Post-Purchase Checklist

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Revision as of 13:03, 10 September 2015 by ForceFlow (talk | contribs) (Initial framework & outline)
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1 Introduction

After purchasing a pinball machine--especially one that is in unknown condition or has not been serviced in a long time--there can be any number of problems with the game and any one of its systems. This checklist will help identify common problems and help prevent them from becoming bigger problems. There are several things to check before even turning on the game and hoping nothing blows up.

For new-in-box games that are a new purchase from a distributor, you can usually bypass the steps in the checklist for disconnecting the playfield and circuit boards.

For vintage new-in-box games, be sure to follow the entire checklist and treat the game as one found in an unknown state.

2 Checklist

2.1 Loose Parts

Open the game up and collect any loose parts, screws, washers, labels, bulbs, etc. Then, make sure to vacuum the game. This will help prevent stray parts from causing an electrical short in the game.

2.2 Photos & Records

Take photos of the game and serial number for your records. This may help as a reference if you unplug something and aren't sure where it goes. Photos may also help with insurance claims on the off-chance that the game is stolen or destroyed by flood, fire, or other means.

Additionally, to help keep track of the games that still exist and have survived, be sure to add the serial number to the Internet Pinball Serial Number Database.

2.3 Documentation

Before proceeding further, make sure that you have a copy of the game's manual and schematics. Most manuals have digital copies available on the Internet Pinball Database and Planetary Pinball's Reference section, with the exception of games manufactured by Gottlieb. Since these are digital scans of original manuals, the quality can vary wildly--some might have unreadable or missing pages. Gottlieb does not allow digital distribution of manuals, and physical copies must instead be purchased. The Pinball Resource is the primary source for manuals, but other distributors also carry them. Used copies can also be found at shows or on eBay.

2.4 Power Cord / Line Cord

Inspect the power cord.

Replace the power cord if any of these conditions are met:

  • It only has two prongs (rather than three). This means that the game would not be grounded, and could cause several problems in the came and also possibly shock a player.
  • It is frayed. This is a fire hazard
  • The outer insulation is cracked or falling off. This is a fire hazard.
  • A big yellow plug has been added on on the end. You don't know if it was done correctly. This is also against fire code in commercial locations.
  • It is very short and doesn't even reach the floor. This can lead to needing to add an extension cord, which can be a fire hazard in a home, and is against fire code in many commercial locations.

Use a replacement cord that is a minimum of 14ft. Since the cord often snakes somewhere inside the game, and also has to reach the floor, that can sometimes easily adds up to 4 feet or more. Here are some tips on power cords and here is a good guide on replacing a power cord in a game.

2.5 Line Filter

Be sure to inspect the line filter. The power cord connects to this component.

In some games, it is bare and clearly visible, and in others, it may be hidden and enclosed in a metal box, which is usually open on the bottom.

Some games have a small disc-shaped component attached to the line filter called a MOV, which helps guard against electrical surges. If it is absent, check the game's schematics to make sure that it has not been removed at some point. Replace the MOV if it appears in the schematics, or if it appears damaged or burnt.


2.6 Wiring

Inspect all the wiring in the game.

  • Make sure there are no loose/floating wires.
  • Check for wires with damaged insulation and exposed bare wire.
  • Check to make sure wires are not being pinched by the playfield, coin door, backbox, or any other mechanisms. Sometimes, the insulation gets damaged by stress and could cause a short with neighboring wires.
  • Check for burnt wires. They will need to be replaced, and the problem that caused the burnt wires will need to be addressed as well.

2.7 Fuses

  • Inspect all the fuses in the game and make sure they are correct type (fast blow vs slow blow) and are the correct rating. Sometimes, the wrong fuses are added as a band-aid for a fuse that keeps blowing because of a problem somewhere, or the wrong fuse is added because it was the only one on-hand.
  • Make sure to test each fuse with a multimeter continuity test. If it fails, the fuse will need to be replaced.
  • Check the fuse holders to make sure that the tabs holding the fuse are not broken.
  • Check to make sure that the wires connected to the fuse holders are actually connected and not loose.

2.8 Electrical System

Disconnect everything from the electrical system in the game--the playfield, backbox, lighting, circuit boards, knocker, coin door, etc.

If everything on the checklist up to this point has been cleared or addressed, you should now be ready to test the game's electrical system.

Plug the game in and flip the power switch. If you see a bright flash, sparks, or anything burning, turn the game off immediately and unplug it. You will need to troubleshoot these issues before turning it on again.

2.9 Fuse modifications

Certain game systems have suggested modifications when it comes to fuses. Sometimes a recommendation calls for a different fuse type or value than what is indicated in a game, either because of a later service bulletin, or because of other findings. Also, sometimes it is recommended to install additional fuses to help protect known problem areas in games.

Now that you have tested and verified the operational status of the electrical system, be sure to review those and implement those recommendations before proceeding further. Then, test the electrical system again to make sure that you didn't introduce any new problems after completing the modifications.

2.10 Circuit Boards

2.10.1 Physical Damage

2.10.2 ICs/Chips

2.10.3 Batteries

2.10.4 Cleaning

2.10.5 Testing

2.10.6 Power Supplies

2.10.7 MPU

2.10.8 Displays/DMD

2.10.9 Driver/Lamp Board

2.10.10 Sound Board

2.11 Playfield

2.11.1 Physical Inspection

2.11.1.1 Coils

2.11.1.2 Loose Nuts/Screws

2.11.1.3 Flippers

Check that the coils are the correct ones and the EOS switches. Typically for a game that has not been serviced in a long time, you will need to get a rebuild kit for the flipper assemblies to replace the parts that are commonly worn out.

2.11.2 General Illumination

Disconnect the circuit boards again.

Connect the plugs for general illumination and turn on the game. If there are obvious electrical problems, such as sparks or a blown fuse, turn the game off and troubleshoot.

If things seem normal, use a multimeter one the playfield connectors that are currently disconnected and check for stray AC voltage (VAC) from the general illumination. If there is voltage where there isn't supposed to be, that will indicate a short, and it will need to be found and addressed before proceeding further.

2.11.3 Switches

2.11.4 Feature Lamps

2.11.5 Solenoids

2.12 Wrap-up

At this point in the checklist, you have most likely been able to safely inspect and turn on the game. The next step would be to make note of what is or isn't working with the electronics and mechanics, and proceed to address those problems. Once those problems are addressed and the game is in working order, it should then be worthwhile to address cosmetic issues, rubber replacement, and cleaning/waxing of the playfield.

(this page is a work in progress - 9/10/15)