PinWiki - User contributions [en]

Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Guide

2012-06-18T18:47:25Z

Loupz:

=== Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Out Guide ===

Date: December 3, 2004.

A few notes about getting started. I find that it's easiest for me to just
get a bunch of paper cups, write the name of the playfield part I'm working
with on the paper cup and then throw all the screws and nuts into that cup.
I find that if I have a cup for say the sling shot plastics, when I go to
reassemble it's pretty easy to deduce what goes where.
Pictures are always a big help.
Also, whenever possible put the screw or nut back into the part
it came out of.

And take plenty of pictures. If you have a digital camera, go overboard,
you can always delete them after things are back together.

And lastly, I found this a rather easy pin to shop. Things come a part in
logical manner; everything you need to remove has connectors (except for
the pop bumpers). There are no big surprises and the order is not that critical.

=== Parts to have on hand ===

* Replacement plastics if you can get them. The skull plastics are usually broken.
* Bulbs - thirty or so #44 or #47, twenty #555, and a few #89 flashers
* Rubber ring kit - see chart at end
* Replacements for anything that is obviously broken, pop bumpers, for example.

=== Starting pictures: ===

[[File:T2-before-1.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-2.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-3.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-4.jpg|500px|border]]

=== Start here ===

# Remove 3 balls.
# Raise playfield and disconnect wires to ramps (basically any wire running though a hole to the top of the playfield). Make sure all wires can come up through the holes without any encumbrances. Label connectors so they will be easier to reconnect. I use a sharpie permanent ink pen and use the letters of the alphabet - a,b,c...
# Lower playfield and remove the plastic with a skull on it in the upper left corner of the playfield on metal ramp - has 4 hex head sheet metal screws 3/8"
# Remove Hunter-Killer Ship plastic, if you have one. You can get repro H-K ships from http://www.bayareaamusements.com. Remove metal guide over the 5 white targets - machine screws with washers holds it and the H-K ship wire.
# Remove left habittrail - has nylock over topside of slingshot plastic and 1/2 inch screw with self washer.
# Remove plastics on the left side of the playfield [[File:T2-upper-right.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-upper-right2.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove switch from right habittrail above right pop bumper. Put screws back in switch for safe keeping.
# Remove right habittrail, nylock nut. Clear plastic over mounting bracket behind 3 red targets. 6-32 machine screw 3/4" with star washer and regular washer.
# Remove left slingshot plastic.
# Remove right slingshot plastic.
# Remove lite kickback plastic and the gate for the ball shooter lane.
# Remove right ramp with "skynet command center" on it.
# Remove pop bumper caps.
# Remove plastic under ramp to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove metal shield in front of lower pop bumper – 2 nylock nuts
# Remove plastic at end of shooter lane.
# Remove playfield from holding pins and pull forward for access to parts in the very back.
# Remove left metal ramp.
# Remove ball gate behind the single drop target. [[File:T2-skull1.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-skull2.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove plastics around skull and lift out the skull assembly. The habittrail that goes to the cannon needs to be removed at this time because the skull goes through it. The screws that hold the VUK end are obscured by the skull, so move the skull out of the way, remove the screws and lift it and the skull out. [[File:T2-upper-back.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-upper-right-stripped.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove plastic in back of canon
# Remove plastic from left corner.
# Remove plastic from right corner.
# Remove plastic to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove cannon mounting by pulling the 1/2 inch e-clip and unplugging the harness, the gun will lift right off of the playfield. Remove the bushing and plate below it 4 phillips head screws and four 3/16 inch nuts below the playfield.
# Remove star posts. '''Note:''' the right rear star post has a ball gate that goes to the metal guide and post for ramp on it. And the post in front of it has clear plastic ball trap protector.
# Remove metal ball guides in rear. '''NOTE:''' Metal plate behind saucer at rear of lane guides has side rail wood screw in middle of two hex head screws. [[File:T2-stripped.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-posts-complete.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove rubber rings and rubber posts.

=== Hardware ===

Light bulbs - 35 #44 (or 47's) and 11 #89's on playfield.
Shipped with White rings and Black flipper rings

 
{| class="wikitable"
|+ '''Terminator 2 Rubber Ring List'
| Rings - Inside Diameter || Quantity
|-
|align="center"|3/16 ||align="center"| 2
|-
|align="center"|5/16 ||align="center"| 13
|-
|align="center"|3/4 ||align="center"| 6
|-
|align="center"|1 ||align="center"| 4
|-
|align="center"|1-1/4||align="center"| 2
|-
|align="center"|2 ||align="center"| 4
|-
|align="center"|2=1/2 ||align="center"| 2
|-
|align="center"|Flipper (std 1-1/2 blk) ||align="center"| 2
|-
|align="center"|Rubber Sleeve (black) ||align="center"| 15
|-
|align="center"|Minipost-sdd 27/64 ||align="center"| 2
|}

Changes from manual - lots - black sleeves, mini rubber for post between flippers and
one at top right of upper bumper. And the one inch rings should be doubled (one on
top of the other).

To reassemble follow these steps backwards.

As you assembly the ramps, make sure you run wires under the playfield
before you put the ramp in place.

It's also a good idea to run a lamp test once you've replaced all the
lamps and before you start putting everything back.

Good luck - end of guide.

Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Guide

2012-06-18T18:41:40Z

Loupz:

=== Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Out Guide ===

Date: December 3, 2004.

A few notes about getting started. I find that it's easiest for me to just
get a bunch of paper cups, write the name of the playfield part I'm working
with on the paper cup and then throw all the screws and nuts into that cup.
I find that if I have a cup for say the sling shot plastics, when I go to
reassemble it's pretty easy to deduce what goes where.
Pictures are always a big help.
Also, whenever possible put the screw or nut back into the part
it came out of.

And take plenty of pictures. If you have a digital camera, go overboard,
you can always delete them after things are back together.

And lastly, I found this a rather easy pin to shop. Things come a part in
logical manner; everything you need to remove has connectors (except for
the pop bumpers). There are no big surprises and the order is not that critical.

=== Parts to have on hand ===

* Replacement plastics if you can get them. The skull plastics are usually broken.
* Bulbs - thirty or so #44 or #47, twenty #555, and a few #89 flashers
* Rubber ring kit - see chart at end
* Replacements for anything that is obviously broken, pop bumpers, for example.

=== Starting pictures: ===

[[File:T2-before-1.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-2.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-3.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-4.jpg|500px|border]]

=== Start here ===

# Remove 3 balls.
# Raise playfield and disconnect wires to ramps (basically any wire running though a hole to the top of the playfield). Make sure all wires can come up through the holes without any encumbrances. Label connectors so they will be easier to reconnect. I use a sharpie permanent ink pen and use the letters of the alphabet - a,b,c...
# Lower playfield and remove the plastic with a skull on it in the upper left corner of the playfield on metal ramp - has 4 hex head sheet metal screws 3/8"
# Remove Hunter-Killer Ship plastic, if you have one. You can get repro H-K ships from http://www.bayareaamusements.com. Remove metal guide over the 5 white targets - machine screws with washers holds it and the H-K ship wire.
# Remove left habittrail - has nylock over topside of slingshot plastic and 1/2 inch screw with self washer.
# Remove plastics on the left side of the playfield [[File:T2-upper-right.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-upper-right2.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove switch from right habittrail above right pop bumper. Put screws back in switch for safe keeping.
# Remove right habittrail, nylock nut. Clear plastic over mounting bracket behind 3 red targets. 6-32 machine screw 3/4" with star washer and regular washer.
# Remove left slingshot plastic.
# Remove right slingshot plastic.
# Remove lite kickback plastic and the gate for the ball shooter lane.
# Remove right ramp with "skynet command center" on it.
# Remove pop bumper caps.
# Remove plastic under ramp to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove metal shield in front of lower pop bumper – 2 nylock nuts
# Remove plastic at end of shooter lane.
# Remove playfield from holding pins and pull forward for access to parts in the very back.
# Remove left metal ramp.
# Remove ball gate behind the single drop target. [[File:T2-skull1.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-skull2.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove plastics around skull and lift out the skull assembly. The habittrail that goes to the cannon needs to be removed at this time because the skull goes through it. The screws that hold the VUK end are obscured by the skull, so move the skull out of the way, remove the screws and lift it and the skull out. [[File:T2-upper-back.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-upper-right-stripped.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove plastic in back of canon
# Remove plastic from left corner.
# Remove plastic from right corner.
# Remove plastic to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove cannon mounting by pulling the 1/2 inch e-clip and unplugging the harness, the gun will lift right off of the playfield. Remove the bushing and plate below it 4 phillips head screws and four 3/16 inch nuts below the playfield.
# Remove star posts. '''Note:''' the right rear star post has a ball gate that goes to the metal guide and post for ramp on it. And the post in front of it has clear plastic ball trap protector.
# Remove metal ball guides in rear. '''NOTE:''' Metal plate behind saucer at rear of lane guides has side rail wood screw in middle of two hex head screws. [[File:T2-stripped.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-posts-complete.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove rubber rings and rubber posts.

=== Hardware ===

Light bulbs - 35 #44 (or 47's) and 11 #89's on playfield.
Shipped with White rings and Black flipper rings
<table border="border">
Rings - Inside Diameter   </th><th>   Quantity  

3/16 </th><th> 2
5/16 </th><th> 13
3/4 </th><th> 6
1 </th><th> 4
1-1/4 </th><th> 2
2 </th><th> 4
2-1/2 </th><th> 2
Flipper (std 1-1/2) (blk) 3
Rubber Sleeve (black) 15
Minipost-sdt 27/64 2

Total Per Game 53

Changes from manual - lots - black sleeves, mini rubber for post between flippers and
one at top right of upper bumper. And the one inch rings should be doubled (one on
top of the other).

To reassemble follow these steps backwards.

As you assembly the ramps, make sure you run wires under the playfield
before you put the ramp in place.

It's also a good idea to run a lamp test once you've replaced all the
lamps and before you start putting everything back.

Good luck - end of guide.

Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Guide

2012-06-18T18:39:10Z

Loupz:

=== Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Out Guide ===

Date: December 3, 2004.

A few notes about getting started. I find that it's easiest for me to just
get a bunch of paper cups, write the name of the playfield part I'm working
with on the paper cup and then throw all the screws and nuts into that cup.
I find that if I have a cup for say the sling shot plastics, when I go to
reassemble it's pretty easy to deduce what goes where.
Pictures are always a big help.
Also, whenever possible put the screw or nut back into the part
it came out of.

And take plenty of pictures. If you have a digital camera, go overboard,
you can always delete them after things are back together.

And lastly, I found this a rather easy pin to shop. Things come a part in
logical manner; everything you need to remove has connectors (except for
the pop bumpers). There are no big surprises and the order is not that critical.

=== Parts to have on hand ===

* Replacement plastics if you can get them. The skull plastics are usually broken.
* Bulbs - thirty or so #44 or #47, twenty #555, and a few #89 flashers
* Rubber ring kit - see chart at end
* Replacements for anything that is obviously broken, pop bumpers, for example.

=== Starting pictures: ===

[[File:T2-before-1.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-2.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-3.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-4.jpg|500px|border]]

=== Start here ===

# Remove 3 balls.
# Raise playfield and disconnect wires to ramps (basically any wire running though a hole to the top of the playfield). Make sure all wires can come up through the holes without any encumbrances. Label connectors so they will be easier to reconnect. I use a sharpie permanent ink pen and use the letters of the alphabet - a,b,c...
# Lower playfield and remove the plastic with a skull on it in the upper left corner of the playfield on metal ramp - has 4 hex head sheet metal screws 3/8"
# Remove Hunter-Killer Ship plastic, if you have one. You can get repro H-K ships from http://www.bayareaamusements.com. Remove metal guide over the 5 white targets - machine screws with washers holds it and the H-K ship wire.
# Remove left habittrail - has nylock over topside of slingshot plastic and 1/2 inch screw with self washer.
# Remove plastics on the left side of the playfield [[File:T2-upper-right.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-upper-right2.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove switch from right habittrail above right pop bumper. Put screws back in switch for safe keeping.
# Remove right habittrail, nylock nut. Clear plastic over mounting bracket behind 3 red targets. 6-32 machine screw 3/4" with star washer and regular washer.
# Remove left slingshot plastic.
# Remove right slingshot plastic.
# Remove lite kickback plastic and the gate for the ball shooter lane.
# Remove right ramp with "skynet command center" on it.
# Remove pop bumper caps.
# Remove plastic under ramp to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove metal shield in front of lower pop bumper – 2 nylock nuts
# Remove plastic at end of shooter lane.
# Remove playfield from holding pins and pull forward for access to parts in the very back.
# Remove left metal ramp.
# Remove ball gate behind the single drop target. [[File:T2-skull1.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-skull2.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove plastics around skull and lift out the skull assembly. The habittrail that goes to the cannon needs to be removed at this time because the skull goes through it. The screws that hold the VUK end are obscured by the skull, so move the skull out of the way, remove the screws and lift it and the skull out. [[File:T2-upper-back.jpg|500px|border]][[File:T2-upper-right-stripped.jpg|500px|border]] 
# Remove plastic in back of canon
# Remove plastic from left corner.
# Remove plastic from right corner.
# Remove plastic to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove cannon mounting by pulling the 1/2 inch e-clip and unplugging the harness, the gun will lift right off of the playfield. Remove the bushing and plate below it 4 phillips head screws and four 3/16 inch nuts below the playfield.
# Remove star posts. '''Note:''' the right rear star post has a ball gate that goes to the metal guide and post for ramp on it. And the post in front of it has clear plastic ball trap protector.
# Remove metal ball guides in rear. '''NOTE:''' Metal plate behind saucer at rear of lane guides has side rail wood screw in middle of two hex head screws.
# Replace rubber rings and rubber posts.

Light bulbs - 35 #44 (or 47's) and 11 #89's on playfield.
[[File:T2-stripped.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-posts-complete.jpg|500px|border]]

Shipped with White rings and Black flipper rings
<table border="border">
Rings - Inside Diameter   </th><th>   Quantity  

3/16 </th><th> 2
5/16 </th><th> 13
3/4 </th><th> 6
1 </th><th> 4
1-1/4 </th><th> 2
2 </th><th> 4
2-1/2 </th><th> 2
Flipper (std 1-1/2) (blk) 3
Rubber Sleeve (black) 15
Minipost-sdt 27/64 2

Total Per Game 53

Changes from manual - lots - black sleeves, mini rubber for post between flippers and
one at top right of upper bumper. And the one inch rings should be doubled (one on
top of the other).

To reassemble follow these steps backwards.

As you assembly the ramps, make sure you run wires under the playfield
before you put the ramp in place.

It's also a good idea to run a lamp test once you've replaced all the
lamps and before you start putting everything back.

Good luck - end of guide.

File:T2-posts-complete.jpg

2012-06-18T18:30:07Z

Loupz: t2 shop guide

t2 shop guide

File:T2-stripped.jpg

2012-06-18T18:29:41Z

Loupz: t2 shop guide

t2 shop guide

File:T2-upper-right-stripped.jpg

2012-06-18T18:29:05Z

Loupz: T2 Shop Guide

T2 Shop Guide

File:T2-upper-back.jpg

2012-06-18T18:28:33Z

Loupz: T2 shop guide

T2 shop guide

Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Guide

2012-06-18T18:27:04Z

Loupz:

=== Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Out Guide ===

Date: December 3, 2004.

A few notes about getting started. I find that it's easiest for me to just
get a bunch of paper cups, write the name of the playfield part I'm working
with on the paper cup and then throw all the screws and nuts into that cup.
I find that if I have a cup for say the sling shot plastics, when I go to
reassemble it's pretty easy to deduce what goes where.
Pictures are always a big help.
Also, whenever possible put the screw or nut back into the part
it came out of.

And take plenty of pictures. If you have a digital camera, go overboard,
you can always delete them after things are back together.

And lastly, I found this a rather easy pin to shop. Things come a part in
logical manner; everything you need to remove has connectors (except for
the pop bumpers). There are no big surprises and the order is not that critical.

=== Parts to have on hand ===

* Replacement plastics if you can get them. The skull plastics are usually broken.
* Bulbs - thirty or so #44 or #47, twenty #555, and a few #89 flashers
* Rubber ring kit - see chart at end
* Replacements for anything that is obviously broken, pop bumpers, for example.

=== Starting pictures: ===

[[File:T2-before-1.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-2.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-3.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-4.jpg|500px|border]]

=== Start here ===

# Remove 3 balls.
# Raise playfield and disconnect wires to ramps (basically any wire running though a hole to the top of the playfield). Make sure all wires can come up through the holes without any encumbrances. Label connectors so they will be easier to reconnect. I use a sharpie permanent ink pen and use the letters of the alphabet - a,b,c...
# Lower playfield and remove the plastic with a skull on it in the upper left corner of the playfield on metal ramp - has 4 hex head sheet metal screws 3/8"
# Remove Hunter-Killer Ship plastic, if you have one. You can get repro H-K ships from http://www.bayareaamusements.com. Remove metal guide over the 5 white targets - machine screws with washers holds it and the H-K ship wire.
# Remove left habittrail - has nylock over topside of slingshot plastic and 1/2 inch screw with self washer.
# Remove plastics on the left side of the playfield
[[File:T2-upper-right.jpg
[[File:T2-upper-right2.jpg"
# Remove switch from right habittrail above right pop bumper. Put screws back in switch for safe keeping.
# Remove right habittrail, nylock nut. Clear plastic over mounting bracket behind 3 red targets. 6-32 machine screw 3/4" with star washer and regular washer.
# Remove left slingshot plastic.
# Remove right slingshot plastic.
# Remove lite kickback plastic and the gate for the ball shooter lane.
# Remove right ramp with "skynet command center" on it.
# Remove pop bumper caps.
# Remove plastic under ramp to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove metal shield in front of lower pop bumper – 2 nylock nuts
# Remove plastic at end of shooter lane.
# Remove playfield from holding pins and pull forward for access to parts in the very back.
# Remove left metal ramp.
# Remove ball gate behind the single drop target.
[[File:T2-skull1.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-skull2.jpg|500px|border]]
# Remove plastics around skull and lift out the skull assembly. The habittrail that goes to the cannon needs to be removed at this time because the skull goes through it.
 
The screws that hold the VUK end are obscured by the skull, so move the skull out of the way, remove the screws and lift it and the skull out.
[[File:T2-upper-back.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-upper-right-stripped.jpg|500px|border]]
# Remove plastic in back of canon
# Remove plastic from left corner.
# Remove plastic from right corner.
# Remove plastic to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove cannon mounting by pulling the 1/2 inch e-clip and
unplugging the harness, the gun will lift right off of the playfield.
Remove the bushing and plate below it 4 phillips head screws and four 3/16 inch nuts
below the playfield.
# Remove star posts.
 
Note, the right rear star post has a ball gate that goes to the
metal guide and post for ramp on it.
And the post in front of it has clear plastic ball trap protector.
# Remove metal ball guides in rear.
 NOTE: Metal plate behind saucer at rear of lane guides has side rail wood screw in middle of two hex head screws.
# Replace rubber rings and rubber posts.

Light bulbs - 35 #44 (or 47's) and 11 #89's on playfield.
"t2-shop-guide_files\stripped.jpg|500px|border]]
"t2-shop-guide_files\posts-complete.jpg|500px|border]]

Shipped with White rings and Black flipper rings
<table border="border">
Rings - Inside Diameter   </th><th>   Quantity  

3/16 </th><th> 2
5/16 </th><th> 13
3/4 </th><th> 6
1 </th><th> 4
1-1/4 </th><th> 2
2 </th><th> 4
2-1/2 </th><th> 2
Flipper (std 1-1/2) (blk) 3
Rubber Sleeve (black) 15
Minipost-sdt 27/64 2

Total Per Game 53

Changes from manual - lots - black sleeves, mini rubber for post between flippers and
one at top right of upper bumper. And the one inch rings should be doubled (one on
top of the other).

To reassemble follow these steps backwards.

As you assembly the ramps, make sure you run wires under the playfield
before you put the ramp in place.

It's also a good idea to run a lamp test once you've replaced all the
lamps and before you start putting everything back.

Good luck - end of guide.

File:T2-skull2.jpg

2012-06-18T18:23:49Z

Loupz: t2 shop guide

t2 shop guide

File:T2-skull1.jpg

2012-06-18T18:23:28Z

Loupz: t2 shop guide

t2 shop guide

File:T2-upper-right2.jpg

2012-06-18T18:23:04Z

Loupz: T2 Shop Guide

T2 Shop Guide

File:T2-upper-right.jpg

2012-06-18T18:22:14Z

Loupz: T2 shop guide

T2 shop guide

Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Guide

2012-06-18T18:20:20Z

Loupz:

=== Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Out Guide ===

Date: December 3, 2004.

A few notes about getting started. I find that it's easiest for me to just
get a bunch of paper cups, write the name of the playfield part I'm working
with on the paper cup and then throw all the screws and nuts into that cup.
I find that if I have a cup for say the sling shot plastics, when I go to
reassemble it's pretty easy to deduce what goes where.
Pictures are always a big help.
Also, whenever possible put the screw or nut back into the part
it came out of.

And take plenty of pictures. If you have a digital camera, go overboard,
you can always delete them after things are back together.

And lastly, I found this a rather easy pin to shop. Things come a part in
logical manner; everything you need to remove has connectors (except for
the pop bumpers). There are no big surprises and the order is not that critical.

=== Parts to have on hand ===

* Replacement plastics if you can get them. The skull plastics are usually broken.
* Bulbs - thirty or so #44 or #47, twenty #555, and a few #89 flashers
* Rubber ring kit - see chart at end
* Replacements for anything that is obviously broken, pop bumpers, for example.

=== Starting pictures: ===

[[File:T2-before-1.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-2.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-3.jpg|500px|border]]
[[File:T2-before-4.jpg|500px|border]]

=== Start here ===

# Remove 3 balls.
# Raise playfield and disconnect wires to ramps (basically any wire running though a hole to the top of the playfield). Make sure all wires can come up through the holes without any encumbrances. Label connectors so they will be easier to reconnect. I use a sharpie permanent ink pen
and use the letters of the alphabet - a,b,c...
# Lower playfield and remove the plastic with a skull on it in the upper left corner of the playfield on metal ramp - has 4 hex head sheet metal screws 3/8"
# Remove Hunter-Killer Ship plastic, if you have one. You can get repro H-K ships from http://www.bayareaamusements.com. Remove metal guide over the 5 white targets - machine screws with washers holds it and the H-K ship wire.
# Remove left habittrail - has nylock over topside of slingshot plastic and 1/2 inch screw with self washer.
# Remove plastics on the left side of the playfield

"t2-shop-guide_files\upper-right.jpg"
"t2-shop-guide_files\upper-right2.jpg"
# Remove switch from right habittrail above right pop bumper. Put screws back in switch for safe keeping.
# Remove right habittrail, nylock nut. Clear plastic over mounting bracket behind 3 red targets. 6-32 machine screw 3/4" with star washer and regular washer.
# Remove left slingshot plastic.
# Remove right slingshot plastic.
# Remove lite kickback plastic and the gate for the ball shooter lane.
# Remove right ramp with "skynet command center" on it.
# Remove pop bumper caps.
# Remove plastic under ramp to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove metal shield in front of lower pop bumper – 2 nylock nuts
# Remove plastic at end of shooter lane.
# Remove playfield from holding pins and pull forward for access to parts in the very back.
# Remove left metal ramp.
# Remove ball gate behind the single drop target.

"t2-shop-guide_files\skull1.jpg"
"t2-shop-guide_files\skull2.jpg"
# Remove plastics around skull and lift out the skull assembly. The habittrail that goes to the cannon needs to be removed at this time because the skull goes through it.
 
The screws that hold the VUK end are obscured by the skull, so move the skull out of the way, remove the screws and lift it and the skull out.

"t2-shop-guide_files\upper-back.jpg"
"t2-shop-guide_files\upper-right-stripped.jpg"
# Remove plastic in back of canon
# Remove plastic from left corner.
# Remove plastic from right corner.
# Remove plastic to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove cannon mounting by pulling the 1/2 inch e-clip and
unplugging the harness, the gun will lift right off of the playfield.
Remove the bushing and plate below it 4 phillips head screws and four 3/16 inch nuts
below the playfield.
# Remove star posts.
 
Note, the right rear star post has a ball gate that goes to the
metal guide and post for ramp on it.
And the post in front of it has clear plastic ball trap protector.
# Remove metal ball guides in rear.
 NOTE: Metal plate behind saucer at rear of lane guides has side rail wood screw in middle of two hex head screws.
# Replace rubber rings and rubber posts.

Light bulbs - 35 #44 (or 47's) and 11 #89's on playfield.
"t2-shop-guide_files\stripped.jpg"
"t2-shop-guide_files\posts-complete.jpg"

Shipped with White rings and Black flipper rings
<table border="border">
Rings - Inside Diameter   </th><th>   Quantity  

3/16 </th><th> 2
5/16 </th><th> 13
3/4 </th><th> 6
1 </th><th> 4
1-1/4 </th><th> 2
2 </th><th> 4
2-1/2 </th><th> 2
Flipper (std 1-1/2) (blk) 3
Rubber Sleeve (black) 15
Minipost-sdt 27/64 2

Total Per Game 53

Changes from manual - lots - black sleeves, mini rubber for post between flippers and
one at top right of upper bumper. And the one inch rings should be doubled (one on
top of the other).

To reassemble follow these steps backwards.

As you assembly the ramps, make sure you run wires under the playfield
before you put the ramp in place.

It's also a good idea to run a lamp test once you've replaced all the
lamps and before you start putting everything back.

Good luck - end of guide.

File:T2-before-4.jpg

2012-06-18T18:15:48Z

Loupz: T2 shop guide

T2 shop guide

File:T2-before-3.jpg

2012-06-18T18:15:19Z

Loupz: T2 shop guide

T2 shop guide

File:T2-before-2.jpg

2012-06-18T18:14:48Z

Loupz: T2 shop guide

T2 shop guide

File:T2-before-1.jpg

2012-06-18T18:13:42Z

Loupz: T2 shop guide

T2 shop guide

Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Guide

2012-06-18T18:08:25Z

Loupz:

=== Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Out Guide ===

Date: December 3, 2004.

A few notes about getting started. I find that it's easiest for me to just
get a bunch of paper cups, write the name of the playfield part I'm working
with on the paper cup and then throw all the screws and nuts into that cup.
I find that if I have a cup for say the sling shot plastics, when I go to
reassemble it's pretty easy to deduce what goes where.
Pictures are always a big help.
Also, whenever possible put the screw or nut back into the part
it came out of.

And take plenty of pictures. If you have a digital camera, go overboard,
you can always delete them after things are back together.

And lastly, I found this a rather easy pin to shop. Things come a part in
logical manner; everything you need to remove has connectors (except for
the pop bumpers). There are no big surprises and the order is not that critical.

=== Parts to have on hand ===

Replacement plastics if you can get them. The skull plastics are usually broken.

Bulbs - thirty or so #44 or #47

twenty #555

a few #89 flashers

Rubber ring kit - see chart at end

Replacements for anything that is obviously broken, pop bumpers, for example.

=== Starting pictures: ===

"t2-shop-guide_files\before-1.jpg"
"t2-shop-guide_files\before-2.jpg"

"t2-shop-guide_files\before-3.jpg"

"t2-shop-guide_files\before-4.jpg"

=== Start here ===

# Remove 3 balls.
# Raise playfield and disconnect wires to ramps (basically any wire running though a hole to the top of the playfield). Make sure all wires can come up through the holes without any encumbrances. Label connectors so they will be easier to reconnect. I use a sharpie permanent ink pen
and use the letters of the alphabet - a,b,c...
# Lower playfield and remove the plastic with a skull on it in the upper left corner of the playfield on metal ramp - has 4 hex head sheet metal screws 3/8"
# Remove Hunter-Killer Ship plastic, if you have one. You can get repro H-K ships from http://www.bayareaamusements.com. Remove metal guide over the 5 white targets - machine screws with washers holds it and the H-K ship wire.
# Remove left habittrail - has nylock over topside of slingshot plastic and 1/2 inch screw with self washer.
# Remove plastics on the left side of the playfield

"t2-shop-guide_files\upper-right.jpg"
"t2-shop-guide_files\upper-right2.jpg"
# Remove switch from right habittrail above right pop bumper. Put screws back in switch for safe keeping.
# Remove right habittrail, nylock nut. Clear plastic over mounting bracket behind 3 red targets. 6-32 machine screw 3/4" with star washer and regular washer.
# Remove left slingshot plastic.
# Remove right slingshot plastic.
# Remove lite kickback plastic and the gate for the ball shooter lane.
# Remove right ramp with "skynet command center" on it.
# Remove pop bumper caps.
# Remove plastic under ramp to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove metal shield in front of lower pop bumper – 2 nylock nuts
# Remove plastic at end of shooter lane.
# Remove playfield from holding pins and pull forward for access to parts in the very back.
# Remove left metal ramp.
# Remove ball gate behind the single drop target.

"t2-shop-guide_files\skull1.jpg"
"t2-shop-guide_files\skull2.jpg"
# Remove plastics around skull and lift out the skull assembly. The habittrail that goes to the cannon needs to be removed at this time because the skull goes through it.
 
The screws that hold the VUK end are obscured by the skull, so move the skull out of the way, remove the screws and lift it and the skull out.

"t2-shop-guide_files\upper-back.jpg"
"t2-shop-guide_files\upper-right-stripped.jpg"
# Remove plastic in back of canon
# Remove plastic from left corner.
# Remove plastic from right corner.
# Remove plastic to right of pop bumpers.
# Remove cannon mounting by pulling the 1/2 inch e-clip and
unplugging the harness, the gun will lift right off of the playfield.
Remove the bushing and plate below it 4 phillips head screws and four 3/16 inch nuts
below the playfield.
# Remove star posts.
 
Note, the right rear star post has a ball gate that goes to the
metal guide and post for ramp on it.
And the post in front of it has clear plastic ball trap protector.
# Remove metal ball guides in rear.
 NOTE: Metal plate behind saucer at rear of lane guides has side rail wood screw in middle of two hex head screws.
# Replace rubber rings and rubber posts.

Light bulbs - 35 #44 (or 47's) and 11 #89's on playfield.
"t2-shop-guide_files\stripped.jpg"
"t2-shop-guide_files\posts-complete.jpg"

Shipped with White rings and Black flipper rings
<table border="border">
Rings - Inside Diameter   </th><th>   Quantity  

3/16 </th><th> 2
5/16 </th><th> 13
3/4 </th><th> 6
1 </th><th> 4
1-1/4 </th><th> 2
2 </th><th> 4
2-1/2 </th><th> 2
Flipper (std 1-1/2) (blk) 3
Rubber Sleeve (black) 15
Minipost-sdt 27/64 2

Total Per Game 53

Changes from manual - lots - black sleeves, mini rubber for post between flippers and
one at top right of upper bumper. And the one inch rings should be doubled (one on
top of the other).

To reassemble follow these steps backwards.

As you assembly the ramps, make sure you run wires under the playfield
before you put the ramp in place.

It's also a good idea to run a lamp test once you've replaced all the
lamps and before you start putting everything back.

Good luck - end of guide.

Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure Shop Guide

2012-06-14T22:34:01Z

Loupz:

===INDIANA JONES RESTORATION GUIDE===

BY

GARRET LEE

MARCH 31,1999

=== Cleaning your Indiana Jones Pinball Machine ===

These documents describe how to completely and thoroughly 'shop out' your Indiana Jones (IJ) pinball machine. 'Shop out' is an amusement industry term which means to go through a machine and make sure its working 100% and ready to be placed on location to make money.
I am going to describe, in detail, how to completely take apart your IJ, cleaning and checking various parts, and putting it back together. I will include several tips that I've learned in my past 6 years of shopping out pins for a living. The cleaning that I will describe will be even more detailed than I do when I shop out pins for my company. You should only need to do this detailed of a cleaning once in a great while. Later, only quick playfield cleaning will be necessary depending on the amount of use your IJ gets.

This process will take time, please don't cut any corners. In the end you will have a great sense of satisfaction knowing that your IJ is in 100% condition. After this cleaning it should be 100% factory condition except for playfield wear and any broken plastics. This is how I shop out pins, if you have any problems or questions with the process, please email me.

I wrote these documents while actually shopping out my IJ. It took me several days, working a couple hours per day. Since I wrote down everything I've done while actually shopping out my IJ, these documents are meant to be a checklist for you as you shop out yours along with me. Go through every step, in the same order I've done mine. If you get stuck, email me, I'll be happy to walk you through any steps. I have a digital camera and can even take pictures of my IJ to illustrate any points that may be unclear. I'm just an ordinary guy like yourself, don't be bashful, let me know if you have any problems in your shopping out process.

I would like to mention, here, that I own a regular USA production Indiana Jones. If you own that was made for another country, it may be different in that it probably has a different software version and the coin door on the front of the machine is probably a different style. It's also wired for your voltage system.

My Indiana Jones is not a prototype model. You may own a prototype model, which is a little bit different than the regular production model. Here's a list of differences that I know about…
# Prototype has gold/bronze colored (metal?) side rails on the tilting mini-playfield. Production model has red plastic here.
# Prototype has 'Lost Plastic' plastic along the entire back wood panel of the playfield. Production has no plastic back there. I'll include a note during the shop-out about when I think you'd want to remove this plastic and when to re-install it. There's a picture of this plastic on the Stage 1 page.
# Prototype has three blinking lights on the speaker panel just underneath the dot-matrix-display. These lamps are tied in with the same jackpot lamps in the middle of the playfield. Production models have the graphic on the speaker panel plastic, but no lamps behind them, just solid wood.

That's all of the differences I can think of right now! I have heard there was a beautiful plastic designed for underneath the right ramp. If your IJ has a beautiful plastic under the right ramp, then you really have a unique piece. Most Indiana Jones' have a plain, yellow with tan 'bricks' colored piece here.

Specifically, this shop out took me around 25 hours. I put in about 3 or 4 hours per night, plus a whole day that I had off from work. If you have a digital camera, you may find it useful to take pictures of the playfield as you disassemble it. My pictures do not really show specifics, you may want to take close-up pictures of the different assemblies before you remove them.
I've written some steps fairly long. Please read an entire step before doing it. A 'step' is a sentence or group of sentences that start with a '-'. Read the entire step because I get wordy and sometimes re-word the previous sentence which may be better for you to understand.
Just off the top of my head I'm going to list the things that I've made runs to the hardware store for: 409, Windex, tough paper towels (the blue ones), Foam weather-stripping for the stand-up target backing and fender washers for slingshots. Tools: deep socket nut drivers (like screwdrivers except for nuts), The size for the two different size nuts on the slingshots (I can't remember the sizes off hand), and a quarter inch one which had a magnet in it so it would hold the screw while I fed it to its screw-hole. Actually the magnet of this tool was designed to 'hold' different types of screw-heads, but I never used the screw-heads, just the quarter-inch shaft. I also ended up getting some more quarter-inch hex head machine screws as used throughout the machine to screw down plastics.

===STAGE 1: The Disassembly===
First you will need some space to set the parts you remove from the machine. I usually have 3 main piles: Plastics (I put into the coin box), Ramps, and a container for the screws. In this detailed cleaning, we'll also have a 'pile' for playfield metal guides, rubbers, lamps, and posts. If you are not comfortable throwing all of the screws into a container because you may forget what goes where, re-screw them into their holes after you have removed what they hold.
When I finished, I had two sort of unique screws that I wasn't sure where they went. I ended up using them in the center plastic/airplane area. These screws are: Rounded head, phillips screw with star washer, short with same threads as all of the hex head machine screws used throughout the game for plastics. The second screw was a hex head screw with a phillips slot on top, it had a star washer and same threads as before. If you come across these two, be sure to remark to yourself where these two 'unique' screws go. (All the rest of the screws in the machine with this thread have a plain hex head, except for the two that hold the target to the captive ball railing, if I remember correctly).
You'll see how there are really only three or four different types of screws. Some for going into wood, into metal posts, through thick wood (longer ones), and tiny ones for ramps and pop bumper caps.
# Remove glass and backglass and set aside.
# Remove the 6 balls (some may be inside the idol).
# Remove coin box so we can put plastics in it later.
# Raise playfield.
# Unplug all in-wire connectors. Most of the connectors are from above the playfield, there are some from the under playfield tunnel and idol motor also. There's also a connector that comes from out of the rear of the playfield. I've counted 21 connectors that I unplugged on mine. As you unplug connectors that come from above the playfield, make sure that you will later be able to pull from above the playfield and these wires will come out. That is, clip any zip-ties and unwrap the wires from any clips that may impede the wire from being pulled through the playfield. You may find it VERY convenient to, before unplugging a connector, number the connector. That is put the number on both the male and the female connectors before unplugging them. I'd use a thin felt tip marker and label each 1 through 21 as you unplug them. This way, when you plug them back in, you just have to match up '1 male' with '1 female' and '2 male' with '2 female' and so on. I had a little confusion when I finally finished and tried figuring out where all of the connectors go.
# Unplug the little two wire (red and white) connector from the little circuit board just under the right inlane. This connector is for the idol motor. Unwrap these two wires from the clip so that when we remove the idol motor assembly nothing will be grabbing this wire.
# Locate the solenoid that energizes the right ramp diverter. It's under the right ramp (under the playfield). It's a yellow coil number FL11753-1. Out of this coil is a metal shaft with a spring. This shaft is tied with another little spring to a part that 'screws' to the bottom of the ramp diverter piece. Locate and loosen the set screw in the side of this. It's a small allen (hex) screw which should be 'facing' the left side of the pinball machine. Unscrew this set screw so that we will be able to pull up on the metal ramp diverter later on and pull it out. (When we do so, this piece will fall down in the cabinet). You may be able to remove this part and spring right now, depends on how much force you feel comfortable in removing it. I said to 'let if fall' when you remove the diverter piece later, it will fall out without any resistance.
# Lower the playfield, leave it in the 'pulled out and latched' position.
# Unscrew the 'apron'. The metal part that covers the ball tough area. There should be four screws holding it down from above, and sometimes two more from the front. Set this aside. Put screws in a container or re-screw them in the holes if you are uncomfortable with mixing the screws. This will apply for now on with all screws. If your apron screws also had washers, make yourself a little remark about it, mine didn't, but I think I've seen pins with phillips screws with washers.
# Remove the 3 metal pieces that the apron was screwed to. 11 hex wood screws. This will make it easier to completely clean the playfield. For now on, I'll be removing lots of parts people don't ordinarily remove, all for the same reason, a bare playfield will be so much easier to clean.
# Remove metal piece just to the right, in the ball shooter lane. 2 screws. This piece protector piece for the right side of the shooter lane.
# Remove metal piece just to left of the ball shooter solenoid, 2 screws.
# So far I've been putting the pieces in the coin box. This is a good method of doing things, especially the plastics because it allows stacking of pieces just right. I'll throw the pieces in the coin box and they will pile up in such a way, that when I re-assemble the machine I just have to pick off the top of what's in the coin box. The pieces we take off first will be at the bottom of the cash box, so they will ultimately be the last things I put back on when I re-assemble the machine.
# Remove metal 'guard' piece on lower left side by the left outlane. 2 nuts.
# Remove the two gold colored rail ramps on left side.
# Sometimes, when unscrewing nuts the post underneath will unscrew from the playfield. You'll need to either use needle nose pliers to hold onto the post while unscrewing the nut, or just unscrew the post with the nut and separate them, then put the post back for now.
# NOTE: My IJ doesn't have the German airplane installed. Just remove it now, or when we start removing ramps and plastics in that part of the playfield. I will document putting the airplane back during re-assembly so don't worry about when to put it back on. Two more 'unique' screws that I wasn't sure exactly where they were 'supposed' to go... There are many hex head machine screws throughout the game, I had ended up with two of them shorter than the rest. You'll see during re-assembly that I had put them in the left ramp top screw-down, and in the plastic just to the right of the left ramp entrance. You may want to make a special note to yourself if you come across these screws so you know where they are 'supposed' to go.
# Remove left slingshot plastic and any washers. (replace washers just like screws, if you are not comfortable with throwing them all into a container).
# For now on, when I say to remove a plastic, I'm assuming you're going to put it into the coin box.
# Remove the green plastic that was under far left rail ball guide you just removed.
# At top of playfield, remove the metal 'bridge' piece. There's two screws on top and one that's hard to reach on the lower side of it. Note, my IJ didn't have the lower screw installed.
# On left of mini-playfield, remove the metal ball path. 2 screws.
# Remove the green plastic on lower left of playfield (covers ADV targets). You have to remove two nuts, and the two wood screws. The two wood screws can only be unscrewed just a little and the plastic should lift out.
# Remove the ball path guide piece just to the left of the ADV targets.
# Loosen the tiny allen (hex) lock-nut that holds the mini-playfield to the mini-playfield motor shaft. Look at the top part of the mini-playfield. There are two hex nuts to loosen, loosen the one closest to the mini-playfield. The other hex nut holds a metal piece, which moves back and forth between two opto switches (This is how the machine knows when the mini-playfield is tilted left or right.
# Remove two nuts that holds the lower part of mini-playfield to the playfield. These nuts are near the lower part of the mini playfield through a piece of metal that comes out of it. (see manual instructions for removing the mini-playfield if you're confused). Be careful not to put too much pressure on the motor shaft at the top of the mini-playfield assembly. The manual stresses to 'not put too much pressure on the motor shaft' for the mini-playfield. I don't really think it's that big of a deal. It's a tough motor and I'm sure it can handle a little pressure.
# Carefully slide the mini-playfield toward the front of the machine. Once it comes out of the motor shaft, pull the mini-playfield out of the machine and pull up on the wires that come through the playfield (they should all be unplugged from earlier step)
# Unscrew the three screws in the inlane-outlane divider right by the left flipper. The screws have to come up about a half inch before the entire plastic piece can be removed. Remove it.-Remove the right side metal ball rail-ramp.
# Remove the right side sling-shot cover plastic.
# Unscrew and remove right side inlane-outlane divider and 'last chance' return gate.
# Loosen two screws just to the right of the right outlane plastic, remove the plastic.
# Remove the lower pop-bumper cover (cap).
# Remove the 'Raise jackpot when flashing' plastic assembly in center of playfield. There's going to be a nut that's hiding under the green part of it.
# Remove the left ramp. Two tiny phillips screws in the front where ball enters the ramp and one screw in the rear which is obvious to see.
# Remove the plastic covering the 'start mode' saucer.
# Remove the plastic just above the 'start mode' saucer. The plastic that was underneath the mini-playfield.
# Remove the left and right pop-bumper caps.
# Unscrew and remove the plastic piece which screws into the right ramp which covers the ramp diverter piece.
# Pull up on the metal ramp diverter piece. Keep the washers with this piece, we don't want to misplace them. There should be two washers under the diverter's 'arm'.
# The part under the playfield should now fall down, be sure not to lose it when we re-assemble it. There should be a metal shaft that went into the coil. It should be attached by a spring to a piece that 'clamps' to the end of the diverter. The second part that fell is a spring that went around the metal shaft as it went into the coil.
# Remove the right ramp assembly. Three screws at the top, two mini phillips screws at the bottom and two regular screws at the bottom sides.
# Remove the V or U shaped metal piece just under the right ramp.
# Remove the two plastic pieces that were under the right ramp.
# Remove the left three INDY lane dividers. Just remove each set of dividers as a whole unit (two screws) and set them aside, it's a good idea to set them down somewhere in the right order. (ie. The one with the long post is far left). Don't put these in the cash box, just set them aside.
# Remove the metal flap that's covering the right side of INDY ball gate. (it's screwed into the back of the playfield)
# Remove the plastic just to the right of the INDY lanes.
# Remove the red 'light hood' that was under the plastic we just removed. NOTE: There's a hole under this fourth light hood for a general illumination lamp. But it looks like they tried saving a little money and cut this light out of production. (I've seen several INDYs without this lamp installed.)
# Remove the captive ball wire railing. One screw into the back playfield panel, and two nuts down in front by where the ball 'rests'. Note: During re-assembly I wasn't sure if the screw that went into the back of the playfield had a washer or not. You may want to make yourself a note, I'll make a reference to this note below during re-assembly. UPDATE: Remember that I have a regular production IJ which doesn’t have the ‘Lost Plastic on the rear wood panel of the playfield. I don’t know how much stress the following step will put on the plastic, so I just want to say here be very careful. If it appears it could crack the plastic, maybe we can figure out a better way of removing the captive ball rail-tube.
# Now, removing this part takes a little bit of force. Push back on the rear playfield panel just a little and pull up on the captive ball railing. It should pop out. The ball should also try to make a run for it (after years of captivity). Remove the opto assembly (we just unscrewed it with the two nuts) Remove the ball. The target in the back of the captive ball, behind the rear panel needs to be unscrewed from this piece. Two screws at the base of the target hold it to the railing. Unscrew them and let the target dangle in the rear of the machine. These two screws seem to be unique, don't get them mixed up with the rest of the screws. Remove the railing.
# Remove the green plastic in upper right corner of playfield. One nut has to be removed, and two screws need to be loosened a little. UPDATE: This looks like where you would want to unscrew the Lost Plastic piece from the rear wood panel of the playfield. You might want to make a note of the types of screws it had to hold it on because I don’t know. It probably uses philips head wood screws.
# Remove the four screws into the idol assembly cover plastic. Remove the plastic (it is actually two plastics which were screwed together by one of the four screws we just unscrewed. These screws are black colored on my IJ, these are unique so I'm not mixing them also so that I remember to install the same black screws when I re-assemble.
# With the playfield pullout out in the latched position, you can stick your hand in the right side and pull down on the idol exit piece. With the idol exit pulled down, look in, under the idol's head in the area where the balls sit. There is a single allen set screw that holds the idol to the motor shaft. If the set screw isn't facing out so we can unscrew it, turn on the machine and let the idol spin until you can see the allen nut, when you see it, turn the game off so we can loosen this nut. Loosen this nut and pull up and remove the idol head. Its best to hold down the idol exit piece while unscrewing the set screw.
# Remove all tools and parts off the playfield and raise it up.
# Unscrew and remove the motor bracket for the idol motor. Don't panic, it's just three screws. Two on the inner side and one on the outer side (near the edge of the playfield). During re-assembly I wasn't positive if these screws were phillips or hex head. Please make a note to yourself here (if it's hex or phillips).
# Now you should see a triangle of three phillip head screws going into the playfield which hold the yellow idol in place from under the playfield. Unscrew these three screws and make sure the idol piece doesn't fall when you remove the last screw. Remove the yellow idol part from above the playfield.
# Lower the playfield into the pulled out and latched position again.
# Remove the orange trim piece that was under the idol part. It's a good idea to re-screw the long 1/4 piece back into the thread. Otherwise, it's a common mistake to simply re-assemble it with a regular nut, and realize that this long piece should have gone there when we go to put on the idol cover pieces.
# Remove all rubbers (rings, posts, and flipper rubbers). Keep them if you plan on cleaning them and re-installing them.
# This is the end of normal dis-assembly.
The following will be the super-intensive disassembly description. I'm going to remove the pins and metal ball guides. This will make it much easier to clean the corners and cracks that's normally hard to get at when pins and metal pieces are still on the playfield. I'm starting a pile of 'metal pieces' now, and a bucket of pins and long screws that hold the pins in place.
The playfield is pretty bare right now. It is possible modify this document so you don't have to remove any more playfield parts. You will have to figure out where to pick up during the re-assembly process.
To help me remember what pins go where and with what long nuts, I've make a photocopy of the page from the manual that lists all of the pins and posts the machine has. Then I label each pin and post with a letter or number. Then I copied a page from the manual with a diagram of the playfield. I then mark where which pin and nut cam from. For example I label the lower pin for the right side of lower sling shot at 1A. The 1 refers to the long nut with threading on the top and bottom. The A refers to the "star post #8". I have a number/letter combination for every pin I take off. There are two more screws you'll need to draw into the diagram and label. One is a long phillips threaded screw like used in the slingshot pins and INDY lane dividers. The other is a long phillips wood screw also used in the INDY dividers.
You can find these manual pages plus how I used them on my web page.
# On the controlled gates at top of playfield: remove the little control spring from the armature. Just slide the loop of the spring off the gate's arm. Unscrew the two screws holding each gate to the playfield. The screws for the right one are tricky, but possible to remove. (I used needle-nose pliers).
# Remove all posts and pins that you can on the top side of the playfield as above instructions, write down where all different types of pins and posts go. There are three adjustable posts, one by each outlane and one by the idol exit, they have an additional nut on the underside of the playfield holding them in, unscrew the nut first or hold onto it with pliers when unscrewing the post. There are three posts in the captive ball area that are screwed into the playfield, they have a hex base that you can put a wrench to and unscrew, keep the washers under them with the posts as you set them aside. Without these washers, playfield wear increases when these posts get loose during game play. There is also another post you can unscrew with the hex base just to the left of the ENT drop targets.
# There are 8 posts which are held on by a nut and washer below the playfield, I'll take them off later, I'll say it below when I do. (The posts on each side of the ramp entrances and by idol lock shot. One by the captive ball area)
# Remove all lamps and flasher lights that come through the playfield (the general illumination lights and flashers). Don't forget the lights in the pop bumpers. Set these aside in a container.
# Remove all metal ball guides. Most are screwed onto the top part of the playfield with screws and bolted through the playfield with a nut on the underside. Remove all nuts and screws and remove all metal ball guides. This includes the metal rounded 'scoops' for the start mode and idol lock shots. There are some metal ball guides which are just thin pieces of wire glued into the playfield. I'm not removing these parts because they are glued into place and not a hassle to clean around.
For the metal guides that you have to raise the playfield and unscrew a nut and washer. It's a good idea to rescrew the nut and washer to the metal piece when setting it aside. I'll list the metal parts I have to unscrew from under the playfield here:
First the small metal piece just to the left of INDY lanes. There's one nut under the playfield holding it on. Remove it and the metal piece.
Metal guide piece just to the left of "Super Jackpot" light. One nut and washer below playfield. Remove them.
Metal 'wedge' piece just under right ramp. One nut and washer below playfield.
Metal guide piece on left side of right loop shot. One nut and washer.
Metal guide just to left of left outlane. One nut under playfield, no washer. Note removing this nut will also remove what holds the LEFT support arm for holding the playfield in the 'pulled out and latched' position. After removing this part, be careful as only one nut will be holding the support arm in place.
Metal idol exit ramp. Five nuts and four washers under playfield. Note one nut holds the RIGHT playfield support arm in place. From now on, be careful when raising the playfield as only one nut is holding each support arm in place.
# The remaining metal pieces can all be moved from the top side of the playfield. Note a unique short phillips screw on right side of playfield holding the long U shaped loop metal. Two unique flathead phillips holding the ball shooter lane metal "ramp". What the heck, I even removed the metal piece on the back panel of playfield (the piece that the right ramp screws to). Note the lower end of the ball guide on the left side of the shooter lane overlaps the INSIDE of the idol exit ramp.
# Raise playfield and remove the standup targets. There are two screws per target. There are 7 targets. ADV three targets. ENT One narrow target. URE three targets. Let them dangle below the playfield.
# There are 4 sling-shot blade switches. Two screws for each switch. Remove the screws and let the switches dangle below the playfield.
# Remove the under-playfield ball path for the lock shot to the idol. There are five wood screws and one 'machine screw'. I'd put the machine screw back in the hole after removing the part. When I tried removing the part, one of my opto's was wired intertwined with the other wiring in the machine. I had to temporarily remove the opto from the part, unwind it, and screw it back in so I could remove the part from the machine.
# Now, I removed the 8 posts which are held on by a nut and washer. I'd rescrew the washer and nut onto the thread when setting these aside. Remember to write down where each type of post goes on a diagram of the playfield.
# Unscrew the metal scoop that is for where the popper pops the ball from under the playfield to the Idol. The coil doesn't 'unplug' so let this part dangle under the playfield.
You don't have to let it 'dangle', you can tuck this part under the playfield wiring bundles so it won't dangle.
I am now finished with the disassembly process. Currently the only things on top of the playfield are the: flipper bats, slingshot kickers, pop bumpers, Idol 'release' gate, wire form ball guides (glued into playfield), mini playfield motor and optos, and the ball trough and shooter lane kicker.
You may choose, having gone this far, to even remove the above parts (the pop bumpers and ball trough will be an extreme pain in the rear). If you do, be sure to write down, similar to what I've done, so you can go in reverse of what you've written down to reassemble it later.
I started soaking the 'star posts' the yellow plastic posts for the sling shots etc. I threw them into a cup with hot soapy water.
Soaking the posts didn't really help. I still had to scrub the heck out of them when I cleaned them. (I describe this cleaning later).
The above took a couple nights of work.

=== STAGE 2: Cleaning the playfield ===

Now, forget about all of the parts that we have removed from the playfield. This stage focus on the playfield only, not the parts. We'll focus on the parts during the re-assembly phase.
# Clean the top of the playfield. Clean everything you can without raising the playfield up. This includes the wood edging and wood playfield backing. Since 'playfield cleaner' is expensive, I usually spend most of my cleaning with 409, then once it is cleaned with 409, I use Novus #2 and #1 plastic polishes. (the 'blue stuff' is also a good final polish (Gemeni)). Also clean the pop bumper housings and actuator disks, the flipper bats. (I clean ALL rubber remnants from the flipper bats so they are shiny), clean the idol exit plastic part and shooter coil. It looks like there is a tight spot by the mini-playfield motor area, I used q-tips to clean the corners here. Clean the slingshot kickers also. Just clean everything!!
While cleaning the top of the playfield I decided to unscrew the ball trough. It's 5 screws from above the playfield and two on the underside. I just let it dangle while cleaning the playfield.
I used a moist q-tip and cleaned under the pop-bumper actuator ring. Wipe the insides of the machine's cabinet that you can get to while the playfield is in its current position.
Take your time and examine the playfield at all angles with the light reflecting from the playfield to be sure you didn't miss any areas.
# Clean the dangling ball trough. Wipe the optos with a q-tip. It not easy to clean but, at least clean up the area where the ball sits in. Also clean up the blue rubber part on top. If you break a wire off the coil, re-solder it back on.
# Raise the playfield
-Clean inside of the cabinet sides that can be reached with playfield in this position.
# Clean the wood under the playfield which was hidden by the 'under playfield tunnel' from lock to idol.
# Clean under the 'super jackpot' lamp, red plastic (just because it's easy to get to).
# Clean the four slingshot blade switches as they dangle under the playfield. There’s probably some white playfield cleaner on them. They may be tarnished as well, at least get the gunk off them.
# Screw these blade switches back to the playfield. Two hex wood screws per switch. Four switches. 8 screws total.
# NOTE, when screwing wood screws back into the playfield, if they just turn and strip the wood without tightening, take the screw out, shove a couple toothpicks into the hole and break the toothpicks so they are flush with the wood, re-screw the screw into the hole. The toothpicks fill the stripped hole with more wood for the screw to grab onto.
# Unscrew the three screws for the left two 'Indy's friends' lights about 1/4 inch. The litle circuit board should be able to come off without taking the screws all the way out. Clean the three lights, and clean the underside of the lights (the friends lights).
# Rescrew this circuit board back to playfield.
# Unscrew the three screws for the right two 'Indy's friends' and repeat cleaning process as above.
# Unplug the three connectors to the large center circuit board for lights. Unscrew the 7 screws holding this circuit board to the playfield. Remove the circuit board and clean the light bulbs. Clean the underside of the lamp graphics under the playfield. Re-install this circuit board, screw it in and plug in the 3 connectors back in.
# Unscrew and clean the circuit board for the INDY lane lights like above.
# I'm not specifically cleaning the remaining lamps, because, in my experience just the circuit board style lamps collect lots of dust and last longer than the other. (#555 last longer than #47 & #44), lasting longer, they collect more dust.
# Standup targets: 6 round ones and 1 narrow one. While they are dangling under the playfield, clean each one individually and install it. Clean both sides of the plastic. If the foam is crappy, or gone, clean off the remaining adhesive on the metal and cut a narrow piece of weather stripping and stick it there. (I'm replacing bad foam backing), Hardware stores carry wide weather stripping that works just right for cutting and using as standup target backing. I use Dennis brand #263. It is 1/4" thick, 3/4" wide (and 10' long) with sponge rubber (Not the 'UV' rubber stuff). Clean the contacts on each target also. The most common way is to use a slightly rough paper like that found on business cards. Put the paper between the two contacts and apply pressure to close the contacts against the paper and rub the paper back and forth. This usually does a good job of cleaning contact switches.
# Clean as much of the ball popper from under the playfield to idol as you can. Re# screw it back to the underside of the playfield. 6 hex 1/4 inch wood screws. Be sure to clean the opto switch.
# Rebuilding the 3-bank drop target assy. I always rebuild the drop target assemblies when I shop out a pinball machine. Unplug the connector to the opto circuit board. Unscrew the 6 screws holding the assembly to the playfield. Slide the assembly out from under the ENT light bulbs.
# Unscrew bracket closest to top of solenoid and remove the bracket.
# Loosen nuts on other solenoid bracket. Angle the solenoid and it should come out, make sure the drop target reset plate is all the way down so the solenoid can come out. Once the coil is out, let it dangle, take the assembly to a table for cleaning.
# Clean the solenoid bracket we removed
# Remove and Clean the reset plate/solenoid shaft part, make sure it's nut is firmly screwed in.
# Turn the assembly over, circuit board up.
# Remove the three E clips, two clips have a washer under them, the third one doesn't.
# Lift the circuit board off, clean it up. Be sure to clean the inside of the U shaped opto switches.
# Remove the drop targets for cleaning. For each target there is : A pull-down spring, an E clip on the bottom. On the top post is: E clip, washer, spring, washer, drop target, and another washer.
# Clean up the metal assembly.
# Clean the three drop target plastics.
# Set the assembly down, posts pointing up.
# Place a washer on each upper post (may want to clean washers too).
# Place the three drop targets on place.
NOTE: Lately, at work, I've been dabbing a tiny bit of lubricant grease on the part of the drop target that slides against the drop target plastic. Also a dab of grease on the front of the target that rubs against the front of the assembly. I'm not going to do it during this particular cleaning (mainly because I don't have any of the grease with me right now, it was a white, thick grease). It's your own choice here, I'd try it without grease first, if the targets seem to drop fine when we get it together, then don't worry about it.
# Put a washer on the top post again, this washer and the previous washer should sandwich the plastic drop target on the upper post.
# Place a small spring on the upper post of each drop target.
# Place the last washer on each of the three posts. This washer and the previous one will sandwich the spring on the upper post.
# Clip an E clip onto each post (all six)
# Hook up the 'pull down' spring to the side of each target to the little tooth on the metal assembly.
# Now, manual pull up each target and flick it with your finger, If they don't drop quick, then you can either shorten it's pull down spring to make it pull harder or try adding a dab of grease as mentioned above. Mine worked super without any grease or modification of the pull down spring!
I'm not sure, maybe instead of grease, if you're having slow targets, try a dry lubricant like graphite powder. Just an afterthought. I've never tried it myself.
# Put the opto circuit board back on. Make sure the optos are facing the drop targets (not facing out!), and the connector pins are facing down.
# Put two washers on the bottom two shafts.
# Put the three E clips on the shafts securing the opto board in place.
# place the reset plate/solenoid shaft in the assembly, Make sure the reset 'fingers' are under each plastic target. (pull the targets up)
# Go to the machine and cleanup the solenoid and its sleeve. The sleeve goes in so that the part of the sleeve that protrudes out of the coil, protrudes out of the side of the coil where the wire lugs are.
# Take the drop target assembly to the machine and put the coil back into the assembly, taking care that the reset plate fingers are always under the drop targets and not in the little oval part of the drop target. (pull the targets up)
# Sandwich the coil into the assembly with the coil bracket and put the nuts back on and tighten them up! Make sure the coil lugs are on the bottom side and facing out (not to the side). Test your work by simulating a coil energizing. Pull up on the reset plate and flick the targets down with your finger. Should work smoothly.
# Slide the drop target assembly back under the ENT targets and screw it back into the playfield. Plug the connector back into the opto circuit board.
# I've found it necessary for IJ to put a rubber band or loosely zipped zip-tie around the drop target adjustment screws and around the opto board connector. This places a little pressure on the optos so they are closer to the drop target plastics. I've had problems such that the optos were just not close enough to the drop targets and a little vibration in the game would trigger the switch (when the target was down, the vibration would cause the opto to trigger because it wasn't close enough to the plastic drop target).
# Clean the pop bumper contact switches. Put a rough piece of paper (like a slice of a business card) in between the contacts and squeeze the switch closed and rub the paper a few times (at least until the paper stops picking up dirt). There is one switch under each pop bumper (3 switches total).
# Remove the three screws that hold the single drop target under the playfield. There's too many wires holding this sucker in, we'll have to clean it up while it's in the pinball cabinet.
# Remove the pull-down spring.
# Remove the two E clips.
# Under the upper E clip is a washer, spring, and washer.
# Take care not to bend the microswitch actuator arm.
# Remove the drop target plastic.
# My IJ has a washer under BOTH shafts under the drop target, remove them. (where I'm used to seeing only one washer under the upper shaft of drop targets)
# Clean up the washers and springs and drop target plastic.
# Clean up the metal assembly. Take care that your towel doesn't catch on the switch armature and bend it or break it off. Clean up that armature, the metal, the moving shaft into the solenoid. Clean it up as much as you can.
# Put the a washer on each shaft.
# Place the drop target plastic back onto the assembly.
# Place a washer on the top shaft. This will sandwich the drop target plastic between two washers.
# Put the small spring on the top shaft.
# Put the last washer on the top shaft, this will sandwich the small spring between two washers.
# Put an E clip on each shaft.
# Install the pull down spring.
# Test the unit out by pulling up on the reset plate and tapping the 'drop target down' coil magnet. The magnet pulls on a little arm that taps the target down.
# Reinstall the assembly back to the playfield.
# The flippers: For Each flipper:
# I like to work on the flippers with the playfield angled with the side arm propping the playfield in a 45 degree angle.
# Remove the two allen nuts holding on the coil stop bracket. There should be a lock washer on each nut.
# Remove the coil stop bracket and clean it.
# Slide the coil off and clean it up. Put a moist towel through it and clean out the middle (I don't bother removing the sleeve, I just clean it up).
# Here you have several options. Examine the flipper shaft. The tip of it should be beveled in. Over time this bevel flattens out and the shaft starts mushrooming which cause the flipper to go weak. You may want to remove the link and regrind or file a bevel into the shaft (or replace the entire shaft and plastic piece as one part). When removing this part, note the order of nuts and bolts. There is a nut on the inside which you hold on to while unscrewing the allen bolt. The order of parts would be: Allen bolt, washer, One side of the metal bracket, the flipper plastic piece, there’s a small round bearing inside this, the other side of the metal bracket, a washer, a lock-washer, and the nut. My flipper shafts looked good so I'm just cleaning it without removing it.
# Clean up the metal plate and flipper parts.
# Slide the coil back on.
# Put the coil stop bracket back on.
# Tighten it down with the two allen nuts and lock washers.
# Tighten down the 8 hex wood screws that hold the flipper plate to the playfield.
# Manually flip the flipper up and make sure it closes the EOS switch. When doing this push on the metal shaft only, if you push on the plastic part it won't properly simulate a 'flip', this is because of any looseness in the pivot points, when the coil energizes it pulls in on the metal shaft...and well its physics, just push on the end of the metal shaft to properly simulate a 'flip'.
# Repeat above for other flipper.
This concludes the second stage

=== STAGE 3: Playfield Prep ===

Basically, this stage consists of replacing the metal parts, posts, lights and rubber rings. Be sure to take your time and don't rush things. I am going to describe putting parts back on in the exact opposite order that we removed them.
This stage is really just the start of the re-assembly process. I'm breaking the re-assembly process into two stages.
Use your 'pins and posts' diagram that you should have filled out in Stage one to locate where the pins are supposed to go where and with what type of screw down.
# Clean and install the 8 posts that are held to the playfield with a washer and nut on the underside. (two go by 'Start mode' entrance, two by idol lock entrance, two by each ramp entrance, etc). Make sure you put the post through the top of the playfield and on the underside goes a washer and a nut.
# Clean up and install the under playfield tunnel from lock shot to idol. 5 wood screws and one machine screw which I had re-screwed into the playfield. I used Q-tips to clean the optos on this part.
# Clean and install large U shaped loop metal. Remember a short phillips screw went into right side. Under that thin flap, the lower flap will curve in and a small metal post will fit into a guide hole. 7 hex wood screws and the short phillips.
# Clean and install the little metal ramp at end of shooter lane. The top end of this piece fits under the metal loop piece we just installed and the other end needs two small flat-head phillips screws.
# Install the remaining metal ball guide pieces. This part is like a puzzle. When you find one that has a nut that needs to be put on the other side of the playfield, raise the playfield and install the washer and nut. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN these nuts, just make them snug, it is very easy to over tighten them and the metal piece cuts into the playfield. The remaining metal pieces use hex wood screws (and washer and nut on underside of playfield). I'll list the order of these pieces in the order that I put them back on (clean before installing):
# Remember if a wood screw strips out, fill the hole with broken toothpick(s) and try again.
# Longer straight piece in between idol and shooter lane. 2 hex wood screws.
# Small bracket into playfield wood back panel for right ramp. 2 long hex screws.
# Curved piece for 'Lock' shot area. 2 hex wood screws.
# Short metal piece just to right of 'Super Jackpot' lamp. 1 hex wood screw.
# Angled piece that goes around 'Start Mode' saucer. 3 hex wood screws.
# Angled piece under mini-playfield. 3 hex wood screws.
# Small curved piece just behind single narrow standup target. 2 hex wood screws.
# Small angled piece under mini-playfield. 2 hex wood screws.
# Curved scoop for lock shot. 2 hex wood screws.
# Curved scoop for start mode shot. 3 hex wood screws.
# Long hex nut and washer that screws into playfield in upper left corner area.
# Idol Exit ramp. Four nuts go with a washer. Fifth nut goes uses the end of the right playfield support arm instead of a washer. Remember to screw down the right side playfield support arm here. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
# Metal guide piece to left of left outlane. 2 wood hex screws. One nut under playfield with the end of left support arm as a washer. (no washer, just the nut and the end of the support arm). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
# V-shaped piece just to left of INDY lights. 2 wood hex screws and one nut with washer under playfield. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
# Long curved piece inside right loop shot. 4 wood hex screws. 1 nut and washer under playfield. No over tighten.
# Triangle shaped piece under right ramp. 1 hex wood screw. 1 nut and washer under playfield. No over tighten.
# Short piece just above previous piece. 2 wood hex screws.
# Short piece just to left of 'super jackpot' lamp. 1 wood hex screws, One nut and washer under playfield. No over tighten.
# Turn machine on.
# Clean and install each light bulb (and flasher light bulb) back into their sockets. If a bulb is black just throw it away and install a new one, black bulbs mean they are just about to go out (if they even work at all). If a bulb doesn't work as you install it, take it out and put in a good one. (this is why I turned the machine on).
# General Illumination: Make sure all light just installed works (except flashers, for now).
# All lights in backbox should be on (except flashers)
# The pop-bumper lights should be on.
# The two coin door lights should be on.
# The two 'Hand of Fate' lights above each inlane should be on. (they are GI lights)
# Controlled lights: Put machine in 'single lamp' test mode and verify that each light works individually. (Make sure that other lamps don't blink when they are not supposed to). If a light doesn't work, replace it!
# Flasher test. Go to flasher test and make sure each playfield flasher works when it is supposed to in the test. REMEMBER: Install the yellow door switch closer part or close the coin door whenever you want to see if a particular flasher is working. Note, 'lite jackpot' and 'left ramp' flashers won't appear to work because they aren't installed yet! Also note, the 'left side' should flash two flashers on left side of playfield. The 'super ball' should flash the super ball button by the start button.
# Since I'm not sure what backbox flashers are tied to which playfield flashers, now put it in "all lamps and flashers" test and make sure ever flasher in the backbox blinks, also double check that the every playfield flasher is flashing also.
# Clean up the star posts. I spend a good long time cleaning up the grime from the little cracks and crevasses. It may take a good amount of scrubbing, but it's worth it in the long run.
# Use the 'post map' you made during disassembly and now clean and replace every post. If a wood screw type of post strips out and doesn't tighten down, shove some toothpicks into the stripped out hole and break them so that the hole is filled with broken toothpicks (round toothpicks, are fatter and better than flat ones). The post should tighten against the toothpicks in the hole. I tightened the posts pretty good. Be careful with the plastic star posts, they can break with too much tightening.
# Clean and install the controlled gates at the top of the playfield. Be sure to route the control spring through the center hole, then onto the little arm. Then screw it down, two hex wood screws each.
# Install rubbers. Either clean up the ones you've removed previously or install new ones, whatever is most convenient for you. Use page 2-52 from the manual as a guide. Note that rubber 'A' for the mini-playfield and the INDY lane dividers will be installed in a later step.
I have a copy of the manual page on my web page (with corrections).
# Note, brand new flipper rubbers are a round circle. Sometimes people are surprised how much stretching is necessary to install a new flipper rubber (and people are surprised that it is round, and not the shape of a flipper bat).
# Note I have parts 'C' and 'D' combined. I have 12 BLACK rubber sleeves instead of 10 black and 2 yellow (the two yellow are supposed to go up at the captive ball area.
# See the page that I scanned for corrections to the rubber map. There should be 17 'A's, 12 for the INDY lanes and mini-playfield, 5 for main playfield. 2 on the left and 3 on the right. I added the extra 'A's to the picture.
# The manual shows two 'I's, One is to the right of the lower pop-bumper. The other is supposed to go in the right side inlane/outlane divider above the 'last chance' gate. I've found it a much better idea to just use 1 'I', the one by the pop-bumper. By the 'last chance' gate, I've found it better to use two separate 3/16" rubber bumpers-one on each post just above the 'last chance' gate.
# Put machine in 'switch test' and check the sling shot switches. Adjust them to your favorite setting. Be sure to bend the metal blades at their base not up at the ends.
# While in switch test mode, check pop bumper switches. Touch the pop-bumper actuator disk and see if the machine recognizes the switch. I like these to be super sensitive. To adjust, bend the blade switch below the playfield for each pop bumper. I adjusted all three of mine so they 'pop' when the actuator disk is pressed down just a tiny bit. I like the sling shot's to me a 'medium' sensitivity.
You should also hit every playfield switch while in switch mode (in above step). Make sure the machine recognizes switches properly.
# This is the end of the playfield prep stage. We're now ready for re-assembly!

=== STAGE 4: Re-Assembly ===

NOTE: Check this... Look down the ball shooter lane. The metal on the left side of this lane... make sure the long metal flap goes on the INSIDE of the idol exit ramp. I had messed up and forgot to do this.
Yeah! We're here. Don't get too excited now, this will take time. Do not rush it! We're going to clean and install all of the main playfield parts in the exact opposite order we removed them. Give time and attention to each and every part. Clean all sides of everything.
I used 409 for the plastics, and 409 with a buffing of playfield cleaner on the ramps.
USE CAUTION. Do not over tighten the nuts. They have a plastic liner so they won't vibrate out. Just tighten them until they touch the plastic, that's enough they won't get loose. Plastics can get expensive to replace if you crack them.
# Clean up and install the dark orange piece to the left of the idol assembly. One nut at top, a machine screw in the middle and the long shaft piece on the bottom. Do not over tighten.
# Clean up the yellow idol 'cup' part. (the part that holds the idol head). Clean all over including around the opto. Be sure to hit the optos. I used a q-tip to clean the hole where the shaft goes through and the slot where the exit control gate goes through. I used a little Novus to help get the dirt off.
# Installing the idol 'cup'. Feed wires through hole in the playfield. Put cup in its place, feed the exit gate through the slot in the cup. Raise playfield. Get each of the 3 long threaded screws started into a hole. Take care in trying to get the threads matched up. Screw them in. The screws should turn fairly easily, if it’s tough to turn then you're starting new thread, unscrew and start the screw again. Once you're confident you're using the original threading in the plastic, tighten them down. Just before you tighten all the way, lower playfield and see how the entrance is lined up with the exit hole from the metal popper. There is a little play that allows you to line them up as you tighten the cup down. Tighten it down lined up with the metal popper. (If it won't line up, try to loosen the popper from under the playfield and see if you can move it a little and tighten it back). Be firm, but don't crank the screws, this part is probably VERY expensive; the plastic will crack if you're not careful.
# Once installed, manually pull the idol exit gate solenoid, make sure there is nothing binding and that is moves up and down without any obstructions.
# Clean up the idol motor assembly. Mainly clean: dirt around motor, optos (3 optos = 6 parts), the shaft, and the rotating disk. Check the tiny circuit boards on each opto, if any are loose, tighten them with a little phillips screwdriver. Install this part, three screws (phillips, I believe, if I discover later it's hex nuts, I'll change this line). If you just tighten down the part how it is, gravity will be pulling it down and the shaft will be pressing against the top of the yellow part a little. Try to tighten this motor down centered (as much as you can, there's not much play (if any)).
I made a 'note' during disassembly for you to make a note of the type of screw for the idol motor assembly. Use the proper screw now in above step (either hex or phillips head).
# Clean the idol head. I used Windex because 409 may be too strong and remove the gold finish. You may even want to use soapy water. I rubbed hard on the 'legs' and it removed some of the gold down there. Actually some of the dirt adds to the idol's appearance. So clean this part at your own discretion.
I recommend using soapy water. I don't want to get in trouble for even suggesting using Windex which may cause the gold to come off.
# Check the three hex nuts under the idol head part, I had to tighten them a little because they were a little loose and the metal part was a tad loose.
# Install this part against the shaft. The shaft should still be facing with flat part to front of machine. The allen set screw screws into the flat part of the shaft. Pull the idol exit plastic down and tighten with an allen wrench. As the allen screw tightens it will go flush against the flat part of the shaft and the idol should line up as it tightens. The allen set screw only turns a tiny bit to 'tighten'.
# Clean up the two idol cover pieces. Check the flasher lamp (I used an ohm meter) and replace if it’s bad. Place the two pieces over the idol where they belong, run the wire though the hole just above the metal idol popper part. Install the screws, I had four black screws (one of which served to screw the two pieces together). The three black machine screws had little washers under them also. Just barely tighten these screws down! The plastic is just dying to crack! Just barely tighten it or the plastic will crack, it's very thin by the edges!
UPDATE: It appears here is where you would want to clean and install the ‘Lost Plastic’ piece on the rear wood panel of the playfield. Remember, I don’t actually have this plastic, I’m just going by observation that this is when is a good time to put it on.
# Clean and install the green plastic in upper right corner of playfield. Two hex wood screws in playfield edge and one nut. Just snug, this plastic isn't going anywhere.
# Clean the single target for the captive ball, it's dangling in the back of the playfield. It shouldn't be that dirty.
# Clean the captive ball railing tube.
# Clean the captive ball opto and bracket. If the opto circuit boards are loose, tighten them with little phillips screwdriver.
# Insert captive ball rail tube into back of playfield.
Don't 'Install' this part yet, just loosely put it where it should go.
# Insert opto wires through hole under captive ball area. Put the opto assembly around the railing so that the white opto part is on the left side and the black part with the protective flap is on the right of the rail tube. The optos and wires surround the tube.
# Clean and install the captive ball into the rail tube.
# Here's the tricky part. While holding the ball in the tube and keeping the opto assembly surrounding the tube, we need to place the tube in place. The little round part at the top needs to be on the front side of the back playfield panel and the lower round parts need to go around the long threaded shafts. I've found that it's best to have the top round wire part in front of the back panel while forcing the bottom part onto the threaded parts. The bottom 'fingers' of the tube squeezed between the two rubber sleeves. Also, the back panel can angle back a tiny bit giving more room.
# Screw the back standup target to the tube from behind the back panel. The targets metal flap goes below the tube's flap. The screw base touches the target and the threads grab onto the tube's flap. These two screws are unique on my machine, they are short hex machine screws with a phillips slot on top.
# Put the opto assembly over the two threaded parts where it's supposed to go.
# Tighten it down with two nuts. Put a long hex machine screw into the back panel of the playfield holding the rail tube in.
I had made an note during disassembly that I wasn't sure if I originally had a washer under this screw or not. Be sure to include one if you had removed one, don't if you didn't have one originally. I'm leaning more towards 'no washer'.
# At this time, take the four red light hoods and 8 star posts aside and clean them up. I spent a good amount of time cleaning up those star posts, it's worth it in the long run (getting all of that gunk out of their cracks and crevasses) .
# Install the 8 rubbers onto each star post. Rubber type A in the list. I put the rubber around the tip of needle-nose pliers and then force the pliers open then put the post around the stretched rubber. However you find is good, as long as you get the rubber around the post.
# Install the far right light hood/2 posts assembly. Top is a wood screw post with threading on the top. Bottom is a phillips machine screw. Be firm, but be aware that to much tightening will cause the red plastic to crack.
# (Installing the remaining three dividers will be out of order from how we disassembled it, but it's okay).
# Install the middle two dividers/posts. They have phillips wood screws on top and phillips machine screws on bottom. Take caution with tightening these as the red plastics will easily crack, however if they are too loose you'll notice them move around when the ball hits them. Use good judgement.
# Install the far left divider/posts. On top is the wood screw piece with threads and a very long hex post screwed into it. On bottom is a phillips machine screw. Remember, not too tight.
# Clean and install the plastic just to right of INDY lanes. It's a two layered plastic. One nut and one hex machine screw.
# Clean and install the little metal 'flap' just above the plastic previously installed. It uses two long hex machine screws through the back panel.
# Clean and install the two plastics that go under right ramp, don't screw or bolt them in yet. The one on bottom is single layered and the one on top has three layers.
# Clean and install the metal U or V shaped piece just over the previously installed two plastics.
# Now screw down the previously three installed parts (two plastics and one metal). Three hex machine screws and two nuts. Again...don't tighten them too much.
# Cleanup the right ramp assembly. Clean it all up including both sides, the green flasher plastic and the plane. Test the flasher light to make sure it works (I used an ohm meter). I used a q-tip to clean up the switch arm. Also, use a q-tip to clean around the opto areas. I also went crazy and removed both metal guards and cleaned up under them and re-installed them. I used a little Novus #1 on it too.
# Installing right ramp: Feed wires through the hole where the ramp goes and place ramp in place. Install three machine screws at top into the bracket, two tiny flat-head phillips screws at bottom and two hex machine screws at the bottom sides. Remember snug, too tight will break plastics.
# Clean and install the right ramp diverter. Remember to leave the washers on the shaft as you install it. Poke it through the hole in the ramp, and playfield. You may find it necessary to reach your hand around the back of the playfield and touch the plastic washer on the bracket under the playfield to get an idea of where it's hitting it. Move it around until it pokes through the washer under the playfield and is in it's 'normal' position.
# Clean and re-screw the plastic that goes on the right ramp, the plastic that covers the diverter. Be careful not to strip the plastic holes.
# Clean and install the left and right pop bumper caps (not the center lower one though). Clean both sides of the pop bumper cap. The screws are tiny phillips with rounded (not flat) heads.
# NOTE: If you're having trouble with the ball not staying in the saucer on a direct shot to it, now is the time to repair it. Clean and install the left and right inlane/outlane dividers (process described in a later step below) and roll the ball down the inlane and take practice shots to the start mode saucer. If it doesn't 'stick' in the saucer then unscrew the saucer metal backing and bend it around and re-install. Try again. Keep bending the back plate until it keeps the ball in the saucer and can kick it out too. Mine is in a sort of 'S' shape to deflect the ball downwards when it the ball hits it.
# Clean and install the plastic that goes above the 'start mode' saucer. Not too tight, this plastic is just dying to crack. Two hex machine screws.
# Clean and install the plastic that goes above the previously installed plastic (under where mini-playfield goes). This is a two layered plastic. Three nuts (they are lined with plastic, so why tighten? They won't unscrew...). Screw until flush with the plastic.
I see now that the above sentence is misleading. ALL nuts installed thus far have been lined with a nylon plastic. It was late and I typed that as just another reason why not to over-tighten any of the nuts.
# Cleanup the left ramp assembly. While cleaning you should remove the plastic on it (two hex machine screws) and clean it up and re-install it. Clean it all up and be sure to get the green flasher plastic. I used a moist q-tip to clean the entire switch actuator arm. Test the flashers in it, I used an ohm meter to make sure the bulbs are good. Clean the opto parts with a q-tip. If the little opto circuit boards are loose, tighten them with tiny phillips screwdriver.
# Installing the left ramp: route wires through hole just to right of the left ramp entrance. Screw in the two tiny flat-head phillips screws at the ramp entrance and a hex machine screw at the top. In my bucket of screws and nuts I have a couple hex machine screws that are half as short as the rest, this is where I think this screw goes... At the top of the left ramp into the long hex shaft coming out of the left INDY divider.
I had made a note during disassembly about these two shorter hex machine screws, you may want to check your notes to see if you wrote down exactly where these two screws are 'supposed' to go.
# Clean and install the plastic in the center of the playfield. The 'Raise jackpot when flashing' plastic. This is a two layer plastic. ONLY screw in the nut that hides under the second layer of plastic for now. The rest of the screws will be put in later to hold down the ramps and airplane. ...Okay, I see the hex machine screw just to the right of the left ramp entrance can go in too, but mine was broken off so I didn't notice it. I just put a hex machine screw into the post there. ...this is where I put the second hex machine screw that's half as long as the rest.
# Clean and install the lower pop-bumper cap now. Two tiny phillips screws.
# Clean and install the little plastic just to the right of the right outlane. (Do I really need to say 'Not too tight' anymore? I'm sure you get the point). Two hex wood screws in the wood edging.
# Cleanup the right side inlane/outlane divider (separate the 'last chance' gate from the main three level plastic part). You don't really have to separate the three layers of plastics, just be sure to do a thorough cleaning of the part all over. Screw the three long screws into the playfield. First get each screw's thread started, then finish tightening them down. It is easy to cross thread these screws, so care it needed to make sure you use the original threads in the playfield.
It's really not that hard to separate the three level plastics, I'd just do it. You'll get a better cleaning of these parts. These plastics are the most commonly 'looked at' by people, so get them all clean. Separate them, clean them, then re-attach them.
# just before tightening these three screws all the way down, you may want to put the playfield in the cabinet in 'play' position and practice rolling a ball down the inlane divider. Make sure the ball doesn't 'bounce' as it rolls from this part and onto the flipper bat. The transition should be as smooth as possible. So just before tightening this part to the playfield, there is a tiny big of movement that you can do the part to get it adjusted just right, then tighten it down...in a place that ball rolls down it and onto the flipper smoothly.
# Clean the post that goes above the 'last chance' gate. Install the second 3/16" rubber onto this post.
# Clean the 'last chance' gate. Clean it all over including the wire-form and the corners where dirt builds up.
# Install the 'last chance' gate and post into the playfield. Phillips wood screw on top (with the post with rubber) and phililps machine screw on bottom that goes through the bottom of the 3-level plastic part.
# Right side sling shot cover plastic: Clean it up, both sides. Now, I put fender washers under the corners of the sling shot plastics to protect them from getting broken off by the ball. Williams is doing this now with all new pins. A fender washer is a washer with a small hole in the center, but is very large in diameter (imagine a silver dollar with a small hole in center). I went to a hardware store with the actual plastic and found some fender washers that were just right, just a tiny bit larger than the diameter of the plastic's corners (I don't know or remember the actual size, sorry). This way the washer won't stand out too much, yet it will protect the plastic. Even if your plastics are already broken on a corner or two, I'd still install these washers because they 'complete' the look of the sling shot, the washer, being almost the same size of the plastic, give a continuous look to the plastic and give it a well rounded appearance even when it's actually broken and jagged.
# Put a fender washer on both corners of the right side slingshot (2 washers total, here). Install the right side slingshot plastic over them. Install just the lower nut for now. As you tighten the nut, you can adjust the fender washer as there is some play in it. Don't tighten too much.
# Clean the right side metal ball 'rail ramp' or 'habitrail' ramp. Yes the rails get dirty. You'll notice a difference if you clean up a dirty rail ramp.
# Install the right 'habitrail' ramp. Insert the top part into the right ramp and put into place with the bottom loop part over the right slingshot post. I used a hex machine nut with small washer on the middle part (the washer keeps the force of the screw from trying to separate the railing). I used a washer and a nut on the bottom part. (the nut is a larger one, and a washer helps disperse the downward force of the nut over the railing).
# Clean the three level, left side inlane/outlane divider. (just like before with the right side).
# Install this left side inlane/outlane divider piece. Remember to get all three threads started before completely tightening down any one screw. Then tighten all three down.

=== THE MINI PLAYFIELD: ===

# At first I was going to remove the red sidings and everything like I did the main playfield, but I don't see that necessary here. There's no gunk in the edges by the red plastic and it's not worth risking stripping out any of the screw holes in the red plastic, I'm sure it's expensive.
# Examine the underside, make sure all screws are there. I was missing a screw on one of the brackets. Tighten down the bracket screws (the four phillips screws...one near each corner).
# Clean each opto part with a moist q-tip. 2 opto switches=4 opto parts.
# You know that the lower right switch gets bent and causes a 'row short' of switches, it is a good idea to insulate the posts so they won't conduct if they are touching. Cut some small pieces of electrical tape and wrap around the diode and switch lugs for the bottom right switch. (Please CUT the electrical tape, if you stretch and tear it, over time, it will try to shrink back to it's original size and unwrap). I ended up only taping the lowest switch lug, as it appears to be the only one that gets bent on my machine.
# Remove the two sets of red 'light hood' and two star posts on the top side of the mini playfield. Two hoods and four posts. I find it easiest to sit in a chair and work with the playfield in between my legs.
# Clean up the posts and install new/cleaned rubbers on them.
# Clean up the red light hoods.
# Clean the mini playfield. It's best not to spray cleaners directly on its surface, rather spray a cloth or paper towel, and rub the towel on the playfield. This is because fluids may get trapped under the red plastic sides or go down the light holes.
I used 409 first, then finished with Novus #1.
# Clean the red edging.
# Clean (or just 'wipe') the underside silver brackets and silver sides by the optos.
# Replace any of the 12 light bulbs that show any 'blackening' signs. A blackened light bulb is about to die if it isn't already dead.
# Raise the main playfield.
# Temporarily plug the mini-playfield into it's proper connectors. You'll have to hold the playfield in your hand while accessing the test menus in the next step. There are three connectors, make sure the colors match up as two connectors have same pin configuration, just different colored wires. Verify that all 12 lamps work (in attract mode is good enough).
# -Put machine in 'switch test' Manually activate every switch and make sure all 10 switches register properly especially the two opto switches.
# Unplug the mini-playfield.
# Re-install the two light hood and star posts parts. There are two long phillips wood screws per light hood.
# Lower the main playfield (and leave in 'pulled out and latched' position).
INSTALLING THE MINI-PLAYFIELD:
# Feed three wire connectors through the hole under where the mini-playfield is going to go.
# Carefully slide the top of the mini-playfield onto the moto shaft in the rear of the playfield. You can see the marks on the shaft where the set screw is supposed to be tightened down at, push the playfield up to the same spot. Sometimes it is necessary to push on the rear playfield panel a little to make the shaft point up higher so the mini-playfield slides on easier.
# Put in the two screws for the front bracket to the playfields. It should be two hex machine screws with the little star washer around it's neck. Not the super long ones (the longest ones will be for going through the back playfield panel)
I'm not totally sure if the above are supposed to be hex or phillips head, depends on what type of screw you used for the idol motor bracket. I made a note to make sure you get the idol motor bracket screws 'right', so you should have remaining, the 'right' screws for this job. I'm leaning toward 'hex' being the 'right' ones.
# Tighten down the set screw (tiny allen screw). It should tighten against the flat part of the shaft which will line up the mini-playfield how it's supposed to go.
# Clean up the metal mini-playfield exit guide piece. It goes just to the left of the ADV targets.
# Install this part. It's the same screw used for the lower mini-playfield bracket. Two of them. After tightening it down, visually inspect to make sure the is a small gap between the bottom edge of the mini-playfield and this part. We don't want the mini-playfield to hit this piece when it tilts left. If there is no gap, the mini-playfield needs to go onto the motor shaft some more, or this part can be bent downwards just a tad. (bending it to the front of the playfield to get a gap between it and the mini-playfield, although I think it's best to avoid bending it. Try moving the mini-playfield onto the motor shaft first).
# Clean and install the green, two level plastic that goes over the left of ADV targets. Two nuts and two hex wood screws in the edge of the playfield. Don't over-tighten! (My plastic is cracked at the top part from somebody over-tightening it or a ball hitting it).
# Clean and install the metal 'gutter' to the left of the mini-playfield. My machines uses two machine screws (one fat, one thin) I've seen a machine that used one machine screw at top and a wood or sheet metal screw on the bottom. I thought it was two hex machine screws, but unfortunately I don't have any left in my bucket of screws, so I'm using a phillips with washer on the top, and a hex machine screw on bottom.
Note: I should have enough 'updates' that you should have the proper screws for this by now. I had ended up going to a hardware store and getting some more hex head machine screws.
# Clean up the metal 'bridge' piece. It's a good idea to remove the two plastics from this piece during cleaning. Clean them and re-install when the part is clean.
# Feed the cable of the bridge part through the little hole in the back panel of the playfield. Set the bridge in place. Make sure the 'release post' comes through the hole in the bridge and that the bridge entrance is below the right ramp lip. Tighten this part to the backbox with the three long hex machine screws with star washers on their necks. NOTE: My IJ only has the top two machine screws installed, somebody decided that the bottom, 3rd screw is too much of a pain and left it out. Just before getting the bridge tightened down, manually reach behind and under he playfield and pull the 'release post' down. Make sure it pops up freely. You can shift the bridge left and right until you feel it is centered about the post. If, in the future during game play the post 'sticks' down, the loosen and shift this bridge over some.
# Clean and install the think green plastic. Do not put nuts on yet.
# Clean curved metal guard piece and place over green plastic just installed. NOW install the nuts. The top one needs to be fairly tight, otherwise the ball will stick on it (the ball will be rolling right over the top of it).
# Install two fender washers on left sling shot posts. One for each corner. See previous discussion above about fender washers for the right slingshot.
# Clean and install left slingshot cover. Only put on the bottom nut for now.
# Clean and install the short gold colored ramp piece for the mini# playfield exit. To keep the ball from hitting the top nut that it rolls over while going down the habitrail, I put two washers on the slingshot plastic post, then the ramp. This elevates the ramp a tiny bit higher. I then put a washer on top and a nut. This allowed the ball to clear the nut.
# Clean and install the left ramp habitrail. Feed the top part into the left ramp first. Then set it in place. I used a hex machine screw with a washer in the middle and a washer and a nut on the lower end (on the left slingshot). The washers help disperse the force and keep the nut or screw from expanding the metal loop.
# NOTE: I seem to only have phillips machine screws left, no more hex style. I'm not sure where the small phillips are 'supposed' to go, but I'm going to use it for the plane...
# Clean and install the while airplane. It's a pain to clean, but possible. Don't forget to clean it's propeller and metal support bracket. Don't accidentally install it with the rear wire support going 'through' the habitrail ramp, it should be along it's side. We don't want the ball hanging on it.
# Clean and install the three parts that make up the front of the playfield that the apron screws down onto. All hex wood screws.
# Clean and install the two metal pieces to the left and right of the shooter coil. Hex wood screws.
# Remove the two instruction cards and their plastic coverings from the apron. Clean the apron. I urge you to use only warm water. I've seen many times where cleaners (409 specifically) caused the artwork on the apron to smear or fade (while cleaning other pins). Don't forget to shine up the metal railing screwed to it also. Clean the instruction card plastic covers (I just wipe them a little). Install the instruction and score cards with their plastic covers. I have just make it a rule not to touch the instruction card front. Not even to wipe off dust. It's too easy to get a dirty fingerprint on it which will be visible forever.
# Place the apron on the game and screw it down. Four phillips machine screws with star washers.
# Raise the playfield.
# Install the right ramp diverter shaft and spring. There's a large spring that goes around the shaft (which enters the coil), and a small spring that holds the two parts together as a unit. First insert the shaft into the coil (remember to have the spring around the shaft). Now turn it and slide it onto the bottom of the ramp diverter. Put the big part closest to the playfield, the metal 'flap' on it is facing out. Put it onto the shaft with a little of the shaft sticking through. The allen set screw should be facing to the left of the machine. Tighten the allen set screw against the flat side of the diverter shaft. As it tightens it will go flush against the flat part and should be automatically adjusted.
# Make sure game is off.
# Plug the wires from the idol motor into the little circuit board under the right inlane. It's a two wire connector. Wrap the wires through the plastic clips so it's neat and out of the way.
# Now, plug in all 21 connectors that we originally unplugged. By now, we should be more familiar with what these plugs are. Be sure the wire colors match, sometimes two identical connectors are next together, just the wire colors are different. Wrap these around nearby clips so they are neat and out of the way. Sometimes the colors are the same, but the configuration of them is different. (especially on the 3 pin connectors).
# Lower the playfield. Turn on game.
# Put machine in switch test mode. Verify the 10 switches on the mini playfield work.
# Verify the ramp entry and 'ramp made' switches work.
# Verify the switch by the mini-playfield entrance works. (switch on the 'bridge')
# Verify the opto switch at the idol entrance works.
# Verify the idol exit ramp switch works.
# Put machine in flasher test and verify the ramp flashers and idol area flasher works. Remember the high-voltage enable switch behind the coin door. Be sure to check each flasher individually, even I accidentally plugged two flashers in backwards (actually I reversed the airplane flashers LEDs and the right idol area flasher).
# Put machine in 'mini playfield test' and verify it moves left and right properly and reports no errors.
# Put machine in idol test and verify it reports no errors.
# At this point I did a quick spray of Novus #1 and wiped the main playfield area, just a quick final shining. Don't do this with Wildcat or Novus #2, we don't want any white stuff getting in the nice clean star posts now!
This is the end of Stage 4, re-assembly

=== STAGE 5: CLEANING THE CABINET ===
# Raise the playfield. Clean up the inside of the cabinet. Wipe the speaker and big transformer. Clean up to your pleasing. I even got out the vacuum and sucked up the dust.
# Try to clean up the metal part in front, the piece with 'Inspected by' and 'Install 6 balls' stickers on it.
# Put the playfield back into the cabinet.
# Clean and install the 6 balls.
# Clean both sides of the glass and install it. (I just put the glass on, clean one side, then take glass out and turn it around and reinstall it, then clean again (the other side)).
# Install backglass and clean entire front of backbox. The backglass, speaker panel and wood edging (be careful of splinters).
# Clean up all sides of the game. Including the top of the backbox and the front. Around the gun, the coin door, the back of the game. Clean the legs. Check for gum stuck to the bottom and remove it.
That's it! Have a beer or your favourite non-alcoholic beverage and enjoy your Indiana Jones!

By: Garrett Lee, mrglee@yahoo.com
Date: March 31, 1999 (Updated September 1, 1999)

Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure Shop Guide

2012-06-14T22:10:44Z

Loupz:

===INDIANA JONES RESTORATION GUIDE===

BY

GARRET LEE

MARCH 31,1999

=== Cleaning your Indiana Jones Pinball Machine ===

These documents describe how to completely and thoroughly 'shop out' your Indiana Jones (IJ) pinball machine. 'Shop out' is an amusement industry term which means to go through a machine and make sure its working 100% and ready to be placed on location to make money.
I am going to describe, in detail, how to completely take apart your IJ, cleaning and checking various parts, and putting it back together. I will include several tips that I've learned in my past 6 years of shopping out pins for a living. The cleaning that I will describe will be even more detailed than I do when I shop out pins for my company. You should only need to do this detailed of a cleaning once in a great while. Later, only quick playfield cleaning will be necessary depending on the amount of use your IJ gets.

This process will take time, please don't cut any corners. In the end you will have a great sense of satisfaction knowing that your IJ is in 100% condition. After this cleaning it should be 100% factory condition except for playfield wear and any broken plastics. This is how I shop out pins, if you have any problems or questions with the process, please email me.

I wrote these documents while actually shopping out my IJ. It took me several days, working a couple hours per day. Since I wrote down everything I've done while actually shopping out my IJ, these documents are meant to be a checklist for you as you shop out yours along with me. Go through every step, in the same order I've done mine. If you get stuck, email me, I'll be happy to walk you through any steps. I have a digital camera and can even take pictures of my IJ to illustrate any points that may be unclear. I'm just an ordinary guy like yourself, don't be bashful, let me know if you have any problems in your shopping out process.

I would like to mention, here, that I own a regular USA production Indiana Jones. If you own that was made for another country, it may be different in that it probably has a different software version and the coin door on the front of the machine is probably a different style. It's also wired for your voltage system.

My Indiana Jones is not a prototype model. You may own a prototype model, which is a little bit different than the regular production model. Here's a list of differences that I know about…
# Prototype has gold/bronze colored (metal?) side rails on the tilting mini-playfield. Production model has red plastic here.
# Prototype has 'Lost Plastic' plastic along the entire back wood panel of the playfield. Production has no plastic back there. I'll include a note during the shop-out about when I think you'd want to remove this plastic and when to re-install it. There's a picture of this plastic on the Stage 1 page.
# Prototype has three blinking lights on the speaker panel just underneath the dot-matrix-display. These lamps are tied in with the same jackpot lamps in the middle of the playfield. Production models have the graphic on the speaker panel plastic, but no lamps behind them, just solid wood.

That's all of the differences I can think of right now! I have heard there was a beautiful plastic designed for underneath the right ramp. If your IJ has a beautiful plastic under the right ramp, then you really have a unique piece. Most Indiana Jones' have a plain, yellow with tan 'bricks' colored piece here.

Specifically, this shop out took me around 25 hours. I put in about 3 or 4 hours per night, plus a whole day that I had off from work. If you have a digital camera, you may find it useful to take pictures of the playfield as you disassemble it. My pictures do not really show specifics, you may want to take close-up pictures of the different assemblies before you remove them.
I've written some steps fairly long. Please read an entire step before doing it. A 'step' is a sentence or group of sentences that start with a '-'. Read the entire step because I get wordy and sometimes re-word the previous sentence which may be better for you to understand.
Just off the top of my head I'm going to list the things that I've made runs to the hardware store for: 409, Windex, tough paper towels (the blue ones), Foam weather-stripping for the stand-up target backing and fender washers for slingshots. Tools: deep socket nut drivers (like screwdrivers except for nuts), The size for the two different size nuts on the slingshots (I can't remember the sizes off hand), and a quarter inch one which had a magnet in it so it would hold the screw while I fed it to its screw-hole. Actually the magnet of this tool was designed to 'hold' different types of screw-heads, but I never used the screw-heads, just the quarter-inch shaft. I also ended up getting some more quarter-inch hex head machine screws as used throughout the machine to screw down plastics.

===STAGE 1: The Disassembly===
First you will need some space to set the parts you remove from the machine. I usually have 3 main piles: Plastics (I put into the coin box), Ramps, and a container for the screws. In this detailed cleaning, we'll also have a 'pile' for playfield metal guides, rubbers, lamps, and posts. If you are not comfortable throwing all of the screws into a container because you may forget what goes where, re-screw them into their holes after you have removed what they hold.
When I finished, I had two sort of unique screws that I wasn't sure where they went. I ended up using them in the center plastic/airplane area. These screws are: Rounded head, phillips screw with star washer, short with same threads as all of the hex head machine screws used throughout the game for plastics. The second screw was a hex head screw with a phillips slot on top, it had a star washer and same threads as before. If you come across these two, be sure to remark to yourself where these two 'unique' screws go. (All the rest of the screws in the machine with this thread have a plain hex head, except for the two that hold the target to the captive ball railing, if I remember correctly).
You'll see how there are really only three or four different types of screws. Some for going into wood, into metal posts, through thick wood (longer ones), and tiny ones for ramps and pop bumper caps.
# Remove glass and backglass and set aside.
# Remove the 6 balls (some may be inside the idol).
# Remove coin box so we can put plastics in it later.
# Raise playfield.
# Unplug all in-wire connectors. Most of the connectors are from above the playfield, there are some from the under playfield tunnel and idol motor also. There's also a connector that comes from out of the rear of the playfield. I've counted 21 connectors that I unplugged on mine. As you unplug connectors that come from above the playfield, make sure that you will later be able to pull from above the playfield and these wires will come out. That is, clip any zip-ties and unwrap the wires from any clips that may impede the wire from being pulled through the playfield.
You may find it VERY convenient to, before unplugging a connector, number the connector. That is put the number on both the male and the female connectors before unplugging them. I'd use a thin felt tip marker and label each 1 through 21 as you unplug them. This way, when you plug them back in, you just have to match up '1 male' with '1 female' and '2 male' with '2 female' and so on. I had a little confusion when I finally finished and tried figuring out where all of the connectors go.
# Unplug the little two wire (red and white) connector from the little circuit board just under the right inlane. This connector is for the idol motor. Unwrap these two wires from the clip so that when we remove the idol motor assembly nothing will be grabbing this wire.
# Locate the solenoid that energizes the right ramp diverter. It's under the right ramp (under the playfield). It's a yellow coil number FL11753-1. Out of this coil is a metal shaft with a spring. This shaft is tied with another little spring to a part that 'screws' to the bottom of the ramp diverter piece. Locate and loosen the set screw in the side of this. It's a small allen (hex) screw which should be 'facing' the left side of the pinball machine. Unscrew this set screw so that we will be able to pull up on the metal ramp diverter later on and pull it out. (When we do so, this piece will fall down in the cabinet).
You may be able to remove this part and spring right now, depends on how much force you feel comfortable in removing it. I said to 'let if fall' when you remove the diverter piece later, it will fall out without any resistance.
# Lower the playfield, leave it in the 'pulled out and latched' position.
# Unscrew the 'apron'. The metal part that covers the ball tough area. There should be four screws holding it down from above, and sometimes two more from the front. Set this aside. Put screws in a container or re-screw them in the holes if you are uncomfortable with mixing the screws. This will apply for now on with all screws.
If your apron screws also had washers, make yourself a little remark about it, mine didn't, but I think I've seen pins with phillips screws with washers.
# Remove the 3 metal pieces that the apron was screwed to. 11 hex wood screws. This will make it easier to completely clean the playfield. For now on, I'll be removing lots of parts people don't ordinarily remove, all for the same reason, a bare playfield will be so much easier to clean.
# Remove metal piece just to the right, in the ball shooter lane. 2 screws.
This piece protector piece for the right side of the shooter lane.
# Remove metal piece just to left of the ball shooter solenoid, 2 screws.
# So far I've been putting the pieces in the coin box. This is a good method of doing things, especially the plastics because it allows stacking of pieces just right. I'll throw the pieces in the coin box and they will pile up in such a way, that when I re-assemble the machine I just have to pick off the top of what's in the coin box. The pieces we take off first will be at the bottom of the cash box, so they will ultimately be the last things I put back on when I re-assemble the machine.
# Remove metal 'guard' piece on lower left side by the left outlane. 2 nuts.
# Remove the two gold colored rail ramps on left side.
# Sometimes, when unscrewing nuts the post underneath will unscrew from the playfield. You'll need to either use needle nose pliers to hold onto the post while unscrewing the nut, or just unscrew the post with the nut and separate them, then put the post back for now.
# NOTE: My IJ doesn't have the German airplane installed. Just remove it now, or when we start removing ramps and plastics in that part of the playfield.
I will document putting the airplane back during re-assembly so don't worry about when to put it back on.
Two more 'unique' screws that I wasn't sure exactly where they were 'supposed' to go... There are many hex head machine screws throughout the game, I had ended up with two of them shorter than the rest. You'll see during re-assembly that I had put them in the left ramp top screw-down, and in the plastic just to the right of the left ramp entrance. You may want to make a special note to yourself if you come across these screws so you know where they are 'supposed' to go.
# Remove left slingshot plastic and any washers. (replace washers just like screws, if you are not comfortable with throwing them all into a container).
# For now on, when I say to remove a plastic, I'm assuming you're going to put it into the coin box.
# Remove the green plastic that was under far left rail ball guide you just removed.
# At top of playfield, remove the metal 'bridge' piece. There's two screws on top and one that's hard to reach on the lower side of it. Note, my IJ didn't have the lower screw installed.
# On left of mini-playfield, remove the metal ball path. 2 screws.
# Remove the green plastic on lower left of playfield (covers ADV targets). You have to remove two nuts, and the two wood screws. The two wood screws can only be unscrewed just a little and the plastic should lift out.
# Remove the ball path guide piece just to the left of the ADV targets.
# Loosen the tiny allen (hex) lock-nut that holds the mini-playfield to the mini-playfield motor shaft. Look at the top part of the mini-playfield. There are two hex nuts to loosen, loosen the one closest to the mini-playfield. The other hex nut holds a metal piece, which moves back and forth between two opto switches (This is how the machine knows when the mini-playfield is tilted left or right.
# Remove two nuts that holds the lower part of mini-playfield to the playfield. These nuts are near the lower part of the mini playfield through a piece of metal that comes out of it. (see manual instructions for removing the mini-playfield if you're confused). Be careful not to put too much pressure on the motor shaft at the top of the mini-playfield assembly.
The manual stresses to 'not put too much pressure on the motor shaft' for the mini-playfield. I don't really think it's that big of a deal. It's a tough motor and I'm sure it can handle a little pressure.
# Carefully slide the mini-playfield toward the front of the machine. Once it comes out of the motor shaft, pull the mini-playfield out of the machine and pull up on the wires that come through the playfield (they should all be unplugged from earlier step)
# Unscrew the three screws in the inlane-outlane divider right by the left flipper. The screws have to come up about a half inch before the entire plastic piece can be removed. Remove it.-Remove the right side metal ball rail-ramp.
# Remove the right side sling-shot cover plastic.
# Unscrew and remove right side inlane-outlane divider and 'last chance' return gate.
# Loosen two screws just to the right of the right outlane plastic, remove the plastic.
# Remove the lower pop-bumper cover (cap).
# Remove the 'Raise jackpot when flashing' plastic assembly in center of playfield. There's going to be a nut that's hiding under the green part of it.
# Remove the left ramp. Two tiny phillips screws in the front where ball enters the ramp and one screw in the rear which is obvious to see.
# Remove the plastic covering the 'start mode' saucer.
# Remove the plastic just above the 'start mode' saucer. The plastic that was underneath the mini-playfield.
# Remove the left and right pop-bumper caps.
# Unscrew and remove the plastic piece which screws into the right ramp which covers the ramp diverter piece.
# Pull up on the metal ramp diverter piece. Keep the washers with this piece, we don't want to misplace them. There should be two washers under the diverter's 'arm'.
# The part under the playfield should now fall down, be sure not to lose it when we re-assemble it. There should be a metal shaft that went into the coil. It should be attached by a spring to a piece that 'clamps' to the end of the diverter. The second part that fell is a spring that went around the metal shaft as it went into the coil.
# Remove the right ramp assembly. Three screws at the top, two mini phillips screws at the bottom and two regular screws at the bottom sides.
# Remove the V or U shaped metal piece just under the right ramp.
# Remove the two plastic pieces that were under the right ramp.
# Remove the left three INDY lane dividers. Just remove each set of dividers as a whole unit (two screws) and set them aside, it's a good idea to set them down somewhere in the right order. (ie. The one with the long post is far left). Don't put these in the cash box, just set them aside.
# Remove the metal flap that's covering the right side of INDY ball gate. (it's screwed into the back of the playfield)
# Remove the plastic just to the right of the INDY lanes.
# Remove the red 'light hood' that was under the plastic we just removed.
NOTE: There's a hole under this fourth light hood for a general illumination lamp. But it looks like they tried saving a little money and cut this light out of production. (I've seen several INDYs without this lamp installed.)
# Remove the captive ball wire railing. One screw into the back playfield panel, and two nuts down in front by where the ball 'rests'.
Note: During re-assembly I wasn't sure if the screw that went into the back of the playfield had a washer or not. You may want to make yourself a note, I'll make a reference to this note below during re-assembly.
UPDATE: Remember that I have a regular production IJ which doesn’t have the ‘Lost Plastic on the rear wood panel of the playfield. I don’t know how much stress the following step will put on the plastic, so I just want to say here be very careful. If it appears it could crack the plastic, maybe we can figure out a better way of removing the captive ball rail-tube.
# Now, removing this part takes a little bit of force. Push back on the rear playfield panel just a little and pull up on the captive ball railing. It should pop out. The ball should also try to make a run for it (after years of captivity). Remove the opto assembly (we just unscrewed it with the two nuts) Remove the ball. The target in the back of the captive ball, behind the rear panel needs to be unscrewed from this piece. Two screws at the base of the target hold it to the railing. Unscrew them and let the target dangle in the rear of the machine. These two screws seem to be unique, don't get them mixed up with the rest of the screws. Remove the railing.
# Remove the green plastic in upper right corner of playfield. One nut has to be removed, and two screws need to be loosened a little.
UPDATE: This looks like where you would want to unscrew the Lost Plastic piece from the rear wood panel of the playfield. You might want to make a note of the types of screws it had to hold it on because I don’t know. It probably uses philips head wood screws.
# Remove the four screws into the idol assembly cover plastic. Remove the plastic (it is actually two plastics which were screwed together by one of the four screws we just unscrewed. These screws are black colored on my IJ, these are unique so I'm not mixing them also so that I remember to install the same black screws when I re-assemble.
# With the playfield pullout out in the latched position, you can stick your hand in the right side and pull down on the idol exit piece. With the idol exit pulled down, look in, under the idol's head in the area where the balls sit. There is a single allen set screw that holds the idol to the motor shaft. If the set screw isn't facing out so we can unscrew it, turn on the machine and let the idol spin until you can see the allen nut, when you see it, turn the game off so we can loosen this nut. Loosen this nut and pull up and remove the idol head. Its best to hold down the idol exit piece while unscrewing the set screw.
# Remove all tools and parts off the playfield and raise it up.
# Unscrew and remove the motor bracket for the idol motor. Don't panic, it's just three screws. Two on the inner side and one on the outer side (near the edge of the playfield).
During re-assembly I wasn't positive if these screws were phillips or hex head. Please make a note to yourself here (if it's hex or phillips).
# Now you should see a triangle of three phillip head screws going into the playfield which hold the yellow idol in place from under the playfield. Unscrew these three screws and make sure the idol piece doesn't fall when you remove the last screw. Remove the yellow idol part from above the playfield.
# Lower the playfield into the pulled out and latched position again.
# Remove the orange trim piece that was under the idol part. It's a good idea to re-screw the long 1/4 piece back into the thread. Otherwise, it's a common mistake to simply re-assemble it with a regular nut, and realize that this long piece should have gone there when we go to put on the idol cover pieces.
# Remove all rubbers (rings, posts, and flipper rubbers). Keep them if you plan on cleaning them and re-installing them.
# This is the end of normal dis-assembly.
The following will be the super-intensive disassembly description. I'm going to remove the pins and metal ball guides. This will make it much easier to clean the corners and cracks that's normally hard to get at when pins and metal pieces are still on the playfield. I'm starting a pile of 'metal pieces' now, and a bucket of pins and long screws that hold the pins in place.
The playfield is pretty bare right now. It is possible modify this document so you don't have to remove any more playfield parts. You will have to figure out where to pick up during the re-assembly process.
To help me remember what pins go where and with what long nuts, I've make a photocopy of the page from the manual that lists all of the pins and posts the machine has. Then I label each pin and post with a letter or number. Then I copied a page from the manual with a diagram of the playfield. I then mark where which pin and nut cam from. For example I label the lower pin for the right side of lower sling shot at 1A. The 1 refers to the long nut with threading on the top and bottom. The A refers to the "star post #8". I have a number/letter combination for every pin I take off. There are two more screws you'll need to draw into the diagram and label. One is a long phillips threaded screw like used in the slingshot pins and INDY lane dividers. The other is a long phillips wood screw also used in the INDY dividers.
You can find these manual pages plus how I used them on my web page.
# On the controlled gates at top of playfield: remove the little control spring from the armature. Just slide the loop of the spring off the gate's arm. Unscrew the two screws holding each gate to the playfield. The screws for the right one are tricky, but possible to remove. (I used needle-nose pliers).
# Remove all posts and pins that you can on the top side of the playfield as above instructions, write down where all different types of pins and posts go. There are three adjustable posts, one by each outlane and one by the idol exit, they have an additional nut on the underside of the playfield holding them in, unscrew the nut first or hold onto it with pliers when unscrewing the post. There are three posts in the captive ball area that are screwed into the playfield, they have a hex base that you can put a wrench to and unscrew, keep the washers under them with the posts as you set them aside. Without these washers, playfield wear increases when these posts get loose during game play. There is also another post you can unscrew with the hex base just to the left of the ENT drop targets.
# There are 8 posts which are held on by a nut and washer below the playfield, I'll take them off later, I'll say it below when I do. (The posts on each side of the ramp entrances and by idol lock shot. One by the captive ball area)
# Remove all lamps and flasher lights that come through the playfield (the general illumination lights and flashers). Don't forget the lights in the pop bumpers. Set these aside in a container.
# Remove all metal ball guides. Most are screwed onto the top part of the playfield with screws and bolted through the playfield with a nut on the underside. Remove all nuts and screws and remove all metal ball guides. This includes the metal rounded 'scoops' for the start mode and idol lock shots. There are some metal ball guides which are just thin pieces of wire glued into the playfield. I'm not removing these parts because they are glued into place and not a hassle to clean around.
For the metal guides that you have to raise the playfield and unscrew a nut and washer. It's a good idea to rescrew the nut and washer to the metal piece when setting it aside. I'll list the metal parts I have to unscrew from under the playfield here:
First the small metal piece just to the left of INDY lanes. There's one nut under the playfield holding it on. Remove it and the metal piece.
Metal guide piece just to the left of "Super Jackpot" light. One nut and washer below playfield. Remove them.
Metal 'wedge' piece just under right ramp. One nut and washer below playfield.
Metal guide piece on left side of right loop shot. One nut and washer.
Metal guide just to left of left outlane. One nut under playfield, no washer. Note removing this nut will also remove what holds the LEFT support arm for holding the playfield in the 'pulled out and latched' position. After removing this part, be careful as only one nut will be holding the support arm in place.
Metal idol exit ramp. Five nuts and four washers under playfield. Note one nut holds the RIGHT playfield support arm in place. From now on, be careful when raising the playfield as only one nut is holding each support arm in place.
# The remaining metal pieces can all be moved from the top side of the playfield. Note a unique short phillips screw on right side of playfield holding the long U shaped loop metal. Two unique flathead phillips holding the ball shooter lane metal "ramp". What the heck, I even removed the metal piece on the back panel of playfield (the piece that the right ramp screws to). Note the lower end of the ball guide on the left side of the shooter lane overlaps the INSIDE of the idol exit ramp.
# Raise playfield and remove the standup targets. There are two screws per target. There are 7 targets. ADV three targets. ENT One narrow target. URE three targets. Let them dangle below the playfield.
# There are 4 sling-shot blade switches. Two screws for each switch. Remove the screws and let the switches dangle below the playfield.
# Remove the under-playfield ball path for the lock shot to the idol. There are five wood screws and one 'machine screw'. I'd put the machine screw back in the hole after removing the part. When I tried removing the part, one of my opto's was wired intertwined with the other wiring in the machine. I had to temporarily remove the opto from the part, unwind it, and screw it back in so I could remove the part from the machine.
# Now, I removed the 8 posts which are held on by a nut and washer. I'd rescrew the washer and nut onto the thread when setting these aside. Remember to write down where each type of post goes on a diagram of the playfield.
# Unscrew the metal scoop that is for where the popper pops the ball from under the playfield to the Idol. The coil doesn't 'unplug' so let this part dangle under the playfield.
You don't have to let it 'dangle', you can tuck this part under the playfield wiring bundles so it won't dangle.
I am now finished with the disassembly process. Currently the only things on top of the playfield are the: flipper bats, slingshot kickers, pop bumpers, Idol 'release' gate, wire form ball guides (glued into playfield), mini playfield motor and optos, and the ball trough and shooter lane kicker.
You may choose, having gone this far, to even remove the above parts (the pop bumpers and ball trough will be an extreme pain in the rear). If you do, be sure to write down, similar to what I've done, so you can go in reverse of what you've written down to reassemble it later.
I started soaking the 'star posts' the yellow plastic posts for the sling shots etc. I threw them into a cup with hot soapy water.
Soaking the posts didn't really help. I still had to scrub the heck out of them when I cleaned them. (I describe this cleaning later).
The above took a couple nights of work.

STAGE 2: Cleaning the playfield
Now, forget about all of the parts that we have removed from the playfield. This stage focus on the playfield only, not the parts. We'll focus on the parts during the re-assembly phase.
# Clean the top of the playfield. Clean everything you can without raising the playfield up. This includes the wood edging and wood playfield backing. Since 'playfield cleaner' is expensive, I usually spend most of my cleaning with 409, then once it is cleaned with 409, I use Novus #2 and #1 plastic polishes. (the 'blue stuff' is also a good final polish (Gemeni)). Also clean the pop bumper housings and actuator disks, the flipper bats. (I clean ALL rubber remnants from the flipper bats so they are shiny), clean the idol exit plastic part and shooter coil. It looks like there is a tight spot by the mini-playfield motor area, I used q-tips to clean the corners here. Clean the slingshot kickers also. Just clean everything!!
While cleaning the top of the playfield I decided to unscrew the ball trough. It's 5 screws from above the playfield and two on the underside. I just let it dangle while cleaning the playfield.
I used a moist q-tip and cleaned under the pop-bumper actuator ring. Wipe the insides of the machine's cabinet that you can get to while the playfield is in its current position.
Take your time and examine the playfield at all angles with the light reflecting from the playfield to be sure you didn't miss any areas.
# Clean the dangling ball trough. Wipe the optos with a q-tip. It not easy to clean but, at least clean up the area where the ball sits in. Also clean up the blue rubber part on top. If you break a wire off the coil, re-solder it back on.
# Raise the playfield
-Clean inside of the cabinet sides that can be reached with playfield in this position.
# Clean the wood under the playfield which was hidden by the 'under playfield tunnel' from lock to idol.
# Clean under the 'super jackpot' lamp, red plastic (just because it's easy to get to).
# Clean the four slingshot blade switches as they dangle under the playfield. There’s probably some white playfield cleaner on them. They may be tarnished as well, at least get the gunk off them.
# Screw these blade switches back to the playfield. Two hex wood screws per switch. Four switches. 8 screws total.
# NOTE, when screwing wood screws back into the playfield, if they just turn and strip the wood without tightening, take the screw out, shove a couple toothpicks into the hole and break the toothpicks so they are flush with the wood, re-screw the screw into the hole. The toothpicks fill the stripped hole with more wood for the screw to grab onto.
# Unscrew the three screws for the left two 'Indy's friends' lights about 1/4 inch. The litle circuit board should be able to come off without taking the screws all the way out. Clean the three lights, and clean the underside of the lights (the friends lights).
# Rescrew this circuit board back to playfield.
# Unscrew the three screws for the right two 'Indy's friends' and repeat cleaning process as above.
# Unplug the three connectors to the large center circuit board for lights. Unscrew the 7 screws holding this circuit board to the playfield. Remove the circuit board and clean the light bulbs. Clean the underside of the lamp graphics under the playfield. Re-install this circuit board, screw it in and plug in the 3 connectors back in.
# Unscrew and clean the circuit board for the INDY lane lights like above.
# I'm not specifically cleaning the remaining lamps, because, in my experience just the circuit board style lamps collect lots of dust and last longer than the other. (#555 last longer than #47 & #44), lasting longer, they collect more dust.
# Standup targets: 6 round ones and 1 narrow one. While they are dangling under the playfield, clean each one individually and install it. Clean both sides of the plastic. If the foam is crappy, or gone, clean off the remaining adhesive on the metal and cut a narrow piece of weather stripping and stick it there. (I'm replacing bad foam backing), Hardware stores carry wide weather stripping that works just right for cutting and using as standup target backing. I use Dennis brand #263. It is 1/4" thick, 3/4" wide (and 10' long) with sponge rubber (Not the 'UV' rubber stuff). Clean the contacts on each target also. The most common way is to use a slightly rough paper like that found on business cards. Put the paper between the two contacts and apply pressure to close the contacts against the paper and rub the paper back and forth. This usually does a good job of cleaning contact switches.
# Clean as much of the ball popper from under the playfield to idol as you can. Re# screw it back to the underside of the playfield. 6 hex 1/4 inch wood screws. Be sure to clean the opto switch.
# Rebuilding the 3-bank drop target assy. I always rebuild the drop target assemblies when I shop out a pinball machine. Unplug the connector to the opto circuit board. Unscrew the 6 screws holding the assembly to the playfield. Slide the assembly out from under the ENT light bulbs.
# Unscrew bracket closest to top of solenoid and remove the bracket.
# Loosen nuts on other solenoid bracket. Angle the solenoid and it should come out, make sure the drop target reset plate is all the way down so the solenoid can come out. Once the coil is out, let it dangle, take the assembly to a table for cleaning.
# Clean the solenoid bracket we removed
# Remove and Clean the reset plate/solenoid shaft part, make sure it's nut is firmly screwed in.
# Turn the assembly over, circuit board up.
# Remove the three E clips, two clips have a washer under them, the third one doesn't.
# Lift the circuit board off, clean it up. Be sure to clean the inside of the U shaped opto switches.
# Remove the drop targets for cleaning. For each target there is : A pull-down spring, an E clip on the bottom. On the top post is: E clip, washer, spring, washer, drop target, and another washer.
# Clean up the metal assembly.
# Clean the three drop target plastics.
# Set the assembly down, posts pointing up.
# Place a washer on each upper post (may want to clean washers too).
# Place the three drop targets on place.
NOTE: Lately, at work, I've been dabbing a tiny bit of lubricant grease on the part of the drop target that slides against the drop target plastic. Also a dab of grease on the front of the target that rubs against the front of the assembly. I'm not going to do it during this particular cleaning (mainly because I don't have any of the grease with me right now, it was a white, thick grease). It's your own choice here, I'd try it without grease first, if the targets seem to drop fine when we get it together, then don't worry about it.
# Put a washer on the top post again, this washer and the previous washer should sandwich the plastic drop target on the upper post.
# Place a small spring on the upper post of each drop target.
# Place the last washer on each of the three posts. This washer and the previous one will sandwich the spring on the upper post.
# Clip an E clip onto each post (all six)
# Hook up the 'pull down' spring to the side of each target to the little tooth on the metal assembly.
# Now, manual pull up each target and flick it with your finger, If they don't drop quick, then you can either shorten it's pull down spring to make it pull harder or try adding a dab of grease as mentioned above. Mine worked super without any grease or modification of the pull down spring!
I'm not sure, maybe instead of grease, if you're having slow targets, try a dry lubricant like graphite powder. Just an afterthought. I've never tried it myself.
# Put the opto circuit board back on. Make sure the optos are facing the drop targets (not facing out!), and the connector pins are facing down.
# Put two washers on the bottom two shafts.
# Put the three E clips on the shafts securing the opto board in place.
# place the reset plate/solenoid shaft in the assembly, Make sure the reset 'fingers' are under each plastic target. (pull the targets up)
# Go to the machine and cleanup the solenoid and its sleeve. The sleeve goes in so that the part of the sleeve that protrudes out of the coil, protrudes out of the side of the coil where the wire lugs are.
# Take the drop target assembly to the machine and put the coil back into the assembly, taking care that the reset plate fingers are always under the drop targets and not in the little oval part of the drop target. (pull the targets up)
# Sandwich the coil into the assembly with the coil bracket and put the nuts back on and tighten them up! Make sure the coil lugs are on the bottom side and facing out (not to the side). Test your work by simulating a coil energizing. Pull up on the reset plate and flick the targets down with your finger. Should work smoothly.
# Slide the drop target assembly back under the ENT targets and screw it back into the playfield. Plug the connector back into the opto circuit board.
# I've found it necessary for IJ to put a rubber band or loosely zipped zip-tie around the drop target adjustment screws and around the opto board connector. This places a little pressure on the optos so they are closer to the drop target plastics. I've had problems such that the optos were just not close enough to the drop targets and a little vibration in the game would trigger the switch (when the target was down, the vibration would cause the opto to trigger because it wasn't close enough to the plastic drop target).
# Clean the pop bumper contact switches. Put a rough piece of paper (like a slice of a business card) in between the contacts and squeeze the switch closed and rub the paper a few times (at least until the paper stops picking up dirt). There is one switch under each pop bumper (3 switches total).
# Remove the three screws that hold the single drop target under the playfield. There's too many wires holding this sucker in, we'll have to clean it up while it's in the pinball cabinet.
# Remove the pull-down spring.
# Remove the two E clips.
# Under the upper E clip is a washer, spring, and washer.
# Take care not to bend the microswitch actuator arm.
# Remove the drop target plastic.
# My IJ has a washer under BOTH shafts under the drop target, remove them. (where I'm used to seeing only one washer under the upper shaft of drop targets)
# Clean up the washers and springs and drop target plastic.
# Clean up the metal assembly. Take care that your towel doesn't catch on the switch armature and bend it or break it off. Clean up that armature, the metal, the moving shaft into the solenoid. Clean it up as much as you can.
# Put the a washer on each shaft.
# Place the drop target plastic back onto the assembly.
# Place a washer on the top shaft. This will sandwich the drop target plastic between two washers.
# Put the small spring on the top shaft.
# Put the last washer on the top shaft, this will sandwich the small spring between two washers.
# Put an E clip on each shaft.
# Install the pull down spring.
# Test the unit out by pulling up on the reset plate and tapping the 'drop target down' coil magnet. The magnet pulls on a little arm that taps the target down.
# Reinstall the assembly back to the playfield.
# The flippers: For Each flipper:
# I like to work on the flippers with the playfield angled with the side arm propping the playfield in a 45 degree angle.
# Remove the two allen nuts holding on the coil stop bracket. There should be a lock washer on each nut.
# Remove the coil stop bracket and clean it.
# Slide the coil off and clean it up. Put a moist towel through it and clean out the middle (I don't bother removing the sleeve, I just clean it up).
# Here you have several options. Examine the flipper shaft. The tip of it should be beveled in. Over time this bevel flattens out and the shaft starts mushrooming which cause the flipper to go weak. You may want to remove the link and regrind or file a bevel into the shaft (or replace the entire shaft and plastic piece as one part). When removing this part, note the order of nuts and bolts. There is a nut on the inside which you hold on to while unscrewing the allen bolt. The order of parts would be: Allen bolt, washer, One side of the metal bracket, the flipper plastic piece, there’s a small round bearing inside this, the other side of the metal bracket, a washer, a lock-washer, and the nut. My flipper shafts looked good so I'm just cleaning it without removing it.
# Clean up the metal plate and flipper parts.
# Slide the coil back on.
# Put the coil stop bracket back on.
# Tighten it down with the two allen nuts and lock washers.
# Tighten down the 8 hex wood screws that hold the flipper plate to the playfield.
# Manually flip the flipper up and make sure it closes the EOS switch. When doing this push on the metal shaft only, if you push on the plastic part it won't properly simulate a 'flip', this is because of any looseness in the pivot points, when the coil energizes it pulls in on the metal shaft...and well its physics, just push on the end of the metal shaft to properly simulate a 'flip'.
# Repeat above for other flipper.
This concludes the second stage

STAGE 3: Playfield Prep

Basically, this stage consists of replacing the metal parts, posts, lights and rubber rings. Be sure to take your time and don't rush things. I am going to describe putting parts back on in the exact opposite order that we removed them.
This stage is really just the start of the re-assembly process. I'm breaking the re-assembly process into two stages.
Use your 'pins and posts' diagram that you should have filled out in Stage one to locate where the pins are supposed to go where and with what type of screw down.
# Clean and install the 8 posts that are held to the playfield with a washer and nut on the underside. (two go by 'Start mode' entrance, two by idol lock entrance, two by each ramp entrance, etc). Make sure you put the post through the top of the playfield and on the underside goes a washer and a nut.
# Clean up and install the under playfield tunnel from lock shot to idol. 5 wood screws and one machine screw which I had re-screwed into the playfield. I used Q-tips to clean the optos on this part.
# Clean and install large U shaped loop metal. Remember a short phillips screw went into right side. Under that thin flap, the lower flap will curve in and a small metal post will fit into a guide hole. 7 hex wood screws and the short phillips.
# Clean and install the little metal ramp at end of shooter lane. The top end of this piece fits under the metal loop piece we just installed and the other end needs two small flat-head phillips screws.
# Install the remaining metal ball guide pieces. This part is like a puzzle. When you find one that has a nut that needs to be put on the other side of the playfield, raise the playfield and install the washer and nut. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN these nuts, just make them snug, it is very easy to over tighten them and the metal piece cuts into the playfield. The remaining metal pieces use hex wood screws (and washer and nut on underside of playfield). I'll list the order of these pieces in the order that I put them back on (clean before installing):
# Remember if a wood screw strips out, fill the hole with broken toothpick(s) and try again.
# Longer straight piece in between idol and shooter lane. 2 hex wood screws.
# Small bracket into playfield wood back panel for right ramp. 2 long hex screws.
# Curved piece for 'Lock' shot area. 2 hex wood screws.
# Short metal piece just to right of 'Super Jackpot' lamp. 1 hex wood screw.
# Angled piece that goes around 'Start Mode' saucer. 3 hex wood screws.
# Angled piece under mini-playfield. 3 hex wood screws.
# Small curved piece just behind single narrow standup target. 2 hex wood screws.
# Small angled piece under mini-playfield. 2 hex wood screws.
# Curved scoop for lock shot. 2 hex wood screws.
# Curved scoop for start mode shot. 3 hex wood screws.
# Long hex nut and washer that screws into playfield in upper left corner area.
# Idol Exit ramp. Four nuts go with a washer. Fifth nut goes uses the end of the right playfield support arm instead of a washer. Remember to screw down the right side playfield support arm here. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
# Metal guide piece to left of left outlane. 2 wood hex screws. One nut under playfield with the end of left support arm as a washer. (no washer, just the nut and the end of the support arm). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
# V-shaped piece just to left of INDY lights. 2 wood hex screws and one nut with washer under playfield. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
# Long curved piece inside right loop shot. 4 wood hex screws. 1 nut and washer under playfield. No over tighten.
# Triangle shaped piece under right ramp. 1 hex wood screw. 1 nut and washer under playfield. No over tighten.
# Short piece just above previous piece. 2 wood hex screws.
# Short piece just to left of 'super jackpot' lamp. 1 wood hex screws, One nut and washer under playfield. No over tighten.
# Turn machine on.
# Clean and install each light bulb (and flasher light bulb) back into their sockets. If a bulb is black just throw it away and install a new one, black bulbs mean they are just about to go out (if they even work at all). If a bulb doesn't work as you install it, take it out and put in a good one. (this is why I turned the machine on).
# General Illumination: Make sure all light just installed works (except flashers, for now).
# All lights in backbox should be on (except flashers)
# The pop-bumper lights should be on.
# The two coin door lights should be on.
# The two 'Hand of Fate' lights above each inlane should be on. (they are GI lights)
# Controlled lights: Put machine in 'single lamp' test mode and verify that each light works individually. (Make sure that other lamps don't blink when they are not supposed to). If a light doesn't work, replace it!
# Flasher test. Go to flasher test and make sure each playfield flasher works when it is supposed to in the test. REMEMBER: Install the yellow door switch closer part or close the coin door whenever you want to see if a particular flasher is working. Note, 'lite jackpot' and 'left ramp' flashers won't appear to work because they aren't installed yet! Also note, the 'left side' should flash two flashers on left side of playfield. The 'super ball' should flash the super ball button by the start button.
# Since I'm not sure what backbox flashers are tied to which playfield flashers, now put it in "all lamps and flashers" test and make sure ever flasher in the backbox blinks, also double check that the every playfield flasher is flashing also.
# Clean up the star posts. I spend a good long time cleaning up the grime from the little cracks and crevasses. It may take a good amount of scrubbing, but it's worth it in the long run.
# Use the 'post map' you made during disassembly and now clean and replace every post. If a wood screw type of post strips out and doesn't tighten down, shove some toothpicks into the stripped out hole and break them so that the hole is filled with broken toothpicks (round toothpicks, are fatter and better than flat ones). The post should tighten against the toothpicks in the hole. I tightened the posts pretty good. Be careful with the plastic star posts, they can break with too much tightening.
# Clean and install the controlled gates at the top of the playfield. Be sure to route the control spring through the center hole, then onto the little arm. Then screw it down, two hex wood screws each.
# Install rubbers. Either clean up the ones you've removed previously or install new ones, whatever is most convenient for you. Use page 2-52 from the manual as a guide. Note that rubber 'A' for the mini-playfield and the INDY lane dividers will be installed in a later step.
I have a copy of the manual page on my web page (with corrections).
# Note, brand new flipper rubbers are a round circle. Sometimes people are surprised how much stretching is necessary to install a new flipper rubber (and people are surprised that it is round, and not the shape of a flipper bat).
# Note I have parts 'C' and 'D' combined. I have 12 BLACK rubber sleeves instead of 10 black and 2 yellow (the two yellow are supposed to go up at the captive ball area.
# See the page that I scanned for corrections to the rubber map. There should be 17 'A's, 12 for the INDY lanes and mini-playfield, 5 for main playfield. 2 on the left and 3 on the right. I added the extra 'A's to the picture.
# The manual shows two 'I's, One is to the right of the lower pop-bumper. The other is supposed to go in the right side inlane/outlane divider above the 'last chance' gate. I've found it a much better idea to just use 1 'I', the one by the pop-bumper. By the 'last chance' gate, I've found it better to use two separate 3/16" rubber bumpers-one on each post just above the 'last chance' gate.
# Put machine in 'switch test' and check the sling shot switches. Adjust them to your favorite setting. Be sure to bend the metal blades at their base not up at the ends.
# While in switch test mode, check pop bumper switches. Touch the pop-bumper actuator disk and see if the machine recognizes the switch. I like these to be super sensitive. To adjust, bend the blade switch below the playfield for each pop bumper. I adjusted all three of mine so they 'pop' when the actuator disk is pressed down just a tiny bit. I like the sling shot's to me a 'medium' sensitivity.
You should also hit every playfield switch while in switch mode (in above step). Make sure the machine recognizes switches properly.
# This is the end of the playfield prep stage. We're now ready for re-assembly!

STAGE 4: Re-Assembly
NOTE: Check this... Look down the ball shooter lane. The metal on the left side of this lane... make sure the long metal flap goes on the INSIDE of the idol exit ramp. I had messed up and forgot to do this.
Yeah! We're here. Don't get too excited now, this will take time. Do not rush it! We're going to clean and install all of the main playfield parts in the exact opposite order we removed them. Give time and attention to each and every part. Clean all sides of everything.
I used 409 for the plastics, and 409 with a buffing of playfield cleaner on the ramps.
USE CAUTION. Do not over tighten the nuts. They have a plastic liner so they won't vibrate out. Just tighten them until they touch the plastic, that's enough they won't get loose. Plastics can get expensive to replace if you crack them.
# Clean up and install the dark orange piece to the left of the idol assembly. One nut at top, a machine screw in the middle and the long shaft piece on the bottom. Do not over tighten.
# Clean up the yellow idol 'cup' part. (the part that holds the idol head). Clean all over including around the opto. Be sure to hit the optos. I used a q-tip to clean the hole where the shaft goes through and the slot where the exit control gate goes through. I used a little Novus to help get the dirt off.
# Installing the idol 'cup'. Feed wires through hole in the playfield. Put cup in its place, feed the exit gate through the slot in the cup. Raise playfield. Get each of the 3 long threaded screws started into a hole. Take care in trying to get the threads matched up. Screw them in. The screws should turn fairly easily, if it’s tough to turn then you're starting new thread, unscrew and start the screw again. Once you're confident you're using the original threading in the plastic, tighten them down. Just before you tighten all the way, lower playfield and see how the entrance is lined up with the exit hole from the metal popper. There is a little play that allows you to line them up as you tighten the cup down. Tighten it down lined up with the metal popper. (If it won't line up, try to loosen the popper from under the playfield and see if you can move it a little and tighten it back). Be firm, but don't crank the screws, this part is probably VERY expensive; the plastic will crack if you're not careful.
# Once installed, manually pull the idol exit gate solenoid, make sure there is nothing binding and that is moves up and down without any obstructions.
# Clean up the idol motor assembly. Mainly clean: dirt around motor, optos (3 optos = 6 parts), the shaft, and the rotating disk. Check the tiny circuit boards on each opto, if any are loose, tighten them with a little phillips screwdriver. Install this part, three screws (phillips, I believe, if I discover later it's hex nuts, I'll change this line). If you just tighten down the part how it is, gravity will be pulling it down and the shaft will be pressing against the top of the yellow part a little. Try to tighten this motor down centered (as much as you can, there's not much play (if any)).
I made a 'note' during disassembly for you to make a note of the type of screw for the idol motor assembly. Use the proper screw now in above step (either hex or phillips head).
# Clean the idol head. I used Windex because 409 may be too strong and remove the gold finish. You may even want to use soapy water. I rubbed hard on the 'legs' and it removed some of the gold down there. Actually some of the dirt adds to the idol's appearance. So clean this part at your own discretion.
I recommend using soapy water. I don't want to get in trouble for even suggesting using Windex which may cause the gold to come off.
# Check the three hex nuts under the idol head part, I had to tighten them a little because they were a little loose and the metal part was a tad loose.
# Install this part against the shaft. The shaft should still be facing with flat part to front of machine. The allen set screw screws into the flat part of the shaft. Pull the idol exit plastic down and tighten with an allen wrench. As the allen screw tightens it will go flush against the flat part of the shaft and the idol should line up as it tightens. The allen set screw only turns a tiny bit to 'tighten'.
# Clean up the two idol cover pieces. Check the flasher lamp (I used an ohm meter) and replace if it’s bad. Place the two pieces over the idol where they belong, run the wire though the hole just above the metal idol popper part. Install the screws, I had four black screws (one of which served to screw the two pieces together). The three black machine screws had little washers under them also. Just barely tighten these screws down! The plastic is just dying to crack! Just barely tighten it or the plastic will crack, it's very thin by the edges!
UPDATE: It appears here is where you would want to clean and install the ‘Lost Plastic’ piece on the rear wood panel of the playfield. Remember, I don’t actually have this plastic, I’m just going by observation that this is when is a good time to put it on.
# Clean and install the green plastic in upper right corner of playfield. Two hex wood screws in playfield edge and one nut. Just snug, this plastic isn't going anywhere.
# Clean the single target for the captive ball, it's dangling in the back of the playfield. It shouldn't be that dirty.
# Clean the captive ball railing tube.
# Clean the captive ball opto and bracket. If the opto circuit boards are loose, tighten them with little phillips screwdriver.
# Insert captive ball rail tube into back of playfield.
Don't 'Install' this part yet, just loosely put it where it should go.
# Insert opto wires through hole under captive ball area. Put the opto assembly around the railing so that the white opto part is on the left side and the black part with the protective flap is on the right of the rail tube. The optos and wires surround the tube.
# Clean and install the captive ball into the rail tube.
# Here's the tricky part. While holding the ball in the tube and keeping the opto assembly surrounding the tube, we need to place the tube in place. The little round part at the top needs to be on the front side of the back playfield panel and the lower round parts need to go around the long threaded shafts. I've found that it's best to have the top round wire part in front of the back panel while forcing the bottom part onto the threaded parts. The bottom 'fingers' of the tube squeezed between the two rubber sleeves. Also, the back panel can angle back a tiny bit giving more room.
# Screw the back standup target to the tube from behind the back panel. The targets metal flap goes below the tube's flap. The screw base touches the target and the threads grab onto the tube's flap. These two screws are unique on my machine, they are short hex machine screws with a phillips slot on top.
# Put the opto assembly over the two threaded parts where it's supposed to go.
# Tighten it down with two nuts. Put a long hex machine screw into the back panel of the playfield holding the rail tube in.
I had made an note during disassembly that I wasn't sure if I originally had a washer under this screw or not. Be sure to include one if you had removed one, don't if you didn't have one originally. I'm leaning more towards 'no washer'.
# At this time, take the four red light hoods and 8 star posts aside and clean them up. I spent a good amount of time cleaning up those star posts, it's worth it in the long run (getting all of that gunk out of their cracks and crevasses) .
# Install the 8 rubbers onto each star post. Rubber type A in the list. I put the rubber around the tip of needle-nose pliers and then force the pliers open then put the post around the stretched rubber. However you find is good, as long as you get the rubber around the post.
# Install the far right light hood/2 posts assembly. Top is a wood screw post with threading on the top. Bottom is a phillips machine screw. Be firm, but be aware that to much tightening will cause the red plastic to crack.
# (Installing the remaining three dividers will be out of order from how we disassembled it, but it's okay).
# Install the middle two dividers/posts. They have phillips wood screws on top and phillips machine screws on bottom. Take caution with tightening these as the red plastics will easily crack, however if they are too loose you'll notice them move around when the ball hits them. Use good judgement.
# Install the far left divider/posts. On top is the wood screw piece with threads and a very long hex post screwed into it. On bottom is a phillips machine screw. Remember, not too tight.
# Clean and install the plastic just to right of INDY lanes. It's a two layered plastic. One nut and one hex machine screw.
# Clean and install the little metal 'flap' just above the plastic previously installed. It uses two long hex machine screws through the back panel.
# Clean and install the two plastics that go under right ramp, don't screw or bolt them in yet. The one on bottom is single layered and the one on top has three layers.
# Clean and install the metal U or V shaped piece just over the previously installed two plastics.
# Now screw down the previously three installed parts (two plastics and one metal). Three hex machine screws and two nuts. Again...don't tighten them too much.
# Cleanup the right ramp assembly. Clean it all up including both sides, the green flasher plastic and the plane. Test the flasher light to make sure it works (I used an ohm meter). I used a q-tip to clean up the switch arm. Also, use a q-tip to clean around the opto areas. I also went crazy and removed both metal guards and cleaned up under them and re-installed them. I used a little Novus #1 on it too.
# Installing right ramp: Feed wires through the hole where the ramp goes and place ramp in place. Install three machine screws at top into the bracket, two tiny flat-head phillips screws at bottom and two hex machine screws at the bottom sides. Remember snug, too tight will break plastics.
# Clean and install the right ramp diverter. Remember to leave the washers on the shaft as you install it. Poke it through the hole in the ramp, and playfield. You may find it necessary to reach your hand around the back of the playfield and touch the plastic washer on the bracket under the playfield to get an idea of where it's hitting it. Move it around until it pokes through the washer under the playfield and is in it's 'normal' position.
# Clean and re-screw the plastic that goes on the right ramp, the plastic that covers the diverter. Be careful not to strip the plastic holes.
# Clean and install the left and right pop bumper caps (not the center lower one though). Clean both sides of the pop bumper cap. The screws are tiny phillips with rounded (not flat) heads.
# NOTE: If you're having trouble with the ball not staying in the saucer on a direct shot to it, now is the time to repair it. Clean and install the left and right inlane/outlane dividers (process described in a later step below) and roll the ball down the inlane and take practice shots to the start mode saucer. If it doesn't 'stick' in the saucer then unscrew the saucer metal backing and bend it around and re-install. Try again. Keep bending the back plate until it keeps the ball in the saucer and can kick it out too. Mine is in a sort of 'S' shape to deflect the ball downwards when it the ball hits it.
# Clean and install the plastic that goes above the 'start mode' saucer. Not too tight, this plastic is just dying to crack. Two hex machine screws.
# Clean and install the plastic that goes above the previously installed plastic (under where mini-playfield goes). This is a two layered plastic. Three nuts (they are lined with plastic, so why tighten? They won't unscrew...). Screw until flush with the plastic.
I see now that the above sentence is misleading. ALL nuts installed thus far have been lined with a nylon plastic. It was late and I typed that as just another reason why not to over-tighten any of the nuts.
# Cleanup the left ramp assembly. While cleaning you should remove the plastic on it (two hex machine screws) and clean it up and re-install it. Clean it all up and be sure to get the green flasher plastic. I used a moist q-tip to clean the entire switch actuator arm. Test the flashers in it, I used an ohm meter to make sure the bulbs are good. Clean the opto parts with a q-tip. If the little opto circuit boards are loose, tighten them with tiny phillips screwdriver.
# Installing the left ramp: route wires through hole just to right of the left ramp entrance. Screw in the two tiny flat-head phillips screws at the ramp entrance and a hex machine screw at the top. In my bucket of screws and nuts I have a couple hex machine screws that are half as short as the rest, this is where I think this screw goes... At the top of the left ramp into the long hex shaft coming out of the left INDY divider.
I had made a note during disassembly about these two shorter hex machine screws, you may want to check your notes to see if you wrote down exactly where these two screws are 'supposed' to go.
# Clean and install the plastic in the center of the playfield. The 'Raise jackpot when flashing' plastic. This is a two layer plastic. ONLY screw in the nut that hides under the second layer of plastic for now. The rest of the screws will be put in later to hold down the ramps and airplane. ...Okay, I see the hex machine screw just to the right of the left ramp entrance can go in too, but mine was broken off so I didn't notice it. I just put a hex machine screw into the post there. ...this is where I put the second hex machine screw that's half as long as the rest.
# Clean and install the lower pop-bumper cap now. Two tiny phillips screws.
# Clean and install the little plastic just to the right of the right outlane. (Do I really need to say 'Not too tight' anymore? I'm sure you get the point). Two hex wood screws in the wood edging.
# Cleanup the right side inlane/outlane divider (separate the 'last chance' gate from the main three level plastic part). You don't really have to separate the three layers of plastics, just be sure to do a thorough cleaning of the part all over. Screw the three long screws into the playfield. First get each screw's thread started, then finish tightening them down. It is easy to cross thread these screws, so care it needed to make sure you use the original threads in the playfield.
It's really not that hard to separate the three level plastics, I'd just do it. You'll get a better cleaning of these parts. These plastics are the most commonly 'looked at' by people, so get them all clean. Separate them, clean them, then re-attach them.
# just before tightening these three screws all the way down, you may want to put the playfield in the cabinet in 'play' position and practice rolling a ball down the inlane divider. Make sure the ball doesn't 'bounce' as it rolls from this part and onto the flipper bat. The transition should be as smooth as possible. So just before tightening this part to the playfield, there is a tiny big of movement that you can do the part to get it adjusted just right, then tighten it down...in a place that ball rolls down it and onto the flipper smoothly.
# Clean the post that goes above the 'last chance' gate. Install the second 3/16" rubber onto this post.
# Clean the 'last chance' gate. Clean it all over including the wire-form and the corners where dirt builds up.
# Install the 'last chance' gate and post into the playfield. Phillips wood screw on top (with the post with rubber) and phililps machine screw on bottom that goes through the bottom of the 3-level plastic part.
# Right side sling shot cover plastic: Clean it up, both sides. Now, I put fender washers under the corners of the sling shot plastics to protect them from getting broken off by the ball. Williams is doing this now with all new pins. A fender washer is a washer with a small hole in the center, but is very large in diameter (imagine a silver dollar with a small hole in center). I went to a hardware store with the actual plastic and found some fender washers that were just right, just a tiny bit larger than the diameter of the plastic's corners (I don't know or remember the actual size, sorry). This way the washer won't stand out too much, yet it will protect the plastic. Even if your plastics are already broken on a corner or two, I'd still install these washers because they 'complete' the look of the sling shot, the washer, being almost the same size of the plastic, give a continuous look to the plastic and give it a well rounded appearance even when it's actually broken and jagged.
# Put a fender washer on both corners of the right side slingshot (2 washers total, here). Install the right side slingshot plastic over them. Install just the lower nut for now. As you tighten the nut, you can adjust the fender washer as there is some play in it. Don't tighten too much.
# Clean the right side metal ball 'rail ramp' or 'habitrail' ramp. Yes the rails get dirty. You'll notice a difference if you clean up a dirty rail ramp.
# Install the right 'habitrail' ramp. Insert the top part into the right ramp and put into place with the bottom loop part over the right slingshot post. I used a hex machine nut with small washer on the middle part (the washer keeps the force of the screw from trying to separate the railing). I used a washer and a nut on the bottom part. (the nut is a larger one, and a washer helps disperse the downward force of the nut over the railing).
# Clean the three level, left side inlane/outlane divider. (just like before with the right side).
# Install this left side inlane/outlane divider piece. Remember to get all three threads started before completely tightening down any one screw. Then tighten all three down.

=== THE MINI PLAYFIELD: ===

# At first I was going to remove the red sidings and everything like I did the main playfield, but I don't see that necessary here. There's no gunk in the edges by the red plastic and it's not worth risking stripping out any of the screw holes in the red plastic, I'm sure it's expensive.
# Examine the underside, make sure all screws are there. I was missing a screw on one of the brackets. Tighten down the bracket screws (the four phillips screws...one near each corner).
# Clean each opto part with a moist q-tip. 2 opto switches=4 opto parts.
# You know that the lower right switch gets bent and causes a 'row short' of switches, it is a good idea to insulate the posts so they won't conduct if they are touching. Cut some small pieces of electrical tape and wrap around the diode and switch lugs for the bottom right switch. (Please CUT the electrical tape, if you stretch and tear it, over time, it will try to shrink back to it's original size and unwrap). I ended up only taping the lowest switch lug, as it appears to be the only one that gets bent on my machine.
# Remove the two sets of red 'light hood' and two star posts on the top side of the mini playfield. Two hoods and four posts. I find it easiest to sit in a chair and work with the playfield in between my legs.
# Clean up the posts and install new/cleaned rubbers on them.
# Clean up the red light hoods.
# Clean the mini playfield. It's best not to spray cleaners directly on its surface, rather spray a cloth or paper towel, and rub the towel on the playfield. This is because fluids may get trapped under the red plastic sides or go down the light holes.
I used 409 first, then finished with Novus #1.
# Clean the red edging.
# Clean (or just 'wipe') the underside silver brackets and silver sides by the optos.
# Replace any of the 12 light bulbs that show any 'blackening' signs. A blackened light bulb is about to die if it isn't already dead.
# Raise the main playfield.
# Temporarily plug the mini-playfield into it's proper connectors. You'll have to hold the playfield in your hand while accessing the test menus in the next step. There are three connectors, make sure the colors match up as two connectors have same pin configuration, just different colored wires. Verify that all 12 lamps work (in attract mode is good enough).
# -Put machine in 'switch test' Manually activate every switch and make sure all 10 switches register properly especially the two opto switches.
# Unplug the mini-playfield.
# Re-install the two light hood and star posts parts. There are two long phillips wood screws per light hood.
# Lower the main playfield (and leave in 'pulled out and latched' position).
INSTALLING THE MINI-PLAYFIELD:
# Feed three wire connectors through the hole under where the mini-playfield is going to go.
# Carefully slide the top of the mini-playfield onto the moto shaft in the rear of the playfield. You can see the marks on the shaft where the set screw is supposed to be tightened down at, push the playfield up to the same spot. Sometimes it is necessary to push on the rear playfield panel a little to make the shaft point up higher so the mini-playfield slides on easier.
# Put in the two screws for the front bracket to the playfields. It should be two hex machine screws with the little star washer around it's neck. Not the super long ones (the longest ones will be for going through the back playfield panel)
I'm not totally sure if the above are supposed to be hex or phillips head, depends on what type of screw you used for the idol motor bracket. I made a note to make sure you get the idol motor bracket screws 'right', so you should have remaining, the 'right' screws for this job. I'm leaning toward 'hex' being the 'right' ones.
# Tighten down the set screw (tiny allen screw). It should tighten against the flat part of the shaft which will line up the mini-playfield how it's supposed to go.
# Clean up the metal mini-playfield exit guide piece. It goes just to the left of the ADV targets.
# Install this part. It's the same screw used for the lower mini-playfield bracket. Two of them. After tightening it down, visually inspect to make sure the is a small gap between the bottom edge of the mini-playfield and this part. We don't want the mini-playfield to hit this piece when it tilts left. If there is no gap, the mini-playfield needs to go onto the motor shaft some more, or this part can be bent downwards just a tad. (bending it to the front of the playfield to get a gap between it and the mini-playfield, although I think it's best to avoid bending it. Try moving the mini-playfield onto the motor shaft first).
# Clean and install the green, two level plastic that goes over the left of ADV targets. Two nuts and two hex wood screws in the edge of the playfield. Don't over-tighten! (My plastic is cracked at the top part from somebody over-tightening it or a ball hitting it).
# Clean and install the metal 'gutter' to the left of the mini-playfield. My machines uses two machine screws (one fat, one thin) I've seen a machine that used one machine screw at top and a wood or sheet metal screw on the bottom. I thought it was two hex machine screws, but unfortunately I don't have any left in my bucket of screws, so I'm using a phillips with washer on the top, and a hex machine screw on bottom.
Note: I should have enough 'updates' that you should have the proper screws for this by now. I had ended up going to a hardware store and getting some more hex head machine screws.
# Clean up the metal 'bridge' piece. It's a good idea to remove the two plastics from this piece during cleaning. Clean them and re-install when the part is clean.
# Feed the cable of the bridge part through the little hole in the back panel of the playfield. Set the bridge in place. Make sure the 'release post' comes through the hole in the bridge and that the bridge entrance is below the right ramp lip. Tighten this part to the backbox with the three long hex machine screws with star washers on their necks. NOTE: My IJ only has the top two machine screws installed, somebody decided that the bottom, 3rd screw is too much of a pain and left it out. Just before getting the bridge tightened down, manually reach behind and under he playfield and pull the 'release post' down. Make sure it pops up freely. You can shift the bridge left and right until you feel it is centered about the post. If, in the future during game play the post 'sticks' down, the loosen and shift this bridge over some.
# Clean and install the think green plastic. Do not put nuts on yet.
# Clean curved metal guard piece and place over green plastic just installed. NOW install the nuts. The top one needs to be fairly tight, otherwise the ball will stick on it (the ball will be rolling right over the top of it).
# Install two fender washers on left sling shot posts. One for each corner. See previous discussion above about fender washers for the right slingshot.
# Clean and install left slingshot cover. Only put on the bottom nut for now.
# Clean and install the short gold colored ramp piece for the mini# playfield exit. To keep the ball from hitting the top nut that it rolls over while going down the habitrail, I put two washers on the slingshot plastic post, then the ramp. This elevates the ramp a tiny bit higher. I then put a washer on top and a nut. This allowed the ball to clear the nut.
# Clean and install the left ramp habitrail. Feed the top part into the left ramp first. Then set it in place. I used a hex machine screw with a washer in the middle and a washer and a nut on the lower end (on the left slingshot). The washers help disperse the force and keep the nut or screw from expanding the metal loop.
# NOTE: I seem to only have phillips machine screws left, no more hex style. I'm not sure where the small phillips are 'supposed' to go, but I'm going to use it for the plane...
# Clean and install the while airplane. It's a pain to clean, but possible. Don't forget to clean it's propeller and metal support bracket. Don't accidentally install it with the rear wire support going 'through' the habitrail ramp, it should be along it's side. We don't want the ball hanging on it.
# Clean and install the three parts that make up the front of the playfield that the apron screws down onto. All hex wood screws.
# Clean and install the two metal pieces to the left and right of the shooter coil. Hex wood screws.
# Remove the two instruction cards and their plastic coverings from the apron. Clean the apron. I urge you to use only warm water. I've seen many times where cleaners (409 specifically) caused the artwork on the apron to smear or fade (while cleaning other pins). Don't forget to shine up the metal railing screwed to it also. Clean the instruction card plastic covers (I just wipe them a little). Install the instruction and score cards with their plastic covers. I have just make it a rule not to touch the instruction card front. Not even to wipe off dust. It's too easy to get a dirty fingerprint on it which will be visible forever.
# Place the apron on the game and screw it down. Four phillips machine screws with star washers.
# Raise the playfield.
# Install the right ramp diverter shaft and spring. There's a large spring that goes around the shaft (which enters the coil), and a small spring that holds the two parts together as a unit. First insert the shaft into the coil (remember to have the spring around the shaft). Now turn it and slide it onto the bottom of the ramp diverter. Put the big part closest to the playfield, the metal 'flap' on it is facing out. Put it onto the shaft with a little of the shaft sticking through. The allen set screw should be facing to the left of the machine. Tighten the allen set screw against the flat side of the diverter shaft. As it tightens it will go flush against the flat part and should be automatically adjusted.
# Make sure game is off.
# Plug the wires from the idol motor into the little circuit board under the right inlane. It's a two wire connector. Wrap the wires through the plastic clips so it's neat and out of the way.
# Now, plug in all 21 connectors that we originally unplugged. By now, we should be more familiar with what these plugs are. Be sure the wire colors match, sometimes two identical connectors are next together, just the wire colors are different. Wrap these around nearby clips so they are neat and out of the way. Sometimes the colors are the same, but the configuration of them is different. (especially on the 3 pin connectors).
# Lower the playfield. Turn on game.
# Put machine in switch test mode. Verify the 10 switches on the mini playfield work.
# Verify the ramp entry and 'ramp made' switches work.
# Verify the switch by the mini-playfield entrance works. (switch on the 'bridge')
# Verify the opto switch at the idol entrance works.
# Verify the idol exit ramp switch works.
# Put machine in flasher test and verify the ramp flashers and idol area flasher works. Remember the high-voltage enable switch behind the coin door. Be sure to check each flasher individually, even I accidentally plugged two flashers in backwards (actually I reversed the airplane flashers LEDs and the right idol area flasher).
# Put machine in 'mini playfield test' and verify it moves left and right properly and reports no errors.
# Put machine in idol test and verify it reports no errors.
# At this point I did a quick spray of Novus #1 and wiped the main playfield area, just a quick final shining. Don't do this with Wildcat or Novus #2, we don't want any white stuff getting in the nice clean star posts now!
This is the end of Stage 4, re-assembly

=== STAGE 5: CLEANING THE CABINET ===
# Raise the playfield. Clean up the inside of the cabinet. Wipe the speaker and big transformer. Clean up to your pleasing. I even got out the vacuum and sucked up the dust.
# Try to clean up the metal part in front, the piece with 'Inspected by' and 'Install 6 balls' stickers on it.
# Put the playfield back into the cabinet.
# Clean and install the 6 balls.
# Clean both sides of the glass and install it. (I just put the glass on, clean one side, then take glass out and turn it around and reinstall it, then clean again (the other side)).
# Install backglass and clean entire front of backbox. The backglass, speaker panel and wood edging (be careful of splinters).
# Clean up all sides of the game. Including the top of the backbox and the front. Around the gun, the coin door, the back of the game. Clean the legs. Check for gum stuck to the bottom and remove it.
That's it! Have a beer or your favourite non-alcoholic beverage and enjoy your Indiana Jones!

By: Garrett Lee, mrglee@yahoo.com
Date: March 31, 1999 (Updated September 1, 1999)

Williams System 9 - 11

2012-05-01T00:23:38Z

Loupz: /* System 11b */

{{WIP}}

Click to go back to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_Repair_Guides Williams solid state repair guides index].

==Introduction==

[[File:Wms sys9 boardset.jpg‎|220px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 Board Set]]
[[File:System 11 Backbox Boards.JPG|160px|thumb|right|System 11b Board Set in an Earthshaker. The CPU board pictured is upside-down]] 
The Williams system 7 boardset was replaced in 1984 with the system 9 boardset, and then again in 1985 with the system 11 boardset. Combining the driver board, sound board, and cpu directly onto one board eliminated several design deficiencies of the earlier 3-7 boardsets; mainly the 40 pin interconnector, and extra wiring harness interboard connectors. Larger roms could be fitted directly onto the boards allowing for more complex rulesets and sounds.
 

==Games==
===System 9===

{| class="wikitable"
!Title
!Date of Release
!Model #
!Sound
!Other Boards
!Notes
|-
|Space Shuttle|| 12-1984 || 653 || C-10716 (Speech only) || ||
|-
|Sorcerer|| 03-1985 || 532 || C-10716 (Speech only) || ||
|-
|Comet|| 06-1985 || 540 || C-10716 (Speech only) || ||
|}

===System 11===

{| class="wikitable"
!Title
!Date of Release
!Model #
!Sound
!Other Boards
!Notes
|-
|High Speed|| 01-1986 || 541 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || ||
|-
|Grand Lizard|| 04-1986 || 523 || C-11030 (Background sound only) || ||
|-
|Road Kings|| 07-1986 || 542 || D-11197-542 (Background music only) || ||
|}

===System 11a===

{| class="wikitable"
!Title
!Date of Release
!Model #
!Sound
!Other Boards
!Notes
|-
|Pinbot|| 10-1986 || 549 || D-11297-549 (Background Speech & Sound) || ||
|-
|Millionaire|| 01-1987 || 555 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11298-555.JPG | D-11298-555]] (Background Speech & Sound) || ||
|-
|F-14 Tomcat|| 03-1987 || 554 || D-11298-554 (Used on 1st 5,000 games - Background Speech & Sound) / D-11581-554 || ||
|-
|Fire!|| 08-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 || ||
|-
|Fire! Champagne Edition|| 09-1987 || 556 || D-11581-556 || ||
|}

===System 11b===

{| class="wikitable"
!Title
!Date of Release
!Model #
!Sound
!Power Supply
!Aux Power Driver
!Master Interconnect
!Notes
|-
|Big Guns|| 10-1987 || 557 || D-11581-557 || D-8345-557 || N/A || N/A ||
|-
|Space Station|| 12-1987 || 552 || D-11298-552 || D-8345-557 || D-11813-557 || N/A||
|-
|Cyclone|| 02-1988 || 564 ||[[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG | D-11581-564]] || D-8345-557 || D-11813-574 ||N/A ||
|-
|Banzai Run|| 05-1988 || 566 || D-11581-566 || D-8345-566 ||D-12247-566 || D-12112 ||
|-
|Swords of Fury|| 06-1988 || 559 || D-11581-559 || D-8345-557 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-559 ||
|-
|Taxi|| 08-1988 || 553 || D-11581-553 || D-12246-553 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-553 ||
|-
|Jokerz!|| 12-1988 || 567 || D-12338-567 || D-12246 || D-12247-559|| D-12313-567||
|-
|[[Earthshaker]]|| 02-1989 || 568 || [[Media:System 11 Sound Board.JPG | D-11581-568]] || D-12246-568 || D-12247-559 || D-12313-568||
|-
|Black Knight 2000|| 04-1989 || 563 || [[Media:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-585.JPG | D-11581-585]] || D-12246 || D-12247-563 || D-12313-563||
|-
|Transporter the Rescue|| 04-1989 || 2008 || D-11581-2008 || D-12246 || D-12247-2008|| D-12313-2008 ||
|-
|Police Force|| 08-1989 || 573 || D-11581-573 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-573||
|-
|Elvira and the Party Monsters|| 10-1989 || 2011 || D-11581-2011 || D-12246 || D-12247-2011|| D-12313-2011 ||
|-
|Bad Cats|| 11-1989 || 575 || D-11581-575 || D-12246 || D-12247-566 || D-12313-575||
|-
|Mousin' Around!|| 12-1989 || 2009 || D-11581-2009 || D-12246 ||D-12247-2009 || D-12313-2209 ||
|-
|Whirlwind|| 01-1990 || 574 || D-11581-574 || D-12246 || D-12247-574 ||D-12313-574 || Uses a C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board to control 5 extra devices
|}

===System 11c===

{| class="wikitable"
!Title
!Date of Release
!Model #
!Sound
!Other Boards
!Notes
|-
|The Bally Game Show|| 04-1990 || 2003 || D-11581-2003 || || Uses a C-13286 Sound Overlay Lamp Board
|-
|Pool Sharks|| 06-1990 || 2014 || D-11581-2014 || ||
|-
|Rollergames|| 06-1990 || 576 || D-11581-576 || ||
|-
|Diner|| 09-1990 || 571 || D-11581-571 || ||
|-
|Radical!|| 09-1990 || 2015 || D-11581-2015 || ||
|-
|Dr. Dude|| 11-1990 || 2016 || D-11581-2016 || ||
|-
|Riverboat Gambler|| 11-1990 || 50007 || D-11581-50007 || ||
|-
|Bugs Bunny's Birthday Ball|| 01-1991 || 20009 || D-11581-20009 || ||
|}

Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org

==Technical Info==
System 9 eliminated a huge issue with the earlier system 3 through 7 boardsets - the 40 pin interconnector used between the MPU and Driver boards. Now, all the circuitry of the mpu, driver, and sound boards was contained on one board. Helper boards were still used for displays, speech, special purposes, and solenoid expansion. Starting with Banzai Run, Williams re-introduced a weak link into their system: the interconnect board, itself designed to eliminate many under playfield flasher driver boards, which had proven themselves problematic. 

One of the largest advantages of the system 11 board set is its ability to switch one set of coil driver transistors between 2 sets of coils/flashers. It does this via a relay on a separate board called the A/C relay. The theory is that coils that are seldom fired will be on the A side of the relay, and that flashers will be on the C side of the relay. Most of the time during gameplay, the C side is active, letting the flashers be driven. If the driver transistor for the A/C relay itself is bad, the relay defaults to the coil side, allowing the game continue to operate in a semi-normal fashion (usually the A side coils are the ball shooter lane, drop target resets, VUK - basically coils that don't need to be able to operate 100% of the time like a sling coil or pop bumper coil. (Data East's boardset was essentially a copy of the system 11 boardset - but they programmed it the opposite way, so that the flasher side of the A/C relay is active by default. So on a Data East game when the A/C relay doesn't operate, the game just sits there and flashes lamps instead of playing.) 

System 9 and early system 11 games do share a disadvantage with the earlier 3-7 boardsets - they still utilize special solenoid circuitry. The pops and slings on system 9/11 games do not activate a switch which is seen by the mpu's program which fires the coil - instead, the switches directly fire their associated coils via some logic gates on the main board. The main disadvantage with this system is that the solenoids fire continuously as long as their activation switch is closed; a locked on sling or pop will burn out components quickly. It is recommended to add a 1, 1.5, or 2 amp inline fuse to each coil on a directly fired system 11 game. (Usually just the pops and slings are direct fired coils). 

===CPU Driver Boards===
[[File:WMS_Sys9_CPU.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 9 CPU]] 
[[Image:WilliamsSystem11CPU.jpg|200px|thumb|left|System 11 CPU]] 
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Placeholder for System 11A CPU]] 
[[Image:System 11 CPU Driver Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|System 11B CPU]] 
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Placeholder for System 11C CPU]] 

===Sound Boards===
[[File:WMS_Sys9_Speech_2532.JPG|140px|thumb|left|System 9 Speech Board (from Space Shuttle)]]
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board.JPG|200px|thumb|right|System 9 Speech Board (from Comet)]] 
The speech board used in the first two System 9 games, Space Shuttle and Sorcerer is essentially the same as the speech board used in System 6/7 games. However, the speech board used in Comet has one slight difference. Four jumpers were added to the Comet speech board so either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs could be used. Both Space Shuttle and Sorcerer use 2532 EPROMs from the factory, while Comet uses 2732 EPROMs. The Comet speech board is backward compatible. If using a Comet speech board, either 2532s or 2732s can be used for the first two System 9 games (or System 6/7 games), provided that the jumpers as set for the appropriate EPROM. 

In addition to the speech board generating speech sounds, it mixes the sound and speech signals via the potentiometer on the speech board.
 

[[Image:WilliamsSystem11BackgroundSoundBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Background Sound board as found in High Speed]] 
[[Image:WilliamsD-11297BackGroundSoundBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Background Sound board as found in Pinbot]] 
[[Image:System_11_Sound_Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, not Completely Populated]] 
[[Image:WilliamsD-11581SoundBoardNotCompletelyPopulated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, not Completely Populated]] 
[[Image:WMS Sys11 Sound D-11581-564.JPG|200px|thumb|left|D-11581 Sound Board, Completely Populated]] 

===Power Supply===
[[Image:WMSSystem11PSPreBigGuns.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Pre-Big Guns Power/Regulator Board. This power supply has had the header pins replaced and the 5V filter cap at C10 replaced.]] 
<Note, the description of this PS is not quite correct and needs more research ... Chris>

This power supply uses obsolete parts at Q1 (SDS-201) and Q3 (SDS-202). The PCB print was used through Swords of Fury, with slight modifications. Up until and including Fire! Champagne Edition, Q1 and Q3 were the obsolete SDS-201 and SDS-202. Big Guns was the next game after Fire! Champagne Edition. Big guns and beyond used an MJE15030 at Q1 and an MJE15031 at Q3.

The schematics for this power supply also list part numbers MPSD52 and MPSD02. The equivalent part number for an MPSD52 is a 2N5401. The equivalent part number for an MPSD02 is a 2N5551.

Part numbers printed on an SDS-201 at Q1 may be "6557" or "9057S".
Part numbers printed on an SDS-202 at Q3 may be "MDS60" or "9058S"
 

[[Image:System 11 Regulator Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Big Guns and After Power/Regulator Board]] 
This power supply was used from Taxi thru the remainder of the System 11 board set.
 

===Auxiliary Power Driver Board===
[[Image:System 11 Power.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Auxiliary Power Board]] 

===Interconnect Boards===
[[Image:System 11 Lamp Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Backbox Interconnect Board]]
Although the first four System 11B games, which include Big Guns, Space Station, Cyclone, and Banzai Run, use some form of an interconnect board, it wasn't until Swords of Fury when this interconnect board was used as a standard for the remaining System 11 games. The interconnect board used in Swords of Fury does use a different part number, D-12185-559, compared to later System 11 games, D-12313-x (x denotes the game's model number), but it is nearly the same in design. 

The interconnect board is located in the backbox, just below the CPU board. The board has the following circuits passing through the board:
*the lamp general illumination circuits
*flipper power and ground
*lamp columns and rows
*switch columns and rows
*flash lamp power
What differentiates the board from game to game are the resistor and fuse values used for the flash lamp power circuits.
 

===Other Boards===
====Sound Overlay Board (C-13287)====
[[File:WhirlWindSoundOverlayBoard.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Williams "C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board" as found in WhirlWind.]] 
This relatively simple board was used on Whirlwind only to accommodate 5 additional solenoids (flashers or motors). The board logically sits between the System 11 MPU and the sound board, intercepting data normally sent directly to the sound board, and acting on that data only when specific codes are commanded. The board also relays data not specifically intended for it, on to the sound board.
 

====High Current Driver Boards====
[[File:WMS C-12493 High Current Driver Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Williams C-12493 High Current Driver Board from Earthshaker]] 
The high current driver board was used on Earthshaker to drive the shaker motor. It was used on several other Williams / Bally WPC under multiple part numbers.
 

====A/C Relay====
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Placeholder for A/C relay board (early design ie. F-14, Pinbot)]]
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Placeholder for A/C relay board (later design)]] 
Starting with Road Kings, System 11 games make use of what is referred to as an A/C relay. The purpose of the A/C relay was to drive twice the amount of coils and flashers by using half the amount of drive transistors. This process is commonly referred to as "multiplexing". Typically, if the A/C relay was at rest, the "A side" flashers would engage. When the A/C relay was powered, the "C side" solenoids would engage. 

For example, High Speed, which does not use an A/C relay, uses 8 discrete drive transistors to drive solenoids / flashers 1-8. Pinbot, which does use an A/C relay, uses the same 8 discrete transistors to drive solenoids / flashers. However, a total of 16 solenoids and flashers (A side and C side) are driven. By employing the use of an A/C relay, the System 11 MPU / driver board could be used for many more years without a "drastic" redesign. 

Initially, the A/C relay was located on a small circuit board under the playfield for System 11/11A games. Likewise, this A/C relay board did not have Molex header connections. Wires were directly soldered to the circuit board. Once the Auxiliary Power Driver Board was introduced with the System 11B platform (starting with Big Guns), the A/C relay was moved to this board for all subsequent System 11B/11C games.
 

===Flipper Coils===
System 11 games (starting with F-14 Tomcat) use different flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application. Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |System 11 Flipper Coils
|-
!Part #
!Color
!Strength
!Notes
|-
|FL-11753 || Yellow || Weakest ||
|-
|FL-11722 || Green || Weaker ||
|-
|FL-11630 || Red || Standard ||
|-
|FL-11629 || Blue || Strongest ||
|}
 

===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Placeholder for Sys 9/11 coin door buttons]]
 

==Problems and Solutions==
===Power Problems===
'''Replacement power supply'''
If using the Rottendog WDP011A power supply for Williams Cyclone or Big Guns, you may have to move the +12v jumper from the bottom jump to the top. If your machine has GI but doesn't boot (only the 5v light on the CPU is lit) and is one of these two games, that is the most likely reason.

'''Bridge Rectifier Fuses'''
A design flaw carried over from the earlier systems was the lack of fuses on the two bridge rectifiers used for the solenoid and lamp power. In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game will blow, but that's not always the case. On games before Fire, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp fuse installed. Games made after Fire already have a factory installed fuse holder and fuse on these bridges.

===MPU boot issues===
====Normal Game Boot Behavior====
[[File:Diagnostic7Segment.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The 7-Segment diagnostic display on a System 11(nothing) MPU.]]
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with a 7-segment display on the MPU is to show a "0" in the display. The "0" does not go away. The "0" will continue to be displayed under normal boot conditions. 

[[File:DiagnosticLEDs.jpg|200px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs as found on a System 11A, 11B, and 11C MPUs.]]
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with 3 LEDs instead of the 7-segment display on the MPU is for the "+5 VDC" LED to light first and stay on, then a split second later, the blanking LED will light and stay on. At the same time that the blanking LED lights, the diagnostic LED will begin to blink at a fairly rapid pace with a 50% duty cycle (equal durations of the LED being on then off). 

[[File:LEDDiagnosticsIn7SegmentGame.jpg|200px|thumb|left|+5 VDC, Diagnostics, and Blanking LEDs driven by game software expecting a 7-segment display as in High Speed.]] 
If a System 11 MPU with 3 LEDs is installed in a game whose original board contained the 7-segment LED diagnostic display first introduced with the System 7 board set, the status of the 3 LEDs won't help much. The game software is attempting to display a "0" (assuming your game boots correctly) on a 7-segment display. Since the board contains just the three LEDs, the MPU circuitry merely lights all three LEDs as shown in the picture at left.
 

====MPU Boot Error Codes====
MPUs used in System 11(nothing) games display a code on a 7-segment display if an error is detected during boot. MPUs used in System 11A, 11B, and 11C games use the Diagnostic LED to blink a "codes". 
=====System 11(nothing) games=====
The following table lists the error codes displayed on the System 11(nothing) MPU 7-segment display. 

{| class="wikitable"
!Code
!Description
|-
|<center>0</center> ||  Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.
|-
|<center>1</center> ||  CPU board locked up. Possible cause is memory protect circuit and U25 CMOS RAM "stuck bits".  That is, an actual failure of the CMOS RAM chip or the 6802 processors ability to communicate error free with the RAM.
|-
|<center>2</center> ||  U27 Game ROM checksum failure
|-
|<center>3</center> ||  U26 Game ROM checksum failure
|-
|<center>4</center> ||  not used
|-
|<center>5</center> ||  Blanking signal "stuck", or the coin door is closed, or the memory protect circuit is faulty, or the CMOS RAM at U25 has failed.
|-
|<center>Other or no indication</center> ||  General system failure. Check the 5VDC power supply as well as the integrity of game ROM 2 at U26.
|}

A zero displayed during Memory Chip Test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is NOT functioning properly. 

An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly. 

=====System 11A, 11B, 11C games=====
The following table lists the number of blinks, the error message that might be displayed, and the explanation (Source: Williams System 11A game manual. with embellishment). 

{| class="wikitable"
!Code
!Description
!Notes
|-
|<center>0</center> ||  no message ||  Normal game boot with no problems detected. The game should be in attract mode.
|-
|<center>1</center> ||  U25 RAM FAILURE  ||  The RAM at U25 could not be used properly. This means that the RAM failed a read/write test at power up.  The game will remain in the current state and no other tests are performed until the game is turned off, then back on.
|-
|<center>2</center> ||  MEM. PROT. FAILURE  ||  This message means that either:    a) the Coin Door may be shot,    b) the Memory Protect Switch may be stuck in the ON position,    c) the memory protect logic is protecting the memory, or    d) a U25 RAM failure is occurring.
|-
|<center>3</center> ||  U51 PIA FAILURE ||  The PIA at U51 has failed.
|-
|<center>4</center> ||  U38 PIA FAILURE ||  The PIA at U38 has failed.
|-
|<center>5</center> ||  U41 PIA FAILURE ||  The PIA at U41 has failed.
|-
|<center>6</center> ||  U42 PIA FAILURE ||  The PIA at U42 has failed.
|-
|<center>7</center> ||  U54 PIA FAILURE ||  The PIA at U54 has failed.
|-
|<center>8</center> ||  U10 PIA FAILURE ||  The PIA at U10 has failed.
|-
|<center>9</center> ||  IRQ FAILURE ||  The interrupt request line is not working normally. It may be missing, stuck, too fast, or too slow.
|-
|<center>10</center> ||  U27 ROM FAILURE ||  U27 failed checksum (test 11 is skipped).
|-
|<center>11</center> ||  U26 ROM FAILURE ||  U26 failed checksum.
|}

All of the above failures (except #9) may mean that the device has failed but it may also mean that the 6802 microprocessor is unable to communicate adequately or properly with the device. For example, if the CPU is attempting to checksum the game ROM at U27, but one of the 8 data lines leading to U27 has been severed, the wrong data will be received by the microprocessor and the checksum test will fail even though the ROM is perfectly fine.

=====Five "Knocks"=====
Sometimes when turning a system 11 game on, the knocker will fire 5 times, causing most folks to wonder, "what the hey"?. All that knocking is designed to call the operators attention to a potential switch issue. Like the "credit dot" in WPC games, these 5 knocks mean that the game hasn't detected the closure of a particular switch (or switches) in a certain number of games. A message will be displayed indicating which switch or switches to examine.

Usually, this is an indication of a failed switch. Most switches get closed during the normal course of game play, long before the game's software counts up to the limit of "games played without closing each switch" and issues this indication.

To address this issue, use the coin door diagnostic panel buttons to enter switch edge test. Manually close the switch. If a switch closure is indicated, either normal game play failed to close the switch (you're not a very good player), or the switch is dirty. Closing a switch with your finger is different than closing a switch with a ball. Your finger generally pushes more firmly on the switch contacts. Clean the switch by dragging an old business card or piece of paper between the switch contacts while pinching the switch blades together with your fingers.

Caution: do not attempt to adjust switches with anything metal while the game is turned on. You will eventually short coil or lamp power to the switch matrix, damaging the MPUs switch matrix circuitry.

If closing the switch manually doesn't register in switch edge test, see the "switch problems" section of this Wiki.

=====System 11 "Adjust Failure" and "Factory Setting"=====
[[File:AdjustFailureMessage.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The typical "Adjust Failure" message on a System 11 game, coin door closed.]] 
The "Adjust Failure" message seen in the picture at left occurs when the game software can't make sense of the information contained in the battery backed RAM at U25. This could be because the RAM has failed, but this is unlikely. The vastly more common reason is that battery backup power has been interrupted to the games battery backed RAM because either the batteries are not installed, dead, or dieing. Hopefully, they haven't made a mess of the board by leaking alkaline. See below. "Adjust Failure" is displayed under these conditions when the coin door is closed. 
[[File:FactorySettingMessage.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The typical "Factory Setting" message on a System 11 game, coin door open.]] 
If the coin door is open under these conditions, the message "Factory Setting" is displayed.
 

==== Relocating the battery from the System 9 MPU board ====
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|120px|thumb|left|Leaking Battery]]
Relocating the 3xAA batteries off the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don't look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing. 

If "04 00" in the credit/match display is seen when the game is turned on, the game is in audit mode versus attract mode. Below are several reasons why the game has defaulted to audit mode.
* The batteries have failed and need replacing.
* The battery voltage is not reaching the U18 (5517-2) RAM. Check pin 24 of U18 for approximately 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v with the power off. Lack of battery backup power could also be due to an open D3 (1N4148) blocking diode. This diode is used to keep the CPU's logic power from charging the batteries.
* Blocking diode D2 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off.
* There are other problems, such as a faulty 5517-2 RAM.

Simply removing the batteries will not allow a game to boot directly into "attract mode" when switched on. It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores. However, a System 9 game will boot, and is still playable with the lack of batteries. To complete the boot sequence into attract mode, open the coin door, switch the game off, and then quickly back on. The game should leave audit mode, and go into attract mode. Credits would need to be added from the coin door, and if necessary, settings would need to be changed before starting a game.
 

The best option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won't leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually. 

Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea. You can easily remove the battery pack from the board. Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement. If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position. Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead. This will prevent the batteries from being charged and 'cooked' by the game if blocking diode D3 on the MPU board fails. Keep in mind that adding a secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory by .5 to .7 volts (the typical voltage drop across a diode) if D3 is still good. Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack. 

[[File:WMS Sys9 remote bat.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Williams System 9 MPU Board]] 
On the System 9 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right. 

After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack's voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board. All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures "out of the box" are somewhat common. Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save you some headaches.
 

[[File:WMS Sys9 D2 D3.JPG|200px|thumb|left|D2 and D3 Diodes Highlighted on a Williams System 9 MPU Board]] 
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D3 blocking diode. An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective. Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board's +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack. This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on. Alkaline batteries do not like being charged. They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly). In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged. Testing the D3 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out. When in doubt, replace the D3 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack. Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5517-2 RAM memory, if D3 is still good. 

==== Relocating the battery from the System 11 MPU board ====
[[File:RemoteBatteryHolderSystem11.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A remote battery holder installed on a System 11 MPU. The purple wire is positive.]]
 

==== Installing NVRAM instead of batteries ====
Like most other pinball mpu boards, you can replace the battery-backed ram with a non-volatile memory ram. Unlike most other systems, you have to jumper around a diode so the game will boot. D1, a 1n5817 diode, has a very low forward voltage drop (about 0.2 volts) vs. the normal 0.4-0.6 volts most other diodes have. If you replace U25 with the memory ram, most memory ram will not unlock and allow writes until the voltage is 4.8 volts or so. The 1n5817 D1 diode is just enough to prevent most memory rams from allowing writes. To solve this, solder a jumper wire around the D1 terminals, or remove D1 entirely and replace with a jumper. Make sure you do not have batteries installed if you do this as they will simply short to ground, get hot, and leak. It's recommended to remove D2 and the battery holder entirely if you do this so this will never be a possibility, and write with a sharpie where the battery holder was "upgraded to NVRAM".

You need a replacement ram that can replace a 6116 or a 6264. These are becoming scarce, but there are other solutions available that use surface mount equivalents on a small circuit board that plugs into the RAM's socket. Unfortunately, U25 is soldered in on most system 11 boards and would need to be removed to replace with an NVRAM.

==== Installing a memory capacitor instead of batteries ====
A 5.5 volt 1.5 farad capacitor can be installed in place of batteries. To do so, remove the battery holder and install the + lead of the memory capacitor bent into a dogleg shape in the + hole that feeds diode D2. (The memory cap should be mounted slightly off the board. This is the purpose of the dogleg bend, but if you have a mica insulator that will work also.) Fold the - lead on the capacitor flat and solder a small jumper wire to it that goes to the main negative terminal where the battery holder was; this is diagonally opposite the + lead in most cases, but double check with a meter. Make sure you heat shrink this connection so it doesn't short out against any traces or pads in the area.

To allow the capacitor to charge, you need to jumper around diode D2, or remove it entirely and replace with a jumper wire. A full charge may take 8-12 hours, but once the memory capacitor is charged, turning the machine on for about 30 minutes a month is enough to keep the capacitor charged up.

==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====
Remove the battery holder entirely from the MPU board and wash the board's affected areas with a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water. Scrub the corrosion with a soft toothbrush, rinse with water, then rinse with 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol to displace the water. Unfortunately on system 11 boards often the corrosion will eat into traces that are beneath PIA chips (U41/U42) requiring desoldering of those chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces.

==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ====
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing ====
[[File:WMS Sys9 comp PSU.JPG|200px|left|thumb|System 9 CPU connected to a PC power supply]] 

===Game resets===
System 9/11 games are far more tolerant of low line conditions vs. the newer WPC games. Some things to check if the game is resetting are the usual culprits for this type of thing: connectors, filter capacitors, slam switches, bad chip sockets, etc. It is good preventative maintenance to replace the +5 volt filter capacitor on the power supply with a new one; most of these are between 20-26 years old and might be getting to the point of wearing out. Certainly replace them if you are getting resetting on your system 11 game. 

Most system 11 games give an indication that they've been slam tilted; if you're getting a "game reset" but you get a noise and/or a message on the displays beforehand, it is probably a slam switch issue vs. a true reset issue. Check all the slam switches in the game (usually the coin door is the main one, and also the ball roll tilt if present). 

===Solenoid problems===
this is a stub
====A/C solenoid/flasher problems====
There are a couple ways for the A/C circuit to fail. If the driving transistor (Q8) for the relay shorts, for the most part flashers will fire instead of coils. If the driving transistor never fires, coils will dominate instead of flashers. Testing this behavior is easy. Use the diagnostic buttons to select solenoid test mode, and watch carefully to see what fires. The display will show the coil/flasher under test. If the A/C select circuit is not working, any A/C selected transistor will fire the same item twice in a row.

The A/C relay is solenoid 12 in the tests - during this test selecting 'repeat' for the solenoid test should result in hearing the A/C relay click on and off repeatedly.

If all of 'one side' of the A/C is not working, suspect either the fuse supplying the voltage to that side of being blown or the relay terminals needing resoldering. The relay is relatively heavy and its weight puts stress on its soldered connection to the auxiliary power board.

It is rare to have the A/C relay itself go bad. Possible failure points on the relay itself are the miniature contacts on the relay wipers; these are high power, high current contacts that can be cleaned (filed) with a small points file to restore proper current carrying capacity. Under no circumstances use contact cleaner on these contacts, as they are high voltage and could cause a spark/fire to occur. Do not mangle the contact wipers in an attempt to adjust them; use great care if you decide to adjust these. It is not needed in 99% of the time to adjust them.

Another failure point are the connectors and headers connecting the aux driver board to the main cpu/driver board. Any cracked header can affect the proper operation of the relay. It is good practice to replace or at minimum resolder header pins, and to replace connector pins in their housings with new pins. System 11 machines use 0.156 sized connectors in most locations.

====Special solenoid problems====
Special solenoids on system 11 games are similar to the earlier variants used on all previous Williams' baordsets. During gameplay/test modes the primary switches on the special solenoids (usually the pops and slings) are active, allowing actuation of those switches to fire the solenoids. This is done by grounding an input to a 7402 logic chip which in turn pre-drives a 2n4401 pre-driver transistor which drives a TIP122 darlington transistor to fire the solenoid.

During solenoid test mode only, the secondary path to the 7402 is utilized instead to fire the solenoids. Since there are 2 paths to fire the solenoids, it is possible for a special solenoid to work in game/test mode, but fail the solenoid test due to a failed PIA or 7402 chip, and vice-versa.

If a special solenoid actuation switch locks on, the solenoid itself will lock on as well, (hopefully) blowing the associated fuse before blowing the Tip122/2n4401/7402 grounding chain. An inline fuse holder can be added to all special solenoids with a 1 amp fuse installed to help prevent this situation.

There is a 22uF non-polarized capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches. The use of the capacitor and resistor creates what is called an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit RC circuit]. The RC circuit is used to filter noise from the switch signal. Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor. 

Later system 11 games do not use the special solenoids in the same way. They were changed to a cpu polled switch instead, keeping all the solenoid pulses under cpu control. You can easily tell if your game has the cpu controlled type by inspecting the activation switches on the pops and slings; if there are a primary and secondary switch installed, it is a direct-fire special solenoid setup. (Note that a secondary switch in the case of slingshots does not mean the normal 2nd switch all slings shots employ; rather, it refers to a switch that only activates when the sling activates. It is installed near the pivot point of the sling arm underneath the playfield.)

===Lamp problems===

====Lamp Matrix Row and Column Testing====

The CPU logic for the lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using a jumper wire. The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.
 

'''Testing the lamp matrix columns:'''

[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_columns.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix columns.]]
 

Use the following procedure to test the TIP42 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns. Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it's function is to prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix. In this test we are only connecting a single lamp at a time.

#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)
#Turn the game on and go to the "All Lamps" test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu. This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working.
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J7. There is no pin 5 as it is the key.

If a column doesn't light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.

The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.
{| class="wikitable"
!Pin
!Wire Colors
!Lamp number
!Transistor number
|-
|1J7-1 || Yel-Brn || 1 || Q66
|-
|1J7-2 || Yel-Red || 9 || Q64
|-
|1J7-3 || Yel-Orn || 17 || Q62
|-
|1J7-4 || Yel-Blk || 25 || Q60
|-
|1J7-6 || Yel-Brn || 33 || Q58
|-
|1J7-7 || Yel-Blu || 41 || Q56
|-
|1J7-8 || Yel-Vio || 49 || Q54
|-
|1J7-9 || Yel-Gry || 57 || Q52
|}

'''Testing the lamp matrix rows:'''
[[Image:lamp_matrix_test_sys11a_rows.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing lamp matrix rows.]]
 

Use the following procedure to test the TIP102/122 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.

#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).
#Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)
#Turn the game on and go to the "All Lamps" test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu. This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
#The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working.
#Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J6. There is no pin 4 as it is the key.

If a row doesn't light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.�
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.

{| class="wikitable"
!Pin
!Wire Colors
!Lamp number
!Transistor number
|-
|1J6-1 || Red-Brn || 1 || Q80
|-
|1J6-2 || Red-Blk || 2 || Q81
|-
|1J6-3 || Red-Orn || 3 || Q82
|-
|1J6-5 || Red-Yel || 4 || Q83
|-
|1J6-6 || Red-Grn || 5 || Q84
|-
|1J6-7 || Red-Blu || 6 || Q85
|-
|1J6-8 || Red-Vio || 7 || Q86
|-
|1J6-9 || Red-Gry || 8 || Q87
|}

===Switch problems===

=====Switch Matrix Row and Column Testing=====

The CPU logic for the switch matrix can be tested by simulating switch closures using
a jumper wire. The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.
 

'''Testing the switch matrix columns:'''

[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_col.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix columns. This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]]
 

#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).
#Turn the game on and go to the "Switch Edges" test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu. This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J10 pin 9, the leftmost pin on the connector
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated. The test may report the switch name, refer to the switch matrix table in the manual to correlate the name to the switch number.
#Move the jumper to 1J8 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to row 1 in the switch matrix table
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J8. There is no pin 6 as it is the key.

The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the column pins.
{| class="wikitable"
!Pin
!Wire Colors
!Switch number
|-
|1J8-1 || Grn-Brn || 1
|-
|1J8-2 || Grn-Red || 9
|-
|1J8-3 || Grn-Orn || 17
|-
|1J8-4 || Grn-Yel || 25
|-
|1J8-5 || Grn-Blk || 33
|-
|1J8-7 || Grn-Blu || 41
|-
|1J8-8 || Grn-Vio || 49
|-
|1J8-9 || Grn-Gry || 57
|}

'''Testing the switch matrix rows:'''
[[Image:Sys11_switch_matrix_test_row.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Jumper connection for testing switch matrix rows. This picture shows a diode which is not necessary for this test.]]
 

#Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).
#Turn the game on and go to the "Switch Edges" test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu. This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6
#Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10
#Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
#Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J10 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
#The display should report that switch 1 was actuated
#Move the jumper to 1J10 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to column 1 in the switch matrix table
#Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J10. There is no pin 4 as it is the key.

The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the row pins.

{| class="wikitable"
!Pin
!Wire Colors
!Switch number
|-
|1J10-9 || Wht-Brn || 1
|-
|1J10-8 || Wht-Red || 2
|-
|1J10-7 || Wht-Orn || 3
|-
|1J10-6 || Wht-Yel || 4
|-
|1J10-5 || Wht-Blk || 5
|-
|1J10-3 || Wht-Blu || 6
|-
|1J10-2 || Wht-Vio || 7
|-
|1J10-1 || Wht-Gry || 8
|}

===Display problems===
System 9/11 High Voltage Section Repair 
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don't continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.
 Check Voltages 
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working.
On the Power Supply Board, use a DMM set to DC volts with the - lead grounded, probe the following connector
pins to determine if the HV section needs repair. If the display fuse, F1 is blowing,
you should remove the applicable display connector (with power off) before testing the voltages.
 
If you have Power Supply D-11883 or D-12246: 
3J2 pin 1 = -100 volts DC 
3J2 pin 3 = +100 volts DC 
If you have Power Supply D-8345-xxx: 
3J5 pin 3 = -100 volts DC 
3J5 pin 4 = +100 volts DC 
If the test points are more than about 5 volts out of spec, then your HV section may
be malfunctioning (if you or a previous owner replaced Z2/Z4 with 1N4763A diodes to purposely reduce the display voltage, test readings in the 90's range would be normal). 

Check the table below for a solution. Troubleshooting table
{| border=1
| Symptom
| Possible Cause
| Replacement
|-
| 0V ON BOTH +100/-100 lines
| Check F1
| 1/4 Amp SB
|-
| rowspan=5 | 0V on +100V line
| Open Diode D3
| 1N4004
|-
| Open Q2
| 2N5401
|-
| Shorted Zeners ZR1, ZR2
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A
|-
| Open Q1
| MJE340
|-
| Open R1
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt
|-
| rowspan=5 | 0V on -100V line
| Open Diode D4
| 1N4004
|-
| Open Q4
| 2N5551
|-
| Shorted Zeners ZR3, ZR4
| 1N4730A and 1N4763A
|-
| Open Q3
| MJE350
|-
| Open R4
| 39k ohm, at least 1 watt
|-
| rowspan=4 | F1 1/4 Amp Fuse Blows
| Bad Capacitor at C1 and C3
| 100uF,150V
|-
| Shorted Display
| Display Glass*
|-
| Shorted UDN7180
| UDN7180*
|-
| Shorted UDN6118
| UDN6118*
|-
| +118V on +100V line
| Shorted Q1
| MJE340
|-
| -118V on -100V line
| Shorted Q2
| MJE350
|-
| colspan=3 | * located on display board
|} Display Fuse F1 Blows Testing the UDN Chips 
If the display fuse is blowing, you should check the display board for shorts before connecting
a new or rebuilt power supply to the display board, as a shorted display or chip can damage a good power
supply. Remove the display board from the system. The display characters are driven by the two types
of UDN chips, the UDN7180 & UDN6118 (or UDN6184). Locate these chips (there are several)
on the board and test them with your DMM set to diode check. Clip your + (RED)
lead to the ground trace of the board. Probe the UDN chips as shown in the diagram.
If any shorts are read in the tested pins, the display should not be connected to the power
supply until the shorts are corrected.
[[Image:UDNReading.png]]
 Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test 
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don't test the pins labeled 'dont care'), the UDN
chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board. Take care to preserve this chip,
as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace. Now install an IC socket in its place.
Repeat the test with no chip installed. If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced.
If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced.
 Displays Test With no Shorts Once the displays are tested and shorts are eliminated, we can proceed with the HV section repair.
 Replacing the components in the HV Section Since there are not that many components, if you are having problems isolating the
fault, a quick solution is to replace all the components in
the HV section. If only one side (+ or -) is failing, it is possible to rebuild only the failing side.
Check the parts section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the replacement parts for one or both failing sides:
 
{| border=1
| align='center' | Part
| align='center' | +Side Part
| align='center' | -Side Part
| align='center' | +,-Location
|-
| Transistor
| MJE340 (or MJE15030)
| MJE350 (or MJE15031)
| Q1,Q3
|-
| Transistor
| 2N5401
| 2N5551
| Q2,Q4
|-
| Zener diode
| 1N4730A
| 1N4730A
| Z1,Z3
|-
| Zener diode
| 1N4763A**
| 1N4763A**
| Z2,Z4
|-
| Resistor
| 39k Ohm,1W
| 39k Ohm,1W
| R1,R4
|-
| Resistor
| 680 Ohm,1/4W
| 680 Ohm,1/4W
| R2,R5
|-
| Resistor
| 330k Ohm,1/2W
| 330k Ohm,1/2W
| R3,R6
|-
| Capacitor
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester
| 0.1uF,250V metal polyester
| C2,C4
|-
| Capacitor
| 100uF,150V
| 100uF,150V
| C1,C3
|-
| colspan=4 | **This is a 91V Zener to reduce the voltage to prolong display life
|} Remove and replace HV components<ul><li>Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).
<li>Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.
<li>Stuff board with new components.
<li>Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.
<li>Leave a little space under components for air flow.
<li>Bend leads on components so they won't fall out when board is inverted for soldering.
<li>Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.
<li>Solder the parts to the board
<li>Clip excess off leads
</ul> NOTE ON INSTALLATION OF THE MJE340/MJE350 TRANSISTOR The MJE340/MJE350 is the heat-sinked transistor. On most Williams boards, this transistor pin configuration is not the same as the original part. It will need to be installed vertically with heat sink attached to the transistor only. The transistor will sit at about a 45 degree angle so the legs can be lined up to fit in the correct holes.

Check your board and insure correct orientation before soldering in place. Late versions of the System 11 series boards were designed to use the pin configuration of the MJE340/MJE350 transistors.

Do not mount vertically if the power supply is designed to use the pin configurations of the newer transistors!

[[Image:MJEInstall.png]]
 
NOTE: The MJE15030/MJE15031 are rated for higher power and can be used instead of the MJE340/MJE350, but the MJE340/MJE350 are well within design specifications and are suitable replacements at 1/3 the cost of the MJE15030/MJE15031.


 

Ready to test 
To test the rebuilt power supply, return to the "Check Voltages" section of this guide. 
 
'''Other Resources''' 
The System 9-11 HV section of the PSU is very similar in design to the earlier System 3-7. So it will be worth reading through the [[Williams_System_3_-_7#Power_Supply_Issues|Sys 3-7 PSU Problems]] section entitled '''+/-100v Display HV Section of PSU''', for some more detail. It also provides links to source complete HV rebuild kits which will normally cost under $10 shipped.

====Replacing Display Glass====
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change1.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Replacement glass installed with glass nipple in proper location]]
[[File:WMS 7Digit glass change2.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Replacement glass installed after circuit board was drilled to allow for glass nipple in different location]]
All plasma displays have a finite life expectancy. Display glass replacements were and are offered in several configurations. The differences in these configurations are mainly the placement or lack of a display "nipple" on the back of the glass. The glass nipple is what can pose as somewhat of a problem, when replacing a display glass. Williams did place a rather large hole in the display circuit board. However, the placement of the glass nipple has changed. To overcome this issue, a hole can carefully be drilled through the circuit board to allow for the glass nipple. When drilling, drill successive holes, starting with a small drill bit first, rather than drilling one large hole. This will reduce the chances of the circuit board "splintering".
 

===Sound problems===
====System 9====

=====Jumper Settings for a Comet System 9 Speech Board=====
[[File:WMS Sys9 Speech Board jumpers.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Jumpers Circled on a Comet System 9 Speech Board]] 
As mentioned above, the System 9 speech board is essentially the same as the System 6/7 speech board. However, the Comet speech board has jumpers added to increase the flexibility of PROMs used. Either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs can be used. If using 2532 PROMs, install jumpers W2 and W4, and remove jumpers W1 and W3. If using 2732 EPROMs, install jumpers W1 and W3, and remove jumpers W2 and W4.
 

=====Missing Sound or Speech Calls=====
To start a sound test, simply press the SW2 momentary switch at the bottom of the CPU board located between connections 1J16 and 1J17. Once SW2 is pressed, the CPU will cycle through all of the sound / speech calls continuously. Each System 9 game has a chart located in the manual, which lists the speech and sound calls made during test. The benefit of the chart in the manual is that it lists the ROM where a particular call originates. If a particular sound / speech call is not heard, the associated ROM listed for that call may be bad.
 

=====Isolating the CPU Sound from the Speech Board=====
Some of the sound / speech calls originate from the CPU board, while the remaining calls originate from the speech board. If after running a game through sound test by pressing SW2, and some sounds are missing or very low in volume, a good idea is to isolate the CPU board from the speech board. All of the sounds originated on the CPU board, leave the board via the 40 pin ribbon cable, and go to the speech board for mixing. Once mixed, all of the sounds and speech are then returned to the CPU board, amplified, and sent out to the speakers. 

Much like the System 6/7 sound and speech boards, the sound can be isolated from the speech board for testing purposes. The System 6/7 Type 2 sound board uses a jumper at position W1. When jumper W1 is installed, the sound board can be diagnosed without the speech board installed. The equivalent with the System 9 CPU board is jumper W10. This jumper is typically not connected. However, when it is connected, the sounds originating from the CPU board can be heard. 

Locate jumper W10 on the CPU board. W10 is located to the right of SW2 on the board. There should be two very small wires clipped on either side of W10, as if W10 was installed and removed. With a alligator test lead, connect each alligator clip to the short leads of W10. If the short leads are not present, a short light gauge wire or wire wrap can be tack soldered to the solder pads of W10. With a jumper installed at W10, some sounds should be heard when SW2 is pressed. If no sounds are heard, further troubleshooting must be performed. 

<center>
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=2 caption="Jumpering W10 on a System 9 CPU Board">
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumper.JPG|<center>Locating jumper W10</center>
File:WMS Sys9 W10 Jumped.JPG|<center>Temporarily jumpering W10</center>
</gallery>
</center>
 

====System 11====
System 11 games are known to have some amount of hum present in the sound. To minimize this interference, make sure all boards are secured tightly with all screws installed. This will insure the boards have a proper ground. 

Another cause of hum could be an inconsistent +5 volts from the power driver board. An indicator of this being the cause of your hum would be the game occasionally resetting as well. Replacing caps C8 and C10 on the power board may fix this issue. 

A special case of interference is present on the Jokerz game, which uses a unique stereo sound board. A deficiency in its design prevents all of the noise from being eliminated from the board. Details are available on the original service bulletin here: [http://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf Jokerz service bulletin at IPDB.org] 

===Flipper problems===
===Pop bumper problems===

==Repair Logs and Game Specific Problems and Fixes==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

===System 9===
[http://www.coinopspace.com/profiles/blogs/comet-pinball-repair-log Comet Pinball Repair Log]
*Battery corrosion -- but no leaks.
*Display Power Supply voltage problem.
*All displays are dead.
*All ramps are damaged to some degree. The middle ramp is warped.

===System 11===
[http://www.coinopspace.com/profiles/blogs/space-station-pinball-repair Space Station Pinball Repair Log]
*Display Power Supply voltage problem (+/- 100v = 120v/-130v).
*Player 3 Display is out.
*Left Dock Kicker (does not kick).
*Shooter Lane: 2 balls at same time.
*Top Pop Bumper (does not bump).
*Flipper Rebuild:
**Right Flipper is sloppy.
*Right Dock: ball cannot escape.
*Stuck switches (x 5).
*Rubbers need replacing.
*Shooter power barely/not always enough to get ball to top of playfield.
*General Illumination (G.I.): Left side is completely out.

===Using a System 6/7 Speech Board in a Comet===
[[File:WMS Sys9 CPU with 2732 Speech.JPG|200px|left|thumb|A Modified System 6/7 Speech Board Functioning with a System 9 CPU]] 
Should the need arise, a System 6/7 speech board can be [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Modifying_the_System_6.2F7_Speech_Board_to_Use_2732_EPROMs modified to use 2732 EPROMs] for a Comet.

Creature from the Black Lagoon Shop Guide

2011-05-08T19:27:40Z

Loupz:

==Creature From The Black Lagoon ( CFTBL ) Shop Out Guide==

There are pictures online at [http://www.theteardown.com www.theteardown.com

===Parts to have on hand===
* Bulbs - twenty or so #44 or #47 - a box of #86 for the ramp lights.
* If you want to put lights in your jet bumpers, get 3 light sockets. There are lots of ways to do this. You can tie them to the GI circuit so they are on all the time, you can tie them to the lightning bolts so they work just like the test menu - seperate lights for left, right and center, or you can make them flash when the jet is activated. Google rec.games.pinball for information.
* Rubber ring kit - see chart at end
* Replacements for anything that is obviously broken and probably a protector for the snack bar hole.

=== Start ===
# Remove 3 balls.
# Raise playfield and disconnect wires to ramps (basically any wire running though a hole to the top of the playfield). Make sure all wires can come up through the holes without any encumbrances. Label connectors so they will be easier to reconnect. I use a sharpie permanent ink pen and use the letters of the alphabet - a,b,c...
#Remove wireform from bowl to circular ramp. - 5/8 phillips screw with star washer with washers on top and bottom and star nut on bottom.
# Remove snack bar sign - nylock nut
# Remove Ramp with flim strip credit signs on it - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with washers top and bottom on hex post by snack bar hole - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with washers on top on hex post of left side of wireform - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with washers top and bottom on hext post at rear
# Remove "Big Millions" sign - nylock nut
# Remove right ramp - two 1/4 inch screws shoulder washer on entrace - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with thick washer on top on slingshot hex post
# Remove wireform at "Start Movie" - 3/8 hex head machine screw with washer at rear - 1-1/2 inch wood screw with washer at bottom in rail
# Remove bowl - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with thick washer on top and two smaller 3/8 inch washers under plastic tab on hex post by right flipper - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with smaller washer on top and thick washer under plastic tab on hex post on shooter rail - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with thick washer on top of bracket
# Remove apron to remove wires - 1-1/4 inch white posts with 1-3/4 wood screws holding wire holders on shooter frame
# Remove xxx-13 plastic on left side of shooter lane
# Remove wireform above right slingshot - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with washer on top and under hex post on slingshot - 5/8 phillips screw with star washer with washer on playfield
# Remove xxx-20 plastic to right of left ramp entrance -remove wire for big millions sign
# Remove xxx-3 snack bar plastic - 1/2 inch machine screw with washer on post with rubber sleeve and clear plastic protector under plastic at post
# Remove xxx-7 plastic to left of "move your car" lane -remove wire for ramp lights (mark wire as it is unique)
# Remove unlimited millions sign in left corner
# Remove xxx-10 plstic under unlimited millions sign
# Remove right side of steel ramp in left corner - 2 hex head screws
# Remove 5-5/8 inch overall hex post with washer on playfield next to left ramp arm.
# Remove rod that raises ramp flap - use plyers to hold the screw
# Raise playfield and remove the left ramp assembly in the left bottom corner
# Remove Left Ramp - 3/8 inch screw with shoulder washer with washers on top and bottom of ramp on next post on shooter rail - 2 wood screws in ramp flap - phillips screw with star washer with washer on top and bottom on post to left of left jet bumper Raise the ramp flap and slide the plastic ramp to the right and remove
# Loosen plastic xxx-1 in left corner -self taping phillips head screw with washer into metal playfield rail '''NOTE''', you may not be able to completely remove it because of the steel ramp, but you need to get under it to remove the steel ramp.
# Remove left side of steel ramp with ramp flap - 3 hex head wood screws
# Remove xxx-1 plastic in corner that you just loosened. - remove unlimited millions sign wire
# Remove xxx-18 plastic on right side of move your car lane - remove super jackpot sign wire
# Remove xxx-15 plastic in upper right corner
# Remove xxx-4 plastic above left outlane
# Remove xxx-5 plastic above right out lane
# Remove left sling shot plastic - 1-1/2 inch FF hex post with washer on top of plastic on top of slingshot # Remove right sling shot plastic - 1-1/2 inch FF hex post with washer on top of plastic on top of slingshot
# Remove bottom lane guides
# Remove jet lids
# remove under playfield troughs -left metal trough has wood screws underneath holding ball guide and shorter hex head screws
# Remove orange star posts - all 6 slings posts are singles - 4 singles above right and left outlanes, note 2 interior posts are 6-32 with 1/4" tops rather than 3/16" - 2 double posts behind and to right of snack bar hole with 2 rings - 2 single posts to right of extra ball insert, bottom has phillips screw - 2 double posts to left of jets with phillips screws - 2 double posts to left of start movie hole - bottom has hex head wood screw - 3 double posts to right of jets have phillips head screws - 3 single posts on left of top lane guides with phillips head screws on bottom 2 - 4 single posts on right side of top lane guides, bottom 2 phillips screws
# Remove 3 top lane guides with organge tubes - all have phillips screws - wood screws are slightly longer than the rest of the wood screws
# Remove orange tube on right side rail by "L" in "starlight"
# Remove 4 ball gates including one with switch on move you car lane - 1/4 inch shoulder washer screw in upper left ball gate on rubber sleeved post. - all gates have washers on top of white posts under frames - upper right side gate has washer on top of frame on the star post - lower left ball gate has cut edges that line up with side rail
# Remove 15 white posts - all but 2 have wood screw posts - post on left between movie and video insert is 6-32 with 1/4 inch top - post in upper left corner to right of corner white post has phillips screw
# Remove hex posts - washers on top of playfield under posts. - 5-1/4 inch overall MF by left foot of frogman below bottom jet - 4-3/16 inch overall MF to left of red car in move your car lane - 4-3/16 inch overall MF north west of left jet - 1-1/8 inch FF on shooter rail at bottom - 2 inch FF on shooter rail at top
# Remove metal tubes (1-15/16 overall) used as adjustable posts - large 5/8 inch washer under tubes - nut with star washer under playfield
# Remove 3 metal posts by S in "starlight", have washers on playfield under posts.
# Shooter guage has self shoulder wood screws
# Remove 8 metal posts with black sleeves and nuts under playfield.
# Remove ramp holder on left siderail
# Remove bowl brackets on right siderail
# Raise playfield and remove shroud around creature window - shorter gold colored hex head screws
# Remove creature window - nylock nuts with washers under nylocks
# Remove hardware on back board.
 
'''Note:''' There are 20 #44 blulbs and 8 #89 bulbs on playfield

===Ring Chart===
:Shipped with White rings and Red flipper rings

 
{| class="wikitable"
|+ '''Creature From The Black Lagoon Rubber Ring List'''
| Rings - Inside Diameter || Quantity
|-
|align="center"|5/16 ||align="center"| 2
|-
|align="center"|3/4 ||align="center"| 3
|-
|align="center"|1 ||align="center"| 4
|-
|align="center"|1-1/4||align="center"| 1
|-
|align="center"|1-1/2||align="center"| 4
|-
|align="center"|2 ||align="center"| 2
|-
|align="center"|2-1/2||align="center"| 2
|-
|align="center"|Flipper (std 1-1/2) (red)|| 2
|-
|align="center"|Rubber Sleeve (black)||align="center"| 9
|-
|align="center"|Shotter tip||align="center"| 1
|-
|align="center"|3/4 tappered bumper ||align="center"| 1
|-
|align="center"|Ring Bumper (23-6535)|| align="center"| 6
|-
|align="center"|White Rubber Ring 23-6641-1 || align="center"| 8
|-
|align="center"|Total Per Game ||align="center"| 43
|}

Changes from manual - added 2 black sleeves for adjustable post bumpers.

End of guide.

'''Return''' to [[Creature from the Black Lagoon]] page.

Creature from the Black Lagoon Shop Guide

2011-05-08T19:26:34Z

Loupz:

==Creature From The Black Lagoon ( CFTBL ) Shop Out Guide==

There are pictures online at [[http:\\www.theteardown.com TheTearDown.com]]

===Parts to have on hand===
* Bulbs - twenty or so #44 or #47 - a box of #86 for the ramp lights.
* If you want to put lights in your jet bumpers, get 3 light sockets. There are lots of ways to do this. You can tie them to the GI circuit so they are on all the time, you can tie them to the lightning bolts so they work just like the test menu - seperate lights for left, right and center, or you can make them flash when the jet is activated. Google rec.games.pinball for information.
* Rubber ring kit - see chart at end
* Replacements for anything that is obviously broken and probably a protector for the snack bar hole.

=== Start ===
# Remove 3 balls.
# Raise playfield and disconnect wires to ramps (basically any wire running though a hole to the top of the playfield). Make sure all wires can come up through the holes without any encumbrances. Label connectors so they will be easier to reconnect. I use a sharpie permanent ink pen and use the letters of the alphabet - a,b,c...
#Remove wireform from bowl to circular ramp. - 5/8 phillips screw with star washer with washers on top and bottom and star nut on bottom.
# Remove snack bar sign - nylock nut
# Remove Ramp with flim strip credit signs on it - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with washers top and bottom on hex post by snack bar hole - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with washers on top on hex post of left side of wireform - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with washers top and bottom on hext post at rear
# Remove "Big Millions" sign - nylock nut
# Remove right ramp - two 1/4 inch screws shoulder washer on entrace - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with thick washer on top on slingshot hex post
# Remove wireform at "Start Movie" - 3/8 hex head machine screw with washer at rear - 1-1/2 inch wood screw with washer at bottom in rail
# Remove bowl - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with thick washer on top and two smaller 3/8 inch washers under plastic tab on hex post by right flipper - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with smaller washer on top and thick washer under plastic tab on hex post on shooter rail - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with thick washer on top of bracket
# Remove apron to remove wires - 1-1/4 inch white posts with 1-3/4 wood screws holding wire holders on shooter frame
# Remove xxx-13 plastic on left side of shooter lane
# Remove wireform above right slingshot - 1/2 phillips screw with star washer with washer on top and under hex post on slingshot - 5/8 phillips screw with star washer with washer on playfield
# Remove xxx-20 plastic to right of left ramp entrance -remove wire for big millions sign
# Remove xxx-3 snack bar plastic - 1/2 inch machine screw with washer on post with rubber sleeve and clear plastic protector under plastic at post
# Remove xxx-7 plastic to left of "move your car" lane -remove wire for ramp lights (mark wire as it is unique)
# Remove unlimited millions sign in left corner
# Remove xxx-10 plstic under unlimited millions sign
# Remove right side of steel ramp in left corner - 2 hex head screws
# Remove 5-5/8 inch overall hex post with washer on playfield next to left ramp arm.
# Remove rod that raises ramp flap - use plyers to hold the screw
# Raise playfield and remove the left ramp assembly in the left bottom corner
# Remove Left Ramp - 3/8 inch screw with shoulder washer with washers on top and bottom of ramp on next post on shooter rail - 2 wood screws in ramp flap - phillips screw with star washer with washer on top and bottom on post to left of left jet bumper Raise the ramp flap and slide the plastic ramp to the right and remove
# Loosen plastic xxx-1 in left corner -self taping phillips head screw with washer into metal playfield rail '''NOTE''', you may not be able to completely remove it because of the steel ramp, but you need to get under it to remove the steel ramp.
# Remove left side of steel ramp with ramp flap - 3 hex head wood screws
# Remove xxx-1 plastic in corner that you just loosened. - remove unlimited millions sign wire
# Remove xxx-18 plastic on right side of move your car lane - remove super jackpot sign wire
# Remove xxx-15 plastic in upper right corner
# Remove xxx-4 plastic above left outlane
# Remove xxx-5 plastic above right out lane
# Remove left sling shot plastic - 1-1/2 inch FF hex post with washer on top of plastic on top of slingshot # Remove right sling shot plastic - 1-1/2 inch FF hex post with washer on top of plastic on top of slingshot
# Remove bottom lane guides
# Remove jet lids
# remove under playfield troughs -left metal trough has wood screws underneath holding ball guide and shorter hex head screws
# Remove orange star posts - all 6 slings posts are singles - 4 singles above right and left outlanes, note 2 interior posts are 6-32 with 1/4" tops rather than 3/16" - 2 double posts behind and to right of snack bar hole with 2 rings - 2 single posts to right of extra ball insert, bottom has phillips screw - 2 double posts to left of jets with phillips screws - 2 double posts to left of start movie hole - bottom has hex head wood screw - 3 double posts to right of jets have phillips head screws - 3 single posts on left of top lane guides with phillips head screws on bottom 2 - 4 single posts on right side of top lane guides, bottom 2 phillips screws
# Remove 3 top lane guides with organge tubes - all have phillips screws - wood screws are slightly longer than the rest of the wood screws
# Remove orange tube on right side rail by "L" in "starlight"
# Remove 4 ball gates including one with switch on move you car lane - 1/4 inch shoulder washer screw in upper left ball gate on rubber sleeved post. - all gates have washers on top of white posts under frames - upper right side gate has washer on top of frame on the star post - lower left ball gate has cut edges that line up with side rail
# Remove 15 white posts - all but 2 have wood screw posts - post on left between movie and video insert is 6-32 with 1/4 inch top - post in upper left corner to right of corner white post has phillips screw
# Remove hex posts - washers on top of playfield under posts. - 5-1/4 inch overall MF by left foot of frogman below bottom jet - 4-3/16 inch overall MF to left of red car in move your car lane - 4-3/16 inch overall MF north west of left jet - 1-1/8 inch FF on shooter rail at bottom - 2 inch FF on shooter rail at top
# Remove metal tubes (1-15/16 overall) used as adjustable posts - large 5/8 inch washer under tubes - nut with star washer under playfield
# Remove 3 metal posts by S in "starlight", have washers on playfield under posts.
# Shooter guage has self shoulder wood screws
# Remove 8 metal posts with black sleeves and nuts under playfield.
# Remove ramp holder on left siderail
# Remove bowl brackets on right siderail
# Raise playfield and remove shroud around creature window - shorter gold colored hex head screws
# Remove creature window - nylock nuts with washers under nylocks
# Remove hardware on back board.
 
'''Note:''' There are 20 #44 blulbs and 8 #89 bulbs on playfield

===Ring Chart===
:Shipped with White rings and Red flipper rings

 
{| class="wikitable"
|+ '''Creature From The Black Lagoon Rubber Ring List'''
| Rings - Inside Diameter || Quantity
|-
|align="center"|5/16 ||align="center"| 2
|-
|align="center"|3/4 ||align="center"| 3
|-
|align="center"|1 ||align="center"| 4
|-
|align="center"|1-1/4||align="center"| 1
|-
|align="center"|1-1/2||align="center"| 4
|-
|align="center"|2 ||align="center"| 2
|-
|align="center"|2-1/2||align="center"| 2
|-
|align="center"|Flipper (std 1-1/2) (red)|| 2
|-
|align="center"|Rubber Sleeve (black)||align="center"| 9
|-
|align="center"|Shotter tip||align="center"| 1
|-
|align="center"|3/4 tappered bumper ||align="center"| 1
|-
|align="center"|Ring Bumper (23-6535)|| align="center"| 6
|-
|align="center"|White Rubber Ring 23-6641-1 || align="center"| 8
|-
|align="center"|Total Per Game ||align="center"| 43
|}

Changes from manual - added 2 black sleeves for adjustable post bumpers.

End of guide.

'''Return''' to [[Creature from the Black Lagoon]] page.

Cactus Canyon

2011-05-07T22:37:16Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally|| WPC-95 || 1998 || 50066 || 903
|}

[[Cactus Canyon Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Cactus Canyon Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Cactus Canyon faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Monster Bash

2011-05-07T22:36:06Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Williams || WPC-95 || 1998 || 50065 || 3,361
|}

[[Monster Bash Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Monster Bash Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Monster Bash faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

The Championship Pub

2011-05-07T22:34:46Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-95 || 1998 || 50063 || 1,369
|}

[[The Championship Pub Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[The Championship Pub Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that The Championship Pub faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

No Good Gofers

2011-05-07T22:33:02Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Williams || WPC-95 || 1997 || 50061 || 2,711
|}

[[No Good Gofers Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[No Good Gofers Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that No Good Gofers faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Cirqus Voltaire

2011-05-07T22:32:03Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-95 || 1997 || 50062 || 2,704
|}

[[Cirqus Voltaire Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Cirqus Voltaire Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Cirqus Voltaire faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Medieval Madness

2011-05-07T22:31:03Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
| Williams || WPC-95 || 1997 || 50059 || 4,016
|}

[[Medieval Madness Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Medieval Madness Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

:Draw Bridge is acting up - Check the pivot points, they get peened by ball hits and can distort and bind. A bit of work to take apart, they can be flattened or filed to make a smooth pivot point again. LTG :)

:Troll carriages. Gravity can loosen the collar from the cage, and cause binding on the up or down movement. You can re-peen it with a cold chisel. Or braze it. The collar is much thicker than the cage so welding won't work, you'd melt the cage.

:A common problem is a broken wire on the troll head target. Easiest is to take the whole carriage out of game. Remove the bolt holding it to plunger, unplug the connector. Lift up and wiggle out, lean to one side so long part clears playfield hole. Remove nut on plastic piece and remove. Remove troll target. Cut cable tie. Resolder wire good. Check both wires and diode. Reassemble. Put on new cable tie. Install back into game. LTG :)

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

NBA Fastbreak

2011-05-07T22:28:00Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-95 || 1997|| 50053 || 4,414
|}

[[NBA Fastbreak Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[NBA Fastbreak Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that NBA Fastbreak faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Junk Yard

2011-05-07T22:26:36Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
| Williams || WPC-95 || 1996|| 50052 || 3,013
|}

[[Junk Yard Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Junk Yard Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Junk Yard faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Scared Stiff

2011-05-07T22:25:24Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-95 || 1996 || 50048|| 4,028
|}

[[Scared Stiff Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Scared Stiff Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Scared Stiff faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Tales of the Arabian Nights

2011-05-07T22:24:22Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
| Williams || WPC-95 || 1996 || 50047 || 3,128
|}

[[Tales of the Arabian Nights Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Tales of the Arabian Nights Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Tales of the Arabian Nights faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Safecracker

2011-05-07T22:23:10Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-95 || 1996 || 90003 || 1,248
|}

[[Safecracker Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Safecracker Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Safecracker faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Safecracker

2011-05-07T22:22:43Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-95| 1996 || 90003 || 1,248
|}

[[Safecracker Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Safecracker Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Safecracker faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Attack from Mars

2011-05-07T22:20:50Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-95 || 1995 || 50040|| 3,450
|}

[[Attack from Mars Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Attack from Mars Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Attack from Mars faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Congo

2011-05-07T22:19:47Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Williams || WPC-95 || 1995 || 50050 || 2,129
|}

[[Congo Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Congo Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Congo faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

WHO Dunnit

2011-05-07T22:07:13Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally|| WPC-Security || 1995 || 50044 || 2,416
|}

[[WHO Dunnit Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[WHO Dunnit Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that WHO Dunnit faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Jack*Bot

2011-05-07T22:05:37Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
| Williams || WPC-Security || 1995|| 50051 || 2,428
|}

[[Jack*Bot Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Jack*Bot Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Jack*Bot faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Jack*Bot

2011-05-07T22:05:08Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally / Williams || WPC-Security || 1995|| 50051 || 2,428
|}

[[Jack*Bot Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Jack*Bot Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Jack*Bot faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Johnny Mnemonic

2011-05-07T22:04:10Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Williams || WPC-Security|| 1995 || 50042 || 2,756
|}

[[Johnny Mnemonic Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Johnny Mnemonic Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Johnny Mnemonic faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Indianapolis 500

2011-05-07T22:02:55Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-Security || 1995 || 50026 || 2,249
|}

[[Indianapolis 500 Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Indianapolis 500 Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Indianapolis 500 faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

No Fear: Dangerous Sports

2011-05-07T22:01:21Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Williams || WPC-Security || 1995|| 50025 || 4,540
|}

[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that No Fear: Dangerous Sports faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Theatre of Magic

2011-05-07T22:00:05Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-Security || 1995 || 50039 || 6,600
|}

[[Theatre of Magic Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Theatre of Magic Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Theatre of Magic faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Dirty Harry

2011-05-07T21:58:36Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
| Williams || WPC-Security|| 1995 || 50030|| 4,248
|}

[[Dirty Harry Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Dirty Harry Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Dirty Harry faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

The Shadow

2011-05-07T21:57:04Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-Security || 1994 || 50032 || 4,247
|}

[[The Shadow Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[The Shadow Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

:Fast shots to the lower phurba ramp diverted to the right sometimes get stuck because of the switch wireform hanging the ball up. One way to fix this is to get a replacement microswitch with a long wire actuator, and bend it so the activation occurs much later down the wireform ramp, as shown in this photo: [[Media:shadowswitch.jpg]]

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Red & Ted Road Show

2011-05-07T21:55:47Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Williams|| WPC-Security || 1994 || 50024 || 6,259
|}

[[Red & Ted Road Show Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Red & Ted Road Show Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Red & Ted Road Show faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Corvette

2011-05-07T21:54:20Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-Security || 1994 || 50036 || 5,001
|}

[[Corvette Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Corvette Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Corvette faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

Corvette

2011-05-07T21:54:07Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Bally || WPC-xxx || 1994 || 50036 || 5,001
|}

[[Corvette Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[Corvette Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Corvette faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.

The Flintstones

2011-05-07T21:53:00Z

Loupz:

{{WIP}}

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
| Williams || WPC-Security || 1994 || 50029 || 4,779
|}

[[The Flintstones Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]

[[The Flintstones Shop Guide]]

== WPC Specific Issues ==

See [[WPC Specific Issues]]

== Game-Specific Issues ==

Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that The Flintstones faces.

 
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.