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		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=15801</id>
		<title>What is a &quot;Hack&quot;?</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=15801"/>
		<updated>2016-04-22T21:39:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.&lt;br /&gt;
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix&lt;br /&gt;
* Covers up other problems&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses incorrect parts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a common WPC hack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully correctible, but not what you want in your machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse. That wire can carry a lot of current before it blows, and the GI circuit can deliver tens of amps. This is dangerous, a playfield short could now start a fire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ask Dr Fixpin ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;WARNING:  Do not try any of these hacks at home, these are as their name states, a HACK! This is merely here for some humor and what NOT to do&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin. One of my fuses has blown and I don&#039;t have a spare, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039; Duuur, wrap a wire around the blown fuse of course.  The very adventurous can wrap it in foil or you can simply use an old screw.  The current record by Dr Fixpin is 7 fuses with the wire &#039;trick&#039; in a Gottlieb Freddy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Update:  The record now stands at &#039;&#039;&#039;13&#039;&#039;&#039; in a Super Mario Bros&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wirefuse.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
---- &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a rare sample Williams Indiana Jones pin and I just can&#039;t get the flipper plates to stay on, no matter what I do.  Help!&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Don&#039;t worry, the quickest, prettiest and best method is to screw through the top of the playfield.  You&#039;ll get much better grip as you screw down through the paint on the top.  Also it adds an extra  challenge to the player as the ball will randomly swerve around the screw.  Don&#039;t be afraid to use more than one screw either:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I suck at soldering, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Don&#039;t worry, just flail the iron around and jab solder into it and you&#039;ll eventually get those wires connected!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BadSoldering.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I&#039;ve sorted out the flipper problem on my rare Indiana Jones table, but it seems that the switch for the ball lock isn&#039;t working, is there an easy way to fix this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Of course!  The easiest fix is to simply screw a post in front of the ball lock, thus ensuring that no one can ever have another multiball.  I can also recommend this method on the &#039;Casters club&#039; on Fish Tales, but unfortunately I have lost the photographic evidence:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:IndyPost1.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, some rascal has ripped the side art off of my &amp;quot;Theatre of Magic&amp;quot; and it looks horrible, is there a way I can touch this up?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Easy, just grab a can of black spray paint and pretend you are a graffiti artist.  Don&#039;t worry about colour matching or fancy stuff like that, just spray on the letters that have been torn off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanksyTOM.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, it&#039;s me with the Indy Jones again.  Now it seems that one of the jet bumpers isn&#039;t working.  Can you take me though troubleshooting it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  No worries, simply pick up a screwdriver, some posts and screws.  Now screw those posts all around the broken jet bumper, stopping that pesky ball from ever getting anywhere near it.  It should now be fixed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy2.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Williams Fish Tales that has a few problems, I did have an issue with the casters club but a couple of posts screwed through the playfield fixed that right up!  The problem I have now is that the GI connector keeps on overheating, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Don&#039;t bother replacing the GI connector, that&#039;s for chumps.  What you want to do is to screw a PC fan in the backbox, blowing cool air over the connector and fixing the problem forever!&lt;br /&gt;
(please note that the fan had been moved for access by the time the picture was taken, they weren&#039;t trying to cool the driver board but the burnt GI connector).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FanFT.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin,  the fan idea was great!  It makes me feel like I&#039;ve got a Whirlwind as well as a Fish Tales!  The problem now is that the connector has fallen to bits, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Definitely don&#039;t bother buying/borrowing a crimp tool and replacing the connector, that would make baby jesus cry.  Just get some weird looking black putty stuff and stick it back together again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GiGOO.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, my WPC pinball keeps on resetting during a game, it&#039;s really annoying.  I&#039;ve heard that this is because the +5V is low.  Is there a way to fix it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  First off, don&#039;t worry about the troubleshooting or fixing the +5v problem.  The circuit that generates the +5V on WPC tables is really, really complicated.  I mean, it&#039;s like 5 components or something that would cost $5 to replace.  Your best bet is to just whack a PC power supply in there.  And also don&#039;t worry about disconnecting the original +5V circuit, just solder on to the +5V and GND test points on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
(I&#039;ve seen this fix multiple times, it makes me weep inside each time.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCPSU.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I work in the Data East pinball division as an artist and I would like to know how to spell &amp;quot;Grand Prix&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039; Certainly, it&#039;s spelled &amp;quot;Gran Prix&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Mispelling.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, my mate who works at Data East says you are ace at spelling, could you tell me how to spell the word &amp;quot;Gauge&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ah, you made the classic mistake there, the easy to remember rule is &amp;quot;A before U except after G&amp;quot;, thusly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gauge.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Sega Frankenstein that is missing the metal rail behind the flipper and consequently the balls keep on getting stuck in there!  I&#039;m obviously too much of a cretin to fish around in the bottom of the cabinet to find it to reattach, so what are my repair options?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Stupid question, PUT A SCREW THROUGH IT.  Better yet, put TWO in and use the biggest b*stards you can find.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FrankieScrew.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a World Cup Soccer which has a broken gearbox on the football, which means the ball no longer spins round.  How would I go about rectifying this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  A missing gearbox, eh?  Don&#039;t be a chump and actually *spend* the $50 or so to get a brand new replacement, that would be silly.  You&#039;d have to use Google for at least 45 seconds to find one as well.  Nope, what you need to do is just use a pinball rubber.  This has two benefits:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  It&#039;ll work for about 50 seconds, which is a safety feature as it&#039;s likely to catch fire otherwise&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  It&#039;ll knacker the motor, so you&#039;ll be forced into buying that super expensive and hard to find gearbox and motor assembly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WCS.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a Williams Hurricane where the ferris wheel has stopped working.  I&#039;m completely clueless and would prefer the hardest and most time consuming repair option possible&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Well, the stupid thing to do would be to just buy a new drive belt, as these are easily available, cheap and take about 20 minutes to fit.  What you really, really should do is spend a couple of hours &#039;repairing it&#039; for no good reason.  Get the dremel out, cut the wheel in half then get the metal saw and riveter out and make yourself a new ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Et voila!  This also has the benefit of making it impossible to lock balls, so no more nasty multiball wearing down your machine!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Hurricane.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I do not have a IEC/Kettle plug and I&#039;m desperate to get this machine powered up, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ah yes, IEC leads are next to impossible to find, so what you should do is strip the wires, twist them together and wrap them all up with Sellotape, as it&#039;s well known for it&#039;s electrical properties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MainSellotape.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I need to fit some new flipper plates and bats to my Whitewater, how should I do this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ah, ok.  What you need to do is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  The wrong coils, Gottlieb ones are best&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  Don&#039;t bother with an EOS switch&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.  Attach the return spring to the wiring, it&#039;ll anchor better this way&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ll leave the rest of it for my eagle eyed viewers to spot&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HorribleCoils.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  chopblocks give me a full on Robot Chubby, like seriously.  Every time I see one of those sexy screw-eyed beasts I get a horses handbrake.  How can I get my pervy fix?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Feast your eyes on this surprise, phwoar!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Chopblocks.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I need a few bits and bobs to repair some WPC driver boards.  I&#039;m actually pretty good at soldering but I&#039;m a massive, massive skintflint.  Suggestions?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Well, we all know that things like transistors cost absolutely f*ckloads, like pennies each!  And they are near impossible to find, because you can&#039;t get them from a multitude of suppliers worldwide.  The best thing to do in this situation is to ruin a perfectly good driver board by taking all the components off of it:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC_Desoldered.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  That last idea was fantastic, I was going to use the spare money I&#039;d saved on treating my machine to new rubbers, do you know where I can buy any?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Here&#039;s a tip, you can save yourself even *more* money by fixing up the rubbers that have snapped.  With my patented Dr Fixpin Ever-Last Staples™ you can keep on using those rubbers until they turn into dust!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stapledrubber.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  Unfortunately my GI connector just keeps on burning, no matter how many fans I put on there or how much crazy black gunk I use to stick the connector back together with.  I need a more robust solution!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ok, for this one you&#039;ll need to put in an order of parts.  Don&#039;t be an absolute clown and order yourself a .156 crimper and some headers and pins, ooh no, that&#039;s definitely chump behaviour.  What you need to do in this situation is a more time consuming and completely useless job, using parts that aren&#039;t even close to being the correct ones.  This also has the benefit of making your WPC machine JAMMA compatible, so you can now &amp;lt;strike&amp;gt;play&amp;lt;/strike&amp;gt; blow up JAMMA boards as well as play pinball!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Oh and solder both sets of wires to the same side of the connector, making the whole thing even more completely pointless and idiotic&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:JammaJ120.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Remember,&#039;&#039;&#039; if you screw a post into it, it&#039;ll probably fix it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=15800</id>
		<title>What is a &quot;Hack&quot;?</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=15800"/>
		<updated>2016-04-22T21:36:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: Add in Stapled Rubber and JAMMA&amp;#039;d J120&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.&lt;br /&gt;
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix&lt;br /&gt;
* Covers up other problems&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses incorrect parts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a common WPC hack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully correctible, but not what you want in your machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse. That wire can carry a lot of current before it blows, and the GI circuit can deliver tens of amps. This is dangerous, a playfield short could now start a fire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ask Dr Fixpin ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;WARNING:  Do not try any of these hacks at home, these are as their name states, a HACK! This is merely here for some humor and what NOT to do&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin. One of my fuses has blown and I don&#039;t have a spare, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039; Duuur, wrap a wire around the blown fuse of course.  The very adventurous can wrap it in foil or you can simply use an old screw.  The current record by Dr Fixpin is 7 fuses with the wire &#039;trick&#039; in a Gottlieb Freddy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Update:  The record now stands at &#039;&#039;&#039;13&#039;&#039;&#039; in a Super Mario Bros&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wirefuse.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
---- &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a rare sample Williams Indiana Jones pin and I just can&#039;t get the flipper plates to stay on, no matter what I do.  Help!&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Don&#039;t worry, the quickest, prettiest and best method is to screw through the top of the playfield.  You&#039;ll get much better grip as you screw down through the paint on the top.  Also it adds an extra  challenge to the player as the ball will randomly swerve around the screw.  Don&#039;t be afraid to use more than one screw either:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I suck at soldering, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Don&#039;t worry, just flail the iron around and jab solder into it and you&#039;ll eventually get those wires connected!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BadSoldering.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I&#039;ve sorted out the flipper problem on my rare Indiana Jones table, but it seems that the switch for the ball lock isn&#039;t working, is there an easy way to fix this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Of course!  The easiest fix is to simply screw a post in front of the ball lock, thus ensuring that no one can ever have another multiball.  I can also recommend this method on the &#039;Casters club&#039; on Fish Tales, but unfortunately I have lost the photographic evidence:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:IndyPost1.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, some rascal has ripped the side art off of my &amp;quot;Theatre of Magic&amp;quot; and it looks horrible, is there a way I can touch this up?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Easy, just grab a can of black spray paint and pretend you are a graffiti artist.  Don&#039;t worry about colour matching or fancy stuff like that, just spray on the letters that have been torn off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanksyTOM.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, it&#039;s me with the Indy Jones again.  Now it seems that one of the jet bumpers isn&#039;t working.  Can you take me though troubleshooting it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  No worries, simply pick up a screwdriver, some posts and screws.  Now screw those posts all around the broken jet bumper, stopping that pesky ball from ever getting anywhere near it.  It should now be fixed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy2.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Williams Fish Tales that has a few problems, I did have an issue with the casters club but a couple of posts screwed through the playfield fixed that right up!  The problem I have now is that the GI connector keeps on overheating, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Don&#039;t bother replacing the GI connector, that&#039;s for chumps.  What you want to do is to screw a PC fan in the backbox, blowing cool air over the connector and fixing the problem forever!&lt;br /&gt;
(please note that the fan had been moved for access by the time the picture was taken, they weren&#039;t trying to cool the driver board but the burnt GI connector).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FanFT.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin,  the fan idea was great!  It makes me feel like I&#039;ve got a Whirlwind as well as a Fish Tales!  The problem now is that the connector has fallen to bits, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Definitely don&#039;t bother buying/borrowing a crimp tool and replacing the connector, that would make baby jesus cry.  Just get some weird looking black putty stuff and stick it back together again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GiGOO.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, my WPC pinball keeps on resetting during a game, it&#039;s really annoying.  I&#039;ve heard that this is because the +5V is low.  Is there a way to fix it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  First off, don&#039;t worry about the troubleshooting or fixing the +5v problem.  The circuit that generates the +5V on WPC tables is really, really complicated.  I mean, it&#039;s like 5 components or something that would cost $5 to replace.  Your best bet is to just whack a PC power supply in there.  And also don&#039;t worry about disconnecting the original +5V circuit, just solder on to the +5V and GND test points on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
(I&#039;ve seen this fix multiple times, it makes me weep inside each time.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCPSU.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I work in the Data East pinball division as an artist and I would like to know how to spell &amp;quot;Grand Prix&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039; Certainly, it&#039;s spelled &amp;quot;Gran Prix&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Mispelling.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, my mate who works at Data East says you are ace at spelling, could you tell me how to spell the word &amp;quot;Gauge&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ah, you made the classic mistake there, the easy to remember rule is &amp;quot;A before U except after G&amp;quot;, thusly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gauge.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Sega Frankenstein that is missing the metal rail behind the flipper and consequently the balls keep on getting stuck in there!  I&#039;m obviously too much of a cretin to fish around in the bottom of the cabinet to find it to reattach, so what are my repair options?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Stupid question, PUT A SCREW THROUGH IT.  Better yet, put TWO in and use the biggest b*stards you can find.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FrankieScrew.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a World Cup Soccer which has a broken gearbox on the football, which means the ball no longer spins round.  How would I go about rectifying this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  A missing gearbox, eh?  Don&#039;t be a chump and actually *spend* the $50 or so to get a brand new replacement, that would be silly.  You&#039;d have to use Google for at least 45 seconds to find one as well.  Nope, what you need to do is just use a pinball rubber.  This has two benefits:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  It&#039;ll work for about 50 seconds, which is a safety feature as it&#039;s likely to catch fire otherwise&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  It&#039;ll knacker the motor, so you&#039;ll be forced into buying that super expensive and hard to find gearbox and motor assembly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WCS.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a Williams Hurricane where the ferris wheel has stopped working.  I&#039;m completely clueless and would prefer the hardest and most time consuming repair option possible&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Well, the stupid thing to do would be to just buy a new drive belt, as these are easily available, cheap and take about 20 minutes to fit.  What you really, really should do is spend a couple of hours &#039;repairing it&#039; for no good reason.  Get the dremel out, cut the wheel in half then get the metal saw and riveter out and make yourself a new ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Et voila!  This also has the benefit of making it impossible to lock balls, so no more nasty multiball wearing down your machine!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Hurricane.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I do not have a IEC/Kettle plug and I&#039;m desperate to get this machine powered up, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ah yes, IEC leads are next to impossible to find, so what you should do is strip the wires, twist them together and wrap them all up with Sellotape, as it&#039;s well known for it&#039;s electrical properties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MainSellotape.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I need to fit some new flipper plates and bats to my Whitewater, how should I do this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ah, ok.  What you need to do is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  The wrong coils, Gottlieb ones are best&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  Don&#039;t bother with an EOS switch&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.  Attach the return spring to the wiring, it&#039;ll anchor better this way&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ll leave the rest of it for my eagle eyed viewers to spot&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HorribleCoils.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  chopblocks give me a full on Robot Chubby, like seriously.  Every time I see one of those sexy screw-eyed beasts I get a horses handbrake.  How can I get my pervy fix?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Feast your eyes on this surprise, phwoar!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Chopblocks.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I need a few bits and bobs to repair some WPC driver boards.  I&#039;m actually pretty good at soldering but I&#039;m a massive, massive skintflint.  Suggestions?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Well, we all know that things like transistors cost absolutely f*ckloads, like pennies each!  And they are near impossible to find, because you can&#039;t get them from a multitude of suppliers worldwide.  The best thing to do in this situation is to ruin a perfectly good driver board by taking all the components off of it:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC_Desoldered.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  That last idea was fantastic, I was going to use the spare money I&#039;d saved on treating my machine to new rubbers, do you know where I can buy any?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Here&#039;s a tip, you can save yourself even *more* money by fixing up the rubbers that have snapped.  With my patented Dr Fixpin Ever-Last Staples™ you can keep on using those rubbers until they turn into dust!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stapledrubber.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  Unfortunately my GI connector just keeps on burning, no matter how many fans I put on there or how much crazy black gunk I use to stick the connector back together with.  I need a more robust solution!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ok, for this one you&#039;ll need to put in an order of parts.  Don&#039;t be an absolute clown and order yourself a .156 crimper and some headers and pins, ooh no, that&#039;s definitely chump behaviour.  What you need to do in this situation is a more time consuming and completely useless job, using parts that aren&#039;t even close to being the correct ones.  This also has the benefit of making your WPC machine JAMMA compatible, so you can now &amp;lt;strike&amp;gt;play&amp;lt;/strike&amp;gt; blow up JAMMA boards as well as play pinball!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:JammaJ120.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Remember,&#039;&#039;&#039; if you screw a post into it, it&#039;ll probably fix it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:JammaJ120.jpg&amp;diff=15799</id>
		<title>File:JammaJ120.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:JammaJ120.jpg&amp;diff=15799"/>
		<updated>2016-04-22T21:26:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Stapledrubber.jpg&amp;diff=15798</id>
		<title>File:Stapledrubber.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Stapledrubber.jpg&amp;diff=15798"/>
		<updated>2016-04-22T21:24:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: Sonny Jim uploaded a new version of &amp;amp;quot;File:Stapledrubber.jpg&amp;amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Stapledrubber.jpg&amp;diff=15797</id>
		<title>File:Stapledrubber.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Stapledrubber.jpg&amp;diff=15797"/>
		<updated>2016-04-22T21:21:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Shadow&amp;diff=8641</id>
		<title>The Shadow</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Shadow&amp;diff=8641"/>
		<updated>2012-10-07T23:08:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* Game-Specific Issues */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally ||     WPC-Security || 1994 ||  50032 || 4,247&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Shadow Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Shadow Shop Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WPC Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game-Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Fast shots to the lower phurba ramp diverted to the right sometimes get stuck because of the switch wireform hanging the ball up.  One way to fix this is to get a replacement microswitch with a long wire actuator, and bend it so the activation occurs much later down the wireform ramp, as shown in this photo: [[Media:shadowswitch.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Make sure the right autofire plunger is fitted!  In the manual it says to use part A-2306-A.  This is incorrect, for much more consistent autofiring use an A-17767 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:If you are having problems with the Battlefield area, make sure the IDC connector on the opto board hasn&#039;t been damaged.  Also make sure to cable tidy the kicker coil wires neatly to avoid the wires being chafed as the kicker moves around&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Shadow&amp;diff=8640</id>
		<title>The Shadow</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Shadow&amp;diff=8640"/>
		<updated>2012-10-07T23:05:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* Game-Specific Issues */ Shadow autofire fix&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally ||     WPC-Security || 1994 ||  50032 || 4,247&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Shadow Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Shadow Shop Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WPC Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game-Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Fast shots to the lower phurba ramp diverted to the right sometimes get stuck because of the switch wireform hanging the ball up.  One way to fix this is to get a replacement microswitch with a long wire actuator, and bend it so the activation occurs much later down the wireform ramp, as shown in this photo: [[Media:shadowswitch.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:Make sure the right autofire plunger is fitted!  In the manual it says to use part A-2306-A.  This is incorrect, for much more consistent autofiring use an A-17767 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8253</id>
		<title>What is a &quot;Hack&quot;?</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8253"/>
		<updated>2012-07-21T10:28:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: Formatting&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.&lt;br /&gt;
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix&lt;br /&gt;
* Covers up other problems&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses incorrect parts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a common WPC hack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully correctible, but not what you want in your machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse. That wire can carry a lot of current before it blows, and the GI circuit can deliver tens of amps. This is dangerous, a playfield short could now start a fire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ask Dr Fixpin ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;WARNING:  Do not try any of these hacks at home, these are as their name states, a HACK! This is merely here for some humor and what NOT to do&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin. One of my fuses has blown and I don&#039;t have a spare, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039; Duuur, wrap a wire around the blown fuse of course.  The very adventurous can wrap it in foil or you can simply use an old screw.  The current record by Dr Fixpin is 7 fuses with the wire &#039;trick&#039; in a Gottlieb Freddy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Update:  The record now stands at &#039;&#039;&#039;13&#039;&#039;&#039; in a Super Mario Bros&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wirefuse.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
---- &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a rare sample Williams Indiana Jones pin and I just can&#039;t get the flipper plates to stay on, no matter what I do.  Help!&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Don&#039;t worry, the quickest, prettiest and best method is to screw through the top of the playfield.  You&#039;ll get much better grip as you screw down through the paint on the top.  Also it adds an extra  challenge to the player as the ball will randomly swerve around the screw.  Don&#039;t be afraid to use more than one screw either:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I suck at soldering, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Don&#039;t worry, just flail the iron around and jab solder into it and you&#039;ll eventually get those wires connected!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BadSoldering.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I&#039;ve sorted out the flipper problem on my rare Indiana Jones table, but it seems that the switch for the ball lock isn&#039;t working, is there an easy way to fix this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Of course!  The easiest fix is to simply screw a post in front of the ball lock, thus ensuring that no one can ever have another multiball.  I can also recommend this method on the &#039;Casters club&#039; on Fish Tales, but unfortunately I lost the photographic evidence:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:IndyPost1.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, some rascal has ripped the side art off of my &amp;quot;Theatre of Magic&amp;quot; and it looks horrible, is there a way I can touch this up?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Easy, just grab a can of black spray paint and pretend you are Banksy.  Don&#039;t worry about colour matching or fancy stuff like that, just spray on the letters that have been torn off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanksyTOM.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, it&#039;s me with the Indy Jones again.  Now it seems that one of the jet bumpers isn&#039;t working.  Can you take me though troubleshooting it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  No worries, simply pick up a screwdriver, some posts and screws.  Now screw those posts all around the broken jet bumper, stopping that pesky ball from ever getting anywhere near it.  It should now be fixed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy2.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Williams Fishtales that has a few problems, I did have an issue with the casters club but a couple of posts screwed through the playfield fixed that right up!  The problem I have now is that the GI connector keeps on overheating, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Don&#039;t bother replacing the GI connector, that&#039;s for chumps.  What you want to do is to screw a PC fan in the backbox, blowing cool air over the connector and fixing the problem forever!&lt;br /&gt;
(please note that the fan had been moved for access by the picture was taken, they weren&#039;t trying to cool the driver board but the burnt GI connecter).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FanFT.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin,  the fan idea was great!  It makes me feel like I&#039;ve got a Whirlwind as well as a fish tales!  The problem now is that the connector has fallen to bits, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Definitely don&#039;t bother buying/borrowing a crimp tool and replacing the connector, that would make baby jesus cry.  Just get some weird looking black putty stuff and stick it back together again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GiGOO.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, my WPC pinball keeps on resetting during a game, it&#039;s really annoying.  I&#039;ve heard that this is because the +5V is low.  Is there a way to fix it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  First off, don&#039;t worry about the troubleshooting or fixing the +5v problem.  The circuit that generates the +5V on WPC tables is really, really complicated.  I mean, it&#039;s like 5 components or something that would cost $5 to replace.  Your best bet is to just whack a PC power supply in there.  And also don&#039;t worry about disconnecting the original +5V circuit, just solder on to the +5V and GND test points on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
(I&#039;ve seen this fix multiple times, it makes me weep inside each time.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCPSU.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, I work in the Data East pinball division as an artist and I would like to know how to spell &amp;quot;Grand Prix&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039; Certainly, it&#039;s spelled &amp;quot;Gran Prix&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Mispelling.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039; Dear Dr Fixpin, my mate who works at Data East says you are ace at spelling, could you tell me how to spell the word &amp;quot;Gauge&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ah, you made the classic mistake there, the easy to remember rule is &amp;quot;A before U except after G&amp;quot;, thusly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gauge.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Sega Frankenstein that is missing the metal rail behind the flipper and consequently the balls keep on getting stuck in there!  I&#039;m obviously too much of a cretin to fish around in the bottom of the cabinet to find it to reattach, so what are my repair options?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Stupid question, PUT A SCREW THROUGH IT.  Better yet, put TWO in and use the biggest b*stards you can find.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FrankieScrew.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a World Cup Soccer which has a broken gearbox on the football, which means the ball no longer spins round.  How would I go about rectifying this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  A missing gearbox, eh?  Don&#039;t be a chump and actually *spend* the $50 or so to get a brand new replacement, that would be silly.  You&#039;d have to use Google for at least 45 seconds to find one as well.  Nope, what you need to do is just use a pinball rubber.  This has two benefits:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  It&#039;ll work for about 50 seconds, which is a safety feature as it&#039;s likely to catch fire otherwise&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  It&#039;ll knacker the motor, so you&#039;ll be forced into buying that super expensive and hard to find gearbox and motor assembly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WCS.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a Williams Hurricane where the ferris wheel has stopped working.  I&#039;m completely clueless and would prefer the hardest and most time consuming repair option possible&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Well, the stupid thing to do would be to just buy a new drive belt, as these are easily available, cheap and take about 20 minutes to fit.  What you really, really should do is spend a couple of hours &#039;repairing it&#039; for no good reason.  Get the dremel out, cut the wheel in half then get the metal saw and riveter out and make yourself a new ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Et voila!  This also has the benefit of making it impossible to lock balls, so no more nasty multiball wearing down your machine!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Hurricane.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I do not have a IEC/Kettle plug and I&#039;m desperate to get this machine powered up, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ah yes, IEC leads are next to impossible to find, so what you should do is strip the wires, twist them together and wrap them all up with Sellotape, as it&#039;s well known for it&#039;s electrical properties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MainSellotape.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin, I need to fit some new flipper plates and bats to my Whitewater, how should I do this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Ah, ok.  What you need to do is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  The wrong coils, Gottlieb ones are best&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  Don&#039;t bother with an EOS switch&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.  Attach the return spring to the wiring, it&#039;ll anchor better this way&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ll leave the rest of it for my eagle eyed viewers to spot&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HorribleCoils.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  chopblocks give me a full on Robot Chubby, like seriously.  Every time I see one of those sexy screw-eyed beasts I get a horses handbrake.  How can I get my pervy fix?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Feast your eyes on this surprise, phwoar!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Chopblocks.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Q.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I need a few bits and bobs to repair some WPC driver boards.  I&#039;m actually pretty good at soldering but I&#039;m a massive, massive skintflint.  Suggestions?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;A.&#039;&#039;&#039;  Well, we all know that things like transistors cost absolutely f*ckloads, like 20p each!  And they are near impossible to find, because you can&#039;t get them from a multitude of suppliers worldwide.  The best thing to do in this situation is to ruin a perfectly good driver board by taking all the components off of it:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC_Desoldered.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Remember,&#039;&#039;&#039; if you screw a post into it, it&#039;ll probably fix it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8252</id>
		<title>What is a &quot;Hack&quot;?</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8252"/>
		<updated>2012-07-21T10:25:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.&lt;br /&gt;
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix&lt;br /&gt;
* Covers up other problems&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses incorrect parts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a common WPC hack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully correctible, but not what you want in your machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse. That wire can carry a lot of current before it blows, and the GI circuit can deliver tens of amps. This is dangerous, a playfield short could now start a fire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ask Dr Fixpin ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;WARNING:  Do not try any of these hacks at home, these are as their name states, a HACK! This is merely here for some humor and what NOT to do&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin. One of my fuses has blown and I don&#039;t have a spare, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A. Duuur, wrap a wire around the blown fuse of course.  The very adventurous can wrap it in foil or you can simply use an old screw.  The current record by Dr Fixpin is 7 fuses with the wire &#039;trick&#039; in a Gottlieb Freddy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Update:  The record now stands at &#039;&#039;&#039;13&#039;&#039;&#039; in a Super Mario Bros&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wirefuse.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
---- &lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a rare sample Williams Indiana Jones pin and I just can&#039;t get the flipper plates to stay on, no matter what I do.  Help!&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t worry, the quickest, prettiest and best method is to screw through the top of the playfield.  You&#039;ll get much better grip as you screw down through the paint on the top.  Also it adds an extra  challenge to the player as the ball will randomly swerve around the screw.  Don&#039;t be afraid to use more than one screw either:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I suck at soldering, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t worry, just flail the iron around and jab solder into it and you&#039;ll eventually get those wires connected!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BadSoldering.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I&#039;ve sorted out the flipper problem on my rare Indiana Jones table, but it seems that the switch for the ball lock isn&#039;t working, is there an easy way to fix this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Of course!  The easiest fix is to simply screw a post in front of the ball lock, thus ensuring that no one can ever have another multiball.  I can also recommend this method on the &#039;Casters club&#039; on Fish Tales, but unfortunately I lost the photographic evidence:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:IndyPost1.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, some rascal has ripped the side art off of my &amp;quot;Theatre of Magic&amp;quot; and it looks horrible, is there a way I can touch this up?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Easy, just grab a can of black spray paint and pretend you are Banksy.  Don&#039;t worry about colour matching or fancy stuff like that, just spray on the letters that have been torn off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanksyTOM.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, it&#039;s me with the Indy Jones again.  Now it seems that one of the jet bumpers isn&#039;t working.  Can you take me though troubleshooting it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  No worries, simply pick up a screwdriver, some posts and screws.  Now screw those posts all around the broken jet bumper, stopping that pesky ball from ever getting anywhere near it.  It should now be fixed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy2.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Williams Fishtales that has a few problems, I did have an issue with the casters club but a couple of posts screwed through the playfield fixed that right up!  The problem I have now is that the GI connector keeps on overheating, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t bother replacing the GI connector, that&#039;s for chumps.  What you want to do is to screw a PC fan in the backbox, blowing cool air over the connector and fixing the problem forever!&lt;br /&gt;
(please note that the fan had been moved for access by the picture was taken, they weren&#039;t trying to cool the driver board but the burnt GI connecter).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FanFT.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin,  the fan idea was great!  It makes me feel like I&#039;ve got a Whirlwind as well as a fish tales!  The problem now is that the connector has fallen to bits, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Definitely don&#039;t bother buying/borrowing a crimp tool and replacing the connector, that would make baby jesus cry.  Just get some weird looking black putty stuff and stick it back together again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GiGOO.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, my WPC pinball keeps on resetting during a game, it&#039;s really annoying.  I&#039;ve heard that this is because the +5V is low.  Is there a way to fix it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  First off, don&#039;t worry about the troubleshooting or fixing the +5v problem.  The circuit that generates the +5V on WPC tables is really, really complicated.  I mean, it&#039;s like 5 components or something that would cost $5 to replace.  Your best bet is to just whack a PC power supply in there.  And also don&#039;t worry about disconnecting the original +5V circuit, just solder on to the +5V and GND test points on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
(I&#039;ve seen this fix multiple times, it makes me weep inside each time.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCPSU.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I work in the Data East pinball division as an artist and I would like to know how to spell &amp;quot;Grand Prix&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A. Certainly, it&#039;s spelled &amp;quot;Gran Prix&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Mispelling.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, my mate who works at Data East says you are ace at spelling, could you tell me how to spell the word &amp;quot;Gauge&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah, you made the classic mistake there, the easy to remember rule is &amp;quot;A before U except after G&amp;quot;, thusly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gauge.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Sega Frankenstein that is missing the metal rail behind the flipper and consequently the balls keep on getting stuck in there!  I&#039;m obviously too much of a cretin to fish around in the bottom of the cabinet to find it to reattach, so what are my repair options?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Stupid question, PUT A SCREW THROUGH IT.  Better yet, put TWO in and use the biggest b*stards you can find.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FrankieScrew.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a World Cup Soccer which has a broken gearbox on the football, which means the ball no longer spins round.  How would I go about rectifying this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  A missing gearbox, eh?  Don&#039;t be a chump and actually *spend* the $50 or so to get a brand new replacement, that would be silly.  You&#039;d have to use Google for at least 45 seconds to find one as well.  Nope, what you need to do is just use a pinball rubber.  This has two benefits:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  It&#039;ll work for about 50 seconds, which is a safety feature as it&#039;s likely to catch fire otherwise&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  It&#039;ll knacker the motor, so you&#039;ll be forced into buying that super expensive and hard to find gearbox and motor assembly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WCS.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a Williams Hurricane where the ferris wheel has stopped working.  I&#039;m completely clueless and would prefer the hardest and most time consuming repair option possible&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Well, the stupid thing to do would be to just buy a new drive belt, as these are easily available, cheap and take about 20 minutes to fit.  What you really, really should do is spend a couple of hours &#039;repairing it&#039; for no good reason.  Get the dremel out, cut the wheel in half then get the metal saw and riveter out and make yourself a new ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Et voila!  This also has the benefit of making it impossible to lock balls, so no more nasty multiball wearing down your machine!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Hurricane.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I do not have a IEC/Kettle plug and I&#039;m desperate to get this machine powered up, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah yes, IEC leads are next to impossible to find, so what you should do is strip the wires, twist them together and wrap them all up with Sellotape, as it&#039;s well known for it&#039;s electrical properties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MainSellotape.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I need to fit some new flipper plates and bats to my Whitewater, how should I do this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah, ok.  What you need to do is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  The wrong coils, Gottlieb ones are best&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  Don&#039;t bother with an EOS switch&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.  Attach the return spring to the wiring, it&#039;ll anchor better this way&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ll leave the rest of it for my eagle eyed viewers to spot&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HorribleCoils.jog]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  chopblocks give me a full on Robot Chubby, like seriously.  Every time I see one of those sexy screw-eyed beasts I get a horses handbrake.  How can I get my pervy fix?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Feast your eyes on this surprise:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Chopblocks.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I need a few bits and bobs to repair some WPC driver boards.  I&#039;m actually pretty good at soldering but I&#039;m a massive, massive skintflint.  Suggestions?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Well, we all know that things like transistors cost absolutely f*ckloads, like 20p each!  And they are near impossible to find, because you can&#039;t get them from a multitude of suppliers worldwide.  The best thing to do in this situation is to ruin a perfectly good driver board by taking all the components off of it:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC_Desoldered.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Remember,&#039;&#039;&#039; if you screw a post into it, it&#039;ll probably fix it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8251</id>
		<title>What is a &quot;Hack&quot;?</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8251"/>
		<updated>2012-07-21T10:25:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.&lt;br /&gt;
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix&lt;br /&gt;
* Covers up other problems&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses incorrect parts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a common WPC hack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully correctible, but not what you want in your machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse. That wire can carry a lot of current before it blows, and the GI circuit can deliver tens of amps. This is dangerous, a playfield short could now start a fire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ask Dr Fixpin ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;WARNING:  Do not try any of these hacks at home, these are as their name states, a HACK! This is merely here for some humor and what NOT to do&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin. One of my fuses has blown and I don&#039;t have a spare, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A. Duuur, wrap a wire around the blown fuse of course.  The very adventurous can wrap it in foil or you can simply use an old screw.  The current record by Dr Fixpin is 7 fuses with the wire &#039;trick&#039; in a Gottlieb Freddy.&lt;br /&gt;
Update:  The record now stands at &#039;&#039;&#039;13&#039;&#039;&#039; in a Super Mario Bros&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wirefuse.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
---- &lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a rare sample Williams Indiana Jones pin and I just can&#039;t get the flipper plates to stay on, no matter what I do.  Help!&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t worry, the quickest, prettiest and best method is to screw through the top of the playfield.  You&#039;ll get much better grip as you screw down through the paint on the top.  Also it adds an extra  challenge to the player as the ball will randomly swerve around the screw.  Don&#039;t be afraid to use more than one screw either:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I suck at soldering, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t worry, just flail the iron around and jab solder into it and you&#039;ll eventually get those wires connected!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BadSoldering.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I&#039;ve sorted out the flipper problem on my rare Indiana Jones table, but it seems that the switch for the ball lock isn&#039;t working, is there an easy way to fix this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Of course!  The easiest fix is to simply screw a post in front of the ball lock, thus ensuring that no one can ever have another multiball.  I can also recommend this method on the &#039;Casters club&#039; on Fish Tales, but unfortunately I lost the photographic evidence:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:IndyPost1.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, some rascal has ripped the side art off of my &amp;quot;Theatre of Magic&amp;quot; and it looks horrible, is there a way I can touch this up?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Easy, just grab a can of black spray paint and pretend you are Banksy.  Don&#039;t worry about colour matching or fancy stuff like that, just spray on the letters that have been torn off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanksyTOM.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, it&#039;s me with the Indy Jones again.  Now it seems that one of the jet bumpers isn&#039;t working.  Can you take me though troubleshooting it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  No worries, simply pick up a screwdriver, some posts and screws.  Now screw those posts all around the broken jet bumper, stopping that pesky ball from ever getting anywhere near it.  It should now be fixed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy2.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Williams Fishtales that has a few problems, I did have an issue with the casters club but a couple of posts screwed through the playfield fixed that right up!  The problem I have now is that the GI connector keeps on overheating, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t bother replacing the GI connector, that&#039;s for chumps.  What you want to do is to screw a PC fan in the backbox, blowing cool air over the connector and fixing the problem forever!&lt;br /&gt;
(please note that the fan had been moved for access by the picture was taken, they weren&#039;t trying to cool the driver board but the burnt GI connecter).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FanFT.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin,  the fan idea was great!  It makes me feel like I&#039;ve got a Whirlwind as well as a fish tales!  The problem now is that the connector has fallen to bits, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Definitely don&#039;t bother buying/borrowing a crimp tool and replacing the connector, that would make baby jesus cry.  Just get some weird looking black putty stuff and stick it back together again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GiGOO.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, my WPC pinball keeps on resetting during a game, it&#039;s really annoying.  I&#039;ve heard that this is because the +5V is low.  Is there a way to fix it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  First off, don&#039;t worry about the troubleshooting or fixing the +5v problem.  The circuit that generates the +5V on WPC tables is really, really complicated.  I mean, it&#039;s like 5 components or something that would cost $5 to replace.  Your best bet is to just whack a PC power supply in there.  And also don&#039;t worry about disconnecting the original +5V circuit, just solder on to the +5V and GND test points on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
(I&#039;ve seen this fix multiple times, it makes me weep inside each time.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCPSU.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I work in the Data East pinball division as an artist and I would like to know how to spell &amp;quot;Grand Prix&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A. Certainly, it&#039;s spelled &amp;quot;Gran Prix&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Mispelling.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, my mate who works at Data East says you are ace at spelling, could you tell me how to spell the word &amp;quot;Gauge&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah, you made the classic mistake there, the easy to remember rule is &amp;quot;A before U except after G&amp;quot;, thusly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gauge.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Sega Frankenstein that is missing the metal rail behind the flipper and consequently the balls keep on getting stuck in there!  I&#039;m obviously too much of a cretin to fish around in the bottom of the cabinet to find it to reattach, so what are my repair options?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Stupid question, PUT A SCREW THROUGH IT.  Better yet, put TWO in and use the biggest b*stards you can find.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FrankieScrew.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a World Cup Soccer which has a broken gearbox on the football, which means the ball no longer spins round.  How would I go about rectifying this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  A missing gearbox, eh?  Don&#039;t be a chump and actually *spend* the $50 or so to get a brand new replacement, that would be silly.  You&#039;d have to use Google for at least 45 seconds to find one as well.  Nope, what you need to do is just use a pinball rubber.  This has two benefits:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  It&#039;ll work for about 50 seconds, which is a safety feature as it&#039;s likely to catch fire otherwise&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  It&#039;ll knacker the motor, so you&#039;ll be forced into buying that super expensive and hard to find gearbox and motor assembly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WCS.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a Williams Hurricane where the ferris wheel has stopped working.  I&#039;m completely clueless and would prefer the hardest and most time consuming repair option possible&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Well, the stupid thing to do would be to just buy a new drive belt, as these are easily available, cheap and take about 20 minutes to fit.  What you really, really should do is spend a couple of hours &#039;repairing it&#039; for no good reason.  Get the dremel out, cut the wheel in half then get the metal saw and riveter out and make yourself a new ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Et voila!  This also has the benefit of making it impossible to lock balls, so no more nasty multiball wearing down your machine!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Hurricane.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I do not have a IEC/Kettle plug and I&#039;m desperate to get this machine powered up, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah yes, IEC leads are next to impossible to find, so what you should do is strip the wires, twist them together and wrap them all up with Sellotape, as it&#039;s well known for it&#039;s electrical properties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MainSellotape.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I need to fit some new flipper plates and bats to my Whitewater, how should I do this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah, ok.  What you need to do is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  The wrong coils, Gottlieb ones are best&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  Don&#039;t bother with an EOS switch&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.  Attach the return spring to the wiring, it&#039;ll anchor better this way&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ll leave the rest of it for my eagle eyed viewers to spot&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HorribleCoils.jog]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  chopblocks give me a full on Robot Chubby, like seriously.  Every time I see one of those sexy screw-eyed beasts I get a horses handbrake.  How can I get my pervy fix?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Feast your eyes on this surprise:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Chopblocks.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I need a few bits and bobs to repair some WPC driver boards.  I&#039;m actually pretty good at soldering but I&#039;m a massive, massive skintflint.  Suggestions?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Well, we all know that things like transistors cost absolutely f*ckloads, like 20p each!  And they are near impossible to find, because you can&#039;t get them from a multitude of suppliers worldwide.  The best thing to do in this situation is to ruin a perfectly good driver board by taking all the components off of it:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC_Desoldered.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Remember,&#039;&#039;&#039; if you screw a post into it, it&#039;ll probably fix it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8250</id>
		<title>What is a &quot;Hack&quot;?</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8250"/>
		<updated>2012-07-21T10:24:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: Add some more Dr Fixpin&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.&lt;br /&gt;
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix&lt;br /&gt;
* Covers up other problems&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses incorrect parts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a common WPC hack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully correctible, but not what you want in your machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse. That wire can carry a lot of current before it blows, and the GI circuit can deliver tens of amps. This is dangerous, a playfield short could now start a fire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ask Dr Fixpin ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;WARNING:  Do not try any of these hacks at home, these are as their name states, a HACK! This is merely here for some humor and what NOT to do&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin. One of my fuses has blown and I don&#039;t have a spare, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A. Duuur, wrap a wire around the blown fuse of course.  The very adventurous can wrap it in foil or you can simply use an old screw.  The current record by Dr Fixpin is 7 fuses with the wire &#039;trick&#039; in a Gottlieb Freddy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wirefuse.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
---- &lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a rare sample Williams Indiana Jones pin and I just can&#039;t get the flipper plates to stay on, no matter what I do.  Help!&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t worry, the quickest, prettiest and best method is to screw through the top of the playfield.  You&#039;ll get much better grip as you screw down through the paint on the top.  Also it adds an extra  challenge to the player as the ball will randomly swerve around the screw.  Don&#039;t be afraid to use more than one screw either:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I suck at soldering, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t worry, just flail the iron around and jab solder into it and you&#039;ll eventually get those wires connected!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BadSoldering.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I&#039;ve sorted out the flipper problem on my rare Indiana Jones table, but it seems that the switch for the ball lock isn&#039;t working, is there an easy way to fix this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Of course!  The easiest fix is to simply screw a post in front of the ball lock, thus ensuring that no one can ever have another multiball.  I can also recommend this method on the &#039;Casters club&#039; on Fish Tales, but unfortunately I lost the photographic evidence:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:IndyPost1.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, some rascal has ripped the side art off of my &amp;quot;Theatre of Magic&amp;quot; and it looks horrible, is there a way I can touch this up?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Easy, just grab a can of black spray paint and pretend you are Banksy.  Don&#039;t worry about colour matching or fancy stuff like that, just spray on the letters that have been torn off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanksyTOM.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, it&#039;s me with the Indy Jones again.  Now it seems that one of the jet bumpers isn&#039;t working.  Can you take me though troubleshooting it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  No worries, simply pick up a screwdriver, some posts and screws.  Now screw those posts all around the broken jet bumper, stopping that pesky ball from ever getting anywhere near it.  It should now be fixed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy2.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Williams Fishtales that has a few problems, I did have an issue with the casters club but a couple of posts screwed through the playfield fixed that right up!  The problem I have now is that the GI connector keeps on overheating, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t bother replacing the GI connector, that&#039;s for chumps.  What you want to do is to screw a PC fan in the backbox, blowing cool air over the connector and fixing the problem forever!&lt;br /&gt;
(please note that the fan had been moved for access by the picture was taken, they weren&#039;t trying to cool the driver board but the burnt GI connecter).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FanFT.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin,  the fan idea was great!  It makes me feel like I&#039;ve got a Whirlwind as well as a fish tales!  The problem now is that the connector has fallen to bits, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Definitely don&#039;t bother buying/borrowing a crimp tool and replacing the connector, that would make baby jesus cry.  Just get some weird looking black putty stuff and stick it back together again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GiGOO.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, my WPC pinball keeps on resetting during a game, it&#039;s really annoying.  I&#039;ve heard that this is because the +5V is low.  Is there a way to fix it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  First off, don&#039;t worry about the troubleshooting or fixing the +5v problem.  The circuit that generates the +5V on WPC tables is really, really complicated.  I mean, it&#039;s like 5 components or something that would cost $5 to replace.  Your best bet is to just whack a PC power supply in there.  And also don&#039;t worry about disconnecting the original +5V circuit, just solder on to the +5V and GND test points on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
(I&#039;ve seen this fix multiple times, it makes me weep inside each time.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PCPSU.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I work in the Data East pinball division as an artist and I would like to know how to spell &amp;quot;Grand Prix&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A. Certainly, it&#039;s spelled &amp;quot;Gran Prix&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Mispelling.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, my mate who works at Data East says you are ace at spelling, could you tell me how to spell the word &amp;quot;Gauge&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah, you made the classic mistake there, the easy to remember rule is &amp;quot;A before U except after G&amp;quot;, thusly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gauge.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Sega Frankenstein that is missing the metal rail behind the flipper and consequently the balls keep on getting stuck in there!  I&#039;m obviously too much of a cretin to fish around in the bottom of the cabinet to find it to reattach, so what are my repair options?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Stupid question, PUT A SCREW THROUGH IT.  Better yet, put TWO in and use the biggest b*stards you can find.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FrankieScrew.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a World Cup Soccer which has a broken gearbox on the football, which means the ball no longer spins round.  How would I go about rectifying this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  A missing gearbox, eh?  Don&#039;t be a chump and actually *spend* the $50 or so to get a brand new replacement, that would be silly.  You&#039;d have to use Google for at least 45 seconds to find one as well.  Nope, what you need to do is just use a pinball rubber.  This has two benefits:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  It&#039;ll work for about 50 seconds, which is a safety feature as it&#039;s likely to catch fire otherwise&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  It&#039;ll knacker the motor, so you&#039;ll be forced into buying that super expensive and hard to find gearbox and motor assembly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WCS.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a Williams Hurricane where the ferris wheel has stopped working.  I&#039;m completely clueless and would prefer the hardest and most time consuming repair option possible&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Well, the stupid thing to do would be to just buy a new drive belt, as these are easily available, cheap and take about 20 minutes to fit.  What you really, really should do is spend a couple of hours &#039;repairing it&#039; for no good reason.  Get the dremel out, cut the wheel in half then get the metal saw and riveter out and make yourself a new ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Et voila!  This also has the benefit of making it impossible to lock balls, so no more nasty multiball wearing down your machine!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Hurricane.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I do not have a IEC/Kettle plug and I&#039;m desperate to get this machine powered up, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah yes, IEC leads are next to impossible to find, so what you should do is strip the wires, twist them together and wrap them all up with Sellotape, as it&#039;s well known for it&#039;s electrical properties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MainSellotape.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I need to fit some new flipper plates and bats to my Whitewater, how should I do this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah, ok.  What you need to do is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  The wrong coils, Gottlieb ones are best&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.  Don&#039;t bother with an EOS switch&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.  Attach the return spring to the wiring, it&#039;ll anchor better this way&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ll leave the rest of it for my eagle eyed viewers to spot&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HorribleCoils.jog]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  chopblocks give me a full on Robot Chubby, like seriously.  Every time I see one of those sexy screw-eyed beasts I get a horses handbrake.  How can I get my pervy fix?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Feast your eyes on this surprise:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Chopblocks.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I need a few bits and bobs to repair some WPC driver boards.  I&#039;m actually pretty good at soldering but I&#039;m a massive, massive skintflint.  Suggestions?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Well, we all know that things like transistors cost absolutely f*ckloads, like 20p each!  And they are near impossible to find, because you can&#039;t get them from a multitude of suppliers worldwide.  The best thing to do in this situation is to ruin a perfectly good driver board by taking all the components off of it:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WPC_Desoldered.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Remember,&#039;&#039;&#039; if you screw a post into it, it&#039;ll probably fix it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:WPC_Desoldered.jpg&amp;diff=8249</id>
		<title>File:WPC Desoldered.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:WPC_Desoldered.jpg&amp;diff=8249"/>
		<updated>2012-07-21T10:20:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: I&amp;#039;m too cheap to buy parts&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;I&#039;m too cheap to buy parts&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Chopblocks.jpg&amp;diff=8248</id>
		<title>File:Chopblocks.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Chopblocks.jpg&amp;diff=8248"/>
		<updated>2012-07-21T10:19:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:HorribleCoils.jpg&amp;diff=8247</id>
		<title>File:HorribleCoils.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:HorribleCoils.jpg&amp;diff=8247"/>
		<updated>2012-07-21T10:18:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: Just horrible&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Just horrible&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:MainSellotape.jpg&amp;diff=8246</id>
		<title>File:MainSellotape.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:MainSellotape.jpg&amp;diff=8246"/>
		<updated>2012-07-21T10:17:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: Mains wire held together with Sellotape&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Mains wire held together with Sellotape&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8082</id>
		<title>What is a &quot;Hack&quot;?</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8082"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:38:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: Formatting&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.&lt;br /&gt;
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix&lt;br /&gt;
* Covers up other problems&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses incorrect parts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a common WPC hack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully correctible, but not what you want in your machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse. That wire can carry a lot of current before it blows, and the GI circuit can deliver tens of amps. This is dangerous, a playfield short could now start a fire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ask Dr Fixpin ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;WARNING:  Do not try any of these hacks at home, these hacks were carried out by a qualified professional&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin. One of my fuses has blown and I don&#039;t have a spare, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A. Duuur, wrap a wire around the blown fuse of course.  The very adventurous can wrap it in foil or you can simply use an old screw.  The current record by Dr Fixpin is 7 fuses with the wire &#039;trick&#039; in a Gottlieb Freddy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wirefuse.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
---- &lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a rare sample Williams Indiana Jones pin and I just can&#039;t get the flipper plates to stay on, no matter what I do.  Help!&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t worry, the quickest, prettiest and best method is to screw through the top of the playfield.  You&#039;ll get much better grip as you screw down through the paint on the top.  Also it adds an extra  challenge to the player as the ball will randomly swerve around the screw.  Don&#039;t be afraid to use more than one screw either:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I suck at soldering, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t worry, just flail the iron around and jab solder into it and you&#039;ll eventually get those wires connected!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BadSoldering.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I&#039;ve sorted out the flipper problem on my rare Indiana Jones table, but it seems that the switch for the ball lock isn&#039;t working, is there an easy way to fix this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Of course!  The easiest fix is to simply screw a post in front of the ball lock, thus ensuring that no one can ever have another multiball.  I can also recommend this method on the &#039;Casters club&#039; on Fish Tales, but unfortunately I lost the photographic evidence:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:IndyPost1.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, some rascal has ripped the side art off of my &amp;quot;Theatre of Magic&amp;quot; and it looks horrible, is there a way I can touch this up?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Easy, just grab a can of black spray paint and pretend you are Banksy.  Don&#039;t worry about colour matching or fancy stuff like that, just spray on the letters that have been torn off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanksyTOM.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, it&#039;s me with the Indy Jones again.  Now it seems that one of the jet bumpers isn&#039;t working.  Can you take me though troubleshooting it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  No worries, simply pick up a screwdriver, some posts and screws.  Now screw those posts all around the broken jet bumper, stopping that pesky ball from ever getting anywhere near it.  It should now be fixed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy2.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Williams Fishtales that has a few problems, I did have an issue with the casters club but a couple of posts screwed through the playfield fixed that right up!  The problem I have now is that the GI connector keeps on overheating, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t bother replacing the GI connector, that&#039;s for chumps.  What you want to do is to screw a PC fan in the backbox, blowing cool air over the connector and fixing the problem forever!&lt;br /&gt;
(please note that the fan had been moved for access by the picture was taken, they weren&#039;t trying to cool the driver board but the burnt GI connecter).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FanFT.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin,  the fan idea was great!  It makes me feel like I&#039;ve got a Whirlwind as well as a fish tales!  The problem now is that the connector has fallen to bits, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Definitely don&#039;t bother buying/borrowing a crimp tool and replacing the connector, that would make baby jesus cry.  Just get some weird looking black putty stuff and stick it back together again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GiGOO.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, my WPC pinball keeps on resetting during a game, it&#039;s really annoying.  I&#039;ve heard that this is because the +5V is low.  Is there a way to fix it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  First off, don&#039;t worry about the troubleshooting or fixing the +5v problem.  The circuit that generates the +5V on WPC tables is really, really complicated.  I mean, it&#039;s like 5 components or something that would cost $5 to replace.  Your best bet is to just whack a PC power supply in there.  And also don&#039;t worry about disconnecting the original +5V circuit, just solder on to the +5V and GND test points on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
(I&#039;ve seen this fix multiple times, it makes me weep inside each time.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[File:PCPSU.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I work in the Data East pinball division as an artist and I would like to know how to spell &amp;quot;Grand Prix&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A. Certainly, it&#039;s spelled &amp;quot;Gran Prix&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[File:Mispelling.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, my mate who works at Data East says you are ace at spelling, could you tell me how to spell the word &amp;quot;Gauge&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah, you made the classic mistake there, the easy to remember rule is &amp;quot;A before U except after G&amp;quot;, thusly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gauge.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Sega Frankenstein that is missing the metal rail behind the flipper and consequently the balls keep on getting stuck in there!  I&#039;m obviously too much of a cretin to fish around in the bottom of the cabinet to find it to reattach, so what are my repair options?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Stupid question, PUT A SCREW THROUGH IT.  Better yet, put TWO in and use the biggest b*stards you can find.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FrankieScrew.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a World Cup Soccer which has a broken gearbox on the football, which means the ball no longer spins round.  How would I go about rectifying this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  A missing gearbox, eh?  Don&#039;t be a chump and actually *spend* the $50 or so to get a brand new replacement, that would be silly.  You&#039;d have to use Google for at least 45 seconds to find one as well.  Nope, what you need to do is just use a pinball rubber.  This has two benefits:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  It&#039;ll work for about 50 seconds, which is a safety feature as it&#039;s likely to catch fire otherwise&lt;br /&gt;
2.  It&#039;ll knacker the motor, so you&#039;ll be forced into buying that super expensive and hard to find gearbox and motor assembly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WCS.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a Williams Hurricane where the ferris wheel has stopped working.  I&#039;m completely clueless and would prefer the hardest and most time consuming repair option possible&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Well, the stupid thing to do would be to just buy a new drive belt, as these are easily available, cheap and take about 20 minutes to fit.  What you really, really should do is spend a couple of hours &#039;repairing it&#039; for no good reason.  Get the dremel out, cut the wheel in half then get the metal saw and riveter out and make yourself a new ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Et voila!  This also has the benefit of making it impossible to lock balls, so no more nasty multiball wearing down your machine!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Hurricane.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Remember,&#039;&#039;&#039; if you screw a post into it, it&#039;ll probably fix it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8081</id>
		<title>What is a &quot;Hack&quot;?</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_%22Hack%22%3F&amp;diff=8081"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:35:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: Add &amp;#039;Dr Fixpin&amp;#039;, remove it if it&amp;#039;s inappropiate&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Broadly speaking, a hack is any repair work in the following categories.&lt;br /&gt;
* Represents an irreversible change to the machine&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not leave the machine as close to original as possible&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not solve the problem it is intended to fix&lt;br /&gt;
* Covers up other problems&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses incorrect parts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally, operators want the machine working as fast as possible. And this need may occur when the necessary parts are not available. So anything goes. Collectors, on the other hand, want machines that are as close to original as possible, and have the time to locate and install the correct parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hacks can also allow collectors to substitute for repairs that would otherwise be too complex. If these hacks are reversible, they are preferable to further damaging a machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Commercial pinball resellers vary greatly in quality. Some would never use a hack. Others are driven by the speed at which they can get the game out of the shop, and a hidden shortcut may be just what they needed. This is why it is important to inspect the boardset, playfield and insides of the machine for anything unusual before you buy it. There will always be something you will miss, but if you see something obviously incorrect, you can ask about it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a common WPC hack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Bad WPC GI.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The WPC GI connectors, in most routed machines, suffer from connector burn. The current passing thorugh the GI pins heats them up, and if the machine has been operated in a warm place, can exceed the temperature rating of the connectors. The pins corrode, causing more heat emissions. The plastic browns and melts away, and the GI goes dim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here&#039;s a hack fix. The connector has been removed, and the wires soldered directly to the pins. Repair requires replacing the pins on the main board, and putting new connectors on the wires. This hack is fully correctible, but not what you want in your machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bonus hack: wire across the fuse. That wire can carry a lot of current before it blows, and the GI circuit can deliver tens of amps. This is dangerous, a playfield short could now start a fire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ask Dr Fixpin ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;WARNING:  Do not try any of these hacks at home, these hacks were carried out by a qualified professional&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin. One of my fuses has blown and I don&#039;t have a spare, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A. Duuur, wrap a wire around the blown fuse of course.  The very adventurous can wrap it in foil or you can simply use an old screw.  The current record by Dr Fixpin is 7 fuses with the wire &#039;trick&#039; in a Gottlieb Freddy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Wirefuse.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a rare sample Williams Indiana Jones pin and I just can&#039;t get the flipper plates to stay on, no matter what I do.  Help!&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t worry, the quickest, prettiest and best method is to screw through the top of the playfield.  You&#039;ll get much better grip as you screw down through the paint on the top.  Also it adds an extra  challenge to the player as the ball will randomly swerve around the screw.  Don&#039;t be afraid to use more than one screw either:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I suck at soldering, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t worry, just flail the iron around and jab solder into it and you&#039;ll eventually get those wires connected!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BadSoldering.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I&#039;ve sorted out the flipper problem on my rare Indiana Jones table, but it seems that the switch for the ball lock isn&#039;t working, is there an easy way to fix this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Of course!  The easiest fix is to simply screw a post in front of the ball lock, thus ensuring that no one can ever have another multiball.  I can also recommend this method on the &#039;Casters club&#039; on Fish Tales, but unfortunately I lost the photographic evidence:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:IndyPost1.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, some rascal has ripped the side art off of my &amp;quot;Theatre of Magic&amp;quot; and it looks horrible, is there a way I can touch this up?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Easy, just grab a can of black spray paint and pretend you are Banksy.  Don&#039;t worry about colour matching or fancy stuff like that, just spray on the letters that have been torn off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:BanksyTOM.jpg]] &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, it&#039;s me with the Indy Jones again.  Now it seems that one of the jet bumpers isn&#039;t working.  Can you take me though troubleshooting it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  No worries, simply pick up a screwdriver, some posts and screws.  Now screw those posts all around the broken jet bumper, stopping that pesky ball from ever getting anywhere near it.  It should now be fixed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:ScrewIndy2.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Williams Fishtales that has a few problems, I did have an issue with the casters club but a couple of posts screwed through the playfield fixed that right up!  The problem I have now is that the GI connector keeps on overheating, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Don&#039;t bother replacing the GI connector, that&#039;s for chumps.  What you want to do is to screw a PC fan in the backbox, blowing cool air over the connector and fixing the problem for ever!&lt;br /&gt;
(please note that the fan had been moved for access by the picture was taken, they weren&#039;t trying to cool the driver board but the burnt GI connecter).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FanFT.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin,  the fan idea was great!  It makes me feel like I&#039;ve got a Whirlwind as well as a fish tales!  The problem now is that the connector has fallen to bits, what should I do?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Definitely don&#039;t bother buying/borrowing a crimp tool and replacing the connector, that would make baby jesus cry.  Just get some weird looking black putty stuff and stick it back together again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:GiGOO.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, my WPC pinball keeps on resetting during a game, it&#039;s really annoying.  I&#039;ve heard that this is because the +5V is low.  Is there a way to fix it?&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  First off, don&#039;t worry about the troubleshooting or fixing the +5v problem.  The circuit that generates the +5V on WPC tables is really, really complicated.  I mean, it&#039;s like 5 components or something that would cost $5 to replace.  Your best bet is to just whack a PC power supply in there.  And also don&#039;t worry about disconnecting the original +5V circuit, just solder on to the +5V and GND test points on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
(I&#039;ve seen this fix multiple times, it makes me weep inside each time.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[File:PCPSU.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, I work in the Data East pinball division as an artist and I would like to know how to spell &amp;quot;Grand Prix&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
A. Certainly, it&#039;s spelled &amp;quot;Gran Prix&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[File:Mispelling.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q. Dear Dr Fixpin, my mate who works at Data East says you are ace at spelling, could you tell me how to spell the word &amp;quot;Gauge&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Ah, you made the classic mistake there, the easy to remember rule is &amp;quot;A before U except after G&amp;quot;, thusly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Gauge.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin, I have a Sega Frankenstein that is missing the metal rail behind the flipper and consequently the balls keep on getting stuck in there!  I&#039;m obviously too much of a cretin to fish around in the bottom of the cabinet to find it to reattach, so what are my repair options?&lt;br /&gt;
A.  Stupid question, PUT A SCREW THROUGH IT.  Better yet, put TWO in and use the biggest b*stards you can find.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:FrankieScrew.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a World Cup Soccer which has a broken gearbox on the football, which means the ball no longer spins round.  How would I go about rectifying this?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A.  A missing gearbox, eh?  Don&#039;t be a chump and actually *spend* the $50 or so to get a brand new replacement, that would be silly.  You&#039;d have to use Google for at least 45 seconds to find one as well.  Nope, what you need to do is just use a pinball rubber.  This has two benefits:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.  It&#039;ll work for about 50 seconds, which is a safety feature as it&#039;s likely to catch fire otherwise&lt;br /&gt;
2.  It&#039;ll knacker the motor, so you&#039;ll be forced into buying that super expensive and hard to find gearbox and motor assembly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:WCS.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Q.  Dear Dr Fixpin,  I have a Williams Hurricane where the ferris wheel has stopped working.  I&#039;m completely clueless and would prefer the hardest and most time consuming repair option possible&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
A.  Well, the stupid thing to do would be to just buy a new drive belt, as these are easily available, cheap and take about 20 minutes to fit.  What you really, really should do is spend a couple of hours &#039;repairing it&#039; for no good reason.  Get the dremel out, cut the wheel in half then get the metal saw and riveter out and make yourself a new ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Et voila!  This also has the benefit of making it impossible to lock balls, so no more nasty multiball wearing down your machine!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Hurricane.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Remember,&#039;&#039;&#039; if you screw a post into it, it&#039;ll probably fix it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:ScrewIndy.jpg&amp;diff=8080</id>
		<title>File:ScrewIndy.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:ScrewIndy.jpg&amp;diff=8080"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:22:55Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: uploaded a new version of &amp;amp;quot;File:ScrewIndy.jpg&amp;amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:ScrewIndy2.jpg&amp;diff=8079</id>
		<title>File:ScrewIndy2.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:ScrewIndy2.jpg&amp;diff=8079"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:15:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Wirefuse.jpg&amp;diff=8078</id>
		<title>File:Wirefuse.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Wirefuse.jpg&amp;diff=8078"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:10:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:WCS.jpg&amp;diff=8077</id>
		<title>File:WCS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:WCS.jpg&amp;diff=8077"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:09:52Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:ScrewIndy.jpg&amp;diff=8076</id>
		<title>File:ScrewIndy.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:ScrewIndy.jpg&amp;diff=8076"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:09:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PCPSU.jpg&amp;diff=8075</id>
		<title>File:PCPSU.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PCPSU.jpg&amp;diff=8075"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:09:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Mispelling.jpg&amp;diff=8074</id>
		<title>File:Mispelling.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Mispelling.jpg&amp;diff=8074"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:08:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:IndyPost1.jpg&amp;diff=8073</id>
		<title>File:IndyPost1.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:IndyPost1.jpg&amp;diff=8073"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:08:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Hurricane.jpg&amp;diff=8072</id>
		<title>File:Hurricane.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Hurricane.jpg&amp;diff=8072"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:08:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:GiGOO.jpg&amp;diff=8071</id>
		<title>File:GiGOO.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:GiGOO.jpg&amp;diff=8071"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:08:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Gauge.jpg&amp;diff=8070</id>
		<title>File:Gauge.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Gauge.jpg&amp;diff=8070"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:07:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:FrankieScrew.jpg&amp;diff=8069</id>
		<title>File:FrankieScrew.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:FrankieScrew.jpg&amp;diff=8069"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:07:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:FanFT.jpg&amp;diff=8068</id>
		<title>File:FanFT.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:FanFT.jpg&amp;diff=8068"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:07:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:BanksyTOM.jpg&amp;diff=8067</id>
		<title>File:BanksyTOM.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:BanksyTOM.jpg&amp;diff=8067"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:06:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:BadSoldering.jpg&amp;diff=8066</id>
		<title>File:BadSoldering.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:BadSoldering.jpg&amp;diff=8066"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T18:06:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=WHO_Dunnit&amp;diff=8065</id>
		<title>WHO Dunnit</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=WHO_Dunnit&amp;diff=8065"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T16:08:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* Game-Specific Issues */ Who Dunnit reels&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally||     WPC-Security || 1995 || 50044 || 2,416&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[WHO Dunnit Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[WHO Dunnit Shop Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WPC Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game-Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
The stepper motors for the reels are a constant source of problems.  If they aren&#039;t spinning at all or feel &#039;gritty when turned by hand, remove the entire reel assembly from the playfield and remove the stepper motors.  Strip the motors, clean out all of the metal filings and rebuild.  If they still fail to spin inspect the IDC connector plug, as the wires may break and not be noticable.  Also check the LM339&#039;s on the reel control board.  Also note that the 3 reels are different, there should be a marking 1A, 2A or 3A by the overlap point on the reel itself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Sega/Stern_White_Star_Repair&amp;diff=8064</id>
		<title>Sega/Stern White Star Repair</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Sega/Stern_White_Star_Repair&amp;diff=8064"/>
		<updated>2012-07-03T14:09:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* Sound problems */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Click to go back to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball_Repair_Guides Data East/Sega/Stern pinball repair guides index].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern WS Boardset.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Typical Early Stern White Star Boardset]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Games==&lt;br /&gt;
===Sega===&lt;br /&gt;
*Apollo 13&lt;br /&gt;
*Goldeneye&lt;br /&gt;
*Twister&lt;br /&gt;
*Independence Day&lt;br /&gt;
*Space Jam&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Wars Trilogy&lt;br /&gt;
*The Lost World Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
*The X Files&lt;br /&gt;
*Starship Troopers&lt;br /&gt;
*Viper Night Driving&lt;br /&gt;
*Lost in Space&lt;br /&gt;
*Godzilla&lt;br /&gt;
*Harley-Davidson&lt;br /&gt;
*South Park&lt;br /&gt;
===Stern===&lt;br /&gt;
*Striker Xtreme&lt;br /&gt;
*Sharkey&#039;s Shootout&lt;br /&gt;
*High Roller Casino&lt;br /&gt;
*Austin Powers&lt;br /&gt;
*Monopoly&lt;br /&gt;
*NFL&lt;br /&gt;
*Playboy&lt;br /&gt;
*Roller Coaster Tycoon&lt;br /&gt;
*The Simpsons Pinball Party&lt;br /&gt;
*Terminator 3: Rise Of The Machines&lt;br /&gt;
*The Lord Of The Rings&lt;br /&gt;
*Ripley&#039;s Believe It Or Not&lt;br /&gt;
*Elvis&lt;br /&gt;
*Grand Prix&lt;br /&gt;
*The Sopranos&lt;br /&gt;
*NASCAR&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Technical Info==&lt;br /&gt;
===The White Star Board Set===&lt;br /&gt;
====CPU / Sound Board====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=500px heights=300px perrow=2 caption=&amp;quot;The two generations of the Sega/Stern WhiteStar MPU&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Stern WS CPU sound.JPG|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Stern White Star CPU/Sound Board 520-5136-16 (Monopoly)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SternWhiteStarAtmelProcessor.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Stern White Star (modified) CPU/Sound Board 520-5300-00 (LOTR and forward). U201, U213, and U413 are socketed on this board as a result of alkaline damage abatement.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two versions of the White Star CPU/Sound board. The board as used in Sega machines starting at Apollo 13 (A13) and Stern machines up to Terminator 3 (T3) are the standard version as shown above which is part #520-5136-16. Stern machines starting from Lord of the Rings (LOTR) used a different version of the White star CPU/Sound board called White Star modified, part #520-5300-00. Stern had this in-between version made because the BSMT2000 audio chip wasn&#039;t available anymore and having it reproduced was too expensive. The White Star modified therefore uses an BSMT2000 emulation circuit consisting of an Atmel AT91R40008 microcontroller and an Atmel AT49BV1614 16Mbit flash memory. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Note: &amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;Stern states that the board is backwards compatible with the standard version so it can be used in Sega White Star based games and White Star based games from Stern prior to LOTR as well. However, some sounds may not render correctly when using the Atmel based board with prior game software (StarShip Troopers for instance).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The BSMT2000 based White Star sound system is basically the same as the sound circuitry on Data East/Sega soundboards 5020-5050-0x, 5020-5077-00 and 5020-5126-02.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are some programmed TIBPAL16L8 PAL chips on the board. These are programmable logic chips. They have a colored dot on them so they can be distinguished. U213 is one of these chips and it&#039;s right in the battery corrosion area. It is readily available, already programmed under part number 965-6504-00 (blue dot), the only exceptions to that are Sharkey&#039;s shootout using part number 965-5023-00 (gold dot) and Lord of the Rings LE with a shaker motor installed using a different part number (the standard LOTR without a shaker motor uses the standard 965-6504-00 but the software version supporting the shaker motor will only run on the alternative U213).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two more PAL chips on the board at U19 (yellow dot, 965-0136-00) and U20 (white dot, 965-0137-00). These aren&#039;t needed very often for repairing sound boards but they do go bad now and then. Data retention for these programmable logic chips is generally specified at 20 years or more. The first Whitestar boards are from 1995 so from 2015 they start exceeding the data retention period and although big problems are not to be expected it wouldn&#039;t be unlikely when more of these start to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The programmable logic in the board design makes it harder to repair the boards because of the grey area it causes in the schematics as there aren&#039;t any logic diagrams of these available. In short; you don&#039;t know what they do so you don&#039;t know what the output should be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Blink Codes&amp;quot; do not exist for the 68B09E or the Atmel based MPU. With one exception (Atmel based board) anything blinking is a side-effect of improper board operation. The blinking may help you diagnose the actual board problem, but blinking LEDs are not driven with intent by the processors. i.e. There are no &amp;quot;Bally -17-like Blink Codes&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The single exception to this is LED1 on the Atmel based MPU. LED1 on this board will blink anywhere from 5 to 8 times to indicate the sound operating system version contained in the flash memory at U8. Stern has provided a good explanation within service bulletin [http://www.sternpinball.com/SB/ServiceBulletin_157.html 157]. This service bulletin also describes the process to update flash memory to a newer version of the sound operating system (which is not recommended unless you encounter sound issues after moving an MPU from one game to another).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joint_Test_Action_Group JTAG] (Joint Test Action Group) connectors available on the Atmel based board. One connects to the Xilinx [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Complex_programmable_logic_device CPLD] (Complex Programmable Logic Device). The other connects to the Atmel R40008 processor. The JTAG interfaces to this board and their use have not been documented publicly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for the 520-5136-16 board are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/CPU_Sound_Bd.pdf here] from Stern&#039;s website.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for the 520-5300-00 board are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/CPUSNDIIPCB520-5300-00new.pdf here] from Stern&#039;s website.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Power Driver Board====&lt;br /&gt;
Power, fuses, bridge rectifiers. GI relay, coil and flasher drivers.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
++ Need pic of the Sharkey&#039;s Shootout (Tournament Ed.) driver board inserted here +++&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern WS Driver.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Stern White Star I/O Power Driver Board]]&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for the 520-5137-01 board are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/IO_Power_Driver_Bd.pdf here] from Stern&#039;s website.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for the 520-5137-64 board (Sharkey&#039;s Shootout Tournament Edition only) are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/SharkeyIOPowerDriverBd.pdf here] from stern&#039;s website.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for the 520-5137-01 board (100 ohm resistors added on J2 aux. port lines) are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/IO_Power_Driver_BdNew.pdf here] from stern&#039;s website.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High current coils (50vdc) 1-8 (group 1) and 9-16 (group 2).  Q15 and Q16 typically drive the left and right flippers respectively.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Low current coils (20vdc) 17-24 (group 1) and 25-32 (group 2).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Controller Board====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sega 520-5055-01 DMD Control Board.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Sega White Star Display Controller Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern WS DMD Controller.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Stern White Star Display Controller Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for the 520-5055-00 DMD controller board (through hole components) are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/Display_Controller_Bd.pdf here] on Stern&#039;s website.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for the 237-0255-00 DMD controller board (primarily surface mount components) are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/Display_Controller_Bdnew.pdf here] on Stern&#039;s website.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Display Power Supply====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern WS DMD PSU.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Stern White Star Display Power Supply]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The output voltages of this board should be approximately:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Measured from GND on CN2 pin 4/5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-110V on CN2-1&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-98V on CN2-2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
+5V on CN2-6 (directly from the input on CN1-7)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
+12V on CN2-7 (+20V comes from CN1-6 and is regulated on +12V by VR1 (L7812CV)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
+68V on CN2-8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fuse type on the board: 0.75A SB&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Common failures:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fuse blowing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-110V missing or too low&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-98V missing or too low&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
+68V missing or too low&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Solutions:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A blowing fuse is often caused by a defect rectifier diode D1 or D2 (1N4004, can be replaced by 1N4007). When D1 was defect and replaced there&#039;s a big chance that Q1 and Q3 are defect as well. When D2 was defect and replaced often Q2, Q4 and Q5 are defect too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-120V problems are often caused by a defect transistor on Q2 (MPSA42) and/or Q4 (MJE15031) when one of the transistors is defect there&#039;s a big chance the other is defect as well. Replace zener diode D4 (3.9V), D6 (100V) and D7 (13V) as well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-100V problems are often caused by a defect transistor on Q5 (MJE15030) or zener diode D6 (100V), it&#039;s best to replace both. The 2k/5W resistor on R8 might also cause the problem, mostly because of bad solder contacts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
+60V problems are often caused by a defect transistor on Q3 (MJE15030) and/or Q1 (MPSA92) when one of the transistors is defect there&#039;s a big chance the other is defect as well. Replace zener diode D3 (3.9V) and D5 (68V) as well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics for the display power supply board are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/Display_Power_Supply_Bd.pdf here] from Stern&#039;s website.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====128 x 32 Dot Matrix Display====&lt;br /&gt;
All Sega or Stern White Star games make use of a 128 x 32 &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; dot matrix display.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Recommended Documentation===&lt;br /&gt;
As always, it is highly recommended to possess a game manual.  Every game manual is full of detailed information regarding game specific switch, lamp, and coil assignments.  Equally, details for maneuvering through test, audit, and bookkeeping screen menus, schematics for all boards used, and game specific mechanical assemblies are included.  Hard copy game manuals can be purchased through several of the recommended [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Parts_Suppliers pinball parts suppliers].  Some White Game manuals are available in PDF form on the Stern Pinball website [http://www.sternpinball.com/parts.shtml#2005 here].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Stern Pinball website currently archives theory of operation and board schematics in PDF format at the time of this writing.  Scroll down to the bottom of [http://www.sternpinball.com/schematics.shtml this page] to review the documents available.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Likewise, Stern Pinball keeps an online archive of service bulletins for Sega and Stern.  The service bulletins have some great material, and are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/ServiceBulletins.shtml here].&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Wire Coloring Code===&lt;br /&gt;
White Star games do not use color coding system. Instead, the wire color was marked accordingly in the associated documentation, (ie. a green wire with a brown trace is referred to as GRN-BRN, orange with violet is ORG-VIO, white is just WHT, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Dedicated Switches===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp Matrix===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Trough Opto Boards===&lt;br /&gt;
++++ Need pics of the single opto transmitter and receiver boards  ++++++&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern WS Trough Opto Transmitter.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Stern White Star Trough Opto Transmitter (Later Games)]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern WS Trough Opto Receiver.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Stern White Star Trough Opto Receiver (Later Games)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All White Star Games use trough opto boards at the location of the trough VUK which feeds the ball to the shooter lane.  Earlier White Star games, (Apollo 13 to Godzilla - need Godzilla confirmed) use only a single opto above the VUK plunger.  Later White Star games (Harley-Davidson to NASCAR / Grand Prix) use a two opto system.  The lower opto serves a dual purpose.  It is the opto just above the VUK plunger like earlier games, but is also designated as trough switch #4.  The upper opto is designated as the &amp;quot;stacking opto&amp;quot;.  Its purpose is to identify when a ball inadvertently gets &amp;quot;stacked&amp;quot; above a ball located at the VUK plunger.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To briefly summarize the operation of White Star VUK opto boards, if an object is blocking the light beam between the transmitter opto LED and the receiver opto LED, the CPU detects this as a switch closure. When an object is not present to break the light beam, the CPU detects this as an open switch. The components used on the opto receiver board are designed to do as such.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transmitter side is simply an ultra-red LED with a current limiting resistor. The receiving opto is the same style ultra-red LED, and is able to detect the light wavelength emitted from the transmitting LED. By using discrete components on the receiving side, the appropriate signal is sent to the CPU via the switch matrix return (row). When LEDs are paired together in this type of fashion, the receiving LED emits a very small amount of voltage, when the proper light wavelength is present. By employing such a design, failure on the receiver opto side is more common.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This particular system is contrary to how Bally / Williams WPC CPUs handle opto pairs. Equally, WPC games employ infrared (IR) opto switch pairs. If interested in learning the theory of operations for the White Star opto trough upkicker boards, please consult the manual. Sega / Stern have included some excellent, detailed, technical documentation within their manuals.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Schematics and troubleshooting info for the trough upkicker dual opto boards are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/Balltro.pdf here] from Stern&#039;s website.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Magnet Processor Board===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sega mag driver board.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Sega 520-5143-00 Magnet Processor Board]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Only two Sega games used this style of magnet processor board - Twister and Goldeneye.  The only difference between the board used on each game is the different custom PIC / GAL chip used at position U1 on the board.  When U1 for Twister is installed in the board, the board&#039;s part number is 520-5143-01.  The part number for the board when U1 is written for Goldeneye is 520-5143-02.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flippers===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern Flipper Assy.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Typical White Star Left Flipper Assembly (Monopoly)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
All Sega / Stern White Star flipper assemblies are solid state controlled.  Apollo 13 and Goldeneye are the only two White Star games which use a separate solid state flipper control board located in the game&#039;s lower cabinet.  Starting with Twister, the flipper board was abandoned, and circuitry to control the flippers was incorporated into the power driver board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the adjacent pic of the White Star flipper assembly has a Williams flipper link / plunger and coil stop installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===&lt;br /&gt;
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments.  All White Star based machines use a system called &amp;quot;Portals&amp;quot;.  The Portals interface is a carry over from the last two Sega games (Baywatch and Batman Forever) which used the Data East board set.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Portals====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern white star coin door inside.JPG|200px|thumb|left|The Portals control panel used on most White Star games (Monopoly)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Portals system has a very user friendly, simple navigation system.  Unlike previous Data East / Sega games, having to scroll through all of the audits and adjustments is a thing of the past.  Diagnostic testing (including game specific assembly tests), audits, and adjustments can all be quickly accessed via the initial display menu graphical interface.  The 3-button control panel (in most cases, except some earlier White Star games) used to access Portals is located on the coin door.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Setting Free Play=====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Coin Door Switches===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern coin door buttons.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Coin door Switches Located Inside a White Star Game (Monopoly)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Most White Star games have two switches located on a bracket inside the coin door (hinge side).  The upper switch is the memory protect switch.  This switch is used so that nothing can be written to the memory, unless the coin door is open.  The memory protect switch is not part of the switch matrix, nor is it one of the dedicated switches.  Although it does connect to the CPU / Sound board via the same connector as the dedicated switches, its state is processed by a different chip (U213) versus the dedicated switches (U206).&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The lower switch is an interlock style &amp;quot;kill&amp;quot; switch.  This kill switch is used to kill all power to the solenoids, when the coin door is opened.  Since it is an interlock style switch, it can either be depressed (when the coin door is closed), or it can be extended outward to turn the switch on. To extend the switch to the on position when the coin door is open, grasp the switch, and gently pull it out to the lock position.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Problems and Solutions==&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===MPU boot issues===&lt;br /&gt;
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====&lt;br /&gt;
==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====&lt;br /&gt;
Sega/Stern White Star boards are well known for issues with leaky batteries. This is because the Batteries are mounted on the top of the board - with plenty of board beneath it for the corrosion to affect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Remember - Battery Acid is an Alkali - it needs to be neutralised before fixing any damage that was caused. Most commonly used is vinegar, since it is an acid, however not a strong one and one that will adversely affect the surrounding areas of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ====&lt;br /&gt;
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing ====&lt;br /&gt;
===Low +5VDC and Game Resets===&lt;br /&gt;
The +5VDC for logic power is sourced from the 8VAC secondary windings on the transformer.  The 8VAC is fed to the I/O Power Driver Board, and rectified via bridge rectifier, BRDG21.  The rectified DC voltage is regulated via an LM338K adjustable voltage regulator.  Logic voltage can be adjusted via R116 on the driver board, which is a 50 ohm adjustment potentiometer.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
U413, which is located on the CPU / sound board next to the reset button, is a [http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/DS1232.pdf Dallas Maxim DS1232] monitoring chip.  In theory, should the logic voltage dip to less than 5% or +4.75VDC, the DS1232 will force a reset of the CPU.  However, it has been determined that most White Star board sets will not function properly below +4.85VDC.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the voltage on the power I/O driver board is below the +4.85VDC threshold, adjustment can be made via the R116 adjustment pot, until a satisfactory voltage is achieved.  The best location to measure the +5VDC is at the bottom leg of resistor R114.  R114 is located in the vicinity of the R116 adjustment pot, and just below the +5VDC LED, L2. If a satisfactory voltage cannot be achieved, turn the game off.  Remove connector J16, located above the LM338 regulator.  Turn the game back on, and measure the +5V again.  If a satisfactory voltage can be acquired with J16 disconnected, a board or component which uses the +5VDC is &amp;quot;dragging&amp;quot; it down.  Turn the game off, and remove all 5V input connectors on all other boards at this time.  Reconnect J16 again, and review the logic voltage on the I/O Power Driver board.  Repeat the process of turning off the game, and reinstalling logic power connectors one at a time to determine the suspect board.  Keep in mind that all opto switch receivers used throughout the game use the same +5VDC logic lines.  If no other boards in the backbox appear to be suspect, an opto transmitter board may be at fault.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Should the game start randomly resetting, the first course of action is to measure the +5VDC on the I/O Power Driver Board.   If the logic voltage is within spec., measure the +5VDC on the CPU / sound board.  The +5V test point on the CPU / sound board is located just to the left of the 6809EP CPU chip (U209) on the board.  If the voltage drastically differs between the measurement of the I/O Power Driver Board and the CPU / sound board, turn the game off.  Remove and reseat connections CN2 on the CPU / sound board and J16 on the I/O power driver board.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Game Resets with DMD Controller Board Connected====&lt;br /&gt;
This may be a bit of an anomaly, but it is worth mentioning.  If when the DMD controller board is connected without the data line ribbon cables, and the game continues to reset, replacement of BRDG21 may be required.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In one particular instance, a game was resetting continually with only the +5v / ground connection connected to the DMD controller board.  If the board was not connected, the driver board would output ~+5VDC.  If the DMD controller board was connected, the driver board&#039;s logic line would dip down to around +4.85VDC.  Logically speaking, this type of symptom somewhat points to the DMD controller board having issue.  However, the end result was replacement of BRDG21 per Stern tech support.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is worth mentioning that the bridge rectifier did test correctly (using a DMM in diode test) both in circuit and out of circuit, but these tests were conducted while the bridge was not under load. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Solenoid problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===Lamp problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===Switch problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Playfield Switch Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
The following Sega games employ unique playfield &amp;quot;Stand Up&amp;quot; targets:&lt;br /&gt;
*Goldeneye&lt;br /&gt;
*Twister&lt;br /&gt;
*Space Jam&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Wars Trilogy&lt;br /&gt;
*The Lost World Jurassic Park&lt;br /&gt;
*Starship Troopers&lt;br /&gt;
*Viper Night Drivin&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Lost in Space&lt;br /&gt;
*Godzilla&lt;br /&gt;
*Harley-Davidson&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
They are self-contained modular targets that are quite easy to remove or replace. The target &amp;quot;faces&amp;quot; may be purchased separately and may be interchanged easily. The unit has a self-contained diode, like all switches that are sensed via a switch matrix. It also contains a small micro-switch, that the &amp;quot;tail&amp;quot; of the target face actuates. The &amp;quot;Achilles Heel&amp;quot; of this target system is the IDC connector. As with all IDC connectors, the wires can pull out fairly easily.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=250px heights=200px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Sega Modular Targets (from Starship Troopers&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SegaTargetFullyAssembled.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;An example target. The target &amp;quot;faces&amp;quot; are interchangeable.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SegaTargetParts.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;quot;Exploded&amp;quot; target parts. The gray switch part must be oriented correctly. Note the integrated diode just under the micro-switch, center/bottom.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SegaTargetIDCConnector.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The Achilles Heel of a Sega target...the IDC connector.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SegaTargetDisassembly.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The first step to disassemble a target. Slide the rear face of the target assembly up.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SegaTargetTestingZero.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing a closed target switch, step 1. In diode test, with the switch closed, your meter should read 0 or null.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SegaTargetTestingDiodeDrop.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Testing a closed target switch, step 2. In diode test, with the switch closed, your meter should read .5 to .7, the nominal voltage drop across a diode.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Opto Switch Problems====&lt;br /&gt;
A little background regarding how White Star games handle opto switch pairs is necessary. With White Star games, opto switch pair closures are analyzed by the CPU in the same manner as leaf switch pairs or normally open (NO) microswitches.  In other words, when a leaf or NO microswitch closes, the end result is identified by the CPU as a valid switch closure.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, to briefly summarize the operation of White Star opto boards, if an object is blocking the light beam between the transmitter opto LED and the receiver opto LED, the CPU detects this as a switch closure. When an object is not present to break the light beam, the CPU detects this as an open switch. The components used on the opto receiver board are designed to do as such.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transmitter side is simply an ultra-red LED with a current limiting resistor. The receiver opto is an identical ultra-red LED. As the receiver LED, when light of the appropriate wavelength (from the transmitter) shines on the LED, a small amount of voltage is &amp;quot;excited&amp;quot; in the LED. By using discrete components on the receiver side, that small voltage is detected and the appropriate signal is sent to the CPU via the switch matrix return (row). By employing such a design, failure on the receiver opto side is more common.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=300px heights=150px perrow=3 caption=&amp;quot;Sega/Whitestar Transmitter, Receiver, and Opto &#039;Long Hop&#039; Board Pair, as found on Starship Troopers. Note that these ultra-red LEDs aren&#039;t red until power is applied.&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SegaOptoTransmitter.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The opto transmitter side.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SegaOptoReceiver.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;The opto receiver side, with accompanying electronics. The red colored LED is a diagnostic aid to indicate a detected switch closure.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SegaOptoAlignment.jpg|&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;An opto pair. The pair must be in perfect alignment or the opto switch will operate unreliably.&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This particular system is contrary to how Bally / Williams WPC CPUs handle opto pairs. Equally, WPC games employ infrared (IR) opto switch pairs. If interested in learning the theory of operations for the White Star opto trough upkicker boards, please consult the manual. Sega / Stern have included some excellent, detailed, technical documentation within their manuals. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb67.pdf Stern Service Bulletin #67] includes detailed theory of operation of these opto switches too.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====Two Balls Served, Continuous Balls Served to the Shooter Lane, or the Trough VUK Fires Repeatedly=====&lt;br /&gt;
Common problems with some White Star games are:&lt;br /&gt;
# Two balls are served to the shooter lane.&lt;br /&gt;
# Balls are continuously served to the shooter lane.&lt;br /&gt;
# The trough VUK repeatedly fires, when there are no balls above the VUK trough plunger.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the exact circumstances, and the era of the White Star game, one or two of these symptoms can occur. The crux of the problem is either one or both of the two trough LED opto transmitters or receivers is failing.  Rarely do the components on the trough opto boards other than the red LEDs actually fail though.  And in most cases, it is not the LED itself, although, there are some instances when the problem is a failing LED.  It is noteworthy that the issue is more common to the opto receiver side more so than the opto transmitter side.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern WS test trough 1 in trough.JPG|left|thumb|300px|A Stern Monopoly in &amp;quot;Clear Ball Trough&amp;quot; Mode Identifying One Ball in the Trough]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Stern WS test trough vuk up one ball.JPG|left|thumb|300px|A Stern Monopoly in &amp;quot;Clear Ball Trough&amp;quot; Mode Identifying One Ball in the Trough and One Ball Stacked]]&lt;br /&gt;
If the any of the previously mentioned symptoms are evident, the best approach is to first put the game into &amp;quot;Clear Ball Trough&amp;quot; mode via the Portal buttons on the coin door.  Consult the manual documentation for details how to enter this test.  Once all of the balls are removed from the trough, no balls should display on the DMD display.  If either of the two images shown to the left are displayed on the DMD, and the ball trough no longer has any balls present, there is a problem with either the transmitting or receiving opto boards.&amp;lt;br=clear all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing is to observe the two red opto LEDs on the transmitting board.  This board is located on the backside of the ball trough.  If the transmitting LEDs are lit, there probably is not a problem with them.  However, this is not always necessarily the case.  Secondly, inspect the opto LEDs on the receiving board.  To do this, the game will have to be turned off, and the receiving opto board removed via the three screws which attach it to the trough.  Look for hairline cracks around the .100&amp;quot; angled header pin solder joints.  Likewise, inspect the solder joints around the opto LEDs.  If cracks are evident in any of these locations, remove, and apply fresh solder to these connections.  Reinstall the receiver board, and observe the results.  Conversely, if hairline cracks are not found, or if the same symptoms are still evident after reflowing solder joints, replacement of the LED optos is suggested.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
White Star games initially used MT5000UR ultra-bright red LEDs, while later games used TLRH180P ultra-bright red LEDs for both the transmitter and receiver boards.  Both styles of LEDs have become expensive and fairly difficult to source.  Great Plains Electronics offers the [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&amp;amp;stext=MV8114&amp;amp;sprice=&amp;amp;stype=&amp;amp;scat= MV8114] as viable replacement for either original, factory LED.  The only caveat is that both the transmitter and receiver opto LEDs must be replaced in pairs to ensure proper function.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When replacing the opto LEDs, make certain the base of the LED is placed squarely on the PCB.  An LED which is poorly installed may result in sporadic switch closures.&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:DE Trough Ball Lock3.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Lock Ball Assembly (from Jurassic Park - used for illustrative purposes)]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that a &amp;quot;Lock Ball Assembly&amp;quot; was employed in the trough design on early White Star games.  The lock ball assembly is a unit, which was carried over from later Data East and early Sega games.  It consists of a coil mounted horizontally above the left side of the trough VUK.  This assembly was later removed presumably either due to cost factors, or so this coil assignment could be used as a playfield coil feature elsewhere instead. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a lock ball assembly is used in the game, and trough opto failure has occured, the symptom will more than likely be that the trough VUK will fire repeatedly without a ball present above the VUK plunger.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Display problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===Sound problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Basic operation (simplified) of the White Star CPU/Sound board audio part:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
The main CPU (U200) makes sound calls to the sound CPU (U6) which instructs the BSMT to play a certain sound. The BSMT fetches the required data (sound sample) from the ROM memory (U17-U21-U36-U37) and feeds the 16-bits wide parallel data to a conversion circuit which makes it serial data (shift register, U23-U24). The serial data is fed into a DAC (U26, Digital to Analogue Converter) that outputs to a pre-amplifier (U30, OPAMP). The output from the pre-amplifier is fed into the TDA2030A amplifiers at U101/U102 and sometimes U100 (some boards have 3 amplifiers, one for each speaker) and from there the audio signal goes to the speakers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sound section is quite reliable, the failure occuring most is a broken amplifier (TDA2030A).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Sound missing from one of the speakers:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Most likely a broken amplifier (TDA2030A)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;No sound at all:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Check the voltages on the board. On the DC input connector CN2 there should be approx. +12V DC between pin 2 (GND) and pin 6 (+12V) and -12V between pin 2 (GND) and pin 3 (-12V), these voltages come from the Power Supply Board. On the board itself are two voltage regulators to convert the +12V and -12V to +5V and -5V for the pre-amplifiers, check these voltages by measuring between the ground (GND, test point) and U30 pin 8 for +5V, U30 pin 4 for -5V.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other causes of no sound at all are the U7 game ROM being corrupted or improperly seated. You can re-seat this ROM and it often solves the issue. If any of the voice ROMs (U17, U21, U36, U37) are corrupted or improperly seated, the sound will still work but will be corrupted or have intermittent issues such as scratchy sounds or improper sounds at specific times. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, if you have no sound at all, you might also want to check that you have the correct sound board. Some operators may have swapped the 520-5300 with a 520-5136 board for the older series whitestar games. The 5300 board will work in all whitestar systems. The 5136 will work but will present no sound at all in all games newer than lord of the rings (2003).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Samples playing randomly&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
This happens on CPU boards that have the BSMT2000 emulation chip rather than the original (which Stern could not source cheaply enough at that time).  You need to update the emulation using the method in Stern service bulletin 157:&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.sternpinball.com/ROM_bootFLASH.html&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Loud hum/burnt speakers/12V DC coming out of the speaker connector&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
If you have a machine with all speakers dead, check for voltage on speaker wires.  If the -12V wire from the driver board to the CPU board is disconnected, it can cause 12V DC to be sent down the speaker line, causing a loud hum and fairly quickly destroying any speakers connected!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Adding a Second Backbox Speaker to Sega &amp;quot;Marquee&amp;quot; Backbox Games====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:SegaSecondBackBoxSpeaker.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Adding a second backbox speaker may improve the sound of Sega &amp;quot;Marquee&amp;quot; head games.]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A chap named Martin Riley submitted a nice article to the PinballNews explaining how to add a second backbox speaker to games like StarShip Trooper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The article can be found at http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/speaker/index.html&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Flipper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
===Pop bumper problems===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lord Of The Rings&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your Balrog stops registering hits, a little checking will sort it out. The mini microswitch with a roller arm used to register hits may need adjusting. Known past problems are a flaky or bad switch, and/or wiring. The Balrog moves in such a way that wires can break inside where you can&#039;t readily see them. It&#039;s easy to check the switch and wires with a meter. The wires push into an IDC connector nearby; be sure they are pushed in tight.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There isn&#039;t any adjustment for the micro switch, except for bending the blade with the mini-roller; try bending the blade outwards slightly.  According to the manual, sw #28 stays normally closed and then a Balrog hit opens the switch. This is not the normal target arrangement. So using the Balrog test mode in diagnostics, the switch should stay solidly closed, and then only open when Balrog is tilted forward.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The Shire and Gimli VUK switches.&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
These get hammered on LOTR and will eventually need replacing,  There isn&#039;t any easy solution other than replacing the flaky switch.  The tiny black screws on the Stern switches are 3/16&amp;quot;.  You will need a nut driver that size if you want to attempt replacement of the switches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Shire (and Gimli) VUK switch, are fork blade microswitches. Stern part number 180-5116-01. &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Spec on side of switch says Cherry .1A 125v E63.  Try parts4pinballs.com or your favorite Stern parts supplier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Shire VUK.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s easiest to remove the entire Bottom Left VUK coil and bracket from under the PF (playfield) to change the fork switch.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Take out the two largest bolts first, using a cross-head (phillips) screwdriver on the top and 11/32&amp;quot; nut runner (or socket) on the bottom.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Remove the metal VUK arch from the top of the playfield.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Remove the two lower wood screws (1/4&amp;quot; drive) leaving the one on the corner near the T-nut.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Supporting the Coil Bracket, remove the last 1/4&amp;quot; screw.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Unclip the connector from the coil and VUK.  Remove coil and bracket assembly.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Microswitch small screws are 3/16&amp;quot;.  As stated before, to remove the switch correctly you need a nut driver (or socket) that size.&lt;br /&gt;
You should be able to slide the heatshrink tubing all the way up the wires, solder on the new switch and then slide them back down in place. If not, use new heatshrink tubing. Assembly is above steps in reverse. Test in switch tests before replacing assembly and then by throwing a ball in the Shire  in attract mode one the assembly has been correctly replaced.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br clear=all&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repair Logs==&lt;br /&gt;
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Striker Xtreme:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Problem: Display is blacked out or only coming on for a few seconds before blanking out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cause: Resistors R6 and/or R7 on the display power supply board have gone bad (open or increased in value).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solution: Replace resistors R6 AND R7 on the display power supply board. Both are 330k @ 1/2 watt&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Where_To_Play&amp;diff=3015</id>
		<title>Where To Play</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Where_To_Play&amp;diff=3015"/>
		<updated>2011-05-22T23:27:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: add pinformer.co.uk&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Pinball locator databases are available here &lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.pinballrebel.com/locator/locationsearchform.php pinballrebel.com] and&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.sternpinball.com/Play.aspx sternpinball.com].  A pinball locator for the United Kingdom can be found at [http://www.pinformer.co.uk Pinformer]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Contributor (kcimming) NOTE: A lot of effort went into the above databases.  Originally they worked off a common source but I&#039;m not sure if that&#039;s still true.  Community discussion is needed as to how to complement those databases here without duplicate effort.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is where you can find places to play pinball.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Alabama==&lt;br /&gt;
==Alaska==&lt;br /&gt;
==Arizona==&lt;br /&gt;
==Arkansas==&lt;br /&gt;
==California==&lt;br /&gt;
==Colorado==&lt;br /&gt;
==Connecticut==&lt;br /&gt;
==Delaware==&lt;br /&gt;
==Florida==&lt;br /&gt;
==Georgia==&lt;br /&gt;
==Hawaii==&lt;br /&gt;
==Idaho==&lt;br /&gt;
==Illinois==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;CP Pinball&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;, 115 Sinclair Avenue, Roxana, IL&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;amp;nbsp;&amp;amp;nbsp;http://www.cppinball.com&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Indiana==&lt;br /&gt;
==Iowa==&lt;br /&gt;
==Kansas==&lt;br /&gt;
==Kentucky==&lt;br /&gt;
==Louisiana==&lt;br /&gt;
==Maine==&lt;br /&gt;
==Maryland==&lt;br /&gt;
;Crabtowne USA - Glen Burnie&lt;br /&gt;
:1500 Crain Hwy. 21060&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Machine&lt;br /&gt;
!Price To Play&lt;br /&gt;
!Overall Condition&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Police Force]]&lt;br /&gt;
|Unknown&lt;br /&gt;
|Unknown&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Road Kings]]&lt;br /&gt;
| 25 Cents&lt;br /&gt;
|Doesn&#039;t play all that well, very dirty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Black Knight 2000]]&lt;br /&gt;
|25 cents&lt;br /&gt;
|Normal wear on Magna-Save, hasn&#039;t been cleaned in years, plays alright&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[PinBot]]&lt;br /&gt;
|25 Cents&lt;br /&gt;
|Broken Spiral for skill shot, plays decent&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[The Addams Family]]&lt;br /&gt;
| 50 Cents&lt;br /&gt;
|Somewhat dirty, plays well&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|A bunch more, just added the first few to get this page started for others.&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Massachusetts==&lt;br /&gt;
==Michigan==&lt;br /&gt;
==Minnesota==&lt;br /&gt;
SS Billiards 732 11th Ave. So Hopkins. http://www.ssbilliards.com/&lt;br /&gt;
Home of LTG :), Pinball Circus, May Day Pinball Tournament, Launch Those Geese, Pinball Picnics, and a lot more exciting pinball events.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Mississippi==&lt;br /&gt;
==Missouri==&lt;br /&gt;
==Montana==&lt;br /&gt;
==Nebraska==&lt;br /&gt;
==Nevada==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Place&lt;br /&gt;
!Address&lt;br /&gt;
!Type of Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Machines&lt;br /&gt;
!Cost to Play&lt;br /&gt;
!More Info&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Hall of Fame&lt;br /&gt;
|1610 E. Tropicana, Las Vegas NV 89119&lt;br /&gt;
|Arcade/Musem&lt;br /&gt;
|Many (see [http://www.pinballmuseum.org/games.php game list])&lt;br /&gt;
|Varies&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pinballmuseum.org/ http://www.pinballmuseum.org/]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==New Hampshire==&lt;br /&gt;
==New Jersey==&lt;br /&gt;
==New Mexico==&lt;br /&gt;
==New York==&lt;br /&gt;
==North Carolina==&lt;br /&gt;
==North Dakota==&lt;br /&gt;
==Ohio==&lt;br /&gt;
==Oklahoma==&lt;br /&gt;
==Oregon==&lt;br /&gt;
==Pennsylvania==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Place&lt;br /&gt;
!Address&lt;br /&gt;
!Type of Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Machines&lt;br /&gt;
!Cost to Play&lt;br /&gt;
!More Info&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Pinball Gallery&lt;br /&gt;
|114 East Lancaster Ave., Downingtown, PA 19335&lt;br /&gt;
|Arcade/Retail Store&lt;br /&gt;
|~20 (see [http://www.pinballgallery.net/game-list/ game list])&lt;br /&gt;
|Varies (25-75c per play)&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://www.pinballgallery.net www.pinballgallery.net]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Rhode Island==&lt;br /&gt;
==South Carolina==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Place&lt;br /&gt;
!Address&lt;br /&gt;
!Type of Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Machines&lt;br /&gt;
!Cost to Play&lt;br /&gt;
!More Info&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Beach Club&lt;br /&gt;
|Seabrook Island, SC&lt;br /&gt;
|Arcade&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Demolition Man]], [[Austin Powers]]&lt;br /&gt;
|50c&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==South Dakota==&lt;br /&gt;
==Tennessee==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Place&lt;br /&gt;
!Address&lt;br /&gt;
!Type of Location&lt;br /&gt;
!Machines&lt;br /&gt;
!Cost to Play&lt;br /&gt;
!More Info&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Game Galaxy&lt;br /&gt;
|5252 Hickory Hollow Pkwy #2005, Antioch, TN  37013 (Hickory Hollow Mall)&lt;br /&gt;
|Arcade&lt;br /&gt;
|~20 (see [http://gamegalaxyarcade.com/arcade game list])&lt;br /&gt;
|50c per play&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://gamegalaxyarcade.com http://gamegalaxyarcade.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Texas==&lt;br /&gt;
==Utah==&lt;br /&gt;
==Vermont==&lt;br /&gt;
==Virginia==&lt;br /&gt;
==Washington==&lt;br /&gt;
==West Virginia==&lt;br /&gt;
==Wisconsin	==&lt;br /&gt;
==Wyoming==&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=User_talk:Chibler&amp;diff=1733</id>
		<title>User talk:Chibler</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=User_talk:Chibler&amp;diff=1733"/>
		<updated>2011-05-04T16:00:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* Is this how it works? */ new section&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;****TEST**** Yep, but it posts everywhere from what I can tell. jp&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Checking to see what happens when I &amp;quot;talk&amp;quot; to you.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Is this how it works? ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyway, wrt to HOWOTO formatting, I have no specific ideas about this.  I think we are constrained by the pinwiki formatting.  If you mean the actual seperation, I think there needs to be a &#039;general&#039; section (how to test coils, transistors) and then a platform specfic howto.  What we need to stay clear from is &#039;reinventing the wheel&#039;, where someone writes an article but doesn&#039;t notice someone else has already started a similar one.  To avoid this, I&#039;d suggest using the search box first to see if an article exists already.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1666</id>
		<title>Custom Made Pinball Tables</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1666"/>
		<updated>2011-05-03T22:03:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* John Popadiuk= */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
Outside of the major manufacturers, a few people have constructed their own pinball machines either from tables they have converted or completely from scratch.  Some were done to order (Aaron Spelling, Fun Time Frankie), whilst other were personal projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Conversions/Rethemes===&lt;br /&gt;
====Ramones Pinball====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb Genie converted to a [http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/ramones/index.html Ramones Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Aaron Spelling====&lt;br /&gt;
Lethal Weapon 3 converted by the factory for [http://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4339 Aaron Spelling]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bride of Pinbot====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.dutchpinball.com/ Bride of Pinbot] using the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC] interface board to provide a completely new game experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Metallica====&lt;br /&gt;
Earthshaker pin converted for [http://arstechnica.com/gaming/news/2009/10/metal-on-metal-behind-the-scenes-on-a-custom-pinball-game.ars Metallica].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Funtime Frankie====&lt;br /&gt;
Customised pinball table for UK celebrity [http://www.lfgss.com/thread39176.html Frank Skinner]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Chief Bank-a-flip Galactic Poker Dice====&lt;br /&gt;
A Williams &#039;Time Warp&#039; converted and reverse engineered by Duncan Brown.  Pictures [http://gamearchive.askey.org/Pinball/Custom/CBAFGPD/ here], mentioned in [http://www.pinrepair.com/topcast/showget.php?id=58 TOPcast #58]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Futurama====&lt;br /&gt;
Atari Superman converted to a [http://home.comcast.net/~special_when_lit/pwpimages/Futurama%20Pinball.html Futurama pinball table]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ritchie Rich====&lt;br /&gt;
Made for the film [http://www.pinballuniverse.com/rr.htm Ritchie Ritch] by Data East.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Machines===&lt;br /&gt;
====Forbidden Planet====&lt;br /&gt;
See the Pinball News review [http://www.pinballnews.com/shows/southcoastslam2011/index.html here]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coconut Island====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.users.on.net/~spaners/Coconut%20Island/index.html Coconut Island Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bill Paxton====&lt;br /&gt;
Ben Heck has been working on a [http://benheck.com/03-16-2010/bill-paxton-pinball machine based on Bill Paxton]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jeri Ellsworth====&lt;br /&gt;
Jeri Ellsworth has been working on a machine, some clips are available on her [http://www.youtube.com/user/jeriellsworth Youtube Channel]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====John Popadiuk====&lt;br /&gt;
John Popadiuk is taking a limited number of commissions for custom tables [http://zidware.com/pinballcustom.html Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Hardware and Software===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://social.pbos.info/ PBOS]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc FreeWPC]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Conversion Companies===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://personalpinball.com/ Personal Pinball Inc]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===External Links===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://xtcpinball.com/?p=59 Big list of custom projects]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1665</id>
		<title>Custom Made Pinball Tables</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1665"/>
		<updated>2011-05-03T22:03:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
Outside of the major manufacturers, a few people have constructed their own pinball machines either from tables they have converted or completely from scratch.  Some were done to order (Aaron Spelling, Fun Time Frankie), whilst other were personal projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Conversions/Rethemes===&lt;br /&gt;
====Ramones Pinball====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb Genie converted to a [http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/ramones/index.html Ramones Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Aaron Spelling====&lt;br /&gt;
Lethal Weapon 3 converted by the factory for [http://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4339 Aaron Spelling]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bride of Pinbot====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.dutchpinball.com/ Bride of Pinbot] using the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC] interface board to provide a completely new game experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Metallica====&lt;br /&gt;
Earthshaker pin converted for [http://arstechnica.com/gaming/news/2009/10/metal-on-metal-behind-the-scenes-on-a-custom-pinball-game.ars Metallica].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Funtime Frankie====&lt;br /&gt;
Customised pinball table for UK celebrity [http://www.lfgss.com/thread39176.html Frank Skinner]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Chief Bank-a-flip Galactic Poker Dice====&lt;br /&gt;
A Williams &#039;Time Warp&#039; converted and reverse engineered by Duncan Brown.  Pictures [http://gamearchive.askey.org/Pinball/Custom/CBAFGPD/ here], mentioned in [http://www.pinrepair.com/topcast/showget.php?id=58 TOPcast #58]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Futurama====&lt;br /&gt;
Atari Superman converted to a [http://home.comcast.net/~special_when_lit/pwpimages/Futurama%20Pinball.html Futurama pinball table]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ritchie Rich====&lt;br /&gt;
Made for the film [http://www.pinballuniverse.com/rr.htm Ritchie Ritch] by Data East.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Machines===&lt;br /&gt;
====Forbidden Planet====&lt;br /&gt;
See the Pinball News review [http://www.pinballnews.com/shows/southcoastslam2011/index.html here]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coconut Island====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.users.on.net/~spaners/Coconut%20Island/index.html Coconut Island Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bill Paxton====&lt;br /&gt;
Ben Heck has been working on a [http://benheck.com/03-16-2010/bill-paxton-pinball machine based on Bill Paxton]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jeri Ellsworth====&lt;br /&gt;
Jeri Ellsworth has been working on a machine, some clips are available on her [http://www.youtube.com/user/jeriellsworth Youtube Channel]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====John Popadiuk=====&lt;br /&gt;
John Popadiuk is taking a limited number of commissions for custom tables [http://zidware.com/pinballcustom.html Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Hardware and Software===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://social.pbos.info/ PBOS]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc FreeWPC]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Conversion Companies===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://personalpinball.com/ Personal Pinball Inc]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===External Links===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://xtcpinball.com/?p=59 Big list of custom projects]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1551</id>
		<title>Custom Made Pinball Tables</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1551"/>
		<updated>2011-05-02T14:11:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
Outside of the major manufacturers, a few people have constructed their own pinball machines either from tables they have converted or completely from scratch.  Some were done to order (Aaron Spelling, Fun Time Frankie), whilst other were personal projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Conversions/Rethemes===&lt;br /&gt;
====Ramones Pinball====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb Genie converted to a [http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/ramones/index.html Ramones Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Aaron Spelling====&lt;br /&gt;
Lethal Weapon 3 converted by the factory for [http://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4339 Aaron Spelling]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bride of Pinbot====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.dutchpinball.com/ Bride of Pinbot] using the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC] interface board to provide a completely new game experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Metallica====&lt;br /&gt;
Earthshaker pin converted for [http://arstechnica.com/gaming/news/2009/10/metal-on-metal-behind-the-scenes-on-a-custom-pinball-game.ars Metallica].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Funtime Frankie====&lt;br /&gt;
Customised pinball table for UK celebrity [http://www.lfgss.com/thread39176.html Frank Skinner]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Chief Bank-a-flip Galactic Poker Dice====&lt;br /&gt;
A Williams &#039;Time Warp&#039; converted and reverse engineered by Duncan Brown.  Pictures [http://gamearchive.askey.org/Pinball/Custom/CBAFGPD/ here], mentioned in [http://www.pinrepair.com/topcast/showget.php?id=58 TOPcast #58]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Futurama====&lt;br /&gt;
Atari Superman converted to a [http://home.comcast.net/~special_when_lit/pwpimages/Futurama%20Pinball.html Futurama pinball table]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ritchie Rich====&lt;br /&gt;
Made for the film [http://www.pinballuniverse.com/rr.htm Ritchie Ritch] by Data East.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Machines===&lt;br /&gt;
====Forbidden Planet====&lt;br /&gt;
See the Pinball News review [http://www.pinballnews.com/shows/southcoastslam2011/index.html here]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coconut Island====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.users.on.net/~spaners/Coconut%20Island/index.html Coconut Island Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bill Paxton====&lt;br /&gt;
Ben Heck has been working on a [http://benheck.com/03-16-2010/bill-paxton-pinball machine based on Bill Paxton]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jeri Ellsworth====&lt;br /&gt;
Jeri Ellsworth has been working on a machine, some clips are available on her [http://www.youtube.com/user/jeriellsworth Youtube Channel]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Hardware and Software===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://social.pbos.info/ PBOS]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc FreeWPC]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Conversion Companies===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://personalpinball.com/ Personal Pinball Inc]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===External Links===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://xtcpinball.com/?p=59 Big list of custom projects]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1549</id>
		<title>Custom Made Pinball Tables</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1549"/>
		<updated>2011-05-02T14:08:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* Conversions/Rethemes */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
Outside of the major manufacturers, a few people have constructed their own pinball machines either from tables they have converted or completely from scratch.  Some were done to order (Aaron Spelling, Fun Time Frankie), whilst other were personal projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Conversions/Rethemes===&lt;br /&gt;
====Ramones Pinball====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb Genie converted to a [http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/ramones/index.html Ramones Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Aaron Spelling====&lt;br /&gt;
Lethal Weapon 3 converted by the factory for [http://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4339 Aaron Spelling]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bride of Pinbot====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.dutchpinball.com/ Bride of Pinbot] using the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC] interface board to provide a completely new game experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Metallica====&lt;br /&gt;
Earthshaker pin converted for [http://arstechnica.com/gaming/news/2009/10/metal-on-metal-behind-the-scenes-on-a-custom-pinball-game.ars Metallica].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Funtime Frankie====&lt;br /&gt;
Customised pinball table for UK celebrity [http://www.lfgss.com/thread39176.html Frank Skinner]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Chief Bank-a-flip Galactic Poker Dice====&lt;br /&gt;
A Williams &#039;Time Warp&#039; converted and reverse engineered by Duncan Brown.  Pictures [http://gamearchive.askey.org/Pinball/Custom/CBAFGPD/ here], mentioned in [http://www.pinrepair.com/topcast/showget.php?id=58 TOPcast #58]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Futurama====&lt;br /&gt;
Atari Superman converted to a [http://home.comcast.net/~special_when_lit/pwpimages/Futurama%20Pinball.html Futurama pinball table]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Ritchie Rich====&lt;br /&gt;
Made for the film [http://www.pinballuniverse.com/rr.htm Ritchie Ritch] by Data East.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Conversion Companies===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://personalpinball.com/ Personal Pinball Inc]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Machines===&lt;br /&gt;
====Forbidden Planet====&lt;br /&gt;
See the Pinball News review [http://www.pinballnews.com/shows/southcoastslam2011/index.html here]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coconut Island====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.users.on.net/~spaners/Coconut%20Island/index.html Coconut Island Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bill Paxton====&lt;br /&gt;
Ben Heck has been working on a [http://benheck.com/03-16-2010/bill-paxton-pinball machine based on Bill Paxton]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jeri Ellsworth====&lt;br /&gt;
Jeri Ellsworth has been working on a machine, some clips are available on her [http://www.youtube.com/user/jeriellsworth Youtube Channel]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Hardware and Software===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://social.pbos.info/ PBOS]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc FreeWPC]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1543</id>
		<title>Custom Made Pinball Tables</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1543"/>
		<updated>2011-05-02T13:49:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* Custom Made Pinball Tables */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Introduction==&lt;br /&gt;
Outside of the major manufacturers, a few people have constructed their own pinball machines either from tables they have converted or completely from scratch.  Some were done to order (Aaron Spelling, Fun Time Frankie), whilst other were personal projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Conversions/Rethemes===&lt;br /&gt;
====Ramones Pinball====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb Genie converted to a [http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/ramones/index.html Ramones Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Aaron Spelling====&lt;br /&gt;
Lethal Weapon 3 converted by the factory for [http://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4339 Aaron Spelling]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bride of Pinbot====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.dutchpinball.com/ Bride of Pinbot] using the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC] interface board to provide a completely new game experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Metallica====&lt;br /&gt;
Earthshaker pin converted for [http://arstechnica.com/gaming/news/2009/10/metal-on-metal-behind-the-scenes-on-a-custom-pinball-game.ars Metallica].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Funtime Frankie====&lt;br /&gt;
Customised pinball table for UK celebrity [http://www.lfgss.com/thread39176.html Frank Skinner]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Chief Bank-a-flip Galactic Poker Dice====&lt;br /&gt;
A Williams &#039;Time Warp&#039; converted and reverse engineered by Duncan Brown.  Pictures [http://gamearchive.askey.org/Pinball/Custom/CBAFGPD/ here], mentioned in [http://www.pinrepair.com/topcast/showget.php?id=58 TOPcast #58]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Machines===&lt;br /&gt;
====Forbidden Planet====&lt;br /&gt;
See the Pinball News review [http://www.pinballnews.com/shows/southcoastslam2011/index.html here]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coconut Island====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.users.on.net/~spaners/Coconut%20Island/index.html Coconut Island Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bill Paxton====&lt;br /&gt;
Ben Heck has been working on a [http://benheck.com/03-16-2010/bill-paxton-pinball machine based on Bill Paxton]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jeri Ellsworth====&lt;br /&gt;
Jeri Ellsworth has been working on a machine, some clips are available on her [http://www.youtube.com/user/jeriellsworth Youtube Channel]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Hardware and Software===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://social.pbos.info/ PBOS]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc FreeWPC]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1542</id>
		<title>Custom Made Pinball Tables</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Custom_Made_Pinball_Tables&amp;diff=1542"/>
		<updated>2011-05-02T13:44:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: Created page with &amp;quot;==Custom Made Pinball Tables== Outside of the major manufacturers, a few people have constructed their own pinball machines either from tables they have converted or completely f...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Custom Made Pinball Tables==&lt;br /&gt;
Outside of the major manufacturers, a few people have constructed their own pinball machines either from tables they have converted or completely from scratch.  Some were done to order (Aaron Spelling, Fun Time Frankie), whilst other were personal projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Conversions/Rethemes===&lt;br /&gt;
====Ramones Pinball====&lt;br /&gt;
Gottlieb Genie converted to a [http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/ramones/index.html Ramones Pinball].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Aaron Spelling====&lt;br /&gt;
Lethal Weapon 3 converted by the factory for [http://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4339 Aaron Spelling]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bride of Pinbot====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.dutchpinball.com/ Bride of Pinbot] using the [http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC] interface board to provide a completely new game experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Metallica====&lt;br /&gt;
Earthshaker pin converted for [http://arstechnica.com/gaming/news/2009/10/metal-on-metal-behind-the-scenes-on-a-custom-pinball-game.ars Metallica].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Machines===&lt;br /&gt;
====Forbidden Planet====&lt;br /&gt;
See the Pinball News review [http://www.pinballnews.com/shows/southcoastslam2011/index.html here]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Coconut Island====&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.users.on.net/~spaners/Coconut%20Island/index.html Coconut Island Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Bill Paxton====&lt;br /&gt;
Ben Heck has been working on a [http://benheck.com/03-16-2010/bill-paxton-pinball machine based on Bill Paxton]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Jeri Ellsworth====&lt;br /&gt;
Jeri Ellsworth has been working on a machine, some clips are available on her [http://www.youtube.com/user/jeriellsworth Youtube Channel]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Custom Hardware and Software===&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/ P-ROC]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://social.pbos.info/ PBOS]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc FreeWPC]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_Pinball_Machine_Worth%3F&amp;diff=1541</id>
		<title>What is a Pinball Machine Worth?</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_Pinball_Machine_Worth%3F&amp;diff=1541"/>
		<updated>2011-05-02T13:27:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Prices==&lt;br /&gt;
The value of a pinball machine is a highly subjective topic. A totally restored Medieval Madness might sell to a serious collector for well in excess of $10,000. A pinball dealer might offer $5000 for the same machine a week later. A tire-kicker might offer $3000 because the machine is &amp;quot;not original&amp;quot; and so on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pinball price is dependent on a variety of factors, such as desirability, availability, location and condition. Guides are available that track the price on an annual basis and sites like [http://www.pinpedia.com/prices Pinpedia] list past auction prices.  Unfortunately &#039;shilling&#039; and other nefarious practices can happen on online auction sites, so take the results with a pinch of salt.  Just because a machine has a &#039;Buy it not&#039; for $3k doesn&#039;t mean it will sell for $3k.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A dirty machine, without serious damage, can take 40 hours to clean up and $400 in plastics, rubbers, lamps and materials. Add another $200 for legs, door and trim. Playfield swaps add another 40 hours and $600 - $900 for the playfield. And cabinet decals are another 20 hours plus $300 for the decals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, too often it seems people will &#039;discover&#039; an old beat up machine in the back of their garage and assume as they just saw an Addams Family on eBay with a &#039;Buy it now&#039; of $6k, then their pinball machine is worth at least at much.  It can be hard trying to explain to people like this the reality of the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rarity does not necessarily mean a higher price.  Pinball machines were built to be put on location and make money.  If a game was popular with the public, they put more money in them, meaning the operators bought more machines.  If a table wasn&#039;t popular, not many were bought by the operators and thus not many were made.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is self evident with &#039;Addams Family&#039;, a well regarded table and the highest production run of the modern pinball era.  This machine can still command a high price even though there were 21,000 of them, whereas a similar machine of the same era like Hurricane with only a few thousand made can be found quite cheaply in comparison.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are exceptions to this rule, like prototype machines and limited runs like Big Bang Bar and LOTR:Gold.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Broadly speaking, pinball machines price out into several groups. Each group has a high and low section.  This list is only an example, as mentioned above there are many factors that can affect the price.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Exceptions===&lt;br /&gt;
Pinball machines that can exceed $10,000.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Big Bang Bar]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Medieval Madness]] (premium restoration)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Cactus Canyon]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; List===&lt;br /&gt;
$4000 and up&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Medieval Madness]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Monster Bash]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Black [[Spider-Man]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The &amp;quot;B&amp;quot; List===&lt;br /&gt;
$3000 - $4000&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Attack from Mars]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Circus Voltaire]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Safecracker]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Lord of the Rings]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Spider-Man]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Theatre of Magic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Simpsons&#039; Pinball Party]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Twilight Zone]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; List===&lt;br /&gt;
$2000 - $3000&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Whitewater]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; List===&lt;br /&gt;
Under $2,000 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Demolition Man]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Johnny Mnemonic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Judge Dredd]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Resale value==&lt;br /&gt;
In general, if the machine is well looked after you tend not to lose money when the time comes to sell it on.  They can take a while to sell, depending on what price you set and current market conditions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Aftermarket Modifications==&lt;br /&gt;
Some people prefer completely original machines, while others like to fit various modifications to the table.  These can vastly affect the price depending on which mods have been fitted, some people pay more for original unmolested tables, whereas others will pay extra for a table that has been fitted with after market modifications.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_Pinball_Machine_Worth%3F&amp;diff=1524</id>
		<title>What is a Pinball Machine Worth?</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=What_is_a_Pinball_Machine_Worth%3F&amp;diff=1524"/>
		<updated>2011-05-02T03:57:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The value of a pinball machine is a highly subjective subject. A totally restored Medieval Madness might sell to a serious collector for well in excess of $10,000. A pinball dealer might offer $5000 for the same machine a week later. A tire-kicker might offer $3000 because the machine is &amp;quot;not original&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So pinball price is dependent on desirability, availability, and condition. Guides are available that track the price on an annual basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A dirty machine, without serious damage, can take 40 hours to clean up and $400 in plastics, rubbers, lamps and materials. Add another $200 for legs, door and trim. Playfield swaps add another 40 hours and $600 - $900 for the playfield. And cabinet decals are another 20 hours plus $300 for the decals.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Broadly speaking, pinball machines price out into several groups. Each group has a high and low section. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Exceptions&#039;&#039;&#039; - pinball machines that can exceed $10,000.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Big Bang Bar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Medieval Madness, premium restoration&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cactus Canyon&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; List&#039;&#039;&#039; - $4000 and up&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Medieval Madness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Monster Bash&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Black Spider-Man&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The &amp;quot;B&amp;quot; List&#039;&#039;&#039; - $3000 - $4000&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Attack from Mars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cirqus Voltaire&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Safecracker&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lord of the Rings&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Spider-Man&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Theater of Magic&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Simpsons&#039; Pinball Party&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Twilight Zone&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; List&#039;&#039;&#039; - $2000 - $3000&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Creature from the Black Lagoon&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Star Trek: The Next Generation&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Whitewater&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; List&#039;&#039;&#039; - Under $2,000 - great value machines&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demolition Man&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Johnny Mnemonic&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Judge Dredd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Checking auction sites and wanted ads&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
Completed auctions on sites like pinpedia.com and ebay can give a *rough* indication of a machines current value.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Resale value&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
In general, if the machine is well looked after you tend not to lose too much money when the time comes to sell it on.  They can take a while to sell, due to the dwindling popularity of the hobby.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Machine:_Bride_of_Pin*Bot&amp;diff=1460</id>
		<title>The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Machine:_Bride_of_Pin*Bot&amp;diff=1460"/>
		<updated>2011-05-01T22:55:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* Game-Specific Issues */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally   ||     WPC-Alphanumic || 1991 ||  50002  || 8,100  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot Shop Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WPC Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game-Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Head only turns one way===&lt;br /&gt;
Check the motor relay board underneath the playfield.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Backbox flashes cause head to turn===&lt;br /&gt;
In very rare circumstances, a leak happens across the flasher circuit and causes the motor to spin whenever the backbox flashers operate.  The &#039;cure&#039; was to remove the backbox flasher bulbs....&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Addams_Family&amp;diff=1459</id>
		<title>The Addams Family</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Addams_Family&amp;diff=1459"/>
		<updated>2011-05-01T22:53:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally ||     WPC-DND || 1992 ||  20017 || 20,270&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Addams Family Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Addams Family Shop Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=20 IPDB Link (including software and schematics)]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WPC Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game-Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Power magnets===&lt;br /&gt;
If the driver transistor fails and shorts on, these magnets may get turned on all the time and burn the playfield.  Make sure the correct fuses are fitted.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Addams_Family&amp;diff=1458</id>
		<title>The Addams Family</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Addams_Family&amp;diff=1458"/>
		<updated>2011-05-01T22:52:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally ||     WPC-DND || 1992 ||  20017 || 20,270|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Addams Family Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Addams Family Shop Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=20 IPDB Link (including software and schematics)]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WPC Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game-Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Power magnets===&lt;br /&gt;
If the driver transistor fails and shorts on, these magnets may get turned on all the time and burn the playfield.  Make sure the correct fuses are fitted.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Funhouse&amp;diff=1457</id>
		<title>Funhouse</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Funhouse&amp;diff=1457"/>
		<updated>2011-05-01T22:48:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* WPC Specific Issues */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally   ||     WPC-Alphanumic || 1989 ||  50003  || 10,750  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Funhouse Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Funhouse Shop Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WPC Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game-Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Servicing Rudy&#039;s Head]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Funhouse faces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;P&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Harley-Davidson&amp;diff=1456</id>
		<title>Harley-Davidson</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Harley-Davidson&amp;diff=1456"/>
		<updated>2011-05-01T22:48:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* WPC Specific Issues */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally   ||     WPC-Alphanumic || 1989 ||  20001  || ?  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Harley-Davidson Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Harley-Davidson Shop Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WPC Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game-Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that Harley-Davidson faces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Machine:_Bride_of_Pin*Bot&amp;diff=1455</id>
		<title>The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Machine:_Bride_of_Pin*Bot&amp;diff=1455"/>
		<updated>2011-05-01T22:48:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Sonny Jim: /* WPC Specific Issues */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{WIP}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Bally   ||     WPC-Alphanumic || 1991 ||  50002  || 8,100  &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot Shop Guide]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WPC Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [[WPC Specific Issues]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game-Specific Issues ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Click on the links to learn about the more complex problems that The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot faces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;P&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Sonny Jim</name></author>
	</entry>
</feed>