https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=MrPinWiki - User contributions [en]2026-10-19T19:29:48ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.39.13https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General&diff=11214General2014-02-09T07:44:50Z<p>Mr: /* Rework Solder Stations */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.<br />
<br />
=Safety=<br />
==Grounded 3-Prong Plug==<br />
[[File:3Prong Clipped.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Typical "clipped" 3rd prong on plug]]<br><br />
If the earth ground prong of a 3-prong plug is clipped or missing, replace the plug. Many of these plugs were clipped, because some older locations where games were placed only had two-prong outlets. The 3rd prong connects the games electrical circuits to "earth ground". In place, it reduces the risk of shock and protects the user. If you have neighboring machines and you feel a "tingle" when you touch the metal rails on both, one or both machines have a missing ground prong.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter set on continuity to ensure that the ground pin is connected to all the metal touchable parts of the game - the rails, the coin door, the legs bolts, etc. Investigate any missing wires and correct. Older games that came without a ground plug should have one added. Attach the green ground wire to the metal frame of the game transformer. Connect ground wires to all touchable metal parts on the game.<br />
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<br />
==Overfusing==<br />
[[File:BoltForAFuse.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The never blow, 1.21 GigaWatt fuse. Obviously, this is NOT recommended.]]<br><br />
Fuses are designed into your game's electrical circuitry to protect the circuits from damage should some component fail and begin to draw too much electrical current. They are designed to be the "weakest link" in the circuit. When too much current is drawn through the circuit, the fuse should be the first part of the circuit to fail.<br />
<br />
Although fuses sometimes fail due to old age or vibration, fuses usually fail for a reason. Locked on coils or flashers, direct shorts of power to ground, and many other reasons will cause a fuse to blow. If you replace a fuse, and it blows again, then you can be sure that something has gone awry.<br />
<br />
Always install fuses at the rating specified for your game. Installing a fuse rated higher than spec may cause some other part of the game circuitry to become the weakest link, and damage parts of the game that the fuse is designed to protect.<br />
<br />
Fuses are rated in terms of voltage and most importantly amps. Fuses are also designed as "fast blow" or "slow blow"/"time delayed blow". Typical sizes for pinball machines are 1.25 inches and 20mm.<br />
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<br />
=Parts to have on hand=<br />
'''All Machines'''<br />
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.<br />
<br />
'''Electromechanical Machines'''<br />
*#455 "Blinker" type bulbs for backglass highlights. Helps with heat in the head as well as they are usually about 50% duty cycle.<br />
*Replacement switch blades and high voltage contacts<br />
<br />
'''Solid State Machines'''<br />
<br />
*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a generic replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.<br />
*Replacement leaf blades and gold flashed contacts<br />
*TIP-102 Transistors<br />
*IN4004 Diodes<br />
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most versatile)<br />
<br />
=Tools of the Trade=<br />
<br />
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.<br />
<br />
==Mechanical Tools==<br />
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches<br />
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy<br />
*Nut driver set, which should include<br />
**1/4" nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts<br />
**5/16 nut driver - used for #6 nuts<br />
**11/32 nut driver - #8 nuts<br />
**3/8 nut driver - used for #10 nuts<br />
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts<br />
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. <br />
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.<br />
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.<br />
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.<br />
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.<br />
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.<br />
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench<br />
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts<br />
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench<br />
*Pliers<br />
*High-brightness LED flashlight<br />
*Magnetic pickup tool<br />
*Magnetic parts dish<br />
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)<br />
<br />
== Electrical Tools ==<br />
<br />
*A few alligator clip leads for testing<br />
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.<br />
*Side cutters<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.<br />
*For Connector Work<br />
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...<br />
**Connector pin pusher .093"<br />
**Connector pin pusher .062"<br />
<br />
'''Molex Crimper Styles'''<br />
<br />
[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]<br />
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. <br />
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<br />
'''Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.<br />
<br />
Portable:<br />
<br />
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.<br />
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)<br><br />
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)<br><br />
<br />
There is also a type of cordless battery powered iron referred to as "cold heat" - these do not work well for any pinball application, due to the lack of control over the quality of the solder joint produced. Avoid these for pinball work.<br />
<br />
Corded:<br />
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)<br><br />
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)<br><br />
*Weller W60P (temperature controlled)<br><br />
Station:<br />
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)<br />
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)<br />
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)<br />
<br />
'''Advanced Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
The move to lead-free manufacturing forced manufacturers to solder at a more tightly controlled, lower temperature. This requirement led to new irons that can deliver lots of heat, quickly. They have heat-up times of less than 10 seconds, and can solder larger joints than conventional irons. They have tips with built-in elements and temperature sensors. The tips show up on eBay, new and used. They are relatively expensive ($10 - $30) but last longer than regular tips. Expect to spend $200 - $400 to kit up with one of these (eBay). They are valuable if you do board work, as the fast heat delivery means the solder melts without overheating the pad. <br />
<br />
Metcal has been making these new irons for some time, so the systems are relatively common on eBay. Metcal systems use high-frequency RF to heat the tip. JBC is a Spanish manufacturer that makes some of the best heat delivery tips out there. <br />
<br />
<br />
Metcal MX-500P<br />
<br />
JBC - these irons really do heat up in 2 seconds (20W handpiece)<br />
<br />
Hakko FM series<br />
<br />
Weller WXT series<br />
<br />
Ersa, Goot, Pace<br />
<br />
==Desoldering Tools==<br />
<br />
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.<br />
<br />
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.<br />
<br />
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.<br />
<br />
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.<br />
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.<br />
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.<br />
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use<br />
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.<br />
<br />
==Rework Solder Stations==<br />
PACE makes good systems, but they are based on legacy heating designs and are slow to get to temperature. Therefore, they are being eclipsed by new systems from companies such as JBC and Metcal. <br />
<br />
*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) <br><br />
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder extractor)<br />
*Aoyue 2703A+ SMD repair & rework. Has soldering iron w/vacuum suction, desoldering gun, and hot air gun.<br />
<br />
==EM Tools==<br />
[[file:SwitchTools.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Leaf switch tools|1) Ignition points file for Tungsten contacts <br>2) Flexstone <br>3) Vendor supplied leaf switch adjustment tool <br>4) Homemade switch adjustment tool <br>5) Push-pull spring tool]]<br><br><br />
*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.<br />
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.<br />
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Cleaning & Restoration Supplies==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Product<br />
!Uses<br />
!Where to get<br />
<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 1<br />
|Light cleaning of plastics and playfield. Dust/dirt removal<br />
|grocery store?<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 2<br />
|General cleaning and polishing of plastics and playfield.<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 3<br />
|Cleaning for metal parts only<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Millwax<br />
|Not recommended for most playfields, except when?<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|90% isopropyl alcohol<br />
|Cleaning PCB boards. Evaporates quickly.<br />
|drug store (CVS, etc)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Deoxit contact cleaner<br />
|electrical contact deoxidizer<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Carnauba wax<br />
|playfield waxing<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Simple green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning, degreaser<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Mean green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Bleche white<br />
|wire assembly<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Krylon Triple Thick<br />
|backglass sealant<br />
|pinrestore.com, bigdaddyenterprises.com<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Lubrication==<br />
In nearly every instance, lubrication should not be used. The exceptions are metal on metal mechanical points (stepper unit pivot points, stepper unit wipers, and the pivot points of '''very few''' mechanical assys.). Although Williams stated to use graphite powder for lubrication on coil plungers where aluminum or brass coil sleeves were used, it is best to just replace the metal coil sleeves with new nylon sleeves ('''Note:''' some brass coil sleeves are integral to the coil's winding, and are not removeable). A general rule of thumb is where metal makes contact with plastic, lubrication is not needed. However, if lubrication is necessary, Super Lube Teflon gel is a very good product to use. However, it should be used very sparingly. When in doubt, under lubrication is better than over lubrication.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:WD-40 01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WD-40 needs no introduction]]<br><br><br><br />
[[File:WD-40 Coin Door.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Removal of Coin Door Sticker Residue with WD-40]]<br><br><br><br />
'''In no instance should WD-40 be used as a lubricant!''' WD-40 is a great product, but should used as intended. It can be used for breaking apart seized screws, bolts, or associated mechanisms, but should thoroughly be cleaned off once a unit has been disassembled.<br><br />
<br />
There is one other good use for WD-40 regarding pinball machines. Coin door stickers, operator stickers on aprons, and game permit stickers all tend to make their way onto pinball machines. WD-40 is a very good product which can be used to remove sticker residue.<br />
It also makes an excellent hand cleaner.<br />
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<br />
==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==<br />
<font color=red>In work</font><br />
<br />
=Preparing Printed Circuit Cards (PCBs) for Shipping or Storage=<br />
<br />
[[Image:PCBWrappedInFoilResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Williams DMD Controller prepared for shipment, wrapped in aluminum foil. This method is a reasonable alternative when an ESD safe bag isn't available.]]<br><br />
Pinball boards (PCBs) are sensitive to Electro-Static Discharge (ESD). Static electricity that builds up in your body or via packaging material that rubs together can "shock" the sensitive components on a PCB, damaging them in doing so.<br />
<br />
Board repair techs go through great pains to ground themselves while working on PCBs.<br />
<br />
If you need to store or to ship a PCB, enclose it in an ESD safe bag. If a bag isn't available, wrap the board in aluminum foil. Both will protect the board from ESD.<br />
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<br />
=How to Twist Wires Together Neatly=<br />
Easy as Pie...<br />
#Chuck both wires in a slow speed drill<br />
#Hold other end firmly<br />
#Engage, and watch with amazement as the wires neatly twist around each-other.<br />
As you can see from the results below, this old technique yields excellent results.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="How to neatly twist two (or more) wires together"><br />
File:WireWindingStart.jpg|<center>Chuck the wires</center><br />
File:WireWindingEnd.jpg|<center>End result</center><br />
File:WireWindingDetail.jpg|<center>End result detail. Nice...</center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
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<br />
=Soldering=<br />
<br />
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering. <br />
<br />
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!<br />
<br />
==Equipment and Supplies==<br />
<br />
===The basic soldering iron===<br />
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. One example is the Weller WESD-51.<br />
<br />
===Tip Cleaner===<br />
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.<br />
<br />
===Solder===<br />
There are three things that matter with solder. <br />
<br />
The diameter. In pinball, .031" is a good general purpose size. Thicker, and you'll be blobbing everywhere except on the biggest joints. Thinner, and it takes a lot of solder to feed a joint.<br />
<br />
The alloy, typically tin-lead, expressed as something like 63/37, which means 63% tin and 37% lead. For pinball, 63/37 is the best overall alloy. The common 60/40 is a shade cheaper, but isn't as good. In particular, it goes through a pasty mode before it hardens. If it is moved while pasty, you can get a bad joint. You can use 60/40, but 63/37 is more reliable. You won't like lead-free solder, as it has to be hotter and does not flow as well. Plus, even good joints look frosty. <br />
<br />
The flux, which might be rosin, no-clean or water soluble. You don't want water soluble, as it can leave an acid residue if not washed. No clean is nice, as it doesn't leave blobs of flux hanging on a joint. Rosin, the classic flux, is aggressive and effective, but leaves joints dirty and should be cleaned with alcohol when used on boards. <br />
<br />
A fourth parameter is the number of solder cores, typically 50 - 66. Doesn't matter for pinball, but a higher core count should be a little easier to use. <br />
<br />
So you will want one of these two types:<br />
- Rosin-core .031 63/37 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-0026). This is super easy to use and will get you the best joints (AKA Kester 44)<br />
- No-clean .031 6337 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-8801). Easy to use, no cleaning needed (AKA Kester 245). <br />
<br />
<br />
If you want to get solder locally, Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. <br />
<br />
As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. However, the US still has few restrictions on the use and sale of leaded solder. <br />
<br />
Here is one supplier of Kester 245 "no-clean" solder (24-6337-5400 with an obsolete 50 core count): [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life] <br />
<br />
A useful supplier is MCM Electronics. They carry a good range of 63/37 solders by good brands such as Kester and Multicore, and also sell smaller spools. MCM also has good pinball cabinet speakers, and often has free shipping for orders over $50.<br />
[http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?cataf=&view=list&w=solder+63%2F37&x=0&y=0 MCM Electronics 63/37 Solders]<br />
<br />
Mouser also carries a good range of 63/37 solders<br />
[http://www.mouser.com/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?P=1yzt5jhZ1yzxbyq Mouser 63/37 solders]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Under no circumstances should Acid-core (plumbing) solder be used anywhere on a pinball machine.'''<br />
<br />
===Optional Equipment===<br />
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.<br />
<br />
==Soldering wires==<br />
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything. <br />
<br />
Here are the simple steps:<br />
<br />
#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.<br />
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.<br />
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.<br />
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool. <br />
<br />
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts through the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or "hemo-stats" are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, you may have created what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.<br />
<br />
'''Things to Know'''<br />
<br />
*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and the solder joint will be unreliable.<br />
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. Once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.<br />
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that threading the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.<br />
<br />
== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==<br />
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.<br><br />
<br />
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are delicate and can become damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied for too long, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult. It is better to use more heat for less time than less heat for more time.<br><br />
<br />
When the replacement of a chip is necessary, it is recommended to use a chip socket (in most all instances - there are some exceptions), versus soldering a replacement chip directly onto the circuit board. The reasoning is two-fold:<br />
<br />
# Adding a chip socket reduces the amount of heat applied to a circuit board in the future should the same chip fail.<br />
# If the same chip does fail, replacement of the chip will be much easier.<br />
<br />
When soldering a chip socket in place, skipping from side to side for subsequent joints or skipping every other pin as you solder can help alleviate the risk of heating up a small part of the board, causing lifted pads and traces. A good solderer with the proper equipment can solder a 40 pin chip socket into place on a PCB in about 2 minutes.<br><br />
<br />
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Socket check work.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Testing for (lack of) continuity between chip socket positions]]<br><br />
After a chip socket has been soldered onto a board, it is equally a good practice to check for continuity between the socket pin and the adjoining circuitry, and discontinuity between adjacent socket positions. If there isn't continuity between the chip socket and its associated circuits, check / inspect the work performed. Likewise, if there is continuity between neighboring chip socket positions, check for excess solder or foreign material creating a conductive bridge between the two.<br><br />
<br />
'''Note:''' in some cases, a PCB has traces or pads intentionally tied together between adjacent chip sockets. Consult the schematics of the particular board being worked on to verify if this is the case, when two sockets are determined to have continuity.<br />
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<br />
=== Bending Discrete Through-hole Components ===<br />
[[File:BendingThroughHoleComponents.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to bend through-hole components using a drop target.]]<br><br />
An easy way to bend resistors, capacitors, etc to length when replacing them is to use a popsicle stick or an old drop target, as pictured at left. Bend the leads around the target. This works well for many older game systems like Bally -17/-35, Williams, etc.<br />
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<br />
===Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"===<br />
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.<br />
<br />
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.<br />
<br />
[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]]<br><br />
'''Procedure''':<br><br />
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".<br><br />
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough.<br><br />
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.<br><br />
#Solder the first side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place.<br><br />
#All done!<br />
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<br />
===Using an old Socket to Align SIPs and Headers===<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionSIPs.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Using a socket to align SIP (Single Inline Package) machine pin socket strips.]]<br><br />
Using an old socket to position two SIPs perfectly is easy, as shown in the picture at left.<br />
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<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionHeaders.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to align header pins across two header strips.]]<br><br />
Likewise, an old socket can be used to position headers perfectly in line when more than one header strip is used/needed.<br />
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<br />
=Desoldering=<br />
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each<br />
<br />
Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts<br />
<br />
=DIP (Dual In-line Package) Pin Numbering Convention=<br />
[[File:Dip14pins.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DIP 14 pin]]<br>The diagram at left shows standard pin numbering for integrated circuits. Pin #1 is always located at the chips "dot" or if not dot, immediately to the left of the chips "notch". The pin "legs" are then numbered sequentially around the chip counter-clockwise. This convention is observed for DIP packages of all sizes. <br />
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<br />
=Testing an integrated circuit=<br />
<br />
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.<br />
<br />
This test works for many 74XX series ICs.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]<br />
'''Procedure''':<br />
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test. <br />
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".<br />
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if testing multiple chips on the same board.<br />
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
'''Interpreting the results:'''<br />
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.<br><br />
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.<br><br />
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.<br><br />
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.<br />
*Comparing your results against results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
Readings outside of this range may indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.<br />
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<br />
=Testing fuses=<br />
<br />
[[File:BuzzingAFuseTheWrongWay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An example of why you MUST remove a fuse to "buzz" it. This '''empty''' fuse holder is for the GI circuit in a Williams game. The meter is showing continuity with no fuse present. The meter is finding a path back through the transformer secondary.]]<br><br />
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.<br />
<br />
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".<br />
<br />
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading, as shown in the picture at left. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.<br />
<br />
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job of being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.<br />
<br />
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.<br />
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<br />
=Testing a Bridge Rectifier=<br />
<br />
''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.''<br />
<br />
[[File:TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Four Connections to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.]]<br><br />
The picture at left illustrates the 4 readings to be taken when testing a bridge rectifier.<br />
<br />
'''Procedure:'''<br />
<br />
#Place your DMM into "diode test". <br />
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge. <br />
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes). <br />
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge <br />
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen. <br />
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<br />
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit. This part of the bridge is good.]]<br> <br />
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc). <br />
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<br />
=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red><need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on FETs></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on SCRs></font><br><br />
<br />
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used except for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. <br />
<br />
When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own. <br />
<br />
<br />
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)<br />
<br />
[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:<br />
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right<br />
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC<br />
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE<br />
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)<br />
<br />
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.<br />
<br />
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.<br><br />
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''.<br><br />
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).<br><br />
'''Note: A transistor can "test" good and still be bad!!'''<br><br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the red lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the black lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-A13''' transistor.<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-U45''' transistor (or '''NDS-U45''' or '''CEN-U45''' which are equivalents).<br />
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
=Testing a coil=<br />
<br />
If a drive transistor shorts, providing an unintended path to ground for power at a solenoid, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil winding gets hot enough, it will burn through the protective coating on the winding, shorting adjacently wound wires and reducing the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the failed driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged immediately after power on.<br />
<br />
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is wise to check each coil's resistance '''*before*''' switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it! Even examining each coil in the game for burned coil wrappers may help identify a shorted coil.<br />
<br />
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power winding and a hold winding. These are easily identified as they have three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.<br />
<br />
==Testing resistance==<br />
To test a coil's resistance:<br />
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs. <br />
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. Note: Some flipper coils will read less than 2 ohms but still be fine.<br />
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (i.e. the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or drive transistor issue. <br />
<br />
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before powering the game on again.<br />
<br />
==Testing for coil power==<br />
With the machine powered on:<br />
* set your DMM to DC<br />
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one). <br />
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-75v.<br />
<br />
Please note that some games have a coin door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids.<br />
<br />
==Testing the coil diode==<br />
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.<br />
<br />
To test a coil diode:<br />
<br />
* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.<br />
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.<br />
* Place the black lead on the banded side.<br />
* Place the red lead on the non-banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.<br />
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'<br />
<br />
==Testing the driver transistors==<br />
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=Basic Sound Troubleshooting=<br />
Regardless of the manufacturer, there are some simple steps to follow if no sound is present. Below are the steps from simplest to more complicated.<br />
<br />
# Make sure the speaker is properly connected. If female crimp spade connectors are used on the wiring connecting to the speaker terminals, it is not uncommon for the connectors to come loose or even break. If the leads to the speakers are soldered onto the speaker terminals, make certain the wires are soldered well by gently tugging on the wires.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the speaker is good. If no sound is coming out of the speaker, not even a hum when the volume pot is turned up, check to see if the speaker is not blown. For what it is worth, even a speaker with a ripped cone can put out some sound in most cases. The sound may be distorted, but it should be present. There are two ways to test a speaker. The safest way is to hook an ohmmeter up to the two speaker leads, and see if the resistance equals the impedance of the speaker. Most, if not all speakers in pinball machines are either 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The other method for testing a speaker is to hook a 9v battery up to the speaker leads. Prior to hooking up a battery, it is important to disconnect the speaker outputs on the sound board. This will isolate the speaker from the sound board completely. Once the battery is hooked up, the speaker cone should either pull in or flex out, depending on how the battery's polarity was connected to the speaker. '''Do not allow the battery to be connected to the speaker for very long'''.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume potentiometer (pot) is properly connected, if one is used (newer machines like WMS WPC, Stern / Sega White Star, and stern SAM systems use digital potentiometers). If turning the volume pot up does not result in any sound, turn the pot the opposite direction. If no mechanical pot is used, skip the next step.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume pot is good. Using an ohmmeter. connect the leads to the volume pot, and turn the pot back in forth. When the pot is turned completely one way, it should read close to zero ohms (full volume). When turned the opposite direction, the reading should be close to the value of what the pot's rating (pots in pinball machines roughly range from 5 kohms to 25 kohms depending on the manufacturer). Pots sometime develop "dead spots". When the pot is turned from its lowest setting (highest resistance value) to its highest setting (0 ohm resistance), the resistance value should slowly decrease. While turning the pot, if the value spikes to 0 and resumes to a higher value than 0, the pot has a dead spot. TV tuner cleaner can be used to sometimes rectify this problem. Even exercising the pot back and forth can resolve dead spots in a pinch.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the output connections on the sound board are good. If the sound board in question has header pins on the output to the speaker / volume pot, check for cracked header joints. Short of a visual inspection with the board removed from the game, try wiggling the output connector. This does not definitely prove that there are cracked header joints, but it shows that either the headers or the harness connector is at fault. Additionally, check for bad connectors inside the speaker output housing connection. If the sound board in question uses edge finger connections, check the edge connector inside the housing of the output to the speaker. In either case, if the output harness uses an insulation displacement connector (IDC), check to make sure the wires are securely seated inside the connector of the housing.<br><br><br />
#In some but not all instances, sound boards use a 5-legged amplifier with a heat sink attached. Sound boards with this type of amp may have cracked solder joints at the legs of the amp. If gently wiggling the amps heat sink makes sound cut in and out, suspect cracked solder joints on the legs of the amp.<br><br />
<br />
Remaining issues are typically sound board specific. Please review the appropriate repair pages regarding the sound board in question.<br />
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<br />
=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=<br />
Need to cover...<br><br />
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)<br><br />
SOIC to DIP adapters<br><br />
<br />
==Resistor Networks==<br />
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations"><br />
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Bussed Resistor Network</b></center><br />
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Isolated Resistor Network</b></center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
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[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.<br />
<br />
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1.<br><br />
<font color=Red><need a picture of this></font><br />
<br />
=The Switch Matrix=<br />
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.<br />
<br />
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required. <br />
<br />
<u>'''How a switch matrix works'''</u><br />
<br />
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.<br />
<br />
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse). <br />
<br />
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.<br><br />
<br />
<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center><br />
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<br />
=Switch Matrix IN WORK=<br />
<youtube v="Bo3wVuyJtXA" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<youtube v="rNx2D6KeAxQ" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:NormalSwitchMatrixOperation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Normal Switch Matrix Operation]]<br />
[[Image:ShortedDiodeFailureInSwitchMatrix.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Implications of a Shorted Diode in the Switch Matrix]]<br />
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<br />
=General Illumination=<br />
<br />
General Illumination is lighting that switches on (generally) when game power is turned on. Some general illumination circuits are switched on by an electromechanical relay (EM games, Williams System 11, and all eras of solid state Gottlieb games for instance). Some GI circuits are controlled by the MPU (WPC games). General illumination lamps are essentially the same as Christmas tree lights. They come on when power is applied.<br />
<br />
[[File:SST-GIModification.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Underside of Starship Troopers playfield showing mod to top lane guide GI lamp installation.]]<br><br><br />
Some GI sockets are very difficult to get to, like in Sega's Starship Troopers. One way to ease the job is to get at the lamps from under the playfield where possible. This requires a small modification to your game and some short wood screws. In the picture at left, the OEM staples have been removed and replaced with a standard pinball target screw. One screw is really enough since the lamp isn't going anywhere. To replace a lamp, simply remove the screw, pull the socket, replace the lamp, and reinstall. Make certain the length of the screw will not protrude through the top of the playfield. Those who prefer the look of LEDs should consider using LEDs in these tough to reach places.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=The Lamp Matrix=<br />
<br />
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.<br />
<br />
All EM's control lamps with switches on relay stacks, or wipers on disc units.<br />
<br />
'''How the lamp matrix works'''<br />
<br />
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.<br />
<br />
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.<br />
<br />
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''<br />
<br />
#Fewer wires<br />
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp matrix problems'''<br />
<br />
#Single lamp out<br />
#Single lamp locked on<br />
#multiple lamps in a row<br />
#multiple lamps in a column<br />
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not<br />
<br />
'''Typical causes'''<br />
<br />
#Wiring shorts<br />
#Shorted diode(s)<br />
<br />
=How coils, flashers, and motors are turned on=<br />
<br />
In most machines, every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at all coil lugs. Exceptions are...<br><br />
*Williams System 11 and Data East/Sega games which have an A/C (side) select relay that switches power between two banks...a bank of coils and a bank of flashers.<br />
*Flipper coils on Data East games that use the Solid State Flipper Board. The SSFB provides power to the coils only after the cabinet flipper button switch is closed.<br />
<br />
[[File:CoilPowerDiagram.jpg|400px|left|thumb|A simple representation of how power is always present at all coil lugs, waiting to "find ground" via a switch. Solid state pinball machines use transistors to "switch" power to ground (a TIP-102 transistor for instance)]]<br><br />
If you set your DMM to DC voltage, place the black lead of your DMM on game ground such as the ground braid or the side rail, and place the red lead of your DMM on either coil lug, you should read nominal coil voltage (exactly what voltage level depends on the game system). Your DMM reads the voltage at both/all coil lugs because, when the coil is off, there is no current through the coil to cause a voltage drop. Power present at one coil lug is guaranteed to be present at the other coil lug unless the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is disconnected from the lug.<br />
<br />
Referencing the diagram at left, placing the red probe of your DMM at any point labeled "P", and the black lead of your DMM on game ground (labeled "G"), should read nominal coil voltage.<br />
<br />
All that is required for the coil to "fire" is for the ground lug of the coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor, or by closing a switch that creates a path to ground. <br />
<br />
Note that this also a good example of how to test a coil, and the power circuit. Grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly. If the coil does not fire, then either the coil is not receiving power, or the coil winding has a break in it, or the coil winding is not attached securely to the coil's solder tab(s).<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Flippers=<br />
<br />
;How does a flipper work?<br />
:Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the coil to overheat or the fuse to blow. Note that it takes less power to hold the flipper up than it does to pull the plunger in for the initial flip due to the effect the metal plunger has on what is initially an air-core coil.<br />
<br />
;High Voltage flipper operation<br />
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.<br />
<br />
:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.<br />
<br />
:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.<br />
<br />
:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.<br />
<br />
;Solid State Flipper operation<br />
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.<br />
<br />
:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.<br />
<br />
:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.<br />
<br />
;Summary of EOS switch function for various types of games<br />
*EM: EOS switch shorts hold winding until flipper is actuated. This allows the power coil to provide full strength during the flipper movement but switch over to the lower power hold winding at the end of movement. In reality, both the power and hold coils are in series during hold operation.<br />
*Data East: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40 ms) switch-over from 50V to 8V for hold operation. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. See Maverick game manual page 90 for theory of operation. <br />
*Stern: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40ms) switchover to 1ms pulses every 12ms to hold the coil up. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. For a description of Stern flipper operation, see [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/BATMAN_SGM/BATMAN_SEC5_CHP2.pdf Stern Batman TDK Manual Section 5 Chapter 2 Page 106]<br />
*Williams: Fliptronic board provides CPU-controlled coil drivers for the flippers. When EOS switch closes power is switched to the hold winding. Williams WPC flipper problems are discussed in the [[Williams_WPC#Flipper_Problems]] section.<br />
<br />
==Weak Flippers - What to check==<br />
[[File:CoilSleeveWithInternalRingResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn coil sleeve, with an internal "ring" worn into it. This ring prevented the plunger from being fully pulled in.]]<br><br />
There are many problems that can lead to weak flippers. Some flipper problems are unique to EM games, but there are many problems common to both EM and SS games.<br />
Problems can be either electrical or mechanical. Below is a list of items to check. General things to note are whether both flippers are weak or just one, if the flipper won't flip will it stay up if the bat is manually moved to the up position, and does the flipper bat move easily when moved by hand. The following list details problems that can cause weak flippers.<br />
<br />
#End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch dirty. <br>The power winding of a flipper coil is only a few ohms of resistance so it doesn't take too much added resistance in the EOS switch to degrade the flipper power. If an EOS switch is not making contact at all the flipper will likely not flip, but will hold if you manually actuate the flipper.<br />
#Flipper switch dirty. <br>For EM games, flipper power is provided through the flipper switch. Added resistance of a fouled switch can weaken flippers.<br />
#Coil sleeve worn or dirty. <br>Cleaning the coil plunger and sleeve will improve flipper performance. Some older games had metal sleeves that should be replaced with modern nylon sleeves. Even when wear can not be seen, replacing the coil sleeve often helps.<br />
#Coil stop or plunger mushroomed. <br>Coils operate best when there is a flat surface between the plunger end and the coil stop. A mushroomed coil stop or plunger can cause the flipper to buzz when held up.<br />
#Flipper spring too tight. <br>This can also result in noisy flippers when held up. The flipper spring should be adjusted so that it can barely return the flippers to their resting postion when the playfield is up.<br />
#Flipper bushing binding. <br>A worn flipper bushing or a misadjusted flipper bat can result in binding that impedes flipper movement. Make sure there is a small amount of vertical play in the flipper to prevent binding.<br />
#Hogged out fiber link. <br>Over time the holes in the flipper links can become elongated. The play in the flipper movement results in wasted coil movement and thus reduced flipper strength.<br />
#Power issues. <br>Make sure you are getting full voltage at the flipper coil. Usually a power problem will cause both flippers to be weak.<br />
#Drive transistor bad (SS only) <br>In solid state games it is possible to have a transistor that is bad but still somewhat operational. Usually the bad transistor will get noticeably hotter than other similar transistors.<br />
#Power Winding bad. <br>Coil failures are rare, but check from broken solder connections and broken coil wires at the coil lugs.<br />
<br />
=Changing Batteries=<br />
Solid state machines have batteries to save high score and setting information when the machine is powered off. Usually these are three AA batteries mounted on the CPU board. They should be changed annually to prevent leakage that will damage the CPU board.<br />
<br />
Batteries can be changed with the machine powered on so that settings are maintained. Some people recommend changing one battery at a time, but this is only to help ensure that the new batteries are installed with the correct polarity.<br />
<br />
The best thing you can do for your game is to install a remote battery holder, which moves the batteries completely off of the CPU board. See the specific game system section for instructions to perform this simple modification.<br />
<br />
=Coil Chart=<br />
<br />
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at<br />
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html<br />
<br />
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Chart=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Voltage (V)<br />
!Current(A)<br />
!Candle Power<br />
!Life (hours)<br />
!Base<br />
!Typical Use<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|44<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|47<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|55<br />
|7.0<br />
|.41<br />
|2.00<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47<br> '''Not a good replacement in pop bumpers or behind backglasses (too much heat generated)'''<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|63<br />
|7.0<br />
|.63<br />
|3.0<br />
|1,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Used in early Williams solid state games like Flash.<br> Found in Williams games as late as High Speed; typically installed in series<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|67<br />
|13.5<br />
|.59<br />
|4.0<br />
|5,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Exclusively used as flash lamps on Gottlieb (Premier) games<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|73<br />
|14.0<br />
|.80<br />
|.30<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|86<br />
|6.3<br />
|.20<br />
|.40<br />
|20,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism;Gottlieb Victory ramp chaser lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|89<br />
|13.0<br />
|.58<br />
|6.00<br />
|750<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|159<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.34<br />
|5000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the #555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|194<br />
|14.0<br />
|.27<br />
|2.00<br />
|1,500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Whitewater Topper Lamps<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (instrument panel / dash lamps)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|199<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.25<br />
|32.00<br />
|1500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Alternate for 1156 lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|313<br />
|28<br />
|0.17<br />
|3.5<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|447<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|455<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.5<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Blinker<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|545<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.31<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|555<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|906<br />
|13.0<br />
|.69<br />
|6.00<br />
|1000<br />
|T-5 Wedge<br />
|Flash Lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1156<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.1<br />
|32.00<br />
|1,200<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed II beacon lamp and Creature from the Black Lagoon hologram projection lamp<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (reverse and front turn signal lamp in some vehicles)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1251<br />
|28.0<br />
|.23<br />
|3.00<br />
|2,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1683<br />
|28.0<br />
|1.02<br />
|32.00<br />
|500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed, F-14 Tomcat, and Rescue 911 beacon lamps; Fire! flame tube projection lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1847<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.38<br />
|5,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Dimmer, longer lasting version of 47 bulb; for areas where vibration is a factor (pop bumpers, etc.)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.<br />
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.<br />
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.<br />
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)<br />
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter<br />
<br />
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Sockets=<br />
<br />
Some later games have illuminated buttons for start and possibly other functions. These are typically located on the front of the cabinet. Instructions on replacing the lamp in those switches can be found [http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/installation_illuminated.htm here].<br />
<br />
=Fuse Table=<br />
<br />
<center><font size="4">'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</font></center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center><br />
<br />
{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 5A<br />
| BR, DC coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 10A<br />
| Main, BR, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|- align="left"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils-under PF<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Displays<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Service outlet<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Main line power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils, Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/16A<br />
| High Voltage on SDB<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Pop bumpers (Sys80/80A/80B), Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| Display power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main, coils, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 4A<br />
| 12v/5v power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB<br />
| PS, lamps, displays<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| 5A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 15A<br />
| General Illumination<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 20A<br />
| Switched Lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Display high voltage<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Power supply (displays)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB<br />
| Display driver board<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Aux board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Sound board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Power supply, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| 5v power (L7 games)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 20A<br />
| General illumination<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 1/10A<br />
| Cabinet, displays<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A <br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega &amp; New Stern'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| Display<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB<br />
| Display<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB<br />
| 12v PS F101<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Lamps, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB<br />
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Coils, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB<br />
| Switched lamps, line<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Line, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB<br />
| Coils main F108<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Power line, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T2.5A SB<br />
| Audio F501, F502<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Resistors=<br />
Resistors typically have a standard color coding scheme, (the exceptions are some power resistors which have the value and wattage inked on the resistor), which is used to identify the resistor's value and tolerance. The resistor's value and tolerance can be identified on this [http://samengstrom.com/24614782/en/read/4_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes?history=5107960,24614782 website] by clicking the appropriate color bands.<br />
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<br />
=Game Software (ROMs)=<br />
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features. These home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case, it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]<br />
<br />
Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. DO NOT depend on the labels on the replacement roms "matching" a direction on your machine! ALWAYS check the orientation based on the notches. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement. <br />
<br />
Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.<br />
<br />
Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.<br />
<br />
=Counterfeit Integrated Circuits=<br />
<br />
[[File:MOS 6532.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bogus 6532 Chips]]<br />
As time passes, the need for through hole integrated circuits (IC chips) in current manufacturing decreases. Most consumable electronics today are using surface mount ICs. However, through hole ICs are what nearly 90% of all solid state pinball machines use on circuit boards. And as the need decreases, the price increases. Enter the counterfeiters. It may sound absurd, but there is a whole "underground" industry of counterfeit IC chips being created. How are they typically counterfeited? Old ICs are sourced, the top of the chip is either sanded or painted over with the correct identifiers as to what chip it is, and a new identifier is inked over. Some counterfeit chips are fairly obvious (see the pic to the left to view two sanded IC tops), while others are not so obvious.<br><br />
<br />
The moral to this is know who you are buying from. Avoid buying components from sellers who offer product at "too good to be true" prices. Some of these types of sellers peddle their product on eBay, and originate from the Far East. Keep in mind that even trusted sellers are not totally immune from counterfeit chips, but the really good sellers have a better grasp on reducing the sales of counterfeit chips from their inventory.<br />
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<br />
=Tumbling Parts to Clean Them=<br />
[[File:TarnishedMetalPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A batch of playfield posts, etc from a Gottlieb Buckaroo.]]<br><br />
A quick way to shine a lot of metal parts is to use a "parts tumbler". (Technically, what is referred to in this section is a Vibrating Polisher - the name comes from a rock tumbler polisher, which can also be used but takes much longer.) Tumblers can typically be purchased at Bass Pro Shops as shooting enthusiasts use them to polish brass cartridges. One of the "old standards" is the [http://www.berrysmfg.com/product-i14546-c47-g8-b0-p0-400_Tumbler.aspx model 400 made by Berry's Manufacturing]. Crushed walnut shell media works well. It can be acquired at pet stores where it is sold as lizard bedding. For gentle less aggressive tumbling, use corn cob media. Additives such as "Flitz" or even a squirt of Novus 3 have been used to improve results. KIT Scratch Out also works very well for this application.<br />
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<br />
[[File:TumbledBuckARooPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Ah yes...nice and shiny. These parts were tumbled for about 24 hours in crushed walnut shell media.]]<br><br />
Tumbling approaches the point of diminishing returns after about 24 hours. Tumbling past 24 hours doesn't yield much improvement.<br />
<br />
To remove the walnut shell media from flat-blade screws, a dental pick works well.<br><br />
To remove the media from Gottlieb "Speed Nuts" or Acorn Nuts, shake them inside a plastic container. The media falls right out.<br />
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<br />
=How to Properly File Switch Contacts=<br />
This is a stub<br />
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<br />
=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
:Check the tightness of all under playfield mechanisms. It's not uncommon for mechanisms (even with lock nuts) to loosen up over time. Do not overtighten and strip out any holes, just snug them in. If you find any loose holes, repair with glue and toothpicks. Once everything is tight again, mechanism action will be crisper.<br />
<br />
==Leveling the Game==<br />
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting the Game Pitch==<br />
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.<br />
<br />
==Balls==<br />
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.<br />
<br />
:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting flippers==<br />
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.<br />
<br />
:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.<br />
<br />
:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.<br />
<br />
:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.<br />
<br />
:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting drop targets==<br />
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well). Take caution in cleaning the drop target face. If a face is stamped with artwork, most chemicals (even mild ones) will remove the artwork.<br />
<br />
:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.<br />
<br />
===Williams===<br />
:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.<br />
<br />
:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.<br />
<br />
:Later Williams' drop banks went to a two-spring design, one to pull the target down, and one coil spring to push the target forward on reset. This design started sometime around the Big Guns era. There's not a lot of adjustment needed in this type of target other than to clean them very well, and to ensure that the rubber grommets and the washer/screw combination are not too tight. They should be tightened just enough so the target will reset properly, but not so much that the target drops slowly. The weak points of this design are the ledge the drop targets rest on, and the studs used to hold the drop target reset coil stop. Originally, a small strip of tempered, spring steel was used for the ledge. This piece of spring steel was riveted to the drop target assy. frame. If it cracks or breaks, a single target or targets in the bank will not properly reset, as there is no ledge for them to rest in the up position. Williams realized this issue, and later versions of this type of drop target assy., somewhere around Earthshaker, were made with a replaceable ledge. Likewise, the coil stops were mounted with studs integrated into the drop target frame assy. These studs can snap off flush with the frame, allowing only one side or neither to hold the coil stop in place. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Gottlieb===<br />
:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their original design. There are 2 discrete springs used; one to pull the drops in the proper direction to reset correctly, and another to provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.<br />
<br />
:The 2-spring Gottlieb design changed during the system 80B era. This design change moved the reset coil from the outside of the drop target assy. to the underside, center of the assy. on small and single banks. Multiple reset coils were still used on banks larger than 4 targets. The benefit of the new design was less moving parts and a slightly smaller mounting footprint. However, the newer design eliminated the two spring design, and the smooth even stroke for the reset. While the targets still drop down smartly, on reset occasionally they will reset too high, or some targets will fail to reset, if the reset coil is not adjusted properly. Well beyond the time of the initial design change, some System 3 games use a combination of the old and new style drop target assys. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Bally===<br />
:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.<br />
<br />
:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place. Be sure any added shims don't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.<br />
<br />
:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.<br />
<br />
:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chiclet" style for over 25 years.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Stern (Classic)===<br />
:Classic Stern drops, commonly referred to as "chiclets", were originally similar to the Bally "tombstone" style, and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the playfield, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.<br />
<br />
:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking a pop bumper==<br />
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.<br />
<br />
:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.<br />
<br />
:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.<br />
<br />
:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.<br />
<br />
==Tuning a spinner==<br />
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.<br />
<br />
:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 2000 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.<br />
<br />
:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.<br />
<br />
:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.<br />
<br />
:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==<br />
:Most would ask why you would <b>want</b> to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.<br />
<br />
:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.<br />
<br />
:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.<br />
<br />
:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).<br />
<br />
:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.<br />
<br />
:Shaking a pinball is a part of the game, and possibly a greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.<br />
<br />
:Another trick is to ensure the playfield is attached solidly in some way to the cabinet. Older games have a metal clamping bracket in the cabinet to lock down the playfield, allowing better nudging action. Some older games use screws to attach the playfield to the cabinet. Metal hanger brackets used on newer machines take some of the nudging force away by allowing the playfield's suspension to absorb some of the force. A piece of cardboard folded and wedged at the playfield apron will help remove this factor and allowing more subtle shaking of the machine. This in turn will allow a tighter tilt if desired since the playfield will react to smaller nudges versus stock.<br />
<br />
==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==<br />
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).<br />
<br />
:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.<br />
<br />
:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.<br />
<br />
:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking lane guides==<br />
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.<br />
<br />
:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.<br />
<br />
:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size smaller than needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.<br />
<br />
:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.<br />
<br />
:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.<br />
<br />
:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or has its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.<br />
<br />
==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==<br />
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.<br />
<br />
:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.<br />
<br />
==Plungers==<br />
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.<br />
<br />
:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.<br />
<br />
:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a weak spring to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.<br />
<br />
==Coil Sleeves==<br />
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.<br />
<br />
:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid. If a coil plunger is particularly mushroomed, replace it.<br />
<br />
==Connectors and Soldering==<br />
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems. A steel or brass wire bottle brush of the appropriate size works well to clean Jones plugs, and you can get a very fine nylon bottle brush to clean the female connectors. Don't use a metal brush to clean the female side unless you're sure to find and clean up any broken brush strands.<br />
<br />
:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Make sure any wire management straps are being used to support the weight of the harness going into the cabinet instead of depending on the header pin to support all that weight. Resoldering the header pins will fix the cracking and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.<br />
<br />
:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.<br />
<br />
==Slingshots==<br />
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back. Replace the sling switches with new switches or replace just the blade if they have been bent and mangled from incorrect adjustments. It's easier but more expensive to replace the entire switch vs. getting the blade parts (blade parts alone are <$1.00, new switches anywhere from $2.75-$6.00 depending on bracket installed/not and vendor).<br />
<br />
:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.<br />
<br />
:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is threefold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling). Thirdly, they prevent a ball from working its way under the rubber and getting trapped in the triangle under the sling plastic.<br />
<br />
:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. Grasp the actuator arm and rock it slightly at a right angle to its normal activation arc to check for wear. You will usually see some lateral slop in a sling mechanism; if it's excessive power will be lost on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or use a small nylon washer to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).<br />
<br />
==Standup/stationary Targets==<br />
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent so the target leans backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.<br />
<br />
:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is breached or gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes. Inspect the switch blades that make up the target and straighten any out that are mangled.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General&diff=11213General2014-02-09T07:42:05Z<p>Mr: /* Electrical Tools */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.<br />
<br />
=Safety=<br />
==Grounded 3-Prong Plug==<br />
[[File:3Prong Clipped.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Typical "clipped" 3rd prong on plug]]<br><br />
If the earth ground prong of a 3-prong plug is clipped or missing, replace the plug. Many of these plugs were clipped, because some older locations where games were placed only had two-prong outlets. The 3rd prong connects the games electrical circuits to "earth ground". In place, it reduces the risk of shock and protects the user. If you have neighboring machines and you feel a "tingle" when you touch the metal rails on both, one or both machines have a missing ground prong.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter set on continuity to ensure that the ground pin is connected to all the metal touchable parts of the game - the rails, the coin door, the legs bolts, etc. Investigate any missing wires and correct. Older games that came without a ground plug should have one added. Attach the green ground wire to the metal frame of the game transformer. Connect ground wires to all touchable metal parts on the game.<br />
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<br />
==Overfusing==<br />
[[File:BoltForAFuse.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The never blow, 1.21 GigaWatt fuse. Obviously, this is NOT recommended.]]<br><br />
Fuses are designed into your game's electrical circuitry to protect the circuits from damage should some component fail and begin to draw too much electrical current. They are designed to be the "weakest link" in the circuit. When too much current is drawn through the circuit, the fuse should be the first part of the circuit to fail.<br />
<br />
Although fuses sometimes fail due to old age or vibration, fuses usually fail for a reason. Locked on coils or flashers, direct shorts of power to ground, and many other reasons will cause a fuse to blow. If you replace a fuse, and it blows again, then you can be sure that something has gone awry.<br />
<br />
Always install fuses at the rating specified for your game. Installing a fuse rated higher than spec may cause some other part of the game circuitry to become the weakest link, and damage parts of the game that the fuse is designed to protect.<br />
<br />
Fuses are rated in terms of voltage and most importantly amps. Fuses are also designed as "fast blow" or "slow blow"/"time delayed blow". Typical sizes for pinball machines are 1.25 inches and 20mm.<br />
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<br />
=Parts to have on hand=<br />
'''All Machines'''<br />
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.<br />
<br />
'''Electromechanical Machines'''<br />
*#455 "Blinker" type bulbs for backglass highlights. Helps with heat in the head as well as they are usually about 50% duty cycle.<br />
*Replacement switch blades and high voltage contacts<br />
<br />
'''Solid State Machines'''<br />
<br />
*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a generic replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.<br />
*Replacement leaf blades and gold flashed contacts<br />
*TIP-102 Transistors<br />
*IN4004 Diodes<br />
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most versatile)<br />
<br />
=Tools of the Trade=<br />
<br />
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.<br />
<br />
==Mechanical Tools==<br />
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches<br />
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy<br />
*Nut driver set, which should include<br />
**1/4" nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts<br />
**5/16 nut driver - used for #6 nuts<br />
**11/32 nut driver - #8 nuts<br />
**3/8 nut driver - used for #10 nuts<br />
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts<br />
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. <br />
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.<br />
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.<br />
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.<br />
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.<br />
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.<br />
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench<br />
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts<br />
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench<br />
*Pliers<br />
*High-brightness LED flashlight<br />
*Magnetic pickup tool<br />
*Magnetic parts dish<br />
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)<br />
<br />
== Electrical Tools ==<br />
<br />
*A few alligator clip leads for testing<br />
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.<br />
*Side cutters<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.<br />
*For Connector Work<br />
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...<br />
**Connector pin pusher .093"<br />
**Connector pin pusher .062"<br />
<br />
'''Molex Crimper Styles'''<br />
<br />
[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]<br />
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. <br />
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<br />
'''Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.<br />
<br />
Portable:<br />
<br />
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.<br />
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)<br><br />
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)<br><br />
<br />
There is also a type of cordless battery powered iron referred to as "cold heat" - these do not work well for any pinball application, due to the lack of control over the quality of the solder joint produced. Avoid these for pinball work.<br />
<br />
Corded:<br />
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)<br><br />
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)<br><br />
*Weller W60P (temperature controlled)<br><br />
Station:<br />
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)<br />
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)<br />
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)<br />
<br />
'''Advanced Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
The move to lead-free manufacturing forced manufacturers to solder at a more tightly controlled, lower temperature. This requirement led to new irons that can deliver lots of heat, quickly. They have heat-up times of less than 10 seconds, and can solder larger joints than conventional irons. They have tips with built-in elements and temperature sensors. The tips show up on eBay, new and used. They are relatively expensive ($10 - $30) but last longer than regular tips. Expect to spend $200 - $400 to kit up with one of these (eBay). They are valuable if you do board work, as the fast heat delivery means the solder melts without overheating the pad. <br />
<br />
Metcal has been making these new irons for some time, so the systems are relatively common on eBay. Metcal systems use high-frequency RF to heat the tip. JBC is a Spanish manufacturer that makes some of the best heat delivery tips out there. <br />
<br />
<br />
Metcal MX-500P<br />
<br />
JBC - these irons really do heat up in 2 seconds (20W handpiece)<br />
<br />
Hakko FM series<br />
<br />
Weller WXT series<br />
<br />
Ersa, Goot, Pace<br />
<br />
==Desoldering Tools==<br />
<br />
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.<br />
<br />
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.<br />
<br />
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.<br />
<br />
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.<br />
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.<br />
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.<br />
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use<br />
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.<br />
<br />
==Rework Solder Stations==<br />
<br />
*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) <br><br />
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder extractor)<br />
*Aoyue 2703A+ SMD repair & rework. Has soldering iron w/vacuum suction, desoldering gun, and hot air gun.<br />
<br />
==EM Tools==<br />
[[file:SwitchTools.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Leaf switch tools|1) Ignition points file for Tungsten contacts <br>2) Flexstone <br>3) Vendor supplied leaf switch adjustment tool <br>4) Homemade switch adjustment tool <br>5) Push-pull spring tool]]<br><br><br />
*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.<br />
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.<br />
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Cleaning & Restoration Supplies==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Product<br />
!Uses<br />
!Where to get<br />
<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 1<br />
|Light cleaning of plastics and playfield. Dust/dirt removal<br />
|grocery store?<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 2<br />
|General cleaning and polishing of plastics and playfield.<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 3<br />
|Cleaning for metal parts only<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Millwax<br />
|Not recommended for most playfields, except when?<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|90% isopropyl alcohol<br />
|Cleaning PCB boards. Evaporates quickly.<br />
|drug store (CVS, etc)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Deoxit contact cleaner<br />
|electrical contact deoxidizer<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Carnauba wax<br />
|playfield waxing<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Simple green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning, degreaser<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Mean green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Bleche white<br />
|wire assembly<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Krylon Triple Thick<br />
|backglass sealant<br />
|pinrestore.com, bigdaddyenterprises.com<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Lubrication==<br />
In nearly every instance, lubrication should not be used. The exceptions are metal on metal mechanical points (stepper unit pivot points, stepper unit wipers, and the pivot points of '''very few''' mechanical assys.). Although Williams stated to use graphite powder for lubrication on coil plungers where aluminum or brass coil sleeves were used, it is best to just replace the metal coil sleeves with new nylon sleeves ('''Note:''' some brass coil sleeves are integral to the coil's winding, and are not removeable). A general rule of thumb is where metal makes contact with plastic, lubrication is not needed. However, if lubrication is necessary, Super Lube Teflon gel is a very good product to use. However, it should be used very sparingly. When in doubt, under lubrication is better than over lubrication.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:WD-40 01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WD-40 needs no introduction]]<br><br><br><br />
[[File:WD-40 Coin Door.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Removal of Coin Door Sticker Residue with WD-40]]<br><br><br><br />
'''In no instance should WD-40 be used as a lubricant!''' WD-40 is a great product, but should used as intended. It can be used for breaking apart seized screws, bolts, or associated mechanisms, but should thoroughly be cleaned off once a unit has been disassembled.<br><br />
<br />
There is one other good use for WD-40 regarding pinball machines. Coin door stickers, operator stickers on aprons, and game permit stickers all tend to make their way onto pinball machines. WD-40 is a very good product which can be used to remove sticker residue.<br />
It also makes an excellent hand cleaner.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==<br />
<font color=red>In work</font><br />
<br />
=Preparing Printed Circuit Cards (PCBs) for Shipping or Storage=<br />
<br />
[[Image:PCBWrappedInFoilResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Williams DMD Controller prepared for shipment, wrapped in aluminum foil. This method is a reasonable alternative when an ESD safe bag isn't available.]]<br><br />
Pinball boards (PCBs) are sensitive to Electro-Static Discharge (ESD). Static electricity that builds up in your body or via packaging material that rubs together can "shock" the sensitive components on a PCB, damaging them in doing so.<br />
<br />
Board repair techs go through great pains to ground themselves while working on PCBs.<br />
<br />
If you need to store or to ship a PCB, enclose it in an ESD safe bag. If a bag isn't available, wrap the board in aluminum foil. Both will protect the board from ESD.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=How to Twist Wires Together Neatly=<br />
Easy as Pie...<br />
#Chuck both wires in a slow speed drill<br />
#Hold other end firmly<br />
#Engage, and watch with amazement as the wires neatly twist around each-other.<br />
As you can see from the results below, this old technique yields excellent results.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="How to neatly twist two (or more) wires together"><br />
File:WireWindingStart.jpg|<center>Chuck the wires</center><br />
File:WireWindingEnd.jpg|<center>End result</center><br />
File:WireWindingDetail.jpg|<center>End result detail. Nice...</center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Soldering=<br />
<br />
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering. <br />
<br />
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!<br />
<br />
==Equipment and Supplies==<br />
<br />
===The basic soldering iron===<br />
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. One example is the Weller WESD-51.<br />
<br />
===Tip Cleaner===<br />
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.<br />
<br />
===Solder===<br />
There are three things that matter with solder. <br />
<br />
The diameter. In pinball, .031" is a good general purpose size. Thicker, and you'll be blobbing everywhere except on the biggest joints. Thinner, and it takes a lot of solder to feed a joint.<br />
<br />
The alloy, typically tin-lead, expressed as something like 63/37, which means 63% tin and 37% lead. For pinball, 63/37 is the best overall alloy. The common 60/40 is a shade cheaper, but isn't as good. In particular, it goes through a pasty mode before it hardens. If it is moved while pasty, you can get a bad joint. You can use 60/40, but 63/37 is more reliable. You won't like lead-free solder, as it has to be hotter and does not flow as well. Plus, even good joints look frosty. <br />
<br />
The flux, which might be rosin, no-clean or water soluble. You don't want water soluble, as it can leave an acid residue if not washed. No clean is nice, as it doesn't leave blobs of flux hanging on a joint. Rosin, the classic flux, is aggressive and effective, but leaves joints dirty and should be cleaned with alcohol when used on boards. <br />
<br />
A fourth parameter is the number of solder cores, typically 50 - 66. Doesn't matter for pinball, but a higher core count should be a little easier to use. <br />
<br />
So you will want one of these two types:<br />
- Rosin-core .031 63/37 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-0026). This is super easy to use and will get you the best joints (AKA Kester 44)<br />
- No-clean .031 6337 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-8801). Easy to use, no cleaning needed (AKA Kester 245). <br />
<br />
<br />
If you want to get solder locally, Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. <br />
<br />
As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. However, the US still has few restrictions on the use and sale of leaded solder. <br />
<br />
Here is one supplier of Kester 245 "no-clean" solder (24-6337-5400 with an obsolete 50 core count): [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life] <br />
<br />
A useful supplier is MCM Electronics. They carry a good range of 63/37 solders by good brands such as Kester and Multicore, and also sell smaller spools. MCM also has good pinball cabinet speakers, and often has free shipping for orders over $50.<br />
[http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?cataf=&view=list&w=solder+63%2F37&x=0&y=0 MCM Electronics 63/37 Solders]<br />
<br />
Mouser also carries a good range of 63/37 solders<br />
[http://www.mouser.com/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?P=1yzt5jhZ1yzxbyq Mouser 63/37 solders]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Under no circumstances should Acid-core (plumbing) solder be used anywhere on a pinball machine.'''<br />
<br />
===Optional Equipment===<br />
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.<br />
<br />
==Soldering wires==<br />
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything. <br />
<br />
Here are the simple steps:<br />
<br />
#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.<br />
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.<br />
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.<br />
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool. <br />
<br />
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts through the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or "hemo-stats" are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, you may have created what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.<br />
<br />
'''Things to Know'''<br />
<br />
*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and the solder joint will be unreliable.<br />
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. Once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.<br />
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that threading the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.<br />
<br />
== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==<br />
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.<br><br />
<br />
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are delicate and can become damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied for too long, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult. It is better to use more heat for less time than less heat for more time.<br><br />
<br />
When the replacement of a chip is necessary, it is recommended to use a chip socket (in most all instances - there are some exceptions), versus soldering a replacement chip directly onto the circuit board. The reasoning is two-fold:<br />
<br />
# Adding a chip socket reduces the amount of heat applied to a circuit board in the future should the same chip fail.<br />
# If the same chip does fail, replacement of the chip will be much easier.<br />
<br />
When soldering a chip socket in place, skipping from side to side for subsequent joints or skipping every other pin as you solder can help alleviate the risk of heating up a small part of the board, causing lifted pads and traces. A good solderer with the proper equipment can solder a 40 pin chip socket into place on a PCB in about 2 minutes.<br><br />
<br />
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Socket check work.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Testing for (lack of) continuity between chip socket positions]]<br><br />
After a chip socket has been soldered onto a board, it is equally a good practice to check for continuity between the socket pin and the adjoining circuitry, and discontinuity between adjacent socket positions. If there isn't continuity between the chip socket and its associated circuits, check / inspect the work performed. Likewise, if there is continuity between neighboring chip socket positions, check for excess solder or foreign material creating a conductive bridge between the two.<br><br />
<br />
'''Note:''' in some cases, a PCB has traces or pads intentionally tied together between adjacent chip sockets. Consult the schematics of the particular board being worked on to verify if this is the case, when two sockets are determined to have continuity.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=== Bending Discrete Through-hole Components ===<br />
[[File:BendingThroughHoleComponents.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to bend through-hole components using a drop target.]]<br><br />
An easy way to bend resistors, capacitors, etc to length when replacing them is to use a popsicle stick or an old drop target, as pictured at left. Bend the leads around the target. This works well for many older game systems like Bally -17/-35, Williams, etc.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"===<br />
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.<br />
<br />
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.<br />
<br />
[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]]<br><br />
'''Procedure''':<br><br />
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".<br><br />
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough.<br><br />
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.<br><br />
#Solder the first side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place.<br><br />
#All done!<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===Using an old Socket to Align SIPs and Headers===<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionSIPs.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Using a socket to align SIP (Single Inline Package) machine pin socket strips.]]<br><br />
Using an old socket to position two SIPs perfectly is easy, as shown in the picture at left.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionHeaders.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to align header pins across two header strips.]]<br><br />
Likewise, an old socket can be used to position headers perfectly in line when more than one header strip is used/needed.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Desoldering=<br />
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each<br />
<br />
Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts<br />
<br />
=DIP (Dual In-line Package) Pin Numbering Convention=<br />
[[File:Dip14pins.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DIP 14 pin]]<br>The diagram at left shows standard pin numbering for integrated circuits. Pin #1 is always located at the chips "dot" or if not dot, immediately to the left of the chips "notch". The pin "legs" are then numbered sequentially around the chip counter-clockwise. This convention is observed for DIP packages of all sizes. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Testing an integrated circuit=<br />
<br />
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.<br />
<br />
This test works for many 74XX series ICs.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]<br />
'''Procedure''':<br />
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test. <br />
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".<br />
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if testing multiple chips on the same board.<br />
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
'''Interpreting the results:'''<br />
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.<br><br />
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.<br><br />
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.<br><br />
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.<br />
*Comparing your results against results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
Readings outside of this range may indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Testing fuses=<br />
<br />
[[File:BuzzingAFuseTheWrongWay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An example of why you MUST remove a fuse to "buzz" it. This '''empty''' fuse holder is for the GI circuit in a Williams game. The meter is showing continuity with no fuse present. The meter is finding a path back through the transformer secondary.]]<br><br />
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.<br />
<br />
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".<br />
<br />
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading, as shown in the picture at left. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.<br />
<br />
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job of being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.<br />
<br />
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Testing a Bridge Rectifier=<br />
<br />
''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.''<br />
<br />
[[File:TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Four Connections to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.]]<br><br />
The picture at left illustrates the 4 readings to be taken when testing a bridge rectifier.<br />
<br />
'''Procedure:'''<br />
<br />
#Place your DMM into "diode test". <br />
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge. <br />
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes). <br />
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge <br />
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit. This part of the bridge is good.]]<br> <br />
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc). <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red><need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on FETs></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on SCRs></font><br><br />
<br />
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used except for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. <br />
<br />
When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own. <br />
<br />
<br />
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)<br />
<br />
[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:<br />
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right<br />
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC<br />
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE<br />
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)<br />
<br />
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.<br />
<br />
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.<br><br />
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''.<br><br />
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).<br><br />
'''Note: A transistor can "test" good and still be bad!!'''<br><br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the red lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the black lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-A13''' transistor.<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-U45''' transistor (or '''NDS-U45''' or '''CEN-U45''' which are equivalents).<br />
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
=Testing a coil=<br />
<br />
If a drive transistor shorts, providing an unintended path to ground for power at a solenoid, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil winding gets hot enough, it will burn through the protective coating on the winding, shorting adjacently wound wires and reducing the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the failed driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged immediately after power on.<br />
<br />
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is wise to check each coil's resistance '''*before*''' switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it! Even examining each coil in the game for burned coil wrappers may help identify a shorted coil.<br />
<br />
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power winding and a hold winding. These are easily identified as they have three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.<br />
<br />
==Testing resistance==<br />
To test a coil's resistance:<br />
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs. <br />
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. Note: Some flipper coils will read less than 2 ohms but still be fine.<br />
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (i.e. the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or drive transistor issue. <br />
<br />
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before powering the game on again.<br />
<br />
==Testing for coil power==<br />
With the machine powered on:<br />
* set your DMM to DC<br />
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one). <br />
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-75v.<br />
<br />
Please note that some games have a coin door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids.<br />
<br />
==Testing the coil diode==<br />
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.<br />
<br />
To test a coil diode:<br />
<br />
* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.<br />
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.<br />
* Place the black lead on the banded side.<br />
* Place the red lead on the non-banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.<br />
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'<br />
<br />
==Testing the driver transistors==<br />
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=Basic Sound Troubleshooting=<br />
Regardless of the manufacturer, there are some simple steps to follow if no sound is present. Below are the steps from simplest to more complicated.<br />
<br />
# Make sure the speaker is properly connected. If female crimp spade connectors are used on the wiring connecting to the speaker terminals, it is not uncommon for the connectors to come loose or even break. If the leads to the speakers are soldered onto the speaker terminals, make certain the wires are soldered well by gently tugging on the wires.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the speaker is good. If no sound is coming out of the speaker, not even a hum when the volume pot is turned up, check to see if the speaker is not blown. For what it is worth, even a speaker with a ripped cone can put out some sound in most cases. The sound may be distorted, but it should be present. There are two ways to test a speaker. The safest way is to hook an ohmmeter up to the two speaker leads, and see if the resistance equals the impedance of the speaker. Most, if not all speakers in pinball machines are either 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The other method for testing a speaker is to hook a 9v battery up to the speaker leads. Prior to hooking up a battery, it is important to disconnect the speaker outputs on the sound board. This will isolate the speaker from the sound board completely. Once the battery is hooked up, the speaker cone should either pull in or flex out, depending on how the battery's polarity was connected to the speaker. '''Do not allow the battery to be connected to the speaker for very long'''.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume potentiometer (pot) is properly connected, if one is used (newer machines like WMS WPC, Stern / Sega White Star, and stern SAM systems use digital potentiometers). If turning the volume pot up does not result in any sound, turn the pot the opposite direction. If no mechanical pot is used, skip the next step.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume pot is good. Using an ohmmeter. connect the leads to the volume pot, and turn the pot back in forth. When the pot is turned completely one way, it should read close to zero ohms (full volume). When turned the opposite direction, the reading should be close to the value of what the pot's rating (pots in pinball machines roughly range from 5 kohms to 25 kohms depending on the manufacturer). Pots sometime develop "dead spots". When the pot is turned from its lowest setting (highest resistance value) to its highest setting (0 ohm resistance), the resistance value should slowly decrease. While turning the pot, if the value spikes to 0 and resumes to a higher value than 0, the pot has a dead spot. TV tuner cleaner can be used to sometimes rectify this problem. Even exercising the pot back and forth can resolve dead spots in a pinch.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the output connections on the sound board are good. If the sound board in question has header pins on the output to the speaker / volume pot, check for cracked header joints. Short of a visual inspection with the board removed from the game, try wiggling the output connector. This does not definitely prove that there are cracked header joints, but it shows that either the headers or the harness connector is at fault. Additionally, check for bad connectors inside the speaker output housing connection. If the sound board in question uses edge finger connections, check the edge connector inside the housing of the output to the speaker. In either case, if the output harness uses an insulation displacement connector (IDC), check to make sure the wires are securely seated inside the connector of the housing.<br><br><br />
#In some but not all instances, sound boards use a 5-legged amplifier with a heat sink attached. Sound boards with this type of amp may have cracked solder joints at the legs of the amp. If gently wiggling the amps heat sink makes sound cut in and out, suspect cracked solder joints on the legs of the amp.<br><br />
<br />
Remaining issues are typically sound board specific. Please review the appropriate repair pages regarding the sound board in question.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=<br />
Need to cover...<br><br />
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)<br><br />
SOIC to DIP adapters<br><br />
<br />
==Resistor Networks==<br />
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations"><br />
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Bussed Resistor Network</b></center><br />
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Isolated Resistor Network</b></center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.<br />
<br />
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1.<br><br />
<font color=Red><need a picture of this></font><br />
<br />
=The Switch Matrix=<br />
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.<br />
<br />
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required. <br />
<br />
<u>'''How a switch matrix works'''</u><br />
<br />
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.<br />
<br />
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse). <br />
<br />
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.<br><br />
<br />
<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Switch Matrix IN WORK=<br />
<youtube v="Bo3wVuyJtXA" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<youtube v="rNx2D6KeAxQ" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:NormalSwitchMatrixOperation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Normal Switch Matrix Operation]]<br />
[[Image:ShortedDiodeFailureInSwitchMatrix.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Implications of a Shorted Diode in the Switch Matrix]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=General Illumination=<br />
<br />
General Illumination is lighting that switches on (generally) when game power is turned on. Some general illumination circuits are switched on by an electromechanical relay (EM games, Williams System 11, and all eras of solid state Gottlieb games for instance). Some GI circuits are controlled by the MPU (WPC games). General illumination lamps are essentially the same as Christmas tree lights. They come on when power is applied.<br />
<br />
[[File:SST-GIModification.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Underside of Starship Troopers playfield showing mod to top lane guide GI lamp installation.]]<br><br><br />
Some GI sockets are very difficult to get to, like in Sega's Starship Troopers. One way to ease the job is to get at the lamps from under the playfield where possible. This requires a small modification to your game and some short wood screws. In the picture at left, the OEM staples have been removed and replaced with a standard pinball target screw. One screw is really enough since the lamp isn't going anywhere. To replace a lamp, simply remove the screw, pull the socket, replace the lamp, and reinstall. Make certain the length of the screw will not protrude through the top of the playfield. Those who prefer the look of LEDs should consider using LEDs in these tough to reach places.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=The Lamp Matrix=<br />
<br />
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.<br />
<br />
All EM's control lamps with switches on relay stacks, or wipers on disc units.<br />
<br />
'''How the lamp matrix works'''<br />
<br />
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.<br />
<br />
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.<br />
<br />
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''<br />
<br />
#Fewer wires<br />
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp matrix problems'''<br />
<br />
#Single lamp out<br />
#Single lamp locked on<br />
#multiple lamps in a row<br />
#multiple lamps in a column<br />
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not<br />
<br />
'''Typical causes'''<br />
<br />
#Wiring shorts<br />
#Shorted diode(s)<br />
<br />
=How coils, flashers, and motors are turned on=<br />
<br />
In most machines, every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at all coil lugs. Exceptions are...<br><br />
*Williams System 11 and Data East/Sega games which have an A/C (side) select relay that switches power between two banks...a bank of coils and a bank of flashers.<br />
*Flipper coils on Data East games that use the Solid State Flipper Board. The SSFB provides power to the coils only after the cabinet flipper button switch is closed.<br />
<br />
[[File:CoilPowerDiagram.jpg|400px|left|thumb|A simple representation of how power is always present at all coil lugs, waiting to "find ground" via a switch. Solid state pinball machines use transistors to "switch" power to ground (a TIP-102 transistor for instance)]]<br><br />
If you set your DMM to DC voltage, place the black lead of your DMM on game ground such as the ground braid or the side rail, and place the red lead of your DMM on either coil lug, you should read nominal coil voltage (exactly what voltage level depends on the game system). Your DMM reads the voltage at both/all coil lugs because, when the coil is off, there is no current through the coil to cause a voltage drop. Power present at one coil lug is guaranteed to be present at the other coil lug unless the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is disconnected from the lug.<br />
<br />
Referencing the diagram at left, placing the red probe of your DMM at any point labeled "P", and the black lead of your DMM on game ground (labeled "G"), should read nominal coil voltage.<br />
<br />
All that is required for the coil to "fire" is for the ground lug of the coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor, or by closing a switch that creates a path to ground. <br />
<br />
Note that this also a good example of how to test a coil, and the power circuit. Grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly. If the coil does not fire, then either the coil is not receiving power, or the coil winding has a break in it, or the coil winding is not attached securely to the coil's solder tab(s).<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Flippers=<br />
<br />
;How does a flipper work?<br />
:Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the coil to overheat or the fuse to blow. Note that it takes less power to hold the flipper up than it does to pull the plunger in for the initial flip due to the effect the metal plunger has on what is initially an air-core coil.<br />
<br />
;High Voltage flipper operation<br />
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.<br />
<br />
:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.<br />
<br />
:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.<br />
<br />
:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.<br />
<br />
;Solid State Flipper operation<br />
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.<br />
<br />
:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.<br />
<br />
:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.<br />
<br />
;Summary of EOS switch function for various types of games<br />
*EM: EOS switch shorts hold winding until flipper is actuated. This allows the power coil to provide full strength during the flipper movement but switch over to the lower power hold winding at the end of movement. In reality, both the power and hold coils are in series during hold operation.<br />
*Data East: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40 ms) switch-over from 50V to 8V for hold operation. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. See Maverick game manual page 90 for theory of operation. <br />
*Stern: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40ms) switchover to 1ms pulses every 12ms to hold the coil up. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. For a description of Stern flipper operation, see [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/BATMAN_SGM/BATMAN_SEC5_CHP2.pdf Stern Batman TDK Manual Section 5 Chapter 2 Page 106]<br />
*Williams: Fliptronic board provides CPU-controlled coil drivers for the flippers. When EOS switch closes power is switched to the hold winding. Williams WPC flipper problems are discussed in the [[Williams_WPC#Flipper_Problems]] section.<br />
<br />
==Weak Flippers - What to check==<br />
[[File:CoilSleeveWithInternalRingResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn coil sleeve, with an internal "ring" worn into it. This ring prevented the plunger from being fully pulled in.]]<br><br />
There are many problems that can lead to weak flippers. Some flipper problems are unique to EM games, but there are many problems common to both EM and SS games.<br />
Problems can be either electrical or mechanical. Below is a list of items to check. General things to note are whether both flippers are weak or just one, if the flipper won't flip will it stay up if the bat is manually moved to the up position, and does the flipper bat move easily when moved by hand. The following list details problems that can cause weak flippers.<br />
<br />
#End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch dirty. <br>The power winding of a flipper coil is only a few ohms of resistance so it doesn't take too much added resistance in the EOS switch to degrade the flipper power. If an EOS switch is not making contact at all the flipper will likely not flip, but will hold if you manually actuate the flipper.<br />
#Flipper switch dirty. <br>For EM games, flipper power is provided through the flipper switch. Added resistance of a fouled switch can weaken flippers.<br />
#Coil sleeve worn or dirty. <br>Cleaning the coil plunger and sleeve will improve flipper performance. Some older games had metal sleeves that should be replaced with modern nylon sleeves. Even when wear can not be seen, replacing the coil sleeve often helps.<br />
#Coil stop or plunger mushroomed. <br>Coils operate best when there is a flat surface between the plunger end and the coil stop. A mushroomed coil stop or plunger can cause the flipper to buzz when held up.<br />
#Flipper spring too tight. <br>This can also result in noisy flippers when held up. The flipper spring should be adjusted so that it can barely return the flippers to their resting postion when the playfield is up.<br />
#Flipper bushing binding. <br>A worn flipper bushing or a misadjusted flipper bat can result in binding that impedes flipper movement. Make sure there is a small amount of vertical play in the flipper to prevent binding.<br />
#Hogged out fiber link. <br>Over time the holes in the flipper links can become elongated. The play in the flipper movement results in wasted coil movement and thus reduced flipper strength.<br />
#Power issues. <br>Make sure you are getting full voltage at the flipper coil. Usually a power problem will cause both flippers to be weak.<br />
#Drive transistor bad (SS only) <br>In solid state games it is possible to have a transistor that is bad but still somewhat operational. Usually the bad transistor will get noticeably hotter than other similar transistors.<br />
#Power Winding bad. <br>Coil failures are rare, but check from broken solder connections and broken coil wires at the coil lugs.<br />
<br />
=Changing Batteries=<br />
Solid state machines have batteries to save high score and setting information when the machine is powered off. Usually these are three AA batteries mounted on the CPU board. They should be changed annually to prevent leakage that will damage the CPU board.<br />
<br />
Batteries can be changed with the machine powered on so that settings are maintained. Some people recommend changing one battery at a time, but this is only to help ensure that the new batteries are installed with the correct polarity.<br />
<br />
The best thing you can do for your game is to install a remote battery holder, which moves the batteries completely off of the CPU board. See the specific game system section for instructions to perform this simple modification.<br />
<br />
=Coil Chart=<br />
<br />
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at<br />
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html<br />
<br />
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Chart=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Voltage (V)<br />
!Current(A)<br />
!Candle Power<br />
!Life (hours)<br />
!Base<br />
!Typical Use<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|44<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|47<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|55<br />
|7.0<br />
|.41<br />
|2.00<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47<br> '''Not a good replacement in pop bumpers or behind backglasses (too much heat generated)'''<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|63<br />
|7.0<br />
|.63<br />
|3.0<br />
|1,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Used in early Williams solid state games like Flash.<br> Found in Williams games as late as High Speed; typically installed in series<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|67<br />
|13.5<br />
|.59<br />
|4.0<br />
|5,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Exclusively used as flash lamps on Gottlieb (Premier) games<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|73<br />
|14.0<br />
|.80<br />
|.30<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|86<br />
|6.3<br />
|.20<br />
|.40<br />
|20,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism;Gottlieb Victory ramp chaser lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|89<br />
|13.0<br />
|.58<br />
|6.00<br />
|750<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|159<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.34<br />
|5000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the #555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|194<br />
|14.0<br />
|.27<br />
|2.00<br />
|1,500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Whitewater Topper Lamps<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (instrument panel / dash lamps)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|199<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.25<br />
|32.00<br />
|1500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Alternate for 1156 lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|313<br />
|28<br />
|0.17<br />
|3.5<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|447<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|455<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.5<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Blinker<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|545<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.31<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|555<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|906<br />
|13.0<br />
|.69<br />
|6.00<br />
|1000<br />
|T-5 Wedge<br />
|Flash Lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1156<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.1<br />
|32.00<br />
|1,200<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed II beacon lamp and Creature from the Black Lagoon hologram projection lamp<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (reverse and front turn signal lamp in some vehicles)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1251<br />
|28.0<br />
|.23<br />
|3.00<br />
|2,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1683<br />
|28.0<br />
|1.02<br />
|32.00<br />
|500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed, F-14 Tomcat, and Rescue 911 beacon lamps; Fire! flame tube projection lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1847<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.38<br />
|5,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Dimmer, longer lasting version of 47 bulb; for areas where vibration is a factor (pop bumpers, etc.)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.<br />
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.<br />
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.<br />
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)<br />
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter<br />
<br />
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Sockets=<br />
<br />
Some later games have illuminated buttons for start and possibly other functions. These are typically located on the front of the cabinet. Instructions on replacing the lamp in those switches can be found [http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/installation_illuminated.htm here].<br />
<br />
=Fuse Table=<br />
<br />
<center><font size="4">'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</font></center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center><br />
<br />
{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 5A<br />
| BR, DC coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 10A<br />
| Main, BR, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|- align="left"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils-under PF<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Displays<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Service outlet<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Main line power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils, Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/16A<br />
| High Voltage on SDB<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Pop bumpers (Sys80/80A/80B), Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| Display power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main, coils, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 4A<br />
| 12v/5v power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB<br />
| PS, lamps, displays<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| 5A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 15A<br />
| General Illumination<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 20A<br />
| Switched Lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Display high voltage<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Power supply (displays)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB<br />
| Display driver board<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Aux board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Sound board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Power supply, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| 5v power (L7 games)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 20A<br />
| General illumination<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 1/10A<br />
| Cabinet, displays<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A <br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega &amp; New Stern'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| Display<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB<br />
| Display<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB<br />
| 12v PS F101<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Lamps, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB<br />
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Coils, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB<br />
| Switched lamps, line<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Line, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB<br />
| Coils main F108<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Power line, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T2.5A SB<br />
| Audio F501, F502<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Resistors=<br />
Resistors typically have a standard color coding scheme, (the exceptions are some power resistors which have the value and wattage inked on the resistor), which is used to identify the resistor's value and tolerance. The resistor's value and tolerance can be identified on this [http://samengstrom.com/24614782/en/read/4_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes?history=5107960,24614782 website] by clicking the appropriate color bands.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Game Software (ROMs)=<br />
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features. These home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case, it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]<br />
<br />
Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. DO NOT depend on the labels on the replacement roms "matching" a direction on your machine! ALWAYS check the orientation based on the notches. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement. <br />
<br />
Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.<br />
<br />
Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.<br />
<br />
=Counterfeit Integrated Circuits=<br />
<br />
[[File:MOS 6532.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bogus 6532 Chips]]<br />
As time passes, the need for through hole integrated circuits (IC chips) in current manufacturing decreases. Most consumable electronics today are using surface mount ICs. However, through hole ICs are what nearly 90% of all solid state pinball machines use on circuit boards. And as the need decreases, the price increases. Enter the counterfeiters. It may sound absurd, but there is a whole "underground" industry of counterfeit IC chips being created. How are they typically counterfeited? Old ICs are sourced, the top of the chip is either sanded or painted over with the correct identifiers as to what chip it is, and a new identifier is inked over. Some counterfeit chips are fairly obvious (see the pic to the left to view two sanded IC tops), while others are not so obvious.<br><br />
<br />
The moral to this is know who you are buying from. Avoid buying components from sellers who offer product at "too good to be true" prices. Some of these types of sellers peddle their product on eBay, and originate from the Far East. Keep in mind that even trusted sellers are not totally immune from counterfeit chips, but the really good sellers have a better grasp on reducing the sales of counterfeit chips from their inventory.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Tumbling Parts to Clean Them=<br />
[[File:TarnishedMetalPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A batch of playfield posts, etc from a Gottlieb Buckaroo.]]<br><br />
A quick way to shine a lot of metal parts is to use a "parts tumbler". (Technically, what is referred to in this section is a Vibrating Polisher - the name comes from a rock tumbler polisher, which can also be used but takes much longer.) Tumblers can typically be purchased at Bass Pro Shops as shooting enthusiasts use them to polish brass cartridges. One of the "old standards" is the [http://www.berrysmfg.com/product-i14546-c47-g8-b0-p0-400_Tumbler.aspx model 400 made by Berry's Manufacturing]. Crushed walnut shell media works well. It can be acquired at pet stores where it is sold as lizard bedding. For gentle less aggressive tumbling, use corn cob media. Additives such as "Flitz" or even a squirt of Novus 3 have been used to improve results. KIT Scratch Out also works very well for this application.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:TumbledBuckARooPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Ah yes...nice and shiny. These parts were tumbled for about 24 hours in crushed walnut shell media.]]<br><br />
Tumbling approaches the point of diminishing returns after about 24 hours. Tumbling past 24 hours doesn't yield much improvement.<br />
<br />
To remove the walnut shell media from flat-blade screws, a dental pick works well.<br><br />
To remove the media from Gottlieb "Speed Nuts" or Acorn Nuts, shake them inside a plastic container. The media falls right out.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=How to Properly File Switch Contacts=<br />
This is a stub<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
:Check the tightness of all under playfield mechanisms. It's not uncommon for mechanisms (even with lock nuts) to loosen up over time. Do not overtighten and strip out any holes, just snug them in. If you find any loose holes, repair with glue and toothpicks. Once everything is tight again, mechanism action will be crisper.<br />
<br />
==Leveling the Game==<br />
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting the Game Pitch==<br />
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.<br />
<br />
==Balls==<br />
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.<br />
<br />
:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting flippers==<br />
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.<br />
<br />
:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.<br />
<br />
:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.<br />
<br />
:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.<br />
<br />
:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting drop targets==<br />
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well). Take caution in cleaning the drop target face. If a face is stamped with artwork, most chemicals (even mild ones) will remove the artwork.<br />
<br />
:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.<br />
<br />
===Williams===<br />
:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.<br />
<br />
:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.<br />
<br />
:Later Williams' drop banks went to a two-spring design, one to pull the target down, and one coil spring to push the target forward on reset. This design started sometime around the Big Guns era. There's not a lot of adjustment needed in this type of target other than to clean them very well, and to ensure that the rubber grommets and the washer/screw combination are not too tight. They should be tightened just enough so the target will reset properly, but not so much that the target drops slowly. The weak points of this design are the ledge the drop targets rest on, and the studs used to hold the drop target reset coil stop. Originally, a small strip of tempered, spring steel was used for the ledge. This piece of spring steel was riveted to the drop target assy. frame. If it cracks or breaks, a single target or targets in the bank will not properly reset, as there is no ledge for them to rest in the up position. Williams realized this issue, and later versions of this type of drop target assy., somewhere around Earthshaker, were made with a replaceable ledge. Likewise, the coil stops were mounted with studs integrated into the drop target frame assy. These studs can snap off flush with the frame, allowing only one side or neither to hold the coil stop in place. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Gottlieb===<br />
:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their original design. There are 2 discrete springs used; one to pull the drops in the proper direction to reset correctly, and another to provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.<br />
<br />
:The 2-spring Gottlieb design changed during the system 80B era. This design change moved the reset coil from the outside of the drop target assy. to the underside, center of the assy. on small and single banks. Multiple reset coils were still used on banks larger than 4 targets. The benefit of the new design was less moving parts and a slightly smaller mounting footprint. However, the newer design eliminated the two spring design, and the smooth even stroke for the reset. While the targets still drop down smartly, on reset occasionally they will reset too high, or some targets will fail to reset, if the reset coil is not adjusted properly. Well beyond the time of the initial design change, some System 3 games use a combination of the old and new style drop target assys. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Bally===<br />
:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.<br />
<br />
:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place. Be sure any added shims don't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.<br />
<br />
:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.<br />
<br />
:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chiclet" style for over 25 years.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Stern (Classic)===<br />
:Classic Stern drops, commonly referred to as "chiclets", were originally similar to the Bally "tombstone" style, and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the playfield, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.<br />
<br />
:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking a pop bumper==<br />
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.<br />
<br />
:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.<br />
<br />
:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.<br />
<br />
:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.<br />
<br />
==Tuning a spinner==<br />
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.<br />
<br />
:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 2000 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.<br />
<br />
:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.<br />
<br />
:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.<br />
<br />
:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==<br />
:Most would ask why you would <b>want</b> to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.<br />
<br />
:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.<br />
<br />
:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.<br />
<br />
:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).<br />
<br />
:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.<br />
<br />
:Shaking a pinball is a part of the game, and possibly a greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.<br />
<br />
:Another trick is to ensure the playfield is attached solidly in some way to the cabinet. Older games have a metal clamping bracket in the cabinet to lock down the playfield, allowing better nudging action. Some older games use screws to attach the playfield to the cabinet. Metal hanger brackets used on newer machines take some of the nudging force away by allowing the playfield's suspension to absorb some of the force. A piece of cardboard folded and wedged at the playfield apron will help remove this factor and allowing more subtle shaking of the machine. This in turn will allow a tighter tilt if desired since the playfield will react to smaller nudges versus stock.<br />
<br />
==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==<br />
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).<br />
<br />
:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.<br />
<br />
:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.<br />
<br />
:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking lane guides==<br />
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.<br />
<br />
:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.<br />
<br />
:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size smaller than needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.<br />
<br />
:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.<br />
<br />
:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.<br />
<br />
:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or has its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.<br />
<br />
==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==<br />
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.<br />
<br />
:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.<br />
<br />
==Plungers==<br />
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.<br />
<br />
:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.<br />
<br />
:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a weak spring to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.<br />
<br />
==Coil Sleeves==<br />
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.<br />
<br />
:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid. If a coil plunger is particularly mushroomed, replace it.<br />
<br />
==Connectors and Soldering==<br />
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems. A steel or brass wire bottle brush of the appropriate size works well to clean Jones plugs, and you can get a very fine nylon bottle brush to clean the female connectors. Don't use a metal brush to clean the female side unless you're sure to find and clean up any broken brush strands.<br />
<br />
:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Make sure any wire management straps are being used to support the weight of the harness going into the cabinet instead of depending on the header pin to support all that weight. Resoldering the header pins will fix the cracking and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.<br />
<br />
:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.<br />
<br />
==Slingshots==<br />
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back. Replace the sling switches with new switches or replace just the blade if they have been bent and mangled from incorrect adjustments. It's easier but more expensive to replace the entire switch vs. getting the blade parts (blade parts alone are <$1.00, new switches anywhere from $2.75-$6.00 depending on bracket installed/not and vendor).<br />
<br />
:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.<br />
<br />
:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is threefold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling). Thirdly, they prevent a ball from working its way under the rubber and getting trapped in the triangle under the sling plastic.<br />
<br />
:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. Grasp the actuator arm and rock it slightly at a right angle to its normal activation arc to check for wear. You will usually see some lateral slop in a sling mechanism; if it's excessive power will be lost on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or use a small nylon washer to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).<br />
<br />
==Standup/stationary Targets==<br />
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent so the target leans backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.<br />
<br />
:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is breached or gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes. Inspect the switch blades that make up the target and straighten any out that are mangled.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Talk:General&diff=11212Talk:General2014-02-09T07:38:11Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>williams - 6/24/2011 - I removed a link to a specific product (microswitch) since it could become bad if the vendor changed their website. Feel free to change back if you feel it's helpful.<br />
<br />
Updated the solder section to include more detail as to what to buy, and good sources. Provided links for where to get current 63/37 products.<br />
<br />
I left the Pinball Life link in, but noted that the product has an obsolete core count (50). It isn't the miracle product that the vendor claims</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General&diff=11211General2014-02-09T07:35:24Z<p>Mr: /* Solder */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.<br />
<br />
=Safety=<br />
==Grounded 3-Prong Plug==<br />
[[File:3Prong Clipped.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Typical "clipped" 3rd prong on plug]]<br><br />
If the earth ground prong of a 3-prong plug is clipped or missing, replace the plug. Many of these plugs were clipped, because some older locations where games were placed only had two-prong outlets. The 3rd prong connects the games electrical circuits to "earth ground". In place, it reduces the risk of shock and protects the user. If you have neighboring machines and you feel a "tingle" when you touch the metal rails on both, one or both machines have a missing ground prong.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter set on continuity to ensure that the ground pin is connected to all the metal touchable parts of the game - the rails, the coin door, the legs bolts, etc. Investigate any missing wires and correct. Older games that came without a ground plug should have one added. Attach the green ground wire to the metal frame of the game transformer. Connect ground wires to all touchable metal parts on the game.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Overfusing==<br />
[[File:BoltForAFuse.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The never blow, 1.21 GigaWatt fuse. Obviously, this is NOT recommended.]]<br><br />
Fuses are designed into your game's electrical circuitry to protect the circuits from damage should some component fail and begin to draw too much electrical current. They are designed to be the "weakest link" in the circuit. When too much current is drawn through the circuit, the fuse should be the first part of the circuit to fail.<br />
<br />
Although fuses sometimes fail due to old age or vibration, fuses usually fail for a reason. Locked on coils or flashers, direct shorts of power to ground, and many other reasons will cause a fuse to blow. If you replace a fuse, and it blows again, then you can be sure that something has gone awry.<br />
<br />
Always install fuses at the rating specified for your game. Installing a fuse rated higher than spec may cause some other part of the game circuitry to become the weakest link, and damage parts of the game that the fuse is designed to protect.<br />
<br />
Fuses are rated in terms of voltage and most importantly amps. Fuses are also designed as "fast blow" or "slow blow"/"time delayed blow". Typical sizes for pinball machines are 1.25 inches and 20mm.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Parts to have on hand=<br />
'''All Machines'''<br />
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.<br />
<br />
'''Electromechanical Machines'''<br />
*#455 "Blinker" type bulbs for backglass highlights. Helps with heat in the head as well as they are usually about 50% duty cycle.<br />
*Replacement switch blades and high voltage contacts<br />
<br />
'''Solid State Machines'''<br />
<br />
*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a generic replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.<br />
*Replacement leaf blades and gold flashed contacts<br />
*TIP-102 Transistors<br />
*IN4004 Diodes<br />
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most versatile)<br />
<br />
=Tools of the Trade=<br />
<br />
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.<br />
<br />
==Mechanical Tools==<br />
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches<br />
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy<br />
*Nut driver set, which should include<br />
**1/4" nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts<br />
**5/16 nut driver - used for #6 nuts<br />
**11/32 nut driver - #8 nuts<br />
**3/8 nut driver - used for #10 nuts<br />
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts<br />
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. <br />
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.<br />
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.<br />
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.<br />
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.<br />
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.<br />
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench<br />
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts<br />
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench<br />
*Pliers<br />
*High-brightness LED flashlight<br />
*Magnetic pickup tool<br />
*Magnetic parts dish<br />
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)<br />
<br />
== Electrical Tools ==<br />
<br />
*A few alligator clip leads for testing<br />
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.<br />
*Side cutters<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.<br />
*For Connector Work<br />
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...<br />
**Connector pin pusher .093"<br />
**Connector pin pusher .062"<br />
<br />
'''Molex Crimper Styles'''<br />
<br />
[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]<br />
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
'''Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.<br />
<br />
Portable:<br />
<br />
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.<br />
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)<br><br />
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)<br><br />
<br />
There is also a type of cordless battery powered iron referred to as "cold heat" - these do not work well for any pinball application, due to the lack of control over the quality of the solder joint produced. Avoid these for pinball work.<br />
<br />
Corded:<br />
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)<br><br />
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)<br><br />
*Weller W60P (temperature controlled)<br><br />
Station:<br />
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)<br />
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)<br />
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)<br />
<br />
'''Advanced Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
The move to lead-free manufacturing forced manufacturers to solder at a more tightly controlled, lower temperature. This requirement led to new irons that can deliver lots of heat, quickly. They have heat-up times of less than 10 seconds, and can solder larger joints than conventional irons. They have tips with built-in elements and temperature sensors. The tips show up on eBay, new and used. They are relatively expensive ($10 - $30) but last longer than regular tips. Expect to spend $200 - $400 to kit up with one of these (eBay). They are valuable if you do board work, as the fast heat delivery means the solder melts without overheating the pad. <br />
<br />
Metcal has been making these new irons for some time, so the systems are relatively common on eBay. <br />
<br />
<br />
Metcal MX-500P<br />
JBC - these irons really do heat up in 2 seconds (20W handpiece)<br />
Hakko FM series<br />
Weller WXT series<br />
<br />
Ersa, Goot, Pace<br />
<br />
==Desoldering Tools==<br />
<br />
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.<br />
<br />
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.<br />
<br />
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.<br />
<br />
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.<br />
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.<br />
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.<br />
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use<br />
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.<br />
<br />
==Rework Solder Stations==<br />
<br />
*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) <br><br />
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder extractor)<br />
*Aoyue 2703A+ SMD repair & rework. Has soldering iron w/vacuum suction, desoldering gun, and hot air gun.<br />
<br />
==EM Tools==<br />
[[file:SwitchTools.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Leaf switch tools|1) Ignition points file for Tungsten contacts <br>2) Flexstone <br>3) Vendor supplied leaf switch adjustment tool <br>4) Homemade switch adjustment tool <br>5) Push-pull spring tool]]<br><br><br />
*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.<br />
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.<br />
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Cleaning & Restoration Supplies==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Product<br />
!Uses<br />
!Where to get<br />
<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 1<br />
|Light cleaning of plastics and playfield. Dust/dirt removal<br />
|grocery store?<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 2<br />
|General cleaning and polishing of plastics and playfield.<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 3<br />
|Cleaning for metal parts only<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Millwax<br />
|Not recommended for most playfields, except when?<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|90% isopropyl alcohol<br />
|Cleaning PCB boards. Evaporates quickly.<br />
|drug store (CVS, etc)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Deoxit contact cleaner<br />
|electrical contact deoxidizer<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Carnauba wax<br />
|playfield waxing<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Simple green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning, degreaser<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Mean green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Bleche white<br />
|wire assembly<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Krylon Triple Thick<br />
|backglass sealant<br />
|pinrestore.com, bigdaddyenterprises.com<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Lubrication==<br />
In nearly every instance, lubrication should not be used. The exceptions are metal on metal mechanical points (stepper unit pivot points, stepper unit wipers, and the pivot points of '''very few''' mechanical assys.). Although Williams stated to use graphite powder for lubrication on coil plungers where aluminum or brass coil sleeves were used, it is best to just replace the metal coil sleeves with new nylon sleeves ('''Note:''' some brass coil sleeves are integral to the coil's winding, and are not removeable). A general rule of thumb is where metal makes contact with plastic, lubrication is not needed. However, if lubrication is necessary, Super Lube Teflon gel is a very good product to use. However, it should be used very sparingly. When in doubt, under lubrication is better than over lubrication.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:WD-40 01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WD-40 needs no introduction]]<br><br><br><br />
[[File:WD-40 Coin Door.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Removal of Coin Door Sticker Residue with WD-40]]<br><br><br><br />
'''In no instance should WD-40 be used as a lubricant!''' WD-40 is a great product, but should used as intended. It can be used for breaking apart seized screws, bolts, or associated mechanisms, but should thoroughly be cleaned off once a unit has been disassembled.<br><br />
<br />
There is one other good use for WD-40 regarding pinball machines. Coin door stickers, operator stickers on aprons, and game permit stickers all tend to make their way onto pinball machines. WD-40 is a very good product which can be used to remove sticker residue.<br />
It also makes an excellent hand cleaner.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==<br />
<font color=red>In work</font><br />
<br />
=Preparing Printed Circuit Cards (PCBs) for Shipping or Storage=<br />
<br />
[[Image:PCBWrappedInFoilResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Williams DMD Controller prepared for shipment, wrapped in aluminum foil. This method is a reasonable alternative when an ESD safe bag isn't available.]]<br><br />
Pinball boards (PCBs) are sensitive to Electro-Static Discharge (ESD). Static electricity that builds up in your body or via packaging material that rubs together can "shock" the sensitive components on a PCB, damaging them in doing so.<br />
<br />
Board repair techs go through great pains to ground themselves while working on PCBs.<br />
<br />
If you need to store or to ship a PCB, enclose it in an ESD safe bag. If a bag isn't available, wrap the board in aluminum foil. Both will protect the board from ESD.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=How to Twist Wires Together Neatly=<br />
Easy as Pie...<br />
#Chuck both wires in a slow speed drill<br />
#Hold other end firmly<br />
#Engage, and watch with amazement as the wires neatly twist around each-other.<br />
As you can see from the results below, this old technique yields excellent results.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="How to neatly twist two (or more) wires together"><br />
File:WireWindingStart.jpg|<center>Chuck the wires</center><br />
File:WireWindingEnd.jpg|<center>End result</center><br />
File:WireWindingDetail.jpg|<center>End result detail. Nice...</center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Soldering=<br />
<br />
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering. <br />
<br />
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!<br />
<br />
==Equipment and Supplies==<br />
<br />
===The basic soldering iron===<br />
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. One example is the Weller WESD-51.<br />
<br />
===Tip Cleaner===<br />
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.<br />
<br />
===Solder===<br />
There are three things that matter with solder. <br />
<br />
The diameter. In pinball, .031" is a good general purpose size. Thicker, and you'll be blobbing everywhere except on the biggest joints. Thinner, and it takes a lot of solder to feed a joint.<br />
<br />
The alloy, typically tin-lead, expressed as something like 63/37, which means 63% tin and 37% lead. For pinball, 63/37 is the best overall alloy. The common 60/40 is a shade cheaper, but isn't as good. In particular, it goes through a pasty mode before it hardens. If it is moved while pasty, you can get a bad joint. You can use 60/40, but 63/37 is more reliable. You won't like lead-free solder, as it has to be hotter and does not flow as well. Plus, even good joints look frosty. <br />
<br />
The flux, which might be rosin, no-clean or water soluble. You don't want water soluble, as it can leave an acid residue if not washed. No clean is nice, as it doesn't leave blobs of flux hanging on a joint. Rosin, the classic flux, is aggressive and effective, but leaves joints dirty and should be cleaned with alcohol when used on boards. <br />
<br />
A fourth parameter is the number of solder cores, typically 50 - 66. Doesn't matter for pinball, but a higher core count should be a little easier to use. <br />
<br />
So you will want one of these two types:<br />
- Rosin-core .031 63/37 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-0026). This is super easy to use and will get you the best joints (AKA Kester 44)<br />
- No-clean .031 6337 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-8801). Easy to use, no cleaning needed (AKA Kester 245). <br />
<br />
<br />
If you want to get solder locally, Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. <br />
<br />
As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. However, the US still has few restrictions on the use and sale of leaded solder. <br />
<br />
Here is one supplier of Kester 245 "no-clean" solder (24-6337-5400 with an obsolete 50 core count): [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life] <br />
<br />
A useful supplier is MCM Electronics. They carry a good range of 63/37 solders by good brands such as Kester and Multicore, and also sell smaller spools. MCM also has good pinball cabinet speakers, and often has free shipping for orders over $50.<br />
[http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?cataf=&view=list&w=solder+63%2F37&x=0&y=0 MCM Electronics 63/37 Solders]<br />
<br />
Mouser also carries a good range of 63/37 solders<br />
[http://www.mouser.com/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?P=1yzt5jhZ1yzxbyq Mouser 63/37 solders]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Under no circumstances should Acid-core (plumbing) solder be used anywhere on a pinball machine.'''<br />
<br />
===Optional Equipment===<br />
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.<br />
<br />
==Soldering wires==<br />
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything. <br />
<br />
Here are the simple steps:<br />
<br />
#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.<br />
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.<br />
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.<br />
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool. <br />
<br />
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts through the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or "hemo-stats" are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, you may have created what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.<br />
<br />
'''Things to Know'''<br />
<br />
*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and the solder joint will be unreliable.<br />
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. Once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.<br />
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that threading the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.<br />
<br />
== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==<br />
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.<br><br />
<br />
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are delicate and can become damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied for too long, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult. It is better to use more heat for less time than less heat for more time.<br><br />
<br />
When the replacement of a chip is necessary, it is recommended to use a chip socket (in most all instances - there are some exceptions), versus soldering a replacement chip directly onto the circuit board. The reasoning is two-fold:<br />
<br />
# Adding a chip socket reduces the amount of heat applied to a circuit board in the future should the same chip fail.<br />
# If the same chip does fail, replacement of the chip will be much easier.<br />
<br />
When soldering a chip socket in place, skipping from side to side for subsequent joints or skipping every other pin as you solder can help alleviate the risk of heating up a small part of the board, causing lifted pads and traces. A good solderer with the proper equipment can solder a 40 pin chip socket into place on a PCB in about 2 minutes.<br><br />
<br />
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Socket check work.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Testing for (lack of) continuity between chip socket positions]]<br><br />
After a chip socket has been soldered onto a board, it is equally a good practice to check for continuity between the socket pin and the adjoining circuitry, and discontinuity between adjacent socket positions. If there isn't continuity between the chip socket and its associated circuits, check / inspect the work performed. Likewise, if there is continuity between neighboring chip socket positions, check for excess solder or foreign material creating a conductive bridge between the two.<br><br />
<br />
'''Note:''' in some cases, a PCB has traces or pads intentionally tied together between adjacent chip sockets. Consult the schematics of the particular board being worked on to verify if this is the case, when two sockets are determined to have continuity.<br />
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<br />
=== Bending Discrete Through-hole Components ===<br />
[[File:BendingThroughHoleComponents.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to bend through-hole components using a drop target.]]<br><br />
An easy way to bend resistors, capacitors, etc to length when replacing them is to use a popsicle stick or an old drop target, as pictured at left. Bend the leads around the target. This works well for many older game systems like Bally -17/-35, Williams, etc.<br />
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<br />
===Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"===<br />
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.<br />
<br />
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.<br />
<br />
[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]]<br><br />
'''Procedure''':<br><br />
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".<br><br />
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough.<br><br />
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.<br><br />
#Solder the first side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place.<br><br />
#All done!<br />
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<br />
===Using an old Socket to Align SIPs and Headers===<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionSIPs.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Using a socket to align SIP (Single Inline Package) machine pin socket strips.]]<br><br />
Using an old socket to position two SIPs perfectly is easy, as shown in the picture at left.<br />
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<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionHeaders.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to align header pins across two header strips.]]<br><br />
Likewise, an old socket can be used to position headers perfectly in line when more than one header strip is used/needed.<br />
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<br />
=Desoldering=<br />
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each<br />
<br />
Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts<br />
<br />
=DIP (Dual In-line Package) Pin Numbering Convention=<br />
[[File:Dip14pins.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DIP 14 pin]]<br>The diagram at left shows standard pin numbering for integrated circuits. Pin #1 is always located at the chips "dot" or if not dot, immediately to the left of the chips "notch". The pin "legs" are then numbered sequentially around the chip counter-clockwise. This convention is observed for DIP packages of all sizes. <br />
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<br />
=Testing an integrated circuit=<br />
<br />
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.<br />
<br />
This test works for many 74XX series ICs.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]<br />
'''Procedure''':<br />
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test. <br />
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".<br />
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if testing multiple chips on the same board.<br />
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
'''Interpreting the results:'''<br />
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.<br><br />
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.<br><br />
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.<br><br />
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.<br />
*Comparing your results against results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
Readings outside of this range may indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.<br />
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<br />
=Testing fuses=<br />
<br />
[[File:BuzzingAFuseTheWrongWay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An example of why you MUST remove a fuse to "buzz" it. This '''empty''' fuse holder is for the GI circuit in a Williams game. The meter is showing continuity with no fuse present. The meter is finding a path back through the transformer secondary.]]<br><br />
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.<br />
<br />
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".<br />
<br />
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading, as shown in the picture at left. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.<br />
<br />
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job of being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.<br />
<br />
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.<br />
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<br />
=Testing a Bridge Rectifier=<br />
<br />
''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.''<br />
<br />
[[File:TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Four Connections to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.]]<br><br />
The picture at left illustrates the 4 readings to be taken when testing a bridge rectifier.<br />
<br />
'''Procedure:'''<br />
<br />
#Place your DMM into "diode test". <br />
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge. <br />
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes). <br />
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge <br />
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen. <br />
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<br />
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit. This part of the bridge is good.]]<br> <br />
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc). <br />
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<br />
=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red><need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on FETs></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on SCRs></font><br><br />
<br />
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used except for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. <br />
<br />
When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own. <br />
<br />
<br />
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)<br />
<br />
[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:<br />
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right<br />
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC<br />
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE<br />
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)<br />
<br />
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.<br />
<br />
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.<br><br />
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''.<br><br />
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).<br><br />
'''Note: A transistor can "test" good and still be bad!!'''<br><br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the red lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the black lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-A13''' transistor.<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-U45''' transistor (or '''NDS-U45''' or '''CEN-U45''' which are equivalents).<br />
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
=Testing a coil=<br />
<br />
If a drive transistor shorts, providing an unintended path to ground for power at a solenoid, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil winding gets hot enough, it will burn through the protective coating on the winding, shorting adjacently wound wires and reducing the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the failed driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged immediately after power on.<br />
<br />
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is wise to check each coil's resistance '''*before*''' switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it! Even examining each coil in the game for burned coil wrappers may help identify a shorted coil.<br />
<br />
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power winding and a hold winding. These are easily identified as they have three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.<br />
<br />
==Testing resistance==<br />
To test a coil's resistance:<br />
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs. <br />
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. Note: Some flipper coils will read less than 2 ohms but still be fine.<br />
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (i.e. the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or drive transistor issue. <br />
<br />
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before powering the game on again.<br />
<br />
==Testing for coil power==<br />
With the machine powered on:<br />
* set your DMM to DC<br />
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one). <br />
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-75v.<br />
<br />
Please note that some games have a coin door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids.<br />
<br />
==Testing the coil diode==<br />
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.<br />
<br />
To test a coil diode:<br />
<br />
* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.<br />
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.<br />
* Place the black lead on the banded side.<br />
* Place the red lead on the non-banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.<br />
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'<br />
<br />
==Testing the driver transistors==<br />
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=Basic Sound Troubleshooting=<br />
Regardless of the manufacturer, there are some simple steps to follow if no sound is present. Below are the steps from simplest to more complicated.<br />
<br />
# Make sure the speaker is properly connected. If female crimp spade connectors are used on the wiring connecting to the speaker terminals, it is not uncommon for the connectors to come loose or even break. If the leads to the speakers are soldered onto the speaker terminals, make certain the wires are soldered well by gently tugging on the wires.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the speaker is good. If no sound is coming out of the speaker, not even a hum when the volume pot is turned up, check to see if the speaker is not blown. For what it is worth, even a speaker with a ripped cone can put out some sound in most cases. The sound may be distorted, but it should be present. There are two ways to test a speaker. The safest way is to hook an ohmmeter up to the two speaker leads, and see if the resistance equals the impedance of the speaker. Most, if not all speakers in pinball machines are either 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The other method for testing a speaker is to hook a 9v battery up to the speaker leads. Prior to hooking up a battery, it is important to disconnect the speaker outputs on the sound board. This will isolate the speaker from the sound board completely. Once the battery is hooked up, the speaker cone should either pull in or flex out, depending on how the battery's polarity was connected to the speaker. '''Do not allow the battery to be connected to the speaker for very long'''.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume potentiometer (pot) is properly connected, if one is used (newer machines like WMS WPC, Stern / Sega White Star, and stern SAM systems use digital potentiometers). If turning the volume pot up does not result in any sound, turn the pot the opposite direction. If no mechanical pot is used, skip the next step.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume pot is good. Using an ohmmeter. connect the leads to the volume pot, and turn the pot back in forth. When the pot is turned completely one way, it should read close to zero ohms (full volume). When turned the opposite direction, the reading should be close to the value of what the pot's rating (pots in pinball machines roughly range from 5 kohms to 25 kohms depending on the manufacturer). Pots sometime develop "dead spots". When the pot is turned from its lowest setting (highest resistance value) to its highest setting (0 ohm resistance), the resistance value should slowly decrease. While turning the pot, if the value spikes to 0 and resumes to a higher value than 0, the pot has a dead spot. TV tuner cleaner can be used to sometimes rectify this problem. Even exercising the pot back and forth can resolve dead spots in a pinch.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the output connections on the sound board are good. If the sound board in question has header pins on the output to the speaker / volume pot, check for cracked header joints. Short of a visual inspection with the board removed from the game, try wiggling the output connector. This does not definitely prove that there are cracked header joints, but it shows that either the headers or the harness connector is at fault. Additionally, check for bad connectors inside the speaker output housing connection. If the sound board in question uses edge finger connections, check the edge connector inside the housing of the output to the speaker. In either case, if the output harness uses an insulation displacement connector (IDC), check to make sure the wires are securely seated inside the connector of the housing.<br><br><br />
#In some but not all instances, sound boards use a 5-legged amplifier with a heat sink attached. Sound boards with this type of amp may have cracked solder joints at the legs of the amp. If gently wiggling the amps heat sink makes sound cut in and out, suspect cracked solder joints on the legs of the amp.<br><br />
<br />
Remaining issues are typically sound board specific. Please review the appropriate repair pages regarding the sound board in question.<br />
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<br />
=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=<br />
Need to cover...<br><br />
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)<br><br />
SOIC to DIP adapters<br><br />
<br />
==Resistor Networks==<br />
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations"><br />
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Bussed Resistor Network</b></center><br />
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Isolated Resistor Network</b></center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
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[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.<br />
<br />
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1.<br><br />
<font color=Red><need a picture of this></font><br />
<br />
=The Switch Matrix=<br />
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.<br />
<br />
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required. <br />
<br />
<u>'''How a switch matrix works'''</u><br />
<br />
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.<br />
<br />
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse). <br />
<br />
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.<br><br />
<br />
<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Switch Matrix IN WORK=<br />
<youtube v="Bo3wVuyJtXA" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<youtube v="rNx2D6KeAxQ" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:NormalSwitchMatrixOperation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Normal Switch Matrix Operation]]<br />
[[Image:ShortedDiodeFailureInSwitchMatrix.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Implications of a Shorted Diode in the Switch Matrix]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=General Illumination=<br />
<br />
General Illumination is lighting that switches on (generally) when game power is turned on. Some general illumination circuits are switched on by an electromechanical relay (EM games, Williams System 11, and all eras of solid state Gottlieb games for instance). Some GI circuits are controlled by the MPU (WPC games). General illumination lamps are essentially the same as Christmas tree lights. They come on when power is applied.<br />
<br />
[[File:SST-GIModification.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Underside of Starship Troopers playfield showing mod to top lane guide GI lamp installation.]]<br><br><br />
Some GI sockets are very difficult to get to, like in Sega's Starship Troopers. One way to ease the job is to get at the lamps from under the playfield where possible. This requires a small modification to your game and some short wood screws. In the picture at left, the OEM staples have been removed and replaced with a standard pinball target screw. One screw is really enough since the lamp isn't going anywhere. To replace a lamp, simply remove the screw, pull the socket, replace the lamp, and reinstall. Make certain the length of the screw will not protrude through the top of the playfield. Those who prefer the look of LEDs should consider using LEDs in these tough to reach places.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=The Lamp Matrix=<br />
<br />
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.<br />
<br />
All EM's control lamps with switches on relay stacks, or wipers on disc units.<br />
<br />
'''How the lamp matrix works'''<br />
<br />
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.<br />
<br />
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.<br />
<br />
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''<br />
<br />
#Fewer wires<br />
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp matrix problems'''<br />
<br />
#Single lamp out<br />
#Single lamp locked on<br />
#multiple lamps in a row<br />
#multiple lamps in a column<br />
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not<br />
<br />
'''Typical causes'''<br />
<br />
#Wiring shorts<br />
#Shorted diode(s)<br />
<br />
=How coils, flashers, and motors are turned on=<br />
<br />
In most machines, every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at all coil lugs. Exceptions are...<br><br />
*Williams System 11 and Data East/Sega games which have an A/C (side) select relay that switches power between two banks...a bank of coils and a bank of flashers.<br />
*Flipper coils on Data East games that use the Solid State Flipper Board. The SSFB provides power to the coils only after the cabinet flipper button switch is closed.<br />
<br />
[[File:CoilPowerDiagram.jpg|400px|left|thumb|A simple representation of how power is always present at all coil lugs, waiting to "find ground" via a switch. Solid state pinball machines use transistors to "switch" power to ground (a TIP-102 transistor for instance)]]<br><br />
If you set your DMM to DC voltage, place the black lead of your DMM on game ground such as the ground braid or the side rail, and place the red lead of your DMM on either coil lug, you should read nominal coil voltage (exactly what voltage level depends on the game system). Your DMM reads the voltage at both/all coil lugs because, when the coil is off, there is no current through the coil to cause a voltage drop. Power present at one coil lug is guaranteed to be present at the other coil lug unless the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is disconnected from the lug.<br />
<br />
Referencing the diagram at left, placing the red probe of your DMM at any point labeled "P", and the black lead of your DMM on game ground (labeled "G"), should read nominal coil voltage.<br />
<br />
All that is required for the coil to "fire" is for the ground lug of the coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor, or by closing a switch that creates a path to ground. <br />
<br />
Note that this also a good example of how to test a coil, and the power circuit. Grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly. If the coil does not fire, then either the coil is not receiving power, or the coil winding has a break in it, or the coil winding is not attached securely to the coil's solder tab(s).<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Flippers=<br />
<br />
;How does a flipper work?<br />
:Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the coil to overheat or the fuse to blow. Note that it takes less power to hold the flipper up than it does to pull the plunger in for the initial flip due to the effect the metal plunger has on what is initially an air-core coil.<br />
<br />
;High Voltage flipper operation<br />
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.<br />
<br />
:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.<br />
<br />
:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.<br />
<br />
:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.<br />
<br />
;Solid State Flipper operation<br />
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.<br />
<br />
:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.<br />
<br />
:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.<br />
<br />
;Summary of EOS switch function for various types of games<br />
*EM: EOS switch shorts hold winding until flipper is actuated. This allows the power coil to provide full strength during the flipper movement but switch over to the lower power hold winding at the end of movement. In reality, both the power and hold coils are in series during hold operation.<br />
*Data East: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40 ms) switch-over from 50V to 8V for hold operation. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. See Maverick game manual page 90 for theory of operation. <br />
*Stern: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40ms) switchover to 1ms pulses every 12ms to hold the coil up. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. For a description of Stern flipper operation, see [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/BATMAN_SGM/BATMAN_SEC5_CHP2.pdf Stern Batman TDK Manual Section 5 Chapter 2 Page 106]<br />
*Williams: Fliptronic board provides CPU-controlled coil drivers for the flippers. When EOS switch closes power is switched to the hold winding. Williams WPC flipper problems are discussed in the [[Williams_WPC#Flipper_Problems]] section.<br />
<br />
==Weak Flippers - What to check==<br />
[[File:CoilSleeveWithInternalRingResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn coil sleeve, with an internal "ring" worn into it. This ring prevented the plunger from being fully pulled in.]]<br><br />
There are many problems that can lead to weak flippers. Some flipper problems are unique to EM games, but there are many problems common to both EM and SS games.<br />
Problems can be either electrical or mechanical. Below is a list of items to check. General things to note are whether both flippers are weak or just one, if the flipper won't flip will it stay up if the bat is manually moved to the up position, and does the flipper bat move easily when moved by hand. The following list details problems that can cause weak flippers.<br />
<br />
#End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch dirty. <br>The power winding of a flipper coil is only a few ohms of resistance so it doesn't take too much added resistance in the EOS switch to degrade the flipper power. If an EOS switch is not making contact at all the flipper will likely not flip, but will hold if you manually actuate the flipper.<br />
#Flipper switch dirty. <br>For EM games, flipper power is provided through the flipper switch. Added resistance of a fouled switch can weaken flippers.<br />
#Coil sleeve worn or dirty. <br>Cleaning the coil plunger and sleeve will improve flipper performance. Some older games had metal sleeves that should be replaced with modern nylon sleeves. Even when wear can not be seen, replacing the coil sleeve often helps.<br />
#Coil stop or plunger mushroomed. <br>Coils operate best when there is a flat surface between the plunger end and the coil stop. A mushroomed coil stop or plunger can cause the flipper to buzz when held up.<br />
#Flipper spring too tight. <br>This can also result in noisy flippers when held up. The flipper spring should be adjusted so that it can barely return the flippers to their resting postion when the playfield is up.<br />
#Flipper bushing binding. <br>A worn flipper bushing or a misadjusted flipper bat can result in binding that impedes flipper movement. Make sure there is a small amount of vertical play in the flipper to prevent binding.<br />
#Hogged out fiber link. <br>Over time the holes in the flipper links can become elongated. The play in the flipper movement results in wasted coil movement and thus reduced flipper strength.<br />
#Power issues. <br>Make sure you are getting full voltage at the flipper coil. Usually a power problem will cause both flippers to be weak.<br />
#Drive transistor bad (SS only) <br>In solid state games it is possible to have a transistor that is bad but still somewhat operational. Usually the bad transistor will get noticeably hotter than other similar transistors.<br />
#Power Winding bad. <br>Coil failures are rare, but check from broken solder connections and broken coil wires at the coil lugs.<br />
<br />
=Changing Batteries=<br />
Solid state machines have batteries to save high score and setting information when the machine is powered off. Usually these are three AA batteries mounted on the CPU board. They should be changed annually to prevent leakage that will damage the CPU board.<br />
<br />
Batteries can be changed with the machine powered on so that settings are maintained. Some people recommend changing one battery at a time, but this is only to help ensure that the new batteries are installed with the correct polarity.<br />
<br />
The best thing you can do for your game is to install a remote battery holder, which moves the batteries completely off of the CPU board. See the specific game system section for instructions to perform this simple modification.<br />
<br />
=Coil Chart=<br />
<br />
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at<br />
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html<br />
<br />
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Chart=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Voltage (V)<br />
!Current(A)<br />
!Candle Power<br />
!Life (hours)<br />
!Base<br />
!Typical Use<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|44<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|47<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|55<br />
|7.0<br />
|.41<br />
|2.00<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47<br> '''Not a good replacement in pop bumpers or behind backglasses (too much heat generated)'''<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|63<br />
|7.0<br />
|.63<br />
|3.0<br />
|1,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Used in early Williams solid state games like Flash.<br> Found in Williams games as late as High Speed; typically installed in series<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|67<br />
|13.5<br />
|.59<br />
|4.0<br />
|5,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Exclusively used as flash lamps on Gottlieb (Premier) games<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|73<br />
|14.0<br />
|.80<br />
|.30<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|86<br />
|6.3<br />
|.20<br />
|.40<br />
|20,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism;Gottlieb Victory ramp chaser lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|89<br />
|13.0<br />
|.58<br />
|6.00<br />
|750<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|159<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.34<br />
|5000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the #555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|194<br />
|14.0<br />
|.27<br />
|2.00<br />
|1,500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Whitewater Topper Lamps<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (instrument panel / dash lamps)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|199<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.25<br />
|32.00<br />
|1500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Alternate for 1156 lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|313<br />
|28<br />
|0.17<br />
|3.5<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|447<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|455<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.5<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Blinker<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|545<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.31<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|555<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|906<br />
|13.0<br />
|.69<br />
|6.00<br />
|1000<br />
|T-5 Wedge<br />
|Flash Lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1156<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.1<br />
|32.00<br />
|1,200<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed II beacon lamp and Creature from the Black Lagoon hologram projection lamp<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (reverse and front turn signal lamp in some vehicles)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1251<br />
|28.0<br />
|.23<br />
|3.00<br />
|2,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1683<br />
|28.0<br />
|1.02<br />
|32.00<br />
|500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed, F-14 Tomcat, and Rescue 911 beacon lamps; Fire! flame tube projection lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1847<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.38<br />
|5,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Dimmer, longer lasting version of 47 bulb; for areas where vibration is a factor (pop bumpers, etc.)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.<br />
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.<br />
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.<br />
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)<br />
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter<br />
<br />
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Sockets=<br />
<br />
Some later games have illuminated buttons for start and possibly other functions. These are typically located on the front of the cabinet. Instructions on replacing the lamp in those switches can be found [http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/installation_illuminated.htm here].<br />
<br />
=Fuse Table=<br />
<br />
<center><font size="4">'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</font></center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center><br />
<br />
{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 5A<br />
| BR, DC coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 10A<br />
| Main, BR, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|- align="left"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils-under PF<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Displays<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Service outlet<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Main line power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils, Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/16A<br />
| High Voltage on SDB<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Pop bumpers (Sys80/80A/80B), Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| Display power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main, coils, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 4A<br />
| 12v/5v power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB<br />
| PS, lamps, displays<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| 5A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 15A<br />
| General Illumination<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 20A<br />
| Switched Lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Display high voltage<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Power supply (displays)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB<br />
| Display driver board<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Aux board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Sound board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Power supply, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| 5v power (L7 games)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 20A<br />
| General illumination<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 1/10A<br />
| Cabinet, displays<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A <br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega &amp; New Stern'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| Display<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB<br />
| Display<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB<br />
| 12v PS F101<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Lamps, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB<br />
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Coils, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB<br />
| Switched lamps, line<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Line, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB<br />
| Coils main F108<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Power line, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T2.5A SB<br />
| Audio F501, F502<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Resistors=<br />
Resistors typically have a standard color coding scheme, (the exceptions are some power resistors which have the value and wattage inked on the resistor), which is used to identify the resistor's value and tolerance. The resistor's value and tolerance can be identified on this [http://samengstrom.com/24614782/en/read/4_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes?history=5107960,24614782 website] by clicking the appropriate color bands.<br />
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<br />
=Game Software (ROMs)=<br />
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features. These home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case, it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]<br />
<br />
Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. DO NOT depend on the labels on the replacement roms "matching" a direction on your machine! ALWAYS check the orientation based on the notches. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement. <br />
<br />
Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.<br />
<br />
Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.<br />
<br />
=Counterfeit Integrated Circuits=<br />
<br />
[[File:MOS 6532.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bogus 6532 Chips]]<br />
As time passes, the need for through hole integrated circuits (IC chips) in current manufacturing decreases. Most consumable electronics today are using surface mount ICs. However, through hole ICs are what nearly 90% of all solid state pinball machines use on circuit boards. And as the need decreases, the price increases. Enter the counterfeiters. It may sound absurd, but there is a whole "underground" industry of counterfeit IC chips being created. How are they typically counterfeited? Old ICs are sourced, the top of the chip is either sanded or painted over with the correct identifiers as to what chip it is, and a new identifier is inked over. Some counterfeit chips are fairly obvious (see the pic to the left to view two sanded IC tops), while others are not so obvious.<br><br />
<br />
The moral to this is know who you are buying from. Avoid buying components from sellers who offer product at "too good to be true" prices. Some of these types of sellers peddle their product on eBay, and originate from the Far East. Keep in mind that even trusted sellers are not totally immune from counterfeit chips, but the really good sellers have a better grasp on reducing the sales of counterfeit chips from their inventory.<br />
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<br />
=Tumbling Parts to Clean Them=<br />
[[File:TarnishedMetalPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A batch of playfield posts, etc from a Gottlieb Buckaroo.]]<br><br />
A quick way to shine a lot of metal parts is to use a "parts tumbler". (Technically, what is referred to in this section is a Vibrating Polisher - the name comes from a rock tumbler polisher, which can also be used but takes much longer.) Tumblers can typically be purchased at Bass Pro Shops as shooting enthusiasts use them to polish brass cartridges. One of the "old standards" is the [http://www.berrysmfg.com/product-i14546-c47-g8-b0-p0-400_Tumbler.aspx model 400 made by Berry's Manufacturing]. Crushed walnut shell media works well. It can be acquired at pet stores where it is sold as lizard bedding. For gentle less aggressive tumbling, use corn cob media. Additives such as "Flitz" or even a squirt of Novus 3 have been used to improve results. KIT Scratch Out also works very well for this application.<br />
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<br />
[[File:TumbledBuckARooPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Ah yes...nice and shiny. These parts were tumbled for about 24 hours in crushed walnut shell media.]]<br><br />
Tumbling approaches the point of diminishing returns after about 24 hours. Tumbling past 24 hours doesn't yield much improvement.<br />
<br />
To remove the walnut shell media from flat-blade screws, a dental pick works well.<br><br />
To remove the media from Gottlieb "Speed Nuts" or Acorn Nuts, shake them inside a plastic container. The media falls right out.<br />
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<br />
=How to Properly File Switch Contacts=<br />
This is a stub<br />
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<br />
=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
:Check the tightness of all under playfield mechanisms. It's not uncommon for mechanisms (even with lock nuts) to loosen up over time. Do not overtighten and strip out any holes, just snug them in. If you find any loose holes, repair with glue and toothpicks. Once everything is tight again, mechanism action will be crisper.<br />
<br />
==Leveling the Game==<br />
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting the Game Pitch==<br />
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.<br />
<br />
==Balls==<br />
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.<br />
<br />
:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting flippers==<br />
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.<br />
<br />
:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.<br />
<br />
:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.<br />
<br />
:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.<br />
<br />
:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting drop targets==<br />
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well). Take caution in cleaning the drop target face. If a face is stamped with artwork, most chemicals (even mild ones) will remove the artwork.<br />
<br />
:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.<br />
<br />
===Williams===<br />
:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.<br />
<br />
:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.<br />
<br />
:Later Williams' drop banks went to a two-spring design, one to pull the target down, and one coil spring to push the target forward on reset. This design started sometime around the Big Guns era. There's not a lot of adjustment needed in this type of target other than to clean them very well, and to ensure that the rubber grommets and the washer/screw combination are not too tight. They should be tightened just enough so the target will reset properly, but not so much that the target drops slowly. The weak points of this design are the ledge the drop targets rest on, and the studs used to hold the drop target reset coil stop. Originally, a small strip of tempered, spring steel was used for the ledge. This piece of spring steel was riveted to the drop target assy. frame. If it cracks or breaks, a single target or targets in the bank will not properly reset, as there is no ledge for them to rest in the up position. Williams realized this issue, and later versions of this type of drop target assy., somewhere around Earthshaker, were made with a replaceable ledge. Likewise, the coil stops were mounted with studs integrated into the drop target frame assy. These studs can snap off flush with the frame, allowing only one side or neither to hold the coil stop in place. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Gottlieb===<br />
:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their original design. There are 2 discrete springs used; one to pull the drops in the proper direction to reset correctly, and another to provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.<br />
<br />
:The 2-spring Gottlieb design changed during the system 80B era. This design change moved the reset coil from the outside of the drop target assy. to the underside, center of the assy. on small and single banks. Multiple reset coils were still used on banks larger than 4 targets. The benefit of the new design was less moving parts and a slightly smaller mounting footprint. However, the newer design eliminated the two spring design, and the smooth even stroke for the reset. While the targets still drop down smartly, on reset occasionally they will reset too high, or some targets will fail to reset, if the reset coil is not adjusted properly. Well beyond the time of the initial design change, some System 3 games use a combination of the old and new style drop target assys. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Bally===<br />
:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.<br />
<br />
:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place. Be sure any added shims don't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.<br />
<br />
:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.<br />
<br />
:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chiclet" style for over 25 years.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Stern (Classic)===<br />
:Classic Stern drops, commonly referred to as "chiclets", were originally similar to the Bally "tombstone" style, and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the playfield, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.<br />
<br />
:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking a pop bumper==<br />
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.<br />
<br />
:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.<br />
<br />
:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.<br />
<br />
:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.<br />
<br />
==Tuning a spinner==<br />
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.<br />
<br />
:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 2000 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.<br />
<br />
:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.<br />
<br />
:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.<br />
<br />
:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==<br />
:Most would ask why you would <b>want</b> to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.<br />
<br />
:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.<br />
<br />
:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.<br />
<br />
:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).<br />
<br />
:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.<br />
<br />
:Shaking a pinball is a part of the game, and possibly a greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.<br />
<br />
:Another trick is to ensure the playfield is attached solidly in some way to the cabinet. Older games have a metal clamping bracket in the cabinet to lock down the playfield, allowing better nudging action. Some older games use screws to attach the playfield to the cabinet. Metal hanger brackets used on newer machines take some of the nudging force away by allowing the playfield's suspension to absorb some of the force. A piece of cardboard folded and wedged at the playfield apron will help remove this factor and allowing more subtle shaking of the machine. This in turn will allow a tighter tilt if desired since the playfield will react to smaller nudges versus stock.<br />
<br />
==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==<br />
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).<br />
<br />
:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.<br />
<br />
:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.<br />
<br />
:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking lane guides==<br />
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.<br />
<br />
:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.<br />
<br />
:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size smaller than needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.<br />
<br />
:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.<br />
<br />
:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.<br />
<br />
:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or has its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.<br />
<br />
==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==<br />
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.<br />
<br />
:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.<br />
<br />
==Plungers==<br />
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.<br />
<br />
:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.<br />
<br />
:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a weak spring to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.<br />
<br />
==Coil Sleeves==<br />
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.<br />
<br />
:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid. If a coil plunger is particularly mushroomed, replace it.<br />
<br />
==Connectors and Soldering==<br />
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems. A steel or brass wire bottle brush of the appropriate size works well to clean Jones plugs, and you can get a very fine nylon bottle brush to clean the female connectors. Don't use a metal brush to clean the female side unless you're sure to find and clean up any broken brush strands.<br />
<br />
:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Make sure any wire management straps are being used to support the weight of the harness going into the cabinet instead of depending on the header pin to support all that weight. Resoldering the header pins will fix the cracking and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.<br />
<br />
:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.<br />
<br />
==Slingshots==<br />
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back. Replace the sling switches with new switches or replace just the blade if they have been bent and mangled from incorrect adjustments. It's easier but more expensive to replace the entire switch vs. getting the blade parts (blade parts alone are <$1.00, new switches anywhere from $2.75-$6.00 depending on bracket installed/not and vendor).<br />
<br />
:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.<br />
<br />
:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is threefold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling). Thirdly, they prevent a ball from working its way under the rubber and getting trapped in the triangle under the sling plastic.<br />
<br />
:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. Grasp the actuator arm and rock it slightly at a right angle to its normal activation arc to check for wear. You will usually see some lateral slop in a sling mechanism; if it's excessive power will be lost on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or use a small nylon washer to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).<br />
<br />
==Standup/stationary Targets==<br />
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent so the target leans backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.<br />
<br />
:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is breached or gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes. Inspect the switch blades that make up the target and straighten any out that are mangled.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General&diff=11210General2014-02-09T07:34:23Z<p>Mr: /* Solder */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.<br />
<br />
=Safety=<br />
==Grounded 3-Prong Plug==<br />
[[File:3Prong Clipped.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Typical "clipped" 3rd prong on plug]]<br><br />
If the earth ground prong of a 3-prong plug is clipped or missing, replace the plug. Many of these plugs were clipped, because some older locations where games were placed only had two-prong outlets. The 3rd prong connects the games electrical circuits to "earth ground". In place, it reduces the risk of shock and protects the user. If you have neighboring machines and you feel a "tingle" when you touch the metal rails on both, one or both machines have a missing ground prong.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter set on continuity to ensure that the ground pin is connected to all the metal touchable parts of the game - the rails, the coin door, the legs bolts, etc. Investigate any missing wires and correct. Older games that came without a ground plug should have one added. Attach the green ground wire to the metal frame of the game transformer. Connect ground wires to all touchable metal parts on the game.<br />
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<br />
==Overfusing==<br />
[[File:BoltForAFuse.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The never blow, 1.21 GigaWatt fuse. Obviously, this is NOT recommended.]]<br><br />
Fuses are designed into your game's electrical circuitry to protect the circuits from damage should some component fail and begin to draw too much electrical current. They are designed to be the "weakest link" in the circuit. When too much current is drawn through the circuit, the fuse should be the first part of the circuit to fail.<br />
<br />
Although fuses sometimes fail due to old age or vibration, fuses usually fail for a reason. Locked on coils or flashers, direct shorts of power to ground, and many other reasons will cause a fuse to blow. If you replace a fuse, and it blows again, then you can be sure that something has gone awry.<br />
<br />
Always install fuses at the rating specified for your game. Installing a fuse rated higher than spec may cause some other part of the game circuitry to become the weakest link, and damage parts of the game that the fuse is designed to protect.<br />
<br />
Fuses are rated in terms of voltage and most importantly amps. Fuses are also designed as "fast blow" or "slow blow"/"time delayed blow". Typical sizes for pinball machines are 1.25 inches and 20mm.<br />
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<br />
=Parts to have on hand=<br />
'''All Machines'''<br />
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.<br />
<br />
'''Electromechanical Machines'''<br />
*#455 "Blinker" type bulbs for backglass highlights. Helps with heat in the head as well as they are usually about 50% duty cycle.<br />
*Replacement switch blades and high voltage contacts<br />
<br />
'''Solid State Machines'''<br />
<br />
*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a generic replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.<br />
*Replacement leaf blades and gold flashed contacts<br />
*TIP-102 Transistors<br />
*IN4004 Diodes<br />
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most versatile)<br />
<br />
=Tools of the Trade=<br />
<br />
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.<br />
<br />
==Mechanical Tools==<br />
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches<br />
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy<br />
*Nut driver set, which should include<br />
**1/4" nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts<br />
**5/16 nut driver - used for #6 nuts<br />
**11/32 nut driver - #8 nuts<br />
**3/8 nut driver - used for #10 nuts<br />
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts<br />
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. <br />
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.<br />
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.<br />
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.<br />
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.<br />
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.<br />
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench<br />
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts<br />
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench<br />
*Pliers<br />
*High-brightness LED flashlight<br />
*Magnetic pickup tool<br />
*Magnetic parts dish<br />
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)<br />
<br />
== Electrical Tools ==<br />
<br />
*A few alligator clip leads for testing<br />
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.<br />
*Side cutters<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.<br />
*For Connector Work<br />
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...<br />
**Connector pin pusher .093"<br />
**Connector pin pusher .062"<br />
<br />
'''Molex Crimper Styles'''<br />
<br />
[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]<br />
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. <br />
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<br />
'''Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.<br />
<br />
Portable:<br />
<br />
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.<br />
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)<br><br />
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)<br><br />
<br />
There is also a type of cordless battery powered iron referred to as "cold heat" - these do not work well for any pinball application, due to the lack of control over the quality of the solder joint produced. Avoid these for pinball work.<br />
<br />
Corded:<br />
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)<br><br />
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)<br><br />
*Weller W60P (temperature controlled)<br><br />
Station:<br />
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)<br />
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)<br />
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)<br />
<br />
'''Advanced Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
The move to lead-free manufacturing forced manufacturers to solder at a more tightly controlled, lower temperature. This requirement led to new irons that can deliver lots of heat, quickly. They have heat-up times of less than 10 seconds, and can solder larger joints than conventional irons. They have tips with built-in elements and temperature sensors. The tips show up on eBay, new and used. They are relatively expensive ($10 - $30) but last longer than regular tips. Expect to spend $200 - $400 to kit up with one of these (eBay). They are valuable if you do board work, as the fast heat delivery means the solder melts without overheating the pad. <br />
<br />
Metcal has been making these new irons for some time, so the systems are relatively common on eBay. <br />
<br />
<br />
Metcal MX-500P<br />
JBC - these irons really do heat up in 2 seconds (20W handpiece)<br />
Hakko FM series<br />
Weller WXT series<br />
<br />
Ersa, Goot, Pace<br />
<br />
==Desoldering Tools==<br />
<br />
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.<br />
<br />
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.<br />
<br />
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.<br />
<br />
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.<br />
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.<br />
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.<br />
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use<br />
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.<br />
<br />
==Rework Solder Stations==<br />
<br />
*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) <br><br />
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder extractor)<br />
*Aoyue 2703A+ SMD repair & rework. Has soldering iron w/vacuum suction, desoldering gun, and hot air gun.<br />
<br />
==EM Tools==<br />
[[file:SwitchTools.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Leaf switch tools|1) Ignition points file for Tungsten contacts <br>2) Flexstone <br>3) Vendor supplied leaf switch adjustment tool <br>4) Homemade switch adjustment tool <br>5) Push-pull spring tool]]<br><br><br />
*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.<br />
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.<br />
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Cleaning & Restoration Supplies==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Product<br />
!Uses<br />
!Where to get<br />
<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 1<br />
|Light cleaning of plastics and playfield. Dust/dirt removal<br />
|grocery store?<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 2<br />
|General cleaning and polishing of plastics and playfield.<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 3<br />
|Cleaning for metal parts only<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Millwax<br />
|Not recommended for most playfields, except when?<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|90% isopropyl alcohol<br />
|Cleaning PCB boards. Evaporates quickly.<br />
|drug store (CVS, etc)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Deoxit contact cleaner<br />
|electrical contact deoxidizer<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Carnauba wax<br />
|playfield waxing<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Simple green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning, degreaser<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Mean green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Bleche white<br />
|wire assembly<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Krylon Triple Thick<br />
|backglass sealant<br />
|pinrestore.com, bigdaddyenterprises.com<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Lubrication==<br />
In nearly every instance, lubrication should not be used. The exceptions are metal on metal mechanical points (stepper unit pivot points, stepper unit wipers, and the pivot points of '''very few''' mechanical assys.). Although Williams stated to use graphite powder for lubrication on coil plungers where aluminum or brass coil sleeves were used, it is best to just replace the metal coil sleeves with new nylon sleeves ('''Note:''' some brass coil sleeves are integral to the coil's winding, and are not removeable). A general rule of thumb is where metal makes contact with plastic, lubrication is not needed. However, if lubrication is necessary, Super Lube Teflon gel is a very good product to use. However, it should be used very sparingly. When in doubt, under lubrication is better than over lubrication.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:WD-40 01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WD-40 needs no introduction]]<br><br><br><br />
[[File:WD-40 Coin Door.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Removal of Coin Door Sticker Residue with WD-40]]<br><br><br><br />
'''In no instance should WD-40 be used as a lubricant!''' WD-40 is a great product, but should used as intended. It can be used for breaking apart seized screws, bolts, or associated mechanisms, but should thoroughly be cleaned off once a unit has been disassembled.<br><br />
<br />
There is one other good use for WD-40 regarding pinball machines. Coin door stickers, operator stickers on aprons, and game permit stickers all tend to make their way onto pinball machines. WD-40 is a very good product which can be used to remove sticker residue.<br />
It also makes an excellent hand cleaner.<br />
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<br />
==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==<br />
<font color=red>In work</font><br />
<br />
=Preparing Printed Circuit Cards (PCBs) for Shipping or Storage=<br />
<br />
[[Image:PCBWrappedInFoilResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Williams DMD Controller prepared for shipment, wrapped in aluminum foil. This method is a reasonable alternative when an ESD safe bag isn't available.]]<br><br />
Pinball boards (PCBs) are sensitive to Electro-Static Discharge (ESD). Static electricity that builds up in your body or via packaging material that rubs together can "shock" the sensitive components on a PCB, damaging them in doing so.<br />
<br />
Board repair techs go through great pains to ground themselves while working on PCBs.<br />
<br />
If you need to store or to ship a PCB, enclose it in an ESD safe bag. If a bag isn't available, wrap the board in aluminum foil. Both will protect the board from ESD.<br />
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<br />
=How to Twist Wires Together Neatly=<br />
Easy as Pie...<br />
#Chuck both wires in a slow speed drill<br />
#Hold other end firmly<br />
#Engage, and watch with amazement as the wires neatly twist around each-other.<br />
As you can see from the results below, this old technique yields excellent results.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="How to neatly twist two (or more) wires together"><br />
File:WireWindingStart.jpg|<center>Chuck the wires</center><br />
File:WireWindingEnd.jpg|<center>End result</center><br />
File:WireWindingDetail.jpg|<center>End result detail. Nice...</center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Soldering=<br />
<br />
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering. <br />
<br />
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!<br />
<br />
==Equipment and Supplies==<br />
<br />
===The basic soldering iron===<br />
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. One example is the Weller WESD-51.<br />
<br />
===Tip Cleaner===<br />
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.<br />
<br />
===Solder===<br />
There are three things that matter with solder. <br />
<br />
The diameter. In pinball, .031" is a good general purpose size. Thicker, and you'll be blobbing everywhere except on the biggest joints. Thinner, and it takes a lot of solder to feed a joint.<br />
<br />
The alloy, typically tin-lead, expressed as something like 63/37, which means 63% tin and 37% lead. For pinball, 63/37 is the best overall alloy. The common 60/40 is a shade cheaper, but isn't as good. In particular, it goes through a pasty mode before it hardens. If it is moved while pasty, you can get a bad joint. You can use 60/40, but 63/37 is more reliable. You won't like lead-free solder, as it has to be hotter and does not flow as well. Plus, even good joints look frosty. <br />
<br />
The flux, which might be rosin, no-clean or water soluble. You don't want water soluble, as it can leave an acid residue if not washed. No clean is nice, as it doesn't leave blobs of flux hanging on a joint. Rosin, the classic flux, is aggressive and effective, but leaves joints dirty and should be cleaned with alcohol when used on boards. <br />
<br />
A fourth parameter is the number of solder cores, typically 50 - 66. Doesn't matter for pinball, but a higher core count should be a little easier to use. <br />
<br />
So you will want one of these two types:<br />
- Rosin-core .031 63/37 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-0026). This is super easy to use and will get you the best joints (AKA Kester 44)<br />
- No-clean .031 6337 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-8801). Easy to use, no cleaning needed (AKA Kester 245). <br />
<br />
<br />
If you want to get solder locally, Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. <br />
<br />
As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. However, the US still has few restrictions on the use and sale of leaded solder. <br />
<br />
Here is one supplier of Kester 245 "no-clean" solder (with an obsolete 50 core count): [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life] <br />
<br />
A useful supplier is MCM Electronics. They carry a good range of 63/37 solders by good brands such as Kester and Multicore, and also sell smaller spools. MCM also has good pinball cabinet speakers, and often has free shipping for orders over $50.<br />
[http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?cataf=&view=list&w=solder+63%2F37&x=0&y=0 MCM Electronics 63/37 Solders]<br />
<br />
Mouser also carries a good range of 63/37 solders<br />
[http://www.mouser.com/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?P=1yzt5jhZ1yzxbyq Mouser 63/37 solders]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Under no circumstances should Acid-core (plumbing) solder be used anywhere on a pinball machine.'''<br />
<br />
===Optional Equipment===<br />
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.<br />
<br />
==Soldering wires==<br />
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything. <br />
<br />
Here are the simple steps:<br />
<br />
#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.<br />
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.<br />
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.<br />
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool. <br />
<br />
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts through the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or "hemo-stats" are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, you may have created what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.<br />
<br />
'''Things to Know'''<br />
<br />
*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and the solder joint will be unreliable.<br />
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. Once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.<br />
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that threading the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.<br />
<br />
== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==<br />
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.<br><br />
<br />
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are delicate and can become damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied for too long, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult. It is better to use more heat for less time than less heat for more time.<br><br />
<br />
When the replacement of a chip is necessary, it is recommended to use a chip socket (in most all instances - there are some exceptions), versus soldering a replacement chip directly onto the circuit board. The reasoning is two-fold:<br />
<br />
# Adding a chip socket reduces the amount of heat applied to a circuit board in the future should the same chip fail.<br />
# If the same chip does fail, replacement of the chip will be much easier.<br />
<br />
When soldering a chip socket in place, skipping from side to side for subsequent joints or skipping every other pin as you solder can help alleviate the risk of heating up a small part of the board, causing lifted pads and traces. A good solderer with the proper equipment can solder a 40 pin chip socket into place on a PCB in about 2 minutes.<br><br />
<br />
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Socket check work.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Testing for (lack of) continuity between chip socket positions]]<br><br />
After a chip socket has been soldered onto a board, it is equally a good practice to check for continuity between the socket pin and the adjoining circuitry, and discontinuity between adjacent socket positions. If there isn't continuity between the chip socket and its associated circuits, check / inspect the work performed. Likewise, if there is continuity between neighboring chip socket positions, check for excess solder or foreign material creating a conductive bridge between the two.<br><br />
<br />
'''Note:''' in some cases, a PCB has traces or pads intentionally tied together between adjacent chip sockets. Consult the schematics of the particular board being worked on to verify if this is the case, when two sockets are determined to have continuity.<br />
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<br />
=== Bending Discrete Through-hole Components ===<br />
[[File:BendingThroughHoleComponents.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to bend through-hole components using a drop target.]]<br><br />
An easy way to bend resistors, capacitors, etc to length when replacing them is to use a popsicle stick or an old drop target, as pictured at left. Bend the leads around the target. This works well for many older game systems like Bally -17/-35, Williams, etc.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"===<br />
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.<br />
<br />
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.<br />
<br />
[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]]<br><br />
'''Procedure''':<br><br />
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".<br><br />
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough.<br><br />
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.<br><br />
#Solder the first side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place.<br><br />
#All done!<br />
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<br />
===Using an old Socket to Align SIPs and Headers===<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionSIPs.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Using a socket to align SIP (Single Inline Package) machine pin socket strips.]]<br><br />
Using an old socket to position two SIPs perfectly is easy, as shown in the picture at left.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionHeaders.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to align header pins across two header strips.]]<br><br />
Likewise, an old socket can be used to position headers perfectly in line when more than one header strip is used/needed.<br />
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<br />
=Desoldering=<br />
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each<br />
<br />
Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts<br />
<br />
=DIP (Dual In-line Package) Pin Numbering Convention=<br />
[[File:Dip14pins.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DIP 14 pin]]<br>The diagram at left shows standard pin numbering for integrated circuits. Pin #1 is always located at the chips "dot" or if not dot, immediately to the left of the chips "notch". The pin "legs" are then numbered sequentially around the chip counter-clockwise. This convention is observed for DIP packages of all sizes. <br />
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<br />
=Testing an integrated circuit=<br />
<br />
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.<br />
<br />
This test works for many 74XX series ICs.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]<br />
'''Procedure''':<br />
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test. <br />
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".<br />
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if testing multiple chips on the same board.<br />
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
'''Interpreting the results:'''<br />
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.<br><br />
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.<br><br />
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.<br><br />
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.<br />
*Comparing your results against results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
Readings outside of this range may indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.<br />
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<br />
=Testing fuses=<br />
<br />
[[File:BuzzingAFuseTheWrongWay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An example of why you MUST remove a fuse to "buzz" it. This '''empty''' fuse holder is for the GI circuit in a Williams game. The meter is showing continuity with no fuse present. The meter is finding a path back through the transformer secondary.]]<br><br />
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.<br />
<br />
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".<br />
<br />
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading, as shown in the picture at left. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.<br />
<br />
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job of being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.<br />
<br />
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.<br />
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<br />
=Testing a Bridge Rectifier=<br />
<br />
''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.''<br />
<br />
[[File:TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Four Connections to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.]]<br><br />
The picture at left illustrates the 4 readings to be taken when testing a bridge rectifier.<br />
<br />
'''Procedure:'''<br />
<br />
#Place your DMM into "diode test". <br />
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge. <br />
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes). <br />
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge <br />
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen. <br />
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<br />
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit. This part of the bridge is good.]]<br> <br />
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc). <br />
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<br />
=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red><need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on FETs></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on SCRs></font><br><br />
<br />
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used except for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. <br />
<br />
When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own. <br />
<br />
<br />
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)<br />
<br />
[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:<br />
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right<br />
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC<br />
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE<br />
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)<br />
<br />
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.<br />
<br />
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.<br><br />
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''.<br><br />
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).<br><br />
'''Note: A transistor can "test" good and still be bad!!'''<br><br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the red lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the black lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-A13''' transistor.<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-U45''' transistor (or '''NDS-U45''' or '''CEN-U45''' which are equivalents).<br />
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
=Testing a coil=<br />
<br />
If a drive transistor shorts, providing an unintended path to ground for power at a solenoid, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil winding gets hot enough, it will burn through the protective coating on the winding, shorting adjacently wound wires and reducing the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the failed driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged immediately after power on.<br />
<br />
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is wise to check each coil's resistance '''*before*''' switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it! Even examining each coil in the game for burned coil wrappers may help identify a shorted coil.<br />
<br />
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power winding and a hold winding. These are easily identified as they have three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.<br />
<br />
==Testing resistance==<br />
To test a coil's resistance:<br />
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs. <br />
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. Note: Some flipper coils will read less than 2 ohms but still be fine.<br />
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (i.e. the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or drive transistor issue. <br />
<br />
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before powering the game on again.<br />
<br />
==Testing for coil power==<br />
With the machine powered on:<br />
* set your DMM to DC<br />
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one). <br />
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-75v.<br />
<br />
Please note that some games have a coin door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids.<br />
<br />
==Testing the coil diode==<br />
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.<br />
<br />
To test a coil diode:<br />
<br />
* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.<br />
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.<br />
* Place the black lead on the banded side.<br />
* Place the red lead on the non-banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.<br />
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'<br />
<br />
==Testing the driver transistors==<br />
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=Basic Sound Troubleshooting=<br />
Regardless of the manufacturer, there are some simple steps to follow if no sound is present. Below are the steps from simplest to more complicated.<br />
<br />
# Make sure the speaker is properly connected. If female crimp spade connectors are used on the wiring connecting to the speaker terminals, it is not uncommon for the connectors to come loose or even break. If the leads to the speakers are soldered onto the speaker terminals, make certain the wires are soldered well by gently tugging on the wires.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the speaker is good. If no sound is coming out of the speaker, not even a hum when the volume pot is turned up, check to see if the speaker is not blown. For what it is worth, even a speaker with a ripped cone can put out some sound in most cases. The sound may be distorted, but it should be present. There are two ways to test a speaker. The safest way is to hook an ohmmeter up to the two speaker leads, and see if the resistance equals the impedance of the speaker. Most, if not all speakers in pinball machines are either 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The other method for testing a speaker is to hook a 9v battery up to the speaker leads. Prior to hooking up a battery, it is important to disconnect the speaker outputs on the sound board. This will isolate the speaker from the sound board completely. Once the battery is hooked up, the speaker cone should either pull in or flex out, depending on how the battery's polarity was connected to the speaker. '''Do not allow the battery to be connected to the speaker for very long'''.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume potentiometer (pot) is properly connected, if one is used (newer machines like WMS WPC, Stern / Sega White Star, and stern SAM systems use digital potentiometers). If turning the volume pot up does not result in any sound, turn the pot the opposite direction. If no mechanical pot is used, skip the next step.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume pot is good. Using an ohmmeter. connect the leads to the volume pot, and turn the pot back in forth. When the pot is turned completely one way, it should read close to zero ohms (full volume). When turned the opposite direction, the reading should be close to the value of what the pot's rating (pots in pinball machines roughly range from 5 kohms to 25 kohms depending on the manufacturer). Pots sometime develop "dead spots". When the pot is turned from its lowest setting (highest resistance value) to its highest setting (0 ohm resistance), the resistance value should slowly decrease. While turning the pot, if the value spikes to 0 and resumes to a higher value than 0, the pot has a dead spot. TV tuner cleaner can be used to sometimes rectify this problem. Even exercising the pot back and forth can resolve dead spots in a pinch.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the output connections on the sound board are good. If the sound board in question has header pins on the output to the speaker / volume pot, check for cracked header joints. Short of a visual inspection with the board removed from the game, try wiggling the output connector. This does not definitely prove that there are cracked header joints, but it shows that either the headers or the harness connector is at fault. Additionally, check for bad connectors inside the speaker output housing connection. If the sound board in question uses edge finger connections, check the edge connector inside the housing of the output to the speaker. In either case, if the output harness uses an insulation displacement connector (IDC), check to make sure the wires are securely seated inside the connector of the housing.<br><br><br />
#In some but not all instances, sound boards use a 5-legged amplifier with a heat sink attached. Sound boards with this type of amp may have cracked solder joints at the legs of the amp. If gently wiggling the amps heat sink makes sound cut in and out, suspect cracked solder joints on the legs of the amp.<br><br />
<br />
Remaining issues are typically sound board specific. Please review the appropriate repair pages regarding the sound board in question.<br />
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<br />
=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=<br />
Need to cover...<br><br />
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)<br><br />
SOIC to DIP adapters<br><br />
<br />
==Resistor Networks==<br />
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations"><br />
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Bussed Resistor Network</b></center><br />
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Isolated Resistor Network</b></center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
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[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.<br />
<br />
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1.<br><br />
<font color=Red><need a picture of this></font><br />
<br />
=The Switch Matrix=<br />
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.<br />
<br />
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required. <br />
<br />
<u>'''How a switch matrix works'''</u><br />
<br />
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.<br />
<br />
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse). <br />
<br />
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.<br><br />
<br />
<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center><br />
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<br />
=Switch Matrix IN WORK=<br />
<youtube v="Bo3wVuyJtXA" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<youtube v="rNx2D6KeAxQ" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:NormalSwitchMatrixOperation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Normal Switch Matrix Operation]]<br />
[[Image:ShortedDiodeFailureInSwitchMatrix.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Implications of a Shorted Diode in the Switch Matrix]]<br />
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<br />
=General Illumination=<br />
<br />
General Illumination is lighting that switches on (generally) when game power is turned on. Some general illumination circuits are switched on by an electromechanical relay (EM games, Williams System 11, and all eras of solid state Gottlieb games for instance). Some GI circuits are controlled by the MPU (WPC games). General illumination lamps are essentially the same as Christmas tree lights. They come on when power is applied.<br />
<br />
[[File:SST-GIModification.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Underside of Starship Troopers playfield showing mod to top lane guide GI lamp installation.]]<br><br><br />
Some GI sockets are very difficult to get to, like in Sega's Starship Troopers. One way to ease the job is to get at the lamps from under the playfield where possible. This requires a small modification to your game and some short wood screws. In the picture at left, the OEM staples have been removed and replaced with a standard pinball target screw. One screw is really enough since the lamp isn't going anywhere. To replace a lamp, simply remove the screw, pull the socket, replace the lamp, and reinstall. Make certain the length of the screw will not protrude through the top of the playfield. Those who prefer the look of LEDs should consider using LEDs in these tough to reach places.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=The Lamp Matrix=<br />
<br />
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.<br />
<br />
All EM's control lamps with switches on relay stacks, or wipers on disc units.<br />
<br />
'''How the lamp matrix works'''<br />
<br />
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.<br />
<br />
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.<br />
<br />
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''<br />
<br />
#Fewer wires<br />
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp matrix problems'''<br />
<br />
#Single lamp out<br />
#Single lamp locked on<br />
#multiple lamps in a row<br />
#multiple lamps in a column<br />
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not<br />
<br />
'''Typical causes'''<br />
<br />
#Wiring shorts<br />
#Shorted diode(s)<br />
<br />
=How coils, flashers, and motors are turned on=<br />
<br />
In most machines, every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at all coil lugs. Exceptions are...<br><br />
*Williams System 11 and Data East/Sega games which have an A/C (side) select relay that switches power between two banks...a bank of coils and a bank of flashers.<br />
*Flipper coils on Data East games that use the Solid State Flipper Board. The SSFB provides power to the coils only after the cabinet flipper button switch is closed.<br />
<br />
[[File:CoilPowerDiagram.jpg|400px|left|thumb|A simple representation of how power is always present at all coil lugs, waiting to "find ground" via a switch. Solid state pinball machines use transistors to "switch" power to ground (a TIP-102 transistor for instance)]]<br><br />
If you set your DMM to DC voltage, place the black lead of your DMM on game ground such as the ground braid or the side rail, and place the red lead of your DMM on either coil lug, you should read nominal coil voltage (exactly what voltage level depends on the game system). Your DMM reads the voltage at both/all coil lugs because, when the coil is off, there is no current through the coil to cause a voltage drop. Power present at one coil lug is guaranteed to be present at the other coil lug unless the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is disconnected from the lug.<br />
<br />
Referencing the diagram at left, placing the red probe of your DMM at any point labeled "P", and the black lead of your DMM on game ground (labeled "G"), should read nominal coil voltage.<br />
<br />
All that is required for the coil to "fire" is for the ground lug of the coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor, or by closing a switch that creates a path to ground. <br />
<br />
Note that this also a good example of how to test a coil, and the power circuit. Grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly. If the coil does not fire, then either the coil is not receiving power, or the coil winding has a break in it, or the coil winding is not attached securely to the coil's solder tab(s).<br />
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<br />
=Flippers=<br />
<br />
;How does a flipper work?<br />
:Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the coil to overheat or the fuse to blow. Note that it takes less power to hold the flipper up than it does to pull the plunger in for the initial flip due to the effect the metal plunger has on what is initially an air-core coil.<br />
<br />
;High Voltage flipper operation<br />
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.<br />
<br />
:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.<br />
<br />
:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.<br />
<br />
:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.<br />
<br />
;Solid State Flipper operation<br />
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.<br />
<br />
:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.<br />
<br />
:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.<br />
<br />
;Summary of EOS switch function for various types of games<br />
*EM: EOS switch shorts hold winding until flipper is actuated. This allows the power coil to provide full strength during the flipper movement but switch over to the lower power hold winding at the end of movement. In reality, both the power and hold coils are in series during hold operation.<br />
*Data East: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40 ms) switch-over from 50V to 8V for hold operation. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. See Maverick game manual page 90 for theory of operation. <br />
*Stern: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40ms) switchover to 1ms pulses every 12ms to hold the coil up. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. For a description of Stern flipper operation, see [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/BATMAN_SGM/BATMAN_SEC5_CHP2.pdf Stern Batman TDK Manual Section 5 Chapter 2 Page 106]<br />
*Williams: Fliptronic board provides CPU-controlled coil drivers for the flippers. When EOS switch closes power is switched to the hold winding. Williams WPC flipper problems are discussed in the [[Williams_WPC#Flipper_Problems]] section.<br />
<br />
==Weak Flippers - What to check==<br />
[[File:CoilSleeveWithInternalRingResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn coil sleeve, with an internal "ring" worn into it. This ring prevented the plunger from being fully pulled in.]]<br><br />
There are many problems that can lead to weak flippers. Some flipper problems are unique to EM games, but there are many problems common to both EM and SS games.<br />
Problems can be either electrical or mechanical. Below is a list of items to check. General things to note are whether both flippers are weak or just one, if the flipper won't flip will it stay up if the bat is manually moved to the up position, and does the flipper bat move easily when moved by hand. The following list details problems that can cause weak flippers.<br />
<br />
#End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch dirty. <br>The power winding of a flipper coil is only a few ohms of resistance so it doesn't take too much added resistance in the EOS switch to degrade the flipper power. If an EOS switch is not making contact at all the flipper will likely not flip, but will hold if you manually actuate the flipper.<br />
#Flipper switch dirty. <br>For EM games, flipper power is provided through the flipper switch. Added resistance of a fouled switch can weaken flippers.<br />
#Coil sleeve worn or dirty. <br>Cleaning the coil plunger and sleeve will improve flipper performance. Some older games had metal sleeves that should be replaced with modern nylon sleeves. Even when wear can not be seen, replacing the coil sleeve often helps.<br />
#Coil stop or plunger mushroomed. <br>Coils operate best when there is a flat surface between the plunger end and the coil stop. A mushroomed coil stop or plunger can cause the flipper to buzz when held up.<br />
#Flipper spring too tight. <br>This can also result in noisy flippers when held up. The flipper spring should be adjusted so that it can barely return the flippers to their resting postion when the playfield is up.<br />
#Flipper bushing binding. <br>A worn flipper bushing or a misadjusted flipper bat can result in binding that impedes flipper movement. Make sure there is a small amount of vertical play in the flipper to prevent binding.<br />
#Hogged out fiber link. <br>Over time the holes in the flipper links can become elongated. The play in the flipper movement results in wasted coil movement and thus reduced flipper strength.<br />
#Power issues. <br>Make sure you are getting full voltage at the flipper coil. Usually a power problem will cause both flippers to be weak.<br />
#Drive transistor bad (SS only) <br>In solid state games it is possible to have a transistor that is bad but still somewhat operational. Usually the bad transistor will get noticeably hotter than other similar transistors.<br />
#Power Winding bad. <br>Coil failures are rare, but check from broken solder connections and broken coil wires at the coil lugs.<br />
<br />
=Changing Batteries=<br />
Solid state machines have batteries to save high score and setting information when the machine is powered off. Usually these are three AA batteries mounted on the CPU board. They should be changed annually to prevent leakage that will damage the CPU board.<br />
<br />
Batteries can be changed with the machine powered on so that settings are maintained. Some people recommend changing one battery at a time, but this is only to help ensure that the new batteries are installed with the correct polarity.<br />
<br />
The best thing you can do for your game is to install a remote battery holder, which moves the batteries completely off of the CPU board. See the specific game system section for instructions to perform this simple modification.<br />
<br />
=Coil Chart=<br />
<br />
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at<br />
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html<br />
<br />
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Chart=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Voltage (V)<br />
!Current(A)<br />
!Candle Power<br />
!Life (hours)<br />
!Base<br />
!Typical Use<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|44<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|47<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|55<br />
|7.0<br />
|.41<br />
|2.00<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47<br> '''Not a good replacement in pop bumpers or behind backglasses (too much heat generated)'''<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|63<br />
|7.0<br />
|.63<br />
|3.0<br />
|1,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Used in early Williams solid state games like Flash.<br> Found in Williams games as late as High Speed; typically installed in series<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|67<br />
|13.5<br />
|.59<br />
|4.0<br />
|5,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Exclusively used as flash lamps on Gottlieb (Premier) games<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|73<br />
|14.0<br />
|.80<br />
|.30<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|86<br />
|6.3<br />
|.20<br />
|.40<br />
|20,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism;Gottlieb Victory ramp chaser lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|89<br />
|13.0<br />
|.58<br />
|6.00<br />
|750<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|159<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.34<br />
|5000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the #555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|194<br />
|14.0<br />
|.27<br />
|2.00<br />
|1,500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Whitewater Topper Lamps<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (instrument panel / dash lamps)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|199<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.25<br />
|32.00<br />
|1500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Alternate for 1156 lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|313<br />
|28<br />
|0.17<br />
|3.5<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|447<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|455<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.5<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Blinker<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|545<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.31<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|555<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|906<br />
|13.0<br />
|.69<br />
|6.00<br />
|1000<br />
|T-5 Wedge<br />
|Flash Lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1156<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.1<br />
|32.00<br />
|1,200<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed II beacon lamp and Creature from the Black Lagoon hologram projection lamp<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (reverse and front turn signal lamp in some vehicles)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1251<br />
|28.0<br />
|.23<br />
|3.00<br />
|2,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1683<br />
|28.0<br />
|1.02<br />
|32.00<br />
|500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed, F-14 Tomcat, and Rescue 911 beacon lamps; Fire! flame tube projection lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1847<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.38<br />
|5,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Dimmer, longer lasting version of 47 bulb; for areas where vibration is a factor (pop bumpers, etc.)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.<br />
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.<br />
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.<br />
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)<br />
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter<br />
<br />
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Sockets=<br />
<br />
Some later games have illuminated buttons for start and possibly other functions. These are typically located on the front of the cabinet. Instructions on replacing the lamp in those switches can be found [http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/installation_illuminated.htm here].<br />
<br />
=Fuse Table=<br />
<br />
<center><font size="4">'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</font></center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center><br />
<br />
{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 5A<br />
| BR, DC coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 10A<br />
| Main, BR, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|- align="left"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils-under PF<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Displays<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Service outlet<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Main line power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils, Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/16A<br />
| High Voltage on SDB<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Pop bumpers (Sys80/80A/80B), Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| Display power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main, coils, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 4A<br />
| 12v/5v power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB<br />
| PS, lamps, displays<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| 5A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 15A<br />
| General Illumination<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 20A<br />
| Switched Lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Display high voltage<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Power supply (displays)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB<br />
| Display driver board<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Aux board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Sound board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Power supply, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| 5v power (L7 games)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 20A<br />
| General illumination<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 1/10A<br />
| Cabinet, displays<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A <br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega &amp; New Stern'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| Display<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB<br />
| Display<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB<br />
| 12v PS F101<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Lamps, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB<br />
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Coils, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB<br />
| Switched lamps, line<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Line, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB<br />
| Coils main F108<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Power line, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T2.5A SB<br />
| Audio F501, F502<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Resistors=<br />
Resistors typically have a standard color coding scheme, (the exceptions are some power resistors which have the value and wattage inked on the resistor), which is used to identify the resistor's value and tolerance. The resistor's value and tolerance can be identified on this [http://samengstrom.com/24614782/en/read/4_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes?history=5107960,24614782 website] by clicking the appropriate color bands.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Game Software (ROMs)=<br />
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features. These home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case, it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]<br />
<br />
Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. DO NOT depend on the labels on the replacement roms "matching" a direction on your machine! ALWAYS check the orientation based on the notches. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement. <br />
<br />
Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.<br />
<br />
Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.<br />
<br />
=Counterfeit Integrated Circuits=<br />
<br />
[[File:MOS 6532.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bogus 6532 Chips]]<br />
As time passes, the need for through hole integrated circuits (IC chips) in current manufacturing decreases. Most consumable electronics today are using surface mount ICs. However, through hole ICs are what nearly 90% of all solid state pinball machines use on circuit boards. And as the need decreases, the price increases. Enter the counterfeiters. It may sound absurd, but there is a whole "underground" industry of counterfeit IC chips being created. How are they typically counterfeited? Old ICs are sourced, the top of the chip is either sanded or painted over with the correct identifiers as to what chip it is, and a new identifier is inked over. Some counterfeit chips are fairly obvious (see the pic to the left to view two sanded IC tops), while others are not so obvious.<br><br />
<br />
The moral to this is know who you are buying from. Avoid buying components from sellers who offer product at "too good to be true" prices. Some of these types of sellers peddle their product on eBay, and originate from the Far East. Keep in mind that even trusted sellers are not totally immune from counterfeit chips, but the really good sellers have a better grasp on reducing the sales of counterfeit chips from their inventory.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Tumbling Parts to Clean Them=<br />
[[File:TarnishedMetalPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A batch of playfield posts, etc from a Gottlieb Buckaroo.]]<br><br />
A quick way to shine a lot of metal parts is to use a "parts tumbler". (Technically, what is referred to in this section is a Vibrating Polisher - the name comes from a rock tumbler polisher, which can also be used but takes much longer.) Tumblers can typically be purchased at Bass Pro Shops as shooting enthusiasts use them to polish brass cartridges. One of the "old standards" is the [http://www.berrysmfg.com/product-i14546-c47-g8-b0-p0-400_Tumbler.aspx model 400 made by Berry's Manufacturing]. Crushed walnut shell media works well. It can be acquired at pet stores where it is sold as lizard bedding. For gentle less aggressive tumbling, use corn cob media. Additives such as "Flitz" or even a squirt of Novus 3 have been used to improve results. KIT Scratch Out also works very well for this application.<br />
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[[File:TumbledBuckARooPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Ah yes...nice and shiny. These parts were tumbled for about 24 hours in crushed walnut shell media.]]<br><br />
Tumbling approaches the point of diminishing returns after about 24 hours. Tumbling past 24 hours doesn't yield much improvement.<br />
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To remove the walnut shell media from flat-blade screws, a dental pick works well.<br><br />
To remove the media from Gottlieb "Speed Nuts" or Acorn Nuts, shake them inside a plastic container. The media falls right out.<br />
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<br />
=How to Properly File Switch Contacts=<br />
This is a stub<br />
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=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
:Check the tightness of all under playfield mechanisms. It's not uncommon for mechanisms (even with lock nuts) to loosen up over time. Do not overtighten and strip out any holes, just snug them in. If you find any loose holes, repair with glue and toothpicks. Once everything is tight again, mechanism action will be crisper.<br />
<br />
==Leveling the Game==<br />
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting the Game Pitch==<br />
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.<br />
<br />
==Balls==<br />
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.<br />
<br />
:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting flippers==<br />
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.<br />
<br />
:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.<br />
<br />
:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.<br />
<br />
:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.<br />
<br />
:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting drop targets==<br />
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well). Take caution in cleaning the drop target face. If a face is stamped with artwork, most chemicals (even mild ones) will remove the artwork.<br />
<br />
:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.<br />
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===Williams===<br />
:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.<br />
<br />
:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.<br />
<br />
:Later Williams' drop banks went to a two-spring design, one to pull the target down, and one coil spring to push the target forward on reset. This design started sometime around the Big Guns era. There's not a lot of adjustment needed in this type of target other than to clean them very well, and to ensure that the rubber grommets and the washer/screw combination are not too tight. They should be tightened just enough so the target will reset properly, but not so much that the target drops slowly. The weak points of this design are the ledge the drop targets rest on, and the studs used to hold the drop target reset coil stop. Originally, a small strip of tempered, spring steel was used for the ledge. This piece of spring steel was riveted to the drop target assy. frame. If it cracks or breaks, a single target or targets in the bank will not properly reset, as there is no ledge for them to rest in the up position. Williams realized this issue, and later versions of this type of drop target assy., somewhere around Earthshaker, were made with a replaceable ledge. Likewise, the coil stops were mounted with studs integrated into the drop target frame assy. These studs can snap off flush with the frame, allowing only one side or neither to hold the coil stop in place. <br />
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<br />
===Gottlieb===<br />
:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their original design. There are 2 discrete springs used; one to pull the drops in the proper direction to reset correctly, and another to provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.<br />
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:The 2-spring Gottlieb design changed during the system 80B era. This design change moved the reset coil from the outside of the drop target assy. to the underside, center of the assy. on small and single banks. Multiple reset coils were still used on banks larger than 4 targets. The benefit of the new design was less moving parts and a slightly smaller mounting footprint. However, the newer design eliminated the two spring design, and the smooth even stroke for the reset. While the targets still drop down smartly, on reset occasionally they will reset too high, or some targets will fail to reset, if the reset coil is not adjusted properly. Well beyond the time of the initial design change, some System 3 games use a combination of the old and new style drop target assys. <br />
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<br />
===Bally===<br />
:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.<br />
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:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place. Be sure any added shims don't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.<br />
<br />
:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.<br />
<br />
:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chiclet" style for over 25 years.<br />
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<br />
===Stern (Classic)===<br />
:Classic Stern drops, commonly referred to as "chiclets", were originally similar to the Bally "tombstone" style, and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the playfield, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.<br />
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:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.<br />
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==Tweaking a pop bumper==<br />
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.<br />
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:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.<br />
<br />
:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.<br />
<br />
:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.<br />
<br />
:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.<br />
<br />
==Tuning a spinner==<br />
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.<br />
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:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 2000 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.<br />
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:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.<br />
<br />
:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.<br />
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:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==<br />
:Most would ask why you would <b>want</b> to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.<br />
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:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.<br />
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:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.<br />
<br />
:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).<br />
<br />
:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.<br />
<br />
:Shaking a pinball is a part of the game, and possibly a greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.<br />
<br />
:Another trick is to ensure the playfield is attached solidly in some way to the cabinet. Older games have a metal clamping bracket in the cabinet to lock down the playfield, allowing better nudging action. Some older games use screws to attach the playfield to the cabinet. Metal hanger brackets used on newer machines take some of the nudging force away by allowing the playfield's suspension to absorb some of the force. A piece of cardboard folded and wedged at the playfield apron will help remove this factor and allowing more subtle shaking of the machine. This in turn will allow a tighter tilt if desired since the playfield will react to smaller nudges versus stock.<br />
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==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==<br />
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).<br />
<br />
:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.<br />
<br />
:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.<br />
<br />
:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking lane guides==<br />
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.<br />
<br />
:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.<br />
<br />
:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size smaller than needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.<br />
<br />
:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.<br />
<br />
:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.<br />
<br />
:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or has its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.<br />
<br />
==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==<br />
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.<br />
<br />
:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.<br />
<br />
==Plungers==<br />
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.<br />
<br />
:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.<br />
<br />
:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a weak spring to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.<br />
<br />
==Coil Sleeves==<br />
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.<br />
<br />
:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid. If a coil plunger is particularly mushroomed, replace it.<br />
<br />
==Connectors and Soldering==<br />
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems. A steel or brass wire bottle brush of the appropriate size works well to clean Jones plugs, and you can get a very fine nylon bottle brush to clean the female connectors. Don't use a metal brush to clean the female side unless you're sure to find and clean up any broken brush strands.<br />
<br />
:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Make sure any wire management straps are being used to support the weight of the harness going into the cabinet instead of depending on the header pin to support all that weight. Resoldering the header pins will fix the cracking and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.<br />
<br />
:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.<br />
<br />
==Slingshots==<br />
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back. Replace the sling switches with new switches or replace just the blade if they have been bent and mangled from incorrect adjustments. It's easier but more expensive to replace the entire switch vs. getting the blade parts (blade parts alone are <$1.00, new switches anywhere from $2.75-$6.00 depending on bracket installed/not and vendor).<br />
<br />
:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.<br />
<br />
:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is threefold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling). Thirdly, they prevent a ball from working its way under the rubber and getting trapped in the triangle under the sling plastic.<br />
<br />
:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. Grasp the actuator arm and rock it slightly at a right angle to its normal activation arc to check for wear. You will usually see some lateral slop in a sling mechanism; if it's excessive power will be lost on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or use a small nylon washer to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).<br />
<br />
==Standup/stationary Targets==<br />
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent so the target leans backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.<br />
<br />
:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is breached or gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes. Inspect the switch blades that make up the target and straighten any out that are mangled.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General&diff=11209General2014-02-09T07:30:42Z<p>Mr: /* Solder */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.<br />
<br />
=Safety=<br />
==Grounded 3-Prong Plug==<br />
[[File:3Prong Clipped.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Typical "clipped" 3rd prong on plug]]<br><br />
If the earth ground prong of a 3-prong plug is clipped or missing, replace the plug. Many of these plugs were clipped, because some older locations where games were placed only had two-prong outlets. The 3rd prong connects the games electrical circuits to "earth ground". In place, it reduces the risk of shock and protects the user. If you have neighboring machines and you feel a "tingle" when you touch the metal rails on both, one or both machines have a missing ground prong.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter set on continuity to ensure that the ground pin is connected to all the metal touchable parts of the game - the rails, the coin door, the legs bolts, etc. Investigate any missing wires and correct. Older games that came without a ground plug should have one added. Attach the green ground wire to the metal frame of the game transformer. Connect ground wires to all touchable metal parts on the game.<br />
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<br />
==Overfusing==<br />
[[File:BoltForAFuse.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The never blow, 1.21 GigaWatt fuse. Obviously, this is NOT recommended.]]<br><br />
Fuses are designed into your game's electrical circuitry to protect the circuits from damage should some component fail and begin to draw too much electrical current. They are designed to be the "weakest link" in the circuit. When too much current is drawn through the circuit, the fuse should be the first part of the circuit to fail.<br />
<br />
Although fuses sometimes fail due to old age or vibration, fuses usually fail for a reason. Locked on coils or flashers, direct shorts of power to ground, and many other reasons will cause a fuse to blow. If you replace a fuse, and it blows again, then you can be sure that something has gone awry.<br />
<br />
Always install fuses at the rating specified for your game. Installing a fuse rated higher than spec may cause some other part of the game circuitry to become the weakest link, and damage parts of the game that the fuse is designed to protect.<br />
<br />
Fuses are rated in terms of voltage and most importantly amps. Fuses are also designed as "fast blow" or "slow blow"/"time delayed blow". Typical sizes for pinball machines are 1.25 inches and 20mm.<br />
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<br />
=Parts to have on hand=<br />
'''All Machines'''<br />
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.<br />
<br />
'''Electromechanical Machines'''<br />
*#455 "Blinker" type bulbs for backglass highlights. Helps with heat in the head as well as they are usually about 50% duty cycle.<br />
*Replacement switch blades and high voltage contacts<br />
<br />
'''Solid State Machines'''<br />
<br />
*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a generic replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.<br />
*Replacement leaf blades and gold flashed contacts<br />
*TIP-102 Transistors<br />
*IN4004 Diodes<br />
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most versatile)<br />
<br />
=Tools of the Trade=<br />
<br />
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.<br />
<br />
==Mechanical Tools==<br />
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches<br />
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy<br />
*Nut driver set, which should include<br />
**1/4" nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts<br />
**5/16 nut driver - used for #6 nuts<br />
**11/32 nut driver - #8 nuts<br />
**3/8 nut driver - used for #10 nuts<br />
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts<br />
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. <br />
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.<br />
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.<br />
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.<br />
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.<br />
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.<br />
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench<br />
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts<br />
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench<br />
*Pliers<br />
*High-brightness LED flashlight<br />
*Magnetic pickup tool<br />
*Magnetic parts dish<br />
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)<br />
<br />
== Electrical Tools ==<br />
<br />
*A few alligator clip leads for testing<br />
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.<br />
*Side cutters<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.<br />
*For Connector Work<br />
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...<br />
**Connector pin pusher .093"<br />
**Connector pin pusher .062"<br />
<br />
'''Molex Crimper Styles'''<br />
<br />
[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]<br />
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. <br />
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<br />
'''Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.<br />
<br />
Portable:<br />
<br />
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.<br />
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)<br><br />
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)<br><br />
<br />
There is also a type of cordless battery powered iron referred to as "cold heat" - these do not work well for any pinball application, due to the lack of control over the quality of the solder joint produced. Avoid these for pinball work.<br />
<br />
Corded:<br />
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)<br><br />
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)<br><br />
*Weller W60P (temperature controlled)<br><br />
Station:<br />
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)<br />
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)<br />
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)<br />
<br />
'''Advanced Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
The move to lead-free manufacturing forced manufacturers to solder at a more tightly controlled, lower temperature. This requirement led to new irons that can deliver lots of heat, quickly. They have heat-up times of less than 10 seconds, and can solder larger joints than conventional irons. They have tips with built-in elements and temperature sensors. The tips show up on eBay, new and used. They are relatively expensive ($10 - $30) but last longer than regular tips. Expect to spend $200 - $400 to kit up with one of these (eBay). They are valuable if you do board work, as the fast heat delivery means the solder melts without overheating the pad. <br />
<br />
Metcal has been making these new irons for some time, so the systems are relatively common on eBay. <br />
<br />
<br />
Metcal MX-500P<br />
JBC - these irons really do heat up in 2 seconds (20W handpiece)<br />
Hakko FM series<br />
Weller WXT series<br />
<br />
Ersa, Goot, Pace<br />
<br />
==Desoldering Tools==<br />
<br />
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.<br />
<br />
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.<br />
<br />
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.<br />
<br />
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.<br />
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.<br />
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.<br />
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use<br />
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.<br />
<br />
==Rework Solder Stations==<br />
<br />
*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) <br><br />
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder extractor)<br />
*Aoyue 2703A+ SMD repair & rework. Has soldering iron w/vacuum suction, desoldering gun, and hot air gun.<br />
<br />
==EM Tools==<br />
[[file:SwitchTools.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Leaf switch tools|1) Ignition points file for Tungsten contacts <br>2) Flexstone <br>3) Vendor supplied leaf switch adjustment tool <br>4) Homemade switch adjustment tool <br>5) Push-pull spring tool]]<br><br><br />
*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.<br />
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.<br />
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Cleaning & Restoration Supplies==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Product<br />
!Uses<br />
!Where to get<br />
<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 1<br />
|Light cleaning of plastics and playfield. Dust/dirt removal<br />
|grocery store?<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 2<br />
|General cleaning and polishing of plastics and playfield.<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 3<br />
|Cleaning for metal parts only<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Millwax<br />
|Not recommended for most playfields, except when?<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|90% isopropyl alcohol<br />
|Cleaning PCB boards. Evaporates quickly.<br />
|drug store (CVS, etc)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Deoxit contact cleaner<br />
|electrical contact deoxidizer<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Carnauba wax<br />
|playfield waxing<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Simple green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning, degreaser<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Mean green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Bleche white<br />
|wire assembly<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Krylon Triple Thick<br />
|backglass sealant<br />
|pinrestore.com, bigdaddyenterprises.com<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Lubrication==<br />
In nearly every instance, lubrication should not be used. The exceptions are metal on metal mechanical points (stepper unit pivot points, stepper unit wipers, and the pivot points of '''very few''' mechanical assys.). Although Williams stated to use graphite powder for lubrication on coil plungers where aluminum or brass coil sleeves were used, it is best to just replace the metal coil sleeves with new nylon sleeves ('''Note:''' some brass coil sleeves are integral to the coil's winding, and are not removeable). A general rule of thumb is where metal makes contact with plastic, lubrication is not needed. However, if lubrication is necessary, Super Lube Teflon gel is a very good product to use. However, it should be used very sparingly. When in doubt, under lubrication is better than over lubrication.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:WD-40 01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WD-40 needs no introduction]]<br><br><br><br />
[[File:WD-40 Coin Door.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Removal of Coin Door Sticker Residue with WD-40]]<br><br><br><br />
'''In no instance should WD-40 be used as a lubricant!''' WD-40 is a great product, but should used as intended. It can be used for breaking apart seized screws, bolts, or associated mechanisms, but should thoroughly be cleaned off once a unit has been disassembled.<br><br />
<br />
There is one other good use for WD-40 regarding pinball machines. Coin door stickers, operator stickers on aprons, and game permit stickers all tend to make their way onto pinball machines. WD-40 is a very good product which can be used to remove sticker residue.<br />
It also makes an excellent hand cleaner.<br />
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<br />
==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==<br />
<font color=red>In work</font><br />
<br />
=Preparing Printed Circuit Cards (PCBs) for Shipping or Storage=<br />
<br />
[[Image:PCBWrappedInFoilResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Williams DMD Controller prepared for shipment, wrapped in aluminum foil. This method is a reasonable alternative when an ESD safe bag isn't available.]]<br><br />
Pinball boards (PCBs) are sensitive to Electro-Static Discharge (ESD). Static electricity that builds up in your body or via packaging material that rubs together can "shock" the sensitive components on a PCB, damaging them in doing so.<br />
<br />
Board repair techs go through great pains to ground themselves while working on PCBs.<br />
<br />
If you need to store or to ship a PCB, enclose it in an ESD safe bag. If a bag isn't available, wrap the board in aluminum foil. Both will protect the board from ESD.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=How to Twist Wires Together Neatly=<br />
Easy as Pie...<br />
#Chuck both wires in a slow speed drill<br />
#Hold other end firmly<br />
#Engage, and watch with amazement as the wires neatly twist around each-other.<br />
As you can see from the results below, this old technique yields excellent results.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="How to neatly twist two (or more) wires together"><br />
File:WireWindingStart.jpg|<center>Chuck the wires</center><br />
File:WireWindingEnd.jpg|<center>End result</center><br />
File:WireWindingDetail.jpg|<center>End result detail. Nice...</center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Soldering=<br />
<br />
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering. <br />
<br />
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!<br />
<br />
==Equipment and Supplies==<br />
<br />
===The basic soldering iron===<br />
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. One example is the Weller WESD-51.<br />
<br />
===Tip Cleaner===<br />
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.<br />
<br />
===Solder===<br />
There are three things that matter with solder. <br />
<br />
The diameter. In pinball, .031" is a good general purpose size. Thicker, and you'll be blobbing everywhere except on the biggest joints. Thinner, and it takes a lot of solder to feed a joint.<br />
<br />
The alloy, typically tin-lead, expressed as something like 63/37, which means 63% tin and 37% lead. For pinball, 63/37 is the best overall alloy. The common 60/40 is a shade cheaper, but isn't as good. In particular, it goes through a pasty mode before it hardens. If it is moved while pasty, you can get a bad joint. You can use 60/40, but 63/37 is more reliable. You won't like lead-free solder, as it has to be hotter and does not flow as well. Plus, even good joints look frosty. <br />
<br />
The flux, which might be rosin, no-clean or water soluble. You don't want water soluble, as it can leave an acid residue if not washed. No clean is nice, as it doesn't leave blobs of flux hanging on a joint. Rosin, the classic flux, is aggressive and effective, but leaves joints dirty and should be cleaned with alcohol when used on boards. <br />
<br />
A fourth parameter is the number of solder cores, typically 50 - 66. Doesn't matter for pinball, but a higher core count should be a little easier to use. <br />
<br />
So you will want one of these two types:<br />
- Rosin-core .031 63/37 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-0026). This is super easy to use and will get you the best joints (AKA Kester 44)<br />
- No-clean .031 6337 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-8801). Easy to use, no cleaning needed. <br />
<br />
<br />
If you want to get solder locally, Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. <br />
<br />
As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. However, the US still has few restrictions on the use and sale of leaded solder. <br />
<br />
Here is one supplier of Kester 245 "no-clean" solder (with an obsolete 50 core count): [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life] <br />
<br />
A useful supplier is MCM Electronics. They carry a good range of 63/37 solders, and also sell smaller spools. MCM also has good pinball cabinet speakers, and often has free shipping for orders over $50.<br />
[http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?cataf=&view=list&w=solder+63%2F37&x=0&y=0 MCM Electronics 63/37 Solders]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Under no circumstances should Acid-core (plumbing) solder be used anywhere on a pinball machine.'''<br />
<br />
===Optional Equipment===<br />
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.<br />
<br />
==Soldering wires==<br />
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything. <br />
<br />
Here are the simple steps:<br />
<br />
#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.<br />
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.<br />
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.<br />
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool. <br />
<br />
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts through the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or "hemo-stats" are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, you may have created what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.<br />
<br />
'''Things to Know'''<br />
<br />
*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and the solder joint will be unreliable.<br />
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. Once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.<br />
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that threading the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.<br />
<br />
== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==<br />
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.<br><br />
<br />
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are delicate and can become damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied for too long, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult. It is better to use more heat for less time than less heat for more time.<br><br />
<br />
When the replacement of a chip is necessary, it is recommended to use a chip socket (in most all instances - there are some exceptions), versus soldering a replacement chip directly onto the circuit board. The reasoning is two-fold:<br />
<br />
# Adding a chip socket reduces the amount of heat applied to a circuit board in the future should the same chip fail.<br />
# If the same chip does fail, replacement of the chip will be much easier.<br />
<br />
When soldering a chip socket in place, skipping from side to side for subsequent joints or skipping every other pin as you solder can help alleviate the risk of heating up a small part of the board, causing lifted pads and traces. A good solderer with the proper equipment can solder a 40 pin chip socket into place on a PCB in about 2 minutes.<br><br />
<br />
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Socket check work.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Testing for (lack of) continuity between chip socket positions]]<br><br />
After a chip socket has been soldered onto a board, it is equally a good practice to check for continuity between the socket pin and the adjoining circuitry, and discontinuity between adjacent socket positions. If there isn't continuity between the chip socket and its associated circuits, check / inspect the work performed. Likewise, if there is continuity between neighboring chip socket positions, check for excess solder or foreign material creating a conductive bridge between the two.<br><br />
<br />
'''Note:''' in some cases, a PCB has traces or pads intentionally tied together between adjacent chip sockets. Consult the schematics of the particular board being worked on to verify if this is the case, when two sockets are determined to have continuity.<br />
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<br />
=== Bending Discrete Through-hole Components ===<br />
[[File:BendingThroughHoleComponents.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to bend through-hole components using a drop target.]]<br><br />
An easy way to bend resistors, capacitors, etc to length when replacing them is to use a popsicle stick or an old drop target, as pictured at left. Bend the leads around the target. This works well for many older game systems like Bally -17/-35, Williams, etc.<br />
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<br />
===Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"===<br />
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.<br />
<br />
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.<br />
<br />
[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]]<br><br />
'''Procedure''':<br><br />
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".<br><br />
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough.<br><br />
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.<br><br />
#Solder the first side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place.<br><br />
#All done!<br />
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<br />
===Using an old Socket to Align SIPs and Headers===<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionSIPs.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Using a socket to align SIP (Single Inline Package) machine pin socket strips.]]<br><br />
Using an old socket to position two SIPs perfectly is easy, as shown in the picture at left.<br />
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<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionHeaders.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to align header pins across two header strips.]]<br><br />
Likewise, an old socket can be used to position headers perfectly in line when more than one header strip is used/needed.<br />
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<br />
=Desoldering=<br />
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each<br />
<br />
Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts<br />
<br />
=DIP (Dual In-line Package) Pin Numbering Convention=<br />
[[File:Dip14pins.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DIP 14 pin]]<br>The diagram at left shows standard pin numbering for integrated circuits. Pin #1 is always located at the chips "dot" or if not dot, immediately to the left of the chips "notch". The pin "legs" are then numbered sequentially around the chip counter-clockwise. This convention is observed for DIP packages of all sizes. <br />
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<br />
=Testing an integrated circuit=<br />
<br />
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.<br />
<br />
This test works for many 74XX series ICs.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]<br />
'''Procedure''':<br />
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test. <br />
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".<br />
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if testing multiple chips on the same board.<br />
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
'''Interpreting the results:'''<br />
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.<br><br />
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.<br><br />
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.<br><br />
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.<br />
*Comparing your results against results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
Readings outside of this range may indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.<br />
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<br />
=Testing fuses=<br />
<br />
[[File:BuzzingAFuseTheWrongWay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An example of why you MUST remove a fuse to "buzz" it. This '''empty''' fuse holder is for the GI circuit in a Williams game. The meter is showing continuity with no fuse present. The meter is finding a path back through the transformer secondary.]]<br><br />
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.<br />
<br />
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".<br />
<br />
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading, as shown in the picture at left. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.<br />
<br />
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job of being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.<br />
<br />
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.<br />
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<br />
=Testing a Bridge Rectifier=<br />
<br />
''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.''<br />
<br />
[[File:TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Four Connections to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.]]<br><br />
The picture at left illustrates the 4 readings to be taken when testing a bridge rectifier.<br />
<br />
'''Procedure:'''<br />
<br />
#Place your DMM into "diode test". <br />
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge. <br />
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes). <br />
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge <br />
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen. <br />
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<br />
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit. This part of the bridge is good.]]<br> <br />
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc). <br />
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<br />
=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red><need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on FETs></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on SCRs></font><br><br />
<br />
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used except for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. <br />
<br />
When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own. <br />
<br />
<br />
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)<br />
<br />
[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:<br />
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right<br />
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC<br />
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE<br />
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)<br />
<br />
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.<br />
<br />
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.<br><br />
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''.<br><br />
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).<br><br />
'''Note: A transistor can "test" good and still be bad!!'''<br><br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the red lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the black lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-A13''' transistor.<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-U45''' transistor (or '''NDS-U45''' or '''CEN-U45''' which are equivalents).<br />
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
=Testing a coil=<br />
<br />
If a drive transistor shorts, providing an unintended path to ground for power at a solenoid, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil winding gets hot enough, it will burn through the protective coating on the winding, shorting adjacently wound wires and reducing the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the failed driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged immediately after power on.<br />
<br />
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is wise to check each coil's resistance '''*before*''' switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it! Even examining each coil in the game for burned coil wrappers may help identify a shorted coil.<br />
<br />
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power winding and a hold winding. These are easily identified as they have three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.<br />
<br />
==Testing resistance==<br />
To test a coil's resistance:<br />
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs. <br />
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. Note: Some flipper coils will read less than 2 ohms but still be fine.<br />
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (i.e. the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or drive transistor issue. <br />
<br />
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before powering the game on again.<br />
<br />
==Testing for coil power==<br />
With the machine powered on:<br />
* set your DMM to DC<br />
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one). <br />
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-75v.<br />
<br />
Please note that some games have a coin door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids.<br />
<br />
==Testing the coil diode==<br />
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.<br />
<br />
To test a coil diode:<br />
<br />
* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.<br />
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.<br />
* Place the black lead on the banded side.<br />
* Place the red lead on the non-banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.<br />
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'<br />
<br />
==Testing the driver transistors==<br />
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=Basic Sound Troubleshooting=<br />
Regardless of the manufacturer, there are some simple steps to follow if no sound is present. Below are the steps from simplest to more complicated.<br />
<br />
# Make sure the speaker is properly connected. If female crimp spade connectors are used on the wiring connecting to the speaker terminals, it is not uncommon for the connectors to come loose or even break. If the leads to the speakers are soldered onto the speaker terminals, make certain the wires are soldered well by gently tugging on the wires.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the speaker is good. If no sound is coming out of the speaker, not even a hum when the volume pot is turned up, check to see if the speaker is not blown. For what it is worth, even a speaker with a ripped cone can put out some sound in most cases. The sound may be distorted, but it should be present. There are two ways to test a speaker. The safest way is to hook an ohmmeter up to the two speaker leads, and see if the resistance equals the impedance of the speaker. Most, if not all speakers in pinball machines are either 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The other method for testing a speaker is to hook a 9v battery up to the speaker leads. Prior to hooking up a battery, it is important to disconnect the speaker outputs on the sound board. This will isolate the speaker from the sound board completely. Once the battery is hooked up, the speaker cone should either pull in or flex out, depending on how the battery's polarity was connected to the speaker. '''Do not allow the battery to be connected to the speaker for very long'''.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume potentiometer (pot) is properly connected, if one is used (newer machines like WMS WPC, Stern / Sega White Star, and stern SAM systems use digital potentiometers). If turning the volume pot up does not result in any sound, turn the pot the opposite direction. If no mechanical pot is used, skip the next step.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume pot is good. Using an ohmmeter. connect the leads to the volume pot, and turn the pot back in forth. When the pot is turned completely one way, it should read close to zero ohms (full volume). When turned the opposite direction, the reading should be close to the value of what the pot's rating (pots in pinball machines roughly range from 5 kohms to 25 kohms depending on the manufacturer). Pots sometime develop "dead spots". When the pot is turned from its lowest setting (highest resistance value) to its highest setting (0 ohm resistance), the resistance value should slowly decrease. While turning the pot, if the value spikes to 0 and resumes to a higher value than 0, the pot has a dead spot. TV tuner cleaner can be used to sometimes rectify this problem. Even exercising the pot back and forth can resolve dead spots in a pinch.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the output connections on the sound board are good. If the sound board in question has header pins on the output to the speaker / volume pot, check for cracked header joints. Short of a visual inspection with the board removed from the game, try wiggling the output connector. This does not definitely prove that there are cracked header joints, but it shows that either the headers or the harness connector is at fault. Additionally, check for bad connectors inside the speaker output housing connection. If the sound board in question uses edge finger connections, check the edge connector inside the housing of the output to the speaker. In either case, if the output harness uses an insulation displacement connector (IDC), check to make sure the wires are securely seated inside the connector of the housing.<br><br><br />
#In some but not all instances, sound boards use a 5-legged amplifier with a heat sink attached. Sound boards with this type of amp may have cracked solder joints at the legs of the amp. If gently wiggling the amps heat sink makes sound cut in and out, suspect cracked solder joints on the legs of the amp.<br><br />
<br />
Remaining issues are typically sound board specific. Please review the appropriate repair pages regarding the sound board in question.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=<br />
Need to cover...<br><br />
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)<br><br />
SOIC to DIP adapters<br><br />
<br />
==Resistor Networks==<br />
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations"><br />
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Bussed Resistor Network</b></center><br />
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Isolated Resistor Network</b></center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.<br />
<br />
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1.<br><br />
<font color=Red><need a picture of this></font><br />
<br />
=The Switch Matrix=<br />
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.<br />
<br />
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required. <br />
<br />
<u>'''How a switch matrix works'''</u><br />
<br />
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.<br />
<br />
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse). <br />
<br />
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.<br><br />
<br />
<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Switch Matrix IN WORK=<br />
<youtube v="Bo3wVuyJtXA" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<youtube v="rNx2D6KeAxQ" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:NormalSwitchMatrixOperation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Normal Switch Matrix Operation]]<br />
[[Image:ShortedDiodeFailureInSwitchMatrix.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Implications of a Shorted Diode in the Switch Matrix]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=General Illumination=<br />
<br />
General Illumination is lighting that switches on (generally) when game power is turned on. Some general illumination circuits are switched on by an electromechanical relay (EM games, Williams System 11, and all eras of solid state Gottlieb games for instance). Some GI circuits are controlled by the MPU (WPC games). General illumination lamps are essentially the same as Christmas tree lights. They come on when power is applied.<br />
<br />
[[File:SST-GIModification.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Underside of Starship Troopers playfield showing mod to top lane guide GI lamp installation.]]<br><br><br />
Some GI sockets are very difficult to get to, like in Sega's Starship Troopers. One way to ease the job is to get at the lamps from under the playfield where possible. This requires a small modification to your game and some short wood screws. In the picture at left, the OEM staples have been removed and replaced with a standard pinball target screw. One screw is really enough since the lamp isn't going anywhere. To replace a lamp, simply remove the screw, pull the socket, replace the lamp, and reinstall. Make certain the length of the screw will not protrude through the top of the playfield. Those who prefer the look of LEDs should consider using LEDs in these tough to reach places.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=The Lamp Matrix=<br />
<br />
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.<br />
<br />
All EM's control lamps with switches on relay stacks, or wipers on disc units.<br />
<br />
'''How the lamp matrix works'''<br />
<br />
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.<br />
<br />
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.<br />
<br />
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''<br />
<br />
#Fewer wires<br />
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp matrix problems'''<br />
<br />
#Single lamp out<br />
#Single lamp locked on<br />
#multiple lamps in a row<br />
#multiple lamps in a column<br />
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not<br />
<br />
'''Typical causes'''<br />
<br />
#Wiring shorts<br />
#Shorted diode(s)<br />
<br />
=How coils, flashers, and motors are turned on=<br />
<br />
In most machines, every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at all coil lugs. Exceptions are...<br><br />
*Williams System 11 and Data East/Sega games which have an A/C (side) select relay that switches power between two banks...a bank of coils and a bank of flashers.<br />
*Flipper coils on Data East games that use the Solid State Flipper Board. The SSFB provides power to the coils only after the cabinet flipper button switch is closed.<br />
<br />
[[File:CoilPowerDiagram.jpg|400px|left|thumb|A simple representation of how power is always present at all coil lugs, waiting to "find ground" via a switch. Solid state pinball machines use transistors to "switch" power to ground (a TIP-102 transistor for instance)]]<br><br />
If you set your DMM to DC voltage, place the black lead of your DMM on game ground such as the ground braid or the side rail, and place the red lead of your DMM on either coil lug, you should read nominal coil voltage (exactly what voltage level depends on the game system). Your DMM reads the voltage at both/all coil lugs because, when the coil is off, there is no current through the coil to cause a voltage drop. Power present at one coil lug is guaranteed to be present at the other coil lug unless the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is disconnected from the lug.<br />
<br />
Referencing the diagram at left, placing the red probe of your DMM at any point labeled "P", and the black lead of your DMM on game ground (labeled "G"), should read nominal coil voltage.<br />
<br />
All that is required for the coil to "fire" is for the ground lug of the coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor, or by closing a switch that creates a path to ground. <br />
<br />
Note that this also a good example of how to test a coil, and the power circuit. Grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly. If the coil does not fire, then either the coil is not receiving power, or the coil winding has a break in it, or the coil winding is not attached securely to the coil's solder tab(s).<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Flippers=<br />
<br />
;How does a flipper work?<br />
:Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the coil to overheat or the fuse to blow. Note that it takes less power to hold the flipper up than it does to pull the plunger in for the initial flip due to the effect the metal plunger has on what is initially an air-core coil.<br />
<br />
;High Voltage flipper operation<br />
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.<br />
<br />
:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.<br />
<br />
:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.<br />
<br />
:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.<br />
<br />
;Solid State Flipper operation<br />
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.<br />
<br />
:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.<br />
<br />
:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.<br />
<br />
;Summary of EOS switch function for various types of games<br />
*EM: EOS switch shorts hold winding until flipper is actuated. This allows the power coil to provide full strength during the flipper movement but switch over to the lower power hold winding at the end of movement. In reality, both the power and hold coils are in series during hold operation.<br />
*Data East: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40 ms) switch-over from 50V to 8V for hold operation. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. See Maverick game manual page 90 for theory of operation. <br />
*Stern: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40ms) switchover to 1ms pulses every 12ms to hold the coil up. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. For a description of Stern flipper operation, see [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/BATMAN_SGM/BATMAN_SEC5_CHP2.pdf Stern Batman TDK Manual Section 5 Chapter 2 Page 106]<br />
*Williams: Fliptronic board provides CPU-controlled coil drivers for the flippers. When EOS switch closes power is switched to the hold winding. Williams WPC flipper problems are discussed in the [[Williams_WPC#Flipper_Problems]] section.<br />
<br />
==Weak Flippers - What to check==<br />
[[File:CoilSleeveWithInternalRingResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn coil sleeve, with an internal "ring" worn into it. This ring prevented the plunger from being fully pulled in.]]<br><br />
There are many problems that can lead to weak flippers. Some flipper problems are unique to EM games, but there are many problems common to both EM and SS games.<br />
Problems can be either electrical or mechanical. Below is a list of items to check. General things to note are whether both flippers are weak or just one, if the flipper won't flip will it stay up if the bat is manually moved to the up position, and does the flipper bat move easily when moved by hand. The following list details problems that can cause weak flippers.<br />
<br />
#End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch dirty. <br>The power winding of a flipper coil is only a few ohms of resistance so it doesn't take too much added resistance in the EOS switch to degrade the flipper power. If an EOS switch is not making contact at all the flipper will likely not flip, but will hold if you manually actuate the flipper.<br />
#Flipper switch dirty. <br>For EM games, flipper power is provided through the flipper switch. Added resistance of a fouled switch can weaken flippers.<br />
#Coil sleeve worn or dirty. <br>Cleaning the coil plunger and sleeve will improve flipper performance. Some older games had metal sleeves that should be replaced with modern nylon sleeves. Even when wear can not be seen, replacing the coil sleeve often helps.<br />
#Coil stop or plunger mushroomed. <br>Coils operate best when there is a flat surface between the plunger end and the coil stop. A mushroomed coil stop or plunger can cause the flipper to buzz when held up.<br />
#Flipper spring too tight. <br>This can also result in noisy flippers when held up. The flipper spring should be adjusted so that it can barely return the flippers to their resting postion when the playfield is up.<br />
#Flipper bushing binding. <br>A worn flipper bushing or a misadjusted flipper bat can result in binding that impedes flipper movement. Make sure there is a small amount of vertical play in the flipper to prevent binding.<br />
#Hogged out fiber link. <br>Over time the holes in the flipper links can become elongated. The play in the flipper movement results in wasted coil movement and thus reduced flipper strength.<br />
#Power issues. <br>Make sure you are getting full voltage at the flipper coil. Usually a power problem will cause both flippers to be weak.<br />
#Drive transistor bad (SS only) <br>In solid state games it is possible to have a transistor that is bad but still somewhat operational. Usually the bad transistor will get noticeably hotter than other similar transistors.<br />
#Power Winding bad. <br>Coil failures are rare, but check from broken solder connections and broken coil wires at the coil lugs.<br />
<br />
=Changing Batteries=<br />
Solid state machines have batteries to save high score and setting information when the machine is powered off. Usually these are three AA batteries mounted on the CPU board. They should be changed annually to prevent leakage that will damage the CPU board.<br />
<br />
Batteries can be changed with the machine powered on so that settings are maintained. Some people recommend changing one battery at a time, but this is only to help ensure that the new batteries are installed with the correct polarity.<br />
<br />
The best thing you can do for your game is to install a remote battery holder, which moves the batteries completely off of the CPU board. See the specific game system section for instructions to perform this simple modification.<br />
<br />
=Coil Chart=<br />
<br />
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at<br />
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html<br />
<br />
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Chart=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Voltage (V)<br />
!Current(A)<br />
!Candle Power<br />
!Life (hours)<br />
!Base<br />
!Typical Use<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|44<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|47<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|55<br />
|7.0<br />
|.41<br />
|2.00<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47<br> '''Not a good replacement in pop bumpers or behind backglasses (too much heat generated)'''<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|63<br />
|7.0<br />
|.63<br />
|3.0<br />
|1,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Used in early Williams solid state games like Flash.<br> Found in Williams games as late as High Speed; typically installed in series<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|67<br />
|13.5<br />
|.59<br />
|4.0<br />
|5,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Exclusively used as flash lamps on Gottlieb (Premier) games<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|73<br />
|14.0<br />
|.80<br />
|.30<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|86<br />
|6.3<br />
|.20<br />
|.40<br />
|20,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism;Gottlieb Victory ramp chaser lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|89<br />
|13.0<br />
|.58<br />
|6.00<br />
|750<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|159<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.34<br />
|5000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the #555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|194<br />
|14.0<br />
|.27<br />
|2.00<br />
|1,500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Whitewater Topper Lamps<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (instrument panel / dash lamps)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|199<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.25<br />
|32.00<br />
|1500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Alternate for 1156 lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|313<br />
|28<br />
|0.17<br />
|3.5<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|447<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|455<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.5<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Blinker<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|545<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.31<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|555<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|906<br />
|13.0<br />
|.69<br />
|6.00<br />
|1000<br />
|T-5 Wedge<br />
|Flash Lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1156<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.1<br />
|32.00<br />
|1,200<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed II beacon lamp and Creature from the Black Lagoon hologram projection lamp<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (reverse and front turn signal lamp in some vehicles)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1251<br />
|28.0<br />
|.23<br />
|3.00<br />
|2,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1683<br />
|28.0<br />
|1.02<br />
|32.00<br />
|500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed, F-14 Tomcat, and Rescue 911 beacon lamps; Fire! flame tube projection lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1847<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.38<br />
|5,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Dimmer, longer lasting version of 47 bulb; for areas where vibration is a factor (pop bumpers, etc.)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.<br />
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.<br />
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.<br />
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)<br />
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter<br />
<br />
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Sockets=<br />
<br />
Some later games have illuminated buttons for start and possibly other functions. These are typically located on the front of the cabinet. Instructions on replacing the lamp in those switches can be found [http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/installation_illuminated.htm here].<br />
<br />
=Fuse Table=<br />
<br />
<center><font size="4">'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</font></center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center><br />
<br />
{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 5A<br />
| BR, DC coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 10A<br />
| Main, BR, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|- align="left"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils-under PF<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Displays<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Service outlet<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Main line power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils, Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/16A<br />
| High Voltage on SDB<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Pop bumpers (Sys80/80A/80B), Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| Display power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main, coils, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 4A<br />
| 12v/5v power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB<br />
| PS, lamps, displays<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| 5A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 15A<br />
| General Illumination<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 20A<br />
| Switched Lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Display high voltage<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Power supply (displays)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB<br />
| Display driver board<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Aux board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Sound board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Power supply, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| 5v power (L7 games)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 20A<br />
| General illumination<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 1/10A<br />
| Cabinet, displays<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A <br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega &amp; New Stern'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| Display<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB<br />
| Display<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB<br />
| 12v PS F101<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Lamps, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB<br />
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Coils, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB<br />
| Switched lamps, line<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Line, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB<br />
| Coils main F108<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Power line, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T2.5A SB<br />
| Audio F501, F502<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Resistors=<br />
Resistors typically have a standard color coding scheme, (the exceptions are some power resistors which have the value and wattage inked on the resistor), which is used to identify the resistor's value and tolerance. The resistor's value and tolerance can be identified on this [http://samengstrom.com/24614782/en/read/4_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes?history=5107960,24614782 website] by clicking the appropriate color bands.<br />
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<br />
=Game Software (ROMs)=<br />
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features. These home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case, it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]<br />
<br />
Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. DO NOT depend on the labels on the replacement roms "matching" a direction on your machine! ALWAYS check the orientation based on the notches. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement. <br />
<br />
Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.<br />
<br />
Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.<br />
<br />
=Counterfeit Integrated Circuits=<br />
<br />
[[File:MOS 6532.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bogus 6532 Chips]]<br />
As time passes, the need for through hole integrated circuits (IC chips) in current manufacturing decreases. Most consumable electronics today are using surface mount ICs. However, through hole ICs are what nearly 90% of all solid state pinball machines use on circuit boards. And as the need decreases, the price increases. Enter the counterfeiters. It may sound absurd, but there is a whole "underground" industry of counterfeit IC chips being created. How are they typically counterfeited? Old ICs are sourced, the top of the chip is either sanded or painted over with the correct identifiers as to what chip it is, and a new identifier is inked over. Some counterfeit chips are fairly obvious (see the pic to the left to view two sanded IC tops), while others are not so obvious.<br><br />
<br />
The moral to this is know who you are buying from. Avoid buying components from sellers who offer product at "too good to be true" prices. Some of these types of sellers peddle their product on eBay, and originate from the Far East. Keep in mind that even trusted sellers are not totally immune from counterfeit chips, but the really good sellers have a better grasp on reducing the sales of counterfeit chips from their inventory.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Tumbling Parts to Clean Them=<br />
[[File:TarnishedMetalPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A batch of playfield posts, etc from a Gottlieb Buckaroo.]]<br><br />
A quick way to shine a lot of metal parts is to use a "parts tumbler". (Technically, what is referred to in this section is a Vibrating Polisher - the name comes from a rock tumbler polisher, which can also be used but takes much longer.) Tumblers can typically be purchased at Bass Pro Shops as shooting enthusiasts use them to polish brass cartridges. One of the "old standards" is the [http://www.berrysmfg.com/product-i14546-c47-g8-b0-p0-400_Tumbler.aspx model 400 made by Berry's Manufacturing]. Crushed walnut shell media works well. It can be acquired at pet stores where it is sold as lizard bedding. For gentle less aggressive tumbling, use corn cob media. Additives such as "Flitz" or even a squirt of Novus 3 have been used to improve results. KIT Scratch Out also works very well for this application.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:TumbledBuckARooPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Ah yes...nice and shiny. These parts were tumbled for about 24 hours in crushed walnut shell media.]]<br><br />
Tumbling approaches the point of diminishing returns after about 24 hours. Tumbling past 24 hours doesn't yield much improvement.<br />
<br />
To remove the walnut shell media from flat-blade screws, a dental pick works well.<br><br />
To remove the media from Gottlieb "Speed Nuts" or Acorn Nuts, shake them inside a plastic container. The media falls right out.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=How to Properly File Switch Contacts=<br />
This is a stub<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
:Check the tightness of all under playfield mechanisms. It's not uncommon for mechanisms (even with lock nuts) to loosen up over time. Do not overtighten and strip out any holes, just snug them in. If you find any loose holes, repair with glue and toothpicks. Once everything is tight again, mechanism action will be crisper.<br />
<br />
==Leveling the Game==<br />
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting the Game Pitch==<br />
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.<br />
<br />
==Balls==<br />
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.<br />
<br />
:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting flippers==<br />
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.<br />
<br />
:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.<br />
<br />
:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.<br />
<br />
:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.<br />
<br />
:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting drop targets==<br />
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well). Take caution in cleaning the drop target face. If a face is stamped with artwork, most chemicals (even mild ones) will remove the artwork.<br />
<br />
:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.<br />
<br />
===Williams===<br />
:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.<br />
<br />
:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.<br />
<br />
:Later Williams' drop banks went to a two-spring design, one to pull the target down, and one coil spring to push the target forward on reset. This design started sometime around the Big Guns era. There's not a lot of adjustment needed in this type of target other than to clean them very well, and to ensure that the rubber grommets and the washer/screw combination are not too tight. They should be tightened just enough so the target will reset properly, but not so much that the target drops slowly. The weak points of this design are the ledge the drop targets rest on, and the studs used to hold the drop target reset coil stop. Originally, a small strip of tempered, spring steel was used for the ledge. This piece of spring steel was riveted to the drop target assy. frame. If it cracks or breaks, a single target or targets in the bank will not properly reset, as there is no ledge for them to rest in the up position. Williams realized this issue, and later versions of this type of drop target assy., somewhere around Earthshaker, were made with a replaceable ledge. Likewise, the coil stops were mounted with studs integrated into the drop target frame assy. These studs can snap off flush with the frame, allowing only one side or neither to hold the coil stop in place. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Gottlieb===<br />
:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their original design. There are 2 discrete springs used; one to pull the drops in the proper direction to reset correctly, and another to provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.<br />
<br />
:The 2-spring Gottlieb design changed during the system 80B era. This design change moved the reset coil from the outside of the drop target assy. to the underside, center of the assy. on small and single banks. Multiple reset coils were still used on banks larger than 4 targets. The benefit of the new design was less moving parts and a slightly smaller mounting footprint. However, the newer design eliminated the two spring design, and the smooth even stroke for the reset. While the targets still drop down smartly, on reset occasionally they will reset too high, or some targets will fail to reset, if the reset coil is not adjusted properly. Well beyond the time of the initial design change, some System 3 games use a combination of the old and new style drop target assys. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Bally===<br />
:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.<br />
<br />
:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place. Be sure any added shims don't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.<br />
<br />
:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.<br />
<br />
:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chiclet" style for over 25 years.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Stern (Classic)===<br />
:Classic Stern drops, commonly referred to as "chiclets", were originally similar to the Bally "tombstone" style, and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the playfield, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.<br />
<br />
:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking a pop bumper==<br />
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.<br />
<br />
:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.<br />
<br />
:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.<br />
<br />
:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.<br />
<br />
==Tuning a spinner==<br />
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.<br />
<br />
:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 2000 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.<br />
<br />
:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.<br />
<br />
:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.<br />
<br />
:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==<br />
:Most would ask why you would <b>want</b> to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.<br />
<br />
:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.<br />
<br />
:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.<br />
<br />
:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).<br />
<br />
:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.<br />
<br />
:Shaking a pinball is a part of the game, and possibly a greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.<br />
<br />
:Another trick is to ensure the playfield is attached solidly in some way to the cabinet. Older games have a metal clamping bracket in the cabinet to lock down the playfield, allowing better nudging action. Some older games use screws to attach the playfield to the cabinet. Metal hanger brackets used on newer machines take some of the nudging force away by allowing the playfield's suspension to absorb some of the force. A piece of cardboard folded and wedged at the playfield apron will help remove this factor and allowing more subtle shaking of the machine. This in turn will allow a tighter tilt if desired since the playfield will react to smaller nudges versus stock.<br />
<br />
==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==<br />
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).<br />
<br />
:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.<br />
<br />
:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.<br />
<br />
:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking lane guides==<br />
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.<br />
<br />
:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.<br />
<br />
:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size smaller than needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.<br />
<br />
:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.<br />
<br />
:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.<br />
<br />
:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or has its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.<br />
<br />
==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==<br />
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.<br />
<br />
:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.<br />
<br />
==Plungers==<br />
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.<br />
<br />
:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.<br />
<br />
:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a weak spring to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.<br />
<br />
==Coil Sleeves==<br />
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.<br />
<br />
:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid. If a coil plunger is particularly mushroomed, replace it.<br />
<br />
==Connectors and Soldering==<br />
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems. A steel or brass wire bottle brush of the appropriate size works well to clean Jones plugs, and you can get a very fine nylon bottle brush to clean the female connectors. Don't use a metal brush to clean the female side unless you're sure to find and clean up any broken brush strands.<br />
<br />
:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Make sure any wire management straps are being used to support the weight of the harness going into the cabinet instead of depending on the header pin to support all that weight. Resoldering the header pins will fix the cracking and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.<br />
<br />
:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.<br />
<br />
==Slingshots==<br />
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back. Replace the sling switches with new switches or replace just the blade if they have been bent and mangled from incorrect adjustments. It's easier but more expensive to replace the entire switch vs. getting the blade parts (blade parts alone are <$1.00, new switches anywhere from $2.75-$6.00 depending on bracket installed/not and vendor).<br />
<br />
:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.<br />
<br />
:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is threefold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling). Thirdly, they prevent a ball from working its way under the rubber and getting trapped in the triangle under the sling plastic.<br />
<br />
:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. Grasp the actuator arm and rock it slightly at a right angle to its normal activation arc to check for wear. You will usually see some lateral slop in a sling mechanism; if it's excessive power will be lost on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or use a small nylon washer to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).<br />
<br />
==Standup/stationary Targets==<br />
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent so the target leans backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.<br />
<br />
:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is breached or gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes. Inspect the switch blades that make up the target and straighten any out that are mangled.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General&diff=11208General2014-02-09T07:26:27Z<p>Mr: /* Solder */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.<br />
<br />
=Safety=<br />
==Grounded 3-Prong Plug==<br />
[[File:3Prong Clipped.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Typical "clipped" 3rd prong on plug]]<br><br />
If the earth ground prong of a 3-prong plug is clipped or missing, replace the plug. Many of these plugs were clipped, because some older locations where games were placed only had two-prong outlets. The 3rd prong connects the games electrical circuits to "earth ground". In place, it reduces the risk of shock and protects the user. If you have neighboring machines and you feel a "tingle" when you touch the metal rails on both, one or both machines have a missing ground prong.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter set on continuity to ensure that the ground pin is connected to all the metal touchable parts of the game - the rails, the coin door, the legs bolts, etc. Investigate any missing wires and correct. Older games that came without a ground plug should have one added. Attach the green ground wire to the metal frame of the game transformer. Connect ground wires to all touchable metal parts on the game.<br />
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<br />
==Overfusing==<br />
[[File:BoltForAFuse.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The never blow, 1.21 GigaWatt fuse. Obviously, this is NOT recommended.]]<br><br />
Fuses are designed into your game's electrical circuitry to protect the circuits from damage should some component fail and begin to draw too much electrical current. They are designed to be the "weakest link" in the circuit. When too much current is drawn through the circuit, the fuse should be the first part of the circuit to fail.<br />
<br />
Although fuses sometimes fail due to old age or vibration, fuses usually fail for a reason. Locked on coils or flashers, direct shorts of power to ground, and many other reasons will cause a fuse to blow. If you replace a fuse, and it blows again, then you can be sure that something has gone awry.<br />
<br />
Always install fuses at the rating specified for your game. Installing a fuse rated higher than spec may cause some other part of the game circuitry to become the weakest link, and damage parts of the game that the fuse is designed to protect.<br />
<br />
Fuses are rated in terms of voltage and most importantly amps. Fuses are also designed as "fast blow" or "slow blow"/"time delayed blow". Typical sizes for pinball machines are 1.25 inches and 20mm.<br />
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<br />
=Parts to have on hand=<br />
'''All Machines'''<br />
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.<br />
<br />
'''Electromechanical Machines'''<br />
*#455 "Blinker" type bulbs for backglass highlights. Helps with heat in the head as well as they are usually about 50% duty cycle.<br />
*Replacement switch blades and high voltage contacts<br />
<br />
'''Solid State Machines'''<br />
<br />
*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a generic replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.<br />
*Replacement leaf blades and gold flashed contacts<br />
*TIP-102 Transistors<br />
*IN4004 Diodes<br />
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most versatile)<br />
<br />
=Tools of the Trade=<br />
<br />
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.<br />
<br />
==Mechanical Tools==<br />
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches<br />
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy<br />
*Nut driver set, which should include<br />
**1/4" nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts<br />
**5/16 nut driver - used for #6 nuts<br />
**11/32 nut driver - #8 nuts<br />
**3/8 nut driver - used for #10 nuts<br />
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts<br />
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. <br />
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.<br />
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.<br />
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.<br />
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.<br />
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.<br />
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench<br />
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts<br />
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench<br />
*Pliers<br />
*High-brightness LED flashlight<br />
*Magnetic pickup tool<br />
*Magnetic parts dish<br />
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)<br />
<br />
== Electrical Tools ==<br />
<br />
*A few alligator clip leads for testing<br />
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.<br />
*Side cutters<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.<br />
*For Connector Work<br />
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...<br />
**Connector pin pusher .093"<br />
**Connector pin pusher .062"<br />
<br />
'''Molex Crimper Styles'''<br />
<br />
[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]<br />
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
'''Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.<br />
<br />
Portable:<br />
<br />
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.<br />
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)<br><br />
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)<br><br />
<br />
There is also a type of cordless battery powered iron referred to as "cold heat" - these do not work well for any pinball application, due to the lack of control over the quality of the solder joint produced. Avoid these for pinball work.<br />
<br />
Corded:<br />
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)<br><br />
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)<br><br />
*Weller W60P (temperature controlled)<br><br />
Station:<br />
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)<br />
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)<br />
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)<br />
<br />
'''Advanced Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
The move to lead-free manufacturing forced manufacturers to solder at a more tightly controlled, lower temperature. This requirement led to new irons that can deliver lots of heat, quickly. They have heat-up times of less than 10 seconds, and can solder larger joints than conventional irons. They have tips with built-in elements and temperature sensors. The tips show up on eBay, new and used. They are relatively expensive ($10 - $30) but last longer than regular tips. Expect to spend $200 - $400 to kit up with one of these (eBay). They are valuable if you do board work, as the fast heat delivery means the solder melts without overheating the pad. <br />
<br />
Metcal has been making these new irons for some time, so the systems are relatively common on eBay. <br />
<br />
<br />
Metcal MX-500P<br />
JBC - these irons really do heat up in 2 seconds (20W handpiece)<br />
Hakko FM series<br />
Weller WXT series<br />
<br />
Ersa, Goot, Pace<br />
<br />
==Desoldering Tools==<br />
<br />
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.<br />
<br />
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.<br />
<br />
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.<br />
<br />
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.<br />
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.<br />
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.<br />
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use<br />
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.<br />
<br />
==Rework Solder Stations==<br />
<br />
*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) <br><br />
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder extractor)<br />
*Aoyue 2703A+ SMD repair & rework. Has soldering iron w/vacuum suction, desoldering gun, and hot air gun.<br />
<br />
==EM Tools==<br />
[[file:SwitchTools.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Leaf switch tools|1) Ignition points file for Tungsten contacts <br>2) Flexstone <br>3) Vendor supplied leaf switch adjustment tool <br>4) Homemade switch adjustment tool <br>5) Push-pull spring tool]]<br><br><br />
*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.<br />
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.<br />
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Cleaning & Restoration Supplies==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Product<br />
!Uses<br />
!Where to get<br />
<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 1<br />
|Light cleaning of plastics and playfield. Dust/dirt removal<br />
|grocery store?<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 2<br />
|General cleaning and polishing of plastics and playfield.<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 3<br />
|Cleaning for metal parts only<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Millwax<br />
|Not recommended for most playfields, except when?<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|90% isopropyl alcohol<br />
|Cleaning PCB boards. Evaporates quickly.<br />
|drug store (CVS, etc)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Deoxit contact cleaner<br />
|electrical contact deoxidizer<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Carnauba wax<br />
|playfield waxing<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Simple green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning, degreaser<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Mean green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Bleche white<br />
|wire assembly<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Krylon Triple Thick<br />
|backglass sealant<br />
|pinrestore.com, bigdaddyenterprises.com<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Lubrication==<br />
In nearly every instance, lubrication should not be used. The exceptions are metal on metal mechanical points (stepper unit pivot points, stepper unit wipers, and the pivot points of '''very few''' mechanical assys.). Although Williams stated to use graphite powder for lubrication on coil plungers where aluminum or brass coil sleeves were used, it is best to just replace the metal coil sleeves with new nylon sleeves ('''Note:''' some brass coil sleeves are integral to the coil's winding, and are not removeable). A general rule of thumb is where metal makes contact with plastic, lubrication is not needed. However, if lubrication is necessary, Super Lube Teflon gel is a very good product to use. However, it should be used very sparingly. When in doubt, under lubrication is better than over lubrication.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:WD-40 01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WD-40 needs no introduction]]<br><br><br><br />
[[File:WD-40 Coin Door.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Removal of Coin Door Sticker Residue with WD-40]]<br><br><br><br />
'''In no instance should WD-40 be used as a lubricant!''' WD-40 is a great product, but should used as intended. It can be used for breaking apart seized screws, bolts, or associated mechanisms, but should thoroughly be cleaned off once a unit has been disassembled.<br><br />
<br />
There is one other good use for WD-40 regarding pinball machines. Coin door stickers, operator stickers on aprons, and game permit stickers all tend to make their way onto pinball machines. WD-40 is a very good product which can be used to remove sticker residue.<br />
It also makes an excellent hand cleaner.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==<br />
<font color=red>In work</font><br />
<br />
=Preparing Printed Circuit Cards (PCBs) for Shipping or Storage=<br />
<br />
[[Image:PCBWrappedInFoilResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Williams DMD Controller prepared for shipment, wrapped in aluminum foil. This method is a reasonable alternative when an ESD safe bag isn't available.]]<br><br />
Pinball boards (PCBs) are sensitive to Electro-Static Discharge (ESD). Static electricity that builds up in your body or via packaging material that rubs together can "shock" the sensitive components on a PCB, damaging them in doing so.<br />
<br />
Board repair techs go through great pains to ground themselves while working on PCBs.<br />
<br />
If you need to store or to ship a PCB, enclose it in an ESD safe bag. If a bag isn't available, wrap the board in aluminum foil. Both will protect the board from ESD.<br />
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<br />
=How to Twist Wires Together Neatly=<br />
Easy as Pie...<br />
#Chuck both wires in a slow speed drill<br />
#Hold other end firmly<br />
#Engage, and watch with amazement as the wires neatly twist around each-other.<br />
As you can see from the results below, this old technique yields excellent results.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="How to neatly twist two (or more) wires together"><br />
File:WireWindingStart.jpg|<center>Chuck the wires</center><br />
File:WireWindingEnd.jpg|<center>End result</center><br />
File:WireWindingDetail.jpg|<center>End result detail. Nice...</center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
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<br />
=Soldering=<br />
<br />
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering. <br />
<br />
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!<br />
<br />
==Equipment and Supplies==<br />
<br />
===The basic soldering iron===<br />
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. One example is the Weller WESD-51.<br />
<br />
===Tip Cleaner===<br />
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.<br />
<br />
===Solder===<br />
There are three things that matter with solder. <br />
<br />
The diameter. In pinball, .031" is a good general purpose size. Thicker, and you'll be blobbing everywhere except on the biggest joints. Thinner, and it takes a lot of solder to feed a joint.<br />
<br />
The alloy, typically tin-lead, expressed as something like 63/37, which means 63% tin and 37% lead. For pinball, 63/37 is the best overall alloy. The common 60/40 is a shade cheaper, but isn't as good. In particular, it goes through a pasty mode before it hardens. If it is moved while pasty, you can get a bad joint. You can use 60/40, but 63/37 is more reliable. You won't like lead-free solder, as it has to be hotter and does not flow as well. Plus, even good joints look frosty. <br />
<br />
The flux, which might be rosin, no-clean or water soluble. You don't want water soluble, as it can leave an acid residue if not washed. No clean is nice, as it doesn't leave blobs of flux hanging on a joint. Rosin, the classic flux, is aggressive and effective, but leaves joints dirty and should be cleaned with alcohol. <br />
<br />
A fourth parameter is the number of solder cores, typically 50 - 66. Doesn't matter for pinball, but a higher core count should be a little easier to use. <br />
<br />
So you will want one of these two types:<br />
- Rosin-core .031 63/37 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-0026). This is super easy to use and will get you the best joints (AKA Kester 44)<br />
- No-clean .031 6337 (e.g. Kester 24-6337-8801). Easy to use, no cleaning needed. <br />
<br />
<br />
If you want to get solder locally, Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. For completing clean "OEM-like" solder joints, a "no clean" solder like Kester .031 diameter 63/37 no-clean solder, Kester part number 24-6337-8801, can be used. <br />
<br />
As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. Here is one supplier of Kester 245 "no-clean" solder (with an obsolete 50 core count): [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life] <br />
<br />
A useful supplier is MCM Electronics. They carry a good range of 63/37 solders, and also sell smaller spools. MCM also has good pinball cabinet speakers, and often has free shipping for orders over $50.<br />
[http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?cataf=&view=list&w=solder+63%2F37&x=0&y=0 MCM Electronics 63/37 Solders]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Under no circumstances should Acid-core (plumbing) solder be used anywhere on a pinball machine.'''<br />
<br />
===Optional Equipment===<br />
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.<br />
<br />
==Soldering wires==<br />
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything. <br />
<br />
Here are the simple steps:<br />
<br />
#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.<br />
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.<br />
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.<br />
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool. <br />
<br />
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts through the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or "hemo-stats" are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, you may have created what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.<br />
<br />
'''Things to Know'''<br />
<br />
*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and the solder joint will be unreliable.<br />
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. Once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.<br />
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that threading the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.<br />
<br />
== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==<br />
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.<br><br />
<br />
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are delicate and can become damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied for too long, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult. It is better to use more heat for less time than less heat for more time.<br><br />
<br />
When the replacement of a chip is necessary, it is recommended to use a chip socket (in most all instances - there are some exceptions), versus soldering a replacement chip directly onto the circuit board. The reasoning is two-fold:<br />
<br />
# Adding a chip socket reduces the amount of heat applied to a circuit board in the future should the same chip fail.<br />
# If the same chip does fail, replacement of the chip will be much easier.<br />
<br />
When soldering a chip socket in place, skipping from side to side for subsequent joints or skipping every other pin as you solder can help alleviate the risk of heating up a small part of the board, causing lifted pads and traces. A good solderer with the proper equipment can solder a 40 pin chip socket into place on a PCB in about 2 minutes.<br><br />
<br />
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Socket check work.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Testing for (lack of) continuity between chip socket positions]]<br><br />
After a chip socket has been soldered onto a board, it is equally a good practice to check for continuity between the socket pin and the adjoining circuitry, and discontinuity between adjacent socket positions. If there isn't continuity between the chip socket and its associated circuits, check / inspect the work performed. Likewise, if there is continuity between neighboring chip socket positions, check for excess solder or foreign material creating a conductive bridge between the two.<br><br />
<br />
'''Note:''' in some cases, a PCB has traces or pads intentionally tied together between adjacent chip sockets. Consult the schematics of the particular board being worked on to verify if this is the case, when two sockets are determined to have continuity.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=== Bending Discrete Through-hole Components ===<br />
[[File:BendingThroughHoleComponents.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to bend through-hole components using a drop target.]]<br><br />
An easy way to bend resistors, capacitors, etc to length when replacing them is to use a popsicle stick or an old drop target, as pictured at left. Bend the leads around the target. This works well for many older game systems like Bally -17/-35, Williams, etc.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"===<br />
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.<br />
<br />
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.<br />
<br />
[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]]<br><br />
'''Procedure''':<br><br />
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".<br><br />
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough.<br><br />
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.<br><br />
#Solder the first side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place.<br><br />
#All done!<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===Using an old Socket to Align SIPs and Headers===<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionSIPs.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Using a socket to align SIP (Single Inline Package) machine pin socket strips.]]<br><br />
Using an old socket to position two SIPs perfectly is easy, as shown in the picture at left.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionHeaders.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to align header pins across two header strips.]]<br><br />
Likewise, an old socket can be used to position headers perfectly in line when more than one header strip is used/needed.<br />
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<br />
=Desoldering=<br />
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each<br />
<br />
Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts<br />
<br />
=DIP (Dual In-line Package) Pin Numbering Convention=<br />
[[File:Dip14pins.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DIP 14 pin]]<br>The diagram at left shows standard pin numbering for integrated circuits. Pin #1 is always located at the chips "dot" or if not dot, immediately to the left of the chips "notch". The pin "legs" are then numbered sequentially around the chip counter-clockwise. This convention is observed for DIP packages of all sizes. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Testing an integrated circuit=<br />
<br />
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.<br />
<br />
This test works for many 74XX series ICs.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]<br />
'''Procedure''':<br />
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test. <br />
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".<br />
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if testing multiple chips on the same board.<br />
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
'''Interpreting the results:'''<br />
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.<br><br />
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.<br><br />
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.<br><br />
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.<br />
*Comparing your results against results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
Readings outside of this range may indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.<br />
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<br />
=Testing fuses=<br />
<br />
[[File:BuzzingAFuseTheWrongWay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An example of why you MUST remove a fuse to "buzz" it. This '''empty''' fuse holder is for the GI circuit in a Williams game. The meter is showing continuity with no fuse present. The meter is finding a path back through the transformer secondary.]]<br><br />
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.<br />
<br />
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".<br />
<br />
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading, as shown in the picture at left. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.<br />
<br />
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job of being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.<br />
<br />
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.<br />
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<br />
=Testing a Bridge Rectifier=<br />
<br />
''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.''<br />
<br />
[[File:TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Four Connections to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.]]<br><br />
The picture at left illustrates the 4 readings to be taken when testing a bridge rectifier.<br />
<br />
'''Procedure:'''<br />
<br />
#Place your DMM into "diode test". <br />
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge. <br />
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes). <br />
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge <br />
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen. <br />
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<br />
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit. This part of the bridge is good.]]<br> <br />
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc). <br />
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<br />
=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red><need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on FETs></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on SCRs></font><br><br />
<br />
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used except for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. <br />
<br />
When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own. <br />
<br />
<br />
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)<br />
<br />
[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:<br />
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right<br />
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC<br />
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE<br />
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)<br />
<br />
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.<br />
<br />
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.<br><br />
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''.<br><br />
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).<br><br />
'''Note: A transistor can "test" good and still be bad!!'''<br><br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the red lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the black lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-A13''' transistor.<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-U45''' transistor (or '''NDS-U45''' or '''CEN-U45''' which are equivalents).<br />
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
=Testing a coil=<br />
<br />
If a drive transistor shorts, providing an unintended path to ground for power at a solenoid, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil winding gets hot enough, it will burn through the protective coating on the winding, shorting adjacently wound wires and reducing the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the failed driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged immediately after power on.<br />
<br />
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is wise to check each coil's resistance '''*before*''' switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it! Even examining each coil in the game for burned coil wrappers may help identify a shorted coil.<br />
<br />
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power winding and a hold winding. These are easily identified as they have three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.<br />
<br />
==Testing resistance==<br />
To test a coil's resistance:<br />
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs. <br />
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. Note: Some flipper coils will read less than 2 ohms but still be fine.<br />
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (i.e. the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or drive transistor issue. <br />
<br />
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before powering the game on again.<br />
<br />
==Testing for coil power==<br />
With the machine powered on:<br />
* set your DMM to DC<br />
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one). <br />
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-75v.<br />
<br />
Please note that some games have a coin door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids.<br />
<br />
==Testing the coil diode==<br />
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.<br />
<br />
To test a coil diode:<br />
<br />
* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.<br />
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.<br />
* Place the black lead on the banded side.<br />
* Place the red lead on the non-banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.<br />
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'<br />
<br />
==Testing the driver transistors==<br />
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=Basic Sound Troubleshooting=<br />
Regardless of the manufacturer, there are some simple steps to follow if no sound is present. Below are the steps from simplest to more complicated.<br />
<br />
# Make sure the speaker is properly connected. If female crimp spade connectors are used on the wiring connecting to the speaker terminals, it is not uncommon for the connectors to come loose or even break. If the leads to the speakers are soldered onto the speaker terminals, make certain the wires are soldered well by gently tugging on the wires.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the speaker is good. If no sound is coming out of the speaker, not even a hum when the volume pot is turned up, check to see if the speaker is not blown. For what it is worth, even a speaker with a ripped cone can put out some sound in most cases. The sound may be distorted, but it should be present. There are two ways to test a speaker. The safest way is to hook an ohmmeter up to the two speaker leads, and see if the resistance equals the impedance of the speaker. Most, if not all speakers in pinball machines are either 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The other method for testing a speaker is to hook a 9v battery up to the speaker leads. Prior to hooking up a battery, it is important to disconnect the speaker outputs on the sound board. This will isolate the speaker from the sound board completely. Once the battery is hooked up, the speaker cone should either pull in or flex out, depending on how the battery's polarity was connected to the speaker. '''Do not allow the battery to be connected to the speaker for very long'''.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume potentiometer (pot) is properly connected, if one is used (newer machines like WMS WPC, Stern / Sega White Star, and stern SAM systems use digital potentiometers). If turning the volume pot up does not result in any sound, turn the pot the opposite direction. If no mechanical pot is used, skip the next step.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume pot is good. Using an ohmmeter. connect the leads to the volume pot, and turn the pot back in forth. When the pot is turned completely one way, it should read close to zero ohms (full volume). When turned the opposite direction, the reading should be close to the value of what the pot's rating (pots in pinball machines roughly range from 5 kohms to 25 kohms depending on the manufacturer). Pots sometime develop "dead spots". When the pot is turned from its lowest setting (highest resistance value) to its highest setting (0 ohm resistance), the resistance value should slowly decrease. While turning the pot, if the value spikes to 0 and resumes to a higher value than 0, the pot has a dead spot. TV tuner cleaner can be used to sometimes rectify this problem. Even exercising the pot back and forth can resolve dead spots in a pinch.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the output connections on the sound board are good. If the sound board in question has header pins on the output to the speaker / volume pot, check for cracked header joints. Short of a visual inspection with the board removed from the game, try wiggling the output connector. This does not definitely prove that there are cracked header joints, but it shows that either the headers or the harness connector is at fault. Additionally, check for bad connectors inside the speaker output housing connection. If the sound board in question uses edge finger connections, check the edge connector inside the housing of the output to the speaker. In either case, if the output harness uses an insulation displacement connector (IDC), check to make sure the wires are securely seated inside the connector of the housing.<br><br><br />
#In some but not all instances, sound boards use a 5-legged amplifier with a heat sink attached. Sound boards with this type of amp may have cracked solder joints at the legs of the amp. If gently wiggling the amps heat sink makes sound cut in and out, suspect cracked solder joints on the legs of the amp.<br><br />
<br />
Remaining issues are typically sound board specific. Please review the appropriate repair pages regarding the sound board in question.<br />
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<br />
=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=<br />
Need to cover...<br><br />
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)<br><br />
SOIC to DIP adapters<br><br />
<br />
==Resistor Networks==<br />
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations"><br />
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Bussed Resistor Network</b></center><br />
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Isolated Resistor Network</b></center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
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[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.<br />
<br />
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1.<br><br />
<font color=Red><need a picture of this></font><br />
<br />
=The Switch Matrix=<br />
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.<br />
<br />
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required. <br />
<br />
<u>'''How a switch matrix works'''</u><br />
<br />
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.<br />
<br />
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse). <br />
<br />
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.<br><br />
<br />
<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center><br />
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<br />
=Switch Matrix IN WORK=<br />
<youtube v="Bo3wVuyJtXA" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<youtube v="rNx2D6KeAxQ" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:NormalSwitchMatrixOperation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Normal Switch Matrix Operation]]<br />
[[Image:ShortedDiodeFailureInSwitchMatrix.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Implications of a Shorted Diode in the Switch Matrix]]<br />
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<br />
=General Illumination=<br />
<br />
General Illumination is lighting that switches on (generally) when game power is turned on. Some general illumination circuits are switched on by an electromechanical relay (EM games, Williams System 11, and all eras of solid state Gottlieb games for instance). Some GI circuits are controlled by the MPU (WPC games). General illumination lamps are essentially the same as Christmas tree lights. They come on when power is applied.<br />
<br />
[[File:SST-GIModification.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Underside of Starship Troopers playfield showing mod to top lane guide GI lamp installation.]]<br><br><br />
Some GI sockets are very difficult to get to, like in Sega's Starship Troopers. One way to ease the job is to get at the lamps from under the playfield where possible. This requires a small modification to your game and some short wood screws. In the picture at left, the OEM staples have been removed and replaced with a standard pinball target screw. One screw is really enough since the lamp isn't going anywhere. To replace a lamp, simply remove the screw, pull the socket, replace the lamp, and reinstall. Make certain the length of the screw will not protrude through the top of the playfield. Those who prefer the look of LEDs should consider using LEDs in these tough to reach places.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=The Lamp Matrix=<br />
<br />
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.<br />
<br />
All EM's control lamps with switches on relay stacks, or wipers on disc units.<br />
<br />
'''How the lamp matrix works'''<br />
<br />
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.<br />
<br />
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.<br />
<br />
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''<br />
<br />
#Fewer wires<br />
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp matrix problems'''<br />
<br />
#Single lamp out<br />
#Single lamp locked on<br />
#multiple lamps in a row<br />
#multiple lamps in a column<br />
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not<br />
<br />
'''Typical causes'''<br />
<br />
#Wiring shorts<br />
#Shorted diode(s)<br />
<br />
=How coils, flashers, and motors are turned on=<br />
<br />
In most machines, every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at all coil lugs. Exceptions are...<br><br />
*Williams System 11 and Data East/Sega games which have an A/C (side) select relay that switches power between two banks...a bank of coils and a bank of flashers.<br />
*Flipper coils on Data East games that use the Solid State Flipper Board. The SSFB provides power to the coils only after the cabinet flipper button switch is closed.<br />
<br />
[[File:CoilPowerDiagram.jpg|400px|left|thumb|A simple representation of how power is always present at all coil lugs, waiting to "find ground" via a switch. Solid state pinball machines use transistors to "switch" power to ground (a TIP-102 transistor for instance)]]<br><br />
If you set your DMM to DC voltage, place the black lead of your DMM on game ground such as the ground braid or the side rail, and place the red lead of your DMM on either coil lug, you should read nominal coil voltage (exactly what voltage level depends on the game system). Your DMM reads the voltage at both/all coil lugs because, when the coil is off, there is no current through the coil to cause a voltage drop. Power present at one coil lug is guaranteed to be present at the other coil lug unless the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is disconnected from the lug.<br />
<br />
Referencing the diagram at left, placing the red probe of your DMM at any point labeled "P", and the black lead of your DMM on game ground (labeled "G"), should read nominal coil voltage.<br />
<br />
All that is required for the coil to "fire" is for the ground lug of the coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor, or by closing a switch that creates a path to ground. <br />
<br />
Note that this also a good example of how to test a coil, and the power circuit. Grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly. If the coil does not fire, then either the coil is not receiving power, or the coil winding has a break in it, or the coil winding is not attached securely to the coil's solder tab(s).<br />
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<br />
=Flippers=<br />
<br />
;How does a flipper work?<br />
:Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the coil to overheat or the fuse to blow. Note that it takes less power to hold the flipper up than it does to pull the plunger in for the initial flip due to the effect the metal plunger has on what is initially an air-core coil.<br />
<br />
;High Voltage flipper operation<br />
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.<br />
<br />
:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.<br />
<br />
:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.<br />
<br />
:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.<br />
<br />
;Solid State Flipper operation<br />
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.<br />
<br />
:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.<br />
<br />
:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.<br />
<br />
;Summary of EOS switch function for various types of games<br />
*EM: EOS switch shorts hold winding until flipper is actuated. This allows the power coil to provide full strength during the flipper movement but switch over to the lower power hold winding at the end of movement. In reality, both the power and hold coils are in series during hold operation.<br />
*Data East: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40 ms) switch-over from 50V to 8V for hold operation. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. See Maverick game manual page 90 for theory of operation. <br />
*Stern: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40ms) switchover to 1ms pulses every 12ms to hold the coil up. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. For a description of Stern flipper operation, see [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/BATMAN_SGM/BATMAN_SEC5_CHP2.pdf Stern Batman TDK Manual Section 5 Chapter 2 Page 106]<br />
*Williams: Fliptronic board provides CPU-controlled coil drivers for the flippers. When EOS switch closes power is switched to the hold winding. Williams WPC flipper problems are discussed in the [[Williams_WPC#Flipper_Problems]] section.<br />
<br />
==Weak Flippers - What to check==<br />
[[File:CoilSleeveWithInternalRingResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn coil sleeve, with an internal "ring" worn into it. This ring prevented the plunger from being fully pulled in.]]<br><br />
There are many problems that can lead to weak flippers. Some flipper problems are unique to EM games, but there are many problems common to both EM and SS games.<br />
Problems can be either electrical or mechanical. Below is a list of items to check. General things to note are whether both flippers are weak or just one, if the flipper won't flip will it stay up if the bat is manually moved to the up position, and does the flipper bat move easily when moved by hand. The following list details problems that can cause weak flippers.<br />
<br />
#End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch dirty. <br>The power winding of a flipper coil is only a few ohms of resistance so it doesn't take too much added resistance in the EOS switch to degrade the flipper power. If an EOS switch is not making contact at all the flipper will likely not flip, but will hold if you manually actuate the flipper.<br />
#Flipper switch dirty. <br>For EM games, flipper power is provided through the flipper switch. Added resistance of a fouled switch can weaken flippers.<br />
#Coil sleeve worn or dirty. <br>Cleaning the coil plunger and sleeve will improve flipper performance. Some older games had metal sleeves that should be replaced with modern nylon sleeves. Even when wear can not be seen, replacing the coil sleeve often helps.<br />
#Coil stop or plunger mushroomed. <br>Coils operate best when there is a flat surface between the plunger end and the coil stop. A mushroomed coil stop or plunger can cause the flipper to buzz when held up.<br />
#Flipper spring too tight. <br>This can also result in noisy flippers when held up. The flipper spring should be adjusted so that it can barely return the flippers to their resting postion when the playfield is up.<br />
#Flipper bushing binding. <br>A worn flipper bushing or a misadjusted flipper bat can result in binding that impedes flipper movement. Make sure there is a small amount of vertical play in the flipper to prevent binding.<br />
#Hogged out fiber link. <br>Over time the holes in the flipper links can become elongated. The play in the flipper movement results in wasted coil movement and thus reduced flipper strength.<br />
#Power issues. <br>Make sure you are getting full voltage at the flipper coil. Usually a power problem will cause both flippers to be weak.<br />
#Drive transistor bad (SS only) <br>In solid state games it is possible to have a transistor that is bad but still somewhat operational. Usually the bad transistor will get noticeably hotter than other similar transistors.<br />
#Power Winding bad. <br>Coil failures are rare, but check from broken solder connections and broken coil wires at the coil lugs.<br />
<br />
=Changing Batteries=<br />
Solid state machines have batteries to save high score and setting information when the machine is powered off. Usually these are three AA batteries mounted on the CPU board. They should be changed annually to prevent leakage that will damage the CPU board.<br />
<br />
Batteries can be changed with the machine powered on so that settings are maintained. Some people recommend changing one battery at a time, but this is only to help ensure that the new batteries are installed with the correct polarity.<br />
<br />
The best thing you can do for your game is to install a remote battery holder, which moves the batteries completely off of the CPU board. See the specific game system section for instructions to perform this simple modification.<br />
<br />
=Coil Chart=<br />
<br />
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at<br />
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html<br />
<br />
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Chart=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Voltage (V)<br />
!Current(A)<br />
!Candle Power<br />
!Life (hours)<br />
!Base<br />
!Typical Use<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|44<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|47<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|55<br />
|7.0<br />
|.41<br />
|2.00<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47<br> '''Not a good replacement in pop bumpers or behind backglasses (too much heat generated)'''<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|63<br />
|7.0<br />
|.63<br />
|3.0<br />
|1,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Used in early Williams solid state games like Flash.<br> Found in Williams games as late as High Speed; typically installed in series<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|67<br />
|13.5<br />
|.59<br />
|4.0<br />
|5,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Exclusively used as flash lamps on Gottlieb (Premier) games<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|73<br />
|14.0<br />
|.80<br />
|.30<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|86<br />
|6.3<br />
|.20<br />
|.40<br />
|20,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism;Gottlieb Victory ramp chaser lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|89<br />
|13.0<br />
|.58<br />
|6.00<br />
|750<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|159<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.34<br />
|5000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the #555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|194<br />
|14.0<br />
|.27<br />
|2.00<br />
|1,500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Whitewater Topper Lamps<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (instrument panel / dash lamps)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|199<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.25<br />
|32.00<br />
|1500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Alternate for 1156 lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|313<br />
|28<br />
|0.17<br />
|3.5<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|447<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|455<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.5<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Blinker<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|545<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.31<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|555<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|906<br />
|13.0<br />
|.69<br />
|6.00<br />
|1000<br />
|T-5 Wedge<br />
|Flash Lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1156<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.1<br />
|32.00<br />
|1,200<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed II beacon lamp and Creature from the Black Lagoon hologram projection lamp<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (reverse and front turn signal lamp in some vehicles)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1251<br />
|28.0<br />
|.23<br />
|3.00<br />
|2,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1683<br />
|28.0<br />
|1.02<br />
|32.00<br />
|500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed, F-14 Tomcat, and Rescue 911 beacon lamps; Fire! flame tube projection lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1847<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.38<br />
|5,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Dimmer, longer lasting version of 47 bulb; for areas where vibration is a factor (pop bumpers, etc.)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.<br />
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.<br />
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.<br />
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)<br />
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter<br />
<br />
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Sockets=<br />
<br />
Some later games have illuminated buttons for start and possibly other functions. These are typically located on the front of the cabinet. Instructions on replacing the lamp in those switches can be found [http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/installation_illuminated.htm here].<br />
<br />
=Fuse Table=<br />
<br />
<center><font size="4">'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</font></center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center><br />
<br />
{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 5A<br />
| BR, DC coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 10A<br />
| Main, BR, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|- align="left"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils-under PF<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Displays<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Service outlet<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Main line power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils, Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/16A<br />
| High Voltage on SDB<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Pop bumpers (Sys80/80A/80B), Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| Display power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main, coils, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 4A<br />
| 12v/5v power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB<br />
| PS, lamps, displays<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| 5A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 15A<br />
| General Illumination<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 20A<br />
| Switched Lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Display high voltage<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Power supply (displays)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB<br />
| Display driver board<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Aux board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Sound board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Power supply, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| 5v power (L7 games)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 20A<br />
| General illumination<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 1/10A<br />
| Cabinet, displays<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A <br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega &amp; New Stern'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| Display<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB<br />
| Display<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB<br />
| 12v PS F101<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Lamps, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB<br />
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Coils, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB<br />
| Switched lamps, line<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Line, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB<br />
| Coils main F108<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Power line, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T2.5A SB<br />
| Audio F501, F502<br />
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=Resistors=<br />
Resistors typically have a standard color coding scheme, (the exceptions are some power resistors which have the value and wattage inked on the resistor), which is used to identify the resistor's value and tolerance. The resistor's value and tolerance can be identified on this [http://samengstrom.com/24614782/en/read/4_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes?history=5107960,24614782 website] by clicking the appropriate color bands.<br />
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=Game Software (ROMs)=<br />
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features. These home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case, it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]<br />
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Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. DO NOT depend on the labels on the replacement roms "matching" a direction on your machine! ALWAYS check the orientation based on the notches. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement. <br />
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Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.<br />
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Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.<br />
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=Counterfeit Integrated Circuits=<br />
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[[File:MOS 6532.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bogus 6532 Chips]]<br />
As time passes, the need for through hole integrated circuits (IC chips) in current manufacturing decreases. Most consumable electronics today are using surface mount ICs. However, through hole ICs are what nearly 90% of all solid state pinball machines use on circuit boards. And as the need decreases, the price increases. Enter the counterfeiters. It may sound absurd, but there is a whole "underground" industry of counterfeit IC chips being created. How are they typically counterfeited? Old ICs are sourced, the top of the chip is either sanded or painted over with the correct identifiers as to what chip it is, and a new identifier is inked over. Some counterfeit chips are fairly obvious (see the pic to the left to view two sanded IC tops), while others are not so obvious.<br><br />
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The moral to this is know who you are buying from. Avoid buying components from sellers who offer product at "too good to be true" prices. Some of these types of sellers peddle their product on eBay, and originate from the Far East. Keep in mind that even trusted sellers are not totally immune from counterfeit chips, but the really good sellers have a better grasp on reducing the sales of counterfeit chips from their inventory.<br />
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=Tumbling Parts to Clean Them=<br />
[[File:TarnishedMetalPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A batch of playfield posts, etc from a Gottlieb Buckaroo.]]<br><br />
A quick way to shine a lot of metal parts is to use a "parts tumbler". (Technically, what is referred to in this section is a Vibrating Polisher - the name comes from a rock tumbler polisher, which can also be used but takes much longer.) Tumblers can typically be purchased at Bass Pro Shops as shooting enthusiasts use them to polish brass cartridges. One of the "old standards" is the [http://www.berrysmfg.com/product-i14546-c47-g8-b0-p0-400_Tumbler.aspx model 400 made by Berry's Manufacturing]. Crushed walnut shell media works well. It can be acquired at pet stores where it is sold as lizard bedding. For gentle less aggressive tumbling, use corn cob media. Additives such as "Flitz" or even a squirt of Novus 3 have been used to improve results. KIT Scratch Out also works very well for this application.<br />
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[[File:TumbledBuckARooPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Ah yes...nice and shiny. These parts were tumbled for about 24 hours in crushed walnut shell media.]]<br><br />
Tumbling approaches the point of diminishing returns after about 24 hours. Tumbling past 24 hours doesn't yield much improvement.<br />
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To remove the walnut shell media from flat-blade screws, a dental pick works well.<br><br />
To remove the media from Gottlieb "Speed Nuts" or Acorn Nuts, shake them inside a plastic container. The media falls right out.<br />
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=How to Properly File Switch Contacts=<br />
This is a stub<br />
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=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=<br />
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==General==<br />
:Check the tightness of all under playfield mechanisms. It's not uncommon for mechanisms (even with lock nuts) to loosen up over time. Do not overtighten and strip out any holes, just snug them in. If you find any loose holes, repair with glue and toothpicks. Once everything is tight again, mechanism action will be crisper.<br />
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==Leveling the Game==<br />
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
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==Adjusting the Game Pitch==<br />
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
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:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.<br />
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==Balls==<br />
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.<br />
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:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.<br />
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==Adjusting flippers==<br />
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.<br />
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:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.<br />
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:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.<br />
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:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.<br />
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:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.<br />
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==Adjusting drop targets==<br />
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well). Take caution in cleaning the drop target face. If a face is stamped with artwork, most chemicals (even mild ones) will remove the artwork.<br />
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:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.<br />
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===Williams===<br />
:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.<br />
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:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.<br />
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:Later Williams' drop banks went to a two-spring design, one to pull the target down, and one coil spring to push the target forward on reset. This design started sometime around the Big Guns era. There's not a lot of adjustment needed in this type of target other than to clean them very well, and to ensure that the rubber grommets and the washer/screw combination are not too tight. They should be tightened just enough so the target will reset properly, but not so much that the target drops slowly. The weak points of this design are the ledge the drop targets rest on, and the studs used to hold the drop target reset coil stop. Originally, a small strip of tempered, spring steel was used for the ledge. This piece of spring steel was riveted to the drop target assy. frame. If it cracks or breaks, a single target or targets in the bank will not properly reset, as there is no ledge for them to rest in the up position. Williams realized this issue, and later versions of this type of drop target assy., somewhere around Earthshaker, were made with a replaceable ledge. Likewise, the coil stops were mounted with studs integrated into the drop target frame assy. These studs can snap off flush with the frame, allowing only one side or neither to hold the coil stop in place. <br />
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===Gottlieb===<br />
:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their original design. There are 2 discrete springs used; one to pull the drops in the proper direction to reset correctly, and another to provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.<br />
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:The 2-spring Gottlieb design changed during the system 80B era. This design change moved the reset coil from the outside of the drop target assy. to the underside, center of the assy. on small and single banks. Multiple reset coils were still used on banks larger than 4 targets. The benefit of the new design was less moving parts and a slightly smaller mounting footprint. However, the newer design eliminated the two spring design, and the smooth even stroke for the reset. While the targets still drop down smartly, on reset occasionally they will reset too high, or some targets will fail to reset, if the reset coil is not adjusted properly. Well beyond the time of the initial design change, some System 3 games use a combination of the old and new style drop target assys. <br />
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===Bally===<br />
:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.<br />
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:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place. Be sure any added shims don't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.<br />
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:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.<br />
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:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chiclet" style for over 25 years.<br />
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===Stern (Classic)===<br />
:Classic Stern drops, commonly referred to as "chiclets", were originally similar to the Bally "tombstone" style, and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the playfield, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.<br />
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:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.<br />
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==Tweaking a pop bumper==<br />
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.<br />
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:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.<br />
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:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.<br />
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:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.<br />
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:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.<br />
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:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.<br />
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==Tuning a spinner==<br />
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.<br />
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:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 2000 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.<br />
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:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.<br />
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:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.<br />
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:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.<br />
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:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.<br />
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==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==<br />
:Most would ask why you would <b>want</b> to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.<br />
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:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.<br />
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:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.<br />
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:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).<br />
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:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.<br />
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:Shaking a pinball is a part of the game, and possibly a greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.<br />
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:Another trick is to ensure the playfield is attached solidly in some way to the cabinet. Older games have a metal clamping bracket in the cabinet to lock down the playfield, allowing better nudging action. Some older games use screws to attach the playfield to the cabinet. Metal hanger brackets used on newer machines take some of the nudging force away by allowing the playfield's suspension to absorb some of the force. A piece of cardboard folded and wedged at the playfield apron will help remove this factor and allowing more subtle shaking of the machine. This in turn will allow a tighter tilt if desired since the playfield will react to smaller nudges versus stock.<br />
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==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==<br />
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).<br />
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:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.<br />
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:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.<br />
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:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking lane guides==<br />
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.<br />
<br />
:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.<br />
<br />
:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size smaller than needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.<br />
<br />
:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.<br />
<br />
:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.<br />
<br />
:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or has its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.<br />
<br />
==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==<br />
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.<br />
<br />
:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.<br />
<br />
==Plungers==<br />
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.<br />
<br />
:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.<br />
<br />
:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a weak spring to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.<br />
<br />
==Coil Sleeves==<br />
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.<br />
<br />
:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid. If a coil plunger is particularly mushroomed, replace it.<br />
<br />
==Connectors and Soldering==<br />
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems. A steel or brass wire bottle brush of the appropriate size works well to clean Jones plugs, and you can get a very fine nylon bottle brush to clean the female connectors. Don't use a metal brush to clean the female side unless you're sure to find and clean up any broken brush strands.<br />
<br />
:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Make sure any wire management straps are being used to support the weight of the harness going into the cabinet instead of depending on the header pin to support all that weight. Resoldering the header pins will fix the cracking and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.<br />
<br />
:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.<br />
<br />
==Slingshots==<br />
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back. Replace the sling switches with new switches or replace just the blade if they have been bent and mangled from incorrect adjustments. It's easier but more expensive to replace the entire switch vs. getting the blade parts (blade parts alone are <$1.00, new switches anywhere from $2.75-$6.00 depending on bracket installed/not and vendor).<br />
<br />
:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.<br />
<br />
:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is threefold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling). Thirdly, they prevent a ball from working its way under the rubber and getting trapped in the triangle under the sling plastic.<br />
<br />
:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. Grasp the actuator arm and rock it slightly at a right angle to its normal activation arc to check for wear. You will usually see some lateral slop in a sling mechanism; if it's excessive power will be lost on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or use a small nylon washer to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).<br />
<br />
==Standup/stationary Targets==<br />
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent so the target leans backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.<br />
<br />
:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is breached or gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes. Inspect the switch blades that make up the target and straighten any out that are mangled.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General&diff=11207General2014-02-09T07:03:42Z<p>Mr: /* Solder */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.<br />
<br />
=Safety=<br />
==Grounded 3-Prong Plug==<br />
[[File:3Prong Clipped.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Typical "clipped" 3rd prong on plug]]<br><br />
If the earth ground prong of a 3-prong plug is clipped or missing, replace the plug. Many of these plugs were clipped, because some older locations where games were placed only had two-prong outlets. The 3rd prong connects the games electrical circuits to "earth ground". In place, it reduces the risk of shock and protects the user. If you have neighboring machines and you feel a "tingle" when you touch the metal rails on both, one or both machines have a missing ground prong.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter set on continuity to ensure that the ground pin is connected to all the metal touchable parts of the game - the rails, the coin door, the legs bolts, etc. Investigate any missing wires and correct. Older games that came without a ground plug should have one added. Attach the green ground wire to the metal frame of the game transformer. Connect ground wires to all touchable metal parts on the game.<br />
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<br />
==Overfusing==<br />
[[File:BoltForAFuse.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The never blow, 1.21 GigaWatt fuse. Obviously, this is NOT recommended.]]<br><br />
Fuses are designed into your game's electrical circuitry to protect the circuits from damage should some component fail and begin to draw too much electrical current. They are designed to be the "weakest link" in the circuit. When too much current is drawn through the circuit, the fuse should be the first part of the circuit to fail.<br />
<br />
Although fuses sometimes fail due to old age or vibration, fuses usually fail for a reason. Locked on coils or flashers, direct shorts of power to ground, and many other reasons will cause a fuse to blow. If you replace a fuse, and it blows again, then you can be sure that something has gone awry.<br />
<br />
Always install fuses at the rating specified for your game. Installing a fuse rated higher than spec may cause some other part of the game circuitry to become the weakest link, and damage parts of the game that the fuse is designed to protect.<br />
<br />
Fuses are rated in terms of voltage and most importantly amps. Fuses are also designed as "fast blow" or "slow blow"/"time delayed blow". Typical sizes for pinball machines are 1.25 inches and 20mm.<br />
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<br />
=Parts to have on hand=<br />
'''All Machines'''<br />
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.<br />
<br />
'''Electromechanical Machines'''<br />
*#455 "Blinker" type bulbs for backglass highlights. Helps with heat in the head as well as they are usually about 50% duty cycle.<br />
*Replacement switch blades and high voltage contacts<br />
<br />
'''Solid State Machines'''<br />
<br />
*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a generic replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.<br />
*Replacement leaf blades and gold flashed contacts<br />
*TIP-102 Transistors<br />
*IN4004 Diodes<br />
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most versatile)<br />
<br />
=Tools of the Trade=<br />
<br />
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.<br />
<br />
==Mechanical Tools==<br />
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches<br />
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy<br />
*Nut driver set, which should include<br />
**1/4" nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts<br />
**5/16 nut driver - used for #6 nuts<br />
**11/32 nut driver - #8 nuts<br />
**3/8 nut driver - used for #10 nuts<br />
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts<br />
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. <br />
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.<br />
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.<br />
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.<br />
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.<br />
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.<br />
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench<br />
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts<br />
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench<br />
*Pliers<br />
*High-brightness LED flashlight<br />
*Magnetic pickup tool<br />
*Magnetic parts dish<br />
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)<br />
<br />
== Electrical Tools ==<br />
<br />
*A few alligator clip leads for testing<br />
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.<br />
*Side cutters<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.<br />
*For Connector Work<br />
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...<br />
**Connector pin pusher .093"<br />
**Connector pin pusher .062"<br />
<br />
'''Molex Crimper Styles'''<br />
<br />
[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]<br />
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. <br />
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<br />
'''Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.<br />
<br />
Portable:<br />
<br />
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.<br />
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)<br><br />
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)<br><br />
<br />
There is also a type of cordless battery powered iron referred to as "cold heat" - these do not work well for any pinball application, due to the lack of control over the quality of the solder joint produced. Avoid these for pinball work.<br />
<br />
Corded:<br />
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)<br><br />
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)<br><br />
*Weller W60P (temperature controlled)<br><br />
Station:<br />
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)<br />
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)<br />
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)<br />
<br />
'''Advanced Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
The move to lead-free manufacturing forced manufacturers to solder at a more tightly controlled, lower temperature. This requirement led to new irons that can deliver lots of heat, quickly. They have heat-up times of less than 10 seconds, and can solder larger joints than conventional irons. They have tips with built-in elements and temperature sensors. The tips show up on eBay, new and used. They are relatively expensive ($10 - $30) but last longer than regular tips. Expect to spend $200 - $400 to kit up with one of these (eBay). They are valuable if you do board work, as the fast heat delivery means the solder melts without overheating the pad. <br />
<br />
Metcal has been making these new irons for some time, so the systems are relatively common on eBay. <br />
<br />
<br />
Metcal MX-500P<br />
JBC - these irons really do heat up in 2 seconds (20W handpiece)<br />
Hakko FM series<br />
Weller WXT series<br />
<br />
Ersa, Goot, Pace<br />
<br />
==Desoldering Tools==<br />
<br />
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.<br />
<br />
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.<br />
<br />
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.<br />
<br />
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.<br />
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.<br />
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.<br />
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use<br />
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.<br />
<br />
==Rework Solder Stations==<br />
<br />
*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) <br><br />
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder extractor)<br />
*Aoyue 2703A+ SMD repair & rework. Has soldering iron w/vacuum suction, desoldering gun, and hot air gun.<br />
<br />
==EM Tools==<br />
[[file:SwitchTools.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Leaf switch tools|1) Ignition points file for Tungsten contacts <br>2) Flexstone <br>3) Vendor supplied leaf switch adjustment tool <br>4) Homemade switch adjustment tool <br>5) Push-pull spring tool]]<br><br><br />
*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.<br />
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.<br />
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Cleaning & Restoration Supplies==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Product<br />
!Uses<br />
!Where to get<br />
<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 1<br />
|Light cleaning of plastics and playfield. Dust/dirt removal<br />
|grocery store?<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 2<br />
|General cleaning and polishing of plastics and playfield.<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 3<br />
|Cleaning for metal parts only<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Millwax<br />
|Not recommended for most playfields, except when?<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|90% isopropyl alcohol<br />
|Cleaning PCB boards. Evaporates quickly.<br />
|drug store (CVS, etc)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Deoxit contact cleaner<br />
|electrical contact deoxidizer<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Carnauba wax<br />
|playfield waxing<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Simple green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning, degreaser<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Mean green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Bleche white<br />
|wire assembly<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Krylon Triple Thick<br />
|backglass sealant<br />
|pinrestore.com, bigdaddyenterprises.com<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Lubrication==<br />
In nearly every instance, lubrication should not be used. The exceptions are metal on metal mechanical points (stepper unit pivot points, stepper unit wipers, and the pivot points of '''very few''' mechanical assys.). Although Williams stated to use graphite powder for lubrication on coil plungers where aluminum or brass coil sleeves were used, it is best to just replace the metal coil sleeves with new nylon sleeves ('''Note:''' some brass coil sleeves are integral to the coil's winding, and are not removeable). A general rule of thumb is where metal makes contact with plastic, lubrication is not needed. However, if lubrication is necessary, Super Lube Teflon gel is a very good product to use. However, it should be used very sparingly. When in doubt, under lubrication is better than over lubrication.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:WD-40 01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WD-40 needs no introduction]]<br><br><br><br />
[[File:WD-40 Coin Door.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Removal of Coin Door Sticker Residue with WD-40]]<br><br><br><br />
'''In no instance should WD-40 be used as a lubricant!''' WD-40 is a great product, but should used as intended. It can be used for breaking apart seized screws, bolts, or associated mechanisms, but should thoroughly be cleaned off once a unit has been disassembled.<br><br />
<br />
There is one other good use for WD-40 regarding pinball machines. Coin door stickers, operator stickers on aprons, and game permit stickers all tend to make their way onto pinball machines. WD-40 is a very good product which can be used to remove sticker residue.<br />
It also makes an excellent hand cleaner.<br />
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<br />
==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==<br />
<font color=red>In work</font><br />
<br />
=Preparing Printed Circuit Cards (PCBs) for Shipping or Storage=<br />
<br />
[[Image:PCBWrappedInFoilResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Williams DMD Controller prepared for shipment, wrapped in aluminum foil. This method is a reasonable alternative when an ESD safe bag isn't available.]]<br><br />
Pinball boards (PCBs) are sensitive to Electro-Static Discharge (ESD). Static electricity that builds up in your body or via packaging material that rubs together can "shock" the sensitive components on a PCB, damaging them in doing so.<br />
<br />
Board repair techs go through great pains to ground themselves while working on PCBs.<br />
<br />
If you need to store or to ship a PCB, enclose it in an ESD safe bag. If a bag isn't available, wrap the board in aluminum foil. Both will protect the board from ESD.<br />
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<br />
=How to Twist Wires Together Neatly=<br />
Easy as Pie...<br />
#Chuck both wires in a slow speed drill<br />
#Hold other end firmly<br />
#Engage, and watch with amazement as the wires neatly twist around each-other.<br />
As you can see from the results below, this old technique yields excellent results.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="How to neatly twist two (or more) wires together"><br />
File:WireWindingStart.jpg|<center>Chuck the wires</center><br />
File:WireWindingEnd.jpg|<center>End result</center><br />
File:WireWindingDetail.jpg|<center>End result detail. Nice...</center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
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<br />
=Soldering=<br />
<br />
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering. <br />
<br />
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!<br />
<br />
==Equipment and Supplies==<br />
<br />
===The basic soldering iron===<br />
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. One example is the Weller WESD-51.<br />
<br />
===Tip Cleaner===<br />
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.<br />
<br />
===Solder===<br />
There are three things that matter with solder. <br />
<br />
The diameter. In pinball, .031" is a good general purpose size. Thicker, and you'll be blobbing everywhere except on the biggest joints. Thinner, and it takes a lot of solder to feed a joint.<br />
<br />
The alloy, typically tin-lead, expressed as something like 63/37, which means 63% tin and 37% lead. For pinball, 63/37 is the best overall alloy. The common 60/40 is a shade cheaper, but isn't as good. In particular, it goes through a pasty mode before it hardens. If it is moved while pasty, you can get a bad joint. You can use 60/40, but 63/37 is more reliable. You won't like lead-free solder, as it has to be hotter and does not flow as well. Plus, even good joints look frosty. <br />
<br />
The flux, which might be rosin, no-clean or water soluble. You don't want water soluble, as it can leave an acid residue if not washed. No clean is nice, as it doesn't leave blobs of flux hanging on a joint. Rosin, the classic flux, is aggressive and effective, but leaves joints dirty and should be cleaned with alcohol. <br />
<br />
So you will want one of these two:<br />
- Rosin-core .031 63/37 (e.g. Kester 2463370026). This is super easy to use and will get you the best joints (AKA Kester 44)<br />
- No-clean .031 6337 (e.g. Kester 2463378801). Easy to use, no cleaning needed. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
A wide range of solders are available. Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. For completing clean "OEM-like" solder joints, a "no clean" solder like Kester .031 diameter 63/37 no-clean solder, Kester part number 24-6337-5400, can be used. As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. Here is one supplier of Kester "no-clean" solder: [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life] '''Under no circumstances should Acid-core (plumbing) solder be used anywhere on a pinball machine.'''<br />
<br />
===Optional Equipment===<br />
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.<br />
<br />
==Soldering wires==<br />
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything. <br />
<br />
Here are the simple steps:<br />
<br />
#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.<br />
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.<br />
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.<br />
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool. <br />
<br />
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts through the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or "hemo-stats" are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, you may have created what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.<br />
<br />
'''Things to Know'''<br />
<br />
*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and the solder joint will be unreliable.<br />
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. Once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.<br />
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that threading the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.<br />
<br />
== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==<br />
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.<br><br />
<br />
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are delicate and can become damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied for too long, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult. It is better to use more heat for less time than less heat for more time.<br><br />
<br />
When the replacement of a chip is necessary, it is recommended to use a chip socket (in most all instances - there are some exceptions), versus soldering a replacement chip directly onto the circuit board. The reasoning is two-fold:<br />
<br />
# Adding a chip socket reduces the amount of heat applied to a circuit board in the future should the same chip fail.<br />
# If the same chip does fail, replacement of the chip will be much easier.<br />
<br />
When soldering a chip socket in place, skipping from side to side for subsequent joints or skipping every other pin as you solder can help alleviate the risk of heating up a small part of the board, causing lifted pads and traces. A good solderer with the proper equipment can solder a 40 pin chip socket into place on a PCB in about 2 minutes.<br><br />
<br />
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Socket check work.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Testing for (lack of) continuity between chip socket positions]]<br><br />
After a chip socket has been soldered onto a board, it is equally a good practice to check for continuity between the socket pin and the adjoining circuitry, and discontinuity between adjacent socket positions. If there isn't continuity between the chip socket and its associated circuits, check / inspect the work performed. Likewise, if there is continuity between neighboring chip socket positions, check for excess solder or foreign material creating a conductive bridge between the two.<br><br />
<br />
'''Note:''' in some cases, a PCB has traces or pads intentionally tied together between adjacent chip sockets. Consult the schematics of the particular board being worked on to verify if this is the case, when two sockets are determined to have continuity.<br />
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<br />
=== Bending Discrete Through-hole Components ===<br />
[[File:BendingThroughHoleComponents.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to bend through-hole components using a drop target.]]<br><br />
An easy way to bend resistors, capacitors, etc to length when replacing them is to use a popsicle stick or an old drop target, as pictured at left. Bend the leads around the target. This works well for many older game systems like Bally -17/-35, Williams, etc.<br />
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<br />
===Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"===<br />
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.<br />
<br />
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.<br />
<br />
[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]]<br><br />
'''Procedure''':<br><br />
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".<br><br />
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough.<br><br />
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.<br><br />
#Solder the first side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place.<br><br />
#All done!<br />
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<br />
===Using an old Socket to Align SIPs and Headers===<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionSIPs.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Using a socket to align SIP (Single Inline Package) machine pin socket strips.]]<br><br />
Using an old socket to position two SIPs perfectly is easy, as shown in the picture at left.<br />
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<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionHeaders.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to align header pins across two header strips.]]<br><br />
Likewise, an old socket can be used to position headers perfectly in line when more than one header strip is used/needed.<br />
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<br />
=Desoldering=<br />
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each<br />
<br />
Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts<br />
<br />
=DIP (Dual In-line Package) Pin Numbering Convention=<br />
[[File:Dip14pins.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DIP 14 pin]]<br>The diagram at left shows standard pin numbering for integrated circuits. Pin #1 is always located at the chips "dot" or if not dot, immediately to the left of the chips "notch". The pin "legs" are then numbered sequentially around the chip counter-clockwise. This convention is observed for DIP packages of all sizes. <br />
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<br />
=Testing an integrated circuit=<br />
<br />
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.<br />
<br />
This test works for many 74XX series ICs.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]<br />
'''Procedure''':<br />
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test. <br />
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".<br />
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if testing multiple chips on the same board.<br />
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
'''Interpreting the results:'''<br />
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.<br><br />
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.<br><br />
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.<br><br />
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.<br />
*Comparing your results against results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
Readings outside of this range may indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.<br />
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<br />
=Testing fuses=<br />
<br />
[[File:BuzzingAFuseTheWrongWay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An example of why you MUST remove a fuse to "buzz" it. This '''empty''' fuse holder is for the GI circuit in a Williams game. The meter is showing continuity with no fuse present. The meter is finding a path back through the transformer secondary.]]<br><br />
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.<br />
<br />
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".<br />
<br />
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading, as shown in the picture at left. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.<br />
<br />
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job of being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.<br />
<br />
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.<br />
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<br />
=Testing a Bridge Rectifier=<br />
<br />
''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.''<br />
<br />
[[File:TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Four Connections to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.]]<br><br />
The picture at left illustrates the 4 readings to be taken when testing a bridge rectifier.<br />
<br />
'''Procedure:'''<br />
<br />
#Place your DMM into "diode test". <br />
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge. <br />
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes). <br />
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge <br />
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen. <br />
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<br />
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit. This part of the bridge is good.]]<br> <br />
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc). <br />
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<br />
=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red><need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on FETs></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on SCRs></font><br><br />
<br />
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used except for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. <br />
<br />
When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own. <br />
<br />
<br />
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)<br />
<br />
[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:<br />
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right<br />
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC<br />
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE<br />
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)<br />
<br />
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.<br />
<br />
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.<br><br />
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''.<br><br />
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).<br><br />
'''Note: A transistor can "test" good and still be bad!!'''<br><br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the red lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the black lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-A13''' transistor.<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-U45''' transistor (or '''NDS-U45''' or '''CEN-U45''' which are equivalents).<br />
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
=Testing a coil=<br />
<br />
If a drive transistor shorts, providing an unintended path to ground for power at a solenoid, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil winding gets hot enough, it will burn through the protective coating on the winding, shorting adjacently wound wires and reducing the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the failed driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged immediately after power on.<br />
<br />
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is wise to check each coil's resistance '''*before*''' switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it! Even examining each coil in the game for burned coil wrappers may help identify a shorted coil.<br />
<br />
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power winding and a hold winding. These are easily identified as they have three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.<br />
<br />
==Testing resistance==<br />
To test a coil's resistance:<br />
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs. <br />
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. Note: Some flipper coils will read less than 2 ohms but still be fine.<br />
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (i.e. the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or drive transistor issue. <br />
<br />
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before powering the game on again.<br />
<br />
==Testing for coil power==<br />
With the machine powered on:<br />
* set your DMM to DC<br />
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one). <br />
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-75v.<br />
<br />
Please note that some games have a coin door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids.<br />
<br />
==Testing the coil diode==<br />
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.<br />
<br />
To test a coil diode:<br />
<br />
* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.<br />
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.<br />
* Place the black lead on the banded side.<br />
* Place the red lead on the non-banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.<br />
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'<br />
<br />
==Testing the driver transistors==<br />
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=Basic Sound Troubleshooting=<br />
Regardless of the manufacturer, there are some simple steps to follow if no sound is present. Below are the steps from simplest to more complicated.<br />
<br />
# Make sure the speaker is properly connected. If female crimp spade connectors are used on the wiring connecting to the speaker terminals, it is not uncommon for the connectors to come loose or even break. If the leads to the speakers are soldered onto the speaker terminals, make certain the wires are soldered well by gently tugging on the wires.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the speaker is good. If no sound is coming out of the speaker, not even a hum when the volume pot is turned up, check to see if the speaker is not blown. For what it is worth, even a speaker with a ripped cone can put out some sound in most cases. The sound may be distorted, but it should be present. There are two ways to test a speaker. The safest way is to hook an ohmmeter up to the two speaker leads, and see if the resistance equals the impedance of the speaker. Most, if not all speakers in pinball machines are either 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The other method for testing a speaker is to hook a 9v battery up to the speaker leads. Prior to hooking up a battery, it is important to disconnect the speaker outputs on the sound board. This will isolate the speaker from the sound board completely. Once the battery is hooked up, the speaker cone should either pull in or flex out, depending on how the battery's polarity was connected to the speaker. '''Do not allow the battery to be connected to the speaker for very long'''.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume potentiometer (pot) is properly connected, if one is used (newer machines like WMS WPC, Stern / Sega White Star, and stern SAM systems use digital potentiometers). If turning the volume pot up does not result in any sound, turn the pot the opposite direction. If no mechanical pot is used, skip the next step.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume pot is good. Using an ohmmeter. connect the leads to the volume pot, and turn the pot back in forth. When the pot is turned completely one way, it should read close to zero ohms (full volume). When turned the opposite direction, the reading should be close to the value of what the pot's rating (pots in pinball machines roughly range from 5 kohms to 25 kohms depending on the manufacturer). Pots sometime develop "dead spots". When the pot is turned from its lowest setting (highest resistance value) to its highest setting (0 ohm resistance), the resistance value should slowly decrease. While turning the pot, if the value spikes to 0 and resumes to a higher value than 0, the pot has a dead spot. TV tuner cleaner can be used to sometimes rectify this problem. Even exercising the pot back and forth can resolve dead spots in a pinch.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the output connections on the sound board are good. If the sound board in question has header pins on the output to the speaker / volume pot, check for cracked header joints. Short of a visual inspection with the board removed from the game, try wiggling the output connector. This does not definitely prove that there are cracked header joints, but it shows that either the headers or the harness connector is at fault. Additionally, check for bad connectors inside the speaker output housing connection. If the sound board in question uses edge finger connections, check the edge connector inside the housing of the output to the speaker. In either case, if the output harness uses an insulation displacement connector (IDC), check to make sure the wires are securely seated inside the connector of the housing.<br><br><br />
#In some but not all instances, sound boards use a 5-legged amplifier with a heat sink attached. Sound boards with this type of amp may have cracked solder joints at the legs of the amp. If gently wiggling the amps heat sink makes sound cut in and out, suspect cracked solder joints on the legs of the amp.<br><br />
<br />
Remaining issues are typically sound board specific. Please review the appropriate repair pages regarding the sound board in question.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=<br />
Need to cover...<br><br />
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)<br><br />
SOIC to DIP adapters<br><br />
<br />
==Resistor Networks==<br />
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations"><br />
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Bussed Resistor Network</b></center><br />
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Isolated Resistor Network</b></center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.<br />
<br />
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1.<br><br />
<font color=Red><need a picture of this></font><br />
<br />
=The Switch Matrix=<br />
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.<br />
<br />
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required. <br />
<br />
<u>'''How a switch matrix works'''</u><br />
<br />
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.<br />
<br />
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse). <br />
<br />
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.<br><br />
<br />
<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Switch Matrix IN WORK=<br />
<youtube v="Bo3wVuyJtXA" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<youtube v="rNx2D6KeAxQ" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:NormalSwitchMatrixOperation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Normal Switch Matrix Operation]]<br />
[[Image:ShortedDiodeFailureInSwitchMatrix.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Implications of a Shorted Diode in the Switch Matrix]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=General Illumination=<br />
<br />
General Illumination is lighting that switches on (generally) when game power is turned on. Some general illumination circuits are switched on by an electromechanical relay (EM games, Williams System 11, and all eras of solid state Gottlieb games for instance). Some GI circuits are controlled by the MPU (WPC games). General illumination lamps are essentially the same as Christmas tree lights. They come on when power is applied.<br />
<br />
[[File:SST-GIModification.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Underside of Starship Troopers playfield showing mod to top lane guide GI lamp installation.]]<br><br><br />
Some GI sockets are very difficult to get to, like in Sega's Starship Troopers. One way to ease the job is to get at the lamps from under the playfield where possible. This requires a small modification to your game and some short wood screws. In the picture at left, the OEM staples have been removed and replaced with a standard pinball target screw. One screw is really enough since the lamp isn't going anywhere. To replace a lamp, simply remove the screw, pull the socket, replace the lamp, and reinstall. Make certain the length of the screw will not protrude through the top of the playfield. Those who prefer the look of LEDs should consider using LEDs in these tough to reach places.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=The Lamp Matrix=<br />
<br />
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.<br />
<br />
All EM's control lamps with switches on relay stacks, or wipers on disc units.<br />
<br />
'''How the lamp matrix works'''<br />
<br />
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.<br />
<br />
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.<br />
<br />
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''<br />
<br />
#Fewer wires<br />
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp matrix problems'''<br />
<br />
#Single lamp out<br />
#Single lamp locked on<br />
#multiple lamps in a row<br />
#multiple lamps in a column<br />
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not<br />
<br />
'''Typical causes'''<br />
<br />
#Wiring shorts<br />
#Shorted diode(s)<br />
<br />
=How coils, flashers, and motors are turned on=<br />
<br />
In most machines, every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at all coil lugs. Exceptions are...<br><br />
*Williams System 11 and Data East/Sega games which have an A/C (side) select relay that switches power between two banks...a bank of coils and a bank of flashers.<br />
*Flipper coils on Data East games that use the Solid State Flipper Board. The SSFB provides power to the coils only after the cabinet flipper button switch is closed.<br />
<br />
[[File:CoilPowerDiagram.jpg|400px|left|thumb|A simple representation of how power is always present at all coil lugs, waiting to "find ground" via a switch. Solid state pinball machines use transistors to "switch" power to ground (a TIP-102 transistor for instance)]]<br><br />
If you set your DMM to DC voltage, place the black lead of your DMM on game ground such as the ground braid or the side rail, and place the red lead of your DMM on either coil lug, you should read nominal coil voltage (exactly what voltage level depends on the game system). Your DMM reads the voltage at both/all coil lugs because, when the coil is off, there is no current through the coil to cause a voltage drop. Power present at one coil lug is guaranteed to be present at the other coil lug unless the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is disconnected from the lug.<br />
<br />
Referencing the diagram at left, placing the red probe of your DMM at any point labeled "P", and the black lead of your DMM on game ground (labeled "G"), should read nominal coil voltage.<br />
<br />
All that is required for the coil to "fire" is for the ground lug of the coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor, or by closing a switch that creates a path to ground. <br />
<br />
Note that this also a good example of how to test a coil, and the power circuit. Grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly. If the coil does not fire, then either the coil is not receiving power, or the coil winding has a break in it, or the coil winding is not attached securely to the coil's solder tab(s).<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Flippers=<br />
<br />
;How does a flipper work?<br />
:Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the coil to overheat or the fuse to blow. Note that it takes less power to hold the flipper up than it does to pull the plunger in for the initial flip due to the effect the metal plunger has on what is initially an air-core coil.<br />
<br />
;High Voltage flipper operation<br />
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.<br />
<br />
:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.<br />
<br />
:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.<br />
<br />
:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.<br />
<br />
;Solid State Flipper operation<br />
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.<br />
<br />
:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.<br />
<br />
:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.<br />
<br />
;Summary of EOS switch function for various types of games<br />
*EM: EOS switch shorts hold winding until flipper is actuated. This allows the power coil to provide full strength during the flipper movement but switch over to the lower power hold winding at the end of movement. In reality, both the power and hold coils are in series during hold operation.<br />
*Data East: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40 ms) switch-over from 50V to 8V for hold operation. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. See Maverick game manual page 90 for theory of operation. <br />
*Stern: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40ms) switchover to 1ms pulses every 12ms to hold the coil up. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. For a description of Stern flipper operation, see [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/BATMAN_SGM/BATMAN_SEC5_CHP2.pdf Stern Batman TDK Manual Section 5 Chapter 2 Page 106]<br />
*Williams: Fliptronic board provides CPU-controlled coil drivers for the flippers. When EOS switch closes power is switched to the hold winding. Williams WPC flipper problems are discussed in the [[Williams_WPC#Flipper_Problems]] section.<br />
<br />
==Weak Flippers - What to check==<br />
[[File:CoilSleeveWithInternalRingResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn coil sleeve, with an internal "ring" worn into it. This ring prevented the plunger from being fully pulled in.]]<br><br />
There are many problems that can lead to weak flippers. Some flipper problems are unique to EM games, but there are many problems common to both EM and SS games.<br />
Problems can be either electrical or mechanical. Below is a list of items to check. General things to note are whether both flippers are weak or just one, if the flipper won't flip will it stay up if the bat is manually moved to the up position, and does the flipper bat move easily when moved by hand. The following list details problems that can cause weak flippers.<br />
<br />
#End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch dirty. <br>The power winding of a flipper coil is only a few ohms of resistance so it doesn't take too much added resistance in the EOS switch to degrade the flipper power. If an EOS switch is not making contact at all the flipper will likely not flip, but will hold if you manually actuate the flipper.<br />
#Flipper switch dirty. <br>For EM games, flipper power is provided through the flipper switch. Added resistance of a fouled switch can weaken flippers.<br />
#Coil sleeve worn or dirty. <br>Cleaning the coil plunger and sleeve will improve flipper performance. Some older games had metal sleeves that should be replaced with modern nylon sleeves. Even when wear can not be seen, replacing the coil sleeve often helps.<br />
#Coil stop or plunger mushroomed. <br>Coils operate best when there is a flat surface between the plunger end and the coil stop. A mushroomed coil stop or plunger can cause the flipper to buzz when held up.<br />
#Flipper spring too tight. <br>This can also result in noisy flippers when held up. The flipper spring should be adjusted so that it can barely return the flippers to their resting postion when the playfield is up.<br />
#Flipper bushing binding. <br>A worn flipper bushing or a misadjusted flipper bat can result in binding that impedes flipper movement. Make sure there is a small amount of vertical play in the flipper to prevent binding.<br />
#Hogged out fiber link. <br>Over time the holes in the flipper links can become elongated. The play in the flipper movement results in wasted coil movement and thus reduced flipper strength.<br />
#Power issues. <br>Make sure you are getting full voltage at the flipper coil. Usually a power problem will cause both flippers to be weak.<br />
#Drive transistor bad (SS only) <br>In solid state games it is possible to have a transistor that is bad but still somewhat operational. Usually the bad transistor will get noticeably hotter than other similar transistors.<br />
#Power Winding bad. <br>Coil failures are rare, but check from broken solder connections and broken coil wires at the coil lugs.<br />
<br />
=Changing Batteries=<br />
Solid state machines have batteries to save high score and setting information when the machine is powered off. Usually these are three AA batteries mounted on the CPU board. They should be changed annually to prevent leakage that will damage the CPU board.<br />
<br />
Batteries can be changed with the machine powered on so that settings are maintained. Some people recommend changing one battery at a time, but this is only to help ensure that the new batteries are installed with the correct polarity.<br />
<br />
The best thing you can do for your game is to install a remote battery holder, which moves the batteries completely off of the CPU board. See the specific game system section for instructions to perform this simple modification.<br />
<br />
=Coil Chart=<br />
<br />
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at<br />
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html<br />
<br />
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Chart=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Voltage (V)<br />
!Current(A)<br />
!Candle Power<br />
!Life (hours)<br />
!Base<br />
!Typical Use<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|44<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|47<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|55<br />
|7.0<br />
|.41<br />
|2.00<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47<br> '''Not a good replacement in pop bumpers or behind backglasses (too much heat generated)'''<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|63<br />
|7.0<br />
|.63<br />
|3.0<br />
|1,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Used in early Williams solid state games like Flash.<br> Found in Williams games as late as High Speed; typically installed in series<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|67<br />
|13.5<br />
|.59<br />
|4.0<br />
|5,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Exclusively used as flash lamps on Gottlieb (Premier) games<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|73<br />
|14.0<br />
|.80<br />
|.30<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|86<br />
|6.3<br />
|.20<br />
|.40<br />
|20,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism;Gottlieb Victory ramp chaser lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|89<br />
|13.0<br />
|.58<br />
|6.00<br />
|750<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|159<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.34<br />
|5000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the #555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|194<br />
|14.0<br />
|.27<br />
|2.00<br />
|1,500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Whitewater Topper Lamps<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (instrument panel / dash lamps)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|199<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.25<br />
|32.00<br />
|1500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Alternate for 1156 lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|313<br />
|28<br />
|0.17<br />
|3.5<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|447<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|455<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.5<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Blinker<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|545<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.31<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|555<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|906<br />
|13.0<br />
|.69<br />
|6.00<br />
|1000<br />
|T-5 Wedge<br />
|Flash Lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1156<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.1<br />
|32.00<br />
|1,200<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed II beacon lamp and Creature from the Black Lagoon hologram projection lamp<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (reverse and front turn signal lamp in some vehicles)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1251<br />
|28.0<br />
|.23<br />
|3.00<br />
|2,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1683<br />
|28.0<br />
|1.02<br />
|32.00<br />
|500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed, F-14 Tomcat, and Rescue 911 beacon lamps; Fire! flame tube projection lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1847<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.38<br />
|5,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Dimmer, longer lasting version of 47 bulb; for areas where vibration is a factor (pop bumpers, etc.)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.<br />
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.<br />
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.<br />
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)<br />
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter<br />
<br />
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Sockets=<br />
<br />
Some later games have illuminated buttons for start and possibly other functions. These are typically located on the front of the cabinet. Instructions on replacing the lamp in those switches can be found [http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/installation_illuminated.htm here].<br />
<br />
=Fuse Table=<br />
<br />
<center><font size="4">'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</font></center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center><br />
<br />
{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 5A<br />
| BR, DC coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 10A<br />
| Main, BR, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|- align="left"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils-under PF<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Displays<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Service outlet<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Main line power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils, Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/16A<br />
| High Voltage on SDB<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Pop bumpers (Sys80/80A/80B), Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| Display power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main, coils, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 4A<br />
| 12v/5v power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB<br />
| PS, lamps, displays<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| 5A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 15A<br />
| General Illumination<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 20A<br />
| Switched Lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Display high voltage<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Power supply (displays)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB<br />
| Display driver board<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Aux board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Sound board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Power supply, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| 5v power (L7 games)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 20A<br />
| General illumination<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 1/10A<br />
| Cabinet, displays<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A <br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega &amp; New Stern'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| Display<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB<br />
| Display<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB<br />
| 12v PS F101<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Lamps, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB<br />
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Coils, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB<br />
| Switched lamps, line<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Line, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB<br />
| Coils main F108<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Power line, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T2.5A SB<br />
| Audio F501, F502<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Resistors=<br />
Resistors typically have a standard color coding scheme, (the exceptions are some power resistors which have the value and wattage inked on the resistor), which is used to identify the resistor's value and tolerance. The resistor's value and tolerance can be identified on this [http://samengstrom.com/24614782/en/read/4_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes?history=5107960,24614782 website] by clicking the appropriate color bands.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Game Software (ROMs)=<br />
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features. These home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case, it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]<br />
<br />
Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. DO NOT depend on the labels on the replacement roms "matching" a direction on your machine! ALWAYS check the orientation based on the notches. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement. <br />
<br />
Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.<br />
<br />
Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.<br />
<br />
=Counterfeit Integrated Circuits=<br />
<br />
[[File:MOS 6532.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bogus 6532 Chips]]<br />
As time passes, the need for through hole integrated circuits (IC chips) in current manufacturing decreases. Most consumable electronics today are using surface mount ICs. However, through hole ICs are what nearly 90% of all solid state pinball machines use on circuit boards. And as the need decreases, the price increases. Enter the counterfeiters. It may sound absurd, but there is a whole "underground" industry of counterfeit IC chips being created. How are they typically counterfeited? Old ICs are sourced, the top of the chip is either sanded or painted over with the correct identifiers as to what chip it is, and a new identifier is inked over. Some counterfeit chips are fairly obvious (see the pic to the left to view two sanded IC tops), while others are not so obvious.<br><br />
<br />
The moral to this is know who you are buying from. Avoid buying components from sellers who offer product at "too good to be true" prices. Some of these types of sellers peddle their product on eBay, and originate from the Far East. Keep in mind that even trusted sellers are not totally immune from counterfeit chips, but the really good sellers have a better grasp on reducing the sales of counterfeit chips from their inventory.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Tumbling Parts to Clean Them=<br />
[[File:TarnishedMetalPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A batch of playfield posts, etc from a Gottlieb Buckaroo.]]<br><br />
A quick way to shine a lot of metal parts is to use a "parts tumbler". (Technically, what is referred to in this section is a Vibrating Polisher - the name comes from a rock tumbler polisher, which can also be used but takes much longer.) Tumblers can typically be purchased at Bass Pro Shops as shooting enthusiasts use them to polish brass cartridges. One of the "old standards" is the [http://www.berrysmfg.com/product-i14546-c47-g8-b0-p0-400_Tumbler.aspx model 400 made by Berry's Manufacturing]. Crushed walnut shell media works well. It can be acquired at pet stores where it is sold as lizard bedding. For gentle less aggressive tumbling, use corn cob media. Additives such as "Flitz" or even a squirt of Novus 3 have been used to improve results. KIT Scratch Out also works very well for this application.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:TumbledBuckARooPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Ah yes...nice and shiny. These parts were tumbled for about 24 hours in crushed walnut shell media.]]<br><br />
Tumbling approaches the point of diminishing returns after about 24 hours. Tumbling past 24 hours doesn't yield much improvement.<br />
<br />
To remove the walnut shell media from flat-blade screws, a dental pick works well.<br><br />
To remove the media from Gottlieb "Speed Nuts" or Acorn Nuts, shake them inside a plastic container. The media falls right out.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=How to Properly File Switch Contacts=<br />
This is a stub<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
:Check the tightness of all under playfield mechanisms. It's not uncommon for mechanisms (even with lock nuts) to loosen up over time. Do not overtighten and strip out any holes, just snug them in. If you find any loose holes, repair with glue and toothpicks. Once everything is tight again, mechanism action will be crisper.<br />
<br />
==Leveling the Game==<br />
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting the Game Pitch==<br />
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.<br />
<br />
==Balls==<br />
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.<br />
<br />
:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting flippers==<br />
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.<br />
<br />
:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.<br />
<br />
:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.<br />
<br />
:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.<br />
<br />
:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting drop targets==<br />
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well). Take caution in cleaning the drop target face. If a face is stamped with artwork, most chemicals (even mild ones) will remove the artwork.<br />
<br />
:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.<br />
<br />
===Williams===<br />
:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.<br />
<br />
:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.<br />
<br />
:Later Williams' drop banks went to a two-spring design, one to pull the target down, and one coil spring to push the target forward on reset. This design started sometime around the Big Guns era. There's not a lot of adjustment needed in this type of target other than to clean them very well, and to ensure that the rubber grommets and the washer/screw combination are not too tight. They should be tightened just enough so the target will reset properly, but not so much that the target drops slowly. The weak points of this design are the ledge the drop targets rest on, and the studs used to hold the drop target reset coil stop. Originally, a small strip of tempered, spring steel was used for the ledge. This piece of spring steel was riveted to the drop target assy. frame. If it cracks or breaks, a single target or targets in the bank will not properly reset, as there is no ledge for them to rest in the up position. Williams realized this issue, and later versions of this type of drop target assy., somewhere around Earthshaker, were made with a replaceable ledge. Likewise, the coil stops were mounted with studs integrated into the drop target frame assy. These studs can snap off flush with the frame, allowing only one side or neither to hold the coil stop in place. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Gottlieb===<br />
:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their original design. There are 2 discrete springs used; one to pull the drops in the proper direction to reset correctly, and another to provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.<br />
<br />
:The 2-spring Gottlieb design changed during the system 80B era. This design change moved the reset coil from the outside of the drop target assy. to the underside, center of the assy. on small and single banks. Multiple reset coils were still used on banks larger than 4 targets. The benefit of the new design was less moving parts and a slightly smaller mounting footprint. However, the newer design eliminated the two spring design, and the smooth even stroke for the reset. While the targets still drop down smartly, on reset occasionally they will reset too high, or some targets will fail to reset, if the reset coil is not adjusted properly. Well beyond the time of the initial design change, some System 3 games use a combination of the old and new style drop target assys. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Bally===<br />
:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.<br />
<br />
:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place. Be sure any added shims don't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.<br />
<br />
:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.<br />
<br />
:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chiclet" style for over 25 years.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Stern (Classic)===<br />
:Classic Stern drops, commonly referred to as "chiclets", were originally similar to the Bally "tombstone" style, and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the playfield, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.<br />
<br />
:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking a pop bumper==<br />
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.<br />
<br />
:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.<br />
<br />
:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.<br />
<br />
:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.<br />
<br />
==Tuning a spinner==<br />
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.<br />
<br />
:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 2000 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.<br />
<br />
:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.<br />
<br />
:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.<br />
<br />
:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==<br />
:Most would ask why you would <b>want</b> to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.<br />
<br />
:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.<br />
<br />
:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.<br />
<br />
:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).<br />
<br />
:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.<br />
<br />
:Shaking a pinball is a part of the game, and possibly a greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.<br />
<br />
:Another trick is to ensure the playfield is attached solidly in some way to the cabinet. Older games have a metal clamping bracket in the cabinet to lock down the playfield, allowing better nudging action. Some older games use screws to attach the playfield to the cabinet. Metal hanger brackets used on newer machines take some of the nudging force away by allowing the playfield's suspension to absorb some of the force. A piece of cardboard folded and wedged at the playfield apron will help remove this factor and allowing more subtle shaking of the machine. This in turn will allow a tighter tilt if desired since the playfield will react to smaller nudges versus stock.<br />
<br />
==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==<br />
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).<br />
<br />
:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.<br />
<br />
:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.<br />
<br />
:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking lane guides==<br />
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.<br />
<br />
:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.<br />
<br />
:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size smaller than needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.<br />
<br />
:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.<br />
<br />
:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.<br />
<br />
:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or has its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.<br />
<br />
==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==<br />
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.<br />
<br />
:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.<br />
<br />
==Plungers==<br />
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.<br />
<br />
:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.<br />
<br />
:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a weak spring to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.<br />
<br />
==Coil Sleeves==<br />
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.<br />
<br />
:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid. If a coil plunger is particularly mushroomed, replace it.<br />
<br />
==Connectors and Soldering==<br />
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems. A steel or brass wire bottle brush of the appropriate size works well to clean Jones plugs, and you can get a very fine nylon bottle brush to clean the female connectors. Don't use a metal brush to clean the female side unless you're sure to find and clean up any broken brush strands.<br />
<br />
:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Make sure any wire management straps are being used to support the weight of the harness going into the cabinet instead of depending on the header pin to support all that weight. Resoldering the header pins will fix the cracking and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.<br />
<br />
:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.<br />
<br />
==Slingshots==<br />
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back. Replace the sling switches with new switches or replace just the blade if they have been bent and mangled from incorrect adjustments. It's easier but more expensive to replace the entire switch vs. getting the blade parts (blade parts alone are <$1.00, new switches anywhere from $2.75-$6.00 depending on bracket installed/not and vendor).<br />
<br />
:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.<br />
<br />
:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is threefold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling). Thirdly, they prevent a ball from working its way under the rubber and getting trapped in the triangle under the sling plastic.<br />
<br />
:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. Grasp the actuator arm and rock it slightly at a right angle to its normal activation arc to check for wear. You will usually see some lateral slop in a sling mechanism; if it's excessive power will be lost on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or use a small nylon washer to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).<br />
<br />
==Standup/stationary Targets==<br />
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent so the target leans backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.<br />
<br />
:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is breached or gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes. Inspect the switch blades that make up the target and straighten any out that are mangled.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General&diff=11206General2014-02-09T06:59:18Z<p>Mr: /* Solder */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.<br />
<br />
=Safety=<br />
==Grounded 3-Prong Plug==<br />
[[File:3Prong Clipped.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Typical "clipped" 3rd prong on plug]]<br><br />
If the earth ground prong of a 3-prong plug is clipped or missing, replace the plug. Many of these plugs were clipped, because some older locations where games were placed only had two-prong outlets. The 3rd prong connects the games electrical circuits to "earth ground". In place, it reduces the risk of shock and protects the user. If you have neighboring machines and you feel a "tingle" when you touch the metal rails on both, one or both machines have a missing ground prong.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter set on continuity to ensure that the ground pin is connected to all the metal touchable parts of the game - the rails, the coin door, the legs bolts, etc. Investigate any missing wires and correct. Older games that came without a ground plug should have one added. Attach the green ground wire to the metal frame of the game transformer. Connect ground wires to all touchable metal parts on the game.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Overfusing==<br />
[[File:BoltForAFuse.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The never blow, 1.21 GigaWatt fuse. Obviously, this is NOT recommended.]]<br><br />
Fuses are designed into your game's electrical circuitry to protect the circuits from damage should some component fail and begin to draw too much electrical current. They are designed to be the "weakest link" in the circuit. When too much current is drawn through the circuit, the fuse should be the first part of the circuit to fail.<br />
<br />
Although fuses sometimes fail due to old age or vibration, fuses usually fail for a reason. Locked on coils or flashers, direct shorts of power to ground, and many other reasons will cause a fuse to blow. If you replace a fuse, and it blows again, then you can be sure that something has gone awry.<br />
<br />
Always install fuses at the rating specified for your game. Installing a fuse rated higher than spec may cause some other part of the game circuitry to become the weakest link, and damage parts of the game that the fuse is designed to protect.<br />
<br />
Fuses are rated in terms of voltage and most importantly amps. Fuses are also designed as "fast blow" or "slow blow"/"time delayed blow". Typical sizes for pinball machines are 1.25 inches and 20mm.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Parts to have on hand=<br />
'''All Machines'''<br />
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.<br />
<br />
'''Electromechanical Machines'''<br />
*#455 "Blinker" type bulbs for backglass highlights. Helps with heat in the head as well as they are usually about 50% duty cycle.<br />
*Replacement switch blades and high voltage contacts<br />
<br />
'''Solid State Machines'''<br />
<br />
*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a generic replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.<br />
*Replacement leaf blades and gold flashed contacts<br />
*TIP-102 Transistors<br />
*IN4004 Diodes<br />
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most versatile)<br />
<br />
=Tools of the Trade=<br />
<br />
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.<br />
<br />
==Mechanical Tools==<br />
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches<br />
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy<br />
*Nut driver set, which should include<br />
**1/4" nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts<br />
**5/16 nut driver - used for #6 nuts<br />
**11/32 nut driver - #8 nuts<br />
**3/8 nut driver - used for #10 nuts<br />
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts<br />
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. <br />
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.<br />
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.<br />
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.<br />
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.<br />
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.<br />
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench<br />
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts<br />
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench<br />
*Pliers<br />
*High-brightness LED flashlight<br />
*Magnetic pickup tool<br />
*Magnetic parts dish<br />
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)<br />
<br />
== Electrical Tools ==<br />
<br />
*A few alligator clip leads for testing<br />
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.<br />
*Side cutters<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.<br />
*For Connector Work<br />
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...<br />
**Connector pin pusher .093"<br />
**Connector pin pusher .062"<br />
<br />
'''Molex Crimper Styles'''<br />
<br />
[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]<br />
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. <br />
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<br />
'''Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.<br />
<br />
Portable:<br />
<br />
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.<br />
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)<br><br />
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)<br><br />
<br />
There is also a type of cordless battery powered iron referred to as "cold heat" - these do not work well for any pinball application, due to the lack of control over the quality of the solder joint produced. Avoid these for pinball work.<br />
<br />
Corded:<br />
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)<br><br />
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)<br><br />
*Weller W60P (temperature controlled)<br><br />
Station:<br />
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)<br />
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)<br />
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)<br />
<br />
'''Advanced Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
The move to lead-free manufacturing forced manufacturers to solder at a more tightly controlled, lower temperature. This requirement led to new irons that can deliver lots of heat, quickly. They have heat-up times of less than 10 seconds, and can solder larger joints than conventional irons. They have tips with built-in elements and temperature sensors. The tips show up on eBay, new and used. They are relatively expensive ($10 - $30) but last longer than regular tips. Expect to spend $200 - $400 to kit up with one of these (eBay). They are valuable if you do board work, as the fast heat delivery means the solder melts without overheating the pad. <br />
<br />
Metcal has been making these new irons for some time, so the systems are relatively common on eBay. <br />
<br />
<br />
Metcal MX-500P<br />
JBC - these irons really do heat up in 2 seconds (20W handpiece)<br />
Hakko FM series<br />
Weller WXT series<br />
<br />
Ersa, Goot, Pace<br />
<br />
==Desoldering Tools==<br />
<br />
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.<br />
<br />
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.<br />
<br />
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.<br />
<br />
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.<br />
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.<br />
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.<br />
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use<br />
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.<br />
<br />
==Rework Solder Stations==<br />
<br />
*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) <br><br />
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder extractor)<br />
*Aoyue 2703A+ SMD repair & rework. Has soldering iron w/vacuum suction, desoldering gun, and hot air gun.<br />
<br />
==EM Tools==<br />
[[file:SwitchTools.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Leaf switch tools|1) Ignition points file for Tungsten contacts <br>2) Flexstone <br>3) Vendor supplied leaf switch adjustment tool <br>4) Homemade switch adjustment tool <br>5) Push-pull spring tool]]<br><br><br />
*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.<br />
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.<br />
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Cleaning & Restoration Supplies==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Product<br />
!Uses<br />
!Where to get<br />
<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 1<br />
|Light cleaning of plastics and playfield. Dust/dirt removal<br />
|grocery store?<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 2<br />
|General cleaning and polishing of plastics and playfield.<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Novus 3<br />
|Cleaning for metal parts only<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Millwax<br />
|Not recommended for most playfields, except when?<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|90% isopropyl alcohol<br />
|Cleaning PCB boards. Evaporates quickly.<br />
|drug store (CVS, etc)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Deoxit contact cleaner<br />
|electrical contact deoxidizer<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Carnauba wax<br />
|playfield waxing<br />
|<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Simple green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning, degreaser<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Mean green<br />
|Cabinet cleaning<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Bleche white<br />
|wire assembly<br />
|automotive<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|Krylon Triple Thick<br />
|backglass sealant<br />
|pinrestore.com, bigdaddyenterprises.com<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Lubrication==<br />
In nearly every instance, lubrication should not be used. The exceptions are metal on metal mechanical points (stepper unit pivot points, stepper unit wipers, and the pivot points of '''very few''' mechanical assys.). Although Williams stated to use graphite powder for lubrication on coil plungers where aluminum or brass coil sleeves were used, it is best to just replace the metal coil sleeves with new nylon sleeves ('''Note:''' some brass coil sleeves are integral to the coil's winding, and are not removeable). A general rule of thumb is where metal makes contact with plastic, lubrication is not needed. However, if lubrication is necessary, Super Lube Teflon gel is a very good product to use. However, it should be used very sparingly. When in doubt, under lubrication is better than over lubrication.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:WD-40 01.JPG|200px|thumb|left|WD-40 needs no introduction]]<br><br><br><br />
[[File:WD-40 Coin Door.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Removal of Coin Door Sticker Residue with WD-40]]<br><br><br><br />
'''In no instance should WD-40 be used as a lubricant!''' WD-40 is a great product, but should used as intended. It can be used for breaking apart seized screws, bolts, or associated mechanisms, but should thoroughly be cleaned off once a unit has been disassembled.<br><br />
<br />
There is one other good use for WD-40 regarding pinball machines. Coin door stickers, operator stickers on aprons, and game permit stickers all tend to make their way onto pinball machines. WD-40 is a very good product which can be used to remove sticker residue.<br />
It also makes an excellent hand cleaner.<br />
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<br />
==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==<br />
<font color=red>In work</font><br />
<br />
=Preparing Printed Circuit Cards (PCBs) for Shipping or Storage=<br />
<br />
[[Image:PCBWrappedInFoilResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Williams DMD Controller prepared for shipment, wrapped in aluminum foil. This method is a reasonable alternative when an ESD safe bag isn't available.]]<br><br />
Pinball boards (PCBs) are sensitive to Electro-Static Discharge (ESD). Static electricity that builds up in your body or via packaging material that rubs together can "shock" the sensitive components on a PCB, damaging them in doing so.<br />
<br />
Board repair techs go through great pains to ground themselves while working on PCBs.<br />
<br />
If you need to store or to ship a PCB, enclose it in an ESD safe bag. If a bag isn't available, wrap the board in aluminum foil. Both will protect the board from ESD.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=How to Twist Wires Together Neatly=<br />
Easy as Pie...<br />
#Chuck both wires in a slow speed drill<br />
#Hold other end firmly<br />
#Engage, and watch with amazement as the wires neatly twist around each-other.<br />
As you can see from the results below, this old technique yields excellent results.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="How to neatly twist two (or more) wires together"><br />
File:WireWindingStart.jpg|<center>Chuck the wires</center><br />
File:WireWindingEnd.jpg|<center>End result</center><br />
File:WireWindingDetail.jpg|<center>End result detail. Nice...</center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Soldering=<br />
<br />
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering. <br />
<br />
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!<br />
<br />
==Equipment and Supplies==<br />
<br />
===The basic soldering iron===<br />
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. One example is the Weller WESD-51.<br />
<br />
===Tip Cleaner===<br />
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.<br />
<br />
===Solder===<br />
There are three things that matter with solder. <br />
<br />
The diameter. In pinball, .031" is a good general purpose size. Thicker, and you'll be blobbing everywhere except on the biggest joints. Thinner, and it takes a lot of solder to feed a joint.<br />
<br />
The alloy, typically tin-lead, expressed as something like 63/37, which means 63% tin and 37% lead. For pinball, 63/37 is the best overall alloy. The common 60/40 is a shade cheaper, but isn't as good. In particular, it goes through a pasty mode before it hardens. If it is moved while pasty, you can get a bad joint. You can use 60/40, but 63/37 is more reliable. You won't like lead-free solder, as it has to be hotter and does not flow as well. Plus, even good joints look frosty. <br />
<br />
The flux, which might be rosin, no-clean or water soluble. You don't want water soluble, as it can leave an acid residue if not washed. No clean is nice, as it doesn't leave blobs of flux hanging on a joint. Rosin, the classic flux, is aggressive and effective, but leaves joints dirty and should be cleaned with alcohol. <br />
<br />
So you will want one of these two:<br />
- Rosin-core .031 63/37 (e.g. Kester 2463370026). This is super easy to use and will get you the best joints (AKA Kester 44)<br />
- No-clean .031 6337<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
A wide range of solders are available. Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. For completing clean "OEM-like" solder joints, a "no clean" solder like Kester .031 diameter 63/37 no-clean solder, Kester part number 24-6337-5400, can be used. As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. Here is one supplier of Kester "no-clean" solder: [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life] '''Under no circumstances should Acid-core (plumbing) solder be used anywhere on a pinball machine.'''<br />
<br />
===Optional Equipment===<br />
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.<br />
<br />
==Soldering wires==<br />
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything. <br />
<br />
Here are the simple steps:<br />
<br />
#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.<br />
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.<br />
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.<br />
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool. <br />
<br />
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts through the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or "hemo-stats" are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, you may have created what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.<br />
<br />
'''Things to Know'''<br />
<br />
*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and the solder joint will be unreliable.<br />
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. Once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.<br />
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that threading the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.<br />
<br />
== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==<br />
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.<br><br />
<br />
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are delicate and can become damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied for too long, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult. It is better to use more heat for less time than less heat for more time.<br><br />
<br />
When the replacement of a chip is necessary, it is recommended to use a chip socket (in most all instances - there are some exceptions), versus soldering a replacement chip directly onto the circuit board. The reasoning is two-fold:<br />
<br />
# Adding a chip socket reduces the amount of heat applied to a circuit board in the future should the same chip fail.<br />
# If the same chip does fail, replacement of the chip will be much easier.<br />
<br />
When soldering a chip socket in place, skipping from side to side for subsequent joints or skipping every other pin as you solder can help alleviate the risk of heating up a small part of the board, causing lifted pads and traces. A good solderer with the proper equipment can solder a 40 pin chip socket into place on a PCB in about 2 minutes.<br><br />
<br />
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Socket check work.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Testing for (lack of) continuity between chip socket positions]]<br><br />
After a chip socket has been soldered onto a board, it is equally a good practice to check for continuity between the socket pin and the adjoining circuitry, and discontinuity between adjacent socket positions. If there isn't continuity between the chip socket and its associated circuits, check / inspect the work performed. Likewise, if there is continuity between neighboring chip socket positions, check for excess solder or foreign material creating a conductive bridge between the two.<br><br />
<br />
'''Note:''' in some cases, a PCB has traces or pads intentionally tied together between adjacent chip sockets. Consult the schematics of the particular board being worked on to verify if this is the case, when two sockets are determined to have continuity.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=== Bending Discrete Through-hole Components ===<br />
[[File:BendingThroughHoleComponents.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to bend through-hole components using a drop target.]]<br><br />
An easy way to bend resistors, capacitors, etc to length when replacing them is to use a popsicle stick or an old drop target, as pictured at left. Bend the leads around the target. This works well for many older game systems like Bally -17/-35, Williams, etc.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"===<br />
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.<br />
<br />
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.<br />
<br />
[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]]<br><br />
'''Procedure''':<br><br />
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".<br><br />
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough.<br><br />
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.<br><br />
#Solder the first side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place.<br><br />
#All done!<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===Using an old Socket to Align SIPs and Headers===<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionSIPs.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Using a socket to align SIP (Single Inline Package) machine pin socket strips.]]<br><br />
Using an old socket to position two SIPs perfectly is easy, as shown in the picture at left.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:UsingAnOldSocketToPositionHeaders.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A convenient way to align header pins across two header strips.]]<br><br />
Likewise, an old socket can be used to position headers perfectly in line when more than one header strip is used/needed.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Desoldering=<br />
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each<br />
<br />
Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts<br />
<br />
=DIP (Dual In-line Package) Pin Numbering Convention=<br />
[[File:Dip14pins.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DIP 14 pin]]<br>The diagram at left shows standard pin numbering for integrated circuits. Pin #1 is always located at the chips "dot" or if not dot, immediately to the left of the chips "notch". The pin "legs" are then numbered sequentially around the chip counter-clockwise. This convention is observed for DIP packages of all sizes. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Testing an integrated circuit=<br />
<br />
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.<br />
<br />
This test works for many 74XX series ICs.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]<br />
'''Procedure''':<br />
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test. <br />
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".<br />
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if testing multiple chips on the same board.<br />
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
'''Interpreting the results:'''<br />
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.<br><br />
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.<br><br />
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.<br><br />
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.<br />
*Comparing your results against results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
Readings outside of this range may indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.<br />
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<br />
=Testing fuses=<br />
<br />
[[File:BuzzingAFuseTheWrongWay.jpg|200px|thumb|left|An example of why you MUST remove a fuse to "buzz" it. This '''empty''' fuse holder is for the GI circuit in a Williams game. The meter is showing continuity with no fuse present. The meter is finding a path back through the transformer secondary.]]<br><br />
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.<br />
<br />
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".<br />
<br />
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading, as shown in the picture at left. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.<br />
<br />
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job of being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.<br />
<br />
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.<br />
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<br />
=Testing a Bridge Rectifier=<br />
<br />
''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.''<br />
<br />
[[File:TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Four Connections to Test a Bridge Rectifier. Black/Red dots represent test lead positions.]]<br><br />
The picture at left illustrates the 4 readings to be taken when testing a bridge rectifier.<br />
<br />
'''Procedure:'''<br />
<br />
#Place your DMM into "diode test". <br />
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge. <br />
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes). <br />
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge <br />
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time. <br />
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen. <br />
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<br />
[[File:TestingBridgeRectifier.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a Bridge Rectifier in circuit. This part of the bridge is good.]]<br> <br />
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc). <br />
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<br />
=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red><need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on FETs></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on SCRs></font><br><br />
<br />
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used except for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. <br />
<br />
When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own. <br />
<br />
<br />
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)<br />
<br />
[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:<br />
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right<br />
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC<br />
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE<br />
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)<br />
<br />
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.<br />
<br />
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.<br><br />
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''.<br><br />
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).<br><br />
'''Note: A transistor can "test" good and still be bad!!'''<br><br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the red lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the black lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-A13''' transistor.<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg (viewing the component side of the board). That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
Testing an '''MPS-U45''' transistor (or '''NDS-U45''' or '''CEN-U45''' which are equivalents).<br />
#Measure on the solder side of the board, with J5 and J6 oriented toward you<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg<br />
#Place the '''black''' probe on left leg. That leg should read about 1.3<br />
#Move the '''black''' probe to the right leg. That leg should read about .7<br />
#Readings close to these, or even similar to adjacent like components, indicate a good component. Failure to obtain these readings means the component has failed.<br />
<br />
=Testing a coil=<br />
<br />
If a drive transistor shorts, providing an unintended path to ground for power at a solenoid, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil winding gets hot enough, it will burn through the protective coating on the winding, shorting adjacently wound wires and reducing the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the failed driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged immediately after power on.<br />
<br />
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is wise to check each coil's resistance '''*before*''' switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it! Even examining each coil in the game for burned coil wrappers may help identify a shorted coil.<br />
<br />
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power winding and a hold winding. These are easily identified as they have three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.<br />
<br />
==Testing resistance==<br />
To test a coil's resistance:<br />
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs. <br />
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. Note: Some flipper coils will read less than 2 ohms but still be fine.<br />
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (i.e. the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or drive transistor issue. <br />
<br />
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before powering the game on again.<br />
<br />
==Testing for coil power==<br />
With the machine powered on:<br />
* set your DMM to DC<br />
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one). <br />
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-75v.<br />
<br />
Please note that some games have a coin door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids.<br />
<br />
==Testing the coil diode==<br />
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.<br />
<br />
To test a coil diode:<br />
<br />
* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.<br />
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.<br />
* Place the black lead on the banded side.<br />
* Place the red lead on the non-banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.<br />
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'<br />
<br />
==Testing the driver transistors==<br />
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=Basic Sound Troubleshooting=<br />
Regardless of the manufacturer, there are some simple steps to follow if no sound is present. Below are the steps from simplest to more complicated.<br />
<br />
# Make sure the speaker is properly connected. If female crimp spade connectors are used on the wiring connecting to the speaker terminals, it is not uncommon for the connectors to come loose or even break. If the leads to the speakers are soldered onto the speaker terminals, make certain the wires are soldered well by gently tugging on the wires.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the speaker is good. If no sound is coming out of the speaker, not even a hum when the volume pot is turned up, check to see if the speaker is not blown. For what it is worth, even a speaker with a ripped cone can put out some sound in most cases. The sound may be distorted, but it should be present. There are two ways to test a speaker. The safest way is to hook an ohmmeter up to the two speaker leads, and see if the resistance equals the impedance of the speaker. Most, if not all speakers in pinball machines are either 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The other method for testing a speaker is to hook a 9v battery up to the speaker leads. Prior to hooking up a battery, it is important to disconnect the speaker outputs on the sound board. This will isolate the speaker from the sound board completely. Once the battery is hooked up, the speaker cone should either pull in or flex out, depending on how the battery's polarity was connected to the speaker. '''Do not allow the battery to be connected to the speaker for very long'''.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume potentiometer (pot) is properly connected, if one is used (newer machines like WMS WPC, Stern / Sega White Star, and stern SAM systems use digital potentiometers). If turning the volume pot up does not result in any sound, turn the pot the opposite direction. If no mechanical pot is used, skip the next step.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the volume pot is good. Using an ohmmeter. connect the leads to the volume pot, and turn the pot back in forth. When the pot is turned completely one way, it should read close to zero ohms (full volume). When turned the opposite direction, the reading should be close to the value of what the pot's rating (pots in pinball machines roughly range from 5 kohms to 25 kohms depending on the manufacturer). Pots sometime develop "dead spots". When the pot is turned from its lowest setting (highest resistance value) to its highest setting (0 ohm resistance), the resistance value should slowly decrease. While turning the pot, if the value spikes to 0 and resumes to a higher value than 0, the pot has a dead spot. TV tuner cleaner can be used to sometimes rectify this problem. Even exercising the pot back and forth can resolve dead spots in a pinch.<br><br><br />
# Make sure the output connections on the sound board are good. If the sound board in question has header pins on the output to the speaker / volume pot, check for cracked header joints. Short of a visual inspection with the board removed from the game, try wiggling the output connector. This does not definitely prove that there are cracked header joints, but it shows that either the headers or the harness connector is at fault. Additionally, check for bad connectors inside the speaker output housing connection. If the sound board in question uses edge finger connections, check the edge connector inside the housing of the output to the speaker. In either case, if the output harness uses an insulation displacement connector (IDC), check to make sure the wires are securely seated inside the connector of the housing.<br><br><br />
#In some but not all instances, sound boards use a 5-legged amplifier with a heat sink attached. Sound boards with this type of amp may have cracked solder joints at the legs of the amp. If gently wiggling the amps heat sink makes sound cut in and out, suspect cracked solder joints on the legs of the amp.<br><br />
<br />
Remaining issues are typically sound board specific. Please review the appropriate repair pages regarding the sound board in question.<br />
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<br />
=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=<br />
Need to cover...<br><br />
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)<br><br />
SOIC to DIP adapters<br><br />
<br />
==Resistor Networks==<br />
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations"><br />
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Bussed Resistor Network</b></center><br />
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Isolated Resistor Network</b></center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
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[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.<br />
<br />
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1.<br><br />
<font color=Red><need a picture of this></font><br />
<br />
=The Switch Matrix=<br />
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.<br />
<br />
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required. <br />
<br />
<u>'''How a switch matrix works'''</u><br />
<br />
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.<br />
<br />
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse). <br />
<br />
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.<br><br />
<br />
<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center><br />
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<br />
=Switch Matrix IN WORK=<br />
<youtube v="Bo3wVuyJtXA" />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<youtube v="rNx2D6KeAxQ" /><br />
<br />
[[Image:NormalSwitchMatrixOperation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Normal Switch Matrix Operation]]<br />
[[Image:ShortedDiodeFailureInSwitchMatrix.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Implications of a Shorted Diode in the Switch Matrix]]<br />
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<br />
=General Illumination=<br />
<br />
General Illumination is lighting that switches on (generally) when game power is turned on. Some general illumination circuits are switched on by an electromechanical relay (EM games, Williams System 11, and all eras of solid state Gottlieb games for instance). Some GI circuits are controlled by the MPU (WPC games). General illumination lamps are essentially the same as Christmas tree lights. They come on when power is applied.<br />
<br />
[[File:SST-GIModification.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Underside of Starship Troopers playfield showing mod to top lane guide GI lamp installation.]]<br><br><br />
Some GI sockets are very difficult to get to, like in Sega's Starship Troopers. One way to ease the job is to get at the lamps from under the playfield where possible. This requires a small modification to your game and some short wood screws. In the picture at left, the OEM staples have been removed and replaced with a standard pinball target screw. One screw is really enough since the lamp isn't going anywhere. To replace a lamp, simply remove the screw, pull the socket, replace the lamp, and reinstall. Make certain the length of the screw will not protrude through the top of the playfield. Those who prefer the look of LEDs should consider using LEDs in these tough to reach places.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=The Lamp Matrix=<br />
<br />
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.<br />
<br />
All EM's control lamps with switches on relay stacks, or wipers on disc units.<br />
<br />
'''How the lamp matrix works'''<br />
<br />
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.<br />
<br />
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.<br />
<br />
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''<br />
<br />
#Fewer wires<br />
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp matrix problems'''<br />
<br />
#Single lamp out<br />
#Single lamp locked on<br />
#multiple lamps in a row<br />
#multiple lamps in a column<br />
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not<br />
<br />
'''Typical causes'''<br />
<br />
#Wiring shorts<br />
#Shorted diode(s)<br />
<br />
=How coils, flashers, and motors are turned on=<br />
<br />
In most machines, every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at all coil lugs. Exceptions are...<br><br />
*Williams System 11 and Data East/Sega games which have an A/C (side) select relay that switches power between two banks...a bank of coils and a bank of flashers.<br />
*Flipper coils on Data East games that use the Solid State Flipper Board. The SSFB provides power to the coils only after the cabinet flipper button switch is closed.<br />
<br />
[[File:CoilPowerDiagram.jpg|400px|left|thumb|A simple representation of how power is always present at all coil lugs, waiting to "find ground" via a switch. Solid state pinball machines use transistors to "switch" power to ground (a TIP-102 transistor for instance)]]<br><br />
If you set your DMM to DC voltage, place the black lead of your DMM on game ground such as the ground braid or the side rail, and place the red lead of your DMM on either coil lug, you should read nominal coil voltage (exactly what voltage level depends on the game system). Your DMM reads the voltage at both/all coil lugs because, when the coil is off, there is no current through the coil to cause a voltage drop. Power present at one coil lug is guaranteed to be present at the other coil lug unless the coil winding has a break in it or the winding is disconnected from the lug.<br />
<br />
Referencing the diagram at left, placing the red probe of your DMM at any point labeled "P", and the black lead of your DMM on game ground (labeled "G"), should read nominal coil voltage.<br />
<br />
All that is required for the coil to "fire" is for the ground lug of the coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor, or by closing a switch that creates a path to ground. <br />
<br />
Note that this also a good example of how to test a coil, and the power circuit. Grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly. If the coil does not fire, then either the coil is not receiving power, or the coil winding has a break in it, or the coil winding is not attached securely to the coil's solder tab(s).<br />
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<br />
=Flippers=<br />
<br />
;How does a flipper work?<br />
:Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the coil to overheat or the fuse to blow. Note that it takes less power to hold the flipper up than it does to pull the plunger in for the initial flip due to the effect the metal plunger has on what is initially an air-core coil.<br />
<br />
;High Voltage flipper operation<br />
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.<br />
<br />
:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.<br />
<br />
:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.<br />
<br />
:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.<br />
<br />
;Solid State Flipper operation<br />
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.<br />
<br />
:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.<br />
<br />
:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.<br />
<br />
;Summary of EOS switch function for various types of games<br />
*EM: EOS switch shorts hold winding until flipper is actuated. This allows the power coil to provide full strength during the flipper movement but switch over to the lower power hold winding at the end of movement. In reality, both the power and hold coils are in series during hold operation.<br />
*Data East: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40 ms) switch-over from 50V to 8V for hold operation. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. See Maverick game manual page 90 for theory of operation. <br />
*Stern: Flipper switch pulses power winding with a timed (40ms) switchover to 1ms pulses every 12ms to hold the coil up. The EOS switch is only used to re-flip a knocked down flipper. For a description of Stern flipper operation, see [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/BATMAN_SGM/BATMAN_SEC5_CHP2.pdf Stern Batman TDK Manual Section 5 Chapter 2 Page 106]<br />
*Williams: Fliptronic board provides CPU-controlled coil drivers for the flippers. When EOS switch closes power is switched to the hold winding. Williams WPC flipper problems are discussed in the [[Williams_WPC#Flipper_Problems]] section.<br />
<br />
==Weak Flippers - What to check==<br />
[[File:CoilSleeveWithInternalRingResized.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A worn coil sleeve, with an internal "ring" worn into it. This ring prevented the plunger from being fully pulled in.]]<br><br />
There are many problems that can lead to weak flippers. Some flipper problems are unique to EM games, but there are many problems common to both EM and SS games.<br />
Problems can be either electrical or mechanical. Below is a list of items to check. General things to note are whether both flippers are weak or just one, if the flipper won't flip will it stay up if the bat is manually moved to the up position, and does the flipper bat move easily when moved by hand. The following list details problems that can cause weak flippers.<br />
<br />
#End-of-Stroke (EOS) switch dirty. <br>The power winding of a flipper coil is only a few ohms of resistance so it doesn't take too much added resistance in the EOS switch to degrade the flipper power. If an EOS switch is not making contact at all the flipper will likely not flip, but will hold if you manually actuate the flipper.<br />
#Flipper switch dirty. <br>For EM games, flipper power is provided through the flipper switch. Added resistance of a fouled switch can weaken flippers.<br />
#Coil sleeve worn or dirty. <br>Cleaning the coil plunger and sleeve will improve flipper performance. Some older games had metal sleeves that should be replaced with modern nylon sleeves. Even when wear can not be seen, replacing the coil sleeve often helps.<br />
#Coil stop or plunger mushroomed. <br>Coils operate best when there is a flat surface between the plunger end and the coil stop. A mushroomed coil stop or plunger can cause the flipper to buzz when held up.<br />
#Flipper spring too tight. <br>This can also result in noisy flippers when held up. The flipper spring should be adjusted so that it can barely return the flippers to their resting postion when the playfield is up.<br />
#Flipper bushing binding. <br>A worn flipper bushing or a misadjusted flipper bat can result in binding that impedes flipper movement. Make sure there is a small amount of vertical play in the flipper to prevent binding.<br />
#Hogged out fiber link. <br>Over time the holes in the flipper links can become elongated. The play in the flipper movement results in wasted coil movement and thus reduced flipper strength.<br />
#Power issues. <br>Make sure you are getting full voltage at the flipper coil. Usually a power problem will cause both flippers to be weak.<br />
#Drive transistor bad (SS only) <br>In solid state games it is possible to have a transistor that is bad but still somewhat operational. Usually the bad transistor will get noticeably hotter than other similar transistors.<br />
#Power Winding bad. <br>Coil failures are rare, but check from broken solder connections and broken coil wires at the coil lugs.<br />
<br />
=Changing Batteries=<br />
Solid state machines have batteries to save high score and setting information when the machine is powered off. Usually these are three AA batteries mounted on the CPU board. They should be changed annually to prevent leakage that will damage the CPU board.<br />
<br />
Batteries can be changed with the machine powered on so that settings are maintained. Some people recommend changing one battery at a time, but this is only to help ensure that the new batteries are installed with the correct polarity.<br />
<br />
The best thing you can do for your game is to install a remote battery holder, which moves the batteries completely off of the CPU board. See the specific game system section for instructions to perform this simple modification.<br />
<br />
=Coil Chart=<br />
<br />
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at<br />
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html<br />
<br />
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Chart=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Voltage (V)<br />
!Current(A)<br />
!Candle Power<br />
!Life (hours)<br />
!Base<br />
!Typical Use<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|44<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|47<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|55<br />
|7.0<br />
|.41<br />
|2.00<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47<br> '''Not a good replacement in pop bumpers or behind backglasses (too much heat generated)'''<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|63<br />
|7.0<br />
|.63<br />
|3.0<br />
|1,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Used in early Williams solid state games like Flash.<br> Found in Williams games as late as High Speed; typically installed in series<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|67<br />
|13.5<br />
|.59<br />
|4.0<br />
|5,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Exclusively used as flash lamps on Gottlieb (Premier) games<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|73<br />
|14.0<br />
|.80<br />
|.30<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|86<br />
|6.3<br />
|.20<br />
|.40<br />
|20,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism;Gottlieb Victory ramp chaser lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|89<br />
|13.0<br />
|.58<br />
|6.00<br />
|750<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|159<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.34<br />
|5000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the #555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|194<br />
|14.0<br />
|.27<br />
|2.00<br />
|1,500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Whitewater Topper Lamps<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (instrument panel / dash lamps)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|199<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.25<br />
|32.00<br />
|1500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Alternate for 1156 lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|313<br />
|28<br />
|0.17<br />
|3.5<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|447<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|455<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.5<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Blinker<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|545<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.31<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|555<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Common GI and controlled lamp bulb<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|906<br />
|13.0<br />
|.69<br />
|6.00<br />
|1000<br />
|T-5 Wedge<br />
|Flash Lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1156<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.1<br />
|32.00<br />
|1,200<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed II beacon lamp and Creature from the Black Lagoon hologram projection lamp<br><br />
Can be acquired at automotive parts stores (reverse and front turn signal lamp in some vehicles)<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1251<br />
|28.0<br />
|.23<br />
|3.00<br />
|2,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1683<br />
|28.0<br />
|1.02<br />
|32.00<br />
|500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed, F-14 Tomcat, and Rescue 911 beacon lamps; Fire! flame tube projection lamp<br />
<br />
|----<br />
|1847<br />
|6.3<br />
|.15<br />
|.38<br />
|5,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Dimmer, longer lasting version of 47 bulb; for areas where vibration is a factor (pop bumpers, etc.)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.<br />
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.<br />
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.<br />
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)<br />
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter<br />
<br />
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Sockets=<br />
<br />
Some later games have illuminated buttons for start and possibly other functions. These are typically located on the front of the cabinet. Instructions on replacing the lamp in those switches can be found [http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/installation_illuminated.htm here].<br />
<br />
=Fuse Table=<br />
<br />
<center><font size="4">'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</font></center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center><br />
<br />
{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 5A<br />
| BR, DC coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 10A<br />
| Main, BR, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|- align="left"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils-under PF<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Displays<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Service outlet<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Main line power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils, Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/16A<br />
| High Voltage on SDB<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Pop bumpers (Sys80/80A/80B), Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| Display power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main, coils, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 4A<br />
| 12v/5v power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB<br />
| PS, lamps, displays<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| 5A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 15A<br />
| General Illumination<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 20A<br />
| Switched Lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Display high voltage<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Power supply (displays)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB<br />
| Display driver board<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Aux board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Sound board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Power supply, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| 5v power (L7 games)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 20A<br />
| General illumination<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 1/10A<br />
| Cabinet, displays<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A <br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega &amp; New Stern'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| Display<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB<br />
| Display<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB<br />
| 12v PS F101<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Lamps, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB<br />
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Coils, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB<br />
| Switched lamps, line<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Line, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB<br />
| Coils main F108<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Power line, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T2.5A SB<br />
| Audio F501, F502<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Resistors=<br />
Resistors typically have a standard color coding scheme, (the exceptions are some power resistors which have the value and wattage inked on the resistor), which is used to identify the resistor's value and tolerance. The resistor's value and tolerance can be identified on this [http://samengstrom.com/24614782/en/read/4_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes?history=5107960,24614782 website] by clicking the appropriate color bands.<br />
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<br />
=Game Software (ROMs)=<br />
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features. These home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case, it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]<br />
<br />
Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. DO NOT depend on the labels on the replacement roms "matching" a direction on your machine! ALWAYS check the orientation based on the notches. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement. <br />
<br />
Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.<br />
<br />
Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.<br />
<br />
=Counterfeit Integrated Circuits=<br />
<br />
[[File:MOS 6532.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bogus 6532 Chips]]<br />
As time passes, the need for through hole integrated circuits (IC chips) in current manufacturing decreases. Most consumable electronics today are using surface mount ICs. However, through hole ICs are what nearly 90% of all solid state pinball machines use on circuit boards. And as the need decreases, the price increases. Enter the counterfeiters. It may sound absurd, but there is a whole "underground" industry of counterfeit IC chips being created. How are they typically counterfeited? Old ICs are sourced, the top of the chip is either sanded or painted over with the correct identifiers as to what chip it is, and a new identifier is inked over. Some counterfeit chips are fairly obvious (see the pic to the left to view two sanded IC tops), while others are not so obvious.<br><br />
<br />
The moral to this is know who you are buying from. Avoid buying components from sellers who offer product at "too good to be true" prices. Some of these types of sellers peddle their product on eBay, and originate from the Far East. Keep in mind that even trusted sellers are not totally immune from counterfeit chips, but the really good sellers have a better grasp on reducing the sales of counterfeit chips from their inventory.<br />
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<br />
=Tumbling Parts to Clean Them=<br />
[[File:TarnishedMetalPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A batch of playfield posts, etc from a Gottlieb Buckaroo.]]<br><br />
A quick way to shine a lot of metal parts is to use a "parts tumbler". (Technically, what is referred to in this section is a Vibrating Polisher - the name comes from a rock tumbler polisher, which can also be used but takes much longer.) Tumblers can typically be purchased at Bass Pro Shops as shooting enthusiasts use them to polish brass cartridges. One of the "old standards" is the [http://www.berrysmfg.com/product-i14546-c47-g8-b0-p0-400_Tumbler.aspx model 400 made by Berry's Manufacturing]. Crushed walnut shell media works well. It can be acquired at pet stores where it is sold as lizard bedding. For gentle less aggressive tumbling, use corn cob media. Additives such as "Flitz" or even a squirt of Novus 3 have been used to improve results. KIT Scratch Out also works very well for this application.<br />
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[[File:TumbledBuckARooPosts.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Ah yes...nice and shiny. These parts were tumbled for about 24 hours in crushed walnut shell media.]]<br><br />
Tumbling approaches the point of diminishing returns after about 24 hours. Tumbling past 24 hours doesn't yield much improvement.<br />
<br />
To remove the walnut shell media from flat-blade screws, a dental pick works well.<br><br />
To remove the media from Gottlieb "Speed Nuts" or Acorn Nuts, shake them inside a plastic container. The media falls right out.<br />
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=How to Properly File Switch Contacts=<br />
This is a stub<br />
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<br />
=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
:Check the tightness of all under playfield mechanisms. It's not uncommon for mechanisms (even with lock nuts) to loosen up over time. Do not overtighten and strip out any holes, just snug them in. If you find any loose holes, repair with glue and toothpicks. Once everything is tight again, mechanism action will be crisper.<br />
<br />
==Leveling the Game==<br />
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting the Game Pitch==<br />
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.<br />
<br />
==Balls==<br />
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.<br />
<br />
:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting flippers==<br />
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.<br />
<br />
:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.<br />
<br />
:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.<br />
<br />
:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.<br />
<br />
:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.<br />
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==Adjusting drop targets==<br />
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well). Take caution in cleaning the drop target face. If a face is stamped with artwork, most chemicals (even mild ones) will remove the artwork.<br />
<br />
:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.<br />
<br />
===Williams===<br />
:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.<br />
<br />
:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.<br />
<br />
:Later Williams' drop banks went to a two-spring design, one to pull the target down, and one coil spring to push the target forward on reset. This design started sometime around the Big Guns era. There's not a lot of adjustment needed in this type of target other than to clean them very well, and to ensure that the rubber grommets and the washer/screw combination are not too tight. They should be tightened just enough so the target will reset properly, but not so much that the target drops slowly. The weak points of this design are the ledge the drop targets rest on, and the studs used to hold the drop target reset coil stop. Originally, a small strip of tempered, spring steel was used for the ledge. This piece of spring steel was riveted to the drop target assy. frame. If it cracks or breaks, a single target or targets in the bank will not properly reset, as there is no ledge for them to rest in the up position. Williams realized this issue, and later versions of this type of drop target assy., somewhere around Earthshaker, were made with a replaceable ledge. Likewise, the coil stops were mounted with studs integrated into the drop target frame assy. These studs can snap off flush with the frame, allowing only one side or neither to hold the coil stop in place. <br />
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<br />
===Gottlieb===<br />
:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their original design. There are 2 discrete springs used; one to pull the drops in the proper direction to reset correctly, and another to provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.<br />
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:The 2-spring Gottlieb design changed during the system 80B era. This design change moved the reset coil from the outside of the drop target assy. to the underside, center of the assy. on small and single banks. Multiple reset coils were still used on banks larger than 4 targets. The benefit of the new design was less moving parts and a slightly smaller mounting footprint. However, the newer design eliminated the two spring design, and the smooth even stroke for the reset. While the targets still drop down smartly, on reset occasionally they will reset too high, or some targets will fail to reset, if the reset coil is not adjusted properly. Well beyond the time of the initial design change, some System 3 games use a combination of the old and new style drop target assys. <br />
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<br />
===Bally===<br />
:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.<br />
<br />
:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place. Be sure any added shims don't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.<br />
<br />
:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.<br />
<br />
:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chiclet" style for over 25 years.<br />
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<br />
===Stern (Classic)===<br />
:Classic Stern drops, commonly referred to as "chiclets", were originally similar to the Bally "tombstone" style, and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the playfield, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.<br />
<br />
:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking a pop bumper==<br />
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.<br />
<br />
:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.<br />
<br />
:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.<br />
<br />
:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.<br />
<br />
==Tuning a spinner==<br />
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.<br />
<br />
:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 2000 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.<br />
<br />
:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.<br />
<br />
:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.<br />
<br />
:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==<br />
:Most would ask why you would <b>want</b> to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.<br />
<br />
:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.<br />
<br />
:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.<br />
<br />
:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).<br />
<br />
:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.<br />
<br />
:Shaking a pinball is a part of the game, and possibly a greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.<br />
<br />
:Another trick is to ensure the playfield is attached solidly in some way to the cabinet. Older games have a metal clamping bracket in the cabinet to lock down the playfield, allowing better nudging action. Some older games use screws to attach the playfield to the cabinet. Metal hanger brackets used on newer machines take some of the nudging force away by allowing the playfield's suspension to absorb some of the force. A piece of cardboard folded and wedged at the playfield apron will help remove this factor and allowing more subtle shaking of the machine. This in turn will allow a tighter tilt if desired since the playfield will react to smaller nudges versus stock.<br />
<br />
==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==<br />
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).<br />
<br />
:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.<br />
<br />
:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.<br />
<br />
:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking lane guides==<br />
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.<br />
<br />
:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.<br />
<br />
:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size smaller than needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.<br />
<br />
:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.<br />
<br />
:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.<br />
<br />
:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or has its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.<br />
<br />
==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==<br />
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.<br />
<br />
:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.<br />
<br />
==Plungers==<br />
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.<br />
<br />
:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.<br />
<br />
:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a weak spring to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.<br />
<br />
==Coil Sleeves==<br />
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.<br />
<br />
:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid. If a coil plunger is particularly mushroomed, replace it.<br />
<br />
==Connectors and Soldering==<br />
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems. A steel or brass wire bottle brush of the appropriate size works well to clean Jones plugs, and you can get a very fine nylon bottle brush to clean the female connectors. Don't use a metal brush to clean the female side unless you're sure to find and clean up any broken brush strands.<br />
<br />
:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Make sure any wire management straps are being used to support the weight of the harness going into the cabinet instead of depending on the header pin to support all that weight. Resoldering the header pins will fix the cracking and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.<br />
<br />
:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.<br />
<br />
==Slingshots==<br />
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back. Replace the sling switches with new switches or replace just the blade if they have been bent and mangled from incorrect adjustments. It's easier but more expensive to replace the entire switch vs. getting the blade parts (blade parts alone are <$1.00, new switches anywhere from $2.75-$6.00 depending on bracket installed/not and vendor).<br />
<br />
:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.<br />
<br />
:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is threefold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling). Thirdly, they prevent a ball from working its way under the rubber and getting trapped in the triangle under the sling plastic.<br />
<br />
:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. Grasp the actuator arm and rock it slightly at a right angle to its normal activation arc to check for wear. You will usually see some lateral slop in a sling mechanism; if it's excessive power will be lost on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or use a small nylon washer to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).<br />
<br />
==Standup/stationary Targets==<br />
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent so the target leans backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.<br />
<br />
:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is breached or gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes. Inspect the switch blades that make up the target and straighten any out that are mangled.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Stern_S.A.M._System_Repair&diff=7657Stern S.A.M. System Repair2012-06-07T07:55:43Z<p>Mr: /* Technical Info */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
Click to go back to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball_Repair_Guides Data East/Sega/Stern pinball repair guides index].<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
S.A.M. is the current board system used by Stern Pinball. The first full production game to use the S.A.M. Board Set was World Poker Tour in 2006. One of the features of the S.A.M. board set is that the software can be updated with a USB stick.<br />
<br />
==Games==<br />
*[[World Poker Tour]]<br />
*[[Pirates of the Caribbean]]<br />
*[[Family Guy]]<br />
*[[Spider Man (Stern)]]<br />
*[[Wheel of Fortune]]<br />
*[[Shrek]]<br />
*[[Indiana Jones 4]]<br />
*[[Batman (Stern)]]<br />
*[[CSI: Crime Scene Investigation]]<br />
*[[24]]<br />
*[[NBA]]<br />
*[[Big Buck Hunter Pro]]<br />
*[[Iron Man]]<br />
*[[Avatar]]<br />
*[[The Rolling Stones (Stern)]]<br />
*[[Tron]]<br />
*[[Transformers]]<br />
<br />
==Technical Info==<br />
===The S.A.M. Board Set===<br />
The S.A.M. System board set consists of three boards in back box. The I/O Power Driver Board, CPU/Sound Board, and the Display Power Supply.<br />
<br />
===Recommended Documentation===<br />
As always, it is highly recommended to possess a game manual. Every game manual is full of detailed information regarding game specific switch, lamp, and coil assignments. Equally, details for maneuvering through test, audit, and bookkeeping screen menus, schematics for all boards used, and game specific mechanical assemblies are included. Hard copy game manuals can be purchased through several of the recommended [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Parts_Suppliers pinball parts suppliers].<br><br />
<br />
The [http://sternpinball.com/parts.shtml Stern Pinball, Inc.] website currently archives game manuals using the S.A.M. in part or in whole in PDF format at the time of this writing.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Stern Pinball also makes Technical Service Bulletins available on their website [http://sternpinball.com/Service/bulletin.aspx here]. There is an option to search by game title. The archived service bulletins (pre-2009) are [http://sternpinball.com/ServiceBulletins.shtml here].<br />
<br />
===USB Code Update===<br />
''Note: this information can be found on the front inside cover of S.A.M. System Game Manuals.''<br><br />
<br />
Step 1) Open the Back Box<br><br />
Step 2) On the CPU/Sound board set Dip Switch #8 to "ON".<br><br />
Step 3) Press the white Reset Button (S1 RESET) or power cycle the game.<br><br />
Step 4) The DMD should show the current software version installed. Press the "SELECT" button on the inside of the coin door to continue.<br><br />
Step 5) Highlight the "UPDT" icon on the display and press "SELECT".<br><br />
Step 6) The game will prompt you to insert the USB Memory Stick.<br><br />
Step 7) Pick the correct file on the USB drive and press the "SELECT" Button.<br><br />
Step 8) Follow the directions on the display.<br />
<br />
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===<br />
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Placeholder for SAM coin door buttons]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===The New Stern LED Lamp System===<br />
<br />
Stern developed a new serial lamp control system for the release of Tron.<br />
<br />
This system uses a serial protocol to control playfield LEDs. <br />
<br />
There are three components to the system<br />
- the serial bus, which carries clock, data, power and strobe signals<br />
- lamp boards, typically strips, which carry a serial LED controller for on-board LEDs and satellite LEDs<br />
- LED satellite boards, which solder to the lamp boards.<br />
<br />
The lamp boards daisy chain. Therefore, the controller can feed, say, 8 bytes of serial data to the lamp boards and strobe the data in, turning on or off 64 LEDs. This system is potentially expandable to hundreds of controlled lamps, breaking the constraints of the traditional lamp matrix. <br />
<br />
The lamp boards and LED boards can be assembled outside the game,simplifying the wiring harness. <br />
<br />
The controller used is an STP16DPS05. This device controls 16 LEDs, and uses a constant current output. Therefore, it needs no series resistors, although Stern has implemented series resistors on the satellite boards. [any ideas here?]<br />
<br />
The driver is also capable of reporting short and open LEDs, but we do not know if Stern has implemented this feature.<br />
<br />
<br />
In terms of diagnosis, one failed board could disable the entire system. The STP16DPS05 is a likely candidate for failure if an LED satellite board tangles with GI or other voltages. Replacing the chip is tricky as it has a full-contact heat transfer pad on the underside, which is difficult to heat properly without ot air or IR equipment. <br />
<br />
It may also be useful to have a z-connector to hand to bridge out a failed board. This will result in incorrect light patterns, but will at least demonstrate that the system is driving the daisychain.<br />
<br />
==Problems and Solutions==<br />
===Power Problems===<br />
===MPU boot issues===<br />
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====<br />
==== Repairing Battery Corrosion ====<br />
The Stern S.A.M. system uses a single 3v lithium CR2430 "button cell" for its memory backup. These cells have very long life and are not prone to electrolyte leakage.<br />
<br />
==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ====<br />
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing ====<br />
===Game resets===<br />
===Solenoid problems===<br />
===Lamp problems===<br />
If you have a bulb not working, seat the wiring into the IDC type socket better. I've run into a lot of these where the wires aren't seated and making good electrical contact.<br />
<br />
===Switch problems===<br />
If a switch isn't working. The three most common things I've seen is. 1- crappy switch, even if new. 2- if wires go into a IDC connector nearby, be sure they are seated good and making electrical contact. 3- broken wire at switch, or inside casing or harness, easy to quick check continuity of wiring.<br />
<br />
===Display problems===<br />
===Sound problems===<br />
===Flipper problems===<br />
Coils hum. The way they are power cycled causes some of this. I've also found that they get noisier with use. I then file the plunger end smooth, and the top of the coil stop smooth, where the plunger hits it. This helps a lot with noise.<br />
<br />
===Pop bumper problems===<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
SAM system schematics are available on the Stern Pinball website here: http://www.sternpinball.com/schematics.shtml<br />
<br />
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==<br />
Stern opto boards at end of trough. And boards playfield optos plug onto. I've noticed when problems arise, to reflow the solder on the optos, and pins the connectors plug onto. This eliminates a lot of problems that arise with the optos. LTG :)<br />
<br />
Pirates of the Caribbean. The spinning disc. Check your serial numbers with the service bulletin on Stern's website. Some of the early games need to have the bearings lubricated.<br />
<br />
And if your artwork is worn off. I've found when you put on a new decal. To put clear non-slip bath tub stuff on top of it. It works just as good at flinging the balls. And doesn't wear off as fast and get messy all over the game like the original. And easily replaced.<br />
LTG :)<br />
<br />
==Repair Logs==<br />
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.<br />
<br />
If you have feature lamps not working. Check the wiring pushed into the lamp socket. I've seen more than a few where the wire isn't making good contact where it is pushed in. Easy to push in better. LTG :)</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General&diff=4860General2011-09-05T17:47:32Z<p>Mr: /* Soldering Irons */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.<br />
<br />
= Parts to have on hand =<br />
'''All Machines'''<br />
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.<br />
<br />
'''Electromechanical Machines'''<br />
<br />
'''Solid State Machines'''<br />
<br />
*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a general replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.<br />
*TIP-102 Transistors<br />
*IN4004 Diodes<br />
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most flexible)<br />
<br />
=Tools of the Trade=<br />
<br />
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.<br />
<br />
==Mechanical Tools==<br />
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches<br />
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy<br />
*Nut driver set, which should include<br />
**1/4" (red) nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts<br />
**5/16 (yellow) nut driver - used for #6 nuts<br />
**11/32 (green) nut driver - #8 nuts<br />
**3/8 nut (blue) driver - used for #10 nuts<br />
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts<br />
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. <br />
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.<br />
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.<br />
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.<br />
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.<br />
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.<br />
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench<br />
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts<br />
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench<br />
*Pliers<br />
*High-brightness LED flashlight<br />
*Magnetic pickup tool<br />
*Magnetic parts dish<br />
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)<br />
<br />
== Electrical Tools ==<br />
<br />
*A few alligator clip leads for testing<br />
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.<br />
*Side cutters<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.<br />
*For Connector Work<br />
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...<br />
**Connector pin pusher .093"<br />
**Connector pin pusher .062"<br />
<br />
'''Molex Crimper Styles'''<br />
<br />
[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]<br />
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
'''Bold text'''==Soldering Irons==<br />
<br />
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.<br />
<br />
Portable:<br />
<br />
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.<br />
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)<br><br />
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)<br><br />
<br />
There is also a type of cordless battery powered iron referred to as "cold heat" - these do not work well for any pinball application, due to the lack of control over the quality of the solder joint produced. Avoid these for pinball work.<br />
<br />
Corded:<br />
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)<br><br />
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)<br><br />
*Weller W60P (temperature controlled)<br><br />
Station:<br />
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)<br />
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)<br />
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)<br />
<br />
'''Advanced Soldering Irons'''<br />
<br />
The move to lead-free manufacturing forced manufacturers to solder at a more tightly controlled, lower temperature. This requirement led to new irons that can deliver lots of heat, quickly. They have heat-up times of less than 10 seconds, and can solder larger joints than conventional irons. They have tips with built-in elements and temoerature sensors. The tips show up on eBay, new and used. They are relatively expensive ($10 - $30) but last longer than regular tips. Expect to spend $200 - $400 to kit up with one of these (eBay). They are valuable if you do board work, as the fast heat delivery means the solder melts without overheating the pad. <br />
<br />
Metcal has been making these new irons for some time, so the systems are relatively common on eBay. <br />
<br />
<br />
Metcal MX-500P<br />
JBC - these irons really do heat up in 2 seconds (20W handpiece)<br />
Hakko FM series<br />
Weller WXT series<br />
<br />
Ersa, Goot, Pace<br />
<br />
==Desoldering Tools==<br />
<br />
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.<br />
<br />
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.<br />
<br />
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.<br />
<br />
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.<br />
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.<br />
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.<br />
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use<br />
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.<br />
<br />
==Rework Solder Stations==<br />
<br />
*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) <br><br />
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder ectractor)<br />
<br />
==EM Tools==<br />
[[file:SwitchTools.jpg|thumb|Right|Leaf switch tools|1) Ignition points file for Tungsten contacts 2) flexstone 3)vendor supplied leaf switch adjustment tool 4) Homemade switch adjustment tool 5) push-pull spring tool]]<br />
*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.<br />
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.<br />
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==<br />
<font color=red>In work</font><br />
<br />
=Soldering=<br />
<br />
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering. <br />
<br />
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!<br />
<br />
==Equipment and Supplies==<br />
<br />
===The basic soldering iron===<br />
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. Once example is the Weller WESD-51.<br />
<br />
===Tip Cleaner===<br />
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.<br />
<br />
===Solder===<br />
A wide range of solders are available. Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. For completing clean "OEM-like" solder joints, a "no clean" solder like Kester .031 diameter 63/37 no-clean solder, Kester part number 24-6337-5400, can be used. As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. Here is one supplier of Kester "no-clean" solder: [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life] '''Under no circumstances should Acid-core (plumbing) solder be used anywhere on a pinball machine.'''<br />
<br />
===Optional Equipment===<br />
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.<br />
<br />
==Soldering wires==<br />
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything. <br />
<br />
Here are the simple steps:<br />
<br />
#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.<br />
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.<br />
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.<br />
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool. <br />
<br />
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts down the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or clamps are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, the solder connection will end up with what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.<br />
<br />
'''Things to Know'''<br />
<br />
*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and you will have a bad joint.<br />
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. So once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.<br />
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, simply melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that hooking the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.<br />
<br />
== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==<br />
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.<br />
<br />
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied for too long, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult. It is better to use more heat for less time than less heat for more time.<br />
<br />
When soldering a chip socket in place, skipping from side to side for subsequent joints or skipping every other pin as you solder can help alleviate the risk of heating up a small part of the board, causing lifted pads and traces. A good solderer with the proper equipment can solder a 40 pin chip socket into place on a PCB in about 2 minutes.<br />
<br />
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.<br />
<br />
<font color=Red><still work in progress></font><br />
<br />
==Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"==<br />
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.<br />
<br />
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.<br />
<br />
[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]]<br><br />
'''Procedure''':<br><br />
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".<br><br />
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough.<br><br />
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.<br><br />
#Solder the first side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place.<br><br />
#All done!<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Desoldering=<br />
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each<br />
<br />
Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts<br />
<br />
=Testing an integrated circuit=<br />
<br />
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.<br />
<br />
This test works for any 74XX series IC.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]<br />
'''Procedure''':<br />
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test. <br />
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".<br />
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if having to test multiple chips on the same board.<br />
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
'''Interpreting the results:'''<br />
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.<br><br />
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.<br><br />
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.<br><br />
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.<br />
*Comparing your results against test results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
Readings outside of this range my indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Testing fuses=<br />
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.<br />
<br />
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".<br />
<br />
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.<br />
<br />
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.<br />
<br />
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.<br />
<br />
=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red size=4><b><Note: this is an experimental article layout...still thinking about it a bit and I have some content I'll upload this weekend....Chris Hibler></b></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on FETs></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on SCRs></font><br><br />
<br />
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used except for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. <br />
<br />
When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own. <br />
<br />
<br />
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)<br />
<br />
[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:<br />
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right<br />
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC<br />
*TO-202, such as a MPS-U45 (or replacement CEN-U45) as found on Gottlieb driver boards<br />
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE<br />
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)<br />
<br />
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.<br />
<br />
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.<br><br />
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''.<br><br />
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).<br><br />
'''Note: A transistor can "test" good and still be bad!!'''<br><br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the red lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the black lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
=Testing a coil=<br />
<br />
If a driver transistor shorts on, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil wire gets hot enough, it will burn out its plastic coating, shorting the wires and dropping the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the broken driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged.<br />
<br />
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is very wise to check each coil's resistance *before* switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it!<br />
<br />
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power coil and a hold coil. These are normally identified as having three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.<br />
<br />
==Testing resistance==<br />
To test a coil's resistance:<br />
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs. <br />
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. Note: Some flipper coils will read less than 2 ohms but still be fine.<br />
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (ie the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or driver transistor issue. <br />
<br />
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before replacing it and powering on again.<br />
<br />
==Testing for coil power==<br />
With the machine powered on:<br />
* set your DMM to DC<br />
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one). <br />
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-60v.<br />
<br />
Please note that some games have a door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids or may only supply power to the coils during test/game modes.<br />
<br />
==Testing the coil diode==<br />
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.<br />
<br />
To test a coil diode:<br />
<br />
* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.<br />
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.<br />
* Place the black lead on the non-banded side.<br />
* Place the red lead on the banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.<br />
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'<br />
<br />
==Testing the driver transistors==<br />
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=<br />
Need to cover...<br><br />
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)<br><br />
SOIC to DIP adapters<br><br />
<br />
==Resistor Networks==<br />
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations"><br />
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Bussed Resistor Network</b></center><br />
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Isolated Resistor Network</b></center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.<br />
<br />
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1.<br><br />
<font color=Red><need a picture of this></font><br />
<br />
=The Switch Matrix=<br />
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.<br />
<br />
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required. <br />
<br />
<u>'''How a switch matrix works'''</u><br />
<br />
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.<br />
<br />
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse). <br />
<br />
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.<br><br />
<br />
<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<u>'''General Switch Matrix Debugging Tips'''</u><br />
<br />
Switch matrix problem diagnosis always begins with determining whether the problem is on the CPU or on the playfield.<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Under construction...</font><br><br />
Discuss using a diode/jumper to connect row and column at the CPU board.<br><br />
Discuss finding the "at fault" switch if the problem is on the PF.<br><br />
Insert animation created by Hibler/Palson here.<br><br />
<br />
=The Lamp Matrix=<br />
<br />
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.<br />
<br />
All EM's control lamps with switches on relay stacks, or wipers on disc units.<br />
<br />
'''How the lamp matrix works'''<br />
<br />
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.<br />
<br />
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.<br />
<br />
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''<br />
<br />
#Fewer wires<br />
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp matrix problems'''<br />
<br />
#Single lamp out<br />
#Single lamp locked on<br />
#multiple lamps in a row<br />
#multiple lamps in a column<br />
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not<br />
<br />
'''Typical causes'''<br />
<br />
#Wiring shorts<br />
#Shorted diode(s)<br />
<br />
=How coils are driven=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Under construction...</font><br><br />
Discuss "finding ground" via a controlled transistor to turn on a coil.<br />
<br />
Every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at the coils lugs. All that is required is for the ground lug of coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor.<br />
<br />
=Flippers=<br />
<br />
;How does a flipper work?<br />
:Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the fuse to blow.<br />
<br />
;High Voltage flipper operation<br />
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.<br />
<br />
:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.<br />
<br />
:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.<br />
<br />
:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.<br />
<br />
;Solid State Flipper operation<br />
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.<br />
<br />
:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.<br />
<br />
:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.<br />
<br />
=Changing Batteries=<br />
Solid state machines have batteries to save high score and setting information when the machine is powered off. Usually these are three AA batteries mounted on the CPU board. They should be changed annually to prevent leakage that will damage the CPU board.<br />
<br />
Batteries can be changed with the machine powered on so that settings are maintained. Some people recommend changing one battery at a time, but this is only to help ensure that the new batteries are installed with the correct polarity.<br />
<br />
=Coil Chart=<br />
<br />
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at<br />
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html<br />
<br />
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Chart=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Voltage (V)<br />
!Current(A)<br />
!Candle Power<br />
!Life (hours)<br />
!Base<br />
!Typical Use<br />
|----<br />
|44<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Common GI bulb<br />
|----<br />
|47<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power<br />
|----<br />
|55<br />
|7.0<br />
|.41<br />
|2.00<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47<br />
|----<br />
|67<br />
|13.5<br />
|.59<br />
|4.0<br />
|5,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|F-14 Tomcat Flash Lamps<br />
|----<br />
|73<br />
|14.0<br />
|.80<br />
|.30<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
|----<br />
|86<br />
|6.3<br />
|.20<br />
|.40<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
|----<br />
|89<br />
|13.0<br />
|.58<br />
|6.00<br />
|750<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC<br />
|----<br />
|194<br />
|14.0<br />
|.27<br />
|2.00<br />
|1,500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Whitewater Topper Lamps<br />
|----<br />
|199<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.25<br />
|32.00<br />
|1500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|HS2 Getaway Topper Lamp, CFTBL Hologram Lamp<br />
|----<br />
|313<br />
|28<br />
|0.17<br />
|3.5<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House<br />
|----<br />
|447<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
|----<br />
|455<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.5<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Blinker<br />
|----<br />
|545<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.31<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers<br />
|----<br />
|555<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Common GI bulb<br />
|----<br />
|906<br />
|13.0<br />
|.69<br />
|6.00<br />
|1000<br />
|T-5 Wedge<br />
|Flash Lamp<br />
|----<br />
|1251<br />
|28.0<br />
|.23<br />
|3.00<br />
|2,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps<br />
|----<br />
|1683<br />
|28.0<br />
|1.02<br />
|32.00<br />
|500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed Topper Lamp<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.<br />
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.<br />
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.<br />
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)<br />
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter<br />
<br />
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Sockets=<br />
<br />
=Fuse Table=<br />
<br />
<center><font size="4">'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</font></center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center><br />
<br />
{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 5A<br />
| BR, DC coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 10A<br />
| Main, BR, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|- align="left"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils-under PF<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Displays<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Service outlet<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Main line power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/16A<br />
| High Voltage on SDB<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| Display power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main, coils, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 4A<br />
| 12v/5v power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB<br />
| PS, lamps, displays<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| 5A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 15A<br />
| General Illumination<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 20A<br />
| Switched Lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Display high voltage<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Power supply (displays)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB<br />
| Display driver board<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Aux board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Sound board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Power supply, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| 5v power (L7 games)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 20A<br />
| General illumination<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 1/10A<br />
| Cabinet, displays<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega &amp; New Stern'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| Display<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB<br />
| Display<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB<br />
| 12v PS F101<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Lamps, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB<br />
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Coils, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB<br />
| Switched lamps, line<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Line, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB<br />
| Coils main F108<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Power line, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| T2.5A<br />
| Audio F501, F502<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Game Software (ROMs)=<br />
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features and these home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]<br />
<br />
Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. DO NOT depend on the labels on the replacement roms "matching" a direction on your machine! ALWAYS check the orientation based on the notches. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement. <br />
<br />
Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.<br />
<br />
Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.<br />
<br />
=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=<br />
<br />
==Leveling the Game==<br />
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After your done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting the Game Pitch==<br />
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.<br />
<br />
==Balls==<br />
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.<br />
<br />
:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting flippers==<br />
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.<br />
<br />
:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.<br />
<br />
:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.<br />
<br />
:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.<br />
<br />
:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting drop targets==<br />
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well). Take caution in cleaning the drop target face. If a face is stamped with artwork, most chemicals (even mild ones) will remove the artwork.<br />
<br />
:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.<br />
<br />
===Williams===<br />
:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.<br />
<br />
:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.<br />
<br />
:Later Williams' drop banks went to a two-spring design, one to pull the target down, and one coil spring to push the target forward on reset. This design started sometime around the Big Guns era. There's not a lot of adjustment needed in this type of target other than to clean them very well, and to ensure that the rubber grommets and the washer/screw combination are not too tight. They should be tightened just enough so the target will reset properly, but not so much that the target drops slowly. The weak points of this design are the ledge the drop targets rest on, and the studs used to hold the drop target reset coil stop. Originally, a small strip of tempered, spring steel was used for the ledge. This piece of spring steel was riveted to the drop target assy. frame. If it cracks or breaks, a single target or targets in the bank will not properly reset, as there is no ledge for them to rest in the up position. Williams realized this issue, and later versions of this type of drop target assy., somewhere around Earthshaker, were made with a replaceable ledge. Likewise, the coil stops were mounted with studs integrated into the drop target frame assy. These studs can snap off flush with the frame, allowing only one side or neither to hold the coil stop in place. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Gottlieb===<br />
:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their original design. There are 2 discrete springs used; one to pull the drops in the proper direction to reset correctly, and another to provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.<br />
<br />
:The 2-spring Gottlieb design changed during the system 80B era. This design change moved the reset coil from the outside of the drop target assy. to the underside, center of the assy. on small and single banks. Multiple reset coils were still used on banks larger than 4 targets. The benefit of the new design was less moving parts and a slightly smaller mounting footprint. However, the newer design eliminated the two spring design, and the smooth even stroke for the reset. While the targets still drop down smartly, on reset occasionally they will reset too high, or some targets will fail to reset, if the reset coil is not adjusted properly. Well beyond the time of the initial design change, some System 3 games use a combination of the old and new style drop target assys. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Bally===<br />
:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.<br />
<br />
:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place. Be sure any added shims don't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.<br />
<br />
:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.<br />
<br />
:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chiclet" style for over 25 years.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Stern (Classic)===<br />
:Classic Stern drops, commonly referred to as "chiclets", were originally similar to the Bally "tombstone" style, and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the playfield, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.<br />
<br />
:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking a pop bumper==<br />
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.<br />
<br />
:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.<br />
<br />
:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.<br />
<br />
:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.<br />
<br />
==Tuning a spinner==<br />
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.<br />
<br />
:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 2000 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.<br />
<br />
:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.<br />
<br />
:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.<br />
<br />
:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==<br />
:Most would ask why you would <b>want</b> to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.<br />
<br />
:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.<br />
<br />
:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.<br />
<br />
:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).<br />
<br />
:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.<br />
<br />
:Shaking a pin is a part of the game, and possibly the greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.<br />
<br />
==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==<br />
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).<br />
<br />
:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.<br />
<br />
:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.<br />
<br />
:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking lane guides==<br />
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.<br />
<br />
:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.<br />
<br />
:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size small then needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.<br />
<br />
:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.<br />
<br />
:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.<br />
<br />
:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or has its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.<br />
<br />
==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==<br />
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.<br />
<br />
:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.<br />
<br />
==Plungers==<br />
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.<br />
<br />
:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.<br />
<br />
:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a different tension to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.<br />
<br />
==Coil Sleeves==<br />
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.<br />
<br />
:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid.<br />
<br />
==Connectors and Soldering==<br />
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems.<br />
<br />
:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Resoldering the header pins will fix this issue and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.<br />
<br />
:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.<br />
<br />
==Slingshots==<br />
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back.<br />
<br />
:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.<br />
<br />
:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is twofold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling).<br />
<br />
:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. You will usually see some slop in a sling mech; if it's excessive power will be lost laterally on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or try and find small nylon washers to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).<br />
<br />
==Standup/stationary Targets==<br />
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bent so the target leans backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.<br />
<br />
:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes. Inspect the switch blades that make up the target and straighten any out that are mangled.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Burning_EPROMS&diff=4859Burning EPROMS2011-09-05T17:10:52Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>Pinball machines use three types of programmable devices. By far the most common are EPROMs, used to store code, sound and graphics for solid state machines. They can be erased and re-used any times. Early machines use bipolar PROMs, devices that can be programmed only once. And many machines use programmable logic, with simpler devices (PALs and GALs) replacing a handful of TTL chips, and more complex devices carrying most of a video or sound subsystem.<br />
<br />
For most people, programmers capable of handling mainstream EPROMs (2732 (32k) - 27C080 (8 meg)) are sufficient. <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Willem Programmers'''<br />
<br />
These programmer are the least expensive available. They all run using open-source software. The simplest systems run from the parallel port and an external power supply, and have a tricky configuration using DIP switches and jumpers. Upgrades to the basic devices include USB power (you still need the parallel port); USB interface and power; and electronic configuration.<br />
<br />
Recommended True USB version $80 - 120<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Pocket Programmer'''<br />
<br />
Designed and built in the U.S., these devices have been the standard for the industry. Programs 2708 with an adapter.<br />
<br />
Recomended: USB version, about $270<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Wellon Programmers'''<br />
<br />
Designed and made in China,these devices use programmable pin drivers rather than TTL to program the parts. This approach means that Wellons can program a wider range of devices than other programmers, including PALs and GALs used in the logic of many modern machines. This is the author's preferred device because of its flexibility and up-to-date software and drivers (Windows 7 64 is supported). <br />
<br />
Recommended: VP280, $120<br />
<br />
There are significant;y more expensive systems available that can program a full range of devices. However, these are unnecessary for most people, and the new low-cost programmer are just fine.<br />
<br />
== EPROMS ==<br />
<br />
EPROMs are an obsolete technology, but were the standard for embedded code and data from the mid-1970s until the emergence of flash memory. They made sophisticated pinball systems possible, providing digital storage for code, sound and graphics. They work by injecting electrons into a charge storage area using a relatively high voltage. EPROM programmers must generate these voltages, which is why some early devices are not supported by all programmers. <br />
<br />
'''Buying EPROMS'''<br />
<br />
New EPROMS are very rare, but "pulls" - used EPROMs taken from obsolete electronic devices - are regularly available on eBay or from online sellers. The best pulls have been erased, tested, have had labels and residue removed, and their legs straightened. Expect to pay a little more for this service. <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Erasing EPROMS'''<br />
<br />
You don't have to have an EPROM eraser. But they are helpful if you need to erase some pulls that were not cleaned, programmed the wrong code, or want to recycle some parts. EPROM erasers use a short wavelength UV light to neutralize the charges stored in the EPROM cells. Cheap ones capable of doing a few EPROMS at a time are available for maybe $20. Much bigger erasers - used - pop up on eBay for about $50</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Burning_EPROMS&diff=4821Burning EPROMS2011-09-01T05:45:56Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>Pinball machines use three types of programmable devices. By far the most common are EPROMs, used to store code, sound and graphics for solid state machines. They can be erased and re-used any times. Early machines use bipolar PROMs, devices that can be programmed only once. And many machines use programmable logic, with simpler devices (PALs and GALs) replacing a handful of TTL chips, and more complex devices carrying most of a video or sound subsystem.<br />
<br />
For most people, programmers capable of handling mainstream EPROMs (2732 (32k) - 27C080 (8 meg)) are sufficient. <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Willem Programmers'''<br />
<br />
These programmer are the least expensive available. They all run using open-source software. The simplest systems run from the parallel port and an external power supply, and have a tricky configuration using DIP switches and jumpers. Upgrades to the basic devices include USB power (you still need the parallel port); USB interface and power; and electronic configuration. <br />
Recommended True USB version $80 - 120<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Pocket Programmer'''<br />
<br />
Designed and built in the U.S., these devices have been the standard for the industry. Programs 2708 with an adapter.<br />
Recomended: USB version, about $270<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Wellon Programmers'''<br />
<br />
Designed and made in China,these devices use programmable pin drivers rather than TTL to program the parts. This approach means that Wellons can program a wider range of devices than other programmers, including PALs and GALs used in the logic of many modern machines. <br />
Recommended: VP280, $120<br />
<br />
== EPROMS ==<br />
<br />
EPROMs are an obsolete technology, but were the standard for embedded code and data from the mid-1970s until the emergence of flash memory. They made sophisticated pinball systems possible, providing digital storage for code, sound and graphics. They work by injecting electrons into a charge storage area using a relatively high voltage. EPROM programmers must generate these voltages, which is why some early devices are not supported by all programmers. <br />
<br />
'''Buying EPROMS'''<br />
<br />
New EPROMS are very rare, but "pulls" - used EPROMs taken from obsolete electronic devices - are regularly available on eBay or from online sellers. The best pulls have been erased, tested, have had labels and residue removed, and their legs straightened. Expect to pay a little more for this service. <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Erasing EPROMS'''<br />
<br />
You don't have to have an EPROM eraser. But they are helpful if you need to erase some pulls that were not cleaned, programmed the wrong code, or want to recycle some parts. EPROM erasers use a short wavelength UV light to neutralize the charges stored in the EPROM cells. Cheap ones capable of doing a few EPROMS at a time are available for maybe $20. Much bigger erasers - used - pop up on eBay for about $50</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Burning_EPROMS&diff=4820Burning EPROMS2011-09-01T04:38:49Z<p>Mr: Created page with " Pinball machines use three types of programmable devices. By far the most common are EPROMs, used to store code, sound and graphics for solid state machines. They can be erased ..."</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
Pinball machines use three types of programmable devices. By far the most common are EPROMs, used to store code, sound and graphics for solid state machines. They can be erased and re-used any times. Early machines use bipolar PROMs, devices that can be programmed only once. And many machines use programmable logic, with simpler devices (PALs and GALs) replacing a handful of TTL chips, and more complex devices carrying most of a video or sound subsystem.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Willem Programmers<br />
These programmer are the least expensive available. They all run using open-source software. The simplest systems run from the parallel port and an external power supply, and have a tricky configuration using DIP switches and jumpers. Upgrades to the basic devices include USB power (you still need the parallel port); USB interface and power; and electronic configuration. <br />
Recommended True USB version $80 - 120<br />
<br />
Pocket Programmer<br />
Designed and built in the U.S., these devices have been the standard for the industry. Programs 2708 with an adapter;<br />
Recomended: USB version, about $270<br />
<br />
<br />
Wellon Programmers<br />
Designed and made in China,these devices use programmable pin drivers rather than TTL to program the parts. This approach means that Wellons can program a wider range of devices than other programmers. <br />
Recommended: VP280, $120</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page/Navigation&diff=4819Main Page/Navigation2011-09-01T03:12:45Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div><div style="margin: -.3em -1em -1em -1em;"><br />
{| style="float:left" width="100%" bgcolor="#fff" border="0" cellpadding="2px" cellspacing="2px"<br />
|- align="center" bgcolor="#e7eef6"<br />
! width="30%" | '''Repair Guides'''<br />
! width="30%" | '''Resources'''<br />
! width="30%" | '''General'''<br />
! width="1%" | '''<div style="font-size:85%;"><span class="plainlinks">[http://pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Main_Page/Navigation&action=edit edit]</span></div>'''<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF; font-size: 92%;"<br />
|<br />
*[[PinWiki Contributors ReadMe|<font color=Green><b>PinWiki Contributors ReadMe & Account Creation</b></font>]]<br />
----<br />
*[[Beginner's Notes|<b>Pinball Beginners Start Here</b>]]<br />
----<br />
*[[General|<b>General for All Games</b>]]<br />
----<br />
*[[EM Repair| EM Games (Electromechanical)]]<br />
*Solid State Games<br />
**[[ALI/Fascination Repair|Allied Leisure / Fascination]]<br />
**[[Atari Repair|Atari]]<br />
**[[Bally/Stern Electronics Repair Guides| Bally/Stern (classic)]]<br />
**[[Capcom Repair|Capcom]]<br />
**[[Data East/Sega/Stern Pinball Repair Guides| Data East/Sega/Stern (modern)]]<br />
**[[Gameplan Repair|Gameplan]]<br />
**[[Gottlieb Repair Guides|Gottlieb]]<br />
**[[Jersey Jack Repair Guides|Jersey Jack]]<br />
**[[Williams Repair Guides|Williams and Bally/Williams]]<br />
|<br />
* [[rec.games.pinball Access Methods|rec.games.pinball (RGP) Access Methods]]<br />
* [[Pinball Parts Suppliers]]<br />
* [[General#Tools_of_the_Trade| Pinball Tools]]<br />
* [[Pinball Part Data Sheets]]<br />
* [[Pinball Board Repair Services]]<br />
* [[What is a Pinball Machine Worth?]]<br />
* [[Pinball Restoration]]<br />
* [[Rubber and Rubber Kits]]<br />
* [[Burning EPROMS]]<br />
|<br />
* <span class="plainlinks">[http://www.pinwiki.com/newsletter/?p=subscribe&id=1 Pop Bumper Newsletter]</span><br />
* [[Help:Contents|Wiki Formatting Tips]]<br />
* [[FAQ - The Questions That Get Asked on RGP Every Week]]<br />
* [[Glossary|Glossary Of Pinball Terms]]<br />
* [[History|The Evolution of Pinball]]<br />
* [[:Category:People|People]]<br />
* [[Tournaments]]<br />
* [[Where To Play]]<br />
* [[Vehicles for Moving Pinball Machines]]<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
</div></div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicles_for_Moving_Pinball_Machines&diff=4619Vehicles for Moving Pinball Machines2011-08-14T23:00:59Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>Often on the rec.games.pinball newsgroup, there are discussions over which vehicles will or will not hold a pinball machine (Here's a link to the [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/search?hl=en&group=rec.games.pinball&q=will+a+pin+fit+in+a question as asked on RGP]). <br />
<br />
Below is a listing of vehicles, as well as specifics regarding said vehicles.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>2009 Mitsubishi Outlander</b> - Has been used to move Williams Black Knight, Gottlieb 300, Williams Pin*Bot, Williams Flash, Gottlieb World Fair; will likely not hold a game with a non-standard plunger, such as a Terminator 2, Shadow, or Guns & Roses<br />
<br />
<b>2000 Grand Cherokee Limited</b> - Can easily fit two wedgies, or one wedgie and one multi player EM game. Typically one wedgie head goes on the passenger seat. The larger of the two heads goes immediately behind the passenger seat. Two 2x4 platforms need to be constructed and used to raise the games above the wheel wells.<br />
<br />
<b>2003 Honda CR-V</b> - Can fit one pinball machine easily; fold down back seat and using cardboard to slide game at angle into the car; coin door should be facing toward the front of the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<b>2009 Honda Pilot</b> - Can easily fit one pinball machine or possibly two; back two rows of seating need to be folded down; will also fit two standard width games if the heads are <br />
removable; has also been used to move one older game with the head removed and one game <br />
with the head still on (both standard width games: The Simpsons Pinball <br />
Party and Eight Ball).<br />
<br />
<b>Chevy Tahoe; year not specified</b> - Will fit all standard and wide body pinball machines with back seat folded down<br />
<br />
<b>Nissan Pathfinder; year not specified</b> - Will fit any standard or wide body with the two back <br />
rows of seats folded down<br />
<br />
<b>PT Cruiser; year not specified</b> - Will fit with rear seats removed<br />
<br />
<b>Volkswagen Jetta SportWagon; year not specified</b> - Will hold machine; "a bit too tight for a <br />
fold-down newer game though"<br />
<br />
<b>Ford Focus wagon; year not specified</b> - Will hold WPC machine + dolly<br />
<br />
<b>Honda Fit; year not specified</b> - Will hold games of unspecified vintage<br />
<br />
<b>2003 - 2006 Scion Xb</b> - Will fit any pin<br />
<br />
<b>2008+ Scion Xb</b> - Will fit any pin<br />
<br />
<b>Toyota Matrix</b> - Will fit machines with head removed; includes WPC89, System 11, Bally SS, and Bally wide body (specifically Paragon); load body shooter first, then slide in head next to it; place moving blanket between them and a ratchet strap over top<br />
<br />
1985 Chevy Chevette - fit a Bally Playboy. Back seat folded down - loaded body through hatch, legs next to it, head on passenger seat (have to use right hand to hold head and shift-lol). FYI - yes I got the hatch closed!<br />
<br />
<b>2004+ Honda Odyssey</b> - Two EMs with heads off fit in the back with the middle seats still in and heads behind the front seats (but it's tight). For pins with heads folded, only one fits.<br />
<br />
<b>2000 Subaru Forester</b> - Back seats folded down - fits WPC, early 80's Bally, modern Stern, Williams Joust. Late 80's Bally, Safecracker, Banzai Run has to be put in on their side.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General&diff=3910General2011-06-30T01:58:47Z<p>Mr: /* Soldering Irons */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Introduction=<br />
<br />
This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.<br />
<br />
= Parts to have on hand =<br />
'''All Machines'''<br />
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.<br />
<br />
'''Electromechanical Machines'''<br />
<br />
'''Solid State Machines'''<br />
<br />
*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a general replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.<br />
*TIP-102 Transistors<br />
*IN4004 Diodes<br />
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most flexible)<br />
<br />
=Tools of the Trade=<br />
<br />
You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.<br />
<br />
==Mechanical Tools==<br />
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches<br />
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy<br />
*Nut driver set, which should include<br />
**1/4" (red) nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts<br />
**5/16 (yellow) nut driver - used for #6 nuts<br />
**11/32 (green) nut driver - #8 nuts<br />
**3/8 nut (blue) driver - used for #10 nuts<br />
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts<br />
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these. <br />
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.<br />
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.<br />
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.<br />
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.<br />
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.<br />
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench<br />
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts<br />
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench<br />
*Pliers<br />
*High-brightness LED flashlight<br />
*Magnetic pickup tool<br />
*Magnetic parts dish<br />
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)<br />
<br />
== Electrical Tools ==<br />
<br />
*A few alligator clip leads for testing<br />
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.<br />
*Side cutters<br />
*Wire stripper<br />
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.<br />
*For Connector Work<br />
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...<br />
**Connector pin pusher .093"<br />
**Connector pin pusher .062"<br />
<br />
'''Molex Crimper Styles'''<br />
<br />
[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]<br />
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
==Soldering Irons==<br />
<br />
Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.<br />
<br />
Portable:<br />
<br />
These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.<br />
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class)<br><br />
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller)<br><br />
Corded:<br />
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade)<br><br />
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade)<br><br />
Station:<br />
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)<br />
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)<br />
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)<br />
<br />
==Desoldering Tools==<br />
<br />
A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.<br />
<br />
There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.<br />
<br />
Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.<br />
<br />
Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.<br />
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.<br />
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.<br />
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use<br />
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.<br />
<br />
==Rework Solder Stations==<br />
<br />
*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) <br><br />
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder ectractor)<br />
<br />
==EM Tools==<br />
<br />
*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.<br />
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.<br />
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.<br />
<br />
==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==<br />
<font color=red>In work</font><br />
<br />
=Soldering=<br />
<br />
Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering. <br />
<br />
NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!<br />
<br />
==Equipment and Supplies==<br />
<br />
===The basic soldering iron===<br />
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. Once example is the Weller WESD-51.<br />
<br />
===Tip Cleaner===<br />
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.<br />
<br />
===Solder===<br />
A wide range of solders are available. Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. For completing clean "OEM-like" solder joints, a "no clean" solder like Kester .031 diameter 63/37 no-clean solder, Kester part number 24-6337-5400, can be used. As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. Here is one supplier of Kester "no-clean" solder: [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life]<br />
<br />
===Optional Equipment===<br />
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.<br />
<br />
==Soldering wires==<br />
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything. <br />
<br />
Here are the simple steps:<br />
<br />
#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.<br />
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.<br />
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.<br />
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool. <br />
<br />
As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts down the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or clamps are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, the solder connection will end up with what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.<br />
<br />
'''Things to Know'''<br />
<br />
*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and you will have a bad joint.<br />
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. So once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.<br />
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, simply melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that hooking the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.<br />
<br />
== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==<br />
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.<br />
<br />
Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult.<br />
<br />
The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.<br />
<br />
<font color=Red><still work in progress></font><br />
<br />
==Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"==<br />
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.<br />
<br />
A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.<br />
<br />
[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]]<br><br />
'''Procedure''':<br><br />
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch".<br><br />
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough.<br><br />
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire.<br><br />
#Solder the first side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch.<br><br />
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place.<br><br />
#All done!<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Desoldering=<br />
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each<br />
<br />
Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts<br />
<br />
=Testing an integrated circuit=<br />
<br />
Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.<br />
<br />
This test works for any 74XX series IC.<br />
<br />
[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]<br />
'''Procedure''':<br />
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test. <br />
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".<br />
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if having to test multiple chips on the same board.<br />
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
'''Interpreting the results:'''<br />
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK.<br><br />
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics.<br><br />
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip.<br><br />
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.<br />
*Comparing your results against test results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.<br />
<BR><br />
<br />
Readings outside of this range my indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=Testing fuses=<br />
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.<br />
<br />
One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".<br />
<br />
Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.<br />
<br />
This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.<br />
<br />
Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.<br />
<br />
=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red size=4><b><Note: this is an experimental article layout...still thinking about it a bit and I have some content I'll upload this weekend....Chris Hibler></b></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on FETs></font><br><br />
<font color=Red><need to add a separate section on SCRs></font><br><br />
<br />
A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used excepct for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators. <br />
<br />
When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own. <br />
<br />
<br />
Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)<br />
<br />
[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:<br />
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right<br />
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards<br />
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC<br />
*TO-202, such as a MPS-U45 (or replacement CEN-U45) as found on Gottlieb driver boards<br />
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE<br />
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)<br />
<br />
Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.<br />
<br />
Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout.<br><br />
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''.<br><br />
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading<br />
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
<br />
'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)<br />
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the red lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)<br />
#Place the <font color=Red>'''red'''</font> lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor<br />
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead<br />
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor<br />
#Probe the center leg with the black lead<br />
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.<br />
<br />
=Testing a coil=<br />
<br />
If a driver transistor shorts on, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil wire gets hot enough, it will burn out its plastic coating, shorting the wires and dropping the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the broken driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged.<br />
<br />
If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is very wise to check each coil's resistance *before* switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it!<br />
<br />
Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power coil and a hold coil. These are normally identified as having three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.<br />
<br />
==Testing resistance==<br />
To test a coil's resistance:<br />
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs. <br />
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault. <br />
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (ie the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or driver transistor issue. <br />
<br />
It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before replacing it and powering on again.<br />
<br />
==Testing for coil power==<br />
With the machine powered on:<br />
* set your DMM to DC<br />
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one). <br />
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-60v.<br />
<br />
Please note that some games have a door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids or may only supply power to the coils during test/game modes.<br />
<br />
==Testing the coil diode==<br />
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.<br />
<br />
To test a coil diode:<br />
<br />
* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.<br />
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.<br />
* Place the black lead on the non-banded side.<br />
* Place the red lead on the banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.<br />
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'<br />
<br />
==Testing the driver transistors==<br />
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" at [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=<br />
Need to cover...<br><br />
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs)<br><br />
SOIC to DIP adapters<br><br />
<br />
==Resistor Networks==<br />
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.<br />
<br />
Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.<br />
<br />
<center><br />
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations"><br />
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Bussed Resistor Network</b></center><br />
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center><b>Isolated Resistor Network</b></center><br />
</gallery><br />
</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.<br />
<br />
Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors.<br clear=all><br />
<br />
Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1.<br><br />
<font color=Red><need a picture of this></font><br />
<br />
=The Switch Matrix=<br />
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.<br />
<br />
The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required. <br />
<br />
<u>'''How a switch matrix works'''</u><br />
<br />
Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.<br />
<br />
Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse). <br />
<br />
A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines.<br><br />
<br />
<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center><br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<u>'''General Switch Matrix Debugging Tips'''</u><br />
<br />
Switch matrix problem diagnosis always begins with determining whether the problem is on the CPU or on the playfield.<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Under construction...</font><br><br />
Discuss using a diode/jumper to connect row and column at the CPU board.<br><br />
Discuss finding the "at fault" switch if the problem is on the PF.<br><br />
Insert animation created by Hibler/Palson here.<br><br />
<br />
=The Lamp Matrix=<br />
<br />
Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.<br />
<br />
'''How the lamp matrix works'''<br />
<br />
A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.<br />
<br />
The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.<br />
<br />
The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.<br />
<br />
'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''<br />
<br />
#Fewer wires<br />
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp matrix problems'''<br />
<br />
#Single lamp out<br />
#Single lamp locked on<br />
#multiple lamps in a row<br />
#multiple lamps in a column<br />
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not<br />
<br />
'''Typical causes'''<br />
<br />
#Wiring shorts<br />
#Shorted diode(s)<br />
<br />
=How coils are driven=<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Under construction...</font><br><br />
Discuss "finding ground" via a controlled transistor to turn on a coil.<br />
<br />
Every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at the coils lugs. All that is required is for the ground lug of coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor.<br />
<br />
=Flippers=<br />
<br />
;How does a flipper work?<br />
:Flippers have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the fuse to blow.<br />
<br />
;High Voltage flipper operation<br />
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.<br />
<br />
:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.<br />
<br />
:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.<br />
<br />
:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.<br />
<br />
;Solid State Flipper operation<br />
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.<br />
<br />
:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.<br />
<br />
:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.<br />
<br />
=Coil Chart=<br />
<br />
Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at<br />
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html<br />
<br />
This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Chart=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Voltage (V)<br />
!Current(A)<br />
!Candle Power<br />
!Life (hours)<br />
!Base<br />
!Typical Use<br />
|----<br />
|44<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Common GI bulb<br />
|----<br />
|47<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power<br />
|----<br />
|55<br />
|7.0<br />
|.41<br />
|2.00<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47<br />
|----<br />
|67<br />
|13.5<br />
|.59<br />
|4.0<br />
|5,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|F-14 Tomcat Flash Lamps<br />
|----<br />
|73<br />
|14.0<br />
|.80<br />
|.30<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
|----<br />
|86<br />
|6.3<br />
|.20<br />
|.40<br />
|15,000<br />
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)<br />
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism<br />
|----<br />
|89<br />
|13.0<br />
|.58<br />
|6.00<br />
|750<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC<br />
|----<br />
|194<br />
|14.0<br />
|.27<br />
|2.00<br />
|1,500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Whitewater Topper Lamps<br />
|----<br />
|199<br />
|12.8<br />
|2.25<br />
|32.00<br />
|1500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|HS2 Getaway Topper Lamp, CFTBL Hologram Lamp<br />
|----<br />
|313<br />
|28<br />
|0.17<br />
|3.5<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House<br />
|----<br />
|447<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.15<br />
|0.5<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power<br />
|----<br />
|455<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.5<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)<br />
|Blinker<br />
|----<br />
|545<br />
|6.5<br />
|0.31<br />
|N/A<br />
|500<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers<br />
|----<br />
|555<br />
|6.3<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.9<br />
|3,000<br />
|Wedge<br />
|Common GI bulb<br />
|----<br />
|906<br />
|13.0<br />
|.69<br />
|6.00<br />
|1000<br />
|T-5 Wedge<br />
|Flash Lamp<br />
|----<br />
|1251<br />
|28.0<br />
|.23<br />
|3.00<br />
|2,000<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps<br />
|----<br />
|1683<br />
|28.0<br />
|1.02<br />
|32.00<br />
|500<br />
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)<br />
|High Speed Topper Lamp<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.<br />
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.<br />
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.<br />
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)<br />
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter<br />
<br />
Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.<br />
<br />
=Lamp Sockets=<br />
<br />
=Fuse Table=<br />
<br />
<center><font size="4">'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</font></center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center><br />
<br />
{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 5A<br />
| BR, DC coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 10A<br />
| Main, BR, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main line fuse<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps, coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| 15A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" |<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|- align="left"<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils-under PF<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Displays<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Service outlet<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Main line power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main power<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/16A<br />
| High Voltage on SDB<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Drop target bank<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| Display power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Main, coils, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 4A<br />
| 12v/5v power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB<br />
| PS, lamps, displays<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| 5A<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 10A<br />
| Lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 15A<br />
| General Illumination<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 20A<br />
| Switched Lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Display high voltage<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB<br />
| Power supply (displays)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB<br />
| Display driver board<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB<br />
| Aux board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Sound board<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Power supply, lamps<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| 5v power (L7 games)<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 6<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 20A<br />
| General illumination<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 1/10A<br />
| Cabinet, displays<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| 3/4A<br />
| 12v power supply<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| 8A<br />
| Main, switched lamps<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega &amp; New Stern'''<br />
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty<br />
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 3<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB<br />
| Display<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB<br />
| Display<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB<br />
| Coils, flippers<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB<br />
| 12v PS F101<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Lamps, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 5<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB<br />
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 4<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB<br />
| Coils, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB<br />
| Switched lamps, line<br />
|-<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Line, power supply<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB<br />
| Coils<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB<br />
| Coils main F108<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 1<br />
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB<br />
| Power line, lamps<br />
| width="4%" align="center" | 2<br />
| T2.5A<br />
| Audio F501, F502<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Game Software (ROMs)=<br />
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features and these home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]<br />
<br />
Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement. <br />
<br />
Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.<br />
<br />
Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.<br />
<br />
=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=<br />
<br />
==Leveling the Game==<br />
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After your done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting the Game Pitch==<br />
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.<br />
<br />
:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.<br />
<br />
==Balls==<br />
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.<br />
<br />
:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting flippers==<br />
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.<br />
<br />
:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.<br />
<br />
:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.<br />
<br />
:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.<br />
<br />
:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.<br />
<br />
==Adjusting drop targets==<br />
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well).<br />
<br />
:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.<br />
<br />
:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.<br />
<br />
:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their design, so there are 2 discrete springs used to pull the drops in the proper directions to reset correctly, and provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.<br />
<br />
:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.<br />
<br />
:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place, just be sure it doesn't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.<br />
<br />
:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.<br />
<br />
:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chichlet" style for over 25 years.<br />
<br />
:Classic Stern drops were originally similar to the "tombstone" Bally style (they're called "chichlets"), and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the pf, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.<br />
<br />
:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.<br />
<br />
:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking a pop bumper==<br />
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.<br />
<br />
:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.<br />
<br />
:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.<br />
<br />
:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.<br />
<br />
==Tuning a spinner==<br />
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.<br />
<br />
:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 200 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.<br />
<br />
:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.<br />
<br />
:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.<br />
<br />
:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==<br />
:Most would ask why you would <b>want</b> to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.<br />
<br />
:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.<br />
<br />
:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.<br />
<br />
:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).<br />
<br />
:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.<br />
<br />
:Shaking a pin is a part of the game, and possibly the greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.<br />
<br />
==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==<br />
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).<br />
<br />
:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.<br />
<br />
:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.<br />
<br />
:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.<br />
<br />
==Tweaking lane guides==<br />
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.<br />
<br />
:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.<br />
<br />
:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size small then needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.<br />
<br />
:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.<br />
<br />
:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.<br />
<br />
:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or have its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.<br />
<br />
==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==<br />
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.<br />
<br />
:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.<br />
<br />
==Plungers==<br />
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.<br />
<br />
:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.<br />
<br />
:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a different tension to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.<br />
<br />
==Coil Sleeves==<br />
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will just gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.<br />
<br />
:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid.<br />
<br />
==Connectors and Soldering==<br />
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems.<br />
<br />
:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Resoldering the header pins will fix this issue and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.<br />
<br />
:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.<br />
<br />
==Slingshots==<br />
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.<br />
<br />
:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back.<br />
<br />
:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.<br />
<br />
:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is twofold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling).<br />
<br />
:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. You will usually see some slop in a sling mech if it's excessive power will be lost laterally on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or try and find small nylon washers to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).<br />
<br />
==Standup/stationary Targets==<br />
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.<br />
<br />
:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bend so the target becomes leaning backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.<br />
<br />
:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Funhouse&diff=3857Funhouse2011-06-25T21:53:28Z<p>Mr: </p>
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<div>{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced<br />
|-<br />
|Williams || WPC-Alphanumeric || 1989 || 50003 || 10,750 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=966 Funhouse entry at ipdb.org]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/966/funhouse.htm Funhouse Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]<br />
<br />
[http://tiltwarning.com/blog/games-of-the-week/funhouse/ Funhouse strategy video from PAPA]<br />
<br />
<br />
Funhouse is one of the first games to use the basic WPC platform of WPC CPU and WPC power-driver board. Early versions used the System 11 sound board with an adapter. This version of the boardset is not compatible with the L9 software version. Later versions use the first WPC sound board. Funhouse is an alphanumeric display machine. It uses the "DISPLAY" header on the CPU board. Note that in WPC DMD machines, the DMD controller board connects to the AUX and I/O headers at the top of the CPU board. The DISPLAY connector is uses for auxiliary I/O in a DMD machine.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Game-Specific Issues =<br />
'''Upgrading to L-9 ROMs'''<br />
The latest version of the Funhouse game ROM is L-9. With this version the game ROM has increased to a 2M ROM from a 1M ROM. A jumper on the WPC board must be moved to use the larger ROM. The jumper at W2 must be removed and a jumper at W1 must be added. This is a somewhat simple board repair but if you do not have board soldering experience any [[Pinball_Board_Repair_Services |pinball tech]] can make this modification. A detailed explanation of this process can be found at [http://www.pinballroms.com/documents/rejumpering_wpc_cpu.htm John Wart's pinball website.] as well as [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/9KbjWNRPFEs/discussion a discussion at rec.games.pinball.]<br />
<br />
'''Servicing Funhouse and Roadshow Heads'''<br />
Full of tricky, but now-available parts, these heads are straightforward to service. There still seems to be an issue with poorly-made jaw gears that fracture early in service.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page/Navigation&diff=3748Main Page/Navigation2011-06-21T03:01:58Z<p>Mr: </p>
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<div><div style="margin: -.3em -1em -1em -1em;"><br />
{| style="float:left" width="100%" bgcolor="#fff" border="0" cellpadding="2px" cellspacing="2px"<br />
|- align="center" bgcolor="#e7eef6"<br />
! width="30%" | '''Repair Guides'''<br />
! width="30%" | '''Resources'''<br />
! width="30%" | '''General'''<br />
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</div></div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Eddy_Sensor_Boards&diff=3365Eddy Sensor Boards2011-06-06T01:52:52Z<p>Mr: </p>
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<div>In 1993, Williams introduced eddy sensors with Twilight Zone. Eddy sensors can detect the ball through the playfield, and are useful where an opto is awkward. Twilight Zone used eddy sensors to identify the ceramic powerball.<br />
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The eddy sensor depends on an IC specifically designed for the purpose, the TDA0161. This chip makes a coil oscillate, and can detect the losses in the coil. When a a ball comes near, the losses increase and the circuit stops oscillating. This design is more stable than designs that use frequency shift like a beachcomber's metal detector. <br />
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Eddy sensors can detect fast-moving balls. This is important for the Scared Stiff crate; the Theater of Magic trunk; the Cirqus Voltaire ringmaster; and the heads on Roadshow.<br />
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Tales of the Arabian Nights did not use eddys for its exit lanes. Instead, it placed an opto pair looking through the playfield. Safecracker and Cactus Canyon used special reed switches to detect the ball. <br />
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Earlier eddy boards used optocouplers as outputs. By Roadshow, Williams switched to a discrete circuit which increased the complexity of the board but presumably reduced the cost.<br />
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The eddy sensor is a reliable part. However, they require an accurate set point that varies between boards, because of variations in the components. <br />
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<br />
Small Eddy Sensor<br />
[[Image:Small Eddy PCB Sensor.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Small Eddy Sensor]]<br />
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Used in:<br />
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*Road Show, head jaw hit sensors (2)<br />
*Theater of Magic, trunk hit sensor<br />
* Scared Stiff, crate hit sensor<br />
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Twilight Zone Trough Eddy Sensor<br />
[[Image:Tztrougheddy.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Twilight Zone Trough Eddy Sensor]]<br />
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===What Goes Wrong?===<br />
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Eddys are reliable, but suffer from various long-term issues.<br />
<br />
[[Twilight Zone Eddy Boards]]<br />
<br />
[[Star Trek: The Next Generation Eddy Boards]]<br />
<br />
[[Roadshow Eddy Boards]]<br />
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[[Theater of Magic Eddy Boards]]<br />
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[[Scared Stiff Eddy Board]]<br />
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[[Cirqus Voltaire Eddy Boards]]<br />
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[[Monster Bash Eddy Boards]]</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_2000_Repair&diff=3293Pinball 2000 Repair2011-06-02T05:49:46Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
Pinball 2000 was the answer to a failing pinball industry. This was the last system used in a pinball machine before Williams ceased production of pinball machines. The reasons for why Williams ceased production is highly debated and more information can be found [[Williams#Cease Of Production|here]].<br />
<br />
This system was a hybrid of conventional pinball with a video aspect. Using a 19" arcade monitor and special playfield glass that is coated to reflect the image, creating the illusion of animated images standing on the playfield. To be able to handle both the pinball and video aspects of the game, the designers of Pinball 2000 used a commercial off the shelf PC based on a unique graphics and CPU processor, the Cyrix MediaGX. There are two proprietary components, the PRISM card, which contains the roms and booted the PC without a hard disk, and an audio amp. Unfortunately, the software requires the Cyrix MediaGX CPU for its display. The MediaGX did not sell well, and the boards and chips are now hard to find. <br />
<br />
==Games==<br />
*Revenge From Mars<br />
*Star Wars Episode 1<br />
*Wizard Blocks *<br />
*Playboy *<br />
'''''* Denotes a game that was never produced'''''<br />
<br />
==Technical Info==<br />
Pinball 2000 was run using a commercial PC with the Cyrix Media GX CPU The software depends on the integrated graphics in the Media GX CPU to operate. The PRISM card is a PCI card that carried the ROMs and ran the basic boot process of the PC to run Pinball 2000. Along with the PRISM card, the PC contained a custom audio amp to drive the stereo speakers and subwoofer. Optional pieces of hardware available for the Pinball 2000 system would be the XXX ethernet card and a barcode reader. These worked to be able to access bookkeeping info over the internet and also host tournaments involving barcode based "login" to the system.<br />
''Currently working on this, including adding pictures''<br />
<br />
==Problems and Solutions==<br />
===Power Problems===<br />
The AT power supply in the PC case is a common failure. If your power supply fails, you have 2 options: 1) find another AT power supply, or 2) Put an ATX power supply into your machine. The first option is becoming extremely hard to do because of how long AT power supplies haven't been used, it is hard to still find one. Option 2 involves cutting 2 wires out of the molex connector and connecting them to each other to force the motherboard to boot.<br />
[[File:Pin2K_Foam.png|200px|thumb|right|Trim foam to look like this]]<br />
===PC issues===<br />
One of the issues with the PC is that the fan on the CPU heatsink is prone to failure. Once the fan stops working, the CPU overheats and over time will eventually fail. A big factor that causes the fan to fail is the foam piece that goes across the lid. Due to heat, the glue gives up and it sags right down on top of the fan. The best thing to do is to trim it back to just over the PRISM card, which is the foam's original purpose.<br />
<br />
<p><br />
Another tip for prolonging your PC's life is to underclock the CPU., which will be detailed here once I pull up my info for it.<br />
</p><br />
[[File:Pin2K_PC.png|200px|thumb|left|Pinball 2000 PC inside the head]] <br />
[[File:Pin2K_PC_Inside.png|200px|thumb|right|Inside Pinball 2000 PC]]<br />
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===Solenoid problems===<br />
Be sure connectors are on coil lugs tight. Vibration can loosen them and burn the lugs, or on flipper coils if a connector slips off - they aren't insulated and can short to the next lug and take out a transistor for the flipper coil.<br />
===Lamp problems===<br />
[[File:Pin2K Lamp Test.png|200px|thumb|right|Lamp Test Menu]]<br />
With Pinball 2000 came some methods to help make operator maintenance easier. One of those features is a burnt out lamp detection. The only problem with this is that if you put LEDs in your machine, they draw to little current to be detected as good and will report as bad to your machine.<br />
<br />
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<br />
===Switch problems===<br />
The switches are a common failure on these machines. Most switch related problems are the switch itself not the switch matrix. There are 2 common switches in a Pinball 2000 machine which are XXX and XXX.<br />
===Monitor problems===<br />
The monitor inside a Pinball 2000 machine is a normal low-resolution arcade monitor. Two different brand CGA monitors were put in Pinball 2000 machines, a Wells-Gardener 19K7302 or a Ducksan CGM-1901CW. At this age, most of these monitors could use adjusting, if not a capaitor kit.<br />
<br />
Another option for Pinball 2000 monitors include purchasing an LCD and mounting it place of the CRT. This option will require a signal converter to convert the low resolution signal to something a VGA computer monitor can handle.<br />
<br />
===Sound problems===<br />
<br />
===Flipper problems===<br />
It should be noted that the E.O.S. switches are normally open.<br />
<br />
==Repair Logs==<br />
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_2000_Repair&diff=3292Pinball 2000 Repair2011-06-02T05:48:10Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
Pinball 2000 was the answer to a failing pinball industry. This was the last system used in a pinball machine before Williams ceased production of pinball machines. The reasons for why Williams ceased production is highly debated and more information can be found [[Williams#Cease Of Production|here]].<br />
<br />
This system was a hybrid of conventional pinball with a video aspect. Using a 19" arcade monitor and special playfield glass that is coated to reflect the image, creating the illusion of animated images standing on the playfield. To be able to handle both the pinball and video aspects of the game, the designers of Pinball 2000 used a commercial off the shelf PC, adding two proprietary components, the PRISM card, which contains the roms and booted the PC without a hard disk, and an audio amp. Unfortunately, the software requires the Cyrix MediaGX CPU for its display. The MediaGX did not sell well, and the boards and chips are now hard to find. <br />
<br />
==Games==<br />
*Revenge From Mars<br />
*Star Wars Episode 1<br />
*Wizard Blocks *<br />
*Playboy *<br />
'''''* Denotes a game that was never produced'''''<br />
<br />
==Technical Info==<br />
Pinball 2000 was run using a commercial PC with the Cyrix Media GX CPU The software depends on the integrated graphics in the Media GX CPU to operate. The PRISM card is a PCI card that carried the ROMs and ran the basic boot process of the PC to run Pinball 2000. Along with the PRISM card, the PC contained a custom audio amp to drive the stereo speakers and subwoofer. Optional pieces of hardware available for the Pinball 2000 system would be the XXX ethernet card and a barcode reader. These worked to be able to access bookkeeping info over the internet and also host tournaments involving barcode based "login" to the system.<br />
''Currently working on this, including adding pictures''<br />
<br />
==Problems and Solutions==<br />
===Power Problems===<br />
The AT power supply in the PC case is a common failure. If your power supply fails, you have 2 options: 1) find another AT power supply, or 2) Put an ATX power supply into your machine. The first option is becoming extremely hard to do because of how long AT power supplies haven't been used, it is hard to still find one. Option 2 involves cutting 2 wires out of the molex connector and connecting them to each other to force the motherboard to boot.<br />
[[File:Pin2K_Foam.png|200px|thumb|right|Trim foam to look like this]]<br />
===PC issues===<br />
One of the issues with the PC is that the fan on the CPU heatsink is prone to failure. Once the fan stops working, the CPU overheats and over time will eventually fail. A big factor that causes the fan to fail is the foam piece that goes across the lid. Due to heat, the glue gives up and it sags right down on top of the fan. The best thing to do is to trim it back to just over the PRISM card, which is the foam's original purpose.<br />
<br />
<p><br />
Another tip for prolonging your PC's life is to underclock the CPU., which will be detailed here once I pull up my info for it.<br />
</p><br />
[[File:Pin2K_PC.png|200px|thumb|left|Pinball 2000 PC inside the head]] <br />
[[File:Pin2K_PC_Inside.png|200px|thumb|right|Inside Pinball 2000 PC]]<br />
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<br />
===Solenoid problems===<br />
Be sure connectors are on coil lugs tight. Vibration can loosen them and burn the lugs, or on flipper coils if a connector slips off - they aren't insulated and can short to the next lug and take out a transistor for the flipper coil.<br />
===Lamp problems===<br />
[[File:Pin2K Lamp Test.png|200px|thumb|right|Lamp Test Menu]]<br />
With Pinball 2000 came some methods to help make operator maintenance easier. One of those features is a burnt out lamp detection. The only problem with this is that if you put LEDs in your machine, they draw to little current to be detected as good and will report as bad to your machine.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===Switch problems===<br />
The switches are a common failure on these machines. Most switch related problems are the switch itself not the switch matrix. There are 2 common switches in a Pinball 2000 machine which are XXX and XXX.<br />
===Monitor problems===<br />
The monitor inside a Pinball 2000 machine is a normal low-resolution arcade monitor. Two different brand CGA monitors were put in Pinball 2000 machines, a Wells-Gardener 19K7302 or a Ducksan CGM-1901CW. At this age, most of these monitors could use adjusting, if not a capaitor kit.<br />
<br />
Another option for Pinball 2000 monitors include purchasing an LCD and mounting it place of the CRT. This option will require a signal converter to convert the low resolution signal to something a VGA computer monitor can handle.<br />
<br />
===Sound problems===<br />
<br />
===Flipper problems===<br />
It should be noted that the E.O.S. switches are normally open.<br />
<br />
==Repair Logs==<br />
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC&diff=3082Williams WPC2011-05-25T05:05:51Z<p>Mr: /* General Illumination Problems */</p>
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<div>{{WIP}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This guide covers Williams WPC, WPC-S, and WPC-95 games.<br />
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==Game List==<br />
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==='''WPC (Alphanumeric)'''===<br />
*[[Funhouse]]<br />
*[[Harley-Davidson]]<br />
*[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot]]<br />
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==='''WPC (Dot Matrix)'''===<br />
*[[Gilligan's Island]]<br />
*[[Terminator 2: Judgement Day]]<br />
*[[Hurricane]]<br />
*[[Party Zone]]<br />
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===WPC Fliptronics I & II===<br />
*[[The Addams Family]] / Addams Family Gold<br />
*[[The Getaway: High Speed II]]<br />
*[[Black Rose]]<br />
*[[Fish Tales]]<br />
*[[Doctor Who]]<br />
*[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]<br />
*[[White Water]]<br />
*[[Bram Stoker's Dracula]]<br />
*[[Twilight Zone]]<br />
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==='''WPC DCS Sound'''===<br />
*[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]<br />
*[[Judge Dredd]]<br />
*[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]<br />
*[[Popeye Saves The Earth]]<br />
*[[Demolition Man]]<br />
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==='''WPC-S CPU'''===<br />
*[[World Cup Soccer]]<br />
*[[The Flintstones]]<br />
*[[Corvette]]<br />
*[[Red & Ted Road Show]]<br />
*[[The Shadow]]<br />
*[[Dirty Harry]]<br />
*[[Theatre of Magic]]<br />
*[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports]]<br />
*[[Indianapolis 500]]<br />
*[[Johnny Mnemonic]]<br />
*[[Jack*Bot]]<br />
*[[WHO Dunnit]]<br />
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==='''WPC-95 CPU'''===<br />
*[[Congo]]<br />
*[[Attack from Mars]]<br />
*[[Safecracker]]<br />
*[[Tales of the Arabian Nights]]<br />
*[[Scared Stiff]]<br />
*[[Junk Yard]]<br />
*[[NBA Fastbreak]]<br />
*[[Medieval Madness]]<br />
*[[Cirqus Voltaire]]<br />
*[[No Good Gofers]]<br />
*[[The Championship Pub]]<br />
*[[Monster Bash]]<br />
*[[Cactus Canyon]]<br />
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==Technical Info==<br />
Motorola 68B09E, running at 2Mhz. It is an 8-bit/16-bit CPU with a 64KB address space. Bank switching is required to address more than 64KB. The game ROM size varies from 128KB to 1MB, depending on the game. 8KB of battery backed RAM is available.<br />
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For more information, see [http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc/manual/The-WPC-Hardware.html#The-WPC-Hardware The FreeWPC Manual]<br />
===[[WPC Transformers|'''The WPC Transformer''']]===<br />
===[[The WPC System Boardset and History]]===<br />
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===WPC CPU Generations===<br />
====[[WPC CPU]]====<br />
====[[WPC-S CPU]]====<br />
====[[WPC-95 CPU]]====<br />
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===WPC Power/Driver Board Generations===<br />
====[[WPC-089 Power/Driver Board]]====<br />
====WPC-95 Power/Driver Board====<br />
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===[[WPC Dot Matrix Controller board]]===<br />
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===WPC Sound Boards===<br />
====[[WPC pre-DCS Sound Board]]====<br />
====[[WPC DCS Sound Board]]====<br />
====[[WPC-95 AV Board]]====<br />
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===WPC Fliptronics Boards===<br />
====[[WPC Fliptronics I board]]====<br />
====[[WPC Fliptronics II board]]====<br />
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===Miscellaneous WPC Boards===<br />
Note: Some of these might best be located in the "Game Specific Problems & Fixes" section. Perhaps the pervasiveness of their use within the WPC game list would drive the decision.<br />
====[[WPC 7 Opto Board]]====<br />
====[[WPC 10 Opto Board]]====<br />
====[[Auxiliary 8-Driver Board]]====<br />
as used in TZ, DM, IJ, etc...<br />
====[[Trough opto boards]]====<br />
====[[WH2O & CFTBL chaser lamp boards]]====<br />
====[[HSII & CFTBL triac board]]====<br />
====Coin Door Interface Board==== <br />
<br />
If your coin door interface board gets dusty from flipper parts wearing, clean it. That dust conducts electricity and will give you some interesting coinage issues.<br />
<br />
==Problems and Solutions==<br />
===MPU boot issues===<br />
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====<br />
Relocating the 3xAA battery pack from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of MPU boards. Simply removing the batteries is not an option with WPC games as you will always receive a "Factory Settings Restored" message when the game boots.<br />
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Options:<br />
#Remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won't leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board. Replace the batteries annually, dating them with a Sharpie! as you do.<br />
#Replace the 6264 static RAM with a SIMTEK non-volatile RAM (STK12C68). These SIMTEK RAM chips are increasingly hard to find but offer a nice alternative to changing batteries annually. This method requires desoldering/soldering on the MPU and also has the down-side of not maintaining the Real Time Clock (meaningless in some games...nice in games like Twilight Zone that moves the playfield "toy" clock to the current time during attract mode, and Who?Dunnit which has a "Midnight Madness" feature.<br />
<br />
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====<br />
===Game resets===<br />
====[[A disciplined process to eliminate WPC game resets]]====<br />
===Check fuses F114 and F115 message===<br />
This message is sometimes displayed when the game boots and a game cannot be started. Most of the time, F114/F115 will be found to be just fine. <br />
<br />
The game issues this message because it cannot read the switch matrix normally. The crafty designers at Williams inserted an “always closed“ switch into the matrix as switch 24. Switch 24 isn’t a switch at all, but instead provides the game software with a “known closed” switch matrix return. Switch 24 is actually a diode across column 2, row 4 of the switch matrix and is located on the coin door interface board.<br />
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Since the WPC switch matrix circuitry on the MPU uses 12V to determine switch state, the game assumes that the 12VDC power has been interrupted. F114/F115 fuse the 12V generation circuit; F114 on the AC side of BR1; F115 on the DC side of BR1. Hence, the game assumes that one of these fuses is blown and the message is displayed.<br />
<br />
<u>'''Diagnosing the problem'''</u><br />
<br />
Start by checking DC voltage at TP3. You should see about 12VDC. If not, follow these steps.<br />
<br />
#Actually check fuses F114 and F115 using the procedure [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_fuses| <b>here</b>]]. If a blown fuse is found, replace it. If F114 immediately blows again, then BR1 is probably shorted. Skip to the paragraph below to test the bridge.<br />
#Check LED6. If not lit (indicating the absence of 18V at TP8), then suspect BR1 or the filter caps for BR1, C6 and C7. If BR1 had failed shorted or if C6 or C7 where shorted (rare) then you would expect to see F114 blown. BR1 can be tested using the procedure below.<br />
#Check LED1. If not lit (indicating the absence of “digital” 12V at TP3, then test D1 and D2 (both 1N4004 diodes). If D1/D2 test good, then check continuity from pin 2 of the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2 to J114, pin 1. This verifies the path through F115.<br />
#If this all checks out, yet 12VDC is still not at TP3, then suspect the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2. Q2 is in a TO-220 package (like a TIP-102) and has a small heat sink attached.<br />
<br />
If TP3 does, in fact, have 12VDC present, then we need to dig deeper.<br />
<br />
#First check for 12VDC on the CPU board to ensure that the 12V is getting to the board via the 2 (and possibly 4 if your game has a “Z-Connector”) connectors that carry the 12VDC. An easy place to measure 12VDC on the CPU is at pin 10 of the ULN2803 (U20). Pin 10 is on the bottom row of pins, furthest left. Note that this connection (an also the 12VDC connection to pin 3 of the LM339s) is not shown on the schematic.<br />
#If the CPU is receiving 12VDC, and you still have the “Check fuses F114 and F115” message, then the problem lies within the CPUs switch matrix logic circuitry.<br />
#Prime candidates for CPU switch matrix failure are U20 (a ULN2803), the two LM339s at U18 and U19, the 74LS374 at U14, and the 74LS240 at U13. All of these ICs are in the “corrosion zone” caused by leaky alkaline batteries. If your CPU exhibits the “blue/green fuzzies”, address the alkaline damage first.<br />
#Testing the 74LSXXX ICs is simple using the procedure [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit| <b>here</b>]].<br />
#If coil power, flasher power, or even lamp power was somehow shorted to the switch matrix, there is a near 100% probability that the ULN2803 at U20 has been damaged. There is no good way to test the ULN2803 other than using a logic probe with the game powered on. Both the input side and the output side of the ULN2803 should be toggling between logic 0 and logic 1. If not, socket and replace the ULN2803.<br />
<br />
[[File:Test-br.jpg|160px|thumb|left|Checking an uninstalled bridge rectifier]]<br />
'''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.'''<br />
#Place your DMM into "diode test". <br />
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge.<br />
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.<br />
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes).<br />
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge.<br />
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.<br />
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen.<br />
<br />
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc).<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Wpc-br.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The heat sink covering BR1 and BR2 on a WPC-board]]<br />
Take special care when replacing a bridge rectifier. It is easy to lift the traces of the plated through holes when removing these. After removing the heat sink, cut the old bridge rectifier off of the board close to the top leaving as much of the lug as possible. Then add a small amount of solder to the connection on the solder side to improve heat transfer. Finally apply the iron to the solder side to heat the joint and remove the remaining lug with small pliers.<br />
<br />
When replacing the new bridge rectifier you should remove the old thermal compound and apply a new thin layer. The old compound can be removed with a little rubbing alcohol. Apply the thermal compound to the top of the bridge rectifiers and reattach the heat sink with the screws. It is much easier to replace the heat sink before resoldering the new bridge rectifier. Make sure that the heatsink is sitting flush with the tops of the bridge rectifiers and that you leave about a 5/8" gap between the bridge rectifier and the board to improve air flow.<br />
<br />
Splitting the heat sink between BR1 and BR2 was at one time thought to improve reliability. This is no longer considered a best practice and is not recommended. <br />
<br />
More info about replacing bridge rectifiers can be found in the section regarding [[A_disciplined_process_to_eliminate_WPC_game_resets#Failed_Bridge_Rectifier| <b>system resets</b>.]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Wps-diodes.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diodes replaced BR1 and BR2 on WPC-95 boards]]<br />
In WPC-95 games, BR1 and BR2 were replaced by a series of diodes. D11-D14 replaced BR1. D7-D10 replaced BR2. These are much less prone to failure. Still, they do fail on occasion. If they fail, it's best to replace all four in the "gang".<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===Voltage Problems - LED2 & LED3===<br />
<br />
LED2 and LED3 on the Power Driver Board are indicators for the line voltage detection circuit. On on-board comparator circuit uses +5V and +18V to check the line voltage. The comparator consists of a resistor voltage divider and an LM339 comparator.<br />
<br />
The following table shows how to interpret the LED states. Note that other problems with the +18V or +5V supply could cause a high or low line voltage indication.<br />
<br />
Line Voltage Indicator Chart<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!LED2<br />
!LED3<br />
!Voltage<br />
|-<br />
|On || Off || OK<br />
|-<br />
|Off || Off || High<br />
|-<br />
|On || On || Low<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Solenoid & Flasher problems===<br />
Before proceeding to diagnose solenoid or flasher problems, see this section: [[General#How are coils driven?| How coils and flashers are turned on]]<br />
===Lamp problems===<br />
<br />
Lamps (or globes for those of you in the UK) fall into two categories. "General Illumination" and "Controlled Lamps". Your game probably has other lamps which are actually "flashers" that require an 89 or 906 bulb. Flashers are covered elsewhere in this Wiki.<br />
<br />
General illumination lamps (GI) provide the ambient lighting for the playfield, backbox, and coin door. These lamps are list most of the time. The only "controllable" aspect of these lamps is their brightness.<br />
<br />
Controlled lamps are under complete CPU control via the lamp matrix. These lamps illuminate the various "features" of the game such as mode inserts, pop bumper lamps, inlane/outlane insert lamps, etc.<br />
<br />
====General Illumination Problems====<br />
<br />
'''Background'''<br />
<br />
The WPC power/driver board provides 5 GI circuits under CPU "brightness control". The WPC-95 power/driver board provides 3 GI circuits under CPU "brightness" control and 2 circuits that are always powered. Those two circuits are always connected to the backbox lamps.<br />
<br />
GI power is provided by the transformer in the form of 6.3VAC at power/driver board connector J115. Although there are five pairs of wires, they are all connected together at the transformer. One side of the AC GI circuit on the power/driver board is fused by F106 through F110 which are all 5ASB fuses. This side runs to the GI lamps, and carries 6.3VAC to the backbox, playfield, and coin door via power driver board connectors J120, J121, and J119 respectively. J119 is a 3-pin header that is always connected to the coin door lamps. J120 and J121 are electrically and physically identical (keyed at pin 4) and therefore can be connected to either the female playfield GI connector or the female backbox GI connector without care. The other side of the GI AC feed is connected to ground. <br />
<br />
<br />
The GI power is controlled by a triac in the return line from the playfield. When these triacs are off, no current passes and the lamps are off. When the triac is turned on, the GI lamps glow. The triac is a slightly special part - it must be a "four sector" triac. This means that it can switch both positive and negative sides of the AC cycle with only a positive signal. <br />
<br />
Each triac is switched on/off by a 2N5401 transistor which is controlled by U1, a 74LS374, an octal D-Type Flip-Flop with three state outputs (a fancy way of saying that the device is an 8-bit data buffer).<br />
<br />
The CPU can dim the GI by switching on the GI for only parts of the AC waveform. To do this, it uses a zero crossing signal generated from the 6.5VAC that feeds the 5V circuit. <br />
<br />
Wire colors to J115 during the early WPC games were always yellow (AC) and yellow-white (AC return). Pin 1 of J115 provides the "ground reference". Later WPC games used different wire colors at J115 and instead of "looping" power through the connector at J115, connected two wires to the same pin at the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.<br />
<br />
J119 is always keyed at pin2, with a <b>white-<font color=Purple>Violet</font></b> wire at pin 1 and a <b><font color=Purple>Violet</font></b> wire at pin 3<br />
<br />
J120 and J121 are 11 pin connectors. Wire color/positions (when used) are identical for all WPC games and are shown in the table.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!<center>&nbsp;Pin&nbsp;</center><br />
!&nbsp;Wire color at J120/J121&nbsp;<br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>1</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Brown>Brown</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>2</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Orange>Orange</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>3</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Yellow>Yellow</font></b> (yellow)<br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>4</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>Key</b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>5</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Green>Green</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>6</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Purple>Violet</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>7</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Brown>Brown</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>8</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Orange>Orange</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>9</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Yellow>Yellow</font></b> (yellow)<br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>10</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Green>Green</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>11</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Purple>Violet</font></b><br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''Common GI Problem Causes''' (listed by probability/ease of testing and correction)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''GI Bulbs Not Lighting'''<br />
<br />
Let's start by determining if the problem is "off board", i.e. not on your power/driver board, or "on board". <br />
<br />
#Take note of the wire color of the GI string that is not working. <br />
#Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.<br />
#Turn the game on.<br />
#Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector position with the same wire color as noted earlier. Make sure you make contact with the conductor.<br />
#Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector with the white wire that has the same color "tracer" as the color noted earlier.<br />
#You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.<br />
#If there is voltage at the connector, then the problem is "off board".<br />
#If there is no voltage at the connector, then the problem is "on board".<br />
<br />
'''<u>Off board GI problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
#'''All lamps blown.''' Don't laugh. Just for giggles, put a known working lamp into one of the lamp sockets of the suspected GI string. I've seen it more than once. Usually the result of operators never changing a bulb, or somehow connecting higher voltage to the circuit.<br />
#'''"Open" in GI wiring.''' The GI wires leading from J120/J121 may be cut/broken between the connector and the GI lamp sockets. Remove both of the female connectors at J120/J121. Use your DMM to check continuity between the lamp socket and the appropriate wire/pin at J120/J121.<br />
<br />
'''<u>On board GI problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
#'''Blown fuses.''' This is also the easiest problem to fix. Check each GI fuse following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_fuses| <b>procedure</b>]]. Don't trust your eyes.<br />
#'''Burned connectors.''' <need a picture> Over long periods of time, both the male and female GI connectors at J115, J120, and J121 often burn. This was especially prevalent in early WPC games like Terminator 2. Numerous "hacks" have been employed over the years by well meaning repairmen but the only real way to fix burned connectors is to replace both the male header pins and the female housings/pins. "Trifurcon" phosphor-bronze crimp-on pins are recommended to provide a better connection at the female connector. Note that these must be phosphor-bronze (7A rating, as original); don't buy them unless the supplier calls that out: the brass version looks the same, but is only rated at 5A.. <br />
Also, you must replace the headers if the connectors are burnt. The damaged surface of the pins will generate heat, and cause early failure of the replacement connector. Plus, the GI will be dimmer than it should be. <br />
J115 is a special case. The black Panduit connector that Williams used on many machines is far superior to any crimp pin, with a 12A rating (compared to 7A for phosphor-bronze Trifurcon pins). These, however, can be hard to find. Fortunately, they rarely burn. So don't mess with it unless it is bad.<br />
<br />
#'''Burned AC power input connector.''' There is also a 9-pin (3x3) connector between the transformer secondary and J115. This connector/pins sometimes burn and may require replacement. Check to ensure that AC power is being delivered to the power/driver board at J115.<br />
##Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.<br />
##Turn the game on.<br />
##Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 3.<br />
##Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 11.<br />
##You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.<br />
##If no voltage is present, examine the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.<br />
#'''Burned traces.''' Usually, this is a secondary problem created after the connectors burn. Visual inspection of the traces might uncover the problem, but "buzzing" them for continuity is the best practice.<br />
#'''Failed 2N5401.''' These don't fail very often, but are easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| <b>procedure</b>]].<br />
#'''Failed resistors.''' Again, these don't fail very often but are easy to test with your DMM. Keep in mind that "in-circuit" measurements may not be reliable.<br />
#'''Failed 74LS374.''' This is rare too but easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit | <b>procedure</b>]]. You can also test the outputs of the LS374 by probing pins 2, 5, 6, 16 and 19 with your logic probe. At full GI brightness, these pins should test as "high".<br />
#'''Failed Triac.''' These rarely fail. But, if you've gotten to this step in the procedure, it's time to replace the Triac. Remember, you need a 4-sector triac.<br />
As these boards age it is easy to pull out the little copper hole liners that connect traces from one side of the board to the other. If you put in new connector pins. Be sure and check continuity from the pin onto the board somewhere. Only takes a couple minutes and can save you a lot of work.<br />
<br />
'''GI Lamps Not Dimming'''<br />
<br />
The primary cause of this problem is broken traces at BR2, caused when BR2 was replaced, These traces feed D3 and D38. Both of these traces must be intact <br />
for dimming to work.<br />
<br />
====Controlled Lamp Problems====<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Under construction...</font><br><br />
<br />
===Switch problems===<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>"Switch Matrix" switches section under construction...</font><br><br />
Switches in WPC games fall into two categories, those within the switch matrix, and "direct" switches.<br />
<br />
'''<u>Direct switch operation</u>'''<br />
<br />
Direct switches include:<br />
*Left coin chute<br />
*Center coin chute<br />
*Right coin chute<br />
*4th coin chute<br />
*Service Credits/Escape (referred to as "escape" here)<br />
*Volume down/Down<br />
*Volume up/Up<br />
*Begin Test/Enter<br />
<br />
Direct switches are not part of the WPC switch matrix. All of the direct switches are located on the coin door, and connect to the MPU at J205. The MPU senses these switches individually, and apart from the switch matrix. Therefore, isolation diodes are not used with direct switches.<br />
<br />
Normally, with the switch open, the LM339s at U16 and U17 compare 12V (supplied on the MPU to both the switch and to the LM339) with 5V (as a comparison level) and signals the 74LS240 at U15 that the switch is open. When the switch closes, it shorts the 12V to ground and the comparison at the LM339 then indicates to U15 that the switch is closed. U15 is "clocked" by pin 48 of the ASIC (SW DIR), causing U15 to present its data to the data bus. The 6809/ASIC "debounces" the switch. Debouncing is not a factor to be considered here and doesn't factor in switch testing at all.<br />
<br />
'''Direct Switch Pinout at J205 for both WPC and WPC-S MPUs'''<br><br />
Notes:<br><br />
:J205, pin 5 is the "key" pin.<br />
:J205, pin 10 provides ground (black wire)<br />
:J205, pin 11 is unused<br />
:J205, pin 12 is an "enable" back to the coin door interface board<br><br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Signal<br />
!Wire color at J205<br />
!MPU pin<br />
!Diode<br />
!LM339 & input pin<br />
!U15 input pin<br />
|-<br />
|<b>Left chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Brown>brown</font></b></center> || <center>J205-1</center> || <center>D15</center> || <center>U17-5</center> || <center>11</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Center chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Red>red</font></b></center> || <center>J205-2</center> || <center>D16</center> || <center>U17-7</center> || <center>13</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Right chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Black>black</font></b></center> || <center>J205-3</center> || <center>D17</center> || <center>U17-11</center> || <center>15</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>4th chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Yellow>yellow</font></b></center> || <center>J205-4</center> || <center>D18</center> || <center>U17-9</center> || <center>17</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Escape</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Green>green</font></b></center> || <center>J205-6</center> || <center>D11</center> || <center>U16-9</center> || <center>2</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Down</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Blue>blue</font></b></center> || <center>J205-7</center> || <center>D12</center> || <center>U16-11</center> || <center>4</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Up</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Purple>violet</font></b></center> || <center>J205-8</center> || <center>D13</center> || <center>U16-7</center> || <center>6</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Enter</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Gray>gray</font></b></center> || <center>J205-9</center> || <center>D14</center> || <center>U16-5</center> || <center>8</center><br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''<u>Debugging direct switch problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
To discover the problem as quickly as possible, we'll divide the problem into smaller pieces. We must first determine if the problem is on the MPU board or the problem lies with the wiring to the coin door and/or the specific switch. If your MPU has obvious alkaline damage at U15, U16, or U17, address the alkaline damage first.<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Begin testing with the game OFF.</font><br />
<br />
'''<u>Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/switch</u><br>'''<br />
#Remove connector J205 from the MPU.<br />
#Build a jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends.<br />
#Clip one end of the jumper wire to the game's ground braid in the game head.<br />
#Turn the game on<br />
#Carefully touch the other end of your jumper wire to the appropriate pin on J205 as shown in the table.<br />
#If the MPU carries out the function of the switch, the problem is not on the MPU.<br />
#If the MPU does nothing, the problem is on the MPU.<br />
#Skip to the appropriate section below.<br />
<br />
'''<u>Identifying problems NOT on the MPU</u><br>'''<br />
<br />
'''Test the direct switch's path to ground<br>'''<br />
#Your game should still be turned off.<br />
#DMM set to continuity.<br />
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to any game ground, like the lockdown bar or ground braid.<br />
#Red lead on the solder joint between the switch and the black wire that provides ground. <br />
#You should hear "tone". If not, further diagnose the break in the black wire between the solder joint and game ground.<br />
<br />
'''Test the direct switch itself<br>'''<br />
#Black lead of your DMM still clipped to game ground.<br />
#Red lead on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) of the switch under test.<br />
#Depress the switch. You should hear "tone". If not, the switch is defective and not "making". See the section below that describes cleaning these switches.<br />
<br />
'''Test the signal path to the MPU<br>'''<br />
#Clip the black lead of your DMM on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.<br />
#Remove the connector plug at J205 from the MPU.<br />
#Red lead on the appropriate pin of J205 for the switch under test. See the table above. It's easiest to access the pin through the rectangular hole in the back of the connector where the pin's "tang" snaps in.<br />
#You should hear "tone". If not, there is a discontinuity in the wire between the direct switch and J205. Note that the coin door interface board is between these two points. The coin door interface board is a "pass-through" for these signals and rarely causes a problem. Still, reseating connectors J1, J3, and J4 on the coin door interface board might uncover the problem. More likely, the wire between J1 on the coin door interface board and J205 has a break in it.<br />
<br />
'''<u>Identifying problems on the MPU</u><br>'''<br />
<br />
'''Test the signal path through J205 and onto the MPU<br>'''<br />
J205 is right below the battery holder and as such, sometimes receives the unwanted gift of dripping alkaline from depleted batteries. Carefully examine both the male and female connections of J205 for alkaline "greenies". Assuming no alkaline damage...<br><br />
#Begin with your game turned off.<br />
#Connect J205 to the MPU.<br />
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.<br />
#Red lead on the banded end of the appropriate diode shown in the table above.<br />
#You should hear "tone". If not, there is either a problem with the physical connection at J205 or the alkaline "greenies" are sneakier than you gave them credit for. Re-examine J205 and the surrounding area of the board for alkaline damage. The traces from the switch connectors are very small and it takes very little alkaline damage to compromise them. You may also re-pin the female side of J205.<br />
<br />
At this point, a logic probe would be the best tool to use. You can pick up 5V power for your probe across the electrolytic cap at C31 which is immediately to the right of the battery holder. Black lead on the negative side (top of the cap). Red lead on positive side (bottom). The board is silkscreened with polarity markings. Set the logic probe to "CMOS" test mode, as you will be measuring 12VDC.<br />
<br />
If you don't already have a logic probe, you should. Although for this test, you can still get by with your trusty DMM. Clip the black lead of your DMM to game ground. The ground braid in the head is a good place to pickup ground at this point. Set your DMM to DC volts.<br />
<br />
'''Test the LM339 inputs<br>'''<br />
#Start with the game turned off.<br />
#Again, set your logic probe to "CMOS"<br />
#Clip one end of your jumper wire to the appopriate pin of J205. Leave the other end of your jumper wire unconnected, but handy as you'll touch it to ground later.<br />
#<font color=Red>You now need to turn the game ON.</font><br />
#Measure the signal at the appropriate LM339's appropriate pin shown in the table above. Either place your logic probe on the pin or place the Red lead of your DMM on the pin. The signal should measure high (or about 12VDC with your DMM).<br />
#Now, with your other hand, touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.<br />
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high, then the pin isn't being grounded correctly. Candidates are a failed diode/resistor in the circuit, the board trace between the diode and the LM339 is compromised, or a badly failed LM339.<br />
<br />
'''Test the LM339 outputs/74LS240 (U15) inputs<br>'''<br />
#Set your logic probe back to TTL as you will be measuring 0 - 5V signals<br />
#Measure the signal at the appropriate pin (see table) of U15. The signal should measure high (or about 5VDC with your DMM).<br />
#Touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.<br />
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high with the jumper wire grounded, then either the LM339 outputs have failed, the board trace between the LM339 and U15 is compromised, or the 74LS240 has failed and is corrupting the signal. You can test U15 using the procedure in the "How to..." section of PinWiki, [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing an integrated circuit| here]].<br />
<br />
The output side of U15 can't be tested effectively since that is the processor/ASIC data bus and should be constantly and irregularly changing states.<br />
<br />
If you've followed this process step-by-step, you should have identified the problem with the signal and will be able to effectively perform the appropriate repair.<br />
<br />
'''Cleaning direct switches'''<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Coming soon...will describe disassembly and cleaning...</font><br />
Sometimes, several rigorous open/close cycles will "clean" corrosion from the switch.<br />
<br />
'''<u>WPC Switch Matrix problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Coming soon...</font><br />
<br />
===Display problems===<br />
===Sound problems===<br />
===Flipper problems===</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC&diff=3081Williams WPC2011-05-25T04:34:30Z<p>Mr: /* General Illumination Problems */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This guide covers Williams WPC, WPC-S, and WPC-95 games.<br />
<br />
==Game List==<br />
<br />
==='''WPC (Alphanumeric)'''===<br />
*[[Funhouse]]<br />
*[[Harley-Davidson]]<br />
*[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot]]<br />
<br />
==='''WPC (Dot Matrix)'''===<br />
*[[Gilligan's Island]]<br />
*[[Terminator 2: Judgement Day]]<br />
*[[Hurricane]]<br />
*[[Party Zone]]<br />
<br />
===WPC Fliptronics I & II===<br />
*[[The Addams Family]] / Addams Family Gold<br />
*[[The Getaway: High Speed II]]<br />
*[[Black Rose]]<br />
*[[Fish Tales]]<br />
*[[Doctor Who]]<br />
*[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]<br />
*[[White Water]]<br />
*[[Bram Stoker's Dracula]]<br />
*[[Twilight Zone]]<br />
<br />
==='''WPC DCS Sound'''===<br />
*[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]<br />
*[[Judge Dredd]]<br />
*[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]<br />
*[[Popeye Saves The Earth]]<br />
*[[Demolition Man]]<br />
<br />
==='''WPC-S CPU'''===<br />
*[[World Cup Soccer]]<br />
*[[The Flintstones]]<br />
*[[Corvette]]<br />
*[[Red & Ted Road Show]]<br />
*[[The Shadow]]<br />
*[[Dirty Harry]]<br />
*[[Theatre of Magic]]<br />
*[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports]]<br />
*[[Indianapolis 500]]<br />
*[[Johnny Mnemonic]]<br />
*[[Jack*Bot]]<br />
*[[WHO Dunnit]]<br />
<br />
==='''WPC-95 CPU'''===<br />
*[[Congo]]<br />
*[[Attack from Mars]]<br />
*[[Safecracker]]<br />
*[[Tales of the Arabian Nights]]<br />
*[[Scared Stiff]]<br />
*[[Junk Yard]]<br />
*[[NBA Fastbreak]]<br />
*[[Medieval Madness]]<br />
*[[Cirqus Voltaire]]<br />
*[[No Good Gofers]]<br />
*[[The Championship Pub]]<br />
*[[Monster Bash]]<br />
*[[Cactus Canyon]]<br />
<br />
==Technical Info==<br />
Motorola 68B09E, running at 2Mhz. It is an 8-bit/16-bit CPU with a 64KB address space. Bank switching is required to address more than 64KB. The game ROM size varies from 128KB to 1MB, depending on the game. 8KB of battery backed RAM is available.<br />
<br />
For more information, see [http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc/manual/The-WPC-Hardware.html#The-WPC-Hardware The FreeWPC Manual]<br />
===[[WPC Transformers|'''The WPC Transformer''']]===<br />
===[[The WPC System Boardset and History]]===<br />
----<br />
===WPC CPU Generations===<br />
====[[WPC CPU]]====<br />
====[[WPC-S CPU]]====<br />
====[[WPC-95 CPU]]====<br />
----<br />
===WPC Power/Driver Board Generations===<br />
====[[WPC-089 Power/Driver Board]]====<br />
====WPC-95 Power/Driver Board====<br />
----<br />
===[[WPC Dot Matrix Controller board]]===<br />
<br />
<br />
===WPC Sound Boards===<br />
====[[WPC pre-DCS Sound Board]]====<br />
====[[WPC DCS Sound Board]]====<br />
====[[WPC-95 AV Board]]====<br />
----<br />
===WPC Fliptronics Boards===<br />
====[[WPC Fliptronics I board]]====<br />
====[[WPC Fliptronics II board]]====<br />
----<br />
===Miscellaneous WPC Boards===<br />
Note: Some of these might best be located in the "Game Specific Problems & Fixes" section. Perhaps the pervasiveness of their use within the WPC game list would drive the decision.<br />
====[[WPC 7 Opto Board]]====<br />
====[[WPC 10 Opto Board]]====<br />
====[[Auxiliary 8-Driver Board]]====<br />
as used in TZ, DM, IJ, etc...<br />
====[[Trough opto boards]]====<br />
====[[WH2O & CFTBL chaser lamp boards]]====<br />
====[[HSII & CFTBL triac board]]====<br />
====Coin Door Interface Board==== <br />
<br />
If your coin door interface board gets dusty from flipper parts wearing, clean it. That dust conducts electricity and will give you some interesting coinage issues.<br />
<br />
==Problems and Solutions==<br />
===MPU boot issues===<br />
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====<br />
Relocating the 3xAA battery pack from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of MPU boards. Simply removing the batteries is not an option with WPC games as you will always receive a "Factory Settings Restored" message when the game boots.<br />
<br />
Options:<br />
#Remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won't leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board. Replace the batteries annually, dating them with a Sharpie! as you do.<br />
#Replace the 6264 static RAM with a SIMTEK non-volatile RAM (STK12C68). These SIMTEK RAM chips are increasingly hard to find but offer a nice alternative to changing batteries annually. This method requires desoldering/soldering on the MPU and also has the down-side of not maintaining the Real Time Clock (meaningless in some games...nice in games like Twilight Zone that moves the playfield "toy" clock to the current time during attract mode, and Who?Dunnit which has a "Midnight Madness" feature.<br />
<br />
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====<br />
===Game resets===<br />
====[[A disciplined process to eliminate WPC game resets]]====<br />
===Check fuses F114 and F115 message===<br />
This message is sometimes displayed when the game boots and a game cannot be started. Most of the time, F114/F115 will be found to be just fine. <br />
<br />
The game issues this message because it cannot read the switch matrix normally. The crafty designers at Williams inserted an “always closed“ switch into the matrix as switch 24. Switch 24 isn’t a switch at all, but instead provides the game software with a “known closed” switch matrix return. Switch 24 is actually a diode across column 2, row 4 of the switch matrix and is located on the coin door interface board.<br />
<br />
Since the WPC switch matrix circuitry on the MPU uses 12V to determine switch state, the game assumes that the 12VDC power has been interrupted. F114/F115 fuse the 12V generation circuit; F114 on the AC side of BR1; F115 on the DC side of BR1. Hence, the game assumes that one of these fuses is blown and the message is displayed.<br />
<br />
<u>'''Diagnosing the problem'''</u><br />
<br />
Start by checking DC voltage at TP3. You should see about 12VDC. If not, follow these steps.<br />
<br />
#Actually check fuses F114 and F115 using the procedure [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_fuses| <b>here</b>]]. If a blown fuse is found, replace it. If F114 immediately blows again, then BR1 is probably shorted. Skip to the paragraph below to test the bridge.<br />
#Check LED6. If not lit (indicating the absence of 18V at TP8), then suspect BR1 or the filter caps for BR1, C6 and C7. If BR1 had failed shorted or if C6 or C7 where shorted (rare) then you would expect to see F114 blown. BR1 can be tested using the procedure below.<br />
#Check LED1. If not lit (indicating the absence of “digital” 12V at TP3, then test D1 and D2 (both 1N4004 diodes). If D1/D2 test good, then check continuity from pin 2 of the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2 to J114, pin 1. This verifies the path through F115.<br />
#If this all checks out, yet 12VDC is still not at TP3, then suspect the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2. Q2 is in a TO-220 package (like a TIP-102) and has a small heat sink attached.<br />
<br />
If TP3 does, in fact, have 12VDC present, then we need to dig deeper.<br />
<br />
#First check for 12VDC on the CPU board to ensure that the 12V is getting to the board via the 2 (and possibly 4 if your game has a “Z-Connector”) connectors that carry the 12VDC. An easy place to measure 12VDC on the CPU is at pin 10 of the ULN2803 (U20). Pin 10 is on the bottom row of pins, furthest left. Note that this connection (an also the 12VDC connection to pin 3 of the LM339s) is not shown on the schematic.<br />
#If the CPU is receiving 12VDC, and you still have the “Check fuses F114 and F115” message, then the problem lies within the CPUs switch matrix logic circuitry.<br />
#Prime candidates for CPU switch matrix failure are U20 (a ULN2803), the two LM339s at U18 and U19, the 74LS374 at U14, and the 74LS240 at U13. All of these ICs are in the “corrosion zone” caused by leaky alkaline batteries. If your CPU exhibits the “blue/green fuzzies”, address the alkaline damage first.<br />
#Testing the 74LSXXX ICs is simple using the procedure [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit| <b>here</b>]].<br />
#If coil power, flasher power, or even lamp power was somehow shorted to the switch matrix, there is a near 100% probability that the ULN2803 at U20 has been damaged. There is no good way to test the ULN2803 other than using a logic probe with the game powered on. Both the input side and the output side of the ULN2803 should be toggling between logic 0 and logic 1. If not, socket and replace the ULN2803.<br />
<br />
[[File:Test-br.jpg|160px|thumb|left|Checking an uninstalled bridge rectifier]]<br />
'''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.'''<br />
#Place your DMM into "diode test". <br />
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge.<br />
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.<br />
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes).<br />
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge.<br />
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.<br />
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen.<br />
<br />
Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc).<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Wpc-br.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The heat sink covering BR1 and BR2 on a WPC-board]]<br />
Take special care when replacing a bridge rectifier. It is easy to lift the traces of the plated through holes when removing these. After removing the heat sink, cut the old bridge rectifier off of the board close to the top leaving as much of the lug as possible. Then add a small amount of solder to the connection on the solder side to improve heat transfer. Finally apply the iron to the solder side to heat the joint and remove the remaining lug with small pliers.<br />
<br />
When replacing the new bridge rectifier you should remove the old thermal compound and apply a new thin layer. The old compound can be removed with a little rubbing alcohol. Apply the thermal compound to the top of the bridge rectifiers and reattach the heat sink with the screws. It is much easier to replace the heat sink before resoldering the new bridge rectifier. Make sure that the heatsink is sitting flush with the tops of the bridge rectifiers and that you leave about a 5/8" gap between the bridge rectifier and the board to improve air flow.<br />
<br />
Splitting the heat sink between BR1 and BR2 was at one time thought to improve reliability. This is no longer considered a best practice and is not recommended. <br />
<br />
More info about replacing bridge rectifiers can be found in the section regarding [[A_disciplined_process_to_eliminate_WPC_game_resets#Failed_Bridge_Rectifier| <b>system resets</b>.]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Wps-diodes.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diodes replaced BR1 and BR2 on WPC-95 boards]]<br />
In WPC-95 games, BR1 and BR2 were replaced by a series of diodes. D11-D14 replaced BR1. D7-D10 replaced BR2. These are much less prone to failure. Still, they do fail on occasion. If they fail, it's best to replace all four in the "gang".<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===Voltage Problems - LED2 & LED3===<br />
<br />
LED2 and LED3 on the Power Driver Board are indicators for the line voltage detection circuit. On on-board comparator circuit uses +5V and +18V to check the line voltage. The comparator consists of a resistor voltage divider and an LM339 comparator.<br />
<br />
The following table shows how to interpret the LED states. Note that other problems with the +18V or +5V supply could cause a high or low line voltage indication.<br />
<br />
Line Voltage Indicator Chart<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!LED2<br />
!LED3<br />
!Voltage<br />
|-<br />
|On || Off || OK<br />
|-<br />
|Off || Off || High<br />
|-<br />
|On || On || Low<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Solenoid & Flasher problems===<br />
Before proceeding to diagnose solenoid or flasher problems, see this section: [[General#How are coils driven?| How coils and flashers are turned on]]<br />
===Lamp problems===<br />
<br />
Lamps (or globes for those of you in the UK) fall into two categories. "General Illumination" and "Controlled Lamps". Your game probably has other lamps which are actually "flashers" that require an 89 or 906 bulb. Flashers are covered elsewhere in this Wiki.<br />
<br />
General illumination lamps (GI) provide the ambient lighting for the playfield, backbox, and coin door. These lamps are list most of the time. The only "controllable" aspect of these lamps is their brightness.<br />
<br />
Controlled lamps are under complete CPU control via the lamp matrix. These lamps illuminate the various "features" of the game such as mode inserts, pop bumper lamps, inlane/outlane insert lamps, etc.<br />
<br />
====General Illumination Problems====<br />
<br />
'''Background'''<br />
<br />
The WPC power/driver board provides 5 GI circuits under CPU "brightness control". The WPC-95 power/driver board provides 3 GI circuits under CPU "brightness" control and 2 circuits that are always powered. Those two circuits are always connected to the backbox lamps.<br />
<br />
GI power is provided by the transformer in the form of 6.3VAC at power/driver board connector J115. Although there are five pairs of wires, they are all connected together at the transformer. One side of the AC GI circuit on the power/driver board is fused by F106 through F110 which are all 5ASB fuses. This side runs to the GI lamps, and carries 6.3VAC to the backbox, playfield, and coin door via power driver board connectors J120, J121, and J119 respectively. J119 is a 3-pin header that is always connected to the coin door lamps. J120 and J121 are electrically and physically identical (keyed at pin 4) and therefore can be connected to either the female playfield GI connector or the female backbox GI connector without care. The other side of the GI AC feed is connected to ground. <br />
<br />
<br />
The GI power is controlled by a triac in the return line from the playfield. When these triacs are off, no current passes and the lamps are off. When the triac is turned on, the GI lamps glow. The triac is a slightly special part - it must be a "four sector" triac. This means that it can switch both positive and negative sides of the AC cycle with only a positive signal. <br />
<br />
Each Triac is switched on/off by a 2N5401 transistor which is controlled by U1, a 74LS374, an octal D-Type Flip-Flop with three state outputs (a fancy way of saying that the device is an 8-bit data buffer).<br />
<br />
The CPU can dim the GI by switching on the GI for only parts of the AC waveform. To do this, it uses a zero crossing signal generated from the 6.5VAC that feeds the 5V circuit. <br />
<br />
Wire colors to J115 during the early WPC games were always yellow (AC) and yellow-white (AC return). Pin 1 of J115 provides the "ground reference". Later WPC games used different wire colors at J115 and instead of "looping" power through the connector at J115, connected two wires to the same pin at the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.<br />
<br />
J119 is always keyed at pin2, with a <b>white-<font color=Purple>Violet</font></b> wire at pin 1 and a <b><font color=Purple>Violet</font></b> wire at pin 3<br />
<br />
J120 and J121 are 11 pin connectors. Wire color/positions (when used) are identical for all WPC games and are shown in the table.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!<center>&nbsp;Pin&nbsp;</center><br />
!&nbsp;Wire color at J120/J121&nbsp;<br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>1</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Brown>Brown</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>2</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Orange>Orange</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>3</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Yellow>Yellow</font></b> (yellow)<br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>4</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>Key</b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>5</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Green>Green</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>6</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Purple>Violet</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>7</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Brown>Brown</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>8</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Orange>Orange</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>9</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Yellow>Yellow</font></b> (yellow)<br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>10</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Green>Green</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>11</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Purple>Violet</font></b><br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''Common GI Problem Causes''' (listed by probability/ease of testing and correction)<br />
<br />
Let's start by determining if the problem is "off board", i.e. not on your power/driver board, or "on board". <br />
<br />
#Take note of the wire color of the GI string that is not working. <br />
#Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.<br />
#Turn the game on.<br />
#Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector position with the same wire color as noted earlier. Make sure you make contact with the conductor.<br />
#Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector with the white wire that has the same color "tracer" as the color noted earlier.<br />
#You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.<br />
#If there is voltage at the connector, then the problem is "off board".<br />
#If there is no voltage at the connector, then the problem is "on board".<br />
<br />
'''<u>Off board GI problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
#'''All lamps blown.''' Don't laugh. Just for giggles, put a known working lamp into one of the lamp sockets of the suspected GI string. I've seen it more than once. Usually the result of operators never changing a bulb, or somehow connecting higher voltage to the circuit.<br />
#'''"Open" in GI wiring.''' The GI wires leading from J120/J121 may be cut/broken between the connector and the GI lamp sockets. Remove both of the female connectors at J120/J121. Use your DMM to check continuity between the lamp socket and the appropriate wire/pin at J120/J121.<br />
<br />
'''<u>On board GI problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
#'''Blown fuses.''' This is also the easiest problem to fix. Check each GI fuse following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_fuses| <b>procedure</b>]]. Don't trust your eyes.<br />
#'''Burned connectors.''' <need a picture> Over long periods of time, both the male and female GI connectors at J115, J120, and J121 often burn. This was especially prevalent in early WPC games like Terminator 2. Numerous "hacks" have been employed over the years by well meaning repairmen but the only real way to fix burned connectors is to replace both the male header pins and the female housings/pins. "Trifurcon" crimp-on pins are recommended to provide a better connection at the female connector. <br />
#'''Burned AC power input connector.''' There is also a 9-pin (3x3) connector between the transformer secondary and J115. This connector/pins sometimes burn and may require replacement. Check to ensure that AC power is being delivered to the power/driver board at J115.<br />
##Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.<br />
##Turn the game on.<br />
##Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 3.<br />
##Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 11.<br />
##You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.<br />
##If no voltage is present, examine the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.<br />
#'''Burned traces.''' Usually, this is a secondary problem created after the connectors burn. Visual inspection of the traces might uncover the problem, but "buzzing" them for continuity is the best practice.<br />
#'''Failed 2N5401.''' These don't fail very often, but are easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| <b>procedure</b>]].<br />
#'''Failed resistors.''' Again, these don't fail very often but are easy to test with your DMM. Keep in mind that "in-circuit" measurements may not be reliable.<br />
#'''Failed 74LS374.''' This is rare too but easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit | <b>procedure</b>]]. You can also test the outputs of the LS374 by probing pins 2, 5, 6, 16 and 19 with your logic probe. At full GI brightness, these pins should test as "high".<br />
#'''Failed Triac.''' These rarely fail. But, if you've gotten to this step in the procedure, it's time to replace the Triac.<br />
As these boards age it is easy to lose through board continuity. If you put in new connector pins. Be sure and check continuity from the pin onto the board somewhere. Only takes a couple minutes and can save you a lot of work.<br />
<br />
====Controlled Lamp Problems====<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Under construction...</font><br><br />
<br />
===Switch problems===<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>"Switch Matrix" switches section under construction...</font><br><br />
Switches in WPC games fall into two categories, those within the switch matrix, and "direct" switches.<br />
<br />
'''<u>Direct switch operation</u>'''<br />
<br />
Direct switches include:<br />
*Left coin chute<br />
*Center coin chute<br />
*Right coin chute<br />
*4th coin chute<br />
*Service Credits/Escape (referred to as "escape" here)<br />
*Volume down/Down<br />
*Volume up/Up<br />
*Begin Test/Enter<br />
<br />
Direct switches are not part of the WPC switch matrix. All of the direct switches are located on the coin door, and connect to the MPU at J205. The MPU senses these switches individually, and apart from the switch matrix. Therefore, isolation diodes are not used with direct switches.<br />
<br />
Normally, with the switch open, the LM339s at U16 and U17 compare 12V (supplied on the MPU to both the switch and to the LM339) with 5V (as a comparison level) and signals the 74LS240 at U15 that the switch is open. When the switch closes, it shorts the 12V to ground and the comparison at the LM339 then indicates to U15 that the switch is closed. U15 is "clocked" by pin 48 of the ASIC (SW DIR), causing U15 to present its data to the data bus. The 6809/ASIC "debounces" the switch. Debouncing is not a factor to be considered here and doesn't factor in switch testing at all.<br />
<br />
'''Direct Switch Pinout at J205 for both WPC and WPC-S MPUs'''<br><br />
Notes:<br><br />
:J205, pin 5 is the "key" pin.<br />
:J205, pin 10 provides ground (black wire)<br />
:J205, pin 11 is unused<br />
:J205, pin 12 is an "enable" back to the coin door interface board<br><br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Signal<br />
!Wire color at J205<br />
!MPU pin<br />
!Diode<br />
!LM339 & input pin<br />
!U15 input pin<br />
|-<br />
|<b>Left chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Brown>brown</font></b></center> || <center>J205-1</center> || <center>D15</center> || <center>U17-5</center> || <center>11</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Center chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Red>red</font></b></center> || <center>J205-2</center> || <center>D16</center> || <center>U17-7</center> || <center>13</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Right chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Black>black</font></b></center> || <center>J205-3</center> || <center>D17</center> || <center>U17-11</center> || <center>15</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>4th chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Yellow>yellow</font></b></center> || <center>J205-4</center> || <center>D18</center> || <center>U17-9</center> || <center>17</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Escape</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Green>green</font></b></center> || <center>J205-6</center> || <center>D11</center> || <center>U16-9</center> || <center>2</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Down</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Blue>blue</font></b></center> || <center>J205-7</center> || <center>D12</center> || <center>U16-11</center> || <center>4</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Up</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Purple>violet</font></b></center> || <center>J205-8</center> || <center>D13</center> || <center>U16-7</center> || <center>6</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Enter</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Gray>gray</font></b></center> || <center>J205-9</center> || <center>D14</center> || <center>U16-5</center> || <center>8</center><br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''<u>Debugging direct switch problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
To discover the problem as quickly as possible, we'll divide the problem into smaller pieces. We must first determine if the problem is on the MPU board or the problem lies with the wiring to the coin door and/or the specific switch. If your MPU has obvious alkaline damage at U15, U16, or U17, address the alkaline damage first.<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Begin testing with the game OFF.</font><br />
<br />
'''<u>Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/switch</u><br>'''<br />
#Remove connector J205 from the MPU.<br />
#Build a jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends.<br />
#Clip one end of the jumper wire to the game's ground braid in the game head.<br />
#Turn the game on<br />
#Carefully touch the other end of your jumper wire to the appropriate pin on J205 as shown in the table.<br />
#If the MPU carries out the function of the switch, the problem is not on the MPU.<br />
#If the MPU does nothing, the problem is on the MPU.<br />
#Skip to the appropriate section below.<br />
<br />
'''<u>Identifying problems NOT on the MPU</u><br>'''<br />
<br />
'''Test the direct switch's path to ground<br>'''<br />
#Your game should still be turned off.<br />
#DMM set to continuity.<br />
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to any game ground, like the lockdown bar or ground braid.<br />
#Red lead on the solder joint between the switch and the black wire that provides ground. <br />
#You should hear "tone". If not, further diagnose the break in the black wire between the solder joint and game ground.<br />
<br />
'''Test the direct switch itself<br>'''<br />
#Black lead of your DMM still clipped to game ground.<br />
#Red lead on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) of the switch under test.<br />
#Depress the switch. You should hear "tone". If not, the switch is defective and not "making". See the section below that describes cleaning these switches.<br />
<br />
'''Test the signal path to the MPU<br>'''<br />
#Clip the black lead of your DMM on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.<br />
#Remove the connector plug at J205 from the MPU.<br />
#Red lead on the appropriate pin of J205 for the switch under test. See the table above. It's easiest to access the pin through the rectangular hole in the back of the connector where the pin's "tang" snaps in.<br />
#You should hear "tone". If not, there is a discontinuity in the wire between the direct switch and J205. Note that the coin door interface board is between these two points. The coin door interface board is a "pass-through" for these signals and rarely causes a problem. Still, reseating connectors J1, J3, and J4 on the coin door interface board might uncover the problem. More likely, the wire between J1 on the coin door interface board and J205 has a break in it.<br />
<br />
'''<u>Identifying problems on the MPU</u><br>'''<br />
<br />
'''Test the signal path through J205 and onto the MPU<br>'''<br />
J205 is right below the battery holder and as such, sometimes receives the unwanted gift of dripping alkaline from depleted batteries. Carefully examine both the male and female connections of J205 for alkaline "greenies". Assuming no alkaline damage...<br><br />
#Begin with your game turned off.<br />
#Connect J205 to the MPU.<br />
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.<br />
#Red lead on the banded end of the appropriate diode shown in the table above.<br />
#You should hear "tone". If not, there is either a problem with the physical connection at J205 or the alkaline "greenies" are sneakier than you gave them credit for. Re-examine J205 and the surrounding area of the board for alkaline damage. The traces from the switch connectors are very small and it takes very little alkaline damage to compromise them. You may also re-pin the female side of J205.<br />
<br />
At this point, a logic probe would be the best tool to use. You can pick up 5V power for your probe across the electrolytic cap at C31 which is immediately to the right of the battery holder. Black lead on the negative side (top of the cap). Red lead on positive side (bottom). The board is silkscreened with polarity markings. Set the logic probe to "CMOS" test mode, as you will be measuring 12VDC.<br />
<br />
If you don't already have a logic probe, you should. Although for this test, you can still get by with your trusty DMM. Clip the black lead of your DMM to game ground. The ground braid in the head is a good place to pickup ground at this point. Set your DMM to DC volts.<br />
<br />
'''Test the LM339 inputs<br>'''<br />
#Start with the game turned off.<br />
#Again, set your logic probe to "CMOS"<br />
#Clip one end of your jumper wire to the appopriate pin of J205. Leave the other end of your jumper wire unconnected, but handy as you'll touch it to ground later.<br />
#<font color=Red>You now need to turn the game ON.</font><br />
#Measure the signal at the appropriate LM339's appropriate pin shown in the table above. Either place your logic probe on the pin or place the Red lead of your DMM on the pin. The signal should measure high (or about 12VDC with your DMM).<br />
#Now, with your other hand, touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.<br />
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high, then the pin isn't being grounded correctly. Candidates are a failed diode/resistor in the circuit, the board trace between the diode and the LM339 is compromised, or a badly failed LM339.<br />
<br />
'''Test the LM339 outputs/74LS240 (U15) inputs<br>'''<br />
#Set your logic probe back to TTL as you will be measuring 0 - 5V signals<br />
#Measure the signal at the appropriate pin (see table) of U15. The signal should measure high (or about 5VDC with your DMM).<br />
#Touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.<br />
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high with the jumper wire grounded, then either the LM339 outputs have failed, the board trace between the LM339 and U15 is compromised, or the 74LS240 has failed and is corrupting the signal. You can test U15 using the procedure in the "How to..." section of PinWiki, [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing an integrated circuit| here]].<br />
<br />
The output side of U15 can't be tested effectively since that is the processor/ASIC data bus and should be constantly and irregularly changing states.<br />
<br />
If you've followed this process step-by-step, you should have identified the problem with the signal and will be able to effectively perform the appropriate repair.<br />
<br />
'''Cleaning direct switches'''<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Coming soon...will describe disassembly and cleaning...</font><br />
Sometimes, several rigorous open/close cycles will "clean" corrosion from the switch.<br />
<br />
'''<u>WPC Switch Matrix problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Coming soon...</font><br />
<br />
===Display problems===<br />
===Sound problems===<br />
===Flipper problems===</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Earthshaker&diff=3040Earthshaker2011-05-23T02:21:31Z<p>Mr: /* Game Information */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
==Game Information==<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced<br />
|-<br />
|Williams || System 11B || 1989 || 568|| xxxxxx<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=753 IPDB Link (including software and schematics)]<br />
<br />
[[Earthshaker Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]<br />
<br />
[[Earthshaker Shop Guide]]<br />
<br />
==System 11 Specific Issues==<br />
See [[System 11 Specific Issues]]<br />
<br />
== Game-Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Earthshaker Fault Mechanism]]<br />
<br />
A nifty - and long-unavailable - cam is subject to wear. The important parts are all at the back of the playfield, and imporssible to access easily without pulling the playfield.<br />
<br />
<br />
Return to Williams System 11 main page.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Medieval_Madness&diff=3039Medieval Madness2011-05-23T02:18:02Z<p>Mr: /* WPC Specific Issues */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced<br />
|-<br />
| Williams || WPC-95 || 1997 || 50059 || 4,016<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness Shop Guide]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== WPC Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
See [[WPC Specific Issues]].<br />
<br />
== Game-Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness Castle]]<br />
<br />
Worn parts make the castle towers lean. Spares are hard to come by, so fixing this one often requires some DIY effort.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
:Draw Bridge is acting up - <br>Check the pivot points, they get peened by ball hits and can distort and bind. A bit of work to take apart, they can be flattened or filed to make a smooth pivot point again. LTG :)<br />
<br />
:Troll carriages. Gravity can loosen the collar from the cage, and cause binding on the up or down movement. You can re-peen it with a cold chisel. Or braze it. The collar is much thicker than the cage so welding won't work, you'd melt the cage.<br />
<br />
:A common problem is a broken wire on the troll head target. Easiest is to take the whole carriage out of game. Remove the bolt holding it to plunger, unplug the connector. Lift up and wiggle out, lean to one side so long part clears playfield hole. Remove nut on plastic piece and remove. Remove troll target. Cut cable tie. Resolder wire good. Check both wires and diode. Reassemble. Put on new cable tie. Install back into game. LTG :)<br />
<br />
<BR><BR><br />
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Medieval_Madness&diff=3038Medieval Madness2011-05-23T02:17:17Z<p>Mr: /* Game-Specific Issues */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced<br />
|-<br />
| Williams || WPC-95 || 1997 || 50059 || 4,016<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness Shop Guide]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== WPC Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]<br />
<br />
== Game-Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness Castle]]<br />
<br />
Worn parts make the castle towers lean. Spares are hard to come by, so fixing this one often requires some DIY effort.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
:Draw Bridge is acting up - <br>Check the pivot points, they get peened by ball hits and can distort and bind. A bit of work to take apart, they can be flattened or filed to make a smooth pivot point again. LTG :)<br />
<br />
:Troll carriages. Gravity can loosen the collar from the cage, and cause binding on the up or down movement. You can re-peen it with a cold chisel. Or braze it. The collar is much thicker than the cage so welding won't work, you'd melt the cage.<br />
<br />
:A common problem is a broken wire on the troll head target. Easiest is to take the whole carriage out of game. Remove the bolt holding it to plunger, unplug the connector. Lift up and wiggle out, lean to one side so long part clears playfield hole. Remove nut on plastic piece and remove. Remove troll target. Cut cable tie. Resolder wire good. Check both wires and diode. Reassemble. Put on new cable tie. Install back into game. LTG :)<br />
<br />
<BR><BR><br />
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Funhouse&diff=3037Funhouse2011-05-23T02:15:04Z<p>Mr: /* Game-Specific Issues */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced<br />
|-<br />
|Bally || WPC-Alphanumic || 1989 || 50003 || 10,750 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Funhouse Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]<br />
<br />
[[Funhouse Shop Guide]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== WPC Specific Issues ==<br />
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]<br />
<br />
== Game-Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Servicing Funhouse and Roadshow Heads]]<br />
<br />
Full of tricky, but now-available, parts, these heads are straightforward to service. There still seems to be an issue with poorly-made jaw gears that fracture early in service.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Funhouse faces.<br />
<br />
<P><br />
<BR><br />
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Corvette&diff=3036Corvette2011-05-23T02:13:42Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced<br />
|-<br />
|Bally || WPC-Security || 1994 || 50036 || 5,001<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Corvette Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]<br />
<br />
[[Corvette Shop Guide]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== WPC Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]<br />
<br />
== Game-Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Corvette faces.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Corvette Engine]]<br />
<br />
Sophisticated closed-loop controller with several places to go wrong, all buried under a model engine.<br />
<br />
<br />
<BR><BR><br />
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Earthshaker&diff=3035Earthshaker2011-05-23T02:12:37Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
==Game Information==<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced<br />
|-<br />
|Bally || System 11 || 198? || xxxxx|| xxxxxx<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2684 IPDB Link (including software and schematics)]<br />
<br />
[[Earthshaker Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]<br />
<br />
[[Earthshaker Shop Guide]]<br />
<br />
==System 11 Specific Issues==<br />
See [[System 11 Specific Issues]]<br />
<br />
== Game-Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Earthshaker Fault Mechanism]]<br />
<br />
A nifty - and long-unavailable - cam is subject to wear. The important parts are all at the back of the playfield, and imporssible to access easily without pulling the playfield.<br />
<br />
<br />
Return to Williams System 11 main page.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Earthshaker&diff=3034Earthshaker2011-05-23T02:10:09Z<p>Mr: Created page with "Contents [hide] 1 Game Information 2 System 11 Specific Issues 3 Game-Specific Issues [edit]Game Information Manufacturer System Year Model Produced Bally System 11 198x ..."</p>
<hr />
<div>Contents [hide]<br />
1 Game Information<br />
2 System 11 Specific Issues<br />
3 Game-Specific Issues<br />
<br />
[edit]Game Information<br />
<br />
Manufacturer System Year Model Produced<br />
Bally System 11 198x 1111 1111<br />
<br />
IPDB Link (including software and schematics)<br />
<br />
Earthshaker Playing Tips and Rule Sheet<br />
<br />
Earthshaker Shop Guide<br />
<br />
[edit]System 11 Specific Issues<br />
<br />
See System 11 Specific Issues<br />
[edit] Game-Specific Issues<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Earthshaker Fault Mechanism]]<br />
<br />
A nifty - and long-unavailable - cam is subject to wear. The important parts are all at the back of the playfield, and imporssible to access easily without pulling the playfield.<br />
<br />
Return to Williams System 11 main page.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Judge_Dredd&diff=3033Judge Dredd2011-05-23T01:51:57Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced<br />
|-<br />
|Bally || WPC-DCS Sound || 1993 || 20020 || 6,990<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd Shop Guide]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== WPC Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Game-Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Judge Dredd faces.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd Crane and Planet]]<br />
<br />
An elegant locking ring requires decent operation of two separate, motorized systems. Not only do they wear, the crane can get tied up between the cabinet and playfield and get badly bent.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Misplaced Connector in Head'''<br />
<br />
Judge Dredd has a single-pin connector used as a crimp to join two lamp matrix wires in the head. . The connector sits near the lamp matrix headers on the WPC power-driver board. It should be disconnected, but occasionally it gets put onto a spare pin. This will cause problems with the lamp matrix, specifically with the start and supergame buttons.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<BR><BR><br />
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Judge_Dredd&diff=3032Judge Dredd2011-05-23T01:42:40Z<p>Mr: /* Game-Specific Issues */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced<br />
|-<br />
|Bally || WPC-DCS Sound || 1993 || 20020 || 6,990<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd Shop Guide]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== WPC Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Game-Specific Issues ==<br />
<br />
Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Judge Dredd faces.<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd Crane and Planet]]<br />
<br />
An elegant locking ring requires decent operation of two separate, motorized systems. Not only do they wear, the crane can get tied up between the cabinet and playfield and get badly bent.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<BR><BR><br />
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Top_Machine-Specific_Problems&diff=3031Top Machine-Specific Problems2011-05-23T01:41:09Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>Solid-state pinball machines ushered in an era of unique playfield mechanisms. Some of these mechanisms are tricky to make work. And some are difficult to access. Here's our rogue's gallery of the toughest mechs to service. These are all tough enough to get their own pages, and they also link from their respective machines.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Earthshaker Fault Mechanism]]<br />
<br />
A nifty - and long-unavailable - cam is subject to wear. The important parts are all at the back of the playfield, and imporssible to access easily without pulling the playfield.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Twilight Zone Clock]]<br />
<br />
Overheating electronics and borderline design practices, coupled with big wiring and a tendency to work for 30 - 45 mins without trouble.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Corvette Engine]]<br />
<br />
Sophisticated closed-loop controller with several places to go wrong, all buried under a model engine.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd Crane and Planet]]<br />
<br />
An elegant locking ring requires decent operation of two separate, motorized systems. Not only do they wear, the crane can get tied up between the cabinet and playfield and get badly bent.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Other Tricky Mechanisms ==<br />
Easier than the first set, but still a little tricky in their own right because of complexity or unavailable parts.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Funhouse and Roadshow Heads]]<br />
<br />
Full of tricky, but now-available, parts, these heads are straightforward to service. There still seems to be an issue with poorly-made jaw gears that fracture early in service.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness Castle]]<br />
<br />
Worn parts make the castle towers lean. Spares are hard to come by, so fixing this one often requires some DIY effort.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Top_Machine-Specific_Problems&diff=3030Top Machine-Specific Problems2011-05-23T01:40:02Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>Solid-state pinball machines ushered in an era of unique playfield mechanisms. Some of these mechanisms are tricky to make work. And some are difficult to access. Here's our rogue's gallery of the toughest mechs to service. These are all tough enough to get their own pages, and they also link from their respective machines.<br />
<br />
[[Earthshaker Fault Mechanism]]<br />
<br />
A nifty - and long-unavailable - cam is subject to wear. The important parts are all at the back of the playfield, and imporssible to access easily without pulling the playfield.<br />
<br />
[[Twilight Zone Clock]]<br />
<br />
Overheating electronics and borderline design practices, coupled with big wiring and a tendency to work for 30 - 45 mins without trouble. <br />
<br />
[[Corvette Engine]]<br />
<br />
Sophisticated closed-loop controller with several places to go wrong, all buried under a model engine.<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd Crane and Planet]]<br />
<br />
An elegant locking ring requires decent operation of two separate, motorized systems. Not only do they wear, the crane can get tied up between the cabinet and playfield and get badly bent.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Other Tricky Mechanisms ==<br />
Easier than the first set, but still a little tricky in their own right because of complexity or unavailable parts.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Funhouse and Roadshow Heads]]<br />
<br />
Full of tricky, but now-available, parts, these heads are straightforward to service. There still seems to be an issue with poorly-made jaw gears that fracture early in service.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness Castle]]<br />
<br />
Worn parts make the castle towers lean. Spares are hard to come by, so fixing this one often requires some DIY effort.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Top_Machine-Specific_Problems&diff=3029Top Machine-Specific Problems2011-05-23T01:39:17Z<p>Mr: Created page with "Solid-state pinball machines ushered in an era of unique playfield mechanisms. Some of these mechanisms are tricky to make work. And some are difficult to access. Here's our rogu..."</p>
<hr />
<div>Solid-state pinball machines ushered in an era of unique playfield mechanisms. Some of these mechanisms are tricky to make work. And some are difficult to access. Here's our rogue's gallery of the toughest mechs to service. These are all tough enough to get their own pages, and they also link from their respective machines.<br />
<br />
[[Earthshaker Fault Mechanism]]<br />
A nifty - and long-unavailable - cam is subject to wear. The important parts are all at the back of the playfield, and imporssible to access easily without pulling the playfield.<br />
<br />
[[Twilight Zone Clock]]<br />
Overheating electronics and borderline design practices, coupled with big wiring and a tendency to work for 30 - 45 mins without trouble. <br />
<br />
[[Corvette Engine]]<br />
Sophisticated closed-loop controller with several places to go wrong, all buried under a model engine.<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd Crane and Planet]]<br />
An elegant locking ring requires decent operation of two separate, motorized systems. Not only do they wear, the crane can get tied up between the cabinet and playfield and get badly bent.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Other Tricky Mechanisms ==<br />
Easier than the first set, but still a little tricky in their own right because of complexity or unavailable parts.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Funhouse and Roadshow Heads]]<br />
Full of tricky, but now-available, parts, these heads are straightforward to service. There still seems to be an issue with poorly-made jaw gears that fracture early in service.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness Castle]]<br />
Worn parts make the castle towers lean. Spares are hard to come by, so fixing this one often requires some DIY effort.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fixing_and_Tuning_WPC_Flippers&diff=3011Fixing and Tuning WPC Flippers2011-05-22T17:19:25Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
Fixing up the flippers is an important part of making any game play well. If the flippers feel a bit lifeless, it is time to tune them up.<br />
<br />
The most common problem is wear on the flipper link. You can test this by moving the link under the playfield, and looking for play before the flipper arm moves. Replacing the link is all that most tuneups need. <br />
<br />
<br />
One of the most useful tools for working on flippers is a 3/8" Gearwrench. This wrench has a ratcheting head, which makes it much easier to crank down the flipper bat clamp. You will also need a Philips head screwdriver, a XXX hex wrench, and a small adjustable wrench.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<br />
Remove the Flippers'''<br />
<br />
Loosen the flipper clamp nut with your 3/8" wrench. If you are lucky, you will have a locking head on the other end of the shaft. If not, you will need an Allen key to stop it turning. Once the flipper is loose, you can pull it out from the top of the playfield.<br />
<br />
Now, loosen and remove the sockect head screws at the rear of the coil. The stop will come off, and you will be able to slide the coil off of the mechanism. If the coil does not slide easily, it has distorted and needs to be replaced. <br />
<br />
Next, remove the two screws holding in the EOS switch. The mechanism is now mostly disconnected from the game.<br />
<br />
Now you can remove the eight screws that hold the flipper plate to the playfield. The plate will come away.<br />
<br />
Inspect and replace if necessary the nylon flipper bushing. The bushing is held in place by three screws that screw into the plate, and locknuts that screw to the protruding threads. <br />
<br />
Replace the coil stop, plunger, flipper link, and flipper clamp as necessary. <br />
<br />
If the EOS switch (stll hanging inside the game) looks bad, replace that too.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== What Goes Wrong? ==<br />
Modern solid state flippers should feel a little loose and very fast, sending the ball around the playfield at speed and allowing you to trap and hold the ball. If the flippers are sluggish, the game may be off level.<br />
<br />
'''Plunger Manufacturing Problems'''<br />
<br />
Roll Pins Fall Out<br />
At time of writing (May 2011) there are a bunch of new plungers in the supply chain that have loose roll pins. These fall out after some moderate number of games. A dab of superglue might be good insurance. <br />
<br />
<br />
Plungers are too long</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_Pinball_Machine_Worth%3F&diff=2967What is a Pinball Machine Worth?2011-05-21T21:41:49Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
==Prices==<br />
The value of a pinball machine is a highly subjective topic. A totally restored Medieval Madness might sell to a serious collector for well in excess of $10,000. A pinball dealer might offer $5000 for the same machine a week later. A tire-kicker might offer $3000 because the machine is "not original" and so on.<br />
<br />
Pinball price is dependent on a variety of factors, such as desirability, availability, location and condition. Guides are available that track the price on an annual basis and sites like [http://www.pinpedia.com/prices Pinpedia] list past auction prices. Unfortunately 'shilling' and other nefarious practices can happen on online auction sites, so take the results with a pinch of salt. Just because a machine has a 'Buy it now' for $3k doesn't mean it will sell for $3k.<br />
<br />
A dirty machine, without serious damage, can take 40 hours to clean up and $400 in plastics, rubbers, lamps and materials. Add another $200 for legs, door and trim. Playfield swaps add another 40 hours and $600 - $900 for the playfield. And cabinet decals are another 20 hours plus $300 for the decals.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, too often it seems people will 'discover' an old beat up machine in the back of their garage and assume as they just saw an Addams Family on eBay with a 'Buy it now' of $6k, then their pinball machine is worth at least at much. It can be hard trying to explain to people like this the reality of the situation.<br />
<br />
Rarity does not necessarily mean a higher price. Pinball machines were built to be put on location and make money. If a game was popular with the public, they put more money in them, meaning the operators bought more machines. If a table wasn't popular, not many were bought by the operators and thus not many were made. <br />
<br />
This is self evident with 'Addams Family', a well regarded table and the highest production run of the modern pinball era. This machine can still command a high price even though there were 21,000 of them, whereas a similar machine of the same era like Hurricane with only a few thousand made can be found quite cheaply in comparison.<br />
<br />
There are exceptions to this rule, including prototype machines and limited runs like Big Bang Bar and LOTR:Limited Edition (Gold Trim)<br />
<br />
Broadly speaking, pinball machines price out into several groups. Each group has a high and low section. This list is only an example, as mentioned above there are many factors that can affect the price.<br />
<br />
The high dollar machines tend to be modern solid-state machines with DMD displays. These machines have very broad appeal. Also, their parts are worth almost $1000 (electronics + display + transformer + mechanisms), which sets a floor for the value. Older machines appeal to a narrower audience, and so the price tends to be lower. However, there are still high dollar EM machines.<br />
<br />
===Exceptions===<br />
Pinball machines that can exceed $10,000.<br />
<br />
[[Big Bang Bar]]<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness]] (premium restoration)<br />
<br />
[[Cactus Canyon]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===The "A" List===<br />
$4000 and up<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness]]<br />
<br />
[[Monster Bash]]<br />
<br />
Black [[Spider-Man]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===The "B" List===<br />
$3000 - $4000<br />
<br />
[[Attack from Mars]]<br />
<br />
[[Circus Voltaire]]<br />
<br />
[[Safecracker]]<br />
<br />
[[Lord of the Rings]]<br />
<br />
[[Spider-Man]]<br />
<br />
[[Theatre of Magic]]<br />
<br />
[[The Simpsons' Pinball Party]]<br />
<br />
[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]<br />
<br />
[[Twilight Zone]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===The "C" List===<br />
$2000 - $3000<br />
<br />
[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]<br />
<br />
[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]<br />
<br />
[[Whitewater]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===The "D" List===<br />
Under $2,000 <br />
<br />
[[Demolition Man]]<br />
<br />
[[Johnny Mnemonic]]<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Everything Else ==<br />
Older solid state machines and EM machines can be found for a few hundred dollars and up, in a wide variety of conditions. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Resale value==<br />
In general, if the machine is well looked after you tend not to lose money when the time comes to sell it on. They can take a while to sell, depending on what price you set and current market conditions.<br />
<br />
==Aftermarket Modifications==<br />
Some people prefer completely original machines, while others like to fit various modifications to the table. These can vastly affect the price depending on which mods have been fitted, some people pay more for original unmolested tables, whereas others will pay extra for a table that has been fitted with after market modifications.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:8_driver_board.JPG&diff=2910File:8 driver board.JPG2011-05-21T07:48:43Z<p>Mr: The WPC Auxiliary 8 Driver board, used for extra outputs on some WPC games. It sits in teh top right of the backbox.</p>
<hr />
<div>The WPC Auxiliary 8 Driver board, used for extra outputs on some WPC games. It sits in teh top right of the backbox.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC&diff=2902Williams WPC2011-05-21T06:17:24Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
==Introduction==<br />
This guide covers Williams WPC, WPC-S, and WPC-95 games.<br />
<br />
==Game List==<br />
<br />
==='''WPC (Alphanumeric)'''===<br />
*[[Funhouse]]<br />
*[[Harley-Davidson]]<br />
*[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot]]<br />
<br />
==='''WPC (Dot Matrix)'''===<br />
*[[Gilligan's Island]]<br />
*[[Terminator 2: Judgement Day]]<br />
*[[Hurricane]]<br />
*[[Party Zone]]<br />
<br />
===WPC Fliptronics I & II===<br />
*[[The Addams Family]] / Addams Family Gold<br />
*[[The Getaway: High Speed II]]<br />
*[[Black Rose]]<br />
*[[Fish Tales]]<br />
*[[Doctor Who]]<br />
*[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]<br />
*[[White Water]]<br />
*[[Bram Stoker's Dracula]]<br />
*[[Twilight Zone]]<br />
<br />
==='''WPC DCS Sound'''===<br />
*[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]<br />
*[[Judge Dredd]]<br />
*[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]<br />
*[[Popeye Saves The Earth]]<br />
*[[Demolition Man]]<br />
<br />
==='''WPC-S CPU'''===<br />
*[[World Cup Soccer]]<br />
*[[The Flintstones]]<br />
*[[Corvette]]<br />
*[[Red & Ted Road Show]]<br />
*[[The Shadow]]<br />
*[[Dirty Harry]]<br />
*[[Theatre of Magic]]<br />
*[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports]]<br />
*[[Indianapolis 500]]<br />
*[[Johnny Mnemonic]]<br />
*[[Jack*Bot]]<br />
*[[WHO Dunnit]]<br />
<br />
==='''WPC-95 CPU'''===<br />
*[[Congo]]<br />
*[[Attack from Mars]]<br />
*[[Safecracker]]<br />
*[[Tales of the Arabian Nights]]<br />
*[[Scared Stiff]]<br />
*[[Junk Yard]]<br />
*[[NBA Fastbreak]]<br />
*[[Medieval Madness]]<br />
*[[Cirqus Voltaire]]<br />
*[[No Good Gofers]]<br />
*[[The Championship Pub]]<br />
*[[Monster Bash]]<br />
*[[Cactus Canyon]]<br />
<br />
==Technical Info==<br />
Motorola 68B09E, running at 2Mhz. It is an 8-bit/16-bit CPU with a 64KB address space. Bank switching is required to address more than 64KB. The game ROM size varies from 128KB to 1MB, depending on the game. 8KB of battery backed RAM is available.<br />
<br />
For more information, see [http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc/manual/The-WPC-Hardware.html#The-WPC-Hardware The FreeWPC Manual]<br />
===[[WPC Transformers|'''The WPC Transformer''']]===<br />
===[[The WPC System Boardset and History]]===<br />
----<br />
===WPC CPU Generations===<br />
====[[WPC CPU]]====<br />
====[[WPC-S CPU]]====<br />
====[[WPC-95 CPU]]====<br />
----<br />
===WPC Power/Driver Board Generations===<br />
====[[WPC-089 Power/Driver Board]]====<br />
====WPC-95 Power/Driver Board====<br />
----<br />
===[[WPC Dot Matrix Controller board]]===<br />
<br />
<br />
===WPC Sound Boards===<br />
====[[WPC pre-DCS Sound Board]]====<br />
====[[WPC DCS Sound Board]]====<br />
====[[WPC-95 AV Board]]====<br />
----<br />
===WPC Fliptronics Boards===<br />
====[[WPC Fliptronics I board]]====<br />
====[[WPC Fliptronics II board]]====<br />
----<br />
===Miscellaneous WPC Boards===<br />
Note: Some of these might best be located in the "Game Specific Problems & Fixes" section. Perhaps the pervasiveness of their use within the WPC game list would drive the decision.<br />
====[[WPC 7 Opto Board]]====<br />
====[[WPC 10 Opto Board]]====<br />
====[[Auxiliary 8-Driver Board]]====<br />
as used in TZ, DM, IJ, etc...<br />
====[[Trough opto boards]]====<br />
====[[WH2O & CFTBL chaser lamp boards]]====<br />
====[[HSII & CFTBL triac board]]====<br />
====Coin Door Interface Board==== <br />
<br />
If your coin door interface board gets dusty from flipper parts wearing, clean it. That dust conducts electricity and will give you some interesting coinage issues.<br />
<br />
==Problems and Solutions==<br />
===MPU boot issues===<br />
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====<br />
Relocating the 3xAA battery pack from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of MPU boards. Simply removing the batteries is not an option with WPC games as you will always receive a "Factory Settings Restored" message when the game boots.<br />
<br />
Options:<br />
#Remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won't leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board. Replace the batteries annually, dating them with a Sharpie! as you do.<br />
#Replace the 6264 static RAM with a SIMTEK non-volatile RAM (STK12C68). These SIMTEK RAM chips are increasingly hard to find but offer a nice alternative to changing batteries annually. This method requires desoldering/soldering on the MPU and also has the down-side of not maintaining the Real Time Clock (meaningless in some games...nice in games like Twilight Zone that moves the playfield "toy" clock to the current time during attract mode, and Who?Dunnit which has a "Midnight Madness" feature.<br />
<br />
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====<br />
===Game resets===<br />
====[[A disciplined process to eliminate WPC game resets]]====<br />
===Check fuses F114 and F115 message===<br />
<font color=Red>This section needs much more info and review - especially with the F115 error and repair</font><br />
<br />
WPC games will sometimes boot but will not enter attract mode. Instead, the message "Check fuses F114 and F115" is displayed. A game cannot be started. The following steps can be taken to identify the cause of this message and repair it.<br />
<br />
#First, actually check fuses F114 and F115 as specified [[How_to..._%28solder,_desolder,_%22stitch%22,_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc%29#Testing_fuses| here]]. If a blown fuse is found, replace it.<br />
#If the replaced fuse immediately blows this could be due to a shorted bridge rectifier (among other things). Fuse F114 blowing can be caused by a shorting BR1. These bridge rectifiers are covered by a large heat sink which must be removed before replacing. This sink is removed by removing the two screws which are accessed from the solder side of the board.<br />
<br />
[[File:Test-br.jpg|160px|thumb|left|Checking an uninstalled bridge rectifier]]<br />
To check the bridge rectifiers<br />
#Set your multimeter to the diode setting.<br />
#Put the red lead of your DMM to the negative terminal and the black lead of your DMM to one of the other BR lugs (either that is not diagonally across from the negative lug). Your DMM should read between .4 and .6. A reading of 0 indicates a short and the bridge rectifier should be replaced. Keep your red lead on the negative terminal and move your black lead to the other lug. You should still get a reading of between .4 and .6.<br />
#Now put your black lead of your DMM to the positive terminal and the red lead one one of the BR lugs. Repeat the process above and the settings should be the same.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Wpc-br.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The heat sink covering BR1 and BR2 on a WPC-board]]<br><br />
Take special care when replacing a bridge rectifier. It is easy to lift the traces of the plated through holes when removing these. After removing the heat sink, cut the old bridge rectifier off of the board close to the top leaving as much of the lug as possible. Then add a small amount of solder to the connection on the solder side to improve heat transfer. Finally apply the iron to the solder side to heat the joint and remove the remaining lug with small pliers.<br />
<br />
When replacing the new bridge rectifier you should remove the old thermal compound and apply a new thin layer. The old compound can be removed with a little rubbing alcohol. Apply the thermal compound to the top of the bridge rectifiers and reattach the heat sink with the screws. It is much easier to replace the heat sink before resoldering the new bridge rectifier. Make sure that the heatsink is sitting flush with the tops of the bridge rectifiers and that you leave a gap between the bridge rectifier and the board.<br />
<br />
It is also recommended not to split the heatsink when replacing the bridge rectifiers.<br />
<br />
More info about replacing bridge rectifiers can be found in [[A_disciplined_process_to_eliminate_WPC_game_resets#Failed_Bridge_Rectifier| the section regarding system resets.]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Wps-diodes.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diodes replaced BR1 and BR2 on WPC-95 boards]]<br><br />
In WPC-95 games, the bridge rectifiers were replaced by a series of diodes. These are much less prone to failure but can still cause issues.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
===Solenoid & Flasher problems===<br />
Before proceeding to diagnose solenoid or flasher problems, see this section: [[General#How are coils driven?| How coils and flashers are turned on]]<br />
===Lamp problems===<br />
<br />
Lamps (or globes for those of you in the UK) fall into two categories. "General Illumination" and "Controlled Lamps". Your game probably has other lamps which are actually "flashers" that require an 89 or 906 bulb. Flashers are covered elsewhere in this Wiki.<br />
<br />
General illumination lamps (GI) provide the ambient lighting for the playfield, backbox, and coin door. These lamps are list most of the time. The only "controllable" aspect of these lamps is their brightness.<br />
<br />
Controlled lamps are under complete CPU control via the lamp matrix. These lamps illuminate the various "features" of the game such as mode inserts, pop bumper lamps, inlane/outlane insert lamps, etc.<br />
<br />
====General Illumination Problems====<br />
<br />
'''Background'''<br />
<br />
The WPC power/driver board provides 5 GI circuits under CPU "brightness control". The WPC-95 power/driver board provides 3 GI circuits under CPU "brightness" control and 2 circuits that are always powered. Those two circuits are always connected to the backbox lamps.<br />
<br />
GI power is provided by the transformer in the form of 6.3VAC at power/driver board connector J115. Each of the GI circuits is "metered" by a Triac on one side of AC power. AC power is then supplied to the backbox, playfield, and coin door via power driver board connectors J120, J121, and J119 respectively. J119 is a 3-pin header that is always connected to the coin door lamps. J120 and J121 are electrically and physically identical (keyed at pin 4) and therefore can be connected to either the female playfield GI connector or the female backbox GI connector without care.<br />
<br />
The other side of the AC GI circuit on the power/driver board is fused by F106 through F110 which are all 5ASB fuses.<br />
<br />
Each Triac is switched on/off by a 2N5401 transistor which is controlled by U1, a 74LS374, an octal D-Type Flip-Flop with three state outputs (a fancy way of saying that the device is an 8-bit data buffer).<br />
<br />
Wire colors to J115 during the early WPC games were always yellow (AC) and yellow-white (AC return). Pin 1 of J115 provides the "ground reference". Later WPC games used different wire colors at J115 and instead of "looping" power through the connector at J115, connected two wires to the same pin at the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.<br />
<br />
J119 is always keyed at pin2, with a <b>white-<font color=Purple>Violet</font></b> wire at pin 1 and a <b><font color=Purple>Violet</font></b> wire at pin 3<br />
<br />
J120 and J121 are 11 pin connectors. Wire color/positions (when used) are identical for all WPC games and are shown in the table.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!<center>&nbsp;Pin&nbsp;</center><br />
!&nbsp;Wire color at J120/J121&nbsp;<br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>1</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Brown>Brown</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>2</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Orange>Orange</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>3</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Yellow>Yellow</font></b> (yellow)<br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>4</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>Key</b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>5</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Green>Green</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>6</b></center> || &nbsp;<b><font color=Purple>Violet</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>7</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Brown>Brown</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>8</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Orange>Orange</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>9</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Yellow>Yellow</font></b> (yellow)<br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>10</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Green>Green</font></b><br />
|-<br />
|<center><b>11</b></center> || &nbsp;<b>White-<font color=Purple>Violet</font></b><br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''Common GI Problem Causes''' (listed by probability/ease of testing and correction)<br />
<br />
Let's start by determining if the problem is "off board", i.e. not on your power/driver board, or "on board". <br />
<br />
#Take note of the wire color of the GI string that is not working. <br />
#Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.<br />
#Turn the game on.<br />
#Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector position with the same wire color as noted earlier. Make sure you make contact with the conductor.<br />
#Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector with the white wire that has the same color "tracer" as the color noted earlier.<br />
#You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.<br />
#If there is voltage at the connector, then the problem is "off board".<br />
#If there is no voltage at the connector, then the problem is "on board".<br />
<br />
'''<u>Off board GI problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
#'''All lamps blown.''' Don't laugh. Just for giggles, put a known working lamp into one of the lamp sockets of the suspected GI string. I've seen it more than once. Usually the result of operators never changing a bulb, or somehow connecting higher voltage to the circuit.<br />
#'''"Open" in GI wiring.''' The GI wires leading from J120/J121 may be cut/broken between the connector and the GI lamp sockets. Remove both of the female connectors at J120/J121. Use your DMM to check continuity between the lamp socket and the appropriate wire/pin at J120/J121.<br />
<br />
'''<u>On board GI problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
#'''Blown fuses.''' This is also the easiest problem to fix. Check each GI fuse following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_fuses| <b>procedure</b>]]. Don't trust your eyes.<br />
#'''Burned connectors.''' <need a picture> Over long periods of time, both the male and female GI connectors at J115, J120, and J121 often burn. This was especially prevalent in early WPC games like Terminator 2. Numerous "hacks" have been employed over the years by well meaning repairmen but the only real way to fix burned connectors is to replace both the male header pins and the female housings/pins. "Trifurcon" crimp-on pins are recommended to provide a better connection at the female connector. <br />
#'''Burned AC power input connector.''' There is also a 9-pin (3x3) connector between the transformer secondary and J115. This connector/pins sometimes burn and may require replacement. Check to ensure that AC power is being delivered to the power/driver board at J115.<br />
##Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.<br />
##Turn the game on.<br />
##Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 3.<br />
##Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 11.<br />
##You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.<br />
##If no voltage is present, examine the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.<br />
#'''Burned traces.''' Usually, this is a secondary problem created after the connectors burn. Visual inspection of the traces might uncover the problem, but "buzzing" them for continuity is the best practice.<br />
#'''Failed 2N5401.''' These don't fail very often, but are easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| <b>procedure</b>]].<br />
#'''Failed resistors.''' Again, these don't fail very often but are easy to test with your DMM. Keep in mind that "in-circuit" measurements may not be reliable.<br />
#'''Failed 74LS374.''' This is rare too but easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit | <b>procedure</b>]]. You can also test the outputs of the LS374 by probing pins 2, 5, 6, 16 and 19 with your logic probe. At full GI brightness, these pins should test as "high".<br />
#'''Failed Triac.''' These rarely fail. But, if you've gotten to this step in the procedure, it's time to replace the Triac.<br />
As these boards age it is easy to lose through board continuity. If you put in new connector pins. Be sure and check continuity from the pin onto the board somewhere. Only takes a couple minutes and can save you a lot of work.<br />
<br />
====Controlled Lamp Problems====<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Under construction...</font><br><br />
<br />
===Switch problems===<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>"Switch Matrix" switches section under construction...</font><br><br />
Switches in WPC games fall into two categories, those within the switch matrix, and "direct" switches.<br />
<br />
'''<u>Direct switch operation</u>'''<br />
<br />
Direct switches include:<br />
*Left coin chute<br />
*Center coin chute<br />
*Right coin chute<br />
*4th coin chute<br />
*Service Credits/Escape (referred to as "escape" here)<br />
*Volume down/Down<br />
*Volume up/Up<br />
*Begin Test/Enter<br />
<br />
Direct switches are not part of the WPC switch matrix. All of the direct switches are located on the coin door, and connect to the MPU at J205. The MPU senses these switches individually, and apart from the switch matrix. Therefore, isolation diodes are not used with direct switches.<br />
<br />
Normally, with the switch open, the LM339s at U16 and U17 compare 12V supplied on the MPU to both the switch and to the LM339 with 5V (as a comparison level) and signals the 74LS240 at U15 that the switch is open. When the switch closes, it shorts the 12V to ground and the comparison at the LM339 then indicates to U15 that the switch is closed. U15 is "clocked" by pin 48 of the ASIC (SW DIR), causing U15 to make its data available on the data bus. The 6809/ASIC "debounces" the switch. Debouncing is not a factor to be considered here and doesn't factor in switch testing.<br />
<br />
'''Direct Switch Pinout at J205 for both WPC and WPC-S MPUs'''<br><br />
Notes:<br><br />
:J205, pin 5 is the "key" pin.<br />
:J205, pin 10 provides ground (black wire)<br />
:J205, pin 11 is unused<br />
:J205, pin 12 is an "enable" back to the coin door interface board<br><br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Signal<br />
!Wire color at J205<br />
!MPU pin<br />
!Diode<br />
!LM339 & input pin<br />
!U15 input pin<br />
|-<br />
|<b>Left chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Brown>brown</font></b></center> || <center>J205-1</center> || <center>D15</center> || <center>U17-5</center> || <center>11</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Center chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Red>red</font></b></center> || <center>J205-2</center> || <center>D16</center> || <center>U17-7</center> || <center>13</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Right chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Black>black</font></b></center> || <center>J205-3</center> || <center>D17</center> || <center>U17-11</center> || <center>15</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>4th chute</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Yellow>yellow</font></b></center> || <center>J205-4</center> || <center>D18</center> || <center>U17-9</center> || <center>17</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Escape</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Green>green</font></b></center> || <center>J205-6</center> || <center>D11</center> || <center>U16-9</center> || <center>2</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Down</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Blue>blue</font></b></center> || <center>J205-7</center> || <center>D12</center> || <center>U16-11</center> || <center>4</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Up</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Purple>violet</font></b></center> || <center>J205-8</center> || <center>D13</center> || <center>U16-7</center> || <center>6</center><br />
|-<br />
|<b>Enter</b> || <center><font color=Orange>orange</font>/<b><font color=Gray>gray</font></b></center> || <center>J205-9</center> || <center>D14</center> || <center>U16-5</center> || <center>8</center><br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''<u>Debugging direct switch problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
Some techs will start at the end of the signal path and work back to the switch. This article works from the switch signal source to U15 on the MPU. This allows you to test the easiest, yet high probability failure points, first. If your MPU has obvious alkaline damage at U15, U16, or U17, address the alkaline damage first.<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Begin testing with the game OFF.</font><br />
<br />
'''Test the direct switch's path to ground<br>'''<br />
#DMM set to continuity<br />
#Red lead on the solder joint between the switch and the black wire that provides ground. <br />
#Black lead on any game ground, like the lockdown bar.<br />
#You should hear "tone". If not, further diagnose the break in the black wire between the solder joint and game ground.<br />
<br />
'''Test the direct switch itself<br>'''<br />
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to game ground<br />
#Red lead on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) on the switch under test<br />
#Depress the switch. You should hear "tone". If not, the switch is defective and not "making". See the section below that describes cleaning these switches.<br />
<br />
'''Test the signal path to the MPU<br>'''<br />
#Clip the black lead of your DMM on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.<br />
#Remove the connector plug at J205 from the MPU.<br />
#Red lead on the appropriate pin of J205 for the switch under test. See the table above. It's easiest to access the pin through the rectangular hole in the back of the connector where the pin's "tang" snaps in.<br />
#You should hear "tone". If not, there is a discontinuity in the wire between the direct switch and J205. Note that the coin door interface board is between these two points. The coin door interface board is a "pass-through" for these signals and rarely causes a problem. Still, reseating connectors J1, J3, and J4 on the coin door interface board might uncover the problem. More likely, the wire between J1 on the coin door interface board and J205 has a break in it.<br />
<br />
'''Test the signal path through J205 and onto the MPU<br>'''<br />
J205 is right below the battery holder and as such, sometimes receives the unwanted gift of dripping alkaline from depleted batteries. Carefully examine both the male and female connections of J205 for alkaline "greenies". Assuming no alkaline damage...<br><br />
#Connect J205 to the MPU.<br />
#The black lead of your DMM should still be clipped to the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.<br />
#Red lead on the banded end of the appropriate diode shown in the table above.<br />
#You should hear "tone". If not, there is either a problem with the physical connection at J205 or the alkaline "greenies" are sneakier than you gave them credit for. Re-examine J205 and the surrounding area of the board for alkaline damage. The traces from the switch connectors are very small and it takes very little alkaline damage to compromise them. You may also re-pin the female side of J205.<br />
<br />
At this point, a logic probe would be the best tool to use. You can pick up 5V power for your probe across the electrolytic cap at C31 which is immediately to the right of the battery holder. Black lead on the negative side (top of the cap). Red lead on positive side (bottom). The board is silkscreened with polarity markings. Set the logic probe to "CMOS" test mode, as you will be measuring 12VDC.<br />
<br />
If you don't already have a logic probe, you should. Although for this test, you can still get by with your trusty DMM. Clip the black lead of your DMM to game ground. The ground braid in the head is a good place to pickup ground at this point. Set your DMM to DC volts.<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>You now need to turn the game ON.</font><br />
<br />
'''Test the LM339 inputs<br>'''<br />
#Again, set your logic probe to "CMOS"<br />
#Measure the signal at the appropriate LM339's appropriate pin. Either place your logic probe on the pin or place the Red lead of your DMM on the pin. The signal should measure high (or about 12VDC with your DMM).<br />
#Have someone close the switch under test and hold it closed as you observe the results.<br />
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high, then the pin isn't being grounded correctly. Candidates are a failed diode/resistor in the circuit, the board trace between the diode and the LM339 is compromised, or a badly failed LM339.<br />
#Note that if the signal transitions to low but not "crisply", then the switch is marginal and should be cleaned or replaced to ensure proper future operation. That is, the signal should transition directly from high to low and stay there without flip-flopping much at all while transitioning or when held down.<br />
<br />
'''Test the LM339 outputs/74LS240 (U15) inputs<br>'''<br />
#Set your logic probe back to TTL as you will be measuring 0 - 5V signals<br />
#Measure the signal at the appropriate pin (see table) of U15. The signal should measure high (or about 5VDC with your DMM).<br />
#Have someone close the switch under test and hold it closed as you observe the results.<br />
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high with the button pressed, then either the LM339 outputs have failed, the board trace between the LM339 and U15 is compromised, or the 74LS240 has failed and is corrupting the signal. You can test U15 using the procedure in the "How to..." section of PinWiki, [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing an integrated circuit| here]].<br />
<br />
The output side of U15 can't be tested effectively since that is the processor/ASIC data bus and should be constantly and irregularly changing states.<br />
<br />
If you've followed this process step-by-step (or even in reverse step-by-step), you should have identified the problem with the signal and will be able to effectively perform the appropriate repair.<br />
<br />
'''Cleaning direct switches'''<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Coming soon...will describe disassembly and cleaning...</font><br />
Sometimes, several rigorous open/close cycles will "clean" corrosion from the switch.<br />
<br />
'''<u>WPC Switch Matrix problems</u>'''<br />
<br />
<font color=Red>Coming soon...</font><br />
<br />
===Display problems===<br />
===Sound problems===<br />
===Flipper problems===</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Talk:Williams_WPC&diff=2901Talk:Williams WPC2011-05-21T06:16:48Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>We should push game-specific comments into the game page. Having them all up front is messy. We can always create compendium pages later.--[[User:Mr|Mr]] 04:04, 7 May 2011 (BST)<br />
<br />
Hey Martin...I agree...After the other reorganizing I did...I ran out of energy.<br />
BTW, I made a new page called "WPC DMD Controller Board"...just to be a bit more consistent with other namings. I copied your crack at it into that page. I don't know how to delete old pages.<br />
--Chris Hibler 04:49, 7 May 2011 (BST)<br />
<br />
OK Martin, et.al....moved game specific issues and fixes to a subpage for now...Eventually, these should be moved to the game specific page.<br><br />
--Chris Hibler 04:58, 7 May 2011 (BST)<br />
<br />
Moved all game specific issues to the game's subpage...<br />
--Chris Hibler 03:58, 9 May 2011 (BST)<br />
<br />
OK, I am going to push a few other repairs into their appropriate pages. --[[User:Mr|Mr]] 07:16, 21 May 2011 (BST)</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page/Navigation&diff=2849Main Page/Navigation2011-05-19T05:43:43Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div><div style="margin: -.3em -1em -1em -1em;"><br />
{| style="float:left" width="100%" bgcolor="#fff" border="0" cellpadding="2px" cellspacing="2px"<br />
|- align="center" bgcolor="#e7eef6"<br />
! width="30%" | '''Repair Guides'''<br />
! width="30%" | '''Resources'''<br />
! width="30%" | '''General'''<br />
! width="1%" | '''<div style="font-size:85%;"><span class="plainlinks">[http://pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Main_Page/Navigation&action=edit edit]</span></div>'''<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF; font-size: 92%;"<br />
|<br />
*[[PinWiki Contributors ReadMe|<font color=Green>PinWiki Contributors ReadMe</font>]]<br />
----<br />
*[[Beginner's Notes|<b>Pinball Beginners Start Here</b>]]<br />
----<br />
*[[General|General for All Games]]<br />
----<br />
*[[EM Repair| EM (Electromechanical)]]<br />
*Solid State<br />
**[[Atari Repair|Atari]]<br />
**[[Bally/Stern Electronics Repair Guides| Bally/Stern (classic)]]<br />
**[[Capcom Repair|Capcom]]<br />
**[[Data East/Sega/Stern Pinball Repair Guides| Data East/Sega/Stern (modern)]]<br />
**[[Gameplan Repair|Gameplan]]<br />
**[[Gottlieb Repair Guides|Gottlieb]]<br />
**[[Jersey Jack Repair Guides|Jersey Jack]]<br />
**[[Williams Repair Guides|Williams and Bally/Williams]]<br />
|<br />
* [[Glossary|Glossary Of Pinball Terms]]<br />
* [[Pinball Parts Suppliers]]<br />
* [[Pinball Part Data Sheets]]<br />
* [[Pinball Board Repair Services]]<br />
* [[What is a Pinball Machine Worth?]]<br />
* [[Pinball Restoration]]<br />
|<br />
* [[History]]<br />
* [[Glossary|Glossary Of Pinball Terms]]<br />
* [[Where To Play]]<br />
* [[Tournaments]]<br />
* [[Help:Contents|Wiki Formatting Tips]]<br />
* [[FAQ - The Questions That Get Asked on RGP Every Week]]<br />
* [[News| Site News]]<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
</div></div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page/Navigation&diff=2848Main Page/Navigation2011-05-19T05:43:26Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div><div style="margin: -.3em -1em -1em -1em;"><br />
{| style="float:left" width="100%" bgcolor="#fff" border="0" cellpadding="2px" cellspacing="2px"<br />
|- align="center" bgcolor="#e7eef6"<br />
! width="30%" | '''Repair Guides'''<br />
! width="30%" | '''Resources'''<br />
! width="30%" | '''General'''<br />
! width="1%" | '''<div style="font-size:85%;"><span class="plainlinks">[http://pinwiki.com/index.php?title=Main_Page/Navigation&action=edit edit]</span></div>'''<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF; font-size: 92%;"<br />
|<br />
*[[PinWiki Contributors ReadMe|<font color=Green>PinWiki Contributors ReadMe</font>]]<br />
----<br />
*[[Beginner's Notes|<b>Pinball Beginners Start Here</b>]]<br />
----<br />
*[[General|General for All Games]]<br />
----<br />
*[[EM Repair| EM (Electromechanical)]]<br />
*Solid State<br />
**[[Atari Repair|Atari]]<br />
**[[Bally/Stern Electronics Repair Guides| Bally/Stern (classic)]]<br />
**[[Capcom Repair|Capcom]]<br />
**[[Data East/Sega/Stern Pinball Repair Guides| Data East/Sega/Stern (modern)]]<br />
**[[Gameplan Repair|Gameplan]]<br />
**[[Gottlieb Repair Guides|Gottlieb]]<br />
**[[Jersey Jack Repair Guides|Jersey Jack]]<br />
**[[Williams Repair Guides|Williams and Bally/Williams]]<br />
|<br />
* [[Glossary|Glossary Of Pinball Terms]]<br />
* [[Pinball Parts Suppliers]]<br />
* [[Pinball Part Data Sheets]]<br />
* [[Pinball Board Repair Services]]<br />
* [[What is a Pinball Machine Worth?]]<br />
* [[Pinball Restoration]]<br />
|<br />
* [[History]]<br />
* [[Glossary|Glossary Of Pinball Terms]]<br />
* [[Where To Play]]<br />
* [[Tournaments]]<br />
* [[Help:Contents|Wiki Formatting Tips]]<br />
* [[FAQ - The Questions That Get Asked on RGP Every Week]]<br />
* [[News| Site News]]<br />
test<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
</div></div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_Pinball_Machine_Worth%3F&diff=2847What is a Pinball Machine Worth?2011-05-19T05:24:30Z<p>Mr: /* Prices */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
==Prices==<br />
The value of a pinball machine is a highly subjective topic. A totally restored Medieval Madness might sell to a serious collector for well in excess of $10,000. A pinball dealer might offer $5000 for the same machine a week later. A tire-kicker might offer $3000 because the machine is "not original" and so on.<br />
<br />
Pinball price is dependent on a variety of factors, such as desirability, availability, location and condition. Guides are available that track the price on an annual basis and sites like [http://www.pinpedia.com/prices Pinpedia] list past auction prices. Unfortunately 'shilling' and other nefarious practices can happen on online auction sites, so take the results with a pinch of salt. Just because a machine has a 'Buy it now' for $3k doesn't mean it will sell for $3k.<br />
<br />
A dirty machine, without serious damage, can take 40 hours to clean up and $400 in plastics, rubbers, lamps and materials. Add another $200 for legs, door and trim. Playfield swaps add another 40 hours and $600 - $900 for the playfield. And cabinet decals are another 20 hours plus $300 for the decals.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, too often it seems people will 'discover' an old beat up machine in the back of their garage and assume as they just saw an Addams Family on eBay with a 'Buy it now' of $6k, then their pinball machine is worth at least at much. It can be hard trying to explain to people like this the reality of the situation.<br />
<br />
Rarity does not necessarily mean a higher price. Pinball machines were built to be put on location and make money. If a game was popular with the public, they put more money in them, meaning the operators bought more machines. If a table wasn't popular, not many were bought by the operators and thus not many were made. <br />
<br />
This is self evident with 'Addams Family', a well regarded table and the highest production run of the modern pinball era. This machine can still command a high price even though there were 21,000 of them, whereas a similar machine of the same era like Hurricane with only a few thousand made can be found quite cheaply in comparison.<br />
<br />
There are exceptions to this rule, including prototype machines and limited runs like Big Bang Bar and LOTR:Limited Edition (Gold Trim)<br />
<br />
Broadly speaking, pinball machines price out into several groups. Each group has a high and low section. This list is only an example, as mentioned above there are many factors that can affect the price.<br />
<br />
The high dollar machines tend to be modern solid-state machines with DMD displays. These machines have very broad appeal. Older machines appeal to a narrower audience, and so the price tends to be lower. However, there are still high dollar EM machines.<br />
<br />
===Exceptions===<br />
Pinball machines that can exceed $10,000.<br />
<br />
[[Big Bang Bar]]<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness]] (premium restoration)<br />
<br />
[[Cactus Canyon]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===The "A" List===<br />
$4000 and up<br />
<br />
[[Medieval Madness]]<br />
<br />
[[Monster Bash]]<br />
<br />
Black [[Spider-Man]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===The "B" List===<br />
$3000 - $4000<br />
<br />
[[Attack from Mars]]<br />
<br />
[[Circus Voltaire]]<br />
<br />
[[Safecracker]]<br />
<br />
[[Lord of the Rings]]<br />
<br />
[[Spider-Man]]<br />
<br />
[[Theatre of Magic]]<br />
<br />
[[The Simpsons' Pinball Party]]<br />
<br />
[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]<br />
<br />
[[Twilight Zone]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===The "C" List===<br />
$2000 - $3000<br />
<br />
[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]<br />
<br />
[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]<br />
<br />
[[Whitewater]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===The "D" List===<br />
Under $2,000 <br />
<br />
[[Demolition Man]]<br />
<br />
[[Johnny Mnemonic]]<br />
<br />
[[Judge Dredd]]<br />
<br />
==Resale value==<br />
In general, if the machine is well looked after you tend not to lose money when the time comes to sell it on. They can take a while to sell, depending on what price you set and current market conditions.<br />
<br />
==Aftermarket Modifications==<br />
Some people prefer completely original machines, while others like to fit various modifications to the table. These can vastly affect the price depending on which mods have been fitted, some people pay more for original unmolested tables, whereas others will pay extra for a table that has been fitted with after market modifications.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Talk:What_is_a_Pinball_Machine_Worth%3F&diff=2846Talk:What is a Pinball Machine Worth?2011-05-19T05:21:29Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>I don't like the idea of trying to put games in A list B list etc. categories. <br />
At the end of the day it's worth what it's worth to you! Your "A' list Monster <br />
Bash might be a "C" or "D" lister to me because of the gameplay or I don't like Monsters.<br />
Someone may value 80's games or only EMs ( all of which your game list ignores! )<br />
<br />
Actually, it isn't what it is worth to you, it is worth what someone else will pay for it. Subtle distinction, I know. <br />
What I was trying to do here was to bucket the machines so that people can get some perspective, without trying to create a price guide. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This page is awfully biased towards WPC and Stern games. [[User:Ts4z|ts4z]] 18:41, 17 May 2011 (BST)<br />
<br />
The market sort of reflects the bias. It would be nice to identify high dollar machines from earlier eras, as well as setting some expectations for other machines.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&diff=2231What is a "Hack"?2011-05-08T18:32:31Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.<br />
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine<br />
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible<br />
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix<br />
* Covers up other problems<br />
* Uses incorrect parts<br />
<br />
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.<br />
<br />
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.<br />
<br />
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.<br />
<br />
Here's a common WPC hack.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]<br />
<br />
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.<br />
<br />
Here's a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully correctible, but not what you want in your machine.<br />
<br />
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse. That wire can carry a lot of current before it blows, and the GI circuit can deliver tens of amps. This is dangerous, a playfield short could now start a fire.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&diff=2230What is a "Hack"?2011-05-08T18:31:51Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.<br />
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine<br />
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible<br />
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix<br />
* Covers up other problems<br />
* Uses incorrect parts<br />
<br />
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.<br />
<br />
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.<br />
<br />
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.<br />
<br />
Here's a common WPC hack.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]<br />
<br />
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.<br />
<br />
Here's a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully corectible, but not what you want in your machine.<br />
<br />
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse. That wire can carry a lot of current before it blows, and the GI circuit can deliver tens of amps. This is dangerous, a playfield short could now start a fire.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&diff=2229What is a "Hack"?2011-05-08T18:19:37Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.<br />
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine<br />
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible<br />
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix<br />
* Covers up other problems<br />
* Uses incorrect parts<br />
<br />
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.<br />
<br />
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.<br />
<br />
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.<br />
<br />
Here's a common WPC hack.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]<br />
<br />
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.<br />
<br />
Here's a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully corectible, but not what you want in your machine.<br />
<br />
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse.</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&diff=2228What is a "Hack"?2011-05-08T18:12:57Z<p>Mr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{WIP}}<br />
<br />
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.<br />
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine<br />
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible<br />
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix<br />
* Covers up other problems<br />
* Uses incorrect parts<br />
<br />
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.<br />
<br />
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.<br />
<br />
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.<br />
<br />
Here's a common WPC hack.<br />
Bad WPC GI.jpg</div>Mrhttps://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Bad_WPC_GI.jpg&diff=2227File:Bad WPC GI.jpg2011-05-08T18:11:00Z<p>Mr: Burned-up GI connectors hacked with a soldering iron.</p>
<hr />
<div>Burned-up GI connectors hacked with a soldering iron.</div>Mr