ALI/Fascination Repair

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For history of Allied Leisure see Allied Leisure.


1 Introduction

Allied Leisure (ALI) is best known for making machines with "short" playfields; the two "shaker ball" EM machines, and several "cocktail" pinball machines in the late 1970s, which they produced under the names "Allied Leisure Industries" and "Fascination International" with identical hardware (Gameplan was also making cocktail pinball machines in the late 1970s with completely different hardware based on Bally's designs). They also produced several "traditional form factor" solid-state pinball machines in the mid-1970s.

In September 1975, Allied Leisure released one of the first ever solid state pinball machines to be sold commercially named "Rock On". There is some debate about whether or not Micro Games released "Spirit of '76" first, as the two manufacturers released their titles right around the same time. Micro's specific release date does not appear to have been recorded.

Some history of Allied Leisure can be found here: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, and Part 4. Some additional background information on Allied Leisure and their arcade games can be found here.

2 Games

2.1 Electromechanical

  • Seahunt
  • Spooksville

2.2 Solid State

  • Rock On
  • Dyn O' Mite (also written as Dyno-Mite, Dyno Mite, or Dynomite)
  • T.N.T.
  • Thunderbolt
  • Boogie
  • Roy Clark Super Picker
  • Getaway
  • Hoe Down

2.3 Cocktail

  • Take Five
  • Flame of Athens
  • Hearts Spades
  • Disco '79
  • Star Shooter
  • Circa 1933 (Fascination Int.)
  • Eros II (Fascination Int.)
  • Eros One (Fascination Int.)
  • Roy Clark The Entertainer (Fascination Int.)


3 Documentation

3.1 Safety

3.1.1 Generation 1

If any work or adjustments need to be performed in the power supply section of the cabinet, the game should be unplugged for at least two hours in order to allow the large high-voltage capacitors to discharge to safe levels. Otherwise, getting hit with significant voltage levels, or shorting out and damaging components is a real possibility. To help discharge some of the capacitors more quickly, press the coin switches a few times to trigger the coin relays until the power drains out.

Because this was early days for solid state games, they weren't as refined as games in later years, and as a result, there are a lot of exposed contact points in the power section and also very little grounding.

3.2 Manuals & Schematics

Manuals, schematics, and theory of operation guides can be obtained from flippers.com. PBResource.com may also have the paperwork for certain games.

3.3 Parts Catalog

3.4 Service Bulletins

3.4.1 Generation 1

3.5 General Information

Some information on Generation 2 games can be found on flippers.com

3.6 PCB Parts List

Partial parts lists for all the boards found in a Generation 1 game (Dynomite):

3.7 Instruction Cards

Instruction cards are available here: [1], under the "Various" section.

3.8 Other

3.9 Errors

3.9.1 Incorrect Fuse Labels

On Dynomite, there is a discrepancy on the upper two fuses in the left most bank of fuses. 5 Amp is printed on the label, however, the schematics call for an 8 Amp fuse. A 5 Amp slow-blow fuse should be used for 5VDC, and 2.5 Amp fuse should be used for the 24VDC.

3.9.2 Incorrect Relay & Timing Circuit Labels

In Dyno-mite, the row of relays on the bottom panel correctly correspond to their labels. However, the "Timing Circuits" that correspond the Relays for targets A through D are mislabeled.

The left-most terminal strip in the timing circuits section should be designated "D", followed by "C", "B", and "A" all the way on the right.

The row of relays. Note that the bracket that normally secures the relays has been removed.
The row of terminal strips in the timing circuits section. Note that the labels are incorrect. The left-most label should instead be "Target D" and descend alphabetically to "Target A" on the right.


To check which terminal strip is associated with each relay:

  1. Remove relays for targets A through D from their sockets
  2. On one of the the terminal strips in the "Timing Circuits" section, touch one of the multimeter leads on the bottom terminal (closest to the bank of relays).
  3. Use the multimeter's other lead to probe pin 14 of each relay socket until the multimeter buzzes. When it buzzes, label the terminal strip appropriately to match the relay's label.


4 Technical Info

4.1 Board Set

4.1.1 Generation 1

The system with multiple circuit boards has been designated as "generation 1". It does not have a central MPU, but instead, several discrete circuit boards that perform various game functions. It is similar to the way in which the functions of an EM game are separated.

This system was used in Rock On, Dyn 'O Mite, T.N.T., Thunderbolt, and Boogie. All the games used the same cabinet and the same playfield layout, but not all had the same playfield artwork or backglass.

The wiring and components for the power section at the bottom of the cabinet varied somewhat between games.

Sounds were provided by a set of chimes.

There are both coin-operated and non-commercial versions of these games. The non-commercial versions were limited to a small handful and had a blank coin door and were missing the credit board, line-em-up display, and the credit display.


4.1.1.1 Pinball Lamp Drivers (264-1-53)

There are two lamp driver boards. One of these boards is located in the backbox, and another in the cabinet.

  • Lamp Driver Board (Front)

  • Lamp Driver Board (Back)


4.1.1.2 Pinball Mode Interface / Mode Sequencer Interface (264-1-54)

This board is located in the backbox.

  • Mode Sequencer Interface Board (Front)

  • Mode Sequencer Interface Board (Back)


4.1.1.3 Pinball Player Up Logic (264-1-62)

This board is located in the backbox.

This board keeps track of the number of players the game can support, the number of players in play, which player is up, and which ball is in play. Also, when to advance players/balls, how to handle an extra ball, and what do to during a tilt.

One interesting thing about this board is that it seems to have been designed to accommodate up to 6 players, rather than just the usual 2 or 4.


  • Player Up Logic Board (Front)

  • Player Up Logic Board (Back)

  • A variation of the Player Up Logic board. Note that the C6 and C13 components are unpopulated. On the schematics for this board dated 2/25/75, both C6 and C13 appear. It's unknown if there are other versions of the schematics with these components missing or how the presence or lack of the components may affect game operation.

  • A variation of the Player Up Logic board. Note that the C6 and C13 components are populated.

  • Location of C6 on the schematics.

  • Location of C13 on the schematics.


4.1.1.4 Bonus Drain / Bonus Board (264-1-59)

This board is located in the backbox.

  • Bonus Board (Front)

  • Bonus Board (Back). Note the addition of the 0.1uF 12v ceramic capacitor.


4.1.1.5 Pinball Credit Circuit / Credit Board (264-1-56)

This board is located in the backbox.

4.1.1.5.1 Revisions
4.1.1.5.1.1 Revision A

Revision A is marked with the number "PCB 264-9-10" and is a green-colored PCB. On revision B, this PCB number is followed by the letter "B". Revision A has a number of factory trace cuts and jumpers. These cuts and jumpers were fixed in revision B of this board with modifications to the traces.

Revision A is confirmed to have appeared in Dyno-Mite.

  • Credit Board Revision A (Front)

  • Credit Board Revision A (Back)

  • Credit Board Revision A Board Numbers

  • Credit Board Revision A Board Modification

  • Credit Board Revision A Board Modification

  • Credit Board Revision A Board Modification

  • Credit Board Revision A Board Modification

  • Credit Board Revision A Board Modification


4.1.1.5.1.2 Revision B

Revision B is marked with the number "PCB 264-9-10 B" and is a tan-colored PCB. Revision B includes trace changes that were late modifications to the revision A board, which were originally several trace cuts and additional jumpers.

  • Credit Board Revision B (Front)

  • Credit Board Revision B (Back)

  • Credit Board Revision B Board Numbers


4.1.1.5.2 Jumper Settings

This board has jumpers for two settings--one coin per credit or two coins per credit.

Credit board coin selection jumpers


This board has jumpers to specify the number of credits given when the number of inserted coins is satisfied. The left-most jumpers are "1" and the right-most jumpers are "9". Coin 1 is the left slot, and Coin 2 is the right slot. There is a note in the Dyno-mite manual that says the game can only use the "coin 1" jumper setting.

Credit board credit selection jumpers


Examples:

  • 25¢ per play - set "one coin per credit" and "1" for credits.
  • 50¢ per play - set "two coins per credit" and "1" for credits.
  • 50¢ for 3 plays - set "two coins per credit" and "3" for credits (note that there will be no "25¢ per play" option available in concert with these settings).

4.1.1.6 Score Display Logic / Standard Digital Scoring Unit (264-1-60)

Depending upon if the game is a 2-player or 4-player game, either 2 or 4 of these boards are located in the backbox.

  • Score Display Logic Board (Front)

  • Score Display Logic Board (Back)

  • Score Display Logic Board (with Display Glass installed)


By using the replay jumpers, there are three scores that can be set for awarding an extra ball or replay.

4.1.1.7 Score Display (5-digit) (264-1-75)

The score displays are inserted into the Score Display Logic boards (264-1-60).

  • Score Display (Front)

  • Score Display (Back)


4.1.1.8 Line 'Em Up Logic (264-1-57)

This board is located in the backbox.

  • Line 'Em Up Logic Board (Front)

  • Line 'Em Up Logic Board (Back)

  • Line 'Em Up Logic Board (with display installed)


4.1.1.9 Line 'Em Up Display (264-1-64)

The Line 'Em Up Display is inserted into the Line 'Em Up Logic board (264-1-57).

  • Line 'Em Up Display (Front)

  • Line 'Em Up Display (Back)


4.1.1.10 Credit Display (264-1-55)

This board is located in the backbox. Note that although it appears that the glass nipple is broken off, that is simply the way it was formed and the glass will still light up normally.

  • Credit Display (Front)

  • Credit Display (Back)


4.1.1.11 Pinball Playfield Scoring Logic (264-1-61)

This board is located in the cabinet.

  • Playfield Scoring Logic Board (Front)

  • Playfield Scoring Logic Board (Back)


4.1.1.12 Relay Drivers Board (264-1-52)

This board is located in the cabinet.

  • Relay Drivers Board (Front)

  • Relay Drivers Board (Back)


4.1.1.13 Chime Solenoid Circuit (264-1-189)

Part name & number found within a technican's printed notes. Unclear which game(s) it appears in. Note: Not present in Rock On, Dyn 'O Mite, or T.N.T. Possibly present in Thunderbolt, but this is unconfirmed.

4.1.2 Generation 2

4.1.2.1 MPU

Generation 2 games can use two different MPU revisions: PCB50210125E and PCB50210125H. They appear to be interchangeable. However, the custom 6530 chips on the PCB50210125E appear to lack input protection, and are open to being damaged from shorted input lines. The custom 6530 chips are very rare and difficult to obtain. however, flippers.com has been in the process of developing a replacement.

4.2 Connectors & Pin Designations

4.2.1 Generation 1

4.2.1.1 50-pin (25x25) Connectors

The 50-pin connectors are used on all of the PCBs present in the game, except for the display boards and line em up logic board. The 50-pin connectors have two rows of 25 pins. The front-facing side is numbered from 1 to 25.

On the back row, the pins are assigned letters, but with a few missing (G, I, O, Q) and with a few additions (AA, BB, CC).

When looking at the the front of a board connector:

Pin Assignments for the 50-pin connectors


Pin Assignments
Back Row A B C D E F H J K L M N P R S T U V W X Y Z AA BB CC
Front Row 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

The edge connectors on the PCBs also correspond to these pin assignments. There are a few markings to indicate the start and end of the edge connector contact designations.

Front of PCB edge connector showing labels "1" and "25".
Back of PCB edge connector showing labels "A", "Z", and "C" (for "CC").


For boards that use only a single 50-pin connector, pin 25 is always ground and pin 23 is always the supplied voltage for the board.

For the Playfield Logic board, which has two 50-pin connectors, only connector P1B (on the right) uses pin 25 as ground, and pin 23 for the supplied power.

4.2.1.2 12-pin Plug/Receptacle Connectors

There are eighteen 12-pin plug & receptacle connectors throughout the machine. Each plug/receptacle has a number directly below each pin on the inside of the plug/receptacle. Good lighting and a magnifying glass may be needed to see them.

Connector numbering


To separate the connectors, two hands are necessary, since they are always very tightly connected. With one hand, pinch the two contacts tightly. Then, pull on the ridges of the plug. Try to avoid yanking on the actual wires themselves, or they might be pulled from their connectors.

The pins used in these connectors are not the standard Molex 0.084" pin and socket connectors used in most games in later years from other manufacturers. They are AMP Commercial Mate-N-Lok connectors. These connectors are not compatible with Molex connectors, so neither a pin nor socket Molex connector can be substituted. Molex connectors will also not fit properly in the plugs or receptacles.

Various part numbers for pin connectors:

  • 60620-1 (Pin, 14-20 AWG, tin-plated brass)
  • 60620-4 (Pin, 14-20 AWG, tin-plated phosphor bronze)
  • 60618-1 (Pin, 18-22 AWG, tin-plated brass)
  • 60618-4 (Pin, 18-22 AWG, tin-plated phosphor bronze)

Various part numbers for socket connectors:

  • 60619-1 (Socket, 14-20 AWG, tin-plated brass)
  • 60619-4 (Socket, 14-20 AWG, tin-plated phosphor bronze)
  • 60617-1 (Socket, 18-22 AWG, tin-plated brass)
  • 60617-4 (Socket, 18-22 AWG, tin-plated phosphor bronze)

The pins tend to be corroded and cause connectivity issues. If certain features on your game are not functioning properly, the problem is likely caused by a corroded pin and socket. Additionally, a single signal path may travel through upwards of 5 connection points between the source and destination, so any one of those connectors could be causing a problem because of resistance caused by the corrosion, or lack of any contact at all. Also keep in mind that while replacing pins will restore connectivity and resolve certain issues, some new issues might be introduced that were previously masked by being disconnected (such as tilt/slams switches being in the wrong position).

Corrodded pins
Corrodded sockets


It is recommended to replace all the Mate-N-Lok connector pins if there are signs of corrosion. However, the connectors are rather pricey compared to their Molex counterparts, so the cost will add up quickly.

One alternate suggestion is to instead replace everything with standard 12-pin Molex housings and 0.084" connectors. However, the original connector housings are color-coded instead of keyed, so the color coding would be lost and it would be very easy to mix up the plugs and receptacles and connect the wrong ones together. Also, it is currently not confirmed if the standard Molex housings will fit through the mounting brackets.

Since there are different gauge wires in use, and some cases where two wires are crimped into a single connector, a small number of 14-20awg connectors will be needed, but the majority of the will be 18-22awg.

To remove the connector pins, a small pair of needle nose pliers will be needed. To remove the socket connectors, a Waldom W-HT-2038 will be needed.

4.2.1.3 6-pin Plug/Receptacle Connector

There is one 6-pin (3x2) connector for the chime assembly. Everything that applies to the 12-pin Plug/Receptacle Connectors also applies to this connector.

4.2.1.4 Connector Designations

The connectors for the PCBs, display boards, and line em up logic board have no J# connector designations in the schematics. They are simply referred to as the board they are connected to. For instance, the connector for the relay driver board is simply referred to as the "relay driver board connector".

The 12-pin and 6-pin pin & socket connectors have designations from J1 through J20, but J17 is not used. Unfortunately, not all of the connectors are explicitly labeled within the cabinet. However, they are color-coded, so even with out the J# designations, they can still be matched up visually if they are disconnected.

J# Cabinet Connector Designations with approximate relative positions in the cabinet and backbox


4.2.1.5 Relay Sockets

Allied Leisure uses Sigma 67R4-24DC (also noted as 67R4 24VDC) 4PDT (also noted as 4P2T) relays in 14-pin AMP relay sockets. The part number for the socket is 350206-1. The part number for the connectors is 350068-1. Both parts were declared obsolete in 2003 and production of them was ceased.

  • Bank of relays. Cover removed from one relay, and an exposed relay socket next to it.

  • Top view of a relay socket.

  • Relay with the outer cover removed.

  • Relay showing the numbered pinout.

  • Relay socket pins labeled.


The pins in 9-12 are the common poles. The pins in row 1-4 make contact with the pins in row 9-12 when the relay is inactive. When the relay is energized, the pins in row 5-8 make contact with the pins in row 9-12.

  • Connections when a relay is in the inactive state.

  • Connections when a relay is energized.


To remove a socket from a bracket, press the socket towards the side with the lock tang. Then swing the socket out (while still placing pressure on the tang). Then remove the socket from the bracket. To install a socket into a bracket, follow the steps in reverse order.

The pins in these sockets act as pincers and grip each leg of the relay. The part number for the connectors is 350068-1.

To remove a pin from the relay socket, the lock tang on the pin needs to be pressed down. Insert a small tool or jeweler's screwdriver in the opening of the socket to press down the tang, then pull out the pin.

  • Detailed view of a relay socket pin.

  • Insert small tool to press down lock tang on pin.


4.3 Switches

4.3.1 Generation 1

All the game's switches feed into the Playfield Scoring Logic board. At least one LED will light when a switch makes contact. Some switches only trigger one LED, while others can trigger several.

By default, all the LEDs should be off except for the power LED and the outhole LED. If drop targets are in the down position, LEDs will also be lit for those until the game goes through its playfield reset cycle.

4.3.2 Generation 2

All generation 2 solid-state ALI / Fascination games use the exact same MPU board and software; game "rules" are changed simply by rearranging the placement of switches, targets, lamps, pop bumpers, and other elements on the playfield.


# J1 J1 reverse J2 J2 reverse J3 J3 reverse # # J4 J5 J6 # credit disp player disp #
1 unused unused 7k bonus lamp 8k bonus lamp p2 disp LED 2 p2 disp LED 5 A 1 Q66 drop target C coil 100 pt chime 1 data data 1
2 unused unused 4k bonus lamp 6k bonus lamp p2 disp LED 3 p2 disp LED 4 B 2 right gate coil C bumper coil 10 pt chime 2 blank blank 2
3 unused special w/lit switch 1k bonus lamp 2k bonus lamp shoot again lamp unused C 3 Q62 L slingshot coil play counter 3 +6v dc +6v dc 3
4 10 pt rail switch ball in play switch unused 3k bonus lamp unused unused D 4 flipper power relay drop target B coil unused 4 ground ground 4
5 outhole switch R bumper switch 9k bonus lamp 5k bonus lamp unused unused E 5 unused unused unused 5 clock clock 5
6 L bumper switch R collect val switch p1 disp LED 1 score display E unused unused F 6 unused drop target D coil replay counter 6 +5v dc +5v dc 6
7 L collect val switch R slingshot switch score display H p1 disp LED 3 unused unused H 7 40v return R bumper coil unused 7 LED 5 7
8 C bumper switch L slingshot switch L 1k pt lamp unused unused unused J 8 40v return unused unused 8 LED 3 8
9 drop target C switch drop target D switch L 2k pt lamp unused unused unused K 9 40v return drop target A coil unused 9 LED 1 9
10 unused L 3k pt lamp unused unused unused L 10 +5v dc unused Q30 10 LED 4 10
11 roll tilt switch credit button unused L 4k pt lamp unused unused M 11 +5v dc unused unused 11 LED 2 11
12 raise drop A switch raise drop D switch 2X bonus lamp 10k bonus lamp unused unused N 12 +5v dc outhole coil unused 12
13 close gate switch R 1k pt lamp 3X bonus lamp unused unused P 13 5v return R slingshot coil 1000 pt chime 13
14 500 pt rollover switch raise drop B switch R 2k pt lamp R 4k pt lamp unused unused R 14 5v return unused knocker coil 14
15 raise drop C switch E.B. w/lit switch special lamp R 3k pt lamp unused unused S 15 5v return L bumper coil GI relay? 15
16 slam tilt switch 2P jumper unused unused unused unused T 16
17 test button p2 disp LED 1 extra ball lamp unused unused U 17
18 unused unused unused unused V 18
19 2P jumper unused credit/start button unused unused W 19
20 score display 24 coin 3 coin 3 unused unused X 20
21 credit disp clock score display 2 coin 2 coin 2 unused unused Y 21
22 p2 disp clock p1 disp clock coin 1 coin 1 drop target B switch drop target B switch Z 22
23 score display 3 score display 23 +5v dc out +5v dc out +5v dc out +5v dc out a 23
24 p2 disp blank unused slam tilt switch 2 drop target A switch drop target A switch b 24
25 p1 disp blank all disp data cabinet switch ret cabinet switch ret pf switch ret pf switch ret c 25

4.4 Relay/Solenoid Drivers

4.4.1 Generation 1

Generation 1 games operate a bit differently than most contemporary solid state games.

Passive coils (such as the slingshots and pop bumper) fire like they would on any other early solid state game--the switch is closed, and the coil fires. The real difference is with the computer-controlled coils.

First, the wiring for the coils is a bit backwards from contemporary solid state games. On one of the coil lugs, there are wires daisy chained to each coil for a ground connection. Attached to the other lug is a single wire that carries +24 DC voltage. Each wire is on its own circuit. Each circuit is closed when a corresponding relay is energized.

When a relay is energized, it closes the +24VDC circuit to a coil, causing it to fire.

All the relays are driven by the relay driver board. No coils are actually directly controlled by this board--this board is only responsible for energizing relays, which in turn, completes circuits that fire coils (or activate other circuits, such as general illumination).

The relay driver board can receive its instructions from a couple different boards, depending on what what function the coil serves and what state/mode the game is in.


4.4.1.1 Dyno-mite

Even though the relay driver board is fully populated, not all the transistors are actually in use.

Dyno-Mite Relay Drivers
Pin Transistor Relay
B Q22 Replay Relay
C Q23 Ball Reset Relay
D Q24 Gate Relay
E Q19 Game Relay
F Q20 Tilt Relay
H Q21 Playfield Lights Relay
K Q17 Target A Relay
L Q18 Target B Relay
M Q13 10 Point Relay
N Q14 100 Point Relay
P Q15 1000 Point Relay
U Q7 Target D Relay
V Q8 Target C Relay

4.5 Lamp Drivers

4.5.1 Generation 1

All the lamps are on a warming circuit, so that the bulbs are never turned off; they are only very dimly lit until they need to be fully lit. Atari also employed this technique in their pinball machines. The idea behind this was to help extend bulb life, since the most stressful thing that could happen to an incandescent bulb's filament was to turn it off and on again.

Lamps under playfield inserts that are dimly lit by the warming circuit



Dyno-Mite Playfield Feature Lamps
Lamp Lamp Driver Board Connector
Bonus Lamp 1000 2
Bonus Lamp 2000 3
Bonus Lamp 3000 4
Bonus Lamp 4000 10
Bonus Lamp 5000 8
Bonus Lamp 6000 7
Bonus Lamp 7000 16
Bonus Lamp 8000 13
Bonus Lamp 9000 12
Bonus Lamp 10000 18
Double Bonus 5
Bull's Eye Left 1 1
Bull's Eye Left 2 C
Bull's Eye Left 3 6
Bull's Eye Left 4 9
Bull's Eye Right 1 L
Bull's Eye Right 2 11
Bull's Eye Right 3 15
Bull's Eye Right 4 T
Top Rollover Left 19
Top Rollover Middle 23
Top Rollover Right 25
Special Left 17
Special Right 20

Note: "Gate Open" lamp is controlled by the Gate Relay in the lower cabinet. This lamp is not controlled by a lamp driver board.


Dyno-Mite Backbox Feature Lamps
Lamp Lamp Driver Board Connector
Ball 1 2
Ball 2 3
Ball 3 4
Ball 4 5
Ball 5 1
Same Player Shoots Again (1) 13
Same Player Shoots Again (2) 11
Number of Players = 1 C
Number of Players = 2 10
Number of Players = 3 (4-player games only) 8
Number of Players = 4 (4-player games only) 7
Player 1 Up 6
Player 2 Up 9
Player 3 Up (4-player games only) L
Player 4 Up (4-player games only) 16
Line 'Em Up Lamp (1) 18
Line 'Em Up Lamp (2) 12

Note: The "Game Over" lamp is controlled by the Game Relay in the lower cabinet. The "Tilt" lamp is controlled by the Tilt Relay (and in turn, the tilt switches) in the lower cabinet. Neither lamp is controlled by a lamp driver board.

4.5.2 Generation 2

5 Problems & Fixes

5.1 Fuse Holders

The fuse holders in all full-size Allied Leisure pinball machines are known for poor tension and clips breaking easily because of the thin, weak metal that was used. This can lead to intermittent and unreliable operation.

In order to ensure proper and reliable operation, go through and replace all the fuse holders. This is a required modification.

  • A strip of original fuse holders. Notice that at least one of the fuses is basically falling out of its holder.

  • An original fuse holder strip. Notice all the bent and broken clips.

  • Fuse holders replaced with Bussmann BK/S-8001-1-R holders in Dyno-mite.

Make sure to label the wires in some way before desoldering so that they don't get mixed up accidentally. The easiest way to desolder the holders without accidentally melting the insulation on neighboring wires is to start with the bottom most fuses of each strip and work your way up.

Drill a hole on each black dot for each mounting screw. This way, the fuse holder will be level with the labels and it will be easy to tell which label corresponds with which fuse holder. A #6 1/2" screw can be used to mount each new holder.

When soldering the wires to the new fuse holders, start from the bottom most fuse, and work your way up. This should help prevent the soldering iron from accidentally grazing and melting the insulation of neighboring wires, like when desoldering the original strip of fuse holders.

5.2 Dim or Blurry Displays

Inside the backbox of a Dynomite

If a display appears dim or blurry, make sure that it is pushed forward all the way in its tray so it is close to the backglass. The displays can sometimes slide back after the backbox is transported or moved around. When the display is back too far away from the backglass, it may appear dim or blurry.

5.3 Generation 1 Problems & Fixes

5.3.1 Non-Stop Scoring and/or Scoring Starts Immediately

After launching a ball and as soon as the ball hits the switch in the shooter lane (ball-in-play switch), the game immediately starts awarding points.

This is usually a symptom of a stuck switch. The playfield switches and solenoids are only activated after the shooter lane switch (ball-in-play switch) is hit, which is why the scoring only starts then.

Since there is no diagnostic mode or switch test, either look at the playfield scoring logic circuit board in the cabinet and match up the LED(s) that light up to the corresponding switches in the manual, or turn off the game and use a multimeter to touch the soldered contacts of each switch to see if there is continuity between the leafs.

In the case of the banks of stand-up targets, there is a common ground--the backing plate behind the switches. So, touch one multimeter lead to the metal plate behind the targets and the other lead to each solder tab on each switch that has only a single wire soldered to it (the tab with two wires has continuity to the backing plate).

5.3.2 Current Game(s) Ends After Pressing Credit Button

If the credit button is pressed during a single or multiplayer game and there is at least one credit on the game, the current game(s) will end, and a new single player game will reset to ball 1.

If no credits are on the game, pressing the credit button will have no effect.

This feature is similar to the feature found on EM games and again on 1990's games (where a player could hold the start button, and any current games would end). It is a useful free play feature when players walk away from games without finishing.

5.3.3 Relay Locks On

If a relay locks on no matter which socket it is installed in, there could be a few things causing the issue.

The first and most common is that the clear plastic cover may have been installed in the wrong direction. Installing it in the wrong direction may press down on the relay's armature and lock it in the "on" position. The "Sigma" label should be directly above the armature--if it is not, then the plastic cover has been reversed.

If that doesn't resolve the issue, it's possible that that the terminals in the base of the relay are too close together and the switch contacts in the middle are being bridged with electricity. The fix for a locked-on relay is to widen the gap between the terminals. Unhook the spring. Remove the switch contacts in the middle and gently move it up and out of the way. Use needle-nose pliers to bend the terminals slightly away from each other. Reassemble and plug the relay back into a socket for testing.

Note that if one or more relays only locks on in a particular socket, but works in other sockets, then the relay is probably not the issue and the problem is elsewhere--possibly an issue on the relay board or a signal sent from another board that triggers the relay board.

5.3.4 Coil Locks On

Be sure to inspect the relay responsible for triggering the coil. See the Relay Locks On section.

Also make sure that the diode is oriented correctly and that it is still good.

5.3.5 Coil Does Not Fire

If a computer-controlled coil does not fire, there are a series of things to check. If connector pins are corroded, replace those first.

  1. Check the lugs on the coil. Are the wires connected?
  2. Check the resistance of the coil. Is it correct within about 1 ohm?
  3. Examine the schematics. Are the wires attached to the correct lugs?
  4. A relay is responsible for firing each coil. Does the appropriate relay engage at the expected time?
    1. If the relay does engage, remove and replace the coil's diode. Does the old diode pass or fail a diode test? If the diode is good, Is there continuity between the coil and the nearest connector? Is there continuity through the connector? Is there continuity to the relay?
    2. If the relay does not engage, examine the schematic and trace the relay back to the relay drive board. Test the appropriate transistor. Make sure there is continuity between all the components. Put a logic probe on the appropriate test point--does the signal go low when the coil is expected to fire, or does it stay high? If it goes low, the signal to fire the replay is reaching the board, and problem is likely on the relay driver board or continuity between the board and the coil. If the signal stays high, the signal is not reaching the driver board--this could be either a continuity problem with connectors/wiring or a logic problem; test for continuity first.

5.3.6 Feature Lamp Does Not Light

If a feature lamp does not light, it will require a few troubleshooting techniques since the problem could be the socket, wiring, lamp board, or the origin of the signal triggering the lamp to light.

  • Make sure there is connectivity between the lamp's bracket and the bare wire stapled to the playfield (the wire supplies power to the lamp socket). If the lamp is dimly lit by the warming circuit, then it is reviving power.
  • If the bulb is loose, replace the socket. A loose socket is unreliable.
  • Check the signal path. Remove the bulb from the socket, otherwise the bulb acts as a jumper. Connect one end of the multimeter to the wire soldered to the base of the lamp socket, and find the corresponding contact on the lamp driver board for that particular feature lamp. Leave the lamp driver board in its connector during this test--this tests continuity between the lamp socket, the wiring, the connector, and the contact on the board. If there is no continuity, check all the contacts, since they may be mislabeled in the schematics.
  • If the wiring checks out, check for continuity along the signal path for the lamp on the lamp board. Check the resistance value of the resistors that are on the signal path for the lamp.
  • If the paths and resistors check out, insert a bulb into the socket, then jumper the lug of the non-working lamp to the lug of a working lamp. If they both light, then the socket is probably ok.
  • Put a logic probe on the TP on the lamp driver board that corresponds to the lamp in question. If the signal appears at the expected time, then the signal is reaching the board, but is not being processed, so problem is likely on the lamp driver board. Replace the SN175492N chip (that is connected to the lamp's signal path) since it is more likely to fail than the DM7404N chip. If that doesn't work, then try replacing the corresponding DM7404N chip.
  • If the logic probe does not get a signal on the lamp driver board's TP, then backtrace where the lamp signal should originate from. The Schematics and the theory of operation guide will be necessary to determine this.


5.3.7 Strange/Malfunctioning Game Logic Issues

If there are any strange game logic issues or certain game features that fail to work correctly after the game warms up, be sure to check that 5v is actually 5v. If it's too low, game logic will start to malfunction. To test the 5v, put the multimeter leads on the legs of the u47 10v axial capacitor near the edge connector of any board. The 7400-series chips need an absolute minimum of 4.75v on the chip's Vcc leg in order to operate correctly. If the voltage is too low, the 5v regulator may need to be replaced.

If the voltage is very close to 4.75v, leave the multimeter attached, play a game, and see if the voltage dips. If it dips, then the voltage may be going too low for the logic chips, and the 5v regulator may need to be replaced.

If the voltage is 4.9v or above, the regulator should be fine. Be sure to check for wiring and connector pin continuity, then if everything checks out, then investigate the possibility of damaged or failed board components.

5.4 Generation 2 Problems & Fixes

6 Parts Substitutions & Replacements

6.1 Coils

Note: Because there are a lot of nylon/plastic parts, it's important to make sure the coil is not too powerful, or it may damage these (irreplaceable) parts.

  • 264-1-102 (11 ohms). Uses 26awg wire. Substitute: Williams A2-26-1300 (12 ohms) or AE-26-1200 (10.7 ohms, but might be too strong) (needs verification). Marco Specialties has a 264-1-102 aftermarket coil, and it has two wrappers on it--the hidden wrapper has a number of B-27-2300, but it is not actually a B-27-2300 coil.
  • 264-1-46 (9 ohms). Uses 26awg wire. Substitute: Williams A-26-1100 (9.4 ohms) (needs verification)

Note: Williams coils are slightly longer than genuine Allied Leisure coils, however, since the brackets are slotted, coils that are a different length can be accommodated to a certain degree.

6.2 Coil Sleeves

Metal and nylon coil sleeves

All of the coils originally came with metal coil sleeves. They should all be replaced with modern nylon coil sleeves. Don't bother to clean or burnish the old metal ones--just throw them away or recycle them.

The metal sleeves have more drag on the plungers than the newer nylon style sleeves. The new nylon sleeve upgrade will give flippers and other assemblies more power, and cause less wear on the plungers.

Since no suppliers currently keep track of part numbers for Allied Leisure coil sleeves, simply measure the metal sleeves and find the closest match available. PBResource should carry all the sizes needed.

Suggested Coil Sleeve Replacements on Generation 1 Games
Coil Quantity Replacement Sleeve
Flippers 2 2-1/16" sleeve
Drop Targets 4 2-1/2" bell sleeve
Chimes 3 2-1/2" bell sleeve
Knocker 1 2-1/2" bell sleeve
Outhole Kicker 1 1-5/8" sleeve
Slingshot Kickers 2 1-5/8" sleeve
Pop bumper 1 1-5/8" sleeve

6.3 Playfield

6.3.1 Generation 1

6.3.1.1 Lamp Sockets

Many of the lamp sockets are flaky after 40 years and are in need of replacement.

  • 1-1/8" #44/#47 lamp sockets: #E-120-127. Pinball Life Marco Specialties All Electronics
  • 1/2" #44/#47 lamp sockets: #E-120-81. Marco Specialties
  • Coin door lamp sockets: Bally/Williams A-17807 (without the diode) or A-17806; with some modifications. PBResrouce.com, Bay Area Amusements Remove the middle solder tab by bending it back and forth a few times. Carefully bend the remaining two solder tabs so that they are flat with no bend in them. Bend the bracket so that the lamp is perpendicular to the screw hole.
  • Pop bumper lamp socket: Bally E120-25 / Gottlieb A131

  • A-17806 / A-17807 unmodified

  • A-17806 / A-17807 modified

  • A-17806 / A-17807 modified

  • Modified lamp sockets installed

  • Modified lamp sockets installed


6.3.1.2 Rubbers

A couple rubber sizes notated in the parts manual for Generation 1 games are slightly too large. Here is a list of the official and recommended rubber sizes:

Official rubber sizes:

  • (8) 3/8"
  • (5) 1-1/2"
  • (1) 2" (small upper right plastic)
  • (4) 3-1/2" (large upper plastics & slingshots)

Recommended rubber sizes:

  • (8) 3/8"
  • (5) 1-1/2"
  • (1) 2" (small upper right plastic)
  • (2) 3" (large upper plastics)
  • (2) 3-1/2" (slingshots)
Rubber placement


6.3.1.3 Flippers

6.3.1.3.1 Substitute Generation 2 Parts

There are no readily available flipper bats for Generation 1 games. However, Generation 2 parts can be substituted. Since the shaft of a generation 2 flipper is larger than a generation 1 flipper, the flipper bushing will need to be replaced.

  1. Disassemble the flipper assembly and remove it from the playfield
  2. Drill out the two rivets holding the flipper bushing to the plate.
  3. There are two possible options for securing the new flipper bushing.
    1. Rivet the new bushing to the plate. Use a transfer punch tool on the rivet, then finish by squeezing the rivet with channel locks. There is very litter clearance between the rivet and the barrel of the bushing, so a rivet die might not fit. Pinrestore's die was reportedly a small enough diameter to be a possibility, but this was untested. There is a gap of 5/32" between the bushing's barrel and the center of the rivet, so the outside diameter of the die would have to be 5/16" (0.3125") or less in order to be centered on the rivet.
    2. Mount the plate onto the playfield, screw down the new bushing using the existing screw holes, drill new pilot holes for the other two holes, and use two more screws to secure the bushing.
  4. Reassemble the flipper assembly
  5. The large phillps screw from the generation 1 flipper shaft will not fit on the generation 2 flipper shaft. Use the #6 screw and #6 washer to secure the cam onto the flipper shaft.
  6. If replacing the EOS switch, disassemble the stack and put each support blade below each leaf blade. Adjust so there is a 1/8" gap between the contacts when the flipper cam opens the switch. Also, the longer leaf may need to be trimmed 1/16" or 1/8" to avoid brushing against the cam.

  • Original flipper assembly

  • Replacement bushing riveted (top)

  • Replacement bushing riveted (bottom)

  • Flipper assembly assembled with new parts

  • Flipper assembly with plunger pulled in

  • Flipper assembly with retaining screw installed


6.3.1.3.2 Replace the Flipper Assembly

One possible solution for unavailable parts is to replace the flipper assemblies with ones from another early solid state system, such as Gottlieb System 1 or 80. The flipper bats won't match the Allied Leisure flipper bats, however, most of the parts are readily available and it will get the game flipping if there are no other options.

Just going by the resistance ratings for coils, a Gottlieb A-27643 or A-30468 flipper coil might be a starting point, but this will need further research and testing. It is important to not use a strong coil, otherwise the risk of breaking the drop targets and plastics will be high.

Using classic Bally flipper assemblies might be another option (if they can be obtained) since the flipper bats more closely resemble the Allied Leisure flipper bats.

6.4 Backbox

6.5 Cabinet

6.5.1 Relays

6.5.2 Chimes

6.5.3 Playfield Rails

The playfield rails inside the cabinet appear to be nearly identical to the playfield rails found in Gottlieb System 1 games. However, the Allied Leisure rails are painted what what looks like a heat-resistant flat black, rather than left bare.

6.5.4 Legs

Bolt hole placement comparison between Allied Leisure and Williams legs

Generation 1 Allied Leisure legs are 29.5", painted gray, and have a 5-1/4" rib (instead of a rib going down the whole length of the leg). The leg is pinched slightly around the length of the rib. The placement of the holes for the bolts are non-standard and will not match the spacing on legs from other manufacturers (the bolt holes are spaced further apart on Allied Leisure legs). The original part number was 264-3-42.

If replacement legs are needed, new holes will need to be drilled in the cabinet with new leg bolt plates, or holes will need to be hogged out in the newer legs. Approximate visual style matches:


6.5.5 Power Supply Capacitors

  • 8000uF 15vdc axial electrolytic: Vishay / Sprague 39D808G015JT4 (Mouser)
  • 9000uF 40v electrolytic radial can screw terminals: CDE 338-1238-ND (Digi-key)

6.5.6 5v Regulator

If the 5v regulator is not outputting the correct voltage, it may need to be replaced. Unfortunately, the 5v 5A 78H05 regulator is obsolete, no longer produced, and unobtainable. However, there are two possible replacement solutions. Replacing the regulator with a switched power supply, or replacing it with an adjustable 5v 5A LM338K regulator.

6.5.6.1 5v Regulator Replacement Method With LM338K Regulator

To replace the 78H05 regulator with a LM338K regulator, a few additional components will be necessary. This is because the 78H05 is a fixed-output regulator, while the LM388K is an adjustable output regulator (controlled using a potentiometer).

Parts list:

  • LM338K 5v 5A Regulator
  • 4 or 5-position terminal strip (For example: Radioshack #2740688)
  • 120 ohm 1/2W resistor
  • 500 ohm 1/2W potentiometer (can be substituted with 1k ohm pot, but adjustments will be more sensitive)
  • 1N4004 diode
  • TO-3 Transistor Spacer (Part# 18PTI1HDWOB or 5999-01-355-0325)
  • TO-3 Mica insulator (Keystone Part# 4651)
  • Two #6-32 machine screw nuts
  • #6 Washer
  • #6 18-22awg terminal ring connector
Radioshack #2740688 5-position terminal strip


Wire color legend:

  • Red: Ground
  • White with blue stripe: vOUT (+5vdc)
  • White with brown stripe: vIN (+11vdc)

Note that the two regulators have different pin-outs, so this will not be a direct swap.

Regulator Pin-out Comparison


Adjustable Regulator Schematic:

Schematic for 5v regulator replacement


Note that a diode has been added for protection against the large 8000uF capacitor from backfeeding voltage into the regulator output during a fault.

Instructions:

  1. Desolder or clip the wires on the existing 3-position terminal strip and save the screws for later. This strip is easy to identify since thee wires lead back to the regulator at the rear of the cabinet.
  2. The regulator is mounted at the rear of the cabinet on a very large heat sink. The playfield may need to be removed from the cabinet in order to reach it. Unscrew the two screws that secure it to the rear of the cabinet
  3. Desolder or clip the wires attached to the regulator's terminals.
  4. Unscrew and discard the TO-3 transistor socket--these tend to break and be unreliable.
  5. Slip the mica insulator onto the LM338K regulator.
  6. Place the regulator onto the heatsink so that the pins are on the inside of the heatsink.
  7. Place the white transistor spacer on the transistor's pins.
  8. Slip one machine screw through one the case holes in the regulator and screw on the nut. The nuts should be on the same side as the regulator's pins.
  9. Solder the Red wire to the Adjustment pin and the White/Brown wire to the vIN pin on the regulator.
    1. Optional step: To help protect the transistor spacer from melting during soldering, use a small pieces of thin metal and put them on each pin on the regulator. Use a small portion of a ring solder tab or take a junk leaf switch, drill a small 1/8" hole, and cut out a circle about 0.5cm. Slip this metal piece over each pin on the regulator.
  10. Crimp the terminal ring connector on to the white/blue wire.
  11. Slip the other machine screw through the regulator's case hole. Slip the #6 washer on the screw, then the terminal ring connector, then screw on the #6 nut.
  12. zip tie the three wires together as appropriate so they don't get tangled up with other components in the cabinet.
  13. Mount the heat sink back onto the rear of the cabinet.
  14. Wrap the leads of the diode and resistor around the appropriate tabs of the terminal strip, then solder them. Make sure to leave the holes clear for the wires.
  15. Solder the wires from the regulator into the appropriate holes in the terminal strip. Be sure to use the lower holes (so it's easier to solder the cabinet wires later)
  16. Do a test fit for the terminal strip and make sure the wires in the cabinet will reach the appropriate tabs. It may need to re-position closer to the bundle of wires. Screw the terminal strip down to the cabinet when ready.
  17. Solder the appropriate wires in the cabinet to the appropriate tabs on the terminal strip.
  18. If using a cermet potentiometer, since the leads are short, This is the last component to solder. The middle leg goes to ground (red wire) and either one of the outer legs can go to vOUT (white/blue wire). The unused lead on the potentiometer can be clipped off.
  19. Disconnect all the circuit boards in the body cabinet and disconnect all the backbox connectors before powering up the game in order to protect the circuit boards and displays in case the voltage is too high or this modification ends up being incorrect in some way.
  20. Power on the game and use a multimeter to test the 5v output. Use the potentiometer to make adjustments.
  21. Turn off the game, let it discharge for a few moments, then reconnect all the connectors.
  22. Attach the multimeter leads to one of the 47uF 10v capacitors on any circuit board, power on the game, and test the 5v at the board--adjusting as necessary.

  • The 5v regulator on the heat sink at the rear of the cabinet.

  • Wiring on the LM338K Regulator

  • Assembled 5v terminal strip

  • Assembled 5v terminal strip

  • Assembled 5v terminal strip

  • Assembled 5v terminal strip

  • Assembled 5v terminal strip


7 Recommended Modifications

7.1 Generation 1

7.1.1 Fuse Values

  • Replace the 8A Slo-Blow fuse for 24VDC with a 2.5A Slo-Blow fuse. With an 8A fuse, if a coil locks on, the fuse will never blow and instead burn up the coil. During a normal game, the current draw rarely spikes to 2A, but does occasionally hit 2.15A during a particularly lively game, so a more common 2A fuse will blow occasionally during normal play.

Additionally, it might be a good idea to put an individual fuse on the playfield for the kick-out hole, if there are issues with that coil locking on.

7.1.2 Free Play

In the schematics, there is a free play switch notated, but this is absent from coin-operated games.

Essentially, enabling free play involves stacking a second switch on top of the credit switch.

  • Free play switch

  • Wire in J5-7

  • Credit switch stack with free play microswitch

  • Ali-gen1-freeplay-4.jpg
  • Ali-gen1-freeplay-5.jpg


7.1.2.1 Materials

  • 3" and 16" pieces of 18AWG wire.
  • Two quick disconnect connectors
  • Microswitch with 4" actuator wire (Marco Specialties)
  • Microswitch Mounting Bracket/Holder (Gottlieb 26481)

7.1.2.2 Instructions

  1. Unscrew credit switch from bracket. Remove curved metal cover plate (discard it or put it in a parts drawer).
  2. Desolder wire from top most leaf blade lug
  3. Strip ends of 3" wire. Take one end of the 3" wire and the wire that was just desoldered, and solder both onto the lug on the top most leaf blade.
  4. Remove the top most switch spacer
  5. Enlarge the mounting holes in the nylon microswitch mounting bracket with a 3/16" drill bit. Note that it will bind up if you go too deep to fast. Or, file down the insulator tubes. Note that the first method of enlarging the holes is preferred since it allows the free play switch mod to be easily reversible in the future.
  6. Push the holder onto the switch stack. Screw down the switch stack to the bracket.
  7. Slip the microswitch on the posts on the holder.
  8. Bend the actuator wire so that the middle leaf blade activates the microswitch. However, make sure that the two top most leaf blades make contact before the microswitch is activated, or players will not actually press the credit button in far enough to both add a credit and start a game.
  9. Trim the excess wire off the actuator wire.
  10. Crimp a quick disconnect connector on the 3" piece of wire. Connect this to the middle lug on the microswitch.
  11. For the 16" piece of wire, slip it into one of the black wire straps above the ball tilt assembly.
  12. Strip both ends of the wire. On the end closest to the front of the cabinet, crimp a quick disconnect connector. Connect it to the lug spaced furthest from the other two lugs (if you are looking down into the cabinet, it would be the right-most lug)
  13. On the other end of the 16" wire, crimp a 60617-1 scoket connector. Insert it into the J5 connector in the position for pin 7.
  14. Done! Be sure to test the position of the actuator wire.

7.1.2.3 Issues

Note that if there is more than 1 credit, pressing and holding the credit button for too long will start a game with more than one player.

7.1.3 Player-Up Logic Board

In order to assist with game diagnostics concerning the ball-in-play count or the players, certain jumpers can be replaced with LEDs in order to more easily determine what the logic board is doing. The LED numbering starts at zero, so any time a value is actually zero, that LED will light, just like when a value is actually. 1, 2, 3, etc. If an LED does light up for any value, then further troubleshooting may be needed.

  • Player-Up section
    • 2-player game: LD20, LD21, LD22
    • 4-player game: LD20, LD21, LD22, LD23, LD24
    • Legend (player #): LD20=0, LD21=1, LD22=2, LD23=3, LD24=4
  • Number of Players section
    • 2-player game: LD27, LD28, LD29
    • 4-player game: LD27, LD28, LD29, LD30, LD31
    • Legend (# of players): LD27=0, LD28=1, LD29=2, LD30=3, LD31=4
  • Ball-in-Play section
    • LD34, LD35, LD36, LD37, LD38, LD39
    • Legend (ball #): LD34=0, LD35=1, LD36=2, LD37=3, LD38=4, LD39=5

Contrary to the way these sections are boxed in with the PCB mask/labels, this is how they should actually be sectioned off instead:

Player and Ball count indicator sections
Jumpers to replace with LEDs
The LEDs installed in place of jumpers on a 2-player game



8 Game Specific Problems & Repairs

9 Repair Logs

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