything else for that matter.   One clip will connect to one side of the socket, and the other lead will go to the other side of the socket.  &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT ALLOW THE BATTERY TO STAY CONNECTED VERY LONG&#039;&#039;&#039;.  Since this is a GI lamp circuit, other lamps in the string will be powered by the battery.  If the battery is connected to the string for too long, the battery will start to get hot.  The battery does not have enough power to light a string of bulbs for very long.  The lamp may only glow dimly, but that is enough to determine if the socket is good or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If testing a &#039;&#039;&#039;controlled lamp&#039;&#039;&#039; socket, remove all of the connector housings from the bottom of the driver board first (A3-J2/J3/J4).  Then remove the fuse for the controlled lamp circuit.  Clip one lead of the battery to the lamp socket mounting bracket and the other to the solder tab.  The orientation of the negative and positive leads of the battery terminals makes no difference.  Again, keep the battery connected just long enough to see if the lamp lights to determine whether the lamp socket is good or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp(s) Will Not Turn On=====&lt;br /&gt;
So, the bulb is good; the socket is good; there&#039;s power at the socket; and the lamp still won&#039;t light.  Well, this occurrence can only really happen if there is a controlled lamp involved.  If all three of the above things apply, it can only mean one thing - the bulb is not getting properly grounded, and will not turn on.  The source of this problem may be due to several different issues.  But, it is best to start at the bulb socket, and work backward towards the CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Determine if the connector and wiring from the output of the driver board to the lamp socket is good.  While the wires are usually solid, the single sided edge connectors are a frequent cause for loss of conductivity. Simply &amp;quot;buzzing&amp;quot; the connection from the lamp socket back to and onto the driver board may uncover the issue.  With the power off, check the continuity between the solder tab of the lamp socket and the collector (right leg) of the associated lamp transistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is continuity, it’s time to test the transistor. Transistors fail &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; (lamp never lights) and &amp;quot;shorted&amp;quot; (lamp is constantly on). A simple comparison of &amp;quot;diode check&amp;quot; readings between &amp;quot;same type&amp;quot; transistors on the driver board can identify failed transistors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing an &#039;&#039;&#039;MPS-A13&#039;&#039;&#039; transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to diode test&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;red&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead of your DMM on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing an &#039;&#039;&#039;MPS-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; transistor (or &#039;&#039;&#039;NDS-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;CEN-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; which are equivalents).&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to diode test&lt;br /&gt;
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;red&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead of your DMM on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingMPS-U45WithMPS-A13.jpg|200px|left|thumb|An NDS-U45 replaced by the less expensive MPS-A13. This replacement is advised ONLY if the transistor drives a single lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80/80A/80B architecture does not utilize a lamp matrix. Controlled lamps are driven by individual transistors on the driver board, exactly like Gottlieb® System 1 games and Bally/Stern 6800 games. Driver board operation is pretty simple. The CPU places a signal on Logical Device lines 1 through 4 (LD1...LD4) and &amp;quot;strobes&amp;quot; the appropriate 74175 device select pin to latch the LDx values into the 74175 Quad FlipFlop&#039;s outputs. These outputs then drive the associated transistor(s) on, providing a path to ground for the lamp. That&#039;s all there is to it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transistors on the driver board are a mix of 2N6043s, MPS-U45s (or NDS-U45s), 2N3055s, and MPS-A13s. 2N6043s drive coils. Generally, the MPS-U45 transistors drive coils, pre-drive coils via remote mounted transistors and 2N3055s, or drive more than one lamp. The 2N3055s drive coils (in some cases, not all 3 of these are used in a game). The MPS-A13s generally drive a single lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MPS-A13 transistors are still widely available and cheap. MPS-U45s are obsolete but may be replaced with CEN-U45 transistors [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=cen-u45&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= available from Great Plains Electronics] and Mouser.  A much cheaper MPS-A13 may sometimes be substituted for the less common and more expensive MPS-U45, as shown in the pic at left for Q22. Although this will work, you must ensure that the transistor is driving only a single lamp. This obviously limits the &amp;quot;portability&amp;quot; of the driver board. If Q22 were used to switch anything other than a single lamp on, it will be destroyed. Substitute with caution. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2N6043 transistors used on the driver board are still available but becoming pricey. 2N6043s can be replaced by a TIP-102.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; A nice convention Gottlieb® used with System 80 games is that lamp &amp;quot;n&amp;quot; is driven by transistor &amp;quot;n+1&amp;quot; on the driver board. This is always true.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the transistor tests fine, a gate on the 74175 may be bad, which is rare but does happen. Use a logic probe on the input and output of the associated lamp gate to check definitively.  Again, comparing the signal between different drive pins can help identify a failed driver circuit. 74175s can easily and reliably be tested using the procedure in the &amp;quot;General for all games&amp;quot; section, [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit here].  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If more than one controlled lamp is not lighting, check the game’s manual / schematics to see if the bulbs are related in some way. &lt;br /&gt;
*When four lamps are not lighting, it may appear that the 74175 which controls the lamp transistors is at fault. This can happen, but the more commonly related issue is that the device select signal for a particular 74175 is lost between the CPU and driver board.  This can be due to a bad connection at A1J4 or A3J1.  See the chart below for the lamp device select signal path. &lt;br /&gt;
*When a whole group of lamps fail to light, review the schematics to see if the lamp transistors share a common ground path. Again, poor connections at the driver board, or the path to ground (generally green with yellow tracer or solid white wire) on the bottom board ground strap may be the root cause.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the connections, associated 74175, and lamp transistors are all correct, the circuitry on the CPU board is probably at fault.  Again, using a logic probe to determine which component on the CPU board has failed is the best course of action.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Device Select&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;CPU Connector&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Driver Input&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Driver Quad Flip-Flop (74175)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Transistor #s&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Lamp #s&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS1 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-C&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-C&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q1-Q4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Game Over relay, Tilt relay, coin lockout, L3&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS2 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q5-Q8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L4-L7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS3 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-E&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-E&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q9-Q12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L8, sound 16, L10, L11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS4 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-D&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-D&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q13-Q16&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L12-L15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS5 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-H&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-H&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q17-Q20&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L16-L19&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS6 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-F&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-F&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q21-Q24&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L20-L23&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS7 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-K&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-K&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q33-Q36&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L24-L27&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS8 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-J&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-J&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q37-Q40&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L28-L31&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS9 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-M&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-M&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L32-L35&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS10 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-L&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-L&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L36-L39&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS11 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-N&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-N&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L40-L43&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS12 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-P&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-P&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z12*&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;Q45-Q48 &amp;amp; Q49-Q52&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L44-L47 &amp;amp; L48-L51 (inverse of L44-L47)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;*Z12 not only outputs four lamp signals like all the other 11 74175s, but it also outputs four inverted lamp signals.  These signals are typically used for lamps located on opposite sides of the playfield which alternate on / off between each other.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp(s) Will Not Turn Off=====&lt;br /&gt;
If a single lamp is involved, or only a handful of lamps with different lamp device select signals, suspect the lamps&#039; associated drive transistors.  If a group of four lamps will not turn off, and they are all controlled by the same 74175, suspect the associated 74175 or the device select for that 74175 (&amp;quot;DS&amp;quot; on the schematics). If numerous groups of four lamps will not turn off, suspect the associated 7404 on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
*Z17 for DS1-DS5 device select signals or,&lt;br /&gt;
*Z24 for DS6-DS11 device select signals or,&lt;br /&gt;
*Z26 for DS12-DS16 device select signals.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the lamps involved originate from more than one group of device select signals, suspect the 74154 at Z25 or, backing up one more step, the 6532 RIOT at U5.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamps===&lt;br /&gt;
Flash lamps are #67 powered by the 24VDC solenoid bus.  They are controlled like any of the coils that have a under-playfield transistor.  To step down 24V to a more lamp-friendly 13V, the power is routed through a single 4 ohm 7 watt resistor for powering paired flash lamps wired in parallel.  An 8 ohm 5 watt resistor is used for powering single flash lamps. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On early 80B games, the power resistors are mounted to a small bakelite board under the playfield (up to 4), and the transistors are mounted to a bracket (up to 6).  On later games, starting with Arena, new PCBs were introduced that had the transistor, power resistor, and 4.7K pullup resistor all on the same board (up to 3).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If lamps are locked on, or won&#039;t work, the remote mounted transistors associated with them have failed.  Generally, the pre-drive transistor on the driver board has also failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Under-playfield flash lamp transistors are 2N5879s or MJ2955s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Aux Board Headers.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Reflowed Header Pins on Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For issues with lamps controlled by the auxiliary lamp driver board, follow the troubleshooting section for controlled lamps [[Gottlieb_System_80#Controlled_Lamp_Issues | above]].  Additionally, make certain that +5vdc and ground are present on the auxiliary driver board.  If either are missing, the potential for cracked header connections is possible.  Remove the existing solder from the header connections, and resolder the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Unconventional Lamps====&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games added quite a few special lighting effects.  Gottlieb® never used software when hardware would do.  This is probably harkens back to their electromechanical days.  So, there are usually some creative, different ways used to control lamps.  For instance:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Monte Carlo and Spring Break have Auxiliary Lamp Driver boards where power to a bunch of #44 lamps is switched by a relay.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Genesis drives #67 lamps with an auxiliary power board.  Power to this board is controlled via a relay that turns itself to activate the &amp;quot;reveal&amp;quot;; this relay is activated by a lamp driver, but the relay will keep itself on until one revolution of the reveal gimmick is done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Spring Break has eight #44 lamps controlled by one relay; the relay is controlled with a lamp driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Diagnosing these is generally the same as other lamps, but first, understand the peculiar arrangement for the game in question.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Switch Matrix Operation ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb System 80 switch matrix is implemented via the 6532 RIOT (RAM, I/O, Timer) at U4, strobe ICs at Z11 and Z12 (7404), return ICs at Z13 and Z14 (7400), and DIP switch &amp;quot;read enables&amp;quot; at Z15. The switch matrix simply provides a TTL &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; pulse on a single switch matrix column, then listens for a &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; return on the switch rows. Closed switches complete the circuit and enable a switch matrix return. Switch returns are processed then the next column is strobed. The game software &amp;quot;debounces&amp;quot; all switches to accommodate less than electrically and mechanically perfect switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Common Switch Matrix Faults ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isolating Switch Problems to the MPU or the Game Wiring =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since Gottlieb uniquely used edge connectors instead of more common header pins, isolating switch matrix issues to either the MPU or to the game wiring is not quite as easy. However, &amp;quot;jumping&amp;quot; from a switch column to a switch row is possible using the same technique. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into switch test&lt;br /&gt;
*Using a short length of wire, short each column drive to each row return, one at a time&lt;br /&gt;
*A single switch closure should be shown as each connection is made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a single switch closure is shown for each and every connection made, then the MPU circuitry is probably undamaged, and the playfield wiring, switches, and diodes should be examined. If a switch closure isn&#039;t registered, or more than one switch closure is reported, then the MPU circuitry is damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== MPU Switch Matrix Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Blown Switch Matrix ICs ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80SwitchMatrixICs.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Identifying the System 80 MPU switch matrix ICs. Z15 is just below Z11/Z12.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80MPUBlownZ13.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Diode testing Z13 uncovers a shorted IC caused by shorting HV to the switch matrix wiring.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The most prevalent reason for switch matrix failures is shorting high voltage (i.e. coil voltage) to the switch matrix. As always, it&#039;s inadvisable to work on your game with the power on. Sometimes, &amp;quot;fish paper&amp;quot; designed to isolate switch blades from higher voltage conductors becomes displaced, shorting high voltage to the switch matrix, and damaging some/all of the switch matrix ICs. An example of such a switch is the kicking target under the upper playfield in Haunted House.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A quick check of Z11 through Z15 using the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit diode test] will reveal failed ICs easily. An example is pictured at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this same diode test on U4, comparing the results to U5 and U6, may help to identify a failed RIOT.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Alkaline Damaged Connectors ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Playfield switch wiring is connected to MPU edge connector J6, which is sometimes directly below, but at the very least in close proximity, of the OEM NiCad battery. These batteries frequently leak their corrosive contents onto the board, affecting nearby connectors, including the switch matrix connectors at J6 (playfield) and J5 (cabinet). Close examination of the friction pins in the connector as well as the copper traces at the edge connector may reveal alkaline corrosion impacting proper switch matrix operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Playfield Switch Matrix Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the switch matrix issue has been isolated to the playfield, follow the tips listed in the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#The_Switch_Matrix Switch Matrix Diagnosis] section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One additional item to note is that Gottlieb did not attach isolation diodes directly to switches. Instead, isolation diodes are collected on &amp;quot;diode boards&amp;quot; which are screwed to the playfield underside or the cabinet bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
The blue Futaba display glasses used by Gottlieb® System 1 and 80 machines are a fairly reliable, long-lasting display.  Although, they can and do still fail.  It&#039;s just a matter of diagnosing the symptoms of a failed display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Display problems can primarily be classified into the following categories:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Power problems&lt;br /&gt;
#Display glass failure&lt;br /&gt;
#Data problems&lt;br /&gt;
#Tired displays&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 displays.png‎|thumb|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A displays.png‎|thumb|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Power Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before even attempting to work on System 80/80A/80B displays, there are two caveats to heed.  First and foremost, the displays function due to the necessity of several voltages, including high voltage.  &#039;&#039;&#039;IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON HIGH VOLTAGE CIRCUITS, THEN DO NOT WORK ON THESE DISPLAYS!&#039;&#039;&#039;  High voltage can hurt or even kill you.  If you don&#039;t feel comfortable working around this type of scenario, then hire a professional to do the work.  Secondly, any time a display connector needs to be disconnected, &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT REMOVE ANY DISPLAY RELATED CONNECTOR WITH THE POWER ON!&#039;&#039;&#039;  This goes for the connectors located directly at the display, connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the CPU board, A2J3 on the power supply board, and A7J3 / A7P3 (early System 80 up to Mars God of War), A10J1 / A10P1 (when used), A12J4 / A12P4 (Black Hole and after), or A10J7 / A10P7 (when used) from the transformer.  Removing connectors with the power on can damage the display, the CPU board, and / or you.  Sorry to &amp;quot;yell&amp;quot;, but it is extremely important to stress the above two statements.  Now that this is out of the way, let&#039;s move on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As stated above, the displays need several sources of voltage to function properly. The display voltages used are broken down by the type of display: +60VDC and 5VAC with a positive 8VDC offset are used for the 6-digit displays; +42VDC, +5VDC logic (for the 7432 chip - Z1), and 3VAC with a positive 4VDC offset are used for the 4-digit status display. When using a 6 digit display with DI513 Dionics chips, +5VDC is necessary for RP1 and RP2, both 8.2K resistor networks. Likewise, 7 digit displays also have a 7432 chip on them, and +5VDC is needed for them too. If any of the above voltages are missing, the display will never light.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Prior to plugging in and turning the game on for the very first time, it is a good practice to check all of the fuse values located on the transformer board first. There is a 1/4 amp slo-blo fuse used for the display voltage, which is located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet.  With the game unplugged from the wall outlet, remove the fuse from its fuse holder.  When checking fuses, never &amp;quot;eyeball&amp;quot; a fuse.  Your eyes may tell you that the fuse is good, but your eyes can fool you.  Use a digital multi-meter (DMM) or a continuity tester to check fuses. Put each lead of DMM on opposite ends of the fuse.  A tone should be heard.  If not, the fuse is bad, and should be replaced with the same value.  Fuses are used to protect equipment, the surroundings, and you.  Installing fuse values with higher ratings is very dangerous. &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT USE A FUSE RATED AT A HIGHER RECOMMENDED VALUE!&#039;&#039;&#039;  If the existing fuse is blown, it may not necessarily mean there is a problem.  Fuses do get stressed, and sometimes just fail.  However, there is more than likely a problem somewhere in the display power train.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game still unplugged, the next course of action is to place connector A2J1 on the power supply.  A2P1 is the bottom connection on the power supply, and receives all voltages directly from the transformers and a single ground from the ground strip.  Once A2J1 is connected, remove any other connections from the power supply (A2J2 and A2J3).  All voltages should be tested before any boards or displays are connected to them.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_psu_A2J3_highli.JPG|left|thumb|200px|System 1 Power Supply with A2J3 highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At this point, plug the game in, and turn it on.  Using a DMM or volt meter, check all of the voltages at A2P3.  For the +60VDC (A2P3-1) and +42VDC (A2P3-3), any ground connection can be used as a reference. The +42VDC is derived from the +60VDC.  If there is +60VDC, but not +42VDC, The 18v CR6 zener diode or the R5 resistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the two high voltages test all right, it&#039;s time to check the offset voltages.  The offset voltages are +5VDC (A2P1-6) and +8VDC (A2P1-9).  Use any ground connection as a ground reference to test these voltages.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If displays are not lighting, but either the +42VDC is present on the display (status display) or the +60VDC is present on the 6 digit or 7 digit displays, check for the presence of AC voltage used to power the display filament.  Do not use ground as a reference when measuring these voltages, as they are AC.  Measurements must be taken from the send and return lines.  If the AC voltage is missing, check the in-line connection at A7J3 / A7P3 (early System 80 up to Mars God of War) or A12J4 / A12P4 (Black Hole and after).  Also, some games have more connectors which pass the AC voltages.  These additional connectors are A10J7 / A10P7 or A10J1 / A10P1. Check the voltages on the input and output of the connector to see if fatigued connectors are the source of the voltage loss.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all the display voltages are satisfactory, it is time to move onto the next step of visually inspecting the display boards for obvious defects.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====What is the DC Offset Voltage?=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ACSineWave.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Representation of AC voltage with and without a DC offset component. Note the red sine wave is shifted &amp;quot;up&amp;quot; by the DC component.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DCOffsetClip.jpg|right|thumb|200px|A snippet from a typical System 80 schematic showing &amp;quot;DC offset&amp;quot; voltages connected to the center tap of the transformer secondary where AC filament voltages originate.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Futaba displays as used in Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games require AC power that is &amp;quot;offset&amp;quot; by a specific DC voltage; 8VDC for the 6/7 digit displays, 5VDC for the 4-digit credit/match display. The DC component of the AC voltage raises the AC sine wave by that DC voltage. If the offset voltage is missing, inconsistent or wavy displays will result.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Glass Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Good display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with a good display glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NippleGuard.jpg|200px|thumb|right|A cheap and easy way to protect your nipples]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The simplest and easiest problem to identify is display glass failure.  All of the 6 digit displays used by Gottlieb® System 80, and 7 digit displays used by System 80A games will have a black &amp;quot;blotch&amp;quot;, for lack of a better term, in the upper left and lower right corner of the glass.  The 4-digit status display typically has only one black blotch.  The evidence of a black blotch or blotches is good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bad sys1 display1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with Broken Nipple on Back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
However, if there is a muted white blotch visible at the corners of the display, it means the display&#039;s &amp;quot;vacuum&amp;quot; has been compromised, either due to a cracked glass or broken nipple. If this is the case, the display glass can not be repaired and is useless.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A simple, cheap, and effective way to &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;protect the glass nipple&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; is to cut a ring of hose (garden hose was used in the picture at right), place it around the nipple, and then fill the ring with silicon caulk (preferred) or hot glue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Broken top filament1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with Broken Top Filament. Note that this is the Dionics chipset version of the display.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The display filaments within the glass can also break.  The end result will be segments with missing sections or &amp;quot;hot spots&amp;quot; when the display is powered.  The &amp;quot;hot spots&amp;quot; are caused by the &amp;quot;dangling&amp;quot;, broken filament shorting to other good filaments.  If a display filament breaks, do not use the display as shorted displays can damage other game components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Example Display with Failed Filament&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilamentOFFAnnotated.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Another example of a broken filament. This one has broken and shorted to another part of the display.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilamentScoreOverall.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The same display, showing a dark line across the center where the filament has failed.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilament.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Closeup of same display.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Even though the glass itself is bad, the chips on the display board may still be good.  So don&#039;t necessarily discount the display as being all bad.  UDN6118A and 7432, (chip used on status display only), chips are getting more costly, and Dionics DI513s are very scarce.  Since the display board is single sided, removal of the chips is quite easy.  Plus, the display PCBs are no longer being made.  The display board and / or chips may come in handy some time in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====UDN6118 and Other Display Logic Chip Failures====&lt;br /&gt;
The majority of 4 and 6 digit displays utilize two UDN6118 &amp;quot;Vacuum Fluorescent Display Drivers&amp;quot;. These ICs do not fail often. However, when they do fail shorted, they can affect the performance of the rest of the display set.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingUDN6118AndUDN7180.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Test method for a UDN6118 or UDN7180 display driver. Colored dots represent DMM probe locations (red lead, black lead)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
UDN6118 driver ICs can be tested using a DMM. Click on the image at left for the procedure.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;A Blown UDN6118 Display Driver&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:UDN6118BlownTopSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Damage is hard to photograph, but the outline of the overheated chip core can be seen.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:UDN6118BlownBottomSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A much more visible image of the heat damage.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb4DigitGlassSegmentCLockedOn.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A 4 digit display with segment &amp;quot;c&amp;quot; locked on, caused by a failed 7432 on the board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Gottlieb 4 digit displays use two UDN6118s and a single 7432. The 7432 can fail in such a way as to cause segments to lock on, as shown in the picture at left showing segment &amp;quot;c&amp;quot; locked on. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Data Problems==== &lt;br /&gt;
When there are display issues, one first has to determine whether there is a problem with the display itself, the connectors involved, or the chips on the CPU board that control it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;NOTE: Do not connect or disconnect the display connectors or connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the MPU (right hand side) with the power on! Doing so WILL damage the MPU board display logic ICs.&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following applies to System 80 and 80A displays.  For information regarding the System 80B display board, scroll down to the end of this section.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebDisplaySegmentDigitOutAnnotated.jpg|340px|thumb|left|An excellent image to show both digit and segment problems. Note the red circles showing the same digit out on for players 1 and 3. Also note the yellow circles showing segment &amp;quot;g&amp;quot; out for players 1 and 2.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Issue Isolated to a Single Display&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem is only showing up one display, suspect that the connector at the display itself is problematic, or there is an issue on the display board.  Problems on the display board can consist of a bad solder joint, a broken display lead from the display glass, or faults with the driver chips on the board (Sprague UDN6118 or Dionics DI513, if an old System 1 display is used).  The exception is if only 4 displays and a status display are used, which is common to most System 80/80A games.  In this display configuration, if there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;segment issue&#039;&#039;&#039; with the status display, there may be an issue with the segment drive chip on the CPU board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80LockedHSegment.jpg|340px|thumb|left|An example of a display showing segment &amp;quot;h&amp;quot; locked on. The segment was locked on for both the player 3 and player 4 displays. This was caused by a failure of the 7404 at Z16. This picture was snapped right after pressing the diagnostic button on the coin door. The display should be blank.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Issue With Multiple Displays&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem shows up on two or more displays, suspect one of the two connectors on the CPU board (A1J2 or A1J3), one of the two connectors on the two displays (they are daisy-chained with an IDC connector), or the chips which control the display data on the CPU board.  If there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;digit issue&#039;&#039;&#039;, the issue will be present on &#039;&#039;&#039;player 1 and 3&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;player 2 and 4&#039;&#039;&#039; displays.  If there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;segment issue&#039;&#039;&#039;, the issue will be present on &#039;&#039;&#039;player 1 and 2&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;player 3 and 4&#039;&#039;&#039; displays, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;status display&#039;&#039;&#039;.  If more than 4 scoring displays are used, on games such as Pink Panther, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, etc., consult the game manual for display digit and segment mapping.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 displays.png‎|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A displays.png‎|550px|right|Gottlieb® System 80A Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The charts listed below, map out each signal to each specific display.  The first chart maps the display digit information, while the second and third charts map the display segment information.  This information only applies to games where 4 scoring displays and 1 status display are used, although digit group names have been added, if more displays are used.  All of the charts apply to System 80 and 80A, but not 80B.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Digit Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Digit Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Display(s)&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D16 (80A only) || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group F) || A1J3-16 || Z26-8 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D1 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-1 || Z17-4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D2 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-2 || Z17-6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D3 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-3 || Z17-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D4 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-4 || Z17-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D5 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-5 || Z17-8 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D6 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-6 || Z24-2 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D13 (80A only) || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group F) || A1J3-13 || Z26-4 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D7 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-7 || Z24-4 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D8 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-8 || Z24-6  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D9 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-9 || Z24-12 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D10 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-10 || Z24-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D11 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-11 || Z24-8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D12 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-12|| Z26-2 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D13 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-13 || Z26-4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D14 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-14 || Z26-6 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D15 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-15 || Z26-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D16 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-16 || Z26-8  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group A Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group A || A1J2-1 || Z19-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group A || A1J2-2 || Z19-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group A || A1J2-3 || Z19-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group A || A1J2-4 || Z19-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group A || A1J2-5 || Z19-9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group A || A1J2-6 || Z19-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group A || A1J2-7 || Z19-14&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group A || A1J2-8 || Z16-12 &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group B Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group B || A1J2-9 || Z21-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group B || A1J2-10 || Z21-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group B || A1J2-11 || Z21-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group B || A1J2-12 || Z21-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group B || A1J2-13 || Z21-9 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group B || A1J2-14 || Z21-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group B || A1J2-15 || Z21-14 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group B || A1J2-16 || Z16-10  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group C Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group C || A1J2-17 || Z23-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group C || A1J2-18 || Z23-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group C || A1J2-19 || Z23-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group C || A1J2-20 || Z23-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group C || A1J2-21 || Z23-9 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group C || A1J2-22 || Z23-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group C || A1J2-23 || Z23-14 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group C || A1J2-24 || Z17-2  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Display Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayDivotAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A System 80B Display edge connector. One data conductor to the display was not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; across the connection due to a corrosion &amp;quot;divot&amp;quot;. This caused the entire display to remain blank. Reflowing the edge connector solder corrected the issue. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebEdgeConnectorDivots.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Another System 80B Display edge connector, this one with corrosion marks on it. The corrosion also caused the entire display to remain blank. Reflowing the edge connector solder corrected the issue. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80Bs displays are completely different how the digits and segments are decoded and driven.  Unlike System 80 and 80A, where the decoder chips are located on the CPU board, the System 80B display has a single segment (U3) and two digit decoder chips (U1 &amp;amp; U2) located on the display board itself.  Unfortunately, both of these chips (10941 &amp;amp; 10939 respectively) were a product of Rockwell International, and are not that prevalent.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has been observed that if any of the display data signals are missing between the CPU board and the 7417 inverters on the display board, the two displays will not illuminate at all.  If voltages on the display board are within spec, it may be advantageous to check all of the data signal edge connector pins on the CPU board and the display board. If both the edge connector and the female connectors look good, use a logic probe to ensure signals are getting to the input side of both 7417 (or later 74LS367) inverters on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that the System 80B jumpers, that replace the 7448s at Z19 and Z21 on System 80 and 80A boards, can be a source of discontinuity due to cracked solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has been observed that some of the earlier System 80B games are more prone to the display randomly being blank upon turning on the machine. Rock and Raven are the most common with this issue, however, the first three 80Bs, Chicago Cubs, Tag Team, and Bounty Hunter, are susceptible too. The best recourse is to repin both A1-J2 and A4-J1 / 1A4-J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rejuvenating Tired Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System1-80DisplayBrightUp.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Rejuvenating tired System 1/80 displays]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 displays, especially those that haven&#039;t been turned on for a long time, sometimes fade. These displays can be rejuvenated by applying voltage to the outside pins of the display glass. Note that voltage should be applied to the display glass pins, NOT the card edge pins. This process &amp;quot;burns&amp;quot; the impurities that accumulate on the filaments off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture at left, general illumination power (7VAC) from the lamp insert panel is being used to rejuvenate a display.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. Turn the game off&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. Remove the connector from the display&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. Connect jumper clips from a voltage source to each of the outside pins of the display glass. Note that the lower the voltage applied, the longer the display can tolerate this &amp;quot;rejuvenation&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is why some techs choose to use the lower GI AC voltage for this purpose.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. Power the game on for 1 minute.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Disconnect the jumper wires and reconnect the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. Power on to test the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7. If the display still isn&#039;t bright enough, repeat this process for 1 minute each time, until the display is satisfactorily bright.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that if the display filaments, which run across the display horizontally begin to glow orange (or worse, white), too much voltage is being applied or the display has been connected too long. This risks burning one or more of the display filaments out and ruining the display. A cautious, 1 minute at a time, process is warranted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note also that one particular System 80 tech (&amp;quot;System 80, not just a job, it&#039;s an adventure&amp;quot;) suggests that merely leaving the game powered on for 24 hours will accomplish the same rejuvenation.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Does Not Light====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:gottlieb-display-broken-legs.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Broken legs on display glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
If the glass of a 6 or 7-digit display does not light, but there are no white spots in the corners (white spots indicate bad glass), the outer-most legs on the glass may be broken. A magnifying glass may be necessary to inspect the pins since the gap in the breaks may be extremely small. The outer-most legs are responsible for supplying power to the glass, which is why the glass would not light in this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These legs may be broken especially on displays that have a green or blue plastic filter covering them. These legs can get broken after someone presses down on the plastic cover of the display when pushing the display onto the PCB supports mounted on the light board in the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To repair, line up the two broken halves of the leg with needle-nose pliers, heat, and solder. If the solder isn&#039;t sticking, lightly sand back some of the black tarnish with fine sandpaper or a fiberglass eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 Display Test 19 Never Starts====&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games provide a display test (number 19). The test &amp;quot;walks&amp;quot; all digits, from 0 to 9, through all displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A failed 6532 RIOT at U5 can cause the game to appear dead, as if awaiting an input. The display test will never commence.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Individual 6-digit Display Interferes With Other Displays==== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, a particular display can interfere with the operation of other 6-digit/4-digit displays no matter which game or player position it is plugged into. These symptoms can include:&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing digits to go missing on other displays&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing certain digits to dim significantly on other displays&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing certain digits to display garbage or non-numbers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of these symptoms is a bad R1 resistor. When powered off, the resistor will give the correct reading. However, the resistor may fail when power is applied. The R1 resistor (10k ohm, 1/2 Watt, 5% resistor) may need to be replaced if the above symptoms are present.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Individual 7-digit Display Causes Other Displays To Go Blank====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, a particular display can interfere with the operation of the other 7-digit/4-digit displays no matter which game or player position it is plugged into. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a particular display causes all other displays to go blank, the likely cause is a failure of the Z2 6118P chip, which drives the digits of the display. This chip can be replaced with the more commonly found UDN6118A chip. Also keep in mind that it&#039;s possible the 7448 and the other 6118P controlling the segments could be damaged as well, so be prepared for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===All Other Display Issues (Not Caused by Displays)===&lt;br /&gt;
There are several issues which appear to be display related, however, they ultimately are not.  In these instances, the displays are used instead as a visual identifier of a particular issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Open Slam Switch==== &lt;br /&gt;
If after turning a System 80 game on, and the scoring displays turn on immediately without a 5 second delay, there is a problem.  However, if the displays are showing all of the outer segments (all segments necessary to display a zero) lit, and &amp;quot;strobing&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;rolling&amp;quot; rapidly as simulated in the image below, this isn&#039;t a display problem. The cause of this problem is an open slam switch on the coin door. To address this issue, see the PinWiki section [[#Slam_Switch_Modification | Slam Switch Modification]].&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb 6digit slam scaled.gif|500px|thumb|left|Simulation of displays indicating an open slam switch. Note the &amp;quot;rolling&amp;quot; perimeter display segments.]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====All Displays Dim or at Half Brightness====&lt;br /&gt;
This applies to System 80/80A games with 6 or 7 digit displays. If all the displays appear dim or at about half brightness, check the 60v test point on the power supply. If it reads about 30-35v, then the dim display issue is caused by the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the power supply, Q2 regulates the 60v, so if that component has failed, or if there is a problem with the solder joints or pads on the back of the board, this can result in half the voltage for the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Carefully inspect the back of the power supply for cracked solder joints or through-hole pads that have popped off the PCB. Because Q2 has a large/heavy heat sink, the component tends to move around lot, which may cause these issues. If nothing is apparent with a visual inspection, test for continuity between Q2&#039;s legs and the traces on the PCB .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:gottlieb-sys80-psu-q2-pad-problem.jpg|thumb|250px|left|The pad for the center leg of Q2 has separated from the PCB and will need to be repaired]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Before doing any kind of work, or blaming the sound board for not putting out sound, review the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting section] first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In particular for System 80 games, ensure that the dip switches that enable sound are set correctly. And, ensure that the dip switch actually works. Games like Spiderman use one of the 32 MPU dip switches to enable background and scoring sounds. Games like Haunted House, Black Hole, etc use dipswitch 5 on the Sound and Speech board to enable background sound.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The Long and Winding Road of the Sound Signals====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound signals follow very roundabout path before reaching their destination on the sound board.  Sounds S1, S2, S4, and S8 are originated on the MPU board by RIOT U6.  These 4 sound signals then pass through a 7404 inverter (Z27), pass through a 7408 2 input AND (Z31), and exit the MPU board via the A1J4 connection (MPU / driver board interconnect harness).  The signals enter the driver board via A3J1, pass through another 7404 inverter (Z13), and exit the driver board via A3J5.  Finally, they enter the sound board via the only connection on the sound board, A6J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If any of the sound signals are lost, this potentially happens due to poor edge connections, however, 7404s are known to fail too.  The best way to check for discontinuity is to use a DMM or ohmmeter to check the path from the exiting chip to the chip it enters on the following board.  Another method for checking for signal loss is a logic probe.  This method is not as simple though, because some generations of System 80s do not have a sound test.  Therefore, waiting for a particular signal to trigger can be tricky.  The benefit of using a logic probe is to determine if a particular signal is entering and exiting a specific chip, and if the signal transforms (if it is supposed to) like intended (ie. the 7404 will invert the signal from high to low or low to high).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some sound boards use a fifth sound signal, known as S16.  S16 is actually driven by an MPS-A13 like any other single lamp drive. S16 can follow a very convoluted path too, depending on the particular game.  For example, Haunted House uses S16.  It originates on the MPU with all of the other lamp signals, and becomes lamp drive Q10 on the driver board.  It exits the driver board via A3J2, passes through a inline connector, A10J4, passes through another inline connector, A12P4, and finally reaches the sound board at A6J1.  That is a lot of mileage for just 1 little sound signal!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games, starting with Rock, which use the dual 6502 processor sound boards, use Q5 as sound signal S16.  Please be aware that the System 80B documentation does not always notate this information regarding S16!!!  In this case, S16 follows a much simpler path.  It exits the driver board via A3J2 and goes directly to the sound board at A6J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, if appears that certain sound signals are missing or the wrong sounds are triggered, suspect a bad connection first.  Then, suspect a bad 7404 within the sound signal path.  Then, check all other potential problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that the 7404 U7 located on early System 80 sound boards (sound only) do fail also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 Sounds Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound Board (Sounds only)]]&lt;br /&gt;
This board, first used in Panthera, is problematic to fix. The main issue is that the board uses the long since obsolete 6503 processor (think of it as a short 6502) and a &amp;quot;masked ROM/RIOT&amp;quot; 6530. The 6530 was specifically programmed for Gottlieb sound boards. They are therefore, impossible to replace unless you can scavenge a working one from another sound board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only replacement option at this time, other than sourcing a used board, is Pascal Janin&#039;s reproduction board. This board is a bit pricey but is engineered quite well. The board can be found here: [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php?lg=en http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php?lg=en].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GottliebSoundsOnlyBoardCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A leaky audio filter cap caused significant corrosion to several traces on this board.]][[Image:System80SoundsOnlyLeakyCap.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Audio filter cap removed, corrosion removed, traces tinned. The leaky cap can be seen in the top of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;This board operates on three different voltages: +5v, +12v, and -12v. The +5 volts comes in on J1 pin 5 from the machine&#039;s power supply board. The +12 volts comes in on J1 pin 1 from the machine&#039;s bottom panel. The -12 volts is generated on the sounds only board and it receives AC power input on J1 pins 3 and 4. You can measure the -12 volts by connecting your volt meter across zener diode CR5 (1N4742A).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The test button on this era sound board will only work if the two dipswitches are set in opposite positions on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted above, this board is tough to repair. If the 6530 is dead...you&#039;re SOL. A dead 6503 might be replaced. The other ICs on the board, like the LM380 amp and the 555 timer are still readily available. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A common issue with the board seems to be the leaky large capacitor on the board. Fortunately, this is easy to repair. Remove the old cap. Abate the corrosion as shown in the picture at right. Replace the cap. When this cap leaks, it can completely sever the sound signal path. Sounds might sound scratchy or incomplete too. The cap is easy to remove and replace. It&#039;s worth a shot.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Sound and Speech Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Different Revisions of the Sound and Speech Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=220px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Revisions of the Gottlieb Sound and Speech board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS Back B20887-1.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS Back B20887-2.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Front Added Resistors.JPG|thumb|left|200px|B-20887-3 Sound and Speech Board with Resistors Highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the third revision sound and speech board, the resistors which were added to the solder side of the -1 and -2 boards were now incorporated in the board design. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound and Speech Board Operation=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board represents the high point in the System 80 family as far as sound generation is concerned. By combining sound and voice circuitry, the board is flexible enough to be used in several different games, with different voice calls, all generated via the Votrax SC-01 speech synthesizer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board is itself a single board computer, and should be debugged similar to any non-working MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board interfaces with the System 80 MPU via a 6 bit (S1, S2, ..., S32) wide &amp;quot;data bus&amp;quot;. The 6 interface bits form a binary code which define specific sounds (or speech) to play. This enables 63 separate sounds to be played. Each communication between the MPU and the Sound and Speech board is &amp;quot;stand alone&amp;quot;. That is, the system does not make use of successive sound commands to mean different things as the Bally Squawk and Talk implementation does. In practice, since S32 is never used, a maximum of 31 unique sounds are commanded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Four of the bits in the interface are controlled (grounded) by circuitry on the MPU (starting at the U6 RIOT) and a &amp;quot;pass through&amp;quot; 7404 inverter on the driver board (Z13). The remaining two bits are implemented via &amp;quot;lamp drive&amp;quot; transistors (Q10 for S16) on the driver board, and comparator circuitry on the S&amp;amp;S board (U24).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are fielded by the S&amp;amp;S board&#039;s 6532 RIOT which generates an interrupt to the 6502 processor. The 6502 reads the sound number commanded from the 6532 as it services the interrupt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The S&amp;amp;S board&#039;s 6502&#039;s program code, as well as sound data, is stored in two 2716 EPROMs, PROM 1 and PROM 2.  These EPROMs are typically labeled at the factory with the model number of the game they are for, and the suffixes /S1 &amp;amp; /S2. For example &amp;quot;668/S1&amp;quot; is the label on one of the Black Hole sound ROMs. Although the board can be strapped for two 2732 EPROMs, in practice, this was never done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board can field and queue sound commands at the same time as it is driving the sound and speech circuitry lanes. The board will never interrupt or prematurely terminate a sound being played. The board will also never reorganize the queue of sounds to be played. Each sound to be played will be played until it&#039;s conclusion. The 6502 knows when &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; have completed playing since it is solely in control of the sound lane. The 6502 knows when &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; calls have completed processing by the SC-01 via a non-maskable interrupt sent via the SC-01&#039;s ~A/R signal to the 6502&#039;s NMI pin. Timing to sequence speech phonemes together rapidly is critical, hence the use of the non-maskable interrupt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6502 creates &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; via one circuitry lane. It creates &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; through a second, separate circuitry lane. At the end of each lane, just prior to input to the main LM379S amplifier, sound and speech is summed. The relative volume of each lane can be tuned via 10K trim pots at the top of the board, R15 and R16.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound Lane&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Simple sounds (not voice) are created by the 6502 reading data from the sound ROMs and latching it into two 74LS75 data latches. The 74LS75s latch the data when selected via a 74LS02 (NOR gate) at U10 which NORs the R/W signal along with a device select signal from the 74LS138 at U4. the device select signal selects U7 and U8 simultaneously to latch data bus signals DB0 - DB7 all at once.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two 74LS75s provide the data to a 1408 D-to-A (digital to analog) converter at U20. In this way, 511 different digital codes can be converted to analog levels by the 1408. The analog output of the 1408 can be attenuated via a 10K &amp;quot;variable resistor&amp;quot; at R13. The signal is then amplified and inverted by an LM741 analog inverter (U22). The analog signal is then fed to the LM379S for final amplification. Note that the 1408 DAC is obsolete, but may be replaced by the more available DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Speech Lane&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Speech is ultimately created by the Votrax SC-01 voice chip. The SC-01 accepts &amp;quot;phoneme&amp;quot; codes and renders the analog speech output to the LM379S for final amplification. The phoneme codes are placed on the 6502 data bus and pass through a 74LS05 &amp;quot;level shifter&amp;quot; and inverter at U13. The codes are accepted by the SC-01 on pins 9 through 14 when pin 7 is strobed (the phoneme code is latched on the rising edge of the strobe). The &amp;quot;pitch&amp;quot; of the SC-01 voice is controlled by I1/I2 (pins 3 and 2). Frequency and timing control is achieved via MCK and MCR (pins 15 and 16, which are tied together). Frequency and timing are controlled via nearly identical circuitry as is used in the &amp;quot;sound&amp;quot; lane. Frequency and timing are referred to in the schematics as the &amp;quot;Voice Clock&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Reset signal&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset circuit is pretty simple. A 47uf/50V cap at C3 charges when power is applied. Once charged, the originating 5VDC power is twice inverted and cleaned up via a Schmitt Trigger at U1, and finally presented to the ~RESET signal (pin 40) of the 6502.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test button&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The test button, located on the upper left side of the S&amp;amp;S board, grounds pin 17 of the 6532 RIOT. After reading the RIOT data, the 6502 process then plays the appropriate test sound, which varies by game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SC-01 pinout&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin Number(s)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal Name&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal Purpose&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;1 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Vdd&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Input Voltage&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;2-3 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;I1, I2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Instantaneous pitch adjustment. Will change pitch of phoneme being spoken.&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;7 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;S&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Strobe to indicate a phoneme code is ready&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;8 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;~A/R&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Acknowledge receipt of phoneme strobe, indicate completion of phoneme processing&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;9-14 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;P5-P0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Phoneme number select (from fixed phoneme table)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;15-16 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;MCK/MCR&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;External Clock Signal (probably used to alter phoneme pronunciation via varying the clock)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;20-22 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;CB, AF, AO&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Audio Output&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;18 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Ground&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sounds and Speech board DIP switch settings=====&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound and Speech board has a bank of DIP switches. For at least Black Hole, the function of these switches is as follows:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-1 - Used in self-test only&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-2 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-3/4 - Attract mode speech frequency&lt;br /&gt;
** OFF/OFF - disabled&lt;br /&gt;
** ON/OFF - attract mode speech every 10 seconds&lt;br /&gt;
** OFF/ON - attract mode speech every 2 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
** ON/ON - attract mode speech every 4 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-5 - ON = background sound enabled, OFF = background sound disabled&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-6 - ON = all speech enabled, OFF = all speech disabled&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-7 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-8 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound &amp;quot;Locks Up&amp;quot; after certain switch closures=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SC-01.jpg|thumb|200px|left|The long since obsolete, pricey, and hard to find SC-01 speech chip. This one is an SC-01-A, said to be a little beefier.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This problem may be caused by a malfunctioning or missing SC-01 (or SC-01-A) speech chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Games such as Black Hole, Mars God of War, and Volcano utilized the SC-01 phoneme speech chip. These games &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;require&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; a working SC-01 to be present, not only for the speech portions of the sound, but for the sound to not &amp;quot;lock up&amp;quot; after the first time that a speech call is made. The CPU relies on an interrupt from the 6532 RIOT to restart sound command processing. That interrupt originates from an &amp;quot;all done&amp;quot; signal from the SC-01 speech chip (shown as ~A/R in the schematics, SC-01 pin 8). If the RIOT never receives an &amp;quot;all done&amp;quot; signal (at PB7) then it will not interrupt the processor and no further speech or sound will be created.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is also possible that the 2N2222 at Q3 has failed, not allowing the interrupt signal to reach the RIOT. Q3 inverts the ~A/R signal and conveys it to the RIOT as A/~R and also to the MPU as a non-maskable interrupt (U3 6502, pin 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Game background sound continues after game over=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This has been noticed in &amp;quot;Mars, God of War&amp;quot; predominately, but other System 80 games that use the Speech and Sound board may exhibit similar symptoms.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of the problem is MPU DIP switch 25. The switch MUST be ON, as noted in the manual. Even if the switch appears to be &amp;quot;on&amp;quot;, buzz across the switch solder pads on the back side of the board to ensure that the switch has not failed. Gottlieb sometimes used &amp;quot;rocker&amp;quot; switches, which seem to have a high failure rate.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An &amp;quot;On Target&amp;quot; newsletter from June, 1981 discusses something similar to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound is &amp;quot;garbled&amp;quot; or phonemes appear jumbled=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;!--&lt;br /&gt;
While this problem is uncommon, it&#039;s quite maddening to track down. However, since the board architecture is split between a &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; lane and a &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; lane, at least the number of suspect components can be narrowed. In at least one instance, &amp;quot;garbled&amp;quot; sound was caused by a failed 74LS75 latch. Just after the game was turned on, sounds were normal. But, as components on the speech and sound board would &amp;quot;heat up&amp;quot;, speech became garbled, progressively becoming worse, until the speech was completely unintelligible, and then completely missing. The 74LS75 latches may be replaced by 7475s. --&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using the MA-483 Sound Amp Board on a Sound and Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback.JPG|130px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® MA-483 Piggyback Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS Power Mod.JPG||260px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® Sound and Speech Power Supply with components highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If using the MA-483 sound amp board on a Sound and Speech board, or if the sounds only System 80A sound board is going to be used, the factory Sound and Speech power supply cannot be used without modification.  The reason is because the original LM379S amp is powered by 30vdc, and the TDA2002 amp on the MA-483 only needs 16vdc.  If the TDA2002 was powered by 30vdc, it would be destroyed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The modification is quite simple, and is done by replacing only two components (R1 and CR1). R1 is 430 ohm 1/2 watt and CR1 is 1N4751A 30v 1 watt zener diode.  R1 should be replaced with a 1.5Kohm 1/2 watt resistor and CR1 should be replaced with 1N4746A 18V 1 watt zener diode.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing the Obsolete LM379S Amplifier with a Modern Amplifier=====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;This information originally published by J. &amp;quot;kirb&amp;quot; Kirby. Additional pictures and some editing provided by Chris Hibler. Used with permission.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Gottlieb System 80 Audio Amp Replacment...why?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80&amp;amp;a s&amp;amp;s.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board as used on Mars, God of War, Black Hole, Haunted House, Volcano, and some video games]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb® Sound and Speech board uses an LM379 or LM379s audio amp in the final amplification section. This amp became hard to find around 1983. Gottlieb® provided an alternative for this amp (see prior section) and discontinued using the Speech and Sound board further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Their solution was to buy a piggyback board from Gottlieb® that used an LM2002 or a TDA2002 amp. But the LM2002 or TDA2002 amps require 16VDC to operate (instead of the 30VDC used by the LM379). This necessitated a change to the sound board power supply. There were many components to replace or remove, not to mention that you would have to make the piggyback board yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SOLUTION? Find a newer amp that required fewer components. A replacment amp can be put together using only the following parts which can be easily sourced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*LM1875T Audio Amp&lt;br /&gt;
*14 pin DIP socket&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat sink&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat sink compound&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you&#039;ve sourced these parts, a replacement amp is easy to construct and only requires removal of the old LM379 amp and addition of one jumper (to provide 12VDC, covered later).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let&#039;s start with the basics. System 80 games used 4 different sound boards. This amp replacement applies only to the Sound and Speech board used in Mars: God of War, Black Hole (domestic version), Haunted House, Volcano, Devil&#039;s Dare, Caveman, Rocky, Q*bert&#039;s Quest, Super Orbit, Royal Flush Deluxe (early production), Amazon Hunt (early production), and video games like Q*bert.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;LM379 Audio Amp Testing&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;	&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First of all, is your amp really bad? Basic tests to identify a failed amp...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With the game on, turn the volume pot up as high as it will go. Do you hear a hum? This is normal and is an indicator that your amp is working.&lt;br /&gt;
*Check the voltages at the sound board. 30VDC is required to power the amp. Verify that this is working correctly or your amp won&#039;t work at all.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure the speakers are connected and working right. You can test speakers using a &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; size battery. Briefly connect the battery across the speaker and you should see the speaker&#039;s cone push out. Do this for only a second or two...speakers don&#039;t like DC voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure the volume adjustment pot is connected correctly and working properly. A dirty pot will make sounds junky, but they usually don&#039;t completely fail. You can &amp;quot;twizzle&amp;quot; the pot to remove oxidation that may have formed on the internal conductors.&lt;br /&gt;
*Headphones can be used to see if the sounds are getting to the amp. Connect one of the headphone conductors (the one closest to the headphone &amp;quot;handle&amp;quot;) to ground. Connect one of the other two headphone conductors (assuming stereo headphones) to the center leg of R15 or R16. You should be able to hear sounds that the board is making through the headphones. Your amp is probably bad if you can hear sounds at R15 or R16, but not through the speakers, assuming you&#039;ve tested the speaker to be good and you have 30VDC power at the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;LM379 Audio Amp Replacement Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mark the &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; of the heat sink so you can later determine orientation of the original amp should this be necessary. Pin 1 of the amp can&#039;t be identifed without removing the two screws that secure the finned heat sink to the chips integrated heat sink. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove the LM379 amp and heat sink assembly from the board. Desolder all 14 pins and pull the amp off the board. The LM379 heat sink may be soldered to the board so you&#039;ll need to remove that solder too. Be forewarned, the solder pads are delicate and easily damaged. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note how the LM379 is upside-down in relation to other chips on the board.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; This will be important later.&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Building the New Amp Assembly&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the new amp to the 14 pin DIP. Use the diagram below as a guide. The pinouts are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Amp Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Socket Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Purpose&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 1 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 9 || &amp;amp;nbsp;+ amp input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 2 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 8 || &amp;amp;nbsp;- amp input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 3 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 4 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 4 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 10 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Audio out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 5 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 1 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Vcc (+30VDC)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It will take some fancy bending to connect all of the amp legs in a way that they do not touch one another, but it can be done. It is important that the amp stands straight up and that the pins don&#039;t touch each other. See the diagram below for  better info. Don&#039;t worry about the 12VDC connection right now. We&#039;ll connect that later.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM379ReplacementNewAmpPinout.jpg‎|600px|center|Pinout schematic to attach the LM1875 amp to a 14 pin DIP socket]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;One Tech&#039;s Implementation (Heat Sink Added Later)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpFrontSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpRearSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Rear side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Attaching the heat sink&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, yes, you need a heat sink. Audio amps run hot. Without a heat sink, the amps life will be dramatically shortened.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mount the heat sink to the amp/socket assembly. You may have to modify your heat sink so that it doesn&#039;t contact anything but the LM1875 amp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Heat sink compound should be spread on any metal to metal surface that is to conduct heat. This will improve the heat sink&#039;s efficiency and is a must on this device to work right. Without the compound, the amp will overheat and shutdown. It may even be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=270px heights=270px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Kirb&#039;s original completed assembly&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpSideViewKirb.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Side view.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpFrontSideKirb.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front view.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Final Steps&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CompleteAssemblyInSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The completed assembly, mounted to the Sound and Speech Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the new amp assembly directly to the board. Normally you would use a socket, but that will  lead to audio problems. It is better just to solder it into the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ACHTUNG! Remember that pin 1 of the amp solder pads on the board is upside-down relative to every other IC on the board, and you need to install your new amp assembly with pin 1 &amp;quot;down&amp;quot;. Make sure this is done right. There is a 1 screened to the back of the board that should help you orient the assembly. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM379Replacement12VDCSource.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Connecting 12VDC to the amp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Now that the pins are soldered to the board, we have to connect 12VDC to pin 14 of the socket. This is easily found at the positive (+) side of C39. This 12VDC biases the +IN so that it won&#039;t saturate. Your amp will only work for about 30 seconds without this 12VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check all of your work one more time, then test the amp and see what you get. If you&#039;ve followed these steps correctly, your sound should be loud and clear!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Mapping =====&lt;br /&gt;
The interface between the driver board/MPU and the sound board is a simple bit map. An example bit map can be found on the [http://www.pinwiki.com//wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole Black Hole] specific page. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A Sound Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Cutting Out / No Sound=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback Back.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Piggyback Amplifier Board w/ Cracked Header Pins]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® had a tendency of using single-sided boards for their &amp;quot;piggy back&amp;quot; / daughter boards, and these boards are susceptible to cracked header pin solder joints.  The MA-483 amplifier board is no different.  If the sound appears to be cutting out or their are no sounds at all, the header joints on the MA-483 may have developed cracks.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before suspecting the daughter board header joints, review the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting] section located in the &amp;quot;General for all games&amp;quot; section. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A / 80B Sound with Piggyback Board====&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80A / 80B sound board is nearly the same as the first generation System 80 sound only sound board.  It utilizes a 2716 EPROM versus a masked ROM like the System 80 sound board.  This was potentially due to the Harris 7643 masked ROM being obsolete.  The 80A / 80B board does not use a test button.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the System 80 sounds only board, this board has 2 obsolete chips on it, the CPU (6503) and the RRIOT (6530).  On the plus side, these boards did not get destroyed nearly as much as the original System 80 sounds only boards (plugging the System 80 sounds only board into a System 1 game would destroy it in a very short time).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-766)====&lt;br /&gt;
This sound board has two independent 6502 CPUs.  One exclusively drives a DAC (digital-to-analog converter).  The other drives the speech chip, Orator, (not used for speech on this generation of sound board, but it is used to generate sounds), and two AY-3-8913 sound chips.  Each is pretty much independent, sharing essentially only the sound select lines, the reset signal, and the output section. The gates of one TTL chip are used by both 6502s to communicate between the subsystems via the NMI signal to each 6502 among other functions. The ROMs, CPUs, and accessory chips, are all localized to the particular subsystem other than the inter-processor communication just mentioned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the LED and test switch are only relevant for the CPU that operates the speech and synthesizer chips, not the chip connected directly to the DAC. With this in mind, it should be possible to troubleshoot this board using a divide-and-conquer approach.  For instance, if the LED isn&#039;t blinking in/off at about a 50% duty cycle, then the subsystem for the 6502 that controls the LED has to have a fault, but the other subsystem may be fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since this sound board is really just a more complex MPU board, or single board computer, the usual diagnostic steps are in order.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the ROM images are valid.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the reset signal begins low and then transitions to high after about 1/2 second.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the external clock signal is present at pin 37 of both 6502 processors.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the data lines on the 6502 (pins 33 through 26) are pulsing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the address lines on the 6502 (pins 9 through 20, 22 through 25) are pulsing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the external clocks are pulsing at pins 3 and 39 of the 6502 processors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-886)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA-886.jpg|200px|right|thumb|A repaired MA-886 sound board. Resistors R15, R16, R14, and R13 (top to bottom) are shown with blue Sharpie marks on their left ends, the end to probe when testing the sound channel. The other two components in the rectangle are high frequency ceramic filter capacitors which rarely fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 is generally the same board as the MA-766 sound board.  The main differences are that the MA-886 uses .156&amp;quot; header pins instead of edge connections, the Orator chip was no longer used, and SW1 was abandoned.&lt;br /&gt;
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Troubleshooting this board is nearly identical to the steps noted above for the MA-766 board.&lt;br /&gt;
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One useful aspect of the board is that 4 channels of sound are summed by the LM324 at B1 before final amplification offboard. &lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 1 is the output from the 7528 DAC at E2. An example of the sounds that this channel makes is the &amp;quot;Destroy Alpha One&amp;quot; and other voices used in Robowar. This channel also contributes the &amp;quot;skittering&amp;quot; sound when the ball pass the rollunder on the ramp wireform and the &amp;quot;energy pulse&amp;quot; sound when the ball rolls over any of the top 4 lane rollovers. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R16&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 2 is the output from the AY-3-8913 (if present) at H4. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R14&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 3 is the output from the AY-3-8913 (if present) at K4. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R13&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 4 is the output from the MF-4 at E5. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R15&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
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Placing an oscilloscope probe on the end of these resistors attached to the sound generating circuitry for that channel should show a purposeful signal (versus noise). If not, it&#039;s a good bet that one of the devices in that sound channel has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
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Several games (Bone Busters, Hoops, Bell Ringer, Silver Slugger, Car Hop, Deadly Weapon, Title Fight, and Vegas to name a few) use the MA-866 sound board paired with the MA-1294 auxiliary sound board. The two boards are connected via a special ribbon cable with dip &amp;quot;pins&amp;quot; on each end. WARNING: remove these connectors ONLY by sliding a flat blade screwdriver under it. Trying to &amp;quot;pull&amp;quot; the connector off with fingers on each side WILL cause the connector to be damaged. This sound board pair makes a two tone sound at power on. The two tones are different notes, like &amp;quot;LA-TI&amp;quot;. The first tone originates from the YM2151 on the MA-1294 auxiliary sound board. The second tone originates from the 7528 DAC. If either tone is missing, or unclear, suspect the associated sound lane.&lt;br /&gt;
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====System 80B Sound Board (MA-886) Jumpers J7 and J8====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA886JumperComparison.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The left board is from Silver Slugger (a System 3 game) which has both J7 and J8 installed. The right board is from Night Moves which has only J7 installed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA886SchematicSnippet.jpg|200px|right|thumb|A snippet of the schematic for the two boards showing that without J8 installed, the sound board will not be &amp;quot;interrupted&amp;quot; to indicate a new sound command is to be processed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 sound board was used in both System 80B and System 3 games. Two jumpers allow the board to be configured to accept the signal at connector P1, pin 9, as input. J8 IN enables this. J8 OUT defeats this. It&#039;s important to ensure these jumpers are installed appropriately for a particular game.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Flipper Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Flippers.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical System 80 Flippers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80 flipper assemblies are very well engineered, and very little goes wrong with them.  Due to this, they are considered to be the &amp;quot;Sherman Tanks&amp;quot; of flippers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B games other than Bone Busters utilize the traditional &amp;quot;fat&amp;quot; flipper bat design (similar to Bally, Chicago Coin, and Stern), which is a carry over from the last flipper design of Gottlieb® System 1 games. The 3&amp;quot; plastic flipper bat is technically called a &amp;quot;flipper island&amp;quot; (Gottlieb® part number A-13150), and uses a 3/8&amp;quot; wide rubber ring versus the more common 1/2&amp;quot; wide rubber all other manufacturers use.  Another anomaly regarding Gottlieb® flippers from this era is that they are the only flipper design that uses an upper and lower flipper bushing system.  Neither bushing protrudes through the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
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System 80/80A/80B flippers (other than Bone Busters) use an A-17875 (standard), A-24161 (stronger), or A-20095 (strongest) dual wound flipper coil.  The general design is a coil with two windings, the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; (low resistance) and &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; (high resistance) windings, just like most other flipper coil designs. However, only a single diode is used with this serial winding design versus others which employ a dual diode, parallel winding design.  Here&#039;s how it all works.  When initially engaged via the flipper cabinet button switches, both the power stroke and hold windings receive power, however, the hold winding is bypassed or shorted by the end of stroke (EOS) switch (electricity follows the path of least resistance).  As the flipper actuates and opens the EOS switch, the power is then transferred to both the power and hold windings (the resistance sum of the two windings), creating a very high resistance.  The high resistance allows the coil to remain turned on without creating stress on the low resistance power winding.  Hence, the coil can stay turned on indefinitely in theory.&lt;br /&gt;
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Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B flipper systems do not use a flipper relay per se.  Flipper power flows through switch pairs on Q &amp;amp; T relays located under the playfield, along with other non-computer controlled coils like slingshots.&lt;br /&gt;
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For problems and resolutions for the flippers used in Bone Busters, please see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3#Flipper_Problems Flipper Problems] section in the Gottlieb System 3 repair guide. &lt;br /&gt;
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====Flippers Won&#039;t Work at All====&lt;br /&gt;
Like any flipper issue, it has be determined whether the problem is electrical or mechanical in nature.  Start with obvious first.  Look for broken wires at the flipper coil, EOS switch, and cabinet switch first.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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During visual inspection, make certain that the flipper EOS switch is closed (use an ohmmeter to determine this), and the switch pairs on the tilt and game over relays are properly gapped and closed.  Equally, inspect the switch pairs to see if any of the switch blades are broken or missing their contacts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Since high current passes through all of the switches which enable the flipper, any of the switches may be suspect.  It is somewhat common for games which have been sitting dormant for years that the cabinet switch and / or EOS switch become so fouled, the flipper will not budge at all.  The remedy is to file these switches with an ignition file.  See the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#How_to_Properly_File_Switch_Contacts How to Properly File Switch Contacts] section.  A flexstone will not work for this job, as the cabinet and EOS switch contacts are very hard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Inspect the cabinet switches for broken female spade connectors where the cabinet wiring attaches to the switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Finally, look at the flipper plunger / link assembly.  The plunger link is a hefty plastic piece which inserted into at hollowed out end of the flipper plunger.  The link is connected to the plunger with a small roll pin.  The link can break or the roll pin can fall out, due to vibration.  If the link is no longer connected to the plunger, the flipper will not move at all.  Refrain from trying to engage the flipper with the cabinet switches.  Continuing to enable the flipper coil will stress the coil, because the EOS switch will not open, transferring power.  The end result is an overheated flipper or damaged flipper coil.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Flippers are Weak, Sluggish, or Erratic====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System1-80FlipperLinkDamageAnnotated.jpg|thumb|left|200px|A Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B Flipper Plunger/Link/Crank Parts. Note the &amp;quot;hogged out&amp;quot; part of the link]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Worn Flipper Link&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The design of the flipper crank and flipper link / plunger is peculiar to Gottlieb® games.  Gottlieb® games from the System 80/80A/80B era use a very meaty flipper link, which does not have a pivot point between it and the connected plunger.  To achieve the necessary fulcrum, the flipper link has an oval opening at the point where the link and flipper crank connect.  The two pieces are simply connected with a roll pin protruding through the two parts.  Over time, the roll pin can sometimes cut into the opening in the link, and the roll pin will catch as the flipper crank pivots.  The result is a weak flipper or a flipper which does not return to the at rest position.  Using a roll pin punch tool, remove the roll pin, and replace the flipper link / plunger assembly.  Pay close attention when installing the roll pin into the new plunger link.  It is very easy to cut into the link with the roll pin, deeming the new link / plunger worthless.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Flipper Crank Installed Incorrectly&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Reassembling a flipper bat / shoe incorrectly can result in a weak flipper.  Before tightening the two set screws which hold the flipper shaft in place, make certain that the flipper crank is centered equidistant between the upper and lower flipper bushings.  If placed too close to the upper bushing, it will &amp;quot;sandwich&amp;quot; the upper bushing between the crank and bat.  If placed too close to the lower bushing, the crank will have friction between it and the lower bushing.  The end result is a weak flipper or a flipper which does not return to the at rest position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Fouled / Pitted Switch Contacts&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Fouled switch contacts can reduce current, which in turn reduces power / strength.  Make certain that the EOS switch, cabinet switch, and switch pairs on the game over (Q) and tilt (T) relays are all clean and not pitted. Filing the contacts with an ignition file will remedy the problem, provided that the contacts are not heavily pitted.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Bad Connection to Cabinet Switch&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another problem related to the cabinet switches is the female spade connector used to connect the cabinet wiring to the switch.  These spade connectors can sometimes become sloppy or break.  In most cases, the break is not evident, until the connector is removed and reinstalled on the cabinet switch tab.  The spade connector can be removed and a new one crimped on, or the better solution is to solder the cabinet switch wires to the tabs on the cabinet switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Worn Flipper Plunger&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A mushroomed flipper plunger can create excessive drag within the coil sleeve.  When replacing the plunger / link, replace the coil sleeve and coil stop too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Coil Stop&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The coil stop &amp;quot;slug&amp;quot; is pressed into the coil stop bracket.  It is somewhat common for the slug to become detached from the coil stop bracket.  The coil stop slug will then be &amp;quot;free floating&amp;quot; within the coil sleeve.  This can create some interesting problems, but the most noticeable are reduction in flipper power, decrease in flipper stroke or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Incorrect Flipper Rubber Installed&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® used 3/8&amp;quot; wide rubber on flippers.  It fits perfectly into the groove on the plastic flipper bat.  Everybody else used 1/2&amp;quot; wide rubber, and that tended to get installed on the Gottlieb® games, too.  When a 1/2&amp;quot; wide ring is used, it almost fits, but because of the groove, it will present a funny angle to the ball instead of a flat plane.  The results are either air balls, or the flipper will smack the ball downward into the playfield.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Cracked / Broken Plastic Bat&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes the flipper bat cracks.  Replacements are available.  The screw that holds the plastic flipper bat on the metal shoe is located on the underside of the flipper.  Loosen the two set screws on the flipper crank, and the shoe and bat will come free.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Hold Winding&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Erratic flipper function is defined as a flipper which will not remain in the up (hold) position when activated.  The flipper will move rapidly up and down as if it is &amp;quot;machine gunning&amp;quot;.  This is typically the result from a break in the hold winding right at the flipper coil lug.  One resolution is to locate the broken coil winding (this will be the thinner of the two windings), and unwind one turn from the coil.  This can be accomplished if the side of the winding is not connected to the common lug of the flipper coil.  Note that the power winding cannot be unwound if it breaks.  This is because the power winding is wound on the coil bobbin first, and is located beneath the hold winding.  Once one turn of the hold winding is unwound from the coil, the excess length must be shortened.  After the correct length is determined, the portion of the winding which will be soldered to the coil lug must have its insulation stripped off.  The red or green hue on the coil winding is actually a thin insulation, which is used to keep the winding from shorting to adjacent windings.  Gently scrape the coating off the winding by using an exacto or utility knife, exposing the copper wire of the winding.  Then wrap the uninsulated winding around the coil lug, and solder it.  If a single winding cannot be removed from the existing coil, complete coil replacement is the solution.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Flippers Will not Return to at Rest Position====&lt;br /&gt;
The EOS switch assembly is actuated by the pointed part of the flipper crank assembly.  This is a metal-on-metal contact point.  Due to the design of the flipper crank, it will eventually wear a hole in the EOS actuating blade.  The fix is to replace the EOS switch assembly.  About halfway through the System 80B games (around TX-Sector or so), the EOS switch was slightly relocated, and a modified flipper crank actuates the switch with a roller.  An MA-988 or MA-989 kit can be purchased to perform this upgrade on any System 80/80A/80B game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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As mentioned in the previous section, the flipper link can become cut by the roll pin which secures it to the flipper crank.  This can also cause the flipper to not return to the rest position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Also mentioned in the previous section, the flipper coil stop slug can detach from the coil stop bracket, causing the flipper not to return completely.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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If the flipper return spring has become stretched or is no longer connected to the flipper crank or coil stop anymore, the flipper will not return properly.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb pbdb new.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Corrected/Modified Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B Pop Bumper Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pop bumpers on all System 80 / 80A / 80B games are controlled by an under playfield mounted board known as the pop bumper driver board (PBDB). Remote pop bumper driver boards are unique to Gottlieb® System 80 games. No other manufacturer made this design decision. The reason Gottlieb® did this is probably to supplement the number of coil drive circuits as well as to solve the common problem of pop bumpers locking on with subsequent damage to the games components.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Each pop bumper has its own board.  Each board provides a consistent, strong pop regardless of how long the spoon switch is activated, and ensures (when working properly) only a single pop per actuation of the spoon switch. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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These boards are single-sided construction, where the traces are located only the solder side of the board.  Due to this construction, the solder connections crack easily.  Reflowing the solder of the header pins on any suspect boards is recommended to ensure a good mechanical and electrical connection.  The components should be inspected as well, because they can also have cracked solder connections that will need to be touched up.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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If the pop bumper fires but does not score, examine the secondary switch on each pop bumper to see if it needs cleaning or adjustment.  This switch is part of the switch matrix, and can be tested by manually pulling the pop bumper rod and ring down to activate it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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====Updating the Pop Bumper Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® issued a service bulletin to correct a design error with the PBDB. A great many of these boards were delivered in games prior to correcting the design at the factory. Examine the PBDBs to ensure that they have been updated. See the pictures below, noting the differences. &#039;&#039;&#039;A dead giveaway would be the lack of a jumper to replace CR1.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=150px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80/80A/80B PBDB Before/After Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-UnModifiedPBDB.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Unmodifed PBDB&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-ModifiedPBDB.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Modifed PBDB&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Gottlieb-ModifiedPBDBPartsExplanation.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B PBDB Update]]&lt;br /&gt;
Should your PBDB require update, follow this procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
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*Acquire the following parts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Cut to length .156 Molex male header pins with locking ramp (you&#039;ll need a 6 pin length)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**47uf/10V electrolytic capacitor (C4)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**4.7uf/10V capacitor (C3, tantalum or electrolytic, may be axial or radial)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Jumper material (use the remaining leg cut from C4 when you install it)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove CR1, C3, and C4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the Molex connector or reflow the solder on each header pin&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Install C4 (47uf/10V) with the negative side facing the male header pins&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Use the remaining part of the capacitor leg from C4 as a jumper to replace CR1. Any jumper wire will work...the cap leg is convenient, available, and looks professional when installed nice and straight.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Install C3 (4.7uf/10V), reversing the original polarity so that the positive side faces the jumper just installed and the negative side faces the nearest board edge. Note that C3 may be axial (leads from both ends along the components &amp;quot;axis&amp;quot;) or radial (leads on one end of the component). The board is designed to accept either style.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the large can transistor (2N6057, 2N6059, PMD10K40 or PMD10K60) solder joints are solid and that the bolted end is making good contact with the PCB trace.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Test the large can transistor...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**DMM set to &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Black lead on the nut that secures the transistor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Red lead on each leg of the transistor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**A measurement between .5 and .7 should be seen. Readings significantly outside of these ranges indicate a failed transistor which should be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Examine the remaining solder joints on the board to ensure good solid joints and no lifted traces. Note that the trace between the jumper that replaces CR1 and R2 is particularly susceptible to damage and if broken, will cause the associated pop bumper to lock on.&lt;br /&gt;
*Reinstall the PBDB and test.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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There is an update for the PBDB that gives the board a bit more &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot;. Simply replace R1 (1.5Kohms) with a 10Kohm 1/4W resistor and replace C1 (0.01mfd) with a 1 mfd 100 volt (non polarized) capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
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Also, to avoid random, uncommanded pops caused by &amp;quot;noise&amp;quot; on the switch line, you can add an electrolytic capacitor to the solder side of the board. Use a 4.7 mfd 16 volt radial capacitor (both leads on one end). Solder the negative lead of the capacitor to pin 4. Solder the positive lead of the capacitor to pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Replacing the 2N6057 with a TIP-102=====&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:popdrivertip102.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A TIP-102 installed on a Pop Bumper Driver Board (PBDB)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PBDTIP102.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Closer view of a TIP-102 installed on a PBDB]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 2N6057 used on Gottlieb games is obsolete, so it is hard-to-find and expensive.  A cheap and effective substitute for the 2N6057 as used on the PBDB is a TIP102 transistor.  It&#039;s not the most elegant &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot;, but it works well.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Drop Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
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====Early System 80 / 80A Drop Target Removal====&lt;br /&gt;
For now, please review the drop target removal guide available at [http://www.papinball.com/tips/gottlieb_drop_target_guide2.html PAPinball.com].&lt;br /&gt;
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====Later System 80B Drop Target Removal==== &lt;br /&gt;
This is a stub&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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===Vari-Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
The single largest problem with vari-targets is adjusting the spring tension, which returns the vari-target to the at rest position.  The spring can be adjusted by hooking it to one of two screws which hold the spring in place.  In most cases, there is only one screw, but two screw holes are placed 180 degreees from one another within the vari-target frame.  Spring adjustment should be made so that the vari-target barely returns to the home position, when the playfield is upright (resting against the backbox).  Once the playfield is placed in its proper position, gravity will help with the extra &amp;quot;bump&amp;quot; that the vari-target needs to return home.  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Also, the switch leaves of the vari-target, which &amp;quot;ride&amp;quot; along the rivet board need enough tension to make good solid contact with the rivets. Since it&#039;s impossible to bend the switch leaves closer to the rivet board with the rivet board in place, removal of the vari-target rivet board must be done to make this adjustment.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Vari-targets seldom require adjustment as they were correctly adjusted at the factory. It is possible to move parts of the mechanism so that the switch no longer comes to rest on a rivet when the vari-target &amp;quot;gear&amp;quot; is stopped by the reset relay armature.&lt;br /&gt;
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Vari-targets are a rare example of where lubrication helps the operation of the mechanism. A thin film of lithium grease on the rivets helps the switch blade &amp;quot;wipe&amp;quot; cleanly across them. Like [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brylcreem Brylcreem], &amp;quot;a little dab&#039;ll do ya&amp;quot;. Note: That&#039;s humor son...Brylcreem is not a suitable lubricant...for pinball machines. :-)&lt;br /&gt;
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===Roto Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
By the time System 80 games first came out, the roto target was a dying assembly.  The believed reason is due to the amount of playfield &amp;quot;real estate&amp;quot; in which it used underneath a playfield.  Circus is the only System 80 game which used the roto target.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
===Cabinet===&lt;br /&gt;
* Power cable strain relief bushing, 80A games: Heyco 7k-2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Black Hole issues have been moved to the dedicated [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole Black Hole] page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Alien Star Game Start Failure===&lt;br /&gt;
Alien Star has a major fault when running the original 689 code.  For the game to properly start, one ball must be in the trough and one ball in the outhole.  If both balls are located in the trough, only the single trough switch will be closed, and not the outhole switch.  When only the trough switch is closed, the game *thinks* that only one ball is installed, (2 balls total are needed), and will do absolutely nothing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has not been verified, but running 689A code may resolve this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Haunted House Upkicker Plastic Tube Mounting Bracket===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cornell_VR4_cap_bracket.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Mounting bracket for the plastic tube.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The metal mounting bracket that secures the longer plastic upkicker tube to the main playfield breaks its tabs (ears) off allowing the tube to flop around loose. This bracket is actually an electrolytic capacitor mounting bracket for computer grade capacitors. If broken, Mouser Electronics sells this item as part number [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/VR4/?qs=0r35cIPu56HWvTGFwxXK2g%3d%3d 539-VR4]. The OEM part is a VR4, which is manufactured by Cornell-Dublier (Mallory).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Devil&#039;s Dare - All Displays out except status display===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DD Resistor Before.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Burnt 200 Ohm resistor on +60VDC display power line]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DD Resistor After.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Replacement 200 Ohm 2 watt resistor on +60VDC display power line]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the game in question is a Devil&#039;s Dare, and all of the displays are out except for the status display, and the +60VDC is present at the power supply, but not at the displays, the following may apply.  Some Devil&#039;s Dare games, (it is unknown exactly which ones at this point), have a 200 ohm resistor installed in series with the +60VDC power line for the displays.  The resistor is located on the lamp insert board, just behind the lower right 6 digit display.  The resistor is soldered to two solder eyelets, so replacement is relatively easy.  It is unknown what the purpose of this resistor is, but it is fairly common for the resistor to overheat and potentially fail.  The recommended replacement for this is a 200 ohm 2 watt resistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no information regarding the value or placement of this resistor in the Devil&#039;s Dare manual / schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Mars God of War (MGOW) - Background Sound Continues After Game is Over===&lt;br /&gt;
If the background sound continues after the game is over, this may solve the issue.  Even though the manual states that dipswitch 25 on the CPU board is not used, try placing switch 25 in the &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Volcano Kick Back Ends Prematurely ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:VolcanoKickBack.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The Volcano kickback mechanism.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The kickback mechanism in Volcano, once enabled by a playfield feature, remains available until the player uses the feature by pressing the green cabinet button in front of the flipper switch. The game knows that the feature has been used by sensing the switch at the rear of the mechanism. As the plunger pulls in, the normally closed switch is opened by the ring on the rear of the plunger. If this normally closed switch isn&#039;t &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; solidly, the game will think that the plunger has pulled in. The kickback feature will be considered used and hence disabled.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The behavior looks like the feature has timed out prematurely.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Games with Playfield Windows: Black Hole, Haunted House, Genesis, Monte Carlo, etc. ===&lt;br /&gt;
Playfield windows use foam washers that provide &amp;quot;counter force&amp;quot; to help keep the window flush with the playfield. If the window isn&#039;t flush with the playfield, the &amp;quot;lip&amp;quot; of the sunken window in its mount will cause airballs and/or the edge of the playfield will wear excessively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a couple decades, springy foam washers turn into hard, crumbly foam washers.  Weatherstripping (&amp;quot;beer seal&amp;quot;), cut really small, works in a pinch, but the Pinball Resource stocks the proper foam washers (GTB # 21219).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
==== Game Displays 000000 On Power Up and It&#039;s Not The Slam Switch ====&lt;br /&gt;
If you power the game on and all of the displays immediately display all zeros without strobing the problem is usually with the slam switch. However, if the slam switch modification has been done or the slam switch is working properly there is a problem with the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I had this problem on my Haunted House machine. I finally found that chip Z15 (7432) was bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I was fixing a kicker solenoid on the playfield, the playfield was still in the machine and fully in the upright position. While I was soldering the wire to the new solenoid I did not adequately protect the components below from a solder drip. Well, I did have a solder drip that landed right on a pop bumper driver board connector and shorted the connector. The short caused more than just this problem but for this narrative we will restrict to the slam/switch matrix problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reading in other materials I recognized the problem as the slam switch issue. I used a logic probe to test other components and found the CPU board working, mostly as it should except for acting like the machine was slam tilted. There was little written about the problem outside of the slam switch. I decided to check the matrix by doing a diode check on all of the diodes in the switch matrix. When I did this, I found that many of the diodes were testing bad. These were being tested with the board removed from the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Having replacement diodes in my parts drawer I decided that these must have gone bad during the short. I began unsoldering a few of the diodes. Once disconnected from the circuit board I remeasured the removed diodes and found the correct values on my meter, they were not bad. I then noticed that the bad diodes were all in the same row on the switch matrix. They all traced back to the Z15 chip. I replaced the Z15 7432 and the problem was resolved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Game Displays a single 0 or 1 on Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
If an 80A game does not boot and displays just a single zero, just a single 1, or alternates between a single zero and single 1, this may indicate one or more bad IC(s) on the MPU:&lt;br /&gt;
* CPU&lt;br /&gt;
* Z7&lt;br /&gt;
* Z8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU itself may still output data that can be picked up with a logic probe, but still might be bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-sys80a-bad-cpu-display-symptom.gif|thumb|200px|left|Animation of symptom of alternating 0 and 1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-sys80a-bad-cpu-display-symptom-zeros.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Symptom of the displays showing a single zero]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=&amp;quot;all&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Testing the Q relay ====&lt;br /&gt;
Had a problem with my Black Hole - Q relay didn&#039;t activate. Played a bit with wires, did ground mods, .. &lt;br /&gt;
After a while I noticed it did work but didn&#039;t stay enabled - at the start of a game it closed, 1 coil (ball drain) kicked and the Q relay deactivated again. Noticed this with the playfield in up position, no pinballs installed.&lt;br /&gt;
Finally tested with playfield down - and pinballs installed - suddenly the behaviour was different: ball drain coil kicked and then the next coil also that put a coil in the shooter lane. Seems the Q relay did work all this time, but will only stay enabled when pinballs are installed in the game ?!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Results of a locked on coil ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurntCoil1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Melted coil sleeve]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurntCoil2.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Burnt paper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a coil locks on (due for example to a bad driver board transistor), the coil will burn. Here is a coil which had locked on. Note the burn marks on the paper wrapping and the melted coil sleeve, which prevented the coil plunger from moving through the coil. The resistance of this coil was 0.9 ohms (the specified resistance for this particular coil should be 3.35 ohms), also indicating it&#039;s bad due to an internal short (adjacent windings shorted together due to overheating the coil wire insulation).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Black Hole top rollover switches ====&lt;br /&gt;
When Black Hole serves a ball, it must go through the top rollovers before hitting any other switch.  The playfield design ensures this.  But if it doesn&#039;t (I had the glass off and started testing some other feature), things get very weird: suddenly, I seemed to be in a 3-ball, 4-player game with some of the score displays blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This isn&#039;t usually a problem in practice but it is worth making sure that the three top rollovers have clean switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replacing the 80B 5V pot ====&lt;br /&gt;
I got a Monte Carlo and replaced the 5V adjustment pot on the regulator.  It was working fine.  After the old one had been chopped off, I discovered it was the same as the new one.  It had already been replaced!  A bunch of rework on the regulator, and ground mods on the transformer frame, should have been my clue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 80B sound doesn&#039;t work ====&lt;br /&gt;
I got a Spring Break and the sound didn&#039;t work.  The LED didn&#039;t light in any predictable way, and the game put out a lot of white noise.  At one point I thought I heard some sounds underneath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, I had a Monte Carlo sitting next to it where the sound did work.  I spent some time trying to understand the problem, and finally just swapped all the socketed chips (three EPROMs and the &amp;quot;Orator&amp;quot; speech synthesizer).  The problem followed the EPROMs, not the board.  Ultimately I replaced all three ROMs, although it seems likely that only one was likely bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the sound board has two separate CPUs, and only one controls the LED, so it is likely one of the two EPROMs associated with that CPU that is actually bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Two flash lamp problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
Monte Carlo has four pairs of flashers controlled by &amp;quot;lamp&amp;quot; drive transistors, stepped up by under-playfield transistors.  On my game, I had two unrelated problems with different flash banks.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two sockets by the roulette wheel were missing their lamps, and the under playfield was a little burned near where the lamps had been.  Apparently they were locked on, and someone had pulled the bulbs rather than fix the problem.  I replaced Q17, which was out of spec according to the measurements on this page.  I didn&#039;t replace the under-playfield MJ2955 because it seemed to measure correctly.  One down, one to go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The other flasher, the two on the left side, just didn&#039;t work.  Lamp bulbs were fine, and all transistors seemed OK by the tests given above.  I checked for continuity in the wiring and even tried grounding the transistor side of the circuit, but no lamps lit.  Finally, I pulled the plastic off to take the bulb out (to measure at the socket) and I found that the two lugs of the socket were bent and touching!  So the lamp was a short, but because of the resistor, not short enough to blow the fuse or fry the transistor.  A little bending back seems to have fixed it. -- [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 16:29, 7 February 2014 (CST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 80B Display has garbage on one display glass ====&lt;br /&gt;
Chicago Cubs had garbage/nonsensical characters on just the lower score display. I found chip U2 (type 10939) which controls the lower display to be bad. Replacing the chip cured the problem. I also installed a 40 pin IC socket for the replacement chip. If by chance you encounter the same symptom except that it is on the upper display, then chip U1 (type 10939) is bad. U1 controls the upper score display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rebuilt 80/80A Power supply, solenoid fuse blows on power up====&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 80/80A power supply has been rebuilt and the solenoid fuse blows as soon as the game is turned on, take a look at the power supply capacitor at C1. It might have been installed in the wrong direction. Make sure the (-)side on the capacitor matches the (-) side notated on the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Haunted House ten thousand digit out on several displays ====&lt;br /&gt;
Encountered the ten thousand digits missing on three displays: player 1, player 3, and bonus display. Tried several known good cpu boards and problem remained. Tried swapping displays and problem remained. I traced the problem to the wiring harness on the main playfield. At the playfield mounted transistor Q2, the transistor mounting bracket had cut into the wiring harness. I repaired the harness with electrical tape and routed the harness farther away from that bracket with a couple of wire ties. Problem fixed and all displays are now working correctly.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80&amp;diff=20615</id>
		<title>Gottlieb System 80</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80&amp;diff=20615"/>
		<updated>2020-11-28T22:02:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Click to go back to the [[Gottlieb_Repair_Guides | Gottlieb® solid state repair guides index]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 1st gen boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Set - 1st Generation ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
			&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb&#039;s® second generation of solid state pinballs is System 80.  Capabilities were increased in terms of controllable lamps, solenoids, gameplay, and sound.  No longer tied to an EM-esque platform, Gottlieb® started to introduce games with more unconventional asymmetric playfields.  System 80 marked a foray into double and triple level playfields, speech, and multiball. Unfortunately, it also represented a lateral step in reliability, with battery corrosion, connectors, and bad grounding plaguing the design.  Nearly all the same issues as were present with the System 1 platform.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
			&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80cabinet.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Set - 2nd Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the System 1 games, the System 80 / 80A / 80B design relied solely on connectors and daisy-chained wiring to transport the ground lines from board to board. The exception is that the large ground plane used with System 1 games was no longer used behind the boards with the System 80 games. Gottlieb® still opted to use plastic standoffs to elevate and secure the boards to the backbox or the back side of the lamp box insert. Thus, if a single ground connector failed in the chain, the logic ground could fail for one or several of the circuit boards. This could potentially lead to locked on coils, relays, and / or controlled lamps. In turn, transistors and chips would fail.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Later gtb sys80a boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Board Set]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 platform was used for a total of nine years from 1980-1989.  During this period, there were three main versions of the boardset.  These three versions are referred to as: System 80, System 80A, and System 80B.  System 80 was used from 1980-1982, System 80A was used from 1982-1985, and System 80B was used from 1985-1989.  The easiest way to differentiate between the three versions is by looking at the style of displays which were used.  System 80 used 6-digit displays for scoring, and in some instances, for bonus values or timers.  System 80A used 7-digit displays for scoring, and 6-digit displays for bonus values or timers too.  Both the 6-digit and 7-digit displays were limited to displaying numeric values.  System 80B differed the most by using two 20-digit alpha-numeric displays, which were stacked on top of each other.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Early gtb sys80b boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Early]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Shortly after the onset of using the System 80B boardset, it was evident that the complexity of playfield designs had quickly outgrown the boardset.  Remote satellite boards, and transistors littered the underside of the playfield and inside the cabinet, because the driver board was too undersized to handle these extra duties.  A new boardset, known as the System 3 platform, was under development, but was not released until nearly 4 years later in 1990.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
	 &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Typical gtb sys80b boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Typical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Later 80B Backbox.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B Board Set - Later Games (Hot Shots, Bad Girls, and Big House]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once a System 80 / 80A / 80B game has been methodically gone through with board design grounding flaws and connectors corrected, they are just as reliable as any of their contemporaries.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 1st Generation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Amazing Spiderman|| 05-1980 || 7625 || 653 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Panthera|| 06-1980 || 5220 || 652 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||   6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Circus|| 06-1980 || 1700 || 654 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit || Ultra Widebody &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Counterforce|| 06-1980 || 3870 || 656 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||   6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Star Race|| 08-1980 || 870 || 657 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit || Ultra Widebody  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80 2nd Generation===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;Sound&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|James Bond|| 10-1980 || 3625 || 658 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Time Line|| 12-1980 || 3167 || 659 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Force II|| 12-1981 || 2000 || 661 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pink Panther|| 03-1981 || 2840 || 664 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] ||  6-digit ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mars God of War|| 03-1981 || 5240 || 666 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || First Gottlieb® with speech, lane change, and multi-ball&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano|| 09-1981 || 3655 || 667 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || Export games used [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Hole]]|| 10-1981 || 8774 || 668 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  6-digit || First Gottlieb® with 2-Level playing area, Export games used [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board and a simple single backglass with no spinning disc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Haunted House|| 06-1982|| 6835 || 669 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 6-digit || First game with 3-Level playing area, Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board w/o the speech chip installed.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Eclipse|| 1982 || 193 || 671 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | Sound only]] || 6-digit || Production game and available as a kit for James Bond 007 &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80A===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Devil&#039;s Dare|| 08-1982 || 3832 || 670 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || Export games used the [[Media:Gtb_sys80_sound.JPG | sound only]] board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Caveman]]|| 09-1982 || 1800 || PV810 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || Pinball / Video game hybrid &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky|| 09-1982 || 1504 || 672 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  ||  7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spirit|| 11-1982 || 1230 || 673 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Punk!|| 12-1982 || 959 || 674 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Striker|| 11-1982 || 910 || 675 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Krull|| 02-1983 || 10 || 676 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Goin&#039; Nuts|| 02-1983|| 10 || 682 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but used sound &amp;amp; speech board&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Q*bert&#039;s Quest|| 03-1983 || 884 || 677 ||  [[Media:Gtb_sys80%26a_s%26s.JPG | Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]  || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Super Orbit|| 05-1983 || 2100 || 680 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Royal Flush Deluxe|| 06-1983 || 2000 || 681 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]]  || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Amazon Hunt]]|| 09-1983 || 1515 || 684 || [[Media:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG | Sound Only]] or [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || Sound only, but uses the less populated sound &amp;amp; speech board. Later production games used the [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|sound only]] piggyback sound board &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rack &#039;Em Up!|| 11-1983 || 1762 || 685 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Ready... Aim... Fire!|| 11-1983 || 390 || 686 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Jacks to Open|| 05-1984 || 2350 || 687 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Alien Star|| 06-1984 || 1065 || 689 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || 689A Denotes a revision in the ROM code&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|The Games|| 08-1984|| 1768 || 691 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Touchdown|| 10-1984 || 711 || 688 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|El Dorado City of Gold|| 09-1984 || 905 || 692 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Ice Fever|| 02-1985 || 1585 || 695 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || 7-digit || &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===System 80B===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Production&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&amp;amp;nbsp;#&lt;br /&gt;
!Sound&lt;br /&gt;
!Display&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Chicago Cubs Triple Play|| 05-1985 || ~1365 || 696 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bounty Hunter|| 07-1985 || 1220 || 694 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] || Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tag Team Pinball|| 09-1985 || 1220 || 698 || [[Media:Gtb_sys80a%26b_sound.JPG|Sound Only]] ||  Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock|| 10-1985 || 1875 || 697 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 || DIP switches 7 and 8, while listed as &amp;quot;spares&amp;quot;, 7 is actually used to turn attract sounds on / off.  There is an addendum added to the first page of the manual stating as such.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Raven|| 03-1986 || 3550 || 702 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock Encore|| 04-1986 || 245 || 704 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||Production game using same playfield art as Rock, but mainly available as a conversion kit for Rock&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hollywood Heat|| 06-1986 || 3400 || 703 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| 09-1986 || 3500 || 705 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| 10-1986 || 3260 || 707 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| 04-1987 || 3550 || 706 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| 02-1987 || 4315 || 708 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]||  Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Arena|| 06-1987 || 3099 || 709 ||[[Media:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|Sound Only]]||Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| 10-1987 || 3315 || 710 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diamond Lady|| 02-1988 || 2700 || 711 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|TX Sector|| 03-1988 || 2336 || 712 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| 04-1988 || 2130 || 714 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-644 ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Excalibur|| 11-1988 || 1710 || 715 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||Start of the MA-1133 CPU Board. No actual speech callouts are present in this game.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| 11-1988 || 2500 || 717 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Big House|| 04-1989 || 1977 || 713 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot Shots|| 04-1989 || 2342 || 718 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 ||  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters Inc.|| 08-1989 || 2000 || 719 || [[Media:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|Sound &amp;amp; Speech]]|| Alphanumeric; MA-999 || Uses 3 sound boards - uses 50v to power flippers &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Game date of release, production numbers, and model number provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
===Recommended Documentation===&lt;br /&gt;
====Manuals====&lt;br /&gt;
* A game manual.  Pinball Resource has many factory originals still left, and reprints of everything else.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Theory of Operation &amp;amp; Repair Guides====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gottlieb Star Series 80 Service Manual&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:Gottlieb-star-series-80-service-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]][[file:Gottlieb-star-series-80-service-manual-cover-alt.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Information on how system 80 operates, with troubleshooting information outlined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1983 Technical Seminar Workbook&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Information on how system 80 operates, with troubleshooting information outlined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parts Catalogs====&lt;br /&gt;
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts &amp;amp; schematics, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Gottlieb tended to publish a lot of game-specific information in parts catalogs. These have exploded diagrams of assemblies, particularly in earlier games that had the thinner, much less helpful manuals. Playfield parts, lamps, and switches are all diagrammed out. These also have collected service bulletins. Reprints are available from Pinball Resource.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
!Cover&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Games&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1982 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1982-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Counter Force, Star Race, James Bond, Time Line, Force II, Pink Panther, Mars God Of War, Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, Caveman, Rocky. This catalog also features system 1 games.&lt;br /&gt;
|Includes parts assemblies, plus switch matrix and controlled lamp locations, board layouts, schematics, and board parts lists, coin door parts, and some cabinet parts. Includes System 1 and 80 parts and boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1987 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1987-parts-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, Rocky, Spirit, Rock, Striker, Q*bert&#039;s Quest, Super Orbit, Royal Flush, Amazon Hunt, Rack &#039;Em Up, The Games, Chicago Cubs Triple Play, Rock Encore, Ready Aim Fire, Touchdown, Bounty Hunter, Raven, Jacks To Open, El Dorado City Of Gold, Tag Team, Hollywood Heat, Alien Star, Ice Fever, Rock, Genesis&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1992 Parts Catalog&lt;br /&gt;
|[[file:gottlieb-1992-parts-manual-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pbresource.com/books.html PBResource.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|Covers 80B games starting from Gold Wings and the first 9 System 3 titles (games #706-#730).&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One interesting note about the part numbers is that the single letter that preceded the number indicated the size of the paper that was used for the original drawing/blueprint of the part. Paper sizes A up through F were used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connector Designations===&lt;br /&gt;
All Gottlieb® machines have a common naming convention for all of the connectors in the game.  A specific connection uses two parts - a prefix and a suffix.  The prefix is the board number or an inline wire junction, and the suffix is the connection on the board or a sequential wire junction number.  When referencing a specific connector pin within a housing, a dash follows the connection number.  For example, the connector pin for the slam switch signal on the CPU board is A1J5-10.  The coin door connection used on Devil&#039;s Dare is A15P1 and A15J1 - the connector pin for switch return 7 on the coin door is A15J1-8.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following boards are assigned the same numbers throughout the System 80 / 80A / 80B platforms.&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU Board - A1&lt;br /&gt;
*Power Supply - A2&lt;br /&gt;
*Driver Board - A3&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound Board - A6&lt;br /&gt;
*Pop Bumper Driver Boards - A8&lt;br /&gt;
*Reset Board - A24&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are several other board designations used, however, they change from game to game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Wiring Color Code===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unlike every other pinball manufacturer, which adopted a two-color wiring code system, Gottlieb® used three colors.  Most wiring in a Gottlieb® game used a white base color, which is the wire&#039;s insulation color, and three &amp;quot;striped&amp;quot; traces on each wire.  I state most cases, because there are some wires which only used two colors - the green insulated ground lines which have a single yellow trace, or only one color - the white ground wires used in System 80B games with no trace at all.  Below is the Gottlieb® color chart.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!0&lt;br /&gt;
!1&lt;br /&gt;
!2&lt;br /&gt;
!3&lt;br /&gt;
!4&lt;br /&gt;
!5&lt;br /&gt;
!6&lt;br /&gt;
!7&lt;br /&gt;
!8&lt;br /&gt;
!9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Color || &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#000000&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Black&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#A52A2A&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Brown &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Red &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#FFA500&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Orange &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFF00&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Yellow &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Green &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Blue &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#800080&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Purple &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#FFFFFF; background:#808080&amp;quot;&amp;gt; Gray &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|| &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF&amp;quot;&amp;gt; White &amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
Does the color chart look familiar?  Well, if you have an electronics background, it should.  The Gottlieb® wire code system is the same as the resistor color coding system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some examples of the color coding system.  The color wire code for switch strobe line 0 is 400.  400 would be a white insulated wire with a yellow trace and two black traces, or commonly referred to as a yellow-black-black wire.  The ground lines in early System 80 games are code 54.  54 would be a green insulated wire with one yellow trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is one word of caution, which should be pointed out.  If the connections on A1J2 and A1J3 are being replaced, there are wire colors on these connections which are very similar.  Although each wire is located on a different housing, please proceed with caution, as it can be difficult to see all three traces without spinning the wire around.  The wires which come to mind are 344 and 677 on A1J2, and 433 and 766 on A1J3.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Wire Coloring====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80A1J6SwitchMatrixWireColors.png|right|thumb|500px|Gottlieb® System 80 Switch Matrix Wire Coloring at Connector A1J6. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Illustration provided with permission of Sascha Voskuil aka Zaza.&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
Wire colors used for the switch matrix, as connected to A1J6 on the MPU, were identical across all Gottlieb System 80/80A/80B games. They are, from pin 1 to 19, and right-to-left &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(backwards)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; as you view the front of the connector as installed on the MPU...&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-black-black&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-brown-brown&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-red-red&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-orange-orange&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-yellow-yellow&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-green-green&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-blue-blue&lt;br /&gt;
#yellow-purple-purple&lt;br /&gt;
#white (ground)&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-black-black&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-brown-brown&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-red-red&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-orange-orange&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-yellow-yellow&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-green-green&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-blue-blue&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-purple-purple&lt;br /&gt;
#blue-slate-slate (+5VDC)&lt;br /&gt;
#empty&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; that not all games use all rows and/or all columns of the switch matrix. Unused switch matrix circuits are left wired.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Switch Matrix Switch Numbering====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 switch matrix.png|left|thumb|600px|Gottlieb® System 80 Switch Matrix]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A / 80B switch matrix consists of a maximum of 64 switches.  There are a total of 8 switch strobes and 8 switch returns. However, not every switch in the matrix is used on every System 80 game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like the System 1 switch numbering system, the System 80 switch numbers have a similar naming convention.  Except, the System 80 switch numbering system is the opposite of System 1.  If you are accustomed to working on System 1 games, pay close attention.  With Gottlieb® System 80 switches the first number of the switch is its strobe number, while the second number is switch&#039;s return number.  An example would be switch 54.  Switch 54 is located on strobe 5 and return 4 of the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 0&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-1 / A1J5-2)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 1&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-2 / A1J5-3)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 2&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-3 / A1J5-4)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 3&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-4 / A1J5-5)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-5 / A1J5-6)&lt;br /&gt;
! Strobe 5&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-6 / A1J5-7)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 6&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-7)&lt;br /&gt;
!Strobe 7&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-8 / A1J5-9)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 0 (A1J6-10)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 00&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 10&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 20&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 30&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 40&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 50&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 60&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 70&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 1 (A1J6-11)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 01&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 11&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 21&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 31&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 41&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 51&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 61&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 71&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 2 (A1J6-12)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 02&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 12&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 22&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 32&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 42&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 52&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 62&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 72&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 3 (A1J6-13)&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 03&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 13&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 26&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 33&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 43&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 53&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 63&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 73&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 4 (A1J6-14)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 04&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 14&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 24&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 34&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 44&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 54&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 64&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 74&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 5 (A1J6-15)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 05&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 15&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 25&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 35&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 45&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 55&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 65&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 75&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 6&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-16 / A1J5-8)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 06&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 16&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 26&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 36&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 46&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 56&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 66&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 76&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center; font-weight: bold;&amp;quot; | Return 7&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
(A1J6-17 / A1J5-1)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 07&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 17&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 27&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 37&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 47&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 57&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 67&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|  style=&amp;quot;vertical-align: top; text-align: center;&amp;quot; | 77&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The &amp;quot;Missing&amp;quot; Gottlieb® System 80 Switches====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the Gottlieb® System 80 series of games, there are some switch assignments that are designated the same throughout the System 80, 80A, and 80B platforms.  These switches are typically not listed in the switch matrix portion of the manual.  You have to review the cabinet schematics, and decipher what switches use what return and strobe.  However, it appears that Gottlieb® / Premier® changed this section of the schematic starting with Excalibur or Bad Girls by no longer listing the strobes for these switches.  So, below are the &amp;quot;missing&amp;quot; switch assignments for any Sys80B.  All the info applies for Sys80 and Sys80A, except the two advance buttons, which weren&#039;t used prior to Sys80B.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;06&#039;&#039;&#039; - left advance button (Sys80B only)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;07&#039;&#039;&#039; - play / test switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039; - right advance button (Sys80B only)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;17&#039;&#039;&#039; - left coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;27&#039;&#039;&#039; - right coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;37&#039;&#039;&#039; - center coin switch&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;47&#039;&#039;&#039; - replay button&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&#039;&#039;&#039;57&#039;&#039;&#039; - plumb bob and ball roll tilts (these have the same switch assignment as the playfield tilt switch)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Black Hole is an exception.  The switch assigned for the tilt on Black Hole is 26.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The coin door slam switch is not part of the switch matrix.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Language Selection ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only way to change the language displayed is to install the correct language ROMs. Gottlieb didn’t incorporate a “soft” method of changing language selection. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Enabling Free Play===&lt;br /&gt;
Free play options were unavailable in the original System 80/80A/80B game code. However, there are some hardware modifications that can be done, stacked switches can be added to the start/credit button, or  EPROMs with free play code can replace original PROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play EPROMs====&lt;br /&gt;
For system 80/80A, the U2/U3 PROMs can be replaced with an [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Freeplay_EN.php EPROM with free play code]. Replacing U2/U3 will require an adapter, such as the [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=140-101 module from GreatPlainsElectronics], a [http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/sys80mod.php#system custom adapter board], or the Swemmer Electornics U2/U3 Adapter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For System 80B, the game PROM can be replaced with an [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php EPROM with free play code].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80 Games====&lt;br /&gt;
Early Gottlieb® solid state pinball machines, prior to 1990, did not have a free play option available within the game settings.  With this simple modification, a game can be set up for free play.  First, identify the diode strip in the bottom of the cabinet.  Once the diode strip is found, locate the credit button and coin switch strobe line wires.  The wires will be located on the left of the diode strip - the non-banded side of the diodes.  Below is a list of the wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Credit button wire - Green-Yellow-Yellow&lt;br /&gt;
* Left coin switch wire - Green-Brown-Brown&lt;br /&gt;
* Center coin switch wire - Green-Orange-Orange&lt;br /&gt;
* Right coin switch wire - Green-Red-Red&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtbsys80board.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical location of System 80 diode board in cabinet]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80FreePlayJumper.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 Black Hole diode board with jumper (yellow wire) to implement free play]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder a small lead wire from the credit button wire to any of the coin switch wires.  The wires will change to different colors on the other side of the diode. You want to solder to the side of the diode (non-banded) with the color wire specified above. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make certain that the diode, credit button wire, and coin switch wire are still soldered securely to the diode strip terminal when finished.  If soldering is not an option, use a small alligator clip test lead.  Now, when the credit button is pressed, a credit will be incremented and decremented.  A game can be easily started without the need to open the coin door to trip the coin switches anymore.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that this modification does not apply to Gottlieb® System 80A and System 80B machines.  System 80A and 80B machines use diode boards with edge connections, which are typically located on the cabinet wall near the left flipper cabinet switch.  Jumpering the diodes on System 80A and 80B games do not give the intended free play results of jumpered System 80 diodes.  This is attributed to how the diode boards are physically placed differently in circuit with respect to the switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TimeLineFreePlay.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Time Line diode board with jumper (the red wire...I mean...it&#039;s a red flippin&#039; wire. You HAVE to be able to see it!) to implement free play]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The picture at left ties the center coin chute wire (Green-Orange-Orange) to the credit button wire (Green-Yellow-Yellow).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80A Games====&lt;br /&gt;
There is no method to implement free play for System 80A games at this time, other than &amp;quot;stacking&amp;quot; the credit button switch with one of the coin drop switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Free Play for System 80B Games====&lt;br /&gt;
A System 80B game does not have a built-in free play option available, so the fallback option to add credits is usually to open the coin door and trip the coin switches. However, there are a couple of methods that can be used to avoid doing that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Free Play Diode Board Modification=====&lt;br /&gt;
Locate the diode board used for all of the coin door switches. Remove the diode board. Add a jumper between pin 4 and pin 10 of the diode board on the solder side of the board, (this can be done on the component side instead). Make certain that the jumper is soldered onto the banded side of the diodes. This jumper essentially ties the right advance button on the front of the cabinet to the center coin switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, when the right advance button is pressed, credits will be added to the game. There have not been any ill side effects observed when the right advance button is pressed while scrolling through characters used to enter high score initials.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An alternative method that achieves the same result is to use a jumper wire with minigrabber ends and clip them on to the bottom of the 4th and 9th diodes (from the right) on the front of the board. This requires no soldering and you don&#039;t even have to remove the diode board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The jumper modification should work on games from Chicago Cubs Triple Play to Excalibur. It is unconfirmed if it will work on Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Bone Busters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400 class=center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board.JPG|Typical location of System 80B diode board on cabinet wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added.JPG|Added jumper to back of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Location_Front.JPG|Location to add jumper to front of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80B_Coin_Door_Diode_Board_Jumper_Added_To_Front.JPG|Added minigrabber jumper to front of diode board&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Free Play ROM=====&lt;br /&gt;
Another option is a free play ROM, produced by a group of kindly fellows in France. By burning the revised image into a 2764, and installing the new ROM on the daughter card, the game will now be on free play. Their implementation notices when zero credits are on the game and the credit button has been pressed. The new code then adds 20 credits to the game, and starts a game. The System 80B free play ROMs can be found [http://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bookkeeping &amp;amp; Diagnostics ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 test button.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Coin Door Test Button Highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To enter the bookkeeping / diagnostic mode, open the coin door and press the red momentary switch. (Note this switch has no credit function)  Depending on the particular game, the self test button may be mounted on a bracket located on the coin door or just inside the cabinet near the coin door hinge.  Upon pressing this button, the 4-digit status display used with System 80 and System 80A games will display &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; in the credit window. Pressing the self test button again will advance to the next step in the bookkeeping.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an option to bypass all of the bookkeeping functions, entering diagnostic mode directly.  To achieve this, the self test button must first be pressed.  &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;00&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; will shown on the status display.  Then, the credit / start button should be pressed once.  The status display should now show &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;. &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; is the first test in diagnostic mode.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Bookkeeping (System 80/80A)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1 - Coins thru left chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2 - Coins thru right chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3 - Coins thru center chute&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4 - Total plays&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5 - Total replays&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6 - Game percentage&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7 - Extra ball&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
8 - Total tilts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
9 - Total slam tilts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
10 - Number of times the HSTD has been beaten&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
11 - First high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
12 - Second high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
13 - Third high score level&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
14 - High score to date score&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
15 - Average game time &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Diagnostics&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
16 - Lamp test&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
17 - Coil test (will cycle and display coil number of coils used in the game. Coin counter coils, if installed, are excluded)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
18 - Switch test. (99 = no fault)  You can check switch numbers by pressing them on the playfield during this step.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
19 - Display test. The displays will cycle through each digit&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
20 - Memory test. (99 = no fault)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80-7641-2Error.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 &amp;quot;7641&amp;quot; Error]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An example of a ROM image checksum error (or perhaps a ROM memory access error) displayed during test 20 is pictured at left. During test 20, if a checksum error is detected, the ROM code in U2/U3 will indicate &amp;quot;7641-X&amp;quot; in the player 1 display window, with &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; being &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; to indicate PROM 1 or &amp;quot;2&amp;quot; to indicate PROM 2. If you have followed the procedure to combine the original game ROMs into a single 2716, this error message is an indicator that the checksum of either the 1st half or the 2nd half of that ROM failed. Replace the ROM.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B uses the same process as System 80/80A to enter bookkeeping / diagnostics.  The only difference is upon pushing the self test button the first time, the top alphanumeric display will display &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;TEST MODE&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot;.  Pressing the self test button again will enter bookkeeping mode, while pressing the credit / start button will enter diagnostics mode.  After entering either mode, pressing the self test button will advance through each step in the appropriate mode.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any of the tests in diagnostics can be repeated by simply pressing the credit / start button.  This applies to all versions of System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following also applies to all System 80 platforms.  To exit bookkeeping or diagnostics, the slam switch or tilt switch can be triggered.  Equally, waiting 60 seconds will reset the CPU back to attract mode. This is probably the only benefit in keeping the slam switch functional.  However, considering the sometimes strange side effects, which can arise from a maladjusted or malfunctioning slam switch, [[Gottlieb_System_80#Slam_Switch_Modification | disabling the slam switch]] would probably the better approach.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Pausing the Lamp and Solenoid Test (System 80B Only)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80B left advance.jpg|left|thumb|150px|The left advance button on a System 80B Game]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The following only applies to System 80B lamp and solenoid tests.  A little known fact is that the lamp and solenoid tests can be &amp;quot;paused&amp;quot; on a single lamp or single solenoid.  To stop whichever item is being tested during lamp or solenoid test, and repeat the test on the particular item, simply push and hold in the left advance button located on the front of the cabinet, as shown in the picture to the left.  The left advance button can then be released, pressed, and held in again to step to the next item in the test.  This is a particularly nice feature, because the lamps and solenoids or relays tend to be pulsed rather quickly in test, and cannot be observed very well, until the test repeats itself.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Rubber Ring Chart===&lt;br /&gt;
Although the Gottlieb® System 80 game manuals do list the location and part numbers for rubber rings used, some fail to list the actual rubber ring size.  Below is a handy chart, which lists the Gottlieb® rubber OEM number and its size.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Gottlieb® #&lt;br /&gt;
!Description &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-14793 ||23/64&amp;quot; White Mini-Post&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-15705 ||27/64&amp;quot; White Mini-Post&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10217 ||5/16&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-17493 || 7/16&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10218 || 3/4&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10219 || 1&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10220 || 1-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10221 || 2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10222 || 2-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10223 || 3&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10224 || 3-1/2&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10225 || 4&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-10226 || 5&amp;quot; White Ring&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-13151 || 3/8 x 1-1/2&amp;quot; Standard Red Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-13149 || 3/8 x 1&amp;quot; - Small Beaded Red Flipper&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A-1344 || Rebound Rubber&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1872 || Shooter Tip&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===[[System 80 / 80A / 80B Board Set]]===&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking the link above will direct you to a new page showing all of the System 80/80A/80B boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 boards 3.png‎|800px|center|Gottlieb® System 80 Board Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===[[System 80 / 80A / 80B Satellite Boards]]===&lt;br /&gt;
Clicking the link above will direct you to a new page showing all of the System 80/80A/80B satellite boards.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Supply===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 psu.JPG‎|180px|thumb|left|System 80 / 80A Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 psu back.JPG|140px|thumb|right|System 80 / 80A Power Supply - Showing the Large Heat Sink]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 / 80A power supply is very similar to the System 1 power supply, where as the circuit board is secured to a large &amp;quot;hot plate&amp;quot; heat sink. This style power supply is used for all System 80 and 80A games from Spiderman to Ice Fever, and is the source of the following:&lt;br /&gt;
* +5 VDC logic power&lt;br /&gt;
*+8 VDC offset voltage needed for the displays&lt;br /&gt;
*+60 VDC for the 6 or 7 digit displays&lt;br /&gt;
*+42 VDC for the status display&lt;br /&gt;
*Ground from earth ground located on the transformer panel&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unlike the System 1 power supply, the +5 VDC logic power is no longer rectified and filtered on the power supply itself.  This process is now handled by a bridge rectifier and a large filtering capacitor located on the transformer panel.  The System 80 power still employs a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crowbar_%28circuit%29 crowbar circuit] for the logic power, which protects from over-voltage situations.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Although these power supplies are fairly reliable, there are some drawbacks to the design.  By incorporating a large heat sink for the PMD10K40 / 2N6059 TO-3 transistor on the board, a lot of heat is dissipated throughout the whole board.  This in turn will limit the life expectancy of the other electronic components on the board.  Equally, the heat sink must be removed in order to perform component level repairs to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply==== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A sound &amp;amp; speech board (S&amp;amp;S) is used starting with Mars God of War (MGOW).  Because of the voltages needed to drive some of the components on the S&amp;amp;S board, this secondary power supply is added to the power train.  The voltages generated from this board are:&lt;br /&gt;
*+12 VDC used for the analog inverters and voice synthesizer chip&lt;br /&gt;
*-12 VDC used for the analog inverters&lt;br /&gt;
*+30 VDC used by the sound amplifier (LM379)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 sands power1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply (1st Generation)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are two different variations of this power supply.  The first style is used only with MGOW and Volcano, and is not a printed circuit board (PCB).  The electronic components were screwed to a block of wood, which is located on the left wall of the lower cabinet.  Conducting tests and repairs to this style power supply can be awkward and difficult.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 s&amp;amp;s psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 / 80A Sound &amp;amp; Speech Power Supply (2nd Generation)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Black Hole, the S&amp;amp;S power supply is now on a circuit board (MA-188), which is located in the head of the game with the other circuit boards.  Even though each style of S&amp;amp;S power supply uses different components for the generation of +12 VDC, the end result is the same.  The S&amp;amp;S power supply was no longer used when Gottlieb® went a step backwards, and installed the System 80A sounds only board with the piggyback board.  This change occurred during the run of Amazon Hunt.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; The generation 1 and generation 2 sound board power supplies are not pin compatible. One could be exchanged for the other by rearranging connections of a 9-pin molex connector. However, this is not recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Power Supplies====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Chicago Cubs, the Gottlieb® power train went through a bit of a face lift. The System 80B platform uses two separate boards to supply power.  This design change is mainly due to the single display board, which rectifies the high voltage on the board itself.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B +5 VDC Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The small power supply with the finned heat sink is only used to generate +5 VDC for logic power.  Although, removing the heat sink is not necessary to work on the board, this power supply has its own set of issues.  First, it does not have a crow bar circuit.  If the LM338K voltage regulator fails, and fails whereas the voltage increases drastically, it can destroy electronic components on the other circuit boards.  Secondly, it&#039;s not as bad, but heat is still dissipated throughout the board.  Third, the adjustable potentiometer (pot) on the power supply is prone to failure, due to dirt, dust, and contaminants.  Finally, it is typical for the header pins on the input and output of the board to develop cracked solder joints.  The two latter problems can easily be overcome, and will be addressed in the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Repairs_for_the_System_80B_Power_Supply_Board Recommended Repairs for the System 80B Power Supply Board] section below.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b aux psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Rock, the second power supply is added, and is referred to as the auxiliary power supply. The primary functions of this board is used to power the sound board, and amplify the audio output. This sound amplifier board is used in concert with MA-766 and MA-886 sound boards. A breakdown of the voltages supplied by the auxiliary power supply are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
*-12 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
*+12 VDC&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80B-MA1017AuxPowerSupply.jpg |200px|thumb|left|System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply with .156 headers versus edge connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BoneBustersSpecificAmpBoard.jpg |200px|thumb|right|A BoneBusters Inc specific Auxiliary Power Supply]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This Auxiliary Power Supply board changed with the release of Bad Girls. Edge connections were no longer used. Instead, .156&amp;quot; header pins were added to the board as shown at left. Note that the System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply board is slightly different from the System 3 Auxiliary Power Supply board. The System 80B board uses a 1K ohm, 2 watt resistor at R8. The System 3 board uses a 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistor at that location.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=347 Bone Busters Inc.] uniquely used a modified Auxiliary Power Supply board as pictured at right. A connection was made between pin 12 and the intersection of R1 and R2 to connect the audio output of the second, less populated sound board to the amplifier circuitry. A 1.8K ohm 1/4 watt resistor makes the connection while balancing the audio level from this input. No other game used pin 12 or this configuration.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===CPU Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 cpu divided.png‎|200px|left|thumb|Gottlieb® System 80 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 CPU board is a 6502 based microprocessor system. The 6502 microprocessor (the very same one used in the first Apple computer and the Atari 2600) executes the basic operating system contained in the masked ROMs at U2/U3.  The masked ROMs at U2 and U3 have the same code for all of the different generations of the System 80 platform.  U2 and U3 code changed with the System 80A platform.  The game code &amp;quot;personality&amp;quot; augments the basic operating system PROM(s).  Early System 80 games which used two ROMs at PROM1 and PROM2 positions were masked ROMs.  Later, when the game code could be held in a single 2716, an EPROM was used instead. Battery-backed memory for audits and adjustable game parameters is added via a 5101 256x4 bit CMOS memory at Z5. &amp;quot;Scratchpad&amp;quot; memory is contained in the three 6532 RIOTs.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Control of peripheral devices (in this case lamps, displays, solenoids, switches and sound) is accomplished via three 6532 RIOTs (RAM-I/O-Timer) at U4, U5, and U6. Each RIOT in turn controls it&#039;s own &amp;quot;subsystem&amp;quot; to drive these devices.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Switch matrix (U4)&lt;br /&gt;
*Displays (U5)&lt;br /&gt;
*Solenoids (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
*Lamps (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
*Sound (U6)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are four generations of the System 80 board.  All of the CPU boards can be easily identified by their revision numbers notated just below the operator adjustable dip switches.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Using a WDC 65C02 in a System 80/80A/80B MPU====&lt;br /&gt;
Western Design Center (WDC) has reproduced the 6502 in a CMOS version designated 65C02. I works perfectly in all System 80 MPUs with one modification. Pin 36 of the 65C02 must be pulled up to Vcc (5VDC) via a 3K (or 3.3K) pull-up resistor. Pin 36 (BE) is the &amp;quot;bus enable&amp;quot; input which allows external control of the 65C02 busses. Pin 36 is unused by original 6502s and not connected to anything on System 80 MPU boards. Simply tack soldering a 3 - 3.3K resistor between pin 36 and a 5VDC trace will do the trick.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====1st Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 CPU 1st ver.JPG|240px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first generation CPU is used in the first 5 System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-001&lt;br /&gt;
*DET PB03-D102-001&lt;br /&gt;
*REV B&lt;br /&gt;
This board uses two masked PROM chips for the game code.  The chips are typically labeled with the three digit game model number followed by /1 or /2, designating the game PROM position.  An example of this naming convention is shown in the pic to the left.  652/1X and 652/2X are game PROM 1 and PROM 2 for Panthera.  The &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; in this case designates a code revision.  The masked ROMs at position U2 and U3 are not socketed on this board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With some simple modifications, this board is upward compatible to use a single 2716 EPROM placed in the PROM 1 socket of the board.  With the change of U2 and U3, this board can be used in System 80A games.  The board could potentially be used in a System 80B game with many modifications, and the addition of a daughter board, however, it is not recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:EarlySystem80MPUFactoryCutJumper.jpg|240px|thumb|left|The corrected trace layout error in the 1St generation System 80 MPU]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This generation of board has a trace layout error that was corrected by a cut and jumper which moves the trace that terminates at Z5 (5101) pin 20 from Z36 pin 10 to pin 9.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 cpu front scale.png|240px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation (Front)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 cpu back scale.png|240px|thumb|right|System 80 CPU Board - 1st Generation (Back)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;skeletal&amp;quot;, semi-populated board scans can be very useful when having to replace or follow traces on a CPU board.  Although the scans are of the 1st generation CPU board, most areas can be used for other generation CPU boards too.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====2nd Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Placeholder for System 80 CPU Board - 2nd Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
The second generation CPU is used in some System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-??? (check boards for the suffix)&lt;br /&gt;
*DETAIL PB03-D107-001&lt;br /&gt;
This board uses a single 2716 EPROM chip for the game code located at the PROM 1 socket position.  The chips are typically labeled with the three digit game model number.  Occasionally, the chip&#039;s game number label will be followed by /1, /2, /3, or even /4. In this case, the number following the slash is the code revision number.  An example of this naming convention is 658 /2, which is a game PROM for James Bond - code revision 2.  The masked ROMs at position U2 and U3 are not socketed on this board either.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the change of U2 and U3, this board can be used in System 80A games.  The board could potentially be used in a System 80B game with many modifications, and the addition of a daughter board, however, it again is not recommended.  The second generation CPU is backward compatible, provided a doubled up, single game PROM is used at the PROM 1 position.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====3rd Generation CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80 CPU 2nd gen.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80 CPU Board - 3rd Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
The third generation CPU is used in some System 80 games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*ASSY PB03-D100-011&lt;br /&gt;
*DETAIL PB03-D107-003&lt;br /&gt;
This board is essentially the same as the second generation board, except an eyelet ground trace was placed just above Z33 on the board.  This ground trace was never used.  All information which applies to the second generation CPU board, applies to this board.  The third generation CPU is backward compatible, provided the same is done to it as the 2nd generation board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====4th Generation CPU Board (System 80A)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80A CPU.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80A CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The fourth generation CPU is used in all System 80A games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*D 20869&lt;br /&gt;
This board is the same as the third generation board, except the U2 and U3 masked ROM chips have different code, and are now socketed.  The PROM 2 socket is no longer populated on the board.  The fourth generation CPU is backward compatible, provided the System 80 ROM code is installed at U2 and U3.  If used on a game with the 1st generation CPU, the game code must be doubled up on a 2716 EPROM, and installed at the PROM 1 position.  This board is forward compatible with System 80B, provided all of the above outlined modifications are performed.  Out of all the System 80 CPU boards, this is the most compatible with System 80B, due to using the same base circuit board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====5th Generation CPU Board (System 80B)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80B CPU.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B CPU Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The fifth generation CPU is used in all System 80B games, and is marked with the following:&lt;br /&gt;
*D 20869&lt;br /&gt;
Even though the base circuit board is identical to the fourth generation CPU board, it&#039;s being named the fifth generation board, due to all of the major changes.  The U2 and U3 masked ROM and sockets have been replaced with a piggyback daughter board soldered via header pins mounted in the U3 position.  The daughter board uses a 2764 EPROM.  Most of the related display segment and digit chips are no longer populated.  This is due to the single display board handling these functions on its own board.  The missing chips once used for the displays are Z19, Z21, Z22, Z23, Z24, and Z25. Equally, jumpers have been placed where Z19 and Z21 once resided. The fifth generation CPU is backward compatible, after the daughter board has been removed, and the missing display chips populated.  Note that there technically are two different 80B CPU boards - MA-774 and MA-1133.  The only difference between these two boards is a cut trace on the component side and a long trace wire added on the solder side from the E3 jumper to pin 35 of TC1. This modification is done to increase the ROM size of PROM 2 from a 2716 to a 2732.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Any of the Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A / 80B CPU boards are compatible cross platform.  It&#039;s just matter of how much work must be done to modify each board.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====U2/U3 ROM Part Numbers====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80ROMs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80 ROMs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All Gottlieb System 80 U2/U3 ROMs will be labeled as pictured at left.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U2 is labeled &amp;quot;R3273-12&amp;quot; on the center line. The top line is the part number, a 2332 ROM. The bottom line is the date code, in this case, the 15th week of 1981.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
U3 is labeled &amp;quot;R3272-12&amp;quot; on the center line. The top line is the part number, a 2332 ROM. The bottom line is the date code, in this case, the 12th week of 1981.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80AROMs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80A ROMs]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb System 80A ROMs may be labeled in a few different ways since Gottlieb used several manufacturers to provide the ROMs. A clear indication that the ROMs are for System 80A games is that somewhere in the labeling, &amp;quot;XO-326 U2&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;XO-327 U3&amp;quot; will be shown as pictured at left.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Driver Board===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 drvr pw.png|160px|thumb|left|The System 80A / 80B Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Driver board is responsible for all controlled lamps, relays, and all solenoids in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via a simple interface between A1J4 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.  Although the driver board went through some minor changes over the years, the same board can be adapted for all of the System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; total of 52 &#039;&#039;&#039;lamp circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the interface provides &amp;quot;device select&amp;quot; signals for each of the 74175s (Quad-D Flip-Flops) on the driver board, and 4 &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; of data that is loaded (or &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot;) into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives an MPS-A13 or MPS-U45 transistor, (NDS-U45 transistors were used in place of MPS-U45s in some cases). Gottlieb® did not implement a &amp;quot;lamp matrix&amp;quot; as some other manufacturers did.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that there are some dedicated lamp transistors, which control specific game relays across the System 80 / 80A platforms.  Relays such as the game over, tilt, and coin lockout relays are controlled by Q1, Q2, and Q3 respectively.  The tilt and game over relays use the same designation for the System 80B platform, however, the use of a coin lockout relay was abandoned by this time. One neat feature of the driver board circuitry is that lamp &amp;quot;n&amp;quot; is driven by transistor Q&amp;quot;n+1&amp;quot;. i.e. L12 is driven by Q13.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_drvr_board_coin_ctrs.JPG|160px|thumb|left|Driver Board with Coin Counter Transistors Highlighted ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;solenoids circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the driver board uses signals directly from the CPU to enable transistors on the driver board which turn on up to 9 solenoids.  For solenoid control, the driver board uses MPS-U45, 2N3055, and 2N6043 transistors.  Starting and ending with the System 80 platform, (games from Spiderman to Haunted House), three transistors were reserved to drive optional mechanical coin counters. These mechanical coin counter solenoids and associated transistors are: solenoid 3 (Q54), 4 (Q55), and 7 (Q56). Starting with the System 80A platform, (Devil&#039;s Dare), these transistors were no longer reserved for coin counters, and were used for other functions. Equally, the 3 diodes associated with these 3 transistors were changed to 3 zero ohm jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;sound&#039;&#039;&#039; signals (S1, S2, S4, S8) also pass through the driver board at Z13, a 7404 Hex Inverter. See below for S16 and S32.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
====Repurposed Driver Board Circuits====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb under pf transistor.JPG‎|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Remote Transistor Mounted Under the Playfield]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since quite a few System 80 games employ more than 9 solenoids, and since the original driver board design will drive a maximum of 9 solenoids, Gottlieb® repurposed some lamp outputs to drive &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot; which drive additional solenoids.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb ma1011 trans board.JPG‎|160px|thumb|left| A Typical Transistor Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once playfields became littered with numerous &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot;, Gottlieb® opted to merge some of these transistors into a transistor driver board.  The transistor driver board started to appear on Gottlieb® games nearly midway through the System 80B platform, with the game Victory.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
The sound S16 and S32 signals are also repurposed lamp outputs. For instance, Haunted House and Black Hole both repurpose L9 to S16. Robo-War repurposes lamp 4 to S16. Note that S16 is not consistently implemented across the System 80 family. Note also that references to the usage of S32 are difficult to find.&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Lamp Driver Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb aux lamp 5.JPG|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Aux. Lamp Driver Board Using MPS-U45 Transistors (Maximum Control of 10 Lamps]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb aux lamp MA866 2N6043.JPG|140px|thumb|right| A Typical Aux. Lamp Driver Board Using 2N6043 Transistors (Controls a Maximum of 20 Lamps]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Time Line, several System 80/80A/80B platform games use auxiliary lamp driver boards.  These boards are commonly referred to as &amp;quot;chaser boards&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;lamp chaser boards&amp;quot;.  The reason for either of these nicknames is because these boards are used to control lamps for effect.  They are either placed in the backbox or under the playfield.  With later System 80B games, they were located in the lower cabinet.  Location is typically dependent upon what lamps are being controlled.  The aux. lamp driver boards are not controlled by the CPU.  The only signals needed for an aux. lamp driver board to function is +5V and ground.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several different variants of auxiliary lamp driver boards used.  The earliest versions use MPS-U45 transistors to control a maximum of three lamps per transistor.  Both 15 and 30 lamp versions (5 or 10 transistors) of this board exist.  Some later boards use NDS-U45 transistors instead of MPS-U45 transistors.  It is assumed this is due to a the cost or lack of MPS-U45 transistors during production.  Either of these style of boards are interchangeable with one another.  Finally, there are some boards used in later games which use 2N6043 transistors.  These are designed to control #67 flashlamps, but this is not always the case.  This style board was used to control lamps also.  These boards are equally compatible with previous designed boards, when used as a complete, drop-in replacement.  However, MPS-U45, NDS-U45, and CEN-U45 transistors are not 1-to-1 compatible with 2N6043 transistors.  A viable replacement transistor for the 2N6043 is the TIP102.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main difference between any of the auxiliary lamp boards is the amount of transistors used to drive lamps, and the resistor (R13) used to control the rate at which the lamps flash or &amp;quot;chase&amp;quot;.  Boards using 2N6043 transistors have different resistor values for resistors R2-R11 than boards which use MPS-U45s or NDS-U45s.  A table of auxiliary lamp driver boards used on most games is shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Game&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Total Transistors&lt;br /&gt;
!Total Lamps Controlled&lt;br /&gt;
!R13 Resistor Value&lt;br /&gt;
!Controls&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Time Line|| ||10||?||820K Ohm||Chaser lamps behind nuclear symbol on backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|Mars:God of War|| ||10||28||330K Ohm||Backglass perimeter chaser lamps||In backbox||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mars:God of War|| ||5||10 (LEDs)||330K Ohm||LEDs behind tube||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Volcano|| ||10||20||560K Ohm||Upper backglass perimeter chaser lamps and volcano effect behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Black Hole|| ||10||28||270K Ohm||Backglass perimeter chaser lamps||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Haunted House||MA-234||10||21||270K Ohm||Behind backglass lightning effect lamps||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rocky|| ||10||19||560K Ohm||Behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spirit|| ||10||20||Varies||Behind backglass||In backbox||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tag Team Pinball|| ||10||20||820K Ohm||Multiball insert illumination||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock|| ||10||18||680K Ohm||Extra ball insert path||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rock Encore|| ||10||18||680K Ohm||Extra ball insert path||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Raven|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Inserts leading to ramp||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Hollywood Heat|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Ramp insert illumination||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| ||10||10 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||In top of backbox ||Under PF||Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Genesis|| ||10||10 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Around playfield window ||Under PF||Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||8 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Flashers in topper ||Under PF||1 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||6 (#67 Flashers)||680K Ohm||Flashers in topper ||Under PF||2 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Gold Wings|| ||10||10||680K Ohm||Inserts leading to ramp ||Under PF||3 of 3&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| ||10||5||680K Ohm||Behind $10,000,000 sign||Under PF||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Monte Carlo|| ||10||30||680K Ohm||Lamps around perimeter of topper||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| ||10||30||680K Ohm||In topper||Under PF||1 of 2; only if topper present?&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Spring Break|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Special shot and shooter loop||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Arena||MA-936||None||10 (LEDs)||560K Ohm||LED strip under shooter lane wireform ||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| ||10||10 (#86 bulbs)||680K Ohm||Next to left ramp||Under PF||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Victory|| ||10||10 (#86 bulbs)||680K Ohm||Next to right ramp||Under PF||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diamond Lady||MA-789||10||5||680K Ohm||Loop right of the ramp||Under PF||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| ||10||20||680K Ohm||Inserts in lower portion of playfield ||Lower cabinet||(1 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Robo-War|| ||10||10 ||680K Ohm||Under playfield glass stop||Lower cabinet||(2 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| ||10||5||680K Ohm||Drop target illumination ||Lower cabinet||1 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bad Girls|| ||10||10 ||10M Ohm||Under playfield glass stop||Lower cabinet||2 of 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters||MA-789||10||12||680K Ohm||Playfield inserts ||Under PF||(1 of 2) Uses NSD-U45&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bone Busters||MA-866||10||20 (#67 flashers)||680K Ohm||Backbox lamp insert||In backbox||(2 of 2) Uses 2N6043&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® uses different sound boards throughout the course of all System 80 platforms.  Several of the sound boards cross platforms too.  Out of all of the sound boards used, there is really only about three base units total with variations made to each one.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sounds Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound Board MA-55 (Sounds only)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The first System 80 sound board is capable of sound only.  Based on the 6503 CPU architecture, this sound board is very similar to the System 1 Multi-Mode sound board.  However, there are a couple of differences between the two boards.  First, the +12VDC is no longer rectifed on the sound board.  The +12VDC power comes from the power supply.  Secondly, the +5VDC is no longer regulated on the sound board. The System 80 sound receives +5VDC from the power supply also.  Finally, the pin outs for the System 1 sound board and the System 80 sound board are completely different.  Even though either board will plug into either platform,  &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT PLUG A SYSTEM 1 SOUND BOARD INTO A SYSTEM 80 GAME AND VICE VERSA!!!&#039;&#039;&#039;  If this is done, bad stuff will happen.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, there are two chips on this style of board which are very difficult to source. This sound board uses a 6503 CPU and 6530 RIOT chip with special embedded code. 6530 chips marked with R3016-11 are for this System 80 sound board. 6530 chips marked with a R3014-12 or R3014-13 are for the earlier System 1 sound board. The two chips are not cross-compatible since they each have different code embedded in them for each game system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In addition to being used in early System 80 games, this sounds-only board was also used in the export versions of Black Hole, Volcano, and Devil&#039;s Dare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the sound board is missing or cannot be repaired, there are daughter boards and aftermarket boards available.  A daughter board called the &amp;quot;[https://coinop.mally.eu/produkt.php?bestellnr=101647&amp;amp;details=1 MIOT adapter]&amp;quot; is a replacement for the 6530 chip for both System 1 and System 80 sounds boards, produced in Germany. Pascal Janin in France has made a replacement sound board for both the original 2nd generation sound boards, and combination System 1 2nd gen boards / System 80/80A sound boards. These boards can purchased directly from Pascal - [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx1.php 2nd gen sound] &amp;amp; [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php combination Sys1 / Sys80/80A sound] . Although Pascal does not have US distributors, [http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/flippp.html Big Daddy Enterprises], sometimes has these sound boards available too.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Prototype Sounds Only Board as found in System 80 Hulk&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Images below capture a factory original Sounds only board prototype, complete with cuts (on component side) and jumpers (on solder side). Note the sound ROM marking of &amp;quot;500&amp;quot;, the game number assigned to the System 80 Hulk prototype (10 units built). Also note the &amp;quot;extra&amp;quot; 24 pin IC labeled 7681-5 in the center of the board. This IC is not present on production versions of this board. Just a guess, but since this board has a 6532 installed vs the production 6530 (40 pin IC), the 7681 appears to be ROM space to drive the sound program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=450px heights=250px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 Hulk Prototype Sound Only Board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80HulkSoundsOnlyBoardFront.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Component side. Note &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot; at pin 21 of the center 24 pin IC.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80HulkSoundsOnlyBoardBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Solder side. Note factory green jumpers.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80&amp;amp;a s&amp;amp;s.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A B-20887-2 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Front.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A B-20887-3 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Mars God of War, the second System 80 sound board has the capability of speech.  Ironically, this board is commonly referred to as the &amp;quot;sound and speech board&amp;quot;, and was brought over from the Gottlieb® video game division at the time.  Fortunately, Gottlieb® chose the 6502 CPU architecture just like the CPU board.  There is a 6532 RIOT used also.  The downside to this board is the now rare LM379S amp and SC-01 phoneme speech chip are both difficult to acquire.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are approximately three renditions of this board.  Each will be marked with [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Different_Revisions_of_the_Sound_and_Speech_Boards B-20887-X].  The &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; denotes a suffix of 1, 2, or 3.  If the board has [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap wire wrap] or resistors added to the solder side of the board, do not assume that it is some sort of diabolical, weird hack.  These were recommended upgrades either done by the factory or out in the field.  With each higher revision number, less wire wrap and resistors are present on the solder side of the board.  However, each board revision typically has some degree of wire wrap added to it.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics corresponding to the -1 revision of the board can be found in the Mars, God of War and Volcano manuals. Schematics corresponding to the -3 revision of the board can be found in the Black Hole and Haunted House manuals.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound MA483 pig.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80A Sound Board w/ MA-483 Piggyback Board (replaces LM379S amp)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback.JPG|130px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® MA-483 Piggyback Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To reduce costs, Gottlieb® abandoned the speech option, and went a step backwards with a board generating sounds only.  In doing so, they used the same B-20887-3 base board as the most current sound and speech board.  The SC-01 speech chip socket in addition to the 74xx TTL chips, one of the LM741 op amps, and discrete components associated with the speech circuit were not installed on the board.  By the time this board was first used, the LM379S amp was too costly and difficult to source.  The solution was to add a single-side, piggyback board (as shown in the picture) with a TDA2002 amplifier and other necessary components.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If this board is used as a replacement in a game which uses a sound &amp;amp; speech power supply, (Haunted House for example), modifications to the s&amp;amp;s power supply must be made.  This is due to the higher voltages necessary to operate the LM379S amp versus the TDA2002.  If this board is installed in a game where the sound and speech board power supply was not modified, the guarantee of destroying the TDA2002 amp is inevitable.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sound Only Board with Piggyback====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80a&amp;amp;b sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A / 80B Sound Board MA-490 w/ MA-488 Piggyback Board (Sounds only)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb piggyback sound factory trace wire.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80A / 80B Sound Board w/ Factory Trace Wire]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To reduce costs even more, Gottlieb® started using a modified sound only board, which was first used with Spiderman in 1980.  This &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; sound board was first used during the production of Amazon Hunt, and continued until Tag Team Pinball. The main modification of the board was the addition of a piggyback board.  The piggyback board was used to increase the size of the sound ROM by using a 2716 EPROM.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Two other noteworthy modifications are an added factory trace wire on the solder side of the board, and a cut trace between pin 8 of U7 (7404) and a header pin on the component side of the board. The added trace wire runs from pin 3 of U1 (6503 CPU) to pin 18 of U2 (piggyback header pins).  Both of these modifications should remain intact for the board to function properly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is also worth mentioning that this is one of the few instances where Gottlieb® used a double-sided piggyback board.  The benefit of using a double-sided board is the decreased chance of cracked header pins, where the header pins attach to the underside of the piggyback board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (two button)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB Sys80B Sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-766 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
And now for something completely different.  Well, not really.  The MA-766 sound board hit the scene with Rock, but a similar design was already used prior by the Gottlieb® video game division (Mylstar) when it existed.  It is based on the 6502 CPU architecture, but uses two 6502s instead of one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Two momentary push button switches are present on the board - SW1 and SW2.  Upon pushing SW1, the sound board should output a single blip (tone).  SW2 is used to manually reset the CPU on the sound board.  A bank of 4 dipswitches is located adjacent to SW1.  Dipswitches 1-3 should always be off, while dipswitch 4 should remain on for proper function.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (one button)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80b MA886 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886 Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTBMA886SoundDepop.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886 Sound Board, only partially populated (found in Big House, Hollywood Heat, Bad Girls, etc.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 board is essentially the same as the previous sound board, except it uses 2 separate .156&amp;quot; header pin connections instead of edge connectors for inputs / outputs. Some other obvious changes are the omission of momentary test button SW1, the omission of the 4-bank dipswitch, the omission of YROM2 socket. In addition, a socket is sometimes populated at position S4 and neither AY-3-8913 orator chip is populated.  Momentary test button SW2 is still preset, and is still used to manually reset the board&#039;s processor.  The lack of YROM2 is because the MA-886 board allows for the use of larger EPROMs.  The S4 socket has been added on some boards, and is used to transfer data via a ribbon cable to an auxiliary sound board (MA-1033 or MA-1294). These boards also stuff R58 with a 10K 1/4W resistor and may have JP8 cut or not stuffed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Bone Busters Sound Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MA766-719A.jpg ‎|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-886-719A Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886-719A sound board (also noted as MA-1299-719 in the manual) is an additional sound board found only in Bone Busters. It is based on the MA-886 sound board, but it is a stripped down version with much fewer populated components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Amazon Hunt II Sound Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-982 Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-982 sound board is used only in the conversion game: Amazon II. It is based on the MA-886 sound board, but it is a stripped down version with much fewer populated components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Auxiliary Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
There are two versions of the auxiliary sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:MA1033AuxSound.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1033 Auxiliary Sound Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-1033 auxiliary sound board was used in System 80B games including: Bad Girls, Big House, and Hot Shots, as well as one System 3 game: Lights, Camera, Action.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys3 sound MA-1294.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1294 Auxiliary Sound Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-1294 auxiliary sound board was only used in one System 80B game, Bone Busters, as well as System 3 games including: Hoops, Bell Ringer, Silver Slugger, Car Hop, Deadly Weapon, Title Fight, and Vegas.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Speakers===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Panthera Head Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Typical speaker located in the head of a System 80 game (Panthera)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games use a dual speaker system.  In most cases, (where there is a grill above the backglass), there is a 6-1/2&amp;quot;, 8 ohm, low wattage speaker in the lower cabinet, and a second one in the head, behind the grill in the backbox.  Some games, like Haunted House, have two speakers in the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB-80a-the-games-speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Single speaker from an 80A game (The Games)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;System 80A games may have two speakers or just one. Again, these are 6-1/2&amp;quot;, 4 ohm, low wattage speakers.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Tag Team Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Single speaker from an early 80B game (Tag Team)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Early System 80B games, Chicago Cubs, Tag Team, and Bounty Hunter, all use a single 6-1/2&amp;quot; 4 ohm speaker in the lower cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Rock, 80Bs use a 6-1/4&amp;quot; in the cabinet and a small speaker on the left of the display panel.  The last few 80B games, where the speaker panel is located above the translite, use three speakers total (2 above the translite and 1 in the lower cabinet).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Displays===&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 6 digit display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 6 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 6 digit display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 6 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80=====&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is step number 19 System 80 games. Each display, including the credit/match display participates in &amp;quot;walking&amp;quot; each digit (0 through 9 beginning with 0) across each display. The &amp;quot;walking&amp;quot; begins at the match side of the credit/match display, then moves to players 1 and 3, then to players 2 and 4. After a &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is walked through all displays, the cycle starts again with &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 7 digit display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A 7 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB 7 digit display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80A 7 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GTB status display back.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® 4 Digit Display (Back)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80A=====&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is step number 19 System 80A games. Each display lights every position, and advances through all of the numbers starting with &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; and ending with &amp;quot;9&amp;quot;.  Once &amp;quot;9&amp;quot; is reached, the process starts over at &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; again.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayFront.jpg‎|260px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-644 Display Component Side]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayBack.jpg‎|260px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-644 Display Solder Side]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games introduced the 20 alphanumeric character dual line display module. These displays evolved over time. The one pictured here was used in games Chicago Cubs Triple Play until Excalibur. The two large ICs found on this board (Rockwell 10941 segment driver and Rockwell 10939 digit driver) are long obsolete and very hard to obtain. Other components on the board are readily available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board rectifies 32VAC via diodes CR1-CR4 to produce -45VDC and -15VDC for use by the segment and digit drivers. Should one or more of these diodes fail, the foil trace on the board sometimes acts like a fuse, and burns itself up. The picture at right shows a board that experienced this failure, along with a jumper to repair the damaged trace.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[FILE:GTB_80B_Large_AlphN_Display.JPG|260px|thumb|left|Gottlieb System 80B MA-999 Alpha-Numeric Display Board with header pin connections. (Bad Girls)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The last System 80B games (Hot Shots, Big House, Bad Girls, and Bone Busters) all used a larger alphanumeric vacuum fluorescent display assembly.  This type of display used two sets of .156&amp;quot; header pins instead of the more familiar edge connection.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Display Test - System 80B=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb alphanum display test.gif|thumb|left|160px|Simulation of System 80B display test]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Display test is test number 20 for System 80B.  All 40 of the alpha-numeric &amp;quot;digits&amp;quot; (both the top and bottom displays) will light starting with a &amp;quot;0&amp;quot;, next a &amp;quot;+&amp;quot;, then an &amp;quot;X&amp;quot;, and finally a &amp;quot;,&amp;quot;.  In doing this, all possible segments of all the display digits are lit at one point during display test.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Reset Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 reset.JPG|thumb|left|160px|Gottlieb® System 80 / 80B MA-980 Reset Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Newer Reset Board.jpg|thumb|right|160px|Gottlieb® System 80B MA-1143 Reset/Anti-Static Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Devil&#039;s Dare, the first System 80A game, the reset board became a staple of the Gottlieb® design to automatically reset the CPU board should the CPU lock up.  Apparently games locking up on location was an issue with System 80 games.  The reset board was created to resolve this issue, should the game lock up, and no one is present to manually reset the game by shutting it off and turning it back on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-980 reset board is a small footprint PCB with the board designation of A24, and is located adjacent to the TC1 connector of the CPU board.  The connection on the reset board is A24P1, while the connection for TC1 of the CPU board is A24P2.  As long as someone can turn the game off, should it lock up, there is no need to keep the reset board connected.  In most cases, the aged reset boards are more troublesome if allowed to remain connected.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTBResetBoardConnector.jpg|thumb|left|160px|Connection at TC1 to the reset board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB_RW_3K_Pullup.JPG|thumb|right|160px|A 3.0Kohm resistor, added between pins 7 and 11 of TC1.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Along with adding the reset board, Gottlieb® added a 3.0Kohm resistor across pins 7 and 11 of the reset board connection at MPU connector TC1. If not using the reset board, it&#039;s advised to add this resistor to the back of the board, as shown at right. This resistor pulls the R/W (read/write) line high when not pulled down by the 6502.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If using connector A24-P2, do not add the 3.0Kohm resistor.  Doing so will change the effective resistance to 1.5Kohms (value of resistors in parallel).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The reset board connector also has a 1N270 diode soldered to it. There is no need to add this diode to the MPU since it&#039;s part of the reset board function.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;More Regarding the 3Kohm Pullup Resistor&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Most MPU boards will work without the reset board but some MPU boards do refuse to work without the Read/Write pullup resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 3K resistor was added for two reasons:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#It provides a stable Read/Write signal at power-up. There is a tiny fraction of time at power up where data can be written into Z5 but due to gate Z36A, this data write is prevented. The resistor does provide a proper biasing to the Read/Write line at time of powerup.&lt;br /&gt;
#More importantly - A Rockwell 6502 has a minimum VOH of 2.4volts, a 4069 requires a minimum VIH of 4 volts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In other words:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The Read/Write output from U1 (pin 34) guarantees the output will be 2.4 volts or higher for a logic 1.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The 4069 located at Z36D (pin 9 input of Z36) requires the input to be 4 volts or higher for a logic 1.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*The 3K pullup resistor pulls the Z36D input closer to the required voltage range.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do realize that even though this problem exists on all System 80/80A/80B boards but only a very small fraction of these Gottlieb boards exhibit any symptoms. The chances that you have one if these that exhibit symptoms is quite slim.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Initial Troubleshooting===&lt;br /&gt;
When attempting to troubleshoot a malfunctioning or non-booting game, there are a few initial steps to perform before diving into more serious troubleshooting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# If the MPU has damage from a leaking battery, it will need to be addressed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off all the edge connector contacts using a pink rubber eraser. This will remove any tarnish or grime that has built up over the years. Do not use sandpaper or fiberglass erasers on the contacts--they will only thin the material. There is a small risk that rubbing the eraser on the contacts will dislodge one of them, but this is very uncommon to see happen on system 80 boards.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check all the fuses using a multimeter in diode/continuity mode. Do not rely on a visual inspection. Sometimes a fuse will appear to be intact, but actually may be blown. Fuses are located near the transformer and on the underside of the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check voltages on the fuses near the transformer to make sure they are as expected.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the power supply voltages and make sure that they are as expected. 5v may need to be adjusted to 5.03v to ensure that the MPU recieves the necessary power it needs in order to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be sure to [[#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness|install the two jumper wires in the interconnect harness]] between the driver board and MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These steps may help address a number of common issues before proceeding to some of the more specific problems that can occur with system 80 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Connectors, Connectors, Connectors===&lt;br /&gt;
Connectors, connectors, connectors!!!  Since the Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B boardset primarily relies on Molex connectors to pass data and voltages from board to board, the connectors should be addressed first.  Before even attempting to turn a Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B game on for the first time, worn or corroded edge connector contacts must be replaced.  Cleaning or burnishing connector contacts is not a viable option to ensure a game&#039;s reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Poor connector contacts are the number one reason why System 80/80A/80B games do not function properly.  Poor or missing connector contacts have a cascading effect too.  The end results of bad connector contacts can be, but are not limited to:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*voltages which mysteriously disappear and reappear&lt;br /&gt;
*increased resistance &lt;br /&gt;
*specific switches not functioning&lt;br /&gt;
*lamps locking on&lt;br /&gt;
*lamps not turning on&lt;br /&gt;
*displays not properly functioning&lt;br /&gt;
*coils not turning on&lt;br /&gt;
*coils locking on&lt;br /&gt;
*CPU boards not booting, booting sporadically, or randomly resetting&lt;br /&gt;
*driver boards not functioning or functioning sporadically&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, it is very important that the connector contacts are shiny, have proper spring tension, and are properly crimped for the over all reliability of the game.  Random, flaky issues which happen either sporadically or all the time are attributed to poor connector contacts in nearly every case.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=450px heights=100px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 Connector (J6), The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80ConnectorBadPins.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;An example of pins in desperate need of rehab.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80ConnectorGoodPins.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ahhh...Much nicer after repinning.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SandedGottliebEdgeConnector.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Sanded (or possibly bare from the factory) card edge contacts will corrode and degrade the electrical connection.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File: GottliebEdgeConnectorRehab.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The two connector pads on the left have been lightly scratched with the fiberglass pencil. Even the small bit of oxidation or corrosion shown on the remaining pins is enough to prevent a connection.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A common (poor) practice is to sand the card edge contacts to the bare copper as shown at left. While this may alleviate issues in the short term, longer term the copper will oxidize and cause more problems. All copper oxidizes. Copper is beautiful on building rooftops when first installed but oxidizes to a light green patina over time. Card edge contacts will do the same thing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the card edge contacts aren&#039;t bright and shiny, they can be cleaned off with a pink rubber eraser or lightly scratched with a fiberglass pencil. This will remove oxidation and grime without harming or thinning the finger contacts. If the contacts are corroded (due to battery damage) or have divots in them, lightly sand them, then re-tin them with a thin coat of solder. Either suck the excess solder off with a solder sucker or when heated, wipe the solder off with a rag. Avoid heating the card edge contacts too much as they will detach from the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing (Repinning) System 80 Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
Replacing connectors in a pinball machine somehow adopted the term repinning. Repinning a System 80 connector housing isn&#039;t too bad overall.  On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 (1 being the easiest to do) compared to all other makes and platforms made, System 80 connector replacement is about a 3.  One benefit regarding the System 80 IDC housings is that they are reusable.  Below are the steps to remove the connector from its housing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*First, grasp the housing in one hand.  Use a small &amp;quot;pocket&amp;quot; flat blade screwdriver. add pic later---&amp;gt; (http://www.absorbentprinting.com/tools-and-knives/screwdrivers/pocket-screwdrivers/level-rite-regular-blade-options).&lt;br /&gt;
*Next, push the connector&#039;s ear down, so the connector can be released.&lt;br /&gt;
*Finally, pull gently but firmly on the wire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes the connector comes out, and sometimes the wire pops out of the connector.  If the latter, use a small jeweler&#039;s screwdriver to gently pry the very end of the connector against the rectangular opening in the connector housing.  You&#039;re trying to get the IDC &amp;quot;ears&amp;quot; of the connector to clear the housing.  Sometimes the connector will easily come right out.  If it doesn&#039;t, use some small needle nose pliers, and grab the &amp;quot;ear&amp;quot; of the connector, and pull it out.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Molex11-03-0016.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Molex Contact Extraction Tool, Molex part number 11-03-0016]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Some system 80 connector housings are &amp;quot;double sided&amp;quot; edge connectors. All of the connector housings that are double sided are black from the factory (blue colored housings are typically Jamma connectors used as replacements, and do not apply to this section of this guide).  To remove pins from these connector housings, you need a pricey yet effective tool called a Molex contact extraction tool, (commonly referred to as a Molex extractor). The Molex part number for the extractor is 11-03-0016, and can be purchased from [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=11-03-0016&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= Great Plains Electronics] or other electronics vendors.  Slide the extractor behind the pin to release the &amp;quot;tang&amp;quot; that holds the pin in. Firmly grip the wire and pull the pin out of the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Alternate Method of Replacing (Repinning) System 80 Connectors====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateRepin1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The repinning on a single sided connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateRepin2.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The repinning on a double sided connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80 (and most System 1) connectors do not have the slot for depressing the pin ear. Most guides (as in the previous section) recommend purchasing a somewhat pricey tool to insert into the connector and depress the ear. This procedure is tedious and takes a bit of practice. If you have a decently equipped shop which includes a drill press, repinning these connectors using the following steps might be easier for you. Using this procedure, you can expect to replace each pin in less then a minute. I repinned an entire A1-J4 / A3-J1 harness in about 40 mins.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The procedure is to drill out the depression ear and pull out the pin:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Install a 1/16&amp;quot; bit in your drill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Set up a jig by clamping a straight edge to your drill press table. Set the jig so the hole will be 1/4&amp;quot; from the edge of the connector.&lt;br /&gt;
* Drill through the plastic housing on the back/bottom side.&lt;br /&gt;
* When you feel resistance from the metal pin, gently continue to drill until you feel and hear it destroy the pin ear.&lt;br /&gt;
* Repeat for the remaining pins.&lt;br /&gt;
* Gently pull wire by hand and it will come out very easily. Pliers shouldn&#039;t be required.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The newly installed pins ears will correctly lock in place regardless of the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The CPU / Driver Board Interconnect Harness===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 harn2.JPG|200px|thumb|left|The A1-J4 / A3-J1 Interconnect Harness]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 harn1.JPG|200px|thumb|right|The A1-J4 / A3-J1 Interconnect Harness]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
There are 33 discrete signals which pass from the CPU board to the driver board via this connection.  Two of the connectors pass ground and +5v logic to the driver board [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness (two more can be added)].  The remaining signals are for lamp, solenoid, relay and sound control.  It is &#039;&#039;&#039;extremely important&#039;&#039;&#039; to have solid connectors installed in the CPU / driver board interconnect harness.  Without decent connections, lamps, coils, relays, and sound can either lock on or not turn on at all.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Adding Ground and 5V Connections to Interconnect Harness====&lt;br /&gt;
Yet one more power/ground update to make is to &amp;quot;double up&amp;quot; the 5VDC and ground connections between the MPU and the driver board. The OEM harness contains only one connection between the MPU and driver board for 5VDC and one connection for logic ground. This is an easy upgrade since spare connection positions are available in the connectors that lead to the correct edge contacts on each board.  Approximately 8 inches of wire and four bifurcated crimp on pins (bifurcated style, Molex 4366 series, Product Family KK, product ID: 08-03-0304 at [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=4366&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= Great Plains Electronics]) are needed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Crimp a pin to each end of each wire. The connectors at each end should face opposite directions. Doing this will avoid twisting the wire as you insert the pins into the connector housing. In the picture below, the red wire carries 5VDC, blue wire carries logic ground. These colors were chosen for illustrative purposes only. Any color wire will do, of course.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=170px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;MPU-to-Driver Board Harness Upgrade&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessUpgradeWires.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pins crimped to extra wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessSlots.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Spare pin positions in harness.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80HarnessUpgraded.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5VDC and ground upgraded.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Ground updates===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80/80A/80B Boards ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the Gottlieb® System 80 board set was designed, for whatever reason, the designers did not physically attach each board to a common ground plane via a conductive back panel, standoffs and screws as Bally and Williams did. Instead, Gottlieb® relied on connectors and wires between each board to create a common ground. A poor connection due to dirty/damaged/fatigued connector pins will sever the ground between system components resulting in all sorts of odd behavior.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To address this problem, it is important to examine each connector to ensure each pin is clean, and making solid contact with the card edge conductor. The ultimate (and recommended) insurance is to add an additional wire from each board&#039;s ground to a common ground point. Historically, the recommended location to join separate board grounds is at the power supply. That ground is then connected to the ground strip or transformer assembly in the cabinet bottom.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System80 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=4 caption=&amp;quot;Recommended Board Ground Wire Locations&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_Sys80_PSU_Ground.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80/80A Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80bPowerSupplyGroundMod.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B 5V Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:System80BAuxiliaryPowerSupplyCardEdge.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Auxiliary Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80a cpu brd grd.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;MPU Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80ab drvr brd grd.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Driver Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80 sound added ground.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80 Sound Only Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sound Speech ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound and Speech Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Sound Speech power sup ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound and Speech Power Supply&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb piggyback sound ground add.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80A/80B Sound Only Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GottliebSoundBoardGroundMod.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Sound Board (edge connector)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:S80SoundBoardHeaderGrounds.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;System 80B Sound Board (header connector)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Aux Board Ground Upgrade.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Chaser Lamp Board&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another design decision was to provide separate ground wires for groups of lamps and coils on the driver board. There are several variations used to tie the driver board lamp and solenoid discrete ground wires to the ground plane.  The most common method Gottlieb® used was passing the ground wires through a large, inline Molex connector. If a group of lamps and/or coils are not working, there is a significant probability that a ground is missing.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80GroundsTiedTogether.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Tying all board ground together at a single point, on a System 80 or 80A game.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80B_BoardGrounds_Added.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Using the +5V power supply heatsink as a tie point for the added grounds.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once all of the board grounds have been installed, tie them all together to a single point, as shown at left on a Gottlieb System 80 or 80A game. Here, one of the screws on the power supply is a handy attach point. Note that the coating on the cold plate at that screw point should be sanded bare, as discussed in step 9 of this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Updates_and_Repairs_for_the_System_80.2F80A_Power_Supply_Board procedure].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For 80B games, use the +5V power supply heatsink as a tie point.  Then, run a lead from the heatsink to the lower right bolt in the backbox.  This bolt will have the factory ground straps secured to it.  Make certain to sand or use a Dremel to remove the anodized coating from the heatsink where the grounds will be connected.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80GroundTiedToCabinetGround.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Connecting all the grounds to cabinet ground (green/yellow wire).]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the grounds all tied together at the power supply, tie that ground to the ground strip in the cabinet bottom. In the picture at left, the wire joined to all other grounds at the power supply is tied to a cabinet ground point (in this case the speaker housing). Cabinet ground points generally have a green wire with yellow tracer attached.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80GroundStrap.jpg|left|thumb|200px|System 80 Cabinet Bottom Ground Strip]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The bottom board ground strap is where all grounds should come together for System 80 games.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Grounds Improvements for System 80A at Transformer Panel=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 80A Grounds Cabinet Bottom Ground Strip]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Grounds Alien Star After.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Alien Star)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® did secure the grounds correctly on one particular game.  As seen in the adjacent pic, the grounds on Alien Star were attached discretely on the transformer panel.  These ground lines did not pass through a Molex connector like games before or games after.  Why Gottlieb® did not continue this practice is unknown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Ground Improvements for System 80B====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80A / 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;The Games&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Bounty Hunter&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
After Alien Star, Gottlieb® either soldered wire leads directly to the male spade connector board on the transformer panel (games like Chicago Cubs), or used female spade connectors (games like The Games, Touchdown, and Ice Fever), and used square, inline 9-pin Molex connectors to connect to the wiring harness. These connections, if the pins in the connectors are in good shape, are solid and do not require upgrade or modification.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-touchdown-transformer-panel.jpg|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Touchdown)&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB Grounds Cubs.jpg|Grounds at Transformer Panel (Chicago Cubs Triple Play)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;Tag Team Pinball&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Spring Break&amp;quot;=====&lt;br /&gt;
Ground connections used on System 80B games from Rock to Spring Break are the most unreliable style of ground connections Gottlieb® ever used.  These connections consist of two (sometimes three) small boards each with two gangs of 9-pin male connections. The boards are fastened to the left side of the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis.  One problem with this is that the 9-pin female connection becomes loose, and in turn, ground connections become intermittent.  Another problem is the male pins on the boards suffer from cracked solder connections.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One common symptom of poor ground connections is multiple solenoids not functioning.  If removing the 9-pin Molex plug from the ground board, rotating it 90 degrees, and reconnecting it causes non-working solenoids to function, the ground connections are bad. Whether or not this test proves that the ground connections are bad, it is highly recommended to improve the ground connections for future reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purpose of these changes is to remove one potentially failed connection out of the equation.  The grounds will then be secured directly to the transformer chassis via solderless eyelet crimp connectors.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System3 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].  Below are the steps to properly upgrade the grounds.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Gottlieb® System 80B Ground Upgrades (Tag Team Pinball to Spring Break)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb_sys80b_trans_ground_01.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The stock ground connections plugged into the ground connection boards on the left side of the transformer panel.  This pic is a view from the left side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 02.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Remove all connections from the transformer panel.  Then, unscrew the four 5/16&amp;quot; hex head screws which secure the transformer panel from the bottom of the cabinet.  Turn the transformer panel on its side.  This will allow better access to secure the ring terminals to the side of the chassis.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 03.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut all of the ground wires as close as possible to the 9-pin connection.  Remove the two boards with the 9-pin male wafer connections.  As can be seen in the pic, Gottlieb® did actually secure the discrete transformer panel grounds to the panel&#039;s chassis with a single, soldered eyelet connector.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 04.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All the ground wires are to have their insulation stripped back longer than usual - approximately 3/4&amp;quot;.  Solderless ring terminals are crimped onto the ground wires.  The connections used in this particular application are Motormite #85443.  Motormite brand does not have to be used.  This particular brand and part number are mentioned due to the difficulty in finding the correct connectors to use. Most common ring terminals have a #10 or larger screw eyelet, which will not work effectively, if the eyelets are fastened to the side of the transformer panel chassis.  The ring terminals shown here are made for #12-#10 gauge wire with an eyelet for a #8 screw.  &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 02.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The ground Molex plugs and connection boards which were formerly fastened to the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis. The four ground connector plugs (some games only use three total) were cut off from the incoming ground wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground 06.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Keep wires which were common to one connector together (driver board ground wires, playfield ground wires, and backbox ground wires).  In doing this, future disassembly will be possible, should any of the individual wiring harnesses need attention or the playfield removed from the game.  The ground wires are then twisted together and crimped.  From experience, a maximum of 4 larger gauge wires can be crimped in one connection.  Lighter gauge wires can be paired with or without heavier gauge wires.  When doing this, the maximum effective grouping of wires increases slightly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 01.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The screws which were removed from the ground bus board should be reused to secure the eyelets to the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80B Ground Transformer 03.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The transformer is fastened to the bottom of the cabinet with the ground upgrades in place.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80b trans ground last.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pay close attention when securing the transformer panel to the cabinet.  All four mounting screws typically have flat ground straps with an eyelet.  These eyelet connections *must* be secured to the transformer panel.  Otherwise, the earth grounds will not all be tied together anymore.  Two of these ground connections are circled in the pic.  There are two more located on the backside of the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although somewhat equally difficult to locate, an alternate to the Motormite # 85443 connectors are Tyco / AMP 408-2049-4 connectors. Again, any brand can be used, but make certain the eyelet hole is for a #8 screw (not a #10 or larger), and the crimp connector can accommodate #10 / #12 gauge wires (typically yellow insulation on crimp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Ground Improvements for System 80B at the Transformer Panel - &amp;quot;Arena&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Bone Busters&amp;quot; =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ground connections used on System 80B games from Arena to Bone Busters are the not as bad as the previous design, however, they are still unreliable at times.  These connections consist of two small boards with three 10-pin .156&amp;quot; inline male header connections. The boards are fastened to the left side (or back side on newer games like Hot Shots) of the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis.  One problem with this is that the header pins get cracked solder joints, and in turn, ground connections become intermittent. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One common symptom of poor ground connections is multiple solenoids not functioning.  If removing the 10-pin Molex plug from the ground board, and reconnecting it at a different header causes non-working solenoids to function, the ground connections are bad. Whether or not this test proves that the ground connections are bad, it is highly recommended to improve the ground connections for future reliability.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purpose of these changes is to remove one potentially failed connection out of the equation.  The grounds will then be secured directly to the transformer chassis via solderless eyelet crimp connectors.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the previous section, these ground upgrades were initially recommended and published on the Internet by [http://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System3 John Robertson of John&#039;s Jukes].  Below are the steps to properly upgrade the grounds.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Gottlieb® System 80B Ground Upgrades (Arena to Bone Busters)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 01.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The stock ground connections plugged into the ground connection boards on the left side of the transformer panel.  This pic is a view from the left side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 02.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Remove all connections from the transformer panel.  Then, unscrew the four 5/16&amp;quot; hex head screws which secure the transformer panel from the bottom of the cabinet.  Turn the transformer panel on its side.  This will allow better access to secure the ring terminals to the side of the chassis.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 03.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut all of the ground wires as close as possible to the 10-pin housing.  Remove the two boards with the three .156&amp;quot; 10-pin male header connections.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 04.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All of the ground wires are to have their insulation stripped back longer than usual - approximately 3/4&amp;quot;.  Solderless ring terminals are crimped onto the ground wires.  The connections used in this particular application are Motormite #85443.  Motormite brand does not have to be used.  This particular brand and part number are mentioned due to the difficulty in finding the correct connectors to use. Most common ring terminals have a #10 or larger screw eyelet, which will not work effectively, if the eyelets are fastened to the side of the transformer panel chassis.  The ring terminals shown here are made for #12-#10 gauge wire with an eyelet for a #8 screw.  &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 05.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The ground Molex plugs and connection boards which were formerly fastened to the transformer panel&#039;s metal chassis. The five ground connector plugs were cut off from the incoming ground wires.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 06.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Keep wires which were common to one connector together (driver board ground wires, playfield ground wires, and backbox ground wires).  In doing this, future disassembly will be possible, should any of the individual wiring harnesses need attention or the playfield removed from the game.  The ground wires are then twisted together and crimped.  From experience, a maximum of 4 larger gauge wires can be crimped in one connection.  Lighter gauge wires can be paired with or without heavier gauge wires.  When doing this, the maximum effective grouping of wires increases slightly.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 07.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The screws which were removed from the ground bus board should be reused to secure the eyelets to the transformer panel.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 08.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The transformer is fastened to the bottom of the cabinet with the ground upgrades in place.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB 80B Victory Grounds 09.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pay close attention when securing the transformer panel to the cabinet.  The four mounting screws may have flat ground straps with an eyelet.  These eyelet connections *must* be secured to the transformer panel.  Otherwise, the earth grounds will not all be tied together anymore.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although somewhat equally difficult to locate, an alternate to the Motormite # 85443 connectors are Tyco / AMP 408-2049-4 connectors. Again, any brand can be used, but make certain the eyelet hole is for a #8 screw (not a #10 or larger), and the crimp connector can accommodate #10 / #12 gauge wires (typically yellow insulation on crimp).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing the Orange Filtering Capacitor====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AgedOrangeCap.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn out original 6800uf/25V Gottlieb® filter capacitor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If your System 80 or early System 80A game still has the original, orange 12VDC filtering capacitor in the cabinet bottom, it should be replaced. It&#039;s 30+ years old, has served the game well for a long time, and deserves a rest. Replace it with a new capacitor, valued from 6800uf to 12,000uf and at least 25V. Don&#039;t forget to acquire the right sized bracket to secure the cap to the bottom board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A very nice replacement for this capacitor, specified at 12,000uf, can be found [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-67.asp here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This capacitor filters the rectified 12VDC which is supplied to the power supply board for regulation down to 5VDC which is used by the every board in the game, including the MPU. Solid 5VDC power is critical for the game to operate properly. Hence the need for a properly working cap.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Sporadic / Inconsistent / Missing Voltages====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 PS Cold Joints.jpg|200px|thumb|left|This header pin was removed from the board by wiggling it loose!]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One problem with the System 80 power supply sporadic, inconsistent, or missing voltages.  The game may be fine one minute, while the next minute, it loses voltage(s) completely.  One of the main culprits for this is cracked header joints.  Between vibration and the heat dissipated by the heat sink, header joints have a fairly high failure rate on System 80 power supplies.  The fix is to disassemble the power supply (as seen in the next section), and replace the stock round header pins with square headers. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Updates and Repairs for the System 80/80A Power Supply Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80PSBurnedCR7.jpg|200px|thumb|right|If CR7 on your Gottlieb power supply looks like this, the board should be rehabbed immediately.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Power Supply board is a pretty tough bugger. Still, after years of steady operation, they do fail, and they require refurbishment.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The test point values are silk screened on the System 80 power supply board. They are +5VDC, +8VDC, +42VDC, and +60VDC. Ground, or &amp;quot;common&amp;quot; is also labeled.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Given that the parts to refurbish the power supply are cheap and readily available, and that taking the power supply apart is a bit of a pain, a good strategy is to replace all failure prone parts, whether the parts have failed or not, to avoid disassembling the power supply more than once.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Parts you will need are:&lt;br /&gt;
#.156 male header pins without friction lock, 9-pin, 7-pin, 6-pin, or break to size.&lt;br /&gt;
#500 ohm resistor cermet trimmer potentiometer. A quality sealed one like the one pictured is advised.&lt;br /&gt;
#3 inches of 18 gauge wire&lt;br /&gt;
#680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor (470, 510, 560, or 620 works also) replacement for R10, originally a 30 ohm 2W resistor and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;must be replaced&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; if CR7 is replaced with a 1N4738 (below)&lt;br /&gt;
#1N4738 8.2V 1 watt zener diode (CR7, originally a 1N3445 8.2V 2W zener)&lt;br /&gt;
#12K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor (R3)&lt;br /&gt;
#1N4746 18V 1 watt zener diode (CR6, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#47uf, 100V axial capacitor (C2, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#LM723 voltage regulator and 14-pin socket (IC1, optional if the 5V section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#2N6057, 2N6059, or 2N6284 Darlington transistor (Q3, optional if the 5V section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#heat sink compound (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-3 mica insulator or heat sink gasket (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-3 transistor spacer (optional as required) Keystone 4616 or Mouser Electronics 534-4616&lt;br /&gt;
#2N5550 or 2N5551 transistor (Q2, optional)&lt;br /&gt;
#470uf/100V axial capacitor (C1, optional if the 42v/60v section is operational, this cap is often the cause of the 1/4A HV fuse blowing)&lt;br /&gt;
#TIP31C TO-220 NPN transistor (Q1, optional if the 42v/60v section is operational)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 mica insulator (optional as required)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 Passive Heatsink - Aavid Thermalloy 563002B00000G (only necessary if the existing heatsink is damaged or missing the PCB mounting tabs)&lt;br /&gt;
#TO-220 Nylon Bushing Insulator (only necessary if missing or damaged)&lt;br /&gt;
#Green LEDs (optional...use if you want to identify the board as having been reworked)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the 4 screws that fasten the PCB to the cold plate (heat sink).&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove the 2 screws that fasten the back mounted transistor Q3 to the PCB and cold plate.&lt;br /&gt;
#Use your favorite solder removal tool to remove the solder from the legs of Q3 that extend through the PCB. This is the toughest part of the job. If the board had been really hacked, you may need two irons and a friend to accomplish this.&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the cold plate and Q3 have been removed, set those parts to the side.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace parts on the PCB as recommended and advised by the particular failure.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the PCB, solder a 3&amp;quot; wire from the ground trace to the screw mount, as shown in the picture below.&lt;br /&gt;
#When replacing the original round header pins with new square header pins, the through holes may require slight enlargement using a pick as shown in the picture below. Alternatively, the holes can be drilled with a small bit from the solder side of the board. Pressing the pins into the through holes without enlarging them might cause the solder pad to pop off the board. Key pins must be removed prior to installation as the PCB has no holes at the key pin position.&lt;br /&gt;
#Recheck all of your work.&lt;br /&gt;
#Sand the black insulating coating from the top/right screw hole on the front of the cold plate, as shown in the picture below. The insulating coating is very tough. A drum sander attachment on a Dremel works very well for this.  To ensure you&#039;ve sanded enough, use your meter to &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; between screw holes. You will use this screw hole later to tie the ground from each PCB together.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install Q3 (note that it will only install one way) onto the cold plate using the transistor spacer, mica insulator, and heat sink compound.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mate the two halves of the power supply together and reinstall the two screws which secure Q3.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder the leads of Q3 to it&#039;s through-holes.&lt;br /&gt;
#To ensure continuity at each leg&#039;s solder joint, &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection between the left leg of Q3 and the top leg of R9.&lt;br /&gt;
#Also &amp;quot;buzz&amp;quot; the connection between the right leg of Q3 and the bottom leg of R11.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the remaining 4 screws around the perimeter of the power supply board. &lt;br /&gt;
#Lastly, ensure there is NO continuity between Q3 and the cold plate, as shown in the picture below. This is an essential step to ensure proper operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=170px heights=100px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;System 80/80A Power Supply Repair&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Parts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Required&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsRemoved.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front Side, Parts Removed and Board Cleaned Up&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsRemovedBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Back Side, Parts Removed&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:EnlargingHoles.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Enlarging Header Pin Holes&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsReplaced.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Replaced, Front Side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PartsReplacedBack.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Parts Replaced and Ground Updated, Back Side&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:R10ThermalStrainRelief.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Strain Relief for R10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Sys80PSAllDone.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;All Done&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Transistor-to-ColdPlateContinuityTest.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ensuring no continuity between Q3 and the cold plate&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once fully assembled, reinstall the power supply into your game. Connect ONLY J1 (the lower 9-pin connector) at this time. Power your game on, looking for the two LEDs to light. If they do not light, you have rework to perform. Assuming that they do light, test each of the voltages that the power supply creates to ensure the correct power is being generated/regulated. Since the power is not &amp;quot;under load&amp;quot;, each of the voltages may read 10% or so high. While measuring the 5V test point, adjust the 5V trim pot to about 5.1VDC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it! You&#039;re done.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Note: once you connect the other boards to the power supply, the 5V may sag some. Measure the 5V across the electrolytic cap just to the right of the MPU power connector. Using the 5V trim pot, adjust the 5V power to between 5.0 and 5.1VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Recommended Repairs for the System 80B Power Supply Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80b psu.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 80B +5 VDC Power Supply. The adjustment POT is at the top of the PCB.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Step one to improving power supply reliability is to replace the original 500 ohm 1 watt adjustment pot.  This procedure can be done easily without removing the large heat sink.  A replacement sealed pot is recommended, but not completely necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, remove all the old solder from the all of the .156&amp;quot; header pins, and reflow new solder onto the joints. The top header pins (J2) supply +5VDC to the majority of the associated circuit boards in the back box.  Provided that the power supply is delivering acceptable voltages in the +5VDC range, these two relatively simple repairs are the only things needed for this board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
However, if you&#039;ve adjusted the pot as much as possible in the appropriate direction, and the power supply is still delivering voltages higher or lower than around +5VDC, it&#039;s probably time to look at replacing the LM338K voltage regulator.  While not a frequent occurrence, the voltage regulator will sometimes fail. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the voltages measured are less than 1VDC, the grounds for the power supply (located at the transformer panel) will more than likely need attention.  Once the grounds at the transformer panel are better secured, recheck the voltage at the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note: When measuring the +5VDC provided by the power supply, first disconnect J2 on the power supply. Measure power at the J2 male headers first. Once within an acceptable range, turn power off and reconnect J2. Measure power across C1, the 100uf/10V capacitor that is next to J1 (power connector) on the MPU. The MPU may drag the +5VDC supply down a bit. If you find this to be the case, adjust the trim pot on the power supply until a steady +5VDC is seen at the MPU. Poor connections between the +5VDC power supply and the MPU board may also reduce the voltage measured at the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Optional Bling...Adding Power Indicating LED&#039;s to Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
=====CPU Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
How to add a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator for the Gottlieb System 80 Generation 1 CPU board (the D102 board). This will light up when + 5 volts are present on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes spaced about 3mm apart in the spot indicated just below power connector J1. This area has no traces to interfere with drilling.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install LED into board with flat side facing toward the power connector J1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the flat side&#039;s lead to the negative (ground) point shown in the picture and solder it.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will connect to one side of the 330 ohm resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the positive trace shown in the picture. You&#039;re done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is powered on, this LED will indicate that the CPU board is receiving +5 volts from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDholesfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDholesrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drilled on rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Circled areas are where to drill the two holes for the LED. Any color of LED can be used, but red or green are preferred.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80CPULEDwiring.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring on solder side of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80CPULEDfront.JPG|200px|thumb|right|LED installed on board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED. Note the location of the flat side of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80CPULEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation of LED]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed installation with LED lit up indicating the +5 volts is present on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator to the System 80 Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohm quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; holes spaced about 3mm apart in the board at the location shown in the pictures to the left of the electrolytic capacitor near chip Z1. There should be no traces at that area.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install the red LED with the flat side facing the trace going to the negative side of the electrolytic capacitor. Bend the LED&#039;s flat side lead down to that trace and scrape away some of the green paint at the point you will be soldering it. Now solder that lead to the trace.&lt;br /&gt;
#Solder one end of the 330 ohm resistor to the other lead of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will now get soldered to the trace that goes to the positive side of the electrolytic capacitor. Again, be sure to scrape some of the green paint off of the trace where the resistor lead will be soldered. You are done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is on, the LED will be lit indicating that the driver board is receiving +5 volts from the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LED_holesfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDholesrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes on the rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Views of the holes drilled for the LED looking from the front and rear of the System 80 driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80LEDrear.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring of the LED and resistor]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80LEDflat.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Finished installation]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED. Notice the location of the flat side of the LED. Any color of LED can be used, but red or green is prefered.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80LEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation with LED lit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed installation showing the LED lit up indicating +5v power is present on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=====Pop Bumper Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
How to add a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; indicator for the Gottlieb System 80 Pop Bumper Driver Board. This will light up when + 5 volts are present on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red LED, Jameco # 2125309 or Radio Shack # 276-209 or 1 Green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, quarter watt, Radio Shack # 271-1315&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#From the solder side, mark and drill four 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes spaced as shown in the spot indicated. &lt;br /&gt;
#Install LED into board with flat side facing toward the power connector J1.&lt;br /&gt;
#Bend the flat side&#039;s lead to the negative (ground) point shown in the picture and solder it.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will connect to one side of the 330 ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the positive trace shown in the picture.&lt;br /&gt;
#You&#039;re done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now whenever the machine is powered on, this LED will indicate that the CPU board is receiving +5 volts from the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-supplies.jpg|Supplies needed.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-1.jpg|Mark holes on solder side as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-2.jpg|Drill holes.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-3.jpg|Stuff parts shown. Note the polarity of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-4.jpg|Bend component legs as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
File:gtb-sys80-pop-bumper-mod-led-5.jpg|Solder all 3 connections as shown.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat for each Pop Bumper Driver Board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
Adding a &amp;quot;+5 volt&amp;quot; LED indicator for the MA-234 auxiliary lamp driver board used in Black Hole and Haunted House.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Red or green LED, Jameco Electronics # 2125296 (9 cents each) or Radio Shack # 276-022 ($1.69 for a 2 pack)&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohms, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes about 3mm apart in the locations indicated in the pictures.&lt;br /&gt;
#Mount LED with the flat side toward the edge of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
#The lead from the LED&#039;s flat side will be soldered to pin 2 (ground) of connector A11P1. Be sure to slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over this lead so it does not accidently short to the other connector pins.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of the 330 ohm resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 4 (+5 volts) of connector A11P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Whenever the machine is on, the LED should be lit, indicating the auxiliary lamp driver board is receiving power. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDfrontholes.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes on front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDrearholes.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes on rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
View of the holes drilled for the LED as viewed from the front and rear of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:ALDLEDfront.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED installed on board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ALDLEDrear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Resistor and LED wiring]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistor and LED on the rear of the board. Notice the location of the flat side of the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:ALDLEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED is lit up]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Finished installation with LED lit up indicating presence of +5 volts power on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Sound/Speech Power Supply Board LED&#039;s=====&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound/Speech power supply board will get a total of four LED&#039;s! These are to indicate the presence of -12 volts, +12 volts, and +30 volts going out to the actual sound/speech board and also to indicate +24 volts coming in to the power supply board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*4 Red or green LED&#039;s&lt;br /&gt;
*2 Resistors, 1 k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 2.2k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 3.0 k, 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a total of eight 1/16&amp;quot; holes at the points shown in the pictures near connector A7P1. Lead spacing per LED is about 3mm. Be sure the LED&#039;s are not too close to each other to interfere with sitting flat against the board. The +12 and +30 volt LED&#039;s will mount with the flat side facing diagonally (7 o&#039;clock) toward the lower left board mounting hole.&lt;br /&gt;
#The -12 volt LED will have the lead of the round side (anode) soldered to the heavy ground trace of the board. You&#039;ll need to scrape some of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of this LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to the junction point of resistor R2 and the anode of zener diode CR2.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +24 volt LED will have the lead from the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the heavy ground trace on the board. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 2.2k resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 6 (+24 volts). Again, you&#039;ll need to scrape some of the green paint from the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +12 volt LED will have the lead from the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the heavy ground trace. You will need to scrape some of the green paint off the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 1 (+12 volts). You will need to scrape some of the green paint off of the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +30 volt LED will have the lead of the flat side (cathode) soldered to the heavy ground trace. You will need to scrape off some of the green paint from the trace first. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 3 k resistor. The other end of this resistor will be soldered to the trace going to connector A7P1 pin 2 (+30 volts). You will need to scrape some of the green paint from the trace first.&lt;br /&gt;
#These LED&#039;s above are all optional. The board never originally came with anything to indicate presence of voltages. If you only want to install one, that&#039;s fine. I chose to install all four so I can see at a glance that all four voltages are present. You don&#039;t have to install all four if you don&#039;t want to.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture of the finished front of the board the LED&#039;s from top to bottom are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*-12v&lt;br /&gt;
*+24v&lt;br /&gt;
*+12v&lt;br /&gt;
*+30v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture of the wiring on the back (foil) side of the board, the resistors top to bottom are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1K&lt;br /&gt;
*2.2K&lt;br /&gt;
*1K&lt;br /&gt;
*3K &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDfrontholes.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Drilled holes for the LED&#039;s on the front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDrearholes.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Drilled holes for the LED&#039;s on the rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Views of the drilled holes for the LED&#039;s looking from the front and rear of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLEDlower.JPG|200px|thumb|left|+12 and +30 LED&#039;s installed on front]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDupper.JPG|200px|thumb|right|-12 and +24 LED&#039;s installed on front]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All four LED&#039;s installed on the front of the board. Notice the location of the flat sides of all the LED&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLED_wiring.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Wiring of the resistors on the rear of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SSPSLEDfinished.JPG|200px|thumb|right|All four LED&#039;s installed on front of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring of the resistors and LED&#039;s on the rear of the board. All four LED&#039;s installed on front of board.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:SSPSLEDlitup.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished and all LED&#039;s lit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All four LED&#039;s installed and lit up indicating the presence of the four different voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====System 80/80A Power Supply Board LED=====&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 and System 80A power supply board already has LED&#039;s installed to indicate the +5 volts and +12 volts. This project will add an LED to indicate the presence of the +60 volts which is used to operate the score displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Materials needed:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*1 LED, any color&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 10k, 2 watts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill a total of four 1/16&amp;quot; diameter holes at the points indicated between the foil traces in the pictures. Try to keep the holes in a straight line.The LED installs in the top two holes and with the flat (cathode) side facing downward toward the bottom end of the board. The resistor will install in the other remaining two holes which are the also the farthest spaced. Be sure to scrape the paint off of the foil traces at the points shown in the pictures.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_holes_front.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled viewed from front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_holes_rear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drilled as viewed from rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Wiring it all up:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The flat (cathode) side of the LED will be soldered to the top end of the 10k 2 watt resistor. Be sure to keep all component leads pressed down as close to the foil traces as possible to prevent shorting to the metal frame when the board is re-assembled to the metal frame. There is very little clearance between the board and the metal frame when everything is re-assembled. The lower end of the resistor will be soldered to the foil trace that goes to connector J3, pins 4 and 5 (ground). The round (anode) side of the LED will be soldered to the foil trace that goes to connector J3 pin 1 (the +60 volts). Put a short piece of heat shrink tubing or sleeving over that lead to prevent it from shorting to the trace it crosses over. Now carefully bend that lead of the LED down onto the correct foil trace as shown in the pictures and solder it. Be sure to label the new LED on the parts side of the board as &amp;quot;+60V&amp;quot;. This completes the wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_parts.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Resistor and LED mounted on board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_soldered.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Parts soldered to foil traces]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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The new LED should be lit at all times the machine is turned on. It indicates that +60 volts DC is present to operate the score displays. The other display voltage, +42 volts, is derived from the +60 volts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SYS80PS_finished.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Finished installation with +60v marking]]&lt;br /&gt;
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=====System 80 First Generation &amp;quot;Sounds Only&amp;quot; Sound Board LED&#039;s=====&lt;br /&gt;
This board was used in early System 80 games such as Panthera. It operates on three power sources, -12 volts, +12 volts, and +5 volts. The +12 volts is obtained from the bottom panel in the machine. The +5 volts is obtained from the game&#039;s power supply board. The -12 volts is generated on this sounds only board by receiving ac power input on J1 pins 3 and 4. You can measure the -12 volts by connecting your volt meter across zener diode CR5 (1N4742A).&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;MATERIALS NEEDED&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*2 LED&#039;s, any color&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 1k @ 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Resistor, 330 ohm @ 1/4 watt&lt;br /&gt;
*1 Short piece of small diameter heat shrink tubing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Drill two pairs of holes 1/16&amp;quot; diameter and about 3mm apart at the locations as shown in the pictures. Be sure not to drill through any foil traces.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +12 volt LED will have the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the ground trace coming from pin 6 of connector J1. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of green paint off of the trace first in order to solder it. The other lead of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 1k @ 1/4 watt resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 1 of connector J1 (the +12 volt source). Be sure to slide a short piece of heat shrink tubing over this end of the resistor before soldering since this lead will pass over a couple of traces. This will prevent the resistor lead from shorting to those traces and causing damage.&lt;br /&gt;
#The +5 volt LED will have the flat side (cathode) of the LED soldered to the ground trace coming from pin 6 of connector J1. You&#039;ll need to scrape a bit of the green paint off of the trace first in order to solder it. The other end of the LED will be soldered to one end of a 330 ohm @ 1/4 watt resistor. The other end of the resistor will be soldered to pin 5 of connector J1 (the +5 volt source).&lt;br /&gt;
#When finished, be sure to note that the flat sides of both LED&#039;s will be facing each other on the front side of the board. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_holes_front.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Holes drilled in front of board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_holes_rear.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Holes drill in rear of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80so_LEDS.JPG|200px|thumb|left|LED&#039;s installed on board with flat sides facing each other]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80so_resistors.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Wiring on solder side of board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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====F2 Fuse Blows At Power Up on 80A games====&lt;br /&gt;
If the F2 fuse blows at power up, there is one overlooked problem that is good to check. This could also apply to 80B games, but a different fuse may blow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the transformer panel, there is a pair of cement resistors are soldered to a solder tab, which is screwed down to a small square plastic post. Check to make sure that this has not been moved to another screw hole in the metal of the transformer panel. Screwing this line to the metal of the transformer panel ties one of the AC lines to ground. Since this line is shorted/tied to ground, it also has the side effect of making the bridge rectifier test bad, since there is a tab tied to ground when there shouldn&#039;t be one. It is likely that the bridge rectifier will test good as soon as the solder tab is moved to the correct place.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:sys80-f2-fuse-blows-issue-2.jpg|Correct place to screw the solder tab (on the square plastic post)&lt;br /&gt;
File:sys80-f2-fuse-blows-issue-1.jpg|Incorrect place to screw the solder tab. This causes a short.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a large and varied number of reasons that a System 80 MPU will fail to boot. Unfortunately, as has been said before, &amp;quot;this is not a Bally world&amp;quot;. That is, unlike &amp;quot;classic&amp;quot; Bally and Stern MPUs the System 80 MPU provides absolutely no indication as to why it may have failed to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Debugging a non-booting MPU is somewhat of an art. A few basic steps are listed below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure your game is providing a solid 5VDC power source&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace the orange electrolytic cap in the cabinet bottom if still original&lt;br /&gt;
#Take the board to the bench&lt;br /&gt;
#Examine the board for Alkaline damage. If present, clean up&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure the reset section of the board is working. Pin 40 of the 6502 should begin &amp;quot;low&amp;quot;, then after about 1/2 second, transition to &amp;quot;high&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the clock signals at the 6502&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the IRQ signal at the 6502. Ensure it isn&#039;t &amp;quot;stuck&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the R/W (read/write) signal at the 6502. Again, ensure it isn&#039;t stuck&lt;br /&gt;
#Check the address and data lines to ensure that they are pulsing&lt;br /&gt;
#Feel each of the masked ROM chips at U2 and U3 as well as the 6532 RIOT chips at U4, U5, and U6. If the IC is too hot to touch, it has probably failed and should be replaced. Note that the 6532 RIOTs run hot normally. If one is noticeably hotter than the other, that may be an indication of failure.&lt;br /&gt;
#Test each of the 74XX chips in the switch matrix (Z11 - Z15) using this [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit procedure].&lt;br /&gt;
#If the board has the original masked game ROM(s), replacement with the appropriately sized ROM is advised (generally a 2716).&lt;br /&gt;
#In the case of System 80B MPUs that employ a &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;, fractured solder joints where the &amp;quot;riser pins&amp;quot; meet the daughter card are often an issue. These joints can&#039;t be examined without removing the daughter card. And, removing the daughter card is not trivial. If flexing the daughter card causes the board to boot or to crash, fractured solder joints are a solid suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Power on &amp;quot;Thunk&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80 games exhibit a &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; upon power up. The manifestation of this is the unpredictable lighting of lamps, running of motors, and actuation of coils / relays.  The symptom is unpredictable in that swapping either the driver or the MPU board might change the behavior. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; can be suppressed via a process detailed [http://www.flippers.com/gott-system80.html#thunk here] by John Robertson.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Driver Reset Front.JPG|thumb|left|200px|The addition of an MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator on the driver board.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Driver Reset Back.JPG|thumb|right|200px|The addition of an MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator on the driver board w/ traces cut and jumpers run.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
As an alternative to John&#039;s approach, another method has been developed. The method employs the use of a reset generator tied to the &#039;&#039;&#039;CLR&#039;&#039;&#039; leg (pin 1) of the appropriate 74175 flip-flops (those that control devices that &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot;). The reset generator is added to the front of the driver board in the upper right hand corner. There is a &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot; in this location. Solder should be removed from the star via exposing a through hole. Next, two very small holes should be drilled into the board on either side of the via. Make certain not to drill through traces on the solder side of the board, and that neither hole touches the &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot;. Next, scrape the solder mask from the two thick traces on the solder side which pass closest to the star via. These traces terminate at capacitor C1 on the driver board.  The closest trace is ground and the other trace is +5v. Next, place a MCP130-460HI/TO reset generator through the driver board. The center leg (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) will pass through the star via, while the outer legs will go through the newly drilled holes. The flat side of the reset generator should be facing the components on the driver board.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Next, bend the GND and 5V legs of the reset generator onto the appropriate traces where the masking was scraped.  Next, the traces on Z3, Z4, and Z5 should be cut between pin 1 and pin 16. This is the wide trace at the very top of the chip. Additionally, there is a thick trace to the right of pin 1 on Z4 which must be severed. After cutting this trace, pin 16 and the isolated trace must be tied together with a jumper.  This connects 5VDC to pin 16 of Z4. Now that pin 1 is isolated from 5VDC on chips Z3, Z4, and Z5, trace wire must be routed from the center leg (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) of the reset generator to pin 1 of each of these chips. Once this modification is completed, the coils associated with these chips will no longer be pulsed when the game is turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the modification which John Robertson lays out, it may not be necessary to isolate pin 1 of Z3, Z4, and Z5 for every game. However, isolating these 3 chips accommodates most System 80/A/B games that use lamp transistors to pre-drive coils / relays. The game over and tilt relays will still pulse briefly upon turning the game on but that behavior is generally acceptable. Isolating pin 1 of Z1 and tying pin 1 to the reset line of the reset generator will resolve this residual behavior.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the trace wire shown in the pic on the right could have been routed more elegantly.  This was in part due to an afterthought in having Z3 tied to the reset generator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot; is really just a minor irritation, most owners do not think that the resolution is worth the effort. However, on some games, the thunk can be very annoying by pulsing the ball release coil under the lower apron. The result is a ball being served into the shooter lane, before the MPU board even boots up. Most System 80B Genesis games run the &amp;quot;Reveal Motor&amp;quot; as a result of the &amp;quot;thunk&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ResetGeneratorPinExplanation.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Part number explanation and pin configuration for various reset generators.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Other reset generators may be used as long as the pinout of the legs is observed. Shown at left is a snippet of the datasheet that explains reset generator part numbers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AlternateDethunkFront.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Using an MCP130-460DI/TO reset generator. Take care to drill the holes so that only one reset generator leg touches the star.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DethunkAlternateBack.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Jumpers are still connected to the &amp;quot;star via&amp;quot; but the new holes are drilled in different locations.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
One alternate reset generator to use is the MCP130-460DI/TO which is also used in the section that discusses System 80 MPU alkaline corrosion abatement. The installation is a bit different as is shown in the adjacent pictures. The (&#039;&#039;&#039;RESET&#039;&#039;&#039;) signal is on the left leg of the reset generator while Vdd (5VDC) is in the center and Vss (Ground) is on the right leg.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Erratic Boot Issues with Later 80B Games (Hot Shots, Bad Girls, and Big House)====&lt;br /&gt;
Some erratic boot issues have been observed with the following games: Hot Shots, Bad Girls, Big House, and Excalibur, however, the list of games may be more extensive.  The issues included are a locked on display with garbage characters shown, no display illuminating at all, sound board not booting (LED stuck on), locked on lamps, no controlled lamps, locked on coils, etc.  The source of the problem seems to stem from the fluorescent tube starter located in the backbox.  It is unknown why exactly this anomaly occurs.  Removal of the starter should resolve the booting issues.  Worst case scenario, remove the 110v panel fuse on the transformer panel use for the fluorescent light circuit.  Unfortunately, this is the only resolution known at this time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Battery Leakage and Corrosion====&lt;br /&gt;
Like most any other pinball machine manufactured, Gottlieb® uses batteries to supply power to the non-volatile RAM memory.  Certain game settings, high score thresholds (including high score to date), audit information, and bookkeeping information are all options which are saved when the game is powered off.  And unless some kind soul, who worked on your machine before, either removed the battery and mounted it remotely away from circuit boards, or just plain removed the battery, there will be some variety of a 3.6v Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) rechargeable battery soldered onto your CPU board.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, what&#039;s so bad about having a battery on the CPU board?  Well, nothing really, unless it&#039;s forgotten, and in most cases, it is.  While you let your pinball machine sit unplayed for weeks, months, or even years at a time, the battery remains perched on the circuit board like a ticking time bomb.  I&#039;m not saying the battery is going to blow up, although some replacement non-rechargeable batteries could overheat and / or explode if not correctly installed.  The battery is like a ticking time bomb, because it is a threat to the overall health of the electronic components, traces, and connectors attached to your CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now that I have your attention regarding the whole battery thing, let&#039;s talk about the battery, and what happens. . .&#039;&#039;&#039;WHEN GOOD BATTERIES GO BAD&#039;&#039;&#039;.  It&#039;s not that some batteries were born on the wrong side of the tracks or anything. Any good battery can go bad without much warning.  It takes time, but eventually you will find that your battery has crossed over to the &amp;quot;dark side&amp;quot;.  That particular time is typically when you turn your game on, the lights come on, and that&#039;s it.  The displays don&#039;t light up. The start up sounds don&#039;t resonant. And, the silver ball stays in its comfy little home.  Nada...nothing...no signs of anything resembling a fun game of pinball.  &#039;&#039;&#039;UH-OH!&#039;&#039;&#039; So what happened?  The pinball machine worked fine the last time you played it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Well, while you were out having a good time and enjoying life, the poor, aged, neglected battery decided to wreak havoc all over the reset section, clock section, or possibly more regions on your CPU board.  The CPU battery spewing its guts all over the place is akin to the batteries in the flashlight you haven&#039;t turned on since the last power outage a year or two ago.  You go to turn on the flashlight when you need it most, and find out there&#039;s something wrong.  So being the curious type, you open the flashlight&#039;s battery compartment only to find some kind of blue-green funk leaking all over, or the batteries now look like they need a shave.  The resolution to the flashlight scenario is pretty simple. Throw it away, and buy a new one. Your CPU board problem can be resolved the same way, except it will be a lot more costly, and is not recommended to just pitch it in the trash. If the battery damage to the CPU board is not overly extensive, attempt to repair it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Typical Battery Found on a System 80 CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s unfortunate, but every battery has a life expectancy.  The only silver lining is that some of the Ni-Cad batteries installed on Gottlieb® CPU boards can last longer than others.  Probably the worst culprit of board destruction is the &#039;&#039;&#039;Data Sentry&#039;&#039;&#039; pack, and its associated knock-offs.  This battery comes in a black rectangular plastic package.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80A battery.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical Battery Found on a System 80A / 80B CPU Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another battery pack style which looks very similar to the NiCad battery packs found in &amp;quot;old school&amp;quot; cordless phones.  It is actually three small NiCad cells wrapped separately in an orange poly material, which is wrapped in a outer white poly material.  These don&#039;t leak nearly as badly, but they still have the potential to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Replacement nicad.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical NiCad Battery Which was Replaced]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The final common battery style is a what looks like an AA battery on steroids.  This style is a fraction longer and fatter than an AA battery&#039;s physical form, and has two soldered leads on either end.  If you find one of these, it means the battery was previously replaced.  The good news is that this battery is newer than the original. However, the same results of battery seepage can occur.  The only benefit of this type of battery is that it can be carefully cut (in most cases) from the board without removing the board from your game.  This is a plus if no battery damage has occurred.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage03.JPG|200px|thumb|left|NiCad Battery Damage to a System 80A CPU Board&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;(Note:  This is considered very mild damage!)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A bat damage04.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Damage from the battery may also occur on the back side of the board, especially on the edge connection fingers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So what happens if you don&#039;t heed the above warnings, and the battery is allowed to remain on the board?  Plain and simple - &#039;&#039;&#039;THE BATTERY WILL LEAK!&#039;&#039;&#039;  It&#039;s only a matter of time.  Equally, the path of destruction is uncertain.  Batteries don&#039;t just leak - they release caustic, alkaline fumes.  These fumes attack wherever there is copper, even tinned or soldered copper.  The end results are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*solder joints which become green or gray and crusty as opposed to a shiny silver&lt;br /&gt;
*connectors which are also now green / gray or potentially broken&lt;br /&gt;
*solder mask, the green covering the electronic traces, on the circuit board has either flaked off or is partially delaminating (lifting)&lt;br /&gt;
*insulated wire becomes less flexible and brittle&lt;br /&gt;
*sometimes the alkaline &amp;quot;cloud&amp;quot; in the game&#039;s backbox causes every board in the head to be affected.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electronic components, related solder joints, circuit board traces, connectors, and even insulated wire will become unreliable and/or fail.  In all cases, the affected components are less conductive.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If battery damage has occurred, the related parts must now be replaced.  Attempting to remove soldered through components on the circuit board is now even more of a task.  The green / gray dull solder does not transfer heat well.  Battery damaged solder does not flow like clean solder.  Also, crimped connectors are more difficult to remove from their housings, and have a tendency to break before they can be successfully pulled out.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After all the effected electronic components are removed, the board must be treated.  This process starts by sanding the traces and solder pads until shiny copper is exposed.  It is worth mentioning that a battery damaged board can be treated by bead blasting instead of sanding, however, most people do not have access to such a machine.  After the copper areas of the board have been either sanded or bead blasted, an acidic bath of 50% vinegar and 50% (preferably distilled) water is applied to the board.  A small brush like a toothbrush can be used to scrub the board&#039;s area. The purpose of introducing an acid to the effected area is to neutralize what the battery has left behind.   The liquid and fumes from the battery are actually a base, not an acid.  Next, rinse the area of the board with water.  Once the board is clean, isopropyl alcohol (the higher the alcohol percentage the better) is applied to the same area to rinse away the acid bath, and hopefully dissipate any remaining water.  Finally, the board is either blown dry or air dried.  This may be a given, but &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT ATTEMPT TO APPLY POWER TO THE BOARD IF IT IS STILL WET!&#039;&#039;&#039;  Most liquids are conductive to some extent. After the previous steps are performed, the task of installing the new components begins.  If any traces or solder pads were damaged, see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22 Repairing Traces] portion of this Wiki guide on to to fix them.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The point I&#039;m trying to ultimately make is this...regardless of age, shape, or form, &#039;&#039;&#039;remove the battery from the CPU board&#039;&#039;&#039;, as soon as it realized that there is a battery on the board.  If not, the board can be damaged, nonfunctional, and become more difficult or even impossible to repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing that should be done to any System 80 MPU is remove the rechargeable NiCad battery from the MPU board. All batteries leak. They are like ticking bombs. It is merely a matter of when they will leak and possibly damage (sometimes irreplaceable) boards.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are at least &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;five&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; methods of relocating and/or replacing the battery on a System 80/80A/80B MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the battery completely without replacing it. The 5101 memory will not store information from power-on to power-on and therefore, high scores, replay levels, and credits will be lost.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80battery.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Remote Battery]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Mount a remote battery pack that uses standard AA batteries (x3) to protect your board.  A blocking diode must be installed (1N4004, although a 1N4001 will work just as well) to prevent the game circuitry from attempting to charge the batteries. Install the blocking diode in series with the positive lead of the battery pack, with the band oriented toward the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MemorySuperCap.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|Here a 5.5V, 1F Super Cap is used to retain 5101 memory for up to 30 days]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the battery with a 1F 5.5V &amp;quot;SuperCap&amp;quot;. The capacitor will never leak, will charge during power-on cycles, and will retain 5101 memory for about 30 days. If you&#039;ve sanded traces as was done in the picture, use a non-conductive material to cover the trace under the cap to ensure that the negative side of the cap doesn&#039;t short a trace (such as clear nail polish, green overcoat pen, electrical tape, or fishpaper). Cut the tape in a circular shape and poke the capacitor leads through it so it can&#039;t fall off in the future. (Electric tape is notorious for slipping.)  An alternate solution would be get a piece of fishpaper insulator, cut that into a circle and poke holes in it for the capacitor leads.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 H Mem Cap.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Alternate method for installing a memory cap]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 H Mem Cap Back.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Tying the negative lead of the memory cap to the negative pad on the MPU board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The memory cap can also be installed in the two leftmost holes, where the Ni-Cad battery formerly resided.  The negative lead of the memory cap will then have to be tied to the negative (ground) through hole of the MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remotely mount a replacement NiCad battery in a location that, should it leak, won&#039;t damage valuable circuit boards.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebCR2032.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|a CR2032 Lithium &amp;quot;Button Cell&amp;quot; Battery Installed]][[File:GottliebBlockingDiode.jpg‎|200px|thumb|right|A 1N4004 Blocking Diode Installed &amp;quot;inline&amp;quot; with the Positive Connection]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the original NiCad battery with a Lithium button cell CR2032 battery and holder. The holes for the original battery can be repurposed to connect the button cell holder and to add the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;necessary&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; blocking diode in the positive side of the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Using a Reset Generator for the CPU Reset Section ====&lt;br /&gt;
If you find that the battery has leaked, alkaline damage can be cleaned up, traces repaired, and new components installed with kits available from several sources, including Great Plains Electronics.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An alternative to replacing a great many of the components is to use the Dallis/Maxim DS1811 reset generator. The DS1811-10 has a typical trip point of 4.35VDC. You may also use the Microchip Technology equivalent, part number [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460DI%2FTO MCP130-460DI/TO], available from Great Plains Electronics. Remove all reset section components, clean up residual alkaline damage, add four jumpers, and install the reset generator as pictured below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After jumpers and the reset generator are added, make certain there is continuity between the three legs of the reset generator and the appropriate locations on the circuit board.  Below is a list of the reset generator legs and the board locations.  Pin 1 of the reset generator is the left leg, when the flat side of the unit is facing towards the user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 1 of reset generator to pin 2 of Z4&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 2 of reset generator to +5VDC line (lower leg of C2)&lt;br /&gt;
*Pin 3 of reset generator to ground (upper leg of C2)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Using the Dallas Maxim 1811 Reset Generator&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dallas_Maxim_Reset_scaled.JPG|A System 80 MPU with alkaline damage repaired/cleaned. Reset circuitry replaced with the much simpler Dallas Maxim 1811&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gtb sys80 reset gen jumpers updated.png|Illustrated picture of components to remove, keep, and jumpers to add.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dallas_Maxim_Reset_scaled_with_markup.JPG|The same image, but with indications of jumper locations (yellow dots) and where to install the Dallas Maxim 1811, flat side facing the bottom of the board. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: View at full resolution&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80 MCP120 Reset Gen.JPG|200px|left|thumb|MCP120 reset generator installed with 4.7K pullup resistor]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a reset generator with an internal pullup resistor (MCP130 series) is not available, an MCP120 reset generator can be installed.  However, an external resistor must be installed between the reset and +5v.  The easiest location to install the resistor is between the through hole where the top leg of Q4 was, and through hole where the bottom leg of Q2 was.  In the adjacent image, an MCP120-460DI/TO is installed with the 4.7K 1/4 watt external pullup resistor highlighted.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When installing this type of reset generator, remove all of the components, and add all of the jumpers related to the installation of an MCP130-460DI/TO reset generator.  Adding the external pullup resistor is the only additional step.  Failure to add the pullup resistor will result in the reset signal not going high, and the board will not boot.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Slam Switch Modification ====&lt;br /&gt;
In order to test the CPU board on the test bench, a modification must be made to the CPU board to make the CPU think that the slam switch is closed. If the CPU thinks that the slam switch is not closed, the CPU will not complete the boot process, instead booting into a mode where the displays flicker all zeros at a very rapid rate (System 80 and 80A). See the image [[Gottlieb_System_80#Open_Slam_Switch | here]] for a depiction of what you&#039;ll see.  When the slam switch is open on a System 80B game, (the appropriate games where the slam switch is supposed to be closed), an &amp;quot;OPEN SLAM SWITCH&amp;quot; message will be shown on the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® designed the slam switch as a normally closed switch. That is, the switch must be closed for the machine to operate normally. When a brute kicks the machine, the slam switch will open from the inertial force on the weight attached to the switch, and the slam switch will open. Since the CPU is on the bench, we need a way to have this switch closed at all times to properly test the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Additionally, slam switches themselves fail. It&#039;s a good idea to implement this change as a preemptive fix for slam switch failures.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Slammod.png|200px|thumb|left|Slam Switch Mod]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The slam switch can effectively be permanently closed by making a small solder bridge across two traces to the right of Z26 (which is on the lower right side of the CPU board). To permanently close the switch, remove the solder mask by scraping with a sharp knife or screwdriver. Create the solder bridge between the two now bare traces. This change will connect pin 13 of Z26 to ground, permanently closing the switch.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DefeatSlamSwitch.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Alternative Slam Switch Mod]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Z26RemovedSlamSwitch.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Z26 removed. One can easily see that the two methods of defeating the Slam switch are equivalent.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
An alternate method of achieving the same results is to solder a clipped resistor leg across the bottom of capacitor (C30) and resistor (R20), both immediately to the left of Z26.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that the last 4 Gottlieb® System 80B games were released with normally open slam switches.  Do not perform the slam switch modification on these games.  This includes the following games:&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Girls&lt;br /&gt;
*Big House&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Shots&lt;br /&gt;
*Bonebusters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
*Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Regardless of what platform the game is based on, there is only one slam switch used in a System 80/80A/80B game.  It is the weighted switch located on the coin door.  There is some confusion that the ball roll tilt and weighted tilt switch on the playfield are slam switches.  They are not.  These switches along with the pendulum tilt are all tilt switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== System 80B Daughter Card Solder Joints ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB sys80B CPU.JPG|260px|thumb|left|A typical System 80B CPU Board, showing the location of the &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BFracturedJointsDaughterCard.jpg|thumb|right|140px|A closeup of Gottlieb® System 80B Daughter Card Male Header Pins with fractured solder joints. This board was cleanly removed from the CPU with great care.]]&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B game CPUs feature a &amp;quot;daughter card&amp;quot; to accommodate the 2764 game ROM as shown in the picture on the left. The daughter card connects to the CPU board at the location occupied by U3 in System 80/80A CPUs, via a 24 pin male header. That connection is a two-sided solder joint that can fail. As can be seen in the picture at right, these same header pins connect to the daughter card via a single sided solder joint. Since the daughter card is cantilevered over both the former location of U2 and U3, pressing on this board over time commonly results in fractured solder joints (as seen, right) at the single sided joint and sometimes at the two-sided joint.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Typical symptoms of fractured solder joints at this location are failure to boot, random resets, and random lockups. Sometimes pressing on the daughter card will &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; the issue temporarily. This is a sure indication of fractured solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Correction of this issue is easier said than done. And, if you do not possess the tools, skills, and experience to desolder the daughter card, this task is best left to a professional pinball circuit board repairman. Desoldering the 24 pin male header pins from the delicate solder pads without damaging the pads or pulling traces is non-trivial.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:U2U3AdapterGPE.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Replacement daughter card engineered by Great Plains Electronics. &#039;&#039;Image used with permission from Great Plains Electronics.&#039;&#039;]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A recommended replacement for the daughter card is the re-engineered daughter card from Great Plains Electronics, which can be found at: http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=140-101. This card is designed to be fitted into both the U2 and U3 location, eliminating the problem of board flex and cracked solder joints. It is recommended to fit the replacement card into quality machine pin sockets, then fit the entire assembly into the CPU board for soldering. The card is also designed with redundant traces for all but a few of the signals as almost all signals are present at both the U2 and the U3 location.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Continuity Chart of Pinouts for Damaged U2 / U3 Area=====&lt;br /&gt;
It is far too easy for inexperienced &amp;quot;repairmen&amp;quot; to tear up the traces or eyelets at positions U2 and U3 when attempting to remove the daughter board from the System 80B MPU.  If the traces or through holes are damaged, clearly they must be repaired.  Nearly all of the signals which pass from U2 and U3 continue on to the 3 RIOTs at U4, U5, and U6 and also to the PROM 1 position. Below is a handy chart which can be used to ensure continuity between critical parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U2 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U3 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U4, U5 &amp;amp; U6 Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;U1&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
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|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====An Alternate to the Daughter Board on System 80B MPU Boards====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Alt D-Board.jpg|thumb|left|200px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Raven No D-Board jecourie.jpg|thumb|right|150px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Raven)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Alt D-Board_Back.jpg|thumb|left|200px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 - Back Side (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Sys80B Raven No D-Board back jecourie.jpg|thumb|right|150px|An 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 - Back Side (Raven)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB_Sys80B_Alt_D-Board_Cut_Trace.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Trace cut on an 80B MPU Board with an MCM68766 PROM installed at U3 (Genesis)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ====&lt;br /&gt;
A great place to source power for your logic probe while diagnosing the board is across the filter capacitor in the vicinity of connector J1. Connect the black lead of your logic probe to the negative lead of the capacitor for ground. Connect the red lead of your logic probe to the positive lead of the capacitor for 5V. The red lead can also connect to E1, the vertically-aligned 5V jumper wire, below the 6502 chip. Take care to ensure that the clips don&#039;t short to adjacent components.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Future Update****This section works for now, but we can generalize bench power supply construction here:&lt;br /&gt;
[[Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU board is much easier to work on if it is removed from the backbox and placed on the test bench. An AT-style PC power supply can be used to power the MPU board on the bench. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Obtain an old PC power supply. If you don&#039;t have an old computer laying around, head on off to the thrift store and pick one up. Remove the power supply from the case by unscrewing the appropriate screws. Be careful not to unscrew the power supply case itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PowerSupply.png|200px|thumb|left|Power Supply]] &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Clip one of the connectors from the power supply wire bundle and clearly mark on the power supply box the value of each of the colored wires from the power supply. Typically, the yellow wire is 12V, red is 5V, and the black is ground. Strip insulation from the end of the red wire and the black wire as the System 80 MPU requires only 5V and ground to boot. Use alligator clips to connect 5v and ground to the appropriate J1 connection. I use larger alligator clips to make the connection easier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MPUPower.png|200px|thumb|left|J1 Connector]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Mark connector J1 where the positive and negative (common) connection is for the five volts from the computer power supply. The ground connection is on the top of the connector, the 5V connection is on the bottom. The image shows A1J1 with the markings. I took the picture with the board still mounted in the machine. Connect the 5v supply with alligator clips to the positive connector on J1 and the black wire (ground) to the negative connector of J1.&lt;br /&gt;
That&#039;s it! you&#039;re good to go!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====List of Acceptable TTL Chip Substitutes on a System 80 CPU Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Several years ago, Ed from GPE replied to a System 80 chip substitution question on rec.games.pinball [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/msg/86f37cb479ece4c4 here] and later on Pinside [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-chip-replacement#post-4139713 here]. The info from those responses are summarized below.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Most of the parts can be freely substituted.  But many cannot.  The clock oscillator circuit (Z3) is one example of a part that cannot be subbed.  Also, some IC&#039;s have hefty loads and cannot be subbed (some of the 7404&#039;s and a 7432).  The 7474 in question on this board can be freely subbed with a 74LS74 or a 74HCT74.  I went through all the standard logic devices on the Gottlieb System 80 MPU.  Based on loading and output characteristics, this is what I get as valid subs for the System 80 MPU.  Of course, substituting some of the parts will ripple through and allow others to be substituted as well - but this can get quite convoluted.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip Designation&lt;br /&gt;
!Part #&lt;br /&gt;
!Substitute (Y/N)&lt;br /&gt;
!Acceptable Substitutes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z1 || 4528 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z2 || 7474 || Y || 74LS74 and 74HCT74&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z3&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(1)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || ? || Possibly 74LS04 and/or 74F04; See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z4 || 4081 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z7 || 74LS04 || Y || 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z8 || 7402 || Y || 74LS02 and 74HCT02&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z9 || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z10&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(2)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 74LS05 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z11&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z12&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z13&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z14&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7400 || Y || 74LS00 and 74HCT00&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z15 || 7432 || Y || 74F32 and 74S32&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Z16&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(5)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || N || See note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z17 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z18 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z19 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z20 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z21 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z22 || 74175 || Y ||74LS175 and 74HCT175&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z23 || 7448 || Y ||74LS48&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z24 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z25 || 74154 || Y ||74LS154 and 74HCT154&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z26 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z27 || 7404 || Y ||74LS04 and 74HCT04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z28 || 74LS139 || Y ||74HCT139&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z29 || 7416 || Y ||7406&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z30 || 7416 || Y ||7406&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z31&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(6)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; || 7408 || Y ||74LS08&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z32 || 7417 || Y ||7407&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z33 || 74154 || Y ||74LS154 and 74HCT154&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z34&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)(8)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || Y ||74LS04, see note below&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z35&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;  || 7404 || Y ||74LS04&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
||Z36 || 4069 || N ||&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(1)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z3 cannot use a 74HC04 or 74HCT04, since these have &amp;quot;high impedance inputs&amp;quot; and won&#039;t work properly in an oscillator circuit. A 74LS04 should work, and possibly 74F04, but the better candidate would be a 74LS04. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(2)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Untested, but it may be possible to use an 74LS00 or 74HCT00 at Z10 in place of 7405. However, this will defeat the ability to test the MPU using the [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=120-102 QuickScan80 tester].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(3)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z11 &amp;amp; Z12 only have to sink ~2mA, so they might be able to be replaced with 74LS04, but this might result in noisy switching.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(4)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z13 &amp;amp; Z14 are in the switch matrix. 74LS00 might a possible substitute, but substitutions can result in noisy switching, and isn&#039;t recommended here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(5)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: If Z18, 20, and 22 are 74175, do not substitute.  If Z18, 20, and 22 are 74LS175 or 74HCT175, acceptable subs are 74LS04 and 74HCT04.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(6)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Z31 can use 74LS08. 74HCT08 can be used as well, but 74HCT08 is not a good board-to-board driver, and isn&#039;t the best option here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(7)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: 74HCT04 can be used at Z34 &amp;amp; Z35 as well as 74LS04, but 74HCT04 is not a good board-to-board driver, and isn&#039;t the best option here. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;(8)&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; Note: Had issues with a 74LS04 installed at Z34 in a Haunted House. The side effects were the lower playfield VUK would fire and partially lock on when the lower playfield 5-bank drop target would reset.  Also, the 5-bank drop target would continuously tried to reset when the lower playfield VUK switch was closed. The issue acted as if there was a switch matrix issue, but there wasn&#039;t.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Replacing the quartz crystal with a TTL Oscillator====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Alkaline corrosion may damage the board in such a way that it&#039;s advantageous to replace the original quartz crystal oscillator with a TTL oscillator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_logic_sys80.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Clock section of the system 80 MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:oscillator.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The original crystal, Z3, and a few resistors may be replaced with a 900 kHz TTL Oscillator that is packaged like this 16Mhz version.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 clock signal is produced by a 3.57Mhz crystal, a few resistors, and Z3 (a 7404). Z2 divides the clock by 4, resulting in a clock signal of approximately 900 KHz, which is provided at pin 9 of Z2.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you cannot find a 900 KHz TTL oscillator (I couldn’t) you can also use the 1MHz variant, and tune your pin up a little bit. ;-) Game play shouldn&#039;t be impacted, as long as the game doesn&#039;t have a timer related feature, like Timeline. Even games like Timeline will be minimally impacted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_system80_vorher.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The original clock section as found on every System 80, 80A and 80B MPU]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock_system80_nachher.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The clock section after installing a TTL oscillator.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To accomplish this mod, remove the following parts&lt;br /&gt;
*Y1 (Crystal)&lt;br /&gt;
*Z2 (TTL 7474)&lt;br /&gt;
*R3, R4 und R5 ( the three resistors above Z2). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Z3 is still needed for other functions. Leave it in place. Now place the oscillator in the Z2 position, with the ‘dot’ in the upper left corner (Pin 1). Because we need the clock signal at pin 9, jumper from pin 8 to pin 9 at the original Z2 position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Game Resets===&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games sometimes exhibit &amp;quot;resets&amp;quot;, especially when high power coils fire. Assuming you&#039;ve updated the power supply grounds and reflowed or replaced the header pins on the Power Supply, there are a few typical causes for System 80 resets.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 bad caps.JPG|140px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Filtering Capacitors]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#The 12VDC filter capacitor in the cabinet bottom which, if still original, should always be replaced. Originally, this was a 6800uf/25V capacitor. Replace with a 6800uf to 12,000uf/25V cap such as [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=RCT123M025V3550B&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat=| this one] from Great Plains Electronics. The filtered 12VDC is regulated down to 5VDC on the power supply board.  Note that some games have two of these capacitors (as shown). Note: purchase a [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=VR3A&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= VR3A capacitor clamp] from Great Plains Electronics when replacing the large capacitor for a clean looking job.&lt;br /&gt;
#The bridge rectifier that originates the 12VDC&lt;br /&gt;
#Missing, broken, or failed coil diodes&lt;br /&gt;
#Poor 5VDC power connections between the power supply and the MPU. The female connector on the MPU connects 5VDC to the MPU via molex crimp-on pins and a &amp;quot;double-wide&amp;quot; edge connector pad. Ground is connected in the same way. But you&#039;ve done the ground mods, right?&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A / 80B Resets====&lt;br /&gt;
A failed or failing reset board can &#039;&#039;cause&#039;&#039; resets.  The reset board may cause problems all of the time, or just when the game is under stress, like multiball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To see if the reset board is the problem, disconnect it.  If disconnecting the reset board resolves the issue, there are two fixes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Replace the large caps (C3 and C4).  These have dried out over the years and screw up the timing of these boards.&lt;br /&gt;
* Leave the reset board disconnected&amp;amp;mdash;if someone will always be in the general vicinity of the game to turn it off should the CPU lock up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When first trying to get a System 80A or System 80B game to boot properly, it is best to disconnect the reset board until the game is working.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors C3 and C4 are both 470 uf @ 16 volts. C1 is a 47 uf @ 16 volts. Be careful when unsoldering these capacitors as the foil traces are very delicate. The connector pins also develop bad solder joints so it is wise to resolder it.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Updating a dual game PROM MPU (1st generation) to a single game PROM configuration (2nd generation)===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted earlier, the first five system 80 games used both sockets at PROM1 and PROM2, populating them with 512 byte masked ROMs. Should one of these ROMs fail, you may be able to find a replacement, but they are becoming more pricey, more difficult to find, and are still prone to failure as they age.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A more flexible solution would be to update the MPU to use a single 2716 UVEPROM at the PROM1 socket. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Modifications must be made to both the solder side and the component side of the board. See the pictures below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Component side modification:&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the trace that extends from the left of Z10 between pins 6 and 7. A Dremel with a &amp;quot;ball shaped&amp;quot; cutter bit works beautifully for this. In the second picture below, the cut has already been made. I&#039;ve filled the cut hole with black Sharpie! to better show the location of the cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder side modifications:&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the traces leading to PROM1 socket, pins 19 and 21. Again, the cuts have been highlighted with black Sharpie!&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 19, to the PROM2 socket, pin 21 (connects A10)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 21, to the PROM2 socket, pin 24 (connects +5V to Vpp)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from the PROM1 socket, pin 22, to the PROM2 socket, pin 18 (connects A9)&lt;br /&gt;
#Jumper from Z10, pin 13 to the via just below and to the right of Z9 (as you view the back of the board)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Your MPU board is now configured for any System 80 game. All that remains is to acquire a 2716 EPROM containing the game&#039;s code. If you have the original ROM images, the DOS command to combine them is shown below. Modify as appropriate to match the file names you have.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
copy /b prom1.bin + prom2.bin combined.716&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The MPU may also be used in a System 80A game if U2/U3 are updated, and in a System 80B game if considerably more mods are made which frankly, just aren&#039;t worth it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80 1st Generation to 2nd Generation Board Updates&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:DremelBallCutter.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Dremel Tool with &amp;quot;Ball Cutter&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Z10TraceCut.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Cut in trace extending Left from Z10&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:PROM2-to-PROM1JumpersAndTraceCuts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;PROM2-to-PROM1 Socket Cuts and Jumpers&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Z10-Pin13-to-ViaJumper.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper connecting Z10, pin 13 to a &amp;quot;via&amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using a 2732 at the PROM2 position in a System 80B MPU===&lt;br /&gt;
====...in games that &amp;quot;normally&amp;quot; use a 2716====&lt;br /&gt;
It is easy to use a 2732 at position PROM2 with an MPU jumpered to use a 2732 for a game that normally populates that position with a 2716. Simply &amp;quot;double-up&amp;quot; the 2716 ROM image, and burn it into a 2732.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS command to accomplish this is ... copy /b image.2716 + image.2716 image.2732&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====...using an MA-1133 or MA-774 MPU in games that REQUIRE a 2732====&lt;br /&gt;
Some System 80B games require 4K of code space at PROM 2, which dictates a 2732 EPROM. An MPU built to use a 2716 EPROM at PROM2 can be modified to work, as is discussed below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU schematics of game manuals, such as &amp;quot;Bad Girls&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Big House&amp;quot;, state that E3 is directly connected to AB15 (address bus 15).  However, there is no mention of the factory modification (outlined below) performed on CPU boards stamped MA-1133.  Equally, should the user have an MA-774 CPU board, (used in games starting with Chicago Cubs Triple Play and ending with Robo-War), this modification can be performed to use the board in the following games.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Excalibur&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Girls&lt;br /&gt;
*Big House&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Shots&lt;br /&gt;
*Bone Busters, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
*Night Moves (made by International Concepts using the 80B board set)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PROM2 is actually located at the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot; on the PCB. The area on the board marked &amp;quot;PROM 2&amp;quot;, which has solder pads but no socket, is a legacy carried over from the first generation System 80 CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following information was taken from a service bulletin located in the back of the 1992 Gottlieb® parts catalog.  This modification makes AB15 available to PROM 2, allowing the use of a 2732 EPROM at this position. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This procedure can be used in reverse if you have an MA-1133 board and you need to use a 2716 at position PROM2.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
#If jumper E4 is installed, remove it. You will find the top of the E4 jumper located immediately to the right of the socket marked &amp;quot;PROM 1&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
#Install a jumper at E3. This connects the pad marked E3 to the dual pad marked E4.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, follow the trace from the pad marked E3 Southeast 1/8 inch, then South about 1/2 inch to a via. &lt;br /&gt;
#Find this via on the component side of the board. It will extend to the left to another via.&lt;br /&gt;
#Cut the trace between the two vias.&lt;br /&gt;
#On the solder side of the board, install a jumper from TC1, pin 35 to the right solder pad of the via which was just cut.&lt;br /&gt;
#All other jumpers should remain installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80B PROM 2 2732 Update&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB_sysS80b_2732_prom2_front.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;E4 removed, E3 installed, and trace cut below E3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB sysS80b 2732 prom2 back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Jumper from TC1 pin 35 to E3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 drvr pw.png|160px|thumb|left|The System 80A / 80B Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80 Driver board is responsible for all controlled lamps, relays, and &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;all solenoids&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via a simple interface between A1J4 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.  Although the driver board went through some minor changes over the years, the same board can be adapted for all of the System 80 platforms.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; total of 52 &#039;&#039;&#039;lamp circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the interface provides &amp;quot;device select&amp;quot; signals for each of the 74175s (Quad-D Flip-Flops) on the driver board, and 4 &amp;quot;bits&amp;quot; of data that is loaded (or &amp;quot;clocked&amp;quot;) into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives an MPS-A13 or MPS-U45 transistor, (NDS-U45 transistors were used in place of MPS-U45s in some cases). &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that there are some dedicated transistors, which control specific game relay coils across the System 80 / 80A platforms.  Relays such as the game over, tilt, and coin lockout relays are controlled by Q1, Q2, and Q3 respectively.  The tilt and game over relays use the same designation for the System 80B platform, however, the use of a coin lockout relay was abandoned by this time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_drvr_board_coin_ctrs.JPG|160px|thumb|left|Driver Board with Coin Counter Transistors Highlighted ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
To control the games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;solenoids circuits&#039;&#039;&#039;, the driver board uses signals directly from the CPU to enable transistors on the driver board which turn on up to 9 solenoids.  For solenoid control, the driver board uses MPS-U45, 2N3055, and 2N6043 transistors.  Starting and ending with the System 80 platform, (games from Spiderman to Haunted House), three transistors were reserved to drive optional mechanical coin counters. These mechanical coin counter solenoids and associated transistors are: solenoid 3 (Q54), 4 (Q55), and 7 (Q56). Starting with the System 80A platform, (Devil&#039;s Dare), these transistors were no longer reserved for coin counters, and were used for other functions. Equally, the 3 diodes associated with these 3 transistors were changed to 3 zero ohm jumpers.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The games&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;sound&#039;&#039;&#039; signals (S1, S2, S4, S8) also pass through the driver board at Z13, a 7404 Hex Inverter. See below for S16 and S32.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Repurposed Driver Board Circuits====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb under pf transistor.JPG‎|140px|thumb|left| A Typical Remote Transistor Mounted Under the Playfield]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Since quite a few System 80 games employ more than 9 solenoids, and since the original driver board design will drive a maximum of 9 solenoids, Gottlieb® repurposed some lamp outputs to drive &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot; which drive additional solenoids.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Gtb ma1011 trans board.JPG‎|160px|thumb|left| A Typical Transistor Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Once playfields became littered with numerous &amp;quot;under-playfield transistors&amp;quot;, Gottlieb® opted to merge some of these transistors into a transistor driver board.  The transistor driver board started to appear on Gottlieb® games nearly midway through the System 80B platform, with the game Victory.&lt;br /&gt;
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The sound S16 and S32 signals are also repurposed lamp outputs. For instance, Haunted House and Black Hole both repurpose L9 to S16. Robo-War repurposes lamp 4 to S16. Note that S16 is not consistently implemented across the System 80 family. Note also that references to the usage of S32 are difficult to find.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Sys80 driver screws.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Nuts / Screws Which Secure the 2N3055s Collector to Drive Line]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Make certain to inspect and tighten the screws which secure the 2N3055 TO-3 transistors to the driver board.  Specifically, the screws / nuts as marked in the pic.  They tie the transistor cases (collector) to the respective solenoid drive lines.  If these cases are not secured, the transistors will not function as intended.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Remote Mounted Transistors==== &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:UnderPFTransistor.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Under Playfield Transistor, with Emitter, Base, and Collector Labeled]]System 80 games have just nine dedicated solenoid circuits on the driver board.  To overcome this threshold, Gottlieb® added step-up transistors mounted to brackets underneath the playfield. Early on, a lamp driven transistor is used to &amp;quot;pre-drive&amp;quot; the larger solenoid transistor. However, there are instances where a solenoid transistor is used to pre-drive a remoted mounted transistor.  Eventually, Premier got smart and started mounting up to three transistors to PCBs, but only on later 80B games (Arena and newer). These PCBs were mounted behind the game&#039;s display board or on the side wall of the lower cabinet.  In some cases, primarily 80B games, the game&#039;s diagnostics will drive these transistors during test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On System 80 games, under playfield transistors were originally 2N5875s or 2N5879s. The failure rate of the original transistors tends to be rather high. 30 years can be a long time for a transistor of that technology. Should one fail, it can be replaced with its beefier siblings&amp;amp;mdash;2N5883 or 2N5884. An MJ2955 will work also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games used a mix of 2N5879 transistors and MJ2955 transistors for driving flash lamps and coils.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A ground wire is always connected to the tip of the transistor (collector) and leads to ground. On System 80 games, this wire is green/yellow (Gottlieb® wire color code 54).  On 80B games, ground wires are plain white with no trace (Gottlieb® wire color code 9).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;emitter&amp;quot; should be connected to the lug of the coil that has the non-banded side of the diode facing it (black-blue-blue in this picture).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; should be connected to the drive wire from the driver board (brown-red-red in this picture).&lt;br /&gt;
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Solenoids which use a remote mounted transistor cannot be enabled by temporarily grounding the pre-drive transistor&#039;s tab to ground. This test is typically performed to check the integrity of the wiring from the drive transistor to the solenoid.  This test however does not confirm if the drive transistor is good or not. &amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Remote Mounted Transistor Update=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Remote transistor circuitry.png|left|thumb|180px|Gottlieb® Remote Transistor Circuit]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
During the run of Black Hole, Gottlieb® released a service bulletin recommending that the existing 10Kohm pullup resistor be changed to a 4.7Kohm resistor when changing from a 2N5875 to a 2N5879 or equivalent.  Affected Black Hole games were marked serial number 6271 to 9160.  However, there were several games prior to and after Black Hole, where a pullup resistor was never installed.  And, don&#039;t always bank on the playfields installed in a game being original to the cabinet&#039;s serial number.  Case in point is a recently acquired Black Hole where the main playfield had a factory pull up resistor for the ball release coil transistor, but the 3 coils on the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole#Pull_Up_Resistors_Added_to_Remote_Transistors_.28Centrally_Located.29_on_Lower_Playfield lower playfield which use remote transistors] did not have the pull resistors added.&lt;br /&gt;
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It is highly recommended to add this resistor.  This upgrade will decrease the chances of particular solenoids, which use a remote mounted transistor, from locking on when the game is powered up.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Pullup circuitry.png|left|thumb|180px|Gottlieb® Remote Transistor Circuit w/ Pull Up Resistor Upgrade]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 4.7K resistor is soldered to the base of the remote mounted transistor, and then tied to the 24vdc solenoid bus.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Power On &amp;quot;Thunk&amp;quot;====&lt;br /&gt;
Due to the driver board design, certain solenoids and / or relays can pulse briefly as soon as a game is turned on.  To rectify the issue, please refer to the [[#Power_on_.22Thunk.22|Power on Thunk]] section above.  This applies to potentially all System 80/80A/80B games, where the solenoid / relay signal passes through one of the 74175 chips on the driver board.  &lt;br /&gt;
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====Correcting Solenoid Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb&#039;s implementation to control solenoids was, at a top level, identical to every other game manufacturer. Power is present at the coil, sometimes routed through the &amp;quot;Game Over&amp;quot; relay. A path to ground is switched on by a transistor which is enabled by upstream TTL logic. For the System 80 platform, this TTL logic is located on the MPU board. Signals are conveyed from the MPU to the driver board via the A1J4-to-A3J1 wire harness. These signals directly switch a path to ground on for one of the 9 designed-in solenoid circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted above, to accommodate game implementations needing more than 9 solenoids, Gottlieb repurposed some of the lamp driver circuits, driving 2N5875 (generally) transistors either screwed to the bottom of the playfield, or located on dedicated transistor boards. &lt;br /&gt;
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Solenoid problems can be divided into two simple categories, solenoids that do not engage and solenoids that are &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot;. Correcting these two situations is discussed below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Solenoid Doesn&#039;t Turn On=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, note that not all solenoids are always tested by the built in solenoid diagnostics. The first example of this is the coin counter solenoids (numbered 3, 4, and 7). To avoid artificially incrementing the coin drop counters, these coils are not pulsed. Other coils may be pulsed during lamp test. This is most often the case with System 80B games, using repurposed lamp driver circuits.&lt;br /&gt;
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:&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Problem Determination Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;lt;ol&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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With the game turned on and a game started, use a DMM to measure for coil power at the coil lug (generally either 24 or 38VDC). Power should be present at both lugs of the coil. If present on the coil lug attached to the banded side of the diode and not present at the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode, then the coil winding or it&#039;s attachment to one of the coil lugs is open.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Next, test paths to ground for the coil. Attach a wire with clip leads to game ground. Any green wire with yellow stripe will work fine. First, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;BRIEFLY&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; touch the other end of the wire to the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;non-banded&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; side of the coil lug. The coil should pull in. If it does not, then either the coil winding is open or the coil wire is not securely attached to the coil lug. Next, identify the driver board transistor that switches ground for the solenoid in question. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;BRIEFLY&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; touch the other end of the wire to the tab (MPS-U45 or 2N6043) or case (2N3055) of that transistor. The solenoid should pull in. If it does, this proves the path from the coil to the transistor, but doesn&#039;t prove anything about the transistor. If it doesn&#039;t pull in, then there is a break in continuity between the transistor and the coil. Likely suspects are the connector pins, the IDC connection of the wire to the connector, and the actual wire itself.&lt;br /&gt;
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At this point in the process, we know that the coil has power, and the path to ground via the transistor is valid. The next step is to test the actual transistor. &lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing an MPS-U45 (or NDS-U45) or an MPS-A13 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for one of the flanking legs.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between 1.2 and 1.4 should be displayed for the other flanking leg.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing a 2N6043 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the flanking legs in turn&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for each flanking leg&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of this range (generally dead shorts) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:TO-3Case2N3055.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Emitter, Base, and Collector parts of a TO-3 form transistor, like the 2N3055. Note that the emitter and the base pins are closer to one end of the TO-3 case.]]&lt;br /&gt;
:::Testing a 2N3055 transistor&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Set the DMM to diode check.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the metal casing of the transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on each of the legs in turn.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed for one of the legs.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement of &amp;quot;null&amp;quot; (no reading) should be displayed for the other leg.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;red&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead on the &amp;quot;base&amp;quot; lead of the transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the other lead of the transistor (the &amp;quot;emitter&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Place the &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;black&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; lead on the case of the transistor (the &amp;quot;collector&amp;quot;).&lt;br /&gt;
:::*A measurement between .5 and .7 should be displayed.&lt;br /&gt;
:::*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
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Test the output signal from the MPU at the driver board. This test completes the test of the driver board circuitry. If this test doesn&#039;t identify a problem, then the problem must lie upstream with the inter-board harness or on the MPU board itself. With a logic probe, and the game in solenoid test, probe the following points for solenoids 1 through 9. 1 - non-banded side of CR6, 2 - R53, 3 - non-banded side of CR2, 4 - non-banded side of CR4, 5 - R56, 6 - R59, 7 - non-banded side of CR4, 8 non-banded side of CR1, 9 - non-banded side of CR5. With the game in Solenoid test, each solenoid should be pulsed in order, with the pulse easily detectable with a logic probe on the appropriate spot. Note that the coin counter solenoids will not be pulsed in test, and games that don&#039;t use every solenoid won&#039;t pulse unused solenoid circuits. Consult the manual for solenoid numbering for a particular game.&lt;br /&gt;
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Test the output signal of the TTL circuitry on the MPU. Solenoids 1 through 9 are all enabled via signals from Z29 and Z30 on the MPU board. Both ICs are 7416s. Z29 pins 2, 4, 10, and 12 drive solenoids 1 through 4 respectively. Z30 pins 2, 4, 6, 10 and 12 drive solenoids 5, 6, 8, 9, and 7 respectively (note the order is not strictly ascending). If the output signal on the MPU is present, but the signal is not present on the driver board, then the problem is probably the inter-board connector.&lt;br /&gt;
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=====Solenoid Locked On=====&lt;br /&gt;
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A solenoid (or flasher) that is &amp;quot;locked on&amp;quot; is caused by coil power having a continuous path to ground. Remember, coil power is always present at the coil when a game is started and the game over relay is powered (for System 80/80A/80B games). 99.9% of the time, this continuous path to ground is caused by a shorted drive transistor; either an under-playfield transistor, a transistor on a transistor board, or a transistor on the driver board itself.&lt;br /&gt;
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Generally, a locked on coil will heat up, burn through the insulation on the coil windings, and cause direct shorts between windings. This effectively reduces the length of the wire and hence, the resistance. Once the resistance is reduced to less than 2 ohms or so, the continuous current through the transistor and the coil cause both to be irreparably damaged. For this reason, if you find a transistor shorted, check the associated coil. Likewise, if you find a coil shorted, or with significantly reduced resistance (ohms), check the associated transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
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Some solenoid driver circuits, like solenoid 8 that uses a 2N3055, are &amp;quot;pre-driven&amp;quot; by an MPS-U45 (or NDS-U45). Be sure to test the associated pre-driver transistor too.&lt;br /&gt;
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===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Lamp problems are common with most any pinball machine, and Gottlieb® System 80/A/B games are no exception.&lt;br /&gt;
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For controlled and GI lamps, Gottlieb® System 80/A/B games use either a #44 or #47 lamp.  The choice of which lamp to use is the preference of the game owner.&lt;br /&gt;
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For games with flash lamps, a #67 bulb is used.&lt;br /&gt;
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It is highly recommended &#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039; to replace or remove lamps with the power to the game on.  There are primarily two reasons for this.&lt;br /&gt;
#Some lamp sockets must have their mounting brackets bent back to access the bulb for replacement.  In turn, the potential of inadvertently shorting one lamp socket to another is possible.&lt;br /&gt;
#Lamps are constructed of an equal balance of glass and conductive metal.  If a bulb slips out of one&#039;s grasp when trying to remove or install with the power on, there are many areas in the bottom of the cabinet, where the metal of the bulb can short across.  A short across other circuits could potentially lead to other unplanned or otherwise unnecessary repairs needed to perform.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
So in short, change or remove bulbs with the game&#039;s power off, just to be safe.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All System 80 games have three separate lamp circuits, and some have a fourth.  The circuits are comprised of:&lt;br /&gt;
*General illumination for the backbox&lt;br /&gt;
*General illumination for the playfield&lt;br /&gt;
*Controlled lamps for primarily the playfield, although, there can be four controlled lamps located in the backbox (shoot again, high score game to date, tilt, and game over), depending on the era of the game.&lt;br /&gt;
*Auxiliary lamps used for effect, such as chaser lamps used around the backglass border of Mars God of War and Black Hole.  Auxiliary lamps are not used on all games.  Jump to the [[#Auxiliary_Lamp_Driver_Boards | Auxiliary Lamp Board section]] to see what games use auxiliary lamps.&lt;br /&gt;
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Below are several approaches used to determine the source of a lamp problem, and how it can be resolved.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
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====Bad Bulbs====&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing when troubleshooting lamp problems, and this may seem blatantly obvious, but determine whether the lamp is good or not.  The bulk of all lamp problems are simply burned out light bulbs.  Always try a known good bulb as the solution first. Don&#039;t rely on the bulb being brand new either.  The ratio of brand new, bad bulbs is slim, but there is that chance a new bulb is not good.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Dying battery.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Making certain an old 9v battery is putting out an acceptable lower voltage]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Testing bulb.JPG|thumb|right|200px|Testing a 6v bulb with a dying 9v battery]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The bulbs used in a System 80/A/B game are powered by ~6 volts, (the exception is the bulbs powered for the lower [[#Replacing_Black_Hole_Lower_Playfield_Illumination_Lamps_with_.2344_Lamps | playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House]]).  A great way to quickly test a bulb is to use a dying 9v battery.  Don&#039;t use a fresh 9v battery, or you will shorten the life of the bulb.  Find a battery that is roughly putting out 7v - 8.25v.  An old battery from a smoke detector works pretty well.&lt;br /&gt;
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Place the tip of the bulb on one of the battery terminals, and cock the outer metal casing of the bulb to touch the other terminal.  Orientation of the bulb with regards to the positive and negative terminals does not make a difference in this case.  Do not hold the bulb across the battery terminals for very long.  Just long enough to determine if the bulb&#039;s filament is lighting or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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You may also use a known working socket to test bulbs in...but that requires the game to be on while testing...which always presents some risk and is not recommended.  However, if there is no other option but to use a known good socket for testing bulbs, the preferred method is to use a socket located in the backbox lamp insert panel.  This unfortunately does not pertain to 65% of the System 80B games, because a fluorescent lamp was used for backbox illumination for them.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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Games that have not been played in a long time develop a film of corrosion between the lamp &amp;quot;nipple&amp;quot; and the lamp socket which prevents conductivity. Simply removing the lamp and scratching the nipple with something abrasive (like rubbing it on the lockdown bar receiver) may fix many &amp;quot;lamp out&amp;quot; problems. In some cases, a light socket cleaning stick (available from the Pinball Resource [http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html here]) may be useful for cleaning the lamp socket. Gottlieb® lamp sockets are comparatively beefy and do not fail often.&lt;br /&gt;
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====Lamp Power Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
Next, make certain there is power at the lamp socket.  The game will have to be turned on for the following procedures.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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=====General Illumination Lamp Power Issues=====&lt;br /&gt;
GI lamps are powered by ~6VAC.  When testing a GI lamp socket for power, each lead of the DMM (now set in AC mode) will be placed on the two leads of the lamp socket.  If there isn&#039;t power at the lamp socket, suspect a bad fuse first.  Keep in mind that the playfield GI and backbox GI for System 80, 80A, and a few 80B games (the first 3 80B games and the last 2), have two separate fuses located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet.  These are typically higher amperage rated fast-blo fuses. The backbox GI on a System 80 game is always on when the game is turned on.  If the backbox GI fuse is good, and no backbox lights are lit, the inline connection which feeds the GI could possibly be bad.  Unfortunately, this connection is not standard from game to game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebSystem80TiltRelayAnnotated.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Gottlieb® System 80 Tilt Relay with GI Lamps/Tilt Lamp Make-Break Switch Highlighted. This tilt relay is from a Gottlieb® Spiderman]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The playfield GI is always powered on too, except when the game is in tilt mode.  If the game was not tilted and /or the tilt switches are not stuck closed, check the switch stack on the tilt relay.  These switches can sometimes get bent or misaligned.  If the playfield GI fuse is good and the tilt relay switches are good, the inline connections may be suspect.&lt;br /&gt;
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If the fuse to a particular GI circuit is bad, and continues to blow every time a new fuse is installed, a short is probably causing the issue. A shorted lamp GI circuit is probably the worst and most difficult lamp related issue to resolve.  In most cases, the GI power lines are uninsulated wiring, which make them susceptible to shorted circuits.  First, determine if the GI short originates on the backbox lamp insert or on the playfield.  GI shorts on the playfield are typically more common than backbox lamp insert shorts.  Pop bumper lamps are generally not CPU controlled, and are included in the playfield GI string (some System 80B games are the exception, [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1975 RoboWar] being an example).  Also, depending on the game, star rollover lamps and kickout hole lamps are sometimes part of the playfield GI circuit.  Consult the game manual for these particulars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although it can be a pain and time consuming, the best approach is to remove all of the bulbs in the associated shorted GI string.  In removing all of the bulbs, we are trying to isolate whether the problem is a bad, defective bulb, or one of the GI power lines is shorting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Controlled Lamp Power Issues===== &lt;br /&gt;
Controlled lamps are powered by ~6VDC.  When testing a controlled lamp socket, the red lead of the DMM (now set in DC mode) will be placed on the lamp socket mounting bracket.  The bare wire soldered to the lamp socket&#039;s mounting bracket is the power bus not the ground bus, so be careful.  The black lead of the DMM will be placed on ground. If working under the playfield, the ground plate in the bottom of the cabinet is a good place to connect to ground.  If working in the backbox, find where one of the green wires with a yellow trace is screwed to the metalwork, and place the lead on it.  Depending on the game, System 80 side rails, lockdown bar assemblies, and other associated trim metalwork, except the coin door, were not grounded from the factory like Bally, Williams, and Stern.  Therefore, using any of these as a ground reference is not recommended.  Gottlieb® did start grounding the metalwork at the start of the System 80A platform.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there isn&#039;t any power at the lamp socket, suspect a bad fuse first.  The controlled lamp circuit has a separate fuse on the transformer board, and is normally a 5 amp slo-blo fuse.  If the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_fuses fuse tests fine], there is a separate set of switch leaves on the tilt relay, which pass the controlled lamp power to the playfield lamps.  Inspect and adjust these switches if necessary. If the controlled lamp fuse and the switches on the tilt relay both test good, there may be an issue with the source power connection to the rectified DC circuit on the game transformer board. Unfortunately, System 80/80A/80B used different connector designations for controlled lamp source power for different games. Consult the game manual / schematics to find the source of 6VDC on the transformer board power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the fuse for the controlled lamps is bad, and continues to blow after a new fuse is installed, suspect a bad controlled lamp bridge rectifier.  The lamp bridge rectifier is located on the transformer board.  Please see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier Testing a Bridge Rectifier] portion of the PinWiki guides. Before testing the bridge rectifier, try to isolate it as much as possible.  By isolating it, this will minimize the possibly skewed readings caused by attached devices (lamps and the power transformer).  Two key things to do would be to remove the lines which connect the bridge to the playfield and backbox lights, and remove the controlled lamp fuse. Keep in mind that a bridge rectifier can fail in such a way where it may not blow the controlled lamp fuse.  Although, a failed bridge blowing a fuse is a tad more common than not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all of the above tests good, there may be a short on the controlled lamp bus line.  This is not a very common occurrence, but it can happen.  Inspect the underside of the playfield for any wires or brackets touching the controlled lamp bus line, which shouldn&#039;t be touching.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bad Lamp Sockets====&lt;br /&gt;
Third, determine if the lamp socket is good.  Some games have been through the wringer, and the sockets didn&#039;t hold up too well due to abuse, a damp environment, or other various reasons.  Start by turning the &#039;&#039;&#039;power to the game off&#039;&#039;&#039;.  If the socket has some corrosion, try using a lamp socket cleaning tool first.  If a lamp socket cleaning tool is not available, a small wire brush used for cleaning copper fittings, a rolled up piece of 220 grit sandpaper, or a Dremel tool with a small wire brush attachment can all be used.  After the socket has been cleaned, place the bulb in the socket for the following procedures.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If testing a &#039;&#039;&#039;GI lamp&#039;&#039;&#039; socket, use the dying 9v battery trick again. Remove the fuse of the particular GI circuit which the lamp socket being tested is located.  Connect the terminals of the 9v battery to the bulb socket with alligator clip leads.  Be careful not to short the alligator clips to each other at the battery&#039;s terminals.  Equally be very careful not to short the clip leads to an adjacent switch on the pinball machine, or anything else for that matter.   One clip will connect to one side of the socket, and the other lead will go to the other side of the socket.  &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT ALLOW THE BATTERY TO STAY CONNECTED VERY LONG&#039;&#039;&#039;.  Since this is a GI lamp circuit, other lamps in the string will be powered by the battery.  If the battery is connected to the string for too long, the battery will start to get hot.  The battery does not have enough power to light a string of bulbs for very long.  The lamp may only glow dimly, but that is enough to determine if the socket is good or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If testing a &#039;&#039;&#039;controlled lamp&#039;&#039;&#039; socket, remove all of the connector housings from the bottom of the driver board first (A3-J2/J3/J4).  Then remove the fuse for the controlled lamp circuit.  Clip one lead of the battery to the lamp socket mounting bracket and the other to the solder tab.  The orientation of the negative and positive leads of the battery terminals makes no difference.  Again, keep the battery connected just long enough to see if the lamp lights to determine whether the lamp socket is good or not.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Controlled Lamp Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp(s) Will Not Turn On=====&lt;br /&gt;
So, the bulb is good; the socket is good; there&#039;s power at the socket; and the lamp still won&#039;t light.  Well, this occurrence can only really happen if there is a controlled lamp involved.  If all three of the above things apply, it can only mean one thing - the bulb is not getting properly grounded, and will not turn on.  The source of this problem may be due to several different issues.  But, it is best to start at the bulb socket, and work backward towards the CPU board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Determine if the connector and wiring from the output of the driver board to the lamp socket is good.  While the wires are usually solid, the single sided edge connectors are a frequent cause for loss of conductivity. Simply &amp;quot;buzzing&amp;quot; the connection from the lamp socket back to and onto the driver board may uncover the issue.  With the power off, check the continuity between the solder tab of the lamp socket and the collector (right leg) of the associated lamp transistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is continuity, it’s time to test the transistor. Transistors fail &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; (lamp never lights) and &amp;quot;shorted&amp;quot; (lamp is constantly on). A simple comparison of &amp;quot;diode check&amp;quot; readings between &amp;quot;same type&amp;quot; transistors on the driver board can identify failed transistors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing an &#039;&#039;&#039;MPS-A13&#039;&#039;&#039; transistor.&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to diode test&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;red&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead of your DMM on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Testing an &#039;&#039;&#039;MPS-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; transistor (or &#039;&#039;&#039;NDS-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;CEN-U45&#039;&#039;&#039; which are equivalents).&lt;br /&gt;
#Set your DMM to diode test&lt;br /&gt;
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &amp;lt;font color=Red&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;red&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt; lead of your DMM on the center leg&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3&lt;br /&gt;
#Move the &#039;&#039;&#039;black&#039;&#039;&#039; probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7&lt;br /&gt;
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ReplacingMPS-U45WithMPS-A13.jpg|200px|left|thumb|An NDS-U45 replaced by the less expensive MPS-A13. This replacement is advised ONLY if the transistor drives a single lamp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80/80A/80B architecture does not utilize a lamp matrix. Controlled lamps are driven by individual transistors on the driver board, exactly like Gottlieb® System 1 games and Bally/Stern 6800 games. Driver board operation is pretty simple. The CPU places a signal on Logical Device lines 1 through 4 (LD1...LD4) and &amp;quot;strobes&amp;quot; the appropriate 74175 device select pin to latch the LDx values into the 74175 Quad FlipFlop&#039;s outputs. These outputs then drive the associated transistor(s) on, providing a path to ground for the lamp. That&#039;s all there is to it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transistors on the driver board are a mix of 2N6043s, MPS-U45s (or NDS-U45s), 2N3055s, and MPS-A13s. 2N6043s drive coils. Generally, the MPS-U45 transistors drive coils, pre-drive coils via remote mounted transistors and 2N3055s, or drive more than one lamp. The 2N3055s drive coils (in some cases, not all 3 of these are used in a game). The MPS-A13s generally drive a single lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MPS-A13 transistors are still widely available and cheap. MPS-U45s are obsolete but may be replaced with CEN-U45 transistors [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=cen-u45&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= available from Great Plains Electronics] and Mouser.  A much cheaper MPS-A13 may sometimes be substituted for the less common and more expensive MPS-U45, as shown in the pic at left for Q22. Although this will work, you must ensure that the transistor is driving only a single lamp. This obviously limits the &amp;quot;portability&amp;quot; of the driver board. If Q22 were used to switch anything other than a single lamp on, it will be destroyed. Substitute with caution. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2N6043 transistors used on the driver board are still available but becoming pricey. 2N6043s can be replaced by a TIP-102.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; A nice convention Gottlieb® used with System 80 games is that lamp &amp;quot;n&amp;quot; is driven by transistor &amp;quot;n+1&amp;quot; on the driver board. This is always true.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the transistor tests fine, a gate on the 74175 may be bad, which is rare but does happen. Use a logic probe on the input and output of the associated lamp gate to check definitively.  Again, comparing the signal between different drive pins can help identify a failed driver circuit. 74175s can easily and reliably be tested using the procedure in the &amp;quot;General for all games&amp;quot; section, [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit here].  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If more than one controlled lamp is not lighting, check the game’s manual / schematics to see if the bulbs are related in some way. &lt;br /&gt;
*When four lamps are not lighting, it may appear that the 74175 which controls the lamp transistors is at fault. This can happen, but the more commonly related issue is that the device select signal for a particular 74175 is lost between the CPU and driver board.  This can be due to a bad connection at A1J4 or A3J1.  See the chart below for the lamp device select signal path. &lt;br /&gt;
*When a whole group of lamps fail to light, review the schematics to see if the lamp transistors share a common ground path. Again, poor connections at the driver board, or the path to ground (generally green with yellow tracer or solid white wire) on the bottom board ground strap may be the root cause.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the connections, associated 74175, and lamp transistors are all correct, the circuitry on the CPU board is probably at fault.  Again, using a logic probe to determine which component on the CPU board has failed is the best course of action.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Device Select&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;CPU Connector&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Driver Input&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Driver Quad Flip-Flop (74175)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Transistor #s&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Lamp #s&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS1 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-C&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-C&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z1&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q1-Q4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Game Over relay, Tilt relay, coin lockout, L3&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS2 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q5-Q8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L4-L7&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS3 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-E&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-E&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z3&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q9-Q12&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L8, sound 16, L10, L11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS4 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-D&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-D&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z4&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q13-Q16&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L12-L15&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS5 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-H&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-H&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z5&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q17-Q20&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L16-L19&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS6 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-F&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-F&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z6&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q21-Q24&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L20-L23&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS7 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-K&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-K&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z7&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q33-Q36&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L24-L27&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS8 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-J&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-J&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z8&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q37-Q40&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L28-L31&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS9 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-M&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-M&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z9&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L32-L35&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS10 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-L&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-L&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z10&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L36-L39&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS11 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-N&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-N&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z11&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Q41-Q44&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L40-L43&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;DS12 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A1J4-P&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;A3J1-P&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Z12*&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;Q45-Q48 &amp;amp; Q49-Q52&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;L44-L47 &amp;amp; L48-L51 (inverse of L44-L47)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;*Z12 not only outputs four lamp signals like all the other 11 74175s, but it also outputs four inverted lamp signals.  These signals are typically used for lamps located on opposite sides of the playfield which alternate on / off between each other.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Lamp(s) Will Not Turn Off=====&lt;br /&gt;
If a single lamp is involved, or only a handful of lamps with different lamp device select signals, suspect the lamps&#039; associated drive transistors.  If a group of four lamps will not turn off, and they are all controlled by the same 74175, suspect the associated 74175 or the device select for that 74175 (&amp;quot;DS&amp;quot; on the schematics). If numerous groups of four lamps will not turn off, suspect the associated 7404 on the CPU board.&lt;br /&gt;
*Z17 for DS1-DS5 device select signals or,&lt;br /&gt;
*Z24 for DS6-DS11 device select signals or,&lt;br /&gt;
*Z26 for DS12-DS16 device select signals.  &lt;br /&gt;
If the lamps involved originate from more than one group of device select signals, suspect the 74154 at Z25 or, backing up one more step, the 6532 RIOT at U5.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flash Lamps===&lt;br /&gt;
Flash lamps are #67 powered by the 24VDC solenoid bus.  They are controlled like any of the coils that have a under-playfield transistor.  To step down 24V to a more lamp-friendly 13V, the power is routed through a single 4 ohm 7 watt resistor for powering paired flash lamps wired in parallel.  An 8 ohm 5 watt resistor is used for powering single flash lamps. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On early 80B games, the power resistors are mounted to a small bakelite board under the playfield (up to 4), and the transistors are mounted to a bracket (up to 6).  On later games, starting with Arena, new PCBs were introduced that had the transistor, power resistor, and 4.7K pullup resistor all on the same board (up to 3).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If lamps are locked on, or won&#039;t work, the remote mounted transistors associated with them have failed.  Generally, the pre-drive transistor on the driver board has also failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Under-playfield flash lamp transistors are 2N5879s or MJ2955s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Auxiliary Lamp Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB Aux Board Headers.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Reflowed Header Pins on Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
For issues with lamps controlled by the auxiliary lamp driver board, follow the troubleshooting section for controlled lamps [[Gottlieb_System_80#Controlled_Lamp_Issues | above]].  Additionally, make certain that +5vdc and ground are present on the auxiliary driver board.  If either are missing, the potential for cracked header connections is possible.  Remove the existing solder from the header connections, and resolder the header pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Unconventional Lamps====&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games added quite a few special lighting effects.  Gottlieb® never used software when hardware would do.  This is probably harkens back to their electromechanical days.  So, there are usually some creative, different ways used to control lamps.  For instance:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Monte Carlo and Spring Break have Auxiliary Lamp Driver boards where power to a bunch of #44 lamps is switched by a relay.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Genesis drives #67 lamps with an auxiliary power board.  Power to this board is controlled via a relay that turns itself to activate the &amp;quot;reveal&amp;quot;; this relay is activated by a lamp driver, but the relay will keep itself on until one revolution of the reveal gimmick is done.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; Spring Break has eight #44 lamps controlled by one relay; the relay is controlled with a lamp driver.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Diagnosing these is generally the same as other lamps, but first, understand the peculiar arrangement for the game in question.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Switch Matrix Operation ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb System 80 switch matrix is implemented via the 6532 RIOT (RAM, I/O, Timer) at U4, strobe ICs at Z11 and Z12 (7404), return ICs at Z13 and Z14 (7400), and DIP switch &amp;quot;read enables&amp;quot; at Z15. The switch matrix simply provides a TTL &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; pulse on a single switch matrix column, then listens for a &amp;quot;low&amp;quot; return on the switch rows. Closed switches complete the circuit and enable a switch matrix return. Switch returns are processed then the next column is strobed. The game software &amp;quot;debounces&amp;quot; all switches to accommodate less than electrically and mechanically perfect switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Common Switch Matrix Faults ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isolating Switch Problems to the MPU or the Game Wiring =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since Gottlieb uniquely used edge connectors instead of more common header pins, isolating switch matrix issues to either the MPU or to the game wiring is not quite as easy. However, &amp;quot;jumping&amp;quot; from a switch column to a switch row is possible using the same technique. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Place the game into switch test&lt;br /&gt;
*Using a short length of wire, short each column drive to each row return, one at a time&lt;br /&gt;
*A single switch closure should be shown as each connection is made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a single switch closure is shown for each and every connection made, then the MPU circuitry is probably undamaged, and the playfield wiring, switches, and diodes should be examined. If a switch closure isn&#039;t registered, or more than one switch closure is reported, then the MPU circuitry is damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== MPU Switch Matrix Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Blown Switch Matrix ICs ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80SwitchMatrixICs.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Identifying the System 80 MPU switch matrix ICs. Z15 is just below Z11/Z12.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80MPUBlownZ13.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Diode testing Z13 uncovers a shorted IC caused by shorting HV to the switch matrix wiring.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The most prevalent reason for switch matrix failures is shorting high voltage (i.e. coil voltage) to the switch matrix. As always, it&#039;s inadvisable to work on your game with the power on. Sometimes, &amp;quot;fish paper&amp;quot; designed to isolate switch blades from higher voltage conductors becomes displaced, shorting high voltage to the switch matrix, and damaging some/all of the switch matrix ICs. An example of such a switch is the kicking target under the upper playfield in Haunted House.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A quick check of Z11 through Z15 using the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit diode test] will reveal failed ICs easily. An example is pictured at right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this same diode test on U4, comparing the results to U5 and U6, may help to identify a failed RIOT.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====== Alkaline Damaged Connectors ======&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Playfield switch wiring is connected to MPU edge connector J6, which is sometimes directly below, but at the very least in close proximity, of the OEM NiCad battery. These batteries frequently leak their corrosive contents onto the board, affecting nearby connectors, including the switch matrix connectors at J6 (playfield) and J5 (cabinet). Close examination of the friction pins in the connector as well as the copper traces at the edge connector may reveal alkaline corrosion impacting proper switch matrix operation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Playfield Switch Matrix Issues =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the switch matrix issue has been isolated to the playfield, follow the tips listed in the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#The_Switch_Matrix Switch Matrix Diagnosis] section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One additional item to note is that Gottlieb did not attach isolation diodes directly to switches. Instead, isolation diodes are collected on &amp;quot;diode boards&amp;quot; which are screwed to the playfield underside or the cabinet bottom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
The blue Futaba display glasses used by Gottlieb® System 1 and 80 machines are a fairly reliable, long-lasting display.  Although, they can and do still fail.  It&#039;s just a matter of diagnosing the symptoms of a failed display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Display problems can primarily be classified into the following categories:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#Power problems&lt;br /&gt;
#Display glass failure&lt;br /&gt;
#Data problems&lt;br /&gt;
#Tired displays&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 displays.png‎|thumb|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A displays.png‎|thumb|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80A Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Power Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before even attempting to work on System 80/80A/80B displays, there are two caveats to heed.  First and foremost, the displays function due to the necessity of several voltages, including high voltage.  &#039;&#039;&#039;IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON HIGH VOLTAGE CIRCUITS, THEN DO NOT WORK ON THESE DISPLAYS!&#039;&#039;&#039;  High voltage can hurt or even kill you.  If you don&#039;t feel comfortable working around this type of scenario, then hire a professional to do the work.  Secondly, any time a display connector needs to be disconnected, &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT REMOVE ANY DISPLAY RELATED CONNECTOR WITH THE POWER ON!&#039;&#039;&#039;  This goes for the connectors located directly at the display, connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the CPU board, A2J3 on the power supply board, and A7J3 / A7P3 (early System 80 up to Mars God of War), A10J1 / A10P1 (when used), A12J4 / A12P4 (Black Hole and after), or A10J7 / A10P7 (when used) from the transformer.  Removing connectors with the power on can damage the display, the CPU board, and / or you.  Sorry to &amp;quot;yell&amp;quot;, but it is extremely important to stress the above two statements.  Now that this is out of the way, let&#039;s move on.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As stated above, the displays need several sources of voltage to function properly. The display voltages used are broken down by the type of display: +60VDC and 5VAC with a positive 8VDC offset are used for the 6-digit displays; +42VDC, +5VDC logic (for the 7432 chip - Z1), and 3VAC with a positive 4VDC offset are used for the 4-digit status display. When using a 6 digit display with DI513 Dionics chips, +5VDC is necessary for RP1 and RP2, both 8.2K resistor networks. Likewise, 7 digit displays also have a 7432 chip on them, and +5VDC is needed for them too. If any of the above voltages are missing, the display will never light.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Prior to plugging in and turning the game on for the very first time, it is a good practice to check all of the fuse values located on the transformer board first. There is a 1/4 amp slo-blo fuse used for the display voltage, which is located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet.  With the game unplugged from the wall outlet, remove the fuse from its fuse holder.  When checking fuses, never &amp;quot;eyeball&amp;quot; a fuse.  Your eyes may tell you that the fuse is good, but your eyes can fool you.  Use a digital multi-meter (DMM) or a continuity tester to check fuses. Put each lead of DMM on opposite ends of the fuse.  A tone should be heard.  If not, the fuse is bad, and should be replaced with the same value.  Fuses are used to protect equipment, the surroundings, and you.  Installing fuse values with higher ratings is very dangerous. &#039;&#039;&#039;DO NOT USE A FUSE RATED AT A HIGHER RECOMMENDED VALUE!&#039;&#039;&#039;  If the existing fuse is blown, it may not necessarily mean there is a problem.  Fuses do get stressed, and sometimes just fail.  However, there is more than likely a problem somewhere in the display power train.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With the game still unplugged, the next course of action is to place connector A2J1 on the power supply.  A2P1 is the bottom connection on the power supply, and receives all voltages directly from the transformers and a single ground from the ground strip.  Once A2J1 is connected, remove any other connections from the power supply (A2J2 and A2J3).  All voltages should be tested before any boards or displays are connected to them.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb_sys80_psu_A2J3_highli.JPG|left|thumb|200px|System 1 Power Supply with A2J3 highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
At this point, plug the game in, and turn it on.  Using a DMM or volt meter, check all of the voltages at A2P3.  For the +60VDC (A2P3-1) and +42VDC (A2P3-3), any ground connection can be used as a reference. The +42VDC is derived from the +60VDC.  If there is +60VDC, but not +42VDC, The 18v CR6 zener diode or the R5 resistor may have failed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the two high voltages test all right, it&#039;s time to check the offset voltages.  The offset voltages are +5VDC (A2P1-6) and +8VDC (A2P1-9).  Use any ground connection as a ground reference to test these voltages.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If displays are not lighting, but either the +42VDC is present on the display (status display) or the +60VDC is present on the 6 digit or 7 digit displays, check for the presence of AC voltage used to power the display filament.  Do not use ground as a reference when measuring these voltages, as they are AC.  Measurements must be taken from the send and return lines.  If the AC voltage is missing, check the in-line connection at A7J3 / A7P3 (early System 80 up to Mars God of War) or A12J4 / A12P4 (Black Hole and after).  Also, some games have more connectors which pass the AC voltages.  These additional connectors are A10J7 / A10P7 or A10J1 / A10P1. Check the voltages on the input and output of the connector to see if fatigued connectors are the source of the voltage loss.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If all the display voltages are satisfactory, it is time to move onto the next step of visually inspecting the display boards for obvious defects.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====What is the DC Offset Voltage?=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ACSineWave.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Representation of AC voltage with and without a DC offset component. Note the red sine wave is shifted &amp;quot;up&amp;quot; by the DC component.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DCOffsetClip.jpg|right|thumb|200px|A snippet from a typical System 80 schematic showing &amp;quot;DC offset&amp;quot; voltages connected to the center tap of the transformer secondary where AC filament voltages originate.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Futaba displays as used in Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games require AC power that is &amp;quot;offset&amp;quot; by a specific DC voltage; 8VDC for the 6/7 digit displays, 5VDC for the 4-digit credit/match display. The DC component of the AC voltage raises the AC sine wave by that DC voltage. If the offset voltage is missing, inconsistent or wavy displays will result.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Glass Failure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Good display.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with a good display glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:NippleGuard.jpg|200px|thumb|right|A cheap and easy way to protect your nipples]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The simplest and easiest problem to identify is display glass failure.  All of the 6 digit displays used by Gottlieb® System 80, and 7 digit displays used by System 80A games will have a black &amp;quot;blotch&amp;quot;, for lack of a better term, in the upper left and lower right corner of the glass.  The 4-digit status display typically has only one black blotch.  The evidence of a black blotch or blotches is good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bad sys1 display1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with Broken Nipple on Back]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
However, if there is a muted white blotch visible at the corners of the display, it means the display&#039;s &amp;quot;vacuum&amp;quot; has been compromised, either due to a cracked glass or broken nipple. If this is the case, the display glass can not be repaired and is useless.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A simple, cheap, and effective way to &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;protect the glass nipple&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; is to cut a ring of hose (garden hose was used in the picture at right), place it around the nipple, and then fill the ring with silicon caulk (preferred) or hot glue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Broken top filament1.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Display with Broken Top Filament. Note that this is the Dionics chipset version of the display.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The display filaments within the glass can also break.  The end result will be segments with missing sections or &amp;quot;hot spots&amp;quot; when the display is powered.  The &amp;quot;hot spots&amp;quot; are caused by the &amp;quot;dangling&amp;quot;, broken filament shorting to other good filaments.  If a display filament breaks, do not use the display as shorted displays can damage other game components.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Example Display with Failed Filament&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilamentOFFAnnotated.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Another example of a broken filament. This one has broken and shorted to another part of the display.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilamentScoreOverall.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The same display, showing a dark line across the center where the filament has failed.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:OpenCenterFilament.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Closeup of same display.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Even though the glass itself is bad, the chips on the display board may still be good.  So don&#039;t necessarily discount the display as being all bad.  UDN6118A and 7432, (chip used on status display only), chips are getting more costly, and Dionics DI513s are very scarce.  Since the display board is single sided, removal of the chips is quite easy.  Plus, the display PCBs are no longer being made.  The display board and / or chips may come in handy some time in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====UDN6118 and Other Display Logic Chip Failures====&lt;br /&gt;
The majority of 4 and 6 digit displays utilize two UDN6118 &amp;quot;Vacuum Fluorescent Display Drivers&amp;quot;. These ICs do not fail often. However, when they do fail shorted, they can affect the performance of the rest of the display set.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:TestingUDN6118AndUDN7180.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Test method for a UDN6118 or UDN7180 display driver. Colored dots represent DMM probe locations (red lead, black lead)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
UDN6118 driver ICs can be tested using a DMM. Click on the image at left for the procedure.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;A Blown UDN6118 Display Driver&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:UDN6118BlownTopSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Damage is hard to photograph, but the outline of the overheated chip core can be seen.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:UDN6118BlownBottomSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;A much more visible image of the heat damage.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb4DigitGlassSegmentCLockedOn.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A 4 digit display with segment &amp;quot;c&amp;quot; locked on, caused by a failed 7432 on the board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;Gottlieb 4 digit displays use two UDN6118s and a single 7432. The 7432 can fail in such a way as to cause segments to lock on, as shown in the picture at left showing segment &amp;quot;c&amp;quot; locked on. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Data Problems==== &lt;br /&gt;
When there are display issues, one first has to determine whether there is a problem with the display itself, the connectors involved, or the chips on the CPU board that control it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;font color=red&amp;gt;NOTE: Do not connect or disconnect the display connectors or connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the MPU (right hand side) with the power on! Doing so WILL damage the MPU board display logic ICs.&#039;&#039;&#039; &amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following applies to System 80 and 80A displays.  For information regarding the System 80B display board, scroll down to the end of this section.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebDisplaySegmentDigitOutAnnotated.jpg|340px|thumb|left|An excellent image to show both digit and segment problems. Note the red circles showing the same digit out on for players 1 and 3. Also note the yellow circles showing segment &amp;quot;g&amp;quot; out for players 1 and 2.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Issue Isolated to a Single Display&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem is only showing up one display, suspect that the connector at the display itself is problematic, or there is an issue on the display board.  Problems on the display board can consist of a bad solder joint, a broken display lead from the display glass, or faults with the driver chips on the board (Sprague UDN6118 or Dionics DI513, if an old System 1 display is used).  The exception is if only 4 displays and a status display are used, which is common to most System 80/80A games.  In this display configuration, if there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;segment issue&#039;&#039;&#039; with the status display, there may be an issue with the segment drive chip on the CPU board.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S80LockedHSegment.jpg|340px|thumb|left|An example of a display showing segment &amp;quot;h&amp;quot; locked on. The segment was locked on for both the player 3 and player 4 displays. This was caused by a failure of the 7404 at Z16. This picture was snapped right after pressing the diagnostic button on the coin door. The display should be blank.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Issue With Multiple Displays&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the problem shows up on two or more displays, suspect one of the two connectors on the CPU board (A1J2 or A1J3), one of the two connectors on the two displays (they are daisy-chained with an IDC connector), or the chips which control the display data on the CPU board.  If there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;digit issue&#039;&#039;&#039;, the issue will be present on &#039;&#039;&#039;player 1 and 3&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;player 2 and 4&#039;&#039;&#039; displays.  If there is a &#039;&#039;&#039;segment issue&#039;&#039;&#039;, the issue will be present on &#039;&#039;&#039;player 1 and 2&#039;&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;&#039;player 3 and 4&#039;&#039;&#039; displays, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;status display&#039;&#039;&#039;.  If more than 4 scoring displays are used, on games such as Pink Panther, Black Hole, Haunted House, Devil&#039;s Dare, etc., consult the game manual for display digit and segment mapping.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80 displays.png‎|550px|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb sys80A displays.png‎|550px|right|Gottlieb® System 80A Display Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The charts listed below, map out each signal to each specific display.  The first chart maps the display digit information, while the second and third charts map the display segment information.  This information only applies to games where 4 scoring displays and 1 status display are used, although digit group names have been added, if more displays are used.  All of the charts apply to System 80 and 80A, but not 80B.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Digit Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Digit Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Display(s)&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D16 (80A only) || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group F) || A1J3-16 || Z26-8 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D1 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-1 || Z17-4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D2 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-2 || Z17-6&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D3 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-3 || Z17-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D4 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-4 || Z17-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D5 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-5 || Z17-8 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D6 || Players 1 &amp;amp; 3 (Group D) || A1J3-6 || Z24-2 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D13 (80A only) || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group F) || A1J3-13 || Z26-4 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D7 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-7 || Z24-4 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D8 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-8 || Z24-6  &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D9 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-9 || Z24-12 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D10 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-10 || Z24-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D11 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-11 || Z24-8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D12 || Players 2 &amp;amp; 4 (Group E) || A1J3-12|| Z26-2 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D13 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-13 || Z26-4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D14 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-14 || Z26-6 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D15 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-15 || Z26-10 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| D16 || Status (Group F) || A1J3-16 || Z26-8  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group A Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group A || A1J2-1 || Z19-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group A || A1J2-2 || Z19-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group A || A1J2-3 || Z19-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group A || A1J2-4 || Z19-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group A || A1J2-5 || Z19-9&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group A || A1J2-6 || Z19-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group A || A1J2-7 || Z19-14&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group A || A1J2-8 || Z16-12 &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group B Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group B || A1J2-9 || Z21-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group B || A1J2-10 || Z21-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group B || A1J2-11 || Z21-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group B || A1J2-12 || Z21-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group B || A1J2-13 || Z21-9 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group B || A1J2-14 || Z21-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group B || A1J2-15 || Z21-14 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group B || A1J2-16 || Z16-10  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Display Segment Group C Information&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Segment&lt;br /&gt;
!Display Group&lt;br /&gt;
!CPU Pin Connection&lt;br /&gt;
!Chip on CPU Board - Pin&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| a || Segment Group C || A1J2-17 || Z23-13 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| b || Segment Group C || A1J2-18 || Z23-12&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| c || Segment Group C || A1J2-19 || Z23-11&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| d || Segment Group C || A1J2-20 || Z23-10&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| e || Segment Group C || A1J2-21 || Z23-9 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| f || Segment Group C || A1J2-22 || Z23-15 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| g || Segment Group C || A1J2-23 || Z23-14 &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| h || Segment Group C || A1J2-24 || Z17-2  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Display Issues====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System80BDisplayDivotAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A System 80B Display edge connector. One data conductor to the display was not &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; across the connection due to a corrosion &amp;quot;divot&amp;quot;. This caused the entire display to remain blank. Reflowing the edge connector solder corrected the issue. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebEdgeConnectorDivots.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Another System 80B Display edge connector, this one with corrosion marks on it. The corrosion also caused the entire display to remain blank. Reflowing the edge connector solder corrected the issue. &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;Image courtesy of Chris Hibler&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80Bs displays are completely different how the digits and segments are decoded and driven.  Unlike System 80 and 80A, where the decoder chips are located on the CPU board, the System 80B display has a single segment (U3) and two digit decoder chips (U1 &amp;amp; U2) located on the display board itself.  Unfortunately, both of these chips (10941 &amp;amp; 10939 respectively) were a product of Rockwell International, and are not that prevalent.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has been observed that if any of the display data signals are missing between the CPU board and the 7417 inverters on the display board, the two displays will not illuminate at all.  If voltages on the display board are within spec, it may be advantageous to check all of the data signal edge connector pins on the CPU board and the display board. If both the edge connector and the female connectors look good, use a logic probe to ensure signals are getting to the input side of both 7417 (or later 74LS367) inverters on the board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that the System 80B jumpers, that replace the 7448s at Z19 and Z21 on System 80 and 80A boards, can be a source of discontinuity due to cracked solder joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has been observed that some of the earlier System 80B games are more prone to the display randomly being blank upon turning on the machine. Rock and Raven are the most common with this issue, however, the first three 80Bs, Chicago Cubs, Tag Team, and Bounty Hunter, are susceptible too. The best recourse is to repin both A1-J2 and A4-J1 / 1A4-J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rejuvenating Tired Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System1-80DisplayBrightUp.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Rejuvenating tired System 1/80 displays]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 displays, especially those that haven&#039;t been turned on for a long time, sometimes fade. These displays can be rejuvenated by applying voltage to the outside pins of the display glass. Note that voltage should be applied to the display glass pins, NOT the card edge pins. This process &amp;quot;burns&amp;quot; the impurities that accumulate on the filaments off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the picture at left, general illumination power (7VAC) from the lamp insert panel is being used to rejuvenate a display.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Procedure:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
1. Turn the game off&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. Remove the connector from the display&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. Connect jumper clips from a voltage source to each of the outside pins of the display glass. Note that the lower the voltage applied, the longer the display can tolerate this &amp;quot;rejuvenation&amp;quot;.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;That is why some techs choose to use the lower GI AC voltage for this purpose.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. Power the game on for 1 minute.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Disconnect the jumper wires and reconnect the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. Power on to test the display.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7. If the display still isn&#039;t bright enough, repeat this process for 1 minute each time, until the display is satisfactorily bright.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that if the display filaments, which run across the display horizontally begin to glow orange (or worse, white), too much voltage is being applied or the display has been connected too long. This risks burning one or more of the display filaments out and ruining the display. A cautious, 1 minute at a time, process is warranted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note also that one particular System 80 tech (&amp;quot;System 80, not just a job, it&#039;s an adventure&amp;quot;) suggests that merely leaving the game powered on for 24 hours will accomplish the same rejuvenation.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Does Not Light====&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:gottlieb-display-broken-legs.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Broken legs on display glass]]&lt;br /&gt;
If the glass of a 6 or 7-digit display does not light, but there are no white spots in the corners (white spots indicate bad glass), the outer-most legs on the glass may be broken. A magnifying glass may be necessary to inspect the pins since the gap in the breaks may be extremely small. The outer-most legs are responsible for supplying power to the glass, which is why the glass would not light in this situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These legs may be broken especially on displays that have a green or blue plastic filter covering them. These legs can get broken after someone presses down on the plastic cover of the display when pushing the display onto the PCB supports mounted on the light board in the backbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To repair, line up the two broken halves of the leg with needle-nose pliers, heat, and solder. If the solder isn&#039;t sticking, lightly sand back some of the black tarnish with fine sandpaper or a fiberglass eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 Display Test 19 Never Starts====&lt;br /&gt;
System 80 games provide a display test (number 19). The test &amp;quot;walks&amp;quot; all digits, from 0 to 9, through all displays. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A failed 6532 RIOT at U5 can cause the game to appear dead, as if awaiting an input. The display test will never commence.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Individual 6-digit Display Interferes With Other Displays==== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, a particular display can interfere with the operation of other 6-digit/4-digit displays no matter which game or player position it is plugged into. These symptoms can include:&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing digits to go missing on other displays&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing certain digits to dim significantly on other displays&lt;br /&gt;
* Causing certain digits to display garbage or non-numbers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of these symptoms is a bad R1 resistor. When powered off, the resistor will give the correct reading. However, the resistor may fail when power is applied. The R1 resistor (10k ohm, 1/2 Watt, 5% resistor) may need to be replaced if the above symptoms are present.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Individual 7-digit Display Causes Other Displays To Go Blank====&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes, a particular display can interfere with the operation of the other 7-digit/4-digit displays no matter which game or player position it is plugged into. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a particular display causes all other displays to go blank, the likely cause is a failure of the Z2 6118P chip, which drives the digits of the display. This chip can be replaced with the more commonly found UDN6118A chip. Also keep in mind that it&#039;s possible the 7448 and the other 6118P controlling the segments could be damaged as well, so be prepared for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===All Other Display Issues (Not Caused by Displays)===&lt;br /&gt;
There are several issues which appear to be display related, however, they ultimately are not.  In these instances, the displays are used instead as a visual identifier of a particular issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Open Slam Switch==== &lt;br /&gt;
If after turning a System 80 game on, and the scoring displays turn on immediately without a 5 second delay, there is a problem.  However, if the displays are showing all of the outer segments (all segments necessary to display a zero) lit, and &amp;quot;strobing&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;rolling&amp;quot; rapidly as simulated in the image below, this isn&#039;t a display problem. The cause of this problem is an open slam switch on the coin door. To address this issue, see the PinWiki section [[#Slam_Switch_Modification | Slam Switch Modification]].&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb 6digit slam scaled.gif|500px|thumb|left|Simulation of displays indicating an open slam switch. Note the &amp;quot;rolling&amp;quot; perimeter display segments.]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====All Displays Dim or at Half Brightness====&lt;br /&gt;
This applies to System 80/80A games with 6 or 7 digit displays. If all the displays appear dim or at about half brightness, check the 60v test point on the power supply. If it reads about 30-35v, then the dim display issue is caused by the power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the power supply, Q2 regulates the 60v, so if that component has failed, or if there is a problem with the solder joints or pads on the back of the board, this can result in half the voltage for the displays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Carefully inspect the back of the power supply for cracked solder joints or through-hole pads that have popped off the PCB. Because Q2 has a large/heavy heat sink, the component tends to move around lot, which may cause these issues. If nothing is apparent with a visual inspection, test for continuity between Q2&#039;s legs and the traces on the PCB .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[file:gottlieb-sys80-psu-q2-pad-problem.jpg|thumb|250px|left|The pad for the center leg of Q2 has separated from the PCB and will need to be repaired]]&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
Before doing any kind of work, or blaming the sound board for not putting out sound, review the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting section] first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In particular for System 80 games, ensure that the dip switches that enable sound are set correctly. And, ensure that the dip switch actually works. Games like Spiderman use one of the 32 MPU dip switches to enable background and scoring sounds. Games like Haunted House, Black Hole, etc use dipswitch 5 on the Sound and Speech board to enable background sound.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====The Long and Winding Road of the Sound Signals====&lt;br /&gt;
The sound signals follow very roundabout path before reaching their destination on the sound board.  Sounds S1, S2, S4, and S8 are originated on the MPU board by RIOT U6.  These 4 sound signals then pass through a 7404 inverter (Z27), pass through a 7408 2 input AND (Z31), and exit the MPU board via the A1J4 connection (MPU / driver board interconnect harness).  The signals enter the driver board via A3J1, pass through another 7404 inverter (Z13), and exit the driver board via A3J5.  Finally, they enter the sound board via the only connection on the sound board, A6J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If any of the sound signals are lost, this potentially happens due to poor edge connections, however, 7404s are known to fail too.  The best way to check for discontinuity is to use a DMM or ohmmeter to check the path from the exiting chip to the chip it enters on the following board.  Another method for checking for signal loss is a logic probe.  This method is not as simple though, because some generations of System 80s do not have a sound test.  Therefore, waiting for a particular signal to trigger can be tricky.  The benefit of using a logic probe is to determine if a particular signal is entering and exiting a specific chip, and if the signal transforms (if it is supposed to) like intended (ie. the 7404 will invert the signal from high to low or low to high).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some sound boards use a fifth sound signal, known as S16.  S16 is actually driven by an MPS-A13 like any other single lamp drive. S16 can follow a very convoluted path too, depending on the particular game.  For example, Haunted House uses S16.  It originates on the MPU with all of the other lamp signals, and becomes lamp drive Q10 on the driver board.  It exits the driver board via A3J2, passes through a inline connector, A10J4, passes through another inline connector, A12P4, and finally reaches the sound board at A6J1.  That is a lot of mileage for just 1 little sound signal!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
System 80B games, starting with Rock, which use the dual 6502 processor sound boards, use Q5 as sound signal S16.  Please be aware that the System 80B documentation does not always notate this information regarding S16!!!  In this case, S16 follows a much simpler path.  It exits the driver board via A3J2 and goes directly to the sound board at A6J1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, if appears that certain sound signals are missing or the wrong sounds are triggered, suspect a bad connection first.  Then, suspect a bad 7404 within the sound signal path.  Then, check all other potential problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is noteworthy that the 7404 U7 located on early System 80 sound boards (sound only) do fail also.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 Sounds Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80 sound.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound Board (Sounds only)]]&lt;br /&gt;
This board, first used in Panthera, is problematic to fix. The main issue is that the board uses the long since obsolete 6503 processor (think of it as a short 6502) and a &amp;quot;masked ROM/RIOT&amp;quot; 6530. The 6530 was specifically programmed for Gottlieb sound boards. They are therefore, impossible to replace unless you can scavenge a working one from another sound board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only replacement option at this time, other than sourcing a used board, is Pascal Janin&#039;s reproduction board. This board is a bit pricey but is engineered quite well. The board can be found here: [http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php?lg=en http://www.flippp.fr/pifx.php?lg=en].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:GottliebSoundsOnlyBoardCorrosion.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A leaky audio filter cap caused significant corrosion to several traces on this board.]][[Image:System80SoundsOnlyLeakyCap.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Audio filter cap removed, corrosion removed, traces tinned. The leaky cap can be seen in the top of the picture.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;This board operates on three different voltages: +5v, +12v, and -12v. The +5 volts comes in on J1 pin 5 from the machine&#039;s power supply board. The +12 volts comes in on J1 pin 1 from the machine&#039;s bottom panel. The -12 volts is generated on the sounds only board and it receives AC power input on J1 pins 3 and 4. You can measure the -12 volts by connecting your volt meter across zener diode CR5 (1N4742A).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The test button on this era sound board will only work if the two dipswitches are set in opposite positions on the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As noted above, this board is tough to repair. If the 6530 is dead...you&#039;re SOL. A dead 6503 might be replaced. The other ICs on the board, like the LM380 amp and the 555 timer are still readily available. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A common issue with the board seems to be the leaky large capacitor on the board. Fortunately, this is easy to repair. Remove the old cap. Abate the corrosion as shown in the picture at right. Replace the cap. When this cap leaks, it can completely sever the sound signal path. Sounds might sound scratchy or incomplete too. The cap is easy to remove and replace. It&#039;s worth a shot.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80 / 80A Sound and Speech Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Different Revisions of the Sound and Speech Boards=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=220px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Revisions of the Gottlieb Sound and Speech board&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS Back B20887-1.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS Back B20887-2.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-2&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Back.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;B20887-3&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS B-20887-3 Front Added Resistors.JPG|thumb|left|200px|B-20887-3 Sound and Speech Board with Resistors Highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
With the third revision sound and speech board, the resistors which were added to the solder side of the -1 and -2 boards were now incorporated in the board design. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound and Speech Board Operation=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board represents the high point in the System 80 family as far as sound generation is concerned. By combining sound and voice circuitry, the board is flexible enough to be used in several different games, with different voice calls, all generated via the Votrax SC-01 speech synthesizer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board is itself a single board computer, and should be debugged similar to any non-working MPU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The board interfaces with the System 80 MPU via a 6 bit (S1, S2, ..., S32) wide &amp;quot;data bus&amp;quot;. The 6 interface bits form a binary code which define specific sounds (or speech) to play. This enables 63 separate sounds to be played. Each communication between the MPU and the Sound and Speech board is &amp;quot;stand alone&amp;quot;. That is, the system does not make use of successive sound commands to mean different things as the Bally Squawk and Talk implementation does. In practice, since S32 is never used, a maximum of 31 unique sounds are commanded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Four of the bits in the interface are controlled (grounded) by circuitry on the MPU (starting at the U6 RIOT) and a &amp;quot;pass through&amp;quot; 7404 inverter on the driver board (Z13). The remaining two bits are implemented via &amp;quot;lamp drive&amp;quot; transistors (Q10 for S16) on the driver board, and comparator circuitry on the S&amp;amp;S board (U24).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sound select signals are fielded by the S&amp;amp;S board&#039;s 6532 RIOT which generates an interrupt to the 6502 processor. The 6502 reads the sound number commanded from the 6532 as it services the interrupt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The S&amp;amp;S board&#039;s 6502&#039;s program code, as well as sound data, is stored in two 2716 EPROMs, PROM 1 and PROM 2.  These EPROMs are typically labeled at the factory with the model number of the game they are for, and the suffixes /S1 &amp;amp; /S2. For example &amp;quot;668/S1&amp;quot; is the label on one of the Black Hole sound ROMs. Although the board can be strapped for two 2732 EPROMs, in practice, this was never done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound and speech board can field and queue sound commands at the same time as it is driving the sound and speech circuitry lanes. The board will never interrupt or prematurely terminate a sound being played. The board will also never reorganize the queue of sounds to be played. Each sound to be played will be played until it&#039;s conclusion. The 6502 knows when &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; have completed playing since it is solely in control of the sound lane. The 6502 knows when &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; calls have completed processing by the SC-01 via a non-maskable interrupt sent via the SC-01&#039;s ~A/R signal to the 6502&#039;s NMI pin. Timing to sequence speech phonemes together rapidly is critical, hence the use of the non-maskable interrupt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 6502 creates &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; via one circuitry lane. It creates &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; through a second, separate circuitry lane. At the end of each lane, just prior to input to the main LM379S amplifier, sound and speech is summed. The relative volume of each lane can be tuned via 10K trim pots at the top of the board, R15 and R16.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Sound Lane&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Simple sounds (not voice) are created by the 6502 reading data from the sound ROMs and latching it into two 74LS75 data latches. The 74LS75s latch the data when selected via a 74LS02 (NOR gate) at U10 which NORs the R/W signal along with a device select signal from the 74LS138 at U4. the device select signal selects U7 and U8 simultaneously to latch data bus signals DB0 - DB7 all at once.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two 74LS75s provide the data to a 1408 D-to-A (digital to analog) converter at U20. In this way, 511 different digital codes can be converted to analog levels by the 1408. The analog output of the 1408 can be attenuated via a 10K &amp;quot;variable resistor&amp;quot; at R13. The signal is then amplified and inverted by an LM741 analog inverter (U22). The analog signal is then fed to the LM379S for final amplification. Note that the 1408 DAC is obsolete, but may be replaced by the more available DAC0808.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Speech Lane&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Speech is ultimately created by the Votrax SC-01 voice chip. The SC-01 accepts &amp;quot;phoneme&amp;quot; codes and renders the analog speech output to the LM379S for final amplification. The phoneme codes are placed on the 6502 data bus and pass through a 74LS05 &amp;quot;level shifter&amp;quot; and inverter at U13. The codes are accepted by the SC-01 on pins 9 through 14 when pin 7 is strobed (the phoneme code is latched on the rising edge of the strobe). The &amp;quot;pitch&amp;quot; of the SC-01 voice is controlled by I1/I2 (pins 3 and 2). Frequency and timing control is achieved via MCK and MCR (pins 15 and 16, which are tied together). Frequency and timing are controlled via nearly identical circuitry as is used in the &amp;quot;sound&amp;quot; lane. Frequency and timing are referred to in the schematics as the &amp;quot;Voice Clock&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Reset signal&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The reset circuit is pretty simple. A 470uf/50V cap charges when power is applied. Once charged, the originating 5VDC power is twice inverted and cleaned up via a Schmitt Trigger at U1, and finally presented to the ~RESET signal (pin 40) of the 6502.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Test button&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The test button, located on the upper left side of the S&amp;amp;S board, grounds pin 17 of the 6532 RIOT. After reading the RIOT data, the 6502 process then plays the appropriate test sound, which varies by game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SC-01 pinout&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Pin Number(s)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal Name&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Signal Purpose&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;1 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Vdd&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Input Voltage&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;2-3 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;I1, I2&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Instantaneous pitch adjustment. Will change pitch of phoneme being spoken.&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;7 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;S&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Strobe to indicate a phoneme code is ready&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;8 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;~A/R&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Acknowledge receipt of phoneme strobe, indicate completion of phoneme processing&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;9-14 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;P5-P0&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Phoneme number select (from fixed phoneme table)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;15-16 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;MCK/MCR&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;External Clock Signal (probably used to alter phoneme pronunciation via varying the clock)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;20-22 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;CB, AF, AO&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Audio Output&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;amp;nbsp;18 || &amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Ground&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt; || &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sounds and Speech board DIP switch settings=====&lt;br /&gt;
The Sound and Speech board has a bank of DIP switches. For at least Black Hole, the function of these switches is as follows:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-1 - Used in self-test only&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-2 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-3/4 - Attract mode speech frequency&lt;br /&gt;
** OFF/OFF - disabled&lt;br /&gt;
** ON/OFF - attract mode speech every 10 seconds&lt;br /&gt;
** OFF/ON - attract mode speech every 2 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
** ON/ON - attract mode speech every 4 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-5 - ON = background sound enabled, OFF = background sound disabled&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-6 - ON = all speech enabled, OFF = all speech disabled&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-7 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
*DIP-8 - Not used&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound &amp;quot;Locks Up&amp;quot; after certain switch closures=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SC-01.jpg|thumb|200px|left|The long since obsolete, pricey, and hard to find SC-01 speech chip. This one is an SC-01-A, said to be a little beefier.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This problem may be caused by a malfunctioning or missing SC-01 (or SC-01-A) speech chip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Games such as Black Hole, Mars God of War, and Volcano utilized the SC-01 phoneme speech chip. These games &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;require&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; a working SC-01 to be present, not only for the speech portions of the sound, but for the sound to not &amp;quot;lock up&amp;quot; after the first time that a speech call is made. The CPU relies on an interrupt from the 6532 RIOT to restart sound command processing. That interrupt originates from an &amp;quot;all done&amp;quot; signal from the SC-01 speech chip (shown as ~A/R in the schematics, SC-01 pin 8). If the RIOT never receives an &amp;quot;all done&amp;quot; signal (at PB7) then it will not interrupt the processor and no further speech or sound will be created.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is also possible that the 2N2222 at Q3 has failed, not allowing the interrupt signal to reach the RIOT. Q3 inverts the ~A/R signal and conveys it to the RIOT as A/~R and also to the MPU as a non-maskable interrupt (U3 6502, pin 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Game background sound continues after game over=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This has been noticed in &amp;quot;Mars, God of War&amp;quot; predominately, but other System 80 games that use the Speech and Sound board may exhibit similar symptoms.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cause of the problem is MPU DIP switch 25. The switch MUST be ON, as noted in the manual. Even if the switch appears to be &amp;quot;on&amp;quot;, buzz across the switch solder pads on the back side of the board to ensure that the switch has not failed. Gottlieb sometimes used &amp;quot;rocker&amp;quot; switches, which seem to have a high failure rate.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An &amp;quot;On Target&amp;quot; newsletter from June, 1981 discusses something similar to this problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound is &amp;quot;garbled&amp;quot; or phonemes appear jumbled=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;!--&lt;br /&gt;
While this problem is uncommon, it&#039;s quite maddening to track down. However, since the board architecture is split between a &amp;quot;sounds&amp;quot; lane and a &amp;quot;speech&amp;quot; lane, at least the number of suspect components can be narrowed. In at least one instance, &amp;quot;garbled&amp;quot; sound was caused by a failed 74LS75 latch. Just after the game was turned on, sounds were normal. But, as components on the speech and sound board would &amp;quot;heat up&amp;quot;, speech became garbled, progressively becoming worse, until the speech was completely unintelligible, and then completely missing. The 74LS75 latches may be replaced by 7475s. --&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Using the MA-483 Sound Amp Board on a Sound and Speech Board=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback.JPG|130px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® MA-483 Piggyback Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB SS Power Mod.JPG||260px|thumb|right|Gottlieb® Sound and Speech Power Supply with components highlighted]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If using the MA-483 sound amp board on a Sound and Speech board, or if the sounds only System 80A sound board is going to be used, the factory Sound and Speech power supply cannot be used without modification.  The reason is because the original LM379S amp is powered by 30vdc, and the TDA2002 amp on the MA-483 only needs 16vdc.  If the TDA2002 was powered by 30vdc, it would be destroyed.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The modification is quite simple, and is done by replacing only two components (R1 and CR1). R1 is 430 ohm 1/2 watt and CR1 is 1N4751A 30v 1 watt zener diode.  R1 should be replaced with a 1.5Kohm 1/2 watt resistor and CR1 should be replaced with 1N4746A 18V 1 watt zener diode.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing the Obsolete LM379S Amplifier with a Modern Amplifier=====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;This information originally published by J. &amp;quot;kirb&amp;quot; Kirby. Additional pictures and some editing provided by Chris Hibler. Used with permission.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Gottlieb System 80 Audio Amp Replacment...why?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Gtb sys80&amp;amp;a s&amp;amp;s.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Gottlieb® System 80 Sound &amp;amp; Speech Board as used on Mars, God of War, Black Hole, Haunted House, Volcano, and some video games]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Gottlieb® Sound and Speech board uses an LM379 or LM379s audio amp in the final amplification section. This amp became hard to find around 1983. Gottlieb® provided an alternative for this amp (see prior section) and discontinued using the Speech and Sound board further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Their solution was to buy a piggyback board from Gottlieb® that used an LM2002 or a TDA2002 amp. But the LM2002 or TDA2002 amps require 16VDC to operate (instead of the 30VDC used by the LM379). This necessitated a change to the sound board power supply. There were many components to replace or remove, not to mention that you would have to make the piggyback board yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SOLUTION? Find a newer amp that required fewer components. A replacment amp can be put together using only the following parts which can be easily sourced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*LM1875T Audio Amp&lt;br /&gt;
*14 pin DIP socket&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat sink&lt;br /&gt;
*Heat sink compound&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once you&#039;ve sourced these parts, a replacement amp is easy to construct and only requires removal of the old LM379 amp and addition of one jumper (to provide 12VDC, covered later).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Let&#039;s start with the basics. System 80 games used 4 different sound boards. This amp replacement applies only to the Sound and Speech board used in Mars: God of War, Black Hole (domestic version), Haunted House, Volcano, Devil&#039;s Dare, Caveman, Rocky, Q*bert&#039;s Quest, Super Orbit, Royal Flush Deluxe (early production), Amazon Hunt (early production), and video games like Q*bert.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;LM379 Audio Amp Testing&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;	&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First of all, is your amp really bad? Basic tests to identify a failed amp...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*With the game on, turn the volume pot up as high as it will go. Do you hear a hum? This is normal and is an indicator that your amp is working.&lt;br /&gt;
*Check the voltages at the sound board. 30VDC is required to power the amp. Verify that this is working correctly or your amp won&#039;t work at all.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure the speakers are connected and working right. You can test speakers using a &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; size battery. Briefly connect the battery across the speaker and you should see the speaker&#039;s cone push out. Do this for only a second or two...speakers don&#039;t like DC voltages.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure the volume adjustment pot is connected correctly and working properly. A dirty pot will make sounds junky, but they usually don&#039;t completely fail. You can &amp;quot;twizzle&amp;quot; the pot to remove oxidation that may have formed on the internal conductors.&lt;br /&gt;
*Headphones can be used to see if the sounds are getting to the amp. Connect one of the headphone conductors (the one closest to the headphone &amp;quot;handle&amp;quot;) to ground. Connect one of the other two headphone conductors (assuming stereo headphones) to the center leg of R15 or R16. You should be able to hear sounds that the board is making through the headphones. Your amp is probably bad if you can hear sounds at R15 or R16, but not through the speakers, assuming you&#039;ve tested the speaker to be good and you have 30VDC power at the sound board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;LM379 Audio Amp Replacement Procedure&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mark the &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; of the heat sink so you can later determine orientation of the original amp should this be necessary. Pin 1 of the amp can&#039;t be identifed without removing the two screws that secure the finned heat sink to the chips integrated heat sink. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remove the LM379 amp and heat sink assembly from the board. Desolder all 14 pins and pull the amp off the board. The LM379 heat sink may be soldered to the board so you&#039;ll need to remove that solder too. Be forewarned, the solder pads are delicate and easily damaged. &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note how the LM379 is upside-down in relation to other chips on the board.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; This will be important later.&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Building the New Amp Assembly&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the new amp to the 14 pin DIP. Use the diagram below as a guide. The pinouts are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;margin: 1em auto 1em auto;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Amp Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Socket Pin&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
!&amp;amp;nbsp;Purpose&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 1 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 9 || &amp;amp;nbsp;+ amp input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 2 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 8 || &amp;amp;nbsp;- amp input&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 3 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 4 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Ground&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 4 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 10 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Audio out&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 5 || &amp;amp;nbsp;pin 1 || &amp;amp;nbsp;Vcc (+30VDC)&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It will take some fancy bending to connect all of the amp legs in a way that they do not touch one another, but it can be done. It is important that the amp stands straight up and that the pins don&#039;t touch each other. See the diagram below for  better info. Don&#039;t worry about the 12VDC connection right now. We&#039;ll connect that later.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM379ReplacementNewAmpPinout.jpg‎|600px|center|Pinout schematic to attach the LM1875 amp to a 14 pin DIP socket]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;One Tech&#039;s Implementation (Heat Sink Added Later)&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpFrontSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpRearSide.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Rear side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Attaching the heat sink&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, yes, you need a heat sink. Audio amps run hot. Without a heat sink, the amps life will be dramatically shortened.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mount the heat sink to the amp/socket assembly. You may have to modify your heat sink so that it doesn&#039;t contact anything but the LM1875 amp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Heat sink compound should be spread on any metal to metal surface that is to conduct heat. This will improve the heat sink&#039;s efficiency and is a must on this device to work right. Without the compound, the amp will overheat and shutdown. It may even be damaged.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=270px heights=270px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;Kirb&#039;s original completed assembly&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpSideViewKirb.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Side view.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:LM379ReplacementAmpFrontSideKirb.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Front view.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Final Steps&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:CompleteAssemblyInSitu.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The completed assembly, mounted to the Sound and Speech Board.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the new amp assembly directly to the board. Normally you would use a socket, but that will  lead to audio problems. It is better just to solder it into the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ACHTUNG! Remember that pin 1 of the amp solder pads on the board is upside-down relative to every other IC on the board, and you need to install your new amp assembly with pin 1 &amp;quot;down&amp;quot;. Make sure this is done right. There is a 1 screened to the back of the board that should help you orient the assembly. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:LM379Replacement12VDCSource.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Connecting 12VDC to the amp.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Now that the pins are soldered to the board, we have to connect 12VDC to pin 14 of the socket. This is easily found at the positive (+) side of C39. This 12VDC biases the +IN so that it won&#039;t saturate. Your amp will only work for about 30 seconds without this 12VDC.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check all of your work one more time, then test the amp and see what you get. If you&#039;ve followed these steps correctly, your sound should be loud and clear!&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Sound Mapping =====&lt;br /&gt;
The interface between the driver board/MPU and the sound board is a simple bit map. An example bit map can be found on the [http://www.pinwiki.com//wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole Black Hole] specific page. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A Sound Only Board====&lt;br /&gt;
=====Sound Cutting Out / No Sound=====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GTB 23172-1 Sound Amp Piggyback Back.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Piggyback Amplifier Board w/ Cracked Header Pins]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® had a tendency of using single-sided boards for their &amp;quot;piggy back&amp;quot; / daughter boards, and these boards are susceptible to cracked header pin solder joints.  The MA-483 amplifier board is no different.  If the sound appears to be cutting out or their are no sounds at all, the header joints on the MA-483 may have developed cracks.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before suspecting the daughter board header joints, review the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting Basic Sound Troubleshooting] section located in the &amp;quot;General for all games&amp;quot; section. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80A / 80B Sound with Piggyback Board====&lt;br /&gt;
The System 80A / 80B sound board is nearly the same as the first generation System 80 sound only sound board.  It utilizes a 2716 EPROM versus a masked ROM like the System 80 sound board.  This was potentially due to the Harris 7643 masked ROM being obsolete.  The 80A / 80B board does not use a test button.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like the System 80 sounds only board, this board has 2 obsolete chips on it, the CPU (6503) and the RRIOT (6530).  On the plus side, these boards did not get destroyed nearly as much as the original System 80 sounds only boards (plugging the System 80 sounds only board into a System 1 game would destroy it in a very short time).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-766)====&lt;br /&gt;
This sound board has two independent 6502 CPUs.  One exclusively drives a DAC (digital-to-analog converter).  The other drives the speech chip, Orator, (not used for speech on this generation of sound board, but it is used to generate sounds), and two AY-3-8913 sound chips.  Each is pretty much independent, sharing essentially only the sound select lines, the reset signal, and the output section. The gates of one TTL chip are used by both 6502s to communicate between the subsystems via the NMI signal to each 6502 among other functions. The ROMs, CPUs, and accessory chips, are all localized to the particular subsystem other than the inter-processor communication just mentioned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the LED and test switch are only relevant for the CPU that operates the speech and synthesizer chips, not the chip connected directly to the DAC. With this in mind, it should be possible to troubleshoot this board using a divide-and-conquer approach.  For instance, if the LED isn&#039;t blinking in/off at about a 50% duty cycle, then the subsystem for the 6502 that controls the LED has to have a fault, but the other subsystem may be fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since this sound board is really just a more complex MPU board, or single board computer, the usual diagnostic steps are in order.&lt;br /&gt;
#Verify the ROM images are valid.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the reset signal begins low and then transitions to high after about 1/2 second.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the external clock signal is present at pin 37 of both 6502 processors.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the data lines on the 6502 (pins 33 through 26) are pulsing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the address lines on the 6502 (pins 9 through 20, 22 through 25) are pulsing.&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that the external clocks are pulsing at pins 3 and 39 of the 6502 processors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-886)====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA-886.jpg|200px|right|thumb|A repaired MA-886 sound board. Resistors R15, R16, R14, and R13 (top to bottom) are shown with blue Sharpie marks on their left ends, the end to probe when testing the sound channel. The other two components in the rectangle are high frequency ceramic filter capacitors which rarely fail.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 is generally the same board as the MA-766 sound board.  The main differences are that the MA-886 uses .156&amp;quot; header pins instead of edge connections, the Orator chip was no longer used, and SW1 was abandoned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Troubleshooting this board is nearly identical to the steps noted above for the MA-766 board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One useful aspect of the board is that 4 channels of sound are summed by the LM324 at B1 before final amplification offboard. &lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 1 is the output from the 7528 DAC at E2. An example of the sounds that this channel makes is the &amp;quot;Destroy Alpha One&amp;quot; and other voices used in Robowar. This channel also contributes the &amp;quot;skittering&amp;quot; sound when the ball pass the rollunder on the ramp wireform and the &amp;quot;energy pulse&amp;quot; sound when the ball rolls over any of the top 4 lane rollovers. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R16&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 2 is the output from the AY-3-8913 (if present) at H4. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R14&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 3 is the output from the AY-3-8913 (if present) at K4. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R13&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Channel 4 is the output from the MF-4 at E5. This signal passes through &#039;&#039;&#039;R15&#039;&#039;&#039; before summing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Placing an oscilloscope probe on the end of these resistors attached to the sound generating circuitry for that channel should show a purposeful signal (versus noise). If not, it&#039;s a good bet that one of the devices in that sound channel has failed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Several games (Bone Busters, Hoops, Bell Ringer, Silver Slugger, Car Hop, Deadly Weapon, Title Fight, and Vegas to name a few) use the MA-866 sound board paired with the MA-1294 auxiliary sound board. The two boards are connected via a special ribbon cable with dip &amp;quot;pins&amp;quot; on each end. WARNING: remove these connectors ONLY by sliding a flat blade screwdriver under it. Trying to &amp;quot;pull&amp;quot; the connector off with fingers on each side WILL cause the connector to be damaged. This sound board pair makes a two tone sound at power on. The two tones are different notes, like &amp;quot;LA-TI&amp;quot;. The first tone originates from the YM2151 on the MA-1294 auxiliary sound board. The second tone originates from the 7528 DAC. If either tone is missing, or unclear, suspect the associated sound lane.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====System 80B Sound Board (MA-886) Jumpers J7 and J8====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA886JumperComparison.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The left board is from Silver Slugger (a System 3 game) which has both J7 and J8 installed. The right board is from Night Moves which has only J7 installed.]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GottliebMA886SchematicSnippet.jpg|200px|right|thumb|A snippet of the schematic for the two boards showing that without J8 installed, the sound board will not be &amp;quot;interrupted&amp;quot; to indicate a new sound command is to be processed.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The MA-886 sound board was used in both System 80B and System 3 games. Two jumpers allow the board to be configured to accept the signal at connector P1, pin 9, as input. J8 IN enables this. J8 OUT defeats this. It&#039;s important to ensure these jumpers are installed appropriately for a particular game.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sys80 Flippers.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Typical System 80 Flippers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80 flipper assemblies are very well engineered, and very little goes wrong with them.  Due to this, they are considered to be the &amp;quot;Sherman Tanks&amp;quot; of flippers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B games other than Bone Busters utilize the traditional &amp;quot;fat&amp;quot; flipper bat design (similar to Bally, Chicago Coin, and Stern), which is a carry over from the last flipper design of Gottlieb® System 1 games. The 3&amp;quot; plastic flipper bat is technically called a &amp;quot;flipper island&amp;quot; (Gottlieb® part number A-13150), and uses a 3/8&amp;quot; wide rubber ring versus the more common 1/2&amp;quot; wide rubber all other manufacturers use.  Another anomaly regarding Gottlieb® flippers from this era is that they are the only flipper design that uses an upper and lower flipper bushing system.  Neither bushing protrudes through the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
System 80/80A/80B flippers (other than Bone Busters) use an A-17875 (standard), A-24161 (stronger), or A-20095 (strongest) dual wound flipper coil.  The general design is a coil with two windings, the &amp;quot;power stroke&amp;quot; (low resistance) and &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; (high resistance) windings, just like most other flipper coil designs. However, only a single diode is used with this serial winding design versus others which employ a dual diode, parallel winding design.  Here&#039;s how it all works.  When initially engaged via the flipper cabinet button switches, both the power stroke and hold windings receive power, however, the hold winding is bypassed or shorted by the end of stroke (EOS) switch (electricity follows the path of least resistance).  As the flipper actuates and opens the EOS switch, the power is then transferred to both the power and hold windings (the resistance sum of the two windings), creating a very high resistance.  The high resistance allows the coil to remain turned on without creating stress on the low resistance power winding.  Hence, the coil can stay turned on indefinitely in theory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B flipper systems do not use a flipper relay per se.  Flipper power flows through switch pairs on Q &amp;amp; T relays located under the playfield, along with other non-computer controlled coils like slingshots.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For problems and resolutions for the flippers used in Bone Busters, please see the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3#Flipper_Problems Flipper Problems] section in the Gottlieb System 3 repair guide. &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers Won&#039;t Work at All====&lt;br /&gt;
Like any flipper issue, it has be determined whether the problem is electrical or mechanical in nature.  Start with obvious first.  Look for broken wires at the flipper coil, EOS switch, and cabinet switch first.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
During visual inspection, make certain that the flipper EOS switch is closed (use an ohmmeter to determine this), and the switch pairs on the tilt and game over relays are properly gapped and closed.  Equally, inspect the switch pairs to see if any of the switch blades are broken or missing their contacts.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since high current passes through all of the switches which enable the flipper, any of the switches may be suspect.  It is somewhat common for games which have been sitting dormant for years that the cabinet switch and / or EOS switch become so fouled, the flipper will not budge at all.  The remedy is to file these switches with an ignition file.  See the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#How_to_Properly_File_Switch_Contacts How to Properly File Switch Contacts] section.  A flexstone will not work for this job, as the cabinet and EOS switch contacts are very hard.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Inspect the cabinet switches for broken female spade connectors where the cabinet wiring attaches to the switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, look at the flipper plunger / link assembly.  The plunger link is a hefty plastic piece which inserted into at hollowed out end of the flipper plunger.  The link is connected to the plunger with a small roll pin.  The link can break or the roll pin can fall out, due to vibration.  If the link is no longer connected to the plunger, the flipper will not move at all.  Refrain from trying to engage the flipper with the cabinet switches.  Continuing to enable the flipper coil will stress the coil, because the EOS switch will not open, transferring power.  The end result is an overheated flipper or damaged flipper coil.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers are Weak, Sluggish, or Erratic====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:System1-80FlipperLinkDamageAnnotated.jpg|thumb|left|200px|A Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B Flipper Plunger/Link/Crank Parts. Note the &amp;quot;hogged out&amp;quot; part of the link]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Worn Flipper Link&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The design of the flipper crank and flipper link / plunger is peculiar to Gottlieb® games.  Gottlieb® games from the System 80/80A/80B era use a very meaty flipper link, which does not have a pivot point between it and the connected plunger.  To achieve the necessary fulcrum, the flipper link has an oval opening at the point where the link and flipper crank connect.  The two pieces are simply connected with a roll pin protruding through the two parts.  Over time, the roll pin can sometimes cut into the opening in the link, and the roll pin will catch as the flipper crank pivots.  The result is a weak flipper or a flipper which does not return to the at rest position.  Using a roll pin punch tool, remove the roll pin, and replace the flipper link / plunger assembly.  Pay close attention when installing the roll pin into the new plunger link.  It is very easy to cut into the link with the roll pin, deeming the new link / plunger worthless.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Flipper Crank Installed Incorrectly&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Reassembling a flipper bat / shoe incorrectly can result in a weak flipper.  Before tightening the two set screws which hold the flipper shaft in place, make certain that the flipper crank is centered equidistant between the upper and lower flipper bushings.  If placed too close to the upper bushing, it will &amp;quot;sandwich&amp;quot; the upper bushing between the crank and bat.  If placed too close to the lower bushing, the crank will have friction between it and the lower bushing.  The end result is a weak flipper or a flipper which does not return to the at rest position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Fouled / Pitted Switch Contacts&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Fouled switch contacts can reduce current, which in turn reduces power / strength.  Make certain that the EOS switch, cabinet switch, and switch pairs on the game over (Q) and tilt (T) relays are all clean and not pitted. Filing the contacts with an ignition file will remedy the problem, provided that the contacts are not heavily pitted.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Bad Connection to Cabinet Switch&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Another problem related to the cabinet switches is the female spade connector used to connect the cabinet wiring to the switch.  These spade connectors can sometimes become sloppy or break.  In most cases, the break is not evident, until the connector is removed and reinstalled on the cabinet switch tab.  The spade connector can be removed and a new one crimped on, or the better solution is to solder the cabinet switch wires to the tabs on the cabinet switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Worn Flipper Plunger&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A mushroomed flipper plunger can create excessive drag within the coil sleeve.  When replacing the plunger / link, replace the coil sleeve and coil stop too.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Coil Stop&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The coil stop &amp;quot;slug&amp;quot; is pressed into the coil stop bracket.  It is somewhat common for the slug to become detached from the coil stop bracket.  The coil stop slug will then be &amp;quot;free floating&amp;quot; within the coil sleeve.  This can create some interesting problems, but the most noticeable are reduction in flipper power, decrease in flipper stroke or both.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Incorrect Flipper Rubber Installed&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® used 3/8&amp;quot; wide rubber on flippers.  It fits perfectly into the groove on the plastic flipper bat.  Everybody else used 1/2&amp;quot; wide rubber, and that tended to get installed on the Gottlieb® games, too.  When a 1/2&amp;quot; wide ring is used, it almost fits, but because of the groove, it will present a funny angle to the ball instead of a flat plane.  The results are either air balls, or the flipper will smack the ball downward into the playfield.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Cracked / Broken Plastic Bat&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes the flipper bat cracks.  Replacements are available.  The screw that holds the plastic flipper bat on the metal shoe is located on the underside of the flipper.  Loosen the two set screws on the flipper crank, and the shoe and bat will come free.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Broken Hold Winding&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Erratic flipper function is defined as a flipper which will not remain in the up (hold) position when activated.  The flipper will move rapidly up and down as if it is &amp;quot;machine gunning&amp;quot;.  This is typically the result from a break in the hold winding right at the flipper coil lug.  One resolution is to locate the broken coil winding (this will be the thinner of the two windings), and unwind one turn from the coil.  This can be accomplished if the side of the winding is not connected to the common lug of the flipper coil.  Note that the power winding cannot be unwound if it breaks.  This is because the power winding is wound on the coil bobbin first, and is located beneath the hold winding.  Once one turn of the hold winding is unwound from the coil, the excess length must be shortened.  After the correct length is determined, the portion of the winding which will be soldered to the coil lug must have its insulation stripped off.  The red or green hue on the coil winding is actually a thin insulation, which is used to keep the winding from shorting to adjacent windings.  Gently scrape the coating off the winding by using an exacto or utility knife, exposing the copper wire of the winding.  Then wrap the uninsulated winding around the coil lug, and solder it.  If a single winding cannot be removed from the existing coil, complete coil replacement is the solution.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Flippers Will not Return to at Rest Position====&lt;br /&gt;
The EOS switch assembly is actuated by the pointed part of the flipper crank assembly.  This is a metal-on-metal contact point.  Due to the design of the flipper crank, it will eventually wear a hole in the EOS actuating blade.  The fix is to replace the EOS switch assembly.  About halfway through the System 80B games (around TX-Sector or so), the EOS switch was slightly relocated, and a modified flipper crank actuates the switch with a roller.  An MA-988 or MA-989 kit can be purchased to perform this upgrade on any System 80/80A/80B game.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As mentioned in the previous section, the flipper link can become cut by the roll pin which secures it to the flipper crank.  This can also cause the flipper to not return to the rest position.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also mentioned in the previous section, the flipper coil stop slug can detach from the coil stop bracket, causing the flipper not to return completely.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the flipper return spring has become stretched or is no longer connected to the flipper crank or coil stop anymore, the flipper will not return properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gtb pbdb new.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Corrected/Modified Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B Pop Bumper Driver Board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pop bumpers on all System 80 / 80A / 80B games are controlled by an under playfield mounted board known as the pop bumper driver board (PBDB). Remote pop bumper driver boards are unique to Gottlieb® System 80 games. No other manufacturer made this design decision. The reason Gottlieb® did this is probably to supplement the number of coil drive circuits as well as to solve the common problem of pop bumpers locking on with subsequent damage to the games components.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each pop bumper has its own board.  Each board provides a consistent, strong pop regardless of how long the spoon switch is activated, and ensures (when working properly) only a single pop per actuation of the spoon switch. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These boards are single-sided construction, where the traces are located only the solder side of the board.  Due to this construction, the solder connections crack easily.  Reflowing the solder of the header pins on any suspect boards is recommended to ensure a good mechanical and electrical connection.  The components should be inspected as well, because they can also have cracked solder connections that will need to be touched up.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the pop bumper fires but does not score, examine the secondary switch on each pop bumper to see if it needs cleaning or adjustment.  This switch is part of the switch matrix, and can be tested by manually pulling the pop bumper rod and ring down to activate it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Updating the Pop Bumper Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb® issued a service bulletin to correct a design error with the PBDB. A great many of these boards were delivered in games prior to correcting the design at the factory. Examine the PBDBs to ensure that they have been updated. See the pictures below, noting the differences. &#039;&#039;&#039;A dead giveaway would be the lack of a jumper to replace CR1.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=150px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;System 80/80A/80B PBDB Before/After Modification&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-UnModifiedPBDB.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Unmodifed PBDB&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Gottlieb-ModifiedPBDB.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Modifed PBDB&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-ModifiedPBDBPartsExplanation.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B PBDB Update]]&lt;br /&gt;
Should your PBDB require update, follow this procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Acquire the following parts&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Cut to length .156 Molex male header pins with locking ramp (you&#039;ll need a 6 pin length)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**47uf/10V electrolytic capacitor (C4)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**4.7uf/10V capacitor (C3, tantalum or electrolytic, may be axial or radial)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Jumper material (use the remaining leg cut from C4 when you install it)&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove CR1, C3, and C4&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Replace the Molex connector or reflow the solder on each header pin&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Install C4 (47uf/10V) with the negative side facing the male header pins&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Use the remaining part of the capacitor leg from C4 as a jumper to replace CR1. Any jumper wire will work...the cap leg is convenient, available, and looks professional when installed nice and straight.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Install C3 (4.7uf/10V), reversing the original polarity so that the positive side faces the jumper just installed and the negative side faces the nearest board edge. Note that C3 may be axial (leads from both ends along the components &amp;quot;axis&amp;quot;) or radial (leads on one end of the component). The board is designed to accept either style.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the large can transistor (2N6057, 2N6059, PMD10K40 or PMD10K60) solder joints are solid and that the bolted end is making good contact with the PCB trace.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Test the large can transistor...&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**DMM set to &amp;quot;diode test&amp;quot;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Black lead on the nut that secures the transistor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**Red lead on each leg of the transistor&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
**A measurement between .5 and .7 should be seen. Readings significantly outside of these ranges indicate a failed transistor which should be replaced.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
*Examine the remaining solder joints on the board to ensure good solid joints and no lifted traces. Note that the trace between the jumper that replaces CR1 and R2 is particularly susceptible to damage and if broken, will cause the associated pop bumper to lock on.&lt;br /&gt;
*Reinstall the PBDB and test.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is an update for the PBDB that gives the board a bit more &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot;. Simply replace R1 (1.5Kohms) with a 10Kohm 1/4W resistor and replace C1 (0.01mfd) with a 1 mfd 100 volt (non polarized) capacitor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, to avoid random, uncommanded pops caused by &amp;quot;noise&amp;quot; on the switch line, you can add an electrolytic capacitor to the solder side of the board. Use a 4.7 mfd 16 volt radial capacitor (both leads on one end). Solder the negative lead of the capacitor to pin 4. Solder the positive lead of the capacitor to pin 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Replacing the 2N6057 with a TIP-102=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:popdrivertip102.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A TIP-102 installed on a Pop Bumper Driver Board (PBDB)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PBDTIP102.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Closer view of a TIP-102 installed on a PBDB]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The 2N6057 used on Gottlieb games is obsolete, so it is hard-to-find and expensive.  A cheap and effective substitute for the 2N6057 as used on the PBDB is a TIP102 transistor.  It&#039;s not the most elegant &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot;, but it works well.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Drop Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Early System 80 / 80A Drop Target Removal====&lt;br /&gt;
For now, please review the drop target removal guide available at [http://www.papinball.com/tips/gottlieb_drop_target_guide2.html PAPinball.com].&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Later System 80B Drop Target Removal==== &lt;br /&gt;
This is a stub&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Vari-Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
The single largest problem with vari-targets is adjusting the spring tension, which returns the vari-target to the at rest position.  The spring can be adjusted by hooking it to one of two screws which hold the spring in place.  In most cases, there is only one screw, but two screw holes are placed 180 degreees from one another within the vari-target frame.  Spring adjustment should be made so that the vari-target barely returns to the home position, when the playfield is upright (resting against the backbox).  Once the playfield is placed in its proper position, gravity will help with the extra &amp;quot;bump&amp;quot; that the vari-target needs to return home.  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, the switch leaves of the vari-target, which &amp;quot;ride&amp;quot; along the rivet board need enough tension to make good solid contact with the rivets. Since it&#039;s impossible to bend the switch leaves closer to the rivet board with the rivet board in place, removal of the vari-target rivet board must be done to make this adjustment.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vari-targets seldom require adjustment as they were correctly adjusted at the factory. It is possible to move parts of the mechanism so that the switch no longer comes to rest on a rivet when the vari-target &amp;quot;gear&amp;quot; is stopped by the reset relay armature.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vari-targets are a rare example of where lubrication helps the operation of the mechanism. A thin film of lithium grease on the rivets helps the switch blade &amp;quot;wipe&amp;quot; cleanly across them. Like [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brylcreem Brylcreem], &amp;quot;a little dab&#039;ll do ya&amp;quot;. Note: That&#039;s humor son...Brylcreem is not a suitable lubricant...for pinball machines. :-)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Roto Target Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
By the time System 80 games first came out, the roto target was a dying assembly.  The believed reason is due to the amount of playfield &amp;quot;real estate&amp;quot; in which it used underneath a playfield.  Circus is the only System 80 game which used the roto target.	 	&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
===Cabinet===&lt;br /&gt;
* Power cable strain relief bushing, 80A games: Heyco 7k-2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Black Hole issues have been moved to the dedicated [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole Black Hole] page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Alien Star Game Start Failure===&lt;br /&gt;
Alien Star has a major fault when running the original 689 code.  For the game to properly start, one ball must be in the trough and one ball in the outhole.  If both balls are located in the trough, only the single trough switch will be closed, and not the outhole switch.  When only the trough switch is closed, the game *thinks* that only one ball is installed, (2 balls total are needed), and will do absolutely nothing.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It has not been verified, but running 689A code may resolve this issue.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Haunted House Upkicker Plastic Tube Mounting Bracket===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Cornell_VR4_cap_bracket.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Mounting bracket for the plastic tube.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The metal mounting bracket that secures the longer plastic upkicker tube to the main playfield breaks its tabs (ears) off allowing the tube to flop around loose. This bracket is actually an electrolytic capacitor mounting bracket for computer grade capacitors. If broken, Mouser Electronics sells this item as part number [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/VR4/?qs=0r35cIPu56HWvTGFwxXK2g%3d%3d 539-VR4]. The OEM part is a VR4, which is manufactured by Cornell-Dublier (Mallory).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Devil&#039;s Dare - All Displays out except status display===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DD Resistor Before.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Burnt 200 Ohm resistor on +60VDC display power line]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DD Resistor After.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Replacement 200 Ohm 2 watt resistor on +60VDC display power line]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If the game in question is a Devil&#039;s Dare, and all of the displays are out except for the status display, and the +60VDC is present at the power supply, but not at the displays, the following may apply.  Some Devil&#039;s Dare games, (it is unknown exactly which ones at this point), have a 200 ohm resistor installed in series with the +60VDC power line for the displays.  The resistor is located on the lamp insert board, just behind the lower right 6 digit display.  The resistor is soldered to two solder eyelets, so replacement is relatively easy.  It is unknown what the purpose of this resistor is, but it is fairly common for the resistor to overheat and potentially fail.  The recommended replacement for this is a 200 ohm 2 watt resistor.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no information regarding the value or placement of this resistor in the Devil&#039;s Dare manual / schematics.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Mars God of War (MGOW) - Background Sound Continues After Game is Over===&lt;br /&gt;
If the background sound continues after the game is over, this may solve the issue.  Even though the manual states that dipswitch 25 on the CPU board is not used, try placing switch 25 in the &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Volcano Kick Back Ends Prematurely ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:VolcanoKickBack.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The Volcano kickback mechanism.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The kickback mechanism in Volcano, once enabled by a playfield feature, remains available until the player uses the feature by pressing the green cabinet button in front of the flipper switch. The game knows that the feature has been used by sensing the switch at the rear of the mechanism. As the plunger pulls in, the normally closed switch is opened by the ring on the rear of the plunger. If this normally closed switch isn&#039;t &amp;quot;making&amp;quot; solidly, the game will think that the plunger has pulled in. The kickback feature will be considered used and hence disabled.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The behavior looks like the feature has timed out prematurely.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Games with Playfield Windows: Black Hole, Haunted House, Genesis, Monte Carlo, etc. ===&lt;br /&gt;
Playfield windows use foam washers that provide &amp;quot;counter force&amp;quot; to help keep the window flush with the playfield. If the window isn&#039;t flush with the playfield, the &amp;quot;lip&amp;quot; of the sunken window in its mount will cause airballs and/or the edge of the playfield will wear excessively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a couple decades, springy foam washers turn into hard, crumbly foam washers.  Weatherstripping (&amp;quot;beer seal&amp;quot;), cut really small, works in a pinch, but the Pinball Resource stocks the proper foam washers (GTB # 21219).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
==== Game Displays 000000 On Power Up and It&#039;s Not The Slam Switch ====&lt;br /&gt;
If you power the game on and all of the displays immediately display all zeros without strobing the problem is usually with the slam switch. However, if the slam switch modification has been done or the slam switch is working properly there is a problem with the switch matrix.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I had this problem on my Haunted House machine. I finally found that chip Z15 (7432) was bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I was fixing a kicker solenoid on the playfield, the playfield was still in the machine and fully in the upright position. While I was soldering the wire to the new solenoid I did not adequately protect the components below from a solder drip. Well, I did have a solder drip that landed right on a pop bumper driver board connector and shorted the connector. The short caused more than just this problem but for this narrative we will restrict to the slam/switch matrix problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reading in other materials I recognized the problem as the slam switch issue. I used a logic probe to test other components and found the CPU board working, mostly as it should except for acting like the machine was slam tilted. There was little written about the problem outside of the slam switch. I decided to check the matrix by doing a diode check on all of the diodes in the switch matrix. When I did this, I found that many of the diodes were testing bad. These were being tested with the board removed from the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Having replacement diodes in my parts drawer I decided that these must have gone bad during the short. I began unsoldering a few of the diodes. Once disconnected from the circuit board I remeasured the removed diodes and found the correct values on my meter, they were not bad. I then noticed that the bad diodes were all in the same row on the switch matrix. They all traced back to the Z15 chip. I replaced the Z15 7432 and the problem was resolved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Game Displays a single 0 or 1 on Displays====&lt;br /&gt;
If an 80A game does not boot and displays just a single zero, just a single 1, or alternates between a single zero and single 1, this may indicate one or more bad IC(s) on the MPU:&lt;br /&gt;
* CPU&lt;br /&gt;
* Z7&lt;br /&gt;
* Z8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The CPU itself may still output data that can be picked up with a logic probe, but still might be bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-sys80a-bad-cpu-display-symptom.gif|thumb|200px|left|Animation of symptom of alternating 0 and 1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gottlieb-sys80a-bad-cpu-display-symptom-zeros.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Symptom of the displays showing a single zero]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=&amp;quot;all&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Testing the Q relay ====&lt;br /&gt;
Had a problem with my Black Hole - Q relay didn&#039;t activate. Played a bit with wires, did ground mods, .. &lt;br /&gt;
After a while I noticed it did work but didn&#039;t stay enabled - at the start of a game it closed, 1 coil (ball drain) kicked and the Q relay deactivated again. Noticed this with the playfield in up position, no pinballs installed.&lt;br /&gt;
Finally tested with playfield down - and pinballs installed - suddenly the behaviour was different: ball drain coil kicked and then the next coil also that put a coil in the shooter lane. Seems the Q relay did work all this time, but will only stay enabled when pinballs are installed in the game ?!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Results of a locked on coil ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurntCoil1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Melted coil sleeve]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BurntCoil2.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Burnt paper]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
If a coil locks on (due for example to a bad driver board transistor), the coil will burn. Here is a coil which had locked on. Note the burn marks on the paper wrapping and the melted coil sleeve, which prevented the coil plunger from moving through the coil. The resistance of this coil was 0.9 ohms (the specified resistance for this particular coil should be 3.35 ohms), also indicating it&#039;s bad due to an internal short (adjacent windings shorted together due to overheating the coil wire insulation).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Black Hole top rollover switches ====&lt;br /&gt;
When Black Hole serves a ball, it must go through the top rollovers before hitting any other switch.  The playfield design ensures this.  But if it doesn&#039;t (I had the glass off and started testing some other feature), things get very weird: suddenly, I seemed to be in a 3-ball, 4-player game with some of the score displays blank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This isn&#039;t usually a problem in practice but it is worth making sure that the three top rollovers have clean switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replacing the 80B 5V pot ====&lt;br /&gt;
I got a Monte Carlo and replaced the 5V adjustment pot on the regulator.  It was working fine.  After the old one had been chopped off, I discovered it was the same as the new one.  It had already been replaced!  A bunch of rework on the regulator, and ground mods on the transformer frame, should have been my clue.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 80B sound doesn&#039;t work ====&lt;br /&gt;
I got a Spring Break and the sound didn&#039;t work.  The LED didn&#039;t light in any predictable way, and the game put out a lot of white noise.  At one point I thought I heard some sounds underneath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fortunately, I had a Monte Carlo sitting next to it where the sound did work.  I spent some time trying to understand the problem, and finally just swapped all the socketed chips (three EPROMs and the &amp;quot;Orator&amp;quot; speech synthesizer).  The problem followed the EPROMs, not the board.  Ultimately I replaced all three ROMs, although it seems likely that only one was likely bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the sound board has two separate CPUs, and only one controls the LED, so it is likely one of the two EPROMs associated with that CPU that is actually bad.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Two flash lamp problems ====&lt;br /&gt;
Monte Carlo has four pairs of flashers controlled by &amp;quot;lamp&amp;quot; drive transistors, stepped up by under-playfield transistors.  On my game, I had two unrelated problems with different flash banks.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two sockets by the roulette wheel were missing their lamps, and the under playfield was a little burned near where the lamps had been.  Apparently they were locked on, and someone had pulled the bulbs rather than fix the problem.  I replaced Q17, which was out of spec according to the measurements on this page.  I didn&#039;t replace the under-playfield MJ2955 because it seemed to measure correctly.  One down, one to go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The other flasher, the two on the left side, just didn&#039;t work.  Lamp bulbs were fine, and all transistors seemed OK by the tests given above.  I checked for continuity in the wiring and even tried grounding the transistor side of the circuit, but no lamps lit.  Finally, I pulled the plastic off to take the bulb out (to measure at the socket) and I found that the two lugs of the socket were bent and touching!  So the lamp was a short, but because of the resistor, not short enough to blow the fuse or fry the transistor.  A little bending back seems to have fixed it. -- [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] ([[User talk:Ts4z|talk]]) 16:29, 7 February 2014 (CST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== 80B Display has garbage on one display glass ====&lt;br /&gt;
Chicago Cubs had garbage/nonsensical characters on just the lower score display. I found chip U2 (type 10939) which controls the lower display to be bad. Replacing the chip cured the problem. I also installed a 40 pin IC socket for the replacement chip. If by chance you encounter the same symptom except that it is on the upper display, then chip U1 (type 10939) is bad. U1 controls the upper score display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Rebuilt 80/80A Power supply, solenoid fuse blows on power up====&lt;br /&gt;
If a System 80/80A power supply has been rebuilt and the solenoid fuse blows as soon as the game is turned on, take a look at the power supply capacitor at C1. It might have been installed in the wrong direction. Make sure the (-)side on the capacitor matches the (-) side notated on the PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Haunted House ten thousand digit out on several displays ====&lt;br /&gt;
Encountered the ten thousand digits missing on three displays: player 1, player 3, and bonus display. Tried several known good cpu boards and problem remained. Tried swapping displays and problem remained. I traced the problem to the wiring harness on the main playfield. At the playfield mounted transistor Q2, the transistor mounting bracket had cut into the wiring harness. I repaired the harness with electrical tape and routed the harness farther away from that bracket with a couple of wire ties. Problem fixed and all displays are now working correctly.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Burning_EPROMS&amp;diff=20422</id>
		<title>Burning EPROMS</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Burning_EPROMS&amp;diff=20422"/>
		<updated>2020-09-16T00:56:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: Added link for more info on Pocket Programmer&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Pinball machines use three types of programmable devices. By far the most common are EPROMs, used to store code, sounds and graphics for solid state machines. The erasable versions can be erased and re-used many times. Early machines use bipolar PROMs, devices that can be programmed only once. Many machines use programmable logic with simpler devices (PALs and GALs) replacing a handful of TTL chips, and more complex devices carrying most of a video or sound subsystem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For most people, programmers capable of handling mainstream EPROMs (2732 (32kb) - 27C080 (8Mb)) are sufficient. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==EPROM Burners &amp;amp; Erasers==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Willem Programmers&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These programmers are the least expensive available. They all run using open-source software. The USB version will need a separate 9v power adapter to burn 27xx EPROMs.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Recommended: True USB version GQ-4X, or GQ-4X V4 (GQ-4X4), about $80 - $120&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Pocket Programmer&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Designed and built in the U.S., these devices have been the standard for the industry. Programs 2708 with an adapter.  For more info and to order, click [https://xtronics.com/wiki/Pocket_Programmer.html HERE].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Recommended: USB version, about $270&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Wellon Programmers&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Designed and made in China,these devices use programmable pin drivers rather than TTL to program the parts. This approach means that Wellons can program a wider range of devices than other programmers, including PALs and GALs used in the logic of many modern machines. This is a preferred device because of its flexibility and up-to-date software and drivers (Windows 7 64 is supported). &lt;br /&gt;
  &lt;br /&gt;
Recommended: VP280, $120&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Conitec programmers&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Conitec has some very good programmers and their software is very clear and stable. Software upgrades are free as long as the programmer is supported by the newest software version. Conitec programmers support a lot of EPROM&#039;s (and other programmables). If needed you can request Conitec to add a device to the list. Their programmers aren&#039;t cheap but the programmer and software quality are excellent.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Recommended: Galep-5, USB, up to 48-pins devices, $499&lt;br /&gt;
Recommended: Galep-4, parallel port, up to 40-pins devices, $399&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Batronix programmers&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Batronix programmers have a good name, the software works well and is stable. Their broad range starts with some low-cost affordable programmers and extends to models that can program 8 EPROM&#039;s at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Recommended: BX32 Batupo, USB, up to 32-pins devices, $152&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Elnec programmers&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Elnec has very good programmers and software but they are actually quite expensive and therefore more suitable for production use. If you can get your hands on a used one for a reasonable price you&#039;ll have a great programmer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Minipro programmers&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the low end is a super-inexpensive programmer that costs about $40 on ebay.  It does not burn anything below a 2732 nor can it program 2532&#039;s without an adapter.  The maximum programming voltage is 21 volts, and the software is a bit confusing to use.  However, it does work and is very convenient as it just plugs into a USB port.  The software works on windows 10 as well.  The version tested is the TL866CS.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the newest model is the TL866II Plus.  It has a maximum programming voltage of 18 volts, so it cannot be used to program many of the EPROMs such as 2532A and 2732A.  If purchasing this inexpensive programmer, look for the older TL866A or TL866CS models.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are significantly more expensive systems available that can program a full range of devices. However, these are unnecessary for most people, and the new low-cost programmers are just fine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== EPROMS ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
EPROMs are an obsolete technology but were the standard for embedded code and data from the mid-1970s until the emergence of flash memory. They made sophisticated pinball systems possible, providing digital storage for code, sound and graphics. They work by injecting electrons into a charge storage area using a relatively high voltage. EPROM programmers must generate these voltages, which is why some early devices are not supported by all programmers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 2 types of EPROM&#039;s available, OTP and UV. OTP means &amp;quot;One Time Programmable&amp;quot; and as the name suggests these can only be programmed once as they can not be erased. UV types have a window on top of the chip, this windows is made of quartz glass and below the window is the actual chip. When the chip is exposed to short-wave UV light for a specified amount of time (see device&#039;s datasheet) all the data will be erased and the device can be programmed again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===8-bit vs 16-bit EPROM&#039;s===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Without going too much into the details it&#039;s good to know that generally you will need 8-bit devices and NOT the 16-bit devices. They can be distinguished by the model number as well as the number of pins. In the list below are common model numbers of 8-bit EPROM&#039;s. For EPROM&#039;s in DIP packages; 8 bit EPROM&#039;s have 24, 28 or 32 pins whilst 16-bit devices have 42-pins. Other packages like surface mounted for instance are available but you will need the DIP versions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===EPROM part numbers===&lt;br /&gt;
The part number of an EPROM contains information about the manufacturer, capacity and access time along with some other information like the operating temperature range and package type. When selecting an EPROM it is important to have the right capacity and access time; the access time can be lower than needed but should not be higher.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part number example and break-down:&lt;br /&gt;
M27C4001-10F1 is a common model number and here&#039;s the break-down of the part number:&lt;br /&gt;
-Letter(s) at the start for the manufacturer: M = ST Microelectronics (other examples are TMS for Texas Instruments and AM for AMD)&lt;br /&gt;
-Numbers after the first letter(s) for the device type: 27 = EPROM&lt;br /&gt;
-Letter for the supply voltage: C = 5V&lt;br /&gt;
-Numbers for the capacity and memory organization: 4001 = 4Mbit, 512kb x 8 (the 8 means it&#039;s an 8-bit device)&lt;br /&gt;
-Numbers after the &amp;quot;-&amp;quot; for the access time: 10 means 100ns (12 for 120ns, 90 for 90ns and 80 for 80ns are also quite common)&lt;br /&gt;
-Letter for the package: F means FDIP32W and that&#039;s a package with an erasing window (B would mean PDIP32 and would be an OTP version)&lt;br /&gt;
-number for the temperature range: 1 means 0 to 70°C which is common&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that some model numbers may contain extra letters containing more specifications.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To determine which EPROM will be needed to accommodate a ROM file, use the file size (in Kilobytes or Megabytes) and multiply it by 8. Since bits are a smaller data unit and there are 8 bits in a byte, the number of bits will be larger. For example, if a ROM file is 8 KB (Kilobytes), 8KB x 8 = 64 Kilobits; which means a 2764 EPROM would be needed to accommodate a ROM file of 8 KB in size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Common part numbers in the 8kb to 8Mb range (without all the descriptive letters and numbers):&lt;br /&gt;
{|class=wikitable&lt;br /&gt;
!EPROM&lt;br /&gt;
!Bits&lt;br /&gt;
!Bytes&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|2516 || 16 Kbits || 2 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|2532 || 32 Kbits || 4 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|2708 || 8 Kbits || 1 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|2716 || 16 Kbits || 2 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|2732 || 32 Kbits || 4 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|2764 || 64 Kbits || 8 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|27128 || 128 Kbits || 16 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|27256 || 256 Kbits || 32 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|27512 || 512 Kbits || 64 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|27C010, 27C1000, 27C1001 || 1 Mbit || 128 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|27C020, 27C2001 || 2 Mbits || 256 KB  &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|27C040, 27C4001 || 4 Mbits || 512 KB &lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
|27C080, 27C801 || 8 Mbits || 1 MB &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model numbers ending in 02 like 27C1002, 27C2002, 27C4002 and 27C802 are 16-bit EPROMs, instead of 8-bit EPROMs. 16-bit EPROMs are not used in pinball machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Buying EPROMS===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
New EPROMS are very rare, but &amp;quot;pulls&amp;quot; - used EPROMs taken from obsolete electronic devices - are regularly available on eBay or from online sellers. The best pulls have been erased, tested, have had labels and residue removed, and their legs straightened. Expect to pay a little more for this service. Almost all of the new EPROM&#039;s available nowadays (2011) are from ST microelectronics and start with part number M. Availability ranges from 256k to 8M. Smaller capacities from 8k up to 128k are rarely available new but can be bought as pulls. Always check the supported devices list of your programmer before you buy EPROM&#039;s as a single letter or number difference can cause your programmer to refuse programming them.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
EPROMs can be obtained from [http://www.epromman.com/ epromman.com], [http://jameco.com jameco.com], ebay, and various other pinball vendors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Erasing EPROMS===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You don&#039;t have to have an EPROM eraser. But they are helpful if you need to erase some pulls that were not cleaned, programmed the wrong code, or want to recycle some parts. EPROM erasers use a short wavelength UV light to neutralize the charges stored in the EPROM cells. Cheap ones capable of doing a few EPROMS at a time are available for about $20. Much bigger erasers - used - pop up on eBay for about $50.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Using EPROMS===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Certain EPROM images can be &#039;doubled-up&#039; (example: a 2716 is needed, but only a 2732 is available  - the 2716 image cane be burned into both halves of the 2732 and it will work) if stock is not available or the burner can&#039;t use them (a 2708 image is a typical example).  Additionally it is possible to use many different types of EPROMs on boards either utilizing adapters or creative wiring.  For examples, see:&lt;br /&gt;
[https://sites.google.com/site/allentownpinball/romblaster Romblaster], [http://warpzonearcade.com/?p=402 Warp Zone 27256 on a Bally board], [http://warpzonearcade.com/?p=580 Warp Zone 2764 on a Bally board], [http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_softnine.html 27256 on Stern mpu200], [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre%27s_Repair_Articles Leon&#039;s methods for various eproms in various boards], [http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=50&amp;amp;controller=product&amp;amp;id_lang=1 Adapter for Williams system 6 to 2764]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As can be seen on the various pages, game code is not limited to specific EPROMs as long as the correct address, data line, and selection signals can be properly mapped to the EPROM chip.  Be aware that many online vendors of licensed pinball roms are not permitted to change the type of chip specified (at least folding smaller sizes into bigger ones) due to licensing restrictions.  This may have to be done by the individual by following directions at the various links depending on the system.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page/Navigation&amp;diff=20414</id>
		<title>Main Page/Navigation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page/Navigation&amp;diff=20414"/>
		<updated>2020-09-14T01:02:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&amp;lt;div style=&amp;quot;margin: -.3em -1em -1em -1em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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|- align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot; bgcolor=&amp;quot;#e7eef6&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
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! width=&amp;quot;30%&amp;quot; | &#039;&#039;&#039;Resources&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
! width=&amp;quot;30%&amp;quot; | &#039;&#039;&#039;General&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
! width=&amp;quot;1%&amp;quot; | &#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;div style=&amp;quot;font-size:85%;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span class=&amp;quot;plainlinks&amp;quot;&amp;gt;[http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page/Navigation&amp;amp;action=edit edit]&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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*[[Beginner&#039;s Notes|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Pinball Beginners Start Here&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
*[[General|&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General for All Games&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
*[[EM Repair| EM Games (Electromechanical)]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Common Solid State Games&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Bally/Stern Electronics Repair Guides| &#039;&#039;&#039;Bally/Stern (classic)&#039;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Bally/Stern|1977-1985 Bally/Stern Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Bally 6803|1985-1989 Bally 6803 Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Data East/Sega/Stern Pinball Repair Guides| &#039;&#039;&#039;Data East/Sega/Stern (modern)&#039;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Data East/Sega|1987-1995 Data East/Sega Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Sega/Stern White Star Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Stern S.A.M. System Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Stern SPIKE™ System Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Gottlieb Pinball Repair Guides|&#039;&#039;&#039;Gottlieb&#039;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Gottlieb System 1|1977-1980 Gottlieb® System 1]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Gottlieb System 80|1980-1989 Gottlieb® System 80/80A/80B]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Gottlieb System 3|1989-1996 Gottlieb® System 3]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Williams Pinball Repair Guides|&#039;&#039;&#039;Williams and Bally/Williams&#039;&#039;&#039;]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Williams System 3 - 7|1977 - 1984 Williams System 3 - System 7]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Williams System 8|1984 Williams System 8 (Pennant Fever and Still Crazy)]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Williams System 9 - 11|1985 - 1990 Williams System 9 and System 11]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Williams WPC|1990 - 1999 Williams WPC System]]&lt;br /&gt;
***[[Pinball 2000 Repair|1999 Williams Pinball 2000 System]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Less Common Solid State Games&lt;br /&gt;
**[[ALI/Fascination Repair|Allied Leisure / Fascination]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Alvin G. Repair Guide|Alvin G.]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[American Pinball]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Atari Repair|Atari]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Capcom Repair|Capcom]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Chicago Gaming Company]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Gameplan Repair|Gameplan]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Heighway Pinball Repair|Heighway Pinball]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Jersey Jack Repair Guides|Jersey Jack]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Jeutel|Jeutel Pinball]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Multimorphic Repair Guides|Multimorphic]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Rotating Cocktail Pinball Games]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Spooky Pinball Repair|Spooky Pinball]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Unidesa/Cirsa/Stargame]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Viza Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Zaccaria Repair Guides|Zaccaria]]&lt;br /&gt;
**[[Home Model Pinballs | Home (non coin op) Pinballs]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Other Than Pinball Games | Other Than Pinball Games]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Information&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Game Abbreviations | Those Pesky Game Abbreviations]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[What is a Pinball Machine Worth?]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Vehicles for Moving Pinball Machines]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Post-Purchase Checklist | The Post-Purchase Checklist; What to do After Buying a Game]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Online Pinball Communities]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Parts Information&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Rubber and Rubber Kits]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Dying Your Own Pinball Plastic Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Pinball Parts Suppliers]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[General#Glass_Sizes|Playfield/Backglass Glass Sizes]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Coinbox/Cashbox Identification Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Lockdown Bar Identification Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Pinball Leg Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;General Repair, Diagnostic, Tools, and Supplies Information&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[General#Tools_of_the_Trade| Tools for Pinball Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[General#Recommended_Supplies|Cleaning &amp;amp; Restoration Supplies]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Pinball Restoration]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Pinball Board Repair Services]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Basic electronic parts knowledge|The Basics of Electronic Parts &amp;amp; Components]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Pinball Part Datasheets]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Burning EPROMS|Burning EPROMs]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Add/Enable Free Play]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[MPU Battery Replacement Options | MPU Battery Replacement Options (NVRAM, Capacitors, etc)]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Pinball Test Fixtures | Test Fixtures &amp;amp; Diagnostic Tools]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Leon Borre&#039;s Repair Articles | Leon&#039;s Repair Articles (archived)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Quick Links for Repair Information&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[General#Logic_Probes | Using a Logic Probe]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Williams_WPC#Game_resets | WPC Resets]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems | WPC GI Problems]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Williams_WPC#Testing_DMD_Controller_Power | Testing WPC Display Power ]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Bally/Stern#Jumper.2FROM_Info | Bally/Stern MPU Jumpers]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Updates_and_Repairs_for_the_System_80.2F80A_Power_Supply_Board | System 80 Power Supply Rehab]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Common Flipper Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Help:Contents|Wiki Formatting Tips]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[FAQ - The Questions That Get Asked on RGP Every Week]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Glossary|Glossary Of Pinball Terms]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[History|The Evolution of Pinball]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[:Category:People|People]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Tournaments]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Leagues]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Where To Play]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Pinball Related Links]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[2020 Pinball Show Schedule|&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2020 Pinball Show Schedule&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[2021 Pinball Show Schedule|&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;2021 Pinball Show Schedule&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Special:Contact|&amp;lt;font color=Green&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Contact Page&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/font&amp;gt;]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Image:donate.png|250px|link=Donations]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20413</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20413"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T07:18:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || 2019-08-08* || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || *Not yet officially released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03-20 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the boards used in the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; platform and the upper playfield modules:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-ROC ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2018/11/PD-LED-3_rev3-1.LLD_.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20412</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20412"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T07:09:07Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || Not yet officially released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the boards used in the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; platform and the upper playfield modules:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-ROC ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2018/11/PD-LED-3_rev3-1.LLD_.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20411</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20411"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T07:04:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Documentation */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexi Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || Not yet officially released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the boards used in the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; platform and the upper playfield modules:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;-ROC ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2018/11/PD-LED-3_rev3-1.LLD_.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20410</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20410"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T06:54:48Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Documentation */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexi Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || Not yet officially released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the boards used in the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; platform and the upper playfield modules:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* P3-ROC ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/p3-roc_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* SW-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/SW-16-2_LLD_v2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-16 ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2017/07/Power-Driver-16_2_LLD_2-0.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
* PD-LED ([https://www.multimorphic.com/content/uploads/2018/11/PD-LED-3_rev3-1.LLD_.pdf spec])&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20409</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20409"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T06:47:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexi Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || Not yet officially released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20408</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20408"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T06:22:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || Coming soon (currently in Beta)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexi Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20407</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20407"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T06:20:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || Coming soon (currently in Beta)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || 2019-03-18 || Sfw || Lexi Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20406</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20406"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T03:19:59Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */  added some more specific date info&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017-07 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017-07 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018-06 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020-03 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || Coming soon (currently in Beta)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || 2019-01 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || || Sfw || Lexi Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 2020-09-04 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20405</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20405"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T02:58:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */ added info on Quest for Glory&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || Coming soon (currently in Beta)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || || Sfw || Lexi Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 9/4/2020 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/p3-game-so-you-want-to-be-a-hero-quest-for-glory-pinball Quest for Glory] || || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || 3rd-Party || Not yet released&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20404</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20404"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T02:51:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */  corrected availability of Heads Up!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM || Coming soon (currently in Beta)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || || Sfw || Lexi Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 9/4/2020 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20403</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20403"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T02:48:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Game List */ corrected names for the LL games&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed - Escape from Earth] || 2017 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed - Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || || Sfw || Lexi Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 9/4/2020 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20402</id>
		<title>Multimorphic Repair Guides</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Multimorphic_Repair_Guides&amp;diff=20402"/>
		<updated>2020-09-13T02:47:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Diz: /* Problems &amp;amp; Fixes */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;For history of Multimorphic see [[Multimorphic]].&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game List==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Title&lt;br /&gt;
!Date of Release&lt;br /&gt;
!Game Type&lt;br /&gt;
!Playfield Module Required&lt;br /&gt;
!Origin&lt;br /&gt;
!Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6449 Lexy Lightspeed Escape from Earth] || 2017 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6453 Lexy Lightspeed Escape Secret Agent Showdown] || 2017 || Sfw || Lexy Lightspeed || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6450 Cannon Lagoon] || 2017 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6451 ROCs] || 2017 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6452 Barnyard] || 2017 || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6665 Cosmic Cart Racing] || 2018 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6667 Heist] || 2020 || Hdw &amp;amp; Sfw || Heist || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/multimorphic-game-kits/heads-up/ Heads Up!] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || OEM ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/grand-slam-rally/ Grand Slam Rally] || || Sfw || Cannon Lagoon || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/hoopin-it-up/ Hoopin&#039; It Up] || || Sfw || Lexi Lightspeed || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/ranger-in-the-ruins/ Ranger in the Ruins] || 9/4/2020 || Sfw || Cosmic Cart Racing || 3rd-Party ||&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Boardset Information==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Operation &amp;amp; Theory==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems &amp;amp; Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best reference source for information on potential problems and fixes for the P&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt; is [https://www.multimorphic.com/support Multimorphic&#039;s support website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More is t.b.s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Parts Substitutions &amp;amp; Replacements==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
t.b.s.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Diz</name></author>
	</entry>
</feed>