PinWiki - User contributions [en]

Data East/Sega

2013-02-01T23:08:30Z

Williams: Added 'Open the Door' fixes

Click to go back to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball_Repair_Guides Data East/Sega/Stern pinball repair guides index].

==Introduction==
[[Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board

The first two games, Laser War and Secret Service, did not use a PPB board, and were equipped with a flipper power supply (very similar to the Williams System 7, 9, & early 11 flipper power supply). Secret Service used an MRB-1 (Mega Resistor Board) which was mounted to the back of the body of the cabinet. 
There can also be two additional boards, not including satellite boards which were used such as a shaker motor driver board, a magnet control board, etc.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This board is located on the left side of the lower cabinet. Games which have more than three flippers, Baywatch and others, use two flipper control boards.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays. DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes

|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|Not used
|2x 7 digit A/N, 2x 7 digit N, 1x 4 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Uses 520-5001-00 Flipper Power Supply

|-
|[[Secret_Service|Secret Service (2/88)]]
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|Not used (see notes)
|2x 7 digit A/N, 2x 7 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Uses 520-5001-00 Flipper Power Supply and 520-5015-00 MRB-1 (Mega Resistor Board)

|-
|[[Torpedo_Alley|Torpedo Alley (8/88)]]
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|2x 7 digit A/N, 2x 7 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|

|-
|[[Time_Machine|Time Machine (11/88)]]
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|2x 7 digit A/N, 2x 7 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|

|-
|[[Playboy_35th_Anniversary|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)]]
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|

|-
|[[Monday_Night_Football|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)]]
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|

|-
|[[Robocop|Robocop (01/90)]]
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|

|-
|[[Phantom_of_the_Opera|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)]]
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|

|-
|[[Back_to_the_Future|Back to the Future (6/90)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|

|-
|[[The_Simpsons|The Simpsons (10/90)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|

|-
|[[Checkpoint|Checkpoint (2/91)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display

|-
|[[Teenage_Mutant_Ninja_Turtles|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|

|-
|[[Batman|Batman (8/91)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|

|-
|[[Star_Trek_25th_Anniversary|Star Trek 25th Anniversary (9/91)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|

|-
|[[Hook|Hook (5/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|

|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display

|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|

|-
|[[Rocky_&_Bullwinkle|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|

|-
|[[Jurassic_Park|Jurassic Park (6/93)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield 
Uses a shaker motor

|-
|[[Last_Action_Hero|Last Action Hero (10/93)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|Uses a 520-5068-00 magnet control board 
Uses a shaker motor

|-
|[[Tales_from_the_Crypt|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|520-5033-03
|Uses a shaker motor

|-
|[[The_Who's_Tommy |The Who's Tommy (1/94)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|520-5076-03
|Uses a servo motor board for the blinders 
Uses a shaker motor
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|520-5080-00 (2 used)
|

|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
||Uses a 520-5068-00 magnet control board 

|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|520-5076-00
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display

|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|

|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|520-5080-00 (2 used)
|

|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
===The Data East Board Set===
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing. 

===Recommended Documentation===
Although it is not completely necessary to fix a Data East or Sega pinball machine, having a game specific manual can be extremely helpful, and is recommended. The game manual includes detailed information such as:

*Lamp matrix mapping and location
*Switch matrix mapping and location
*Coil and flasher lamp mapping and location
*Game rules
*Unique playfield parts list including a rubber ring list and locator
*Game specific wiring connections, lamp, and coil diagrams
*Circuit board schematics
*CPU, display, and sound ROM locations
*Circuit board jumper settings
*CPU version compatibility amongst current and previous games
*Diagnostic and troubleshooting information
*Theory of operation of some specific boards

In addition to the game's service manual, Stern Pinball keeps an online archive of service bulletins for Data East and Sega. The service bulletins have some great material, and are available [http://www.sternpinball.com/ServiceBulletins.shtml here]. 

===The Wiring Color Code===
Data East / Sega never adopted a color coding system. Instead, the wire color was marked accordingly in the associated documentation, (ie. a white wire with a blue trace is referred to as WHT-BLU, yellow with red is YEL-RED, black is just BLK, etc.).
 

===Connector Designations===
Data East / Sega did not use a board numbering system to any of the specific boards used in a game. In other words, documentation referred to boards as the following:
*PS = Power Supply
*CPU = CPU
*PPB = Playfield Power Board
*Sound = Sound Board

The naming convention for the connector on each board is notated as CNxx followed by a consecutive number, starting with "1" (ie. CN1, CN2. . .CN10, etc.).

According to the Data East Star Trek 25th Anniversary Pinball schematics/manual pp44; there are two connectors which do not follow the CNxx designation. These are 2F1 and 2F2 which connect to the main transformer (secondary side) at the bottom of the cabinet.
====Burned Connectors====
There are several connectors which are known to go bad after 10s of years of repeated thermal cycling of the system. The connectors become fragile; connector resistance goes up and the pins either heat up and/or melt it's housing. These connectors become an intermittant issue which can cause unexpected malfunctions which are difficult to troubleshoot. Author's Star trek machine gave intermittent incorrect sound effects and display resets.

Check the secondary transformer side connector; 2F2 which is located at the bottom of the cabinet and contains 2 sets of 6.3VAC GI illumination circuits. An example of a burned connector:
[[File:DE_CN_2F2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Burnt 2F2 Connector]]

If this connector looks charred or looks like it got hot; replace it. At this time; a direct replacement for the connector is not known; however, A functional replacement can be purchased from Digikey under the following part numbers:

DigkeyPN MFG MFG PN ''Description'' 
[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=A1453-ND A1453-ND] TE Connectivity 1-480703-0 ''CONN Cap 4POS 94V-2 UNI-MATE (female)'' 
[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=A1452-ND A1452-ND] TE Connectivity 1-480702-0 ''CONN Plug 4POS 94V-2 UNI-MATE (male)'' 
[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=A25375-ND A25375-ND] TE Connectivity 350551-3 ''CONN Socket 14-20AWG TIN Crimp'' 
[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=A25375-ND A25375-ND] TE Connectivity 350551-3 ''CONN Socket 14-20AWG TIN Crimp'' 

You'll need 1 of each of the first two, and there is a minimum buy of 10ea of the last two of which you'll need 4ea.

 
[[File:DE_CN1_PPB.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A toasty "wafer" used at connector CN1]]
Check CN1 on the Power Supply (PS). A bad connector is shown on the right. Remove the connector. Check to ensure the rounded PCB pins are not blackened with oxidation. If the connector feels loose, it's time to replace it. An exact replacement is available. Molex part number 09-18-5121 can be acquired from Mouser.com as [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-18-5121?qs=8D5JSrTcX2r4uVBkcKnbKA%3d%3d 538-09-18-5121] ''Pin & Socket Connectors PCB MIXTERM 12P''.

 

===Switch Matrix===

Data East uses an 8x8 switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches (only games which use [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Reflexive_Versus_Non-Reflexive_CPU_Boards reflexive CPU boards]). A general discussion of the switch matrix can be viewed [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#The_Switch_Matrix here].

===Power Supply===
Data East made several revisions to their power supplies during production to support different displays and flipper combinations. 

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00
:This power supply was used on the six games (Checkpoint to Hook) which used the smaller 128 x 16 DMD. One thing which makes it stand out at a glance are two large 10W power resistors installed on the unit. Other things which make it different from the power supply used with a "standard" 128 x 32 DMD are:
:*The use of MJE340 and MJE350 high voltage transistors versus MJE15030 and MJE15031 transistors.

*520-5047-01
:Rev A and B High Voltage section:
:*Has no resistor R17
:*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4764 and is tied to ground
:*Zener diode D11 is a 1N4743
:*Connector CN7 has three pins for unregulated 12 volts

:Rev C of the -01 board has the same changes to the high voltage section as the -02 version below.

[[File:DEPowerSupply.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Data East 520-5047-02 Power Supply]] 
520-5047-02
:Differences from the high voltage section of 520-5047-01 Revision A and B:
:*Has a resistor at R17
:*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4743
:*The Zener diode at D11 is a 1N4764 tied to ground
:*Connector CN7 has five pins for unregulated 12 volts vs. the -01 version having three pins.

:The -02 power supply is backwards compatible to machines that use the -01 power supply.
 

*520-5047-03

===CPU Board===
*520-5003-01 (Version 1) - '''Reflexive'''
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Data East 520-5003-01 CPU Board]]
 

*520-5003-02 (Version 2) - '''Reflexive'''
[[File:De_cpu_520-5003-02.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Data East 520-5003-02 CPU Board from Time Machine]]
 

*520-5003-03 (Version 3) - '''Non-Reflexive'''
[[File:De cpu 520-5003-04.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Data East 520-5003-03 CPU Board from Jurassic Park (note -04 label from factory)]]
 

====Reflexive Versus Non-Reflexive CPU Boards====
Version 1 and 2 Data East CPU boards are reflexive. Simply stated, reflexive CPU boards are boards where the 6 special coil drive transistors were enabled by a special coil switch input. These coils were typically pop bumpers and slingshots. Each assembly had its own switch, which was not part of the switch matrix, and was responsible for enabling its associated coil when closed. This implementation is almost identical to Williams System 11 Special Solenoids. 

Version 3 boards are non-reflexive. Non-reflexive boards use 6 special coil drive transistors, however, the switches responsible for enabling these coils are part of the switch matrix. 

Version 3, non-reflexive boards are backwards compatible, and can be used in a game which would typically use a version 2 board. Conversely, version 2 reflexive boards are '''not''' forward compatible in games which use a version 3 board. 
 

===Playfield Power Board (PPB-1)===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

[[File:DE PPB-1 520-5021-05.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5021-05 PPB-1 Board]] 
*520-5021-05 

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03
[[File:DE 520-5002-03 Stereo Sound.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5002-03 Sound Board]] 

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

[[File:DE 520-5050-00 Sound.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5050-00 Sound Board]] 

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers. 

[[File:Sega_Sound_520-5126-02_Front.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Sega 520-5126-02 sound Board (Front)]]
[[File:Sega Sound 520-5126-02 Back.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Sega 520-5126-02 sound Board (Back)]] 
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00. The sound section of the later Whitestar boardset is almost a 1:1 copy of this board. Even the PAL chips are identical 

===Solid State Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
[[Image:DESolidStateFlipperBoard520-5033-00.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A two channel Data East Solid State Flipper Board, 520-5033-00]] 
 
**520-5033-03
[[Image:DataEastFlipperBoard520-5033-03-RevisionC.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Data East 2nd Generation Solid State Flipper Board, 520-5033-03, as found on Jurassic Park]] 
 

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

[[Image:DEFlipperBoardRottenDogFLP023.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Data East Rottendog Aftermarket Flipper Board (FLP023)]] 
This board was re-engineered to use MOSFETs. It is compatible with a great many DE games via DIP settings.
 

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

[[File:DE 128x16 520-5042-00.JPG|thumb|left|300px|Data East 520-5042-00 128 x 16 "small" DMD Display (front)]]
[[File:DE 128x16 520-5042-00 Back.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Data East 520-5042-00 128 x 16 "small" DMD Display (back)]] 
520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook (5 games total).
 

[[File:128x32 DMD.JPG|thumb|left|400px|Data East 520-5052-00 128 x 32 "Standard sized" DMD Display (front)]]
[[File:DE 128x16 128x32 Comparison.JPG|thumb|right|200px|Size Comparison between 128 x 32 and 128 x 16 DMD Displays]] 
520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
 

[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Placeholder for Data East 520-5075-00 192 x 64 "Large" DMD Display (front)]]
[[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Placeholder for Data East 520-5075-00 192 x 64 "Large" DMD Display (back)]] 
520-5075-00 - Used for the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever (4 games total).
 

===DMD Controller Board===
[[File:DE 520-5055-00 DMD Control Board.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5055-00 Dot Matrix Controller Board]] 
520-5055-00 - Used with "standard" sized 128 x 32 dot matrix displays
 

===Satellite Boards===
====Shaker Motor Board====
[[File:DE Sega 520-5065-00 Shaker Motor Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Data East / Sega 520-5065-00 Shaker Motor Board]] 
Shaker motor board part number 520-5065-00. This single sided board is pretty simple. However, being a single sided board, it is subject to fractured solder joints on the large current limiting cement resistors. If your shaker motor is not shaking, remove this board and check for failed solder joints.
 

====Magnet Control Board====
[[File:DE 520-5068-00 Mag Board.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Data East / Sega 520-5068-00 Magnet Control Board]] 
520-5068-00 - Used on games such as Last Action Hero and Guns 'N Roses
 

===Accessing Bookkeeping, Settings, and Diagnostic Modes===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

====Ease-A-Just====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]] 
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 

=====Setting Free Play=====
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button. See: [[Data_East/Sega#Expand_Audits_and_Expand_Adjustments| Expand Audits and Expand Adjustments]], below.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explanation of the Portals system is in each game manual. 

===Setting the Level and Pitch of a Data East Game===
[[File:DE Apron Levels.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Bubble Levels Located Underneath the Left Apron Card]] 

+++Need to research which game this was first used on+++
 

==Problems and Fixes==

===Expand Audits and Expand Adjustments===
The Data East Audits and Adjustments settings are limited to a subset of the all that can actually be set. The "menu" can be "expanded" to review and/or change additional parameters by selecting the "Expand Adjusts" and "Expand Audits" option. When this option is presented, press the game start button. Additional Audits and Adjustments may then be accessed.

<center>
<gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption="Data East "Expand" Options">
File:DEExpandAdjustments.jpg|<center>The "Expand Adjustments" menu option.</center>
File:DEExpandAudits.jpg|<center>The "Expand Audits" menu option.</center>
</gallery>
</center>
 

===CPU Jumper Settings===
[[File:DE CPU ROM Jumpers.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Location of Jumpers J4 & J5 on Data East CPU Board]]
There is a simple rule of thumb for J4 and J5 jumper settings. This rule applies to all games which use either the version 2 or version 3 CPU board. If two game PROM chips are used at position 5B and 5C, jumper J4 must be installed and jumper J5 must be removed. This applies to games from Laser War to Batman. 

If a single game PROM chip is used at position 5C, jumper J5 must be installed and jumper J4 must be removed. This applies to games from Star Trek 25th Anniversary to Batman Forever. 

The exception to the rule is Laser War. If a version 1 CPU is used in Laser War, only PROM chip 5C is used. The jumper settings should be J4, J6a, and J7a installed, and J5, J6, and J7b removed. If a version 2 CPU is used in Laser War, and PROMs are used at positions 5B and 5C, jumpers J4, J5a, and J6a must be installed. Likewise, jumpers J5, J5b, and J6b must be removed.
 

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. They cannot be repaired, and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation. When installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards. Inserting a blown fuse between the clips when installing new ones helps with achieving the required spacing, and ensuring that the clips do not get installed "backwards". 

Fuse clips are located on the power supply, playfield power board (PPB), solid state flipper board, and some of the satellite boards. 

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_coil Testing a coil]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector [[#Burned_Connectors]]
* Dead TIP36C
* Bad / broken fuse clips

===MPU Boot Issues===
==== Relocating the battery from the MPU board ====
[[File:Leaking_Battery.jpg|120px|thumb|left|Leaking Battery]] 
Relocating the 3xAA batteries off the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. 

The best option is to install a remote battery holder, and place the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won't leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually. 

Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea. In doing this, the battery pack can easily be removed from the MPU board. Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement. If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position. Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead. This will prevent the batteries from being charged and 'cooked' by the game if blocking diode D25 on the MPU board fails. Keep in mind that an added secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory, if D25 is still good. Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.
 

[[File:DE CPU Remote Battery Holder.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Data East MPU Board with Remote Battery Pack]] 
On the MPU, solder the battery cables: positive (red wire) to the bottom right pad and ground (black wire) to the middle right pad. 

After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack's voltage at the '''B+''' test point on MPU board. All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures "out of the box" are somewhat common. Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save some headaches.
 

[[File:DE CPU D23 D25 Battery TP.JPG|200px|thumb|left|D23 and D25 Diodes Highlighted on a Data East Version 3 MPU Board]]
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D25 blocking diode. An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective. Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board's +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack. This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on. Alkaline batteries do not like being charged. They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly). In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged. Testing the D25 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out. When in doubt, replace the D25 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack. Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory, if D25 is still good. 

Testing the D23 diode is a good idea too. The D23 (1N5817) diode is used to keep the backup batteries from powering the MPU board when the power is off. Evidence of a failed D23 diode are batteries which fail prematurely.
 

====Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence====
[[File:De cpu marked LEDs.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Data East CPU - Location of diagnostic LEDs]] 

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot. 

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code: 

When the PIA led stays on do not assume that one of the 6821 PIAs is bad. A boot failure due to a completely unrelated error might just have occured. If you bench test the board you can also use WMS System 11A to 11C roms to check it out. The diagnostic routine is much superior to the one in the DE rom. If you use WMS U26 and U27 roms J4 must be set. You can combine both roms into a 27512 in which case J5 needs to be set on the DE CPU. Everything will work. Some of the special solenoids are connected to different pins but for bench testing who cares? V2 and later DE boards use a 8K ram. The WMS software will not be able to dectect errors in ram space above the 2K limit.
 

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}
 

====Stuck Low Blanking Signal====
[[File:De cpu mark up.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Data East CPU Board - Key Circuits Identified]]
 
====Stuck Low Reset Signal====
[[File:De cpu mark up.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Data East CPU Board - Key Circuits Identified]]
 

====Connecting a Logic Probe to CPU Board====

[[File:De cpu 5v ground.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East CPU Board - 5V and Ground Test Points]]
[[File:De cpu power logic probe.JPG|right|thumb|Data East CPU Board - Logic Probe and PC Power Supply Connected]] 
Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder's upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17. Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points.
 

====Using a PC Power Supply for Bench Testing====

[[File:De cpu 5v ground.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East CPU Board - 5V and Ground Test Points]]
[[File:De cpu power logic probe.JPG|right|thumb|Data East CPU Board - Logic Probe and PC Power Supply Connected]] 
The only voltage needed to power a Data East CPU on the bench is +5VDC. Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder's upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17. Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points.
 

===Power Supply Issues===
The Data East Power Supply is very similar to the Williams System 11 Power Supply. It creates (or passes on) all of the voltages necessary for the game to operate, including...
*5 and 12VDC for the MPU
*5, 12, 68, -98, and -110VDC for the Dot Matrix Display (for DMD equipped games)
*18VDC for the lamp matrix
*34VDC for coils
*6VAC (or so) for general illumination lamps
*5, 12, and -12VDC for the sound board

The power supply also contains a 24VDC relay used to turn general illumination on/off.

The 5VDC power circuit explained ''(in work)''
*The board receives about 9VAC at CN1, pins 10 and 11.
*9VAC is full wave rectified into about 12 and -12VDC by the bridge rectifier at DB1.
*The 9VAC continues to capacitor C2, a 100uf/25V electrolytic cap that is used as part of a voltage doubler circuit that provides operating power for the 723 regulator. D2, D3 and C3 comprise the remaining components of the Greinacher type voltage doubler. Failure of any of these four components will cut power to the LM723 regulator and affect 5VDC operation.
*Unregulated 12VDC is presented to the LM723 5V regulator at pins 11 and 12.
*R6 is used for short circuit detection. Under ideal conditions (output not shorted or overloaded), there should be a very small voltage drop across R6. If the power supply is shorted -- there will be a large voltage drop across R6. Pin 3 of the regulator will detect the difference and turn down the series pass transistor TR5 in the presence of a shorted output.
*R2 and R3 are connected to the LM723 in a voltage dividing configuration. R2 and R3 together with R4 establish the output voltage levels (5VDC)

====Missing 5VDC====
[[File:Leaking5VPSCapacitorGodsEyeCaptioned.jpg|200px|thumb|left|God's eye view of capacitor C2, leaking.]]
 
[[File:Leaking5VPSCapacitor.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A second view of C2, leaking.]]
 
A common reason for the lack of 5VDC is failure of the capacitor at C2. This 100uf/25V cap sometimes fails and begins to leak it's contents onto the circuit board. After a period of time, the caustic contents of the cap begin to eat into the board's copper traces. Eventually, the 5V generation path is severed.

Another common cause for loss of 5VDC power is failure of the LM723 regulator. Measure and compare the DC voltage at pins 4 and 5 of the regulator relative to board ground. If the voltages differ, the regulator has failed. Socket and replace the regulator. 

[[File:DEPowerSupply5VDCSectionCaptioned.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A portion of the DE Power Supply schematic, with C2 circled.]] 
Note C2, circled in the schematics at left, and it's position in the 5V generation path. It's failure interrupts the path. 

====Burned Connector Pins====
[[File:BurnedPin10DEPowerSupply.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Burned 9VAC input pin. Often this pin is burned to a crisp. This one isn't too bad.]] 
The 12 position "wafer" connector (CN1), which provides AC power input from the transformer secondary, often ends up with burned pins. Complete replacement of this connector is recommended should it become burned. The female housing may be reused, but it's good practice to repin both sides of a burned connector.

In a pinch, "male" header pins on the CN1 wafer may be swapped with "male" header pins at CN2, pins 1, 2, 4, or 5, as those pins are never used.
 

[[File:GIOutputPinBurn.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Crispy General Illumination Power Connector. This connector should be replaced immediately.]] 
Data East general illumination power connectors, like many other game systems, tend to burn from long hours of continuous use at current levels higher than the connectors can handle. These connectors are caught in a death spiral of heat & tarnish which increases resistance, which increases current draw, which increases heat and tarnish, etc.

The only sure correction for these connectors is complete replacement of both the male and female connectors.
 

====Low 5VDC and game resets====

If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace...
*bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501),
*C2 (100uf 25v),
*C3 (47uf 63V),
*C7 (330uf 25V),
*LM723 voltage regulator,
*TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board (use 2N6059 or 2N6284 to replace obsolete 2N6057),
*C1 (1000uf 25V) can also be replaced when you have problems with the -12V supply too.

Most times, this will correct problems with the 5VDC power supply
 

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760B ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -98 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -98v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -98v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-98v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Lamp Issues===

====General Illumination Issues====
The single largest issue with general illumination lighting in Data East games, like Williams System 11 games, is burned GI connectors at the power supply. Repinning both sides of the connector is the best solution. Be sure to use "trifurcon" crimp pins in the female .156 9-pin connector housing.

{| class="wikitable"
!<center> Pin </center>
! Wire Color at CN8    
|-
|<center>1 (top)</center> ||  Brown
|-
|<center>2</center> ||  Yellow (yellow)
|-
|<center>3</center> ||  Green
|-
|<center>4</center> ||  Violet
|-
|<center>5</center> ||  Key
|-
|<center>6</center> ||  White-Brown
|-
|<center>7</center> ||  White-Yellow (yellow)
|-
|<center>8</center> ||  White-Green
|-
|<center>9</center> ||  White-Violet
|}

[[File:DataEastGIConnectonAtPS.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A nicely repinned General Illumination (GI) connector on a Data East Power Supply.]]
[[File:DataEastGIConnectonAtPPB.jpg|200px|thumb|right|This GI connection at the PPB Board shows heat stress. Both the male and female sides of this connector should be replaced.]] 
General illumination power is sourced at the power supply. AC power comes in via a 4-pin connection at CN9. A GI relay cube on the power supply is used by the game to switch all GI power on/off. GI power is routed through the PPB board to add fuse protection and nothing else. The power enters the board at J5. Each of the 4 separate GI power lanes is fused on the board. GI power then exits the board through the same connector (J5).

The male connector on the PPB board is subject to cracked solder joints since the board is single sided only. If you are experiencing GI issues, in addition to checking for burned connectors, wiggling the GI connection at the PPB board will sometimes identify the source of the problem.
 

[[File:DEGIZConnector.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Data East Z connector. This one in the GI circuit. The only thing missing here is some marshmallows.]] 
Data East also used "Z connectors" instead of the more typical "cube" molex connectors. The example at left shows an extremely toasty GI connector between the backbox and the backbox lamp insert panel. Correct this by removing the connector completely. Solder each wire directly together, using heat shrink tubing to insulate. This connector facilitated cheap/fast manufacture and serves no purpose now, unless the user wants to remove the lamp board insert, which is highly unlikely. 

====Controlled Lamp Issues====
===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the PinWiki.]]

====Single Switch Issues====
#For micro-switches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a faint "click" when the lever is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes form (bend) the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad even when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually actuate the switch. If the game does not report the switch closure 100% correctly, replace the switch and the diode. The micro-switch (180-5064-00) on the Vertical Up Kicker (VUK) can wear out. A replacement can be sourced from DigiKey as [http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=480-2381-ND 480-2381-ND] from Honeywell Sensing (MFG PN# V7-1C17D8-048).
#You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to test the switch.
##Set your DMM to continuity.
##Place one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode)
##Place the other lead on one of the other lugs.
##The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated.
##Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug.
##The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
##Note that this test only tests the switch itself, not the circuitry responsible for reacting to a switch closure nor the wiring between the switch and other components.
#For leaf switches, make sure the contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do fail, but rarely. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4002 thru 1N4007 diodes.

====Complete (or most of a) Column/Row of Switches Not Working====
If a complete column or row of switches are not working, determine first if the problem is on the CPU or out on the playfield.

If the problem is on the playfield, then it is likely that the column/row wire is broken or the connector is at fault. Following are several techniques you can use to find the fault.
#If a complete row/column is out, then either the female connector is bad, or the wire is broken prior to the first switch as physically wired in the game. Note that "physical" wiring order will almost certainly differ from the schematics.
#If something less than a complete row/column is out, then a wire is broken between two of the switches. Track the wire color from one switch to another or use your DMM to "buzz" between switch solder lugs of two switches. This can help you narrow the search.

====On Board/Off Board Switch Matrix Problem Determination====
[[File:DataEastSwitchMatrixTest.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Testing a Data East switch matrix operation by connecting a row to a column. Note that a diode is NOT necessary for this test.]] 
The first step in diagnosing a switch matrix problem is to determine whether the problem is on the MPU or somewhere in the game wiring. Testing MPU switch matrix operation is simple.

#Remove CN8 and CN10 from the MPU.
#Power the game on.
#Place the game in switch test.
#Using a short length of wire with a clip on at least one end, jumper pin 1 to pin 1, then pin 2 to pin 1, etc.
#Each time you jumper a pin, a single switch closure should be reported.
#If the game reports only a single switch closure each time you jumper two pins, your MPU is working fine.
#If the game reports multiple switch closures when you jumper two pins, then your MPU switch matrix has been damaged, probably by shorting high voltage to either a switch matrix row or column on the playfield. Reminder...never risk shorting high voltage to the switch matrix by working on the game with power on.
 

====Multiple Switches Reported from a Single Switch Closure====
[[File:DataEastSwitchMatrixShort.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A ball trough switch bent and shorting column and row wires together. The insulator has also slipped off of the green/red wire lug. This caused multiple switch closures to be reported when only a single switch was closed.]] 
If pressing a single switch in switch test causes the game to report multiple switch closures, determine first if the problem is on the CPU or out on the playfield.

If the problem is on the playfield, inspect the likely switches to ensure that none are shorted to themselves. Check to make sure that the leads do not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead, as shown in the picture at left.
 

==== Periodic "Random" Slam Tilts ====
[[File:PFHangerScrewCausingSlamTiltThanksCliffy.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A real hair puller. This screw is making contact with the switch lug, resulting in "slam tilts".]] 
Thanks to a couple of folks on RGP for posting this one and to Cliffy for the picture. 

Games with playfield hangers and elevated ball troughs (ball trough is located above the playfield) similar to Star Wars, Lethal Weapon 3, Hook, etc. may "slam tilt" unexpectedly. The cause of this is a playfield hanger screw that backs out, makes contact with the lower switch lug, and completes the path to ground for the switch. This causes a "sneak circuit path" in the switch matrix and results in slam tilts as well as other switch anomalies.
 

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

;Outgassing Displays
:DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.
:*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
The 128x16 DMD was the first DMD used in a pinball machine and was used for five games. It was replaced by the much more familiar 128x32 display.

Sometimes this display will light but the display will appear garbled. The display will flicker and move but the output will not be readable. This can be caused by the R95 resistor on the DMD controller board going out of spec. It should be a 33k 1/2 watt resistor.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display glass is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams and can be used as a drop in replacement. However, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used, R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or a jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin 38B.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
The large 128x64 DMD was used in the last four Data East pinball machines. The display is a relatively expensive part to replace, costing several times as much as the more standard 128x32 DMD.

One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Coils===
====Flipper Issues====
[[File:DE_Early_Single_Wound_Flipper_Coil.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Flipper Coil using the earliest "Deger" design (Monday Night Football)]] 
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversary, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This single wound flipper coil design was developed by Kurt Deger, and is commonly referred to as the Deger design. Although it has gone through some transformation over the years, it is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] contains a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution. 

The patent for the original Deger design can be viewed [http://www.google.com/patents/US4895369 here].
 

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board then drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This is similar to the Bally/Williams WPC FlipTronics II design where the flipper hold is controlled by the FlipTronics II board. Still, many note a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. This does differ from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed in Data East games. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the solid state flipper board (TY-FFASI board) which is mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED illuminate briefly when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check for 50VDC at the coil lugs (DMM set to DC volts, black lead on game ground, red lead on banded side of coil diode)
* Press flipper button and check for about 8VDC hold voltage
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (DMM set to DC volts, black lead on game ground, red lead on CN2 pins 6&7 (8VDC hold), CN2 pins 8&9 (50VDC power stroke)

If you have no voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

=====Flipper Repair and Rebuilding=====

[[File:DEFlipperLinkHoggedOut.jpg|left|thumb|Composite of a Data East Flipper Plunger and Link. Note how "hogged out" the large hole in the link is in the top image. The middle image shows the "slop" with the plunger pushed in. The bottom image shows the "slop" with the plunger pulled out. All three images are the same flipper plunger and link.]] 
A major contributor to weak flippers in any game, including Data East, is a damaged or "hogged out" flipper link. The picture at left shows a flipper link with about 1/8" of "slop" in it. When the flipper coil pulls the plunger in, the flipper crank doesn't begin to actuate the flipper until all of the slack caused by this slop is taken in. At the very least, replacing the link is warranted.
 

[[File:flipper-before.jpg|left|thumb|Flippers at the hold position before a rebuild]]
[[File:flipperparts.jpg|right|thumb|Data East Flipper Rebuild Parts - Return Spring, Plunger/Link Assembly, Coil Spring, EOS Switch, Coil Sleeve, Flipper Bushing, Coil Stop, Spring Washer]] 
A flipper rebuild is one of the easier things you can do to improve the playability of your machine. Over time the parts of a flipper will wear and need replacing. Signs of this include weak or slow flippers, flippers that do not return quickly, or flippers that travel too far. An experienced repairman can just replace the needed parts but it is far easier to buy a flipper rebuild kit from a pinball supplier. These kits will contains all the parts needed for a general flipper rebuild. Flipper coils are not included in rebuild kits but are not typically needed for a repair. 

Some parts are interchangeable between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers due to the similarities in design. For example, coil sleeves, links, and plungers are the same. However the flipper bushings and coil stops, although appearing similar, are not compatible. Buying a complete flipper rebuild kit for your machine will ensure you get all the correct parts.
 

[[File:coilstops.jpg|left|thumb|Used and new coil stops. Excessive wear has caused the coil stop to mushroom and allow the flipper to travel too far]]
[[File:flipperalign.jpg|right|thumb|Aligning flippers on a Data East machine]] 
Below are the steps to rebuild an early Data East solid state flipper. This guide does not currently address the additional steps needed for replacing or adjusting EOS switches. 

# Remove the coil stop.
# Pull the coil away from the flipper assembly. Typically the coil does not have to be replaced, so desoldering the leads is not necessary. Remove the plastic coil sleeve from the coil. This should slide out somewhat easily, but a nut driver can be used to push it out. If you cannot remove the sleeve it may have warped due to heat issues. If this is the case, replace the coil. Always replace coil sleeves when rebuilding flippers.
# Remove the return spring.
# Loosen the allen screw that holds the flipper shaft in place. The flipper can now be removed from the top of the playfield. Remove the plunger and link assembly.
# Replace the rubber stopper where the link assembly rests.
# Clean the metal parts of the flipper assembly.
# If your existing flipper has one, remove the spring holder and put in on the new link assembly. Attach one side of the new return spring to the spring holder.
# Replace the flipper from the top of the playfield.
# Loosen the flipper bolt and replace the plunger/link assembly. Do not tighten this yet.
# Attach the other end of the return spring.
# Assemble the coil. Be sure to put the end with the lugs away from the coil stop.
# Replace the coil stop and the spring washer.
# Adjust the flippers from the top of the playfield. On Data East machines the guide holes align with the tip of the flippers. Tighten the allen screw on the link assembly to hold the flipper shaft in place.
 

[[File:WMSPlungerLinkCrankOnDEGame.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A Williams plunger/link/crank assembly and EOS switch, installed on a Data East Tales from the Crypt.]] 
As mentioned above, some Williams flipper parts can work in Data East games. In the picture at left, a Williams plunger/link/crank assembly and EOS switch have been substituted. To make this work, the EOS "finger" on the crank must be bent straight and the EOS switch position must be adjusted. It works surprisingly well. The feel is very solid.
 

[[File:DE Upper Flipper.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Upper Right Flipper on a Data East game (Jurassic Park)]] 
It is worth noting that Data East games which use a solid state flipper board, and have upper flippers, do not EOS switches on these flippers. If an upper flipper appears to be missing the EOS switch, it actually is not. This is an intended design.
 

====Ball Trough Issues====
[[File:DE 6ball Trough.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Typical Ball Trough on Later Data East Games]] 
[[File:DE Trough Ball Lock2.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Lock Ball Assy. used on Later Data East Games Where sublevel ball trough is used]] 
[[File:DE Ball Trough Divots.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Data East / Sega Ball Trough with Ball Divots (Jurassic Park)]] 
Starting with Jurassic Park, a different type of ball trough is used. This ball trough is mounted below the plane of the playfield versus the old style, which is mounted above the playfield. The main purpose of this trough is to allow the storage of more pinballs in the trough. However, there are a whole new list of potential problems that come along with this design. 

 

===Memory Issues (Open The Door message)===
You may recieve a message when turning on the game to 'Open the Door'. This is because the game sees that the RAM information is invalid. The game should boot normally after opening the coin door. This is most likely due to the dead batteries on the CPU. The first step is to replace the batteries and make sure there is no corrosion. If corrosion is found, fix those issues first before continuing.

The next thing to check is diode D25 just to the right of the batteries. To test this, set your multimeter to DC Volts, but the black lead on the ground test point near the top of the board, and the red lead on the banded side of diode D25. You should read close to 4.2 volts. Now move the read lead to the non-banded side of the diode. You should read close to 4.6 volts. Move your red lead to test point B just to the right of the diode D25. You should also see close to 4.2 volts. If any of these readings are significantly different replace the diode.

Finally, check for 4.2 volts on the bottom right pin for RAM 5D. This chip will be right below the game ROM. Also, make sure this RAM chip is securely seated. The chip can sometimes become loose when the game ROM is changed due to it's proximity on the board. If all these steps are done and you still get the 'Open the Door' message you will need to replace the RAM chip at location 5D.

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair] 
[http://kcpins.com/archives/137 Data East Power Supply Rebuild] 
===Delayed or Missing Blanking Signal===
'''Time Machine CPU board''' - blanking signal would go high approximately after 7 seconds or more, (if it went high at all), after PIA diagnostic signal would go low (PIA LED would go out). For a properly functioning CPU board, the blanking signal should go high immediately after the PIA signal changes its state from high to low. 

'''Resolution:''' a bad '''AMI''' 6808 CPU chip. Beware of failing AMI chips. It is rumored that AMI chips have higher failure rates than most other manufacturers. This ultimately was a simple fix, but after extensive troubleshooting was performed first. This particular fix is more of an exception than the rule. Generally, a missing blanking signal should be isolated to the blanking generator circuitry (555 timer chip, 2N4403, etc.). 

===Incorrect Flipper Pawl Screw Installed===
'''Jurassic Park''', but applies to other games
[[File:DE Flippers Incorrect.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Data East Flippers with Extra Long Screws Used on Flipper Pawls]]
This falls under the "not too often category", but it is worth mentioning. The screws used to tighten the flipper pawls have a dual duty. They of course secure the flipper pawls to the flipper bat, but they also open the flipper EOS switch. 

There were two problems with flippers on this game, as can be seen in the pic on the left. First, the screws used were Phillips head screws. A Phillips head screw does not allow for enough torque to adequately secure the flipper pawl to the flipper bat shaft. The factory screws used are #10-32 x 3/4" hardened steel socket head hex Allen screws. In using an Allen screw, chances of stripping the head are minimized, and much more torque can be applied when tightening. The second problem was that the replacement flipper pawl screws were too long. By using a longer screw, it messes with the solid state flipper board's timing, because the EOS switch is opened prematurely. The end result was a weak spastic flipper.
 

'''Resolution: ''' Installed the proper #10-32 x 3/4" hardened steel socket head hex Allen screw on both flipper assys.

Star Wars

2013-01-14T17:05:02Z

Williams: /* 20th Anniversary Edition ROM (version 1.4) */

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Data East|| 1992 || 24 || 10,400
|}

[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2358 Star Wars entry at ipdb.org]

[http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/2358/starwars.htm Star Wars Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]

=Solenoid Table=
{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Sol. # !! Function !! Solenoid Type !! Wire Color (Drive) !! Connection (CPU) !! Wire Color (Power)!! Drive Transistor (CPU)!! Drive Transistor (PPB-1) !!Solenoid / Flashlamp Part #
|-
|1L|| Outhole || Switched || VIO-BRN || CN11-1 || BRN || Q46 || -- || 23-840
|-
|1R|| Flashers - PF (3), Insert (1) || Switched || BLK-BRN || CN11-1 || ORG || Q46 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|2L|| Trough Eject || Switched || VIO-RED || CN11-3 || BRN || Q45 || -- || 23-840
|-
|2R|| Flashers - PF (1), Back Panel (3) || Switched || BLK-RED || CN11-3 || ORG || Q45 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|3L|| Ball Launch || Switched || VIO-ORG || CN11-4 || VIO || Q44 || Q5 || 23-800
|-
|3R|| Flashers - PF (2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-ORG || CN11-4 || ORG || Q44 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|4L|| Left Power Scoop || Switched || VIO-YEL || CN11-5 || YEL-VIO || Q43 || Q4 || 25-1240
|-
|4R|| Flashers - PF (4) || Switched || BLK-YEL || CN11-5 || ORG || Q43 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|5L|| VUK || Switched || VIO-GRN || CN11-6 || YEL-VIO || Q42 || Q3 || 23-800
|-
|5R|| Flashers - Death Star (2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-GRN || CN11-6 || ORG || Q42 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|6L|| Drop Target Bank Reset || Switched || VIO-BLU || CN11-7 || BRN || Q41 || -- || 23-800
|-
|6R|| Flashers - PF (2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-BLU || CN11-7 || ORG || Q41 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|7L|| Right Power Scoop || Switched || VIO-BLK || CN11-8 || YEL-VIO || Q40 || Q2 || 23-840
|-
|7R|| Flashers - R2D2(2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-VIO || CN11-8 || ORG || Q40 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|8L|| Knocker || Switched || VIO-GRY || CN11-9 || BRN || Q39 || -- || 23-800
|-
|8R|| Flashers - PF (3), Insert (1) || Switched || BLK-GRY || CN11-9 || ORG || Q39 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|9|| R2D2 Dance || Controlled || BRN-BLK || CN12-1 || RED || Q30 || -- || 23-800
|-
|10|| L/R Coil Select Relay|| Controlled || BLK-RED || CN12-2 || RED-WHT || Q29 || -- || P/O PPB Board
|-
|11|| GI Relay || Controlled || BRN-RED || CN12-4 || RED || Q28 || -- || P/O PS Board
|-
|12|| Bar Target Motor Relay Board || Controlled || BRN-YEL || CN12-5 || RED || Q27 || -- || 520-5010-00
|-
|13|| Not Used || Controlled || BRN-GRN || CN12-6 || -- || Q26 || -- || --
|-
|14|| Not Used || Controlled || BRN-BLU || CN12-7 || -- || Q25 || -- || --
|-
|15|| Death Star & R2D2 Relay Board || Controlled || BRN-VIO || CN12-8 || RED || Q24 || --|| 520-5010-00
|-
|16|| Laser Kick || Controlled || BRN-GRY || CN12-9 || YEL-VIO || Q23 || Q1 || 23-800
|-
|17|| Top Turbo Bumper || Special #1|| BLU-BRN || CN19-7 || RED || Q11 || -- || 23-800
|-
|18|| Left Turbo Bumper || Special #2|| BLU-RED || CN19-4 || RED || Q9 || -- || 23-800
|-
|19|| Right Turbo Bumper || Special #3 || BLU-ORG || CN19-3 || RED || Q8 || -- || 23-800
|-
|20|| Bottom Turbo Bumper || Special #4 || BLU-YEL || CN19-6 || RED || Q10 || -- || 23-800
|-
|21|| Left Slingshot || Special #5 || BLU-GRN || CN19-8 || RED || Q12 || -- || 23-800
|-
|22|| Right Slingshot || Special #6|| BLU-BLK || CN19-9 || RED || Q13 ||--|| 23-800
|}

'''Please note that the above chart is only as accurate as the Star Wars manual.'''
 

= Game-Specific Issues =
=== Upgrading to newer, larger ROMs ===
[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2M ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]]During the manufacturing run of Star Wars two different display controller boards were used. Early versions of the board had the display software installed on two 2M ROMs. Later boards had one 4M ROM installed. To use a 4M ROM with the older display board, remove the jumper at R11. This can simply be cut off the board. Be sure to insert the new ROM with the notched side having the correct orientation; the socket is notched also. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.]
 

=== 20th Anniversary Edition ROM (version 1.4) ===
In late 2012 a new version of the Star Wars code was released, nearly 20 years after the original release of the machine. This code was developed by Chad Hendrickson, a private individual, but is endorsed by Data East/Stern pinball. This is a highly encouraged upgrade to the machine as the scoring rules are much more balanced and some bugs are fixed. The code can be downloaded at the Stern Pinball website as [http://www.sternpinball.com/game-code.shtml 'Star Wars 2012'] but the developer of the ROM also has a website at [http://www.pinballcode.com/ www.pinballcode.com]. Purchasing the ROM at www.pinballcode.com goes directly to the individual who developed the update.

=== Repairing/Installing the Death Star 'Bar' Target ===
The yellow bar target is a problematic part on Star Wars and is not readily available. This leaf switch is attached to a unidirectional motor that raises and lowers the target. Replacement motors are readily available from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball suppliers.]]
[[File:De-sw_bracket.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Remove these four screws from the Death Star motor bracket to easily access the bar target.]]The switch and assembly can be easily removed from underneath the playfield by removing the four screws that attach the motor bracket to the playfield. The black plastic panel that the switch is attached to can be tilted and pulled away from the playfield. The target is attched to the panel by two lock nuts. The bar target switch is just a simple leaf switch so many of the techniques to rebuild that type of switch can be applied here. Make sure the two contacts of the leaf switch make good contact when the switch is pressed. You can take a business card to clean the contacts. Put a business card between the contacts, close the switch, and remove the card. You may choose to reflow the solder of the switch to insure a good connection. This is also an excellent opportunity to clean the target as well as replace the small piece of foam weatherstripping that is mounted behind the target.
 

[[File:De sw-switch.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bar motor 'up' switch. Make sure your wires are not shorted when reassembling the target]]When reassembling your switch make sure the 'prong' from the motor is inserted into the recess of the black plastic piece the bar target mounts to. Also make sure that the two switches that determine when the bar motor is either up or down are not shorted. These are some tight connections and the diode can easily be shorted to the wire. Doing so will register the switch as always open and the target will not lower or close, depending on which switch is shorted. The bar motor test in diagnostics will show this. When entering this test, holding the start button will raise and lower the target continuously. The switches should be off until the target reaches its extreme and then briefly switch to on.
 

=== Connector CN19 and locked solenoids ===
[[File:IMG 0739.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Connections on a Data East CPU.]]Connector CN19 is keyed at the center pin so this connector will fit in either direction. If put on backward you will have some locked solenoids when entering switch tests and possibly when starting a game. For example, when entering diagnostics the right slingshot will immediately lock on. The correct orientation of this connector will have the orange wires on top and the blue wires on the bottom.

Star Wars

2013-01-14T04:03:27Z

Williams: /* Game-Specific Issues */

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Data East|| 1992 || 24 || 10,400
|}

[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2358 Star Wars entry at ipdb.org]

[http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/2358/starwars.htm Star Wars Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]

=Solenoid Table=
{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Sol. # !! Function !! Solenoid Type !! Wire Color (Drive) !! Connection (CPU) !! Wire Color (Power)!! Drive Transistor (CPU)!! Drive Transistor (PPB-1) !!Solenoid / Flashlamp Part #
|-
|1L|| Outhole || Switched || VIO-BRN || CN11-1 || BRN || Q46 || -- || 23-840
|-
|1R|| Flashers - PF (3), Insert (1) || Switched || BLK-BRN || CN11-1 || ORG || Q46 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|2L|| Trough Eject || Switched || VIO-RED || CN11-3 || BRN || Q45 || -- || 23-840
|-
|2R|| Flashers - PF (1), Back Panel (3) || Switched || BLK-RED || CN11-3 || ORG || Q45 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|3L|| Ball Launch || Switched || VIO-ORG || CN11-4 || VIO || Q44 || Q5 || 23-800
|-
|3R|| Flashers - PF (2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-ORG || CN11-4 || ORG || Q44 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|4L|| Left Power Scoop || Switched || VIO-YEL || CN11-5 || YEL-VIO || Q43 || Q4 || 25-1240
|-
|4R|| Flashers - PF (4) || Switched || BLK-YEL || CN11-5 || ORG || Q43 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|5L|| VUK || Switched || VIO-GRN || CN11-6 || YEL-VIO || Q42 || Q3 || 23-800
|-
|5R|| Flashers - Death Star (2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-GRN || CN11-6 || ORG || Q42 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|6L|| Drop Target Bank Reset || Switched || VIO-BLU || CN11-7 || BRN || Q41 || -- || 23-800
|-
|6R|| Flashers - PF (2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-BLU || CN11-7 || ORG || Q41 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|7L|| Right Power Scoop || Switched || VIO-BLK || CN11-8 || YEL-VIO || Q40 || Q2 || 23-840
|-
|7R|| Flashers - R2D2(2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-VIO || CN11-8 || ORG || Q40 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|8L|| Knocker || Switched || VIO-GRY || CN11-9 || BRN || Q39 || -- || 23-800
|-
|8R|| Flashers - PF (3), Insert (1) || Switched || BLK-GRY || CN11-9 || ORG || Q39 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|9|| R2D2 Dance || Controlled || BRN-BLK || CN12-1 || RED || Q30 || -- || 23-800
|-
|10|| L/R Coil Select Relay|| Controlled || BLK-RED || CN12-2 || RED-WHT || Q29 || -- || P/O PPB Board
|-
|11|| GI Relay || Controlled || BRN-RED || CN12-4 || RED || Q28 || -- || P/O PS Board
|-
|12|| Bar Target Motor Relay Board || Controlled || BRN-YEL || CN12-5 || RED || Q27 || -- || 520-5010-00
|-
|13|| Not Used || Controlled || BRN-GRN || CN12-6 || -- || Q26 || -- || --
|-
|14|| Not Used || Controlled || BRN-BLU || CN12-7 || -- || Q25 || -- || --
|-
|15|| Death Star & R2D2 Relay Board || Controlled || BRN-VIO || CN12-8 || RED || Q24 || --|| 520-5010-00
|-
|16|| Laser Kick || Controlled || BRN-GRY || CN12-9 || YEL-VIO || Q23 || Q1 || 23-800
|-
|17|| Top Turbo Bumper || Special #1|| BLU-BRN || CN19-7 || RED || Q11 || -- || 23-800
|-
|18|| Left Turbo Bumper || Special #2|| BLU-RED || CN19-4 || RED || Q9 || -- || 23-800
|-
|19|| Right Turbo Bumper || Special #3 || BLU-ORG || CN19-3 || RED || Q8 || -- || 23-800
|-
|20|| Bottom Turbo Bumper || Special #4 || BLU-YEL || CN19-6 || RED || Q10 || -- || 23-800
|-
|21|| Left Slingshot || Special #5 || BLU-GRN || CN19-8 || RED || Q12 || -- || 23-800
|-
|22|| Right Slingshot || Special #6|| BLU-BLK || CN19-9 || RED || Q13 ||--|| 23-800
|}

'''Please note that the above chart is only as accurate as the Star Wars manual.'''
 

= Game-Specific Issues =
=== Upgrading to newer, larger ROMs ===
[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2M ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]]During the manufacturing run of Star Wars two different display controller boards were used. Early versions of the board had the display software installed on two 2M ROMs. Later boards had one 4M ROM installed. To use a 4M ROM with the older display board, remove the jumper at R11. This can simply be cut off the board. Be sure to insert the new ROM with the notched side having the correct orientation; the socket is notched also. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.]
 

=== 20th Anniversary Edition ROM (version 1.4) ===
In late 2012 a new version of the Star Wars code was released, nearly 20 years after the original release of the machine. This code was developed by a private individual but is endorsed by Data East/Stern pinball. This is a highly encouraged upgrade to the machine as the scoring rules are much more balanced and some bugs are fixed. The code can be downloaded at the Stern Pinball website as [http://www.sternpinball.com/game-code.shtml 'Star Wars 2012'] but the developer of the ROM also has a website at [http://www.pinballcode.com/ www.pinballcode.com]. Purchasing the ROM at www.pinballcode.com goes directly to the individual who developed the update.

=== Repairing/Installing the Death Star 'Bar' Target ===
The yellow bar target is a problematic part on Star Wars and is not readily available. This leaf switch is attached to a unidirectional motor that raises and lowers the target. Replacement motors are readily available from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball suppliers.]]
[[File:De-sw_bracket.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Remove these four screws from the Death Star motor bracket to easily access the bar target.]]The switch and assembly can be easily removed from underneath the playfield by removing the four screws that attach the motor bracket to the playfield. The black plastic panel that the switch is attached to can be tilted and pulled away from the playfield. The target is attched to the panel by two lock nuts. The bar target switch is just a simple leaf switch so many of the techniques to rebuild that type of switch can be applied here. Make sure the two contacts of the leaf switch make good contact when the switch is pressed. You can take a business card to clean the contacts. Put a business card between the contacts, close the switch, and remove the card. You may choose to reflow the solder of the switch to insure a good connection. This is also an excellent opportunity to clean the target as well as replace the small piece of foam weatherstripping that is mounted behind the target.
 

[[File:De sw-switch.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bar motor 'up' switch. Make sure your wires are not shorted when reassembling the target]]When reassembling your switch make sure the 'prong' from the motor is inserted into the recess of the black plastic piece the bar target mounts to. Also make sure that the two switches that determine when the bar motor is either up or down are not shorted. These are some tight connections and the diode can easily be shorted to the wire. Doing so will register the switch as always open and the target will not lower or close, depending on which switch is shorted. The bar motor test in diagnostics will show this. When entering this test, holding the start button will raise and lower the target continuously. The switches should be off until the target reaches its extreme and then briefly switch to on.
 

=== Connector CN19 and locked solenoids ===
[[File:IMG 0739.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Connections on a Data East CPU.]]Connector CN19 is keyed at the center pin so this connector will fit in either direction. If put on backward you will have some locked solenoids when entering switch tests and possibly when starting a game. For example, when entering diagnostics the right slingshot will immediately lock on. The correct orientation of this connector will have the orange wires on top and the blue wires on the bottom.

Star Wars

2013-01-14T03:19:21Z

Williams: /* Game-Specific Issues */

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Data East|| 1992 || 24 || 10,400
|}

[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2358 Star Wars entry at ipdb.org]

[http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/2358/starwars.htm Star Wars Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]

=Solenoid Table=
{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Sol. # !! Function !! Solenoid Type !! Wire Color (Drive) !! Connection (CPU) !! Wire Color (Power)!! Drive Transistor (CPU)!! Drive Transistor (PPB-1) !!Solenoid / Flashlamp Part #
|-
|1L|| Outhole || Switched || VIO-BRN || CN11-1 || BRN || Q46 || -- || 23-840
|-
|1R|| Flashers - PF (3), Insert (1) || Switched || BLK-BRN || CN11-1 || ORG || Q46 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|2L|| Trough Eject || Switched || VIO-RED || CN11-3 || BRN || Q45 || -- || 23-840
|-
|2R|| Flashers - PF (1), Back Panel (3) || Switched || BLK-RED || CN11-3 || ORG || Q45 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|3L|| Ball Launch || Switched || VIO-ORG || CN11-4 || VIO || Q44 || Q5 || 23-800
|-
|3R|| Flashers - PF (2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-ORG || CN11-4 || ORG || Q44 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|4L|| Left Power Scoop || Switched || VIO-YEL || CN11-5 || YEL-VIO || Q43 || Q4 || 25-1240
|-
|4R|| Flashers - PF (4) || Switched || BLK-YEL || CN11-5 || ORG || Q43 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|5L|| VUK || Switched || VIO-GRN || CN11-6 || YEL-VIO || Q42 || Q3 || 23-800
|-
|5R|| Flashers - Death Star (2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-GRN || CN11-6 || ORG || Q42 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|6L|| Drop Target Bank Reset || Switched || VIO-BLU || CN11-7 || BRN || Q41 || -- || 23-800
|-
|6R|| Flashers - PF (2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-BLU || CN11-7 || ORG || Q41 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|7L|| Right Power Scoop || Switched || VIO-BLK || CN11-8 || YEL-VIO || Q40 || Q2 || 23-840
|-
|7R|| Flashers - R2D2(2), Insert (2) || Switched || BLK-VIO || CN11-8 || ORG || Q40 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|8L|| Knocker || Switched || VIO-GRY || CN11-9 || BRN || Q39 || -- || 23-800
|-
|8R|| Flashers - PF (3), Insert (1) || Switched || BLK-GRY || CN11-9 || ORG || Q39 || -- || 89 (4)
|-
|9|| R2D2 Dance || Controlled || BRN-BLK || CN12-1 || RED || Q30 || -- || 23-800
|-
|10|| L/R Coil Select Relay|| Controlled || BLK-RED || CN12-2 || RED-WHT || Q29 || -- || P/O PPB Board
|-
|11|| GI Relay || Controlled || BRN-RED || CN12-4 || RED || Q28 || -- || P/O PS Board
|-
|12|| Bar Target Motor Relay Board || Controlled || BRN-YEL || CN12-5 || RED || Q27 || -- || 520-5010-00
|-
|13|| Not Used || Controlled || BRN-GRN || CN12-6 || -- || Q26 || -- || --
|-
|14|| Not Used || Controlled || BRN-BLU || CN12-7 || -- || Q25 || -- || --
|-
|15|| Death Star & R2D2 Relay Board || Controlled || BRN-VIO || CN12-8 || RED || Q24 || --|| 520-5010-00
|-
|16|| Laser Kick || Controlled || BRN-GRY || CN12-9 || YEL-VIO || Q23 || Q1 || 23-800
|-
|17|| Top Turbo Bumper || Special #1|| BLU-BRN || CN19-7 || RED || Q11 || -- || 23-800
|-
|18|| Left Turbo Bumper || Special #2|| BLU-RED || CN19-4 || RED || Q9 || -- || 23-800
|-
|19|| Right Turbo Bumper || Special #3 || BLU-ORG || CN19-3 || RED || Q8 || -- || 23-800
|-
|20|| Bottom Turbo Bumper || Special #4 || BLU-YEL || CN19-6 || RED || Q10 || -- || 23-800
|-
|21|| Left Slingshot || Special #5 || BLU-GRN || CN19-8 || RED || Q12 || -- || 23-800
|-
|22|| Right Slingshot || Special #6|| BLU-BLK || CN19-9 || RED || Q13 ||--|| 23-800
|}

'''Please note that the above chart is only as accurate as the Star Wars manual.'''
 

= Game-Specific Issues =
=== Upgrading to newer, larger ROMs ===
[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2M ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]]During the manufacturing run of Star Wars two different display controller boards were used. Early versions of the board had the display software installed on two 2M ROMs. Later boards had one 4M ROM installed. To use a 4M ROM with the older display board, remove the jumper at R11. This can simply be cut off the board. Be sure to insert the new ROM with the notched side having the correct orientation; the socket is notched also. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.]
 

=== Repairing/Installing the Death Star 'Bar' Target ===
The yellow bar target is a problematic part on Star Wars and is not readily available. This leaf switch is attached to a unidirectional motor that raises and lowers the target. Replacement motors are readily available from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball suppliers.]]
[[File:De-sw_bracket.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Remove these four screws from the Death Star motor bracket to easily access the bar target.]]The switch and assembly can be easily removed from underneath the playfield by removing the four screws that attach the motor bracket to the playfield. The black plastic panel that the switch is attached to can be tilted and pulled away from the playfield. The target is attched to the panel by two lock nuts. The bar target switch is just a simple leaf switch so many of the techniques to rebuild that type of switch can be applied here. Make sure the two contacts of the leaf switch make good contact when the switch is pressed. You can take a business card to clean the contacts. Put a business card between the contacts, close the switch, and remove the card. You may choose to reflow the solder of the switch to insure a good connection. This is also an excellent opportunity to clean the target as well as replace the small piece of foam weatherstripping that is mounted behind the target.
 

[[File:De sw-switch.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bar motor 'up' switch. Make sure your wires are not shorted when reassembling the target]]When reassembling your switch make sure the 'prong' from the motor is inserted into the recess of the black plastic piece the bar target mounts to. Also make sure that the two switches that determine when the bar motor is either up or down are not shorted. These are some tight connections and the diode can easily be shorted to the wire. Doing so will register the switch as always open and the target will not lower or close, depending on which switch is shorted. The bar motor test in diagnostics will show this. When entering this test, holding the start button will raise and lower the target continuously. The switches should be off until the target reaches its extreme and then briefly switch to on.
 

=== Connector CN19 and locked solenoids ===
[[File:IMG 0739.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Connections on a Data East CPU.]]Connector CN19 is keyed at the center pin so this connector will fit in either direction. If put on backward you will have some locked solenoids when entering switch tests and possibly when starting a game. For example, when entering diagnostics the right slingshot will immediately lock on. The correct orientation of this connector will have the orange wires on top and the blue wires on the bottom.

File:IMG 0739.JPG

2013-01-14T03:16:34Z

Williams: Picture of connectors (CN19) on a DE:SW

Picture of connectors (CN19) on a DE:SW

Transformers

2012-01-25T04:00:47Z

Williams: Created page with "==General Information== General Information about the game goes here. ==Software== ROM images and other software goes here ==Paperwork== Manuals, schematics, coin cards... ==R..."

==General Information==
General Information about the game goes here.

==Software==
ROM images and other software goes here

==Paperwork==
Manuals, schematics, coin cards...

==Rubber Rings==
Rubber Ring Sizes goes here

==Photos==
Teardown photos go here

Stern S.A.M. System Repair

2012-01-25T03:58:55Z

Williams: /* Games */

{{WIP}}

Click to go back to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball_Repair_Guides Data East/Sega/Stern pinball repair guides index].

==Introduction==
S.A.M. is the current board system used by Stern Pinball. The first full production game to use the S.A.M. Board Set was World Poker Tour in 2006. One of the features of the S.A.M. board set is that the software can be updated with a USB stick.

==Games==
*[[World Poker Tour]]
*[[Pirates of the Caribbean]]
*[[Family Guy]]
*[[Spider Man (Stern)]]
*[[Wheel of Fortune]]
*[[Shrek]]
*[[Indiana Jones 4]]
*[[Batman (Stern)]]
*[[CSI: Crime Scene Investigation]]
*[[24]]
*[[NBA]]
*[[Big Buck Hunter Pro]]
*[[Iron Man]]
*[[Avatar]]
*[[The Rolling Stones (Stern)]]
*[[Tron]]
*[[Transformers]]

==Technical Info==
===The S.A.M. Board Set===
The S.A.M. System board set consists of three boards in back box. The I/O Power Driver Board, CPU/Sound Board, and the Display Power Supply.

===Recommended Documentation===
As always, it is highly recommended to possess a game manual. Every game manual is full of detailed information regarding game specific switch, lamp, and coil assignments. Equally, details for maneuvering through test, audit, and bookkeeping screen menus, schematics for all boards used, and game specific mechanical assemblies are included. Hard copy game manuals can be purchased through several of the recommended [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Parts_Suppliers pinball parts suppliers]. 

The [http://sternpinball.com/parts.shtml Stern Pinball, Inc.] website currently archives game manuals using the S.A.M. in part or in whole in PDF format at the time of this writing.
 

Stern Pinball also makes Technical Service Bulletins available on their website [http://sternpinball.com/Service/bulletin.aspx here]. There is an option to search by game title. The archived service bulletins (pre-2009) are [http://sternpinball.com/ServiceBulletins.shtml here].

===USB Code Update===
''Note: this information can be found on the front inside cover of S.A.M. System Game Manuals.'' 

Step 1) Open the Back Box 
Step 2) On the CPU/Sound board set Dip Switch #8 to "ON". 
Step 3) Press the white Reset Button (S1 RESET) or power cycle the game. 
Step 4) The DMD should show the current software version installed. Press the "SELECT" button on the inside of the coin door to continue. 
Step 5) Highlight the "UPDT" icon on the display and press "SELECT". 
Step 6) The game will prompt you to insert the USB Memory Stick. 
Step 7) Pick the correct file on the USB drive and press the "SELECT" Button. 
Step 8) Follow the directions on the display.

==Problems and Solutions==
===Power Problems===
===MPU boot issues===
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====
==== Repairing Battery Corrosion ====
The Stern S.A.M. system uses a single 3v lithium CR2430 "button cell" for its memory backup. These cells have very long life and are not prone to electrolyte leakage.

==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ====
==== Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing ====
===Game resets===
===Solenoid problems===
===Lamp problems===
If you have a bulb not working, seat the wiring into the IDC type socket better. I've run into a lot of these where the wires aren't seated and making good electrical contact.

===Switch problems===
If a switch isn't working. The three most common things I've seen is. 1- crappy switch, even if new. 2- if wires go into a IDC connector nearby, be sure they are seated good and making electrical contact. 3- broken wire at switch, or inside casing or harness, easy to quick check continuity of wiring.

===Display problems===
===Sound problems===
===Flipper problems===
Coils hum. The way they are power cycled causes some of this. I've also found that they get noisier with use. I then file the plunger end smooth, and the top of the coil stop smooth, where the plunger hits it. This helps a lot with noise.

===Pop bumper problems===

==References==
SAM system schematics are available on the Stern Pinball website here: http://www.sternpinball.com/schematics.shtml

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==
Stern opto boards at end of trough. And boards playfield optos plug onto. I've noticed when problems arise, to reflow the solder on the optos, and pins the connectors plug onto. This eliminates a lot of problems that arise with the optos. LTG :)

Pirates of the Caribbean. The spinning disc. Check your serial numbers with the service bulletin on Stern's website. Some of the early games need to have the bearings lubricated.

And if your artwork is worn off. I've found when you put on a new decal. To put clear non-slip bath tub stuff on top of it. It works just as good at flinging the balls. And doesn't wear off as fast and get messy all over the game like the original. And easily replaced.
LTG :)

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

If you have feature lamps not working. Check the wiring pushed into the lamp socket. I've seen more than a few where the wire isn't making good contact where it is pushed in. Easy to push in better. LTG :)

Data East/Sega

2012-01-25T03:58:08Z

Williams: /* Introduction */

{{WIP}}

Click to go back to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball_Repair_Guides Data East/Sega/Stern pinball repair guides index].

==Introduction==
[[Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards, not including satellite boards which were used such as a shaker motor driver board, a magnet control board, etc.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This board is located on the left side of the lower cabinet. Games which have more than three flippers, Baywatch and others, use two flipper control boards.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays. DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|2x 7 digit A/N, 2x 7 digit N, 1x 4 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|2x 7 digit A/N, 2x 7 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|1x16 digit A/N 2x 7 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[The_Who's_Tommy |The Who's Tommy (1/94)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|520-5080-00 (2 used)
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|520-5080-00 (2 used)
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
===The Data East Board Set===
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing. 

===Recommended Documentation===

===The Wiring Color Code===
Data East / Sega never adopted a color coding system. Instead, the wire color was marked accordingly in the associated documentation, (ie. a white wire with a blue trace is referred to as WHT-BLU, yellow with red is YEL-RED, black is just BLK, etc.).
 

===Connector Designations===
Data East / Sega did not use a board numbering system to any of the specific boards used in a game. In other words, documentation referred to boards as the following:
*PS = Power Supply
*CPU = CPU
*PPB = Playfield Power Board
*Sound = Sound Board

The naming convention for the connector on each board is notated as CNxx followed by a consecutive number, starting with "1" (ie. CN1, CN2. . .CN10, etc.).
 

===Switch Matrix===

8 x 8 switch matrix.

===Power Supply===
Data East made several revisions to their power supplies during production to support different displays and flipper combinations.

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01
:Rev A and B High Voltage section:
:*Has no resistor R17
:*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4764 and is tied to ground
:*Zener diode D11 is a 1N4743
:*Connector CN7 has three pins for unregulated 12 volts

:Rev C of the -01 board has the same changes to the high voltage section as the -02 version below.

*520-5047-02
:Differences from the high voltage section of 520-5047-01 Revision A and B:
:*Has a resistor at R17
:*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4743
:*The Zener diode at D11 is a 1N4764 tied to ground
:*Connector CN7 has five pins for unregulated 12 volts vs. the -01 version having three pins.

:The -02 power supply is backwards compatible to machines that use the -01 power supply.

*520-5047-03

===CPU Board===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02
[[File:De_cpu_520-5003-02.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Data East 520-5003-02 CPU Board from Time Machine]] 

*520-5003-03

===Playfield Power Board (PPB-1)===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

[[File:DE PPB-1 520-5021-05.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5021-05 PPB-1 Board]] 
*520-5021-05 

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers. 

[[File:Sega_Sound_520-5126-02_Front.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Sega 520-5126-02 sound Board (Front)]]
[[File:Sega Sound 520-5126-02 Back.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Sega 520-5126-02 sound Board (Back)]] 
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00. 

===Solid State Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
;Setting Free Play
:Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Boot Issues===
====Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence====
[[File:De cpu marked LEDs.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Data East CPU - Location of diagnostic LEDs]] 

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot. 

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code: 

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}
 

====Stuck Low Blanking Signal====
[[File:De cpu mark up.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Data East CPU Board - Key Circuits Identified]]
 
====Stuck Low Reset Signal====
[[File:De cpu mark up.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Data East CPU Board - Key Circuits Identified]]
 

====Connecting a Logic Probe to CPU Board====

[[File:De cpu 5v ground.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East CPU Board - 5V and Ground Test Points]]
[[File:De cpu power logic probe.JPG|right|thumb|Data East CPU Board - Logic Probe and PC Power Supply Connected]] 
Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder's upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17. Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points.
 

====Using a PC Power Supply for Bench Testing====

[[File:De cpu 5v ground.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East CPU Board - 5V and Ground Test Points]]
[[File:De cpu power logic probe.JPG|right|thumb|Data East CPU Board - Logic Probe and PC Power Supply Connected]] 
The only voltage needed to power a Data East CPU on the bench is +5VDC. Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder's upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17. Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points.
 

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====

If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board. 

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -98 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -98v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -98v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-98v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

;Outgassing Displays
:DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.
:*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
The 128x16 DMD was the first DMD used in a pinball machine and was used for five games. It was replaced by the much more familiar 128x32 display.

Sometimes this display will light but the display will appear garbled. The display will flicker and move but the output will not be readable. This can be caused by the R95 resistor on the DMD controller board going out of spec. It should be a 33k 1/2 watt resistor.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display glass is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams and can be used as a drop in replacement. However, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
The large 128x64 DMD was used in the last four Data East pinball machines. The display is a relatively expensive part to replace, costing several times as much as the more standard 128x32 DMD.

One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
[[File:flipper-before.jpg|right|thumb|Flippers at the hold position before a rebuild]] 
A flipper rebuild is one of the easier things you can do to improve the playablity of your machine. Over time the parts of a flipper will wear and need replacing. Signs of this include weak or slow flippers, flippers that do not return quickly, or flippers that travel too far. An experienced repairman can just replace the needed parts but it is far easier to buy a flipper rebuild kit from a pinball supplier. These kits will contains all the parts needed for a general flipper rebuild. Flipper coils are not included in rebuild kits but are not typically needed for a repair.

[[File:flipperparts.jpg|left|thumb|Data East Flipper Rebuild Parts - Return Spring, Plunger/Link Assembly, Coil Spring, EOS Switch, Coil Sleeve, Flipper Bushing, Coil Stop, Spring Washer]] 
Some parts are interchangable between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers due to the similarities in design. For example, coil sleeves and coil stops are the same. However the flipper bushings, although appearing similar, are not compatible. Buying a complete flipper rebuild kit for your machine will insure you get all the correct parts.
 

[[File:coilstops.jpg|right|thumb|Used and new coil stops. Excessive wear has caused the coil stop to mushroom and allow the flipper to travel too far]] 
[[File:flipperalign.jpg|right|thumb|Aligning flippers on a Data East machine]] 
These are the steps to rebuild an early Data East solid state flipper. This guide does not currently address the additional steps needed for replacing or adjusting EOS switches.

# Remove the coil stop.
# Pull the coil away from the flipper assembly. Typically the coil does not have to be replaced, so desoldering the leads is not necessary. Remove the plastic coil sleeve from the coil. This should slide out somewhat easily, but a nut driver can be used to push it out. If you cannot remove the sleeve it may have warped due to heat issues. If this is the case, replace the coil. Always replace coil sleeves when rebuilding flippers.
# Remove the return spring.
# Loosen the allen screw that holds the flipper shaft in place. The flipper can now be removed from the top of the playfield. Remove the plunger and link assembly.
# Replace the rubber stopper where the link assembly rests.
# Clean the metal parts of the flipper assembly.
# If your existing flipper has one, remove the spring holder and put in on the new link assembly. Attach one side of the new return spring to the spring holder.
# Replace the flipper from the top of the playfield.
# Loosen the flipper bolt and replace the plunger/link assembly. Do not tighten this yet.
# Attach the other end of the return spring.
# Assemble the coil. Be sure to put the end with the lugs away from the coil stop.
# Replace the coil stop and the spring washer.
# Adjust the flippers from the top of the playfield. On Data East machines the guide holes align with the tip of the flippers. Tighten the allen screw on the link assembly to hold the flipper shaft in place.
 

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair] 
[http://kcpins.com/archives/137 Data East Power Supply Rebuild] 
===Delayed or Missing Blanking Signal===
'''Time Machine CPU board''' - blanking signal would go high approximately after 7 seconds or more, (if it went high at all), after PIA diagnostic signal would go low (PIA LED would go out). For a properly functioning CPU board, the blanking signal should go high immediately after the PIA signal changes its state from high to low. 

'''Resolution:''' a bad '''AMI''' 6808 CPU chip. Beware of failing AMI chips. It is rumored that AMI chips have higher failure rates than most other manufacturers. This ultimately was a simple fix, but after extensive troubleshooting was performed first. This particular fix is more of an exception than the rule. Generally, a missing blanking signal should be isolated to the blanking generator circuitry (555 timer chip, 2N4403, etc.).

Data East/Sega

2012-01-24T04:00:38Z

Williams: /* Flipper Repair and Rebuilding */

{{WIP}}

Click to go back to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball_Repair_Guides Data East/Sega/Stern pinball repair guides index].

==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards, not including satellite boards which were used such as a shaker motor driver board, a magnet control board, etc.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This board is located on the left side of the lower cabinet. Games which have more than three flippers, Baywatch and others, use two flipper control boards.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays. DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|2x 7 digit A/N, 2x 7 digit N, 1x 4 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|2x 7 digit A/N, 2x 7 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|1x16 digit A/N 2x 7 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[The_Who's_Tommy |The Who's Tommy (1/94)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|520-5080-00 (2 used)
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|520-5080-00 (2 used)
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
===The Data East Board Set===
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing. 

===Recommended Documentation===

===The Wiring Color Code===
Data East / Sega never adopted a color coding system. Instead, the wire color was marked accordingly in the associated documentation, (ie. a white wire with a blue trace is referred to as WHT-BLU, yellow with red is YEL-RED, black is just BLK, etc.).
 

===Connector Designations===
Data East / Sega did not use a board numbering system to any of the specific boards used in a game. In other words, documentation referred to boards as the following:
*PS = Power Supply
*CPU = CPU
*PPB = Playfield Power Board
*Sound = Sound Board

The naming convention for the connector on each board is notated as CNxx followed by a consecutive number, starting with "1" (ie. CN1, CN2. . .CN10, etc.).
 

===Switch Matrix===

8 x 8 switch matrix.

===Power Supply===
Data East made several revisions to their power supplies during production to support different displays and flipper combinations.

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01
:Rev A and B High Voltage section:
:*Has no resistor R17
:*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4764 and is tied to ground
:*Zener diode D11 is a 1N4743
:*Connector CN7 has three pins for unregulated 12 volts

:Rev C of the -01 board has the same changes to the high voltage section as the -02 version below.

*520-5047-02
:Differences from the high voltage section of 520-5047-01 Revision A and B:
:*Has a resistor at R17
:*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4743
:*The Zener diode at D11 is a 1N4764 tied to ground
:*Connector CN7 has five pins for unregulated 12 volts vs. the -01 version having three pins.

:The -02 power supply is backwards compatible to machines that use the -01 power supply.

*520-5047-03

===CPU Board===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02
[[File:De_cpu_520-5003-02.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Data East 520-5003-02 CPU Board from Time Machine]] 

*520-5003-03

===Playfield Power Board (PPB-1)===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

[[File:DE PPB-1 520-5021-05.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5021-05 PPB-1 Board]] 
*520-5021-05 

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers. 

[[File:Sega_Sound_520-5126-02_Front.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Sega 520-5126-02 sound Board (Front)]]
[[File:Sega Sound 520-5126-02 Back.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Sega 520-5126-02 sound Board (Back)]] 
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00. 

===Solid State Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
;Setting Free Play
:Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Boot Issues===
====Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence====
[[File:De cpu marked LEDs.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Data East CPU - Location of diagnostic LEDs]] 

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot. 

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code: 

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}
 

====Stuck Low Blanking Signal====
[[File:De cpu mark up.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Data East CPU Board - Key Circuits Identified]]
 
====Stuck Low Reset Signal====
[[File:De cpu mark up.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Data East CPU Board - Key Circuits Identified]]
 

====Connecting a Logic Probe to CPU Board====

[[File:De cpu 5v ground.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East CPU Board - 5V and Ground Test Points]]
[[File:De cpu power logic probe.JPG|right|thumb|Data East CPU Board - Logic Probe and PC Power Supply Connected]] 
Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder's upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17. Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points.
 

====Using a PC Power Supply for Bench Testing====

[[File:De cpu 5v ground.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East CPU Board - 5V and Ground Test Points]]
[[File:De cpu power logic probe.JPG|right|thumb|Data East CPU Board - Logic Probe and PC Power Supply Connected]] 
The only voltage needed to power a Data East CPU on the bench is +5VDC. Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder's upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17. Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points.
 

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====

If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board. 

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -98 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -98v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -98v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-98v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

;Outgassing Displays
:DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.
:*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
The 128x16 DMD was the first DMD used in a pinball machine and was used for five games. It was replaced by the much more familiar 128x32 display.

Sometimes this display will light but the display will appear garbled. The display will flicker and move but the output will not be readable. This can be caused by the R95 resistor on the DMD controller board going out of spec. It should be a 33k 1/2 watt resistor.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display glass is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams and can be used as a drop in replacement. However, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
The large 128x64 DMD was used in the last four Data East pinball machines. The display is a relatively expensive part to replace, costing several times as much as the more standard 128x32 DMD.

One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
[[File:flipper-before.jpg|right|thumb|Flippers at the hold position before a rebuild]] 
A flipper rebuild is one of the easier things you can do to improve the playablity of your machine. Over time the parts of a flipper will wear and need replacing. Signs of this include weak or slow flippers, flippers that do not return quickly, or flippers that travel too far. An experienced repairman can just replace the needed parts but it is far easier to buy a flipper rebuild kit from a pinball supplier. These kits will contains all the parts needed for a general flipper rebuild. Flipper coils are not included in rebuild kits but are not typically needed for a repair.

[[File:flipperparts.jpg|left|thumb|Data East Flipper Rebuild Parts - Return Spring, Plunger/Link Assembly, Coil Spring, EOS Switch, Coil Sleeve, Flipper Bushing, Coil Stop, Spring Washer]] 
Some parts are interchangable between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers due to the similarities in design. For example, coil sleeves and coil stops are the same. However the flipper bushings, although appearing similar, are not compatible. Buying a complete flipper rebuild kit for your machine will insure you get all the correct parts.
 

[[File:coilstops.jpg|right|thumb|Used and new coil stops. Excessive wear has caused the coil stop to mushroom and allow the flipper to travel too far]] 
[[File:flipperalign.jpg|right|thumb|Aligning flippers on a Data East machine]] 
These are the steps to rebuild an early Data East solid state flipper. This guide does not currently address the additional steps needed for replacing or adjusting EOS switches.

# Remove the coil stop.
# Pull the coil away from the flipper assembly. Typically the coil does not have to be replaced, so desoldering the leads is not necessary. Remove the plastic coil sleeve from the coil. This should slide out somewhat easily, but a nut driver can be used to push it out. If you cannot remove the sleeve it may have warped due to heat issues. If this is the case, replace the coil. Always replace coil sleeves when rebuilding flippers.
# Remove the return spring.
# Loosen the allen screw that holds the flipper shaft in place. The flipper can now be removed from the top of the playfield. Remove the plunger and link assembly.
# Replace the rubber stopper where the link assembly rests.
# Clean the metal parts of the flipper assembly.
# If your existing flipper has one, remove the spring holder and put in on the new link assembly. Attach one side of the new return spring to the spring holder.
# Replace the flipper from the top of the playfield.
# Loosen the flipper bolt and replace the plunger/link assembly. Do not tighten this yet.
# Attach the other end of the return spring.
# Assemble the coil. Be sure to put the end with the lugs away from the coil stop.
# Replace the coil stop and the spring washer.
# Adjust the flippers from the top of the playfield. On Data East machines the guide holes align with the tip of the flippers. Tighten the allen screw on the link assembly to hold the flipper shaft in place.
 

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair] 
[http://kcpins.com/archives/137 Data East Power Supply Rebuild] 
===Delayed or Missing Blanking Signal===
'''Time Machine CPU board''' - blanking signal would go high approximately after 7 seconds or more, (if it went high at all), after PIA diagnostic signal would go low (PIA LED would go out). For a properly functioning CPU board, the blanking signal should go high immediately after the PIA signal changes its state from high to low. 

'''Resolution:''' a bad '''AMI''' 6808 CPU chip. Beware of failing AMI chips. It is rumored that AMI chips have higher failure rates than most other manufacturers. This ultimately was a simple fix, but after extensive troubleshooting was performed first. This particular fix is more of an exception than the rule. Generally, a missing blanking signal should be isolated to the blanking generator circuitry (555 timer chip, 2N4403, etc.).

Data East/Sega

2012-01-24T03:54:05Z

Williams: /* Flipper Repair and Rebuilding */

{{WIP}}

Click to go back to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball_Repair_Guides Data East/Sega/Stern pinball repair guides index].

==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards, not including satellite boards which were used such as a shaker motor driver board, a magnet control board, etc.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This board is located on the left side of the lower cabinet. Games which have more than three flippers, Baywatch and others, use two flipper control boards.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays. DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|2x 7 digit A/N, 2x 7 digit N, 1x 4 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|2x 7 digit A/N, 2x 7 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|1x16 digit A/N 2x 7 digit N
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[The_Who's_Tommy |The Who's Tommy (1/94)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|520-5080-00 (2 used)
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|520-5080-00 (2 used)
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
===The Data East Board Set===
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing. 

===Recommended Documentation===

===The Wiring Color Code===
Data East / Sega never adopted a color coding system. Instead, the wire color was marked accordingly in the associated documentation, (ie. a white wire with a blue trace is referred to as WHT-BLU, yellow with red is YEL-RED, black is just BLK, etc.).
 

===Connector Designations===
Data East / Sega did not use a board numbering system to any of the specific boards used in a game. In other words, documentation referred to boards as the following:
*PS = Power Supply
*CPU = CPU
*PPB = Playfield Power Board
*Sound = Sound Board

The naming convention for the connector on each board is notated as CNxx followed by a consecutive number, starting with "1" (ie. CN1, CN2. . .CN10, etc.).
 

===Switch Matrix===

8 x 8 switch matrix.

===Power Supply===
Data East made several revisions to their power supplies during production to support different displays and flipper combinations.

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01
:Rev A and B High Voltage section:
:*Has no resistor R17
:*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4764 and is tied to ground
:*Zener diode D11 is a 1N4743
:*Connector CN7 has three pins for unregulated 12 volts

:Rev C of the -01 board has the same changes to the high voltage section as the -02 version below.

*520-5047-02
:Differences from the high voltage section of 520-5047-01 Revision A and B:
:*Has a resistor at R17
:*The Zener diode at D10 is a 1N4743
:*The Zener diode at D11 is a 1N4764 tied to ground
:*Connector CN7 has five pins for unregulated 12 volts vs. the -01 version having three pins.

:The -02 power supply is backwards compatible to machines that use the -01 power supply.

*520-5047-03

===CPU Board===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02
[[File:De_cpu_520-5003-02.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Data East 520-5003-02 CPU Board from Time Machine]] 

*520-5003-03

===Playfield Power Board (PPB-1)===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

[[File:DE PPB-1 520-5021-05.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East 520-5021-05 PPB-1 Board]] 
*520-5021-05 

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers. 

[[File:Sega_Sound_520-5126-02_Front.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Sega 520-5126-02 sound Board (Front)]]
[[File:Sega Sound 520-5126-02 Back.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Sega 520-5126-02 sound Board (Back)]] 
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00. 

===Solid State Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
;Setting Free Play
:Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Boot Issues===
====Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence====
[[File:De cpu marked LEDs.JPG|thumb|200px|left|Data East CPU - Location of diagnostic LEDs]] 

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot. 

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code: 

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}
 

====Stuck Low Blanking Signal====
[[File:De cpu mark up.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Data East CPU Board - Key Circuits Identified]]
 
====Stuck Low Reset Signal====
[[File:De cpu mark up.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Data East CPU Board - Key Circuits Identified]]
 

====Connecting a Logic Probe to CPU Board====

[[File:De cpu 5v ground.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East CPU Board - 5V and Ground Test Points]]
[[File:De cpu power logic probe.JPG|right|thumb|Data East CPU Board - Logic Probe and PC Power Supply Connected]] 
Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder's upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17. Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points.
 

====Using a PC Power Supply for Bench Testing====

[[File:De cpu 5v ground.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Data East CPU Board - 5V and Ground Test Points]]
[[File:De cpu power logic probe.JPG|right|thumb|Data East CPU Board - Logic Probe and PC Power Supply Connected]] 
The only voltage needed to power a Data East CPU on the bench is +5VDC. Data East CPU boards have the +5V and ground test points located just above the battery holder's upper right corner and to the left of connection CN17. Connections can be made to the appropriate pins on CN17, but it is much easier just to use the test points.
 

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====

If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board. 

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -98 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -98v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -98v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-98v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

;Outgassing Displays
:DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.
:*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
The 128x16 DMD was the first DMD used in a pinball machine and was used for five games. It was replaced by the much more familiar 128x32 display.

Sometimes this display will light but the display will appear garbled. The display will flicker and move but the output will not be readable. This can be caused by the R95 resistor on the DMD controller board going out of spec. It should be a 33k 1/2 watt resistor.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display glass is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams and can be used as a drop in replacement. However, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
The large 128x64 DMD was used in the last four Data East pinball machines. The display is a relatively expensive part to replace, costing several times as much as the more standard 128x32 DMD.

One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
[[File:flipper-before.jpg|right|thumb|Flippers at the hold position before a rebuild]] 
A flipper rebuild is one of the easier things you can do to improve the playablity of your machine. Over time the parts of a flipper will wear and need replacing. Signs of this include weak or slow flippers, flippers that do not return quickly, or flippers that travel too far. An experienced repairman can just replace the needed parts but it is far easier to buy a flipper rebuild kit from a pinball supplier. These kits will contains all the parts needed for a general flipper rebuild. Flipper coils are not included in rebuild kits but are not typically needed for a repair.

[[File:flipperparts.jpg|left|thumb|Data East Flipper Rebuild Parts - Return Spring, Plunger/Link Assembly, Coil Spring, EOS Switch, Coil Sleeve, Flipper Bushing, Coil Stop, Lock Washer]] 
Some parts are interchangable between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers due to the similarities in design. For example, coil sleeves and coil stops are the same. However the flipper bushings, although appearing similar, are not compatible. Buying a complete flipper rebuild kit for your machine will insure you get all the correct parts.
 

[[File:coilstops.jpg|right|thumb|Used and new coil stops. Excessive wear has caused the coil stop to mushroom and allow the flipper to travel too far]] 
[[File:flipperalign.jpg|right|thumb|Aligning flippers on a Data East machine]] 
These are the steps to rebuild an early Data East solid state flipper. This guide does not currently address the additional steps needed for replacing or adjusting EOS switches.

# Remove the coil stop.
# Pull the coil away from the flipper assembly. Typically the coil does not have to be replaced, so desoldering the leads is not necessary. Remove the plastic coil sleeve from the coil. This should slide out somewhat easily, but a nut driver can be used to push it out. If you cannot remove the sleeve it may have warped due to heat issues. If this is the case, replace the coil. Always replace coil sleeves when rebuilding flippers.
# Remove the return spring.
# Loosen the allen screw that holds the flipper shaft in place. The flipper can now be removed from the top of the playfield. Remove the plunger and link assembly.
# Replace the plastic flipper bushing.
# Clean the metal parts of the flipper assembly.
# If your existing flipper has one, remove the spring holder and put in on the new link assembly. Attach one side of the new return spring to the spring holder.
# Replace the plastic bushing. A 1/4 nut driver can help with this.
# Replace the flipper from the top of the playfield.
# Loosen the flipper bolt and replace the plunger/link assembly. Do not tighten this yet.
# Attach the other end of the return spring.
# Assemble the coil. Be sure to put the end with the lugs away from the coil stop.
# Replace the coil stop and the lock washer.
# Adjust the flippers from the top of the playfield. On Data East machines the guide holes align with the tip of the flippers. Tighten the allen screw on the link assembly to hold the flipper shaft in place.
 

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair] 
[http://kcpins.com/archives/137 Data East Power Supply Rebuild] 
===Delayed or Missing Blanking Signal===
'''Time Machine CPU board''' - blanking signal would go high approximately after 7 seconds or more, (if it went high at all), after PIA diagnostic signal would go low (PIA LED would go out). For a properly functioning CPU board, the blanking signal should go high immediately after the PIA signal changes its state from high to low. 

'''Resolution:''' a bad '''AMI''' 6808 CPU chip. Beware of failing AMI chips. It is rumored that AMI chips have higher failure rates than most other manufacturers. This ultimately was a simple fix, but after extensive troubleshooting was performed first. This particular fix is more of an exception than the rule. Generally, a missing blanking signal should be isolated to the blanking generator circuitry (555 timer chip, 2N4403, etc.).

File:Flipperalign.jpg

2012-01-24T03:45:02Z

Williams: Data East flipper alignment

Data East flipper alignment

File:Coilstops.jpg

2012-01-24T03:44:42Z

Williams: new and used coil stops

new and used coil stops

File:Flipper-before.jpg

2012-01-24T03:44:18Z

Williams: Before a flipper rebuild

Before a flipper rebuild

File:Flipperparts.jpg

2012-01-24T03:43:46Z

Williams: Parts of a Data East flipper rebuild kit

Parts of a Data East flipper rebuild kit

Stern Pinball

2011-09-13T21:50:13Z

Williams: Moved info from other orphaned page

{{WIP}}

{{Infobox
|image = [[Image:Stern Logo.jpg|200px]]
|caption = Stern Pinball's Current Logo
|header1 = Stern Pinball
|data2 = '''Manufacturing:'''
1986 - current
|data3 = '''Manufacturing Under Current Name:'''
1999 - current
|data4 = '''Titles'''
42
}}

==A Brief History of Data East/Sega/Stern Pinball==
Data East was formed in 1976 as a company that designed a system to allow arcade operators to easily switch their games by utilizing magnetic tapes. They began publishing arcade games in 1978 and were very successful. The Data East pinball division was formed in 1985. Although Data East pinball was led by Gary Stern and employed many former Stern employees it was an [http://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec.games.pinball/JSlgPA13cQI/5NcnjDe7JS0J independently formed division] and was never a part of Stern Electronics. The first pinball machine released under the Data East name was Laser War in March 1987. Although Data East hardware is very derivative of Williams System 11 they pioneered some technologies such as the dot matrix display and stereo sound.

Machines were manufactured under the Data East name until late 1995. Sega Electronics bought Data East pinball and released its first game, Apollo 13, in October 1995. Sega continued to manufacture machines for several years until [http://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec.games.pinball/EUuVY_Qk7j0/2SmpZUyptOYJ Gary Stern repurchased] the pinball division of Sega and formed [http://www.sternpinball.com Stern Pinball] in the fall of 1999.

Data East/Sega

2011-06-30T22:21:36Z

Williams: /* Ease-A-Just */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This is located in the playfield cabinet.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays. DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[The_Who's_Tommy |The Who's Tommy (1/94)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
;Setting Free Play
:Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

;Outgassing Displays
:DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.
:*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
The 128x16 DMD was the first DMD used in a pinball machine and was used for five games. It was replaced by the much more familiar 128x32 display.

Sometimes this display will light but the display will appear garbled. The display will flicker and move but the output will not be readable. This can be caused by the R95 resistor on the DMD controller board going out of spec. It should be a 33k 1/2 watt resistor.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display glass is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams and can be used as a drop in replacement. However, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
The large 128x64 DMD was used in the last four Data East pinball machines. The display is a relatively expensive part to replace, costing several times as much as the more standard 128x32 DMD.

One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-30T15:01:54Z

Williams: /* 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This is located in the playfield cabinet.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays. DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[The_Who's_Tommy |The Who's Tommy (1/94)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

;Outgassing Displays
:DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.
:*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
The 128x16 DMD was the first DMD used in a pinball machine and was used for five games. It was replaced by the much more familiar 128x32 display.

Sometimes this display will light but the display will appear garbled. The display will flicker and move but the output will not be readable. This can be caused by the R95 resistor on the DMD controller board going out of spec. It should be a 33k 1/2 watt resistor.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display glass is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams and can be used as a drop in replacement. However, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
The large 128x64 DMD was used in the last four Data East pinball machines. The display is a relatively expensive part to replace, costing several times as much as the more standard 128x32 DMD.

One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-30T14:59:02Z

Williams: /* Score Display Issues */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This is located in the playfield cabinet.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays. DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[The_Who's_Tommy |The Who's Tommy (1/94)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

;Outgassing Displays
:DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.
:*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
The 128x16 DMD was the first DMD used in a pinball machine and was used for five games. It was replaced by the much more familiar 128x32 display.

Sometimes this display will light but the display will appear garbled. The display will flicker and move but the output will not be readable. This can be caused by the R95 resistor on the DMD controller board going out of spec. It should be a 33k 1/2 watt resistor.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display glass is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams and can be used as a drop in replacement. However, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

General

2011-06-30T14:49:26Z

Williams: /* Flippers */

=Introduction=

This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.

= Parts to have on hand =
'''All Machines'''
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.

'''Electromechanical Machines'''

'''Solid State Machines'''

*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a general replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.
*TIP-102 Transistors
*IN4004 Diodes
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most flexible)

=Tools of the Trade=

You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.

==Mechanical Tools==
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy
*Nut driver set, which should include
**1/4" (red) nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts
**5/16 (yellow) nut driver - used for #6 nuts
**11/32 (green) nut driver - #8 nuts
**3/8 nut (blue) driver - used for #10 nuts
**OPTION: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts
**OPTION: 24" 1/4" nutdriver. If the almighty repaired pinballs, he'd use one of these.
**OPTION: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit. Really makes quick work of standard screws. Don't overtighten.
**Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nutdrivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.
*Wrenches or one 4" adjustable end wrench
**3/8 wrench - used for tightening flipper pawls. UPGRADE: gear wrench...excellent for WPC flipper nuts
**5/8 wrench - used for leg bolts UPGRADE: gear wrench
*Pliers
*High-brightness LED flashlight
*Magnetic pickup tool
*Magnetic parts dish
*Hemostats (clamps that look a bit like scissors, for soldering)

== Electrical Tools ==

*A few alligator clip leads for testing
*Digital Multimeter (DMM) with diode test function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands. Auto-ranging meters are much easier. With meters, you get what you pay for.
*Side cutters
*Wire stripper
*For newer, solid state machines, a logic probe can be very useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.
*For Connector Work
**Connector crimpers - the cheap stamped ones are pretty much useless. See below...
**Connector pin pusher .093"
**Connector pin pusher .062"

'''Molex Crimper Styles'''

[[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style.
 

==Soldering Irons==

Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.

Portable:

These butane powered irons let you work pretty much anywhere. But they also get very hot, and can therefore easily overheat the joint and produce poor results. Don't use them on boards.
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class) 
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller) 
Corded:
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade) 
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade) 
Station:
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)

==Desoldering Tools==

A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.

There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.

Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.

Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.

==Rework Solder Stations==

*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) 
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder ectractor)

==EM Tools==

*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.

==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==
In work

=Soldering=

Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering.

NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!

==Equipment and Supplies==

===The basic soldering iron===
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. Once example is the Weller WESD-51.

===Tip Cleaner===
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.

===Solder===
A wide range of solders are available. Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. For completing clean "OEM-like" solder joints, a "no clean" solder like Kester .031 diameter 63/37 no-clean solder, Kester part number 24-6337-5400, can be used. As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. Here is one supplier of Kester "no-clean" solder: [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life]

===Optional Equipment===
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.

==Soldering wires==
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything.

Here are the simple steps:

#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool.

As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts down the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or clamps are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, the solder connection will end up with what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.

'''Things to Know'''

*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and you will have a bad joint.
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. So once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, simply melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that hooking the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.

== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.

Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult.

The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.

<still work in progress>

==Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"==
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.

A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.

[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]] 
'''Procedure''': 
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch". 
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough. 
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire. 
#Solder the first side of the stitch. 
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch. 
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place. 
#All done!
 

=Desoldering=
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each

Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts

=Testing an integrated circuit=

Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.

This test works for any 74XX series IC.

[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]
'''Procedure''':
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test.
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if having to test multiple chips on the same board.
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.
 

'''Interpreting the results:'''
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK. 
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics. 
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip. 
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.
*Comparing your results against test results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.
 

Readings outside of this range my indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.
 

Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.
 

=Testing fuses=
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.

One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".

Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.

This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.

Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.

=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=

<Note: this is an experimental article layout...still thinking about it a bit and I have some content I'll upload this weekend....Chris Hibler> 
<need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...> 
<MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1> 
<need to add a separate section on FETs> 
<need to add a separate section on SCRs> 

A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used excepct for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators.

When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own.

Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)

[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]

Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC
*TO-202, such as a MPS-U45 (or replacement CEN-U45) as found on Gottlieb driver boards
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)

Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.

Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout. 
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''. 
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).

'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor
#Probe each of the legs with the '''red''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)
#Place the '''red''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)
#Place the '''red''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''red''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''red''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
#Probe the center leg with the red lead
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.

'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)
#Place the '''red''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
#Probe the center leg with the black lead
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.

=Testing a coil=

If a driver transistor shorts on, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil wire gets hot enough, it will burn out its plastic coating, shorting the wires and dropping the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the broken driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged.

If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is very wise to check each coil's resistance *before* switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it!

Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power coil and a hold coil. These are normally identified as having three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.

==Testing resistance==
To test a coil's resistance:
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs.
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault.
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (ie the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or driver transistor issue.

It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before replacing it and powering on again.

==Testing for coil power==
With the machine powered on:
* set your DMM to DC
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one).
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-60v.

Please note that some games have a door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids or may only supply power to the coils during test/game modes.

==Testing the coil diode==
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.

To test a coil diode:

* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.
* Place the black lead on the non-banded side.
* Place the red lead on the banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'

==Testing the driver transistors==
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" at [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.

=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=
Need to cover... 
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs) 
SOIC to DIP adapters 

==Resistor Networks==
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.

Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.

<center>
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations">
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center>Bussed Resistor Network</center>
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center>Isolated Resistor Network</center>
</gallery>
</center>
 
[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.

Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors. 

Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1. 
<need a picture of this>

=The Switch Matrix=
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.

The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required.

'''How a switch matrix works'''

Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.

Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse).

A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines. 

<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center>
 

'''General Switch Matrix Debugging Tips'''

Switch matrix problem diagnosis always begins with determining whether the problem is on the CPU or on the playfield.

Under construction... 
Discuss using a diode/jumper to connect row and column at the CPU board. 
Discuss finding the "at fault" switch if the problem is on the PF. 
Insert animation created by Hibler/Palson here. 

=The Lamp Matrix=

Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).

Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.

'''How the lamp matrix works'''

A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.

The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.

The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.

'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''

#Fewer wires
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.

'''Lamp matrix problems'''

#Single lamp out
#Single lamp locked on
#multiple lamps in a row
#multiple lamps in a column
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not

'''Typical causes'''

#Wiring shorts
#Shorted diode(s)

=How coils are driven=

Under construction... 
Discuss "finding ground" via a controlled transistor to turn on a coil.

Every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at the coils lugs. All that is required is for the ground lug of coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor.

=Flippers=

;How does a flipper work?
:Flippers typically have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the fuse to blow.

;High Voltage flipper operation
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.

:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.

:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.

:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.

;Solid State Flipper operation
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.

:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.

:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.

=Coil Chart=

Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.

=Lamp Chart=

{| class="wikitable sortable"
!Lamp
!Voltage (V)
!Current(A)
!Candle Power
!Life (hours)
!Base
!Typical Use
|----
|44
|6.3
|0.25
|0.9
|3,000
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)
|Common GI bulb
|----
|47
|6.3
|0.15
|0.5
|3,000
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power
|----
|55
|7.0
|.41
|2.00
|500
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47
|----
|67
|13.5
|.59
|4.0
|5,000
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)
|F-14 Tomcat Flash Lamps
|----
|73
|14.0
|.80
|.30
|15,000
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism
|----
|86
|6.3
|.20
|.40
|15,000
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism
|----
|89
|13.0
|.58
|6.00
|750
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC
|----
|194
|14.0
|.27
|2.00
|1,500
|Wedge
|Whitewater Topper Lamps
|----
|199
|12.8
|2.25
|32.00
|1500
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)
|HS2 Getaway Topper Lamp, CFTBL Hologram Lamp
|----
|313
|28
|0.17
|3.5
|500
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House
|----
|447
|6.3
|0.15
|0.5
|3,000
|Wedge
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power
|----
|455
|6.5
|0.5
|N/A
|500
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)
|Blinker
|----
|545
|6.5
|0.31
|N/A
|500
|Wedge
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers
|----
|555
|6.3
|0.25
|0.9
|3,000
|Wedge
|Common GI bulb
|----
|906
|13.0
|.69
|6.00
|1000
|T-5 Wedge
|Flash Lamp
|----
|1251
|28.0
|.23
|3.00
|2,000
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps
|----
|1683
|28.0
|1.02
|32.00
|500
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)
|High Speed Topper Lamp
|----
|}

Notes:
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter

Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.

=Lamp Sockets=

=Fuse Table=

<center>'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center>

{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 5A
| BR, DC coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB
| Drop target bank
| width="4%" align="center" | 6
| 10A
| Main, BR, coils
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 8A
| Main line fuse
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Main line fuse
| width="4%" align="center" | 6
| 15A
| Lamps, coils
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| 10A
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| 10A
| Lamps
| width="4%" align="center" |
|
|
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| 15A
| Lamps
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| 15A
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" |
|
|
|- align="left"
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 3
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB
| Coils-under PF
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB
| Displays
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB
| Service outlet
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB
| Main line power
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB
| Coils
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Main power
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 3/16A
| High Voltage on SDB
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB
| Drop target bank
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 3/4A
| Display power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Main, coils, lamps
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 4A
| 12v/5v power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 8A
| Lamps
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB
| PS, lamps, displays
| width="4%" align="center" | 3
| 5A
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 10A
| Lamps
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 15A
| General Illumination
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 20A
| Switched Lamps
|
|
|
|-
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB
| Display high voltage
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB
| Power supply (displays)
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB
| Display driver board
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 3
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 5
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB
| Aux board
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB
| Coils, flippers
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB
| Sound board
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 3
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Power supply, lamps
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| 5v power (L7 games)
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB
| Coils, flippers
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| Power supply
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 8A
| Main, switched lamps
| width="4%" align="center" | 6
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 3/4A
| 12v power supply
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 20A
| General illumination
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 8A
| Main, switched lamps
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 1/10A
| Cabinet, displays
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 3/4A
| 12v power supply
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 8A
| Main, switched lamps
|
|
|
|-
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega & New Stern'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 3
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB
| Coils, flippers
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB
| Display
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB
| Display
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB
| Coils, flippers
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB
| 12v PS F101
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Lamps, power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 5
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Coils, lamps
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB
| Switched lamps, line
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB
| Line, power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB
| Coils main F108
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB
| Power line, lamps
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| T2.5A
| Audio F501, F502
|}

=Game Software (ROMs)=
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features and these home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]

Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement.

Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.

Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.

=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=

==Leveling the Game==
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After your done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.

==Adjusting the Game Pitch==
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.

:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.

==Balls==
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.

:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.

==Adjusting flippers==
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.

:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.

:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.

:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.

:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.

==Adjusting drop targets==
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well).

:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.

:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.

:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their design, so there are 2 discrete springs used to pull the drops in the proper directions to reset correctly, and provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.

:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.

:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place, just be sure it doesn't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.

:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.

:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chichlet" style for over 25 years.

:Classic Stern drops were originally similar to the "tombstone" Bally style (they're called "chichlets"), and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the pf, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.

:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.

:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.

==Tweaking a pop bumper==
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.

:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.

:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.

:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.

:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.

:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.

==Tuning a spinner==
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.

:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 200 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.

:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.

:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.

:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.

:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.

==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==
:Most would ask why you would want to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.

:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.

:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.

:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).

:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.

:Shaking a pin is a part of the game, and possibly the greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.

==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).

:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.

:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.

:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.

==Tweaking lane guides==
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.

:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.

:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.

:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size small then needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.

:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.

:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.

:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or have its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.

==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.

:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.

==Plungers==
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.

:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.

:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.

:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a different tension to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.

==Coil Sleeves==
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will just gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.

:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid.

==Connectors and Soldering==
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems.

:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Resoldering the header pins will fix this issue and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.

:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.

==Slingshots==
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.

:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back.

:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.

:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is twofold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling).

:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. You will usually see some slop in a sling mech if it's excessive power will be lost laterally on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or try and find small nylon washers to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.

:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).

==Standup/stationary Targets==
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.

:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bend so the target becomes leaning backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.

:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes.

Talk:Pinball Tools

2011-06-29T02:02:10Z

Williams:

I think the 'Tools of the Trade' section on the General page could be merged into this section and we could add a link under the 'Parts to Have on Hand' to this tools page. Any thoughts? - williams 6/27/11

Agreed Aaron. I had a bit more cleanup to do in those two sections. I had merged similar information but didn't quite get all of it organized. I can take care of that. - Chris Hibler, 6/28/2011

Done! - Chris Hibler, 6/28/2011

Looks good. Should we delete the old pinball tools page and link? - williams 6/28/11

Talk:Pinball Tools

2011-06-28T03:21:16Z

Williams: Created page with "I think the 'Tools of the Trade' section on the General page could be merged into this section and we could add a link under the 'Parts to Have on Hand' to this tools page. Any ..."

Williams WPC

2011-06-25T04:02:33Z

Williams: /* Lowering the Minimum Volume */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
This guide covers Williams WPC, WPC-S, and WPC-95 games.

==Game List==

==='''WPC (Alphanumeric)'''===
*[[Funhouse]]
*[[Harley-Davidson]]
*[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot]]

==='''WPC (Dot Matrix)'''===
*[[Gilligan's Island]]
*[[Terminator 2: Judgement Day]]
*[[Hurricane]]
*[[Party Zone]]

===WPC Fliptronics I & II===
*[[The Addams Family]] / Addams Family Gold
*[[The Getaway: High Speed II]]
*[[Black Rose]]
*[[Fish Tales]]
*[[Doctor Who]]
*[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]
*[[White Water]]
*[[Bram Stoker's Dracula]]
*[[Twilight Zone]]

==='''WPC DCS Sound'''===
*[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]
*[[Judge Dredd]]
*[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]
*[[Popeye Saves The Earth]]
*[[Demolition Man]]

==='''WPC-S CPU'''===
*[[World Cup Soccer]]
*[[The Flintstones]]
*[[Corvette]]
*[[Red & Ted Road Show]]
*[[The Shadow]]
*[[Dirty Harry]]
*[[Theatre of Magic]]
*[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports]]
*[[Indianapolis 500]]
*[[Johnny Mnemonic]]
*[[Jack*Bot]]
*[[WHO Dunnit]]

==='''WPC-95 CPU'''===
*[[Congo]]
*[[Attack from Mars]]
*[[Safecracker]]
*[[Tales of the Arabian Nights]]
*[[Scared Stiff]]
*[[Junk Yard]]
*[[NBA Fastbreak]]
*[[Medieval Madness]]
*[[Cirqus Voltaire]]
*[[No Good Gofers]]
*[[The Championship Pub]]
*[[Monster Bash]]
*[[Cactus Canyon]]

==Technical Info==
Motorola 68B09E, running at 2Mhz. It is an 8-bit/16-bit CPU with a 64KB address space. Bank switching is required to address more than 64KB. The game ROM size varies from 128KB to 1MB, depending on the game. 8KB of battery backed RAM is available.

For more information, see [http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc/manual/The-WPC-Hardware.html#The-WPC-Hardware The FreeWPC Manual]
===[[WPC Transformers|'''The WPC Transformer''']]===
===[[The WPC System Boardset and History]]===
----
===WPC CPU Generations===
====[[WPC CPU]]====
====[[WPC-S CPU]]====
====[[WPC-95 CPU]]====
----
===WPC Power/Driver Board Generations===
====[[WPC-089 Power/Driver Board]]====
====WPC-95 Power/Driver Board====
----
===[[WPC Dot Matrix Controller board]]===

===WPC Sound Boards===
====[[WPC pre-DCS Sound Board]]====
====[[WPC DCS Sound Board]]====
====[[WPC-95 AV Board]]====
----
===WPC Fliptronics Boards===
====[[WPC Fliptronics I board]]====
====[[WPC Fliptronics II board]]====
----
===Miscellaneous WPC Boards===
Note: Some of these might best be located in the "Game Specific Problems & Fixes" section. Perhaps the pervasiveness of their use within the WPC game list would drive the decision.
====[[WPC 7 Opto Board]]====
====[[WPC 10 Opto Board]]====
====[[WPC 16 Opto Board]]====

====[[Auxiliary 8-Driver Board]]====

====[[Trough opto boards]]====
====[[WH2O & CFTBL chaser lamp boards]]====
====[[HSII & CFTBL triac board]]====
====Coin Door Interface Board====

If your coin door interface board gets dusty from flipper parts wearing, clean it. That dust conducts electricity and will give you some interesting coinage issues.

==Problems and Solutions==
===MPU boot issues===
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====
Relocating the 3xAA battery pack from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of MPU boards. Simply removing the batteries is not an option with WPC games as you will always receive a "Factory Settings Restored" message when the game boots.

Options:
#Remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won't leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board. Replace the batteries annually, dating them with a Sharpie! as you do.
#Replace the 6264 static RAM with a SIMTEK non-volatile RAM (STK12C68). These SIMTEK RAM chips are increasingly hard to find but offer a nice alternative to changing batteries annually. This method requires desoldering/soldering on the MPU and also has the down-side of not maintaining the Real Time Clock (meaningless in some games...nice in games like Twilight Zone that moves the playfield "toy" clock to the current time during attract mode, and Who?Dunnit which has a "Midnight Madness" feature.

==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====
===Game resets===
====[[A disciplined process to eliminate WPC game resets]]====
===Check fuses F114 and F115 message===
This message is sometimes displayed when the game boots and a game cannot be started. Most of the time, F114/F115 will be found to be just fine.

The game issues this message because it cannot read the switch matrix normally. The crafty designers at Williams inserted an “always closed“ switch into the matrix as switch 24. Switch 24 isn’t a switch at all, but instead provides the game software with a “known closed” switch matrix return. Switch 24 is actually a diode across column 2, row 4 of the switch matrix and is located on the coin door interface board.

Since the WPC switch matrix circuitry on the MPU uses 12V to determine switch state, the game assumes that the 12VDC power has been interrupted. F114/F115 fuse the 12V generation circuit; F114 on the AC side of BR1; F115 on the DC side of BR1. Hence, the game assumes that one of these fuses is blown and the message is displayed.

'''Diagnosing the problem'''

Start by checking DC voltage at TP3. You should see about 12VDC. If not, follow these steps.

#Actually check fuses F114 and F115 using the procedure [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_fuses| here]]. If a blown fuse is found, replace it. If F114 immediately blows again, then BR1 is probably shorted. Skip to the paragraph below to test the bridge.
#Check LED6. If not lit (indicating the absence of 18V at TP8), then suspect BR1 or the filter caps for BR1, C6 and C7. If BR1 had failed shorted or if C6 or C7 where shorted (rare) then you would expect to see F114 blown. BR1 can be tested using the procedure below.
#Check LED1. If not lit (indicating the absence of “digital” 12V at TP3, then test D1 and D2 (both 1N4004 diodes). If D1/D2 test good, then check continuity from pin 2 of the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2 to J114, pin 1. This verifies the path through F115.
#If this all checks out, yet 12VDC is still not at TP3, then suspect the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2. Q2 is in a TO-220 package (like a TIP-102) and has a small heat sink attached.

If TP3 does, in fact, have 12VDC present, then we need to dig deeper.

#First check for 12VDC on the CPU board to ensure that the 12V is getting to the board via the 2 (and possibly 4 if your game has a “Z-Connector”) connectors that carry the 12VDC. An easy place to measure 12VDC on the CPU is at pin 10 of the ULN2803 (U20). Pin 10 is on the bottom row of pins, furthest left. Note that this connection (an also the 12VDC connection to pin 3 of the LM339s) is not shown on the schematic.
#If the CPU is receiving 12VDC, and you still have the “Check fuses F114 and F115” message, then the problem lies within the CPUs switch matrix logic circuitry.
#Prime candidates for CPU switch matrix failure are U20 (a ULN2803), the two LM339s at U18 and U19, the 74LS374 at U14, and the 74LS240 at U13. All of these ICs are in the “corrosion zone” caused by leaky alkaline batteries. If your CPU exhibits the “blue/green fuzzies”, address the alkaline damage first.
#Testing the 74LSXXX ICs is simple using the procedure [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit| here]].
#If coil power, flasher power, or even lamp power was somehow shorted to the switch matrix, there is a near 100% probability that the ULN2803 at U20 has been damaged. There is no good way to test the ULN2803 other than using a logic probe with the game powered on. Both the input side and the output side of the ULN2803 should be toggling between logic 0 and logic 1. If not, socket and replace the ULN2803.

[[File:Test-br.jpg|160px|thumb|left|Checking an uninstalled bridge rectifier]]
'''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.'''
#Place your DMM into "diode test".
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge.
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes).
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge.
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen.

Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc).
 

[[File:Wpc-br.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The heat sink covering BR1 and BR2 on a WPC-board]]
Take special care when replacing a bridge rectifier. It is easy to lift the traces of the plated through holes when removing these. After removing the heat sink, cut the old bridge rectifier off of the board close to the top leaving as much of the lug as possible. Then add a small amount of solder to the connection on the solder side to improve heat transfer. Finally apply the iron to the solder side to heat the joint and remove the remaining lug with small pliers.

When replacing the new bridge rectifier you should remove the old thermal compound and apply a new thin layer. The old compound can be removed with a little rubbing alcohol. Apply the thermal compound to the top of the bridge rectifiers and reattach the heat sink with the screws. It is much easier to replace the heat sink before resoldering the new bridge rectifier. Make sure that the heatsink is sitting flush with the tops of the bridge rectifiers and that you leave about a 5/8" gap between the bridge rectifier and the board to improve air flow.

Splitting the heat sink between BR1 and BR2 was at one time thought to improve reliability. This is no longer considered a best practice and is not recommended.

More info about replacing bridge rectifiers can be found in the section regarding [[A_disciplined_process_to_eliminate_WPC_game_resets#Failed_Bridge_Rectifier| system resets.]]
 

[[File:Wps-diodes.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diodes replaced BR1 and BR2 on WPC-95 boards]]
In WPC-95 games, BR1 and BR2 were replaced by a series of diodes. D11-D14 replaced BR1. D7-D10 replaced BR2. These are much less prone to failure. Still, they do fail on occasion. If they fail, it's best to replace all four in the "gang".
 

===Voltage Problems - LED2 & LED3===

LED2 and LED3 on the Power Driver Board are indicators for the line voltage detection circuit. On on-board comparator circuit uses +5V and +18V to check the line voltage. The comparator consists of a resistor voltage divider and an LM339 comparator.

The following table shows how to interpret the LED states. Note that other problems with the +18V or +5V supply could cause a high or low line voltage indication.

Line Voltage Indicator Chart
{| class="wikitable"
!LED2
!LED3
!Voltage
|-
|On || Off || OK
|-
|Off || Off || High
|-
|On || On || Low
|}

===Solenoid & Flasher problems===
Before proceeding to diagnose solenoid or flasher problems, see this section: [[General#How are coils driven?| How coils and flashers are turned on]]
===Lamp problems===

Lamps (or globes for those of you in the UK) fall into two categories. "General Illumination" and "Controlled Lamps". Your game probably has other lamps which are actually "flashers" that require an 89 or 906 bulb. Flashers are covered elsewhere in this Wiki.

General illumination lamps (GI) provide the ambient lighting for the playfield, backbox, and coin door. These lamps are list most of the time. The only "controllable" aspect of these lamps is their brightness.

Controlled lamps are under complete CPU control via the lamp matrix. These lamps illuminate the various "features" of the game such as mode inserts, pop bumper lamps, inlane/outlane insert lamps, etc.

====General Illumination Problems====

'''Background'''

The WPC power/driver board provides 5 GI circuits under CPU "brightness control". The WPC-95 power/driver board provides 3 GI circuits under CPU "brightness" control and 2 circuits that are always powered. Those two circuits are always connected to the backbox lamps.

GI power is provided by the transformer in the form of 6.3VAC at power/driver board connector J115. Although there are five pairs of wires, they are all connected together at the transformer. One side of the AC GI circuit on the power/driver board is fused by F106 through F110 which are all 5ASB fuses. This side runs to the GI lamps, and carries 6.3VAC to the backbox, playfield, and coin door via power driver board connectors J120, J121, and J119 respectively. J119 is a 3-pin header that is always connected to the coin door lamps. J120 and J121 are electrically and physically identical (keyed at pin 4) and therefore can be connected to either the female playfield GI connector or the female backbox GI connector without care. The other side of the GI AC feed is connected to ground.

The GI power is controlled by a triac in the return line from the playfield. When these triacs are off, no current passes and the lamps are off. When the triac is turned on, the GI lamps glow. The triac is a slightly special part - it must be a "four sector" triac. This means that it can switch both positive and negative sides of the AC cycle with only a positive signal.

Each triac is switched on/off by a 2N5401 transistor which is controlled by U1, a 74LS374, an octal D-Type Flip-Flop with three state outputs (a fancy way of saying that the device is an 8-bit data buffer).

The CPU can dim the GI by switching on the GI for only parts of the AC waveform. To do this, it uses a zero crossing signal generated from the 6.5VAC that feeds the 5V circuit.

Wire colors to J115 during the early WPC games were always yellow (AC) and yellow-white (AC return). Pin 1 of J115 provides the "ground reference". Later WPC games used different wire colors at J115 and instead of "looping" power through the connector at J115, connected two wires to the same pin at the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.

J119 is always keyed at pin2, with a white-Violet wire at pin 1 and a Violet wire at pin 3

J120 and J121 are 11 pin connectors. Wire color/positions (when used) are identical for all WPC games and are shown in the table.

{| class="wikitable"
!<center> Pin </center>
! Wire color at J120/J121 
|-
|<center>1</center> ||  Brown
|-
|<center>2</center> ||  Orange
|-
|<center>3</center> ||  Yellow (yellow)
|-
|<center>4</center> ||  Key
|-
|<center>5</center> ||  Green
|-
|<center>6</center> ||  Violet
|-
|<center>7</center> ||  White-Brown
|-
|<center>8</center> ||  White-Orange
|-
|<center>9</center> ||  White-Yellow (yellow)
|-
|<center>10</center> ||  White-Green
|-
|<center>11</center> ||  White-Violet
|}

'''Common GI Problem Causes''' (listed by probability/ease of testing and correction)

'''GI Bulbs Not Lighting'''

Let's start by determining if the problem is "off board", i.e. not on your power/driver board, or "on board".

#Take note of the wire color of the GI string that is not working.
#Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.
#Turn the game on.
#Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector position with the same wire color as noted earlier. Make sure you make contact with the conductor.
#Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector with the white wire that has the same color "tracer" as the color noted earlier.
#You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.
#If there is voltage at the connector, then the problem is "off board".
#If there is no voltage at the connector, then the problem is "on board".

'''Off board GI problems'''

#'''All lamps blown.''' Don't laugh. Just for giggles, put a known working lamp into one of the lamp sockets of the suspected GI string. I've seen it more than once. Usually the result of operators never changing a bulb, or somehow connecting higher voltage to the circuit.
#'''"Open" in GI wiring.''' The GI wires leading from J120/J121 may be cut/broken between the connector and the GI lamp sockets. Remove both of the female connectors at J120/J121. Use your DMM to check continuity between the lamp socket and the appropriate wire/pin at J120/J121.

'''On board GI problems'''

#'''Blown fuses.''' This is also the easiest problem to fix. Check each GI fuse following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_fuses| procedure]]. Don't trust your eyes.
#'''Burned connectors.''' <need a picture> Over long periods of time, both the male and female GI connectors at J115, J120, and J121 often burn. This was especially prevalent in early WPC games like Terminator 2. Numerous "hacks" have been employed over the years by well meaning repairmen but the only real way to fix burned connectors is to replace both the male header pins and the female housings/pins. "Trifurcon" phosphor-bronze crimp-on pins are recommended to provide a better connection at the female connector. Note that these must be phosphor-bronze (7A rating, as original). Don't buy them unless the supplier calls that out as the brass version looks the same but is only rated at 5A. If you replace burned female connectors, the male connectors are probably burned too and should be replaced. The damaged surface of the male pins will generate heat, and cause early failure of the replacement connector. Plus, the GI will be dimmer than it should be. J115 is a special case. The black Panduit connector that Williams used on many machines is far superior to any crimp pin, with a 12A rating (compared to 7A for phosphor-bronze Trifurcon pins). These, however, can be hard to find. Fortunately, they rarely burn and therefore rarely require service.
#'''Burned AC power input connector.''' There is also a 9-pin (3x3) connector between the transformer secondary and J115. This connector/pins sometimes burn and may require replacement. Check to ensure that AC power is being delivered to the power/driver board at J115.
##Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.
##Turn the game on.
##Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 3.
##Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 11.
##You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.
##If no voltage is present, examine the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.
#'''Burned traces.''' Usually, this is a secondary problem created after the connectors burn. Visual inspection of the traces might uncover the problem, but "buzzing" them for continuity is the best practice.
#'''Failed 2N5401.''' These don't fail very often, but are easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| procedure]].
#'''Failed resistors.''' Again, these don't fail very often but are easy to test with your DMM. Keep in mind that "in-circuit" measurements may not be reliable.
#'''Failed 74LS374.''' This is rare too but easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit | procedure]]. You can also test the outputs of the LS374 by probing pins 2, 5, 6, 16 and 19 with your logic probe. At full GI brightness, these pins should test as "high".
#'''Failed Triac.''' These rarely fail. But, if you've gotten to this step in the procedure, it's time to replace the Triac. Remember, you need a 4-sector triac.

As these boards age it is easy to pull out the little copper hole liners that connect traces from one side of the board to the other. If you install new connector pins, be sure to check continuity from the new pins onto the board somewhere. This only takes a couple minutes and can save you a lot of time.

'''GI Lamps Not Dimming'''

The primary cause of this problem is broken traces at BR2, usually caused when BR2 was replaced. These traces feed D3 and D38. Both of these traces must be intact for dimming to work.

====Controlled Lamp Problems====

Under construction... 

===Switch Problems===

Switches in WPC games fall into two categories, those within the switch matrix, and "direct" switches.

====Direct Switch Problems====

'''Direct switch operation'''

Direct switches include:
*Left coin chute
*Center coin chute
*Right coin chute
*4th coin chute
*Service Credits/Escape (referred to as "escape" here)
*Volume down/Down
*Volume up/Up
*Begin Test/Enter

Direct switches are not part of the WPC switch matrix. All of the direct switches are located on the coin door, and connect to the MPU at J205. The MPU senses these switches individually, and apart from the switch matrix. Therefore, isolation diodes are not used with direct switches.

Normally, with the switch open, the LM339s at U16 and U17 compare 12V (supplied on the MPU to both the switch and to the LM339) with 5V (as a comparison level) and signals the 74LS240 at U15 that the switch is open. When the switch closes, it shorts the 12V to ground and the comparison at the LM339 then indicates to U15 that the switch is closed. U15 is "clocked" by pin 48 of the ASIC (SW DIR), causing U15 to present its data to the data bus. The 6809/ASIC "debounces" the switch. Debouncing is not a factor to be considered here and doesn't factor in switch testing at all.

'''Direct Switch Pinout at J205 for both WPC and WPC-S MPUs''' 
Notes: 
:J205, pin 5 is the "key" pin.
:J205, pin 10 provides ground (black wire)
:J205, pin 11 is unused
:J205, pin 12 is an "enable" back to the coin door interface board 

{| class="wikitable"
!Signal
!Wire color at J205
!MPU pin
!Diode
!LM339 & input pin
!U15 input pin
|-
|Left chute || <center>orange/brown</center> || <center>J205-1</center> || <center>D15</center> || <center>U17-5</center> || <center>11</center>
|-
|Center chute || <center>orange/red</center> || <center>J205-2</center> || <center>D16</center> || <center>U17-7</center> || <center>13</center>
|-
|Right chute || <center>orange/black</center> || <center>J205-3</center> || <center>D17</center> || <center>U17-11</center> || <center>15</center>
|-
|4th chute || <center>orange/yellow</center> || <center>J205-4</center> || <center>D18</center> || <center>U17-9</center> || <center>17</center>
|-
|Escape || <center>orange/green</center> || <center>J205-6</center> || <center>D11</center> || <center>U16-9</center> || <center>2</center>
|-
|Down || <center>orange/blue</center> || <center>J205-7</center> || <center>D12</center> || <center>U16-11</center> || <center>4</center>
|-
|Up || <center>orange/violet</center> || <center>J205-8</center> || <center>D13</center> || <center>U16-7</center> || <center>6</center>
|-
|Enter || <center>orange/gray</center> || <center>J205-9</center> || <center>D14</center> || <center>U16-5</center> || <center>8</center>
|}

'''Debugging direct switch problems'''

To discover the problem as quickly as possible, we'll divide the problem into smaller pieces. We must first determine if the problem is on the MPU board or the problem lies with the wiring to the coin door and/or the specific switch. If your MPU has obvious alkaline damage at U15, U16, or U17, address the alkaline damage first.

Begin testing with the game OFF.

'''Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/switch '''
#Remove connector J205 from the MPU.
#Build a jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends.
#Clip one end of the jumper wire to the game's ground braid in the game head.
#Turn the game on
#Carefully touch the other end of your jumper wire to the appropriate pin on J205 as shown in the table.
#If the MPU carries out the function of the switch, the problem is not on the MPU.
#If the MPU does nothing, the problem is on the MPU.
#Skip to the appropriate section below.

'''Identifying problems NOT on the MPU '''

'''Test the direct switch's path to ground '''
#Your game should still be turned off.
#DMM set to continuity.
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to any game ground, like the lockdown bar or ground braid.
#Red lead on the solder joint between the switch and the black wire that provides ground.
#You should hear "tone". If not, further diagnose the break in the black wire between the solder joint and game ground.

'''Test the direct switch itself '''
#Black lead of your DMM still clipped to game ground.
#Red lead on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) of the switch under test.
#Depress the switch. You should hear "tone". If not, the switch is defective and not "making". See the section below that describes cleaning these switches.

'''Test the signal path to the MPU '''
#Clip the black lead of your DMM on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.
#Remove the connector plug at J205 from the MPU.
#Red lead on the appropriate pin of J205 for the switch under test. See the table above. It's easiest to access the pin through the rectangular hole in the back of the connector where the pin's "tang" snaps in.
#You should hear "tone". If not, there is a discontinuity in the wire between the direct switch and J205. Note that the coin door interface board is between these two points. The coin door interface board is a "pass-through" for these signals and rarely causes a problem. Still, reseating connectors J1, J3, and J4 on the coin door interface board might uncover the problem. More likely, the wire between J1 on the coin door interface board and J205 has a break in it.

'''Identifying problems on the MPU '''

'''Test the signal path through J205 and onto the MPU '''
J205 is right below the battery holder and as such, sometimes receives the unwanted gift of dripping alkaline from depleted batteries. Carefully examine both the male and female connections of J205 for alkaline "greenies". Assuming no alkaline damage... 
#Begin with your game turned off.
#Connect J205 to the MPU.
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.
#Red lead on the banded end of the appropriate diode shown in the table above.
#You should hear "tone". If not, there is either a problem with the physical connection at J205 or the alkaline "greenies" are sneakier than you gave them credit for. Re-examine J205 and the surrounding area of the board for alkaline damage. The traces from the switch connectors are very small and it takes very little alkaline damage to compromise them. You may also re-pin the female side of J205.

At this point, a logic probe would be the best tool to use. You can pick up 5V power for your probe across the electrolytic cap at C31 which is immediately to the right of the battery holder. Black lead on the negative side (top of the cap). Red lead on positive side (bottom). The board is silkscreened with polarity markings. Set the logic probe to "CMOS" test mode, as you will be measuring 12VDC.

If you don't already have a logic probe, you should. Although for this test, you can still get by with your trusty DMM. Clip the black lead of your DMM to game ground. The ground braid in the head is a good place to pickup ground at this point. Set your DMM to DC volts.

'''Test the LM339 inputs '''
#Start with the game turned off.
#Again, set your logic probe to "CMOS"
#Clip one end of your jumper wire to the appopriate pin of J205. Leave the other end of your jumper wire unconnected, but handy as you'll touch it to ground later.
#You now need to turn the game ON.
#Measure the signal at the appropriate LM339's appropriate pin shown in the table above. Either place your logic probe on the pin or place the Red lead of your DMM on the pin. The signal should measure high (or about 12VDC with your DMM).
#Now, with your other hand, touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high, then the pin isn't being grounded correctly. Candidates are a failed diode/resistor in the circuit, the board trace between the diode and the LM339 is compromised, or a badly failed LM339.

'''Test the LM339 outputs/74LS240 (U15) inputs '''
#Set your logic probe back to TTL as you will be measuring 0 - 5V signals
#Measure the signal at the appropriate pin (see table) of U15. The signal should measure high (or about 5VDC with your DMM).
#Touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high with the jumper wire grounded, then either the LM339 outputs have failed, the board trace between the LM339 and U15 is compromised, or the 74LS240 has failed and is corrupting the signal. You can test U15 using the procedure in the "How to..." section of PinWiki, [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing an integrated circuit| here]].

The output side of U15 can't be tested effectively since that is the processor/ASIC data bus and should be constantly and irregularly changing states.

If you've followed this process step-by-step, you should have identified the problem with the signal and will be able to effectively perform the appropriate repair.

'''Cleaning direct switches'''

Coming soon...will describe disassembly and cleaning...
Sometimes, several rigorous open/close cycles will "clean" corrosion from the switch.

====Switch Matrix Problems====

'''Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/diodes/switches '''

Follow these steps to determine if the switch matrix problem is on the CPU or somewhere in the game wiring.

#Begin with the game turned off.
#Remove connectors J206/J207, J208/209 and J212 from the bottom of the CPU (J206 and J207 are electronically the same and J208 and J209 are electronically the same).
#Clip one lead of a test jumper to pin one of J207 making sure you don't touch any of the nearby pins on J207.
#Clip the other lead to the banded end of a 1N4004 diode (a 1N4001 or similar diode will work as well). If you don't have a diode you can use just the jumper wire without a diode with the switch matrix connectors removed from the CPU.
#Power the game on, and enter Switch Edge test (you've left J205 on the CPU so the diagnostics switches still work).
#Touch the non-banded end of the diode to pin one on J209, then pin two and so on. You should see (and hear) the CPU indicate that switches #11, #12, #13, etc. are being "made" as you touch the pins of J209.
#Move the jumper from J207 pin one to J207 pin 2 and repeat the J209 shorting. Do the same for the rest of the pins on J207 until you've tested all the pins of J207 and J209.

If only one switch shows on the Switch Edge test for each pin jump, then you've ruled out the CPU as the problem and you have a shorted wire or bad/broken/shorted diode on the playfield somewhere.

If multiple switch closures are reported when you touch one pin of the connector, or a row or column short is reported, then the problem lies within the switch matrix circuitry on the CPU.

===Display problems===
Under Construction

Display problems are usually the result of failing dot matrix displays themselves, flakey ribbon cables or connectors, ribbon cables installed "one row off" (or even one column off), failing high voltage sections of the dot matrix controller board, and rarely logic IC problems on the dot matrix controller board.

Pictures of failed or failing displays here would be nice.

Start by checking the easy things first.

#Reseat the narrow ribbon cable between the DMD controller board and the DMD.
#Reseat the wide ribbon cables from the MPU to the DMD controller.
#Ensure each ribbon cable is correctly mated, and not "one row off".

Next, test the voltages supplied by the DMD controller to the DMD. Measure voltages at the DMD per the article
[[WPC_Dot_Matrix_Controller_board| "The WPC Dot Matrix Controller"]]

Bally/Williams and Data East have similarities with the 128x32 display. The display itself is interchangeable between manufacturers. DMDs do have a limited lifetime and will eventually outgas. Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Score_Display_Issues | information about outgassing displays]] in the Data East section.

===Sound problems===
====Lowering the Minimum Volume====
By default the game volume will go no lower than '8' to prevent an operator from setting the volume too low. This can be overridden by entering the adjustments menu and setting Adjustment 1.28 (Minimum Volume Override) to yes. You can now set the volume as low as you like.

===Flipper problems===

Funhouse

2011-06-25T03:59:10Z

Williams: Moved section to general WPC page

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! System !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Williams || WPC-Alphanumeric || 1989 || 50003 || 10,750
|}

[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=966 Funhouse entry at ipdb.org]

[http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/966/funhouse.htm Funhouse Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]

[http://tiltwarning.com/blog/games-of-the-week/funhouse/ Funhouse strategy video from PAPA]

= Game-Specific Issues =
'''Upgrading to L-9 ROMs'''
The latest version of the Funhouse game ROM is L-9. With this version the game ROM has increased to a 2M ROM from a 1M ROM. A jumper on the WPC board must be moved to use the larger ROM. The jumper at W2 must be removed and a jumper at W1 must be added. This is a somewhat simple board repair but if you do not have board soldering experience any [[Pinball_Board_Repair_Services |pinball tech]] can make this modification. A detailed explanation of this process can be found at [http://www.pinballroms.com/documents/rejumpering_wpc_cpu.htm John Wart's pinball website.] as well as [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/9KbjWNRPFEs/discussion a discussion at rec.games.pinball.]

'''Servicing Funhouse and Roadshow Heads'''
Full of tricky, but now-available parts, these heads are straightforward to service. There still seems to be an issue with poorly-made jaw gears that fracture early in service.

Williams WPC

2011-06-25T03:58:22Z

Williams: /* Sound problems */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
This guide covers Williams WPC, WPC-S, and WPC-95 games.

==Game List==

==='''WPC (Alphanumeric)'''===
*[[Funhouse]]
*[[Harley-Davidson]]
*[[The Machine: Bride of Pin*Bot]]

==='''WPC (Dot Matrix)'''===
*[[Gilligan's Island]]
*[[Terminator 2: Judgement Day]]
*[[Hurricane]]
*[[Party Zone]]

===WPC Fliptronics I & II===
*[[The Addams Family]] / Addams Family Gold
*[[The Getaway: High Speed II]]
*[[Black Rose]]
*[[Fish Tales]]
*[[Doctor Who]]
*[[Creature from the Black Lagoon]]
*[[White Water]]
*[[Bram Stoker's Dracula]]
*[[Twilight Zone]]

==='''WPC DCS Sound'''===
*[[Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure]]
*[[Judge Dredd]]
*[[Star Trek: The Next Generation]]
*[[Popeye Saves The Earth]]
*[[Demolition Man]]

==='''WPC-S CPU'''===
*[[World Cup Soccer]]
*[[The Flintstones]]
*[[Corvette]]
*[[Red & Ted Road Show]]
*[[The Shadow]]
*[[Dirty Harry]]
*[[Theatre of Magic]]
*[[No Fear: Dangerous Sports]]
*[[Indianapolis 500]]
*[[Johnny Mnemonic]]
*[[Jack*Bot]]
*[[WHO Dunnit]]

==='''WPC-95 CPU'''===
*[[Congo]]
*[[Attack from Mars]]
*[[Safecracker]]
*[[Tales of the Arabian Nights]]
*[[Scared Stiff]]
*[[Junk Yard]]
*[[NBA Fastbreak]]
*[[Medieval Madness]]
*[[Cirqus Voltaire]]
*[[No Good Gofers]]
*[[The Championship Pub]]
*[[Monster Bash]]
*[[Cactus Canyon]]

==Technical Info==
Motorola 68B09E, running at 2Mhz. It is an 8-bit/16-bit CPU with a 64KB address space. Bank switching is required to address more than 64KB. The game ROM size varies from 128KB to 1MB, depending on the game. 8KB of battery backed RAM is available.

For more information, see [http://www.oddchange.com/freewpc/manual/The-WPC-Hardware.html#The-WPC-Hardware The FreeWPC Manual]
===[[WPC Transformers|'''The WPC Transformer''']]===
===[[The WPC System Boardset and History]]===
----
===WPC CPU Generations===
====[[WPC CPU]]====
====[[WPC-S CPU]]====
====[[WPC-95 CPU]]====
----
===WPC Power/Driver Board Generations===
====[[WPC-089 Power/Driver Board]]====
====WPC-95 Power/Driver Board====
----
===[[WPC Dot Matrix Controller board]]===

===WPC Sound Boards===
====[[WPC pre-DCS Sound Board]]====
====[[WPC DCS Sound Board]]====
====[[WPC-95 AV Board]]====
----
===WPC Fliptronics Boards===
====[[WPC Fliptronics I board]]====
====[[WPC Fliptronics II board]]====
----
===Miscellaneous WPC Boards===
Note: Some of these might best be located in the "Game Specific Problems & Fixes" section. Perhaps the pervasiveness of their use within the WPC game list would drive the decision.
====[[WPC 7 Opto Board]]====
====[[WPC 10 Opto Board]]====
====[[WPC 16 Opto Board]]====

====[[Auxiliary 8-Driver Board]]====

====[[Trough opto boards]]====
====[[WH2O & CFTBL chaser lamp boards]]====
====[[HSII & CFTBL triac board]]====
====Coin Door Interface Board====

If your coin door interface board gets dusty from flipper parts wearing, clean it. That dust conducts electricity and will give you some interesting coinage issues.

==Problems and Solutions==
===MPU boot issues===
====Relocating the battery from the MPU board====
Relocating the 3xAA battery pack from the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of MPU boards. Simply removing the batteries is not an option with WPC games as you will always receive a "Factory Settings Restored" message when the game boots.

Options:
#Remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won't leak onto (or even drip onto) any circuit board. Replace the batteries annually, dating them with a Sharpie! as you do.
#Replace the 6264 static RAM with a SIMTEK non-volatile RAM (STK12C68). These SIMTEK RAM chips are increasingly hard to find but offer a nice alternative to changing batteries annually. This method requires desoldering/soldering on the MPU and also has the down-side of not maintaining the Real Time Clock (meaningless in some games...nice in games like Twilight Zone that moves the playfield "toy" clock to the current time during attract mode, and Who?Dunnit which has a "Midnight Madness" feature.

==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ====
===Game resets===
====[[A disciplined process to eliminate WPC game resets]]====
===Check fuses F114 and F115 message===
This message is sometimes displayed when the game boots and a game cannot be started. Most of the time, F114/F115 will be found to be just fine.

The game issues this message because it cannot read the switch matrix normally. The crafty designers at Williams inserted an “always closed“ switch into the matrix as switch 24. Switch 24 isn’t a switch at all, but instead provides the game software with a “known closed” switch matrix return. Switch 24 is actually a diode across column 2, row 4 of the switch matrix and is located on the coin door interface board.

Since the WPC switch matrix circuitry on the MPU uses 12V to determine switch state, the game assumes that the 12VDC power has been interrupted. F114/F115 fuse the 12V generation circuit; F114 on the AC side of BR1; F115 on the DC side of BR1. Hence, the game assumes that one of these fuses is blown and the message is displayed.

'''Diagnosing the problem'''

Start by checking DC voltage at TP3. You should see about 12VDC. If not, follow these steps.

#Actually check fuses F114 and F115 using the procedure [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_fuses| here]]. If a blown fuse is found, replace it. If F114 immediately blows again, then BR1 is probably shorted. Skip to the paragraph below to test the bridge.
#Check LED6. If not lit (indicating the absence of 18V at TP8), then suspect BR1 or the filter caps for BR1, C6 and C7. If BR1 had failed shorted or if C6 or C7 where shorted (rare) then you would expect to see F114 blown. BR1 can be tested using the procedure below.
#Check LED1. If not lit (indicating the absence of “digital” 12V at TP3, then test D1 and D2 (both 1N4004 diodes). If D1/D2 test good, then check continuity from pin 2 of the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2 to J114, pin 1. This verifies the path through F115.
#If this all checks out, yet 12VDC is still not at TP3, then suspect the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2. Q2 is in a TO-220 package (like a TIP-102) and has a small heat sink attached.

If TP3 does, in fact, have 12VDC present, then we need to dig deeper.

#First check for 12VDC on the CPU board to ensure that the 12V is getting to the board via the 2 (and possibly 4 if your game has a “Z-Connector”) connectors that carry the 12VDC. An easy place to measure 12VDC on the CPU is at pin 10 of the ULN2803 (U20). Pin 10 is on the bottom row of pins, furthest left. Note that this connection (an also the 12VDC connection to pin 3 of the LM339s) is not shown on the schematic.
#If the CPU is receiving 12VDC, and you still have the “Check fuses F114 and F115” message, then the problem lies within the CPUs switch matrix logic circuitry.
#Prime candidates for CPU switch matrix failure are U20 (a ULN2803), the two LM339s at U18 and U19, the 74LS374 at U14, and the 74LS240 at U13. All of these ICs are in the “corrosion zone” caused by leaky alkaline batteries. If your CPU exhibits the “blue/green fuzzies”, address the alkaline damage first.
#Testing the 74LSXXX ICs is simple using the procedure [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit| here]].
#If coil power, flasher power, or even lamp power was somehow shorted to the switch matrix, there is a near 100% probability that the ULN2803 at U20 has been damaged. There is no good way to test the ULN2803 other than using a logic probe with the game powered on. Both the input side and the output side of the ULN2803 should be toggling between logic 0 and logic 1. If not, socket and replace the ULN2803.

[[File:Test-br.jpg|160px|thumb|left|Checking an uninstalled bridge rectifier]]
'''Testing a bridge rectifier is simple.'''
#Place your DMM into "diode test".
#Put the black lead of your DMM on the "oddball" lead of the bridge rectifier. This will be the lead that isn't oriented the same as the others (as with the "spade" type of bridge) or the lead that prevents the four legs from forming a square (as with the "wire lead" type of bridge). This will also be the DC positive lead of the bridge.
#Place the red lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.
#A reading nominally between .5 and .7 should be seen (this represents the voltage drop across the bridge's internal diodes).
#Now place the red lead of the DMM on the lead opposite of the "oddball" lead, or the DC negative lead of the bridge.
#Place the black lead of the DMM on each of the adjacent legs, one at a time.
#Again, a nominal reading between .5 and .7 should be seen.

Readings outside of these ranges indicate a failed or failing bridge. Note that these readings are not "hard and fast". For instance, a reading of .462 is probably acceptable. We are looking for an "open" or a "short". Note also that this test is not conducted "under load" and it is possible for the bridge to test "good" when it will in fact fail under load (this is also true when testing diodes, transistors, etc).
 

[[File:Wpc-br.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The heat sink covering BR1 and BR2 on a WPC-board]]
Take special care when replacing a bridge rectifier. It is easy to lift the traces of the plated through holes when removing these. After removing the heat sink, cut the old bridge rectifier off of the board close to the top leaving as much of the lug as possible. Then add a small amount of solder to the connection on the solder side to improve heat transfer. Finally apply the iron to the solder side to heat the joint and remove the remaining lug with small pliers.

When replacing the new bridge rectifier you should remove the old thermal compound and apply a new thin layer. The old compound can be removed with a little rubbing alcohol. Apply the thermal compound to the top of the bridge rectifiers and reattach the heat sink with the screws. It is much easier to replace the heat sink before resoldering the new bridge rectifier. Make sure that the heatsink is sitting flush with the tops of the bridge rectifiers and that you leave about a 5/8" gap between the bridge rectifier and the board to improve air flow.

Splitting the heat sink between BR1 and BR2 was at one time thought to improve reliability. This is no longer considered a best practice and is not recommended.

More info about replacing bridge rectifiers can be found in the section regarding [[A_disciplined_process_to_eliminate_WPC_game_resets#Failed_Bridge_Rectifier| system resets.]]
 

[[File:Wps-diodes.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diodes replaced BR1 and BR2 on WPC-95 boards]]
In WPC-95 games, BR1 and BR2 were replaced by a series of diodes. D11-D14 replaced BR1. D7-D10 replaced BR2. These are much less prone to failure. Still, they do fail on occasion. If they fail, it's best to replace all four in the "gang".
 

===Voltage Problems - LED2 & LED3===

LED2 and LED3 on the Power Driver Board are indicators for the line voltage detection circuit. On on-board comparator circuit uses +5V and +18V to check the line voltage. The comparator consists of a resistor voltage divider and an LM339 comparator.

The following table shows how to interpret the LED states. Note that other problems with the +18V or +5V supply could cause a high or low line voltage indication.

Line Voltage Indicator Chart
{| class="wikitable"
!LED2
!LED3
!Voltage
|-
|On || Off || OK
|-
|Off || Off || High
|-
|On || On || Low
|}

===Solenoid & Flasher problems===
Before proceeding to diagnose solenoid or flasher problems, see this section: [[General#How are coils driven?| How coils and flashers are turned on]]
===Lamp problems===

Lamps (or globes for those of you in the UK) fall into two categories. "General Illumination" and "Controlled Lamps". Your game probably has other lamps which are actually "flashers" that require an 89 or 906 bulb. Flashers are covered elsewhere in this Wiki.

General illumination lamps (GI) provide the ambient lighting for the playfield, backbox, and coin door. These lamps are list most of the time. The only "controllable" aspect of these lamps is their brightness.

Controlled lamps are under complete CPU control via the lamp matrix. These lamps illuminate the various "features" of the game such as mode inserts, pop bumper lamps, inlane/outlane insert lamps, etc.

====General Illumination Problems====

'''Background'''

The WPC power/driver board provides 5 GI circuits under CPU "brightness control". The WPC-95 power/driver board provides 3 GI circuits under CPU "brightness" control and 2 circuits that are always powered. Those two circuits are always connected to the backbox lamps.

GI power is provided by the transformer in the form of 6.3VAC at power/driver board connector J115. Although there are five pairs of wires, they are all connected together at the transformer. One side of the AC GI circuit on the power/driver board is fused by F106 through F110 which are all 5ASB fuses. This side runs to the GI lamps, and carries 6.3VAC to the backbox, playfield, and coin door via power driver board connectors J120, J121, and J119 respectively. J119 is a 3-pin header that is always connected to the coin door lamps. J120 and J121 are electrically and physically identical (keyed at pin 4) and therefore can be connected to either the female playfield GI connector or the female backbox GI connector without care. The other side of the GI AC feed is connected to ground.

The GI power is controlled by a triac in the return line from the playfield. When these triacs are off, no current passes and the lamps are off. When the triac is turned on, the GI lamps glow. The triac is a slightly special part - it must be a "four sector" triac. This means that it can switch both positive and negative sides of the AC cycle with only a positive signal.

Each triac is switched on/off by a 2N5401 transistor which is controlled by U1, a 74LS374, an octal D-Type Flip-Flop with three state outputs (a fancy way of saying that the device is an 8-bit data buffer).

The CPU can dim the GI by switching on the GI for only parts of the AC waveform. To do this, it uses a zero crossing signal generated from the 6.5VAC that feeds the 5V circuit.

Wire colors to J115 during the early WPC games were always yellow (AC) and yellow-white (AC return). Pin 1 of J115 provides the "ground reference". Later WPC games used different wire colors at J115 and instead of "looping" power through the connector at J115, connected two wires to the same pin at the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.

J119 is always keyed at pin2, with a white-Violet wire at pin 1 and a Violet wire at pin 3

J120 and J121 are 11 pin connectors. Wire color/positions (when used) are identical for all WPC games and are shown in the table.

{| class="wikitable"
!<center> Pin </center>
! Wire color at J120/J121 
|-
|<center>1</center> ||  Brown
|-
|<center>2</center> ||  Orange
|-
|<center>3</center> ||  Yellow (yellow)
|-
|<center>4</center> ||  Key
|-
|<center>5</center> ||  Green
|-
|<center>6</center> ||  Violet
|-
|<center>7</center> ||  White-Brown
|-
|<center>8</center> ||  White-Orange
|-
|<center>9</center> ||  White-Yellow (yellow)
|-
|<center>10</center> ||  White-Green
|-
|<center>11</center> ||  White-Violet
|}

'''Common GI Problem Causes''' (listed by probability/ease of testing and correction)

'''GI Bulbs Not Lighting'''

Let's start by determining if the problem is "off board", i.e. not on your power/driver board, or "on board".

#Take note of the wire color of the GI string that is not working.
#Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.
#Turn the game on.
#Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector position with the same wire color as noted earlier. Make sure you make contact with the conductor.
#Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector with the white wire that has the same color "tracer" as the color noted earlier.
#You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.
#If there is voltage at the connector, then the problem is "off board".
#If there is no voltage at the connector, then the problem is "on board".

'''Off board GI problems'''

#'''All lamps blown.''' Don't laugh. Just for giggles, put a known working lamp into one of the lamp sockets of the suspected GI string. I've seen it more than once. Usually the result of operators never changing a bulb, or somehow connecting higher voltage to the circuit.
#'''"Open" in GI wiring.''' The GI wires leading from J120/J121 may be cut/broken between the connector and the GI lamp sockets. Remove both of the female connectors at J120/J121. Use your DMM to check continuity between the lamp socket and the appropriate wire/pin at J120/J121.

'''On board GI problems'''

#'''Blown fuses.''' This is also the easiest problem to fix. Check each GI fuse following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_fuses| procedure]]. Don't trust your eyes.
#'''Burned connectors.''' <need a picture> Over long periods of time, both the male and female GI connectors at J115, J120, and J121 often burn. This was especially prevalent in early WPC games like Terminator 2. Numerous "hacks" have been employed over the years by well meaning repairmen but the only real way to fix burned connectors is to replace both the male header pins and the female housings/pins. "Trifurcon" phosphor-bronze crimp-on pins are recommended to provide a better connection at the female connector. Note that these must be phosphor-bronze (7A rating, as original). Don't buy them unless the supplier calls that out as the brass version looks the same but is only rated at 5A. If you replace burned female connectors, the male connectors are probably burned too and should be replaced. The damaged surface of the male pins will generate heat, and cause early failure of the replacement connector. Plus, the GI will be dimmer than it should be. J115 is a special case. The black Panduit connector that Williams used on many machines is far superior to any crimp pin, with a 12A rating (compared to 7A for phosphor-bronze Trifurcon pins). These, however, can be hard to find. Fortunately, they rarely burn and therefore rarely require service.
#'''Burned AC power input connector.''' There is also a 9-pin (3x3) connector between the transformer secondary and J115. This connector/pins sometimes burn and may require replacement. Check to ensure that AC power is being delivered to the power/driver board at J115.
##Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.
##Turn the game on.
##Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 3.
##Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector at J115, pin 11.
##You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.
##If no voltage is present, examine the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.
#'''Burned traces.''' Usually, this is a secondary problem created after the connectors burn. Visual inspection of the traces might uncover the problem, but "buzzing" them for continuity is the best practice.
#'''Failed 2N5401.''' These don't fail very often, but are easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| procedure]].
#'''Failed resistors.''' Again, these don't fail very often but are easy to test with your DMM. Keep in mind that "in-circuit" measurements may not be reliable.
#'''Failed 74LS374.''' This is rare too but easy to test following this [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing_an_integrated_circuit | procedure]]. You can also test the outputs of the LS374 by probing pins 2, 5, 6, 16 and 19 with your logic probe. At full GI brightness, these pins should test as "high".
#'''Failed Triac.''' These rarely fail. But, if you've gotten to this step in the procedure, it's time to replace the Triac. Remember, you need a 4-sector triac.

As these boards age it is easy to pull out the little copper hole liners that connect traces from one side of the board to the other. If you install new connector pins, be sure to check continuity from the new pins onto the board somewhere. This only takes a couple minutes and can save you a lot of time.

'''GI Lamps Not Dimming'''

The primary cause of this problem is broken traces at BR2, usually caused when BR2 was replaced. These traces feed D3 and D38. Both of these traces must be intact for dimming to work.

====Controlled Lamp Problems====

Under construction... 

===Switch Problems===

Switches in WPC games fall into two categories, those within the switch matrix, and "direct" switches.

====Direct Switch Problems====

'''Direct switch operation'''

Direct switches include:
*Left coin chute
*Center coin chute
*Right coin chute
*4th coin chute
*Service Credits/Escape (referred to as "escape" here)
*Volume down/Down
*Volume up/Up
*Begin Test/Enter

Direct switches are not part of the WPC switch matrix. All of the direct switches are located on the coin door, and connect to the MPU at J205. The MPU senses these switches individually, and apart from the switch matrix. Therefore, isolation diodes are not used with direct switches.

Normally, with the switch open, the LM339s at U16 and U17 compare 12V (supplied on the MPU to both the switch and to the LM339) with 5V (as a comparison level) and signals the 74LS240 at U15 that the switch is open. When the switch closes, it shorts the 12V to ground and the comparison at the LM339 then indicates to U15 that the switch is closed. U15 is "clocked" by pin 48 of the ASIC (SW DIR), causing U15 to present its data to the data bus. The 6809/ASIC "debounces" the switch. Debouncing is not a factor to be considered here and doesn't factor in switch testing at all.

'''Direct Switch Pinout at J205 for both WPC and WPC-S MPUs''' 
Notes: 
:J205, pin 5 is the "key" pin.
:J205, pin 10 provides ground (black wire)
:J205, pin 11 is unused
:J205, pin 12 is an "enable" back to the coin door interface board 

{| class="wikitable"
!Signal
!Wire color at J205
!MPU pin
!Diode
!LM339 & input pin
!U15 input pin
|-
|Left chute || <center>orange/brown</center> || <center>J205-1</center> || <center>D15</center> || <center>U17-5</center> || <center>11</center>
|-
|Center chute || <center>orange/red</center> || <center>J205-2</center> || <center>D16</center> || <center>U17-7</center> || <center>13</center>
|-
|Right chute || <center>orange/black</center> || <center>J205-3</center> || <center>D17</center> || <center>U17-11</center> || <center>15</center>
|-
|4th chute || <center>orange/yellow</center> || <center>J205-4</center> || <center>D18</center> || <center>U17-9</center> || <center>17</center>
|-
|Escape || <center>orange/green</center> || <center>J205-6</center> || <center>D11</center> || <center>U16-9</center> || <center>2</center>
|-
|Down || <center>orange/blue</center> || <center>J205-7</center> || <center>D12</center> || <center>U16-11</center> || <center>4</center>
|-
|Up || <center>orange/violet</center> || <center>J205-8</center> || <center>D13</center> || <center>U16-7</center> || <center>6</center>
|-
|Enter || <center>orange/gray</center> || <center>J205-9</center> || <center>D14</center> || <center>U16-5</center> || <center>8</center>
|}

'''Debugging direct switch problems'''

To discover the problem as quickly as possible, we'll divide the problem into smaller pieces. We must first determine if the problem is on the MPU board or the problem lies with the wiring to the coin door and/or the specific switch. If your MPU has obvious alkaline damage at U15, U16, or U17, address the alkaline damage first.

Begin testing with the game OFF.

'''Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/switch '''
#Remove connector J205 from the MPU.
#Build a jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends.
#Clip one end of the jumper wire to the game's ground braid in the game head.
#Turn the game on
#Carefully touch the other end of your jumper wire to the appropriate pin on J205 as shown in the table.
#If the MPU carries out the function of the switch, the problem is not on the MPU.
#If the MPU does nothing, the problem is on the MPU.
#Skip to the appropriate section below.

'''Identifying problems NOT on the MPU '''

'''Test the direct switch's path to ground '''
#Your game should still be turned off.
#DMM set to continuity.
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to any game ground, like the lockdown bar or ground braid.
#Red lead on the solder joint between the switch and the black wire that provides ground.
#You should hear "tone". If not, further diagnose the break in the black wire between the solder joint and game ground.

'''Test the direct switch itself '''
#Black lead of your DMM still clipped to game ground.
#Red lead on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) of the switch under test.
#Depress the switch. You should hear "tone". If not, the switch is defective and not "making". See the section below that describes cleaning these switches.

'''Test the signal path to the MPU '''
#Clip the black lead of your DMM on the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.
#Remove the connector plug at J205 from the MPU.
#Red lead on the appropriate pin of J205 for the switch under test. See the table above. It's easiest to access the pin through the rectangular hole in the back of the connector where the pin's "tang" snaps in.
#You should hear "tone". If not, there is a discontinuity in the wire between the direct switch and J205. Note that the coin door interface board is between these two points. The coin door interface board is a "pass-through" for these signals and rarely causes a problem. Still, reseating connectors J1, J3, and J4 on the coin door interface board might uncover the problem. More likely, the wire between J1 on the coin door interface board and J205 has a break in it.

'''Identifying problems on the MPU '''

'''Test the signal path through J205 and onto the MPU '''
J205 is right below the battery holder and as such, sometimes receives the unwanted gift of dripping alkaline from depleted batteries. Carefully examine both the male and female connections of J205 for alkaline "greenies". Assuming no alkaline damage... 
#Begin with your game turned off.
#Connect J205 to the MPU.
#Clip the black lead of your DMM to the solder joint opposite the black wire (or bare wire jumper) for the switch under test.
#Red lead on the banded end of the appropriate diode shown in the table above.
#You should hear "tone". If not, there is either a problem with the physical connection at J205 or the alkaline "greenies" are sneakier than you gave them credit for. Re-examine J205 and the surrounding area of the board for alkaline damage. The traces from the switch connectors are very small and it takes very little alkaline damage to compromise them. You may also re-pin the female side of J205.

At this point, a logic probe would be the best tool to use. You can pick up 5V power for your probe across the electrolytic cap at C31 which is immediately to the right of the battery holder. Black lead on the negative side (top of the cap). Red lead on positive side (bottom). The board is silkscreened with polarity markings. Set the logic probe to "CMOS" test mode, as you will be measuring 12VDC.

If you don't already have a logic probe, you should. Although for this test, you can still get by with your trusty DMM. Clip the black lead of your DMM to game ground. The ground braid in the head is a good place to pickup ground at this point. Set your DMM to DC volts.

'''Test the LM339 inputs '''
#Start with the game turned off.
#Again, set your logic probe to "CMOS"
#Clip one end of your jumper wire to the appopriate pin of J205. Leave the other end of your jumper wire unconnected, but handy as you'll touch it to ground later.
#You now need to turn the game ON.
#Measure the signal at the appropriate LM339's appropriate pin shown in the table above. Either place your logic probe on the pin or place the Red lead of your DMM on the pin. The signal should measure high (or about 12VDC with your DMM).
#Now, with your other hand, touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high, then the pin isn't being grounded correctly. Candidates are a failed diode/resistor in the circuit, the board trace between the diode and the LM339 is compromised, or a badly failed LM339.

'''Test the LM339 outputs/74LS240 (U15) inputs '''
#Set your logic probe back to TTL as you will be measuring 0 - 5V signals
#Measure the signal at the appropriate pin (see table) of U15. The signal should measure high (or about 5VDC with your DMM).
#Touch the free end of your jumper wire to the ground braid in the backbox as you observe the results.
#You should see the signal transition to low. If you still measure high with the jumper wire grounded, then either the LM339 outputs have failed, the board trace between the LM339 and U15 is compromised, or the 74LS240 has failed and is corrupting the signal. You can test U15 using the procedure in the "How to..." section of PinWiki, [[How_to..._(solder,_desolder,_"stitch",_test_transistors,_test_ICs,_etc)#Testing an integrated circuit| here]].

The output side of U15 can't be tested effectively since that is the processor/ASIC data bus and should be constantly and irregularly changing states.

If you've followed this process step-by-step, you should have identified the problem with the signal and will be able to effectively perform the appropriate repair.

'''Cleaning direct switches'''

Coming soon...will describe disassembly and cleaning...
Sometimes, several rigorous open/close cycles will "clean" corrosion from the switch.

====Switch Matrix Problems====

'''Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/diodes/switches '''

Follow these steps to determine if the switch matrix problem is on the CPU or somewhere in the game wiring.

#Begin with the game turned off.
#Remove connectors J206/J207, J208/209 and J212 from the bottom of the CPU (J206 and J207 are electronically the same and J208 and J209 are electronically the same).
#Clip one lead of a test jumper to pin one of J207 making sure you don't touch any of the nearby pins on J207.
#Clip the other lead to the banded end of a 1N4004 diode (a 1N4001 or similar diode will work as well). If you don't have a diode you can use just the jumper wire without a diode with the switch matrix connectors removed from the CPU.
#Power the game on, and enter Switch Edge test (you've left J205 on the CPU so the diagnostics switches still work).
#Touch the non-banded end of the diode to pin one on J209, then pin two and so on. You should see (and hear) the CPU indicate that switches #11, #12, #13, etc. are being "made" as you touch the pins of J209.
#Move the jumper from J207 pin one to J207 pin 2 and repeat the J209 shorting. Do the same for the rest of the pins on J207 until you've tested all the pins of J207 and J209.

If only one switch shows on the Switch Edge test for each pin jump, then you've ruled out the CPU as the problem and you have a shorted wire or bad/broken/shorted diode on the playfield somewhere.

If multiple switch closures are reported when you touch one pin of the connector, or a row or column short is reported, then the problem lies within the switch matrix circuitry on the CPU.

===Display problems===
Under Construction

Display problems are usually the result of failing dot matrix displays themselves, flakey ribbon cables or connectors, ribbon cables installed "one row off" (or even one column off), failing high voltage sections of the dot matrix controller board, and rarely logic IC problems on the dot matrix controller board.

Pictures of failed or failing displays here would be nice.

Start by checking the easy things first.

#Reseat the narrow ribbon cable between the DMD controller board and the DMD.
#Reseat the wide ribbon cables from the MPU to the DMD controller.
#Ensure each ribbon cable is correctly mated, and not "one row off".

Next, test the voltages supplied by the DMD controller to the DMD. Measure voltages at the DMD per the article
[[WPC_Dot_Matrix_Controller_board| "The WPC Dot Matrix Controller"]]

Bally/Williams and Data East have similarities with the 128x32 display. The display itself is interchangeable between manufacturers. DMDs do have a limited lifetime and will eventually outgas. Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Score_Display_Issues | information about outgassing displays]] in the Data East section.

===Sound problems===
====Lowering the Minimum Volume====
By default the game volume will go no lower than '8' to prevent an operator from setting the volume too low. This can be overridden by entering the adjustments menu and setting Adjustment 28 (Minimum Volume Override) to yes. You can now set the volume as low as you like.

===Flipper problems===

Talk:General

2011-06-25T03:17:25Z

Williams: Created page with "williams - 6/24/2011 - I removed a link to a specific product (microswitch) since it could become bad if the vendor changed their website. Feel free to change back if you feel i..."

williams - 6/24/2011 - I removed a link to a specific product (microswitch) since it could become bad if the vendor changed their website. Feel free to change back if you feel it's helpful.

General

2011-06-25T03:15:20Z

Williams: /* Parts to have on hand */

=Introduction=

This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines.

= Parts to have on hand =
'''All Machines'''
*[[General#Lamp_Chart| Bulbs/Lamps]] #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.

'''Electromechanical Machines'''

'''Solid State Machines'''

*Replacement micro-switches. A long lever micro-switch is a general replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need.
*TIP-102 Transistors
*IN4004 Diodes
*.156 and .100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most flexible)

=Tools of the Trade=

You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs.

==Mechanical Tools==
*Hex Key set/Allen Wrenches
*Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy
*Nut driver set. Should include 1/4" and 5/16" at minimum. Many electronic games also use 11/32" and 3/8" nuts for wire form ramp assemblies
*Screwdriver set. Should include #1 and #2 Flat head and Phillips head at minimum.
*Security Torx Bit set. Used on newer machines for lock plates and topper domes.
*Socket set, open end, or box wrenches. Should include 9/16 and 5/8 at minimum. Used for leg bolts and head bolts.

==Electrical Tools==
*Crimping tool
**[http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-73.asp Example: Sargent Tools 1026-CT], a far superior crimper to the Radio Shack quality Waldom crimper.
*Multimeter with diode function (spend more than $10.00) [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103176 RadioShack] or [http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 Sears] are among the brands.
*Side cutters
*Wire stripper
*For newer, solid state machines, a good logic probe can be useful. [http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=logic+probe&cat=0 Fry's Electronics] has several.

==Soldering Irons==

Soldering irons are used for both playfield wiring and board repair. While it doesn't matter much what soldering iron you use for playfield coils/wires/etc., it is critical that you use a good temperature controlled iron for PCB repair. Using a regular 40 watt iron for PCB repair will get too hot and ruin a board. If you think you will do any board repair in the future (and you probably will) you should get a temperature controlled soldering iron. The Weller WES51 and the older WES50 are good choices.

Portable:
*Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Iron (Best in Class) 
*Portasol Piezo 75 Watt Butane Iron (Older style Weller) 
Corded:
*Weller WP25 (Utility Grade) 
*Weller SP23LK (Budget Grade) 
Station:
*Weller WLC100 (Consumer Grade)
*Weller WES51 (Industrial Grade)
*Hakko FX-888 (Industrial Grade)

==Desoldering Tools==

A desoldering tool will be needed when removing a component from a circuit board. Probably the cheapest and most beginner friendly desoldering tool is a vacuum type device. This is a simple suction type device that removes heated liquefied solder. It is an excellent choice for those just starting with PCB repair or those who may only do the occasional repair.

There are also irons that are similar to a standard soldering iron with a large bulb attached to the end. The concept is that the heating of the old solder and the suction to remove the old solder is done all in one motion with one tool. The drawback to this type of iron is that you could easily apply too much heat to the board when removing a component and damage the board.

Another option are controlled desoldering stations. These are the easiest and safest to use but the most expensive option.

Here's a short list of some desoldering irons.
*Radio Shack 64-2098 - Vacuum desoldering tool. Great beginner choice.
*Aven 17535 Desoldering Pump - Cheapest desoldering type tool, most portable.
*Hakko 808 - Most expensive, corded, bulky, and easiest to use
*ECG J-045 - Basic Iron with solder sucker attached. Cheapest heated/corded desoldering tool. Not recommended for beginners.

==Rework Solder Stations==

*Pace MBT 350 (Best 3 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs micro tip soldering iron, normal soldering iron, and solder extractor simultaneously) 
*Pace MBT 301 (Best 2 iron station and only Class 3 approved electronics rework station. Runs 1 soldering iron and 1 solder ectractor)

==EM Tools==

*Contact "points" file. You can use an automotive ignition points file from the auto parts store but ONLY on tungsten contacts. Never use this type of file on "gold flashed" contacts as found in solid state games. Doing so will ruin the switch in such a way that it will no longer be reliable.
*Flexstone file. The same cautions apply here also.
*Leaf switch adjuster tools.

==Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs==
In work

=Soldering=

Soldering is a simple thing, but requires a little practice and some knowledge to master. In a pinball machine, there are two kinds of soldering. One is wires to lugs - coils, lamps and switches. The other is board soldering.

NOTE: If you aren't confident with your technique, practice on something else first! Soldering is an 'art' in some respects (I like to think of it as mini-welding) so grab an old circuit board and get practicing!

==Equipment and Supplies==

===The basic soldering iron===
A $15 Radio Shack 25W soldering iron will work for some applications. However, a good temperature controlled, rapid heating iron is something you should consider if you do much soldering and certainly if you are soldering on printed circuit boards. Many manufacturers offer great irons. Once example is the Weller WESD-51.

===Tip Cleaner===
For years, a wet sponge has been used for this purpose. Most times, the sponge is integrated into the solder station stand. Many techs now use the "wad of coils of brass" like the Hakko 599B-02 (pronounced "Hock-O"). This eliminates the need to dampen the sponge before each soldering session.

===Solder===
A wide range of solders are available. Radio Shack sells a nice .032 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, Radio Shack part number 64-009. For completing clean "OEM-like" solder joints, a "no clean" solder like Kester .031 diameter 63/37 no-clean solder, Kester part number 24-6337-5400, can be used. As the industry transitions to "lead free solder" (RoHS compliant), leaded solder will become increasingly more expensive and hard to find. Here is one supplier of Kester "no-clean" solder: [http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1262&parent=0 Pinball Life]

===Optional Equipment===
*Small tweezers or clamps such as [http://www.amazon.com/Copernicus-Handy-Magnifier-Alligator-Clips/dp/B003VD36IG My Handy] - Great for a helping hand during soldering jobs.
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocodile_clip Crocodile clips] to make temporary connections and testing easier.

==Soldering wires==
We'll start with wire soldering. You'll need this skill to replace micro-switches, coils and lamp sockets. The good news is that you cannot do much damage. Just be careful about where you put the iron, watch for solder splashes or drips, and try not to overheat anything.

Here are the simple steps:

#You'll need to tin the iron, the wires and lugs before you make the joint. Tinning gives you fresh solder on the joint surfaces and helps make a good connection.
#Wait for the iron to heat up fully (about 700 degrees F) and apply a little touch of solder to the iron, then swiftly wipe the tip clean with your tip cleaner. This "tins" the iron.
#Touch the iron to the wire. Put a tiny dab of solder between the tip and the wire, so that it melts into the wire to help transfer the heat from the iron. Feed more solder to the hot wire (not the iron) until it has a "coating" of solder. This "tins" the wire. Take care to not apply so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.
#Place the wire(s) and lugs together, and touch the iron to the joint. The solder will melt, and flow across the joint. You can add more solder at this point. As soon as the solder has run, Remove the iron and let the joint cool.

As the joint cools, the wire that you are holding will heat up as the heat conducts down the wire. You will discover that it may take 5 or more seconds for the solder to harden. The wire may become too hot for you to comfortably hold, and this is where small tweezers or clamps are useful. Regardless of the method used to hold the wire, it is important to keep the wire from moving, until the solder takes a solid form again. If the wire is moved, the solder connection will end up with what is referred to as a cold solder joint. The result of a cold solder joint will be a weak connection or a connection which will fail prematurely. A good way to determine whether or not the joint is secure after soldering is to gently tug on the wire after the joint has cooled.

'''Things to Know'''

*Solder flows to the heat. If you apply solder to the iron, the solder won't flow to the wire/lug and you will have a bad joint.
*It takes a lot of heat to make solder turn from solid to liquid. While it is melting, the temperature does not rise. So once the liquid runs through the joint, you should pull the iron away to avoid overheating.
*Some techs will "tack solder" wires to lugs, simply melting solder on the wire to solder on the lug. Other techs suggest that a good solder joint begins with a good "mechanical joint". They suggest that hooking the wire through the coil lug (for instance) will create a stronger, longer lasting joint. Whichever method you choose, good looking solder joints begin with clean lugs and clean, freshly stripped wire.

== Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards ==
Soldering components onto printed circuit boards is a bit more delicate than general soldering. The need for a good temperature controlled iron, an appropriate soldering iron tip, and good solder is even more important.

Solder pads on pinball printed circuit boards are damaged each time heat is applied to them. If too much heat is applied, especially on single sided boards, the pad will lift off, making the repair much more difficult.

The best solder joint on a PCB is achieved when the solder "flows" into the "through-hole". Of course, this won't happen on single sided boards since there is no copper trace to flow to.

<still work in progress>

==Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch"==
Sometimes as a result of applying too much heat to a solder pad, the pad or the trace will lift. Sometimes when removing a "snap cap" from a WPC Power/Driver board (for instance), the odds of cracking a through-hole are high since installation of the snap cap originally damaged the through-hole at least some.

A good way to repair this kind of damage is to use a "solder stitch" as pictured.

[[Image:SolderStitchSteps.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Repairing Traces Using a Solder Stitch]] 
'''Procedure''': 
#Sand or scrape some of the damaged trace on both sides of the board so that you can solder the "stitch". 
#Twist 3 strands (or so) of copper wire together. Give yourself enough wire to work with. Usually, about 3/4" will be enough. 
#Place the stitch through the through-hole and bend it tight to one side to be stitched. Inserting a small "pick" into the hole will help with placement of the stitch wire. 
#Solder the first side of the stitch. 
#Flip the board over and tack the other side of the stitch. 
#Install the new component (or socket) and solder into place. 
#All done!
 

=Desoldering=
Methods: Solder pump, Solder braid, Desoldering station. Pro-cons of each

Desoldering parts from printed circuit boards is obviously a bit tougher than soldering parts to the board. Desoldering alkaline damaged parts

=Testing an integrated circuit=

Besides using a logic probe to test integrated circuits when the game is turned on, there is another "game off" technique that can be used.

This test works for any 74XX series IC.

[[Image:ICTesting.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing ICs with a DMM]]
'''Procedure''':
#Remove as many connectors as possible from the board being tested. The less components connected in circuit, the more accurate test.
#Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to "diode test".
#Place the red lead on the ICs ground leg. With pin 1 of the IC oriented up and left, ground will most times be the pin on the lower left side of the IC. That is, for a 14 pin IC, ground is generally pin 7. For a 16 pin IC, ground is generally pin 8. And so on... Likewise, the red lead can be connected to the general ground plane of the board. This is beneficial if having to test multiple chips on the same board.
#Place the black lead on each of the other legs of the IC one at a time.
 

'''Interpreting the results:'''
*A reading between .4 and .7 generally means the leg, and the internal gates associated with it, are OK. 
*A reading of "short" indicates a definite problem with the chip UNLESS, that leg is tied to ground. Consult the board schematics. 
*A reading of "open" indicates a definite problem with the chip. 
*Disregard readings when the black lead is connected to either the +5v logic bus or ground.
*Comparing your results against test results from a known good IC (of the same kind) is a good practice.
 

Readings outside of this range my indicate a failed IC, or may indicate that associated circuitry is pulling the reading one way or the other. If you remove the IC from the board, you can test the IC in complete isolation. In this case, the test is nearly 100% reliable.
 

Like transistor testing, this test can tell you that a part has definitely failed. However, since this test is not conducted "under load", the part may test good, but fail under normal load.
 

=Testing fuses=
Fuses are used in many game circuits to protect failure of the circuit (shorts for instance) and possible subsequent drawing of too much power through the circuit. The fuse is specified at a particular rating so that it will be the "weakest link" in the circuit. In the event of a failure, the fuse "blows" to protect the rest of the circuit.

One of the basic tests to perform on pinball machines is to test fuses. For testing fuses, set your DMM to "continuity" or "buzz".

Testing fuses while still in their fuse holder can provide a false positive reading. This happens (sometimes) as your DMM finds a path from one end of the fuse, through other game circuitry, and back to the other end of the fuse. To prevent false positives, always remove the fuse from it's holder to "buzz" it out. At the very least, raise one end of the fuse out of the holder.

This is also a good time to ensure that the correctly rated fuse is in place. Compare the spec for the fuse (contained in your game manual or on a backbox sticker) to the actual fuse. Amperage, voltage, and fast/slow blow ratings should be checked. Never use a higher '''amperage''' fuse than specified. Always use a fuse rated at least as high as the spec '''voltage''' (higher is OK), and always use the correct '''fast/slow blow''' type. If you use a higher amperage rated fuse or a slow blow instead of a fast blow, you risk alleviating the fuse of it's job being the "weakest link", and instead, your game will find the next "weakest link", possibly a printed circuit board trace or other game wiring.

Lastly, tarnished fuse holders or fuse ends, increase resistance, adversely impacting your game's power circuits. If you need to replace a fuse holder, ensure that the new holder is rated sufficiently for the application.

=Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET)=

<Note: this is an experimental article layout...still thinking about it a bit and I have some content I'll upload this weekend....Chris Hibler> 
<need to validate correctness...I'm making some assumptions here...> 
<MJE15030/31 readings probably not correct for left leg...should be about 1.1> 
<need to add a separate section on FETs> 
<need to add a separate section on SCRs> 

A transistor is a device for amplifying current. A small current flowing from the base to the emitter causes a large current to flow from the collector to the emitter. It is a bit like a relay, where the base-emitter circuit is the coil, and the collector-emitter circuit is the switch contact. Transistors come in two polarities, NPN and PNP. NPN transistors are the most common, because they work towards ground. PNP transistors work towards positive, and are rarely used excepct for the power side of the switch matrix, and some voltage regulators.

When a transistor fails, the insides tend to melt together and create a continuous short. Or, the transistor may just become leaky and turn on on its own.

Transistors are distinguished from FETs and SCRs (testing these components to be added later)

[[Image:TransistorSymbols.jpg]]

Transistors are also manufactured in several "package" types or form factors. Some common package types used in pinball machines are:
*TO-3, such as a 2N3055, 2N6057, MJ2955, MJ10000. Viewing component from the back side, oriented so that the legs are closest to the bottom, the case is the Collector, Emitter on the left, Base on the Right
*TO-39, such as a 2N3440 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards
*TO-66, such as a 2N3584 as found on Bally/Stern Regulator/Solenoid Driver boards
*TO-92, such as a 2N4401, 2N5401, MPS-A13. Legs arranged EBC
*TO-202, such as a MPS-U45 (or replacement CEN-U45) as found on Gottlieb driver boards
*TO-218, such as a TIP-36c as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards. Legs arranged BCE
*TO-220, such as a TIP-102, TIP-107 as found on Williams WPC Power/Driver boards and MJE15030/MJE15031 found on many power supply boards. Legs arranged BCE (left to right)

Every transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector, commonly referred to as EBC.

Exactly how a transistor is tested depends on the package type, NPN vs PNP, and leg layout. 
'''All testing begins with your DMM set to "diode test"'''. 
Note: some DMMs will show 4xx - 6xx (vice .4 to .6 as noted below).

'''NPN TO-3''' package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor
#Probe each of the legs with the '''red''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

'''PNP TO-3''' package (MJ2955, 2N5875, 2N5879, 2N5880, 2N5884)
#Place the '''red''' lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor
#Probe each of the legs with the '''black''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

'''NPN TO-92''' package (2N3904, 2N4401, 2N5550, 2N5551, 2N6427, MPS-A13, MPS-A42, PN2222A)
#Place the '''red''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

'''PNP TO-92''' package (2N3906, 2N4403, 2N5401, MPS-A92)
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the center leg of the transistor
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''red''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
#Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

'''NPN TO-220''' package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)
#Place the '''black''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''red''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
#Probe the center leg with the red lead
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.

'''PNP TO-218 and TO-220''' package (TIP-36C, TIP-42/A/B/C, TIP-107, MJE15031)
#Place the '''red''' lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
#Probe each of the flanking legs with the '''black''' lead
#.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
#Probe the center leg with the black lead
#A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.

=Testing a coil=

If a driver transistor shorts on, it will cause the associated solenoid to activate at full power and stay activated. If the coil wire gets hot enough, it will burn out its plastic coating, shorting the wires and dropping the resistance to near 0 Ohms. If this happens and you replace the broken driver transistor, but you don't check the coil, the shorted coil will cause the transistor you just replaced to be damaged.

If you are unsure of the condition of the coils in a machine it is very wise to check each coil's resistance *before* switching the machine on. The human nose can be a very useful tool in diagnosing when something has burned, so use it!

Some flipper coils are "two coils in one," where they have a power coil and a hold coil. These are normally identified as having three lugs instead of two. You can treat these as two "separate" coils for the purposes of the tests below.

==Testing resistance==
To test a coil's resistance:
* set your DMM to 'Ohms' and attach your red and black probes to the coil lugs.
* If you see a reading of less than 2 Ohms, the coil has either shorted internally or there is a wiring fault.
* Desolder the wires going to the coil lugs and check the resistance across the coil lugs again. If it reads the same value when disconnected, then the problem lies with the melted coil. If the coil resistance reads 'normal' when it is disconnected (ie the coil is 'ok'), you may have a wiring or driver transistor issue.

It is wise to check all wiring and transistors associated with a melted coil before replacing it and powering on again.

==Testing for coil power==
With the machine powered on:
* set your DMM to DC
* Attach the black lead to a grounding strap and the red lead to one of the banded side of the coil diode (if it has one).
* Depending on the coil and game, you should see a reading of 20v-60v.

Please note that some games have a door interlock switch that kills power to the solenoids or may only supply power to the coils during test/game modes.

==Testing the coil diode==
If the coil wires are connected backwards, the coil diode will blow. If you fit a coil that is supposed to have a coil diode and it doesn't (or the diode has shorted on), you'll probably blow the driver transistor. This can lead into a vicious cycle of replacing coil diodes and driver transistors.

To test a coil diode:

* Cut one of the legs and bend it up so it's disconnected on one side. Be careful not to cut the coil wire or lug.
* Set your DMM to 'Diode' mode.
* Place the black lead on the non-banded side.
* Place the red lead on the banded side. You should see a reading of 0.5 or thereabouts.
* Carefully solder the leg 'back together.'

==Testing the driver transistors==
In your game manual you will (normally) find a list of which transistors is associated with each coil. If you have checked the wiring back to the driver board and the coil itself, then it's time to start testing the driver transistors. See "Testing a transistor" at [[General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29| here]] for more details.

=Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts=
Need to cover... 
resistor/capacitor networks (SRCs) 
SOIC to DIP adapters 

==Resistor Networks==
Resistor networks were used on many pinball PCBs to both ease the manufacturing process as well as to conserve printed circuit board space. Williams System 11 MPUs have several in the "battery corrosion zone" which sometimes need to be replaced.

Resistor networks come in two styles, bussed and isolated. Isolated resistor networks will have an even number of pins. Each 2-pin pair provides the resistor value. Typically, every other pin is tied to ground. Bussed resistor networks are similar, but each resistor shares pin 1 in common. All other pins provide the resistor value. In this sense, pin 1 (usually tied to ground) is "bussed". Bussed resistor networks may be of any length; both odd and even.

<center>
<gallery widths=220px heights=100px perrow=2 caption="Resistor Network Representations">
File:BussedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center>Bussed Resistor Network</center>
File:IsolatedResistorNetwork.jpg|<center>Isolated Resistor Network</center>
</gallery>
</center>
 
[[Image:ResistorNetworks.jpg|200px|thumb|left|A fabricated "isolated" resistor network on a Williams Hyperball driver board]]Should you be unable to acquire the correct value of resistor network, you can fabricate your own.

Isolated networks are easiest to fabricate as a discrete resistor may be substituted as shown in this picture. In the picture, SR16, SR2, and SR3 on a Hyperball driver board are replaced by discrete resistors. 

Bussed networks may be fabricated in much the same way, but with a resistor soldered in at each pin (except pin 1) and then all of the resistors other ends tied to pin 1. 
<need a picture of this>

=The Switch Matrix=
All solid state pinball machines implement a "switch matrix." The switch matrix is comprised of "strobe lines" (generally 8) and "return lines" (also generally 8). At the intersection of each strobe and return line, an isolation diode in series with the actual switch, connects the strobe line to the return line.

The reason for implementing a switch matrix is easily understood: economy of wiring. To sense 64 switches, a total of 16 wires are required using a switch matrix. If the designers had chosen to sense those same 64 switches individually, a minimum of 65 wires would be required.

'''How a switch matrix works'''

Conceptually, operation of the switch matrix is pretty simple. The CPU commands the return circuitry to "listen" for a pulse on each row simultaneously. The CPU then commands a strobe at column 1. Any switch that is closed on column 1 will cause the signal to be propagated down the row return where the CPU will "hear" it. A return on row 1 after pulsing column 1 means that the switch at position 1,1 in the switch matrix is closed. The CPU then moves on to column 2 and repeats the same steps. After all 8 columns are strobed, the CPU then returns to column 1 and begins the whole process again. This continues as long as the game is powered on.

Note that the actual electrical circuit implementation is quite a bit more complex than this conceptual description and may be found in the particular manufacturer's section of the Wiki. Also note that a "pulse" in this context might not be a "high" signal but instead a "change in state" (from logic 1 to logic 0 or vice verse).

A representation of the Bally/Williams WPC switch matrix is shown in the picture below. The column strobes are represented by the vertical lines. The row returns are represented by the horizontal lines. 

<center>[[File:Wpc sw matrix.png]]</center>
 

'''General Switch Matrix Debugging Tips'''

Switch matrix problem diagnosis always begins with determining whether the problem is on the CPU or on the playfield.

Under construction... 
Discuss using a diode/jumper to connect row and column at the CPU board. 
Discuss finding the "at fault" switch if the problem is on the PF. 
Insert animation created by Hibler/Palson here. 

=The Lamp Matrix=

Many (if not most) pinball makers used a lamp matrix to drive the game's controlled lamps. Manufacturers that used a lamp matrix include Williams, Data East, Sega, modern Stern games, and Gottlieb System 3 games (which have a hybrid switch/lamp matrix). Classic Bally/Stern games, Atari, and Gottlieb System 1 and System 80 games drive the controlled lamps with individual transistors (or silicon controlled rectifiers).

Other manufacturers' games drive lamps with individual transistors. This applies to all Bally games, Stern Electronics games, Atari games, and Gottlieb System 80 and System 1 games.

'''How the lamp matrix works'''

A lamp matrix consists of (typically) 8 column drives and (typically) 8 row returns. At each of the 64 (8x8) intersections of this 8-by-8 matrix, an isolation diode and a lamp in series, connect the column to the row. To light a particular lamp in a row, the processor sets up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for that row. The processor then "strobes" the column containing that lamp with a short pulse of "controlled lamp" power. Since the row has been set up to create a path to ground, the lamp illuminates.

The processor can light any or all lamps in a particular column simultaneously by setting up the row circuitry to create a path to ground for the desired lamps. When the column is "strobed", those lamps will light.

The processor will work it's way through the lamp matrix (column 1, column 2, ... column 8, repeat) continuously when controlled lamps are to be lit.

'''Advantages of the lamp matrix'''

#Fewer wires
#Sometimes easier to identify why a lamp is not lighting.

'''Lamp matrix problems'''

#Single lamp out
#Single lamp locked on
#multiple lamps in a row
#multiple lamps in a column
#seemingly random lamps lighting when they should not

'''Typical causes'''

#Wiring shorts
#Shorted diode(s)

=How coils are driven=

Under construction... 
Discuss "finding ground" via a controlled transistor to turn on a coil.

Every coil will have power "waiting at the ready" at the coils lugs. All that is required is for the ground lug of coil to find a path to ground. This is accomplished by "turning on" a transistor.

=Flippers=

;How does a flipper work?
:Flippers have two coil windings. One is a high powered, low resistance winding, used for the power stroke (initial "flip"). The other is used to keep the flipper held up, when you are holding the flipper to trap a ball. There needs to be a mechanism to switch from the high powered side to the low powered side. The high powered side of the coil is almost a dead short, and anything other than a momentary activation would cause the fuse to blow.

;High Voltage flipper operation
:The original flipper operation was completely high voltage, requiring tungsten point contacts at the flipper switches and at the normally closed end of stroke switches. These switches need to be filed periodically and gapped correctly for proper operation. A maladjusted end of stroke switch can burn out a coil or a fuse as well as damage the plastic bobbin the coil is wrapped around, making for sluggish operation. Tarnished and burnt contacts at any point in the system can cause a weak flipper power stroke, making for diminished game play. Additionally, there are contacts on a machine's flipper relay that may need to be cleaned to provide the maximum power to the flippers. Connectors and header pins can also play a factor in a flipper's power; heavily tarnished connections will degrade performance.

:When you press a flipper button, you are actually grounding the flipper circuit, not providing the power. The power is already present at the coil's input lug. The power flows from the power supply to the flipper coil in the most direct path possible. The input lug has the solenoid power present: one wire going to one blade of the end of stroke switch, and one end of the hold winding; one end of the high powered coil's winding is attached to the other blade of the end of stroke switch.

:The flipper button has one contact attached to the terminus of both flipper coil windings; the other contact is attached to ground via the flipper relay. When the flipper relay is pulled in a ground path exists for the flipper. When it is deactivated (in game over/tilt modes) there is no ground path for the flippers. When you push the flipper button, the power travels through the end of stroke switch, the high powered coil, through the flipper cabinet switch, and the relay to ground, pulling the flipper in with great force.

:A small arm on the pivot point of the flipper presses against the end of stroke switch outer blade, moving it away from the inner blade. This cuts the high power to the stroke side of the coil. Because the hold coil still is getting power via the input lug, the flipper will stay in an up position as long as you hold the button in. The hold coil has much greater resistance and so does not blow the fuse or create a short circuit.

;Solid State Flipper operation
:Solid state flippers do not refer to flippers in any solid state machine; rather, they refer to a design in later machines (post 1989) to eliminate the traditional high powered tungsten contacted type of flipper, which was subject to degradation over time. Less maintenance is required for solid state flippers.

:There are a few different designs to eliminate the high power switches used with flippers. One circuit monitors the time the flipper is held in; anything over 50-100 milliseconds continuous activation switches the power to the low side of the coil from the upper side electronically. Some designs of this nature also have a low powered normally open end of stroke switch, so that the flipper feels more like a traditional flipper. The time function of the solid state circuit only comes into play if the end of stroke switch is never detected, switching the power to the hold coil. Williams Fliptronics(tm) flippers operate in this fashion.

:Another design monitors the end of stroke switch/time and pulses the power supply to the flipper to reduce the voltage during the hold cycle. This allows a cheaper coil to be used as there is only one winding on the coil. Examples of this type of PVM flipper are late model Stern games. Sometimes the pulsing of the voltage causes the flipper to buzz slightly.

=Coil Chart=

Information on many common coils, including the winding resistance is available at
http://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

This information is helpful to check if the resistance measured on your coil is in the right range and can also help find a substitute coil that is close to the same strength.

=Lamp Chart=

{| class="wikitable sortable"
!Lamp
!Voltage (V)
!Current(A)
!Candle Power
!Life (hours)
!Base
!Typical Use
|----
|44
|6.3
|0.25
|0.9
|3,000
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)
|Common GI bulb
|----
|47
|6.3
|0.15
|0.5
|3,000
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)
|A low-power version of the #44; reduced heat and candle power
|----
|55
|7.0
|.41
|2.00
|500
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)
|Used on some EM games, high current, heat and candle power compared to #44 and #47
|----
|67
|13.5
|.59
|4.0
|5,000
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)
|F-14 Tomcat Flash Lamps
|----
|73
|14.0
|.80
|.30
|15,000
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)
|A low-power alternative for the 86 used in Twilight Zone's clock mechanism
|----
|86
|6.3
|.20
|.40
|15,000
|Wedge (T 1-3/4)
|Small lamp used in Creature from the Black Lagoon ramps and Twilight Zone's clock mechanism
|----
|89
|13.0
|.58
|6.00
|750
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)
|Flash Lamps on many Sys11/DE/WPC
|----
|194
|14.0
|.27
|2.00
|1,500
|Wedge
|Whitewater Topper Lamps
|----
|199
|12.8
|2.25
|32.00
|1500
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)
|HS2 Getaway Topper Lamp, CFTBL Hologram Lamp
|----
|313
|28
|0.17
|3.5
|500
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)
|Used for lower playfield illumination on Black Hole and Haunted House
|----
|447
|6.3
|0.15
|0.5
|3,000
|Wedge
|A low-power version of the 555; reduced heat and candle power
|----
|455
|6.5
|0.5
|N/A
|500
|Miniature Bayonet (BA9)
|Blinker
|----
|545
|6.5
|0.31
|N/A
|500
|Wedge
|Blinker - used in Twilight Zone, Dirty Harry, No Good Gofers
|----
|555
|6.3
|0.25
|0.9
|3,000
|Wedge
|Common GI bulb
|----
|906
|13.0
|.69
|6.00
|1000
|T-5 Wedge
|Flash Lamp
|----
|1251
|28.0
|.23
|3.00
|2,000
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)
|Pin-Bot and Cyclone Flash Lamps
|----
|1683
|28.0
|1.02
|32.00
|500
|S.C. Bayonet (BA15s)
|High Speed Topper Lamp
|----
|}

Notes:
#A "blinker" is a lamp with an internal thermal switch (a bi-metallic strip) that interrupts power to the lamp causing it to blink on and off; the cycle is usually a few seconds. These are often used behind the title on EM games. A "flash lamp" is a lamp that is purposely over-driven for a brief instant (milliseconds) to produce an extremely bright flash of light. These are used to draw attention to game features such as bonuses.
#47 lamp is often used as a replacement for 44 lamps where heat is a concern for backglass or plastics.
#447 lamp serves the same purpose replacement for 555 lamps.
#Candlepower is measured in Mean Spherical Candlepower (MSCP)
#T-3 1/4 refers shape and size, for example T-3 1/4 is "tubular", 3.25 8ths of an inch in diameter

Detailed specifications on lamps is available at http://www.donsbulbs.com . Just enter the lamp number in the "Bulb Search" field.

=Lamp Sockets=

=Fuse Table=

<center>'''Pinball Machine Fuse Table'''</center><center>Some games may have different fuses and quantities</center>

{| width="100%" border="1" align="center"
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally EM'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb EM'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams EM'''
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 5A
| BR, DC coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB
| Drop target bank
| width="4%" align="center" | 6
| 10A
| Main, BR, coils
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 8A
| Main line fuse
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Main line fuse
| width="4%" align="center" | 6
| 15A
| Lamps, coils
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| 10A
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| 10A
| Lamps
| width="4%" align="center" |
|
|
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| 15A
| Lamps
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| 15A
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" |
|
|
|- align="left"
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Atari'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Bally/Stern (1977-1984)'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Gottlieb Solid-State'''
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 3
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB
| Coils-under PF
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB
| Displays
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB
| Service outlet
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB
| Main line power
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1A SB
| Coils
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Main power
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 3/16A
| High Voltage on SDB
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB
| Drop target bank
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 3/4A
| Display power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Main, coils, lamps
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 10A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 4A
| 12v/5v power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 8A
| Lamps
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 15A SB
| PS, lamps, displays
| width="4%" align="center" | 3
| 5A
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 10A
| Lamps
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 15A
| General Illumination
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 20A
| Switched Lamps
|
|
|
|-
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams L3-L7 (1977-1984)'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams System 9-11 (1985-1990)'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC (1990-1994)'''
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB
| Display high voltage
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 1/4A SB
| Power supply (displays)
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/8A SB
| Display driver board
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 3
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 5
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2A SB
| Aux board
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB
| Coils, flippers
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB
| Sound board
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 2-1/2A SB
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 3
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Power supply, lamps
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| 5v power (L7 games)
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB
| Coils, flippers
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| Power supply
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 8A
| Main, switched lamps
| width="4%" align="center" | 6
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Flpr, aux, cab, lamps
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 3/4A
| 12v power supply
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 20A
| General illumination
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 8A
| Main, switched lamps
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 1/10A
| Cabinet, displays
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| 3/4A
| 12v power supply
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| 8A
| Main, switched lamps
|
|
|
|-
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Data East'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Sega & New Stern'''
| bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | Qty
| colspan="2" bgcolor="darkgray" align="center" | '''Williams WPC-95 (1995-1999)'''
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 3
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB
| Coils, flippers
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3/4A SB
| Display
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.315A SB
| Display
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 3A SB
| Coils, flippers
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T0.63A SB
| 12v PS F101
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Lamps, power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 4A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 5
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T4.0A SB
| Cls,5/12v,lmps,flsh,flpr,ln
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| Power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 4
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 5A SB
| Coils, lamps
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T5.0A SB
| Switched lamps, line
|-
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB
| Line, power supply
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 7A SB
| Coils
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | T6.3A SB
| Coils main F108
|-
|
|
|
| width="4%" align="center" | 1
| bgcolor="lightgreen" | 8A SB
| Power line, lamps
| width="4%" align="center" | 2
| T2.5A
| Audio F501, F502
|}

=Game Software (ROMs)=
The code used for solid state games is generally stored in EPROM chips that are located in sockets on the PCBs in the head of the pinball machine. Separate ROMs are used for CPU, sound, and display, and more than one chip may be used for each. Code is updated as bugs are found and features are added. In a few cases special home versions of ROMs have been released containing more modes and special features and these home versions are set to allow free play only. In any case it is a good idea to have the latest version of software running on a machine. Game code can be found at manufactures web sites and burned to an EPROM. Most people do not have access to a ROM burner and these chips can be ordered from many [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers |pinball parts suppliers.]]

Updating the software is usually as simple as removing the old chips and installing the new ones. ROMs are notched on one end. Be sure to insert your new ROM with the notch at the same end as the one you removed. ROM sockets are notched also. Sometimes there is a need to have minor board modifications to allow for a newer type ROM. An example of this is the jumper installation needed on [[Funhouse |Funhouse]] for a larger ROM size. Check to make sure your new ROM is a direct replacement.

Take care when removing the old EPROM chip. Do not pry the old chip up with a flat head screwdriver - or use caution while working from both ends when doing so. A chip puller is the safest way to remove the old chips. When installing the new chip gently press in each end of the chip until it is fully seated. Make sure all pins are lining up with the chip sockets.

Newer Stern machines allow game code to be upgraded via USB transfer and no ROM burning is required.

=Tuning a Game for Best Performance=

==Leveling the Game==
:One of the most important things you can do to tune a game is make sure the playfield is level side to side. Some games contain a bubble level on the apron to check side to side leveling. Do to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the level should be checked. Use an inclinometer or small torpedo level to check the side to side level. An inclinometer application can be used on a smartphone, as well. Check the level on the playfield itself, NOT on the playfield glass. The playfield may not sit level in the cabinet, or may be warped. Check the the level at several points on the upper and lower playfield. Adjust using the leg levelers. After your done, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.

==Adjusting the Game Pitch==
:The pitch of the game drastically affects game play. A steeper game plays faster. Too steep can tax the flippers ability to make ramp shots. Too shallow, slows the game down. Too shallow can also allow the ball to be redirected more by playfield irregularities, such as warped inserts. Again, due to differing floor conditions, any time a game is moved, the pitch should be checked. The proper pitch of a given game may be indicated in the manual. In the case of games which include a bubble level for pitch, the manufacturers recommendations may be marked on the level. In the case where a recommended pitch is not indicated, the generally accepted "Rule of Thumb" is 3 1/2 degrees for EM games and 6 1/2 to 7 degrees for Solid State Games. Use an inclinometer, again on the playfield itself NOT the playfield glass, to measure pitch. Adjust using the leg levelers. After you're done leveling, make sure you tighten the locknuts on the levelers.

:Some players will adjust the pitch outside of "Factory" settings, to suit their taste or playing style. After playing a game for a while on the "Standard" settings, you may wish to experiment with different pitches.

==Balls==
:Inspect the balls in a game regularly to ensure none are pitted or becoming rusty. A damaged ball has the potential to strip playfield ink in a very short time. Keep the balls clean and polish them occasionally with a soft cloth; try not to put balls back in the machine that have skin oil on them. Transfer from the cloth directly to the machine.

:The more close to round a ball is the better/more wild it will play. Balls are just ball bearings, and are manufactured to tolerances up to .001%. You don't need a ball that true to put in a pinball, but if you can afford them, they would play very well. Buying pinballs from a reputable supplier is fine; a pinball costs between 90 cents to 5 dollars depending on finish and tolerance.

==Adjusting flippers==
:Nothing impacts a game's performance more than the performance of its flippers. The entire game can be smooth playing and work properly, yet with bad flippers no one will enjoy it to its full potential. The proper rebuilding and tuning of flippers impacts a game's performance about 70% vs. 30% for all the other parts in the game.

:High voltage end of stroke switches need to be filed flat or replaced and should open with between 1/8"-1/4" gap at full extension. Flipper cabinet switches need to be filed and dressed as well, provided they are heavy, tungsten contacts. '''Do not''' file cabinet switches of games which use solid state flipper assemblies. These switches are gold plated. Filing will remove the plating and ruin the switch. For those switches, draw an old business card between the contacts as you pinch them together. This will clean the contacts sufficiently. Any connector in the flipper power path should be replaced or eliminated if possible (for instance, games that use spade lugs to attach their flipper button blades should have their wires soldered directly to the blade instead). Flipper relays need to be cleaned and contacts dressed as well, and their solder mount points re-flowed.

:The angle of the flipper should be adjusted to the slope of the inlane guide (if present) and the inlane guides tweaked (either by slight movement or bending if wire type) so that no ball hop off the lane guide occurs. This issue is especially prevalent on Bally games with wire guides and early Williams' solid state games with flat metal guides; the flat metal edge gets hammered over the years as well as the guide itself loosening in its mounting screws cause it to sit lower than intended. Games without inlane guides should be checked against a reference (flyer) picture to determine the proper play angle, but some leeway is permitted here in the interests of gameplay. Under no circumstances should an opposing pair of flippers be adjusted so that one rests higher/lower than the other, nor both flippers extended not be at the same height.

:The flipper bat should have a slight up-down play as you pull away from the playfield at both its rest position and extended position. Swapping worn parts from left to right or the reverse can help you re-use worn parts where replacements are not available. Rebuild and redress any worn out parts if at all possible. Reverse all hacks over the years to restore the play to its original intentions.

:Some mechanisms (Bally linear flipper mechanism spotlighted) benefit from having earlier style parts (plunger, link, and pawl) swapped into their assemblies for better flipper action. The linear flipper while fine when new has a fast-wearing part in the form of the nylon bearing on its lever assembly; the earlier style parts swap in place no problem and last much longer, as well as being a zippier flip thanks to the lighter mass of its parts.

==Adjusting drop targets==
:Most drop targets are made of plastic and are made to run 'dry', i.e. no lubrication. If you must lube them, use graphite powder or a lube specifically made for plastic on metal. Note that any lube used will tend to make the area under the playfield very messy so use very sparingly if at all. The first order of business is to disassemble the drop mechanism and clean every part very, very well. For metal parts use a metal polish to make sure there are no really sharp edges or burrs to cause wear. You might have to use a small file to dull any sharp edges. Plastic drop parts polish with Novus 2 after cleaning any grease off with a degreaser safe for plastics (simple green works well).

:Williams targets with contacts that ride on a circuit board would benefit from a very light application of DeOxIt. The later targets that depend on a copper blade for forward tension you can use teflon lube on the copper blade; wipe it on with your finger and wipe almost all of it off. You want the least amount of lube possible. The copper blade can be bent but be careful as the blade should be flat along its length; you want JUST enough tension so the target presses forward, but not so much that the target won't fall when you hit it.

:When you reassemble Williams drop banks, do not over tighten the screws that hold the metal bars to the plastic bosses - you will ruin the tension on the drop bank and possibly crack the screw boss, rendering it useless (these parts are currently unavailable new). Just snug the bar down to the drop bank and let the lock washer do its job holding it on.

:Gottlieb drop targets are the best designed and built targets in the business. As usual, Gottlieb didn't cut corners with their design, so there are 2 discrete springs used to pull the drops in the proper directions to reset correctly, and provide the correct spring tension on the pulldown stroke. Additionally, the reset mech is mounted at an angle so the drops reset smoothly and correctly. Gottlieb drops should be adjusted to reset approximately 1/16 of an inch "above" the bank's top plate. You can loosen the reset coil mounts to slide the coil into place to accomplish this. Letting them reset too high (caused when the coil mount migrates to the bottom of its travel) will tend to break off the "foot" on each drop target. Once this happens a Gottlieb drop can reset in a very awkward position, higher than it should be; a snappy ball hit when it's in this position often will snap the target in 2.

:Bally drop targets come in 2 varieties - "tombstone" and "flattop". The flattop ones were designed for games that use an inline drop target assembly (Paragon, Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, others) or a single drop target where the ball travels over the drop target (Flash Gordon, Rolling Stones, others). The flattop targets that have a ball path over them need to be adjusted so the target top is flush with the playfield so the ball can travel over them easily. On a single drop, you can bend the foot that's under the drop target stem to accomplish this, or loosen it and move it up or down to accomplish the same thing. On an inline bank mechanism, you want to adjust the bottom foot plate to do the same thing, which can be difficult for the center targets. Some experimentation is necessary here.

:For Bally flattop drops that aren't in an inline configuration you want the drop to sit very slightly above the playfield surface (1/16 inch or less) - this is so a ball will not tend to get stuck in the slot formed by the target spaces and the playfield. Adjusting the height the drops rest at can be accomplished by moving (or bending) the foot plate or adding a spacer made out of shims (cardboard, thin metal, etc.) Install the shim on the top of the bottom frame where the foot of the plastic target rests. You can use tension clips or even a paper clip to hold your shim in place, just be sure it doesn't interfere with the operation of the targets or reset mechanism.

:The thickness of the Bally drops sometimes cause what's called "bricking" of the drop targets - a hard shot to the drops will result in the ball bouncing off the target (sometimes snapping it in half!) but the drop not dropping. There are a couple things you can try to fix this, but there's no one definitive solution that works (other than swapping in a Gottlieb target bank if you can!) - some of the things you can try are shaving a minute angle into the drop shelf where the target sits at rest under tension, changing the angle of the spring, changing the tension of the spring, and moving the entire bank inside the slot as far forward as possible. Some more radical solutions over the years have been tried to fix this issue. Adding extra springs, epoxying spring steel to the back of the target, melting notches into the target with a soldering iron, beveling the under playfield area with a chisel, changing the rubber behind the targets (fat rubber makes the bricking worse), and changing the posts behind the targets to a smaller size have all been tried with varying degrees of success, but none have fixed the issue 100%.

:The newness of the drop target seems to be directly proportional to its propensity to brick; the older the drop, the more it tends to drop smoother because of years of wear. This is particularly poignant with classic Stern drop targets; they are similar to Bally drops but the reset shelf is lower on the target itself; a Stern drop can be modified to work in a Bally machine, by shaving this rib off, but not recommended as classic Stern drop targets have not been available in the "chichlet" style for over 25 years.

:Classic Stern drops were originally similar to the "tombstone" Bally style (they're called "chichlets"), and worked well (overall the non-flattop style of drop works well in terms of non-bricking, but often a ball could be come trapped between targets). Adjusting the down position of the targets is similar to the flattops but with slightly more height vs. the pf, 3/32" vs. 1/16". A radical solution to this if you get this problem constantly would be to glue a piece of wood cut to fit between the targets and the slot and glued into place eliminates the gap that the ball gets stuck in, but this is a very radical solution and not recommended for most machines.

:The metal parts on classic Stern drop mechanisms tend to wear and need metal cleaning/polishing to be refurbished properly. Teflon lube should be used very sparingly (wipe on, wipe almost all off.... if you can see it, it's too much) on any metal to metal contact points. Any metal coil sleeves used in drop mechanisms should be replaced with the proper sized nylon sleeves instead. The metal fingers where the drop targets contact their switches need a slight bit of lube also, less than used anywhere else. The switches themselves need to be adjusted to provide the least amount of drag to the dropping finger but still also contact enough pressure to provide some wiping action to the 2nd switch contact.

:Adjusting a drop bank so that a balancing act is performed can be a bit of an art; you want the least resistance to dropping and resetting possible while still maintaining all drops resetting properly every time. There's nothing more frustrating from a player perspective than making a good shot on a drop target and it not dropping. If adjusted properly a bank can be 'swept' with an oblique flipper shot, all drops including the stubborn tending Williams and Bally drops will sweep if clean and adjusted carefully.

==Tweaking a pop bumper==
:Pop bumpers should be adjusted so the slightest touch of a ball at any point causes them to activate, but not be so sensitive that vibration causes them to activate. Clean the spoon switch actuator very well. If it's plastic you can use novus to polish it. If it's metal some 2000 grit sandpaper will polish it nicely. On solid state or EM machines with high voltage points, you should file the switches clean and flat. On machines with gold flashed contacts, inspect them well and clean with brasso, alcohol, or a business card wiped between the points. If any part of the gold plating is breached, replace the contact with a new one. Gold plated contacts with missing plating will never be 100% reliable again.

:Adjust the position of the spoon switch underneath the skirt's actuator so that the pin sits naturally in the center of the spoon switch. The spoon switch bracket has oblong mounting holes for exactly this purpose. To see if the pin is in the center, you can press up on the spoon switch from the bottom - if the skirt pin moves, it's not centered. Once it's positioned in the center, tighten the switch bracket mounting screws. Now, using a contact adjuster tool, adjust either the spoon blade itself (for metal ones) or the blade that provides the tension to the plastic spoon so that there's barely tension on the actuation pin (the softer this adjustment, the more sensitive the pop bumper will be). You want enough force so that the spoon re-centers the pin, but not so much that anything other than a hard ball hit activates the bumper. With the playfield raised you can activate the pop skirt by hand to see how much to adjust the spoon. It takes several tries to get this right, but it's well worth taking the time to do this.

:Adjust the second blade to between 1/16"-1/8" gap between the contacts of the first blade. This will vary depending on if the machine uses high voltage activation of pop bumpers or not. You want the gap close enough so the pop is sensitive, but not so close that other mechanisms in the machine activate the pop. A good way to test this is to adjust the switch, then with the playfield lowered, make a fist and pound on the playfield in the area of the pops.

:Some machines that use direct activation of pops might benefit from wiring in a Gottlieb pop bumper driver board. This applies mostly to Gottlieb System 1 solid state machines, but could also be used on some early Williams games as well as specialized purposes on other games. Basically, high voltage activated switches can pit and arc; generally, they require a slightly larger gap to ensure the contacts do not weld together from the arcing. Using a pop bumper driver board on this type of bumper with the actuation contacts changed to gold flashed type allow a closer switch gap, and the board provides a solid activation regardless of how hard the skirt was hit.

:A specialized purpose for a pop bumper driver board would be on a Stern 9 Ball, for the lone pop at the top. Bally/Stern machines do not have the ability to fire more than one momentary solenoid simultaneously; this comes into heavy play on 9 Ball as the drop banks reset and drop their targets. It is possible for the top pop to not fire while this resetting is going on, especially if the game is set to require both 3 bank drops to reset to advance the bonus multiplier. The scenario is this: You drop both banks and the ball hits the pop.... with a thud. You receive score for the hit, but the pop doesn't fire because the 2 3 bank drop targets are still resetting. Changing the pop to activate with a pop bumper driver board removes the hardware limitation from the equation, as the pop is able to activate on its own; the mpu still scores the pop as a secondary switch gets added similar to Gottlieb System 1 games or early williams games.

:For a while Wico made a plastic pop bumper assembly that used a plastic rod and ring combination. This was used on their game Af-Tor and also on Stern machines starting around Cheetah to the end of classic Stern production. This plastic rod and ring weighs much less than the metal assembly normally used, and can be swapped into the metal type with a little effort. The resulting quicker reacting pop is amazing in its smoothness and reaction time; you will get much better pop action with this substitution. It works even better than putting a stronger coil in the metal ringed pop bumper assembly, which will also pop the bumper quicker, but the moving mass of the metal rod and ring still make that combo slower reacting. Game plan may have used this plastic combination for a while also, as did Pinstar's Gamatron conversion kit.

==Tuning a spinner==
:Nothing beats a solid spinner hit, spinning and racking up points at a furious pace. On the flip side, nothing sucks the enthusiasm out of a nice shot more than a spinner weakly spinning a few times lethargically, adding a couple points to your score. There are a couple tricks and techniques to make your spinners spin quick and long.

:First, disassemble the spinner and clean all gunk off the support wires. The cleaner a part is in general the smoother it will operate. Polish the contact points of the support wires with 200 grit sandpaper and a metal polish such as Brasso, or even Novus 2 (a plastic polish, but will work for this application). You want the support wires as smooth and round as possible. Then, using a very small round file, dress the holes in the spinner bracket so there are no rough edges both inside the hole and on the outside. Smooth is the key here.

:Reassemble the spinner with one plastic disc against the spinner body, the below-playfield actuator wire, then another plastic disc towards the outside of the spinner. The discs and actuator wire shouldn't be 'snug.' There should be a little room for the wire to twist slightly if needed. The spinner should rest with a very slight forward cant, where the top of the spinner is slightly forward of the bottom. Adjust this by bending the spinner wires in the bracket by pushing up or down on the spinner flag itself. If you have the spinner adjusted perfectly perpendicular, the spinner can and will stop 'upside down' on occasion, locking the switch on.

:Take some Teflon lube gel on a toothpick and put just a touch of it at the metal to metal contact point in the spinner bracket. Move the spinner back and forth and spin it to distribute the lube evenly. A simple rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see any, you used too much. Less is more here.

:Adjust the switch blade so the spinner activates near the peak of its spin; you want it to kiss the stationary blade just slightly, with a very slight deflection. Another trick to consider is to change the height of the posts (or add spacers/washers) the spinner bracket rests on to raise the bracket slightly. The more to an edge the ball hits the spinner, the more energy is imparted to the spin. This is also another reason for the slight forward cant on the spinner.

:A spinner can get up to 200 spins with one solid hit depending on the machine and flipper strength, well worth tweaking so it performs at its peak.

==Tweaking Tilt Mechanisms==
:Most would ask why you would want to tune a tilt mechanism. Like it or not, tilt is part of the game of pinball. Unless you remove your tilts entirely, you want them to activate in a fair, consistent manner. There's nothing worse than playing a spirited game and tilting because a solid hit one time doesn't tilt, but yet a light hit later on tilts your ball.

:Disassemble the tilt mech and clean everything really well to remove the gunk and grease. Use a metal polish such as Brasso to polish every part of the mech: The plumb bob, the wire, the brackets (both the top bracket and the round lower bracket). When you reassemble the mechanism, the position you put the plumb bob in makes a huge difference in how the tilt operates. Almost all parts manuals picture the plumb bob inverted (small side down) ABOVE the actuator ring, but almost all games have the bob BELOW the ring instead. Each position causes the tilt mechanism to behave differently.

:The inverted position allows quicker recovery after a tilt; the rod stops moving quicker as the weight is closer to its pivot point. If you like your tilts tight, raising the challenge, the inverted position is the one to use as you can adjust the tilt to a hair level, but not so much that you tilt subsequent balls on a tilt. The disadvantages are that you have to remove the ring to insert the bob correctly, and that if the bob ever loosens up, it will just sit on the ring causing a non-playable machine.

:The "normal" position does not have the issue just described; if the bob falls off, you end up with no tilt. Because the weight is farther along the rod, the tilt adjusted this way takes longer to recover after hits and may in fact swing for a very long time (2 minutes or more depending on the force imparted).

:Regardless of the bob position chosen, you want the bob to be centered in the ring assembly. This can be accomplished by moving the ring if it has slots to do so, or by bending the hanger bracket the rod is suspended from. Sometimes you can flip the ring assembly upside down to obtain a better profile for the bob and ring to meet.

:Shaking a pin is a part of the game, and possibly the greater factor in making you a better player. If you can impart force to the ball through shaking on a tight tilted machine, you will find yourself a much better player in all situations. Anyone can brute force manhandle a machine with no tilt; it takes skill and finesse to do so on a machine with a hair tilt.

==Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches==
:Rollover switches should offer little resistance to the ball rolling over them. A ball hang up should never occur on a rollover switch wireform; if it does, the tension on the blade is too great and needs to be backed off. The contact points should be adjusted so the contacts kiss with a very slight wiping motion, and release smartly (to prevent duplicate hits from switch bounce).

:Only clean gold flashed contacts with a business card, Brasso, or alcohol. Never ever file gold plated contacts. Once the gold plating is breached, the switch will never be 100% reliable again. Often early solid state games up until 1984 or so have had their plated switches filed by the original operator who didn't think the warnings in the manual and often printed on under playfield labels to NOT file the switches applied to them. Inspect all switches to see if this has occurred and replace any filed contacts with new.

:Clean the switch wireform actuator well by disassembling it and polishing it with a metal polish such as Brasso. Even though the wireforms are a metal to metal contact, you do not need to use any lubricant on it as it is not a tight metal to metal contact, nor does it need the reduced friction to operate smoothly.

:The switch blade tension should be enough to hold the wireform up but allow it to depress smoothly with any speed rolling ball. Switch blades with bends and kinks in them from improper adjustment should be replaced or straightened as much as possible, and any missing insulating fishpaper should be replaced. If a dead stop blade (has a sharp bend in the middle) is on a switch adjust that instead of adjusting the switch blade its' stopping instead.

==Tweaking lane guides==
:Lane guides are bent pieces of wire that feed inlanes/other areas of the playfield. They are also formed by plastic hoods that fit over posts, to form channels for the ball to travel. They do not require much maintenance at all, but there are a couple of things to check to ensure they are attached properly and feed the ball in the correct direction.

:The plastic hood over post type doesn't really have any adjustments involved - you need to make sure the posts are held fast to the playfield. If they are lose at all, fill the mounting hole with some kind of wood filler (hardwood dowels and glue works well) and do not over-tighten the mounting screw when you reinstall. For really bad holes or posts that just get hammered (for instance, near pop bumper nests) you might want to consider replacing the wood screw with a machine thread screw and T-nut underneath the playfield. Often lamp wiring would get in the way of this however so check carefully before you upgrade.

:The lane guide can be made to play differently depending on what rings you install on them. A good option is to put a slightly fatter ring on the top post of the guide so you can get bouncier action if you need to shake to get a certain lane. The fatter rubber closes off the lane space slightly, but it makes it easier to nudge to move the ball around, essential on older games without lane change or many, many lanes at the top. A tighter ring can be used on the bottom post of the guide to allow the ball to travel back UP through the lane easier, usually from a lucky pop bumper carom.

:Wire lane guides are usually found directing the ball towards the flippers (inlane guides). The mounting holes can be egged out and again, can be filled and drilled. No glue is needed to hold the wire guide itself in, it's held by friction so when you drill the hole, go one drill size small then needed and press fit the lane guide in. Some wire guides have tangs that help hold the guide in correctly.

:The wire guides that feed the flippers are especially important to have their angle adjusted correctly. You want to avoid a hop as the ball transitions from wire to flipper bat. You can put a very slight bend in the wire's vertical orientation to tweak this transition. The best way to bend it is to remove it from the game and bend it slightly with pliers; do not try to tweak this in the game as it puts undue stress on the mounting hole.

:Another type of lane guide is a flat steel type guide used in an orbit or passageway back to the top of the playfield. Not a lot to tweak here but check that the mounting plates are not cracked and the screw holes are tight. Some guides have some adjustment built into them to tweak their positions. (Whirlwind and Flash are two examples that have this type in their shooter lanes.) If you find you need to tweak the position of the lane, fill the old hole completely with a hardwood dowel and glue, position the guide appropriately, mark and drill a new mounting screw. You can also use a dremel or similar to grind out a slot making a normally non-adjustable guide adjustable. The left lane guide above the upper left flipper on Eight Ball Deluxe is an example of a guide that almost always needs tweaking to avoid a flipper bounce action on a ball coming down the left guide, spoiling your cross-playfield shot aim.

:Some early Bally and Stern games have a plastic inlane guide that becomes malformed or have its tip broken off. You can cut a replacement piece out of clear lexan to replace these. Cut the replacement piece as if you were cutting the entire piece of plastic, and attach it underneath the existing plastic. Another trick for the plastic lane guides is to embed a small wire guide in the appropriate position underneath the plastic guide. This is not as seamless as the clear plastic method, but it does play very well and avoids any headaches mounting the double layer of plastic.

==Rubber? I hardly knew her!==
:There used to be only one type of rubber available for all pinball machines - a soft gum rubber that was off-white in color, but was very bouncy and gave good ball action. Today, most rubber is available in either stark white or black, and various colors. In general, black rubber plays harder (i.e. less bounce) than white rubber, but that's not always the case. You have to try rubber rings from different makers to see how they play. If you like a more controlled type of gameplay, the harder less bouncy rubber might be for you. If you like the randomness imparted to the ball by bouncier rubber use a different variety. The soft gum rubber if you can find it is incredibly bouncy, and because of the stickiness of the rubber will impart more spin to the ball, truly making it wild.

:Whatever rubber you end up using, there is still some variety in sizing and mounting. You can change the way your game plays by changing the size of the rings used; go one size smaller and hard shots to that rubber will rebound harder accordingly. Fatter rubber on mini posts will make shots tighter and harder, but also allow for more nudging action. Changing the type of ring to a different type can affect vastly how the game plays - if you like more pop bumper action for instance off a rubber, you can change where the rubber mounts (i.e. which posts surrounding the pop) to have a larger expanse of rubber vs. not. Don't go so far as to add new posts in to accommodate the new rubber position, unless you're really sure that's what you want. Keep in mind if you go with tighter rubber you might have problems keeping the posts mounted in the playfield, and may have to move to a machine threaded screw instead if the tension is too high.

==Plungers==
:Never run a plunger without a rubber tip on it. (It will mushroom out very quickly necessitating filing or hacksaw cutoff of the tip.) The plunger itself should be centered with respect to the ball track, and forward enough so the tip holds the ball forward of the playfield lip. Sometimes plungers get bent because people lift the machine by the plunger; it is best to replace the plunger in these cases.

:The barrel spring on the outside of the plunger varies in length, new ones are generally too stiff for the plunger to sit at its optimal position. You can mash the new springs in a vice to shorten them a bit. Do not run a plunger without the proper springs installed as it will damage the escutcheon plate on the cabinet, either denting it in the case of metal ones, or cracking it in the case of plastic ones.

:There are screws holding the plunger's position in place, loosen slightly so you can slide the mechanism around to get the best positioning. Tighten each opposing side a little at a time so you don't cant the mechanism to one side or the other, and don't overtighten it as that will put dents in the wood of the cabinet.

:Make sure the spring you are using on the inside is the proper one for your game. Some games require a different tension to allow skill shots to be made (Whirlwind and Twilight Zone are 2 examples). Some games need a very strong spring to launch the ball properly (Pinbot and Taxi). When replacing the inner spring, get rid of the weaker "C" clip that holds it on and replace with an "E" clip, which is stronger and easier to install/remove.

==Coil Sleeves==
:Older games used aluminum coil sleeves to guide the mechanism's plunger smoothly into the coil. The function of a coil sleeve is to reduce the distance between the solenoid coil bore and the mechanism plunger, resulting in more precise action. An upgrade that can be done to aluminum coil sleeves is to replace them with more modern nylon ones. Nylon has self-lubricating qualities that make it ideal for this usage. No lube should ever be used on any solenoid plunger. It will just gum up over time and cause weak mechanism response and a nice mess for the next person to clean up. Any machine with lube used in the past on its plungers should have the mechanisms disassembled, its metal parts cleaned with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and reassembled with a new nylon sleeve cut to the proper length.

:To cut nylon coil sleeves to length use a junker plunger in the center and a pipe cutter (available at most hardware stores). Tighten the cutter a little at a time to ensure the smoothest finish possible on the coil sleeve; don't try and make the cut in one go as that will result in a rough edge to the sleeve. Smoother is always better in a mechanism employing solenoids and plungers. File off and dress any sharp metal edges on a plunger that could snag the coil sleeve as it moves in the solenoid.

==Connectors and Soldering==
:Anytime an electrical part of a machine has intermittent operation suspect any connectors in its power chain. Any connector in a power chain at its best adds a minute amount of resistance to the power flow. Jones plugs' connectors can be cleaned and polished on the older EM machines; newer solid state machines you can try and polish the pins, but the best thing to do is replace or eliminate the connectors if you can and they are causing problems.

:Often on solid state boards the male header pins crack from usage fatigue. Resoldering the header pins will fix this issue and while it's not strictly necessary to replace the header pins, it wouldn't hurt either. Tug on and inspect all connectors to ensure the wiring is crimped tightly into the pin. Any loose wires should have their pins replaced with new properly crimped pins. Do not use solder on a crimped pin connector; it changes the temper of the connector pin which allows oxygen to penetrate the wire bundle, allowing oxidation.

:If you have some microswitches that use a spade connector, consider removing the connector and soldering the wire directly to the lug. The spade connectors were used on the wiring harnesses at the factory to speed production, not for any reliability concerns. Any connector added to a circuit introduces an unnecessary possible failure point. Any trouble shooting involving a circuit with a connector should have its connectors inspected very carefully as a first step.

==Slingshots==
:Pull the sling plastic and rubber off the slingshots. Make sure the posts are tight to the playfield, filling any loose ones or changing them to machine threaded screws into T-nuts. It's very common for the sling rubber over time to pull the posts towards each other, and the sling plastic being depended upon to hold them apart. This is not desirable at all.

:Adjust the standup switches so that the blade that touches the rubber is barely touching it. You don't want the blade adding any tension to the sling rubber itself. The secondary switch should be as close as you can make it to the first, as long as both blades are parallel. This is a very critical adjustment to make as you have 2 switches acting together, and you want one activation, not multiples as the rubber bounces back.

:The size of rubber you use on the sling makes a huge difference in how it performs. Tighter lets you get the slings more sensitive, but can also limit how much the sling can move. Too loose will cause myriad problems getting the switches adjusted correctly.

:Sometimes there are nails straddling the sling actuator arm; the purpose of these nails is twofold. First, they help support the sling plastic in the case of sagging, so it doesn't hit the actuator arm. Secondly, it prevents the sling rubber from pressing back really far causing a weak sling. (The switches should never activate that far back, either - this would make for a very unresponsive sling).

:It is worthwhile to remove the sling arm and clean it really well, and to check for wear. You will usually see some slop in a sling mech if it's excessive power will be lost laterally on activation. The only remedy is to replace it, or try and find small nylon washers to hold it true. Use a small bit of teflon lube on the pivot point. As usual, wipe it on and off. If you can see it, it's too much.

:Make sure the sling arm is held tight to the playfield, filling and drilling as needed. If there is a scoring switch attached here, make sure there's a fiberboard spacer between the metal blade and the actuator. Adjusting the scoring switch can be problematic as there's a fine line between not scoring and scoring twice (as the switch blade bounces).

==Standup/stationary Targets==
:Remove the target and inspect well. You can clean grease off the target with a pencil eraser or novus 2. Some standups would benefit from having a piece of weatherstripping foam added if not already present. (Any standup that gets hit with lots of force needs a foam block). Early solid state Bally, Stern, and Gottlieb games can benefit from a switch capacitor being added to help their performance. The switch capacitor lengthens quick hits to the standup so the MPU board can read even a very fast switch closure.

:Make sure the mounting bracket isn't bend so the target becomes leaning backwards - this will cause airballs and broken plastics. If anything the target should be angled slightly forward to help prevent this. Some machines would benefit from a brace on the back of the target to minimize bending.

:Any standup with gold plated contact points should be inspected for filing - if the gold plating is gone, replace the contact points. Make sure the target bracket is held onto the playfield securely, fill and drill any egged out mounting holes.

Funhouse

2011-06-25T02:51:22Z

Williams: /* Game-Specific Issues */

Pinball Restoration

2011-06-20T04:18:16Z

Williams: /* Using and Building a Playfield Rotisserie */

==Overview==

Pinball restoration spans from what is required to make the machine playable to complete overhaul that makes the machine better than new.

==Clearcoating the Playfield==

==Using and Building a Playfield Rotisserie==
A playfield rotisserie is a useful tool when restoring a pinball machine. The playfield is removed from the machine and mounted to a rotisserie. The rotisserie allows easier access to all areas of a playfield that may not be possible with the playfield still in the cabinet. A rotisserie also allows the playfield to be rotated for easier access to both the top and bottom.

Rotisseries are commercially available from [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers | pinball suppliers]] but can also be easily built using readily available parts from a home improvement store. Different designs are available but one of the more popular ones is [http://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/MUCCofqKYL0 discussed on rec.games.pinball.]

==Sealing the Backglass==

Sealing a backglass refers to treating the backside of the backglass to stabilize any peeling ink. Like most pinball topics, there are diverse opinions on how to seal a backglass as well as when, if ever, it should be done. The goal of this article is to present the facts so you can make an informed decision.

The most common method of sealing a backglass is using Krylon Triple Thick Crystal Clear . The best time to seal a backglass is right before it starts to peel. (Unfortunately, no one knows when that time is.) The condition of a backglass depends on many different factors like where the machine was used and/or stored, the manufacturer, and the year. Inks and glass seem to have varied over time.

The '''con''' to sealing a backglass is that no one knows how well Triple Thick (or other clears) will hold up over the next 30 years. A backglass that is in good shape after the last (approximately) 30 years is very likely to continue to hold up well, especially considering that in your home collection the machine will be stored at a fairly stable temperature and humidity. Besides, if you notice problems starting to develop in the future there will still be time to seal it.

The basic process is outlined below:
* Carefully clean the back of the backglass with a small amount of glass cleaner (e.g. Windex), avoiding any areas of loose ink.
* Cut cardboard masking for the score and credit windows.
* Lay the backglass flat on a level surface and weight the cardboard masking down with weights (pennies work well).
* Spray a light mist coat of Triple Thick. This stabilizes any loose ink pieces. Let dry for 30-60 minutes.
* Spray a coat of Triple Thick. If you plan to do touch-up painting keep this coat fairly thin.
* Let dry.
* Touch up painting with acrylic paint can now be done. Since you're painting over the Triple Thick mistakes can be easily wiped off.

NOTE: If the backglass peeling is especially bad, one recommendation is to lay a piece of Glad ClingWrap over the wet Triple Thick in the peeling area and press the pieces down against the glass.

==Playfield Plastics==

===Creating playfield plastics===
Except for a some of the more popular machines, the playfield plastics are irreplaceable. There are web sites that describe a process to make your own replacement. Here are the basic steps to create your own playfield plastics.

*Start with a scan of a good part and/or retouch one.
*Print reversed onto clear adhesive vinyl.
*Cut and shape a piece of 1/8” (.060”) lexan.
*Paint the sticker with a light coat of white primer.
*Adhere sticker onto underside of lexan.

As of May 2011, TowerHobbies carried Parma brand lexan
[http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGW4&P=7 here]

===Flattening warped plastics===
There are many ways to flatten playfield plastics. The safest is to place the plastics between two sheets of playfield glass and let them sit in the sun all day. A write-up describing this process is available here: http://www.team-em.com/FlatteningPlastics/Procedure.htm .

Since this isn't possible for many people and/or many times of the year, the following process has been tested on many plastics.

# Preheat oven and a flat cookie sheet to 200 degrees.
# Put plastic on top of a sheet of paper on the cookie sheet.
# Heat for 8-10 minutes.
# Remove from oven and put flat weight (book) on top while cooling.

==Color Matching==

A low-cost way to make your own color guide is using Microsoft PowerPoint. This will give you a range of colors to compare with what you want to touch-up that you can take with you to find a matching paint color.

# Open or create a new PowerPoint chart
# Add autoshape -> Basic Shapes -> Rectange
# Size the rectangle to be about 1" high and 6" wide
# Right click the rectangle and select "Format Autoshape"
# On the "Color:" pull-down, select "Fill Effects..."
# Click the "Two Colors" radio button and the "Vertical" radio button
# On the "Color 1" and "Color 2" pull-downs, select the two colors bounding the color you're trying to match. For example, for orange select red and yellow and color 1 & 2

This will create a box with a color gradient between the two colors. Find the color along the gradient that matches best.

You can also use this matching color to get the corresponding CMYK value. Save the PowerPoint picture as a bitmap and use the color picker tool in a photo editing program to get the RGB value. Converter tools are available on the Internet that [http://www.javascripter.net/faq/rgb2cmyk.htm convert RGB to CMYK]. Search "RGB to CMYK" to find additional coverter options.

==Restoration Service Providers==

[http://www.highendpins.com/ High-End Pins] - Full machine restoration to the "absolute highest level"

[http://www.pinballpainting.com/ Phoebe's Pinball Painting] - Backglass and playfield touch-up and clearcoating

[http://www.treasure-cove.net/ Treasure Cove] - Restoration service and sale of restored machines.

Pinball Restoration

2011-06-20T04:16:02Z

Williams: Added rotisserie section

==Overview==

Pinball restoration spans from what is required to make the machine playable to complete overhaul that makes the machine better than new.

==Clearcoating the Playfield==

==Using and Building a Playfield Rotisserie==
A playfield rotisserie is a useful tool when restoring a pinball machine. The playfield is removed from the machine and mounted to a rotisserie. The rotisserie allows easier access to all areas of a playfield that may not be possible with the playfield still in the cabinet. A rotisserie also allows the playfield to be rotated for easier access to both the top and bottom.

Rotisseries are commercially available from [[Pinball_Parts_Suppliers | pinball suppliers]] but can also be easily built using readily available parts from a home improvement store. Different designs are available but one of the more popular ones is [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/MUCCofqKYL0 discussed on rec.games.pinball.]

==Sealing the Backglass==

Sealing a backglass refers to treating the backside of the backglass to stabilize any peeling ink. Like most pinball topics, there are diverse opinions on how to seal a backglass as well as when, if ever, it should be done. The goal of this article is to present the facts so you can make an informed decision.

The most common method of sealing a backglass is using Krylon Triple Thick Crystal Clear . The best time to seal a backglass is right before it starts to peel. (Unfortunately, no one knows when that time is.) The condition of a backglass depends on many different factors like where the machine was used and/or stored, the manufacturer, and the year. Inks and glass seem to have varied over time.

The '''con''' to sealing a backglass is that no one knows how well Triple Thick (or other clears) will hold up over the next 30 years. A backglass that is in good shape after the last (approximately) 30 years is very likely to continue to hold up well, especially considering that in your home collection the machine will be stored at a fairly stable temperature and humidity. Besides, if you notice problems starting to develop in the future there will still be time to seal it.

The basic process is outlined below:
* Carefully clean the back of the backglass with a small amount of glass cleaner (e.g. Windex), avoiding any areas of loose ink.
* Cut cardboard masking for the score and credit windows.
* Lay the backglass flat on a level surface and weight the cardboard masking down with weights (pennies work well).
* Spray a light mist coat of Triple Thick. This stabilizes any loose ink pieces. Let dry for 30-60 minutes.
* Spray a coat of Triple Thick. If you plan to do touch-up painting keep this coat fairly thin.
* Let dry.
* Touch up painting with acrylic paint can now be done. Since you're painting over the Triple Thick mistakes can be easily wiped off.

NOTE: If the backglass peeling is especially bad, one recommendation is to lay a piece of Glad ClingWrap over the wet Triple Thick in the peeling area and press the pieces down against the glass.

==Playfield Plastics==

===Creating playfield plastics===
Except for a some of the more popular machines, the playfield plastics are irreplaceable. There are web sites that describe a process to make your own replacement. Here are the basic steps to create your own playfield plastics.

*Start with a scan of a good part and/or retouch one.
*Print reversed onto clear adhesive vinyl.
*Cut and shape a piece of 1/8” (.060”) lexan.
*Paint the sticker with a light coat of white primer.
*Adhere sticker onto underside of lexan.

As of May 2011, TowerHobbies carried Parma brand lexan
[http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGW4&P=7 here]

===Flattening warped plastics===
There are many ways to flatten playfield plastics. The safest is to place the plastics between two sheets of playfield glass and let them sit in the sun all day. A write-up describing this process is available here: http://www.team-em.com/FlatteningPlastics/Procedure.htm .

Since this isn't possible for many people and/or many times of the year, the following process has been tested on many plastics.

# Preheat oven and a flat cookie sheet to 200 degrees.
# Put plastic on top of a sheet of paper on the cookie sheet.
# Heat for 8-10 minutes.
# Remove from oven and put flat weight (book) on top while cooling.

==Color Matching==

A low-cost way to make your own color guide is using Microsoft PowerPoint. This will give you a range of colors to compare with what you want to touch-up that you can take with you to find a matching paint color.

# Open or create a new PowerPoint chart
# Add autoshape -> Basic Shapes -> Rectange
# Size the rectangle to be about 1" high and 6" wide
# Right click the rectangle and select "Format Autoshape"
# On the "Color:" pull-down, select "Fill Effects..."
# Click the "Two Colors" radio button and the "Vertical" radio button
# On the "Color 1" and "Color 2" pull-downs, select the two colors bounding the color you're trying to match. For example, for orange select red and yellow and color 1 & 2

This will create a box with a color gradient between the two colors. Find the color along the gradient that matches best.

You can also use this matching color to get the corresponding CMYK value. Save the PowerPoint picture as a bitmap and use the color picker tool in a photo editing program to get the RGB value. Converter tools are available on the Internet that [http://www.javascripter.net/faq/rgb2cmyk.htm convert RGB to CMYK]. Search "RGB to CMYK" to find additional coverter options.

==Restoration Service Providers==

[http://www.highendpins.com/ High-End Pins] - Full machine restoration to the "absolute highest level"

[http://www.pinballpainting.com/ Phoebe's Pinball Painting] - Backglass and playfield touch-up and clearcoating

[http://www.treasure-cove.net/ Treasure Cove] - Restoration service and sale of restored machines.

The Who's Tommy

2011-06-20T02:36:33Z

Williams: Initial version

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Data East|| 1994 || 28 || 3,500
|}

[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2579 The Who's Tommy entry at ipdb.org]

[http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/2579/TOMMY.HTM The Who's Tommy playing tips and rule sheet]

[http://tiltwarning.com/blog/2011/05/pinburgh-quarterfinal-4-on-tommy-can-you-hear-me/ The Who's Tommy gameplay footage from PAPA]

= Game-Specific Issues =
No game specific issues yet.

Data East/Sega

2011-06-20T02:31:17Z

Williams: /* Games */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This is located in the playfield cabinet.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays. DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[The_Who's_Tommy |The Who's Tommy (1/94)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display glass is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams and can be used as a drop in replacement. However, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-20T02:19:56Z

Williams: /* 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This is located in the playfield cabinet.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays. DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display glass is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams and can be used as a drop in replacement. However, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T21:44:08Z

Williams: /* Introduction */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This is located in the playfield cabinet.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays. DMD controller boards have a separate CPU and communicate to the main CPU via a ribbon cable.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T21:39:31Z

Williams: /* Introduction */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of [[Williams_System_9_-_11| Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.]]

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This is located in the playfield cabinet.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T21:38:16Z

Williams: /* Sound Board */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This is located in the playfield cabinet.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00 - This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02 - This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T21:37:41Z

Williams: /* Display Board */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This is located in the playfield cabinet.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00 - Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00 - Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00 - Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00
This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02
This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T21:37:01Z

Williams: /* Introduction */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
There can also be two additional boards.
*Games with solid state flippers will have a flipper control board name the TY-FFASI board. This is located in the playfield cabinet.
*Display controller boards are mounted behind the displays.
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00
Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00
Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00
Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00
This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02
This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T21:27:06Z

Williams: /* Introduction */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
[[Data_East/Sega/Stern_Pinball | Data East/Sega pinball]] used a board set with minor differences from 1987 to 1995. This boardset, like most hardware of this generation, is very derivative of Bally/Williams System 11 hardware.

[[File:De boardset.jpg‎|400px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set, this from a Star Wars]]
The following boards are typical of what you will find in a Data East backbox.
*RED - Power Supply
*BLUE - CPU
*YELLOW - Playfield Power Board
*GREEN - Sound Board
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00
Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00
Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00
Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00
This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02
This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

File:De boardset.jpg

2011-06-19T21:17:32Z

Williams: DE boardset

DE boardset

Laser War

2011-06-19T15:10:46Z

Williams:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Data East|| 1987 || 01 || Unknown
|}

[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1415 Laser War entry at ipdb.org]

= Game-Specific Issues =
No game specific issues yet.

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T05:01:42Z

Williams: /* Score Display Issues */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
Put system info here

[[File:De dmd boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set]]
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00
Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00
Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00
Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00
This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02
This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Lethal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T05:01:10Z

Williams: /* Games */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
Put system info here

[[File:De dmd boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set]]
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lethal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00
Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00
Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00
Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00
This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02
This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Leathal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Leathal Weapon 3

2011-06-19T05:00:09Z

Williams: moved Leathal Weapon 3 to Lethal Weapon 3: Spelling error

#REDIRECT [[Lethal Weapon 3]]

Lethal Weapon 3

2011-06-19T05:00:09Z

Williams: moved Leathal Weapon 3 to Lethal Weapon 3: Spelling error

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Data East|| 1992 || 26 || Unknown
|}

[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1433 Lethal Weapon 3 entry at ipdb.org]

[http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/1433/lw3ryan.htm Lethal Weapon 3 Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]

= Game-Specific Issues =
The right flipper button spring can bend out and touch the legs of the shooter coil, causing all manner of strange behavior.

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T04:59:02Z

Williams: /* Score Display Issues */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
Put system info here

[[File:De dmd boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set]]
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Leathal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00
Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00
Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00
Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00
This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02
This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from [[Leathal_Weapon_3 | Lethal Weapon 3]] until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T04:53:05Z

Williams: /* Data East Diagnostics Systems */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
Put system info here

[[File:De dmd boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set]]
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Leathal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00
Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00
Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00
Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00
This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02
This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on [[Laser_War | Laser War]] through [[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein.]] The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from Lethal Weapon 3 until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Mary Shellys Frankenstein

2011-06-19T04:49:49Z

Williams: Initial version

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Data East|| 1995 || 36 || 3,000 (approximate)
|}

[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=947 Mary Shelly's Frankenstein entry at ipdb.org]

[http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/947/frankens.htm Mary Shelly's Frankenstein Playing Tips and Rule Sheet]

= Game-Specific Issues =
No game specific issues yet.

Laser War

2011-06-19T04:45:29Z

Williams: Initial version

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Manufacturer !! Year !! Model !! Produced
|-
|Data East|| 1987 || 01 || 10,400
|}

[http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1415 Laser War entry at ipdb.org]

= Game-Specific Issues =
No game specific issues yet.

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T04:40:44Z

Williams: /* Games */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
Put system info here

[[File:De dmd boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set]]
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|[[Laser_War |Laser War (3/87)]]
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Leathal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|[[Mary_Shellys_Frankenstein | Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)]]
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00
Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00
Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00
Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00
This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02
This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on Laser War through Mary Shelly's Frankenstein. The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from Lethal Weapon 3 until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]

Data East/Sega

2011-06-19T00:11:26Z

Williams: /* Data East Diagnositics Systems */

{{WIP}}
==Introduction==
Put system info here

[[File:De dmd boardset.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Data East Standard DMD Board Set]]
 

==Games==

For an extensive list of games produced by Data East and Sega, see the [[List of Data East Games]].

The following table lists regular production games based on their circuit board (PCB) and system generations.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8" |Game List and Board Version
|-
!Game (Manufacture Date)
!CPU
!Power Supply
!PPB
!Display
!Sound
!Flipper
!Notes
|-
|Laser War (3/87)
|520-5003-01 or 520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Displays: Two 7 digit A/N, two 7 digit numeric, one 4 digit numeric
|-
|Secret Service (2/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5015-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|Four 7 digit A/N displays
|-
|Torpedo Alley (8/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Time Machine (11/88)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|align="center"|No PCB 3 lug coil and EOS switch
|
|-
|Playboy 35th Anniversary (5/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|ABC Monday Night Football (9/89)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Robocop (01/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Phantom of the Opera (4/90)
|520-5003-02
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|Back to the Future (6/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-00
|
|
|
|
|-
|The Simpsons (10/90)
|520-5003-03
|520-5000-00
|520-5021-02
|2x 16 digit A/N 520-5030-00
|520-5002-03-12
|520-5033-00
|
|-
|Checkpoint (2/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|First pinball machine with a DMD display
|-
|Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (6/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman (8/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Star Trek (9/91)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|Hook (5/92)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-00
|520-5021-00
|128x16 DMD 520-5042-00
|
|
|
|-
|[[Leathal_Weapon_3|Lethal Weapon 3 (8/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|First DE usage of 128x32 display
|-
|[[Star_Wars|Star Wars (12/92)]]
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Rocky & Bullwinkle (2/93)
|520-5003-03
|520-5047-01
|520-5021-00
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Jurassic Park (6/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|520-5021-05
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|520-5050-02
|520-5033-02
|Motor Control board mounted under playfield
|-
|Last Action Hero (10/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Tales from the Crypt (12/93)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|The Who's Tommy (1/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|WWF Royal Rumble (5/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Guns N' Roses (7/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-02
|
|128x32 DMD 520-5052-00
|
|
|
|-
|Maverick (10/94)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|First usage of 'super' 192x64 display
|-
|Mary Shelly's Frankenstein (1/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Baywatch (2/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|Batman Forever (7/95)
|520-5003-03*
|520-5047-03
|
|192x64 DMD 520-5075-00
|
|
|
|-
|}

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Extra pins at CN3 for printer. See the [[Data_East/Sega#CPU|CPU section]] for more information.

==Technical Info==
Data East used several different board generations. It is important to be able to identify the different versions when performing diagnosis and testing.

===CPU===

*520-5003-01

*520-5003-02

*520-5003-03

===Power Supply===

*520-5000-00

*520-5047-00

*520-5047-01

*520-5047-02

*520-5047-03

===Display Board===

*520-500x-00 Master Display
:Slave Boards
::520-5004-00
::520-5005-00
::520-5006-00
::520-5007-00

*520-5014-01

*520-5030-00

*520-5042-00
Used for the 128x16 line dot matrix displays on games Checkpoint through Hook.
*520-5052-00
Used for the "standard" sized 128x32 line dot matrix displays on games Lethal Weapon 3 through Guns N' Roses.
*520-5075-00
Used on the large 192x64 dot matrix displays on games Maverick through Batman Forever.

===Sound Board===

*520-5002-0x series
**520-5002-00
**520-5002-02
**520-5002-03

*520-5050-0x series
**520-5050-01
**520-5050-02
**520-5050-00
**520-5050-03

*520-5077-00
This board is similar to the 520-5050-0x series. It was redesigned to allow up to four 27040 EPROMs for voices and sound effects. It has a different pre-amplifier design than the 5050 series, but uses the same MB3730A power amplifiers.
*520-5126-02
This board is very similar to the 520-5077-00 design. The power amplifier section was redesigned. It is reported that it is interchangeable with the 520-5077-00.

===Playfield Power Board===

*50v coil board

*520-5015-00

*520-5021-00

*520-5021-05

===Flipper Board===

*520-5033-0x series
**520-5033-00
**520-5033-03

*520-5070-00

*520-5076-00

*520-5080-00

=== Data East Diagnostics Systems ===
Solid state pinball machines typically have a built in system for audits and adjustments. Data East/Sega used two types of auditing systems. The first system was Ease-A-Just and was used on Laser War through Mary Shelly's Frankenstein. The Portals system was first used in Baywatch and was used for all machines after.

==== Ease-A-Just ====
[[File:De_easeadjust.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|The Ease-A-Just control panel]]
The East-A-Just system is very similar to the menu system in Bally/Williams System 11 machines. The control panel is located in the cabinet just inside the coin door. The forward/reverse (green) button is an up/down positional switch and the step (black) button is a momentary switch. To enter the East-A-Just system press the step button. If the green button is in the down position the game will enter the diagnostics menu. If the green button is in the up position the game will enter the audits and adjustments menu. Diagnostics are game dependent so check your game manual for specifics. All games do have a switch test with the diagnostics section that can be used to [[Data_East/Sega#Switch_Issues | diagnose switch problems.]] To exit the Ease-A-Just system hold down the Step button. This will rapidly send you to the last setting and will put the game in attract mode.
 
'''Setting Free Play'''
Data East machines hide many adjustments under a 'Expand Adjustments' section, including the free play adjustment. To set free play enter the adjustments section of Ease-A-Just by pressing the black button while the green button is in the up position. This will put you in 'Audit' mode. Now put the green button in the down position (reverse) and press the black button (step). You are now in the adjustments section. The last adjustment is typically 'Expand Adjustments'. Change this adjustment to 'Yes' to see many more adjustments, including free play. Adjustment values are changed by pressing the game start button.
 

==== Portals ====
To be completed. A brief explaination of the Portals system is in each game manual.

==Problems and Fixes==

===Fuse Clips===
Data East used fuse clips on circuit boards as opposed to fuse holders. These clips are prone to cracking and causing intermittent connections. These clips cannot be repaired and should be replaced when cracked. The clips do have a correct orientation, when installing them make sure the "tabs" on the portion that grasps the fuse is oriented outwards.

Fuse clips are located on the Power supply, Playfield Power Board, and Solid State Flipper Board.

===Power Driver Issues===
Quickly test the TIP102/TIP122 transistors (Q8-Q13, Q23-Q30, Q39-Q46, Q72-Q79) on the MPU:
* Turn the game OFF
* Set your DMM to Ohms/Continuity buzz
* Attach the black lead to one of the metal grounding straps (crocodile clips are helpful here), there should be one in the backbox you can use
* Touch the red lead to the metal tabs of the TIP122/TIP102's
* Any that read 0 Ohms (ie are shorted) are bad and will need replacing.

You may also need to replace the predriver transistor (2n4401) that the bad transistor is connected to. It is also wise to check the wiring and the coil before powering back on, otherwise you may blow the transistor you just replaced.

See [[How to test a coil]]

===PPB Board Issues===
Common issues include:

* Burnt GI connector
* Dead TIP36C

===MPU Issues===
'''Data East CPU Board LED Flash Sequence'''

Much like the Williams System 11 CPU, the Data East CPU performs a basic diagnostics procedure and produces a series of LED flashes to indicate potential boot issues. The CPU automatically tests the PIAs, RAM and EPROMs at each boot.

With all tests passed, the LEDs illuminate in the following sequence at power-on:
* The PIA and +5V LEDs illuminate immediately
* Approximately 1/2-second later the PIA led is turned off and the Blanking LED illuminates
* +5V and Blanking LEDs are illuminated until the game is turned off.
* If a failure is detected on major board components, the PIA LED will display a flash code:

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="3" |PIA LED Flash Sequence
|-
!PIA LED
!Suspect Component
!Location
|-
|Stays On || One of the 6821 PIAs || various
|-
|Flashes 1 Time || 6064 RAM || D5
|-
|Flashes 2 Times || EPROM || B5
|-
|Flashes 3 Times || EPROM || C5
|}

===Power Supply Issues===
====Low +5v====
If you have a low +5v, you'll experience game resets, especially when pressing the flippers during multiball. A 'shotgun' repair would be to replace the bridge rectifier (DB1, CM3501), C2 (100uf 25v), C1 (1000uf 25v) and TR5 (2N6057) on the power supply board.

====PS 520-5047-01 - High Voltage Missing at the DMD display====
=====No +68v is found at the DMD display=====
'''Warning''' Be extremely careful not to touch anything when working on live High Voltage (HV) circuits.

Assuming it's not the transfomer, connectors or fuses then you should be able to measure a +DC High Voltage (HV) at the banded side of D5 with respect to GND.

If no voltage there, suspect fuses and then test D5 on the diode setting and replace D5 with a 1n4004 diode. Also test, and replace D7 with a 1n4004 diode at the same time for good measure as it's a penny part and probably stressed. Same procedure although it rectifies the a -DC HV.

'''Measurements are with respect to ground.'''
You should now have a HV +DC reading at the banded side of D5. Test for +68v output.
You should also have a HV -DC reading at the non-banded side of D7. Test for -100v and -98v DC output.

Do not be concerned if measured voltages are not exact without a DMD connected, they will read lower under load. It can also be that the DMD display itself is faulty and taking down the PSU.

Capacitors C10 / C11 are important, if you can't test then replace them. Especially if it looks to bulge at ends, old capacitors dry out and then fail. C10 and C11 are both 100uF @ 200v. You should be able to use 150uF at a higher voltage for these, so 150uF @250v is fine.
:'''''Observe the polarity of the capacitors you remove and mark with a Sharpie if not already indicated on PCB mask. This is very important for Electrolytic capacitors which have a polarity!'''''
D5 / C10 are for the +68v HV DC to the DMD Display.
D7 / C11 are for the -98v and -110v HV DC to the DMD Display.

: '''The circuit for +68 voltage is comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''
{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |+68v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE340&dagger; || NPN transistor || TR3 || MJE15030
|-
|MPSA92 || PNP transistor ||TR1 || available
|-
|1n4760b ||68v zener diode ||D9 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D6 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D5 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R8 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R11 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R12 ||available
|-
|500 ohm|| resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R15 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C10 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15030 is a heavy duty version of the MJE340 (TR3)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N4760 68v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR1 then TR3 test the DMD.

=====No -100v is found at the DMD display=====
Follow a similar procedure to the one above. The plus and minus HV circuits are nearly 'mirror images'.

A missing -98v DC output only while reading -100v points to D11 (1n4742 12v zener diode) or R14 (4K @ 10W ceramic resistor) as faulty. Test resistor value R14 and replace if open or out of spec. Then replace D11 '''observing banded side for polarity'''.

'''The Circuit for -100 and -93 HV voltages are comprised of components under CN5 / CN6 of the Power Board (PSU).'''

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-100v / -93v circuit
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|MJE350&dagger; || PNP transistor || TR4 || MJE15031
|-
|MPSA42 || PNP transistor ||TR2 || available
|-
|1n5379b ||110v zener diode ||D10 ||available
|-
|1n5228 ||3.9v zener diode ||D8 ||available
|-
|1n4004 ||diode 400v @ 1A ||D7 ||available
|-
|47K || resistor 1 Watt||R9 ||available
|-
|330K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt ||R10 ||available
|-
|1.5K || resistor 0.5 (1/2) Watt||R13 ||available
|-
|100uF @200v||Capacitor ||C11 ||e.g. 150uF @250v
|}

: &dagger; The MJE15031 is a heavy duty version of the MJE350 (TR4)

Check values of the above resistors. Any out of spec. (or showing open) will need to be replaced first. Test DMD again.
Then replace the 1N5379B 110v and 1N5228 3.9v zener diodes and test DMD again.
Then work through the transistors, replacing TR2 then TR4, test the DMD.
Get the -100v output working first, then go after the -93v circuit.

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="4" |-93v circuit only
|-
!Part
!Description
!Location
!Eqivalent
|-
|1n4742||12v zener diode ||D11 ||available
|-
|4K || resistor 10 Watt Ceramic||R14 ||available
|}

===Switch Issues===
Data East machines have switch testing built into its diagnostics. If a switch has not been activated in a while (typically 50 games) the machine assumes the switch is bad and displays a message when powered on. Sometimes this message can appear because a working switch hasn't been activated during play. You can manually activate the switch to clear this message.

Data East uses a switch matrix to control all switches except the test button switches and the special solenoid switches. A general discussion of the switch matrix is [[General#The_Switch_Matrix | discussed elsewhere in the pinwiki.]]

Switches do go bad from wear and this is a typical point of failure. Here is a checklist to determine what is causing a switch failure.
# Look to see if many switches are out, and if so see if they are all in the same row or column of the switch matrix. Your game manual will have a copy of the switch matrix specific to your machine. If several switches are inactive check for a broken wire somewhere along the path. If many switches in the same row or column are bad their is a high likelihood your issue is on the CPU board and not with the switches.
# Make sure your switch is not shorted against itself. Check to make sure that the leads to not touch or have not been bent together and that the diode is not shorted against the common lead.
# For microswitches, make sure the switch lever still works. You should hear a click when the level is moved and the switch is activated. You can sometimes bend the switch lever to make the switch require less travel to activate a closure. Note that these switches can still be bad when the click is audible. The best thing to do is put your machine in [[Data_East/Sega#Data_East_Diagnostics_Systems | switch test mode]] and manually activate the switch. If it does not activate every time replace the switch and diode.
# For leaf switches, make sure the two contacts are adjusted properly. You can clean the contacts with a business card by putting the card between the contacts, closing the switch, and quickly removing the card.
# You can use a multimeter instead of the machine's built in switch test to make sure the switch works correctly. Put your DMM on the continuity setting, put one lead on the common lug (it should have the banded end of the diode) and the other lead on one of the other lugs. The continuity setting should change when the switch is activated. Move the DMM lead not on the common lug to the remaining lug. The continuity should change and work in the opposite manner.
# Check the diodes for correct orientation and that they are connected correctly. Typically the banded end of the diode goes toward the lug farthest from the common lug. Check your game's manual to be sure. Diodes do go bad but this is unusual. 1N4001 diodes can be replaced with 1N4004 diodes.

===Score Display Issues===
Early Data East pinball machines used alpha-numeric score displays similar to those in Bally/Williams Machines. Data East was the first pinball manufacturer to use a dot matrix display (DMD) in a pinball machine, and had three different generations of the display. Starting with Checkpoint and running through Hook, Data East used a 128x16 score display. Williams first used the common 128x32 display in Terminator 2, and Data East soon switched to this display size for the majority of their machines, (from Lethal Weapon 3 until Guns N' Roses). Data East then switched to the larger 128x64 display. This display was used in only four Data East / Sega games including: Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, and Batman Forever.

'''Outgassing Displays'''
DMDs have a lifespan and will eventually fail. It is important to replace an outgassing display because they will strain your power supply, and eventually damage that as well. Signs of outgassing displays are that areas of the display need to 'warm up' before becoming fully bright or that the display will remain completely blank for a few seconds and then appear normal.

*A side note to the display issues taking some time to light. There are cases of import machines having a circuit to delay the DMD appearing after the machine was turned on before diplaying. This was done by some operators so that serial number and location information was not shown when the machine powered on. This circuit will not damage anything but is not standard. More information about this can be found in a [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.games.pinball/Q7_FezXgJ7Y/discussion rec.games.pinball discussion.]

==== Alphanumeric Issues ====
To be completed. Please contribute.

==== Dot Matrix Issues ====
Although Data East board designs share many similarities between Bally/Williams, the score display CPU is implemented very differently. Data East has a separate board and CPU for controlling the dot matrix display (DMD). This board is mounted behind the DMD on the score panel. The main CPU and this daughterboard communicate through a ribbon cable. Because of this, it is important that your CPU and display roms are the same version, or are in sync with each other. Running different ROM versions can cause some strange display issues. Ribbon cables are known to have faults, so reseating or swapping the cable may fix some issues. 

===== 128x16 (Small DMD) issues =====
To be completed. Please contribute.

===== 128x32 (Regular DMD) Issues =====
The 128x32 DMD was used in the majority of Data East machines, and was the only size used by Bally/Williams. The display is the exact same version for both Data East and Bally/Williams, and can be used as a drop in replacement. Although, you will still need the DMD controller board used by Data East machines. 

[[File:de-display-romupgrade.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Before and after shots of the display board after upgrading from the stock board with two 2MB ROMs. Notice the removal of the 0 ohm resistor(jumper) at R11]] 

Some games such as Lethal Weapon 3 and Star Wars sometimes used two 27020 EPROMs at locations U12 and U14. You can use one EPROM instead if upgrading to newer code. If one EPROM is used R11 should be open (nothing installed). This part can simply be cut off the board. If two EPROMs are used, R11 should be jumpered with a zero ohm resistor or jumper wire. Why Data East called this a resistor (R11) vice a jumper, is anyone's guess. This is discussed in a [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb38b.pdf service bulletin.] 

It is worth mentioning that if two 2MB EPROMs are used, and the R11 zero ohm jumper is not installed, the DMD will remain blank.
 

High voltage for the DMD is located on the PSU board. 

Connection CN2 on the DMD controller board can sometimes be problematic. This is a three pin connector, and only two of the header pins are used for the +5vdc and ground. It is always a good practice to upgrade the connector pins in this housing to Trifurcon connectors. Using Trifurcon connector pins will help ensure that a more solid connection is made at CN2. Unfortunately, the existing connector housing is not reusable, and will have to be replaced when the connector pins are upgraded.
 

===== 128x64 (Large DMD) Issues =====
One of the most common issues with this display is that it will periodically go blank or reset the CPU. These issues are typically due to the logic power needed to drive the DMD controller board chips dropping below the required +5vdc. As Stern mentions in their service bulletin, the controller board runs at +5vdc, and "'likes' its 5 volts or darn near close". To overcome the issue, Stern offers an optional wiring harness to increase the reliability of the +5vdc logic power by pulling the +5vdc from an otherwise unpopulated connector on the power supply. A detailed discussion of the kit can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf Stern service bulletin 106.]
 

===Flipper Issues===
Data East was the first company to use solid state flippers. Starting with Playboy 35 Anniversay, Data East flippers began using a single wound coil instead of the high/low windings found in earlier games and Bally/Williams games. This design is known as the Deger design and is found in most of the Data East games. [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb62.pdf Service Bulletin #62] is a listing of flipper coil parts for Data East games and shows the evolution.

When a Data East flipper is energized, 50 volts is sent to the coil for the initial flip. The FFASI board the drops the voltage to 9 volts so that the flipper may be held up for a long period of time without burning the coil. This voltage drop occurs after 40 milliseconds, is CPU controlled, and cannot be adjusted. This differs from the Bally/Williams design where the flipper hold is determined by the End-Of-Stroke (EOS) switch and contributes to what many say is a different feel between Data East and Bally/Williams flippers.

Data East eventually did add an EOS switch to its flipper design beginning with Jurassic Park. Again this differs from Bally/Williams in that the switch is normally closed. This was done because certain game features fired the ball quickly back to the flippers. If the ball hit the flippers and moved them 1/16 of a inch the EOS switch would open and 50 volts would again be delivered to the flipper. This is discussed along with the general theory of Data East flipper operation in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb49.pdf service bulletin #49.] With this design if the hold voltage is broken and the EOS is badly adjusted, you may experience 'machine gun flippers'.

These flippers are controlled by the flipper board (TY-FFASI board) mounted in the cabinet. The board is prone to a few failures, but it's a fairly simple circuit so fixing it is normally quite easy. You should see a red LED flash when the flipper buttons are pressed.

To test the flipper board:

* Remove the board from the cabinet (it's much easier to work on)
* [[Beginner%27s_Notes#Fuses | Check all the fuses]] on the board, 4 in total (2 power, 2 hold). Also check the [[#Fuse_Clips| fuse clips.]]
* Check all transistors using a DMM
* Check tracks for continuity and corrosion
* Replace board back into cabinet and power on game
* Enter Diagnostics (so power is sent to the flippers)
* Check voltage at coil lugs (Should be ~50v DMM set to DC, black lead on GND, red led on banded side)
* Press flipper button and check hold voltage (should be 8v)
* Check power/hold voltage on flipper board (black lead on GND, DMM set to DC, red probe on CN2-6&7 8v hold, CN2-8&9 power)

If you have no power voltage on CN2-8 and CN2-9, check the PPB board J7-1 and J7-5.

If you have no hold voltage on CN2-6 of the flipper board, check the Power Supply board CN1-10 and CN1-11. If you have no hold voltage on the coil lugs, check the hold fuses on the TY-FFASI board.

* The newer 520-5080-00 (EOS) flipper board can be modified to work in games requiring the 520-5033-00 (non-EOS) flipper board. Steps to do this can be found in [http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb103.pdf Service Bulletin #103.]

==== Flipper Repair and Rebuilding ====
Coming soon...

==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==

Please see the [[Data_East/Sega#Games | game specific pages]] for game specific problems.

==Repair Logs==
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.

[http://home.scarlet.be/~fb054529/dataeast/edataeast.htm CPU Board Repair]